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BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 
THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


mmm&x 


THE 


LOYAL  WEST 


IN  THE 


0f  tfe 


BEFORE  AND  SINCE: 

BEING  AN 

ENCYCLOPEDIA  AND  PANORAMA 

OF  THE 

WESTERN  STATES,  PACIFIC  STATES    AND  TERRITORIES 

OF 

THE   UlsriON. 

HISTORICAL,  GEOGRAPHICAL,  AND  PICTORIAL. 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  MORE  THAN  TWO  HUNDRED  ENGRAVINGS, 

PRESENTING   VIEWS   OF   ALL    THE   CITIES   AND   PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  —  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS 

AND     MONUMENTS  —  BATTLE-FIELDS  —  HISTORIC     LOCALITIES  —  NATURAL 

CURIOSITIES,    AND    SCENES    ILLUSTRATING    THE    TIMES    OF    THE 

REBELLION,  ETC.,  PRINCIPALLY  FROM  DRAWINGS  TAKEN 

ON   THE   SPOT   BY   THE   AUTHORS. 


BY 


AUTHOR  Or  HISTORICAL  COLLECTIONS  OF  CONNECTICUT,  MASSACHUSETTS,  ETC., 
—  AND  — 

HEIVRY    HOTTE, 

AUTHOR  Or  HIST.  COLL.  OF  VIRGINIA,  OHIO,  THE  GREAT  WEST,  BTO. 


CINCINNATI: 
PUBLISHED    BY   F.  A.  HOWE,   111   MAIN  STREET, 

SUCCESSOR    OF    HENRY    HOWE. 
1865. 


p 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1865 

BY     F.    A.     HOWE, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  Ohio. 


INTRODUCTORY 


TOURING  the  sad,  tragic  years  of  the  Rebellion,  a  large  two-vol- 
^  ume  work,  by  the  authors  of  this,  was  published  under  the  title 
of  "  Our  Whole  Country."  It  was  modeled  on  the  same  gen 
eral  plan  with  the  Historical  Collections  of  Massachusetts  and  of 
Connecticut,  by  John  W.  Barber;  and  the  Historical  Collections 
of  Virginia  and  of  Ohio,  by  Henry  Howe.  That  work  was  is 
sued  at  great  expense,  consequent  upon  years  of  labor,  exten 
sive  travel,  and  the  drawing  and  engraving  of  many  hundred 
original  views  of  objects  of  interest  in  all  parts  of  our  country. 

Coming  out  at  a  most  gloomy  period,  its  title  alone  had  the 
effect  to  draw  unkind  comments  from  the  unpatriotic;  for,  in 
their  opinions,  as  in  their  hopes,  the  little  child,  who  in  those 
days,  in  its  innocence,  misspelled  the  title  of  the  Nation's  Map, 
terming  it  the  "Un-tied  States,"  committed  no  error  in  the  fact. 
The  knot,  as  resulted,  instead  of  being  cut,  was  tautened  by  the 
sword;  and  the  just  principle,  the  greatest  good  to  all,  estab 
lished  on  a  lasting  foundation. 

Yet,  at  what  a  terrible  cost  of  agony  and  of  suffering!  The 
very  flower  of  the  land,  North  and  South,  slain!— and  in  such 
multitudes,  that  a  double  row  of  coffins,  extending  in  unbroken 
lines  from  Richmond  to  Washington,  would  be  sufficient  to  con 
tain  only  the  lesser  number  of  the  dead.  Such  the  result,  so 
little  anticipated,  that  the  mistaken  leaders  boasted  to  their  de 
luded  people,  that  they  would  agree  to  hold  and  to  quaff  all  the 
blood  that  would  be  shed,  from  the  hollow  of  their  joined  hands. 


\  S  i  V 

4  INTRODUCTORY. 

The  changed  condition  of  a  part  of  our  country,  united  to 
the  increased  expense  of  book  publishing,  has  prevented  the 
issue  of  successive  editions  of  the  larger  and  more  expensive 
work;  but,  instead,  there  will  be  given  much  of  the  original 
material  of  that  in  separate  books,  embodying  in  them  more 
or  less  of  the  grand  historical  events  of  the  past  few  years,  in 
which  history  has  been'  piled  upon  history  to  monumental  hights, 
and  by  which  this  whole  people  have  been  lifted  into  clearer 
skies,  and  to  happier  visions. 

A  companion  book  to  "The  Loyal  West"  will  soon  be  found 
in  "The  Loyal  East;"  while  "Our  Whole  Country,"  in  its 
completeness,  is  suggested  by  their  union  with  a  third  upon  that 
unhappy  section,  the  valor  and  endurance  of  which,  though  in 
error,  have  been  extraordinary. 

Words  are  the  physiognomy  of  ideas;  more  than  this,  they 
have  voices,  and  are  ill-looking,  or  good-looking,  sound  harshly, 
or  sound  sweetly,  according  "to  the  spirit  of  which  they  are 
of."  Words,  too,  grow  into  our  affections,  as  the  ideas  they  ex 
press  become  endeared  to  us.  Not  one  in  the  English  language 
ever  so  suddenly  grew  beautiful,  in  form  and  in  sound,  as  the 
word  Loyal  to  us  Americans.  Originally  used  to  signify  fealty 
to  government,  when  government  was  intrusted  to  one  man,  a 
single  sovereign,  it  now  means  faithfulness  to  government,  when 
'an  entire  people  are  sovereigns,  and  is  as  much  stronger  in  its 
meaning,  more  majestic  in  its  impression,  as  the  millions  are 
more  powerful  and  more  majestic  than  the  one.  At  any  rate, 
the  "plain  people"  so  believe— the  "plain  people,"  whose  coun 
tenances  are  daily  brightening  with  increasing  intelligence,  and 
growing  more  and  more  joyous  with  expanding  hopes. 

An  old  man  with  whom  the  "red"  fires  of  patriotism  so  burned 
under  the  "white"  locks  of  age  as  to  compel  him  to  become  one 
of  the  boys  in  "blue"— a  member  of  the  famous  Iowa  Gray-beard 
Kegiment— on  hearing  the  proposed  title  of  this  work,  exclaimed, 
with  fervor,  "Yes!  the  West  IS  Loyal!"  This  was  definite;  but 
the  word  West  is  not.  We  here  apply  the  title  to  those  States 
of  our  Country's  West  which  in  the  Kebellion  were  faithful  to 


INTRODUCTORY.  5 

the  Union.    Can  you  think  of  any  other  word  that  so  completely 
expresses  the  geography  embodied? 

"The  LOYAL  West  to  FREEDOM  true!" 

Many  years  must  elapse  before  another  book  will  be  issued 
upon  the  West,  involving  so  much  of  labor  and  expense  as  this. 
More  of  both  were  given  before  the  first  sheet  was  printed 
than  to  most  volumes  of  the  same  size  and  price  completed  for 
the  market.  We  design  this  as  a  standard  work  upon  the  West, 
and  in  successive  editions,  to  enhance  its  value  by  such  modifi 
cations  and  additions  as  may  seem  desirable.  We  trust  it  will 
become  a  Household  book  for  the  Western  people;  and  not 
only  this,  but  to  add  to  the  evidence,  if  it  were  necessary,  what 
a  mighty  empire,  under  the  influence  of  our  good  government, 
has  grown  up  here  on  the  sunset  side  of  the  Alleghanies,  since 
many  among  us  first  looked  upon  the  beautiful  things  of  life 
in  the  simple,  trusting  faith  of  childhood. 

H.    H. 

CINCINNATI,  111  Main  Street. 


ILLUSTRATIONS, 


TINTED    ENGRAVINGS. 

VIGNETTE. 

FRONTISPIECE  :  Massacre  at  Lawrence. 
Map,  showing  the  West  in  Jefferson's  Administration. 
Map,  showing  the  West  in  Johnson's  Administration. 
Averill's  Raid,  -  -  Page    46 

The  People  of  Louisville,  principally  Women  and  Children,  driven  out 
of  the  City  by  the  order  of  General  Nelson,  encamping  on  the 
banks  of  the  Ohio,  -  -  -  100 

The  Squirrel  Hunters  crossing  the  Pontoons  at  Cincinnati,  -  -  202 
Volunteers  of  Indiana  Swearing  to  Remember  Buena  Vista,  -  -  270 
Funeral  of  Abraham  Lincoln  at  Springfield,  -  336 

Capture  of  Jefferson  Davis  by  Michigan  Cavalry,  ...  -  406 
Porter's  Gunboats  passing  the  Red  River  Dam,  -  -  464 

Identification  of  Sioux  Murderers  by   a  boy,   Survivor  of  the  Mas 
sacre,  -  _-.----    492 
Volunteers  of  Iowa  raising  the  American  Flag  over  the  new  Capitol 

at  Columbia,  South  Carolina,                           -  538 

Union  Family  of  Missouri  Fleeing  from  Guerillas,             -  590 

Virginia  City,  Nevada 678 


ENGRAVINGS. 

WEST  VIRGINIA.  Louisville,      -  -        -    69 

Medical  and  Law  Colleges,  •         70 

Arms  of  West  Virginia,  -         -     33     Green  River  Bridge, 
Wheeling,  -  40     yiew  in  the  Mammoth  Cave,          72 

Tray  Run  Viaduct,  -  -     43     United  States  Barracks  and  Sus 

pension  Bridge.  Newport,      -     74 

KENTUCKY.  PuPblic  Squarej  Lxington,    -         80 

Arms  of  Kentucky,     -         -          61     Ashland,  Seat  of  Henry  Clay,  -     81 
Frankfort,        -  -     64     Monument  of  Henry  Clay,  - 

State  House,  Frankfort,  65     Old  Fort  at  Boonesboro',  - 

Military  Monument,          -         -     65     Landing  at  Paducah,  »° 

Grave  of  Daniel  Boone,        -          67     A  Tobacco  Plantation,     -         -     »< 

(vii) 


Vlll 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


A  Religious  Encampment,  -  93 
Signature  of  Daniel  Boone,  -  94 
Signature  of  Geo.  Rogers  Clark,  95 
Signature  of  Isaac  Shelby,  -  98 
Signature  of  Henry  Clay,  -  98 
Fort  Donelson,  -  112 

Public  Square,  Bowling  Green,  118 


OHIO. 


133 
138 
139 
141 
143 
146 
148 
149 


Arms  of  Ohio,    - 
Ancient  Mound,  Marietta, 
Campus  Martius,  Marietta, 
A  Pioneer  Dwelling, 
Gallipolis,  in  1791,      - 
Outline  View  of  Cincinnati, 
First  Church  in  Cincinnati, 
Cincinnati  in  1802, 
View  in  Fourth  Street,Cincinnati,  151 
Pike's  Opera  House,  -  153 

Longworth's  Vineyard,  -  155 
President  Harrison's  House, 

North  Bend,  -  157 

Old   Block  House,  near  North 

Bend,      -  -        158 

Monument  of  J.  C.  Symmes,  -  158 
Court  House,  Chillicothe,  -  159 
Old  State  Capitol,  -  -  160 

Portsmouth,  -        161 

State  Capitol,  Columbus,  -  -  164 
Ohio  White  Sulphur  Springs,  165 
Court  House,  Zanesville,  -  -  167 
Market  Street,  Steubenville,  173 
Superior  Street,  Cleveland,  -  175 
Ancient  Map  of  the  Vicinity  of 

Cleveland,        -         -         -        176 
Toledo,  -  -  ,      -  178 

Wayne's  Battle-ground,  -  181 
Public  Square,  Sandusky,  -  186 
Ancient  Map,  Sandusky,  -  186 
Fort  Sandusky,  -  -  187 

Wyandot  Mission  Church,  -  189 
View  in  Dayton,  -  -  190 

Old  Log  Court  House  in  Greene 

County,  -         -        191 

Plan  of  St.  Clair's  Battle-field,  193 
Birth-place  of  Tecumseh,  -  196 
Signature  of  President  Harrison,  197 
Swiss  Emigrant's  Cottage,  -  197 
Grave  of  Simon  Kenton,  -  -  199 
Brady's  Pond,  -  -  200 

Statue  of  Com.  Perry,  Cleveland,  201 


INDIANA. 

Arms  of  Indiana,  -  231 
The  Harrison  House,  Vincennes,  235 
State  Capitol,  Indianapolis,  -  240 
Union  Depot,  -  -  -  241 
View  in  Terre  Haute,  -  -  244 
Friends'  Boarding  School,  Rich 
mond,  -  -  -  245 
Evansville,  -  -  -  247 
Rapp's  Church,  New  Harmony,  248 
Calhoun  Street,  Fort  Wayne,  251 
Old  Fort  Wayne,  -  -  253 
Lafayette,  -  - .  256 
Tippecanoe  Battle-ground,  -  257 
Map  of  Tippecanoe  Battle 
ground,  -  -  261 
Madison,  -  -  262 
New  Albany,  -  -  ,  -  264 
Military  Monument,  -  -  265 
University  of  Indiana,  -  267 
Old  State  Capitol,  Corydon,  -  267 
The  Jug  Rock,  -  -  268 
The  Mill  Stream  Cave,  -  -  268 


ILLINOIS. 

Arms  of  Illinois,  -  -  281 
Chicago,  in  1831,  -  -  286 
Court  House  Square,  Chicago,  288 
Block  Raising,  Chicago,  -  290 
Grain  Houses  and  Railway  De 
pot,  Chicago,  -  -  291 
State  House  Square,  Springfield,  297 
President  Lincoln's  Residence, 

Springfield,  -  299 
Illinois  College,  Jacksonville,  304 
Bloomington,  -  -  307 
Peoria,  -  308 
Quincy,  -  -  312 
Alton,  -  314 
Map  of  Levee  at  Cairo,  -  318 
Junction  of  the  Ohio  and  Mis 
sissippi,  Cairo,  -  -  318 
Galena,  -  -  -  319 
The  Lead  Region,  -  -  321 
Rock  Island  City,  -  322 
Fort  Armstrong.  Rock  Island,  323 
Nauvoo,  -  325 
Mt.  Joliet,  -  329 
Cave-in-the-Rock,  -  -  -  335 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


MICHIGAN. 


Arms  of  Michigan,  -  '  -  353 
Detroit,  -  -  359 

Woodward  Avenue,  Detroit,  361 
State  House,  Lansing,  -  -  367 
State  Penitentiary,  Jackson,  369 
State  University,  Ann  Arbor,  -  370 
Winchester's  Head-quarters, 

Monroe,  -  371 

Site  of  Stockade  on  the  Raisin,  374 
State  Asylum  for  Deaf  and  Blind, 

Flint,  -  379 

Monroe  Street,  Grand  Rapids,  381 
Lumberman's  Camp,  -  -  382 
Mackinaw  Island.  -  -  -  386 
The  Arched  Rock,  -  387 

Ruins  of  Old  Fort  Mackinaw,  -  388 
Map  of  Mackinaw  and  Vicinity,  391 
Falls  of  St.  Mary,  -  -  393 

Map  of  Copper  and  Iron  Region,  396 
The  Minnesota  Mine,  -  -  398 

WISCONSIN. 

Arms  of  Wisconsin,  -  421 

Harbor  of  Milwaukie,  .  -  427 
The  Portage,  -  -  -  437 

Voyageurs'  Camp,  -.  -  438 
Madison,  ....  439 
Map  of  the  Four  Lakes.  -  443 
Fort  Crawford,  Prairie  du  Chien,  445 
Racine,  -  -  450 

The  Maiden's  Rock,  -  -  454 
Fort  Winnebago,  in  1831,  -  457 

MINNESOTA. 

Arms  of  Minnesota,  -  -  475 
St.  Paul,  --..  480 
Fort  Snelling,  -  -  -  482 
Minne-ha-ha  Falls,  -  -  483 
Lake  Itasca,  -  -  -  -  487 
Dakotah  Dog  Dance  (music),  489 
Ojibway. Scalp  Dance  (music)  489 

IOWA. 

Arms  of  Iowa,         -         -  -  501 

Dubuque,    ....  506 

Ruins  of  Camanche,  -  513 

Davenport,           -         -         .  517 

Attack  on  Bellevue  Hotel,  -  521 

Burlington,          -         -         .  525 


IX 

Judge  Rorer's  House,      -  -  526 

Keokuk,     .         .         -        -  527 

Prairie  Scenery,       -         -  .  529 

State  Capitol,  Des  Moines,  -  532 
Muscatine,  -  ...  533 

State  University,  Iowa  City,  535 

MISSOURI. 

Arms  of  Missouri,   -         -  .555 

Levee  at  St.  Louis,       -         -  559 

Court  House,  St.  Louis,   -  -  561 

Biddle  Monument,       -         -  567 

Jefferson  City,                    .  .  568 

Lexington  Landing,     -         -  573 

Kansas  City,             -         .  .  574 

A  Santa  Fe  Train,         -         -  576 

St.  Joseph,               .         -  .578 

Hannibal,          '  '«•         -         .  579 

Pilot  Knob,                       -  -  588 

KANSAS. 

Arms  of  Kansas,          -         -  623 

Fort  Leavenworth,           -  -  628 

Leavenworth,                          -  629 

Lawrence,        -         -         -  -  631 

Lecompton,          -         -        -  633 

Topeka  Bridge,         -        -  -  635 

Kansas  Indian  Village,         •  637 

CALIFORNIA. 

Arms  of  California,  -  649 

Habor  of  San  Francisco,  -  659 
Execution  by  the  Vigilance 

Committee,  -  -  664 
Washing  Gold  with  the  Long 

Tom,  -  -  -  -  670 

Sutter's  Mill,  -  ,  -  669 

Hydraulic  Mining,  -  -  672 

Fremont's  Ranch,  -  673 
Mammoth  Tree  Grove, 


OREGON. 

Arms  of  Oregon,     - 
Valley  of  the  Willamette,    • 
Giant  Pines, 

NEW  MEXICO. 

Giant  Cactus, 

Pueblo,  or  Town  of  Zuni,     - 


-  675 


691 
696 
697 


709 
711 


x  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Ancient  Pueblo,       *         -         -  715  ARIZONA. 
Ground    Plan   of    an    Ancient 

Pueblo,                               -        715  Church  at  Tucson  on  San  Anto- 

Ancient  Pueblo  in  the  Canon  of  nio's  Day,                       -         -  723 

Chelly,         ....  717  Reduction  Works,  Heintzelman 

Canon  of  Chelly,          -         -       717  Silver  Mine,     -         -         -       724 
View  of  Inscription  Rock,  near 

Zuni,  -         -         -         -  719 

UTAH.  COLORADO. 


View  in  Salt  Lake  City,  -         -  730     View  in  Denver, 
Mormon  Harem,  -         -       732     Street  in  Denver, 


-  738 
739 


All  the  engravings  original  to  this  work  are  included  in  the  copy 
right,  and  can  not  be  copied  from  by  other  publishers,  without  an  infringe 
ment  of  the  law  protecting  this  kind  of  pioperty. 


STATES-TERRITORIES-CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 


STATES. 

CALIFORNIA,      -        -        -  649     MINNESOTA,  -        -        -  475 

ILLINOIS,        .--       281     MISSOURI,  -        -       555 

INDIANA,             -        -        -  231     NEVADA,  -        -        -  679 
IOWA,       ....       501     OHIO,       ....       133 

KANSAS,      ....  623    OREGON,      -  -        -        -  691 
KENTUCKY,     ...        61     WEST   VIRGINIA,           -          33 

MICHIGAN,         -        -  •      -  353    WISCONSIN,  -        -  421 

TERRITORIES. 

ARIZONA,       -'       *                -  721     MONTANA,     -  -        -        -   749 

COLORADO,         -                        737    NEBRASKA,       -  753 

DACOTAH,      •*                            757    NEW  MEXICO,  •                    703 

IDAHO,       -                                 747     UTAH,                •  -        -        727 

INDIAN,          -                           758    WASHINGTON,  -        -        -  701 

CITIES  — TOWNS. 


Abingdon, 

331 

Almont, 

386 

Aurora,  269,  685 

Beloit, 

451 

Acoma, 

713 

Alton, 

313 

Austin,           685 

Bellefontaine 

195 

Adrian, 

370 

Ann  Arbor, 

370 

Bannock  City  750 

Belleville, 

331 

Akron, 

195 

Ashtabula, 

195 

Bardstown,       86 

Bellevue,520 

,755 

Albuquerque  713 

Astoria, 

698 

Batavia,          331 

Belvidere, 

331 

Allegan, 

386 

Atchison, 

630 

Battle  Creek,  385 

Benecia, 

678 

CITIES — TOWNS. 


XI 


Bloomington, 

Eaton,             196 

Janesville,      451 

Massillon,       195 

267,  307 

Elgin,             331 

Jackson,         369 

Maysville,         73 

Boonville,       583 

Elk  City,        647 

Jacksonville,  303 

Mendota,        485 

BowlingGreen,86 
Bucyrus,         195 

Elyria,            195 
Evansville,     246 

JeffersonCity567 
Jeffersonville266 

MichiganCity266 
Milwaukie,     427 

Burlington,    524 

Fillmore  City  736 

Joliet,             329 

Minneapolis,  484 

Cairo,              317 

Flint,              379 

Kalamazoo,    385 

Mineral  Point451 

Cambridge,    196 

Florence  City647 

Kankakee 

Mishawaka,    269 

Cambridge 

Fon  du  Lac,  455 

City,           330 

Moline,          331 

City,           269 

Fort  Dodge,  536 

Kansas  City,  574 

Monroe,         370 

Cannelton,      269 

FortSnelling,482 

Kaskaskia,     299 

Monterey,      678 

Canton,           195 

Fort  Wayne,  251 

Kenosha,        450 

Morgantown,    43 

Carrolton,         86 

FortYuma,    678 

Keokuk,         527 

Mt.  Clemens,  386 

Carson  City,  682 

Frankfort,         64 

Keosauqua,    537 

Mt.  Pleasant,  537 

Cedar  Falls,   537 

Franklin,        269 

Klamath,        678 

Mt.  Vernon, 

Cedar  Rapids,537 

Fremont,        187 

La  Crosse,      453 

195,  269 

Ceredo,              42 

Freeport,        319 

La  Fayette,    255 

Muncie,         269 

Charleston,       42 

Galena,           319 

Lake  City,      485 

Muscatine,     533 

Chicago,         285 

Galesburg,      31  9 

Laguna,          713 

Naperville,     331 

Chillicothe,    159 

Gallipolis,       142 

Lancaster,       196 

Nauvoo,         325 

Cincinnati,      145 

Georgetown,     86 

Lansing,          367 

NebraskaCity755 

Circleville,      152 

Germantown,  196 

La  Pointe,      464 

Nemaha  City,  755 

Clarksburg,      43 

Golden  City,  740 

Laporte,         266 

New  Albany,  265 

Cleveland,       175 

Goshen,           269 

La  Salle,        330 

Newark,          166 

Coldwater,      385 

Grand  Haven,386 

Lawrence,       630 

N.  Harmony,  248 

ColoradoCity  740 

Grand  Rapids380 

Lawrenceburg, 

New  Lisbon,  196 

Coloma,          668 

Grasshopper 

266 

New  Madrid,  569 

Columbus, 

Falls,          636 

Leavenworth 

Newport,          74 

86,  164,  269 

Green  Bay,     432 

City,            629 

Nicolet,          485 

Conneaut,       173 

Greencastle,   267 

Lebanon,         196 

Niles,             385 

Connersville,  269 

Greenfield,      196 

Lecompton,    633 

Norwalk,        195 

Corydon,         267 

Greensburg,   269 

Le  Sueur,       485 

Oberlin,          195 

Coultersville,  677 

Grinnell,         537 

Lewisburg,       42 

Olympia,        702 

Council  Bluffs 

Guyandotte,     51 

Lexington80,572 

Omaha  City,  755 

City,            533 

Hamilton,       158 

Lima,              195 

Ontonagon,    401 

Covington,         74 

Hannibal,       579 

Logan,             196 

Oregon  City,  698 

Crawfordsville, 

Harrodsburg,  67 

Logansport,    265 

Oskaloosa,      537 

267 

Hastings,        485 

Los  Angelos,678 

Ossawatomie,636 

Crescent  City  678 

Henderson,       86 

Louisville,        68 

Ottawa,          331 

Cynthiana,        86 

Hermann,       584 

M'Connelsville, 

Owensboro,      86 

Davenport,     516 

Hickman,         86 

196 

Ozaukee,        464 

Danville,           85 

Hillsdale,       385 

Mackinaw,      386 

Paducah,          86 

Dayton,           189 

Hillsboro',      196 

Macomb,         331 

Painesville,    195 

Decatur,         331 

Hopkinsville,  86 

Madison,  262,439 

Paris,               86 

Delaware,       195 

Hudson,         454 

Manhattan,     636 

Parkersburg,    39 

Delphi,           269 

Humboldt 

Manitowoc,     464 

Pembina,        757 

Denver,           740 

City,           678 

Mansfield,       195 

Peoria,           308 

Des  Moines,  532 

Huntington,  269 

Marietta,         137 

Peru,              269 

Detroit,          359 

Independ'nce579 

Mariposa,       677 

Piqua,             195 

Dixon,            330 

Indianapolis,  239 

Marshall,        385 

Plattesmouth  755 

Dubuque,        506 

Iowa  City,      535 

Marquette,     401 

Pomeroy,        196 

Dunleith,        330 

Ironton,  196,583 

Marysville,     673 

Pontiac,          384 

Xll 


CITIES — TOWNS. 


Portage  City,  456 

St.  Anthony,  483 

Sioux  City,    537 

Vallejo,           678 

Port  Huron,  384 

St.  Charles, 

Smithland,        86 

Vandalia,        331 

Portland,        698 

331,  582 

Sonora,           674 

Versailles,        86 

Portsmouth,   161 

St.Genevieve,584 

South  Bend,  266 

Vevay,            267 

Potosi,            583 

St.  Joseph, 

Springfield, 

Vincennes,      234 

Prairie  du 

385,  577 

190,  297 

Virginia  City, 

Chien,         444 

St.  Louis,       559 

Sterling,         331 

681,  750 

Prescott,  454,721 

St.  Paul,         480 

Steubenville,  172 

Wabashaw,     485 

Princeton,      269 

Salt  Lake 

Stillwater,      485 

Warren,          195 

Quincy,           312 

City,            730 

Stockton,        673 

Watertown,    444 

Racine,           449 

Salem,             698 

Superior  City,464 

Waubonsee,    636 

Ravenna,        195 

San  Diego,     678 

Sycamore,       331 

Waukegan,    331 

Red  Wing,     485 

Sandoval,        331 

Taos,               712 

Wellsburg,       41 

Richmond,     245 

Sandusky,       185 

Tecumseh,      385 

Weston,   43,  578 

Ripley,           196 

SanFrancisco  658 

Terre  Haute,  243 

Wheeling,        39 

Rising  Sun,    269 

San  Jose,        678 

Tiffin,              195 

White  Sulphur 

Rockford,       319 

SantaBarbara678 

Toledo,           178 

Springs,        43 

Rock  Island 

Santa  Fe,        710 

Topeka,          634 

Wilmington,  196 

City,           322 

Sault  de  Ste. 

Trinidad,        678 

Winona,          485 

Rockvill«,       269 

Marie,         393 

Troy,              195 

Wooster,         195 

Romeo,           386 

Shakopee,       485 

Tubac,            723 

Wyandot,       630 

Russellville,     86 

Sheboygan,    464 

Tucson,           723 

Xenia,             131 

Sacramento 

Shelbyville, 

Two  Rivers,   464 

Youngstown,  195 

City,            668 

86,  269 

Upper    San- 

Ypsilanti,       385 

Saginaw,         384 

Sidney,           195 

dusky,         187 

Zanesville,      167 

St.  Anne,       330 

Silver  City,    681 

Urbana,  195,  331 

Zuni,               713 

HISTORICAL    SKETCH 


OF  THE 


WEST 


TWENTY  years  after  the  great  event  occurred,  which  has  immor 
talized  the  name  of  Christopher  Columbus,  Florida  was  discovered 
by  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon,  ex-governor  of  Porto  Rico.  Sailing  from 
that  island  in  March,  1512,  he  discovered  an  unknown  country, 
which  he  named  Florida,  from  the  abundance  of  its  flowers,  the 
trees  being  covered  with  blossoms,  and  its  first  being  seen  on 
Easter  Sunday,  a  day  called  by  the  Spaniards  Pascua  Florida; 
the  name  imports  the  country  of  flowers.  Other  explorers  soon 
visited  the  same  coast.  In  May,  1539,  Ferdinand  de  Soto,  the 
Governor  of  Cuba,  landed  at  Tampa  Bay,  with  six  hundred  fol 
lowers.  He  marched  into  the  interior;  and  on  the  1st  of  May, 
1541,  discovered  the  Mississippi;  being  the  first  European  who 
had  ever  beheld  that  mighty  river. 

Spain  for  many  years  claimed  the  whole  of  the  country — bounded 
by  the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  on  the  north,  all  of 
which  bore  the  name  of  Florida.  About  twenty  years  after  the 
discovery  of  the  Mississippi,  some  Catholic  missionaries  attempted 
to  form  settlements  at  St.  Augustine,  and  its  vicinity ;  and  a  few 
years  later  a  colony  of  French  Calvinists  had  been  established  on 
the  St.  Mary's,  near  the  coast.  In  1565,  this  settlement  was  anni 
hilated  by  an  expedition  from  Spain,  under  Pedro  Melendez  de 
Aviles ;  and  about  nine  hundred  French,  men,  women  and  children, 
cruelly  massacred.  The  bodies  of  many  of  the  slain  were  hung 
from  trees,  with  the  inscription,  "Not  as  Frenchmen,  'but  as 
heretics"  Having  accomplished  his  bloody  errand,  Melendez 
founded  St.  Augustine,  the  oldest  town  by  half  a  century  of  any 
now  in  the  Union.  Four  years  after,  Dominic  de  Gourges,  burn 
ing  to  avenge  his  countrymen,  fitted  out  an  expedition  at  his  own 
expense,  and  surprised  the  Spanish  colonists  on  the  St.  Mary's; 
destroying  the  ports,  burning  the  houses,  and  ravaging  the  settle 
ments  with  fire  and  sword ;  finishing  the  work  by  also  suspending 
some  of  the  corpses  of  his  enemies  from  trees,  with  the  inscription, 


14-  OUTLINE   HISTORY. 

"Not  as  Sp^i&rd#<  hit  aktyurderers"  Unable  to  hold  possession 
of  the  country!  de  Goiirges  retire.d  to  his  fleet.  Florida,  excepting 
for  a  fe^j&$jfc,^^tfa$fl  rni^ertfte  Spanish  crown,  suffering  much 
in  its  early  hTstory,  fronV  the  vicissitudes  of  war  and  piratical 
incursions,  until  1819,  when,  vastly  diminished  from  its  original 
boundaries,  it  was  ceded  to  the  United  States,  and  in  1845  became 
a  State. 

In  1535,  James  Cartier,  a  distinguished  French  mariner,  sailed 
with  an  exploring  expedition  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  taking  pos 
session  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  his  king,  called  it  "New 
France."  In  1608,  the  energetic  Champlain  created  a  nucleus  for 
the  settlement  of  Canada,  by  founding  Quebec.  This  was  the 
same  year  with  the  settlement  of  Jamestown,  Virginia,  and  twelve 
years  previous  to  that  on  which  the  Puritans  first  stepped  upon  the 
rocks  of  Plymouth. 

.  To  strengthen  the  establishment  of  French  dominion,  the  genius 
of  Champlain  saw  that  it  was  essential  to  establish  missions  among 
the  Indians.  Up  to  this  period  "the  far  west"  had  been  untrod 
by  the  foot  of  the  white  man.  In  1616,  a  French  Franciscan, 
named  Le  Caron,  passed  through  the  Iroquois  and  Wyandot 
nations — to  streams  running  into  Lake  Huron;  and  in  1634,  two 
Jesuits  founded  the  first  mission  in  that  region.  But  just  a  century 
elapsed  from  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi,  ere  the  first  Canadian 
envoys  met  the  savage  nations  of  the  northwest  at  the  falls  of  St. 
Mary's,  below  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior.  It  was  not  until  1659 
that  any  of  the  adventurous  fur-traders  wintered  on  the  shores  of 
this  vast  lake,  nor  until  1660  that  Rene  Mesnard  founded  the  first 
missionary  station  upon  its  rocky  and  inhospitable  coast.  Perish 
ing  soon  after  in  the  forest,  it  was  left  to  Father  Claude  Allouez, 
five  years  subsequent,  to  build  the  first  permanent  habitation  of 
white  men  among  the  Northwestern  Indians.  In  1668,  the  mission 
was  founded  at  the  falls  of  St.  Mary's,  by  Dablon  and  Marquette ; 
in  1670,  Nicholas  Perrot,  agent  for  the  intendant  of  Canada, 
explored  Lake  Michigan  to  near  its  southern  termination.  Formal 
possession  was  taken  of  the  northwest  by  the  French  in  1671,  and 
Marquette  established  a  missionary  station  at  Point  St.  Ignace,  on 
the  mainland  north  of  Mackinac,  which  was  the  first  settlement  in 
Michigan. 

Until  late  in  this  century,  owing  to  the  enmity  of  the  Indians 
bordering  the  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  the  adventurous  mission 
aries,  on  their  route  west,  on  pain  of  death,  were  compelled  to 
pass  far  to  the  north,  through  "a  region  horrible  with  forests,"  by 
the  Ottawa  and  French  Rivers  of  Canada. 

As  yet  no  Frenchman  had  advanced  beyond  Fox  River,  of 
Winnebago  Lake,  in  Wisconsin  ;  but  in  May,  1673,  the  missionary 
Marquette,  with  a  few  companions,  left  Mackinac  in  canoes; 
passed  up  Green  Bay,  entered  Fox  River,  crossed  the  country  to 
the  Wisconsin,  and,  following  its  current,  passed  into  and  dis 
covered  the  Mississippi;  down  which  they  sailed  several  hundred 


OUTLINE   HISTORY.  15 

miles,  and  returned  in  the  Autumn.  The  discovery  of  this  great 
river  gave  great  joy  to  New  France,  it  being  ua  pet  idea"  of  that 
age  that  some  of  its  western  tributaries  would  afford  a  direct  route 
to  the  South  Sea,  and  thence  to  China.  Monsieur  La  Salle,  a  man 
of  indefatigable  enterprise,  having  been  several  years  engaged  in 
the  preparation,  in  1682,  explored  the  Mississippi  to  the  sea,  and 
took  formal  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  King  of 
France,  in  honor  of  whom  he  called  it  Louisiana.  In  1685,  he 
also  took  formal  possession  of  Texas,  and  founded  a  colony  on  the 
Colorado;  but  La  Salle  was  assassinated,  and  the  colony  dispersed. 

The  descriptions  of  the  beauty  and  magnificence  of  the  Valley 
of  the  Mississippi,  given  by  these  explorers,  led  many  adventurers 
from  the  cold  climate  of  Canada  to  follow  the  same  route,  and 
commence  settlements.  About  the  year  1680,  Kaskaskia  and 
Cahokia,  the  oldest  towns  in  the  Mississippi  Valley,  were  founded. 
Kaskaskia  became  the  capital  of  the  Illinois  country,  and  in  1721, 
a  Jesuit  college  and  monastery  were  founded  tllere. 

A  peace  with  the  Iroquois,  Plurons  and  Ottawas,  in  1700,  gave 
the  French  facilities  for  settling  the  western  part  of  Canada.  In 
June,  1701,  De  la  Motte  Cadillac,  with  a  Jesuit  missionary  and  a 
hundred  men,  laid  the  foundation  of  Detroit.  All  of  the  extensive 
region  south  of  the  lakes  was  now  claimed  by  the  French,  under 
the  name  of  Canada,  or  New  France.  This  excited  the  jealousy 
of  the  English,  and  the  New  York  legislature  passed  a  law  for 
hanging  every  Popish  priest  that  should  come  voluntarily  into  the 
province.  The  French,  chiefly  through  the  mild  and  conciliating 
course  of  their  missionaries,  had  gained  so  much  influence  over 
the  western  Indians,  that,  when  a  war  broke  out  with  England,  in 
1711,  the  most  powerful  of  the  tribes  became  their  allies;  and  the 
latter  unsuccessfully  attempted  to  restrict  their  claims  to  the  country 
south  of  the  lakes.  The  Fox  nation,  allies  of  the  English,  in  1713, 
made  an  attack  upon  Detroit ;  but  were  defeated  by  the  French 
and  their  Indian  allies.  The  treaty  of  Utrecht,  this  year,  ended 
this  war. 

By  the  year  1720,  a  profitable  trade  had  arisen  in  furs  and  agri 
cultural  products  —  between  the  French  of  Louisiana  and  those  of 
Illinois;  and  settlements  had  been  tnade  on  the  Mississippi,  below 
the  junction  of  the  Illinois.  To  confine  the  English  to  the  Atlan 
tic  coast,  the  French  adopted  the  plan  of  forming  a  line  of  military- 
posts,  to  extend  from  the  great  northern  lakes  to  the  Mexican  Gulf, 
and  as  one  of  the  links  of  the  chain,  Fort  Chartres  was  built-on  the 
Mississippi,  near  Kaskaskia ;  and  in  its  vicinity  soon  flourished 
the  villages  of  Cahokia  and  Prairie  du  Rocher. 

The  Ohio  at  this  time  was  but  little  known  to  the  French,  and 
on  their  early  maps  was  but  an  insignificant  stream.  Early  in  this 
century  their  missionaries  had  penetrated  to  the  sources  of  the  Al- 
leghany.  In  1721,  Joncaire,  a  French  agent  and  trader,  estab 
lished  himself  among  the  Senecas  at  Lewistown,  and  Fort  Niagara 
was  erected,  near  the  falls,  five  years  subsequent.  In  1735,  accord- 


16  OUTLINE   HISTORY. 

ing  to  some  authorities,  Post  St.  Vincent  was  erected  on  the 
Wabash.  Almost  coeval  with  this,  was  the  military  post  of  Presque 
Isle,  on  the  site  of  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  and  from  thence  a  cordon 
of  posts  extended  on  the  Alleghany  to  Pittsburgh;  and  from  thence 
down  the  Ohio  to  the  Wabash. 

A  map,  published  at  London  in  1755,  gives  the  following  list  of 
French  posts,  as  then  existing  in  the  west :  Two  on  French  Creek, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Erie,  Pennsylvania;  Duquesne,  on  the  site  of 
Pittsburgh;  Miamis,  on  the  Maumee,  near  the  site  of  Toledo  ;  San- 
dusky,  on  Sandusky  Bay;  St.  Joseph's,  on  St.  Joseph's  River, 
Michigan;  Ponchartrain,  site  of  Detroit;  -Massillimacinac;  one  on 
Fox  River,  Green  Bay;  Crevecoeur,  on  the  Illinois;  Rockfort,  or 
Fort  St.  Louis,  on  the  Illinois;  Vincennes;  Cahokia;  Kaskaskia, 
and  one  at  each  of  the  mouths  of  the  Wabash,  Ohio,  and  Missouri. 
Other  posts,  not  named,  were  built  about  that  time.  On  the  Ohio, 
just  below  Portsmouth,  are  ruins,  supposed  to  be  those  of  a  French 
fort ;  as  they  had  a  post  there  during  Braddock's  war. 

In  1749,  the  French  regularly  explored  the  Ohio,  and  formed 
alliances  with  the  Indians  in  Western  New  York,  Pennsylvania, 
and  Virginia.  The  English,  who  claimed  the  whole  west  to  the 
Pacific,  but  whose  settlements  were  confined  to  the  comparatively 
narrow  strip  east  of  the  mountains,  were  jealous  of  the  rapidly 
increasing  power  of  the  French  in  the  west.  Not  content  with 
exciting  the  savages  to  hostilities  against  them,  they  stimulated 
private  enterprise  by  granting  six  hundred  thousand  acres  of  choice 
land  on  the  Ohio,  to  the  "Ohio  Company." 

By  the  year  1751,  there  were  in  the  Illinois  country,  the  settle 
ments  of  Cahokia,  five  miles  below  the  site  of  St.  Louis ;'  St.  Philip's, 
forty-five  miles 'farther  down  the  river;  St.  Genevieve,  a  little  lower 
still,  and  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  Fort  Chartres,  Kas 
kaskia  and  Prairie  du  Rocher.  The  largest  of  these  was  Kaskas 
kia,  which  at  one  time  contained  nearly  three  thousand  souls. 

In  1748,  the  Ohio  Company,  composed  mainly  of  wealthy  Vir 
ginians,  dispatched  Christopher  Gist  to  explore  the  country,  gain 
the  good-will  of  the  Indians,  and  ascertain  the  plans  of  the  French. 
Crossing  overland  to  the  Ohio,  he  proceeded  down  it  to  the  Great 
Miami,  up  which  he  passed  to  the  towns  of  the  Miamies,  about 
fifty  miles  north  of  the  site  of  Dayton.  The  next  year  the  com 
pany  established  a  trading  post  in  that  vicinity,  on  Loramies  Creek, 
the  first  point  of  English  settlement  in  the  western  country ;  it  was 
soon  after  broken  up  by  the  French. 

In  the  year  1753,  Dinwiddie,  Governor  of  Virginia,  sent  George 
Washington,  then  twenty-one  years  of  age,  as  commissioner,  to 
remonstrate  with  the  French  commandant  who  was  at  Fort  le 
Boeuf,  near  the  site  of  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  against  encroachments 
of  the  French.  The  English  claimed  the  country  by  virtue  of  her 
first  royal  charters;  the  French  by  the  stronger  title  of  discovery 
and  possession.  The  result  of  the  mission  proving  unsatisfactory, 
the  English,  although  it  was  a  time  of  peace,  raised  a  force  to 


OUTLINE   HISTORY.  U 

expel  the  invaders  from  the  Ohio  and  its  tributaries.  A  detachment 
under  Lieut.  Ward  erected  a  fort  on  the  site  of  Pittsburgh ;  but  it 
was  surrendered  shortly  after,  in  April,  1754,  to  a  superior  force 
of  French  and  Indians  under  Contrecoeur,  and  its  garrison  peace 
ably  permitted  to  retire  to  the  frontier  post  of  Cumberland.  Con 
trecoeur  then  erected  a  strong  fortification  at  "the  fork,"  under  the 
name  of  Fort  Duquesne. 

Measures  were  now  taken  by  both  nations  for  the  struggle  that 
was  to  ensue.  On  the  28th  of  May,  a  strong  detachment  of  Vir 
ginia  troops,  under  Washington,  surprised  a  small  body  of  French 
from  Fort  Duquesne,  killed  its  commander,  M.  Jumonville,  and 
ten  men,  arid  took  nearly  all  the  rest  prisoners.  He  then  fell  back 
and  erected  Fort  Necessity,  near  the  site  of  Uniontown.  In  July 
he  was  attacked  by  a  large  body  of  French  and  Indians,  com 
manded  by  M.  Yilliers,  and  after  a  gallant  resistance,  compelled  to 
capitulate  with  permission  to  retire  unmolested,  and  under  the  ex 
press  stipulation  that  farther  settlements  or  forts  should  not  be 
founded  by  the  English,  west  of  the  mountains,  for  one  year. 

On  the  9th  of  July,  1755,  Gen.  Braddock  was  defeated  within 
ten  miles  of  Fort  Duquesne.  His  army,  composed  mainly  of  vete 
ran  English  troops,  passed  into  an  ambuscade  formed  by  a  far 
inferior  body  of  French  and  Indians,  who,  lying  concealed  in  two 
deep  ravines,  each  side  of  his  line  of  march,  poured  in  upon  the 
compact  body  of  their  enemy  vollies  of  musketry,  with  almost  per 
fect  safety  to  themselves.  The  Virginia  provincials,  under  Wash 
ington,  by  their  knowledge  of  border  warfare  and  cool  bravery, 
alone  saved  the  army  from  complete  ruin.  Braddock  was  himself 
mortally  wounded  by  a  provincial  named  Fausett  A  brother  of 
the  latter  had  disobeyed  the  silly  orders  of  the  general,  that  the 
troops  should  not  take  positions  behind  the  trees,  when  Braddock 
rode  up  and  struck  him  down.  Fausett,  who  saw  the  whole  trans 
action,  immediately  drew  up  his  rifle  and  shot  him  through  the 
lungs ;  partly  from  revenge,  and  partly  as  a  measure  of  salvation 
to  the  army  which  was  being  sacrificed  to  his  headstrong  obstinacy 
and  inexperience. 

The  result  of  this  battle  gave  the  French  and  Indians  a  complete 
ascendancy  on  the  Ohio,  and  put  a  check  to  the  operations  of  the 
English,  west  of  the  mountains,  for  two  or  three  years.  In  July, 
1758,  Gen.  Forbes,  with  seven  thousand  men,  left  Carlisle,  Penn., 
for  the  west.  A  corps  in  advance,  principally  of  Highland  Scotch, 
under  Major  Grant,  were  on  the  13th  of  September  defeated  in  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  Duquesne,  on  the  site  of  Pittsburgh.  A  short 
time  after,  the  French  and  Indians,  under  Col.  Boquet,  made  an 
unsuccessful  attack  upon  the  advanced  guard. 

In  November,  the  commandant  of  Fort  Duquesne,  unable  to 
cope  with  the  superior  force  approaching  under  Forbes,  abandoned 
the  fortress,  and  descended  to  Ne>y  Orleans.  On  his  route,  he 
erected  Fort  Massac,  so  called  in  honor  of  M.  Massac,  who  super 
intended  its  construction.  It  vas  upon  the  Ohio,  within  forty 
2 


18  OUTLINE   HISTORY. 

miles  of  its  mouth — and  within  the  limits  of  Illinois.  Forbes  re 
paired  Fort  Duquesne,  and  changed  its  name  to  Fort  Pitt,  in  honor 
of  the  English  Prime  Minister. 

The  English  were  now  for  the  first  time  in  possession  of  the 
upper  Ohio.  In  the  spring,  they  established  several  posts  in  that 
region,  prominent  among  which  was  Fort  Burd,  or  Redstone  Old 
Fort,  on  the  site  of  Brownsville. 

Owing  to  the  treachery  of  Gov.  Lyttleton,  in  1760,  by  which, 
twenty-two  Cherokee  chiefs  on  an  embassy  of  peace  were  made 
prisoners  at  Fort  George,  on  the  Savannah,  that  nation  flew  to 
arms,  and  for  a  while  desolated  the  frontiers  of  Virginia  and  the 
Carolinas.  Fort  Loudon,  in  East  Tennessee,  having  been  besieged 
by  the  Indians,  the  garrison  capitulated  on  the  7th  of  August,  and 
on  the  day  afterward,  while  on  the  route  to  Fort  George,  were 
attacked,  and  the  greater  part  massacred.  In  the  summer  of  1761, 
Col.  Grant  invaded  their  country,  and  compelled  them  to  sue  for 
peace.  On  the  north  the  most  brilliant  success  had  attended  the 
British  arms.  Ticonderoga,  Crown  Point,  and  Fort  Niagara,  and 
Quebec  were  taken  in  1759,  and  the  next  year  Montreal  fell,  and 
with  it  all  of  Canada. 

By  the  treaty  of  Paris,  in  1763,  France  gave  up  her  claim  to 
New  France  and  Canada;  embracing  all  the  country  east  of  the 
Mississippi,  from  its  source  to  the  Bayou  Iberville.  The  remainder 
of  her  Mississippi  possessions,  embracing  Louisiana  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  Island  of  Orleans,  she  soon  after  secretly  ceded 
to  Spain,  which  terminated  the  dominion  of  France  on  this  con 
tinent,  and  her  vast  plans  for  empire. 

At  this  period  Lower  Louisiana  had  become  of  considerable  im 
portance.  The  explorations  of  La  Salle  in  the  Lower  Mississippi 
country,  were  renewed  in  1697,  by  Lemoine  D'Iberville,  a  brave 
French  naval  officer.  Sailing  with  two  vessels,  he  entered  the 
Mississippi  in  March  1698,  by  the  Bayou  Iberville.  He  built  forts 
on  the  Bay  of  Biloxi,  and  at  Mobile,  both  of  which  were  deserted 
for  the  Island  of  Dauphine,  which  for  years  was  the  headquarters 
of  the  colony.  He  also  erected  Fort  Balise,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  fixed  on  the  site  of  Fort  Rosalie ;  which  latter  became 
the  scene  of  a  bloody  Indian  war. 

After  his  death,  in  1706,  Louisiana  was  but  little  more  than  a 
wilderness,  and  a  vain  search  for  gold,  and  trading  in  furs,  rather 
than  the  substantial  pursuits  of  agriculture,  allured  the  colonists ; 
and  much  time  was  lost  in  journeys  of  discovery,  and  in  collecting 
furs  among  distant  tribes.  Of  the  occupied  lands,  Biloxi  was  a 
barren  sand,  and  the  soil  of  the  Isle  of  Dauphine  poor.  Bienville, 
the  brother  and  successor  of  D'Iberville,  was  at  the  fort  on  the 
Delta  of  the  Mississippi,  where  he  and  his  soldiers  were  liable  to 
inundations,  and  held  joint  possession  with  mosquitoes,  frogs, 
snakes  and  alligators. 

In  1712,  Antoine  de  Crozat,  an  East  India  merchant,  of  vast 

ealth,  purchased  a  grant  of  the  entire  country,  with  the  exclusive 


OUTLINE    HISTORY.  19 

right  of  commerce  for  sixteen  years.  But  in  1717,  the  speculation 
having  resulted  in  his  ruin,  and  to  the  injury  of  the  colonists,  he 
surrendered  his  privileges.  •  Soon  after,  a  number  of  other  adven 
turers,  under  the  name  of  the  Mississippi  Company,  obtained  from 
the  French  government  a  charter,  which  gave  them  all  the  rights 
of  sovereignty,  except  the  bare  title,  including  a  complete  mono 
poly  of  the  trade,  and  the  mines.  Their  expectations  were  chiefly 
from  the  mines;  and  on  the  strength  of  a  former  traveler,  Nicholas 
Perrot,  having  discovered  a  copper  mine  in  the  valley  of  St.  Peters, 
the  directors  of  the  company  assigned  to  the  soil  of  Louisiana, 
silver  and  gold ;  and  to  the  mud  of  the  Mississippi,  diamonds  and 
pearls.  The  notorious  Law,  who  then  resided  at  Paris,  was  the 
secret  agent  of  the  company.  To  form  its  capital,  its  shares  were 
sold  at  five  hundred  livres  each;  and  such  was  the  speculating 
mania  of  the  times,  that  in  a  short  time  more  than  a  hundred  mil 
lions  were  realized.  Although  this  proved  ruinous  to  individuals, 
yet  the  colony  was  greatly  benefited  by  the  consequent  emigration, 
and  agriculture  and  commerce  flourished. 

In  1719,  Renault^  an  agent  of  the  Mississippi  Company,  left 
France  with  about  two  hundred  miners  and  emigrants,  to  carry  out 
the  mining  schemes  of  the  company.  He  bought  five  hundred 
slaves  at  St.  Domingo,  to  work  the  mines,  which  he  conveyed  to 
Illinois  in  1720.  He  established  himself  a  few  miles  above  Kas- 
kasia,  and  founded  there  the  village  of  St.  Philips.  Extravagant 
expectations  existed  in  France,  of  his  probable  success  in  obtaining 
gold  and  silver.  He  sent  out  exploring  parties  in  various  sections  of 
Illinois  and  Missouri.  His  explorations  extended  to  the  banks  of 
the  Ohio  and  Kentucky  rivers,  and  even  to  the  Cumberland  valley 
in  Tennessee,  where  at  u  French  Lick,"  on  the  site  of  Nashville,  the 
French  established  a  trading  post.  Although  Renault  was  woe 
fully  disappointed  in  not  discovering  extensive  mines  of  gold  or 
silver,  yet  he  made  various  discoveries  of  lead;  among  which 
were  the  mines  north  of  Potosi,  and  those  on  the  St.  Francois. 
He  eventually  turned  his  whole  attention  to  the  smelting  of  lead, 
of  which  he  made  considerable  quantities,  and  shipped  to  France. 
He  remained  in  the  country  until  1744.  Nothing  of  consequence 
was  again  done  in  mining,  until  after  the  American  Revolution. 

In  1718,  Bienville  laid  out  the  town  of  New  Orleans,  on  the 
plan  of  Rochefort,  France.  Some  four  years  after,  the  bankruptcy 
of  Law  threw  the  colony  into  the  greatest  confusion,  and  occasioned 
wide-spread  ruin  in  France,  where  speculation  had  been  carried  to 
an  extreme  unknown  before. 

The  expenditures  for  Louisiana,  were  consequently  stopped,  but 
the  colony  had  now  gained  strength  to  struggle  for  herself.  Louisi 
ana  was  then  divided  into  nine  cantons,  of  which  Arkansas  and 
Illinois  formed  each  one. 

About  this  time,  the  colony  had  considerable  difficulty  with  the 
Indian  tribes,  and  were  involved  in  wars  with  the  Chickasaws  and 
the  Natchez.  This  latter  named  tribe  were  finally  completely  con- 


20  OUTLINE    HISTORY. 

que'red.  The  remnant  of  them  dispersed  among  other  Indians,  so 
that,  that  once  powerful  people,  as  a  distinct  race,  was  entirely 
lost.  Their  name  alone  survives,  as  that  of  a  flourishing  city. 
Tradition  related  singular  stories  of  the  Natchez.  It  was  believed 
that  they  emigrated  from  Mexico,  and  were  kindred  to  the  Incas 
of  Peru.  The  Natchez  alone,  of  all  the  Indian  tribes,  had  a  con 
secrated  temple,  where  a  perpetual  fire  was  maintained  by  ap 
pointed  guardians.  Near  the  temple,  on  an  artificial  mound, 
stood  the  dwelling  of  their  chief — called  the  Great  Sun ;  who  was 
supposed  to  be  descended  from  that  luminary,  and  all  around  were 
grouped  the  dwellings  of  the  tribe.  His  power  was  absolute  ;  the 
dignity  was  hereditary,  and  transmitted  exclusively  through  the 
female  line;  and  the  race  of  nobles  was  so  distinct,  that  usage  had 
moulded  language  into  the  forms  of  reverence. 

In  1732,  the  Mississippi  Company  relinquished  their  charter  to 
the  king,  after  holding  possession  fourteen  years.  At  this  period, 
Louisiana  had  five  thousand  whites,  and  twenty-five  hundred 
blacks.  Agriculture  was  improving  in  all  the  nine  cantons,  par 
ticularly  in  Illinois,  which  was  considered  the  granary  of  the 
colony.  Louisiana  continued  to  advance  until  the  war  broke  out 
with  England  in  1775,  which  resulted  in  the  overthrow  of  French 
dominion. 

Immediately  after  the  peace  of  1763,  all  the  old  French  forts  in 
the  west,  as  far  as  Green  Bay,  were  repaired  and  garrisoned  with 
British  troops.  Agents  and  surveyors  too,  were  making  examina 
tions  of  the  finest  lands  east  and  northeast  of  the  Ohio.  Judging 
from  the  past,  the  Indians  were  satisfied  that  the  British  intended 
to  possess  the  whole  country.  The  celebrated  Ottowa  chief,  Pon- 
tiac,  burning  with  hatred  against  the  English,  in  that  year  formed 
a  general  league  with  the  western  tribes,  and  by  the  middle  of  May 
all  the  western  posts  had  fallen — or  were  closely  besieged  by  the 
Indians,  and  the  whole  frontier,  for  almost  a  thousand  miles,  suf 
fered  from  the  merciless  fury  of  savage  warfare.  Treaties  of  peace 
were  made  with  the  different  tribes  of  Indians,  in  the  year  follow 
ing,  at  Niagara,  by  Sir  William  Johnson  ;  at  Detroit  or  vicinity 
by"  General  Bradstreet,  and,  in  what  is  now  Coshocton  county, 
Ohio,  by  Col.  Boquet ;  at  the  German  Flats,  on  the  Mohawk,  with 
the  Six  Nations  and  their  confederates.  By  these  treaties,  exten 
sive  tracts  were  ceded  by  the  Indians  in  New  York  and  Pennsyl 
vania,  and  south  of  Lake  Erie. 

Peace  having  been  concluded,  the  excitable  frontier  population 
began  to  cross  the  mountains.  Small  settlements  were  formed  on 
the  main  routes,  extending  north  toward  Fort  Pitt,  and  south  to 
the  head  waters  of  the  Holston  and  Clinch,  in  the  vicinity  of  South 
western  Virginia.  In  1766,  a  town  was  laid  out  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fort  Pitt.  Military  land  warrants  had  been  issued  in  great  num 
bers,  and  a  perfect  mania  for  western  land  had  taken  possession  of 
the  people  of  the  middle  colonies.  The  treaty  made  by  Sir  William 
ohnson,  at  Fort  Stanwix,  on  the  site  of  Utica,  New  York,  in 


OUTLINE   HISTORY.  21 

October,  1768,  with  the  Six  Nations  and  their  confederates,  and  those 
of  Hard  Labor  and  Lochaber,  made  with  the  Cherokees,  afforded 
a  pretext  under  which  the  settlements  were  advanced.  It  was  now 
falsely  claimed  that  the  Indian  title  was  extinguished  east  and  south 
of  the  Ohio,  to  an  indefinite  extent,  and  the  spirit  of  emigration 
and  speculation  in  land  greatly  increased.  Among  the  land  com 
panies  formed  at  this  time  was  the  "  Mississippi  Company,"  of 
which  George  Washington  was  an  active  member. 

Up  to  this  period  very  little  was  known  by  the  English  of  the 
country  south  of  the  Ohio.  In  1754,  James  M.  Bride,  with  some 
others,  had  passed  down  the  Ohio  in  canoes ;  and  landing  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kentucky  River,  marked  the  initials  of  their  names, 
and  the  date  on  the  barks  of  trees.  On  their  return,  they  were  the 
first  to  give  a  particular  account  of  the  beauty  and  richness  of  the 
country  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  British  settlements.  No  larther 
notice  seems  to  have  been  taken  of  Kentucky  until  the  year  1767, 
when  John  Finlay,  an  Indian  trader,  with  others,  passed  through 
a  part  of  the  rich  lands  of  Kentucky — then  called  by  the  Indians 
"  the  Dark  and  Bloody  Ground."  Finlay,  returning  to  North 
Carolina,  fired  the  curiosity  of  his  neighbors  by  the  reports  of  the 
discoveries  he  had  made.  In  consequence  of  this  information,  Col. 
Daniel  Boone,  in  company  with  Finlay,  Stewart,  Holden,  Monay, 
and  Cool,  set  out  from  their  residence  on  the  Zadkin,  in  North 
Carolina,  May  1st,  1769  ;  and  after  a  long  and  fatiguing  march, 
over  a  mountainous  and  pathless  wilderness,  arrived  on  the  lied 
Eiver.  Here,  from  the  top  of  an  eminence,  Boone  and  his  com 
panions  first  beheld  a  distant  view  of  the  beautiful  lands  of  Kentucky. 
The  plains  and  forests  abounded  with  wild  beasts  of  every  kind ; 
deer  and  elk  were  common  ;  the  buffalo  were  seen  in  herds,  and 
the  plains  covered  with  the  richest  verdure.  The  glowing  descrip 
tions  of  these  adventurers  inflamed  the  imaginations  of  the  border 
ers,  and  their  own  sterile  mountains  beyond  lost  their  charms,  when 
compared  to  the  fertile  plains  of  this  newly -discovered  Paradise  in 
the  West. 

In  1770,  Ebenezer  Silas  and  Jonathan  Zane  settled  Wheeling. 
In  1771,  such  was  the  rush  of  emigration  to  Western  Pennsylvania 
and  Western  Virginia,  in  the  region  of  the  Upper  Ohio,  that  every 
kind  of  breadstuff*  became  so  scarce,  that,  for  several  months,  a  great 
part  of  the  population  were  obliged  to  subsist  entirely  on  meats, 
roots,  vegetables,  and  milk,  to  the  entire  exclusion  of  all  bread- 
stuffs  ;  and  hence  that  period  was  long  after  known  as  "the  starving 
year."  Settlers,  enticed  by  the  beauty  of  the  Cherokee  country, 
emigrated  to  East  Tennessee,  and  hundreds  of  families  also,  moved 
farther  south  to  the  mild  climate  of  West  Florida,  which  at  this 
period  extended  to  the  Mississippi.  In  the  summer  of  1773,  Frank 
fort  and  Louisville,  Kentucky,  were  laid  out.  The  next  year  was 
signalized  by  "  Dunmore's  war,"  which  temporarily  checked  the 
settlements. 

In  the  summer  of  1774,  several  other  parties  of  surveyors  and 


22  OUTLINE   HISTORY. 

hnnters  entered  Kentucky,  and  James  Harrod  erected  a  dwell  nip: — 
the  first  erected  by  whites  in  the  country — on  or  near  the  site  of 
Harrodsburg,  around  which  afterward  arose  "  Harrod  Station." 
In  the  year  1775,  Col.  Richard  Henderson,  a  native  of  North  Car 
olina,  in  behalf  of  himself  and  his  associates,  purchased  of  the  Cher- 
okees  all  the  country  lying  between  the  Cumberland  River  and 
Cumberland  Mountains  and  Kentucky  River,  and  south  of  the 
Ohio,  which  now  comprises  more  than  half  of  the  State  of  Ken 
tucky.  The  new  country  he  named  Transylvania.  The  first 
legislature  sat  at  Boonsborough,  and  formed  an  independent  gov 
ernment,  on  liberal  and  rational  principles.  Henderson  was  very 
active  in  granting  lands  to  new  settlers.  The  legislature  of  Vir 
ginia  subsequently  crushed  his  schemes ;  they  claimed  the  sole 
right  to  purchase  lands  from  the  Indians,  and  declared  his  purchase 
null  and  void.  But  as  some  compensation  for  the  services  re-n- 
dered  in  opening  the  wilderness,  the  legislature  granted  to  the  pro 
prietors  a  tract  of  land,  twelve  miles  square,  on  the  Ohio,  below 
the  mouth  of  Green  River. 

In  1775,  Daniel  Boone,  in  the  employment  of  Henderson,  laid 
out  the  town  and  fort  afterward  called  Boonsborough.  From  this 
time  Boonsborough  and  Harrodsburg  became  the  nucleus  and  sup 
port  of  emigration  and  settlement  in  Kentucky.  In  May,  another 
fort  was  also  built,  which  was  under  the  command  of  Col.  Benja 
min  Logan,  and  named  Logan's  Fort.  It  stood  on  the  site  of  Stan 
ford,  in  Lincoln  county,  and  became  an  important  post. 

In  1776,  the  jurisdiction  of  Virginia  was  formally  extended  over 
the  colony  of  Transylvania,  which  was  organized  into  a  county 
named  Kentucky,  and  the  first  court  was  held  at  Harrodsburg  in 
the  spring  of  1787.  At  this  time  the  war  of  the  Revolution  was 
in  full  progress,  anrl  the  early  settlers  of  Kentucky  were  particu 
larly  exposed  to  the  incursions  of  the  Indian  allies  of  Great  Britain; 
a  detailed  account  of  which  is  elsewhere  given  in  this  volume.  The 
early  French  settlements  in  the  Illinois  country  now  being  in  pos 
session  of  that  power,  formed  important  points  around  which  the 
British  assembled  the  Indians  and  instigated  them  to  murderous 
incursions  against  the  pioneer  population. 

The  year  1779  was  marked  in  Kentucky  by  the  passage  of  the 
Virginia  Land  Laws.  At  this  time  there  existed  claims  of  various 
kinds  to  the  western  lands.  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  ex 
amine  and  give  judgment  upon  these  various  claims,  as  they  might 
be  presented.  These  having  been  provided  for,  the  residue  of  the 
the  rich  lands  of  Kentucky  were  in  the  market.  As  a  consequence 
of  the  passage  of  these  laws,  a  vast  number  of  emigrants  crossed 
the  mountains  into  Kentucky  to  locate  land  warrants:  and  in  the 
years  1779-'80  and  '81,  the  great  and  absorbing  topic  in  Kentucky 
was  to  enter,  survey  and  obtain  patents  for  the  richest  lands, 
and  this,  too,  in  the  face  of  all  the  horrors  and  dangers  of  an  In 
dian  war. 

Although  the  main  features  of  the  Virginia  land  laws  were  just 


OUTLINE   HISTORY.  23 

and  liberal,  yet  a  great  defect  existed  in  their  not  providing  for  a 
general  survey  of  the  country  by  the  parent  State,  and  its-subdi- 
vision  into  sections  and  parts  of  sections.  Each  warrant-holder 
being  required  to  make  his  own  survey,  and  having  the  privilege 
of  locating  according  to  his  pleasure,  interminable  confusion  arose 
from  want  of  precision  in  the  boundaries,  in  unskillful  hands, 
entries,  surveys,  and  patents  were  piled  upon  each  other,  overlap 
ping  and  crossing  in  inextricable  confusion ;  hence,  whe;i  the 
country  became  densely  populated,  arose  vexatious  lawsuits  and 
perplexities.  Such  men  as  Kenton  and  Boone,  who  had  done  so 
much  for  the  welfare  of  Kentucky  in  its  early  days  of  trial,  found 
their  indefinite  entries  declared  null  and  void,  and  were  dispos 
sessed,  in  their  old  age,  of  any  claim  upon  that  soil  for  which  they 
had  periled  their  all. 

The  close  of  the  revolutionary  war,  for  a  time  only,  suspended 
Indian  hostilities,  when  the  Indian  war  was  again  carried  on  with 
renewed  energy.  This  arose  from  the  failure  of  both  countries  in 
fully  executing  the  terms  of  the  treaty.  By  it,  England  was  obli 
gated  to  surrender  the  northwestern  posts  within  the  boundaries 
of  the  Union,  and  to  return  slaves  taken  during  the  war.  The 
United  States,  on  their  part  had  agreed  to  offer  no  legal  obstacles 
to  the  collection  of  debts  due  from  her  citizens  to  those  of  Great 
Britain.  Virginia,  indignant  at  the  removal  of  her  slaves  by  the 
British  fleet,  by  law  prohibited  the  collection  of  British  debts, 
while  England,  in  consequence,  refused  to  deliver  up  the  posts,  so 
that  they  were  held  by  her  more  than  ten  years,  until  Jay's  treaty 
was  concluded. 

Settlements  rapidly  advanced.  Simon  Kenton  having,  in  1784, 
erected  a  blockhouse  on  the  site  of  Maysville — then  called  Lime 
stone — that  became  the  point  from  whence  the  stream  of  emigra 
tion,  from  down  its  way  on  the  Ohio,  turned  into  the  interior. 

In  the  spring  of  1783,  the  first  court  in  Kentucky  was  held  at 
Harrodsburg.  At  this  period,  the  establishment  of  a  government, 
independent  of  Virginia,  appeared  to  be  of  paramount  necessity, 
in  consequence  of  troubles  with  the  Indians.  For  this  object,  the 
first  convention  in  Kentucky  was  held  at  Danville,  in  December, 
1784;  but  it  was  not  consummated  until  eight  separate  conventions 
had  been  held,  running  through  a  term  of  six  years.  The  last  was 
assembled  in  July,  1790;  on  the  4th  of  February,  1791,  Congress 
passed  the  act  admitting  Kentucky  into  the  Union,  and  in  the 
April  following  she  adopted  a  State  Constitution. 

Prior  to  this,  unfavorable  impressions  prevailed  in  Kentucky 
against  the  Union,  in  consequence  of  the  inability  of  Congress  to 
compel  a  surrender  of  the  northwest  posts,  and  the  apparent  dis 
position  of  the  Northern  States  to  yield  to  Spain,  for  twenty  years, 
the  sole  right  to  navigate  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
the  exclusive  right  to  which  was  claimed  by  that  power  as  being 
within  her  dominions  Kentucky  was  suffering  under  the  horrors 
of  Indian  warfare,  and  having  no  government  of  her  own,  she  saw 


24  OUTLINE    HISTORY. 

that  that  beyond  the  mountains  was  unable  to  afford  them  protec 
tion.  When,  in  the  year  1786,  several  States  in  Congress  showed 
a  disposition  to  yield  the  right  of  navigating  the  Mississippi  to 
Spain  for  certain  commercial  advantages,  which  would  inure  to 
their  benefit,  but  not  in  the  Last  to  that  of  Kentucky,  there  arose 
a  universal  voice  of  dissatisfaction ;  and  many  were  in  favor  of  de 
claring  the  independence  of  Kentucky  and  erecting  an  independent 
government  west  of  the  mountains. 

Spain  was  then  an  immense  landholder  in  the  West.  She  claimed 
all  east  of  the  Mississippi  lying  south  or  the  31st  degree  of  north 
latitude,  and  all  west  of  that  river  to  the  ocean. 

In  May,  1787,  a  convention  was  assembled  at  Danville  to  remon 
strate  with  Congress  against  the  proposition  of  ceding  the  naviga 
tion  of  the  Mississippi  to  Spain;  but  it  having  been  ascertained 
that  Congress,  through  the  influence  of  Virginia  and  the  other 
Southern  States,  would  not  permit  this,  the  convention  had  no  occa 
sion  to  act  upon  the  subject. 

In  the  year  1787,  quite  a  sensation  arose  in  Kentucky  in  conse 
quence  of  a  profitable  trade  having  been  opened  with  New  Orleans 
by  General  Wilkinson,  who  descended  thither  in  June,  with  a  boat 
load  of  tobacco  and  other  productions  of  Kentucky.  Previously, 
all  those  who  ventured  down  the  river  within  the  Spanish  settle 
ments,  had  their  property  seized.  The  lure  was  then  held  out  by 
the  Spanish  Minister,  that  if  Kentucky  would  declare  her  indepen 
dence  of  the  United  States,  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  should 
be  opened  to  her;  but  that,  never  would  this  privilege  be  extended 
while  she  was  a  part  of  the  Union,  in  consequence  of  existing  com 
mercial  treaties  between  Spain  and  other  European  powers. 

In  the  winter  of  1788-9,  the  notorious  Dr.  Connolly,  a  secret 
British  agent  from  Canada,  arrived  in  Kentucky.  His  object  ap 
peared  to  be  to  sound  the  temper  of  her  people,  and  ascertain  if 
they  were  willing  to  unite  with  British  troops  from  Canada,  and 
seize  upon  and  hold  New  Orleans  and  the  Spanish  settlements  on 
the  Mississippi.  He  dwelt  upon  the  advantages  which  it  must  be 
to  the  people  of  the  West  to  hold  and  possess  the  right  of  navigat 
ing  the  Mississippi ;  but  his  overtures  were  not  accepted. 

At  this  time  settlements  had  been  commenced  within  the  present 
limits  of  Ohio.  Before  giving  a  sketch  of  these,  we  glance  at  the 
western  land  claims. 

The  claim  of  the  English  monarch  to  the  Northwestern  Territory 
was  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of  peace  signed  at 
Paris,  September  3,  1783.  During  the  pendency  of  this  negotia 
tion,  Mr.  Oswald,  the  British  commissioner,  proposed  the  River 
Ohio  as  the  western  boundary  of  the  United  States,  and  but  for  the 
indomitable  persevering  opposition  of  John  Adams,  one  of  the 
American  commissioners,  who  insisted  upon  the  Mississippi  as  the 
boundary,  this  proposition  would  have  probably  been  acceded  to. 

'ihe  States  who  owned  western  unappropriated  lands  under  their 
original  charters  from  British  monarchs,  with  a  single  exception. 


OUTLINE   HISTORY.  25 

ceded  them  to  the  United  States.  In  March,  1784,  Virginia  ceded 
the  soil  and  jurisdiction  of  her  lands  northwest  of  the  Ohio.  In 
September,  1786,  Connecticut  ceded  her  claim  to  the  soil  and  juris 
diction  of  her  western  lands,  excepting  that  part  of  Ohio  known  as 
the  u  Western  Reserve,"  and  to  that  she  ceded  her  jurisdictional 
claims  in  1800.  Massachusetts  and  New  York  ceded  all  their 
claims.  Beside  these  were  the  Indian  claims  asserted  by  the  right 
of  possession.  These  have  been  extinguished  by  various  treaties, 
from  time  to  time,  as  the  inroads  of  emigration  rendered  necessary. 

The  Indan  title  to  a  large  part  of  the  territory  of  Ohio  having 
become  extinguished,  Congress,  before  settlements  were  com 
menced,  found  it  necessary  to  pass  ordinances  for  the  survey  and 
sale  of  the  lands  in  the  Northwest  Territory.  In  October,  1787, 
Manasseh  Cutler  and  Winthrop  Sargeant,  agents  of  the  New  Eng 
land  Ohio  Company,  made  a  large  purchase  of  land,  bounded  south 
by  the  Ohio,  and  west  by  the  Scioto  river.  Its  settlement  was  com 
menced  at  Marietta  in  the  spring  of  1788,  which  was  the  first  made 
by  the  Americans  within  Ohio.  A  settlement  had  been  attempted 
within  the  limits  of  Ohio,  on  the  site  of  Portsmouth,  in  April, 
1785,  by  four  families  from  Redstone,  Pennsylvania,  but  difficul 
ties  with  the  Indians  compelled  its  abandonment. 

About  the  time  of  the  settlement  of  Marietta,  Congress  appointed 
General  Arthur  St.  Clair,  Governor;  Winthrop  Sargeant,  Secre 
tary;  and  Samuel  Holden  Parsons,  James  M.  Yarnum  and  John 
Cleves  Symmes,  Judges  in  and  over  the  Territory.  They  organ 
ized  its  government  and  passed  laws,  and  the  governor  erected  the 
county  of  Washington,  embracing  nearly  the  whole  of  the  eastern 
half  of  the  present  limits  of  Ohio. 

In  November,  1788,  the  second  settlement  within  the  limits  of 
Ohio  was  commenced  at  Columbia,  on  the  Ohio,  five  miles  above 
the  site  of  Cincinnati,  and  within  the  purchase  and  under  the 
auspices  of  John  Cleves  Symmes  and  associates.  Shortly  after, 
settlements  were  commenced  at  Cincinnati  and  at  North  Bend, 
sixteen  miles  below,  both  within  Symmes'  purchase.  In  1790, 
another  settlement  was  made  at  Galliopolis  by  a  colony  from 
France — the  name  signifying  City  of  the  French. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  1789,  a  treaty  was  concluded  at  Fort 
Harmer,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingimi,  opposite  Marietta,  by 
Governor  St.  Clair,  in  which  the  treaty  which  had  been  made  four 
years  previous  at  Fort  M'Intosh,  on  the  site  of  Beaver,  Pennsyl 
vania,  was  renewed  and  confirmed.  It  did  not,  however,  produce 
the  favorable  results  anticipated.  The  Indians,  the  same  year, 
committed  numerous  murders,  which  occasioned  the  alarmed  set 
tlers  to  erect  block-houses  in  each  of  the  new  settlements.  In 
June,  Major  Doughty,  with  one  hundred  and' forty  men,  commenced 
the  erection  of  Fort  Washington,  on  the  site  of  Cincinnati.  In  the 
course  of  the  summer,  Gen.  Harmer  arrived  at  the  fort  with  three 
hundred  men. 

Negotiations  with  the  Indians  proving  unfavorable,  Gen.  Harmer 


26  OUTLINE    HISTORY. 

marched,  in  September,  1790,  from  Cincinnati  with  thirteen  hundred 
men,  less  than  one-fourth  of  whom  were  regulars,  to  attack  their 
towns  on  the  Mauinee.  He  succeeded  in  burning  their  towns;  but 
in  an  engagement  with  the  Indians,  part  of  his  troops  met  with  a 
severe  loss.  The  next  year  a  larger  army  was  assembled  at  Cin 
cinnati,  under  Gen.  St.  Clair,  composed  of  about  three  thousand 
men.  With  this  force  he  commenced  his  march  toward  the  Indian 
towns  on  the  Maumee.  Early  in  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  Nov., 
1791,  his  army,  while  in  camp  on  what  is  now  the  line  of  Darke 
and  Mercer  counties,  within  three  miles  of  the  Indiana  line,  and 
about  seventy  north  from  Cincinnati,  were  surprised  by  a  large 
body  of  Indians,  and  defeated  with  terrible  slaughter.  A  third 
army,  under  Gen.  Anthony  Wayne,  was  organized.  On  the  20th 
of  August,  1794,  they  met  and  completely  defeated  the  Indians, 
on  the  Maumee  River,  about  twelve  miles  south  of  the  site  of 
Toledo.  The  Indians  at  length,  becoming  convinced  of  their 
inability  to  resist  the  American  arms,  sued  for  peace.  On  the  3d 
of  August,  1795,  Gen.  Wayne  concluded  a  treaty  at  Greenville, 
sixty  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  with  eleven  of  the  most  powerful 
northwestern  tribes  in  grand  council.  This  gave  peace  to  the 
West  of  several  years'  duration,  during  which  the  settlements  pro 
gressed  with  great  rapidity.  Jay's  Treaty,  concluded  November 
19th,  1794,  was  a  most  important  event  to  the  prosperity  of  the 
West.  It  provided  for  the  withdrawal  of  all  the  British  troops 
from  the  northwestern  posts.  In  1796,  the  Northwestern  Territory 
was  divided  into  five  counties.  Marietta  was  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Hamilton  and  Washington  counties;  Vincennes,  of  Knox 
county;  Kaskaskia,  of  St.  Clair  county;  and  Detroit,  of  Wayne 
county.  The  settlers,  out  of  the  limits  of  Ohio,  were  Canadian  or 
Creole  French.  The  headquarters  of  the  northwest  army  were 
removed  to  Detroit,  at  which  point  a  fort  had  been  built,  by 
De  la  Motte  Cadillac,  as  early  as  1701. 

Originally  Virginia  claimed  jurisdiction  over  a  large  part  of 
Western  Pennsylvania  as  being  within  her  dominions,  yet  it  was 
not  until  after  the  close  of  the  Revolution  that  the  boundary  line 
was  permanently  established.  Then  this  tract  was  divided  into 
two  counties.  The  one,  Westmoreland,  extended  from  the  moun 
tains  west  of  the  Alleghany  River,  including  Pittsburgh  and  all 
the  country  between  the  Kishkeminitas  and  the  Youghiogheny. 
The  other,  Washington,  comprised  all  south  and  west  of  Pittsburgh, 
inclusive  of  all  the  country  east  and  west  of  the  Monongahela 
River.  At  this  period  Fort  Pitt  was  a  frontier  post,  around  which 
had  sprung  up  the  village  of  Pittsburgh,  which  was  not  regularly 
laid  out  into  a  town  until  1784.  The  settlement  on  the  Monon 
gahela  at  "  Redstone  Old  Fort,"  or  "  Fort  Burd,"  as  it  originally 
was  called,  having  become  an  important  point  of  embarkation  for 
western  emigrants,  was  the  next  year  laid  off  into  a  town  under 
the  name  of  Brownsville.  Regular  forwarding  houses  were  soon 
established  here,  by  whose  lines  goods  were  systematically  wagoned 


OUTLINE    HISTORY.  27 

over  the  mountains,  thus  superseding  the  slow  and  tedious  mode 
of  transportation  by  pack-horses,  to  which  fhe  emigrants  had 
previously  been  obliged  to  resort. 

In  July,  1786,  "  The  Pittsburgh  Gazette,"  the  first  newspaper 
issued  in  the  west,  was  published;  the  second  being  the  ''Ken 
tucky  Gazette,"  established  at  Lexington,  in  August  of  the  next 
year.  As  late  as  1791,  the  Alleghany  River  was  the  frontier 
limit  of  the  settlements  of  Pennsylvania,  the  Indians  holding 
possession  of  the  region  around  its  northwestern  tributaries,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  scattering  settlements,  which  were  all 
simultaneously  broken  up  and  exterminated  in  one  night,  in 
February  of  this  year,  by  a  band  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  Indians. 
During  the  campaigns  of  Harrner,  St.  Clair  and  Wayne,  Pitts 
burgh  was  the  great  depot  for  the  armies. 

By  this  time  agriculture  and  manufactures  had  begun  to  flourish 
in  Western  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia,  and  an  extensive  trade 
was  carried  on  with  the  settlements  on  the  Ohio  and  on.  the  Lower 
Mississippi,  with  New  Orleans  and  the  rich  Spanish  settlements  in 
its  vicinity.  Monongahela  whisky,  horses,  cattle,  and  agricultural 
and  mechanical  implements  of  iron  were  the  principal  articles  of 
export.  The  Spanish  government  soon  after  much  embarrassed 
this  trade  by  imposing  heavy  duties. 

The  first  settlements  in  Tennessee  were  made  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fort  London,  on  the  Little  Tennessee,  in  what  is  now  Monroe 
county,  East  Tennessee,  about  the  year  1758.  Forts  Loudon  and 
Chissel  were  built  at  that  time  by  Colonel  Byrd,  who  marched  into 
the  Cherokee  country  with  a  regiment  from  Virginia.  The  next 
year  war  broke  out  with  the  Cherokees.  In  1760,  the  Cherokees 
besieged  Fort  Loudon,  into  which  the  settlers  had  gathered  their 
families,  numbering  nearly  three  hundred  persons.  The  latter 
were  obliged  to  surrender  for  want  of  provisions,  but  agreeably  to 
the  terms  of  capitulation  were  to  retreat  unmolested  beyond  the 
Blue  Ridge.  When  they  had  proceeded  about  twenty  miles  on 
their  route,  the  savages  fell  upon  them  and  massacred  all  but  nine, 
not  even  sparing  the  women  and  children. 

The  only  settlements  were  thus  broken  up  by  this  war.  The 
next  year  the  celebrated  Daniel  Boone  made  an  excursion  from 
North  Carolina  to  the  waters  of  the  Holston.  In  1766,  Colonel 
James  Smith,  with  five  others,  traversed  a  great  portion  of  Middle 
and  West  Tennessee.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Tennessee,  Smith's 
companions  left  him  to  make  farther  explorations  in  Illinois,  while 
he,  in  company  with  a  negro  lad,  returned  home  through  the 
wilderness,  after  an  absence  of  eleven  months,  during  which  he 
saw  "  neither  bread,  money,  women,  nor  spirituous  liquors." 

Other  explorations  soon  succeeded,  and  permanent  settlements 
first  made  in  1768  and  '69,  by  emigrants  from  Virginia  and  North 
Carolina,  who  were  scattered  along  the  branches  of  the  Holston, 
French  Broad  and  Watauga.  The  jurisdiction  of  North  Carolina 
was,  in  1777,  extended  over  the  Western  District,  which  was 


28]  OUTLINE    HISTORY. 

organized  as  the  county  of  Washington,  and  extending  nominally 
westward  to  the  Mississippi.  Soon  after,  some  of  the  more  daring 
pioneers  made  a  settlement  at  Bledsoe's  Station,  in  Middle  Tennes 
see,  in  the  heart  of  the  Chickasaw  nation,  and  separated  several 
hundred  miles,  by  the  usual  traveled  route,  from  their  kinsmen  on 
the  Holston.  A  number  of  French  traders  had  previously  estab 
lished  a  trading  post  and  erected  a  few  cabins  at  the  u  Bluff"  near 
the  site  of  Nashville.  To  the  same  vicinity  Colonel  James 
Robertson,  in  the  fall  of  1780,  emigrated  with  forty  families  from 
North  Carolina,  who  were  driven  from  their  homes  by  the  maraud 
ing  incursions  of  Tarleton's  cavalry,  and  established  "  Robertson's 
Station,"  which  formed  the  nucleus  around  which  gathered  the 
settlements  on  the  Cumberland.  The  Cherokees  having  com 
menced  hostilities  upon  the  frontier  inhabitants  about  the  com 
mencement  of  the  year  1781,  Colonel  Campbell,  of  Virginia,  with 
seven  hundred  mounted  riflemen,  invaded  their  country  and  defeated 
them.  At  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  settlers  moved  in  in  large 
numbers  from  Virginia,  North  and  South  Carolina,  and  Georgia. 
Nashville  was  laid  out  in  the  summer  of  1784,  and  named  from 
General  Francis  Nash,  who  fell  at  Brandy  wine. 

The  people  of  this  district,  in  common  with  those  of  Kentucky, 
and  on  the  upper  Ohio,  were  deeply  interested  in  the  navigation  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  under  the  tempting  offers  of  the  Spanish  gov 
ernor  of  Louisiana,  many  were  lured  to  emigrate  to  West  Florida 
and  become  subjects  of  the  Spanish  king. 

North  Carolina  having  ceded  her  claims  to  her  western  lands, 
Congress,  in  May,  1790,  erected  this  into  a  territory  under  the 
name  of  the  u  Southwestern  Territory,""  according  to  the  provi 
sions  of  .the  ordinance  of  1787,  excepting  the  article  prohibiting 
slavery. 

The  territorial  government  was  organized  with  a  legislature,  a 
legislative  council,  with  William  Blount  as  their  first  Governor. 
Knoxville  was  made  the  seat  of  government.  A  fort  was  erected 
to  intimidate  the  Indians,  by  the  United  States,  in  the  Indian 
country,  on  the  site  of  Kingston.  From  this  period  until  the  final 
overthrow  of  the  northwestern  Indians  by  Wayne,  this  territory 
suffered  from  the  hostilities  of  the  Creeks  and  Cherokees,  who  were 
secretly  supplied  with  arms  and  ammunition  by  the  Spanish  agents, 
with  the  hope  that  they  would  exterminate  the  Cumberland  settle 
ments.  In  1795  the  territory  contained  a  population  of  seventy- 
seven  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty-two,  of  whom  about  ten 
thousand  were  slaves.  On  the  first  of  June,  1796,  it  was  admitted 
into  the  Union  as  the  State  of  Tennessee. 

By  the  treaty  of  October  27,  1795,  with  Spain,  the  old  sore,  the 
right  of  navigating  the  Mississippi,  was  closed,  that  power  ceding 
to  the  United  States  the  right  of  free  navigation. 

The  Territory  of  Mississippi  was  organized  in  1798,  and  Win- 
throp  Sargeant  appointed  Governor.  By  the  ordinance  of  1787, 
the  people  of  the  Northwest  Territory  were  entitled  to  elect  Repre- 


OUTLINE    HISTORY.  29 

sentatives  to  a  Territorial  Legislature  whenever  it  contained  5000 
males  of  full  age.  Before  the  close  of  the  year  1798  the  Territory 
had  this  number,  and  members  to  a  Territorial  Legislature  we  e 
soon  after  chosen.  In  the  year  1799,  William  H. "Harrison  was 
chosen  the  first  delegate  to  Congress  from  the  North  west  Territory. 
In  1800,  the  Territory  of  Indiana  was  formed,  and  the  next  year, 
William  H.  Harrison  appointed  Governor.  This  Territory  com 
prised  the  present  States  of  Indiana,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and 
Michigan,  which  vast  country  then  had  less  than  6000  whites,  and 
those  mainly  of  French  origin.  On  the  30th  of  April,  1802,  Con 
gress  passed  an  act  authorizing  a  convention  to  form  a  constitution 
for  Ohio.  This  convention  met  at  Chillicothe  in  the  succeeding 
November,  and  on  the  29th  of  that  month,  a  constitution  of  State 
Government  was  ratified  and  signed,  by  which  act  Ohio  became 
one  of  the  States  of  the  Federal  Union.  In  October,  1802,  the 
whole  western  country  was  thrown  into  a  ferment  by  the  suspension 
of  the  American  right  of  depositing  goods  and  produce  at  New 
Orleans,  guaranteed  by  the  treaty  of  1795,  with  Spain.  The  whole 
commerce  of  the  West  was  struck  at  in  a  vital  point,  and  the  treaty 
evidently  violated.  On  the  25th  of  February,  1803,  the  port  was 
opened  to  provisions,  on  paying  a  duty,  and  in  April  following,  by 
orders  of  the  King  of  Spain,  the  right  of  deposit  was  restored. 

After  the  treaty  of  1763,  Louisiana  remained  in  possession  of 
Spain  until  1803,  when  it  was  again  restored  to  France  by  the 
terms  of  a  secret  article  in  the  treaty  of  St.  Ildefonso  concluded 
with  Spain  in  1800.  France  held  but  brief  possession ;  on  the  30th 
of  April  she  sold  her  claim  to  the  United  States  for  the  considera 
tion  of  fifteen  millions  of  dollars.  On  the  20th  of  the  succeeding 
December,  General  Wilkinson  and  Claiborne  took  possession  of  the 
country  for  the  United  States,  and  entered  New  Orleans  at  the  head 
of  the  American  troops. 

On  the  llth  of  January,  1805,  Congress  established  the  Terri 
tory  of  Michigan,  and  appointed  William  Hull,  Governor.  This 
same  year  Detroit  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The  town  occupied  only 
about  two  acres,  completely  covered  with  buildings  and  cumbusti- 
ble  materials,  excepting  the  narrow  intervals  of  fourteen  or  fifteen 
feet  used  as  streets  or  lanes,  and  the  whole  was  environed  with  a 
very  strong  and  secure  defense  of  tall  and  solid  pickets. 

At  this  period  the  conspiracy  of  Aaron  Burr  began  to  agitate 
the  western  country.  In  December,  1806,  a  fleet  of  boats  with 
arms,  provisions,  and  ammunition,  belonging  to  the  confederates 
of  Burr,  were  seized  upon  the  Muskingum,  by  agents  of  the  United 
States,  which  proved  a  fatal  blow  to  the  project.  In  1809,  the  Ter 
ritory  of  Illinois  was  formed  from  the  western  part  of  the  Indiana 
Territory,  and  named  from  the  powerful  tribe  which  once  had 
occupied  its  soil. 

The  Indians,  who,  since  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  had  been  at 
peace,  about  the  year  1810,  began  to  commit  aggressions  upon  the 
inhabitants  of  the  West,  under  the  lead ji ship  of  Tecumseh.  The 


30  OUTLINE    HISTORY. 

next  year  they  were  defeated  by  General  Harrison,  at  the  battle  of 
Tippecanoe,  in  Indiana.  This  year  was  also  distinguished  by  the 
voyage  from  Pittsburgh  to  New  Orleans,  of  the  steamboat  ik  New 
Orleans,"  the  first  steamer  ever  launched  upon  the  western  waters. 

In  June,  1812,  the  United  States  declared  war  against  Great 
Britain.  Of  this  war,  the  West  was  the  principal  theater.  Its 
opening  scenes  were  as  gloomy  and  disastrous  to  the  American 
arms  as  its  close  was  brilliant  and  triumphant. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  the  population  of  the  Territories  of  In 
diana,  Illinois,  and  Michigan  was  less  than  50,000.  But  from  that 
time  onward,  the  tide  of  emigration  again  went  forward  with  un 
precedented  rapidity.  On  the  19th  of  April,  1816,  Indiana  was 
admitted  into  the  Union,  and  Illinois  on  the  3d  of  December,  1818. 
The  remainder  of  the  Northwest  Territory,  as  then  organized,  was 
included  in  the  Territory  of  Michigan,  of  which  that  section  west 
of  Lake  Michigan  bore  the  name  ot  the  Huron  District.  This  part 
of  the  West  increased  so  slowly  that,  by  the  census  of  1830,  the 
Territory  of  Miclrgan  contained,  exclusive  of  the  Huron  District, 
but  28,000  souls,  while  that  had  only  a  population  of  3,640.  Em 
igration  began  to  set  in  more  strongly  to  the  Territory  of  Michigan 
in  consequence  of  steam  navigation  having  been  successfully  intro 
duced  upon  the  great  lakes  of  the  West.  The  first  steamboat  upon 
these  immense  inland  seas  was  the  "  Walk-in-the- Water,"  which, 
in  1819,  went  as  far  as  Mackinaw;  yet  it  was  not  until  1826  that  a 
steamer  rode  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  six  years  more  had 
elapsed  ere  one  had  penetrated  as  far  as  Chicago. 

The  year  1832  was  signalized  by  three  important  events  in  the 
history  of  the  West,  viz:  the  first  appearance'  of  the  Asiatic 
Cholera,  the  Great  Flood  in  the  Ohio,  and  the  war  with  Black 
Hawk. 

The  West  has  suffered  serious  drawbacks,  in  its  progress,  from 
inefficient  systems  of  banking.  One  bank  frequently  was  made 
the  basis  of  another,  and  that  of  a  third,  and  so  on  throughout  the 
country.  Some  three  or  four  shrewd  agents  or  directors,  in  estab 
lishing  a  bank,  would  collect  a  few  thousands  in  specie,  that  had 
been  honestly  paid  in,  and  then  make  up  the  remainder  of  the 
capital  with  the  bills  or  stock  from  some  neighboring  bank.  Thus 
so  intimate  was  the  connection  of  each  bank  with  others,  that 
when  one  or  two  gave  way,  they  all  went  down  together  in  one 
common  ruin. 

In  1804,  the  year  preceding  the  purchase  of  Louisiana,  Congress 
formed,  from  part  of  it,  the  "Territory  of  Orleans,"  which  was 
admitted  into  the  Union,  in  1812,  as  the  State  of  Louisiana.  In 
1805,  after  the  Territory  of  Orleans  was  erected,  the  remaining 
part  of  the  purchase  from  the  French  was  formed  into  the  Territory 
of  Louisiana,  of  which  the  old  French  town  of  St.  Louis  was  the 
capital.  This  town,  the  oldest  in  the  Territory,  had  been  founded 
in  1764,  by  M.  Laclede,  agent  for  a  trading  association,  to  whom 
had  been  given,  by  the  French  government  of  Louisiana,  a  mono- 


OUTLINE    HISTORY.  31 

poly  of  the  commerce  in  furs  and  peltries  with  the  Indian  tribes 
of  the  Missouri  and  Upper  Mississippi.  The  population  of  the 
Territory  in  1805  was  trifling,  and  consisted  mainly  of  French 
Creoles  and  traders,  who  were  scattered  along  the  hanks  of  the 
Mississippi  and  the  Arkansas.  Upon  the  admission  of  Louisiana 
as  a  State,  the  name  of  the  Territory  of  Louisiana  was  changed  to 
that  of  Missouri.  From  the  southern  part  of  this,  in  1819,  was 
erected  the  Territory  of  Arkansas,  which  then  contained  but  a  few 
thousand  inhabitants,  who  were  mainly  in  detached  settlements  on 
the  Mississippi  and  on  the  Arkansas,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  "Post 
of  Arkansas."  The  first  settlement  in  Arkansas  was  made  on  the 
Arkansas  River,  about  the  year  1723,  upon  the  grant  of  the  noto 
rious  John  Law;  but,  being  unsuccessful,  was  soon  after  aban 
doned.  In  18*20,  Missouri  was  admitted  into  the  Union,  and 
Arkansas  in  1836. 

Michigan  was  admitted  as  a  State  in  1837.  The  Huron  District 
was  organized  as  the  Wisconsin  Territory  in  18^6,  and  was  admitted 
into  the  Union  as  a  State  in  1848.  The  first  settlement  in  Wis 
consin  was  made  in  1665,  when  Father  Claude  Allouez  established 
a  mission  at  La  Pointe,  at  the  western  end  of  Lake  Superior. 
Four  years  after,  a  mission  was  permanently  established  at  Green 
Bay;  and,  eventually,  the  French  also  established  themselves  at 
Prairie  du  Chien.  In  1819,  an  expedition,  under  Governor  Cass, 
explored  the  Territory,  and  found  it  to  be  little  more  than  the 
abode  of  a  few  Indian  traders,  scattered  here  and  there.  About 
this  time,  the  Government  established  military  posts  at  Green  Bay 
and  Prairie  du  Chien.  About  the  year  1825,  some  farmers  settled 
in  the  vicinity  of  Galena,  which  had  then  become  a  noted  mineral 
region.  Immediately  after  the  war  with  Black  Hawk,  emigrants 
flowed  in  from  New  York,  Ohio,  and  Michigan,  and  the  flourishing 
towns  of  Milwaukie,  Sheboygan,  Racine,  and  Southport  were  laid 
out  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Michigan.  At  the  conclusion  of  the 
same  war,  the  lands  west  of  the  Mississippi  were  thrown  open  to 
emigrants,  who  commenced  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort 
Madison  and  Burlington  in  1833.  Dubuque  had  long  before  been 
a  trading  post,  and  was  the  first  settlement  in  Iowa.  It  derived  its 
name  from  Julian  Dubuque,  an  enterprising  French  Canadian, 
who,  in  1788,  obtained  a  grant  of  one  hundred  and  forty  thousand 
acres  from  the  Indians,  upon  which  he  resided  until  his  death  in 
1810,  when  he  had  accumulated  immense  wealth  by  lead-mining 
and  trading.  Jn  June,  1838,  Iowa  was  erected  into  a  Territory, 
and  in  1846  became  a  State. 

In  1849,  Minnesota  Territory  was  organized;  it  then  contained 
a  little  less  than  five  thousand  souls.  The  first  American  estab 
lishment  in  the  Territory  was  Fort  Snelling,  at  the  mouth  of  St. 
Peter's  or  Minnesota  River,  which  was  founded  in  1819.  The 
French,  and  afterward  the  English,  occupied  this  country  with 
their  fur-trading  forts.  Pembina,  on  the  northern  boundary,  is  the 
oldest  village,  having  been  established  in  1812  by  Lord  Selkirk,  a 


32  OUTLINE   HISTORY. 

Scottish  nobleman,  under-  a  grant  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com 
pany. 

There  were  not  until  near  the  close  of  the  war  with  Mexico,  any 
American  settlements  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  continent.  At  the 
beginning  of  the  century  not  a  single  white  man  had  ever  been  known 
to  have  crossed  the  continent  north  of  the  latitude  of  St.  Louis. 
The  geography  of  the  greater  part  of  the  Pacific  slope  was  almost 
•wholly  unknown,  until  the  explorations  of  Fremont,  between  the 
years  1842  and  1848.  That  region  had  formerly  been  penetrated 
only  by  fur  traders  and  trappers.  The  Mexican  war  of  1846-'48, 
gave  to  the  Union  an  immense  tract  of  country,  the  large  original 
provinces  of  Upper  California  and  New  Mexico.  The  discovery  of 
gold  in  Upper  California  in  1848,  at  once  directed  emigration  to  that 
part  of  the  continent.  From  that  period  settlements  were  rapid  and 
territories  formed  in  quick  succession.  In  1848,  the  Mormons,  ex 
pelled  from  Missouri,  settled  in  Utah,  which  was  erected  into  a  ter 
ritory  in  1850.  In  1848,  Oregon  became  an  organized  territory,  and 
California,  then  conquered  from  Mexico,  in  1850,  was  admitted  as  a 
State,  and  Oregon  in  1859.  The  emigration  to  California  was  im 
mense  for  the  first  few  years :  in  the  years  1852  and  1853,  her  pro 
duct  in  gold  reached  the  enormous  value  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
millions  of  dollars. 

In  1854,  after  the  first  excitement  in  regard  to  California  had 
somewhat  subsided,  the  territories  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  were 
organized.  Kansas  became  for  a  time  a  favorite  country  for  emi 
grants  ;  and  at  last  a  bloody  arena  between  the  free  soil  and  pro- 
slavery  parties  for  mastery.  The  overwhelming  preponderance  of 
the  former,  resulted  in  its  success,  and  Kansas  was  admitted  as  a 
free  State  in  1861. 

The  formation  of  territories  from  the  close  of  the  Mexican  War  to 
the  close  of  the  Southern  Rebellion,  was  rapid  without  precedent,  as 
the  following  summary  exhibits.  This  was  consequent  upon  the  dis 
covery  of  vast  mineral  wealth  in  the  mountain  country : 

CALIFORNIA,  ceded  by  treaty  with  Mexico  in  1848;  admitted  as  a  STATE  in 
1850. 

NEW  MEXICO,  ceded  by  treaty  with  Mexico,  and  organized  as  a  Territory  in 
1848. 

MINNESOTA,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1849;  admitted  as  a  STATE  in  1858. 

UTAH,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1850. 

ARIZONA,  purchased  of  Mexico  in  1854;  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1863. 

OREGON,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1848;  admitted  as  a  STATE  in  1859. 

WASHINGTON,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1853. 

KANSAS,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1854;  admitted  as  a  STATE  in  1861. 

NEBRASKA,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1854. 

NEVADA,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1861 ;  admitted  as  a  STATE  in  1864. 

DACOTAH,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1861. 

COLORADO,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1861. 

IDAHO,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1863. 

MONTANA,  organized  as  a  Territory  in  1864. 


WEST    VIRGINIA. 


ARMS  OP  WEST  VIRGINIA. 


WEST  VIRGINIA  owes  her  existence  to  the  Great  Kebellion  ;  or  rather 
to  the  patriotism  of  her  people,  who,  when  the  mother  State,  Virginia, 

plunged  into  the  vortex  of  seces 
sion,  resolved  to  stand  by  the  Union. 
The  wisdom  of  their  loyalty  has 
been  signally  shown  by  its  saving 
them  from  the  sore  desolation  that 
fell  upon  most  parts  of  the  Old  Do 
minion. 

The  seal  of  the  state  is  remarka 
bly  appropriate.  It  has  the  motto, 
"Montani  semper  liberi" — mountain 
eers  always  free.  In  the  center  is  a 
rock,  with  ivy,  emblematic  of  sta 
bility  and  continuance;  the  face 
of  the  rock  bears  the  inscription, 
"June  20,  1863,"  the  date  of  found 
ation,  as  if  "graved  with  a  pen  of 
iron  in  the  rock  forever."  On  the 
right  stands  a  farmer  clothed  in  the 

Montani  senper  ^'-Mountaineers  always  free.     traditional  hunting-shirt  peculiar  to 

this  region ;  his  right  arm  resting  on  the  plow  handles,  and  his  left 
supporting  a  woodman's  ax — indicating  that  while  the  territory  is  par 
tially  cultivated  it  is  still  in  process  of  being  cleared  of  the  original 
forest.  At  his  right  is  a  sheaf  of  wheat  and  corn  growing.  On  the  left 
of  the  rock  stands  a  miner,  indicated  by  a  pickax  on  his  shoulder, 
with  barrels  and  lumps  of  mineral  at  his  feet.  On  his  left  is  an  anvil 
partly  seen,  on  which  rests  a  sledge  hammer,  typical  of  the  mechanic 
arts — the  whole  indicating  the  principal  pursuits  and  resources  of  the 
state.  In  front  of  the  rocks  and  figures,  as  if  just  laid  down  by  the 
latter,  and  ready  to  be  resumed  at  a  moment's  notice,  are  two  hunter's 
rifles,  crossed  and  surmounted  at  the  place  of  contact  by  the  Phrygian 
cap,  or  cap  of  Liberty — indicating  that  the  freedom  and  independence 
of  the  state  were  won  and  will  be  maintained  by  arms. 

In  the  spring  of  1861,  when  the  question  of  secession  was  submitted 
to  the  people,  those  of  Eastern  Virginia  voted  almost  unanimously  in 
its  favor,  but  in  the  northwestern  counties  quite  as  strongly  against  it. 
In  fact,  the  desire  for  a  separate  state  government  had  for  a  quarter 
of  a  century  prevailed  in  this  section,  where  the  slaveholding  interest 
was  slight,  and  the  habits  of  the  people  diverse.  The  reasons  for  this 
3  (33) 


34  WEST  VIRGINIA 

were,  that  they  were  in  a  measure  cut  off  from  intercourse  with  East 
ern  Virginia  by  chains  of  mountains,  and  that  state  legislation  had 
been  unfavorable  to  the  development  of  their  resources.  The  break 
ing  out  of  the  rebellion  was  a  favorable  moment  to  initiate  measures 
for  the  accomplishment  of  this  long-desired  separation.  As  the  move 
ment  was  one  of  grave  importance,  we  must  give  it  more  than  a  pass 
ing  notice,  from  a  pen  familiar  with  the  subject. 

"It  has  passed  into  history,  that  for  many  years,  while  the  western 
counties  of  Virginia  had  the  preponderance  of  white  population  and 
taxable  property,  the  eastern  counties  controlled  the  legislation  of  the 
•state,  by  maintaining  an  iniquitous  basis  of  representation.  It  is 
enough  to  say,  that  the  western  counties,  with  few  slaves,  were  a  mere 
dependency  of  the  eastern,  with  many  slaves;  and  the  many  revenues 
of  the  state  were  expended  for  the  benefit  mainly  of  the  tide-water  re 
gion,  while  the  west  paid  an  unjust  proportion  of  the  taxes.  This  was 
always  a  cause  of  dissatisfaction.  Besides,  there  was  no  homogeniety 
of  population  or  interest,  and  the  Alleghany  Mountains  were  a  natu 
ral  barrier  to  commercial  and  social  intercourse.  There  were  much 
closer  relations  in  these  respects  with  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania,  than 
with  the  tide-water  region,  growing  as  well  out  of  the  substantial  sim 
ilarity  of  society,  as  the  short-sighted  policy  of  having  no  great  public 
improvement  in  the  direction  of  Richmond.  The  construction  of  the 
Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad,  and  its  connections,  intensified  the  isolation 
of  the  west  from  the  rest  of  the  state. 

"When  the  ordinance  of  secession  was  submitted  to  the  people,  the 
western  counties,  with  great  unanimity,  voted  against  it.  This  was 
on  the  23d  of  May,  1861.  The  traitors  never  waited  the  result  of  the 
popular  vote,  for  as  soon  as  the  ordinance  passed  the  convention,  Vir 
ginia  was  practically  hitched  on  to  the  Confederacy;  and  while  at 
Richmond  the  state  authorities  were  busy  in  the  military  seizure  of 
the  state,  the  people  of  Virginia,  who  were  still  loyal,  met  at  Wheeling 
immediately  alter  the  vote  on  the  ordinance  and  called  a  convention, 
the  members  of  which  should  be  duly  elected,  to  assemble  at  that  city 
on  the  llth  of  June.  The  loyal  people  of  the  whole  state  were  invited 
to  join  in  this  movement.  There  was  nothing  in  the  state  constitu 
tion  against  it,  on  the  contrary,  it  provided  for  it  by  just  this  method. 
There  happened  to  be,  also,  a  notable  precedent  for  this  action,  in  the 
history  of  the  state.  In  1774,  Lord  Dunmore,  the  colonial  governor 
of  Virginia,  dissolved  the  house  of  burgesses ;  and  for  the  purpose  of 
preventing  legislation  in  any  event,  retired  with  his  council  on  board 
a  British  man-of-war.  The  assembly  being  thus  deprived  of  a  gov 
ernment,  met  together  in  convention,  as  private  citizens,  and  assumed 
the  powers  of  the  state.  They  issued  an  invitation,  without  any  leg 
islative  authority,  for  the  several  counties  or  districts  to  send  delegates 
to  a  convention.  There  was  no  legal  or  authorized  act  calling  this 
convention,  or  for  the  choice  of  delegates;  but  it  was  the  spontaneous 
act  of  the  people,  who  were  in  favor  of  a  free  government.  The  con 
vention  met  in  1775,  and  declared  'the  necessity  of  immediately  put 
ting  the  country  in  a  posture  of  defense,  for  the  better  protection  of 
our  lives,  liberties  and  property.'  And  after  enumerating  the  acts  by 
which  the  colonial  authorities  had  subverted  government,  asserted 
that  'we  are  driven  to  the  necessity  of  supplying  the  present  want  of 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  0, 

00 

government,  by  appointing  proper  guardians  of  the  lives  and  liberties 
of  our  country.'  And  thereupon  they  elected  state  officers  and  re 
stored  the  government. 

"Mark,  these  Virginians,  when  they  restored  the  government  thus 
abandoned,  did  not  proclaim  revolution  or  secession  from  Great 
Britain;  on  the  contrary,  they  said:  'Lest  our  views  be  misrepresented 
or  misunderstood,  we  publicly  and  solemnly  declare  before  God  and 
the  world  that  we  do  bear  true  faith  and  allegiance  to  his  majesty 
King  George  the  Third,  as  our  lawful  and  rightful  king.' 

"Accordingly,  on  the  llth  of  June,  1861,  the  convention  assembled 
there  being  quite  a  number  of  delegates  from  the  eastern  counties! 
The  first  ordinance,  after  reciting  the  grievances  of  the  people,  sol 
emnly  declares:  'That  the  preservation  of  their  dearest  rights'  and 
liberties,  and  their  security  in  person  and  property,  imperatively  de 
mand  the  reorganization  of  the  government;  and  that  all  acts  of  the 
convention  and  executive  (at  Richmond)  tending  to  separate  this 
state  from  the  United  States,  or  to  levy  and  carry  on  war  against  them, 
are  without  authority  and  void;  and  that  the  offices  of  all  who  adhere 
to  the  said  convention  and  executive,  whether  legislative,  executive 
or  judicial,  are  vacated'  They  then  proceeded  to  elect  a  governor  and 
other  state  officers,  who  should  hold  their  offices  until  an  election  could 
he  had;  and  to  mark  the  era  of  reorganization,  they  added  the  words 
'Union  and  Liberty'  to  the  l Sic  semper  tyrannis'  of  the  state  arms. 

"This  was  not  revolution,  for  it  was  a  case  within  the  constitution 
of  the  state.  It  could  not  be  revolution  to  support  the  constitution 
and  laws,  both  of  which  the  Richmond  traitors  had  abrogated.  They 
could  not  be  the  government,  for  they  had  destroyed  it.  That  can  not 
be  revolution  which  upholds  or  sustains  the  supreme  law  of  the  land,  viz: 
the  constitution  of  the  United  States  and  the  laws  in  pursuance  of  it. 

"But  it  is  said,  there  was  only  a  fraction  of  the  people  who  joined 
in  this  movement.  We  answer  in  the  language  of  another:  'Doubtless, 
it  is  desirable  that  a  clear  majority  should  always  speak  in  government; 
but  where  a  state  is  in  insurrection,  and  the  loyal  citizens  are  under  du 
ress,  the  will  of  the  people,  who  are  for  the  constitution  and  the  laws,  is 
the  only  lawful  will  under  the  constitution;  and  that  will  must  be  col 
lected  as  far  as  is  practicable  under  the  external  force.' 

"Immediately  upon  the  election  of  FRANCIS  H.  PIERPONT  as  gov 
ernor,  he  notified  the  president  of  the  United  States,  that  there  existed 
a  treasonable  combination  against  the  constitution  and  laws,  known  as 
'The  Confederate  States  of  America,'  whose  design  was  to  subvert  the 
authority  of  the  United  States  in  Virginia ;  that  an  army  of  the  insur 
gents  was  then  advancing  upon  the  loyal  people  of  the  state  for  the 
purpose  of  bringing  them  under  the  domination  of  the  Confederacy; 
and  that  he  had  not  at  his  command  sufficient  force  to  suppress  the 
insurrection,  and  as  governor  of  Virginia,  requested  national  aid.  This 
he  had  an  undoubted  right  to  do,  if  he  were  governor  of  Virginia,  for 
the  constitution  of  the  United  States  provides  for  the  very  case.  [See 
article  iv,  sec.  4.] 

"Was  he  governor  of  Virginia?  Who  was  to  decide  between  Gov. 
Pierpont,  at  Wheeling,  and  Gov.  Letcher,  at  Richmond?  Which  was 
the  government  of  Virginia,  the  Wheeling  or  the  Richmond? 

"Happily,  the  supreme  court  of  the  United  States  furnished  a  eolu- 


36  WEST  VIRGINIA. 

tion  of  the  question,  and  put  forever  at  rest,  any  doubt  about  the 
legitimacy  of  the  Wheeling  government.  [Luther  v.  Borden,  7  How 
ard  Eep.  p.  1.1  This  is  the  case  growing  out  of  the  celebrated  Dorr 
rebellion  in  .Rhode  Island,  in  1840,  and  involves  the  very  question 
under  consideration.  It  is  useless  to  go  into  the  history  of  the  origin  of 
that  conflict.  There  were  two  governors  and  legislatures  in  that  state 
— the  minority,  or  charter  government,  with  Gov.  King  at  its  head, 
and  the  majority,  or  popular  government,  with  Gov.  Dorr  at  its  head. 
John  Tyler,  a  Virginian,  then  president  of  the  United  States,  decided 
in  favor  of  the  minority  or  charter  government ;  and  in  pursuance  of  a 
request  of  Gov.  King  for  national  aid,  similar  to  that  made  by  Gov. 
Pierpont,  the  president  offered  the  military  and  naval  force  of  the 
United  States  to  Governor  King,  and  the  Dorr  government  thereupon 
succumbed  and  was  disbanded.  The  question  involved  was  carried  to 
the  supreme  court  of  the  United  States,  and  Chief  Justice  Taney  de 
livered  the  opinion  of  the  whole  court.  No  lawyer  can  deny,  that  if 
President  Tyler  had  recognized  the  Dorr  government,  the  supreme 
court  would  have  guided  its  judgment  accordingly.  The  supreme 
court  say : 

"'The  power  of  deciding  whether  the  government  of  the  United 
States  is  bound  to  interfere  (in  case  of  domestic  violence  between  con 
flicting  parties  in  a  state),  is  given  to  the  president  of  the  United  States. 
He  is  to  act  upon  the  application  of  the  legislature  or  of  the  executive, 
and  consequently  he  must  determine  what  body  of  men  constitute  the  legislature, 
and  who  is  the  governor,  before  he  can  act.  The  fact  that  both  parties 
claim  to  be  the  government  can  not  alter  the  case,  for  both  can  not  be 
entitled  to  it.  If  there  be  an  armed  conflict,  it  is  a  case  of  domestic 
violence,  and  one  of  the  parties  must  be  in  insurrection  against  the 
lawful  government;  and  the  president  must  necessarily  decide  which  is 
the  government,  and  which  party  is  unlawfully  arrayed  against  it,  in 
order  to  perform  his  duty.  And  after  the  president  has  acted  and 
called  out  the  militia,  his  decision  can  not  be  reviewed  by  any  legal  tribunal, 
It  is  said  this  power  in  the  president  is  dangerous  to  liberty,  and  may 
be  abused.  All  power  may  be  abused  if  placed  in  unworthy  hands ; 
but  it  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  any  other  hands  in  which  this 
power  could  be  more  safe  and  at  the  same  time  equally  effective.  At 
all  events,  it  is  conferred  upon  him  by  the  constitution  and  laws  of  the 
United  States,  and  must,  therefore,  be  respected  and  enforced  by  its  judicial 
tribunals.' 

"In  one  word,  the  question  between  two  governments  in  a  state, 
under  these  circumstances,  is  not  a  judicial  question  at  all,  but  rests 
solely  with  the  president  under  the  constitution  and  laws;  and  his 
decision  is  final  and  binding,  and  settles  all  claims  between  conflicting 
jurisdictions  in  a  state. 

"President  Lincoln  responded  nobly  to  the  call  of  Gov.  Pierpont, 
and  furnished  the  requisite  aid  to  the  restored  government.  The  battles 
of  Phillipi  and  Rich  Mountain  followed,  and  the  Confederates  were 
driven  out  of  Western  Virginia.  Here,  then,  was  a  definite  and  final 
settlement  of  the  questions  as  to  who  was  governor  of  Virginia,  by  the 
president,  and  no  tribunal  or  authority  can  review  that  decision  or  call 
it  in  question.  The  heads  of  the  executive  departments  have  recog 
nized  the  restored  government — the  secretary  of  war  by  assigning 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  07 

quotas  under  calls  for  volunteers;  the  treasurer  by  payin^  over  to  the 
state,  upon  the  order  of  its  legislature,  her  share  of  the  proceeds  of  the 
sales  of  public  lands,  and  so  on. 

"On  the  20th  of  August,  1861,  the  convention  at  Wheeling  being- 
still  in  session,  provided  for  the  election  of  congressmen,  and  they 
were  received  into  the  lower  house.  They  also  called  the  legislature 
of  Virginia  together  at  Wheeling,  to  consist  of  such  members  as  had 
been  elected  previous  to  the  passage  of  the  ordinance  of  secession,  and 
provided  for  filling  vacancies  if  any  by  election.  And  on  July  9th,  the 
legislature  elected  John  S.  Carlile  and  Waitman  T.  Willey  as  senators 
of  the  United  States,  from  Virginia,  to  supply  the  places  of  E.  M.  T. 
Hunter  and  James  M.  Mason.  These  senators  were  admitted  to  seata 
in  the  senate  of  the  United  States,  and  were  so  recognized  by  both  the 
executive  and  legislative  branches  of  the  federal  government,  so  that 
any  question  as  to  the  rightfulness  of  the  legislature  at  Wheeling  as 
the  legislature  of  Virginia  was  at  an  end. 

"Thus  the  State  of  Virginia,  with  a  governor  and  legislature,  and 
other  state  machinery  in  operation,  recognized  by  all  departments  of 
the  federal  government,  was  fully  adequate  to  the  exercise  of  all  the 
functions  of  a  state,  as  well  then  and  now,  as  at  any  period  of  her 
history. 

"Let  us  now  turn  to  the  constitution  of  the  United  States,  article  iv, 
sec.  3,  which  reads  as  follows :  '  New  states  may  be  admitted  by  the 
congress  into  the  Union ;  but  no  new  state  shall  be  formed  or  erected 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  any  other  state,  nor  any  state  be  formed  by 
the  junction  of  two  or  more  states,  or  parts  of  states,  without  the  con 
sent  of  the  legislatures  of  the  states  concerned,  as  well  as  of  the  con 
gress.' 

"Now  it  is  apparent  that  to  form  a  new  state  out  of  a  part  of  the 
State  of  Virginia,  the  concurrent  consent  of  the  legislature  of  Virginia 
and  of  congress  is  all  that  is  needed  under  the  constitution.  We  have 
shown  that  the  government  at  Wheeling  was  the  government  of  Vir 
ginia,  with  a  duly  constituted  governor,  legislature,  etc.;  and  the  way 
pointed  out  by  the  constitution  is  plain.  Let  us  now  see  whether  the 
necessary  steps  were  taken  as  prescribed  by  the  constitution  of  the 
United  States. 

"On  August  20, 1861,  the  convention  passed  an  ordinance  providing 
for  the  submission  of  the  question  of  the  formation  of  a  new  state  to 
the  people,  and  also  further  the  election  of  delegates  to  a  convention 
to  form  a  constitution  for  the  new  state,  if  the  people  decided  in  favor  of 
it;  and  also  for  the  various  details  of  the  movement.  The  governor 
was  directed  to  lay  before  the  general  assembly,  at  its  next  ensuing 
meeting,  for  their  consent,  the  result,  if  that  result  should  be  favorable 
to  a  new  state,  in  accordance  with  the  constitution  of  the  United  States. 
The  peoples  expressed  themselves  by  an  overwhelming  majority  in 
favor  of  a  new  state.  The  constitutional  convention  for  the  new  state 
met  and  prepared  a  constitution,  which  was  ratified  by  the  people,  and 
the  necessary  officers  for  the  state  government  chosen.  At  the  next 
session  of  the  legislature  of  Virginia,  on  May  13,  1862,  that  body  gave 
its  formal  consent  to  the  formation  of  the  State  of  West  Virginia, 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  Virginia,  and  directed  that  the  act  be 
transmitted  to  their  senators  and  representatives  in  congress,  and  they 


38  WEST  VIRGINIA. 

were  requested  to  use  their  endeavors  to  obtain  the  consent  of  congress 
to  the  admission  of  the  new  state  into  the  Union. 

"At  the  following  session  of  congress,  the  application  was  formally 
made,  first  to  the  senate.  Pending  its  consideration,  an  amendment 
to  the  state  constitution  was  proposed,  providing  for  the  gradual  abo 
lition  of  slavery,  and  also  for  the  submission  of  the  amendment  to  the 
people  of  the  new  state;  and  if  approved  by  them,  the  president  of  the 
United  States  was,  by  proclamation,  to  announce  the  fact,  and  the 
state  should  be  admitted  into  the  Union.  In  this  shape  the  bill  for 
admission  passed  the  senate,  and  afterward  the  house,  and  was  ap 
proved  by  the  president.  The  constitutional  convention  for  the  new 
state  held  an  immediate  session,  approved  the  congressional  amend 
ment,  and  submitted  the  constitution  thus  amended,  to  the  people,  who 
also  approved  it  by  an  overwhelming  majority ;  and  so,  now,  all  that 
was  needed  in  order  to  its  admission  into  the  Union,  was  the  procla 
mation  of  the  president,  which  was  accordingly  issued;  and  on  the 
20th  of  June,  1863,  the  new  member,  with  its  motto,  "Montani  semper 
liberi"  was  born  into  the  family  of  states  in  the  midst  of  the  throes  of 
a  mighty  revolution,  and  cradled  in  storms  more  terrible  and  de 
structive  than  any  that  ever  swept  among  its  mountains,  but  clothed 
in  the  majesty  of  constitutional  right. 

"Until  the  time  fixed  by  act  of  congress,  West  Virginia  was  not  a 
state,  and  the  movement,  therefore,  did  not  interfere  with  the  regular 
and  successful  operation  of  the  government  of  Virginia.  As  soon, 
however,  as  the  time  for  the  inauguration  of  the  new  state  arrived, 
Gov.  Pierpont  and  the  officers  of  the  government  of  Virginia,  in  ac 
cordance  with  an  act  of  the  legislature,  removed  to  Alexandria,  Va., 
where  the  seat  of  government  was,  and  still  is  located;  and  A.  J.  Bore- 
man,  the  first  governor  of  West  Virginia,  was  duly  installed,  and  the 
seat  of  government  temporarily  fixed  at  Wheeling,  until  the  times 
become  more  settled,  so  that  the  capital  of  the  new  state  may  be  located 
nearer  the  geographical  center  of  its  territory. 

"  The  area  of  the  new  state  is  23,000  square  miles — twenty  times  as 
large  as  Rhode  Island,  more  than  ten  times  as  large  as  Delaware,  five 
times  as  large  as  Connecticut,  three  times  as  large  as  Massachusetts, 
more  than  twice  as  large  as  New  Hampshire,  and  more  than  twice  as 
large  as  Maryland — an  area  about  equal  to  the  aggregate  of  Rhode 
Island,  Connecticut,  Delaware,  Massachusetts  and  Vermont. 

"According  to  the  census  of  1860,  it  had  a  white  population  of 
335,000 — a  population  much  greater  than  any  of  the  new  states,  at  the 
time  of  their  admission  into  the  Union,  and  much  greater  than  many 
of  the  old  states. 

"It  is  among  the  most  loyal  of  the  states,  for  she  has  always  filled 
her  quotas  under  all  calls  without  a  draft:  she  furnished  more  than 
20,000  soldiers  for  the  Union,  and  several  thousands  in  excess  of  all 
drafts.  The  revenue  of  the  whole  State  of  Virginia  in  1850  was  only 
$533,000,  while  in  1860  the  forty-eight  counties  composing  the  new 
state  paid  over  $600,000  into  the  state  treasury. 

•'The  new  state  has  a  rich  legacy  committed  to  her  keeping,  and 
has  all  the  elements  to  make  a  great  and  prosperous  commonwealth. 
Lumber,  coal,  iron,  petroleum,  salt,  etc.,  abound,  and  the  fertility  of 
her  soil  is  equal  to  that  of  most  states  in  the  Union.  And  now  that 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  on 

she  is  freed  from  the  incubus  of  slavery,  and  wealth  and  enterprise  are 
beginning  to  develop  her  resources,  she  will  outstrip  many  of  the  more 
favored  states  and  take  her  place  among  the  foremost  common 
wealths." 

The  most  noted  towns  of  the  state  are  Wheeling  and  Parkersburg 
both  of  which  are  on  the  Ohio.  Parkersburg  is  situated  on  the  river  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Little  Kanawha,  a  few  miles  below  Marietta  Ohio 
and  100  below  Wheeling.  It  has  a  connection  with  the  west  by 
the  Cincinnati  &  Marietta  railroad,  and  with  the  east  by  the  North 
western  railroad,  the  southernmost  fork  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  rail 
road.  It  is  a  thriving  town  of  about  7000  inhabitants.  The  valley  of 
the  Little  Kanawha  is  of  growing  importance  from  its  wealth'  in  pe 
troleum:  oil  wells  of  great  richness  are  being  worked.  Just  below 
Parkersburg  is  the  long  celebrated  Blannerhasset's  Island,  so  charm 
ingly  described  by  Wirt  in  his  graceful  oratory  at  the  trial  of  Aaron 
Burr  at  Eicbmond,  half  a  century  ago.  Herman  Blannerhasset  was 
of  wealthy  Irish  parentage  and  born  in  England.  He  married  Miss 
Adeline  Agnew,  a  grand-daughter  of  General  Agnew,  who  was  with 
Wolfe  at  Quebec.  She  was  a  most  elegant  and  accomplished  woman 
and  he  a  refined  and  scholarly  man.  In  1798  he  began  his  improve 
ments  upon  the  island.  In  1805,  Aaron  Burr  landed  on  the  island, 
where  he  was  entertained  with  hospitality  by  the  family. 

Wheeling  is  on  the  east  bank  of  Ohio  River,  and  on  both  sides  of  Wheeling 
creek,  351  miles  from  Richmond,  56  miles  from  Pittsburg,  and  365  above 
Cincinnati.  The  hills  back  of  the  city  come  near  the  river,  so  as  to  leave  but 
a  limited  area  for  building,  so  that  the  place  is  forced  to  extend  along  the 
high  alluvial  bank  for  two  miles.  A  fine  stone  bridge  over  Wheeling  creek 
connects  the  upper  and  lower  portions  of  the  city.  Wheeling  is  the  most 
important  place  on  the  Ohio  River  between  Cincinnati  and  Pittsburg.  It  is 
surrounded  by  bold  hills  containing  inexhaustible  quantities  of  bituminous 
coal,  from  which  the  numerous  manufacturing  establishments  are  supplied  at 
a  small  expense.  The  place  contains  several  iron  foundries,  cotton  mills,  and 
factories  of  various  kinds.  \  large  business  is  done  in  the  building  of  steam 
boats.  Population  1860,  14,000, 

The  National  Road,  irorn  Cumberland  across  the  Alleghany  Mountains  to 
St.  Louis,  passes  through  Wheeling,  and  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad 
terminates  here,  making  this  place  a  great  thoroughfare  of  travel  between  the 
east  and  west.  The  Ohio  River  is  crossed  here  by  a  magnificent  wire  sus 
pension  bridge,  erected  at  a  cost,  of  upward  of  $200,000.  Its  span,  one  of  the 
longest  in  the  world,  measures  1,010  feet.  The  hight  of  the  towers  is  153  feet 
above  low  water  mark,  and  60  above  the  abutments.  The  entire  bridge  is 
supported  by  12  wire  cables,  1,380  feet  in  length  and  4  inches  in  diameter, 
each  composed  of  550  strands.  These  cables  are  laid  in  pairs,  3  pairs  on 
each  side  of  the  flooring. 

In  1769  Col.  Ebenezer  Zane,  his  brothers  Silas  and  Jonathan,  with  some 
others  from  the  south  branch  of  the  Potomac,  visited  the  Ohio  for  the  pur 
pose  of  making  improvements,  and  severally  proceeded  to  select  posi 
tions  for  their  future  residence.  They  chose  for  their  residence  the  site  now 
occupied  by  the  city  of  Wheeling,  and  ha'ving  made  the  requisite  preparations 
returned  to  their  former  homes,  and  brought  out  their  families  the  ensuing 


40 


WEST  VIRGINIA. 


year.  The  Zanes  were  men  of  enterprise,  tempered  with  prudence,  and  di 
rected  by  sound  judgment.  To  the  bravery  and  good  conduct  of  these  three 
brothers,  the  Wheeling  settlement  was  mainly  indebted  for  its  security  and 
preservation  during  the  war  of  the  revolution.  Soon  after  the  settlement  of 
this  place  other  settlements  were  made  at  different  points,  both  above  and  be 
low  Wheeling,  in  the  country  on  Buffalo,  Short  and  Grave  creeks. 

The  name  of  Wheeling  was  originally  Weeling,  which  in  the  Delaware  lan 
guage  signifies  the  place  of  a  head.  At  a  very  early  day,  some  whites  de 
scending  the  Ohio  in  a  boat,  stopped  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  and  were  mur 
dered  by  Indians.  The  savages  cut  off  the  head  of  one  of  their  victims,  and 
placing  it  on  a  pole  with  its  face  toward  the  river,  called  the  spot  Weeling. 


Southern  View  of  Wheeling. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  Wheeling  as  it  is  entered  upon  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad.  The 
steamboat  landing  and  part  of  the  city  are  seen  in  the  central  part.  The  suspension  bridge  crossing  over  to 
Wheeling  Island  on  the  left.  Part  of  the  railroad  depot  is  on  the  right. 

The  most  important  event  in  the  history  of  Wheeling  was  the  siege  of  Fort 
Henry,  at  the  mouth  of  Wheeling  creek,  in  September,  1777.  The  fort  was 
originally  called  Fort  Fincastle,  and  was  a  place  of  refuge  for  the  settlers  in 
Dunmore's  war.  The  name  was  afterward  changed  to  Henry,  in  honor  of 
Patrick  Henry.  The  Indians  who  besieged  the  fort  were  estimated  at  from 
380  to  500  warriors,  led  on  by  the  notorious  Simon  Girty.  The  garrison 
numbered  only  42  fighting  men,  under  the  command  of  Col.  Shepherd.  The 
savages  made  several  attempts  to  force  themselves  into  the  fort;  they  were 
driven  back  by  the  unerring  rifle  shots  of  the  brave  little  garrison.  A  rein 
forcement  of  about  50  men  having  got  into  the  fort,  the  Indians  raised  the 
siege,  having  lost  from  60  to  100  men.  The  loss  of  the  garrison  was  26 
killed,  all  of  whom,  excepting  three  or  four,  fell  in  an  ambuscade  outside  the 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  41 

walls  before  the  attack  on  the  fort  commenced.  The  heroism  of  Elizabeth 
Zane  during  the  siege  is  worthy  of  record.  This  heroine  had  but  recently 
returned  from  school  at  Philadelphia,  and  was  totally  unused  to  such  scenes 
as  were  daily  transpiring  on  the  frontier : 

"The  stpck  of  gunpowder  in  the  fort  having  been  nearly  exhausted,  it  was  de 
termined  to  seize  the  favorable  opportunity  offered  by  the  suspension  of  hostilities 
to  send  for  a  keg  of  gunpowder  which  was  known  to  be  in  the  house  of  Ebenezer 
Zane,  about  sixty  yards  from  the  gate  of  the  fort.  The  person  executing  this  ser 
vice  would  necessarily  expose  himself  to  the  danger  of  being  shot  down  by  the  In 
dians,  who  were  yet  sufficiently  near  to  observe  everything  that  transpired  about 
the  works.  The  colonel  explained  the  matter  to  his  men,  and,  unwilling  to  order 
one  of  them  to  undertake  such  a  desperate  enterprise,  inquired  whether  any  man 
would  volunteer  for  the  service.  Three  or  four  young  men  promptly  stepped  for 
ward  in  obedience  to  the  call.  The  colonel  informed  them  that  the  weak  state  of 
the  garrison  would  not  justify  the  absence  of  more  than  one  man,  and  that  it  was 
for  themselves  to  decide  who  that  person  should  be.  The  eagerness  felt  by  each 
volunteer  to  undertake  the  honorable  mission  prevented  them  from  making  the  ar 
rangement  proposed  by  the  commandant;  and  so  much  time  was  consumed  in  the 
contention  between  them  that  fears  began  to  arise  that  the  Indians  would  renew 
the  attack  before  the  powder  could  be  procured.  At  this  crisis,  a  young  lady,  the 
sister  of  Ebenezer  and  Silas  Zane,  came  forward  and  desired  that  she  might  be 
permitted  to  execute  the  service.  This  proposition  seemed  so  extravagant  that  it 
met  with  a  peremptory  refusal ;  but  she  instantly  renewed  her  petition  in  terms  of 
redoubled  earnestness,  and  all  the  remonstrances  of  the  colonel  and  her  relatives 
failed  to  dissuade  her  from  her  heroic  purpose.  It  was  finally  represented  to  her 
that  either  of  the  young  men,  on  account  of  his  superior  fleetness  and  familiarity 
with  scenes  of  danger,  would  be  more  likely  than  herself  to  do  the  work  success 
fully.  She  replied  that  the  danger  which  would  attend  the  enterprise  was  the 
identical  reason  that  induced  her  to  offer  her  services,  for,  as  the  garrison  was  very 
weak,  no  soldier's  life  should  be  placed  in  needless  jeopardy,  and  that  if  she  were 
to  fall  her  loss  would  not  be  felt.  Her  petition  was  ultimately  granted,  and  the 
gate  opened  for  her  to  pass  out.  The  opening  of  the  gate  arrested  the  attention  of 
several  Indians  who  were  straggling  through  the  village.  It  was  noticed  that  their 
eyes  were  upon  her  as  she  crossed  the  open  space  to  reach  her  brother's  house; 
but  seized,  perhaps,  with  a  sudden  freak  of  clemency,  or  believing  that  a  woman's 
life  was  not  worth  a  load  of  gunpowder,  or  influenced  by  some  other  unexplained 
motive,  they  permitted  her  to  pass  without  molestation.  When  she  reappeared 
with  the  powder  in  her  arms  the  Indians,  suspecting,  no  doubt,  the  character  of  her 
burden,  elevated  their  firelocks  and  discharged  a  volley  at  her  as  she  swiftly  glided 
toward  the  gate,  but  the  balls  all  flew  wide  of  the  mark,  and  the  fearless  girl 
reached  the  fort  in  safety  with  her  prize.  The  pages  of  history  may  furnish  a 
parallel  to  the  noble  exploit  of  Elizabeth  Zane,  but  an  instance  of  greater  self- 
devotion  and  moral  intrepidity  is  not  to  be  found  anywhere." 

Sixteen  miles  above  Wheeling  on  the  river  is  the  thriving  business 
town  of  Wellsburg.  Eight  miles  east  of  this  place  in  a  healthy,  beau 
tiful  site  among  the  hills,  is  the  flourishing  institution  known  as  Beth 
any  College.  It  was  founded  by  Elder  Alexander  Campbell,  and  is 
conducted  under  the  auspices  of  the  Disciples  or  Christians.  Their 
peculiarity  is  that  they  have  no  creed — just  simply  a  belief  in  the 
BIBLE  as. the  sufficient  rule  of  Christian  faith  and  practice;  thus  leav 
ing  its  interpretation  free  to  each  individual  mind. 

Below  Wheeling  eleven  miles,  at  the  village  of  Moundsville,  on  the 
river  flats,  is  the  noted  curiosity  of  this  region,  the  Mammouth  Mound. 
It  is  69  feet  in  height,  and  is  in  full  view  of  the  passing  steamers.— 
An  aged  oak,  cut  down  on  its  summit  some  years  since,  showed  by  its 
concentric  circles  that  it  was  about  500  years  old. 


42  WEST  VIRGINIA. 

Point  Pleasant  is  a  small  village  at  the  junction  of  the  Kanawha  with  the 
Ohio.  It  is  noted  as  the  site  of  the  most  bloody  battle  ever  fought  with  the 
Indians  in  Virginia — the  battle  of  Point  Pleasant — which  took  place  in  Dun- 
more's  war,  Oct.  10,  1774.  The  Virginians,  numbering  1,100  men,  were 
under  the  command  of  Gen.  Andrew  Lewis.  The  Indians  were  under  the 
celebrated  Shawnee  chieftain  Cornstalk,  and  comprised  the  flower  of  the 
Shawnee,  Wyandot,  Delaware,  Mingo  and  Cayuga  tribes.  The  action  lasted 
from  sunrise  until  sunset,  and  was  contested  with  the  most  obstinate  bravery 
on  both  sides.  The  Virginians  at  length  were  victorious,  but  with  a  loss  of 
more  „  tha'n  200  of  their  number  in  killed  and  wounded,  among  whom  were 
some  of  their  most  valued  officers.  This  event  was  made  the  subject  of  a 
rude  song,  which  is  still  preserved  among  the  mountaineers  of  western  Vir 
ginia: 

SONG  ON  THE  SHAWNEE  BATTLE. 

Let  us  mind  the  tenth  day  of  October,  By  which  the  heathen  were  confounded, 

Seventy-four,  which  caused  woe,  Upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio. 

The  Indian  savages  they  did  cover 

The  pleasant  banks  of  the  Ohio.  Col.  Lewis  and  some  noble  captains 

Did  down  to  death  like  Uriah  go, 
The  battle  beginning  in  the  morning,  Alas  !  their  heads  wound  up  in  napkins, 

Throughout  the  day  it  lashed  sore,  Upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio. 

Till  the  evening  shades  were  returning  down 

Upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio.  Kings  lamented  their  mighty  fallen 

Upon  the  mountains  of  Gilboa, 
Judgment  precedes  to  execution,  And  now  we  mourn  for  brave  Hugh  Allen, 

Let  fame  throughout  all  dangers  go,  Far  from  the  banks  of  the  Ohio. 

Our  heroes  fought  with  resolution 

Upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio.  0  bless  the  mighty  King  of  Heaven 

For  all  his  wondrous  works  below, 
Seven  score  lay  dead  and  wounded  Who  hath  to  us  the  victory  given, 

Of  champions  that  did  face  their  foe,  Upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio. 

Ceredo  is  a  new  town  established  by  Eli  Thayer,  of  Massachusetts, 
just  before  the  rebellion,  and  settled  by  New  England  emigrants.  It 
is  on  the  Ohio  river,  about  five  miles  above  the  line  of  West  Virginia 
and  Kentucky.  The  settlement  was  nearly  broken  up  by  the  rebel 
lion.  A  few  miles  above  it  is  Gruyandotte,  which  was  mostly  burnt  in 
the  war. 

CHARLESTON  is  the  most  important  town  in  West  Virginia  excepting 
Wheeling  and  Parkersburg.  It  is  in  the  rich  valley  of  the  Kanawha, 
46  miles  east  of  the  Ohio  river,  and  contains  several  thousand  people. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  this  valley  is  immense  in  salt  and  coal.  In 
coal  alone,  it  has  been  said,  this  valley  could  supply  the  whole  world 
for  fifty  years,  if  it  could  be  had  from  no  other  source.  The  Kanawha 
salt  works  commence  on  the  river  near  Charleston  and  extend  on  both 
sides  for  nearly  fifteen  miles.  Millions  of  bushels  of  salt  are  annually 
manufactured.  The  salt  water  is  drawn  from  wells  bored  in  solid 
rock  from  300  to  500  feet  in  depth.  Bituminous  coal,  which  abounds 
in  the  neighborhood,  is  used  in  the  evaporation  of  the  water. 

LEWISBURG  is  an  important  town  near  the  southeastern  line  of  the 
stale,  on  the  direct  road  from  Charleston  to  Richmond,  about  100 
miles  east  from  the  former,  and  200  west  from  the  latter;  near  it  and  in 
the  same  county,  are  the  Blue  Sulphur  and  White  Sulphur  Springs:  the 
latter,  the  most  celebrated  watering  place  in  the  south:  long  the  fa 
vorite  resort  of  the  wealthy  planters  and  prominent  politicians  of  the 
south. 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  43 

The  situation  of  the  White  Sulphur  Springs  is  charming,  it  is  in  a 
beautiful  valley  environed  by  softly  curving  mountains.  Fifty  acres  . 
or  more  are  occupied  with  lawns  and  walks,  and  the  cabins  and  cot 
tages  for  the  guests,  built,  in  rows  around  the  public  apartments,  the 
dining-room,  the  ball-room,  etc.,  which  give  the  place  quite  a  village 
air.  The  rows  of  cottages  are  variously  named,  as  Alabama  row, 
Louisiana,  Paradise,  Baltimore,  Virginia,  Georgia,  "Wolf  and  Bachelor 
rows,  Broadway,  the  Virginia  lawn,  the  Spring,  the  Colonnade,  and 
other  specialities.  The  cottages  are  built  variously,  of  brick,  wood 
and  logs,  one  story  high.  The  place  is  205  miles  west  from  Bichmond, 
and  242  southwest  of  Washington  City. 

In  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  in  the  rich  valley  of  the  Monon- 
gahela,  are  some  thriving  noted  towns,  as  Morgantown,  Clarksburg, 
Weston,  etc.  At  the  latter  place  is  the  state  Asylum  for  the  Insane. 
The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  railroad  is  doing  much  for  the  development  of 
this  region  of  the  state.  This  great  work  of  engineering  skill  is  here 
given  a  more  than  passing  notice. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  379  miles  in  length,  extending  from 
the  waters  of  the  Chesapeake,  at  Baltimore,  to  those  of  the  Ohio,  at  Wheel 
ing,  is  one  of  the  greatest 
works  of  engineering  skill 
on  the  continent.  This  im 
portant  undertaking  owes  its 
origin  to  the  far-reaching  sa 
gacity  of  Philip  E.  Thomas, 
a  Quaker  merchant  of  Balti 
more,  who  lived  to  see  its 
completion,  although  nearly 
thirty  years  had  elapsed  from 
the  time  of  its  commence 
ment.  At  that  period,  Bal 
timore  city  was  worth  but 
$25,000,000,  yet  it  unhesita 
tingly  embarked  in  an  enter 
prise  which  cost  31,000,000. 
The  first  stone  was  laid  on 
the  4th  of  July,  1828,  by 
the  venerable  Charles  Car 
roll,  of  Carrollton,  who  pro 
nounced  it,  next  to  signing 
the  declaration  of  indepen 
dence,  the  most  important 
act  of  his  life. 

"  This  was  at  a  very  early 
period  in  the  history  of  rail 
ways;  and  during  the  progress  of  the  work,  from  year  to  year,  old  theories  were 
exploded  and  new  principles  introduced,  increasing  in  boldness  and  originality  as 
it  advanced.  Its  annual  reports  went  forth  as  text  books;  its  workshops  were 
practical  lecture  rooms,  and  to  have  worthily  graduated  in  this  school,  is  an  hon 
orable  passport  to  scientific  service  in  any  part  of  the  world  In  its  struggles 
with  unparalleled  difficulties— financial,  physical,  legislative  and  legal— the  gallant 
little  state  of  Maryland  found  men  equal  to  each  emergency  as  it  arose,  and  tne 


TKAY  HUN  VIADUCT,  B.  &  0.  KAILBOAD. 

This  elegant  structure  is  of  cast  iron,  600  feet  in  length,  and 
150  feet  above  the  level  of  the  stream. 


44  WEST  VIRGINIA. 

development  of  so  much  talent  and  high  character  in  various  departments,  should 
not  be  esteemed  the  smallest  benefit  which  the  country  has  derived  from  this  great 
enterprise." 

''The  line  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  traversing  the  Alleghanies,  has 
already  become  somewhat  classic  ground.  The  vicinity  of  Harper's  Ferry,  old 
Port  Frederick,  Cumberland,  and  other  portions  along  the  Potomac  River,  have 
long  been  known  to  the  world  for  their  imposing  scenery,  as  well  as  for  their 
historical  interest.  It  is  beyond  Cumberland,  however,  that  the  grandest  and  most 
effective  views  on  this  route  are  presented.  The  Piedmont  grade;  Oakland,  with 
its  inviting  summer  atmosphere ;  Valley  River  Falls ;  the  Monongahela,  and  other 
attractive  points,  inspire  wonder  in  all  who  witness  them. 

Nor  should  the  grand  scientific  features  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Road  be 
overlooked.  To  say  nothing  of  its  unique  and  most  successfully  planned  grades 
(by  which  an  elevation  of  nearly  three  thousand  feet  above  tide  is  reached),  there 
are  its  numerous  splendid  bridges  of  iron,  and  brick,  and  stone ;  its  massive  build 
ings  of  all  kinds ;  its  solidly  arched  tunnels,  and  numerous  other  features,  devel 
oping  the  greatest  skill  and  ingenuity  upon  the  part  of  the  strong  minds  which 
wrought  them.  The  longest  finished  tunnel  in  America  is  Kingwood  Tunnel,  261 
miles  from  Baltimore  ;  it  is  four  fifths  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  cost  more  than  a 
million  of  dollars ! 

Our  engraving  of  'Tray  Run  Viaduct,'  "  says  Leslie's  Pictorial,  from  which  this 
is  copied,  "  is  from  an  accurate  and  faithful  drawing,  made  upon  the  spot,  by  Mr. 
D.  C.  Hitchcock,  our  artist,  who  has  also  been  engaged  in  taking  numerous  views 
on  this  attractive  route  for  the  London  Illustrated  News.  Appropriate  to  our  no 
tice  of  the  Tray  Run  Viaduct,  we  may  quote  the  following  paragraphs  from  the 
'Book  of  the  Great  Railway  Celebration  of  1857,'  published  by  the  Appletons  : 

Cheat  River  is  a  rapid  mountain  stream,  of  a  dark  coffee  colored  water,  which  is  sup 
posed  to  take  its  hue  from  the  forests  of  laurel,  hemlock  and  black  spruce  in  which  it  has 
its  rise.  Our  road  crossed  the  stream  at  the  foot  of  Cranberry  grade  by  a  viaduct.  This 
is  composed  of  two  noble  spans  of  iron,  roofed  in  on  abutments,  and  a  pier  of  solid  free 
stone  taken  from  a  neighboring  quarry.  Arrived  at  this  point,  we  fairly  entered  the '  Cheat 
River  valley,'  which  presents  by  far  the  grandest  and  most  boldly  picturesque  scenery  to  be 
found  011  the  line  of  this  road,  if  indeed  it  is  not  the  finest  series  of  railroad  views  on  our 
continent.  The  European  travelers  in  our  party  were  as  much  enraptured  by  it  as  were 
those  of  us  who  have  never  visited  the  mountains,  lakes  and  glens  of  Scotia  or  Switzer 
land.  For  several  miles,  we  ran  along  the  steep  mountain  side,  clinging,  as  it  were,  to  the 
gigantic  cliffs,  our  cars  like  great  cages  suspended — though  upon  the  safest  and  most  solid 
of  beds — midway,  as  it  were,  between  heaven  and  earth.  At  one  moment  the  view  was 
confined  to  our  immediate  locality,  hemmed  in  on  every  side,  as  we  were,  by  the  towering 
mountain  spurs.  At  the  next,  a  slight  curve  in  the  road  opened  to  view  fine  stretches  of 
the  deep  valley,  with  the  dark  river  flowing  along  its  bottom,  and  glorious  views  of  the  for 
est-covered  slopes  descending  from  the  peaks  to  the  water's  edge.  Amazed  at  the  grand- 


ex - 


eur  of  the  ever-varying  scenery  of  this  region,  a  French  gentleman  is  said  to  have 
claimed  in  ecstacy,  '  Magnifiquc!  Zcreis  nossing  likczisin  France!'  The  engineering  dif 
ficulties,  overcome  in  the  part  of  the  road  within  the  first  few  miles  west  of  Cheat  River 
bridge,  must  have  been  appalling  ,  but  for  us  the  rough  places  had  been  made  smooth  as 
the  prairie  levels.  After  crossing  this  river  itself,  at  Rowlesburg,  the  next  point  was  to  as 
cend  along  its  banks  the  '  Cheat  River  hill.'  The  ravine  of  Kyer's  run,  a  mile  from  the 
bridge,  76  feet  deep,  was  crossed  by  a  solid  embankment.  Then,  after  bold  cutting  along 
the  steep,  rocky  hill  side,  we  reached  Buckeye  hollow,  which  is  108  feet  below  the  road  level, 
and  finally  came  to  Tray  run,  which  we  crossed  at  a  hight  of  150  feet  above  its  original 
bed  by  a  splendid  viaduct,  600  feet  long,  founded  on  a  massive  base  of  masonry  piled  upon 
the  solid  rock  below.  These  viaducts  are  of  iron — designed  by  Mr.  Albert  Fink,  one  of 
Mr.  Latrobe's  assistants — and  are  exceedingly  graceful,  as  well  as  very  substantial  struc 
tures.  When  we  reached  the  west  end  of  the  great  Tray  run  viaduct,  the  cars  halted,  and 
the  company  alighted  for  a  better  view  of  the  works.  A  walk  of  a  few  feet  brought  us  to 
the  brow  of  the  precipice  overlooking  the  river,  nearly  300  feet  below.  The  view  from  this  spot, 
both  of  the  scenery  and  the  grand  structure  which  so  splendidly  spanned  the  immense  mount 
ain  ravine,  was  truly  inspiring.  From  our  great  elevation  the  stream  appeared  to  be  almost 
beneath  our  feet,  an  illusion  promptly  dispelled  when  the  strongest  and  longest  armed 
among  us  failed  to  throw  a  stone  far  enough  to  drop  in  its  bed.  With  the  entire  train  full 
of  guests,  the  band  also,  alighted  here,  and  taking  position  near  the  cliff,  struck  up  the  pop 
ular  air  of  '  Love  Not,'  in  sweet  harmony  with  the  emotions  inspired  by  the  scene. 


AVERILL'S  EATD. 


THE   TIMES 
THE      REBELLION 

WEST      VIRGINIA. 


WEST  VIRGINIA  early  became  a  theater  of  military  operations. 
These  were  on  a  comparatively  small  scale,  owing  to  the  difficulties  of 
providing  and  sustaining  large  armies.  The  country  as  a  whole  may 
be  defined  as  a  collection  of  lofty  mountains,  with  deep  narrow  valleys 
that  seem  to  exist  merely  to  define  the  mountains.  Along  these  valleys 
are  a  primitive  people,  simple  in  their  wants,  dressing  in  homespun,  and 
living  a  varied  life  of  hunting  and  agriculture.  They  are  scattered  in 
cabins  often  miles  apart,  the  mountains  so  encroaching  upon  them  as 
to  leave  but  mere  threads  of  arable  land.  The  roads  for  want  of  room 
are  much  of  the  way  in  the  beds  of  the  streams,  which  are  swollen  by 
every  heavy  shower  to  raging,  impassable  torrents.  Bridges  do  not 
exist  excepting  at  a  few  points.  Military  operations  are  very  difficult; 
transportation  at  times  being  impossible. 

The  best  part  is  in  the  Northwest,  along  the  valley  of  the  Ohio  and  its 
tributaries.  In  this  section  runs  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Kailroad,  which 
forks  at  Grafton  about  100  miles  from  the  Ohio,  one  branch  termi 
nating  at  Parkersburg  and  the  other  at  Wheeling.  The  secessionists 
at  the  beginning  made  strenuous  exertions  to  hold  this  country, 
and  suppress  its  union  sentiment:  also  to  possess  the  fertile  valley  of 
the  Kanawha,  so  valuable  to  them  for  its  abundant  crops  of  grain  and 
inexhaustible  supplies  of  salt. 

The  first  event  of  the  war  in  West  Yirginia  was  the  surprise  by  two 
union  regiments  under  Cols.  Kelly  and  Lander,  on  the  morning  of  the 
3d  of  June,  1861,  of  some  1500  secession  troops  under  Col.  Porterfield, 
at  Philippi,  a  small  village  on  the  Monongahela  about  20  miles  south 
of  Grafton.  None  of  the  unionists  were  killed;  arid  the  loss  of  the 
secessionists  trifling.  The  surprise  occurred  at  daybreak;  but  it  so 
happened  that  the  secessionists  mostly  made  good  their  escape.  Their 
flight  is  amusingly  described  by  one  present.  Said  he  "Did  you  ever 
drive  a  stake  into  an  ant  hill,  and  watch  the  movements  of  the  panic 
stricken  inhabitants?  It  was  nothing  to  this  flight.  They  didn't  stop 
to  put  on  their  clothes,  much  less  their  shoes;  grabbing  the  first  thing 
they  could  reach,  and  dressing  as  they  ran,  each  turned  his  face  to 
ward  Beverly.  One  fellow  had  cased  one  leg  in  his  unwhisperables, 
when  the  cannister  came  whizzing  about  him. — '  Delay  was  death,1 
and  with  his  shirt  streaming  behind,  and  the  unfilled  leg  of  his  pants 
flopping  and  trailing  after  him,  he  presented  a  most  comical  figure. 

(47) 


48  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Some,  half-naked,  mounted  horses  unbridled,  and  grasping  the  mane, 
urged  them  into  a  sharp  run  by  their  cries  and  vigorous  heel -punches. 
Many  took  to  the  thickets  on  the  hills;  and  among  these  unfortunates 
the  Indianians,  after  the  melee  was  over,  ignorant  of  their  presence, 
discharged  their  minie  rifles,  for  the  purpose  of  clearing  their  guns,  and 
with  fatal  effect." 

Gen.  McClellan,  in  command  of  the  department  of  the  Ohio,  for  politi 
cal  reasons,  refrained  from  crossing  into  Western  Virginia  until  the  27th 
of  May,  after  the  ordinance  of  secession  had  been  voted  upon  in  a  state 
election.  Then  the  western  troops  crossed  over  and  took  a  position  at 
Grafton.  On  the  llth  of  July,  occurred  the  battle  of  Rich  Mountain. 
At  that  period  the  secession  forces  under  Gen.  Garnett,  numbering 
several  thousand  men,  occupied  near  Beverly  two  intrenched  camps — 
Eich  Mountain  and  Laurel  Hill,  a  few  miles  apart.  Garnett  remained 
at  the  last  named,  leaving  Rich  Mountain  under  the  immediate  com 
mand  of  Col.  Pegram.  Rosecrans  was  sent  with  three  regiments  of 
Indiana  and  Ohio  troops  to  make  an  attack  upon  Pegram.  Passing 
around  the  mountain,  through  miles  of  almost  impenetrable  thickets, 
Rosecrans,  assisted  by  Col.  Lander,  made  a  spirited  attack  upon  the 
upper  intrenchment  of  the  enemy,  who  were  routed  and  fled.  McClel- 
lan  was  preparing  to  attack  Garnett,  but  he  fled  also.  On  the  13th 
Col.  Pegram,  who  had  been  wandering  in  the  hills  for  two  days  without 
food,  surrendered  unconditionally.  When  Pegram  advanced  to  hand 
his  sword  to  Major  Laurence  Williams,  each  instantly  recognized  the 
other,  and  both  were  moved  to  tears,  and  turned  away  unable  to  speak 
for  a  few  moments.  They  had  been  classmates  at  West  Point,  and 
had  met  thus  for  the  first  time  in  many  years.  The  number  captured 
amounted  to  about  600.  Pegram  was  killed  late  in  the  war,  at  the 
battle  of  Hatcher's  Run,  before  Richmond,  Feb.  1865. 

The  same  day,  Gen.  Garnett,  with  the  main  body,  on  his  retreat, 
was  overtaken  some  thirty  miles  north  at  Carrick's  Ford  on  Shafer's 
Fork  of  Cheat  River,  by  the  advance  of  Gen.  Morris.  He  attempted 
to  make  a  stand  to  cover  his  retreat:  his  men  became  panic  stricken 
and  fled  before  half  their  number.  Here  Garnett  was  killed  by  a 
sharpshooter.  Not  a  Virginian  was  at  his  side  when  he  fell :  a  young 
lad  from  Georgia  alone  stood  by  him  bravely  to  the  last,  and  when 
Garnett  fell,  he  fell  too.  Garnett  was  about  40  years  of  age,  a  brother- 
in-law  of  Gov.  Wise,  and  in  the  Mexican  war  aid  to  Gen.  Taylor.  He 
was  a  roommate  at  West  Point  of  Major  Love,  of  Gen.  Morris'  staff. 

"But  an  hour  or  two  before,  the  major  had  been  talking  about  his  former  ac 
quaintance  and  friendship  with  Garnett,  and  had  remarked  that  he  would  be  glad  if 
Garnett  could  only  be  taken  prisoner,  that  he  might  be  able  to  see  him  again,  and 
talk  with  him  about  the  government  which  had  educated  and  honored  him.  When 
the  major  reached  the  field,  a  short  time  after  the  flight  of  the  rebels,  he  was  led 
to  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  the  body  of  his  old  roommate  lay  stretched  upon 
the  stones!  Who  shall  blame  him  for  the  manly  tears  he  shed  kneeling  by  that 
traitor  corpse?  The  brave  boy  who  fell  by,  was  taken  to  the  hill  above  the  head- 
(juarters  and  buried  by  our  troops.  At  his  head  they  placed  a  board,  with  the 
inscription:  "Name  unknown.  A  brave  fellow  who  shared  his  general's  fate,  and 
fell  fighting  by  his  side,  while  his  companions  fled." 

The  appearance  of  the  battle  field  is  thus  described  by  an  eye  witness. 

Returning  from  the  bank  where  Garnett  lay,  I  went  up  to  the  bluff  on  which 
the  enemy  had  been  posted.  Around  was  a  sickening  sight.  Along  the  brink  of 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


49 


that  bluff  lay  the  dead,  stiffening  in  their  own  gore,  in  every  contortion  which 
their  death  anguish  had  produced.  Others  were  gasping  in  the  last  agonies,  and 
still  others  were  writhing  with  horrible  but  not  mortal  wounds,  surrounded  by  the 
soldiers  whom  they  really  believed  to  be  about  to  plunge  the  bayonet  to  their 
hearts.  Never  before  had  I  so  ghastly  a  realization  of  the  horrid  nature  of  this 
fraternal  struggle.  These  men  were  all  Americans — men  whom  we  had  once  been 
proud  to  claim  as  countrymen — some  of  them  natives  of  our  own  northern  states. 
One  poor  fellow  was  shot  through  the  bowels.  The  ground  was  soaked  with  his 
blood.  I  stooped  and  asked  him  if  anything  could  be  done  to  make  him  more 
comfortable  ;  he  only  whispered,  u  I'm  so  cold  /"  He  lingered  for  nearly  an  hour, 
in  terrible  agony.  Another — young  and  just  developing  into  vigorous  manhood — 
had  been  shot  through  the  head  by  a  large  minie  ball.  The  skull  was  shockingly 
fractured;  his  brains  were  protruding  from  the  bullet  hole  and  lay  spread  on  the 
grass  by  his  head.  And  he  was  still  living!  I  knelt  by  his  side  and  moistened 
his  lips  with  water  from  my  canteen,  and  an  officer  who  came  up  a  moment  after 
ward  poured  a  few  drops  of  brandy  from  his  pocket  flask  into  his  mouth.  God 
help  us!  what  more  could  we  do?  A  surgeon  rapidly  examined  the  wound,  sadly 
shook  his  head,  saying  it  were  better  for  him  if  he  were  dead  already,  and  passed 
on  to  the  next.  And  there  that  poor  Georgian  lay,  gasping  in  the  untold  and  un 
imaginable  agonies  of  that  fearful  death,  for  more  than  an  hour! 

Near  him  lay  a  Virginian,  shot  through  the  mouth,  and  already  stiffening.  He 
appeared  to  have  been  stooping  when  he  was  shot;  the  ball  struck  the  tip  of  his 
nose,  cutting  that  off,  cut  his  upper  lip,  knocked  out  his  teeth,  passed  through  the 
head  and  came  out  at  the  back  of  the  neck.  The  expression  of  his  ghastly  face 
was  awful  beyond  description.  And  near  him  lay  another,  with  a  ball  through  the 
right  eye,  which  had  passed  out  through  the  back  of  the  head.  The  glassy  eyes 
were  all  open;  some  seemed  still  gasping  with  opened  mouths;  all  were  smeared 
in  their  own  blood,  and  cold  and  clammy  with  the  dews  of  death  upon  them. 

But  why  dwell  on  the  sickening  details  ?  May  I  never  see  another  field  like 
that !  All  around  the  field  lay  men  with  wounds  in  the  leg,  or  arm,  or  face,  groan 
ing  with  pain,  and  trembling  lest  the  barbarous  foes  they  expected  to  find  in  our 
troops,  should  commence  mangling  and  torturing  them  at  once.  Words  can  hardly 
express  their  astonishment,  when  our  men  gently  removed  them  to  a  little  knoll, 
laid  them  all  together,  and  formed  a  circle  of  bayonets  around  them,  to  keep  off 
the  curious  crowd,  till  they  could  be  removed  to  the  hospital,  and  cared  for  by  our 
surgeons. 

There  was  a  terrible  moral  in  that  group  on  the  knoll,  the  dead,  the  dying,  the 
wounded,  protected  by  the  very  men  that  had  been  fighting  and  who  were  as 
ready  then  as  they  had  ever  been  to  defend  by  their  strong  arms  every  right  these 
self-made  enemies  of  theirs  had  ever  enjoyed. 

Every  attention  was  shown  the  enemy's  wounded,  by  our  surgeons.  Limbs  were 
amputated,  wounds  were  dressed  with  the  same  care  with  which  our  own  brave 
volunteers  were  treated.  The  wound  on  the  battle  field  removed  all  differences — 
in  the  hospital  all  were  alike,  the  objects  of  a  common  humanity  that  left  none 
beyond  its  limits. 

Among  the  enemy's  wounded  was  a  young  Massachusetts  boy,  who  had  received 
a  severe  wound  in  the  leg.  He  had  been  visiting  in  the  l^outh,  and  had  been  im 
pressed  into  the  ranks.  As  soon  as  the  battle  began,  he  broke  from  the  rebel  ranks 
and  attempted  to  run  down  the  hill,  and  cross  over  to  our  side.  His  own  lieutenant 
saw  him  in  the  act,  and  shot  him  with  a  revolver !  Listen  to  such  a  tale  as  thatr 
as  I  did,  by  the  side  of  the  sad  young  sufferer,  and  tell  me  if  your  blood  does  not 
boil  warmer  than  ever  before,  as  you  think,  not  of  the  poor  deluded  followers,  but 
of  the  leaders,  who,  for  personal  ambition  and  personal  spite,  began  this  infernal 
rebellion." 

Some  amusing  anecdotes  were  related  of  this  battle. 

Previous  to  the  fight,  before  any  shells  had  been  thrown,  a  Georgian,  who  was 
behind  a  tree  some  distance  fronTone  of  our  men,  called  out  to  him,  "  What  troops 
are  you  ?"     One  soldier,  squinting  around  his  tree,  and  seeing  that  there  was  no 
chance  for  a  shot  at   his   questioner,  replied :  "  Ohio  and   Indiana  volunteers. 
4 


50  IN  WEST  VIRGINIA. 

''Volunteers!  ,"  exclaimed  the  Georgian,  "you  needn't  tell  me  volunteers 

stand  fire  that  way !  "  The  day's  skirmish  presented  some  instances  of  extraor 
dinary  daring.  Perhaps  the  most  astounding  was  that  of  a  fellow  who  undertook 
to  furnish  the  news  to  the  rebels.  One  of  Milroy's  Swamp  Devils,  (as  the  boys 
of  the  Ninth  Indiana  were  called,)  took  a  paper  and  deliberately  walked  up  the 
road  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  on  which  the  enemy  were  placed,  till  he  got  within 
convenient  talking  distance.  Then  asking  them  if  they  wouldn't  like  to  have  the 
news,  and  they  having  answered  in  the  affirmative,  he  unfolded  his  paper  and 
began,  "Great  battle  at  ManassasGap;  rebels  completely  routed ;  one  thousand 
killed,  ten  thousand  wounded,  and  nearly  all  the  rest  taken  prisoners ;  all  traitors 
to  be  hung  and  their  property  confiscated!"  By  this  time  the  bullets  be^an  to 
rain  down  upon  him  rather  thickly,  and  he  beat  a  rapid  retreat  to  a  convenient 
tree,  carefully  folding  up  his  paper  as  he  went,  and  shouting  back  that  if  they  would 
come  over  to  camp,  he  would  give  them  the  balance  of  the  news !  " 

Another  incident  worth  preserving  is  as  follows : 

In  one  of  the  Indiana  regiments  was  a  Methodist  preacher,  said  to  be  one  of  the 
very  best  shots  in  his  regiment.  During  the  battle,  he  was  particularly  conspic 
uous  for  the  zeal  with  which  he  kept  up  a  constant  fire.  The  14th  Ohio  Regiment, 
in  the  thick  of  the  fight,  fired  an  average  of  eleven  rounds  to  every  man,  but  this 
parson  managed  to  get  in  a  great  deal  more  than  that  average.  He  fired  carefully, 
with  perfect  coolness,  and  always  after  a  steady  aim,  and  the  boys  declare  that 
every  time,  as  he  took  down  his  gun,  after  firing  he  added,  "  And  may  the  Lord 
have  mercy  on  your  soul." 

The  loss  in  killed  and  wounded  was  slight.  In  the  result,  the  enemy 
were  for  the  time  being  driven  from  Northwestern  Virginia.  The 
whole  affair  was  a  mere  skirmish  compared  to  an  hundred  later  battles 
of  the  war,  too  inconsequential  to  be  described  in  history.  But  it  was 
the  first  decided  union  victory,  and  gave  great  eclat  to  Gen.  McClellan, 
who,  in  the  enthusiasm  of  the  time,  was  in  consequence  transferred  to 
the  command  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac.  A  second  Napoleon  was 
supposed  to  have  been  found  in  the  person  of  an  ex-captain  of  U.  S. 
engineers. 

The  next  engagement  of  importance  was,  the  battle  of  Carnifex 
Ferry,  which  took  place  on  the  10th  of  September  between  the  union 
forces  under  Gen.  Eosecrans  and  the  rebels  under  Gen.  Floyd,  ex-sec 
retary  of  war.  Floyd's  position  was  a  high  intrenched  camp  on  the 
summit  of  a  mountain  in  the  forest,  on  Gauley  river,  opposite  the 
precise  point  where  the  Meadow  river  falls  into  it.  The  intrench- 
ments  extended  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  his  front,  each  end  resting  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  which  here  by  its  curving  formed  a  kind  of  bow, 
while  the  intrenched  line  answered  for  the  string.  In  the  center  of 
Floyd's  line  was  an  extensive  earthen  mound,  supporting  his  main 
battery:  The  rest  of  his  works  were  of  fallen  timber  exclusively. 
The  position  could  not  well  be  flanked,  and  the  only  resource  was  to 
attack  him  in  front.  Floyd  had  six  regiments  and  16  pieces  of  artillery. 

On  the  last  day  of  August,  Gen.  Eosecrans,  moved  from  Clarksburg, 
to  put  himself  at  the  head  of  his  army,  and  resume  active  operations. 
His  plan  was  to  engage  Floyd  in  the  region  of  the  Kanawha  line. 
After  much  delay,  the  army  moved  from  Birch  river  toward  Summer  - 
ville  on  the  9th.  On  the  10th  he  marched  eighteen  miles,  to  near  the 
intrenched  position  of  the  enemy,  in  front  of  Carnifex  Ferry.  At 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  he  began  the  strong  reconnoissance, 
termed  the  battle  of  Carnifex  Ferry.  This  lasted  until  night  came  on, 
when  the  troops  being  exhausted,  he  drew  them  out  of  the  woods  and 


IN  WEST  VIRGINIA. 


51 


posted  them  in  line  of  battle,  intending  to  storm  the  works  in  the 
morning.  In  the  night  Floyd  having  become  alarmed  at  the  strength 
of  the  attack  upon  him,  silently  fled,  crossed  the  G-auley  and  destroyed 
the  bridge  after  him.  Eosecrans  took  possession  of  the  camp,  captured 
a  few  prisoners,  and  some  arms  and  some  stores.  The  union  loss  was 
114;  among  the  killed  was  the  brave  Col.  Lowe. 

At  the  time  Eosecrans  was  operating  against  Floyd,  Gen.  J.  J.  Eeyn- 
olds  of  Indiana,  was  stationed  with  his  brigade  at  two  fortified  camps 
on  Cheat  Mountain,  one  called  Cheat  Summit,  and  the  other  Elkwater, 
seven  miles  apart  by  a  bridle  path.  The  rebel  G-eneral  E.  E.  Lee, 
desired  to  get  into  their  rear  into  Tygart  Yalley,  and  once  there  with 
a  large  force  he  would  have  advanced  against  Grafton  and  Clarksburg, 
the  principal  military  depots  in  Northwestern  Virginia.  On  the  12th 
inst.  he  marched  up  the  Staunton  pike,  with  about  9000  men  and  from 
8  to  12  pieces  of  artillery.  He  made  attempts  for  several  successive 
days  to  take  these  works  ;  and  was  finally  repulsed  on  the  15th.  Among 
the  rebels  killed  was  Col.  John  A.  Washington,  proprietor  of  Mt.  Ver- 
non.  He  was  shot  by  a  small  scouting  party  while  reconnoitering, 
and  at  the  moment  he  and  his  escort  had  turned  to  flee,  the  latter 
galloping  off  leaving  their  commander  wounded  and  dying  by  the  road 
side. 

"The  party  ran  up  to  the  wounded  man,  and  found  him  partially  raised  upon  one 
hand,  attempting  to  grasp  his  pistol.  As  they  approached,  the  dying  man  smiled 
faintly,  and  said  "How  are  you  boyst  give  me  some  water"  One  of  the  party 
placed  his  canteen  to  the  soldier's  lips,  but  they  were  already  cold  in  death.  A 
litter  was  made,  and  the  body  carried  to  headquarters,  when  an  examination  of  the 
person  was  made.  Judge;  if  you  can,  of  the  surprise  excited,  when  upon  his 
clothing  was  found  the  name  of  John  A.  Washington  !  Four  balls  had  passed 
through  his  body,  two  entering  either  lung  and  anyone  inflicting  a  mortal  wound. 
A  flag  of  truce  was  sent  the  next  morning  to  the  rebels,  offering  to  return  the 
body,  and  all  the  colonel's  effects.  It  was  met  by  Lieut.  Col.  Stark,  of  Louisiana,  who 
was  corning  to  our  camp  to  demand  the  body.  When  told  that  Colonel  Washington 
was  dead.  Col.  Stark  was  very  deeply  affected,  and  for  some  moments  was  unable 
to  speak  at  all.  He  finally  said,  "  Col.  Washington's  temerity  killed  him;  he  waa 
advised  not  to  go  where  he  did,  but  was  on  his  first  expedition,  and  extremely 
anxious  to  distinguish  himself."  Col.  Washington  was  attached  to  the  staff  of 
General  Lee,  as  engineer,  from  which  it  is  judged  Gen.  Lee  in  person  commands 
the  forces  in  our  front.  What  a  sad  commentary  Col.  Washington's  death  affords  us. 
His  illustrious  uncle,  the  founder  of  our  liberties,  the  great  leader  in  the  war  for 
our  independence !  The  degenerate  nephew,  taken  in  arms,  fighting  against  the 
government  his  progenitor  has  called  into  being;  losing  his  life  in  attempting  to 
undo  what  that  noble  man  had  done  !  To  be  shot  in  the  back  was  a  proper  termi 
nation  to  the  career  of  a  relative  who  in  selling  at  an  exorbitant  price  the  Mount 
Vernon  estate  to  a  patriotic  association  of  ladies,  had  speculated  upon  the  bones 
of  George  Washington." 

Guyandotte  a  town  of  about  600  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Vir 
ginia  bank  of  the  Ohio,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Guyandotte,  twelve  or 
fourteen  miles  above  the  Kentucky  line,  was  the  scene  of  tragic  events 
on  Sunday  night  and  on  Monday,  November  10th  and  llth.  The 
people  were  nearly  all  bitter  secessionists.  Col.  Whaley  was  forming 
there  the  Ninth  Virginia  (union)  regiment,  and  had  with  him  on  Sun 
day  about  120  of  his  own  men,  and  35  of  Zeigler's  5th  Virginia  Cavalry. 
A  little  after  sundown  this  small  body  was  surprised  by  a  force  of  several 
hundred  cavalry  under  the  notorious  guerrilla  chief  Jenkins. 


52  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

attack  was  entirely  unexpected,  and  Whaley's  men  were  "  taking  it 
easy,"  some  at  church,  some  sauntering  about,  some  asleep  in  their 
quarters,  and  only  a  camp  guard  out  and  no  pickets.  The  men  rallied 
and  gathered  in  squads,  sheltering  themselves  behind  buildings  and 
making  the  best  fight  possible,  in  which  the  gathering  darkness  in 
creased  their  chances  for  escape.  The  rebels  pursued  the  squads, 
charging  upon  them  around  the  corners,  running  down  individuals, 
killing  some,  wounding  others,  and  taking  prisoners.  After  the  tight 
was  over,  they  hunted  many  from  places  of  concealment.  As  our  men 
ibught  from  sheltering  positions,  and  the  enemy  were  in  the  open 
streets,  the  loss  was  supposed  to  be  nearly  equal  in  killed  and  wounded, 
— from  40  to  50  each.  The  enemy  captured  some  seventy  prisoners. 

The  attack  was  accompanied  by  acts  of  savage  barbarity.  Some  of  the  fleeing 
soldiers  in  attempting  to  cross  the  bridge  over  the  Guyandotte,  were  shot,  and  those 
only  wounded,  while  begging  for  their  lives  were  thrown  into  the  river  to  be 
drowned.  Others  were  dragged  from  their  hiding  places  in  the  town  and  mur 
dered.  Some  poor  fellows  who  had  taken  to  the  river  were  killed  as  they  were 
swimming,  or  when  they  had  crawled  out  on  the  other  bank.  One  John  S  Gar- 
nett,  who  hid  on  that  side  was  busy  at  this  bloody  business.  A  witness  testified 

that  he  heard  them  shout  across  "John!  Ho!  John  Garnett,  shoot  them devils 

coming  out  of  the  water  there,"  and  two  guns  went  off.     "There  is  another  just 

behind  the  tree."     "Oh!  I  have  sunk  that Yankee.''     Soon  another  shot  and 

a  yell,  "I've  got  one  of  the dad's  scalps  and  a  first  rate  Enfield  rifle." 

Early  the  next  morning,  the  rebels  fearing  pursuit,  left  the  town, 
carrying  off  with  them  as  prisoners  some  of  the  union  citizens,  having 
first  taken  and  destroyed  their  goods.  "When  they  left,  twenty  one 
secession  women  all  with  their  secession  aprons  on,  paraded  and  cheered 
the  visitors.  Col.  Zeigler  with  a  few  union  troops  immediately  landed 
from  a  steamer,  arrested  ten  of  the  leading  citizens  as  prisoners.  As 
the  people  had  fired  on  the  troops  from  their  dwellings,  the  soldiers 
set  fire  to  the  houses  of  the  rebels,  which  communicating  to  the  others, 
from  one  half  to  two  thirds  of  all  the  buildings  in  the  place  were 
burnt. 

The  guerrilla  war  in  West  Virginia  was  marked  with  many  horrible 
atrocities  and  thrilling  adventures.  There  was  scarcely  a  county 
which  did  not  contain  more  or  less  secessionists  who  degenerated  into 
assassins.  They  shot  down  in  cold  blood  their  neighbors  in  open  day, 
and  at  night  stealthily  burnt  their  dwellings.  Hundreds  of  these 
villains  were  arrested,  but  for  want  of  positive  evidence  discharged 
on  taking  the  oath  of  allegiance :  when  they  again  renewed  their  acts 
of  savage  barbarity.  So  little  was  this  sacred  obligation  observed,  so 
venomous  did  they  remain,  that  it  had  its  proper  illustration  in  the 
popular  anecdote  of  the  time,  told  of  a  union  soldier  who  had  caught 
a  rattlesnake;  and  asked  his  companion  "what  should  he  do  with  him?  " 
" Swear  him  and  let  him  go"  was  the  instant  response.  A  writer  of 
the  time  well  illustrates  the  fiend-like  spirit  that  was  rife  in  these  par 
agraphs. 

A  thrilling  incident  of  the  war  occurred  to-day,  within  two  miles  of  Parkers- 
burg.  There  lives  in  that  vicinity  a  farmer  named  Smotherton.  He  is  of  the 
genus  termed  "white  trash"  by  the  contrabands;  a  renting  farmer,  who  lives  from 
hand  to  mouth,  ignorant,  quarrelsome  and  reckless.  He  has  quite  a  family. 
Srnotherton  is  a  secessionist,  a  very  bitter  one,  and  he  has  imbued  the  idea  and 
its  spirit  into  all  his  family,  from  his  wife  down  to  his  youngest  child.  The  sue- 


IN  WEST  VIRGINIA.  co 

OO 

cess  of  the  federal  arms  has  only  served  to  embitter  and  enrage  him  and  time  and 
again  he  has  threatened  to  poison  the  water  which  supplies  the  camp  at  this  nlace 
to  destroy  by  fire  the  property  of  his  union  neighbors,  kill  their  cattle  and  muti 
late  their  horses. 

For  several  months  he  has  done  little  else  than  make  threats  of  this  character 
His  wife  was  as  bad  with  her  tongue  as  he  was,  and  even  his  children  have  been 
taught  to  hate  and  curse  those  who  were  for  the  union.  Smotherton  bein*  in 
formed  that  he  would  be  driven  from  the  neighborhood  if  he  did  not  improve  his 
conduct,  replied  that  he  would  not  leave  until  he  had  destroyed  the  property  and 
shed  the  blood  of  some  of  the  union  men.  " They  can't  hurt  me  for  it"  he  con 
tinued,  "kase  the  war's  commenced,  an*  there  haint  no  law."  That  seemed  to  be 
his  firm  belief. 

To-day  two  sons  of  Smotherton,  the  oldest  not  yet  thirteen  years  of  age,  was  out 
in  the  woods  with  a  rifle.  They  came  across  another  lad,  named  King,  about  the 
same  age,  whose  family  is  for  the  union,  and  reside  in  the  same  neighborhood. 
The  young  Smothertons,  following  the  example  of  their  father,  immediately 
called  him  to  account.  Young  King  stood  up  for  the  union,  which  so  enraged  the 
other  two  boys  that  they  threatened  to  shoot  him.  Young  King  then  °boldly 
straightened  himself  up  and  shouted,  "Hurrah  for  the  union."  The  oldest  of  the 
Smotherton  boys— not  yet  thirteen  years  old,  remember— deliberately  raised  his 
rifle,  fired,  and  gave  young  King  a  mortal  wound.  To-night  it  is  said  he  can  not 
survive  until  morning. 

As  soon  as  the  affair  became  known,  a  file  of  soldiers  were  dispatched  from  town 
to  Smotherton's  hut,  which  they  surrounded,  and,  without  resistance,  took  the  old 
man,  his  sons,  and  two  or  three  others  prisoners.  I  need  not  say  that  the  soldiers 
were  disappointed  in  not  meeting  resistance,  for  they  did  not  want  to  bring  in  any 
prisoners.  The  party  was  marched  to  town  surrounded  by  bayonets,  and  com 
mitted  to  prison,  to  await  examination  before  the  military  authorities  to-morrow. 
An  indignant  crowd  followed  them,  and  many  voluntarily  stepped  forward  as 
witnesses.  An  intelligent  country  girl  said  that  she  heard  the  boy  Smotherton 
declare,  several  days  ago,  that  he  would  shoot  the  boy  King  if  he  did  not  stop 
hurraing  for  the  union,  for  he  (Smotherton)  was  a  secessionist,  and  he  wasn't 
agoing  to  stand  it. 

Just  such  people  you  will  find  all  over  Western  Virginia,  and  as  their  cause 
sinks  they  become  more  desperate,  and  endeavor  to  support  it  by  blood  and  crime. 
Until  they  are  treated  and  dealt  with  as  traitors,  the  war  in  Western  Virginia, 
will  not  approximate  a  close.  Our  troops  curse  the  policy  that  has  heretofore 
governed  the  military  authorities,  and  now  they  take  no  prisoners  whenever  they 
can  avoid  it. 

Ret  alii  at  ion,  as  above  stated,  at  last  became  the  common  rule.  The 
union  scouts  learned  to  take  no  prisoners.  One  of  the  best  pictures 
which  gives  the  lights  and  shadows  of  this  border  war,  is  drawn  by 
a  writer  in  the  first  year  of  the  struggle,  an  union  soldier  from  the 
New  England  settlement  of  Ceredo.  He  says : 

In  February  1861,  nine  others  and  myself  were  threatened  with  expulsion  from 
the  " sacred  soil"  of  the  Old  Dominion  for  voting  for  Lincoln:  all  residents  of 
Ceredo.  Tn  May  the  war  against  us  raged  fiercer,  and  some  of  the  marked  ones 
left  for  fear  of  violence.  Some  of  my  neighbors  could  not  leave  if  they  would,  and 
my  courageous  wife  agreed  with  me  that  it  was  better  to  stay,  for  we  might  by 
that  course  do  more  for  the  good  cause  than  in  any  other  way. 

In  June  and  July  the  excitement  was  all  the  time  increasing,  and  by  the  mid 
dle  of  the  latter  month  it  was  publicly  stated  that  the  "  Lincolnites  "  of  Ceredo 
must  leave,  and  notices  to  that  effect  were  sent  to  us.  We  sent  back  word  to 
them  to  "  come  on,"  we  were  prepared  for  them  (but  we  were  not  though),  and 
defied  them. 

For  several  weeks  in  the  middle  of  Summer  we  watched  every  night  for  the 
coming  of  the  indignant  secessionists.  They  looked  for  uc  to  submit  and  take  the 
oath  of  allegiance  to  the  Southern  Confederacy,  or  leave.  It  was  during  this  time 


54  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

of-  fearful  peril — for  we  had  sworn  to  stand  by  each  other  and  resist  to  the  death 
if  necessary — that  everything  else  was  forgotten.  All  business  was  abandoned. 
The  farmers  who  had  been  influenced  by  our  position  and  action,  left  their  crops 
and  joined  us  in  consultation  and  watch.  They  were  made  to  understand  that 
they' were  risking  all  their  property  and  their  lives,  and  perhaps  the  lives  of  their 
families,  by  joining  us.  But  they  pledged  themselves  willing  to  make  the  sacrifice, 
if  need  be,  for  the  sake  of  the  union.  Our  fears  were  reasonably  increased  by 
the  treatment  of  union  men  in  the  adjoining  counties,  and  we  did  not  hope  for 
mercv.  The  enemy  outnumbered  us  who  would  fight  more  than  three  to  one; 
yet  our  bold  stand  and  defiant  declarations  kept  them  back.  For  many  nights  my 
wife  did  not  retire  to  rest  with  any  certainty  that  she  would  not  be  aroused  before 
morning  by  the  torch  and  bullet  of  the  rebel  guerrillas,  now  organized  in  three 
different  places  in  our  own  county,  and  in  large  numbers  in  the  next  and  nearest 
county  above  us.  A  little  band  of  twenty-five,  and  sometimes  thirty  or  more, 
when  our  country  neighbors  came  in,  stood  on  guard  through  many  summer 
nights,  with  such  arras  as  we  could  pick  up,  waiting  to  resist  the  attack  of  three 
hundred  or  more;  but  I  have  no  doubt  we  should  have  made  a  desperate  resist 
ance.  We  had  become  so  exasperated  by  the  infamous  threats  of  the  rebels,  and 
so  incensed  at  their  conduct  toward  union  men  up  the  country,  that  we  all  felt 
that  it  was  our  solemn  duty  to  resist. 

Then  began  the  organization  of  a  regiment.  One  of  the  old  residents  was  urged 
to  take  the  lead  in  this;  we  New  Englanders  pledged  ourselves  to  sustain  him. 
It  was  a  fearful  undertaking,  but  we  had  the  right  kind  of  a  man  to  lead  off,  and 
it  was  successful.  The  rebels  were  of  course  indignant  that  we  should  attempt  to 
have  a  military  force  in  the  "abolition"  village  of  Ceredo. 

It  has  been  one  continued  whirl  of  bustle,  and  excitement  and  panic.  It  seems 
as  though  years  ou  *ht  to  embrace  the  crowded  events  of  the  past  few  months.  In 
fact,  it  does  seem  years  since  last  June.  I  remember  a  few  scenes,  a  few  days, 
and  the  balance  is  one  confused  jumble  of  stirring  incidents,  panics,  fearful  and 
energetic  struggles  to  calm  the  popular  feeling,  painful  and  tedious  night  watch- 
ings,  long  rides  for  reconnoitering,  anxious  consultations,  and  frequent  renewal 
oPpledges.  It  makes  me  shudder  to  think  of  the  danger  we  escaped.  I  can 
hardly  realize  that  we  did  pass  through  all  and  are  yet  safe,  and  that  the  dear 
ones  at  home  were  permitted  to  remain  there,  when  danger  passed  so  near, — and 
particularly  since  we  have  learned  what  nefarious  plots  were  concocted  for  our 
destruction. 

While  the  recruiting  was  going  on  we  were  all  the  time  in  danger,  and  before 
the  regiment  was  half  full  we  had  men  out  constantly  on  the  scout,  either  to  hunt 
rebels  among  the  hills,  or  to  guard  union  men's  pro*perty  away  from  our  camp. 
While  our  men  were  taking  prisoners  and  running  the  scamps  from  hill  to  hiding- 
place,  the  union  men  in  Cabell  county  were  rode  over  rough-shod.  Every  one 
who  had  a  shot-gun  or  rifle,  or  a  grain  of  powder,  was  robbed.  The  robbers  also 
took  beef  and  corn,  and  the  union  men  in  that  county  said  not  a  word,  for  fear  of 
farinir  worse.  The  few  who  dared  to  say  anything  were  driven  away  or  killed. 
Two  others  were  shot,  but  recovered,  and  are  now  in  the  union  army.  One  who 
had  always  maintained  the  right  of  a  Virginian,  clinging  to  the  old  government, 
was  called  to  his  door  one  morning  by  some  of  Jenkins'  cowardly  crew,  and  shot 
dead — four  of  the  assassins  shooting  at  once.  In  our  county,  young  men,  who 
were  out  of  the  reach  of  our  protection  were  forced  into  the  rebel  army.  I  can 
not  describe  with  what  a  high  hand  many  outrages  were  perpetrated — how  heart 
less  and  cruel,  and  with  how  little  sense  of  honor,  these  "chivalrous  southrons" 
committed  numerous  wrongs  upon  loyalists,  upon  their  riirhts,  liberty  and  prop 
erty.  However,  every  prominent  secessionist  in  our  county  has  been  killed  or 
taken  prisoner.  This  is  some  consolation,  though  it  does  not  compensate  for  the 
suffering  of  the  loyal  mon. 

I  entered  the  arrny  as  a  private,  determined  to  be  useful.  I  was  put  where  it 
wa*  thought  I  could  be  of  most  use,  and  have  been  constantly  and  ceaselessly  en 
gaged.  My  duties  have  not  prevented  my  making  some  observations  of  the 
character  and  the  moral  effect  of  our  enterprise. 


IN  WEST  VIRGINIA.  55 

How  curiously— to  me  it  seems— has  this  matter  operated.  The  northerner  and 
Virginian,  it  appeared,  never  could  affiliate.  They  never  did.  It  was  plain  that 
a  Yankee  never  would  be  respected  by  the  Virginian ;  from  the  most  ignorant  to 
the  most  cultivated,  there  was  the  same  inborn  prejudice.  If  common  courtesy 
and  the  studied  politeness  of  the  educated  man  (Virginian)  led  him  into  sociable- 
ness  and  cordiality  of  friendly  intercourse  for  a  time,  he  would  all  at  once  assume 
a  coldness  as  though  he  had  forgot  himself  and  done  wrong  Among  the  ignorant 
it  was  still  more  unpleasant;  but  now  ail  is  changed.  Tuey  now  seem  to  think 
we  are  of  one  nation — we  are  all  brothers — we  should  all  be  united — we  should 
help  each  other — we  should  not  remember  that  one  was  from  a  free  state,  and  an 
other  was  born  in  a  slave  state.  This  is  of  the  union  men.  The  secessionists  hate 
us  more,  if  possible,  and  hate  their  neighbors  who  have  joined  us  still  worse. 
Nothing  else,  it  appears  to  me  could  ever  have  destroyed  this  prejudice.  And  to 
us,  who  have  seen  this  inveterate  prejudice,  this  appears  strange.  Is  it  love  of 
country,  or  is  it  the  danger?  Who  can  tell  ? 

I  have  witnessed  many  scenes  in  this  brief  time  which  1  had  never  expected  to 
see — altogether  a  great  deal  of  the  worst  of  the  "horrors  of  war,"  and  mingled 
with  the  soldiers  who  are  roughest  and  hardest,  and  heard  their  talk  and  their 
nonsense.  Instead  of  feeling  as  though  I  had  been  hardened,  or  had  become 
callous  to  the  suffering  of  men  and  the  cruelties  of  war,  it  seems  as  though  the 
best  feelings  were  sharpened.  I  know  men  who  never  before  appeared  to  have 
any  real  and  natural  love  for  their  families,  manifest  the  best  and  most  encourag 
ing  aspects  of  fraternal  affection — the  most  delicate  and  tender  love  for  friends  and 
families — since  this  war  commenced.  Men.  unconscious  of  the  best  feelings  of 
cultivated  natures,  manifest  that  tender  and  affectionate  regard  for  their  wives 
which  we  expect  to  see  only  among  the  most  enlightene  1  and  harmonious  fami 
lies.  Many  of  the  natives  are  rough  and  uncultivated.  The  war  does  them 
good!  So  it  seems  to  me.  This  is  my  question:  why  is  it?  How  would  you  ex 
plain  it?  How  is  it  possible  that  civil  war,  where  there  is  so  much  of  awful  trag 
edy,  and  wherein  neighbor  will  shoot  neighbor,  to  say  nothing  of  the  lesser 
wrongs  and  outrages,  will  improve  men  generally  ?  While  they  talk  so  glibly  of 
this  one  and  that  one  of^heir  acquaintance  who  are  rebels,  as  deserving  to  be  shot, 
they  seem  to  be  progressing  in  other  respects.  They  become  less  selfish,  more 
confiding,  more  generous,  more  considerate,  and  better  men,  I  think,  altogether. 
And  this  while  we  have  not  the  best  discipline  in  our  regiment,  and  there  is  none 
too  little  whisky  in  camp.  Is  it  love  for  country?  Is  it  that  the  union  is  in 
danger,  or  that  their  families  are  in  danger?  Would  this  last  produce  such  an 
effect?  Or  is  it  that  the  love  for  country  is  such  a  great  and  noble  virtue  that  it 
increases  other  good  qualities  in  men  f  Fes,  this  is  it,  it  can  be  nothing  else. 

The  bitter  contempt  and  hate  with  which  the  union  men  were  held 
throughout  the  south  at  the  outbreak  of  the  rebellion,  found  full  ex 
pression  in  their  secession  papers:  of  which  the  following  extract  pub 
lished  in  the  Jeffersonian  at  Barboursville,  West  Virginia,  in  May  1861, 
is  a  Mr  specimen  : 

Capt.  Roger's  company  of  volunteers  are  making  active  preparations  for  service. 
They  are  a  fine  body  of 'men,  as  true  as  steel,  and  fighting  in  the  cause  of  liberty, 
every  single  man  of  them  is  equal  to  a  doten  of  the  base  hirelings  with  whom  they 
have  to  contend.  In  the  hour  of  battle,  we  doubt  not  but  what  each  man  will 
prove  himself  a  Spartan. 

Should  old  Lincoln  grow  so  insane  as  to  send  100,000  of  his  box-ankled 
Yankees  up  through  this  part  of  Virginia,  our  mountain  boys  will  give  them  a 
warm  reception,  and  will  be  sure  to  save  enough  Yankee  shin  bones  to  make  husk 
ing  pegs  with  which  to  husk  all  our  corn  for  a  hundred  years. 

A  few  months  of  actual  experience  dispelled  some  of  those  pleasant 
delusions  in  regard  to  the  cowardice  of  union  men.  As  the  rebels  were 
soon  driven  by  our  brave  volunteers  from  their  various  camps  at  Phil- 
ippi,  Laurel  Hill,  Cheat  Mountain,  Gauley  river  and  other  points,  they 


56  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

left  behind  in  their  panic  hurry,  bushels  of  private  letters.  These 
revelations  of  the  inner  life  of  the  rebellion,  are  important  contributions 
to  the  history  of  the  times.  They  illustrate  the  ideas  that  prevailed 
among  the  poor  whites  of  the  South,  their  ferocity  against  the  people 
of  the  free  states;  and  an  ignorance  so  profound  as  to  show  how  readily 
they  became  the  willing  instruments  in  the  hands  of  their  aristocracy, 
to  perpetuate  and  increase  their  own  degradation.  The  most  amusing 
of  these  were  the  love  letters  of  which  the  camps  were  full.  Some  of 
the  tender  documents  could  not  be  exceeded  in  ferocity  of  spirit  by  the 
cannibals  of  Fejee.  Mingled  with  good  religious  advice  to  husbands 
by  wives  to  trust'  in  the  Lord  and  offer  up  continued  prayers  for  his 
guidance,  are  blended  requests  to  kill  every  Yankee  they  met,  and 
bring  the  scalps  home  as  trophies  of  the  war.  Little  children  also 
write  to  their  papa's  for  union  scalps,  and  tender  swains  and  love 
stricken  maidens  all  appear  to  revel  in  visions  of  blood.  We  open 
with  one  of  this  description. 

SEWEL  MOUNTAIN  October  3d  1861. 

Dear  Maiss  Sarah  margret  Waup  I  send  you  my  best  love  and  respects  to  you. 
I  am  well  at  this  present  time  in  hoping  these  few  lines  will  find  you  in  the  same 
helth  and  in  the  Same  mind  as  you  was  when  I  gote  the  last  letter.  My  love  is 
round  as  a  ring  that  has  no  end  and  so  is  my  to  you.  I  waunt  you  not  to  foregit 
mea  and  pick  up  eny  of  the  Raleigh  boys  fore  I  am  goun  to  Sleep  in  youres  arms 
if  I  live  and  the  dam  yankee  devels  dont  kill  mea.  1  still  lives  in  hopes  the  devels 
Cant  kill  mea,  I  hope  that  we  will  Jine  handes  again.  I  waunt  you  to  never  have 
eny  thing  to  Saye  to  the  Raleigh  boyes  they  are  all  purty  mutch  unean  [union] 
mean  I  understand  and  that  is  a  poore  Cuntry  I  no.  I  have  got  youres  lik- 
ness  yet  and  kiss  hit  evry  Day  hites  no  ende  that  howe  I  lov  you.  1  think  of  you 
when  I  am  marced  into  the  battle  feal.  I  waunt  you  to  ware  the  Seccions  war 
riben  a  white  peas  of  cloth  around  your  wast;  the  unean  Tunion]  lades  wars  the 
black  beltes  around  their  wast  *  * 

[The  writer  indulges  in  some  thorough  going  profanity  in  reference  to  "  Linken," 
and  expresses  a  few  uncharitable  wishes  respecting  his  future.] 
*  *  mair  raargret  I  would  like  to  see  you  So  we  Could  laff  and  talk  all  about  old 
times.  My  pen  bade  my  ink  is  no  count  and  I  hant  have  but  8  minets  to  rite  to 
you  and  I  have  to  rite  hit  on  my  lapt.  Pleas  exkoose  mea  I  have  rote  6  letteres 
and  reserved  3  from  you  and  the  hole  of  them  thare  was  mise  rote  this  you  see 
rember  mea  if  this  not  except  please  exkooss  mea  and  burn  hitup 

Sarah  margret  Waup 

JAMES  BOLTOX. 

From  another  letter  found  in  Laurel  Hill  camp  we  take  two  lines, 
"i  sa  agen  deer  Melindy  weer  fitin  for  our  liburtis  to  dew  gest  as  we  pleas,  and 
we  will  fite  fur  them  so  long  as  GODDLEMITY  givs  us  breth." 

Here  are  two  letters  from  loving  maidens.  The  first  according  to 
her  own  revelations  had  been  some  time  "on  the  market." 

Mr.  ,  DEAR  SIR:  I  take  the  pleasure  in  writing  you  a  few  lines  to-night. 

And  to  answer  the  kind  &  excepted  note.  We  are  all  well  at  present.  I  think 
that  good  health  &  company  is  all  that  one  should  wish  for.  I  know  that  I  am 
contented  when  I  am  in  your  good  company,  that  I  love  to  be  in  so  much.  But 
I  hope  the  kind  Providence  will  soon  permit  us  to  be  to  gather  soon.  I  wished 
that  all  of  those  Yankees'  heads  was  shot  off  and  piled  up.  Beck  has  formed  a 
good  opinion  of  you.  But  I  think  that  1  like  you  the  best.  She  said  that  she 
wished  that  she  was  married.  She  says  that  she  wants  me  to  put  the  holtar  on 
first.  There  is  no  man  here  I  care  anything  about  now.  I  was  once  12  years 
engaged,  but  am  free  now.  There  was  a  certain  person  told  me  to  keep  myself 
free  from  all  engagements  for  him,  but  did  not  answer,  and  that  was  the  last.  I 


IN  WEST  VIRGINIA.  57 

dreamt  about  you  last  night.  1  thought  I  heard  you  talking  to  papa.  I  tell  you 
1  almost  was  under  John's  control,  but  it  may  be  for  the  best  yet.  If  things  had 
of  went  on,  I  would  of  been  married,  some  time  ago.  These  are  times  to  try 
persons  faith  and  feelings.  I  think  every  one  should  be  candid.  I  know  that  you 
love  me.  That  lore  can  be  returned.  I  am  in  for  anything  that  you  say,  &c.,  &c. 

WYTHS  VILL  VA  August  17th  1861 

DEAR  SUR — it  is  with  grate  plesur  for  me  to  ancer  yore  letter  I  was  glad  to  think 
that  you  thougt  that  much  of  me  amany  A  time  I  think  of  you  all  and  wod  like  to 
see  you  all  but  I  think  that  it  will  be  A  longe  time  be  fore  i  will  see  you  all  but  I 
hoape  that  it  will  not  be  so  longe  you  sade  that  you  had  that  arboviter  that  me  and 
sue  give  you  and  that  likeness  that  miss  sue  Pattison  had  of  yores  she  has  got  it 
yet.  She  sase  that  she  is  A  goante  to  kepe  it.  The  times  air  loancem  hear  know 
sence  you  all  lefte  hear.  II  tell  you  that  campe  Jacksom  lokes  loancem  know.  I 
havente  northen  much  to  rite  to  you  at  this  time  but  I  hoape  that  I  will  have  nore 
to  rite  to  you.  The  nexte  tine  that  you  rite  if  that  ever  will  be  but  I  hoap  that 
you  will  not  forgit  to  rite.  1  woante  you  to  excuse  me  for  not  hav  ritten  sooner 
but  I  havent  not  had  the  chance  but  I  tride  mity  harde  to  ancer  it  sooner  but  I 
cudent.  I  hearde  this  morninge  that  you  all  was  a  goanto  leave  thair  and  I  thaute 
that  I  wod  ancer  it  this  eaven.  I  woante  you  to  tell  mr  yomce  to  rite  to  me. 
Ancer  this  as  soon  as  you  git  this.  I  have  northen  more  to  sa  at  the  present  time 
but  excuse  bad  riten  and  spellinge.  Dearest  frende 

Miss  Mary  D  Me  A 

Here  is  a  third  maidenly  letter  found  at  Carnifex  Ferry  after  Floyd's 
flight  by  some  of  Kosecrans'  soldiers.  Tt  was  in  a  highly  scented  white 
envelope,  and  was  evidently  addressed  to  one  of  the  secession  chaplains, 
that  "  Genuine  itinerant  Methodist  minister."  Miss  Becky  repels  the 
base  charge  that  she  is  given  to  tobacco  chewing. 

Rev.  Wm  H.  Dear,  in  high  esteem  your  very  welcom  letters  arrived  in 

due  time,  which  were  pleastant  visitant,  it  was  truely  gratifying  to  hear  of  the 
abundance  of  good  things  you  are  blessed  with  in  N.  Carolina.  I  recon  Egypt 
will  certainly  divide  with  Canaan. 

Well  Parson  I  suppose  you  are  in  the  Dominion  state  this  year  among  polished 
characters.  I  don't  know  how  you  can  think  of  the  plain  people  in  Fentress 
Tennessee. 

I  would  just  say  as  it  regard  my  useing  tobacco  it  is  altogether  a  false  suppo 
sition.  1  protest  the  use  of  tobacco  in  every  shape  and  form,  so  enough  on  that 

subject.     Dear I  appreciate  you  as  a  genuine  Itinerant  Methodist  minister 

and  will  take  pleasure  in  any  writen  correspondence  with  you.  There  have  been 
revivals  on  this  mission  since  you  left. 

We  expect  Parson at  his  appointment. 

Well  Dearest we  are  many  miles  apart  Oh !  the  deep  between  us  roll  the 

rough  Hills  which  intervene  between  you  &  I.     yet  all  things  are  possible  in  the 
sight  of  the  Lord.     May  the  good  Lord  bless  thee  my  dearest  I  hope  you  will  find 
friendes  that  will  treat  you  kindly.     Oh !  that  this  may  be  a  glorious  Conference 
year.     You  are  still  remembered  by  Rebecca. 
Things  are  going  on  smoothly. 

Mary  is  primping  and  fixing  herself  looking  for  her  beaugh.  Dear  me  !  Clear 
the  way,  move  the  chairs,  &  make  room.  Well  Parson,  I  must  now  close  by  solic 
iting  your  prayers  in  my  behalf.  Respond  to  this  the  first  opportunity. 

Fare-well  this  time    '  REBECCA 

Oh  !  I  remember  how  you  looked 
Kemember  well  your  silvery  Tone 
And  placid  smile  of  sweetest  lore 
Though  Many  hours  hare  rapid  flown. 

Poetical  effusions  in  great  quantities  were  found  "to  fire  the  Southern 
heart."  This  one  is  a  fair  specimen.  It  was  obtained  at  Camp  Gauley, 
among  the  official  papers  of  the  adjutant  of  a  Virginia  regiment : 


58  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Come  all  you  brave  Virginia  boys  if  honor  sease  your  Boards  brave  boys 
With  hearts  both  stout  and  true  And  Muskets  not  A  few 

Come  let  us  go  down  to  the  mason  line  Come  lets  go  down  to  the  Battle  ground 
And  Whip  the  Nothern  crue  And  Whip  the  Nothern  crue 

Old  lincoln  is  there  president  Fight  on  Brave  Boys  with  out  a  doubt 
That  evry  body  knows  On  til  you  gain  the  Field 

And  he  was  elected  by  the  Vote  The  god  of  Battle  he  is  stout 
Of  men  as  black  as  Crows  He  will  caus  our  foas  to  yeald 

A  Malgamation  is  ther  theme  Our  Wives  and  sweet  hearts 

And  that  will  never  do  tell  us  go  and  fight  Just  like  A  man 

Come  lets  go  down  to  the  Battle  ground  And  keep  the  nothe^n  negro  crue 

And  Whip  the  Nothern  Crue  off  of  Virginue  land 

Be  brave  and  Bold  you  Valiant  boys  if  luckey  is  our  doom  Brave  Boys 
and  keep  your  Armors  Bright  in  old  Abe  lincoln  hall 

For  Sothern  Boys  Wonts  nothing  else  On  our  next  Independent  day 
But  Just  the  things  that  Right  We  will  Take  a  Sothern  Ball 

God  made  the  peopl  Black  and  white  and  when  we  come  safe  home  Again 

he  made  the  red  man  to  Our  wives  and  sweet  harts  to 

And  for  to  mix  up  is  not  Right  We  they  will  welcom  us  from  Washington 

lets  Whip  the  Negro  crue  for  they  have  nothing  elce  to  do 

August  the  14  1861. 

The  war  in  West  Yirginia  was  confined  to  small  battles,  skirmishes, 
and  conflicts  with  guerrillas.  One  of  the  most  important  of  the  bat 
tles,  in  its  consequences,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  war,  was  that  of 
Droop  Mountain,  in  the  Greenbrier  country,  Nov.  6,  1863.  In  this  at- 
tion,  tiie  rebels  were  attacked  in  their  works  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  by  Gen.  Averill,  and  routed  with  a  loss  of  400  men. 

The  guerrilla  leaders,  Jenkins  and  Imboden,  were,  fora  time,  active 
and  enterprising,  and  the  union  troops  were  kept  busy  under  Cox, 
Scummon,  Crook,  Averill,  Kelly,  and  other  union  officers,  whose  terror- 
inspiring  raids,  and  the  hardships  endured  by  those  who  took  part  in 
them,  will  show  how  noble  a  part  was  played  in  the  great  drama  of 
the  present  age  by  the  union-loving  sons  of  West  Virginia. 

The  most  noted  of  all  the  raids  was  that  of  Averill  in  the  winter  of 
1863—4.  The  object  of  the  expedition,  which  was  planned  by  Gen. 
Kelly,  was  to  cut  the  Yirginia  and  Tennessee  railroad,  and  so  sever 
the  communication  between  Lee,  in  Yirginia,  and  Longstreet,  in  Ten 
nessee. 

Several  feigned  movements  were  made  in  order  to  mislead  the  enemy,  which 
were  successful.  The  command  of  the  real  expedition  was  given  to  General 
Averill.  On  the  8th  of  December,  he  started  ffom  New  Creek,  near  the  Mary 
land  border,  with  four  mounted  regiments  and  a  battery,  marching  almost  due 
south,  which  brought  him  almost  directly  between  the  confederate  armies  in  Vir 
ginia  and  Tennessee.  On  the  16th,  he  struck  the  line  of  the  railroad  at  Salem, 
and  begun  the  work  of  destruction.  The  telegraphic  wire  was  cut,  three  depots, 
with  a  large  amount  of  stores,  destroyed,  and  the  track  torn  up,  bridges  and  cul 
verts  destroyed  for  a  space  of  15  miles;  this  was  the  work  of  a  few  hours.  The 
enemy  in  the  meantime  had  learned  of  his  position  and  operations,  and  sent  out 
six  separate  commands,  under  their  ablest  generals,  to  intercept  him  on  his  re 
turn.  They  took  possession  of  every  road  through  the  mountains  which  was 
thought  passable.  One  road,  which  crossed  the  tops  of  the  Alleghanies,  and  was 
thought  impracticable,  remained.  By  this,  Averill  made  his  escape,  carrying  off 
all  his  material,  with  the  exception  of  four  caissons,  which  were  burned  in  order 
to  increase  the  teams  of  the  pieces.  His  entire  loss  in  this  raid  was  6  men 
drowned  in  crossing  a  river,  4  wounded,  and  about  90  missing.*  He  captured 
about  200  prisoners,  but  released  all  but  84,  on  account  of  their  inability  to  walk. 
In  his  report,  General  Averill  says,  "  My  march  was  retarded,  occasionally,  by  the 


IN  WEST  VIKGINIA.  59 

tempest  in  the  icy  mountains,  and  the  icy  roads.  I  was  obliged  to  swim  my  com 
mand,  and  drag  my  artillery  with  ropes,  across  Grog's  creek  seven  times  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  My  horses  have  subsisted  entirely  upon  a  very  poor  country,  and  the 
officers  and  men  have  suffered  cold,  hunger,  and  fatigue  with  remarkable  fortitude. 
My  command  has  marched,  climbed,  slid,  and  swam  three  hundred  and fifty-ftce 
miles  in  fourteen  days." 

What  must  have  been  the  sufferings  on  such  a  march,  from  cold, 
fatigue,  and  hunger,  in  the  depths  of  winter,  in  that  dreary,  inhospi 
table,  mountain  wilderness,  surrounded  by  fierce,  deadly  enemies, 
thirsting  for  blood  !  Writes  one  : 

The  nights  were  bitter.  It  rained,  snowed,  and  hailed.  Imagine  the  gathering 
of  clouds,  the  twilight  approaching,  the  wearied  soldier  and  foot-sore  horse  climb 
ing  and  scraping  up  the  steep  mountain  roads ;  then  the  descending  of  the  storm, 
the  water  freezing  as  it  touched  the  ground,  the  line  winding  its  way  up  one  side 
and  down  another,  entering  passages  that  seemed  to  be  the  terminus  of  these 
mountainous  creations,  and  then  emerging  upon  open  lands  but  to  feel  the  fury 
of  the  storm  the  more  severe,  and  he  can  form  but  a  mere  idea  of  what  was  the 
scene  on  this  trying  occasion. 


1 


KENTUCKY. 


KENTUCKY  was  originally  included  in  the  limits  of  Virginia,  and  the  name, 
said  to  signify,  in  the  Indian  tongue,  "The  dark  and  bloody  ground,"  is  in 
dicative  of  her  early  conflicts  with  a 
wily  and  savage  foe.  The  first  ex 
plorer  of  her  territory  of  whom  we  have 
any  very  definite  knowledge  was  Col. 
James  Smith,  who  traveled  westward 
in  1766,  from  Holston  River,  with 
three  men  and  a  mulatto  slave.  The 
beautiful  tract  of  country  near  the 
Kentucky  River  appears  to  have  been 
reserved  by  the  Indians  as  a  hunting 
ground,  and  consequently  none  of  their 
settlements  were  found  there.  The  dark 
forests  and  cane  thickets  of  Kentucky 
separated  the  Creeks,  Cherokees  and 
Catawbas  of  the  south  from  the  hostile 
tribes  of  the  Shawnees,Wyandots  and 
Delawares  of  the  north. 

In  1767,  John  Findley  and  some 
others  made  a  trading  expedition  from  North  Carolina  to  this  region.  In 
1769,  Daniel  Boone  (the  great  pioneer  of  Kentucky),  with  five  others,  among 
whom  was  Findley,  undertook  a  journey  to  explore  the  country.  After  a 
long  fatiguing  march  over  a  mountainous  wilderness,  they  arrived  upon  its 
borders,  and  from  an  eminence  discovered  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Ken 
tucky.  Boone  and  his  companions  built  a  cabin  on  Red  River,  from  whence 
they  made  various  excursions.  Boone  being  out  hunting  one  day,  in  com 
pany  with  a  man  named  Stuart,  was  surprised  and  both  taken  prisoners  by 
the  Indians.  They  eventually  succeeded  in  making  their  escape.  On  re 
gaining  their  camp,  they  found  it  dismantled  and  deserted.  The  fate  of  its 
inmates  was  never  ascertained.  After  an  absence  of  nearly  three  years,  Boone 
returned  to  his  family  in  North  Carolina. 

In  1770,  Col.  James  Knox  led  into  Kentucky  a  party  from  Holston,  on 
Clinch  River,  who  remained  in  the  country  about  the  same  length  of  time 
with  Boone's  party,  and  thoroughly  explored  the  middle  and  southern  part 
of  the  country.  Boone's  party  traversed  the  northern  and  middle  region  with 
gre£.t  attention.  Although  both  parties  were  in  the  country  together,  they 

(61) 


ABMS  OF  KENTUCKY. 


62  KENTUCKY. 

never  met.  When  these  pioneers  returned,  they  gave  glowing  description? 
of  the  fertility  of  the  soil  throughout  the  western  territories  of  Virginia  and 
North  Carolina.  The  lands  given  to  the  Virginia  troops  for  their  services 
in  the  French  war  were  to  be  located  on  the  western  waters,  and  within  two 
years  after  the  return  of  Boone  and  Knox,  surveyors  were  sent  out  for  this 
purpose.  In  1773,  Capt.  Bullitt  led  a  party  down  the  Ohio  to  the  Falls, 
where  a  camp  was  constructed  and  fortified. 

In  the  summer  of  1774,  parties  of  surveyors  and  hunters  followed,  and 
within  the  year  James  Harrod  erected  a  log  cabin  where  Harrodsburg  is  now 
built;  this  soon  grew  into  a  settlement  or  station — the  oldest  in  Kentucky. 

In  1775,  Daniel  Boone  constructed  a  fort,  afterward  called  Boonesborough, 
during  which  time  his  party  was  exposed  to  fierce  attacks  from  the  Indians. 
By  the  middle  of  April,  the  fort  was  completed,  and  soon  after  his  wife  and 
daughters  joined  him  and  resided  in  the  fort — the  first  white  women  who  ever 
stood  on  the  banks  of  Kentucky  River. 

In  1775,  the  renowned  pioneer  Simon  Kenton  erected  a  log  cabin  where 
the  town  of  Washington  now  stands,  in  Mason  county.  In  the  winter  of  this 
year,  Kentucky  was  formed  into  a  county  by  the  legislature  of  Virginia.  In 
the  spring  of  1777,  the  court  of  quarter  sessions  held  its  first  sitting  at  Har 
rodsburg. 

The  years  1780  and  1781  were  distinguished  for  a  great  emigration  to  Ken 
tucky,  and  great  activity  in  land  speculations,  and  by  inroads  of  the  Indians. 
In  1780,  an  expedition  of  Indians  and  British  troops,  under  Col.  Byrd,  threat 
ened  the  settlements  with  destruction.  Cannon  were  employed  against  the 
stockade  forts,  some  of  the  stations  were  destroyed,  and  the  garrisons 
taken. 

In  1781,  every  portion  of  the  country  was  continually  in  alarm,  and  many 
lives  were  lost.  The  most  important  battle  between  the  whites  and  Indians 
ever  fought  on  its  soil  was  on  the  19th  of  August,  1782,  near  the  Blue  Lick 
Springs.  The  celebrated  Col.  Boone  bore  a  prominent  part  in  this  engage 
ment,  in  which  he  lost  a  son.  The  whites  numbered  but  182,  while  the  In 
dians  were  twice  or  thrice  that  number.  From  the  want  of  due  caution  in 
advancing  against  the  enemy,  they  were,  after  a  short  but  severe  action,  routed 
with  the  loss  of  seventy-seven  men  and  twelve  wounded.  Kentucky  being 
the  first  settled  of  the  western  states,  a  large  number  of  expeditions  were  sent 
out  by  her  from  time  to  time  against  the  Indians  in  the  then  wilderness  coun 
try  north  of  the  Ohio;  these  were  mostly  within  the  present  limits  of  Ohio, 
which  thus  became  the  battle  ground  of  Kentucky,  and  was  watered  with 
the  blood  of  her  heroic  pioneers. 

After  the  revolutionary  war,  there  was  a  period  of  political  discontent. 
This  arose  partly  from  the  inefficient  protection  of  Virginia  and  the  old  fed 
eral  congress  against  the  inroads  of  the  Indians,  and  partly  by  a  distrust  lest 
the  general  government  should  surrender  the  right  to  navigate  the  Missis 
sippi  to  its  mouth. 

Kentucky  was  the  central  scene  of  the  imputed  intrigues  of  Aaron  Burr 
and  his  coadjutors  to  form  a  western  republic.     What  the  precise  designs  of  . 
Burr  really  were  has  perhaps  never  been  fully  understood. 

Kentucky  took  an  active  part  in  the  war  of  1812.  After  the  surrender  of 
Hull  at  Detroit,  the  whole  quota  of  the  state,  consisting  of  upward  of  5,000 
volunteers,  was  called  into  active  service.  In  addition  to  these,  a  force  of 
mounted  volunteers  was  raised,  and  at  one  time  upward  of  7,000  Kentuckiaus 
are  said  to  have  been  in  the  field,  and  such  was  the  desire  in  the  state  to 


KENTUCKY  63 

enter  into  the  contest  that  executive  authority  was  obliged  to  interpose  to 
limit  the  number.  At  this  period,  Isaac  Shelby,  a  hero  of  the  revolutionary 
war,  was  governor  of  the  state.  At  the  barbarous  massacre  of  the  River 
Raisin,  and  also  in  the  unfortunate  attempt  to  relieve  Fort  Meigs,  many 
of  her  brave  sons  perished.  In  the  recent  war  with  Mexico,  several 'of  her 
distinguished  citizens  engaged  in  the  contest. 

Kentucky  was  separated  from  Virginia  in  1786,  after  having  had  several 
conventions  at  Danville.  In  1792,  it  was  received  into  the  Union  as  an  in 
dependent  state.  The  first  constitution  was  formed  in  1790,  the  second  in 
1796.  The  financial  revulsion  which  followed  the  second  war  with  Great 
Britain  was  severely  felt  in  Kentucky.  The  violence  of  the  crisis  was  much 
enhanced  in  this  state  by  the  charter  of  forty  independent  banks  in  1818, 
with  a  capital  of  nearly  ten  millions  of  dollars,  which  were  permitted  to  re 
deem  their  notes  with  the  paper  of  the  bank  of  Kentucky.  The  state  was 
soon  flooded  with  the  paper  of  these  banks.  This  soon  depreciated,  and  the 
state  laws  were  such  that  the  creditor  was  obliged  to  receive  his  dues  at  one 
half  their  value.  The  people  of  the  state  became  divided  into  two  parties; 
the  debtor  party,  which  constituted  the  majority,  was  called  the  Relief,  and 
the  creditors  the  Anti -Relief  party.  The  judges  of  the  courts  declared  the 
acts  of  the  legislature,  in  sustaining  the  currency,  unconstitutional.  The  ma 
jority  attempted  to  remove  them  from  office  by  establishing  new  courts;  the 
people  became  divided  into  the  "new  court"  and  "old  court"  parties.  The 
contest  was  finally  decided  in  the  canvass  of  1826,  when  the  old  court  party 
pervailed. 

Kentucky  is  bounded  N.  by  the  Ohio  River,  separating  it  from  the  states  of 
Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois;  E.  by  Virginia;  W.  by  the  Mississippi  River,  sepa 
rating  it  from  Missouri,  and  S.  bv  Tennessee.  It  is  situated  between  36°  30' 
and  39°  10'  N.  Lat.,  and  between  81°  50'  and  89°  20'  W.  Long.  Its  length 
is  about  400  miles,  and  its  breadth  170  miles,  containing  37,680  square 
miles. 

Kentucky  presents  a  great  diversity  of  surface.  In  the  eastern  part,  where 
it  is  bordered  by  the  Cumberland  Mountains,  there  are  numerous  lofty  eleva 
tions;  and  on  the  Ohio  River,  through  nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  state, 
there  is  a  strip  of  hilly  but  fertile  land  from  five  to  twenty  miles  in  breadth. 
On  the  margin  of  the  Ohio  are  numerous  tracts  of  bottom  lands,  which  are 
periodically  overflowed.  Between  the  hilly  country  of  the  more  mountain 
ous  eastern  counties  and  Green  River  is  a  fertile  tract,  frequently  called  the 
"garden  of  the  state."  This  is  in  the  blue  limestone  region,  in  the  midst  of 
which  is  the  beautiful  town  of  Lexington.  The  line  demarking  this  region 
passes  from  the  Ohio  round,  the  heads  of  Licking  and  Kentucky  Rivers, 
Dick's  River,  and  down  Great  Green  River  to  the  Ohio;  and  within  this 
compass  of  above  one  hundred  miles  square  is  found  one  of  the  most  fertile 
and  extraordinary  countries  on  which  the  sun  has  ever  shone.  The  soil  is 
of  a  loose,  deep  and  black  mold,  without  sand — on  first-rate  lands,  from  two 
to  three  feet  deep — and  exceedingly  luxuriant  in  all  its  productions.  It  is 
well  watered  by  fine  springs  and  streams,  and  its  beautiful  climate  and  the 
salubrity  of  the  country  are  unequalled ;  the  winter,  even,  being  seldom  so 
inclement  as  to  render  the  housing  of  cattle  necessary.  In  a  state  of  nature, 
nearly  the  whole  surface  of  this  region  was  covered  with  a  dense  forest  of 
majestic  trees,  and  a  close  undergrowth  of  gigantic  reeds,  forming  what  in 
the  country  are  called  canebrakes.  In  the  southern  part,  however,  on  the 
head  waters  of  Green  River  and  its  tributaries,  is  an  extensive  tract,  thinly 


64 


KENTUCKY. 


wooded,  and  covered  in  summer  with  high  grass  growing  amid  scattered  and 
stunted  oaks.  Struck  with  the  contrast  this  region  presented  to  the  luxu 
riant  forests  of  the  neigboring  districts,  the  first  settlers  gave  the  country  the 
unpromising  name  of  "barrens" 

In  1800,  the  legislature  considering  this  tract  but  of  little  value,  made  a 
gratuitous  grant  of  it  to  actual  settlers.  This  land  proved  to  be  excellent  for 
grain,  and  also  adapted  to  the  raising  of  cattle.  The  whole  state,  below  the 
mountains,  has,  at  the  usual  depth  of  eight  feet,  a  bed  of  limestone,  which  has 
frequent  apertures.  The  rivers  have  generally  worn  deep  channels  in  the 
calcareous  rocks  over  which  they  flow.  There  are  precipices  on  the  Ken 
tucky  River  of  solid  limestone  300  feet  high.  Iron  ore  and  coal  are  widely 
diffused;  coal,  especially,  occupies  an  extensive  field.  Salt  springs  are  nu 
merous,  and  mineral  springs  are  found  in  many  places.  The  great  agricul 
tural  productions  are  hemp,  flax,  Indian  corn,  tobacco,  wheat  and  live  stock. 
More  than  half  of  all  the  hemp  raised  in  the  Union  is  grown  in  Kentucky. 
Population,  in  1790,  73,077 ;  in  1820,  564,317;  in  1840,  779,828;  in  1850, 
982,405  ;  in  1860,  1,185,567,  of  whom  225,490  were  slaves. 


South-eastern  view  of  Frankfort. 

Showing  the  appearance  of  the  place  from  the  railroad.  The  southern  entrance  of  the  tunnel  through 
the  limestone  bluff,  and  under  the  State  Arsenal  and  foot  path  to  the  Cemetery,  is  seen  on  the  right.  The 
Capitol  and  some  other  public  buildings  are  seen  in  the  central  part,  Kentucky  River  in  front  on  the  left. 

FRANKFORT,  the  capital  of  Kentucky,  is  25  miles  N.  "W.  from  Lexington, 
and  53  E.  from  Louisville.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  right  or  north 
east  bank  of  Kentucky  River,  60  miles  above  its  mouth,  in  the  midst  of  the 
wild  and  picturesque  scenery  which  renders  that  stream  so  remarkable.  The 
city  stands  on  an  elevated  plain  between  the  river  and  the  high  bluffs,  which 
rise  150  feet  immediately  behind  the  town.  The  river,  which  is  navigable 
for  steamboats  to  this  place,  is  nearly  100  yards  wide,  and  flows  through  a 
deep  channel  of  limestone  rock.  A  chain  bridge  crosses  the  river  here,  con 
necting  the  city  with  South  Frankfort,  its  suburb.  The  railroad  from  Lex- 


KENTUCKY. 


65 


STATE  HOUSE,  FRANKFOBT. 


ington  passes  into  the  city  in  a  tunnel  through  the  limestone  rock  or  ledge 
on  which  the  State  Arsenal  is  erected.  Frankfort  is  well  built,  and  has  fine 
edifices  of  brick  and  Kentucky  marble.  The  State  House  is  a  handsome  ed 
ifice  of  white  marble.  The 
city  is  well  supplied  with  ex 
cellent  spring  water,  which  is 
conveyed  into  the  town  by 
iron  pipes.  The  State  Peni 
tentiary  is  located  here,  and 
the  trade  of  the  place  is  fa 
cilitated  by  railroads  in  vari 
ous  directions.  The  Ken 
tucky  Military  Institute,  a 
thriving  institution,  is  in  the 
vicinity  of  Frankfort.  Popu 
lation  about  5,000. 

"Frankfort  was  established 
by  the  Virginia  legislature  ic 
1786,  though  the  first  survey 
of  600  acres  was  made  by 
Robert  McAfee,  on  the  16th 
of  July,  1773.  The  seat  of  government  was  located  in  1792,  and  the  first 
session  of  the  assembly  was  held 
in  1793.  The  public  buildings 
not  being  ready,  the  legislature 
assembled  in  a  large  frame  house 
belonging  to  Maj.  James  Love, 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  city." 

The  Frankfort  Cemetery  is  laid 
out  on  the  summit  of  the  high  and 
commanding  bluffs  which  imme 
diately  rise  in  an  eastern  direc 
tion  from  the  city.  The  "Mili 
tary  Monument"  (an  engraving  of 
which  is  annexed)  was  erected  in 
pursuance  of  an  act  of  the  legisla 
ture,  Feb.,  1848.  The  following 
inscriptions  and  names  are  en 
graved  upon  it,  viz : 
MILITARY  MONUMENT  ERECTED  BY 

KENTUCKY,  A.  D.,  1860. 
Mexico,  Lt.  J.  W.  Powell ;  Boones- 
boroiigh,  Harmar  s  Defeat,  Capt.  J. 
MeMurtey;  Monterey,  P.  M.  Bar- 
bour;  Buena  Vista,  Col.  William  R. 
McKee,  Lieut.  Col.  Clay,  Capt.  Wm. 
T.  Willis,  Adjutant  B.  P.  Vaughn; 

Raisin,  Col.  John  Allen,  Maj.  Benja-      bourTinThedi'stance  is"  shown  that  of  Col.  B.  M.Johnson. 

nnn  Graves,   Capt.    John  Woolfolk, 

Capt.  N.  G.  S.  Hart,  Capt.  James  Meade,  Capt.  Robert  Edwards,  Capt.  Virgil  Me- 
Cracken,  Capt.  William  Price,  Capt.  John  Edmundson,  Capt.  John  Simpson,  Capt 
Pascal  Hickman,  Lieut.  John  Williamson;  Thames,  CoL  Wm.  Whitley,  Capt.  Elijah 

5 


MILITARY  MONUMENT,  FRANKFORT. 
The  small  monument  in  front  is  that  of  Maj.  B;i 


66  KENTUCKY. 

Craig,  Lieut.  Robert  Logan,  Lieut.  Thos.  C.  Graves,  Lieut.  Thos.  Overton,  Lieut. 
Francis  Chinn,  Ensign  Levi  Wells,  Ensign Shawhan,  Surgeon  Alex.  Mont 
gomery,  Surgeon  Thomas  C.  Davis,  Surgeon  John  Irvin,  Surgeon  Thos.  Mcllvaine; 
Indian  Wars,  Col.  John  Floyd,  Col.  Nathaniel  Hart,  Col.  Walker  Daniel,  Col.  Wm. 
Christian,  Col.  Rice  Galloway,  Col.  James  Harrod,  Col.  Wm.  Lynn,  Maj.  Evan 
Shelby,  Maj.  Bland  Ballard,  Capt.  Christ  Irvin,  Capt.  Wm.  McAfee,  Capt.  John 
Kennedy,  Capt.  Christopher  Crepps,  Capt.  Rogers,  Capt.  Wm.  Bryant,  Capt.  Tip- 
ton,  Capt.  Chapman,  Capt.  McCracken,  Capt.  James  Shelby,  Capt.  Samuel  Grant, 
Supv'r  Hanc'y  Taylor,  Supv'r  Willis  Lee;  Massissinaivay ,  St.  Clair's  Defeat,  Col. 
Wm.  Oldham;  Estilts  Defeat,  Capt.  James  Estill,  Lieut.  South;  Tippecanoe,  Col. 
Joseph  H.  Daviess,  Col.  Abram  Owen;  Fort  Meigs,  Col.  Wm.  Dudley,  Capt.  John 
C.  Morrison,  Capt.  Chris'r  Jrvin,  Capt.  Joseph  Clark,  Capt.  Thomas  Lewis;  Blue 
Licks,  Col.  John  Todd,  Col.  Stephen  Trigg,  Major  Silas  Harlan,  Maj.  Wm.  McBride, 
Capt.  Edward  Bulger,  Capt.  John  Gordon,  Capt.  Isaac  Boone. 

The  principal  battles  and  campaigns  in  which  her  sons  devoted  their  lives  to 
their  country  are  inscribed  on  the  bands,  and  beneath  the  same  are  the  names  of 
the  officers  who  fell.  The  names  of  her  soldiers  who  died  for  their  country  are  too 
numerous  to  be  inscribed  on  any  column.  By  order  of  the  legislature,  the  name 
of  Col.  J.  J.  Hardin,  of  the  1st  Reg.  Illinois  Infantry,  a  son  of  Kentucky,  who  fell 
at  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  is  inscribed  hereon. 

Kentucky  has  erected  this  column  in  gratitude  equally  to  her  officers  and  soldiers. 


To  the  memory  of  COL.  RICHARD  M.  JOHNSON,  a  faithful  public  servant  for  nearly 
half  a  century,  as  a  member  of  the  Kentucky  legislature  and  senator  in  congress. 
Author  of  the  Sunday  Mail  Report,  and  of  the  laws  for  the  abolishment  for  debt  in 
Kentucky  and  in  the  United  States.  Distinguished  for  his  valor  as  a  colonel  of  a 
Kentucky  regiment  at  the  battle  of  the  Thames.  For  four  years  vice-president  of 
the  United  States.  Kentucky,  his  native  state,  to  mark  the  sense  of  his  eminent 
services  in  the  cabinet  and  in  the  field,  has  erected  this  monument  in  the  resting 
place  of  her  illustrious  dead.  Richard  Mentor  Johnson,  born  at  Bryant's  Station, 
on  the  17th  day  of  October,  1781  ;  died  in  Frankfort,  Ky.,  on  the  19th  day  of  No 
vember,  1850. 

PHILIP  NORBOURNE  BARBOUR,  born  in  Henderson,  Kentucky,  graduated  with 
merit  at  West  Point  in  1829;  and  immediately  commissioned  Lieutenant  3d  Regi 
ment  U.  S.  Infantry;  captain  by  brevet  for  valor  in  the  Florida  War;  served  with 
distinction  at  Palo  Alto;  major  by  brevet  for  distinguished  gallantry  and  skill  at 
Resaca  de  la  Palma.  He  fell  at  the  head  of  his  command,  covered  with  honor  and 
glory,  at  the  storming  of  Monterey,  Sept.  21;  1846.  Florida,  Palo  Alto,  Resaca  de 
Palma,  Monterey.  Kentucky  has  erected  this  monument  to  a  brave  and  noble  son. 

"At  its  session  of  1844-45,  the  legislature  of  Kentucky  adopted  measures  to  have 
tne  mortal  remains  of  the  celebrated  pioneer;  Daniel  Boone,  and  those  of  his  wife, 
removed  from  their  place  of  burial  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  for  the  purposo 
of  interment  in  the  public  cemetery  at  Frankfort. 

The  consent  of  the  surviving  relations  of  the  deceased  having  been  obtained,  a 
commission  was  appointed,  under  whose  superintendence  the  removal  was  effected; 
and  the  13th  of  September,  1845,  was  fixed  upon  as  the  time  when  the  ashes  of  the 
venerable  dead  would  be  committed  with  fitting  ceremonies  to  the  place  of  their 
final  repose.  The  deep  feeling  excited  by  the  occasion  was  evinced  by  the  as 
sembling  of  an  immense  concourse  of  citizens  from  all  parts  of  the  state,  and  the 
ceremonies  were  most  imposing  and  impressive.  A  procession,  extending  more 
than  a  mile  in  length,  accompanied  the  coffins  to  the  grave.  The  hearse,  decorated 
with  evergreens  and  flowers,  and  drawn  by  four  white  horses,  was  placed  in  its  as 
signed  position  in  the  line,  accompanied,  as  pall  bearers,  by  the  following  distin 
guished  pioneers,  viz:  Col.  Richard  M.  Johnson,  of  Scott;  General  James  Taylor, 
of  Campbell,  Capfc.  James  Ward,  of  Mason ;  Gen.  Robert  B.  McAfee  and  Peter  Jor 
dan,  of  Mercer ;  Waller  Bullock,  Esq.,  of  Fayette ;  Capt.  Thos.  Joyce,  of  Louisville  • 


KENTUCKY. 


67 


Mr.  Landin  Sneed,  of  Franklin;  Col.  John  Johnston,  of  the  state  of  Ohio;  Major 
Z.  Williams,  of  Kenton,  and  Col.  Win.  Boone,  of  Shelby.  The  procession  was  ac 
companied  by  several  military  companies,  and  by  the  members  of  the  Masonic  Fra 
ternity,  and  the  Independent  order  of  Odd  Fellows,  in  rich  regalia.  Arrived  at  the 
grave,  the  company  was  brought  together  in  a  beautiful  hollow  near  the  grave,  as 
cending  from  the 
center  on  everv  side. 
Here  the  funeral  ser 
vices  were  perform- 
ed.  The  hymn  was 

S'ven  out  by  the 
ev.  Mr.  Godell,  of 
the  Baptist  Church; 
prayer  by  Bishop 
Soule,  of  the  Metho 
dist  E.  Church ;  ora 
tion  by  the  Honora 
ble  John  J.  Critten- 
den ;  closing  prayer 
by  the  Rev.  J.  J. 
Bullock,  of  the  Pres 
byterian  Church, 
and  benediction  by 
the  Rev.  P.  &  Fall, 
of  the  Christian 
Church.  The  coffins 
were  then  lowered 
in  to  the  graves.  The 
spot  where  the 
graves  are  situated 
is  as  beautiful  as  na- 

fllt,0    Qrirl     Qvf    nnm 
VY       ,  ,      .    ,„ 

bined  Can  make  it. 
_ 
"nly  tWO  perSODS 

were  present  of  all 

the  assembled  thousands  who  had  known  Boone  personally.  One  of  these 
was  the  venerable  Col.  John  Johnston,  of  Ohio,  long  an  agent  of  the  U.  S. 
government  over  the  Indians,  having  been  appointed  to  that  office  by  Wash 
ington.  The  other  was  a  humble  old  man  named  Ellison  Williams,  who 
walked  harefoot  from  Covington  to  Frankfort,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  to 
see  Boone's  bones  buried,  but  he  was  a  silent  mourner  and  an  entire  stranger 
in  that  vast  crowd.  He  left  as  his  dying  request  that  he  should  be  buried 
by  the  side  of  Boone,  and  the  legislature  of  Kentucky  in  1860  appropriated 
ninety  dollars  for  that  purpose.  At  the  same  session  they  passed  a  bill  ap 
propriating  two  thousand  dollars  to  erect  a  monument  over  the  remains  of 
Boone  and  his  wife.  The  originator  of  the  bill  was  the  Hon.  Samuel  Hay- 
craft,  senator  from  Hardin,  who  advocated  the  measure  in  a  speech  of  "al 
most  matchless  beauty,  eloquence  and  patriotism." 


GRAVES  OF  DANIEL  BOONE  AND  HIS  WIFE  AT  FRANKFORT. 

The  graves  of  Boone  and  his  wife  are  without  a  monument  save  the  forest 
scene  by  which  they  are  surrounded.  The  spot  where  they  were  interred  is 
at  the  foot  of  the  two  trees,  around  which  is  a  simple  Injard  seat.  It  is  near 
the  edge  of  the  high  bluff  rising  from  the  river.  The  beautiful  valley  of 
Kentucky  River  is  seen  in  the  extreme  distance. 


HARRODSBURG,  the  county  seat  of  Mercer  county,  is  situated  near  the 
geographical  center  of  the  state,  thirty  miles  south  from  Frankfort,  on  an 
eminence,  1  mile  from  Salt  River  and  8  miles  from  Kentucky  River.  It 
contains  the  county  buildings,  7  churches,  2  banks  25  stores,  several  manu 
facturing  establishments,  the  Kentucky  University,  2  female  colleges,  and 
about  2,500  inhabitants.  Bacon  College,  founded  in  1836,  under  the  pat 
ronage  of  the  Christian  denomination,  is  located  in  this  place.  The  Har 


tJ3  KENTUCKY. 

rodsburg  Springs  are  celebrated  for  the  medicinal  virtue  of  their  waters,  and 
for  the  beauty  and  extent  of  the  adjoining  grounds. 

According  to  some  authorities,  Harrodsburg  was  the  first  settled  place  in 
Kentucky.  In  July,  1773,  the  McAfee  company  from  Bottetourt  county, 
Ya.,  visited  this  region,  and  surveyed  lands  on  Salt  River.  Capt.  James 
Harrod,  with  forty-one  men,  descended  the  Ohio  River  from  the  Mononga- 
hela,  in  May,  1774,  and  penetrating  into  the  intervening  forest  made  his 
principal  camp  about  one  hundred  yards  below  the  tdwn  spring,  under  the 
branches  of  a  large  elm  tree.  About  the  middle  of  June,  Capt.  Harrod  and 
companions  laid  off  a  town  plot  (which  included  the  camp),  and  erected  a 
number  of  cabins.  The  place  received  the  name  of  Harrodstown,  afterward 
Oldtown,  and  finally  the  present  name  of  Harrodsburg.  The  first  corn  raised 
in  Kentucky  was  in  1775,  by  John  Harmon,  in  a  field  at  the  east  end  of 
Harrodsburg.  During  the  year  1777,  the  Indians,  in  great  numbers,  col 
lected  about  Harrodsburg,  in  order,  it  was  supposed,  to  prevent  any  corn 
being  raised  for  the  support  of  the  settlers.  In  this  period  of  distress  and 
peril,  a  lad  by  the  name  of  Ray,  seventeen  years  of  age,  rendered  himself  an 
object  of  general  favor  by  his  courage  and  enterprise.  He  often  rose  before 
day,  and  left  the  fort  on  an  old  horse  to  procure  (by  hunting)  food  for  the 
garrison.  This  horse* was  the  only  one  left  unslaughtered  by  the  Indians 
of  forty  brought  to  the  country  by  Major  M'Grary.  He  proceeded,  on  these 
occasions,  cautiously  to  Salt  River,  generally  riding  in  the  bed  of  some  small 
stream  to  conceal  his  course.  When  sufficiently  out  of  hearing,  he  would 
kill  his  load  of  game  and  bring  it  in  to  the  suffering  people  of  the  fort  after 
nightfall. 

LOUISVILLE,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Jefferson  county,  is  the  largest  city  in 
the  state,  and,  next  to  Cincinnati  and  Pittsburg,  the  most  important  on  the 
Ohio.  It  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  at  the  head  of  the  rapids, 
65  miles  by  railroad  W.  of  Frankfort,  130  below  Cincinnati,  590  W.  by  S.  from 
Washington,  and  1.411  above  New  Orleans.  The  city  is  built  on  a  gentle  ac 
clivity,  75  feet  above  low  water  mark,  on  a  slightly  undulating  plain.  Eight 
handsome  streets,  nearly  two  miles  in  length,  run  east  and  west,  parallel  with 
the  river:  they  are  crossed  by  more  than  30  others  running  at  right  angles. 
The  situation  and  surrounding  scenery  of  Louisville  are  beautiful,  and  from 
Borne  parts  is  had  a  delightful  view  of  the  Ohio  River  and  of  the  town  of 
New  Albany,  a  few  miles  below. 

Its  immediate  trade  extends  into  all  the  surrounding  country,  and  em 
braces  within  the  state  of  Kentucky  a  circuit  of  one  of  the  most  productive 
regions  of  the  world.  The  manufactures  of  Louisville  are  very  extensive, 
embracing  a  great  variety.  It  has  founderies  and  machine  shops,  steam  bag 
ging  factories,  cotton,  woolen  and  tobacco  factories,  mills  of  various  kinds, 
distilleries,  breweries,  agricultural  factories,  etc.  Ship  building  is  also  ex 
tensively  carried  on.  The  trade  of  Louisville  is  estimated  at  one  hundred 
millions  of  dollars  annually.  The  principal  agricultural  exports  are  tobacco, 
pork,  hemp,  and  flour.  It  is  connected  with  its  suburb  Portland  by  a  rail 
road  operated  by  horse  power,  and  by  a  canal  2J  miles  around  the  Falls  of 
the  Ohio,  with  a  total  lockage  of  22  feet.  It  is  also  connected  by  railroads 
with  the  interior.  Since  the  completion  of  the  railroad  to  Nashville,  an  im 
mense  trade  has  opened  with  the  south,  which  has  given  a  great  impulse  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  city.  Louisville  contains  many  splendid  public  build 
ings,  10  banks,  about  50  churches,  and  a  population,  in  1860,  of  75,196. 

The  Medical  Institute,   organized  in  1837,  by  an  ordinance  of  the  city 


KENTUCKY. 


69 


council,  ranks  high  among  the  public  institutions  of  Louisville.  The  Uni 
versity  of  Louisville  is  in  successful  operation,  and  has  buildings  which  are  an 
ornament  to  the  city.  The  Marine  Hospital,  designed  as  a 'refuge  for  sick 


View  of  the  Central  part  of  Louisville. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  the  central  part  of  Louisville,  from  the  Indiana  side  of  the  Ohio. 
The  Jefferson  City  Ferry  Landing,  and  Gait  House  appear  on  the  left,  the  Louisville  Hotel  in  the  dis 
tance  on  the  right,  the  Court  House  and  City  Hall,  the  Catholic  and  other  Churches  in  the  central  part. 

and  infirm  mariners,  is  an  important  public  institution,  located  and  established 
here  in  1820,  by  a  grant  from  the  state  of  $40,000.  Another  Marine  Asy 
lum  has  been  erected  here  by  the  general  government.  The  Asylum  for  the 
Blind,  established  by  the  state  in  1842,  has  a  spacious  building  erected  by 
the  joint  contributions  of  the  state  and  citizens  of  Louisville.  The  students, 
beside  their  literary  studies,  are  also  instructed  in  various  kinds  of  handi 
craft,  by  which  they  can  support  themselves  after  leaving  the  institution.  St. 
Joseph's  Infirmary  <is  a  Catholic  benevolent  institution.  The  Kentucky  His 
torical  Society,  in  this  place,  was  incorporated  in  1838:  it  has  collected  valua 
ble  documents  relating  to  the  early  history  of  the  state  and  of  the  west. 
The  Mercantile  Library  Association  has  a  large  and  valuable  collection  of 
books.  The  Artesian  Well,  at  Louisville,  sends  up  immense  quantities  of 
mineral  water  of  rare  medicinal  value  in  various  complaints,  proving  a  bless 
ing  as  great  as  it  was  unexpected  to  the  citizens. 

The  following,  relative  to  the  first  settlement,  etc.,  of  Louisville,  is  from 
Collins'  Historical  Sketches  of  Ky.: 

Captain  Thomas  Bullitt,  of  Virginia,  uncle  of  the  late  Alexander  Scott  Bulliif-, 
wno  was  the  first  lieutenant-governor  of  Kentucky,  is  said  to  have  laid  off  Louisv'l! 
in  1773.  This  was  before  the  first  log  cabin  was  built  in  Kentucky.  For  gev«r-U 
years  after  this,  the  silence  of  the  forest  was  undisturbed  by  the  white  man.  The 
place  was  occasionally  visited  by  different  persons,  but  no  settlement  was  made  un 
til  1778.  Tn  the  spring  of  this  year,  a  party,  consisting  of  a  small  number  of 
families,  came  to  the  Falls  with  George  Rogers  Clark,  and  were  left  by  him  on  an 


70  KENTUCKY. 

island  near  the  Kentucky  shore,  now  called  Corn  Island.  The  name  is  supposed 
to  have  been  derived  from  the  circumstance  that  the  settlers  planted  their  first  In 
dian  corn  on  this  island. 

These  settlers  were  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant  from  any  other  settlement,  and 
had  nothing  but  their  insular  position  to  defend  them  from  the  Indians.  The  posts 
in  the  Wabash  country,  occupied  by  the  British,  served  as  points  of  support  lor 
the  incursions  of  the  savages.  After  these  had  been  taken  by  Clark,  the  settlers 
rt-ere  inspired  with  confidence,  and,  in  the  fall  of  1778,  removed  from  the  island  to 
the  site  now  occupied  by  Louisville.  Here  a  block  house  was  erected,  and  the 
number  of  settlers  was  increased  by  the  arrival  of  other  emigrants  from  Virginia. 

In  1780,  the  legislature  of  Virginia  passed  'an  act  for  establishing  the  town  of 
Louisville,  at  the  falls  of  Ohio.'  By  this  act,  'John  Todd,  jr.,  Stephen  Trigg,  Geo. 
Slaughter,  John  Floyd,  William  Pope,  George  Meriwether,  Andrew  Hynes,  James 
Sullivan,  gentlemen,'  were  appointed  trustees  to  lay  off  the  town  on  a  tract  of  one 
thousand  acres  of  land,  which  had  been  granted  to  John  Connelly  by  the  British 
government,  and  which  he  had  forfeited  by  adhering  to  the  English  monarch. 
Each  purchaser  was  to  build  on  his  own  lot  'a  dwelling  house  sixteen  feet  by  twenty 
at  least,  with  a  brick  or  stone  chimney,  to  be  finished  within  two  years  from  the  day 
of  sale.'  On  account  of  the  interruptions  caused  by  the  inroads  of  the  Indians, 
the  time  was  afterward  extended.  The  state  of  the  settlers  was  one  of  constant 
danger  and  anxiety.  Their  foes  were  continually  prowling  around,  and  it  was 
risking  their  lives  to  leave  the  fort. 

The  settlement  at  the  falls  was  more  exposed  than  those  in  the  interior,  on  ac 
count  of  the  facility  with  which  the  Indians  could  cross  and  recross  the  river,  and 
the  difficulties  in  the  way  of  pursuing  them.  The  savages  frequently  crossed  the 
river,  and  after  killing  some  of  the  settlers,  and  committing  depredations  upon 
property,  recrossed  and  escaped.  In  1780,  Colonel  George  Slaughter  arrived  at 
the  Falls  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  state  troops.  The  inhabitants  were  inspired 
with  a  feeling  of  security  which  led  them  frequently  to  expose  themselves  with  too 
little  caution.  Their  foes  were  ever  on  the  watch,  and  were  continually  destroying 
valuable  lives.  Danger  and  death  crouched  in  every  path,  and  lurked  behind 
every  tree. 


Medical  and  Law  Colleges,  Louisville. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  graveyards 
of  Louisville,  the  first  three  being  in  the  old  yard  in  the  city,  the  remainder 
in  the  Cave  Hill  Cemetery : 

Erected  by  Dr.  J.  M.  Talbot  to  the  memory  of  bis  Father,  Capt.  ISHAM  TALBOT,  who  de 
parted  thia  life  July  30,  1839,  in  his  81st  year.  He  was  born  in  Virginia.  At  a  tender  age 


KENTUCKY.  71 

he  entered  the  Army  of  the  Revolution,  was  in  the  memorable  battles  of  Brandy  wine  Ger- 
mantown  and  Monmouth.  Visited  Ky.  in  '79,  and  after  his  permanent  location  in  '82  was 
in  the  disastrous  engagement  with  the  Indians  at  the  Lower  Blue  Licks.  He  sustained 
through  life  the  character  of  a  high  minded,  honorable  gentleman.  His  Honesty  and  In 
tegrity  were  never  questioned,  and  far  better  than  all,  he  died  with  a  bright  hope  of  eniovins 
eternal  Life  beyond  the  grave. 

REV.  ISAAC  McCoy,  born  June  13th,  1784,  died  June  21st,  1836.  For  near  30  years,  his 
entire  time  and  energies  were  devoted  to  the  civil  and  religious  improvement  of  the  Abo 
riginal  tribes  of  this  country.  He  projected  and  founded  the  plan  of  their  Colonization 
their  only  hope,  the  imperishable  monument  of  his  wisdom  and  benevolence. 

The  Indian's  Friend,  for  them  he  loved  through  life, 

For  them  in  death  he  breathed  his  final  prayer. 

Now  from  his  toil  he  rests — the  care — the  strife — 

And  waits  in  heaven,  his  works  to  follow  there. 

To  the  memory  of  MAJOR  JOHN  HARRISON,  who  was  born  in  Westmoreland  Co.,  Virginia, 
A.D.  1754.  After  having  fought  for  the  Liberty  of  his  Country  during  the  struggles  of  the 
American  Revolution,  he  settled  in  Louisville  in  1786,  and  paid  nature's  final  debt,  July  15th, 
1821.  

PEARSON  FOLLANSBEE,  City  Missionary  in  Louisville,  born  March  4,  1808,  in  Vassalboro, 
Me.,  died  Sept.  6th,  1846.     "  He  went  about  doing  good.     His  record  is  on  high." 
OO  

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  JOHN  McKiNLEY,  Associate  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
U.  S.  Born  May  1,  1780 ;  died  July  19,  1852.  "  In  his  manner  he  was  simple  and  unaf 
fected,  and  his  character  was  uniformly  marked  with  manliness,  integrity  and  honor.  He 
was  a  candid,  impartial  and  righteous  judge,  shrinking  from  no  responsibility.  He  was 
fearless  in  the  performance  of  his  duty,  seeking  only  to  do  right,  and  fearing  nothing  but 
to  do  wrong." — Hon.  J.  J.  Crittenden's  remarks  in  U.  S.  Court. 

WM.  H.  G.  BUTLER,  born  in  Jefferson  Co.,  Ind.,  Oct.  3,  1825,  died  at  Louisville,  Ky., 
Nov.  2,  1853.  A  man  without  fear  and  without  reproach,  of  gentle  and  retiring  disposi 
tion,  of  clear  and  vigorous  mind;  an  accomplished  scholar,  a  devoted  and  successful 
teacher,  a  meek  and  humble  Christian.  He  fell  by  the  hand  of  violence  in  the  presence  of 
his  loving  pupils,  a  Martyr  to  his  fidelity  in  the  discharge  of  duty.  This  monument  is 
erected  by  his  pupils,  and  a  bereaved  community,  to  show  their  appreciation  of  his  worth, 
and  to  perpetuate  their  horror  at  his  murder. 

JANE  McCuLLOUGH,  wife  of  John  Martin,  died  by  the  falling  of  the  Walnut  Presby 
terian  Church,  Aug.  27,  1854.  Aged  59  years. 

She  loved  the  Courts  of  God  below,          I          And  while  engaged  in  worship  there, 
There  found  her  Saviour  nigh,  Was  called  to  those  on  high. 


Annexed  is  a  view  of  the  magnificent  bridge  over  Green  River  on  the 
Louisville  and  Nashville  Railroad.  Excepting  the  Victoria  Bridge,  at  Mon 
treal,  it  is  the  largest  iron  bridge  on  this  continent.  The  iron  work  of  the 
superstructure,  which  was  built  by  Inman  &  Gault,  of  Louisville,  was  begun 
in  July,  1858,  and  by  July,  1859,  the  bridge  was  in  its  place  ready  for  the 
passage  of  trains. 

"  Jt  crosses  the  valley  of  Green  River  near  the  town  of  Mumfordsville,  Kentucky, 
about  70  miles  from  Louisville,  and  twenty  miles  above  the  celebrated  Mammoth 
Cave,  which  is  located  on  the  same  stream'.  Its  total  length  is  1,000  feet,  consist 
ing  of  three  spans  of  208  feet,  and  two  of  288  feet  each;  is  118  feet  above  low- 
water;  contains  638.000  pounds  of  cast,  and  381,000  pounds  of  wrought  iron,  and 
2,500  cubic  feet  of  timber  in  the  form  of  rail  joists.  There  are  10,220  cubic  yards 
of  masonry  in  the  piers  and  abutments.  The  cost  of  the  superstructure,  includ 
ing  that  of  erection,  was  sixty-eight  dollars  per  foot  lineal— that  of  the  entire  work, 
$165,000.  The  plan  of  truss  is  that  invented  by  Albert  Fink,  the  designer  and 
constructor  of  the  bridges  and  viaducts  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad;  and 
is  peculiar  in  this,  that  it  is  self-compensating  and  self-adjusting,  and  no  extremes 
of  temperature  can  put  it  in  such  a  condition  that  all  the  parts  can  not  act  in  their 
accustomed  manner  and  up  to  their  full  capacity." 


72  KENTUCKY. 

The  celebrated  Mammoth  Cave,  one  of  the  great  wonders  of  the  western 
world,  is  in  Edmondson  county,  near  the  line  of  the  Louisville  and  Nashville 


Iron  Bridge  over  Green  liieer. 

Railroad,  and  about  90  miles  from  each  of  the  two  cities.     It  is  said  to  have 
been  explored  to  the  distance  of  10  miles  without  reaching  its  termination,  while 

the  aggregate  width  of  all 
its  branches  exceeds  forty 
miles. 

"  The  cave  is  approached 
through  a  romantic  shade. 
At  the  entrance  is  a  rush 
of  cold  air ;  a  descent  of  30 
feet,  by  stone  steps,  and  an 
advance  of  150  feet  inward, 
brings  the  visitor  to  the 
door,  in  a  solid  stone  wall, 
which  blocks  up  the  en 
trance  of  the  cave.  A  nar 
roAv  passage  leads  to  the 
great  vestibule,  or  ante 
chamber,  an  oval  hall,  200 
by  150  feet,  and  50  feet 
high.  Two  passages,  of 
one  hundred  feet  width, 
open  into  it,  and  the  whole 
is  supported  without  a  sin 
gle  column.  This  chamber 
was  used  by  the  races  of 
yore  as  a  cemetery,  judg 
ing  from  the  bones  of  gi 
gantic  size  which  are  dis 
covered.  A  hundred  feet 

GOTHIC  CUA,EL,  MAMM,,TH  CAVE.  ***>™  J°™  head>  J™  catoh 

a  iittul  glimpse  of  a  dark 
gray. ceiling,  rolling  dimly  away  like  a  cloud;  and  heavy  buttresses,  apparently 


KENTUCKY.  73 

bending  under  the  superincumbent  weight,  project  their  enormous  masses  from  the 
shadowy  wall.  The  scene  is  vast,  solemn,  and  awful.  In  the  silence  that  pervades 
vou  can  distinctly  hear  the  throbbings  of  your  heart.  In  Audubon  Avenue,  lead 
ing  from  the  hall,  is  a  deep  well  of  pure  spring  water,  surrounded  by  stalagmite 
columns  from  the  floor  to  the  roof.  The  Little  Sat  Room  contains  a  pit  of  280 
feet  deep,  and  is  the  resort  of  myriads  of  bats.  The  Grand  Gallery  is  a  vast  tun 
nel,  many  miles  long  and  50  feet  high,  and  as  wide.  At  the  end  of  the  first  quar 
ter  of  a  mile  are  the  Kentucky  Cliffs,  and  the  Church,  100  feet  in  diameter  and 
63  feet  high.  A  natural  pulpit  and  organ  loft  are  not  wanting.  '  In  this  temple 
religious  services  have  frequently  been  performed.'  The  Gothic  Avenue,  reached 
by  a  flight  of  stairs,  is  40  feet  wide,  15  feet  high,  and  2  miles  long.  Mummies  have 
been  discovered  here,  which  have  been  the  subject  of  curious  study  to  science; 
there  are  also  stalagmites  and  stalactites  in  Louisa's  Bower  and  Vulcan  s  Furnace. 
On  the  walls  of  the  Register  Rooms  are  inscribed  thousands  of  names.  The 
Gothic  Chapel,  or  Stalagmite  Hall,  is  an  elliptical  chamber,  80  feet  long  by  50 
wide.  Stalagmite  columns  of  immense  size  nearly  block  up  the  two  ends;  and 
two  rows  of  pillars  of  smaller  dimensions,  reaching  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling, 
and  equi-distant  from  the  wall  on  either  side,  extend  the  entire  length  of  the  hall. 
This  apartment  is  one  of  surprising  grandeur,  and  when  illuminated  with  lamps, 
inspires  the  beholder  with  feelings  of  solemnity  and  awe.  At  the  foot  of  the 
Devil's  Arm  Chair  is  a  small  basin  of  sulphur  water.  Then  there  is  the  Breast 
work,  the  Elephant  s  Head,  Lover  s  Leap,  Gatewood'  s  Dining  Table,  and  the  Cool 
ing  Tub,  a  basin  6  feet  wide  and  3  feet  deep,  of  the  purest  water,  Napoleon' s  Dome, 
etc.  The  Ball  Room  contains  an  orchestra  15  feet  high;  near  by  is  a  row  of 
cabins  for  consumptive  patients — the  atmosphere  being  always  temperate  and  pure. 
The  Star  Chamber  presents  an  optical  illusion.  '  In  looking  up,  the  spectator 
seems  to  see  the  firmament  itself,  studded  with  stars,  and  afar  off  a  comet  with  a 
bright  tail.'  The  Temple  is  an  immense  vault,  covering  an  area  of  two  acres,  and 
covered  by  a  single  dome  of  solid  rock,  120  feet  high.  It  rivals  the  celebrated 
vault  in  the  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  which  is  the  largest  in  the  world.  In  the  middle 
of  the  dome  there  is  a  large  mound  of  rocks  rising  on  one  side  nearly  to  the  top, 
very  steep,  and  forming  what  is  called  the  Mountain.  The  River  Hall  descends 
like  the  slope  of  a  mountain;  the  ceiling  stretches  away  before  you,  vast  and  grand 
as  the  firmament  at  midnight.  A  short  distance  on  the  left  is  a  steep  precipice, 
over  which  you  can  look  down,  by  the  aid  of  torches,  upon  a  broad,  black  sheet 
of  water,  80  feet  below,  called  the  Dead  Sea.  This  is  an  awfully  impressive  place, 
the  sights  and  sounds  of  which  do  not  easily  pass  from  memory." 

Maysville  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ohio,  73  miles  N.E.  from 
Frankfort,  441  below  Pittsburg,  and  55  above  Cincinnati  by  the  river.  It  is 
beautifully  located  on  a  high  bank,  having  a  range  of  lofty  verdant  hills  or 
bluffs  rising  immediately  behind  the  city.  Maysville  has  a  good  harbor,  and 
is  the  port  of  a  large  and  productive  section  of  the  state.  Among  the  pub 
lic  buildings,  there  is  a  handsome  city  hall,  2  large  seminaries,  a  hospital 
and  7  churches.  Bagging,  rope,  machinery,  agricultural  implements,  and 
various  other  articles,  are  extensively  manufactured.  It  is  one  of  the  largest 
hemp  markets  in  the  Union.  Population  about  3,000. 

Maysville  was  known  for  many  years  as  Limestone,  from  the  Creek  of  that 
name,  which  here  empties  into  the  Ohio.  It  received  its  present  name  from 
John  May,  the  owner  of  the  land,  a  gentleman  from  Virginia.  The  first  set 
tlement  was  made  at  this  place  in  1784,  and  a  double  log  cabin  and  block 
house  were  built  by  Edward  and  John  Waller,  and  Greorge  Lewis,  of  Vir 
ginia.  Col.  Daniel  Boone  resided  here  in  1786,  and  while  here  made  a 
treaty  with  the  Indians  at  the  mouth  of  Fishing  Gut,  opposite  Maysville. 
The  town  was  established  in  1788.  The  first  school  was  opened  in  1790,  by 
Israel  Donaldson,  who  had  been  a  captive  among  the  Indians.  The  frontier 
and  exposed  situation  of  Maysville  retarded  its  progress  for  many  years,  and 


74  KENTUCKY. 

it  was  not  until  about  the  year  1815,  that  its  permanent  improvement  fairly 
commenced.     It  was  incorporated  a  city  in  1833. 


View  of  the  Mouth  of  Licking  River,  between  Newport  and  Covington. 

The  Suspension  Bridge  between  Newport  and  Covington  is  seen  in  the  central  part,  passing  over  Licking 
River.    The  U.  S.  Barracks,  in  Newport,  appear  on  the  left,  part  of  Covington  on  the  right. 

COVINGTON  is  in  Ken  ton  county,  on  the  west  side  of  Licking  River,  at  its 
mouth,  also  on  the  south  hank  of  the  Ohio,  opposite  Cincinnati,  and  at  the 
northern  terminus  of  the  Kentucky  Central  Railroad:  it  is  60  miles  N.N.E. 
from  Frankfort.  It  is  built  on  a  beautiful  plain  several  miles  in  extent,  and 
the  streets  are  so  arranged  as  to  appear,  from  the  hills  back  of  Cincinnati,  as 
a  continuation  of  that  city,  of  which,  with  Newport,  it  is  a  suburb.  The  fa 
cilities  of  communication  are  such  that  many  persons  reside  here,  whose 
places  of  business  are  in  Cincinnati.  Its  manufacturing  interests  are  ex 
tensive  and  varied.  A  magnificent  suspension  bridge  is  now  constructing 
over  the  Ohio,  to  connect  Covington  with  Cincinnati.  Population  about 
15,000. 

Newport  is  on  a  handsome  plain,  on  the  Ohio  River,  opposite  Cincinnati : 
it  is  separated  from  Covington  by  Licking  River,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  a  beautiful  suspension  bridge.  An  U.  S.  arsenal  and  barracks  are  located 
here.  It  contains  several  rolling  mills,  iron  founderies,  steam  mills,  etc. 
Population  about  12,000. 

The  valley  of  the  Ohio,  a  short  distance  from  the  Licking,  was  the  scene  of 
a  most  sanguinary  event  years  before  white  men  had  settled  in  this  vicinity. 
It  was  Rogers'  defeat  and  massacre,  which  occurred  in  the  fall  of  1779,  at 
which  time  this  spot,  and  the  site  of  the  now  flourishing  city  of  Cincinnati, 
opposite,  was  one  dense  forest : 

Col.  David  Rogers  and  Capt  Benham,  with  100  men,  were  in  two  large  keel 
boats,  on  their  way  from  New"  Orleans,  with  supplies  of  ammunition  and  provis 
ions  for  the  western  posts.  In  October,  when  near  the  mouth  of  the  Licking,  a 
few  Indians  were  seen,  and  supposing  himself  to  be  superior  in  numbers,  Rodgers 
landed  to  attack  them,  and  was  led  into  an  ambuscade  of  400  Indians.  The  whites 
fought  with  desperation,  but  in  a  furious  onset  with  tomahawk  and  scalpini^-knife, 
the  commander,  with  about  ninety  of  his  men,  were  soon  dispatched.  The  escape 
of  Capt.  Benham  was  almost  miraculous.  A  shot  passed  through  both  legs,  shat- 


KENTUCKY.  *5 

tering  the  bones.  With  great  pain  he  dragged  himself  into  the  top  of  a  fallen  tree 
where  he  lay  concealed  from  the  search  of  the  Indians  after  the  battle  was  over! 
He  remained  there  until  the  evening  of  the  next  day,  when,  being  in  danger  of 
famishing,  he  shot  a  raccoon  which  he  perceived  descending  a  tree  near  where  he 
lay.  Just  at  that  moment  he  heard  a  human  cry,  apparently  within  a  few  rods 
Supposing  it  to  be  an  enemy,  he  loaded  his  gun  and  remained  silent.  A  second 
and  then  a  third  halloo  was  given,  accompanied  by  the  exclamation, '  Whoever  you 
are,  for  God's  sake  answer  me?'  This  time  Benham  replied,  and  soon  found  the 
unknown  to  be  a  fellow  soldier,  with  both  arms  broken  !  Thus  each  was  enabled 
to  supply  the  deficiency  of  the  other.  Benham  could  load  and  shoot  game,  while 
his  companion  could  kick  it  to  Benham  to  cook.  In  this  way  they  supported  them 
selves  for  several  weeks  until  their  wounds  healed  sufficiently  to  enable  them  to 
move  down  to  the  mouth  of  Licking  River,  where  they  remained  until  the  27th  of 
November,  when  a  flat-boat  appeared  moving  by  on  the  river.  They  hailed  the 
boat,  but  the  crew  fearing  it  to  be  an  Indian  decoy,  at  first  refused  to  come  to  their 
aid,  but  eventually  were  prevailed  upon  to  take  them  on  board.  Both  of  them  re 
covered.  Benham  served  through  the  Indian  wars  down  to  the  victory  of  Wayne, 
and  subsequently  resided  near  Lebanon,  Ohio,  until  his  death,  about  the  year 
1808. 

The  Blue  Lick  Springs  is  a  watering  place  of  high  repute  on  the  Licking 
River,  in  Nicholas  county,  19  miles  from  Lexington,  and  80  miles  south 
easterly  from  Covington.  At  an  early  period,  the  Licks  became  a  place  of 
much  importance  to  the  settlers,  as  it  was  chiefly  here  that  they  procured,  at 
great  labor  and  expense,  their  supply  of  salt.  In  modern  times  it  has  be 
come  a  fashionable  place  of  resort,  the  accommodations  greatly  extended, 
and  the  grounds  improved  and  adorned.  The  Blue  Lick  water  has  become 
an  article  of  commerce,  several  thousand  barrels  being  annually  exported. 

It  was  at  this  place,  on  the  19th  of  Aug.,  1782,  that  a  bloody  battle  was 
fought  with  the  Indians,  "which  shrouded  Kentucky  in  mourning,"  and, 
next  to  St.  Glair's4  defeat,  has  become  famous  in  the  annals  of  savage  war 
fare.  Just  prior  to  this  event,  the  enemy  had  been  engaged  in  the  siege  of 
Bryant's  Station,  a  post  on  the  Elkhorn,  about  five  miles  from  Lexington. 
As  the  battle  was  a  sequel  to  the  other,  we  give  the  narrative  of  the  first  in 
connection,  as  described  in  McClung's  Sketches: 

In  the  summer  of  1782,  600  Indians,  under  the  influence  of  the  British  at  De 
troit,  assembled  at  old  Ghillicothe,  to  proceed  on  an  expedition  to  exterminate  thfl 
"  Long  Knife"  from  Kentucky,  and  on  the  night  of  the  14th  of  August,  this  body 
gathered  around  Bryant's  Station.  The  fort  itself  contained  about  forty  cabins, 
placed  in  parallel  lines,  connected  by  strong  palisades,  and  garrisoned  by  forty  or 
fifty  men.  It  was  a  parallelogram  of  thirty  rods  in  length  by  twenty  in  breadth, 
forming  an  inclosure  of  nearly  four  acres,  which  was  protected  by  digging  a  trench 
four  or  five  feet  deep,  in  which  strong  and  heavy  pickets  were  planted  by  ramming 
the  earth  well  down  against  them.  These  were  twelve  feet  out  of  the  ground, 
being  formed  of  hard,  durable  timber,  at  least  a  foot  in  diameter.  Such  a  wall,  it 
must  be  obvious,  defied  climbing  or  leaping,  and  indeed  any  means  of  attack,  can 
non  excepted.  At  the  angles  were  small  squares  or  block-houses,  which  projected 
beyond  the  palisades,  and  served  to  impart  additional  strength  at  the  corners,  as 
well  as  permitted  the  besieged  to  pour  a  raking  fire  across  the  advanced  party  of 
the  assailants.  Two  folding  gates  were  in  front  and  rear,  swinging  on  prodigious 
wooden  hinges,  sufficient  for  the  passage  in  and  out  of  men  or  wagons  in  times  of 
security.  These  were  of  course  provided  with  suitable  bars. 

This  was  the  state  of  things,  as  respects  the  means  of  defense,  at  Bryant's  Sta 
tion  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  of  August,  1782,  while  the  savages  lay  concealed 
in  the  thick  weeds  around  it,  which  in  those  days  grew  so  abundantly  and  tall,  as 
would  have  sufficed  to  conceal  mounted  horsemen.  They  waited  for  daylight,  and 
the  opening  of  the  gates  for  the  garrison  to  get  water  for  the  day's  supply  from  an 
adjacent  spring,  before  they  should  commence  the  work  of  carnage. 


76  KENTUCKY. 

It  seems  that  the  garrison  here  were  rather  taken  off  their  guard.  Pome  of  the 
palisude  work  had  not  been  secured  as  permanently  as  possible,  and  the  original 
party  which  built  the  fort  had  been  tempted,  in  the  hurry  of  constructing  and  their 
fewness  of  hands,  to  restrict  its  extent,  so  as  not  to  include  a  spring  of  water  within 
its  limits,  'ireat  as  were  these  disadvantages,  they  were  on  the  eve  of  exposure  tc 
a  still  greater  one,  for  had  the  attack  been  delayed  a  few  hours,  the  garrison  would 
have  been  found  disabled  by  sending  off  a  reinforcement  to  a  neighboring  station 
— Holder's  settlement — on  an  unfounded  alarm  that  it  was  attacked  by  a  party  of 
savages.  As  it  was,  no  sooner  had  a  few  of  the  men  made  their  appearance  out 
side  of  the  gate  than  they  were  fired  on,  and  compelled  to  regain  the  inside. 

According  to  custom,  the  Indians  resorted  to  stratagem  for  success.  A  detach 
ment  of  one  hundred  warriors  attacked  the  south-east  angle  of  the  station,  calcu 
lating  to  draw  the  entire  body  of  the  besieged  to  that  quarter  to  repel  the  attack, 
and  thus  enable  the  residue  of  the  assailants,  five  hundred  strong,  who  were  on  the 
opposite  side  in  ambush  near  the  spring,  to  take  advantage  of  its  unprotected  situ 
ation,  when  the  whole  force  of  the  defense  should  be  drawn  off  to  resist  the  assault 
at  the  south-east  Their  purpose,  however,  was  comprehended  inside,  and  instead 
of  returning  the  fire  of  the  smaller  party,  they  secretly  dispatched  an  express  to 
Lexington  for  assistance,  and  began  to  repair  the  palisades,  and  otherwise  to  put 
themselves  in  the  best  possible  posture  of  defense. 

The  more  experienced  of  the  garrison  felt  satisfied  that  a  powerful  party  was  in 
ambuscade  near  the  spring,  but  at  the  same  time,  they  supposed  that  the  Indians 
would  not  unmask  themselves  until  the  firing  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  fort 
was  returned  with  such  warmth  as  to  induce  the  belief  that  the  feint  had  suc 
ceeded.  Acting  upon  this  impression* and  yielding  to  the  urgent  necessity  of  the 
case,  they  summoned  all  the  women,  without  exception,  and  explaining  to  them  the 
circumstances  in  which  they  were  placed,  and  the  improbability  that  any  injury 
would  be  offered  them  until  the  firing  had  been  returned  from  the  opposite  side  of 
the  fort,  they  urged  them  to  go  in  a  body  to  the  spring  and  each  to  bring  up  a 
bucket  full  of  water.  Some  of  the  ladies  had  no  relish  for  the  undertaking,  and 
asked  why  the  men  could  not  bring  water  as  well  as  themselves  ?  observing  that 
they  were  not  bullet-proof,  and  that  the  Indians  made  no  distinction  between  male 
and  female  scalps.  To  this  it  was  answered,  that  the  women  were  in  the  habit  of 
bringing  water  every  morning  to  the  fort,  and  that  if  the  Indians  saw  them  engaged 
&s  usual,  it  would  induce  them  to  believe  that  their  ambuscade  was  undiscovered, 
and  that  they  would  not  unmask  themselves  for  the  sake  of  firing  upon  a  few 
women,  when  they  hoped,  by  remaining  concealed  a  few  moments  longer,  to  obtain 
complete  possession  of  the  fort.  That  if  men  should  go  down  to  the  spring  the  In 
dians  would  immediately  suspect  that  something  was  wrong,  would  despair  of  suc 
ceeding  by  ambuscade,  and  would  instantly  rush  upon  them,  follow  them  into  the 
fort,  or  shoot  them  down  at  the  spring.  The  decision  was  soon  over.  A  few  of 
the  boldest  declared  their  readiness  to  brave  the  danger,  and  the  younger  and  more 
timid  rallying  in  the  rear  of  these  veterans,  they  all  marched  down  in  a  body  to 
the  spring,  within  point  blank  shot  of  five  hundred  Indian  warriors!  Some  of  the 
girls  could  not  help  betraying  symptoms  of  terror,  but  the  married  women,  in  gen 
eral,  moved  with  a  steadiness  and  composure  which  completely  deceived  the  In 
dians.  Not  a  shot  was  fired.  The  party  were  permitted  to  fill  their  buckets  one 
after  another,  without  interruption,  and  although  their  steps  became  quicker  and 
quicker  on  their  return,  and  when  near  the  fort  degenerated  into  a  rather  unmili- 
tary  celerity,  attended  with  some  little  crowding  at  the  gate,  yet  not  more  than  one 
fifth  of  the  water  was  spilled. 

When  an  ample  supply  of  water  had  been  thus  obtained,  and  the  neglected  de 
fenses  completed,  a  party  of  thirteen  men  sallied  out  in  the  direction  in  which  the 
assault  had  been  made.  They  were  fired  on  by  the  savages,  and  driven  again  within 
the  palisades,  but  without  sustaining  any  loss  of  life.  Immediately  the  five  hun 
dred  on  the  opposite  side  rushed  to  the  assault  of  what  they  deemed  the  unpro 
tected  side  of  the  fort,  without  entertaining  any  doubts  of  their  success.  A  well 
directed  fire,  however,  put  them  promptly  to  flight.  Some  of  the  more  daring  and 
desperate  approached  near  enough  with  burning  arrows  to  fire  the  houses,  one  or 
two  of  which  were  burned,  but  a  favorable  wind  drove  the  flames  away  from  the 


KENTUCKY.  7_ 

mass  of  the  buildings,  and  the  station  escaped  the  danger  threatened  from  this 
source.  A  second  assault  from  the  great  l/ody  of  the  Indians,  was  repelled  with 
the  same  vigor  and  success  as  the  first. 

Disappointed  of  their  object  thus  far,  the  assailants  retreated,  and  concealed 
themselves  under  the  bank  of  the  creek  to  await  and  intercept  the  arrival  of  the 
assistance  which  they  were  well  aware  was  on  its  way  from  Lexington.  The  ex 
press  from  Bryant's  Station  reached  that  town  without  difficulty,  but  found  its 
male  inhabitants  had  left  there  to  aid  in  the  defense  of  Holder's  Station,  which 
was  reported  to  be  attacked.  Following  their  route,  he  overtook  them  at  Boone* 
borough,  and  sixteen  mounted  men,  with  thirty  on  foot,  immediately  retraced  their 
steps  for  the  relief  of  the  besieged  at  Bryant's.  When  this  reinforcement  ap 
proached  the  fort,  the  firing  had  entirely  ceased,  no  enemy  was  visible,  and  the 
party  advanced  in  reckless  confidence  that  it  was  either  a  false  alarm,  or  that  the 
Indians  had  abandoned  the  siege.  Their  avenue  to  the  garrison  was  a  lane  be 
tween  two  cornfields,  which  growing  rank  and  thick  formed  an  effectual  hiding 
place  to  the  Indians  even  at  the  distance  of  a  few  yards.  The  line  of  ambush  ex> 
tended  on  both  sides  nearly  six  hundred  yards.  Providentially  it  was  in  the  heat 
of  midsummer,  and  dry  accordingly,  and  the  approach  of  the  horsemen  raised  a 
cloud  of  dust  so  thick  as  to  compel  the  enemy  to  fire  at  random,  and  the  whites 
happily  escaped  without  losing  a  man.  The  footmen,  on  hearing  the  firing  in 
front,  dispersed  amidst  the  corn,  in  hopes  of  reaching  the  garrison  unobserved. 
Here  they  were  intercepted  by  the  savages,  who  threw  themselves  between  them 
and  the  fort,  and  but  for  the  luxuriant  growth  of  corn  they  must  all  have  been  shot 
down.  As  it  was,  two  men  were  killed  and  four  wounded  of  the  party  on  foot,  be 
fore  it  succeeded  in  making  its  way  into  the  fort. 

Thus  reinforced,  the  garrison  felt  assured  of  safety,  while  in  the  same  measure 
the  assailing  party  began  to  despair  of  success. 

One  expedient  remained,  which  was  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  intimidating 
the  brave  spirits  who  were  gathered  for  the  defense  of  their  wives  and  little  ones. 
As  the  shades  of  evening  approached,  Girty,  who  commanded  the  party,  addressed 
the  inmates  of  the  fort.  Mounting  a  stump,  from  wrhich  he  could  be  distinctly 
heard,  with  a  demand  for  the  surrender  of  the  place,  he  assured  the  garrison  that  a 
reinforcement  with  cannon  would  arrive  that  night,  that  the  station  must  fall,  that  he 
could  assure  them  of  protection  if  they  surrendered,  but  could  not  restrain  the 
Indians  if  they  carried  the  fort  by  storm;  adding,  he  supposed  they  knew  who  it 
was  that  thus  addressed  them.  A  young  man,  named  Reynolds,  fearing  the  effect 
which  the  threat  of  cannon  might  have  on  the  minds  of  the  defending  party,  with 
the  fate  of  Martin's  and  Ruddle's  Stations  fresh  in  their  memories,  left  no  oppor 
tunity  for  conference,  by  replying  instantly,  that  he  knew  him  well,  and  held  him 
in  such  contempt  that  he  had  called  a  good  for  nothing  dog  he  had  by  the  name 
of  Simon  Girty.  '  Know  you,'  added  he,  '  we  all  know  you  for  a  renegade  cowardly 
villain,  that  delights  in  murdering  women  and  children  ?  Wait  until  morning, 
and  you  will  find  on  what  side  the  reinforcements  are.  We  expect  to  leave  not 
one  of  your  cowardly  souls  alive,  and  if  you  are  caught,  our  women  shall  whip  you 
to  death  with  hickory  switches.  Clear  out,  you  cut-throat  villain.'  Some  of  the 

Kentuckians  shouted  out,  '  Shoot  the  d d  rascal !  '  and  Girty  was  glad  to  retreat 

Dut  of  the  range  of  their  rifles  lest  some  one  of  the  garrison  might  be  tempted  to 
adopt  the  advice. 

The  night  passed  away  in  uninterrupted  tranquillity,  and  at  daylight  in  the  morn 
ing  the  Indian  camp  was  found  deserted.  Fires  were  still  burning  brightly,  and 
several  pieces  of  meat  were  left  upon  their  roasting  sticks,  from  which  it  was  in 
ferred  that  they  had  retreated  just  before  daybreak. 

Battle  of  the  Blue  Licks.— Early  in  the  day  reinforcements  began  to  drop  in, 
and  by  noon  167  men  were  assembled  at  Bryant's  Station,  among  whom  were  Cols. 
Boone"  Todd,  and  Trigg;  Majors  Harland,  McBride,  M'Gary,  and  Levy  Todd;  and 
Captains  Bulzer  and  Gordon;  of  the  last  six  named,  except  Todd  and  M'Gary,  all 
fell  in  the  subsequent  battle.  A  tumultuous  conversation  ensued,  and  it  was  unan 
imously  resolved  to  pursue  the  enemy  forthwith,  notwithstanding  that  they  were 
three  to  one  in  numbers.  The  Indians,  contrary  to  their  usual  custom,  left  a  broad 
and  obvious  trail,  and  manifested  a  willingness  '  to  be  pursued.  Notwithstanding, 


78  KENTUCKY. 

such  was  the  impetuosity  of  the  Kentuckians,  that  they  overlooked  these  consid 
orations,  and  hastened  on  with  fatal  resolution,  most  of  them  being  mounted. 

The  next  day,  about  noon,  they  came,  for  the  first  time,  in  view  of  the  enemy 
at  the  Lower  Blue  Licks.  A  number  of  Indians  were  seen  ascending  the  rocky 
ridge  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Licking.  They  halted  upon  the  appearance  of 
the  Kentuckians,  and  gazed  at  them  a  few  moments,  and  then  calmly  and  leisurely 
disappeared  over  the  top  of  the  hill.  An  immediate  halt  ensued.  A  dozen  or 
twenty  officers  met  in  front  of  the  ranks  and  entered  into  a  consultation.  The 
wild  and  lonely  aspect  of  the  country  around  them,  their  distance  from  any  point 
of  support,  with  the  certainty  of  their  being  in  the  presence  of  a  superior  enemy, 
seems  to  have  inspired  a  portion  of  seriousness  bordering  upon  awe.  All  eyes 
were  now  turned  upon  Boone,  and  Col.  Todd  asked  his  opinion  as  to  what  should 
be  done.  The  veteran  woodsman,  with  his  usual  unmoved  gravity,  replied: 

That  their  situation  was  critical  and  delicate;  that  the  force  opposed  to  them 
was  undoubtedly  numerous  and  ready  for  battle,  as  might  readily  be  seen  from  the 
leisurely  retreat  of  the  few  Indians  who  had  appeared  on  the  crest  of  the  hill;  that 
he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Lick,  and  was 
apprehensive  that  an  ambuscade  was  formed  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  in  advance, 
where  two  ravines,  one  upon  each  side  of  the  ridge,  ran  in  such  a  manner  that  a 
concealed  enemy  might  assail  them  at  once  both  in  front  and  flank,  before  they 
were  apprised  of  the  danger. 

It  would  be  proper,  therefore,  to  do  one  of  two  things.  Either  to  await  the  arri 
val  of  Logan,  who  was  now  undoubtedly  on  his  march  to  join  them,  with  a  strong 
force  from  Lincoln,  or,  if  it  was  determined  to  attack  without  delay,  that  one  half 
of  their  number  should  march  up  the  river,  which  there  bends  in  an  elliptical  form, 
cross  at  the  rapids  and  fall  upon  the  rear  of  the  enemy,  while  the  other  division 
attacked  in  front.  At  any  rate,  he  strongly  urged  the  necessity  of  reconnoitering 
the  ground  carefully  before  the  main  body  crossed  the  river. 

Boone  was  heard  in  silence  and  with  deep  attention.  Some  wished  to  adopt  the 
first  plan;  others  preferred  the  second ;  and  the  discussion  threatened  to  be  drawn 
out  to  some  length,  when  the  boiling  ardor  of  M'Gary,  who  could  never  endure  the 
presence  of  an  enemy  without  instant  battle,  stimulated  him  to  an  act,  which  had 
nearly  proved  destructive  to  his  country.  He  suddenly  interrupted  the  consulta 
tion  with  a  loud  whoop,  resembling  the  war-cry  of  the  Indians,  spurred  his  horse 
into  the  stream,  waved  his  hat  over  his  head,  and  shouted  aloud:  'Let  all  who  are 
not  cowards  follow  me ! '  The  words  and  the  action  together,  produced  a  i  electri 
cal  effect.  The  mounted  men  dashed  tumultuously  into  the  river,  each  striving  to 
be  foremost.  The  footmen  were  mingled  with  them  in  one  rolling  and  irregular 
mass. 

No  order  was  given,  and  none  observed.  They  struggled  through  a  deep  ford  ae» 
well  as  they  could,  M'Gary  still  leading  the  van,  closely  followed  by  Majors  Har 
land  and  McBride.  With  the  same  rapidity  they  ascended  the  ridge,  which,  by 
the  trampling  of  Buffalo  foragers,  had  been  stripped  bare  of  all  vegetation,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  dwarfish  cedars,  and  which  was  rendered  still  more  desolate 
in  appearance,  by  the  multitude  of  rocks,  blackened  by  the  sun,  which  was  spread 
over  its  surface. 

Suddenly  the  van  halted.  They  had  reached  the  spot  mentioned  by  Boone, 
where  the  two  ravines  head,  on  each  side  of  the  ridge.  Here  a  body  of  Indians 
presented  themselves,  and  attacked  the  van.  M'Gary's  party  instantly  returned 
the  fire,  but  under  great  disadvantage.  They  were  upon  a  bare  and  oppn  ridge; 
the  Indians  in  a  bushy  ravine.  The  center  and  rear,  ignorant  of  the  ground,  hur 
ried  up  to  the  assistance  of  the  van,  but  were  soon  stopped  by  a  terrible  fire  from 
the  ravine,  which  flanked  them.  They  found  themselves  inclosed  as  if  in  the  wings 
of  a  net,  destitute  of  proper  shelter,  while  the  enemy  were,  in  a  great  measure, 
covered  from  their  fire.  Still,  however,  they  maintained  their  ground.  The  action 
became  warm  and  bloody.  The  parties  gradually  closed,  the  Indians  emerged 
from  the  ravine,  and  the  fire  became  mutually  destructive.  The  officers  suffered 
dreadfully.  Todd  and  Trigg,  in  the  rear;  Harland,  McBride,  and  young  Boone,  in 
front,  were  already  killed. 

The  Indians  gradually  extended  their  line,  to  turn  the  right  of  the  Kentuckians, 


KENTUCKY.  79 

and  cut  off  their  retreat.  This  was  quickly  perceived  by  the  weight  of  the  fire 
from  that  quarter,  and  the  rear  instantly  fell  back  in  disorder,  and  attempted  to 
rush  through  their  only  opening  to  the  river.  The  motion  quickly  communicated 
itself  to  the  van,  and  a  hurried  retreat  became  general.  The  Indians  instantly 
sprung  forward  in  pursuit,  and  falling  upon  them  with  their  tomahawks,  made  "a 
cruel  slaughter.  From  the  battle  ground  to  the  river,  the  spectacle  was  terrible. 
The  horsemen  generally  escaped,  but  the  foot,  particularly  the  van,  which  had  ad 
vanced  farthest  within  the  wings  of  the  net,  were  almost  totally  destroyed.  CoL 
Boone,  after  witnessing  the  death  of  his  son  and  many  of  his  dearest  friends, 
found  himself  almost  entirely  surrounded  at  the  very  commencement  of  the  ro- 
treat. 

Several  hundred  Indians  were  between  him  and  the  ford,  to  which  the  great 
mass  of  the  fugitives  were  bending  their  flight,  and  to  which  the  attention  of  the 
savages  was  principally  directed.  Being  intimately  acquainted  with  the  ground, 
he,  together  with  a  few  friends,  dashed  into  the  ravine  which  the  Indians  had  occu 
pied,  but  which  most  of  them  had  now  left  to  join  in  the  pursuit.  After  sustaining 
one  or  two  heavy  fires,  and  baffling  one  or  two  small  parties,  who  pursued  him  for 
a  short  distance,  he  crossed  the  river  below  the  ford,  by  swimming,  and  entering 
the  wood  at  a  point  where  there  was  no  pursuit,  returned  by  a  circuitous  route  to 
Bryant's  Station.  In  the  meantime,  the  great  mass  of  the  victors  and  vanquished 
crowded  the  bank  of  the  ford. 

The  slaughter  was  great  in  the  river.  The  ford  was  crowded  with  horsemen  and 
foot  and  Indians,  all  mingled  together.  Some  were  compelled  to  seek  a  passage 
above  by  swimming;  some,  who  could  not  swim,  were  overtaken  and  killed  at  the 
edge  of  the  water.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Netherland,  who  had  formerly  been 
strongly  suspected  of  cowardice,  here  displayed  a  coolness  and  presence  of  mind, 
equally  noble  and  unexpected. 

Being  among  the  first  in  gaining  the  opposite  bank,  he  then  instantly  checked 
his  horse,  and  in  a  loud  voice,  called  upon  his  companions  to  halt,  fire  upon  the 
Indians,  and  save  those  who  were  still  in  the  stream.  The  party  instantly  obeyed, 
and  facing  about,  poured  a  close  and  fatal  discharge  of  rifles  upon  the  foremost  of 
the  pursuers.  The  enemy  instantly  fell  back  from  the  opposite  bank,  and  gave 
time  for  the  harrassed  and  miserable  footmen  to  cross  in  safety.  The  check,  how 
ever,  was  but  momentary.  Indians  were  seen  crossing  in  great  numbers  above  and 
beloAV,  and  the  flight  again  became  general.  Most  of  the  foot  left  the  great  buffalo 
track,  and  plunging  into  the  thickets,  escaped  by  a  circuitous  route  to  Bryant's 
Station. 

But  little  loss  was  sustained  after  crossing  the  river,  although  the  pursuit  was 
urged  keenly  for  twenty  miles.  From  the  battle-ground  to  the  ford,  the  loss  was 
very  heavy;  and  at  that  stage  of  the  retreat,  there  occurred  a  rare  and  striking  in 
stance  of  magnanimity,  which  it  would  be  criminal  to  omit.  The  reader  could  not 
have  forgotten  young  Reynolds,  who  replied  with  such  rough  but  ready  humor  to 
the  pompous  summons  of  Girty,  at  the  siege  of  Bryant's.  This  young  man,  after 
bearing  his  share  in  the  action  with  distinguished  gallantry,  was  galloping  with 
several  other  horsemen  in  order  to  reach  the  ford.  The  great  body  of  fugitives 
had  preceded  them,  and  their  situation  was  in  the  highest  degree  critical  and  dan 
gerous. 

About  half  way  between  the  battle-ground  and  the  river,  the  party  overtook 
Capt.  Patterson,  on  foot,  exhausted  by  the  rapidity  of  the  flight,  and  in  consequence 
of  former  wounds  received  from  the  Indians,  so  infirm  as  to  be  unable  to  keep  up 
with  the  main  body  of  the  men  on  foot.  The  Indians  were  close  behind  him,  and 
his  fate  seemed  inevitable.  Reynolds,  upon  coming  up  with  this  brave  officer,  in 
stantly  sprung  from  his  horse,  aided  Patterson  to  mount  into  the  saddle,  and  con 
tinued  his  own  flight  on  foot.  Being  remarkably  active  and  vigorous,  he  contrived 
to  elude  his  pursuers,  and  turning  oiff  from  the  main  road,  plunged  into  the  river 
near  the  spot  where  Boone  had  crossed,  and  swam  in  safety  to  the  opposite  side. 
Unfortunately  he  wore  a  pair  of  buckskin  breeches,  which  had  become  so  heavy 
and  full  of  water  as  to  prevent  his  exerting  himself  with  his  usual  activity,  and 
while  sitting  down  for  the  purpose  of  pulling  them  off,  he  was  overtaken  by  a  party 
of  Indians,  and  made  prisoner. 


80 


KENTUCKY. 


A  prisoner  is  rarely  put  to  death  by  the  Indians,  unless  wounded  or  infirm,  until 
i.hey  return  to  their  own  country;  and  then  his  fate  is  decided  in  solemn  council. 
Young  Reynolds,  therefore,  was  treated  kindly,  and  compelled  to  accompany  his 
captors  in  the  pursuit.  A  small  party  of  Kentuckians  soon  attracted  their  atten 
tion;  and  he  was  left  in  charge  of  three  Indians,  who,  eager  in  pursuit,  in  turn 
committed  him  to  the  charge  of  one  of  their  number,  while  they  followed  their 
companions.  Reynolds  and  his  guard  jogged  along  very  leisurely;  the  former  to 
tally  unarmed;  the  latter,  with  a  tomahawk  and  rifle  in  his  hands.  At  length  the 
Jndian  stopped  to  tie  his  moccasin,  when  Reynolds  instantly  sprung  upon  him, 
knocked  him  down  with  his  fist,  and  quickly  disappeared  in  the  thicket  which  sur 
rounded  them.  For  his  act  of  generosity,  Capt.  Patterson  afterward  made  him  a 
present  of  two  hundred  acres  of  first  rate  land. 

The  melancholy  intelligence  rapidly  spread  throughout  the  country,  and  the 
whole  land  was  covered  with  mourning,  for  it  was  the  severest  loss  that  Kentucky 
had  ever  experienced  in  Indian  warfare.  Sixty  Kentuckians  were  slain  and  a 
number  taken  prisoners.  The  loss  of  the  Indians,  while  the  battle  lasted,  was  also 
considerable,  though  far  inferior  to  that  of  the  whites. 

On  the  very  day  of  the  battle,  Col.  Logan  arrived  at  Bryant's  Station  with  four 
hundred  and  fifty  men.  Fearful  of  some  disaster,  he  inarched  on  with  the  utmost 
diligence,  and  soon  met  the  foremost  of  the  fugitives.  Learning  from  them  the  sad 
tidings,  he  continued  on,  hoping  to  come  up  with  the  enemy  at  the  field  of  battle 
which  he  reached  on  the  second  day.  The  enemy  were  gone,  but  the  bodies  of  the 
Kentuckians  still  lay  unburied  on  the  spot  where  they  had  fallen.  Immense  flocks 
of  buzzards  were  soaring  over  the  battle  ground,  and  the  bodies  of  the  dead  had 
become  so  much  swollen  and  disfigured  that  it  was  impossible  to  recognize  the 
features  of  the  most  particular  friends.  Many  corpses  were  floating  nearlthe  shore 
of  the  northern  bank,  already  putrid  from  the  fiction  of  the  sun,  and  partially  eaten 
by  fishes.  The  whole  were  carefully  collected  by  Col.  Logan,  and  interred  as  de 
cently  as  the  nature  of  the  soil  would  permit." 


South-western  view  of  Lexington  Court  House. 

LEXINGTON,  the  county  seat  of  Fayette  county,  is  a  remarkably  neat  and 
beautiful  city,  situated  on  a  branch  of  Elkhorn  River,  25  miles  S.E.  from 
Frankfort,  85  from  Cincinnati,  77  S.E.  from  Louisville,  and  517  from  Wash 
ington  City.  The  streets  of  Lexington  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  well 
paved,  and  bordered  with  ornamental  trees.  Many  of  the  private  residences 
and  several  of  the  public  edifices  are  fine  specimens  of  architectural  taste, 
while  the  surrounding  country,  rich  and  highly  cultivated,  is  adorned  with 
elegant  mansions.  The  city  contains  a  court  house,  a  Masonic  Hall,  the 
State  Lunatic  Asylum,  12  churches,  the  Transylvania  University,  several 
academies  and  an  orphan  asylum.  It  is  celebrated  throughout  the  Union  for 


KENTUCKY. 

ol 

its  intelligent  and  polished  society,  and  as  an  elegant  place  of  residence 
Population  about  12,000. 

Lexington  was  founded  in  1776.  About  the  first  of  April  in  this  year,  a 
block  house  was  built  here,  and  the  settlement  commenced  under  the  influ 
ence  of  Col.  Robert  Patterson,  joined  by  the  Messrs.  McConnels,  Lindseys, 
and  James  Masterson.  Maj.  John  Morrison  removed  his  family  soon  after 
from  Harrodsburg,  and  his  wife  was  the  first  white  woman  in  the  infant  set 
tlement.  It  appears  that  a  party  of  hunters  in  1775,  while  encamped  on 
the  spot  where  Lexington  is  now  built,  heard  of  the  first  conflict  between  the 
British  and  Provincial  forces,  at  Lexington,  Mass.  In  commemoration  of 
this  event,  they  called  the  place  of  their  encampment  Lexington. 

Transylvania  University,  the  oldest  college  in  the  state,  was  established  in 
1798,  and  has  departments  of  law  and  medicine.  The  medical  school  has 
eight  professors.  Connected  with  the  institution  is  a  fine  museum  and  a  very 
valuable  library,  with  chemical  apparatus,  etc.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  lo 
cated  here  is  a  noble  institution.  Lexington  was  incorporated  by  Virginia  in 
1782,  and  was  for  several  years  the  seat  of  government  of  the  state.  The 
"Kentucky  Gazette'1  was  established  here  in  1787,  by  the  brothers  John  and 
Fielding  Bradford,  and,  excepting  the  Pittsburg  Gazette,  is  the  oldest  paper 
west  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains. 

Ashland,  the  home  of  HENRY  CLAY,  is  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from 
Lexington.  Mr.  Clay  lived  at  Ashland  between  forty  and  fifty  years.  His 

house  was  a  modest,  spacious, 
agreeable  mansion,  two  sto 
ries  high.  Since  the  death 
of  Mr.  Clay,  this  building 
having  become  somewhat 
dilapidated  and  insecure,  his 
son,  James  B.  Clay,  Esq., 
had  it  taken  down  and  a 
more  elegant  edifice  erected 
upon  the  same  spot,  and  with 
but  slight  modifications  of 
the  original  plan.  Mr.  Clay 
has  many  interesting  relics 

ASHLAND,  RESIDENCE  OF  HENRY  CLAT.  °f  his  father>  wj"?h  a[e  Care' 

fully  preserved  in  the  new 

building.  The  estate,  consisting  of  about  600  acres,  bore  the  name  of  Ash 
land  before  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Mr.  Clay,  probably  on  account  of 
the  ash  timber,  with  which  it  abounds.  .  By  Mr.  C.'s  management,  it  became 
one  of  the  most  delightful  retreats  in  the  west;  the  whole  tract,  except  about 
200  acres  of  park,  was  under  the  highest  state  of  cultivation.  When  its 
illustrious  occupant  was  living,  it  was  the  abode  of  elegant  hospitality,  and 
thousands  then  annually  thronged  thither  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  states 
man,  who  had  such  a  hold  upon  the  affections  of  his  countrymen  that,  when 
he  was  defeated  for  the  presidency,  an  intensity  of  sorrow*  was  every  where 

*A  friend  tells  us  that  he  recollects  attending,  in  a  distant  New  England  city,  an  im^ 
promptu  political  meeting  which  had  gathered  in  a  public  hall  at  this  time.  Various 
speeches  of  condolence  had  been  made  by  those,  who,  in  their  ardor,  had  regarded  the  suc 
cess  of  their  candidate  as  identified  with  the  salvation  of  their  country,  when  an  aged  man, 
with  silvered  hair,  arose  to  offer  comfort  in  the  general  sorrow.  He  had  but  three  words  ; 
but,  Christian-like,  he  started  for  those  three  straightway  to  the  BIBLE.  He  raised  his  tall 
slender  form  to  its  full  hight,  with  palms  uplifted,  and  then  bowing  submissively,  uttered 
in  prayerful  tones — "  The  Lord  reigns!" 

6 


82  KENTUCKY. 

exhibited  that  never  was  equalled  by  any  similar  occurrence  in  the  history 
of  the  country.  A  stranger  in  the  place  not  long  subsequent,  thus  describes 
his  impressions  of  the  town  and  visit  to  Ashland: 

No  where  is  there  a  more  delightful  rural  tract  in  all  our  broad  land,  than  that 
part  of  this  state  in  the  vicinity  of  Lexington — the  celebrated  "blue  grass"  region 
of  Kentucky.  For  miles  and  miles,  in  every  direction,  it  is  bedecked  with  grace 
ful  curving  lawns,  wood  embowered  cottages,  and  tall  open  forests,  where  not  a 
shrub  rises  to  mar  the  velvety  sward  that  every  where  carpets  the  earth  in  living 
green.  Enter  the  dwellings,  and  you  will  find  them  the  abodes  of  elegance  and 
taste.  Your  reception  will  be  frank  and  hospitable.  The  town,  Lexington,  is  well 
worthy  of  the  country.  It  has  a  highly  cultivated  population,  institutions  of  liter 
ature,  elegant  mansions,  partly  concealed  in  groves  of  locusts,  whose  tiny  fragile 
leaves  gently  dance  in  the  sunlight  to  the  softest  zephyr,  and  is,  moreover,  the  home 
of  one  whose  very  name  holds  a  dear  place  in  our  memories. 

In  a  minor  street  of  this  beautiful  town,  is  a  plain  two  story  brick  edifice,  ovef 
the  doors  of  which  is  the  sign,  H.  &  J.  B.  CLAY.  One  morning,  a  few  weeks 
since,  I  entered  its  plainly  furnished  office,  and,  in  the  absence  of  its  occupants, 
helped  myself  to  a  chair  and  a  newspaper,  that  industrious  whig  sheet,  the  New 
York  Tribune.  In  a  few  minutes  in  walked  a  tall,  elderly  gentleman,  attired  in 
black  coat  and  white  pantaloons.  My  eyes  had  never  before  rested  upon  him,  but 
it  needed  not  a  second  glance  to  know  HENRY  CLAY:  I  presented  a  letter  of  intro 
duction,  upon  which,  after  some  little  conversation,  he  invited  me  out  to  tea  at  his 
seat,  Ashland,  some  twenty  minutes  walk  from  the  central  part  of  the  town.  At 
the  appointed  hour,  I  was  on  my  way  thither,  and  from  a  gate  on  the  roadside  ap 
proached  the  mansion  by  a  winding  path  of  maybe  thirty  rods  in  length.  It  stands 
on  a  smooth,  undulating  lawn  of  the  purest  green,  fringed  by  a  variety  of  trees. 
The  open  door  disclosed  to  my  view  two  elderly  ladies,  seated  in  one  of  the  three 
rooms  into  which  a  common  entry  led.  One  of  them,  Mrs.  Clay,  called  to  me  to 
walk  in,  and  directed  me  to  the  flower  garden  in  the  rear  of  the  house,  where  stood 
Judge  R.,  of  Ohio,  and  her  husband.  The  former,  as  I  was  introduced  by  Mr. 
Clay,  received  me  with  the  stiffness  of  the  north — the  latter  met  me  in  the  cordial, 
off  hand  manner  of  an  old  acquaintance.  He  then  showed  us  some  rare  plants, 
joked  with  his  little  grandchild,  and  we  entered  the  house.  Passing  through  the 
room  where  sat  his  lady  and  the  wife  of  the  judge,  he  pleasantly  said — "these 
ladies  have  some  conspiracy  together,  let  us  walk  into  the  parlor."  On  the  hearth 
was  an  elegant  rug,  with  the  words  worked  in  it,  "  PROTECTION  TO  AMERICAN  INDUS 
TRY  ;"  around  were  busts  and  paintings.  The  furniture  was  old  fashioned,  but 
rich,  and  an  air  of  comfort  pervaded  the  apartment.  Among  the  curiosities  shown 
us  by  Mr.  Clay,  was  the  identical  wine  glass  used  by  Washington  through  the  Rev 
olution. 

The  conversation  of  Mr.  Clay  is  frequently  anecdotical,  and  his  knowledge  of 
all  parts  of  our  country,  their  condition,  prospects  and  people,  renders  it  easy  foi 
him  to  adapt  himself  in  familiar  topics  to  the  great  variety  of  characters  that 
assemble  at  his  residence.  His  manner  is  one  of  entire  ease.  Taking  out  a  golden 
snuff  box,  he  drew  in  a  pinch  of  its  exhilarating  powder  with  an  air  of  solid  satis 
faction  ;  then  spreading  his  handkerchief  in  his  lap,  he  leaned  forward  his  whole 
body,  with  his  forearms  folded  and  resting  on  his  knees,  and  talked  with  us  in  the 
most  genial,  social  way,  like  a  fine,  fatherly,  old  country  gentleman — as,  indeed, 
he  is. 

Now  that  I  have  seen  Henry  Clay,  I  do  not  wonder  at  the  hold  he  has  upon  the 
affections  of  our  people.  Benevolence  is  the  strongest  expression  in  his  counte 
nance,  and  the  humblest  individual  can  not  but  feel,  in  his  presence,  as  much  at 
ease  as  if  by  his  own  fireside.  His  manner  is  irresistible:  such  as  would  enable 
him,  if  need  there  was,  to  say  disagreeable  things  in  a  way  that  would  occasion 
you  to  thank  him  for  it.  Literally,  his  is  the  power  to  give  "hard  facts  with  soft 
words." 

When  Henry  Clay  walks  the  streets  of  Lexington,  the  citizens  gaze  upon  him 
with  pride,  and  greet  him  with  pleasure.  A  kind  word  and  a  smile  he  has  for 
every  body,  no  matter  what  their  age,  sex,  or  condition;  and  little  children  run  up 


KENTUCKY. 


83 


to  take  him  by  the  hand,  with  a  "how  do  you  do,  Mr.  Clay?"     Mv  landlord  a 
Irishman  by  birth,  said  to  me,  "I  have  known  Mr.  Clay  for  many  y^ars  and  -^ 
opposed  to  him  in  politics ;  but  I  can  not  help  liking  the  man." 

The  corner  stone  of  the  Mon 
ument  erected  to  Henry  Clay,  in 
the  Lexington  Cemetery,  was 
laid  July  4,  1857,  with  imposing 
ceremonies,  and  the  structure 
completed  in  1858.  It  is  con 
structed  of  magnesian  lime 
stone,  obtained  from  Boone's 
Creek,  about  14  miles  distant. 
The  remains  of  Henry  Clay,  his 
mother,  and  some  other  rela 
tives,  are  to  be  deposited  in  the 
vaulted  chamber  in  the  base  of 
the  monument.  At  the  top  of 
the  column,  the  flutings  are  13 
spiked  spears,  representing  the 
original  states  of  the  Union. 
The  statue  of  Clay,  surmount 
ing  the  whole,  is  11  feet  in  hight. 
The  hight  of  the  monument 
from  the  ground  to  the  top  of 
the  statue  is  119  feet.  The  fol 
lowing  inscription  appears  on 
one  of  the  blocks  of  stone : 

"I  would  rather  be   right,  than  be 

President." 

National  Guard.  St.  Louis,  July  4th, 
1857. 


-„•  ...••••  -v*. 


HENRY  CLAY  MONUMENT. 

Situated  about  a  mile  from  the  central  part  of  Lexington, 
near  the  Railroad  from  Covington,  in  the  Lexington  Ceme 
tery. 


The  following  inscription  is  copied  from  the  monument  of  Maj.  Barry,  in 
the  public  square,  or  court  house  yard : 

To  the  memory  of  WILLIAM  TAYLOR  BARRY,  this  monument  is  erected  by  his  friends  in 
Kentucky  (the  site  being  granted  by  the  County  Court  of  Fayette),  as  a  testimony  of  their 
respect  and  admiration  of  his  virtues  and  talents.  He  was  born  5th  Feb.,  1784,  in  Lunen- 
burg  City,  Va.,  and  came  to  Kentucky  in  his  12th  year.  Was  successively  a  member  of 
both  Houses  of  the  General  Assembly,  a  Judge,  a  Senator  and  Representative  in  Congress, 
Lieut,  Gov.  of  Ky.,  and  an  Aidecamp  to  Gov.  Shelby  at  the  battle  of  the  Thames.  On  An 
drew  Jackson's  accession  to  the  Presidency,  he  was  called  to  his  Cabinet  as  Post  Master 
General,  which  office  he  held  until  1st  of  May,  1835,  when  he  was  appointed  Bnv.  Ex.  & 
Min.  Plen.  to  Spain.  He  was  elected  Hon'y  Member  of  the  French  Univ.  Stat.  Soc.,  in 
June,  1833.  He  died  at  Liverpool,  on  his  way  to  Madrid,  on  30th  Aug.,  1835.  His  body 
lies  on  Albion's  white  shores ;  his  Fame  in  the  History  of  his  Country,  and  is  as  immortal 
as  America's  Liberty  and  Glory. 


About  twenty  miles  south-east  of  Lexington,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Ken 
tucky  River,  is  the  small,  dilapidated  village  of  Boonesborough,  a  point  noted 
in  the  history  of  the  state.  It  was  here  that  Daniel  Boone,  the  great  pioneer, 
built  the  first  fort  ever  erected  in  Kentucky,  and  made  the  commencement  of 
a  permanent  settlement.  Here,  too,  was  convened  more  than  eighty  years 
ago  the  first  legislative  assembly  that  ever  sat  west  of  the  mountains,  the  leg 
islature  of  Transylvania,  the  history  of  which  is  as  follows : 

"Col.  Richard  Henderson,  a  man  of  ardent  temperament  and  great  talents,  formed 
the  most  extensive  speculation  ever  recorded  in  the  history  of  this  country.  "~" 


Hav- 


84 


KENTUCKY. 


ing  formed  a  company  for  that  purpose,  he  succeeded  in  negotiating,  with  the  head 
chiefs  of  the  Cherokee  nation,  a  treaty  (known  as  the  treaty  of  Watauga),  by  which 
all  that  tract  of  country  lying  between  the  Cumberland  Kiver,  the  mountains  of  the 
same  name,  and  the  Kentucky  River,  and  situated  south  of  the  Ohio,  was  transferred, 
for  a  reasonable  consideration,  to  the 
company.  By  this  treaty  Henderson 
and  his  associates  became  the  proprie 
tors  of  all  that  country  which  now  com 
prises  more  than  one  half  of  the  state 
of  Kentucky.  This  was  in  1775.  They 
immediately  proceeded  to  establish  a 
proprietory  government,  of  which  Hen 
derson  became  the  president,  and  which 
had  its  seat  at  Boonesborough.  The 
new  country  received  the  name  of  Tran 
sylvania.  The  first  legislature  assem 
bled  at  Boonesborough,  and  held  its  sit 
tings  under  the  shade  of  a  large  elm 
tree,  near  the  walls  of  the  fort.  It  was 
composed  of  Squire  Boone,  Daniel  Boone, 
William  Coke,  Samuel  Henderson,  Rich 
ard  Moore,  Richard  Galloway,  Thomas 
Slaughter,  John  Lythe,  Valentine  Har- 
monci,  James  Douglass,  James  Harrod, 
Nathan  Hammond,  Isaac  Hite,  Azariah 
Davis,  John  Todd,  Alexander  S.  Dan- 
dridge,  John  Floyd  and  Samuel  Wood. 
These  members  formed  themselves  into 
a  legislative  body,  by  electing  Thomas 
Slaughter  chairman  and  Matthew  Jew- 
ett  clerk.  This  cismontane  legislature, 
the  earliest  popular  body  that  assembled 

on  this  side  of  the  Apalachian  mountains,  was  addressed  by  Colonel  Henderson* 
on  behalf  of  himself  and  his  associates,  in  a  speech  of  sufficient  dignity  and  of  ex 
cellent  sense.  A  compact  was  entered  into  between  the  proprietors  and  the  colo 
nists,  by  which  a  free,  manly,  liberal  government  was  established  over  the  terri 
tory.  The  most  important  parts  of  this  Kentucky  Magna  Charta  were :  1st.  That 
the  election  of  delegates  should  be  annual.  2d.  Perfect  freedom  of  opinion  in  mat 
ters  of  religion.  3d.  That  judges  should  be  appointed  by  the  proprietors,  but  an 
swerable  for  mal-conduct  to  the  people;  and  that  the  convention  have  the  sole 
power  of  raising  and  appropriating  all  moneys  and  electing  their  treasurer.  Thia 
epitome  of  substantial  freedom  and  manly,  rational  government,  was  solemnly  ex 
ecuted  under  the  hands  and  seals  of  the  three  proprietors  acting  for  the  company, 
and  Thomas  Slaughter  acting  for  the  colonists.  The  purchase  of  Henderson  from 
the  Cherokees  was  afterward  annulled  by  act  of  the  Virginia  legislature,  as  being 
contrary  to  the  chartered  rights  of  that  state.  But,  as  some  compensation  for  the 
services  rendered  in  opening  the  wilderness,  and  preparing  the  way  for  civiliza 
tion,  the  legislature  granted  to  the  proprietors  a  tract  of  land  twelve  miles  square, 
on  the  Ohio,  below  the  mouth  of  Green  River."  * 

The  fort  at  Boonesborough  was  built  in  1775.  The  engraving  is  from  a 
drawing  by  Col.  Henderson.  The  structure  must  have  been  about  260  feet 

*Mr.  Henderson  was  born  in  Hanover  county,  Virginia,  in  1735.  When  a  boy  his  father 
removed  to  North  Carolina  and  became  county  sheriff,  and  the  son  obtained  much  of  his 
education  in  his  father's  office.  He  studied  law,  showed  talents  of  the  highest  order,  and 
was  elevated  to  the  bench  of  the  superior  court.  In  1779,  Judge  Henderson  was  appointed 
commissioner  to  extend  the  boundary  line  between  Virginia  and  North  Carolina  into  Pow 
ell's  Valley.  In  the  same  year  he  opened  an  office  at  French  Lick,  afterward  Nashville, 
for  the  sale  of  his  lands.  He  died  in  1785,  aged  50  years.  His  four  sons  studied  law  and 
attained  distinction. 


OLD  FOKT  AT  BOONESBOROUGH,  1775. 


KENTUCKY.  85 

long  and  150  feet  broad.  It  was  several  times  attacked  by  the  Indians  but 
always  unsuccessfully.  The  last  time  was  in  September  of  1778,  when  the 
enemy  appeared  in  great  force. 

"There  were  nearly  five  hundred  Indian  warriors,  armed  and  painted  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  what  was  still  more  formidable,  they  were  conducted  by  Canadian 
officers,  well  skilled  in  the  usages  of  modern  warfare.  As  soon  as  they  were  ar 
rayed  in  front  of  the  fort,  the  British  colors  were  displayed,  and  an  officer,  with  a 
flag,  was  sent  to  demand  the  surrender  of  the  fort,  with  a  promise  of  quarter  and 
good  treatment  in  case  of  compliance,  and  threatening  the  'hatchet'  in  case  of  a 
storm.  Boone  requested  two  days  for  consideration,  which,  in  defiance  of  all  ex 
perience  and  common  sense,  was  granted.  This  interval,  as  usual,  was  employed 
in  preparation  for  an  obstinate  resistance.  The  cattle  were  brought  into  the  fort, 
the  horses  secured,  and  all  things  made  ready  against  the  commencement  of  hos 
tilities. 

Boone  then  appeared  at  the  gate  of  the  fortress,  and  communicated  to  Capt.  Du- 

Saesne,  their  leader,  the  resolution  of  his  men  to  defend  the  fort  to  the  last  extremity, 
isappointment  and  chagrin  were  strongly  painted  upon  the  face  of  the  Canadian 
at  this  answer,  but  endeavoring  to  disguise  his  feelings,  he  declared  that  Gov.  Ham 
ilton  had  ordered  him  not  to  injure  the  men  if  it  could  be  avoided,  and  that  if  nine 
of  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  fort  would  come  out  and  treat  with  them  they 
would  instantly  depart  without  further  hostility. 

The  word  "treat '  sounded  so  pleasantly  in  the  ears  of  the  besieged  that  they 
agreed  at  once  to  the  proposal,  and  Boone  himself,  attended  by  eight  of  his  men, 
went  out  and  mingled  with  the  savages,  who  crowded  around  them  in  great  num 
bers,  and  with  countenances  of  deep  anxiety.  The  treaty  then  commenced  and 
was  soon  concluded,  upon  which  Duquesne  informed  Boone  that  it  was  a  custom 
with  the  Indians,  upon  the  conclusion  of  a  treaty  with  the  whites,  for  two  warriors 
to  take  hold  of  the  hand  of  each  white  man. 

Boone  thought  this  rather  a  singular  custom,  but  there  was  no  time  to  dispute 
about  etiquette,  particularly,  as  he  could  not  be  more  in  their  power  than  he  al 
ready  was,  so  he  signified  his  willingness  to  conform  to  the  Indian  mode  of  ce 
menting  friendship.  Instantly,  two  warriors  approached  each  white  man,  with  the 
word  'brother'  upon  their  lips,  but  a  very  different  expression  in  their  eyes,  and 
grappling  him  with  violence,  attempted  to  bear  him  off.  They  probably  (unless 
totally  infatuated)  expected  such  a  consummation,  and  all  at  the  same  moment 
sprung  from  their  enemies  and  ran  to  the  fort,  under  a  heavy  fire,  which  fortunately 
only  wounded  one  man. 

The  attack  instantly  commenced  by  a  heavy  fire  against  the  picketing,  and  was 
returned  with  fatal  accuracy  by  the  garrison.  The  Indians  quickly  sheltered  them 
selves,  and  the  action  became  more  cautious  and  deliberate.  Finding  but  little 
effect  from  the  fire  of  his  men,  Duquesne  next  resorted  to  a  more  formidable  mode 
of  attack.  The  fort  stood  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  within  sixty  yards  of  the 
water.  Commencing  under  the  bank,  where  their  operations  were  concealed  from 
the  garrison,  they  attempted  to  push  a  mine  into  the  fort.  Their  object,  however, 
was  fortunately  discovered  by  the  quantity  of  fresh  earth  which  they  were  com 
pelled  to  throw  into  the  river,  and  by  which  the  water  became  muddy  for  some 
distance  below.  Boone,  who  had  regained  his  usual  sagacity,  instantly  cut  a  trench 
within  the  fort  in  such  a  manner  as  to  intersect  the  line  of  their  approach,  and 
thus  frustrated  their  design. 

The  enemy  exhausted  all  the  ordinary  artifices  of  Indian  warfare,  but  were 
steadily  repulsed  in  every  effort.  Finding  their  numbers  daily  thinned  by  the  de 
liberate  but  fatal  fire  of  the  garrison,  and  seeing  no  prospect  of  final  success,  they 
broke  up  on  the  ninth  day  of  the  siege,  and  returned  home.  The  loss  of  the  gar 
rison  was  two  men  killed  and  four  wounded.  On  the  part  of  the  savages,  thirty- 
seven  were  killed  and  many  wounded,  who,  as  usual,  were  all  carried  off." 

Danville,  county  seat  of  Boyle  county,  is  situated  in  a  fertile  district  of 
country,  on  a  small  branch  of  the  Kentucky  River,  40  miles  south  from  Frank 
fort  and  35  from  Lexington.  It  contains  9  churches,  2  banks,  the  Kentucky 


86 


KENTUCKY. 


Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  (an  elegant" building),  several  mills  and  fac 
tories,  and  about  2,500  inhabitants.  Center  College,  chartered  in  1819,  is  lo 
cated  here;  the  Rev.  Dr.  Chamberlain  became  its  first  president  in  1823. 
There  are  also  here  2  female  academies  and  a  theological  institute.  The 
town  was  laid  out  by  Walker  Daniel,  who  gave  it  its  name;  it  was  established 
by  the  legislature  in  1787,  and  was  for  many  years  the  seat  of  government 
for  Kentucky.  The  first  court  house  and  jail  in  the  limits  of  Kentucky  were 
erected  here,  and  here  the  first  constitution  of  state  government  was  formed. 
Paris,  Shelbyville,  Cynthiana,  Versailles,  Carrolton,  Georgetown  and  Bards- 
town  are  all  important  towns  in  this  part  of  the  state,  the  largest  of  which 
has  a  population  of  2,500.  That  well  known  Catholic  institution,  St.  Jo 
seph's  College,  is  at  Bardstown,  and  Georgetown  College  is  at  Georgetown. 
Paducah,  the  seat  of  justice  for  McCracken  county,  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Tennessee  River,  is  an  important  shipping  port,  347  miles  below  Louis 
ville.  It  is  a  place  of  active  business,  and  a  great  amount  of  agricultural 
products  are  brought  down  the  Tennessee  River  to  this  place,  consisting  of 
tobacco,  pork,  live  stock,  etc.,  it  being  the  depot  for  the  product  of  the  valley 

of  that  stream.  It 
has  large  ware 
houses,  2  banks, 
10  churches,  a 
large  number  of 
stores,  and  about 
5,000  inhabitants. 
It  was  laid  out  in 
1827  by  General 
William  Clark,  of 
St.  Louis,  brother 
of  Gen.  George 
Rogers  Clark, 
and  named  after 
the  Indian  chief 

Paducah,  who  once  resided  in  this  region.  The  town  is  substantially  built, 
and  has  a  very  thriving  appearance,  being  the  largest  and  most  important 
place  in  Kentucky  west  of  Louisville.  Hon.  Linn  Boyd  resided  in  this  vi 
cinity,  where  he  died  in  1859.  He  was  speaker  of  the  house  of  representa 
tives  from  1851  to  1855,  and  in  1852  was  prominent  as  a  candidate  of  the 
democratic  party  for  the  nomination  for  the  presidency. 

Henderson,  capital  of  Henderson  county,  12  miles  below  Evansville  and 
210  below  Louisville,  is  the  principal  shipping  point  on  the  Ohio  for  the  to 
bacco,  corn  and  other  rich  products  of  the  fertile  valley  of  Green  River.  It 
is  a  thriving  business  town,  and  has  about  3,000  inhabitants.  Smithland, 
on  the  Ohio,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Cumberland,  is  a  point  for  the  re- 
shipment  of  goods  up  that  river.  Owemboro,  capital  of  Daviess  county,  155 
miles  below  Louisville,  on  the  Ohio;  Hic.kman,  capital  of  Fulton  county,  on 
the  Mississippi,  35  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  in  the  extreme  south 
western  corner  of  the  state,  are  both  busy  towns,  each  having  about  2,500  in 
habitants.  Bowling  Green,  flopkinsvUle  and  Russelville  are  county  seats  and 
important  interior  towns  in  Lower  Kentucky,  with  each  from  2,000  to  3,000 
inhabitants.  Columbus,  a  village  of  about  1,200  inhabitants,  on  the  Missis 
sippi,  25  miles  below  Cairo,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Mobile  and  Ohio  Rail 
road.- 


LANDING  AT  PADUCAH. 


KENTUCKY. 


87 


BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCHES,  MISCELLANIES,  ETC. 

Kentucky,  next  to  Virginia,  is  the  greatest  tobacco  producing  state  in  the 
Union.  The  statistics  of  1850  gave  her  total  product  at  55J  millions  of 
pounds,  while  that  of  Virginia  exceeded  it  but  a  little  over  a  million.  The 
plant  is  most  extensively  cultivated  in  western  Kentucky,  in  the  Green 
River  country  and  vicinity;  and  the  greatest  tobacco  raising  county  is  Chris 
tian,  the  annual  yield  of 
which  is  six  millions  of 
pounds.  This  part  of 
the  state  was  much  set 
tled  by  Virginians,  who 
followed  out  the  general 
law  of  emigrants,  of  es- 
pecially  cultivating 
those  crops  to  which 
they  had  been  accus 
tomed  on  the  soil  of 
their  birth. 

"It  is  a  curious  fact  in 
the  history  of  tobacco  that 
the  exports  from  this 
country  have  varied  but 
very  little  in  the  last  fifty 
years;  in  1790,  our  coun 
try,  in  round  numbers, 
sent  abroad  one  hundred 
and  eighteen  thousand 
hogsheads;  in  1840,  one 
hundred  and  nineteen 
thousand.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  curious  facts  de 
veloped  in  statistics,  and 
may  probably  be  directly 
traced  to  the  fact  that  the 
population  and  wealth  of 
European  countries  have 
not  increased,  and  that 
the  duties  levied  upon  ita 
introduction  are  as  high 
as  can  possibly  be  borne. 
No  article  of  commerce 

A  TOBACCO  PLANTATION.  PayS  a  d W  ?<?  enormous, 

compared  with  ite   home 

price,  as  American  tobacco.  From  it  is  derived  an  important  j>art  of  the  revenue  of 
almost  every  European  government.  In  Great  Britain,  the  import  duty  is  three 
shillings  sterling  (seventy-five  cents)  per  pound— about  twelve  hundred  per  cent, 
upon  the  original  cost — and  two  dollars  per  pound  on  manufactured  tobacco ;  thus  for 
what  her  people  give  us  less  than  two  millions  of  dollars  they  pay  to  their  own  govern 
ment,  for  the  privilege  of  using  it,  twenty-two  millions  of  dollars,  which  is  twice  the 
sum  realized  by  the  American  producer  for  all  the  tobacco  exported  to  every  part 


88  KENTUCKY. 

of  the  world!  As  might  be  supposed,  the  most  stringent  laws  govern  its  introduc 
tion  into  that  country,  and  a  large  fleet  of  ships  and  a  heavy  marine  are  supported 
to  detect  smugglers  who  alone  traffic  in  this  article.  It  is  therefore  not  surprising 
that  among  all  the  wonders  of  London,  and  all  the  creations  of  that  great  Babylon 
dedicated  to  commerce,  few  are  so  remarkable  as  the  government  warehouses  used 
for  bonding  or  storing  tobacco.  Their  interiors  present  such  vast  areas  of  ground 
that  they  become  bewildering  to  the  eye,  and  they  never  had  any  rivals  in  size  until 
the  erection  of  the  Crystal  Palace.  Almost  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  are  alleys 
of  hogsheads,  whose  number  is  immense.  In  all  convenient  places  are  large  scales 
for  weighing,  .together  with  other  apparatus  connected  with  the  operation  of  exam 
ining  the  staple.  ' 

The  amount  of  the  present  production  of  tobacco  is  about  two  hundred  millions 
of  pounds.  The  home  consumption  is  increasing  faster  than  the  population.  Its 
use  is  most  detrimental  to  our  people  by  increasing  their  mental  activity  at  the  ex 
pense  of  their  bodies,  through  its  continual  strain  upon  the  nervous  system  and 
weakening  of  the  appetite  and  digestive  organs.  It  is  at  the  seasons  of  greatest  ex 
citement  that  he  who  uses  the  plant  is  certain  to  do  so  in  unwonted  quantities.  A 
young  volunteer,  relating  his  experience  at  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  truthfully 
remarked,  though  in  coarse  phrase,  "Our  boys  chawed  lots  of  tobacco  that  day!" 
So  fascinating  the  habit,  that  few  can  break  from  it;  and  he  who  succeeds  should 
be  more  honored  than  he  who  storms  a  battery.  Multitudes  essay  the  trial;  gener 
ally,  they  only  make  the  good  resolution  at  the  precise  moment  when  under  the 
exhilerating  influence  of  a  quid  of  extra  size  revolving  against  the  inner  wall  of 
their  cheek.  The  corresponding  depression  that  succeeds  the  disuse  is  continu 
ally  pressing  for  the  stimulus,  with  a  power  akin  to  that  of  a  raging  thirst,  day  in 
and  day  out,  week  in  and  week  out,  month  in  and  month  out,  until  finally  a  weak 
moment  arrives,  when  the  will  gives  way  and  the  victim  flies  for  relief  to  his  chains 
again— only  to  repeat  in  the  future  a  similar  futile  attempt  to  escape  his  enslave 
ment.  A  gentleman  who  had  ceased  using  it  for  five  years  stated  that  the  desire 
was  even  then  continually  upon  him,  and  he  "would  give  anything"  for  the  indul 
gence,  were  it  not  for  the  accompanying  suffering  that  he  knew  would  accrue. 
Probably  few  persons  use  tobacco  to  excess  but  acknowledge  to  themselves  that,  in 
their  individual  experience,  the  sum  of  misery  from  it  a  thousand  fold  outweighs 
the  sum  of  gratification. 

:  It  is  often  amusing  to  witness  the  resolution  with  which  those  who  use  tobacco 
part  even  temporarily  from  the  indulgence.  "Fanny  Kemble  used  to  relate,  with 
great  gusto,  a  cigar  adventure  she  met  with  while  traveling  in  Georgia.  It  appears 
that  the  day  was  hot,  the  roads  rough,  and  she  an  invalid — the  passengers  in  the 
stage,  herself  and  a  gentleman.  As  the  heavy  vehicle  rumbled  along,  there  mingled, 
with  the  dust  that  constantly  penetrated  its  interior,  the  fumes  of  a  most  execrable 
cigar..  Every  blast  of  the  'Stygian  fume'  sent  a  tremor  of  deadly  sickness  through 
Fanny's  heart.  The  gentleman,  her  traveling  companion,  remonstrated  with  the 
driver,  explained  the  mischief  he  was  doing,  and  promised  the  independent  Jehu, 
at  the  end  of  the  journey,  the  reward  of  twenty-five  choice  Havanas  if  he  would 
throw  away  his  vile  weed.  The  driver's  reply  was,  'Yes,  yes,  in  a  minute,'  but  the 
evil  complained  of  continued  until  finally  it  became  insufferable.  Then  it  was  that 
Fanny  leaned  out  of  the  coach  window  and  said,  'Sir,  I  appeal  to  your  generosity 
to  throw  away  that  cigar,  and  I  know,  from  the  proverbial  politeness  of  the  Ameri 
cans,  that  my  request  will  be  granted.'  'Yes,  yes,'  said  the  driver,  with  some  trep 
idation.  'I  intended  to  do  it,  but  I  wanted  first  to  smoke  it  short  enough  to  put  in 
my  hat!'" 


EARLY    TIMES    AMONG   THE    PIONEERS    OF    KENTUCKY. 

That  eccentric  and  talented  Methodist  preacher,  Peter  Cartwright,  has 
given  in  his  autobiography  some  valuable  reminiscences  of  life  among  the 
pioneers  of  Kentucky,  from  which  we  extract  this  article  as  a  valuable  con 
tribution  to  the  history  of  the  times: 

J  was  born  September  1,  1785,  in  Amherst  county,  on  James  River,  in  the  state 


KENTUCKY. 


89 


of  Virginia.  My  parents  were  poor.  My  father  was  a  soldier  in  the  great  struo-- 
gle  for  liberty,  in  the  Revolutionary  war  with  Great  Britain.  He  served  over  two 
years.  My  mother  was  an  orphan.  Shortly  after  the  united  colonies  gained  their 
independence,  my  parents  moved  to  Kentucky,  which  was  a  new  country.  It  was 
an  almost  unbroken  wilderness  from  Virginia  to  Kentucky  at  that  early  day,  and 
this  wilderness  was  filled  with  thousands  of  hostile  Indians,  and  many' thousands 
of  the  emigrants  to  Kentucky  lost  their  lives  by  these  savages.  There  were  no 
roads  for  carriages  at  that  time,  and  although  the  emigrants  moved  by  thousands, 
they  had  to  move  on  pack  horses.  Many  adventurous  young  men  went  to  this  new 
country.  The  fall  my  father  moved,  there  were  a  great  many  families  who  joined 
together  for  mutual  safety,  and  started  for  Kentucky.  Besides  the  two  hundred 
families  thus  united,  there  were  one  hundred  young  men,  well  armed,  who  agreed 
to  guard  these  families  through,  and,  as  a  compensation,  they  were  to  be  supported 
for  their  services.  After  we  struck  the  wilderness  we  rarely  traveled  a  day  but  we 
passed  some  white  persons,  murdered  and  scalped  by  the  Indians  while  going  to 
or  returning  from  Kentucky.  We  traveled  on  till  Sunday,  and,  instead  of  resting 
that  day,  the  voice  of  the  company  was  to  move  on. 

It  was  a  dark,  cloudy  day,  misty  with  rain.  Many  Indians  were  seen  through 
the  day  skulking  round  by  our  guards.  Late  in  the  evening  we  came  to  what  was 
called  "  Camp  Defeat,"  where  a  number  of  emigrant  families  had  been  all  mur 
dered  by  the  savages  a  short  time  before.  Here  the  company  called  a  halt  to  camp 
for  the  night.  It  was  a  solemn,  gloomy  time;  every  heart  quaked  with  fear. 

Soon  the  captain  of  our  young  men's  company  placed  his  men  as  sentinels  all 
round  the  encampment.  The  stock  and  the  women  and  children  were  placed  in 
the  center  of  the  encampment.  Most  of  the  men  that  were  heads  of  families,  were 
placed  around  outside  of  the  women  and  children.  Those  who  were  not  placed  in 
this  position,  were  ordered  to  take  their  stand  outside  still,  in  the  edge  of  the  brush. 
It  was  a  dark,  dismal  night,  and  all  expected  an  attack  from  the  Indians. 

That  night  my  father  was  placed  as  a  sentinel,  with  a  good  rifle,  in  the  edge  of 
the  brush.  Shortly  after  he  took  his  stand,  and  all  was  quiet  in  the  camp,  he 
thought  he  heard  something  moving  toward  him,  and  grunting  like  a  swine.  He 
knew  that  there  was  no  swine  with  the  moving  company,  but  it  was  so  dark  he 
could  not  see  what  it  was.  Presently  he  perceived  a  dark  object  in  the  distance, 
but  nearer  him  than  at  first,  and  believing  it  to  be  an  Indian,  aiming  to  spring  upon 
him  and  murder  him  in  the  dark,  he  leveled  his  rifle,  and  aimed  at  the  dark  lump 
as  well  as  he  could,  and  fired.  He  soon  found  he  had  hit  the  object,  for  it  flounced 
about  at  a  terrible  rate,  and  my  father  gathered  himself  up  and  ran  into  camp. 

When  his  gun  fired,  there  was  an  awful  screaming  throughout  the  encampment 
by  the  women  and  children.  My  father  was  soon  inquired  of  as  to  what  was  the 
matter.  He  told  them  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  but  some  said  he  was  scared 
and  wanted  an  excuse  to  come  in;  but  he  affirmed  that  there  was  no  mistake,  that 
there  was  something,  and  he  had  shot  it ;  and  if  they  would  get  a  light  and  go  with 
him,  if  he  did  not  snow  them  something,  then  they  might  call  him  a  coward  for 
ever.  They  got  a  light  and  went  to  the  place,  and  there  found  an  Indian,  with  a 
rifle  in  one' hand  and  a  tomahawk  in  the  other,  dead.  My  father's  rifle-ball  had 
struck  the  Indian  nearly  central  in  the  head. 

When  we  came  within  seven  miles  of  the  Crab  Orchard,  where  there  was  a  fort 
and  the  first  white  settlement,  it  was  nearly  night.  We  halted,  and  a  vote  was 
taken  whether  we  should  go  on  to  the  fort,  or  camp  there  for  the  night.  Indians 
had  been  seen  in  our  rear  through  the  day.  All  wanted  to  go  through  except  seven 
families,  who  refused  to  go  any  further  that  night.  The  main  body  went  on,  but 
they,  the  seven  families,  carelessly  stripped  off  their  clothes,  laid  down  without  any 
guards,  and  went  to  sleep.  Some  time  in  the  night,  about  twenty-five  Indians 
rushed  on  them,  and  every  one,  men,  women,  and  children,  was  slain,  except  one 
man,  who  sprang  from  his  bed  and  ran  into  the  fort,  barefooted  and  in  his  night 
clothes.  He  brought  the  melancholy  news  of  the  slaughter.  These  murderous 
bands  of  savages  lived  north  of  the  Ohio  River,  and  would  cross  over  into  Ken 
tucky,  kill  and  steal,  and  then  recross  the  Ohio  into  their  own  country. 

Kentucky  was  claimed  by  no  particular  tribe  of  Indians,  but  was  regarded  as  a 
common  hunting-ground  by  the  various  tribes,  east,  west,  north,  and  south.  It 


90  KENTUCKY. 

abounded  in  various  valuable  game,  such  as  buffalo,  elk,  bear,  deer,  turkeys,  and 
many  other  smaller  game,  and  hence  the  Indians  struggled  hard  to  keep  the  white 
people  from  taking  possession  of  it.  It  was  chiefly  settled  by  Virginians,  as  noble 
and  brave  a  race  of  men  and  women  as  ever  drew  the  breath  of  life. 

In  the  fall  of  1793,  my  father  determined  to  move  to  what  was  then  called  the 
Green  River  country,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state  of  Kentucky.  He  did  so, 
and  settled  in  Logan  county,  nine  miles  south  of  Russellville,  the  county  seat,  and 
within  one  mile  of  the  state  line  of  Tennessee. 

Logan  county,  when  rny  father  moved  to  it,  was  called  "  Rogues'  Harbor."  Here 
many  refugees,  from  almost  all  parts  of  the  Union,  fled  to  escape  justice  or  punish 
ment;  for  although  there  was  law,  yet  it  could  not  be  executed,  and  it  was  a  des 
perate  state  of  society.  Murderers,  horse  thieves,  highway  robbers,  and  counter 
feiters  fled  here  until  they  combined  and  actually  formed  a  majority.  The  honest 
and  civil  part  of  the  citizens  would  prosecute  these  wretched  banditti,  but  they 
would  swear  each  other  clear ;  and  they  really  put  all  law  at  defiance,  and  carried 
on  such  desperate  violence  and  outrage  that  the  honest  part  of  the  citizens  seemed 
to  be  driven  to  the  necessity  of  uniting  and  combining  together,  and  taking  the 
law  into  their  own  hands,  under  the  name  of  Regulators.  This  was  a  very  des 
perate  state  of  things. 

Shortly  after  the  Regulators  had  formed  themselves  into  a  society,  and  estab 
lished  their  code  of  by-laws,  on  a  court  day  at  Russellville,  the  two  bands  met  in 
town.  Soon  a  quarrel  commenced,  and  a  general  battle  ensued  between  the  rogues 
and  Regulators,  and  they  fought  with  guns,  pistols,  dirks,  knives,  and  clubs.  Some 
were  actually  killed,  many  wounded,  the  rogues  proved  victors,  kept  the  ground, 
and  drove  the  Regulators  out  of  town.  The  Regulators  rallied  again,  hunted,  killed, 
and  lynched  many  of  the  rogues,  until  several  of  them  fled,  and  left  for  parts  un 
known.  Many  lives  were  lost  on  both  sides,  to  the  great  scandal  of  civilized  peo 
ple.  This  is  but  a  partial  view  of  frontier  life.* 

When  my  father  settled  in  Logan  county,  there  was  not  a  newspaper  printed 
south  of  Green  River,  no  mill  short  of  forty  miles,  and  no  schools  worth  the  name. 

*  The  most  notorious  of  the  desperadoes  who  infested  the  settlements  were  two  brothers 
named  Harpe,  of  whom  Judge  Hall,  in  his  Western  Sketches,  has  given  this  narrative : 

In  the  fall  of  1801  or  1802,  a  company  consisting  of  two  men  and  three  women  arrived 
in  Lincoln  county,  Ky.,  and  encamped  about  a  mile  from  the  present  town  of  Stanford. 
The  appearance  of  the  individuals  composing  this  party  was  wild  and  rude  in  the  extreme. 
The  one  who  seemed  to  be  the  leader  of  the  band,  was  above  the  ordinary  stature  of  men. 
His  frame  was  bony  and  muscular,  his  breast  broad,  his  limbs  gigantic.  His  clothing  was 
uncouth  and  shabby,  his  exterior,  weatherbeaten  and  dirty,  indicating  continual  exposure 
to  the  elements,  and  designating  him  as  one  who  dwelt  far  from  the  habitations  of  men, 
and  mingled  not  in  the  courtesies  of  civilized  life.  His  countenance  was  bold  and  ferocious 
and  exceedingly  impulsive,  from  its  strongly  marked  expression  of  villainy.  His  face, 
which  wa.s  larger  than  ordinary,  exhibited  the  lines  of  ungovernable  passion,  and  the  com 
plexion  announced  that  the  ordinary  feelings  of  the  human  breast  were  in  him  extinguished. 
Instead  of  the  healthy  hue  which  indicates  the  social  emotions,  there  was  a  livid  unnatu 
ral  redness,  resembling  that  of  a  dried  and  lifeless  skin.  His  eye  was  fearless  and  steady, 
but  it  was  also  artful  and  audacious,  glaring  upon  the  beholder  with  an  unpleasant  fixed 
ness  and  brilliancv,  like  that  of  a  ravenous  animal  gloating  on  its  prey.  He  wore  no  cov 
ering  on  his  head,  and  the  natural  protection  of  thick  coarse  hair,  of  a  fiery  redness,  un 
combed  and  matted,  gave  evidence  of  long  exposure  to  the  rudest  visitations  of  the  sun 
beam  and  the  tempest.  He  was  armed  with  a  rifle,  and  a  broad  leathern  belt,  drawn  closely 
around  his  waist,  supported  a  knife  and  a  tomahawk.  He  seemed,  in  short,  an  outlaw, 
destitute  of  all  the  nobler  sympathies  of  human  nature,  and  prepared  at  all  points  for  as 
sault  or  defense.  The  other  man  was  smaller  in  size  than  him  who  led  the  party,  but  sim 
ilarly  armed,  having  the  same  suspicious  exterior,  and  a  countenance  equally  fierce  and 
sinister  The  females  were  coarse,  and  wretchedly  attired. 

The  men  stated  in  answer  to  the  inquiry  of  the  inhabitants,  that  their  names  were  H.irpe, 
and  that  they  were  emigrants  from  North  Carolina.  They  remained  at  their  encampment 
the  greater  part  of  two  days  and  a  night,  spending  the  time  in  rioting,  drunkenness  and 
debauchery.  When  they  left,  they  took  the  road  leading  to  Green  River.  The  day  suc 
ceeding  their  departure,  a  report  reached  the  neighborhood  that  a  young  gentleman  of 
wealth  from  Virginia,  named  Lankford,  had  been  robbed  and  murdered  on  what  was 


KENTUCKY.  91 

Sunday  was  a  day  set  apart  for  hunting,  fishing,  horse  racing,  card  playing  balls 
dances,  and  all  kinds  of  jollity  and  mirth.  We  killed  our  meat  out  of  the°  woods' 
wild;  and  beat  our  meal  and  hominy  with  a  pestle  and  mortar.  We  stretched  a 
deer  skin  over  a  hoop,  burned  holes  in  it  with  the  prongs  of  a  fork,  sifted  our  meal, 
baked  our  bread,  eat  it,  and  it  was  first-rate  eating  too.  We  raised,  or  gathered 
out  of  the  woods,  our  own  tea.  We  had  sage,  bohea,  cross-vine,  spice,  and  sassa 
fras  teas,  in  abundance.  As  for  coffee,  I  am  not  sure  that  I  ever  srnelled  it  for  ten 
years.  We  made  our  sugar  out  of  the  water  of  the  maple-tree,  and  our  molasses 
too.  These  were  great  luxuries  in  those  days. 

We  raised  our  own  cotton  and  flax.  We  water-rotted  our  flax,  broke  it  by  hand, 
scutched  it;  picked  the  seed  out  of  the  cotton  with  our  fingers;  our  mothers  and 
sisters  carded,  spun,  and  wove  it  into  cloth,  and  they  cut  and  made  our  garments 
and  bed-clothes,  etc.  And  when  we  got  on  a  new  suit  thus  manufactured,  and 
sallied  out  into  company,  we  thought  ourselves  "so  big  as  anybody." 

Time  rolled  on,  population  increased  fast  around  us,  the  country  improved,  horse- 
thieves  and  murderers  were  driven  away,  and  civilization  advanced  considerably. 
Ministers  of  different  denominations  came  in,  and  preached  through  the  country ; 

then  called,  and  is  still  known  as  the  "  Wilderness  Road,"  which  runs  through  the  Rock- 
castle  hills.  Suspicion  immediately  fixed  upon  the  Harpes  as  the  perpetrators,  and  Cap 
tain  Ballenger,  at  the  head  of  a  few  bold  and  resolute  men,  started  in  pursuit.  They  ex 
perienced  great  difficulty  in  following  their  trail,  owing  to  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  which  had 
obliterated  most  of  their  tracks,  but  finally  came  upon  them  while  encamped  in  a  bottom 
on  Green  River,  near  the  spot  where  the  town  of  Liberty  now  stands.  At  first  they  made 
a  show  of  resistance,  but  upon  being  informed  that  if  they  did  not  immediately  surrender, 
they  would  be  shot  down,  they  yielded  themselves  prisoners.  They  were  brought  back 
to  Stanford,  and  there  examined.  Among  their  effects  were  found  some  fine  linen  shirts, 
marked  with  the  initials  of  Lankford.  One  had  been  pierced  by  a  bullet  and  was  stained 
with  blood.  They  had  also  a  considerable  sum  of  money,  in  gold.  It  was  afterward  as 
certained  that  this  was  the  kind  of  money  Lankford  had  with  him.  The  evidence  against 
them  being  thus  conclusive,  they  were  confined  in  the  Stanford  jail,  but  were  afterward 
sent  for  trial  to  Danville,  where  the  district  court  was  in  session.  Here  they  broke  jail, 
and  succeeded  in  making  their  escape. 

They  were  next  heard  of  in  Adair  county,  near  Columbia.  In  passing  through  that 
county,  they  met  a  small  boy,  the  son  of  Colonel  Trabue,  with  a  pillow-case  of  meal  or 
flour,  an  article  they  probably  needed.  This  boy,  it  is  supposed,  they  robbed  and  then 
murdered,  as  he  was  never  afterward  heard  of.  Many  years  afterward,  human  bones,  an 
swering  the  size  of  Colonel  Trabue's  son  at  the  time  of  his  disappearance,  were  found  in 
a  sink  hole  near  the  place  where  he  was  said  to  have  been  murdered.  The  Harpes  still 
shaped  their  course  toward  the  mouth  of  Green  River,  marking  their  path  by  murders  and 
robbene3»of  the  most  horrible  and  brutal  character.  Thedistrict  of  country  through  which 
they  passed  was  at  that  time  very  thinly  settled,  and  from  this  reason  their  outrages  went 
unpunished.  They  seemed  inspired  with  the  deadliest  hatred  against  the  whole  human 
r.ice,  and  such  was  their  implacable  misanthropy,  that  they  were  known  to  kill  where  there 
was  no  temptation  to  rob.  One  of  their  victims  was  a  little  girl,  found  at  some  distance 
from  her  home,  whose  tender  age  and  helplessness  would  have  been  protection  against  any 
but  incarnate  fiends.  The  last  dreadful  act  of  barbarity,  which  led  to  their  punishment 
and  expulsion  from  the  country,  exceeded  in  atrocity  all  the  others. 

Assuming  the  guise  of  Methodist  preachers,  they  obtained  lodgings  one  night  at  a  soli 
tary  house  on  the  road.  Mr.  Stagall,  the  master  of  the  house,  was  absent,  but  they  found 
his  wife  and  children,  and  a  stranger,  who,  like  themselves,  had  stopped  for  the  night. 
Here  they  conversed  and  made  inquiries  about  the  two  noted  Harpes,  who  were  represented 
as  prowling  about  the  country.  When  they  retired  to  rest,  they  contrived  to  secure  an  ax, 
whioh  they  carried  with  them  to  their  chamber.  In  the  dead  of  night,  they  crept  softly 
down  stairs,  and  assassinated  the  whole  family,  together  with  the  stranger,  in  their  sleep, 
and  then  setting  fire  to  the  house,  made  their  escape.  When  Stagall  returned,  he  found 
no  wife  to  welcome  him;  no  home  to  receive  him.  Distracted  with  grief  and  rage,  lie 
turned  his  horse's  head  from  the  smoldering  ruins,  and  repaired  to  the  house  of  Captain 
John  Leeper.  Leeper  was  one  of  the  most  powerful  men  of  his  day,  and  fearless  as  pow 
erful.  Collecting  four  or  five  other  men  well  armed,  they  mounted  and  started  in  pursuit 
of  vengeance.  It  was  agreed  that  Leeper  should  attack  "  Big  Harpe,"  leaving  ';  Little 
Harpe"  to  be  disposed  of  by  Stagall.  The  others  were  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness 
to  assist  Leeper  and  St-igall/as  circumstances  might  require. 

This  party  found  the  women  belonging  to  the  Harpes  attending  to  their  little  camp  bv 


92  KENTUCKY. 

but  the  Methodist  preachers  were  the  pioneer  messengers  of  salvation  in  these  ends 
of  the  earth.  Even  in  Rogues'  Harbor  there  was  a  Baptist  church  a  few  miles  west 
of  my  father's,  and  a  Presbyterian  congregation  a  few  miles  north,  and  the  Meth 
odist  Ebenezer  a  few  miles  south. 

Somewhere  between  1800  and  1801,  in  the  upper  part  of  Kentucky,  at  a  memor 
able  place  called  "Cane  Ridge,"  there  was  appointed  a  sacramental  meeting  by 
some  of  the  Presbyterian  ministers,  at  which  meeting,  seemingly  unexpected  by 
ministers  or  people,  the  mighty  power  of  God  was  displayed  in  a  very  extraordin 
ary  manner;  many  were  moved  to  tears,  and  bitter  and  loud  crying  for  mercy. 
The  meeting  was  protracted  for  weeks.  Ministers  of  almost  all  denominations 
flocked  in  from  far  and  near.  The  meeting  was  kept  up  by  night  and  day.  Thou 
sands  heard  of  the  mighty  work,  and  came  on  foot,  on  horseback,  in  carriages  and 
wagons.  It  was  supposed  that  there  were  in  attendance  at  times  during  the  meet 
ing  from  twelve  to  twenty-five  thousand  people.  Hundreds  fell  prostrate  under  the 
mighty  power  of  God,  as  men  slain  in  battle.  Stands  were  erected  in  the  woods, 
from  which  preachers  of  different  churches  proclaimed  repentance  toward  God 
and  faith  in  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  it  was  supposed,  by  eye  and  ear  witnesses, 
that  between  one  and  two  thousand  souls  were  happily  and  powerfully  converted 
to  God  during  the  meeting.  It  was  not  unusual  for  one,  two,  three,  and  four  to 
seven  preachers  to  be  addressing  the  listening  thousands  at  the  same  time  from  the 
different  stands  erected  for  the  purpose.  The  heavenly  fire  spread  in  almost  every 
direction.  It  was  said,  by  truthful  witnesses,  that  at  times  more  than  one  thousand 
persons  broke  out  into  loud  shouting  all  at  once,  and  that  the  shouts  could  be  heard 
for  miles  around. 

From  this  camp-meeting,  for  so  it  ought  to  be  called,  the  news  spread  through  all 
the  Churches,  and  through  all  the  land,  and  it  excited  great  wonder  and  surprise; 
but  it  kindled  a  religious  flame  that  spread  all  over  Kentucky,  and  through  many 
other  states.  And  I  may  here  be  permitted  to  say,  that  this  was  the* first  camp- 
meeting  ever  held  in  the  United  States,  and  here  our  camp-meetings  took  their 
rise. 

To  show  the  ignorance  the  early  Methodist  preachers  had  to  contend  with  in 
the  western  wilds,  1  will  relate  an'incident  that  occurred  to  Wilson  Lee,  in  Ken 
tucky  : 

There  was  in  the  congregation  a  very  wicked  Dutchman  and  his  wife,  both  of 

the  road  side;  the  men  having  gone  aside  into  the  woods  to  shoot  an  unfortunate  traveler, 
of  the  name  of  Smith,  who  had  fallen  into  their  hands,  and  whom  the  women  had  begged 
might  not  be  dispatched  before  their  eyes.  It  was  this  halt  that  enabled  the  pursuers  to 
overtake  them.  The  women  immediately  gave  the  alarm,  and  the  miscreants,  mounting 
their  horses,  which  were  large,  fleet  and  powerful,  fled  in  separate  directions.  Leeper 
singled  out  the  Big  Harpe,  and  being  better  mounted  than  his  companions,  soon  left  them 
far  behind.  Little  Harpe  succeeded  in  escaping  from  Stagall,  and  he,  with  the  rest  of  his 
companions,  turned  and  followed  the  track  of  Leeper  and  Big  Harpe.  After  a  chase  of 
about  nine  miles,  Leeper  came  within  gun  shot  of  the  latter  and  fired.  The  bull  entering 
his  thigh,  passed  through  it  and  penetrated  his  horse,  and  both  fell.  Harpe's  gun  escaped 
from  his  hand  and  rolled  some  eight  or  ten  feet  down  the  bank.  Reloading  his  rifle  Lee 
per  ran  to  where  the  wounded  outlaw  lay  weltering  in  his  blood,  and  found  him  with  one 
thigh  broken  and  the  other  crushed  beneath  his  horse.  Leeper  rolled  the  horse  away,  and 
set  Harpe  in  an  easier  position.  The  robber  begged  that  he  might  not  be  killed.  Leeper 
told  him  that  he  had  nothing  to  fear  from  him,  but  that  Stagall  was  coming  up,  and  could 
not  probably  be  restrained.  Harpe  appeared  very  much  frightened  at  hearing  this,  and  im 
plored  Leeper  to  protect  him.  In  a  few  moments  Stagall  appeared,  and  without  uttering  a 
word,  raised  his  rifle  and  shot  Harpe  through  the  head.  They  then  severed  the  head  from 
the  b"dy,  and  stuck  it  upon  a  pole  where  the  road  crosses  the  creek,  from  which  the  place 
was  then  named  and  is  yet  called  Harpe's  Head.  Thus  perished  one  of  the  boldest  and 
most  noted  freebooters  that  has  ever  appeared  in  America.  Save  cournge,  he  was  without, 
one  redeeming  quality,  and  his  death  freed  the  country  from  a  terror  which  had  long  para 
lyzed  its  boldest  spirits. 

The  Little  Harpe  afterward  joined  the  band  of  Mason,  and  became  one  of  his  most  val 
uable  assistants  in  the  dreadful  trade  of  robbery  and  murder.  He  was  one  of  the  two 
bandits  that,  tempted  by  the  reward  for  their  leader's  head,  murdered  him,  and  eventually 
themselves  suffered  the  penalty  of  the  law  as  previously  related. 


KENTUCKY. 


93 


whom  were  profoundly  ignorant  of  the  Scriptures  and  the  plan  of  salvation.  His 
wife  was  a  notorious  scold,  and  so  much  was  she  given  to  this  practice,  that  sho 
made  her  husband  unhappy,  and  kept  him  almost  "always  in  a  perfect  fret  so  that 
he  led  a  most  miserable  and  uncomfortable  life.  It  pleased  God  that  day  to  cause 
ih.<  preaching  of  Mr.  Lee  to  reach  their  guilty  souls,  and  break  up  the  great  deep 
of  their  hearts.  They  Wept  aloud,  seeing  their  lost  condition,  and  they,  then  and 
there,  resolved  to  do  better,  and  from  that  time  forward  to  take  up  the  cross  and 
bear  it,  be  it  what  it  might 


A  Religious  Encampment  in  the  Wilderness. 

The  congregation  were  generally  deeply  affected.  Mr.  Lee  exhorted  them  anfl 
prayed  for  them  as  long  as  he  consistently  could,  and,  having  another  appointment 
some  distance  off  that  evening,  he  dismissed  the  congregation,  got  a  little  refresh 
ment,  saddled  his  horse,  mounted,  and  started  for  his  evening  appointment.  After 
riding  some  distance,  he  saw,  a  little  ahead  of  him,  a  man  trudging  along,  carry 
ing  a  woman  on  his  back.  This  greatly  surprised  Mr.  Lee.  He  very  naturally 
supposed  that  the  woman  was  a  cripple,  or  had  hurt  herself  in  some  way,  so  that 
she  could  not  walk.  The  traveler  was  a  small  man,  and  the  woman  large  and 
heavy. 

Before  he  overtook  them  Mr.  Lee  began  to  cast  about  in  his  mind  how  he  could 
render  them  assistance.  When  he  came  up  to  them,  lo  and  behold,  who  should  it 
be  but  the  Dutchman  and  his  wife  that  had  been  so  affected  under  his  sermon  at 
meeting.  Mr.  Lee  rode  up  and  spoke  to  them,  and  inquired  of  the  man  what  had 
happened,  or  what  was  the  matter,  that  he  was  carrying  his  wife. 

The  Dutchman  turned  to  Mr.  Lee  and  said,  "Besure  you  did  tell  us  in  your  sar- 
mon  dat  we  must  take  up  de  cross  and  follow  de  Saviour,  or  dat  we  could  not  be 
saved  or  go  to  heaven,  and  I  does  desire  to  go  to  heaven  so  much  as  any  pody;  and 
dish  vife  is  so  pad,  she  scold  and  scold  all  de  time,  and  dish  woman  is  de  Greatest 
cross  I  have  in  de  whole  world,  and  I  does  take  her  up  and  pare  her,  for  I  must 
save  my  soul." 

From  1801,  for  years,  a  blessed  revival  of  religion  spread  through  almost  the 
entire  inhabited  parts  of  the  west,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  the  Carolinas,  and  many 
other  parts,  especially  through  the  Cumberland  country,  which  was  so  called  from 
the  Cumberland  River,  which  headed  and  mouthed  in  Kentucky,  but  in  its  great 


94  KENTUCKY. 

bend  circled  south  through  Tennessee,  near  Nashville.  The  Presbyterians  and 
Methodists  in  a  great  measure  united  in  this  work,  met  together,  prayed  together., 
and  preached  together. 

In  this  revival  originated  our  camp-meetings,  and  in  both  these  denominations 
they  were  held  every  year,  and,  indeed,  have  been  ever  since,  more  or  less.  They 
would  erect  their  camps  with  logs,  or  frame  them,  and  cover  them  with  clapboards 
or  shingles.  They  would  also  erect  a  shed,  sufficiently  large  to  protect  five  thou 
sand  people  from  wind  and  rain,  and  cover  it  with  boards  or  shingles  ;  build  a 
large  stand,  seat  the  shed,  and  here  they  would  collect  together  from  forty  to  fifty 
miles  around,  sometimes  further  than  that.  Ten,  twenty,  and  sometimes  thirty 
ministers,  of  different  denominations,  would  come  together  and  preach  night  and 
day,  four  or  five  days  together;  and,  indeed,  I  have  known  these  camp-meetings  to 
last  three  or  four  weeks,  and  great  good  resulted  from  them.  I  have  seen  more 
than  a  hundred  sinners  fall  like  dead  men  under  one  powerful  sermon,  and  I  have 
seen  and  heard  more  than  five  hundred  Christians  all  shouting  aloud  the  high 
praises  of  God  at  once;  and  I  will  venture  to  assert  that  many  happy  thousands 
were  awakened  and  converted  to  God  at  these  camp  meetings.  Some  sinners 
mocked,  some  of  the  old  dry  professors  opposed,  some  of  the  old  starched  Presby 
terian  preachers  preached  against  these  exercises,  but  still  the  work  went  on  and 
spread  almost  in  every  direction,  gathering  additional  force,  until  our  country 
seemed  all  coming  home  to  God. 

In  this  great  revival  the  Methodists  kept  moderately  balanced  ;  for  we  had  ex 
cellent  preachers  to  steer  the  ship  or  guide  the  flock.  But  some  of  our  members 
ran  wild,  and  indulged  in  some  extravagancies  that  were  hard  to  control.  The 
Presbyterian  preachers  and  members,  not  being  accustomed  to  much  noise  or 
shouting,  when  they  yielded  to  it  went  into  great  extremes  and  downright  wild- 
ness,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  cause  of  God. 

-  Col.  Daniel  Boone,  the  celebrated 

\S  pioneer  of  Kentucky,  was  born  of 


rents  emigrated  to  the  banks  of  the 
Yadkin,   in    North    Carolina.     "At 

that  time  the  region  beyond  the  Blue  Ridge  was  an  unknown  wilderness  to  the 
white  people,  for  none  had  ventured  thither,  as  far  as  is  known,  until  about  the 
year  1750.  It  was  almost  twenty  years  later  than  this,  when  Boone  was  approach 
ing  the  prime  of  life,  that  he  first  penetrated  the  great  Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  in 
company  with  others.  He  had  already,  as  a  bold  hunter,  been  within  the  eastern 
verge  of  the  present  Kentucky,  but  now  he  took  a  long  'hunt'  of  about  three  years. 
He  had  made  himself  familiar  with  the  wilderness,  and  in  1773,  in  company  with 
other  families,  he  started  with  his  own  to  make  a  settlement  on  the  Kain-tuck-ee 
River.  The  hostile  Indians  compelled  them  to  fall  back,  and  Boone  resided  on  the 
Clinch  River  until  1775,  when  he  went  forward  and  planted  the  settlement  of 
Boonesborough,  in  the  present  Madison  county,  Kentucky.  There  he  built  a  log 
fort,  and  in  the  course  of  three  or  four  years  several  other  settlers  joined  him.  His 
wife  and  daughters  were  the  first  white  women  ever  seen  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Kentucky  River.  He  became  a  great  annoyance  to  the  Indians,  and  while  at  the 
Blue  Licks,  on  the  Licking  River,  in  February,  1778,  engaged  with  others  in 
making  salt,  he  was  captured  by  some  Shawnee  warriors  from  the  Ohio  country, 
and  taken  to  Chillicothe.  The  Indians  became  attached  to  him,  and  he  was  adopted 
into  a  family  as  a  son.  A  ransom  of  five  hundred  dollars  was  offered  for  him,  but 
the  Indians  refused  it.  He  at  length  escaped  (in  July  following  his  capture),  when 
he  ascertained  that  a  large  body  of  Indians  were  preparing  to  march  against  Boones 
borough.  They  attacked  that  station  three  times  before  the  middle  of  September, 
but  were  repulsed.  During  Boone's  captivity,  his  wife  and  children  had  returned 
to  the  house  of  her  father,  on  the  Yadkin,  where  the  pioneer  visited  them  in  1779, 
and  remained  with  them  for  many  months.  He  returned  to  Kentucky  in  1780, 
with  his  family,  and  assisted  Colonel  Clark  in  his  operations  against  the  Indians  in 
the  Illinois  country." 


KENTUCKY.  95 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  Boone  settled  down  quietly  upon  his  farm.  But  he  was 
not  long  permitted  to  remain  unmolested.  His  title,  owing  to  the  imperfect  nature 
of  the  land  laws  of  Kentucky,  was  legally  decided  to  be  defective,  and  Boone  was 
deprived  of  all  claim  to  the  soil  which  he  had  explored,  settled,  and  so  bravely  de- 
feuded.  In  1795,  disgusted  with  civilized  society,  he  sought  a  new  home  in  the 
wilds  of  the  far  west,  on  the  banks  of  ,the  Missouri,  then  within  the  dominion  of 
Spain.  He  was  treated  there  with  kindness  and  attention  by  the  public  authorities 
and  he  found  the  simple  manners  of  that  frontier  people  exactly  suited  to  his  pe 
culiar  habits  and  temper.  With  them  he  spent  the  residue  of  his  days,  and  was 
gathered  to  his  fathers,  Sept.  26th,  1820,  in  the  86th  year  of  his  age.  He  was  bur 
ied  in  a  coffin  which  he  had  had  made  for  years,  and  placed  under  his  bed,  ready 
to  receive  him  whenever  he  should  be  called  from  these  earthly  scenes.  In  the 
summer  of  1845,  his  remains  were  removed  to  Frankfort.  In  person,  Boone  was 
five  feet  ten  inches  in  hight,  and  of  robust  and  powerful  proportions.  He  was  or 
dinarily  attired  as  a  hunter,  wearing  a  hunting  shirt  and  moccasins.  His  biogra- 
Eher,  who  saw  him  at  his  residence,  on  the  Missouri  River,  but  a  short  time  before 
is  death,  says  that  on  his  introduction  to  Col.  Boone,  the  impressions  were  those 
of  surprise,  admiration  and  delight.  In  boyhood,  he  had  read  of  Daniel  Boone,  the 
pioneer  of  Kentucky,  the  celebrated  hunter  and  Indian  fighter,  and  imagination 
had  portrayed  a  rough,  fierce-looking,  uncouth  specimen  of  humanity,  and  of 
course,  at  this  period  of  life,  a  fretful  and  unattractive  old  man.  But  in  every  re 
spect  the  reverse  appeared.  His  high,  bold  forehead  was  slightly  bald,  and  his  silver 
locks  were  combed  smooth ;  his  countenance  was  ruddy  and  fair,  and  exhibited  the 
simplicity  of  a  child.  His  voice  was  soft  and  melodious;  a  smile  frequently  played 
over  his  features  in  conversation ;  his  clothing  was  the  coarse,  plain  manufacture 
of  the  family,  but  everything  about  him  denoted  that  kind  of  comfort  which  was 
congenial  to  his  habits  and  feelings,  and  evinced  a  happy  old  age.  His  room  was 
part  of  a  range  of  log  cabins,  kept  in  order  by  his  affectionate  daughter  and  grand 
daughter,  and  every  member  of  the  household  appeared  to  delight  in  administering 
to  the  comforts  of  "grandfather  Boone,"  as  he  was  familiarly  called. 

When  age  had  enfeebled  his  once  athletic  frame,  he  made  an  excursion,  twice  a 
year,  to  some  remote  hunting  ground,  employing  a  companion,  whom  he  bound  by 
a  written  contract  to  take  care  of  him,  and  should  he  die  in  the  wilderness  to  bring 
his  body  to  the  cemetery  which  he  had  selected  as  a  final  resting-place. 

George  Rogers  Clark  was 
born  in  Albemarle  county,  Vir 
ginia,  in  1752.  He  possessed 
a  most  extraordinary  military 
genius,  and  became  conspicu 
ously  prominent  in  the  con 
quest  and  settlement  of  the 
whole  west.  "He  first  appeared 
in  history  as  an  adventurer  be 
yond  the  Alleghanies,  in  1772. 
He  had  been  engaged  in  the  business  of  land-surveyor  for  some  time,  and  that  year 
he  went  down  the  Ohio  in  a  canoe  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Kanawha,  in 
company  with  Rev.  David  Jones,  then  on  his  way  to  preach  the  gospel  to  the  west 
ern  tribes.  He  was  captain  of  a  company  in  Dunmore's  army,  which  marched 
against  the  Indians  on  the  Ohio  and  its  tributaries,  in  1774.  Ever  since  his  trip 
in  1772,  he  ardently  desired  an  opportunity  to  explore  those  deep  wildernesses  in  the 
great  valleys,  and  in  1775  he  accompanied  some  armed  settlers  to  Kentucky,  as 
their  commander.  During  that  and  the  following  year,  he  traversed  a  great  ex 
tent  of  country  south  of  the  Ohio,  studied  the  character  of  the  Indians,  and  made 
himself  master  of  many  secrets  which  aided  in  his  future  success.  He  beheld  a 
beautiful  country,  inviting  immigration,  but  the  pathway  to  it  was  made  dangerous 
r>y  the  enemies  of  the  colonists,  who  sallied  forth  from  the  British  posts  at  Detroit, 
Kaskaskia  and  Vincennes,  with  Indian  allies.  Convinced  of  the  necessity  ot  pos 
sessing  these  posts,  Clark  submitted  the  plan  of  an  expedition  against  them  to  the 
Virginia  legislature,  and  early  in  the  spring  of  1778  he  was  at  the  falls  of  the  Ohio 
(now  Louisville)  with  four  companies  of  soldiers.  There  he  was  joined  by  bimon 


93  KENTUCKY. 

Kenton,  another  bold  pioneer.  He  marched  through  the  wilderness  toward  those 
important  posts,  and  at  the  close  of  summer  all  but  Detroit  were  in  his  possession. 
Clark  was  now  promoted  to  colonel,  and  was  instructed  to  pacify  the  western 
tribes,  if  possible,  and  bring  them  into  friendly  relations  with  the  Americans. 
While  thus  engaged,  he  was  informed  of  the  re-capture  of  Vincennes.  With  his 
usual  energy,  and  followed  by  less  than  two  hundred  men,  he  traversed  the  drowned 
lands  of  Illinois,  through  deep  morasses  and  snow  floods,  in  February,  1779,  and  on 
the  19th  of  that  month  appeared  before  Vincennes.  To  the  astonished  garrison,  it 
seemed  as  if  these  rough  Kentuckians  had  dropped  from  the  clouds,  for  the  whole 
country  was  inundated.  The  fort  was  speedily  surrendered,  and  commander  Ham 
ilton  (governor  of  Detroit),  and  several  others,  were  sent  to  Virginia  as  prisoners. 
Colonel  Clark  also  captured  a  quantity  of  goods,  under  convoy  from  Detroit,  valued 
at  $50,000;  and  having  sufficiently  garrisoned  Vincennes  and  the  other  posts,  he 
proceeded  to  build  Fort  Jefferson,  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  below  the 
Ohio.  When  Arnold  invaded  Virginia,  in  1781,  Colonel  Clark  joined  the  forces 
under  the  Baron  Steuben,  and  performed  signal  service  until  the  traitor  had  de 
parted.  He  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  brigadier  the  same  year,  and  went  beyond 
the  mountains  ajjain,  hoping  to  organize  an  expedition  against  Detroit.  His  scheme 
failed,  and  for  awhile  Clark  was  in  command  of  a  post  at  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio. 
In  the  autumn  of  1782,  he  penetrated  the  Indian  country  between  the  Ohio  and  the 
lakes,  with  a  thousand  men,  and  chastised  the  tribes  severely  for  their  marauding 
excursions  into  Kentucky,  and  awed  them  into  comparatively  peaceful  relations. 
For  these  deeds,  John  Randolph  afterward  called  Clark  the  'American  Hannibal, 
who,  by  the  reduction  of  those  military  posts  in  the  wilderness,  obtained  the  lakes 
for  the  northern  boundary  of  our  Union  at  the  peace  of  1783.'  Clark  made  Ken 
tucky  his  future  home,  and  during  Washington  s  administration,  when  Genet,  the 
French  minister,  attempted  to  organize  a  force  in  the  west  against  the  Spaniards, 
Clark  accepted  from  him  the  commission  of  maior-general  in  the  armies  of  France. 
The  project  was  abandoned,  and  the  hero  of  the  northwest  never  appeared  in 
public  life  afterward."  General  Clark  was  never  married,  and  he  was  long  in  in 
firm  health.  He  died  in  February,  1818,  and  was  buried  at  Locust  Grove,  near 
Louisville. 

"  Gen.  Charles  Scott  was  a  native  of  Cumberland  county,  Virginia  He  raised 
the  first  company  of  volunteers  in  that  state,  south  of  the  James  River,  that  actually 
entered  into  the  continental  service.  So  much  was  he  appreciated  that  in  1777  the 
shire-town  of  Powhattan  county  was  named  in  honor  of  him.  Congress  appointed 
him  a  brigadier  in  the  continental  army  on  the  1st  of  April,  1777.  He  served  with 
distinction  during  the  war,  and  at  its  termination  he  went  to  Kentucky.  He  settled 
in  Woodibrd  county,  in  that  state,  in  1785.  He  was  with  St.  Clair  at  his  defeat  in 
1791,  and  in  1794  he  commanded  a  portion  of  Wayne's  army  at  the  battle  of  the 
Fallen  Timber.  He  was  governor  of  Kentucky  from  1808  to  1812.  He  died  on 
the  22d  of  October,  1820,  aged  seventy-four  years." 

Scott  was  a  man  of  strong  natural  powers,  but  somewhat  illiterate  and  rough  in 
his  manners.  He  was  eccentric,  and  many  amusing  anecdotes  are  related  of  him. 
When  a  candidate  for  governor,  he  was  opposed  by  Col.  Allen,  a  native  of  Ken 
tucky,  who,  in  an  address  to  the  people  when  Scott  was  present,  made  an  eloquent  ap 
peal.  The  friends  of  the  latter,  knowing  he  was  no  orator,  felt  distressed  for  him, 
but  Scott,  nothing  daunted,  mounted  the  stump,  and  addressed  the  company  nearly 
as  follows : 

"Well,  boys,  I  am  sure  you  must  all  be  well  pleased  with  the  speech  you  have  just  heard. 
It  does  my  heart  good  to  think  we  have  so  smart  a  man  raised  up  among  us  here.  He  is  a 
native  Kentuckian.  I  see  a  good  many  of  you  here  that  I  brought  out  to  this  country  when 
a  wilderness.  At  that  time  we  hardly  expected  we  should  live  to  see  such  a  smart  man 
raised  up  among  ourselves.  You  who  were  with  me  in  those  early  times  know  we  had  no 
time  for  education,  no  means  of  improving  from  books.  We  dared  not  then  go  about  our 
most  common  affairs  without  arms  in  our  hands,  to  defend  ourselves  against  the  Indians. 
But  we  guarded  and  protected  the  country,  and  now  every  one  can  go  where  he  pleases,  and 
you  now  see  what  smart  fellows  are  growing  up  to  do  their  country  honor.  But  I  think  it 
would  be  a  pity  to  make  this  man  governor;  I  think  it  would  be  better  to  send  him  to  Con 
gress.  I  don't  think  it  requires  a  very  smart  man  to  make  a  governor,  if  he  has  sense 
enough  to  gather  smart  men  about  who  can  help  him  on  with  the  business  of  state.  It 


KENTUCKY.  97 

would  suit  a  worn-out  old  wife  of  a  man  like  myself.  But  as  to  this  young  man,  I  am  very 
proud  of  him,  as  much  so  as  any  of  his  kin,  if  any  of  them  have  been  here  to-day  listening 
to  his  speech/'  Scott  then  descended  from  the  stump,  and  the  huzzas  for  the  old  soldier 
made  the  welkin  ring. 

Gen.  Benjamin  Logan,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  pioneers,  was  born  in  Vir 
ginia,  of  Irish  parentage,  about  the  year  1742.  He  was  a  sergeant  in  Boquet's  ex 
pedition,  and  was  in  Dunmore's  campaign.  In  1775,  he  came  to  Kentucky  with 
Boone,  Henderson,  and  others.  The  next  year  he  brought  out  his  family,  and 
established  a  fort,  called  "Logan's  Fort,"  which  stood  at  St.  Asaph's,  about  a 'mile 
west  of  the  present  town  of  Stanford,  in  Lincoln  county.  That  period  is  memora 
ble  in  the  history  of  Kentucky,  as  one  of  peculiar  peril.  The  woods  literally 
swarmed  with  Indians.  Having  been  reinforced  by  several  white  men,  Logan  de 
termined  to  maintain  himself  at  all  hazards. 

"  On  the  20th  of  May,  1777,  this  fort  was  invested  by  a  force  of  a  hundred  Indians;  and 
on  the  morning  of  that  clay,  as  some  of  the  females  belonging  to  it  were  engaged,  outside 
of  the  gate,  in  milking  the  cows,  the  men  who  acted  as  the  guard  for  the  occasion,  were 
fired  upon  by  a  party  of  the  Indians,  who  had  concealed  themselves  in  a  thick  canebrake. 
One  man  was  shot  dead,  another  mortally  wounded,  and  a  third  so  badly,  as  to  be  disabled 
from  making  his  escape;  the  remainder  made  good  their  retreat  into  the  fort,  and  closed 
the  gate.  Harrison,  one  of  the  wounded  men,  by  a  violent  exertion,  ran  a  few  paces  and 
fell.  His  struggles  and  exclamations  attracted  the  notice,  and  awakened  the  sympathies, 
of  the  inmates  of  the  station.  The  frantic  grief  of  his  wife  gave  additional  interest  to 
the  scene.  T.he  enemy  forbore  to  fire  upon  him,  doubtless  from  the  supposition  that  some 
of  the  garrison  would  attempt  to  save  him,  in  which  event  they  were  prepared  to  fire  upon 
them  from  the  canebrake.  The  case  was  a  trying  one;  and  there  was  a  strong  conflict  be 
tween  sympathy  and  duty,  on  the  part  of  the  garrison.  The  number  of  effective  men  had 
been  reduced  from  fifteen  to  twelve,  and  it  was  exceedingly  hazardous  to  put  the  lives  of 
any  of  this  small  number  in  jeopardy;  yet  the  lamentations  of  his  family  were  so  distress 
ing,  and  the  scene  altogether  so  moving,  as  to  call  forth  a  resolute  determination  to  save 
him  if  possible.  Logan,  always  alive  to  the  impulses  of  humanity,  and  insensible  to  fear, 
volunteered  his  services,  and  appealed  to  some  of  his  men  to  accompany  him.  But  so  ap 
palling  was  the  danger,  that  all,  at  first,  refused.  At  length,  John  Martin  consented,  arid 
rushed,  with  Logan,  from  the  fort;  but  he  had  not  gone  far,  before  he  shrunk  from  the 
imminence  of  the  danger,  and  sprung  back  within  the  gate.  Logan  paused  fora  moment, 
then  dashed  on,  alone  and  undaunted — reached,  unhurt,  the  spot  where  Harrison  lay — 
threw  him  on  his  shoulders,  and,  amidst  a  tremendous  shower  of  rifle  balls,  made  a  safe 
and  triumphant  retreat  into  the  fort. 

The  tort  was  now  vigorously  assailed  by  the  Indian  force,  and  as  vigorously  defended 
by  the  garrison.  The  men  were  constantly  at  their  posts,  whilst  the  women  were  actively 
engaged  in  molding  bullets.  But  the  weakness  of  the  garrison  was  not  their  only  griev 
ance.  The  scarcity  of  powder  and  ball,  one  of  the  greatest  inconveniences  to  which  the 
settlers  were  not  unfrequently  exposed,  began  now  to  be  seriously  felt.  There  were  no  in 
dications  that  the  siege  would  be  speedily  abandoned;  and  a  protracted  resistance  seemed 
impracticable,  without  an  additional  supply  of  the  munitions  of  war.  The  settlements  on 
Holston  could  furnish  a  supply — but  how  was  it  to  be  obtained?  And,  even  if  men  could 
be  found  rash  and  desperate  enough  to  undertake  the  journey,  how  improbable  was  it  that 
the  trip  could  be  accomplished  in  time  for  the  relief  to  be  available.  Logan  stepped  for 
ward,  in  this  extremity,  determined  to  take  the  dangerous  office  upon  himself.  Encour 
aging  his  men  with  the  prospect  of  a  safe  and  speedy  return,  he  left  the  tort  under  cover 
of  the  ni«jht.  and,  attt-ndetl  by  two  faithful  companions  of  his  own  selection,  crept  cau 
tiously  through  the  Indian  lines  without  discovery.  Shunning  the  ordinary  route  through 
Cumberland  Gap,  he  moved,  with  incredible  rapidity,  over  mountain  and  valley — arrived 
at  the  settlement  <]n  the  Holston — procured  the  necessary  supply  of  powder  and  lead— im 
mediately  retraced  his  steps,  and  was  again  in  the  fort  in  ten  days  from  the  time  ot  his 
departure.  He  returned  alone.  The  necessary  delay  in  the  transportation  of  the  stores, 
induced  him  to  intrust  them  to  the  charge  of  .his  companions;  and  his  presence  at  St. 
Asaph's  was  all-important  to  the  safety  of  its  inhabitants.  His  return  inspired  them  with 
fresh  courage;  and,  in  a  few  days,  the  appearance  of  Col.  Bowman's  party  compelled  the 
Indians  to  retire." 

In  the  year  1779,  Lospm  was  first  in  command  under  Bowman,  in  his  expedition 
against  the  1  ndian  town  of  Chillicothe.  It  failed  through  the  imbecility  of  the  com 
mander;  but  Logan  gained  great  credit  for  his  bravery  and  generalship  on  the  occa 
sion.  In  the  summer  of  1788,  he  conducted  a  successful  expedition  against  the 
Indians  in  the  Miami  country.  From  this  period  until  his  death,  Gen.  Logan  de- 
7 


98  KENTUCKY. 

voted  himself  to  the  cultivation  of  his  farm.  He  was  a  member  of  the  convention 
of  1792,  which  framed  the  first  constitutiou  of  Kentucky.  He  died  full  of  years 
and  of  honors. 

Gov.  Isaac  Shelby,  the  first  governor  of  Kentucky,  and  the  "hero  of  two  wars," 

w..3  of  Welsh 
descent,  and 
was  born  near 
Hagarstown, 


age  of  21  years 
he  emigrated 
t  o  Virginia, 

and  engaged  as  a  surveyor  there,  and  in  1775,  in  Kentucky.  Early  in  the  Revo 
lution  he  was,  for  a  time,  in  the  commissary  department;  but  later,  in  1780,  he  was 
commissioned  as  a  colonel  by  Virginia,  and  raised  300  riflemen.  He  gained  great 
distinction  in  several  actions,  especially  in  the  important  battle  of  King's  Moun 
tain,  the  turning  point  of  the  Revolution  in  the  south.  He  was  the  most  promi 
nent  officer  in  this  celebrated  victory,  and  originated  the  expedition  which  led  to 
it  After  this  he  served  under  Gen.  Marion. 

In  1782,  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  Legislature  of  North  Carolina,  but 
soon  after  returned  to  Kentucky,  and  settled  down  upon  a  farm  for  life.  ''He  was 
elected  the  first  governor  of  the  new  state,  and  after  an  interval  of  comparative 
repose,  he  was  again  the  incumbent  of  that  important  office  in  1812.  Another  war 
with  Great  Britain  was  then  impending  The  fire  of  1776  still  warmed  his  bosom, 
and  he  called  his  countrymen  to  arms,  vvhen  the  proclamation  of  war  went  forth. 
Henry  Clay  presented  him  with  a  sword,  voted  by  the  legislature  of  North  Caro 
lina  for  his  gallantry  at  King's  Mountain,  thirty-two  years  before,  and  with  that 
weapon  he  marched  at  the  head  of  four  thousand  Kentucky  volunteers,  toward  the 
Canada  frontier,  in  1813,  though  the  snows  of  three  score  and  three  winters  were 
upon  his  head.  He  fought  gallantly  upo  i  the  Thames,  in  Canada;  and  for  his 
valor  there,  congress  honored  him  with  a  gold  medal.  President  Monroe  appointed 
him  secretary  of  war  in  1817,  but  he  declined  the  honor,  for  he  coveted  the  repose 
which  old  age  demands.  His  last  public  act  was  the  holding  of  a  treaty  with  the 
Chickasaw  Indians,  in  1818,  with  General  Jackson  for  his  colleague.  His  sands 
of  life  were  now  nearly  exhausted.  In  February,  1820,  he  was  prostrated  by  par 
alysis,  yet  he  lived,  somewhat  disabled,  until  the  18th  of  July,  1826,  when  apo 
plexy  terminated  his  life.  He  was  then  almost  seventy-six  years  of  age,  and  died 
as  he  had  lived,  with  the  hope  of  a  Christian." 

Col.  Richard  M.  Johnson,  vice  president  of  the  United  States,  was  born  at  Bry- 
at's  Station,  five  miles  north-east  of  Lexington,  in  Oct.,  1781.  The  outline  of  the 
history  of  this  one  of  the  most  distinguished  natives  of  Kentucky,  is  given  in  the 
monumental  inscription,  copied  on  page  908  of  this  work. 

"  Henry    Clay    was 
born  in  Hanover  county, 
>.  Virginia,  April  12, 1777. 

/Jo  4-  %,  Having  received  a  com 
mon  school  education, 
he  became  at  an  early 
age,  a  copyist  in  the 
office  of  the  clerk  of  the 
court  of  chancery,  at 
Richmond.  At  nine 
teen  he  commenced  the 
study  of  law,  and  short 
ly  afterward  removed  to  Lexington,  Kentucky,  where  he  was  admitted  to  the  bar 
in  1799,  and  soon  obtained  extensive  practice.  He  began  his  political  career,  by 
taking  an  active  part  in  the  election  of  delegates  to  frame  a  new  constitution  for 
the  state  of  Kentucky.  In  1803,  he  was  elected  to  the  legislature  by  the  citizens 


KENTUCKY.  99 

of  Fayette  county;  and  in  1806,  he  was  appointed  to  the  United  States  senate  for 
the  remainder  of  the  term  of  General  Adair,  who  had  resigned.  In  1807  he  was 
again  elected  a  member  of  the  general  assembly  of  Kentucky,  and  was  chosen 
speaker.  In  the  following  year  occurred  his  duel  with  Humphrey  Marshall.  In 
1809,  he  was  again  elected  to  the  United  States  senate  for  the  unexpired  term  of 
Mr.  Thurston,  resigned.  In  181 1,  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  house  of  repre 
sentatives,  and  was  chosen  speaker  on  the  first  day  of  his  appearance  in  that  body 
and  was  five  times  re-elected  to  this  office.  During  this  session,  his  eloquence 
aroused  the  country  to  resist  the  aggressions  of  Great  Britain,  and  awakened  a  na 
tional  spirit  In  1814,  he  was  appointed  one  of  the  commissioners  to  negotiate  a 
treaty  of  peace  at  Ghent.  Returning  from  this  mission,  he  was  re-elected  to  con 
gress,  a.nd  in  1818,  he  spoke  in  favor  of  recognizing  the  independence  of  the  South 
American  Republics.  In  the  same  year,  he  put  forth  his  strength  in  behalf  of  a 
national  system  of  internal  improvements.  A  monument  of  stone,  inscribed  with 
his  name,  was  erected  on  the  Cumberland  road,  to  commemorate  his  services  in 
behalf  of  that  improvement. 

In  the  session  of  1819-20,  he  exerted  himself  for  the  establishment  of  protec 
tion  to  American  industry,  and  this  was  followed  by  services  in  adjusting  the  Mis 
souri  Compromise.  After  the  settlement  of  these  questions,  he  withdrew  from 
congress,  in  order  to  attend  to  his  private  affairs.  In  1823  he  returned  to  congress 
and  was  re-elected  speaker;  and  at  this  session  he  exerted  himself  in  support  of 
the  independence  of  Greece.  Under  John  Quincy  Adams,  he  filled  the  office  of 
secretary  of  state;  the  attack  upon  Mr.  Adams'  administration,  and  especially  upon 
the  secretary  of  state,  by  John  Randolph,  led  to  a  hostile  meeting  between  him  and 
Mr.  Clay,  which  terminated  without  bloodshed.  In  1829  he  returned  to  Kentucky; 
and  in  1831  was  elected  to  the  United  States  senate,  where  he  commenced  his  la 
bors  in  favor  of  the  Tariff;  in  the  same  month  of  his  reappearance  in  the  senate, 
he  was  unanimously  nominated  for  president  of  the  United  States.  In  1836,  he 
was  re-elected  to  the  senate,  where  he  remained  until  1842,  when  he  resigned,  and 
took  his.  final  leave,  as  he  supposed,  of  that  body.  In  1839,  he  was  again  nomi 
nated  for  the  presidency,  but  General  Harrison  was  selected  as  the  candidate.  Ho 
also  received  the  nomination  in  1844,  for  president,  and  was  defeated  in  this  elec 
tion  by  Mr.  Polk. 

He  remained  in  retirement  in  Kentucky  until  1849,  when  he  was  re-elected  to 
the  senate  of  the  United  States.  Here  he  devoted  all  his  energies  to  the  measures 
known  as  the  Compromise  Acts.  His  efforts  during  this  session  weakened  his 
strength,  and  he  went  for  his  health  to  Havana  and  New  Orleans,  but  with  no  per 
manent  advantage ;  he  returned  to  Washington,  but  was  unable  to  participate  in 
the  active  duties  of  the  senate,  and  resigned  his  seat,  to  take  effect  upon  the  6th 
of  September,  1852.  He  died  in  Washington  City,  June  29,  1852.  He  was  inter 
ested  in  the  success  of  the  Colonization  Society,  and  was  for  a  long  time  one  of 
its  most  efficient  officers,  and  also  its  president." 

Gen,  Zachary  Taylor  was  a  Virginian  born,  and  a  Kentuckian  bred.  In  1785, 
while  he  was  an  infant  a  year  old,  his  parents  moved  to  the  vicinity  of  Louis 
ville.  At  the  age  of  24  years,  he  entered  the  army  as  lieutenant  of  infantry,  and 
continued  in  the  service  of  his  country  until  his  death,  while  holding  the  position 
of  President  of  the  United  States,  July  9,  1850,  at  the  age  of  65  years.  ^  His  bio 
graphy  is  written  in  honorable  lines  in  the  history  of  his  country,  and  his  memory 
is  warmly  cherished  in  the  hearts  of  her  people. 


THE   TIMES 

OF 

THE      REBELLION 

KENTUCKY. 


11  KENTUCKY  was  the  first  state  to  enter  the  union,  and  will  he  the 
last  to  leave  it,"  has  long  been  a  popular  expression  in  that  common 
wealth  to  indicate  the  loyalty  of  her  people.  In  this  attachment  to  the 
union  we  perceive  some  of  the  influences  of  a  master  mind.  Had 
Henry  Clay  never  lived,  it  is  extremely  doubtful  whether  Kentucky 
would  have  remained  loyal  to  our  common  country.  His  influence  there 
for  the  right  may  be  compared  to  that  of  John  C.  Calhoun  in  South  Car 
olina  for  the  wrong — both  were  idolized  by  their  respective  peoples :  the 
name  of  Henry  Clay  stands  with  the  nation  as  one  whose  affections 
were  filled  with  the  idea  of  the  glory  and  welfare  of  the  American 
republic :  that  of  John  C.  Calhoun,  as  one  believing  in  a  government 
founded  upon  an  oligarchy,  the  most  terrible  of  all  despotisms — yet 
a  man  of  purer  personal  character  has  rarely  been  known. 

The  impression  made  by  Clay  was  strengthened  by  the  lamented 
Crittenden,  who,  by  words  and  deeds  until  his  latest  breath,  proved 
himself  to  be  a  true  patriot,  for  when  Buckner,  Marshall,  Breckin- 
ridge  and  many  others  threw  their  influence  on  the  side  of  the  rebel 
lion,  he  remained  "faithful  among  the  faithless." 

Kentucky  socially  sympathized  with  the  south,  in  consequence  of 
the  common  bond,  slavery :  and  extensive  family  ties,  the  results  of 
a  large  southern  emigration.  The  young  men  of  the  state  who  had 
come  on  the  stage  since  the  decease  of  Mr.  Clay,  were  more  generally 
southern  in  their  sympathies  than  their  fathers.  The  governor  of  the 
state,  the  late  vice  president  and  many  leading  politicians  were  of  the 
same  school.  When  the  rebellion  broke  out  the  position  of  Kentucky 
was  extremely  precarious.  For  months  it  seemed  uncertain  on  which 
side  of  the  balance  she  would  finally  throw  her  weight.  "When  hostil 
ities  were  first  inaugurated  thousands  of  her  brightest  young  men  left 
to  volunteer  in  the  secession  army;  very  few  joined  that  of  the  union. 
With  her  northern  frontier  lying  for  hundreds  of  miles  alongside  the 
powerful  free  states  of  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois,  containing  nearly 
five  times  her  own  population,  Kentucky  might  well  pause  before  she 
decided  to  bring  upon  her  soil  the  horrors  of  civil  war.  That  she  suf 
fered  to  any  considerable  degree  was  mainly  owing  to  the  disloyalty 

of  a  part  of  her  population. 

(101) 


[02  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

When  upoii  the\faM  ;of 'Sumter,  a  call  for  75000  troops  was  mado 
from  t<he.  Jcwa]L.8tateja  to  defend  the  flag  of  the  country,  she  refused  to 
furnii^er  liiotu.;  Her  gby&rnor,  Beriah  Magoffin,  replied  to  Secretary 
Cameron — "Kentucky  will  furnish  no  troops  for  the  wicked  purpose 
of  subduing  her  sister  southern  states."  On  the  20th  of  May  he  issued 
a  proclamation  of  neutrality  to  the  people  of  Kentucky,  forbidding 
alike  the  passage  of  troops  of  the  United  States  or  of  the  Confederate 
States,  over  the  soil  of  the  state,  or  the  occupation  of  any  point  within 
it,  and  declaring  the  position  of  Kentucky  to  be  one  of  self  defense 
alone.  The  state  senate  also  passed  resolutions  to  the  same  effect  and 
tendered  the  services  of  Kentucky  as  a  mediator  between  the  govern 
ment  and  her  intended  destroyers. 

On  the  9th  of  June  the  convention  of  the  border  slave  states,  holden 
at  Frankfort,  of  which  Hon.  J.  J.  Crittenden  was  president,  and  con 
sisting  of  one  member  from  Tennessee,  four  from  Missouri  and  twelve 
from  Kentucky,  issued  an  address  to  the  nation,  in  which  they  declare 
that  something  ought  to  done  to  quiet  apprehension  within  the  slave 
states  that  already  adhere  to  the  Union.  The  people  of  Kentucky  are 
advised  to  adopt  a  neutral  course  and  to  mediate  between  the  contend 
ing  parties. 

On  the  8th  of  June,  Gen.  S.  B.  Buckner,  commanding  the  state 
guard  of  Kentucky,  entered  into  an  arrangement  with  Gen.  Geo.  B. 
McClellan,  commander  of  the  U.  S.  troops  north  of  the  Ohio,  by  which 
the  neutrality  of  Kentucky  was  guaranteed  ;  that  if  the  soil  of  the 
state  was  invaded  by  the  confederate  forces,  it  was  only  in  the  event 
of  the  failure  of  Kentucky  to  remove  them,  that  the  forces  of  the  U.  S. 
were  to  enter. 

On  the  15th  of'  June,  Gen.  Simon  Bolivar  Buckner  wrote  to  Gov. 
Magoffin,  that  as  the  Tennessee  troops  under  Gen.  Pillow  were  about 
to  occupy  Columbus,  on  the  Mississippi,  he  had  called  out  a  small  mil 
itary  force  to  be  stationed  at  that  place  and  vicinity.  These  consisted 
of  six  companies  of  the  state  guard  under  Col.  Lloyd  Tilghman,  osten 
sibly  summoned  into  service  "to  carry  out  the  obligation  of  neutrality 
which  the  state  had  assumed."  Two  months  later  Gov.  Magoffin  opened 
a  correspondence  with  President  Lincoln  on  this  subject  of  "Kentucky 
neutrality ;"  the  former  complaining  of  the  formation  of  union  military 
camps  in  the  state.  The  president  replied  that  these  were  composed 
entirely  of  Kentuckians  (home  guards),  having  their  camps  in  the  im 
mediate  vicinity  of  their  own  homes,  which  had  been  formed  at  the 
earnest  solicitation  of  many  Kentuckians.  "I  most  cordially,"  said 
Mr.  Lincoln,  "sympathize  with  your  excellency  in  the  wish  to  pre 
serve  the  peace  of  my  native  state  Kentucky.  It  is  with  regret  I 
search  and  can  not  find  in  your  not  very  short  letter,  any  declaration 
or  intimation  that  you  entertain  any  desire  for  the  preservation  of  the 
federal  union." 

At  the  election  held  early  in  August,  the  vote  showed  that  Kentucky 
was  largely  for  the  union.  In  the  western  portion,  in  which  the 
slaveholding  interest  was  the  strongest,  the  majority  of  the  people 
were  secessionists :  the  county  of  Trigg  alone  supplied  400  men  to  the 
rebel  army. 

Notwithstanding  the  drain  of  hot-blooded  young  men  to  the  rebel 
side,  Kentucky  had  furnished  to  the  union  cause  to  the  beginning  of 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

1865,  76,335  troops,  of  which  61,317  were  whites,  and  14,918  colored. 
Beside  this,  thousands  of  her  citizens  in  various  parts  of  the  state  were' 
during  the  rebellion,  actively  employed  as  home  guards,  state  guards! 
state  forces,  etc.,  in  battling  against  a  common  foe,  which  the  successive 
invasions  of  the  state  by  the  enemy,  and  the  distressive  guerrilla  raids 
made  necessary.  And  her  union  officers,  Nelson,  Wood,  Eousseau, 
Canby,  Wolford,  Jacobs,  Fry,  Burbridge,  Crittenden,  Garrard  and 
others  performed  most  efficient  service  on  the  fields  of  blood. 

On  the  2d  of  September,  the  state  legislature  met  at  Frankfort,  three 
fourths  of  the  members  being  unionists.  On  the  5th,  the  confederate 
forces  under  Gen.  Polk  took  possession  of  Columbus.  About  the  same 
time  Gen.  Grant  from  Cairo,  acting  under  the  orders  of  Gen.  Fremont, 
landed  a  body  of  union  troops  at  Paducah.  Prior  to  this  the  neutrality 
of  Kentucky  had  been  respected  by  both  parties.  No  troops  for  the 
defense  of  the  union  had  been  encamped  upon  her  soil,  other  than 
home  guards;  and  many  of  these  were  secretly  secessionists.  The 
first  and  second  Kentucky  regiments,  composed  mostly  of  citizens  of 
Ohio  had  rendezvoused  at  Camp  Clay,  near  Cincinnati;  and  a  body 
of  Kentucky  volunteers  under  General  Lovell  S.  Eousseau,  an  eloquent 
orator  of  the  state,  had  formed  a  camp  on  the  Indiana  shore  opposite 
Louisville.  On  the  12th,  the  legislature,  by  a  vote  of  three  to  one, 
demonstrated  their  loyalty  by  directing  the  governor  to  order  out  the 
military  power  of  the  state,  to  drive  out  and  expel  "the  so-called 
southern  confederate  forces."  At  the  same  time,  General  Robert  An 
derson,  who  had  been  ordered  to  the  command  of  the  troops  of  this 
department,  was  requested  to  immediately  enter  upon  the  active  dis 
charge  of  his  duties. 

Gen.  Buckner,  in  command  of  the  state  guard,  being  in  sympathy 
with  the  rebellion,  had  seduced  to  their  cause  a  large  number  of  the 
young  men  of  Kentucky,  and,  at  this  time,  came  out  openly  for  seces 
sion,  taking  wTith  him  thousands  who  had  been  armed  under  the  guise 
of  protecting  the  state  from  the  invasion  of  either  union  or  rebel 
troops.  In  an  address,  issued  at  Russellville  on  the  12th,  he  said  — 
"Freemen  of  Kentucky,  let  us  stand  by  our  own  lovely  land.  Join 
with  me  in  expelling  from  our  firesides,  the  armies  which  an  insane 
despotism  sends  among  us  to  subjugate  us  to  the  iron  rule  of  puri 
tanical  New  England." 

This  man  Buckner,  and  his  fellow-conspirator,  Breckinridge,  can 
never  be  forgiven  by  the  union  loving  people  of  Kentucky,  for  the 
manner  in  which  the  youth  of  the  state  were  ensnared  into  the  ranks 
of  treason  through  their  wicked  ambition.  What  mother  or  sister  can 
read  the  fate  of  this  one  poor  boy,  as  related  by  Gen.  Eousseau,  with 
out  a  tear  to  his  memory ;  and  a  burning  anathema  upon  his  mur 
derers? 

Two  days  after  the  battle  of  Shiloh,  I  walked  into  the  hospital  tent  on  the 
ground  where  the  fiercest  contest  had  taken  place,  and  where  many  of  our  men 
and  those  of  the  enemy  had  fallen.  The  hospital  was  exclusively  for  the  wounded 
rebels,  and  they  were  laid  thickly  around.  Many  of  them  were  Kentuckians,  of 
Breckinridge's  command.  As  I  stepped  into  the  tent  and  spoke  to  some  one,  I 
was  addressed  by  a  voice,  the  childish  tones  of  which  arrested  my  attention: 
"That's  General  Rousseau!  General,  I  knew  your  son  Dickey.  Where  is  Dick? 
I  knew  him  very  well?" 

Turning  to  him,  I  saw  stretched  on  the  ground  a  handsome  boy  about  sixteen 


104  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

years  of  age.  His  face  was  a  bright  one,  but  the  hectic  glow  and  flush  on  the 
cheeks,  his  restless  manner,  and  his  grasping  and  catching  his  breath,  as  he 
spoke,  alarmed  me.  I  knelt  by  his  side  and  pressed  his  fevered  brow  with  rny 
hand,  and  would  have  taken  the  child  into  ray  arras  if  I  could.  "  And  who  are 
you,  my  son?"  said  I.  "  Why,  I  am  Eddy  McFadden,  from  Louisville,"  was  the 
reply.  "  I  know  you,  general,  and  I  know  your  son  Dick.  I  have  played  with 
him.  Where  is  Dick?" 

I  thought  of  my  own  dear  boy,  of  what  might  have  befallen  him  ;  that  he,  too, 
deluded  by  villains,  might,  like  this  poor  boy,  have  been  mortally  wounded,  among 
strangers,' and  left  to  die.  My  heart  bled  for  the  poor  child,  for  he  was  a  child; 
my  manhood  gave  way,  and  burning  tears  attested,  in  spite  of  me,  my  intense 
suffering. 

I  asked  him  of  his  father?  He  had  no  father.  Your  mother?  He  had  no 
mother.  Brothers  and  sisters  ?  "  I  have  a  brother,"  said  he.  "  I  never  knew 
what  soldiering  was;  I  was  but  a  boy,  and  they  got  me  off  down  here  "  He  was 
shot  through  the  shoulder  and  lungs.  I  asked  him  what  he  needed.  He  said  he 
was  cold,  and  the  ground  was  hard.  I  had  no  tents,  no  blankets ;  our  baggage 
was  all  in  the  rear  at  Savannah.  But  I  sent  the  poor  boy  my  saddle  blanket  and 
returned  the  next  morning  with  lemons  for  him  and  the  rest;  but  his  brother,  in 
the  second  Kentucky  regiment,  had  taken  him  over  to  his  regiment  to  nurse  him. 

1  never  saw  the  child  again.  He  died  in  a  day  or  two.  Peace  to  his  ashes. 
I  never  think  of  this  incident  that  I  do  not  fill  up  as  if  he  were  my  own  child. 

Kentucky  was,  at  this  time,  comparatively  defenseless.  Great  fears 
were  entertained  that  Buckner  would  advance  from  Russellville  by  the 
Nashville  railroad,  and  sieze  upon  Louisville.  If  we  may  believe  the 
reports  of  the  time,  he  had  his  plans  laid  to  appear  suddenly  in  that 
city  with  a  powerful  force.  They  had  provided,  it  was  said,  for  trans 
portation,  no  less  than  four  hundred  cars,  fifteen  locomotives,  and  had 
eight  thousand  men,  with  artillery  and  camp  equipage.  At  a  station 
just  beyond  Green  river,  a  loyal  young  man  in  the  service  of  the 
road,  frustrated  their  plans  by  wrenching,  with  a  crow-bar,  four  rails 
from  the  track.  This  threw  the  train  oif,  and  caused  a  detention  of 
twenty -four  hours,  and  thus  saved  the  city.  On  the  21st,  Buckner  de 
stroyed  several  locks  and  dams  on  Green  river,  as  a  military  measure. 
These  had  been  constructed  at  an  immense  expense,  and  opened  a 
river  market  for  the  whole  of  the  large  population  of  that  section. 
In  one  night  they  were  remorselessly  annihilated  by  this  "renegade 
Kentuckian."  Later,  he  destroyed  the  elegant  and  costly  iron  rail 
road-bridge  over  the  same  river. 

In  the  latter  part  of  September,  the  brigade  of  Kousseau  advanced 
down  on  the  line  of  the  Nashville  railroad  to  protect  Louisville  from 
invasion,  and  large  bodies  of  volunteers  from  the  free  states  of  the 
west  were  pushed  forward,  during  the  autumn  and  early  winter,  into 
the  state — located  at  different  camps  and  subjected  to  a  severe  disci 
pline.  The  most  prominent  of  these  was  camp  Dick  Eobinson,  in 
Garrard  county,  south  of  Lexington;  at  Paducah,  on  the  lower  Ohio; 
and  Munfordsville,  on  the  Lexington  and  Nashville  railroad. 

The  rebels  held  positions  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state;  at  Co 
lumbus,  on  the  Mississippi ;  at  Bowlinggreen,  on  the  Nashville  rail 
road  ;  at  and  near  Cumberland  Gap,  at  the  southeastern  angle  of  the 
state;  and  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Big  Sandy,  on  the  Virginia  line. 

Early  in  October,  Gen.  Anderson  was  succeeded  in  command  of  this 
department  by  Gen.  W.  T.  Sherman.  The  months  of  anxiety  and 
care  incident  upon  the  defense  of  Fort  Sumter  had  so  shattered  his 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

health   and   nervous  system  as  to  render  Gen.  Anderson   incapable 
of  attending  to  the  arduous  duties  of  this  position. 

On  the  16th,  Gen.  Sherman  was  visited  by  Secretary  Cameron,  and  in  the  re 
port  of  the  interview  between  them,  made  by  Adjutant-general  Thomas,  General 
Sherman  gave  "a  gloomy  picture  of  affairs  in  Kentucky."  He  represented  that 
"the  young  men  were  generally  secessionists  and  had  joined  the  confederates, 
while  the  union  men,  the  aged  and  conservatives  would  not  enrol  themselves  to 
engage  in  conflict  with  their  relations  on  the  other  side.  But  few  regiments  could 
be  raised.  He  said  that  Buckner  was  in  advance  of  Green  river  with  a  heavy 
force  on  the  road  to  Louisville,  and  an  attack  might  be  daily  expected,  which, 
with  the  force  he  had,  he  would  not  be  able  to  resist;  but,  nevertheless,  he  would 
fight  them."  He  was  then  "of  the  opinion,  that  an  army  of  200,000  men  would 
be  necessary  to  cope  with  the  enemy  in  the  west." 

Such  was  the  feeble  estimate  of  the  strength  of  the  rebels,  alike  by  the  govern 
ment  and  the  people,  that  this  apparently  exaggerated  view  met  with  unmeasured 
ridicule.  Some  of  the  public  prints,  in  a  spirit  of  malevolence,  stated  he  was  in 
sane;  and,  fora  time,  it  passed  into  popular  belief.  Sherman,  who  knew — as 
but  few  men  know  —  the  power,  and  the  intense  burning  hate  of  the  rebels,  could 
but  feel  to  the  inmost  depths  of  his  strong  nature  the  force  of  the  couplet: 

"  Truths  would  ye  teach  to  save  a  sinking  land, 
Most  shun  you,  few  listen,  and  none  understand." 

Stung  by  neglect  and  obloquy/this  proud,  earnest-hearted  man  resigned,  and 
to  give  place  to  Gen.  Don  Carlos  Buell. 

Three  years  later,  away  in  the  far  south,  an  union  army  was  marching  in  the 
mud  and  rain  over  miles  of  dreary  road,  when  some  soldiers  observing  an  officer 
laying  by  the  path  with  his  face  hidden  among  the  rising  weeds,  exclaimed,  "there 
lies  one  of  our  generals  dead  drunk!  "  which  overhearing,  the  latter  raised  upon 
his  elbow  and  with  a  kindly  voice,  and  in  low,  depressed  tones,  replied:  "Not 
drunk,  boys!  but  weak  and  weary  in  working  for  our  country  and  for  you!" 
Great  events  then  passing,  demonstrated  the  wisdom,  and  greater  fields  than  the 
department  of  Kentucky,  the  transcendent  genius  of  Sherman  in  war. 

The  secessionists  of  the  state,  in  December,  formed  a  provisional 
government,  with  Geo.  W.  Johnson,  subsequently  killed  at  Shiloh,  as 
governor.  They  sent  delegates  to  the  rebel  congress,  at  Eichmond; 
and  that  body  recognized  Kentucky  as  a  member  of  the  southern  con 
federacy. 

Skirmishes. —  During  the  autumn,  various  skirmishes  occurred  at 
different  points  in  Kentucky,  between  the  rebels  and  unionists.  The 
most  prominent  of  these  occurred  to  the  union  forces  under  General 
Schoepf,  at  camp  Wild  Cat,  in  Laurel  county,  on  the  21st  of  October. 
This  was  a  position  in  south-eastern  Kentucky,  on  the  route  to  Cum 
berland  Gap,  selected  to  give  protection  to  the  union  men  of  that 
mountain  region.  A  hill,  half  a  mile  east  of  the  camp,  was  occupied 
by  detachments  of  the  33d  Indiana,  17th  and  14th  Ohio,  and  Wol- 
ford's  Kentucky  cavalry.  They  were  attacked  by  several  regiments 
of  Gen.  Zollicoffer's  command,  who  made  two  separate,  resolute,  and 
unsuccessful  attempts  to  carry  the  position.  The  union  loss  was  4 
killed  and  21  wounded  ;  that  of  the  enemy  was  much  greater,  as  19 
corpses  were  found  on  the  field.  Two  days  later  Len.  Harris'  2d  Ohio, 
supported  by  two  6-pounders  and  a  company  of  cavalry,  surprised  a 
body  of  700  rebels,  at  West  Liberty,  in  Morgan  county,  killing  10  of 
them,  and  scattering  the  remainder.  On  the  8th  of  November,  Col. 
John  S.  Williams,  who  had  gathered  about  2,000  rebels  at  Ivy  creek. 
:n  Pike  county,  near  the  Virginia  line,  was  attacked  and  routed  by  a 


106  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

part  of  Nelson's  brigade,  consisting  of  the  2d  and  21st  Ohio  and  Met 
calfe's  Kentuckians.     The  enemy's  loss  was  about  60. 

Disastrous  Retreat. — Gen.  Schoepf's  brigade,  called  "the  Wild-cat 
brigade,"  at  this  period,  were  stationed  at  London,  in  Laurel  county, 
the  object  being  to  ultimately  make  an  attack  on  Cumberland  Gap, 
and  enter  East  Tennessee  to  give  relief  to  the  unionists  of  that  region. 
For  this  purpose,  several  hundred  loyal  Tennesseans  had  joined  them. 

On  the  13th,  Gen.  Sehoepf  received  orders  to  retreat  with  all  possible  expedition 
to  Crab  Orchard,  and  to  bring  on  his  sick,  of  whom  h«  had  a  large  number.  The 
retreat  was  disastrous,  over  the  mountain  roads  and  in  the  rain,  bearing  in  its  as 
pects  the  appearance  of  a  routed  and  pursued  army.  It  continued  through  three 
days.  The  sick  were  jostled  in  open  wagons  over  horrible  roads,  and  through 
swollen  mountain  torrents.  The  officers,  without  tents  or  shelter,  were  exposed 
day  and  night  to  the  cold  wintry  rains  of  that  elevated  region.  The  sufferings  of 
the  men  were  so  severe  that  several  died  from  pure  exhaustion;  while  others  re 
vived  with  shattered  health  and  ruined  constitutions.  The  Tennesseans,  who  had 
been  brought  up  with  the  hope  of  soon  returning  to  their  homes,  were  especially 
indignant  at  this  retrograde  movement. 

Whole  platoons  and  companies  of  them  at  first  refused  to  march.  "  Some  lay 
upon  the  ground  weeping  like  school-children,  many  madly  cursed,  as  they  broke 
from  the  ranks,  and  a  few  stood  with  folded  arms,  leaning  upon  their  muskets, 
while  the  contending  passions  of  a  soldier's  fidelity  and  a  love  of  home  were  fight 
ing  for  mastery  in  their  breasts." 

The  order  for  this  retreat  was  given  in  consequence  of  a  report  that  the  enemy 
Tjrere  about  to  advance  from  Bowlinggreen  in  force,  on  Louisville.  The  sufferings 
and  losses  by  it  were  equal  to  a  defeat.  The  moral  effect  was  disastrous,  for  the 
rebel  mountaineers  who  had  been  overawed,  soon  again  arose  in  swarms,  ready 
for  mischief. 

Fight  at  Munfordsville. — The  first  earnest  fight  in  Central  Kentucky 
took  place,  on  the  17th  of  December,  on  Green  river,  near  Munfords 
ville,  at  which  point  was  stationed  the  division  of  Gen.  McCook.  The 
enemy  attacked  the  pickets,  consisting  of  four  coumpanies  of  the  32d 
Indiana,  Willich's  German  regiment,  under  Lieut. -Col.  Yon  Treba. 
Col.  Terry's  regiment  of  Texas  rangers  made  several  desperate 
charges;  but  were  received  with  cool  courage  by  the  Germans.  One 
of  the  companies,  Capt.  Welshbillig's,  consisting  of  about  50  men,  were 
drawn  up  in  a  solid  square,  received  three  successive  charges  of  some 
200  of  the  rangers,  led  on  by  Col.  Terry,  who,  seeming  frantic  with 
rage,  rode  up  to  the  points  of  the  bayonets,  under  the  impression, 
doubtless,  that  they  could  trample  down  the  squad  before  them.  At 
the  third  attack,  their  colonel  was  killed,  upon  which  the  whole  col 
umn  broke  and  fled  in  dismay.  The  Germans  lost  the  brave  Lieut. 
Sachs,  of  Cincinnati,  8  killed  and  10  wounded.  The  killed,  alone,  of 
the  enemy  was  33. 

Marshall's  Defeat— Early  in  the  year  (1862)  Col.  Humphrey  Mar 
shall,  an  ex-member  of  congress  from  central  Kentucky,  had  collected 
a  force  of  3,500  rebels  in  northeastern  Kentucky,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Big  Sandy,  near  Prestonburg.  On  the  10th  of  January,  he  occupied 
a  position,  defended  by  three  cannon,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  at  the 
forks  of  Middle  creek.  He  was  attacked  in  the  morning  by  Col.  J.  A. 
Garfield  with  900  men,  consisting  of  parts  of  the  40th  and  42d  Ohio, 
and  14th  and  22d  Kentucky.  The  fight  lasted  from  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  until  half  past  four  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  enemy 
retreated  —  driven  from  every  point  in  great  disorder,  burying  his 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

stores,  and  leaving  85  of  his  number  dead  on  the  field.  He  acknowl 
edged  to  a  loss  of  125  killed,  and  a  greater  number  wounded ;  25 
prisoners  were  taken.  The  union  loss  was  only  1  killed,  and  20 
wounded. 

This  victory  was  owing  to  the  admirable  dispositions  of  Garfield,  the  inefficient 
fire-arms  of  the  enemy,  and  the  miserable  firing  of  their  artillery.  Aside  from 
this,  they  were  attacked  from  a  lower  position,  the  smoke  slowly  ascending,  first 
disclosing  the  lower  part  of  their  bodies  to  the  union  soldiers  beneath  them,  while 
the  latter  were  concealed  from  view. 

This  Col.  Garfield  was  born  near  Cleveland,  Ohio,  in  1831. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  war  he  was  a  clergyman  and  president  of  a  collegiate 
institution,  at  Hiram,  in  northern  Ohio.  Physically,  he  is  one  of  the  most  power 
ful  of  men.  He  remained  with  his  brigade  on  the  Big  Sandy  for  several  months, 
winning  laurels  by  his  daring  and  energy  against  the  enemy,  whose  camps  he  sur 
prised  and  broke  up,  finally  producing  quiet  in  that  mountain  region.  He  rose 
rapidly  in  the  service,  became  chief  of  staff  to  Rosecrans;  and  was  made  major- 
general  for  distinguished  services  at  Chickaraaugua.  Later,  he  represented  the 
northeastern  district  of  Ohio  in  congress,  and  by  a  greater  majority  than  any  other 
member  in  the  house.  He  at  once  won  there  a  national  reputation  for  eloquence 
and  force  of  character. 

VICTORY  AT  MILL  SPRINGS  OR  LOGAN'S  CROSS  ROADS. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  winter,  Gen.  Felix  K.  Zollicoffer,  of  Ten 
nessee,  crossed  to  the  north  side  of  Cumberland  river,  and  built  a  for 
tified  camp  at  Beech  Grove.  From  this  point,  Zollicoffer  had  issued  a 
proclamation  to  the  people  of  southeastern  Kentucky,  calling  upon 
them  to  strike  with  the  south  for  independence.  He  said  they  had 
come  to  repel  the  northern  hordes  who  were  attempting  their  subjuga 
tion,  with  an  ultimate  design  of  freeing  and  arming  their  slaves  and 
giving  them  political  and  social  equality  with  the  whites. 

Beech  Grove  is  some  12  miles  south  of  Somerset,  in  Pulaski,  co., 
and  80  miles  due  south  of  Lexington.  The  position  was  a  very  strong 
one  by  nature,  being  across  a  bend  of  the  Cumberland,  and  it  was 
greatly  strengthened  by  earthworks.  Three  days  before  the  battle, 
one  of  his  officers  wrote:  "  Our  forces  are,  10,000  infantry,  1.800  cav 
alry,  and  16  pieces  of  artillery.  We  are  waiting  for  an  attack.  If 
they  do  not  attack  us,  we  shall  advance  upon  them :  we  can  whip 
50,000." 

At  this  time  Gen.  Schoepf  had  a  few  regiments  at  Somerset.  It  was 
arranged  that  Gen.  Thomas,  who  with  his  brigade  was  stationed  at 
Columbia,  35  miles  west  of  this  point,  should  join  his  command  with 
that  at  Somerset,  and  the  combined  forces  unite  in  an  attack  on  the 
camp  of  the  enemy.  On  Saturday,  January  18th,  part  of  the  troop* 
of  both  these  officers,  in  all  amounting  to  about  7000  men,  had  formed 
a  junction  at  Logan  Cross  Eoads,  seven  miles  north  of  Zollicoffer 'e 
camp,  and  under  Gen.  Thomas.  That  night,  an  old  lady  of  secession 
fancies,  who  had  seen  only  one  or  two  regiments  of  the  union  troops, 
as  they  forded  the  stream  by  her  cabin,  mounted  her  pony  and  rode 
into  the  rebel  camp  with  the  pleasing  tidings  of  an  opportunity  to  sur 
prise  and  "bag"  the  invaders.  This  confirmed,  in  their  view,  the  in 
telligence  received  that  afternoon  from  their  own  scouts,  as  to  the 
*mall  body  of  their  enemy  in  front.  Major  Gen.  George  B.  Crittenden 
(son  of  Hon.  J.  J.  Crittenden),  who  had  arrived  and  taken  the  chief 


108  TIMES  OP  THE  REBELLION 

command,  called  a  council.  It  was  resolved  to  march  out  and  make 
the  attack  at  daybreak.  In  perfect  silence,  at  midnight,  the  march 
of  the  force  began,  consisting  of  8  infantry  regiments,  viz:  6  Ten 
nessee,  1  Alabama,  and  1  Mississippi,  and  2  batteries  of  artillery,  a  large 
force  of  cavalry,  and  several  independent  companies  of  infantry. 

About  half  past  5  o'clock,  the  next  (Sunday)  morning,  the  pickets 
from  Wolford's  Kentucky  cavalry  being  driven  in,  gave  intelligence 
of  the  approach  of  the  rebels.  Fry's  4th  Kentucky,  Hanson's  10th  In 
diana,  and  Wolford's  cavalry,  then  engaged  the  enemy  at  the  point 
where  the  road,  from  the  camp  of  the  latter  to  Somerset,  forked.  The 
enemy  were  advancing  through  a  cornfield,  and  evidently  endeavoring 
to  gain  the  left  of  the  4th  Kentucky,  which  was  with  spirit  maintain 
ing  its  position.  McCook's  9th  Ohio,  under  the  immediate  command 
of  Major  Kaemmerling  and  Yan  Cleve's  2d  Minnesota  came  to  the 
support  of  the  others,  while  a  section  of  Kinney's  battery  took  a  po 
sition  on  the  edge  of  the  field  to  the  left  of  the  4th  Kentucky,  and 
opened  an  efficient  fire  on  the  advancing  Alabama  regiment.  As  the 
4th  Kentucky  and  10th  Indiana  were  by  this  time  nearly  out  of  am 
munition,  the  2d  Minnesota  took  their  position,  while  the  9th  Ohio,  at 
the  same  time,  occupied  the  right  of  the  road,  both  regiments  being 
under  the  command  of  Col.  Eobt.  L.  McCook,  of  the  9th  Ohio,  acting 
brigadier.  At  this  time,  Hoskins'  12th  Kentucky,  and  some  of  the 
men  of  the  Tennessee  brigade  reached  the  field,  to  the  left  of  the  Min 
nesota  regiment,  and  opened  fire  on  the  right  of  the  enemy,  who  then 
began  to  fall  back.  The  key  to  the  enemy's  position  was  in  front  of 
the  9th  Ohio  and  2d  Minnesota,  and  the  contest  there  was  maintained 
bravely  on  both  sides.  Says  McCook  in  his  report : 

"On  the  right  of  the  Minnesota  regiment  the  contest,  at  first,  was  almost  hand 
to  hand ;  the  enemy  and  the  2d  Minnesota  were  poking  their  guns  through  the 
same  fence  at  each  other.  However,  before  the  fight  continued  long  in  this  way, 
that  portion  of  the  enemy  contending  with  the  2d  Minnesota  regiment,  retired  in 
good  order  to  some  rail  piles,  hastily  thrown  together,  the  point  from  which  they  had 
advanced  upon  the  4th  Kentucky.  This  portion  of  the  enemy  obstinately  main 
taining  its  position,  and  the  balance,  as  before  described,  a  desperate  fight  was  con 
tinued  for  about  30  minutes  with  seemingly  doubtful  result.  The  importance  of  pos 
sessing  the  log  house,  stable  and  corncrib  being  apparent,  companies  A,  B,  C  and  D 
of  the  9th  Ohio,  were  ordered  to  flank  the  enemy  upon  the  extreme  left,  and  obtain 
possession  of  the  house.  This  done  :  still  the  enemy  stood  firm  to  his  position  and 
oover.  During  this  time,  the  artillery  of  the  enemy  constantly  overshot  my  brigade. 
Seeing  the  superior  number  of  the  enemy,  and  their  bravery,  I  concluded  the  best 
mode  of  settling  the  contest  was  to  order  the  9th  Ohio  regiment  to  charge  the  ene 
my's  position  with  the  bayonet,  and  turn  his  left  flank.  The  order  was  given  the  reg 
iment  to  empty  their  guns  and  fix  bayonets.  This  done,  it  was  ordered  to  charge. 
Every  man  sprang  to  it,  with  alacrity  and  vociferous  cheering.  The  enemy  seem 
ingly  prepared  to  resist  it,  but  before  the  regiment  reached  him,  the  lines  com 
menced  to  give  way;  but  few  of  them  stood,  possibly  ten  or  twelve.  This  broke 
the  enemy's  flank,  and  the  whole  line  gave  way  in  great  confusion,  and  the  whole 
turned  into  a  perfect  rout."  This  is  remarkable  for  having  been  the  first  bayonet 
charge  of  the  war. 

The  entire  division  soon  advanced  under  Gen.  Thomas,  and  the  en 
emy,  with  scarcely  the  show  of  resistance,  were  driven  into  their  in- 
trenchments,  where  they  were  cannonaded  until  dark.  That  night 
they  secretly  withdrew  across  the  Cumberland,  and  fled  into  the  interior. 
The  Union  forces,  next  morning,  marched  into  their  camp  and  took 


IN  KENTUCKY. 


109 


possession.  The  total  union  loss  was  246,  of  whom  39,  less  than  one 
sixth,  were  killed ;  the  small  proportion  of  the  latter,  was  owing  to  the 
inefficient  arms  of  the  enemy,  many  of  whom  bore  only  shot  guns. 
Among  our  severely  wounded  were  Col.  McCook  and  his  aid,  Lieut. 
A.  S.  Burt.  The  enemy's  loss  in  killed  alone,  as  far  as  known,  was  190; 
which,  with  the  wounded  and  prisoners  that  fell  into  our  hands,  made 
a  total  of  349.  The  number  of  the  enemy  actually  engaged  was  esti 
mated  at  7000,  and  the  union  forces  at  half  that  number.  Spoils  to 
the  value  of  half  a  million  of  dollars  fell  into  our  hands — horses,  mules, 
wagons,  tents,  cannon,  arms,  etc.  This  was  the  battle  in  which  the 
distinguished  Gen.  Oreo.  H.  Thomas  won  his  first  laurels. 

INCIDENTS. — Early  in  the  action,  while  attempting  to  make  a  flank 
movement,  Gen.  Zollicoffer  was  killed,  which  greatly  disheartened  the 
enemy. 

His  body  fell  into  our  hands,  and  was  found,  with  several  wounds.  The  fatal 
shot  was  from  a  pistol  in  the  hands  of  Col.  S.  S.  Fry,  of  the  4th  Kentucky.  His 
body  was  subsequently  returned,  under  a  flag  of  truce,  in  an  elegant  coffin  to  his 
friends.  He  was  about  48  years  of  age,  and  had  been  a  member  of  congress  from 
Tennessee.  He  was  a  man  of  elegant  form,  and  a  general  favorite  in  his  state. 
Parson  Brownlow  said  of  him :  "  Now  that  he  is  dead  and  gone,  I  take  occasion  to 
say,  that  I  have  known  him  for  twenty-five  years,  and  a  more  noble,  high-toned, 
honorable  man,  was  never  killed  in  any  battle-field.  He  was  a  man  who  never 
wronged  an  individual  out  of  a  cent  in  his  life — never  told  a  lie  in  his  life ;  as 
brave  a  man  personally  as  Andrew  Jackson  ever  was,  and  the  only  mean  thing  I 
ever  knew  him  to  do  was  to  join  the  Southern  Confederacy  and  fight  under  such  a 
cause  as  he  was  engaged  in  when  he  fell." 

Bailie  Peyton,  jr.,  another  of  the  rebel  dead,  was  shot  while  bravely  urging  on 
his  men  :  "  He  was  the  son  of  a  venerable  Virginian,  well  known  to  the  nation. 
Young  Peyton,  like  his  father,  long  struggled  against  disunion.  He  was  hissed 
and  insulted  in  the  streets  of  Richmond,  after  the  fall  of  Sumter,  for  telling  his 
love  of  the  old  union."  Col.  Allan  Battle,  who  commanded  a  Tennessee  regment, 
was  another  unwilling  convert  He  was  educated  at  an  Ohio  college,  and  married 
into  one  of  the  best  known  and  respected  Ohio  families.  In  the  summer  previous 
he  took  his  young  wife  to  Nashville,  intending  soon  to  return  north;  ^-it  his  father 
and  brothers  were  in  the  secession  army,  and  he  succumbed  to  the  pressure,  al 
though  he  said  he  "  hated  the  war,  and  felt  unwilling  to  fight  the  best  friends  he 
had  in  the  world,  outside  of  his  own  family." 

A  gentleman  who  was  on  the  field,  just  after  the  battle,  gives  these 
interesting  particulars : 

My  own  brave  boy  was  either  among  the  slain  or  pursuing  the  flying  foe.  Ill 
which  of  these  positions  I  might  find  him,  I  knew  not.  With  all  the  anxieties  com 
mon  to  parents,  I  searched  for  his  well-known  countenance  among  the  slain.  So 
close  was  the  resemblance  in  many  cases,  that  my  pulse  quickened,  and  my  brain 
began  to  reel.  I  remembered  that  he  wore  a  pair  of  boots  of  peculiar  make,  and 
before  1  looked  in  the  face  of  a  corpse  I  looked  at  the  boots,  till  at  last  I  felt  con 
fident  I  had  found  what  I  sought.  1  looked  again  and  again  before  1  dared  to  let 
mv  eyes  rest  upon  the  face.  There  was  a  mark — not  on  his. 

"I  passed  on  in  haste,  but  suddenly  felt  compelled  to  stop  once  more;  against 
a  tree,  leaned  back  in  the  most  classic  composure,  was  the  fairest  and  most  beau 
tiful  countenance  I  ever  saw  in  death.  No  female  complexion  could  be  more 
spotless.  The  silky  locks  of  wavy  auburn  hair  fell  in  rjch  profusion  upon  iair 
temples,  and  a  faultless  forehead.  Some  friendly  hand  had  parted  his  garments, 
baring  his  breast,  from  which  the  red  current  of  life  flowed  out,  and  had  bathed 
his  temples,  which  were  still  warm,  but  had  ceased^to  throb  forever.  O,  ye  winds, 
bear  these  tidings  softly  to  the  loved  ones  at  home." 

In  the  "  old  fields  "  among  the  rebels,  some  of  the  scenes  were  horrid  and  i 


HO  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

volting  in  the  extreme.  Several  of  the  dead  were  old  and  gray-headed  men.  A 
dark  coraplexioned  man,  with  a  heavy  black  beard,  who  said  he  was  from  Missis 
sippi,  was  lying  on  the  ground  with  a  broken  thigh.  He  was  stern  and  sullen — 
he  had  only  one  favor  to  ask — that  was  that  some  one  of  us  would  kill  him.  I 
Haid  to  him,  we  will  soon  take  you  to  the  surgeon,  and  do  all  we  can  to  relieve  you, 
for  we  are  satisfied  you  have  been  deceived  by  wicked  men,  and  do  not  know 
what  you  have  been  doing.  To  which  he  meekly  replied — "  that  is  possible,"  A 
young  man,  quite  a  boy,  begged  me  not  to  let  the  Lincolnites  kill  him.  A  lad  of 
fourteen,  with  a  mashed  ankle,  protested  his  innocence,  and  begged  to  be  taken 
care  of.  He  said  he  was  pressed  into  the  service,  and  had  never  fired  a  gun  at  a 
union  man,  and  never  would.  Numbers  of  rebels  made  in  effect  the  same  declar 
ation. 

The  Enemy's  Camp. — On  entering  the  enemy  s  entrenchments,  we 
found  the  camp  surrounded  by  a  breastwork  over  a  mile  in  circumfer 
ence,  with  a  deep  ditch  in  front. 

"Within  it  seemed  a  city:  houses,  streets,  lanes,  stores,  stables,  everything  complete, 
except  the  inhabitants.  Chickens,  pigs  and  turkeys  were  as  numerous  as  are  to  be  seen 
about  a  thrifty  farmer's  barn-yard.  Over  five  hundred  neat  and  well  built  log  houses 
were  to  be  seen,  with  all  the  conveniences  of  house-keeping  to  be  found  about  them — beds 
and  bedding,  clothing  and  furniture,  trunks  and  boxes,  provisions  and  groceries,  were  left 
untouched." 

"  Everything  bore  the  appearance  of  the  proprietors  having  just  stepped  out,  for  a  mo 
ment,  to  soon  again  return.  Horses  were  left  hitched  in  the  stables,  and  wagons  left 
standing  ready  for  necessary  use.  Every  tent  was  left  standing  as  when  the  master 
was  at  home.  On  going  to  the  river  bank,  the  number  of  three  hundred  wagons  was  there 
found  standing,  all  loaded  with  camp  equipage,  etc.  Here,  also,  were  found  fourteen  pieces 
of  artillery,  in  perfect  order  for  use;  they  not  even  taking  time  to  spike  them,  while  on 
their  flight." 

The  Panic. — The  enemy  fled  across  the  country,  and  scattered  into 
the  interior  in  a  terrible  panic  and  state  of  demoralization.  The  im 
passable  condition  of  the  roads,  prevented  a  successful  pursuit. 

A  very  graphic  account  of  the  retreat  is  thus  given  by  a  lady  living 
on  the  road,  a  short  distance  above  Monti  cello : 

Early  on  Monday  morning,  they  commenced  passing  along  the  road,  and  through  the 
fields,  some  riding,  some  on  foot.  Some  wagons  had  passed  during  the  night.  All  who 
could  seemed  inclined  to  run. 

During  the  forepart  of  the  day,  men  passing  on  foot  had  taken  every  horse,  often  with 
out  bridle  or  saddle  ;  at  times  a  string  was  used  in  place  of  bridles.  Not  a  horse  was  left 
along  the  road.  One  of  their  wagons  would  be  passing  alone  a  high  road.  Any  one  who 
would  come  along,  cut  a  horse  loose,  mount  and  a  way.  Another  would  follow  suit,  until 
the  wagoner  was  left  with  his  saddle  horse,  and  he  would  follow.  She  often  saw  as  many 
as  three  men  on  one  horse.  About  11  o'clock  in  the  morning  they  commenced  calling  on 
her  for  food — said  they  had  not  tasted  food  since  early  Sunday  morning.  Strange  looking 
men  would  lean  against  the  yard  fence,  and  call  for  a  morsel  of  bread.  "  Oh,"  said  they,  "  we 
have  lost  everything,  we  are  ruined,"  and  cried  like  children.  One  old  man  from  Alabama, 
with  two  sons,  stopped  to  rest  a  few  moments.  He  could  scarcely  totter  to  a  seat.  He 
had  been  sick  for  months.  When  he  started  to  go  on  she  invited  him  to  stay.  "  No,"  he 
said,  "  the  Yankees  are  close  after  me,  and  will  cotch  and  kill  me."  Many  others,  sick  and 
wounded,  would  stop  a  few  moments,  but  none  would  remain.  The  dread  Yankees  would 
eotch  and  kill  them. 

She  told  them  Yankees  never  killed  a  captured  foe ;  but,  it  had  all  no  effect  to  check 
their  mortal  fear.  One  man  passed  with  his  brother  on  his  back.  Two  would  be  leading 
and  supporting  one.  Three  or  four  would  be  packing  one.  A  great  many  wounded  passed. 
One  had  an  arm  shot  off,  tied  up  with  a  rag,  some  of  their  wounds  appeared  to  have  been 
dressed  by  a  surgeon. 

About  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  some  400  had  halted  in  a  field  nearby.  Some  guns  were 
fired  off  up  the  road,  they -rushed  around,  and  into  her  house  and  kitchen,  holding  up  their 
hands  in  terror,  saying,  they  would  be  all  killed  for  they  could  run  no  further,  and  their 
guns  were  thrown  away.  The  firing  was  found  to  be  a  few  of  their  own  men  shooting  off 
their  guns  to  re-load  ;  it  was  a  wet  day,  and  they  were  constantly  expecting  an  attack. 

"  Well,"  said  I,  "  Mrs.  H.,  how  did  it  affect  you  ?" 

She  said  she  would  have  helped  to  hang  the  lust  one,  as  they  went  up,  with  a  good  will, 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

but  their  terrible  fear  and  distressed  condition  made  her  forget,  for  tbe  time,  their" being 
enemies,  and  she  and  her  negroes  cooked  and  fed,  and  occasionally  dressed  their  wounds 
till  long  into  the  night. 

Had  the  enemy  been  victorious,  they  would  have  had  but  little  dif 
ficulty  in  marching  upon  Lexington,  for  the  time  crushing  the  union 
strength  in  the  heart  of  Kentucky.  The  moral  effect  of  this  victory 
can  scarcely  be  overestimated.  It  was  the  first  of  that  chain  of  tri 
umphs  in  the  West,  which  opened  the  new  year,  and  continued  on 
without  interruption  until  after  the  fall  of  New  Orleans. 

CAPTURE    OF    FORTS   HENRY   AND   DONELSON. 

These  forts,  though  both  in  Tennessee,  just  south  of  the  state  line, 
are  so  intimately  connected  with  the  history  of  the  war  in  Kentucky, 
as  to  necessarily  belong  to  it. 

Fort  Henry  was  taken  by  the  gun -boat  fleet,  under  Com.  Foote,  on 
the  6th  of  February,  1862,  after  a" brisk  engagement  of  one  hour.  The 
terms  of  the  surrender  were  unconditional,  and  the  victory,  though  al 
most  a  bloodless  one,  proved  to  be  of  vast  importance.  When  the  at 
tack  was  made,  seven  or  eight  thousand  rebel  soldiers  were  in  the  rifle 
pits,  and  behind  the  breastworks;  but  they  became  terror  stricken — 
officers  and  men  alike  lost  all  self-control — they  ran  to  escape  the  fear 
ful  storm  of  shot  and  shell,  leaving  arms,  ammunition,  tents,  blankets, 
trunks,  clothes,  books,  letters,  papers,  pictures,  everything.  All  fled, 
excepting  a  brave  little  band  in  the  fort. 

Com.  Foote,  who  in  this  and  subsequent  engagements  gained  so  much 
eclat,  was  born  in  Connecticut,  the  son  of  one  of  its  governors,  and  had 
been  in  the  service  about  forty  years. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  war  he  was  transferred  from  the  command  of  the  navy 
yard,  at  Brooklyn,  to  that  of  the  western  flotilla.  The  religious  characteristics 
of  this  veteran  were  remarkable.  The  Sunday  after  taking  the  fort,  he  attended 
the  Presbyterian  church,  at  Cairo,  and  in  the  unexpected  absence  of  the  pastor, 
he  officiated,  seeming  to  be  as  much  at  home  in  preaching  as  in  fighting,  fie  ex 
temporized  an  excellent  discourse  from  the  text,  "  Let  not  your  hearts  be  troubled; 
ye  believe  in  God,  believe  also  in  me."  He  raised  his  voice  in  humble  acknow 
ledgment  to  heaven  for  the  victory,  asked  for  future  protection,  and  showed  that 
happiness  depends  upon  purity  of  life,  and  a  conscientious  performance  of  duty. 

The  capture  of  Fort  Donelson  was  an  affair  of  much  more  magnifi 
cent  proportions,  and,  beyond  question,  one  of  the  grandest  operations 
of  this,  or  any  other  war. 

In  the  early  summer  of  1861,  the  rebels  began  the  erection  of  a  fort 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Cumberland.  107  miles  from  its  mouth ;  12 
miles  east  from  Fort  Henry,  and  a  few  miles  south  of  the  Kentucky 
line,  which  they  named  from  the  Andrew  Jackson  Donelson  family  of 
Tennessee.  It  was  made  the  best  military  work  on  the  southern  riv 
ers.  Its  object  was  to  control  the  river  navigation,  and  defend  Nash 
ville  and  central  Tennessee. 

The  water  batteries,  the  most  important,  as  commanding  the  river, 
were  two,  an  upper  and  lower,  excavated  in  the  hill  sides.  They  were 
very  formidable,  the  lower  especially,  in  which  were  eight  32-pound- 
ers,  and  one  10-inch  columbiad,  throwing  a  120-pound  ball.  It  was 
protected  against  an  enfilading  fire  by  strong  traverses  left  between 
the  guns.  "Elevated  thirty  feet  above  the  water,  it  gave  a  fine  com- 


112  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

mand  of  the  river,  and  rendered  an  attack  in  front  extremely  arduous. 
The  main  fort,  occupying  many  acres,  was  in  the  rear  of  these  bat 
teries,  on  a  high  hill  cloven  by  a  deep  gorge  toward  the  south.  The 
outworks  were  rifle-pits,  extending  in  a  semicircular  form  from  the 
river  bank  about  a  mile  below,  to  the  bank  about  a  mile  above  the 
fort,  embracing  within  its  upper  limits  the  town  of  Dover — in  all,  an 


FORT  DONELSON. 

The  view  was  taken  on  the  day  after  its  occupation  by  the  union  troops.  The  interior  of  the  fort  is 
like  a  town  with  its  multitude  of  log  houses;  in  the  foreground  are  officers'  quarters,  and  ou  the  extreme 
right  Cumberland  river. 

immense  area.  "It  took  me,"  writes  one,  "three  hours  to  go  around, 
my  horse  walking  fast."  Along  the  front  of  this  extensive  line,  the 
trees  had  been  felled,  and  the  brush  cut  and  bent  over  breast  high, 
making  a  wide  abatis  very  difficult  to  pass  through.  The  line  of  rifle- 
pits  ran  along  an  abrupt  ridge  of  seventy -five  or  eighty  feet,  which 
was,  in  places,  cut  through  by  ravines  making  for  the  river.  Hund 
reds  of  large,  comfortable  log-cabins,  about  30  feet  square,  were  within 
the  area,  with  plenty  of  windows,  chinked  and  daubed,  presenting  the 
appearance  of  a  populous  frontier  village.  They  were  built  with  im 
mense  labor,  without  any  expectation  of  a  forcible  ejectment  by  their 
sanguine  architects.  The  nature  of  the  ground  was  broken  and  irreg 
ular,  inside  and  outside  of  the  rifle-pits,  made  up  of  steep  and  lofty 
hills  and  ravines,  with  scarcely  a  level  spot  large  as  a  parlor-floor  in 
the  whole  of  it.  Within  the  works,  the  woods  had  been  generally 
cleared,  and  for  a  small  space  outside  of  it.  Its  topography  was 
unknown  to  the  union  commanders. 

The  Battle.— On  Wednesday,  the  12th  of  February,  Gen.  Grant  left 
Fort  Henry  with  about  15,000  men,  in  two  divisions,  under  Gens.  Mc- 
Clernand  and  Smith,  for  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Donelson,  where  they  ar 
rived  at  noon  ;  the  distance  across  between  the  two  rivers  being  twelve 
miles.  He  had  sent  six  regiments  under  the  convoy  of  one  of  the  gun 
boats  around  by  water.  As  these  last  had  not  arrived,  the  remainder 
of  the  day  and  all  of  the  next  was  passed  in  skirmishing,  in  which  the 
gun -boat  Carondolet,  under  the  direction  of  Gen.  Grant,  took  part, 
and  was  repulsed  after  two  hours'  cannonading. 

The  investment,  when  completed,  was  made  by  Gen.  McClernand's 
division,  forming  the  upper  part  of  the  extended  line,  his  right  rest 
ing  on  Dover;  that  of  Gen.  Smith  formed  the  lower  part  with  a  sub- 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

division  under  Gen.  Lew.  Wallace  in  the  center.  By  Friday  mornin^ 
the  reinforcements  and  fleet  of  gun -boats  had  arrived  with  the  trans^ 
ports,  from  both  Cairo  and  Fort  Henry,  adding  about  10,000  fresh 
troops.  That  afternoon — the  14th — the  gun-boats  under  Foote  gal 
lantly  attacked  the  water  batteries,  and  after  a  spirited  battle  of  an 
hour  and  a  half  were  repulsed.  Upon  this,  Gen.  Grant  determined  to 
strengthen  his  position  and  await  the  repair  of  the  gun-boats ;  but  the 
enemy  did  not  allow  this  procrastination,  for  on  the  next  (Saturday) 
morning,  the  16th,  soon  after  daybreak,  they  advanced  under  cover  of 
a  deadly  fire  of  artillery,  and  hurled  themselves  in  an  immense  body 
against  the  extreme  right,  on  McClernand's  forces,  striking  first  against 
the  8th  and  41st  Illinois,  who  received  the  shock  with  coolness,  but 
eventually  had  to  give  way  before  superior  numbers,  who  then  suc 
ceeded  in  capturing  two  batteries.  The  18th,  29th,  30th,  and  31st  Ill 
inois  coming  to  their  aid,  with  desperate  valor  retook  all  but  three 
of  the  captured  guns.  Getting  out  of  ammunition,  they,  too,  were, 
like  their  comrades,  compelled  to  fall  back ;  when  the  enemy,  with 
loud  cheers,  pressing  on  outflanked  their  right.  Col.  Cruft  with  the 
17th  and  25th  Kentucky,  and  31st  and  44th  Indiana  came  to  their  aid; 
when  the  25th  Kentucky,  by  a  sad  mistake,  poured  a  slaughtering  vol 
ley  into  the  31st  Illinois,  causing  a  terrible  loss,  and  increasing  the 
confusion,  and  inspiriting  the  enemy  to  press  on  with  redoubled  vigor. 

Gen.  W.  H.  L.  Wallace,  a  little  later,  came  up  with  the  llth,  20th, 
45th,  and  48th  Illinois,  but  was  compelled  to  fall  back,  so  completely 
had  the  enemy  massed  their  forces.  The  enemy  had  accomplished  aH 
this,  not  by  superior  fighting  qualities  in  the  men,  but  by  concentrat 
ing  a  superior  force  upon  a  single  point  and  overwhelming  McCler 
nand's  brave  Illinoisans  in  detail;  no  troops  could  have  long  with 
stood  the  shock. 

These  operations  had  occupied  all  the  earlier  part  of  the  day. 
Things  looked  gloomy  here,  the  union  troops  had  been  driven  from 
their  position  with  the  loss  of  6  pieces  of  artillery;  4  colonels  had 
been  severely  wounded ;  3  lieut.-colonels  killed  and  several  more 
wounded;  a  great  number  of  company  officers  killed  and  wounded, 
and  several  regiments  almost  annihilated. 

At  this  juncture,  Gen.  Lewis  Wallace  thrust  his  3d  brigade  in  front  ot 
some  retiring  regiments,  retreating  in  excellent  order,  and  only  retreat 
ing  from  exhaustion  of  their  ammunition.  These  formed  in  his  rear  and 
replenished  their  cartridge-boxes.  The  new  front  thus  formed,  con 
sisted  ot  a  Chicago  artillery  company  under  Lieut.  P.  P.  Wood,  the  1st 
Nebraska,  58th  Illinois,  58th  Ohio,  and  Davidson's  company  of  the  32d 
Illinois.  In  their  rear,  within  supporting  distance,  were  the  76th 
Ohio,  46th,  and  57th  Illinois.  "Scarcely  had  this  formation  been 
made,"  reports  General  Lewis  Wallace,  when  some  regiments  of  the 
enemy,  "  attacked,  coming  up  the  road  and  through  the  shrubs  and 
trees,  on  both  sides  of  it,  and  making  the  battery  and  the  1st  Nebraska 
the  principal  points  of  attack.  They  met  this  storm,  no  man  flinch 
ing,  and  their  fire  was  terrible.  To  say  they  did  well  is  not  enough ; 
their  conduct  was  splendid.  They,  alone,  repelled  the  charge."  The 
body  of  the  enemy  then  fled  pell-mell  and  in  confusion. 

The  enemy  still  held  their  gained  position  on  our  right  whence 
they  had  driven  McClernand's  "main  body.  Gen.  Grant  hastened  to 
8 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

meet  the  emergency  by  ordering  Gen.  Smith  to  assault  the  enemy's 
works  on  our  left,  and  carry  them  at  all  hazards,  while  preparations 
were  made  on  the  right  to  gain  the  ground  lost  in  the  morning 
Cooke's  brigade, .comprising  the  7th,  50th,  and  52d  Illinois,  the  12th 
Iowa,  and  13th  Missouri,  were  ordered  against  one  portion  of  the  ene 
my's  lines  and  Lauman's  brigade,  comprising  the  2d,  7th,  and  14th 
Iowa,  and  25th  Indiana  were  led  by  Gen.  C.  F.  Smith  in  person  against 
another  part  of  the  works. 

The  2d  Iowa,  followed  by  the  other  regiments  of  the  brigade,  led 
the  advance  of  the  column  of  attack,  without  firing  a  gun  —  the  skir 
mishers  only  doing  that ;  and  charged  into  the  works,  carrying  the 
position,  at  an  immense  loss,  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet.  The  colors 
of  the  2d  Iowa  occupied  the  post  of  honor,  the  result  of  the  desperate 
struggle,  inspiring  the  wildest  enthusiasm. 

Against  the  extreme  right,  Col.  Smith  shortly  after  moved  the  8th 
Missouri,  and  llth  Indiana,  supported  by  the  31st  and  44th  Indiana, 
under  Col.  Cruft.  Skirmishers  led  in  the  advance :  the  enemy  ob 
stinately  contested  the  ground ;  assailant  and  assailed,  in  several  in 
stances,  sought  cover  behind  the  same  tree.  Up  a  lofty  hill  with  out 
cropping  rock  and  dense  underbrush,  they  drove  them  step  by  step. 
The  woods  cracked  with  musketry.  The  8th  and  llth  finally  cleared 
the  hill,  driving  the  rebel  regiments  before  them  for  nearly  a  mile,  into 
their  intrenchments.  It  was  now  nearly  sunset.  The  battle  of  Fort 
Donelson  had  been  fought.  The  next  morning  the  enemy  surrendered, 
to  the  number  of  about  10,000,  with  Gen.  Buckner  at  their  head.  In 
the  preceding  night,  Generals  Pillow  and  Floyd,  with  some  2,000  men, 
had  escaped  across  the  river  in  steamboats. 

The  rebel  garrison  consisted  of  30  complete  regiments  of  infantry ; 
of  which  13  were  from  Tennessee ;  9  from  Mississippi,  4  from  Virginia, 
2  from  Kentucky,  1  from  Arkansas,  and  1  from  Texas.  Besides,  there 
were  2  or  3  battalions  from  Alabama  and  elsewhere ;  2  battalions  of 
cavalry,  and  8  batteries  of  light  artillery:  in  all.  as  reported  by  Gen. 
Pillow,  about  12,000  men.  They  were  commanded  by  Gen.  Floyd, 
with  Generals  Pillow,  Buckner  and  Johnson,  under  him.  The  union 
loss  was  1,517 ;  viz.,  killed,  321 ;  wounded,  1,046,  and  missing,  150. 
The  rebel  killed  and  wounded  was  unknown. 

Details  and  Incidents. — In  the  gun -boat  attack  on  Thursday,  the 
same  order  was  observed  as  in  that  upon  Fort  Henry — the  boats 
forming  two  lines.  The  plunging  shot  of  the  enemy  were  too  much 
for  them.  The  contest  was  maintained  for  an  hour  and  a  half  with 
great  spirit,  when  the  St.  Louis  became  unmanagable,  and  others  so 
much  shattered  that  the  commodore  ordered  the  squadron  to  drop 
away.  He  was  in  the  pilot-house  during  the  action  giving  his  orders. 
One  ball  entered  it,  killed  the  pilot,  and  badly  wounded  the  Commo 
dore.  When  he  saw  that  he  was  compelled  to  retreat,  it  is  said,  the 
old  veteran  wept. 

A  big  bush-fight  has  been  applied  as  describing  this  battle.  It  was 
fought  like  most  of  the  battles  in  this  war,  for  the  most  part  in  the  for 
est,  with  a  thick  undergrowth  beneath,  and  regiments  acted,  gener 
ally,  on  the  principle  of  hitting  a  head  wherever  they  could  see  it. 

The  nights  were  passed  without  tents  in  the  open  air,  and  their  near 
ness  to  the  enemy  rendered  the  building  of  fires  dangerous.  The  sol- 


IN  KENTUCKY.  -.-.  c 

diers  suffered  greatly  from  the  cold;  on  Friday  night,  a  sleety  rain 
turned  to  snow,  and  their  wet  clothing  grew  stiff  with  ice.  By  morn 
ing,  two  inches  of  snow  covered  the  ground. 

The  wounded,  in  many  instances,  were  not  found  under  several 
days,  for  the  line  of  battle  extended  several  miles,  over  rough,  uneven 
ground,  rugged  cliffs,  high  hills,  deep  valleys,  thick  underbrush,  and 
some  swamps,  which  made  the  labor  of  hunting  up  and  bringing  tlitm 
in  exceedingly  tedious.  Many  died  from  want  of  prompt  assistance 
The  wounded  became  stiff  writh  cold,  and  covered  with  sleet  arid  snow 
Part  of  the  time  the  thermometer  had  been  only  ten  degrees  above 
zero.  It  is  doubtful  if  suffering  was  greater,  although  it  was  longer, 
in  the  retreat  of  the  French  from  Moscow". 

Eye  witnesses  give  us  many  details. 

One  says:  "The  snow  was  so  thoroughly  saturated  with  blood,  that  it  seemed 
like  red  mud  as  you  walked  around  in  it.  Men  writhing  in  agony,  with  their  feet, 
arms,  or  legs  torn  off,  many  begging  to  be  killed,  and  one  poor  fellow  I  saw  deliri 
ous,  who  laughed  hideously  as  he  pointed  to  a  mutilated  stump,  which  had,  an 
hour  ago,  been  his  arm.  One  old  man,  dresstd  in  homespun,  with  hair  white  as 
snow, was  sitting,  moaning  feebly,  against  a  wall.  A  fragment  of  shell  had  struck 
him  upon  the  head,  bursting  off  his  scalp,  as  if  detached  from  the  skull  by  a  knife, 
and  causing  it  to  hang  suspended,  from  the  forehead,  over  his  face."  And 
another  writes: — A  dark-haired  young  man,  of  apparently  twenty-two  or  three, 
1  found  leaning  against  a  tree,  his  breast  pierced  by  a  bayonet.  He  said  he 
lived  in  Alabama;  that  he  had  joined  the  rebels  in  opposition  to  his  parents' 
wishes;  that  his  mother,  when  she  had  found  he  would  go  into  the  army,  had 
given  him  her  blessing,  a  Bible,  and  a  lock  of  her  hair. 

The  bible  lay  half  opened  upon  the  ground,  and  the  hair,  a  dark  lock  tinged 
with  gray,  that  had  been  between  the  leaves,  was  in  his  hand. 

Tears  were  in  his  eyes,  as  he  thought  of  the  anxious  mother,  pausing,  perhaps, 
amid  her  prayers,  to  listen  for  the  long-expected  footsteps  of  her  son,  who  would 
never  more  return. 

In  the  lock  of  hair,  even  more  than  in  the  sacred  volume,  religion  was  re 
vealed  to  the  dying  young  man ;  and  1  saw  him  lift  the  tress,  again  and  again,  to 
his  lips,  as  his  eyes  looked  dimly  across  the  misty  sea  that  bounds  the  shores  of 
life  and  death;  as  if  he  saw  his  mother  reaching  out  to  him  with  the  arms  that 
had  nursed  him  in  his  infancy,  to  die,  alas!  fighting  against  his  country  and  her 
counsels  whose  memory  lived  latest  in  his  departing  soul. 

The  letters  found  on  their  dead  soldiers  turn  our  ideas  into  another  channel.  They  are 
from  fathers,  sisters,  and  wives  —  mostly  from  the  latter.  The  wife  writes  about  home; 
she  sends  cakes,  pies,  and  clothing;  almost  everyone  so  many  twists  of  tobacco ;  one 
sends  apples  —  the  largest  one  is  from  the  wife,  the  r,ext  in  size  from  the  oldest  child,  and 
so  on  to  the  youngest  one.  Some  tell  how  the  wmk  goes  on  ;  that  Jo  and  Tom  (slaves) 
are  drawing  rails,  or  grubbing,  but  it  has  rained  so  much  they  could  do  little.  They  have 
got  so  many  pounds  of  sugar  from  Memphis,  or  they  are  using  rye  instead  of  coS'ee,  and 
thdy  like  it  just  as  well.  One  wants  shoes  for  Andy,  and  she  sends  the  measure.  1  have 
it  before  me  now.  Alas,  for  Andy's  shoes  ;  and  the  pair  he  sent  her  fit  her,  and  she  thanks 
him  for  them.  One  wants  her  husband  to  take  cnie  of  his  health,  and  to  keep  himself 
well-supplied  with  good,  warm  socks.  They  relate  the  news  of  neighborhoods,  and  there 
are  some  scandalous  stories.  Such  writers,  I  dare  s«y,  lead  laughing  lives.  They  seldom 
speak  of  the  war  or  its  cause;  they  seem  wholly  taken  up  with  domestic  cares.  Several 
mention  danger  in  connection  with  Cumberland  Gap,  arid  that  troops  are  hurried  thither. 
A  father  writing  to  his  son  speaks  of  the  union  mtn  as  ''cowardly  scamps."  Every  wife 
shows  that  she  loves  her  husband;  she  prays  for  him  ;  hut  all  fear,  all  are  in  distress,  and 
lie  awake  nights  thinking  of  them.  A  fear  of  something  dreadful,  as  likely  to  happen, 
runs  through  all  their  letters,  whether  written  by  men  or  women.  They  are  plainly  writ 
ten ;  the  spelling  is  not  often  good,  but  there  is  no  mistaking  the  fact  that  they  are 
warm  with  affection  —  that  they  have  human  feelings. 

"  Show  that  you  have  human  feelings 
'  Ere  you  proudly  question  ours," 

exclaims  the  African  captive.     They  have  shown  it. 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

These  letters  are  addressed  to  those  now  dead.  Ten  thousand  other  men,  to  whom  simi 
lar  letters  have  been  addressed,  are  carried  away  captive.  It  may  be  long  before  their 
families  will  learn  whether  those  they  love  so  well  are  prisoners  in  a  cold,  northern  clime, 
or  whether  they  lie  in  the  cold,  undistinguished  grave.  Many  will  die  before  peace  re 
turns.  What  agonizing  hearts,  what  hopes  long-delayed,  will  be  found  through  the  length 
and  breadth  of  Middle  Tennessee!  0  Heavens!  these  are  they  who  have  separated  fami 
lies  without  a  sigh  —  who  have  sold  children,  some  of  them  of  their  own  blood,  to  go  to  the 
plains  of  Texas,  fathers  to  the  rice  swamps  of  the  Carolinas,  and  mothers  to  the  cotton 
fields  of  Mississippi  and  Alabama. 

The  surrender  was  unexpected  to  our  army,  who  were  prepared,  on 
Sunday  morning,  to  storm  the  works  along  the  whole  line,  and  carry 
them  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  though  with  the  prospect  of  a  heavy 


A  Cincinnati  colonel,  a  room-mate  of  Jefferson  Davis,  at  "West  Point, 
gives  some  items. 

Sunday  morning,  we  were  ordered  to  advance  in  the  trenches  of  the  enemy.  I 
well  understood  the  danger  of  the  position.  The  men  fell  into  ranks  with  cheer 
fulness.  We  marched  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  took  position  behind  the  embank 
ments  of  the  enemy.  The  rebels  had  retreated  a  short  distance,  along  the  ridge, 
to  another  position.  While  thus  standing,  a  messenger  came  with  a  request  not 
to  fire,  as  they  were  about  to  surrender.  To  test  their  truth,  I  sent  the  color  com 
pany,  Capt.  B.  Wright,  with  the  stars  and  the  eagle  (our  two  standards,)  forward. 
They  were  allowed  to  proceed,  and  then  our  banners  announced  to  all  in  sight 
that  the  contest  was  over.  The  enemy  had  surrendered,  and  I  thanked  God  with 
deep  emotion  that  we  had  thus  been  spared.  Soon  the  regiments  began  to  pour 
up  the  hill  from  every  ravine,  and,  when  we  entered,  we  found  large  bodies  of 
dimply  clad  and  ununiformed  men,  with  stacked  arms,  in  surrender.  From  the 
entire  line,  to  the  portion  overlooked  by  the  river,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  and 
as  the  regiments  were  in  sight  of  the  river,  with  the  gun-boats  and  the  many 
steamers,  cheer  after  cheer  rose  from  the  men  in  ranks  who  stood  around. 

While  standing  there  a  new  cry  was  heard  —  a  carrier  came  along  crying, 
•' Cincinnati  Commercial,  Gazette,  and  Times"  and,  as  I  sat  upon  my  horse,  I 
bought  them  and  read  the  news  from  home,  and  this,  too,  within  an  hour  after  the 
fort  had  surrendered. 

The  enemy  soon  vacated  their  quarters,  and  our  weary  troops,  after  four  days' 
hard  work,  were  allowed  the  shelter  of  the  huts  our  enemies  occupied,  and  had 
shelter,  fire,  and  food.  Many  of  the  prisoners,  as  I  rode  among  them,  appeared 
glad  to  have  the  matter  ended ;  but  seemed  to  think  they  ought  to  be  allowed  to 
go  home  forthwith.  Officers  seemed  to  think  they  should  be  allowed  side  arms, 
horses,  servants ;  at  any  rate,  we  ought  to  allow  servants  to  go  home. 

Many  of  our  officers  —  another  writes  —  have  discovered  in  the  secession 
captives  old  friends  and  school  companions  in  years  gone  by.  A  federal  lieuten 
ant  has  found  his  brother  in  the  captain  of  a  Tennessee  company,  who  has  re 
sided  in  Nashville  for  many  years,  and  married  a  Mississippi  widow.  Truly  is 
this,  in  more  than  one  sense,  a  fraternal  strife. 

Gen.  Ulysses  S.  Grant,  the  commander  of  the  union  forces,  was  forty  years  old 
at  this  time.  He  was  born  in  Clermont  county,  Ohio,  educated  at  West  Point, 
served  in  the  Mexican  war,  and  was  three  times  breveted  there  for  gallant  conduct. 
In  1854  he  entered  civil  life.  He  went  into  the  volunteer  service  from  Illinois. 
When  Buckner  opened  a  correspondence,  prior  to  the  surrender  of  Donelson,  he 
proposed  an  armistice  of  six  hours,  to  give  time  to  agree  upon  terms  for  capitula 
tion.  Grant  refused  any  other  "  than  an  unconditional  and  immediate  surrender;" 
ending  his  laconic  note  with  the  words — "  /  propose  to  move  immediately  upon 
your  works."  This  terse  sentence,  so  crisp,  sharp  and  resolute,  was  telegraphed 
through  the  land  with  unbounded  approval,  and  at  once  took  its  place  in  history, 
as  one  of  those  few  immortal  lines  that  will  never  die. 

Gen.  Charles  F.  Smith  gained  great  eclat  by  the  splendid  manner  in  which  he 
Jed  the  storming  party  into  the  works  of  the  enemy.  Apparently  indifferent  to  the 
storm  of  bullets  which  rained  about  him,  he  went  ahead  of  his  troops  on  horse- 


IN  KENTUCYY. 

back,  and  bareheaded,  with  his  hat  raised  above  him  on  the  point  of  his  sword. 
Such  a  fearless  example,  inspired  his  men  with  an  irresistible  energy,  before 
which  the  enemy  fled  appalled.  Gen.  Smith  was  an  old  army  officer  who  had 
seen  much  service.  He  was  the  son  of  an  eminent  physician  of  Pennsylvania, 
and  graduated  at  West  Point  in  1825.  While  in  command  of  the  union  troops 
at  Paducah,  like  most  prominent  officers  of  the  time,  he  fell  under  the  ban  of 
anonymous  newspaper  correspondents,  who  even  accused  him  of  sympathizing 
with  the  rebellion.  He  died  shortly  after  the  fall  of  Donelson. 

The  rejoicings  over  the  fall  of  Donelson  were  unprecedented.  It 
seemed,  to  "use  the  then  coined  phrase,  as  if  "the  hack  hone  of  the  re 
bellion  "  had  heen  broken.  A  Cincinnati  paper  but  expresses  herein 
the  prevailing  sentiment  of  the  country  at  that  time. 

The  news  which  we  publish  to-day  will  cause  every  loyal  heart  in  the  nation  to  thrill 
with  joy.  That  the  rebellion  has  been  broken,  and  that  it  must  now  rapidly  run  out,  13 
not  to  be  doubted  for  a  moment.  The  loss  of  Bowling  Green,  Fort  Donelson  and  Fort 
Henry,  destroys  the  last  vettiye  of  strength  that  the  rebels  had  in  guarding  the  seceded 
states  against  a  powerful  invading  army  that  will  be  sufficient  to  sweep  to  the  Gulf,  carry 
ing  before  it,  as  a  roaring  hurricane,  every  obstacle  that  may  impede  its  path.  At  fort 
Donehon  loas  fought  the  decisive  battle  of  the  war.  The  blood  shed  there,  and  the  victory, 
so  nobly  and  so  gloriously  won,  sealed  the  fate  of  the  rebellion,  and  virtually  re-cemented 
the  apparently  parted  fragments  of  the  union. 

Hurras  resounded  through  the  streets  of  the  cities,  as  the  tidings  of 
the  great  victory  were  flashed  over  the  wires. 

People  collected  in  joyous  knots,  half  strangers,  shook  hands,  and  a  general 
ebullition  of  good  feeling  went  all  around.  Among  the  funny  incidents  that  oc 
curred,  was  one  in  the  rear  of  a  store  where  an  old  merchant  was  reading  to  a 
friend  beside  him,  an  extra,  with  the  glad  tidings: 

"  Fort  Donelson  surrendered—  Generals  Floyd,  Pillow,  Buckner  and  Johnson, 
and  15,000 pris on ers  taken  ! !" — In  bounded  an  excited  individual,  with  hat  in 
hand,  which  he  at  first  sight  shied  at  the  head  of  his  friend.  The  hat  missed 
the  head  and  broke  the  window.  "Oh,  excuse  me,"  he  cried,  "I'll  get  an 
other  pane  put  in  right  off"  The  old  merchant  jumped  from  his  chair,  yelled — 
"never  mind,  never  mind !  Break  another — break  'email!"  And  then  they  all 
shook  hands  around,  and  crowed  over  the  great  news. 

The  rebel  lamentations  upon  this  event  were  bitter.  They  consoled 
themselves  with  the  statement,  that  they  fought  with  desperate  valor 
against  tremendous  odds. 

Day  after  day  —  said  the  Richmond  Dispatch  —  the  multitudinous  hosts  of  invaders, 
were  driven  back  past  their  own  camps,  until  our  glorious  Spartan  band,  from  sheer  ex 
haustion,  became  crushed  by  a  new  avalanche  of  reinforcements,  and  suffer  one  of  those 
misfortunes  which  are  common  to  war. 

If  these  bloody  barbarians,  whose  hands  are  now  soaked  to  the  elbows  in  the  life  blood 
of  men  defending  their  own  homes  and  firesides,  dream  that  they  are  now  one  inch  nearer 
the  subjugation  of  the  South  than  when  they  started  on  their  infernal  mission,  they  prove 
themselves  to  be  fools  and  madmen,  as  well  as  savages  and  murderers. 

They  have  placed  between  them  and  us  a  gulf  that  can  never  be  crossed  by  their  arts 
or  arms,  and  a  universal  determination  to  die,  if  die  we  must,  for  our  country,  but  never 
permit  her  to  be  subjugated  by  the  most  malignant,  the  most  murderous,  the  meanest  of 
mankind,  whose  name  is,  at  this  very  moment,  such  a  by-word  of  scorn  and  reproach 
throughout  Europe,  for  their  combined  cruelty  and  cowardice,  that  their  own  ambassadors 
can  not  stand  the  scorn  of  the  world's  contempt,  and  are  all  anxious  to  fly  back  to  the 
United  States 

EVACUATION    OF    BOWLING    GREEN   AND    COLUMBUS. 

Bowling  Green  and  Columbus,  like  many  points  in  this  war,  for 
awhile  were  prominent  centers  of  attraction,  under  the  expectation 
of  their  becoming  the  scenes  of  decisive  events.  They  will  be  barely 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

noticed  in  history,  while  many  others,  then  unknown,  have  become 
invested  with  a  permanent  interest. 

On  the  17th  of  September,  1861,  Gen.  Buckner  seized  Bowlinggrcen 
with  his  rebel  forces,  and  threatened  to  be  in  Louisville  within  a  week, 
and  to  make  his  winter  quarters  in  Cincinnati.  The  rebels  remained 
five  months,  having  at  times  a  large  force.  Gen.  Algernon  Sidney 
Johnson  was  placed  in  supreme  command.  It  was  regarded  as  the 
Western  Manassas,  having  been  strongly  fortified.  After  the  fall  of 
Fort  Henry,  they  saw  it  was  in  immediate  danger  of  becoming  unten 
able,  and  they  prepared  to  evacuate.  Gen.  Buell,  with  his  army  on 
the  north  of  Green  River,  at  the  same  time  made  ready  to  march  upon 


PUBLIC  SQUARE    BOWLING    GREEK, 

Showing  the  portion  of  the  town  burnt  by  the  rebels. 

it.  On  the  14th  of  February,  the  last  train  of  cars  were  just  getting 
under  way,  when  Gen.  Mitchell,  escorted  by  Kennett's  cavalry,  head 
ing  the  advance  division  of  Buell's  army,  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the 
Big  Barren,  opposite  the  town,  and  hurried  their  departure  by  a  few 
rounds  from  Loomis'  battery.  They  had  made  a  narrow  escape, 
through  the  unexpected  early  arrival  of  the  dashing  Mitchell.  They 
Set  fire  to  the  railroad  depot,  and  to  other  buildings,  containing  a  large 
amount  of  army  stores,  and  moved  off  by  these  huge  bonfires  of  their 
own  kindling.  "When  our  forces  reached  the  town  it  was  a  scene  of 
desolation.  Nearly  all  the  inhabitants  had  disappeared ;  the  seces 
sionists  from  fear  of  the  union  army,  the  union  people  from  the  un 
pleasant  exhibition  of  energy  Capt.  Loomis  had  given  in  throwing  his 
shells  among  them.  Many  marks  remained  of  rebel  occupation :  among 
these  were  the  graves  of  nearly  1500  of  these  deluded  people.  From 
nere,  Mitchell  immediately  moved  on  to  Nashville — the  rebels  still  in 
flight.  The  evacuation  of  Columbus,  on  the  Mississippi,  which  took 
place  about  two  weeks  later,  cleared  Kentucky  of  rebel  troops,  until 
the  period  of  the  guerrilla  raids,  under  Morgan,  in  the  ensuing  summer 

The  last  of  summer  and  early  autumn  of  1862  were  exciting  times 
in  Kentucky.  Morgan,  the  guerrilla,  was  active  and  dashing.  He  re 
ported  that,  in  24  days  he  had  traveled  1,000  miles,  captured  17  towns, 
destroyed  large  amounts  of  government  stores,  dispersed  1,500  home 
guards,  and  paroled  nearly  1,000  regular  troops,  and  lost  but  90  men. 

The  great  event  of  the  season  was  the  invasion  of  the  state  by  Gen 
erals  Bragg  and  Kirby  Smith.  After  the  battle  of  Shiloh,  the  main 
rebel  army  under  Bragg  occupied  the  region  about  Chattanooga,  and 
heavy  rebel  forces  under  Kirby  Smith  the  country  further  north,  in  the 


IN  KENTUCKY. 


119 


vicinity  of  Knoxville.  Gen.  Buell  with  the  union  army  was  in  camp  fur 
ther  west,  on,  and  near  the  north  line  of,  Alabama.  About  midsummer, 
rumors  of  a  rebel  invasion  of  the  state  were  rife;  boasts  of  the  cap 
ture  of  Louisville  and  Cincinnati  were  common  among  the  rebel  sym 
pathizers.  Suddenly  Bragg  and  Smith  started  on  their  march  north 
ward.  Buell  also  broke  up  camp,  and  the  two  armies  entered  on  their 
long  race  across  two  states  for  the  Ohio. 

Battle  of  Richmond. —  Toward  the  last  of  August,  Kirby  Smith  first 
entered  the  state,  and  on  the  southeast,  and  with  about  15,000 
men  —  veteran  soldiers.  General  Manson,  ignorant  of  the  superi 
ority  of  the  enemy,  with  only  about  7,000  troops,  undertook  to 
give  them  battle.  His  men  were  new  levies  and  undisciplined.  Early 
on  Friday,  August  29,  news  came  to  Richmond  that  Colonel  Metcalfe's 
Kentucky  cavalry  had  fallen  back  from  Big  Hill,  before  a  superior 
force.  In  the  afternoon,  General  Manson  advanced  and  skirmished. 
The  rebels  showed  only  a  small  part  of  their  force ;  and,  as  a  ruse, 
allowed  the  union  troops  to  capture  a  piece  of  artillery. 

Saturday's  sun  rose  clear  and  bright:  as  the  day  wore  on,  the  heat 
became  intense,  the  thermometer,  at  noon,  standing  at  95  degrees  in 
the  shade.  At  6  o'clock,  General  Manson  formed  his  troops,  mostly 
from  Indiana,  in  line  of  battle  half  a  mile  beyond  Rogersville.  This 
is  a  hamlet  on  the  Lexington  turnpike,  four  miles  south  of  Richmond. 

The  rebels  formed  theirs  in  an  arc  of  a  circle  with  a  flanking  regi 
ment  at  each  end,  so  as  to  bring  our  men  between  a  cross  fire,  which 
no  troops  could  stand.  The  details  are  given  by  an  eye  witness : 

General  Manson,  unable  to  resist,  sent  to  General  Cruft  for  reinforcements. 
The  66th  Indiana,  18th  Kentucky,  and  95th  Ohio  were  ordered  out,  together  with 
six  field  pieces  belonging  to  Andrews'  Michigan  battery.  The  men  were  all  ea 
ger  for  battle,  and  only  grumbled  for  not  being  called  out  sooner. 

ft  was  now  eight  o'clock.  The  cannon  roared  with  terrific  fierceness  and  ra 
pidity,  on  both  sides,  and  the  contest  seemed  hard  to  determine.  We  had  two 
guns  — the  enemy  eleven.  Neither  line  wavered  a  particle,  or  evinced  any  signs 
either  of  victory  or  defeat.  The  most  experienced  of  military  men  could  not  tell 
how  the  battle  was  going  up  to  nine  o'clock.  It  was  not  until  a  few  deadly  vol 
leys  of  musketry  were  exchanged,  that  the  experience  and  discipline  of  the  rebel 
troops  began  to  turn  the  fortunes  of  the  day  in  their  favor.  The  69th  Indiana, 
on  the  extreme  right  of  our  lines,  replied  with  effect  to  a  sharp  fire  from  the  con 
federate  infantry;  the  16th,  on  the  left,  did  the  same,  while  the  artillery  still 
roared  on  the  center  of  both  lines.  The  95th  Ohio,  on  its  arrival,  was  sent  to  the 
support  of  the  extreme  right,  which  seemed  to  waver  a  little  under  the  leaden 
hail.  Col.  McMillan  and  his  men  went  fearlessly  forward,  and  made  a  noble 
stand.  Shortly  after  this,  the  95th  Ohio  was  ordered  to  the  left  to  charge  a  bat 
tery.  And  here,  let  me  ask,  when,  in  the  history  of  warfare,  was  a  regiment 
called  upon  to  perform  such  a  feat  two  weeks  after  its  equipment?  But  the  un 
disciplined  Ohioans  stood  up  to  the  work,  and  bravely  rushed  where  veterans 
mio;ht  hesitate  to  go.  But  their  courage  and  determination  were  more  than 
matched  by  the  skill  and  experience  of  their  opponents,  and,  amid  one  of  the 
most  terrible  fires,  the  ranks  of  the  95th  were  broken. 

At  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  our  right  and  left  flanks,  which  had  been  very  poorly  pro 
tected,  began  to  give  way.  The  rebels  were  gradually  encroaching  upon  us  on 
both  sides,  and  we  must  either  fall  back  or  be  surrounded.  Six  thousand  raw 
troops,  after  two  hours'  fighting,  and  with  the  consciousness  of  approaching  defeat 
before  them,  to  fall  back  in  order!  The  thing  is  impossible. 

The  order  to  fall  back  was  followed  by  a  panic  and  stampede,  and  victory 
perched  itself  upon  the  rebel  banner.  Our  men  broke  in  wild  disorder,  amid  the 
loud  cheers  of  the  victors.  The  rebels  followed  our  men  into  the  fields  and  up  the 


120 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


road,  firing  upon  them  from  every  possible  point.  I  believe  they  killed  a  greatei 
number  in  one  single  cornfield  than  fell  during  the  engagement  of  three  hours  in 
the  line  of  battle. 

During  all  of  the  first  engagement  on  Saturday,  about  five  hundred  cavalry  be 
longing  to  Col.  Metcalfe's,  Col.  Jacobs',  and  Col.  Mundy's  regiments,  stood,  drawn 
up  in  line,  about  half  a  mile  in  the  rear  of  Roijersville,  and  one  mile  from  the 
battle-ground,  and  rendered  very  efficient  service  in  collecting  the  scattering 
ranks.  The  sight  had  become  sorrowful.  Many  officers  implored  their  men,  and 
with  tears  in  their  eyes,  to  rally,  crying  out,  "  For  God's  sake,  men!  don't  run  off 
this  way.  Rally,  men,  rally." 

Just  as  the  stampede  was  at  its  hight,  the  12th  Indiana,  which  had  been  held 
back  as  a  reserve,  came  up  the  road,  on  the  double-quick,  with  flying  colors.  The 
effect  was  admirable.  The  scene  infused  vigor  into  many  desponding  hearts,  and 
caused  hundreds  of  men  to  halt  on  their  affrighted  retreat.  The  12th  formed  the 
nucleus  around  which  the  greater  part  of  the  fleeing  army  rallied  for  a  second 
stand.  The  stars  and  stripes  never  looked  more  beautiful  than  upon  the  unsullied 
banner  of  Indiana's  sons,  as  it  waved  a  signal  for  another  great  effort  to  beat  back 
the  foes  to  liberty  and  union.  The  colors  of  the  12th  were  the  only  ones  I  could 
see  upon  the  second  battle-ground.  c 

But,  now  for  a  second  stand  of  6,000  citizens  against  18,000  soldiers. 

The  ground  selected  by  our  men  for  this  second  stand,  was  about  a  mile  from 
the  first  battle-ground.  It  was  not  the  best  position  in  the  immediate  neighbor 
hood,  but  happening  to  be  the  point  at  which  the  scattered  troops  were  rallied,  it 
was  chosen  in  preference  to  attempting  another  change  and  risking  another  stam 
pede. 

Every  field  officer  on  the  ground  used  his  best  exertions  to  encourage  the  troops, 
implored  them  to  stand,  and  not  run  away,  in  wild  disorder,  to  be  pursued  and 
shot  down.  The  effect,  for  awhile,  seemed  excellent.  The  men  stood  unflinch 
ingly  up  to  the  galling  fire  of  an  overwhelming  force. 

The  rebel  artillery  was  reinforced  for  the  second  fight,  and  it  seemed  to  be  their 
determination  to  annihilate  our  army  rather  than  to  capture  it.  With  fifteen 
pieces,  they  kept  a  continuous  fire  of  grape,  shell,  and  solid  shot  upon  our  reduced 
ranks.  Our  undrilled  Indianians  and  Ohioans  kept  their  lines  unbroken.  At  the 
expiration  of  half  an  hour,  the  firing  ceased  on  both  sides  for  nearly  ten  min 
utes —  from  what  cause  I  did  not  learn.  Then  commenced  a  musketry  fire, 
which  proved  too  much  for  our  inexperienced  men.  It  lasted  for  about  five  min 
utes,  and  ended  in  a  second  stampede.  Our  troops,  while  they  stood,  loaded  and 
fired  with  worderful  rapidity,  considering  their  late  initiation  into  an  art  which 
their  antagonists  had  been  practicing  for  a  year  and  a  half.  While  they  fired  as 
often  as  the  rebels,  1  do  not  believe  they  did  half  as  much  execution  as  was  done 
to  them.  Unused  to  taking  steady  aim  at  objects  like  those  now  before  them, 
many  of  them  became  too  much  excited  and  too  nervous  for  marksmanship,  and 
discharged  their  guns  at  an  angle  of  forty -five  degrees  —  sending  the  bullets 
harmlessly  over  the  heads  of  their  opponents.  The  rebels  took  deliberate  aim, 
fired  low,  and  with  telling  effect. 

The  second  stampede  was  commenced  and  made.  It  was  worse  than  the  first. 
The  rebels,  again  victorious,  and  frantic  with  enthusiasm  over  their  second  tri 
umph,  separated  into  squads  and  pursued  the  flying  host,  with  terrible  effect, 
yet,  Generals  Cruft  and  Manson  determined  to  make  a  third  effort  to  repel  the 
enemy. 

Consider  the  number  of  our  forces  in  the  morning,  the  fact  that  they  had  been 
jjjtuic-strioken  twice,  and  that  they  had  already  lost  upward  of  800  men  in  killed 
and  wounded,  and  it  will  be  apparent  that  the  remnant  was  not  large  enough  to 
make  a  formidable  stand. 

But  Gen  Nelson  had  arrived  from  Lexington,  and  was  determined  that  the 
day  should  not  be  lost  so  early.  He  directed  all  the  movements,  and  the  result  of 
the  engagement  showed  the  master-hand.  Under  his  management,  3,000  federal 
troops  did  more  execution  in  a  space  of  time  not  much  greater  than  is  frequently 
occupied  in  a  skirmish,  than  6,000  had  done  in  two  battles  of  several  hours'  du. 


IN  KENTUCKY.  J2] 

ration.  And  amid  all  the  danger  and  exposure,  none  was  more  exposed  than  he 
He  rode  along  the  lines,  giving  words  of  encouragement  to  his  men,  while  the 
bullets  flew  thicker  than  at  any  other  time  during  the  day,  and  he  was  a  conspio 
uous  mark  at  which  shots  were  fired.  "  Keep  it  up  men —  the  rebels  are  running 
That's  it.  Let  them  have  it.  Fire  low.  Take  good  aim.  We'll  whip  them  yet?' 
and  similar  expressions  he  used  to  make  a  victory,  already  certain,  as  dearly 
bought  as  possible  for  the  enemy.  He  frequently  said,  "  Reinforcements  will  be 
here  right  away  "  —  and,  of  course,  it  is  not  for  me  to  say  that  they  were  not  on 
the  road,  though,  I  must  say,  they  never  came.  The  rebels  had,  evidently,  re 
solved  on  finishing  the  work  this  time.  They  were  reinforced  and  fought  with 
desperation.  They  used  but  little  artillery,  relying,  principally,  upon  their  "  un 
erring  rifles.'' 

I  should  have  mentioned  before  now  that  the  ground  selected  for  the  third 
stand  was  a  slight  elevation,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  town,  and  in 
cluded  the  Richmond  cemetery,  whose  beautiful  obelisks  now  bear  many  marks 
of  the  bloody  struggle.  In  that  little  city  of  the  dead  no  less  than  seventy-five 
rebels  fell  in  half  an  hour.  They  had  sought  refuge  behind  the  marble,  the  more 
effectually  to  destroy  our  men  and  insure  their  own  safety.  Gen.  Nelson  discov 
ered  them,  and  maneuvered  his  troops  so  as  to  bring  them  under  a  cross-fire, 
which  made  terrible  havoc  among  them. 

This  was  a  hotly-contested  engagement,  though  of  short  duration,  and  one  in 
which  our  men,  though  outnumbered,  punished  the  enemy  very  severely.  Had 
all  the  fighting  of  the  day  been  proportionately  favorable  to  our  side,  the  sun 
would  not  have  set  upon  a  vanquished  federal  army.  The  union  loss  in  this 
engagement  was  estimated  at  3,000,  of  whom  2,000  were  taken  prisoners  and  im 
mediately  paroled. 

Two  days  after  Lexington  surrendered  to  Kirby  Smith,  and  on  the 
3d  of  September,  Frankfort  was  taken.  The  archives  and  public  prop 
erty  were  removed  to  Louisville,  where  the  legislature  was  convened. 
Gov.  Robinson  called  upon  every  loyal  citizen  to  rally  to  the  defense 
of  the  state.  All  the  able  bodied  citizens  of  Louisville  were  at  once 
ordered  to  enroll  themselves  for  the  defense  of  the  city.  Cincinnati, 
Covington  and  Newport  became  excited  at  the  approach  of  the  enemy. 
Gen.  Lewis  Wallace  assumed  command;  declared  martial  law  in  the 
three  cities,  and  summoned  the  citizens  for  defense.  The  advance 
guard  of  the  enemy,  on  the  7th,  came  within  five  miles  of  Cincinnati, 
and  on  the  same  week  Maysville  was  entered  by  them. 

At  this  time,  both  the  armies  of  Bragg  and  Buell  were  entering  the 
state,  the  latter  having  passed  through  Nashville  on  the  5th.  On  the 
14th  an  advance  brigade,  undre  Gen.  Chalmers,  of  the  rebel  "Army 
of  the  Mississippi,"  as  Bragg's  army  was  then  called,  reached  Mun- 
fordsville. 

Battle  of  Munfordsville. — At  this  place  were  some  of  the  works  erected  to  de 
fend  the  Louisville  and  Nashville  railroad  bridge  across  Green  River.  The 
garrison  consisted  of  2200  men,  under  Col.  John  T.  Wilder,  of  the  17th  Indiana. 
On  Sunday  morning,  the  14th,  Chalmers,  with  one  Alabama  and  four  Mississippi 
regiments,  attempted  to  carry  these  works  by  storm.  Wilder  reserved  his  fire  until 
their  first  line  came  within  about  thirty  yards,  when  he  said  in  his  official  re 
port:  "  I  directed  the  men  to  fire  and  a  very  avalanche  of  death  swept  through  the 
ranks,  causing  them  first  to  stagger,  and  then  run  in  disorder  to  the  wood  in  the 
rear,  having  left  all  their  field  officers  on  the  ground,  either  killed  or  mortally 
wounded."  The  second  line  also  came  up  in  the  same  admirable  manner.  Says 
Col.  Wilder  :  "  They  were  literally  murdered  by  our  terrible  fire.  Major  Abbot 
sprang  upon  the  parapet,  bareheaded,  with  his  hat  in  one  hand  and  his  drawn 
saber  in  the  other,  urging  his  men  to  stand  to  the  work,  until  he  was  shot  dead 
under  the  flag  he  so  nobly  defended.  A  braver  man  never  fell  The  flag  had 


122  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

146  bullet  holes  through  it."  From  this  repulse  the  enemy  never  recovered  ;  but, 
at  the  end  of  two  hours,  sent  in  a  flag  of  truce,  with  a  demand  for  an  uncon 
ditional  surrender,  to  avoid  further  bloodshed.  Wilder  thank  him  lor  his  com 
pliments,  and  told  him  if  he  wished  to  avoid  further  bloodshed  just  to  keep  out 
of  the  range  of  his  guns.  This  Chalmers  was  careful  to-  do,  for  he  had  already 
lost  nearly  1000  men  in  killed  and  wTounded. 

On  Tuesday,  Bragg,  with  his  main  army,  surrounded  the  works  and  sent  in  a 
flag  of  truce  with  a  statement  of  the  tacts,  and  requiring  a  surrender.  This  Wilder 
consented  to  do  if  Bragg  would  allow  him  to  verify  his  statements  by  personal  ob 
servation.  To  this  singular  proposition  Bragg  agreed,  and  Wilder  rode  around 
the  enemy's  line,  counting  45  cannon  in  position,  supported  by  25,000  men.  The 
next  morning  he  surrendered,  marching  out  with  the  honors  of  war. 

The  enemy  hastily  crossed  his  entire  army  here,  destroyed  the  railroad  bridge, 
placed  a  strong  rear  guard  on  the  bluffs,  to  oppose  the  crossing  of  Gen  Bnell, 
advancing  from  Bowlinggreen.  The  next  day  Buell's  cavalry  drove  off  the  rear 
guard,  and  the  army  of  Gen.  Buell  hastily  crossed,  in  rapid  but  fruitless  pursuit. 

While  Cincinnati  was  put  in  defense,  under  General  Wallace.  Louis 
ville  was  placed  in  command  of  General  Nelson,  who  had  arrived 
from  the  unfortunate  field  of  Eichmond.  He  erected  new  fortifica 
tions,  and  gave  life  and  energy  to  the  army  of  hastily  collected  raw 
troops,  numbering  some  30000  men.  He  found  that  Gen.  Bragg  was 
pushing  forward  rapidly,  and  it  seemed  as  if  a  desperate  effort  was  to 
be  made  by  Kirby  Smith  and  Bragg  to  unite  their  forces  and  take 
Louisville,  ere  Buell  could  arrive  to  oppose  them.  In  such  an  event 
he  prepared  to  evacuate  it,  cross  to  the  Indiana  shore,  and  shell  the 
city  from  that  side.  For  this  purpose  he  erected  batteries  at  Jeftergon- 
ville,  threw  pontoon  bridges  across  the  Ohio,  sent  over  government 
stores,  and  on  the  22d  of  September  issued  the  startling  order:  "  The 
women  and  children  of  this  city  will  prepare  to  leave  the  city  without  delay." 

The  excitement  which  followed  can  scarcely  be  described.  Instead 
of  only  preparing  to  leave,  multitudes  at  once  left ;  men,  women  and 
children,  carrying  their  most  precious  goods  with  them,  poured  in  an 
unbroken  stream  across  the  pontoons;  and  the  stampede,  at  one  time, 
threatened  to  become  a  panic.  Thousands  unable  to  obtain  a  shelter 
in  Jeffersonville  and  New  Albany,  were  compelled  to  live  for  several 
days  in  the  neighboring  woods  and  fields,  until  the  arrival  of  Buell's 
army. 

The  causes  of  Gen.  Bragg's  failure  to  reach  Louisville  have  thus 
been  given : 

At  Munfordsville,  on  the  16th  of  September,  Bragg  was  immediately  in  front 
of  Buell,  and  by  the  action  of  his  rear  guard  he  was  enabled  to  hold  Buell's 
cavalry  in  check  until  the  rebel  advance  was  two  days  nearer  Louisville  than 
the  union  forces.  Arriving  with  his  cavalry  at  Elizabethtown,  and  his  infantry 
at  the  point  of  convergence  of  the  roads  to  that  place  and  Hodgenville,  Bragg 
hesitated  which  to  take.  The  direct  road  to  Louisville  lay  through  Elizabethtown, 
and  crossed  Salt  River  at  its  mouth.  Bragg  argued  that  there  was  danger  if  he 
moved  by  this  short  line,  that  the  opposition  of  Nelson  to  his  crossing  at  Salt 
River,  would  enable  Buell  to  come  upon  his  rear,  when  a  battle  of  unfortunate 
issu^  would  leave  the  rebel  army  without  a  proper  line  of  retreat.  He  conse 
quently  chose  the  longest  route,  by  way  of  Bardstown,  and  moving  with  great 
haste  to  that  point,  deployed  upon  the  various  approaches  to  Louisville,  and  began 
a  svstematic  advance  from  Bardstown,  Tavlorsville  and  Shelbyville.  September 
22d.  In  the  meantime.  Buell,  reaching  the  turning  off  point  of  Bra<rg.  at  once 
cho*H  the  short  line  to  Louisville,  by  the  month  of  Salt  River  The  advance  of 
nis  weary  troops,  under  Crittenden,  reached  .the  mouth  of  Salt  River  at  dusk,  Sep- 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

ternher  24th,  when  urgent  calls  came  from  Nelson  to  push  on.  The  army  was 
put  in  motion  again,  and  by  a  forced  march  of  twenty  miles,  it  reached  the  city 
by  daylight  the  nest  morning.  The  city  was  saved  Bragg  was  foiled,  compelled 
to  retire  on  Bardstown,  and  his  great  invasion  thus  proving  a  failure,  he  was 
forced  to  assume  the  defensive,  and  soon  after  began  to  retire. 

Buell's  army  remained  in  the  city  a  few  days,  and  that  of  Nelson 
consolidated  with  it.  Nelson  was  given  the  command  of  the  center 
corps,  but  did  not  live  to  control  it  in  the  field,  for  he  was  killed  at  the 
Gait  House,  on  the  29th  instant,  by  a  pistol  shot,  fired  by  Gen.  Jeffer 
son  C.  Davis,  an  officer  under  him,  whom  he  had  brutally  insulted. 
To  an  overbearing  disposition,  Gen.  Nelson  united  many  excellent 
qualities.  His  loyalty  was  a  passion,  his  bravery  unsurpassed,  and 
woe  to  any  who  attempted  infringements  upon  the  rights  of  his  sol 
diers.  His  person  was  gigantic,  and  the  Niagara  of  oaths  with  which 
he  enforced  his  orders,  were  more  feared  than  rebel  bullets.  His  in 
fluence  was  great  in  saving  Kentucky  when  she  was  vibrating  in  the 
scale  of  loyalty.  His  great  fault  was  atoned  for  by  his  sudden  death; 
but  his  memory  will  be  held  in  honor,  for  his  eminent  services  and  in 
tense  patriotism.  In  accordance  with  his  dying  wish  his  remains  were 
placed  in  Camp  Dick  Robinson,  of  which  he  was  the  founder. 

BATTLE    OF   PERRYVILLE,    OR    CHAPLIN    HILLS. 

The  pursuit  of  Bragg  by  the  grand  army  of  Gen.  Buell  began  on  the 
1st  of  October,  when  in  heavy  imposing  columns  it  marched  out  of 
Louisville. 

At  this  time,  the  main  body  of  Bragg's  rebel  army,  composed  of 
about  40,000  men,  with  some  70  pieces  of  artillery,  was  encamped  in 
the  vicinity  of  Bardstown.  Kirby  Smith  had  15,000  men,  at  Lexington, 
Frankfort,  and  neighborhood.  At  Georgetown,  Humphrey  Marshall 
had  4000  men,  and  John  Morgan  and  Scott  had  each  a  body  of  cavalry, 
roaming  at  will  through  central  Kentucky.  The  aggregate  strength 
of  the  enemy  was  hardly  60,000,  inclusive  of  5000  cavalry  and  90  pieces 
of  artillery. 

Buell  moved  from  Louisville,  with  three  corps,  1st,  McCook's;  2d,  Crit- 
tenden's;  3d,  Gilbert's.  Beside  the  nine  divisions  of  these  three  corps,  he 
had  a  tenth — an  independent  division — that  of  Dumont.  His  entire  force 
was  nearly  80,000  strong,  including  about  7000  cavalry  and  170  pieces  of 
artillery.  The  probabilities  of  success  were  flattering.  His  forces  were 
concentrated  and  superior;  those  of  the  enemy  scattered  and  deficient 
in  artillery.  Many  of  Buell's  regiments  were,  however,  new  levies. 

Soon  after  leaving  Louisville,  slight  skirmishing  began  with  the  en 
emy.  On  Tuesday,  the  7th,  it  was  apparent  the  rebels  were  in  great 
force  about  Perryville,  a  hamlet  some  eight  miles  southwest  of  Har- 
rodsburg.  Bnell  designed  to  give  them  battle  there  the  next  day,  with 
nearly  his  entire  force.  On  Wednesday  morning,  the  8th,  Bragg  had 
three  of  his  six  divisions,  half  of  his  entire  army,  in  line  of  battle,  but 
mostly  secreted  from  view.  Buell,  not  being  quite  ready,  postponed 
his  design  of  bringing  on  a  general  engagement,  not  dreaming  the 
enemy  would  attack.  "The  latter,  however,  did  attack  ;  and  so  unfor 
tunate  was  the  management  on  the  part  of  the  union  general,  that  the 
battle  was  fought  on  our  side  by  two  divisions  of  McCook's  corps, 
Jackson's  and  Rousseau's,  and  Gooding's  brigade.  These  were  largely 


124  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

new  troops,  never  before  in  action.  Gen.  McCook  says  in  his  report: 
"Eousseau  had  present  on  the  field  7000  men ;  Jackson,  5500.  The 
brigade  of  Gooding  amounted  to  about  1500.  The  battle  was  princi 
pally  fought  by  Kousseau's  division." 

The  Battle. — The  battle  began  at  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  by  a 
fierce  onset  upon  McCook's  entire  line.  His  two  divisions  were  in  five 
brigades,  and  stationed  about  as  in  the  diagram. 

Starkweather.'  Terrill.  Harris.  .Lytle. 


Webster. 

Six  batteries  were  distributed  tit  suitable  points  along  the  line. 
Gilbert's  entire  army  corps  was  too  in  line  most  of  the  day,  to  the  right 
of  McCook's,  his  extreme  left  being  a  short  distance  only  from  Lytle's 
brigade.  Crittenden's  corps  was  farther  to  the  right,  resting  on  Gil 
bert.  The  outlines  of  the  battle  have  thus  been  drawn : 

The  left  and  left  center,  under  Starkweather  and  Terrell,  first  experienced  a 
most  desperate  assault  by  a  largely  superior  force  of  the  enemy,  manifestly  bent 
upon  carrying  this  all-important  position,  and  turning  our  line.  Gen.  Jackson 
was  with  Terrell's  brigade.  He  fell  at  the  first  fire  of  the  rebels,  and,  under  the 
tremendous  volleys  now  poured  upon  Terrell's  new  regiments,  they  gave  way  in  a 
few  moments  in  the  utmost  confusion,  and  were  driven  pell  mell  from  the  field, 
leaving  seven  guns  of  a  battery  of  eight  in  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  Thus, 
in  the  first  half-hour  of  the  battle,  one  fifth  of  the  union  force  engaged  was  vir 
tually  placed  hors  du  combat,  and  a  portion  of  its  line  broken. 

This  misfortune,  together  with  the  vigor  of  the  attack  and  great  numerical  su 
periority  of  the  enemy — the  latter,  so  uniformly  magnified  by  our  generals,  was, 
for  the  first  time,  really  almost  three  to  one — seemed  to  bode  a  speedy  termination 
of  the  struggle  disastrous  to  our  troops?  But  happily,  the  stubborn  gallantry  of 
Kousseau's  old  troops  was  equal  to  the  emergency,  and  eventually  secured  the 
day. 

The  heavy  rebel  line  that  had  fallen  upon  and  broken  and  scattered  Terrell's 
brigade,  immediately  followed  up  its  advantage  by  a  succession  of  most  deter 
mined  advances  upon  the  extreme  left  under  Starkweather.  He  had  only  three 
regiments  of  infantry,  but  two  splended  batteries,  and  with  this  small,  though 
dauntless  force,  he  repulsed  attack  after  attack  of  the  enemy,  and  maintained  his 
position  during  two  hours,  until  after  his  ammunition  was  exhausted,  when  he 
fell  back  under  orders  for  several  hundred  yards  without  losing  any  guns.  After 
refilling  their  cartridge-boxes  his  men  resumed  the  contest  with  the  enemy  that 
had  followed  them,  and  continued  it  without  yielding  another  inch  until  dark. 

Harris'  brigade,  on  the  right  center,  fought  with  equal  bravery  and  steadfast 
ness.  It  likewise  stemmed  the  onsets  of  an  outnumbering  enemy  for  several 
hours.  After  exhausting  their  supplies  of  cartridges,  the  men  secured  and  fired 
with  those  of  their  dead  and  wounded  comrades,  and  even  after  these  were  ex 
pended  they  did  not  fall  back,  but  held  their  ground  for  some  time  under  a  heavy 
fire,  to  which  they  could  not  return  a  single  shot,  until  orders  reached  them  to 
retire  to  a  position  that  brought  them  again  on  a  line  with  Starkweather,  whose 
withdrawal  had  preceded  theirs.  In  this  second  position  this  brigade  continued 
fighting  until  the  end  of  the  combat 

Lytle's  brigade,  on  the  extreme  right,  was  assailed  not  as  early  as  the  left,  but 
with  equal  violence,  by  superior  numbers.  It  resisted  successfully  several  attacks, 
and  maintained  its  ground  until  about  4  o'clock,  "  when  a  new  column  of  the  enemy," 
to  quote  from  the  report  of  Gen.  Rousseau,  "  moved  around  to  its  right,  concealed 
by  the  undulations  of  the  ground,  turned  its  right  flank  and  fell  upon  its  right  and 
rear,  and  drove  it,  and  forced  it  to  retire." 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

Gen  McCook  arrived  on  the  ground  at  this  moment,  and  forthwith  ordered  Web 
ster's  brigade  to  move  from  the  rear  of  the  center  to  the  support  of  Lytle.  Jn 
carrying  out  this  order,  Col.  Webster  was  mortally  wounded  as  soon  a*s  he  got 
under  fire.  His  new  regiment  got  into  disorder  after  his  fall,  and  proved  of 
hardly  any  avail  to  the  right 

Though  terribly  cut  up,  and  somewhat  in  confusion,  the  brigade  was  reformed, 
after  extricating  itself  from  the  enemy,  some  hundred  yards  from  its  first  position! 
It  was  hardly  once  jmore  in  line,  when  the  same  body  that  compelled  it  to  retire 
again  moved  upon  its  right.  It  was  permitted  to  approach  to  close  range,  and 
then  opened  upon  by  the  battery  and  infantry  of  the  brigade.  But,  although  fear 
ful  havoc  was  made  upon  its  ranks  by  grape,  cannisfer  and  musketry,  it  kept 
steadily  moving  on.  At  this  critical  moment,  the  long-expected  reinforcements, 
consisting  of  Gooding  s  brigade  of  Mitchells  division,  with  a  battery,  arrived  near 
Lytle's  brigade,  and  immediately  took  its  place.  The  fresh  troops  moved  to  meet 
the  advancing  enemy  without  delay,  and  after  a  short,  but  severe  struggle,  involv 
ing  a  loss  of  one  third  their  number,  drove  the  rebels  back.  This  was  just  before 
dark,  and  terminated  the  battle.  While  Gooding's  brigade  was  driving  the  enemy, 
Gen.  Steadman's  brigade  of  Gen.  Schoepf 's  division  appeared  on  the  ground,  and 
was  put  in  position  by  Gen.  McCook.  It  was,  however  too  late  to  be  of  any  ser 
vice,  firing  having  ceased  on  both  sides  before  it  was  fairly  formed. 

Gen.  McCooks's  two  divisions  had  really  fought  the  battle  of  the  day.  The  di 
visions  of  Generals  Mitchell  and  Sheridan,  of  Gilbert's  corps,  however,  also  bore 
a  part,  though  a  minor  one,  in  it. 

Simultaneously  with  the  first  attack  upon  McCook's  line,  at  2  o'clock  p.  M.,  strong 
columns  of  the  enemy  appeared  both  on  the  right  of  Mitchell,  in  front  of  Sher 
idan,  with  the  apparent  intention  to  attack.  Gen.  Mitchell  immediately  advanced 
a  line  of  skirmishers  from  Carlin's  brigade  on  his  right,  upon  which  movement 
the  enemy  at  once  fell  back  under  cover.  Gen.  Sheridan  thought  himself  so  seri 
ously  threatened  that  he  sent  a  message  to  Gen.  Mitchell,  stating  that  he  needed 
re-inforcements.  In  response,  Mitchell  ordered  Carlin's  brigade  to  advance  upon 
Sheridan's  right.  Sheridan  then  advanced  upon  the  force  in  front  of  him,  and 
after  a  slight  contest  caused  it  to  retire.  Carlin  moved  forward  at  the  same 
time,  and  with  commendable  ardor  chargejd  upon  the  enemy,  made  them  yield  in 
confusion,  and  followed  them  nearly  two  miles  to  the  very  town  of  Perryville, 
its  advance  capturing  an  ammunition  train  of  fifteen  wagons,  two  caissons,  and  3 
officers  and  138  privates.  Finding  the  enemy  was  occupying  the  town  with  a 
force  of  infantry  and  artillery  superior  to  his  own,  Carlin  fell  back  to  a  strong 
position,  on  the  west  side  of  the  town,  where  he  kept  up  an  artillery  fight  until 
dark. 

Gen.  Sheridan  was  no  more  seriously  troubled  after  the  mentioned  brief  affair 
between  2  and  3  o'clock.  Later  in  the  afternoon  he  fell  back,  in  obedience  to 
orders  from  Gen.  Gilbert,  some  distance  to  the  rear,  and  went  into  bivouac. 

The  causes  of  the  disastrous  issue  of  this  battle  were  ascribed  to 
Generals  Buell  and  Gilbert,  as  these  facts  show.  At  3  o'clock,  Capt. 
Horace  W.  Fisher,  of  McCook's  staff,  was  dispatched  by  that  officer  to 
Gen.  Gilbert  with  pressing  demands  for  assistance.  Gilbert  refused, 
but  referred  him  to  G-en.  Buell,  That  officer  was  two  miles  in  the 
rear,  and  an  hour  was  consumed  in  finding  him.  It  was  4  o'clock  when 
Fisher  reported.  And  how  did  Buell  respond  ?  He  stepped  out  of  his 
tent,  held  his  ear  toward  the  scene  of  action,  listened  for  a  few  mo 
ments,  and  then  turning  sharply  to  Captain  Fisher,  said :  "  Captain,  you 
must  be  mistaken  ;  I  can  not  hear  any  sound  of  musketry ;  there  can 
not  be  any  pressing  engagement?" 

Captain  Fisher  returned  without  any  orders  for  reinforcements. 
After  awhile,  a  change  of  wind  brought  the  sound  of  musketry  to 
Buell,  and  he  then  sent  orders  to  Gilbert,  if  McCook  really  wanted 
assistance  to  furnish  it.  Thus  it  happened  that  Gooding's  brigade 


126  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

reached  McCook  at  the  close  of  the  battle,  two  hours  after  he  had  first 
appealed  for  help  to  Gilbert.  Grievous  as  was  this  portion  of  the  bat 
tle,  it  was  not  the  worst.  The  writer  from  whom  we  have  previously 
quoted,  says: 

As  previously  stated,  Sheridan  was  not  seriously  troubled  by  the  enemy  after 
3  o'clock,  p.  M.  Both  he  and  Mitchell  were  ready  and  anxious  for  a  forward 
movement  upon  the  enemy.  There  was  further  the  whole  of  Gen.  Sehoepf's 
splendid  division  of  old,  battle-tried  troops,  lying  directly  behind  them  ail  day 
without  firing  a  shot  All  the  officers  of  the  three  divisions  chafed  under  the  in 
comprehensible  management  that  kept  them  bivouacking  within  short  cannon- 
range  of,  and  in  full  view  of,  the  unequal  struggle  on  their  left.  Gen.  Sheridan 
sent  word  to  Gen.  Gilbert  to  "beware  what  he  was  doing;  "  Gen.  Schoepf  begged 
and  entreated  permission  to  advance,  and  when  refused,  fairly  wept  in  the  bitter 
ness  of  his  disappointment.  But  all  was  of  no  avail.  The  3d  corps  remained 
idle  spectators  of  the  desnerate  straits  to  which  their  valiant,  bleeding,  partially- 
broken  comrades  under  McCook  were  becoming  gradually  reduced.  And  yet  its 
position  was  such  —  there  was  not  an  intelligent  officer  in  the  corps  that  did  not 
see  it  —  that  an  advance  of  its  line  for  less  than  a  mile  would  have  brought  it  to 
the  very  rear  of  the  enemy  that  had  fallen  upon  McCook. 

The  logic  of  all  of  the  above-mentioned  facts  allows  no  other  than  these  legiti 
mate  conclusions : 

1.  The  blame  for  the  disastrous  results  of  the  battle  is  divided  between  Gener 
als  Buell  and  Gilbert. 

2.  The  share  of  the  former  consists  in  his  failure  to  provide  for  the  contingency 
of  an  attack  by  the  enemy,  through  the  means  of  instructions  to  Generals  Gilbert 
and  McCook,  as  to  how  to  operate  in  case  of  its  occurrence,  and  first  discrediting 
instead  of  acting  promptly  upon  the  urgent  appeal  for  relief  of  General  McCook! 

3.  That  of  General  Gilbert  is  the  largest,  and  is  made  up,  before  all,  of  his  re 
fusal  of  prompt  assistance  to  General  McCook,  and  reference  of 'the  subject  to 
General  Buell,  by  which  over  an  hour's  time,  full  of  peril,  was  lost.     But  for  the 
unflinching  valor  of  McCook's  old  troops,  this  delay  would  have  resulted  in  the 
annihilation  of  the  whole  left  wing.     Every  consideration  of  duty  imposed  it  on 
General  Gilbert  to  respond  at  once  to  the  earnest  request  of  General  McCook.    It 
would  be  hard  to  find  a  counterpart  to  his  course  in  the  history  of  any  war.     The 
second  shortcoming  chargeable  to  him  is  his  neglect  to  improve  his  open  opportu 
nity  of  turning  the  reverse  of  the  day  into  victory,  by  lying,  with  25,000  men,  in  wait 
ing  for  an  attack,  instead  of  undertaking  one  himself,  which  would  have  not  only  re 
lieved  Gen.  McCook,  but  resulted  in  the  capture  and  destruction  of  his  assailants. 

The  question  will  probably  occur,  why  General  BuelJ  did  not  repair,  himself, 
to  the  battle-field,  instead  of  sending  an  aid,  to  ascertain  the  situation  ?  He  had 
met  with  a  mishap  of  a  peculiar  character  the  day  before,  that  had  rendered  him 
unable  to  mount  a  horse.  In  trying  to  ride  down  a  straggler  —  a  practice,  one 
would  think,  rather  incompatible  with  the  dignity  of  a  general-in-chief,  but  fre 
quently  indulged  in  by  General  Buell — his  charger  had  become  unmanageable 
and  threw  him. 

The  enemy  had  achieved  a  substantial  success,  though  at  no  trifling  cost  of  life 
and  limb.  They  had  killed  and  wounded  3,500,  including  three  general  officers, 
and  taken  prisoners,  400  of  our  soldiers;  captured  11  pieces  of  artillery,  and 
held  the  main  part  of  the  battle-field.  There  had  been  certain  chances  to  secure 
a  union  triumph,  instead  of  a  humiliation.  They  had  been  missed;  but  it  was 
still  in  the  power  of  General  Buell  to  make  up  for  the  loss  sustained  by  making 
prompt  use  of  time,  means,  and  circumstances.  Alas !  this,  too,  was  omitted,  as 
the  after  events  showed. 

The  total  losses  of  both  armies  by  this  battle  were  not  far  from 
8,000  men — the  rebels  losing  the  most.  On  the  next  morning,  our 
army  advanced,  to  find  the  enemy  gone.  Of  their  spoils,  they  had 
carried  off  only  two  guns,  and  their  prisoners.  "  The  astonishing  au- 


IN  KENTUCKY.  -^7 

dacity  of  the  rebels  in  venturing  into  the  very  fangs  of  our  army  with 
not  one  half  of  its  numbers,  had  not  involved  him"  in  any  serious  det 
riment."  General  Buell  still  acting  upon  the  theory  that  the  rebels 
designed  to  fight  a  battle  for  the  permanent  occupation  of  Kentucky 
remained  for^  three  days  in  the  vicinity  of  Perryville.  "During  all 
this  time,  his'  army  was  kept  in  constant  line  of  battle,  as  though  in 
expectation  of  an  attack.  The  whole  army  was  puzzled  by  this^nex- 
plicable  inactivity.  There  was  not  a  man  in  it,  from  generals  down 
to  privates,  outside  of  Buell's  headquarters,  that  did  not  fret  under 
it."  In  the  meanwhile,  Bragg's  army  had  leisurely  marched  northerly 
through  Harrodsburg,  thence  easterly  to  Bryantsville,  to  enable 

Kirby  Smith  to  join  him — thus  describing  two  sides  of  a  triangle 

while,  if  Buell  had  simply  marched  across  the  country,  easterly,  on 
the  third  side,  he  would  readily  have  intercepted  him.  "  It  was  nearly 
a  week  before  Buell  got  to  Danville,  only  half  a  day's  march  from 
Perryville  by  the  direct  route.  He  arrived  there,  via  Harrodsburg, 
on  Tuesday.  After  reaching  Danville  something  like  a  pursuit  was 
attempted :  it  was  too  late.  The  week's  delay  "of  Buell  had  given 
Bragg  ample  leisure  to  move  southward,  out  of  reach,  by  the  way  of 
Crab  Orchard  and  Mt.  Vernon.  He  got  out  of  the  state  safely,  his 
trains  loaded  down  with  the  riches  of  Central  Kentucky.  He  took 
millions  in  value — cattle,  mules,  hogs,  clothing,  boots,  shoes,  etc. 

Buell  was  soon  after  removed  from  command.  A  more  unpopular 
officer  never  commanded  American  soldiers :  and  "  it  was  not  uncom 
mon  to  hear  him  openly  denounced  as  a  traitor,  by  officers  and  men, 
from  generals  down  to  privates."  Gilbert  was  also  removed  and  heard 
of  no  more. 

Buell  was  acquitted  of  blame  for  the  management  of  the  campaign 
by  a  court  martial:  and,  to  this  day,  in  the  judgment  of  some  officers 
exalted  in  public  confidence,  stands  second  to  none  in  military 
ability. 

Evacuation  of  Cumberland  Gap. —  The  invasion  of  Kentucky  com 
pelled  the  evacuation  of  Cumberland  Gap,  which  important  post  was 
held  by  four  brigades  under  Gen.  Morgan,  of  Ohio.  They  left  on  the 
17th  of  September,  and,  marching  north,  struck  the  Ohio  at  Greenups- 
burg,  a  distance  of  about  230  miles,  in  15  days.  The  march  was  re 
markable  for  its  privations,  many  of  the  men  becoming  barefooted, 
and  destitute  of  pantaloons.  One  of  the  officers  gives  some  interest 
ing  items. 

The  division  had  been  on  half  rations  for  some  days,  and  left  the  Gap  without 
subsistence.  Along  the  entire  route  the  men  subsisted  on  green  corn,  gathered 
in  the  fields  by  the  wayside.  With  their  bayonets  they  picked  holes  in  their  tin 
plates,  cups,  and  canteens,  speedily  converted  them  into  graters,  on  which  they 
ground,  or  grated,  their  corn.  While  on  the  march,  each  gun  could  be  seen  with 
its  string  of  corn,  and  no  sooner  would  the  column  halt,  than  the  men  would  come 
down  to  their  tedious  and  tiresome  work  of  grating  their  corn  into  meal.  Water 
was  very  scarce.  All  they  found  was  in  ponds,  pools,  and  swamps,  green  and 
stagnated.  All  along  the  route,  they  were  harassed  by  the  enemy,  who  had 
blocked  the  road  with  fallen  timber.  At  many  points  Capt.  Patterson,  of  the  en 
gineer  corps  of  sappers  and  miners,  was  compelled  to  construct  a  new  road  through 
the  woods  and  over  the  mountains.  With  the  aid  of  blocks  and  tackle,  our  boys 
removed  the  fallen  trees  nearly  as  fast  as  they  were  felled  by  the  rebels.  Atone 
point,  Capt.  Patterson  informs  us,  that  while  he  was  removing.the  timber,  he  could 


128  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION, 

hear  the  rebels  chopping  down  the  trees  in  the  woods  ahead  of  him.  The  roads 
being  badly  cut  up,  considerable  time  was  occupied  in  fitting  up  and  repairing,  in 
order  to  admit  the  passage  of  teams  and  artillery.  The  rebel  Morgan,  who  was 
constantly  harassing  our  men  with  a  large  force  of  his  guerrilla  cavalry,  WHS 
frequently  misled  by  our  movements.  He  would  block  up  the  road  at  important 
crossings,  while  our  sappers  and  miners  would  speedily  make  a  cut  off,  thus  avoid 
ing  the  difficulty.  The  rebels  were  led  to  believe  that  we  were  moving  on  Mt. 
Sterling,  and  were  surprised  to  find  that  our  army  had  taken  a  different  course. 

No  event  of  moment  occurred  in  Kentucky  after  this  during  the 
war  until 

FOREST'S  ATTACK  ON  PADUCAH. 

Paducah,  on  the  Ohio,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tennessee,  has  suffered 
much  from  the  rebellion.  Upon  the  breaking  out  of  the  war,  the  se 
cession  mania  took  strong  root  in  the  minds  of  its  citizens.  When,  in 
September,  1861,  the  union  forces  occupied  it  for  the  first  time,  the 
streets  and  houses  were  found  decorated  with  rebel  flags,  in  anticipa 
tion  of  the  arrival  of  Folk's  army. 

When  attacked  by  the  rebel  General  Forrest,  on  the  25th  of  March, 
1864,  it  was  garrisored  by  the  following  forces,  under  command  of 
Col.  S.  Gr.  Hicks,  viz.:  311  men  of  the  16th  Kentucky;  124  of  the 
122d  Illinois,  and  250  (colored)  of  the  1st  Kentucky  artillery  —  in  all, 
685.  Forrest's  force  consisted  of  about  6,000  mounted  men,  with  eight 
pieces  of  artillery.  The  details  .of  the  attack  and  gallant  defense 
which  was  made  are  here  given  by  a  pen  familiar  with  them. 

Upon  learning  that  an  attack  would  be  made,  Col.  Hicks  notified  the  inhabitants 
of  that  fact  by  special  order,  so  when  the  first  attack  was  made  but  few  were  re 
maining  in  the  city.  Knowing  the  great  numerical  superiority  of  the  enemy, 
Col.  Hicks  ordered  his  whole  command  to  the  fort,  and  awaited  his  appearance. 

The  gun-boats,  Paw-paw  and  Peosta,  which  were  anchored  out  in  the  river, 
weighed  and  moored  toward  the  upper  end  of  the  wharf  —  the  one  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Tennessee,  the  other  a  little  below.  These  boats  have  a  light  armament, 
and  are  known  on  the  river  as  "tin-clads,"  their  plating  being  only  sufficiently 
thick  to  resist  the  missiles  of  small  arms,  and  perhaps  grapeshot. 

A  little  before  one  o'clock  the  enemy's  advance  came  in  sight,  and  in  a  moment 
afterward  the  main  body  appeared  in  the  act  of  forming  line  —  his  right  extend 
ing  toward  the  Tennessee,  and  being  nearest  to  town,  while  the  left  was  partially 
concealed  by  timber  at  long  cannon  range.  The  men  on  either  flank  were 
mounted,  while  bodies  of  dismounted  men,  who  at  that  distance  seemed  to  be  a 
little  in  advance  of  the  others,  appeared  in  occasional  intervals  in  the  line,  which 
was  little  less  than  two  miles  long. 

The  enemy  seemed  to  have  entered  on  his  campaign  with  an  accurate  knowl 
edge  of  what  was  to  be  done,  and  was  evidently  posted  as  to  the  strength  of  our 
garrison.  There  was  no  delay  in  the  advance.  He  pushed  his  line  forward,  ra 
pidly  and  steadily,  while,  at  the  same  time,  a  detachment  from  the  right  flank, 
several  hundred  strong,  dashed  into  the  now  deserted  city,  and  down  Market-street, 
and  the  other  streets  back  of  it,  until,  coming  within  rifle  range  of  the  fort,  they 
opened  a  galling  fire  from  the  houses. 

It  seems  that  Col.  Hicks,  prudently,  did  not  strain  his  men  at  the  commence 
ment  of  the  action,  and  although  his  fire  was  accurate,  it  was  delivered  slowly  — 
the  range  being  different  at  almost  every  discharge.  The  necessity  he  was  under 
of  turning  some  of  his  guns  upon  the  town  so  slackened  our  fire  'that  the  enemy 
was  enabled  to  make  a  charge  upon  the  fort.  But  the  movement  was  perceived 
and  prepared  for,  and  the  first  signs  of  an  advance  were  greeted  with  a  heavy  and 
well-directed  fire,  which  created  some  confusion.  The  rebels  continued  to  ad 
vance,  however,  and  a  part  of  them,  by  veering  to  the  right,  threw  themselves  par 
tially  under  cover  of  the  uneven  ground  and  the  suburban  buildings.  On  they 


IN  KENTUCKY. 

came,  with  loud  cheers  that  sounded  distinctly  through  the  now  increasing  roar 
of  battle,  and  which  were  defiantly  answered  by  our  men,  who  now,  reekin^  with 
perspiration,  plied  their  rammers  with  accelerated  rapidity,  and  hurled  destruc 
tion  through  the  advancing  lines.  As  soon  as  they  came  within  good  rifle  range 
a  terribly  destructive  fire  was  opened  upon  them,  and  men  toppled,  reeled^  and 
fell  to  the  ground  by  scores.  Although  the  overwhelming  force  continued  to  close 
upon  the  fort,  it  was  now  evident  that  there  was  much  disorder  among  them,  and 
presently  a  portion  of  the  line  gave  way,  when  the  whole  force  broke  in  confusion 
and  retreated  precipitately,  leaving  the  ground  strewn  with  not  less  than  200 
killed  and  wounded.  The  discomfited  rebels  were  then  re-formed  upon  their  ori 
ginal  line. 

The  houses  near  the  fort  were  again  occupied  by  sharpshooters,  and  the  rebels 
moved  rapidly  up,  with  increased  numbers,  and,  apparently,  a  full  determination 
to  succeed.  They  dashed  forward  from  behind  buildings,  and  such  other  objects 
as  served  to  cover  their  advance,  while  the  main  column  rushed  upon  the  fort, 
despite  the  murderous  fire  that  opposed  them.  But  their  efforts  were  futile.  The 
indomitable  "six  hundred"  had  no  idea  of  being  overpowered,  and  amid  the  an 
swering  thunders  from  fort  and  gun-boats,  and  the  unbroken  rattle  of  small  arms, 
the  enemy  was  again  repulsed  and  fled  from  the  field,  disordered  and  whipped. 
Not  less  than  500  men,  dead  or  wounded,  covered  the  field,  within  rifle  range  of 
the  fort.  A  more  gallant  defense  was  never  made.  But  the  fighting  did  not 
cease  with  this  repulse.  The  rebels  swarmed  thicker  and  thicker  in  the  build 
ings,  and  an  unintermitting  storm  of  lead  was  poured  from  roofs  and  windows, 
notwithstanding  the  houses  were  being  perforated  by  shot  and  shell  from  all  our 
guns. 

Every  gun  in  the  fort  was  now  turned  upon  the  town,  while  the  gun-boats  took 
an  active  part  in  sweeping  the  streets  and  shelling  the  houses.  The  enemy,  find 
ing  that  our  force  was  not  strong  enough  to  risk  leaving  the  works,  did  not  re 
form  his  whole  line  again,  but  sent  his  men  by  detachments,  several  hundred 
strong,  into  the  city,  some  to  burn  and  pillage,  and  others  to  reinforce  those  who 
were  yet  firing  upon  the  garrison.  Now  was  the  hardest  trial  our  brave  fellows 
had  to  bear.  In  spite  of  the  shells  that  were  sent  crushing  through  the  buildings, 
the  sharpshooters,  who,  by  this  time,  must  have  numbered  nearly  1,000,  held  their 
positions,  or  else  falling  back  for  a  few  minutes  again  came  forward,  and  deliv 
ered  their  fire. 

It  was  now  nearly  night-fall.  The  battle  had  continued  from  ten  o'clock  to 
after  five,  and  yet  the  fate  of  the  day  remained  undecided.  The  heroic  garrison, 
headed  by  their  resolute  commander,  still  stood  unfalteringly  to  their  posts,  while 
the  enemy,  conscious  of  the  strength  of  his  overwhelming  numbers,  seemed  loth, 
although  signally  repulsed,  to  yield  to  the  fact  of  his  undeniable  defeat. 

Four  hours  had  passed,  during  three  of  which  there  was  an  almost  unbroken 
roar  of  artillery  and  small  arms.  In  the  mean  time,  the  rebels  had  occupied 
every  part  of  the  town.  The  headquarters  and  quartermaster's  buildings,  which 
were  in  the  most  compactly  built  part  of  the  city,  had  been  sacked  and  fired. 
The  marine  ways  had  also  been  fired,  and  the  steamer  Dacotah,  which  was  on  the 
stocks  for  repairs,  was  boarded,  the  crew  robbed  of  every  thing,  and  the  boat 
burned.  Almost  every  store  in  the  place  was  broken  open,  and  its  contents  dam 
aged,  destroyed,  or  carried  off.  Clothing,  and  especially  boots  and  shoes,  seem 
to  have  been  chiefly  sought  for,  although  an  exceedingly  large  quantity  of  all 
styles  and  qualities  of  dry  goods,  groceries,  and  provisions  was  carried  off.  Every 
horse  that  could  be  found  was  taken,  and,  in  fact,  nothing  that  could  suit  taste  or 
convenience  was  overlooked. 

As  the  sun  began  to  sink,  the  slackened  fire  from  the  buildings  told  that  our 
shelling  had  not  been  without  effect,  and  the  rebels  could  be  seen  from  the  fort, 
as  they  left  the  houses  by  hundreds,  and  moved  back  toward  the  upper  end  of 
the  town,  bearing  their  dead  and  wounded.  Many,  however,  remained  behind, 
and  although  the  firing  was  now  light  it  was  continuous. 

By  this  time,  the  ammunition  in  the  fort  was  well-nigh  exhausted,  and  it  is 
barely  possible  that  if  the  enemy  had  again  attempted  to  storm  the  works,  the 
small  garrison  might  have  been  overpowered  by  sheer  stress  of  overwhelming 
9 


130  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

numbers.  But  his  disastrous  experience  of  that  day  deterred  him,  and  his  offen 
sive  operations  were  confined  to  sharp-shooting  from  the  buildings.  This  was 
kept  up  until  nearly  midnight,  when  the  firing  ceased  entirely,  and  the  rebels  left 
the  town.  Col.  Hicks'  announcement  to  the  garrison  that  their  ammunition  had 
almost  given  out,  but  that  they  would  defend  themselves  with  the  bayonet,  was 
received  with  loud  cheers,  and  showed  a  determination  to  fight  to  the  last.  That 
was  an  anxious  night  to  the  occupants  of  the  fort.  The  knowledge  that  their 
means  of  defense  would  not,  if  attacked,  last  much  longer,  that  the  enemy  was 
still  within  gun-shot  of  them  with  a  force  outnumbering  them  nearly  ten  to  one, 
and  that  it  was  very  probable  that  a  night  attack  would  be  made,  disinclined  all 
to  sleep,  and  the  peremptory  order  of  Col.  Hicks  that  every  man  should  remain 
broad  awake  and  stand  to  his  post,  was  scarcely  necessary.  So  the  night  passed, 
every  man  awaiting  expectantly  the  anticipated  attack  and  determined  to  win  or 
die. 

Next  morning,  the  enemy  was  found  to  be  still  in  our  front,  but  some  hundred 
yards  in  rear  of  his  original  line  of  the  day  before.  Every  thing  pointed  to 
another  attack,  and  another  day  of  trial  for  our  gallant  garrison.  In  view  of  this, 
Col.  Hicks  sent  out  several  detachments  with  orders  to  burn  all  the  buildings 
which  had  been  occupied  by  the  enemy's  sharpshooters,  on  the  previous  day,  or 
that  could  afford  them  a  similar  protection  in  the  event  of  an  attack  on  this  day. 
This  order  was  promptly  executed,  and  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  that  part  of 
the  town  below  Broadway,  and  between  Market-street  and  the  river,  together  with 
many  other  buildings  outside  of  these  limits,  were  in  flames.  Many  of  the  finest 
business  houses  and  dwellings  were  thus  destroyed,  and  none  who  has  formerly 
been  acquainted  with  this  once  beautiful  city  can  help  regretting  the  sad  but  im 
perative  necessity  that  called  for  its  partial  destruction. 

The  next  day  the  enemy  withdrew  fairly  beaten. 

The  rebel  Brigadier-general  Thompson  was  shot  through  the  head,  while  on  his 
horse  near  the  fort,  during  the  fight.  After  falling  to  the  ground,  a  shell  struck 
him  in  the  abdomen,  and  blew  him  to  pieces.  His  spinal  column  was  found  sev 
eral  feet  from  his  mangled  body.  Before  the  war,  he  was  looked  upon  as  one  of 
the  most  accomplished  gentlemen  in  Kentucky,  and  was  one  of  the  most  distin 
guished  lawyers  of  the  day.  He  was  for  a  long  time  prosecuting  attorney  of  his 
district,  and  attained  eminent  popularity  in  that  capacity. 

The  rebel  loss  was  estimated  at  over  1,000;  the  union  loss  was  less 
than  80. 

MORGAN'S  RAIDS. 

During  the  progress  of  the  war,  quite  a  number  of  raids  were  made 
into  Kentucky,  under  the  celebrated  John  Morgan,  a  native  of  the 
state,  born  and  bred  near  Lexington  ;  most  of  these  were  for  the  sake 
of  plunder,  and  were  far  from  being  successful.  In  nearly  every  en 
gagement  he  was  defeated,  and  generally  failed  to  carry  off  the  spoils 
he  had  collected.  On  the  18th  of  August,  1862,  he  made  a  dash  into 
the  city  of  Lexington,  killing  6,  and  capturing  120  unionists.  He  was 
defeated  by  a  body  of  union  cavalry,  inferior  in  numbers  to  his  own, 
near  Hardysville,  in  December  of  the  same  year.  He  captured  the 
union  garrison  at  Elizabethtown,  consisting  of  250  men,  on  the  28th 
of  December,  his  own  force  being  nearly  3000 ;  and  in  a  few  days  after, 
was  repulsed  in  an  attack  upon  New  Haven,  Kentucky.  On  the  19th 
of  March,  1863,  he  captured  a  train  on  the  Louisville  and  Nashville 
railroad,  but  while  engaged  in  plundering,  was  dispersed  by  a  de 
tachment  of  union  troops. 

On  the  5th  of  July,  with  4000  cavalry,  after  a  battle  of  seven  hours, 
he  compelled  Col.  Hanson,  with  500  men,  to  surrender  at  Lebanon. 
On  the  7th  of  July,  he  crossed  the  Ohio  river  with  a  large  force,  nearly 


IN  KENTUCKY.  jgj 

all  of  which  was  captured  at  different  points  in  Ohio,  among  them 
Morgan  himself;  who  afterward  escaped  irom  the  penitentiary  at  Co 
lumbus. 

Early  in  June,  1864,  Morgan  made  another  raid  into  Kentucky.  One  of  his 
men,  captured  at  Maysville,  reported,  that  the  force  in  Kentucky  was  immediately 
under  the  command  of  Gen.  Morgan,  Col.  Alston  and  Col.  Smith;  that  the  rel.pl 
force  was  about  3000,  a  large  portion  of  them  dismounted  cavalry.  They  entered 
the  state  at  Pound  Gap,  preceded  by  a  scouting  party,  under  Everett,  to  pick  up 
horses  for  their  dismounted  men;  passed  through  Hazelgreen,  Owingsville,  and 
Flemingsburgh,  and  took  Maysville  without  resistance,  robbing  its  citizens  of 
money  and  other  valuables.  The  farms  of  union  men  were  stripped  of  horses, 
while  those  of  rebel  citizens  were  protected.  Everett  left  Maysville  on  June  8th 
for  Mount  Sterling.  The  ordnance  train  from  Frankfort  was  attacked  near  Bag 
dad  by  a  rebel  force  under  Jenkins.  Mr.  Sparks,  a  union  member  of  the  Ken 
tucky  Legislature,  was  killed.  Gen.  Burbridge,  who  had  been  following  the  rebels 
since  they  left  Pound  Gap,  came  up  with  them  on  the  9th  at  Mount  Sterling,  and 
defeated  them.  A  portion  of  Morgan's  command  entered  Lexington  at  2  o'clock, 
on  the  morning  of  the  10th,  burned  the  Kentucky  Central  Railroad  depot,  robbed 
a^  number  of  stores,  and  left  at  10  o'clock,  in  the  direction  of  Georgetown  and 
Frankfort. 

On  Friday,  the  10th  of  June,  Morgan,  with  3000  rebels,  attacked  the  168th  and 
171st  Ohio  regiments,  under  Gen.  Hobson,  at  Cynthiana,  and  after  a  severe  fight, 
compelled  Hodson  to  surrender,  on  condition  that  his  men  should  be  immediately 
exchanged.  These  troops  from  Ohio  were  all  recruits,  without  military  experience. 

The  early  battle  was  scarcely  over  before  secession  citizens  threw  open  their 
doors,  and  invited  their  rebel  friends  in  to  breakfast.  Many  of  them  were  old  ac 
quaintances,  and  scores  of  fond  greetings  took  place  in  the  streets,  not  a  few 
females  running  out  and  stopping  their  old  friends  on  horseback,  greeting  them 
with  smiles  and  laughter,  although  they  came  with  the  blood  of  their  neighbors 
warm  on  their  hands. 

Morgan  remained  in  Cynthiana  Friday  night,  expecting  Burbridge's  forces,  and 
exultant  over  the  defeat  of  Hobson.  His  forces  were  drawn  up  in  line  of  battle 
Friday  night,  crossing  the  Millersburg  pike,  a  mile  east  of  the  town. 

At  12  o'clock,  Friday  night,  Gen  Burbridge  moved  his  columns  in  the  direction 
of  Paris,  and.  taking  some  prisoners  on  the  road,  arrived  there  at  daylight  on 
Saturday.  He  rested  all  day,  and  heard  of  the  fight  with  Hobson  at  Cynthiana. 
At  midnight  of  Sunday,  he  started  for  Cynthiana,  and  arrived  there  just  before 
daylight.  The  37th  Kentucky,  under  c  -mruand  of  Major  Tyler,  were  two  miles 
in  the  advance,  and  discovered  the  rebel  force  one  mile  from  town,  in  a  line  of 
battle  over  a  mile  long.  They  were  posted  behind  stone  walls,  in  houses,  and 
along  cross-fences.  The  37th  Kentucky  advanced  along  the  pike,  deployed  as 
skirmishers,  and  fought  the  enemy  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Gen.  Bur- 
bridge  came  up  during  the  skirmish,  and  deliberately  formed  his  line  of  bat 
tle  in  the  face  of  the  enemy,  about  four  hundred  yards  from  their  advance  line, 
placing  his  two  twelve-pounders  on  the  pike.  The  infantry  was  posted  on  the 
right  and  left  of  the  artillery,  and  the  cavalry  on  the  flanks,  the  7th  Ohio  on  the 
left,  and  the  9th  Michigan  on  the  right.  The  cavalry  simultaneously  flanked  the 
rebels,  and  turned  back  their  lines,  the  infantry  in  the  center  advancing  steadily, 
and  forcing  back  the  rebel  lines.  The  right  gave  way  first;  Col.  Minor  charging 
in  three  lines,  under  a  heavy  rebel  fire,  at  short  range,  and  relying  on  the  saber. 
Col.  Howard  Smith  quailed  before  their  advance,  and  turning  his  horse,  led  his 
men  in  a  panic  to  and  through  the  town.  In  charging  upon  the  rebel  left,  the 
9th  Michigan  struck  too  far  to  the  right,  and  cut  through  the  rebel  line,  driving 
them  to  the  river,  but  leaving  a  gap  through  which  Morgan  and  a  few  hundred  of 
his  men  escaped,  following  down  the  river,  and  taking  the  Augusta  pike.  The  in 
fantry  pressed  back  the  rebel  center,  and  repulsed  handsomely  a  cavalry  charge. 
The  artillery  meanwhile  was  moved  up  the  pike,  within  half  a  mile  of  town,  and 
had  hardly  got  in  position  when  another  cavalry  charge  was  made  upon  it.  But  a 
sweeping  fire  of  canister  swept  men  and  horses  before  it,  and  the  rout  already  be- 


132  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

gun,  reached  its  climax.  One  by  one  at  first  the  rebels  fell  back  through  town, 
crossed  the  river  and  followed  the  Williarastown  pike.  The  whole  line  closed  in 
on  them,  and  they  rushed  tumultuously  through  the  streets.  Down  the  railroad, 
over  fences,  up  the  steep  banks  and  through  the  bottoms,  the  rebels  plunged  head 
long  in  their  haste  to  escape.  Hemmed  in  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  their  line 
of  escape  was  over  the  bridge  west  of  town,  which  was  filled  with  routed  and  panic- 
stricken  horsemen.  A  general  charge,  by  columns  down  the  streets,  was  made  by 
Gen.  Burbridge's  forces,  and  Morgan's  command  completely  routed.  The  rebels, 
unable  to  cross  by  the  bridge,  pushed  into  the  river,  great  numbers  of  whom  were 
killed  or  drowned  while  crossing.  Those  who  remained  together,  struck  off  to  the 
west,  and  were  followed  for  six  miles  out  by  the  pursuing  force,  leaving  their 
killed  and  wounded  at  every  point.  In  the  engagement,  Morgan  himself  com 
manded  at  first,  but  soon  left  his  men  under  Col.  Howard  Smith,  and  escaped. 

Gen.  Burbridge's  success  was  complete.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  prisoners  were 
taken,  and  one  hundred  killed  or  drowned.  The  wounded  were  most  of  them  so 
severely  injured  as  to  be  unfitted  for  service  forever,  and  many  of  them  were  mor 
tally  wounded.  Their  rebel  friends  concealed  their  number,  making  it  difficult  to 
obtain  a  reliable  estimate.  The  losses  in  Gen.  Burbridge's  command  were  sixteen 
killed  and  mortally  wounded,  twenty-nine  wounded,  and  none  missing.  One 
thousand  two  hundred  horses  were  captured,  and  a  large  supply  of  ammunition, 
and  one  hundred  prisoners  retaken. 

Sunday  night,  Gen.  Burbridge  and  staff,  with  four  companies  of  the  llth  Michi 
gan  cavalry,  rode  all  night  and  reached  Georgetown  by  daylight.  Col.  Garrard's 
command,  which  was  mounted  on  fresh  horses,  and  Col.  Hanson's  brigade,  con 
tinued  the  pursuit.  Col.  Garrard's  brigade  followed  Morgan  closely  to  Clack 
Mountain,  near  Morehead,  when  further  pursuit  would  have  be  fruitless.  The 
total  number  who  escaped  with  Morgan,  according  to  reliable  estimates,  did  not 
exceed  700. 

This  was  the  last  of  the  raids  of  the  famous  John  Morgan.  On 
Sunday,  the  4th  of  the  September  ensuing,  Gen.  Gillam  surprised  Mor 
gan  and  his  band  at  Greenville,  East  Tennessee,  capturing  86  prisoners 
and  one  gun.  Morgan  was  killed,  the  details  of  his  death  are  thus 
given,  as  published  at  the  time. 

Morgan  was  at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Williams,  in  the  town,  and  was  so 
suddenly  surprised  that  he  rushed  out  only  partly  dressed.  As  he 
was  passing  through  the  garden,  in  the  rear  of  the  house,  he  was  shot 
through  the  body,  by  Andrew  G.  Campbell,  13th  Tennessee  cavalry. 
This  man  had  two  grievances,  aside  from  his  desire  to  serve  his  coun 
try,  which  made  him  more  anxious  to  kill  the  great  horse-thief.  "When 
our  forces  retired  from  that  section,  Capt.  Keenan,  of  Gen.  Gillam's 
staff,  was  left  at  the  house  of  a  widow.  When  Morgan  came  up,  he 
cursed  the  woman  for  receiving  him  into  her  house,  and  took  the  sick 
man  and  threw  him  into  a  rough  road  wagon,  and  said,  "Haul  him  off 
like  a  hog ;"  and  our  men  have  not  heard  from  him  since.  The  other 
grievance  was  that  Campbell  had  been  conscripted,  and  had  to  serve 
in  the  rebel  ranks  some  months  before  he  could  escape.  After  shoot 
ing  Morgan,  he  took  the  body  on  his  horse  and  carried  it  about  one 
fourth  of  a  mile,  and  pitching  it  to  the  ground,  he  observed  to  his  officers, 
"  There  he  is,  like  a  hog" 

Campbell  for  this  service  was  promoted  to  a  lieutenancy.  Two  of 
Morgan's  staff,  Captains  Withers  and  Clay,  the  latter  a  grandson  of 
Henry  Clay,  were  captured  in  the  garden  of  Mrs.  Williams,  concealed 
in  a  hole  in  which  potatoes  had  been  buried. 


OHIO. 


THE  territory  now  comprised  within  the  limits  of  Ohio  was,  originally, 
part  of  that  vast  region  formerly  claimed  by  France,  between  the  Alleghany 

and  Rocky  Mountains,  known  by  the 
general  name  of  Louisiana.  It  re 
ceived  its  name  from  the  river  that 
forms  its  southern  boundary.  The 
word  Ohio,  in  the  Wyandot,  signifies, 
"fair"  or  "beautiful  river"  which 
was  the  name  given  to  it  by  the 
French,  the  first  Europeans  who  ex 
plored  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  disastrous  expedition,  under 
La  Salle,  who  was  murdered  by  his 
own  men,  did  not  abate  the  ardor  of 
the  French  in  their  great  plan  of  ob 
taining  possession  of  the  vast  region 
westward  of  the  English  colonies. 
Iberville,  a  French  officer,  having  in 
charge  an  expedition,  sailed  from 
France  to  the  Mississippi.  He  en 
tered  the  mouth  of  this  river,  and  proceeded  upward  for  several  hundred 
miles.  Permanent  establishments  were  made  at  different  points,  and  from 
this  time,  the  French  colonies  west  of  the  Allcghanies  increased  in  numbers 
and  strength.  Previous  to  the  year  1725,  the  colony  had  been  divided  into 
quarters,  each  having  its  local  governor,  but  all  subject  to  the  superior  coun 
cil  general  of  Louisiana.  One  of  these  quarters  was  established  north-west 
of  the  Ohio. 

Before  the  year  1750,  a  French  post  had  been  fortified  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Wabash,  and  a  communication  opened  with  Canada,  through  that  river 
and  the  Maumee.  About  the  same  time,  and  for  the  purpose  of  checking 
the  French,  the  "Ohio  Company"  was  formed,  and  made  some  attempts  to 
establish  trading  houses  among  the  Indians. 

The  claims  of  the  different  European  monarchs  to  large  portions  of  Amer 
ica,  were  founded  on  the  first  discoveries  of  their  subjects.  In  1609,  the 
English  monarch  granted  to  the  London  Company,  a  tract  of  land  two  hun 
dred  miles  along  the  coast,  "up  into  the  land  throughout  from  sea  to  sea,  west 
and  north-west."  In  1662,  Charles  II  granted  to  certain  settlers  on  the  Con- 

(133) 


ARMS  OF  OHIO. 


134 


OHIO. 


necticut,   a  tract  which  extended  its  present  limits  north  and   south,   due 
west  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

In  1749,  the  year  after  the  formation  of  the  Ohio  Company,  it  appears  that 
the  English  built  a  trading  house  upon  the  Great  Miami.  In  1752,  this  was 
destroyed,  after  a  severe  battle,  and  the  traders  were  carried  away  to  Canada. 
This  was  the  first  British  settlement  in  this  section  of  which  we  have  any 
record.  The  Moravian  missionaries,  prior  to  the  American  Revolution,  had 
a  number  of  stations  within  the  limits  of  Ohio.  As  early  as  1762,  the  mis 
sionaries,  Heckewelder  and  Post,  were  on  the  Muskingum.  Mary  ffecke- 
welder,  the  daughter  of  the  missionary,  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  white 
child  born  in  Ohio. 

After  Braddock's  defeat,  in  1755,  the  Indians  pushed  their  excursions  as 
far  as  the  Blue  Ridge.  In  1764,  Gen.  Bradstreet,  having  dispersed  the  In 
dian  forces  besieging  Detroit,  passed  into  the  Wyandot  country  by  way  of 
Sandusky  Bay.  A  treaty  of  peace  was  signed  by  the  chiefs  and  head  men. 
The  Shawnees,  of  the  Scioto  River,  and  the  Delawares,  of  the  Muskingum, 
however,  still  continued  hostile.  Col.  Boquet,  in  1764,  with  a  body  of  troops, 
marched  from  Fort  Pitt  into  the  heart  of  the  Ohio  country,  on  the  Mus 
kingum  River.  This  expedition  was  conducted  with  great  prudence  and 
skill,  and  with  scarcely  any  loss  of  life.  A  treaty  of  peace  was  effected  with 
the  Indians,  who  restored  the  prisoners  they  had  captured  from  the  white 
settlements.  The  next  war  with  the  Indians  was  Lord  Dunmore's,  in  1774. 
In  the  fall  of  the  year,  the  Indians  were  defeated  at  Point  Pleasant,  on  the 
Virginia  side  of  the  Ohio.  Shortly  after,  peace  was  made  with  the  Indians 
at  Camp  Charlotte,  a  few  miles  north  of  the  site  of  the  city  of  Chillicothe. 

During  the  Revolutionary  war,  most  of  the  western  Indians  were  more  or 
less  united  against  the  Americans.  In  the  summer  of  1780,  Gen.  Clark  led 
a  body  of  Kentuckians  against  the  Shawn'ees.  Old  Chillicothe,  on  the  Lit 
tle  Miami,  was  burnt  on  their  approach,  but  at  Piqua,  on  Mad  River,  six 
miles  below  the  site  of  Springfield,  they  gave  battle  to  the  whites  and  were 
defeated.  Their  towns,  Upper  and  Lower  Piqua,  were  destroyed.  In  March, 
1782,  a  party  of  Americans,  in  cold  blood,  murdered  94  of  the  defenseless  Mo 
ravian  Indians,  within  the  limits  of  Tuscarawas  county.  In  June  following, 
Col.  Crawford,  at  the  head  of  about  500  men,  was  defeated  by  the  Indians, 
'  three  miles  north  of  the  site  of  Upper  Sandusky,  in  Wyandot  county.  Col. 
Crawford  was  taken  prisoner  in  the  retreat,  and  burnt  at  the  stake  with  hor 
rible  tortures. 

After  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war,  the  states  which  owned  western 
unappropriated  lands,  with  a  single  exception,  ceded  their  lands  to  the  United 
States.  Virginia,  in  1784.  ceded  all  her  claim  to  lands  north-west  of  the 
Ohio.  In  1786,  Connecticut  also  ceded  her  claim  of  soil  and  jurisdiction  to 
all  the  territory  within  her  chartered  limits  west  of  Pennsylvania.  She  also, 
in  May,  1801,  ceded  her  jurisdictional  claims  to  all  that  territory  called  the 
u  Western  Reserve  of  Connecticut."  New  York  and  Massachusetts  also 
ceded  all  their  claims.  Numerous  tribes  of  Indians,  by  virtue  of  their  prior 
possession,  asserted  their  respective  claims,  which,  also,  had  to  be  extin 
guished,  for  which  purpose  treaties  with  the  several  tribes  were  made  at  Vari 
ous  times. 

The  Indian  title  to  a  large  part  of  the  territory  within  the  limits  of  Ohio 
having  become  extinguished,  legislative  action  on  the  part  of  congress  be 
came  necessary  before  commencing  settlements.  In  1785,  they  passed  an 
ordinance  for  determining  the  mode  of  disposing  of  these  lands.  Under  that 


135 

ordinance,  the  first  seven  ranges,  bounded  on  the  east  by  Pennsylvania  and 
on  the  south  by  the  Ohio,  were  surveyed.  Sales  of  parts  of  these  were  made 
in  New  York  in  1787,  and  sales  of  other  parts  of  the  same  range  were  made 
at  Pittsburgh  and  Philadelphia.  No  further  sales  were  made  in  that  dis 
trict  until  the  land  office  was  opened  in  Steubenville,  July  1,  1801. 

In  October,  1787,  the  U.  S.  board  of  treasury  sold  to  Manassah  Cutler  and 
Winthrop  Sargeant,  the  agents  of  the  New  England  Ohio  Company,  a  tract 
of  land,  bounded  by  the  Ohio,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto  to  the  intersec 
tion  of  the  western  boundary  of  the  seventh  range  of  townships  then  sur 
veying:  thence  by  said  boundary  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the  tenth 
township  from  the  Ohio,  etc.  These  bounds  were  altered  in  1792.  The  set 
tlement  of  this  purchase  commenced  at  Marietta,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mus- 
kingum,  in  the  spring  of  1788,  and  was  the  first  settlement  formed  in  Ohio. 

The  same  year  in  which  Marietta  was  first  settled,  congress  appointed  Gen. 
Arthur  St.  Clair  governor.  The  territorial  government  was  organized,  laws 
were  made  or  adopted  by  the  governor  and  Judges  Parsons  and  Varnuni. 
The  county  of  Washington,  embracing  about  half  the  territory  within  the 
present  limits  of  Ohio,  was  established  by  the  proclamation  of  the  governor. 
A.  short  time  after  the  settlement  had  commenced,  an  association  was  formed 
under  the  name  of  the  "  Scioto  Land  Company.'"  A  contract  was  made  for 
the  purchase  of  part  of  the  lands  of  the  Ohio  Company.  Plans  and  descrip 
tions  of  these  lands  being  sent  to  France,  they  were  sold  to  companies  arid 
individuals.  On  Feb.  19,  1791,  two  hundred  and  eighteen  of  these  pur 
chasers  left  France,  and  arrived  at  Alexandria,  Va.,  from  whence  they  went 
to  Marietta,  where  about  fifty  of  them  landed :  the  remainder  of  them  pro 
ceeded  to  Gallipolis,  which  was  laid  out  about  that  time.  Their  titles  to  the 
lands  proving  defective,  congress,  in  1798,  granted  them  a  tract  on  the  Ohio, 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto  River,  called  the  "French  Grant." 

In  January,  1789,  a  treaty  was  made  at  Fort  Harniar,  between  Gov.  St. 
Clair  and  the  Wyandots,  Chippewas,  Pottawatomies,  and  Sacs,  in  which  for 
mer  treaties  were  renewed.  It  did  not,  however,  produce  the  favorable  re 
sults  anticipated.  The  Indians,  the  same  year,  assumed  a  hostile  appear 
ance,  hovered  around  the  infant  settlements  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum, 
and  between  the  Miamis.  Nine  persons  were  killed,  the  new  settlers  became 
alarmed,  and  block  houses  were  erected. 

Negotiations  with  the  Indians  proving  unavailing,  Gen.  Harmar  was  di 
rected  to  attack  their  towns.  He  marched  from  Cincinnati,  in  Sept.,  1790, 
with  1,300  men,  and  went  into  the  Indian  country  near  the  site  of  Fort 
Wayne,  in  north-western  Indiana,  and,  after  some  loss,  succeeded  in  burning 
towns,  and  destroying  standing  corn,  but  the  object  of  the  expedition  in 
intimidating  the  Indians  was  entirely  unsuccessful.  As  the  Indians  continued 
hostile,  a  new  army  was  assembled  at  Cincinnati,  consisting  of  about  3,000 
men,  under  the  command  of  Gov.  St.  Clair,  who  commenced  his  march  toward 
the  Indian  towns  on  the  Maumee.  On  the  4th  of  Nov.,  1791,  when  near  the 
present  northern  line  of  Darke  county,  the  American  army  was  surprised 
about  half  an  hour  before  sunrise,  as  there  is  good  reason  to  believe,  by  the 
whole  disposable  force  of  the  north-west  tribes.  The  Americans  were 
totally  defeated :  upward  of  six  hundred  were  killed,  among  whom  was  Gen. 
Butler. 

In  the  spring  of  1794,  an  American  army  assembled  at  Greenville,  in 
Darke  county,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Anthony  Wayne,  consisting  of 
about  2,000  regular  troops,  and  1,500  mounted  volunteers  from  Kentucky. 


136  OHI°- 

The  Indians  had  collected  their  whole  force,  amounting  to  about  2,000  war 
riors,  near  a  British  fort  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  of  Maurnee.  On  the  20th 
of  Aug.,  1794,  Gen.  Wayne  encountered  the  enemy  in  a  short  and  deadly 
conflict,  when  the  Indians  fled  in  the  greatest  confusion.  After  destroying 
all  the  houses  and  cornfields  in  the  vicinity,  the  victorious  army  returned  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Auglaize,  where  Wayne  erected  Fort  Defiance.  The  In 
dians,  being  convinced  of  their  inability  to  resist  the  American  arms,  sued 
for  peace.  A  grand  council  of  eleven  of  the  most  powerful  tribes  assembled 
at  Greenville,  when  they  agreed  to  acknowledge  the  United  States  their  sole 
protector,  and  never  to  sell  their  lands  to  any  other  power. 

At  this  period  there  was  no  fixed  seat  of  government.  The  laws  were 
passed  whenever  they  seemed  to  be  needed,  at  any  place  where  the  territorial 
legislators  happened  to  assemble.  The  population  of  the  territory  continued 
to  increase  and  extend.  From  Marietta,  settlers  spread  into  the  adjoining 
country.  The  Virginia  military  reservation  drew  a  considerable  number  of 
Revolutionary  veterans  and  others  from  that  state.  The  region  between  the 
Miamis,  from  the  Ohio  far  upward  toward  the  sources  of  Mad  River,  became 
chequered  with  farms.  The  neighborhood  of  Detroit  became  populous,  and 
Connecticut,  by  grants  of  land  within  the  tract  reserved  in  her  deed  of  ces 
sion,  induced  many  of  her  citizens  to  seek  a  home  on  the  borders  of  Lake 
Erie. 

The  territorial  legislature  first  met  in  1799.  An  act  was  passed  confirming 
the  laws  enacted  by  the  judges  and  governor,  the  validity  of  which  had  been 
doubted.  This  act,  as  well  as  every  other  which  originated  in  the  council, 
was  prepared  and  brought  forward  by  Jacob  Burnet,  afterward  a  distinguished 
judge  and  senator,  to  whose  labors,  at  this  session,  the  territory  was  indebted 
for  some  of  its  most  beneficial  laws.  William  H.  Harrison,  then  secretary  of 
the  territory,  was  elected  delegate  to  congress.  In  1802,  congress  having  ap 
proved  the  measure,  a  convention  assembled  in  Chillicothe  and  formed  a  state 
constitution,  which  became  the  fundamental  law  of  the  state  by  the  act  of  the 
convention  alone,  and  by  this  act  Ohio  became  one  of  the  states  of  the  federal 
union. 

The  first  general  assembly  under  the  state  constitution  met  at  Chillicothe, 
March  1,  1803.  Eight  new  counties  were  made  at  this  session,  viz:  Gallia, 
Scioto,  Franklin,  Columbiana,  Butler,  Warren,  Greene  and  Montgomery. 
In  1805,  the  United  States,  by  a  treaty  with  the  Indians,  acquired  for  tho 
use  of  the  grantees  of  Connecticut  all  that  part  of  the  Western  Reserve  which 
lies  west  of  the  Cuyahoga.  By  subsequent  treaties,  all  the  country  watered 
by  the  Maumee  and  Sandusky  was  acquired,  and  the  Indian  title  to  lands 
in  Ohio  is  now  extinct. 

About  the  year  1810,  the  Indians,  who,  since  the  treaty  at  Greenville,  had 
been  at  peace,  began  to  commit  depredations  upon  the  western  settlers.  The 
celebrated  Tecumseh  was  active  in  his  efforts  to  unite  the  native  tribes  against 
the  Americans,  and  to  arrest  the  further  extension  of  the  settlements.  In 
1811,  Gen.  Harrison,  then  governor  of  Indiana  territory,  marched  against 
the  Indians  on  the  Wabash.  The  battle  of  Tippecanoe  ensued,  in  which  the 
Indians  were  totally  defeated.  In  the  war  of  1812,  with  Great  Britain,  Ohio 
bore  her  full  share  in  the  contest.  Her  sons  volunteered  with  alacrity  their 
services  in  the  field,  and  hardly  a  battle  was  fought  in  the  north-west  in 
which  some  of  these  citizen  soldiers  did  not  seal  their  devotion  to  their  coun 
try  in  their  blood. 

In  1816,  the  seat  of  government  was  removed  to  Columbus.     In  1817,  tha 


OHIO.  137 

first  resolution  relating  to  a  canal  connecting  the  Ohio  River  with  Lake  Erie 
was  introduced  into  the  legislature.  In  1825,  an  act  was  passed  "to  provide 
for  the  internal  improvement  of  the  state  by  navigable  canals."  The  con 
struction  of  these  and  other  works  of  improvement  has  been  of  immense  ad 
vantage  in  developing  the  resources  of  Ohio,  which  in  little  more  than  half  a 
century  has  changed  from  a  wilderness  to  one  of  the  most  powerful  states  of 
the  union. 

Ohio  is  bounded  N.  by  Michigan  and  Lake  Erie,  E.  by  Pennsylvania  and 
Virginia,  W.  by  Indiana,  and  southerly  by  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  being 
separated  from  these  last  named  two  states  by  the  Ohio  River,  which  washes 
the  borders  of  the  state,  through  its  numerous  meanderings,  for  a  distance  of 
more  than  430  miles.  It  is  about  220  miles  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  200 
from  N.  to  S.,  situated  between  38°  32'  and  42°  N.  Lat.,  and  between  80°  35' 
and  84°  40'  W.  Long.  The  surface  of  the  state  covers  an  area  of  about 
39,964  square  miles,  or  25,576,  960  acres,  of  which  about  one  half  are  im 
proved. 

The  land  in  the  interior  of  the  state  and  bordering  on  Lake  Erie  is  gen 
erally  level,  and  in  some  places  marshy.  From  one  quarter  to  one  third  of 
the  territory  of  the  state,  comprising  the  eastern  and  southern  parts  bordering 
on  the  Ohio  River,  is  hilly  and  broken.  On  the  margin  of  the  Ohio,  and 
several  of  its  tributaries,  are  alluvial  lands  of  great  fertility.  The  valleys  of 
the  Scioto  and  the  Great  and  Little  Miami  are  the  most  extensive  sections  of 
level,  rich  and  fertile  lands  in  the  state.  In  the  north-west  section  of  the 
state  is  an  extensive  tract  of  great  fertility,  called  the  "Black  Swamp,"  much 
of  which,  since  the  year  1855,  has  been  opened  into  farms  with  un 
precedented  rapidity.  Though  Ohio  has  no  elevations  which  may  be 
termed  mountains,  the  center  of  the  state  is  about  1,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  summit  of  the  abrupt  hills  bordering  on  the  Ohio,  several 
hundred  feet  high,  are  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  surrounding  country  through 
which  the  rivers  have  excavated  their  channels  in  the  lapse  of  ages. 

Ohio  possesses  in  abundance  the  important  minerals  of  coal  and  iron.  The 
bituminous  coal  region  commences  at  the  Ohio  River,  and  extends  in  a  belt, 
between  the  Scioto  and  Muskingum  Rivers,  nearly  to  Lake  Erie.  Great  quan 
tities  of  iron  ore  are  found  in  the  same  section  in  a  bed  about  100  miles  long 
by  12  wide,  said  to  be  superior  to  any  other  in  the  United  States  for  the  finer 
castings.  Salt  springs  are  frequent  and  very  valuable.  Marble  and  free 
stone,  well  adapted  for  building  purposes,  abound.  Almost  all  parts  are  suit 
able  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  the  state  ranks  among  the  first  in  the  pro 
ducts  of  the  soil.  Indian  corn  is  the  staple  production.  Large  crops  of 
wheat,  great  quantities  of  pork,  butter,  cheese  and  wool  are  annually  pro 
duced.  The  grain  crops  of  Ohio  are  very  large ;  the  estimate  for  1860,  a 
favorable  year,  was:  Indian  corn,  80  millions  of  bushels;  wheat,  30  millions; 
and  oats,  20  millions.  It  is  estimated  that  the  whole  state  has  the  natural 
capacity  to  feed  18  millions  of  people.  Population  in  1800  was  45,365 ;  in 
1820,  581,434;  in  1850,  1,980,408,  and  in  I860,  2,377,917. 

MARIETTA,  the  capital  of  Washington  county,  and  oldest  town  in  the  state, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  left  or  east  bank  of  the  Muskingum,  at  its  con 
fluence  with  the  Ohio,  104  miles  south-east  of  Columbus,  62  below  Wheeling, 
Va.,  and  300,  by  the  river,  above  Cincinnati.  It  is  built  principally  on  level 
ground,  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  Many  of  the  houses  are  con 
structed  with  great  neatness,  having  fine  gardens,  and  ornamental  trees  and 


138 


OHIO. 


shrubbery,  which  mark  the  New  England  origin  of  its  population.  The 
founders  of  the  town  comprised  an  unusual  number  of  persons  of  refinement 
and  taste.  Very  many  of  them  had  served  as  officers  in  the  armies  of  the 
revolution,  and  becoming  ruined  in  their  fortunes  in  the  service  of  their  coun 
try,  were  thus  prompted  to  seek  a  new  home  in  the  wilds  of  the  west.  Ma 
rietta  College,  in  this  place,  was  chartered  in  1835,  and  is  one  of  the  most  re 
spectable  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  state.  Population  about  5,000. 

In  the  autumn  of  1785,  a 
detachment  of  U.  S.  troops, 
under  the  command  of  Maj. 
Doughty,  commenced  the 
erection  of  Fort  Harmar,  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Musk- 
ingum.  It  was  named  in 
honor  of  Col.  Harmar,  to 
whose  regiment  Major 
Doughty  was  attached.  In 
the  autumn  of  1787,  the  di 
rectors  of  the  Ohio  Company 
organized  in  New  England, 
preparatory  to  a  settlement. 
In  the  course  of  the  winter 
following,  a  party  of  about 
40  men,  under  the  superin 
tendence  of  Col.  Rufus  Put 
nam,  proceeded  over  the  Al- 
leghanies  by  the  old  Indian 
path  which  had  been  opened 
into  Braddock's  road,  and 
boats  being  constructed,  they  proceeded  down  the  river,  and  on  the  7th  of 
April,  1788,  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum,  and  laid  the  foundation 
of  the  state  of  Ohio. 

"As  St.  Clair,  who  had  been  appointed  governor  the  preceding  October,  had  not 
yet  arrived,  it  became  necessary  to  erect  a  temporary  government  for  their  internal 
security,  for  which  purpose  a  set  of  laws  was  passed  and  published,  by  being  nailed 
to  a  tree  in  the  village,  and  Return  Jonathan  Meigs  was  appointed  to  administer 
them.  It  is  a  strong  evidence  of  the  good  habits  of  the  people  of  the  colony,  that 
during  three  months  but  one  difference  occurred,  and  that  was  compromised.  In 
deed,  a  better  set  of  men  altogether  could  scarce  have  been  selected  for  the  pur 
pose  than  Putnam's  little  band.  Washington  might  well  say,  'no  colony  in  America 
was  ever  settled  under  such  favorable  auspices  as  that  which  was  first  commenced 
at  the  Muskingum.  Information,  property  and  strength  will  be  its  characteristics. 
I  know  many  of  the  settlers  personally,  and  there  never  were  men  better  calculated 
to  promote  the  welfare  of  such  a  community.' 

On  the  2d  of  July,  a  meeting  of  the  directors  and  agents  was  held  on  the  banks 
of  the  Muskingum,  for  the  purpose  of  naming  the  new-born  city  and  its  public 
squares.  As  the  settlement  had  been  merely  'The  Muskingum/  the  name  Marietta 
was  now  formally  given  to  it,  in  honor  of  Marie  Antoinette. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  an  oration  was  delivered  by  James  M.  Varnum,  who,  with 
S.  H.  Parsons  and  John  Armstrong,  had  been  appointed  to  the  judicial  bench  of 
the  territory,  on  the  16th  of  October,  1787.  Five  days  later,  the  governor  arrived, 
and  the  colony  began  to  assume  form.  The  ordinance  of  1787  provided  two  dis 
trict  grades  of  government  for  the  north-west  territory,  under  the  first  of  which  the 
whole  power  was  in  the  hands  of  the  governor  and  three  judges,  and  this  form  was 
at  once  organized  upon  the  governor's  arrival.  The  first  law,  which  was  'for  regu- 


SOUTHERN  VIEW   OF  THE   ANCIENT   MOUND,   MARIETTA. 

The  engraving  shows  the  appearance  of  the  Mound  as  seen 
from  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Rosseter,  in  Marietta,  opposite  the 
grave-yard.  Its  base  is  a  regular  circle,  115  feet  in  diameter ; 
its  perpendicular  altitude  is  3d  feet.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch 
4  feet  deep  and  15  wide,  defended  by  a  parapet  4  feet  high, 
through  which  is  a  gate-way. 


OHIO. 


139 


uting  and  establishing  the  militia,'  was  published  upon  the  25th  of  July,  and  the 
iext  day  appeared  the  governor's  proclamation,  erecting  all  the  country  that  had 
been  ceded  by  the  Indians  east  of  the  Scioto  River  into  the  county  of  Wash 
ington. 

From  that  time  forward,  notwithstanding  the  doubt  yet  existing  as  to  the  In 
dians,  all  at  Marietta  went  on  prosperously  and  pleasantly.  On  the  2d  of  Septem 
ber,  the  first  court  was  held,  with  becoming  ceremonies,  which  was  the  first  civil 
court  ever  convened  in  the  territory  north-west  of  the  Ohio. 

;The  procession  was  formed  at  the  Point  (where  most  of  the  settlers  resided),  in 
the  following  order:  1st,  the  high  sheriff,  with  his  drawn  sword;  2d,  the  citizens; 
3d,  the  officers  of  the  garrison  at  Fort  Harmar;  4th,  the  members  of  the  bar;  5th, 
the  supreme  judges;  6th,  the  governor  and  clergyman;  7th,  the  newly  appointed 
judges  of  the  court  of  common  pleas,  generals  Bufus  Putnam  and  Benj.  Tupper. 

They  marched  up  a  path  that  had  been  cut  and  cleared  through  the  forest  to 
Campus  Martius  Hill  (stockade),  where  the  whole  counter-marched,  and  the  judges 
(Putnam  and  Tupper)  took  their  seats.  The  clergyman,  Rev.  Dr.  Cutler,  then  in 
voked  the  divine  blessing.  The  sheriff,  Col.  Ebenezer  Sproat  (one  of  nature's  no 
bles),  proclaimed  with  his  solemn  'Oh  yes'  that  a  court  is  opened  for  the  adminis 
tration  of  even  handed  justice  to  the  poor  and  the  rich,  to  the  guilty  and  the  inno 
cent,  without  respect  of  persons ;  none  to  be  punished  without  a  trial  by  their 
peers,  and  then  in  pursuance  of  the  laws  and  evidence  in  the  case.'  Although  this 
scene  was  exhibited  thus  early  in  the  settlement  of  the  state,  few  ever  equaled  it 
in  the  dignity  and  exalted  character  of  its  principal  participators.  Many  of  them 
belong  to  the  history  of  our  country,  in  the  darkest  as  well  as  most  splendid  pe 
riods  of  the  revolutionary  war.  To  witness  this  spectacle,  a  large  body  of  Indians 
was  collected  from  the  most  powerful  tribes  then  occupying  the  almost  entire  west. 
They  had  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  treaty.  Whether  any  of  them 
entered  the  hall  of  justice,  or  what  were  their  impressions,  we  are  not  told.'  " 


Campus  Martius,  at  Marietta,  in  1791. 

Soon  after  landing,  Campus  Martius,  a  stockaded  fort,  was  begun  on  the 
verge  of  that  ^beautiful  plain,  overlooking  the  Muskingum,  on  which  are 
seated  those  celebrated  remains  of  antiquity,  but  it  was  not  completed  with 
palisades  and  bastions  until  the  winter  of  1790-1.  It  was  a  square  of  180 
feet  on  a  side.  At  each  corner  was  a  strong  block-house,  surmounted  by  a 
tower  and  sentry-box  : 

These  houses  were  20  feet  square  below,  and  24  feet  above,  and  projected  6  feet 
beyond  the  curtains,  or  main  walls  of  the  fort.  The  intermediate  curtains  were 
built  up  with  dwelling  houses,  made  of  wood,  whipsawed  into  timbers  four  inches 
thick,  and  of  the  requisite  width  and  length.  These  were  laid  up  similar  to  the 


14o  OHIO. 

structure  of  log  houses,  with  the  ends  nicely  dove-tailed  or  fitted  together  so  as  to 
make  a  neat  finish.  The  whole  were  two  stories  high,  and  covered  with  good  shin 
gle  roofs.  Convenient  chimneys  were  erected  of  bricks,  for  cooking  and  warming 
the  rooms.  A  number  of  the  dwelling  houses  were  built  and  owned  by  private  in 
dividuals,  who  had  families.  In  the  west  and  south  fronts  were  strong  gateways; 
and  over  that  in  the  center  of  the  front  looking  to  the  Muskingum  Kiver,  was  a 
belfry.  The  chamber  underneath  was  occupied  by  the  Hon.  Winthrop  Sargeant, 
as  an  office,  he  being  secretary  to  the  governor  of  the  N.  W.  Territory,  Gen.  St. 
Clair,  and  performing  the  duties  of  governor  in  his  absence.  The  dwelling  houses 
occupied  a  space  from  15  to  30  feet  each,  and  were  sufficient  for  the  accommoda 
tion  of  forty  or  fifty  families,  and  did  actually  contain  from  200  to  300  persons, 
men,  women  and  children,  during  the  Indian  war. 

Before  the  Indians  commenced  hostilities,  the  block-houses  were  occupied  as  fol 
lows  : — the  south-west  one  by  the  family  of  Gov.  St  Clair ;  the  north-west  one  for 
public  worship  and  holding  of  courts.  The  south-east  block-house  was  occupied 
by  private  families ;  and  the  north-east  as  an  office  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
directors  of  the  company.  The  area  within  the  walls  was  144  feet  square,  and  af 
forded  a  fine  parade  ground.  In  the  center  was  a  well,  80  feet  in  depth,  for  the 
supply  of  water  to  the  inhabitants  in  case  of  a  siege.  A  large  sun-dial  stood  for 
many  years  in  the  square,  placed  on  a  handsome  post,  and  gave  note  of  the  march 
of  time.  It  is  still  preserved  as  a  relic  of  the  old  garrison.  After  the  war  com 
menced,  a  regular  military  corps  was  organized,  and  a  guard  constantly  kept  night 
and  day.  The  whole  establishment  formed  a  very  strong  work,  and  reflected  great 
credit  on  the  head  that  planned  it 

Ship  building,  at  Marietta,  was  carried  on  quite  extensively  at  an  early  day. 
From  the  year  1800  to  1807,  the  business  was  very  thriving.  Com.  Abm. 
Whipple,  a  veteran  of  the  Revolution,  conducted  the  one  first  built,  the  St. 
Clair,  to  the  ocean. 

At  that  time  Marietta  was  made  "a  port  of  clearance,"  from  which  vessels  could 
receive  regular  papers  for  a  foreign  country.  "This  circumstance  was  the  cause 
of  a  curious  incident,  which  took  place  in  the  year  1806  or  1807.  A  ship,  built  at 
Marietta,  cleared  from  that  port  with  a  cargo  of  pork,  flour,  etc.,  for  New  Orleans. 
From  thence  she  sailed  to  England  with  a  load  of  cotton,  and  being  chartered  to 
take  a  cargo  to  St.  Petersburg,  the  Americans  being  at  that  time  carriers  for  half 
the  world,"reached  that  port  in  safety.  Her  papers  being  examined  by  a  naval 
officer,  and  dating  from  the  port  of  Marietta,  Ohio,  she  was  seized,  upon  the  plea 
of  their  being  a  forgery,  as  no  such  port  was  known  in  the  civilized  world.  With 
considerable  difficulty  the  captain  procured  a  map  of  the  United  States,  and  point 
ing  with  his  finger  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  traced  the  course  of  that  stream 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio ;  from  thence  he  led  the  astonished  and  admiring  naval 
officer  along  the  devious  track  of  the  latter  river  to  the  port  of  Marietta,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Muskingum,  from  whence  he  had  taken  his  departure.  This  explan 
ation  was  entirely  satisfactory,  and  the  American  was  dismissed  with  every  token 
of  regard  and  respect." 

One  of  the  early  settlers  in  this  region,  gave  Mr.  Howe,  for  his  work  on 
Ohio,  the  annexed  amusing  sketch,  illustrating  pioneer  life: 

People  who  have  spent  their  lives  in  an  old  settled  country,  can  form  but  a  faint 
idea  of  the  privations  and  hardships  endured  by  the  pioneers  of  our  now  flourish 
ing  and  prosperous  state.  When  I  look  on  Ohio  as  it  is,  and  think  what  it  was  in 
1802,  when  1  first  settled  here,  I  am  struck  with  astonishment,  and  can  hardly 
credit  my  own  senses.  When  I  emigrated,  I  was  a  young  man,  without  any  prop 
erty,  trade,  or  profession,  entirely  dependent  on  my  own  industry  for  a  living.  I 
purchased  60  acres  of  new  land  on  credit,  2  1-2  miles  from  any  house  or  road,  and 
built  a  camp  of  poles,  7  by  4  feet,  and  5  feet  high,  with  three  sides  and  a  fire  in 
front.  I  furnished  myself  with  a  loaf  of  bread,  a  piece  of  pickled  pork,  some  po 
tatoes,  borrowed  a  frying  pan,  and  commenced  housekeeping.  I  was  not  hindered 
from  my  work  by  company;  for  the  first  week  I  did  not  see  a  living  soul,  but,  to 
make  amends  for  the  want  of  it,  I  had  every  night  a  most  glorious  concert  of 


OHIO.  141 

wolves  and  owls.  1  soon  (like  Adam)  saw  the  necessity  of  a  help-mate,  and  per 
suaded  a  young  woman  to  tie  her  destiny  to  mine.  I  built  a  log-house  20  feet 
square — quite  aristocratic  in  those  days — and  moved  into  it.  I  was  fortunate 
enough  to  possess  a  jack-knife;  with  that  I  made  a  wooden  knife  and  two  wooden 
forks^  which  answered  admirably  for  us  to  eat  with.  A  bedstead  was  wanted :  I 
took  two  round  poles  for  the  posts,  inserted  a  pole  in  them  for  a  side  rail,  two  other 
poles  were  inserted  for  end  pieces,  the  ends  of  which  were  put  in  the  logs  of  the 
house — some  puncheons  were  then  split  and  laid  from  the  side  rail  to  the  crevice 
between  the  logs  of  the  house,  which  formed  a  substantial  bed-cord,  on  which  we 
laid  our  straw  bed,  the  only  one  we  had— on  which  we  slept  as  soundly  and  woke  as 
happy  as  Albert  and  Victoria. 


A  Pioneer  Dwelling  in  the  Woods. 

Tn  process  of  time,  a  yard  and  a  half  of  calico  was  wanted ;  I  started  on  foot 
through  the  woods  ten  miles,  to  Marietta,  to  procure  it;  but  alas!  when  I  arrived 
there  I  found  that,  in  the  absence  of  both  money  and  credit,  the  calico  was  not  to 
be  obtained.  The  dilemma  was  a  serious  one,  and  how  to  escape  I  could  not  de 
vise  ;  but  I  had  no  sooner  informed  my  wife  of  my  failure,  than  she  suggested  that 
I  had  a  pair  of  thin  pantaloons  which  I  could  very  well  spare,  that  would  make 
quite  a  decent  frock :  the  pants  were  cut  up,  the  frock  made,  and  in  due  time,  the 
child  was  dressed. 

The  long  winter  evenings  were  rather  tedious,  and  in  order  to  make  them  pass 
more  smoothly,  by  great  exertion,  I  purchased  a  share  in  the  Belpre  library,  6  miles 
distant.  From  this  I  promised  myself  much  entertainment,  but  another  obstacle 
presented  itself — I  had  no  candles ;  however,  the  woods  afforded  plenty  of  nine 
knots — with  these  1  made  torches,  by  which  I  could  read,  though  I  nearly  spoiled 
my  eyes.  Many  a  night  have  I  passed  in  this  manner,  till  12  or  1  o'clock  reading 
to  my  wife,  while  she  was  hatcheling,  carding  or  spinning.  Time  rolled  on,  the 
payments  for  my  land  became  due,  and  money,  at  that  time,  in  Ohio,  was  a  cash 
article :  however,  1  did  not  despair.  I  bought  a  few  steers ;  some  I  bartered  for 
and  others  I  got  on  credit — my  credit  having  somewhat  improved  since  the  calico 
expedition — slung  a  knapsack  on  my  back,  and  started  alone  with  my  cattle  for  Rom- 
ney,  on  the  Potomac,  where  I  sold  them,  then  traveled  on  to  Litchfield,  Connecti 
cut,  paid  for  my  land,  and  had  just  $1  left  to  bear  my  expenses  home,  600  miles 
distant.  Before  I  returned,  I  worked  and  procured  50  cents  in  cash  ;  with  this  and 
inv  dollar  I  commenced  my  journey  homeward.  I  laid  out  my  dollar  for  cheap 
liuir  combs,  and  these,  with  a  little  Yankee  pleasantry,  kept  me  very  comfortably 
at  the  private  houses  where  I  stopped  till  I  got  to  Owego,  on  the  Susquehanna, 
where  I  had  a  power  of  attorney  to  collect  some  money  for  a  neighbor  in  Ohio. 


142  OHI°- 

At  Marietta  are  some  ancient  works,  which,  although  not  more  remarka 
ble  than  others  in  the  state,  and  not  so  extensive  as  some,  are  more  generally 
known,  from  having  been  so  frequently  described  by  travelers.  They  are  on 
an  elevated  plain,  above  the  present  bank  of  the  Muskingum,  on  the  east 
side,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  They  consist 
of  walls  and  mounds  of  earth  in  direct  lines,  and  in  square  and  circular 
forms.  The  largest  square  fort,  or  town,  contained  about  forty  acres,  en 
compassed  by  a  wall  of  earth,  from  six  to  ten  feet  high.  On  each  side  were 
three  openings,  probably  gateways.  On  the  side  next  the  Muskingum  there 
was  a  covert  way,  formed  of  two  parallel  walls  of  earth,  upward  of  200  feet 
apart,  extending  probably,  at  the  time  of  their  construction,  to  the  river. 
There  was  also  a  smaller  fort,  consisting  of  20  acres,  having  walls,  gateways 
and  mounds.  The  mound  in  the  present  graveyard  is  situated  on  the  south 
east  of  the  smaller  fort.  The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monu 
ments  in  this  yard: 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Commodore  ABRAHAM  WHIPPLE,  whose  naval  skill  and  courage 
will  ever  remain  the  pride  and  boast  of  his  country.  In  the  REVOLUTION,  he  was  the  first 
on  the  seas  to  hurl  defiance  at  proud  Britain,  gallantly  leading  the  way  to  wrest  from  the 
mistress  of  the  seas  her  scepter,  and  there  wave  the  star  spangled  banner.  He  also  con 
ducted  to  the  sea  the  first  square  rigged  vessel  ever  built  on  the  Ohio,  opening  to  commerce 
resources  beyond  calculation.  He  was  born  Sept.  26th,  A.D.  1733,  and  died  May  26th,  1819, 
aged  85  years. 

Gen.  RUFUS  PUTNAM,  died  May  4,  1824,  in  the  87th  year  of  his  age. 

Here  lies  the  body  of  his  Excellency,  RETURN  JONATHAN  MEIGS,  who  was  born  at  Mid- 
dletown,  Connecticut,  Nov.  — ,  1766,  and  died  at  Marietta,  March  29,  1825.  For  many 
years  his  time  and  talents  were  devoted  to  the  service  of  his  country.  He  successively  filled 
the  place  of  Judge  of  the  Territory  North-west  of  the  Ohio,  Senator  of  Congress  of  the 
United  States,  Governor  of  the  State,  and  Post  Master  General  of  the  United  States.  To 
the  honoured  and  revered  memory  of  an  ardent  Patriot,  a  practical  Statesman,  an  enlight 
ened  Scholar,  a  dutiful  Son,  an  indulgent  Father,  an  affectionate  Husband,  this  monument 
is  erected  by  his  mourning  widow,  Sophia  Meigs. 

In  memory  of  Doctor  SAMUEL  HILDRETH,  a  native  of  Massachusetts,  who  died  at  Belpre, 
August  6th,  A.D.  1823,  aged  73  years. 

Death  is  the  good  man's  friend — the  messenger  who  calls  him  to  his  Father's  house. 

MARTHA  BRAINERD,  daughter  of  Dr.  Joseph  Spencer,  Jr.,  and  grand-daughter  of  Maj. 
Gen.  Joseph  Spencer,  officers  in  the  army  of  the  Revolution  in  1775,  the  latter  a  member 
of  the  Continental  Congress  of  1778,  born  at  Lebanon,  Connecticut,  Jan.  18,  1782,  married 
in  Virginia  to  Stephen  Radcliff  Wilson,  May  20th,  1798,  died  at  Marietta,  Jan.  10th,  1852. 


GrALLiPOLis,  the  county  seat  of  Gallia  county,  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in 
Ohio,  is  pleasantly  situated" on  the  Ohio  River,  102  miles  south-easterly  from 
Columbus,  and  contains  about  2,800  inhabitants.  It  was  settled  in  1791,  by 
a  French  colony,  sent  out  under  the  auspices  of  the  "Scioto  Company," 
which  appears  to  have  been  in  some  way  connected  with  the  Ohio  Company. 
The  agents  of  the  Scioto  Company,  in  Paris,  were  Joel  Barlow,  of  the 
United  States  ;  Playfair,  an  Englishman  ;  and  a  Frenchman,  named  De  Sais- 
son.  A  handsome,  but  deceptive  French  map  was  engraved,  and  glowing 
representations  of  the  country  were  given,  and,  being  about  the  beginning 
of  the  French  Revolution,  the  "flattering  delusion"  took  strong  hold.  The 
terms  to  induce  emigration  were  as  follows:  The  company  proposed  to  take 
the  emigrant  to  their  lands  and  pay  the  cost,  and  the  latter  bound  himself 
to  work  three  years  for  the  company,  for  which  he  was  to  receive  fifty  acres, 


143 

a  house,  and  cow.  About  five  hundred  Frenchmen  left  their  native  country, 
debarked  mostly  at  Alexandria,  Va.,  and  made  their  way  to  the  promised 
land. 

The  location  of   Gallipolis  was  effected  just  before  the  arrival  of  the 
French.     Col.  Rufus  Putnam  sent  Maj.  Burnham,  with  about  40  men  for 


Gallipolis^  i.  e.  Town  of  the  French,  in  1791. 

that  purpose,  who  made  the  clearing,  and  erected  block-houses  and  cabins  on 
the  present  public  square.  Eighty  log  cabins  were  constructed,  20  in  each 
row.  At  each  of  the  corners  were  block-houses,  two  stories  high.  Above 
the  cabins,  on  the  square,  were  two  other  parallel  rows  of  cabins,  which,  with 
a  high  stockade  fence,  formed  a  sufficient  fortification  in  times  of  danger. 
These  upper  cabins  were  a  story  and  a  half  high,  built  of  hewed  logs,  and 
finished  in  better  style  than  those  below,  being  intended  for  the  richer  class. 
The  following  is  from  a  communication  to  the  American  Pioneer,  from  one 
of  the  colonists,  Waldeurard  Meulette: 

At  an  early  meeting  of  the  colonists,  the  town  was  named  Gallipolis  (town  of 
the  French).  I  did  not  arrive  till  nearly  all  the  colonists  were  there.  1  descended 
the  river  in  1791,  in  flat  boats,  loaded  with  troops,  commanded  by  Gen.  St.  Clair, 
destined  for  an  expedition  against  the  Indians.  Some  of  my  countrymen  joined 
that  expedition ;  among  others  was  Count  Malartie,  a  captain  in  the  French  guard 
of  Louis  XVI.  General  St.  Clair  made  him  one  of  his  aids-de-camp  in  the  battle, 
in  which  he  was  severely  wounded.  He  went  back  to  Philadelphia,  from  whence 
he  returned  to  France.  The  Indians  were  encouraged  to  greater  depredations  and 
murders,  by  their  success  in  this  expedition,  but  most  especially  against  the  Amer 
ican  settlements.  From  their  intercourse  with  the  French  in  Canada,  or  some 
other  cause,  they  seemed  less  disposed  to  trouble  us.  Immediately  after  St.  Clair' s 
defeat,  Col.  Sproat,  commandant  at  Marietta,  appointed  four  spies  for  Gallipolis — 
two  Americans  and  two  French,  of  which  I  was  one,  and  it  was  not  until  after  the 
treaty  at  Greenville,  in  1795,  that  we  were  released. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  difficulties,  the  difference  of  tempers,  education,  and 
professions,  the  inhabitants  lived  in  harmony,  and  having  little  or  nothing  to  do, 
made  themselves  agreeable  and  useful  to  each  other.  The  Americans  and  hunters, 
employed  by  the  company,  performed  the  first  labors  of  clearing  the  township, 
which  was  divided  into  lots. 

Although  the  French  were  willing  to  work,  yet  the  clearing  of  an  American 


144 


OHIO. 


wilderness  and  its  heavy  timber,  was  far  moro  than  they  could  perform.  To  mi 
grate  from  the  eastern  states  to  the  "far  west,"  is  painful  enough  now-a-days,  but 
how  much  more  so  it  must  be  for  a  citizen  of  a  large  European  town !  Even  a 
farmer  of  the  old  countries  would  find  it  very  hard,  if  not  impossible  to  clear  Jand 
in  the  wilderness.  Those  hunters  were  paid  by  the  colonists  to  prepare  their  gar 
den  ground,  which  was  to  receive  the  seeds  brought  from  France ;  few  of  the  col 
onists  knew  how  to  make  a  garden,  but  they  were  guided  by  a  few  books  on  that 
subject,  which  they  had  brought  likewise  from  France.  The  colony  then  began  to 
improve  in  its  appearance  and  comfort.  The  fresh  provisions  were  supplied  by  the 
company's  hunters,  the  others  came  from  their  magazines. 

Breckenridge,  in  his  Recollections,  gives  some  reminiscences  of  Gallipolis, 
related  in  a  style  of  charming  simplicity  and  humor.  He  was  then  a  boy  of 
nine  years  of  age : 

Behold  me  once  more  in  port,  and  domiciled  at  the  house,  or  inn,  of  Monsieur,  or 
rather,  Dr.  Saugrain,  a  cheerful,  sprightly  little  Frenchman,  four  feet  six,  English 
measure,  and  a  chemist,  natural  philosopher  and  physician,  both  in  the  English  and 
French  signification  of  the  word.  .  .  .  This  singular  village  was  settled  by  people 
from  Paris  and  Lyons,  chiefly  artisans  and  artists,  peculiarly  unfitted  to  sit  down 
in  the  wilderness  and  clear  away  forests.  1  have  seen  half  a  dozen  at  work  in 
taking  down  a  tree,  some  pulling  ropes  fastened  to  the  branches,  while  others  wero 
cutting  around  it  like  beavers.  Sometimes  serious  accidents  occurred  in  conse 
quence  of  their  awkwardness.  Their  former  employment  had  been  only  calculated 
to  administer  to  the  luxury  of  highly  polished  and  wealthy  societies.  There  were 
carvers  and  gilders  to  the  king,  coach  makers,  freizurs  and  peruke  makers,  and  a 
variety  of  others  who  might  have  found  some  employment  in  our  larger  towns,  but 
who  were  entirely  out  of  their  place  in  the  wilds  of  Ohio.  Their  means  by  this 
time  had  been  exhausted,  and  they  were  beginning  to  suffer  from  the  want  of  the 
comforts  and  even  the  necessaries  of  life.  The  country  back  from  the  river  was 
still  a  wilderness,  and  the  Gallipotians  did  not  pretend  to  cultivate  anything  more 
than  small  garden  spots,  depending  for  their  supply  of  provisions  on  the  boats 
which  now  began  to  descend  the  river;  but  they  had  to  pay  in  cash,  and  that  was 
become  scarce.  They  still  assembled  at  the  ball-room  twice  a  week;  it  was  evi 
dent,  however,  that  they  felt  disappointment,  and  were  no  longer  happy.  The  pre 
dilections  of  the  best  among  them,  being  on  the  side  of  the  Bourbons,  the  horrors 
of  the  French  revolution,  even  in  their  remote  situation,  mingled  with  their  private 
misfortunes,  which  had  at  this  time  nearly  reached  their  acme,  in  consequence  of 
the  discovery  that  they  had  no  title  to  their  lands,  having  been  cruelly  deceived  by 
those  from  whom  they  had  purchased.  It  is  well  known  that  congress  generously 
made  them  a  grant  of  twenty  thousand  acres,  from  which,  however,  but  few  of  them 
ever  derived  any  advantage. 

As  the  Ohio  was  now  more  frequented,  the  house  was  occasionally  resorted  to, 
and  especially  by  persons  looking  out  for  land  to  purchase.  The  doctor  had  a  small 
apartment  which  contained  his  chemical  apparatus,  and  I  used  to  sit  by  him  as 
often  as  I  could  watching  the  curious  operation  of  his  blow-pipe  and  crucible.  I 
loved  the  cheerfal  little  man,  and  he  became  very  fond  of  me  in  return.  Many  of 
my  countrymen  used  to  come  and  stare  at  his  doings,  which  they  were  half  inclined 
to  think  had  a  too  near  resemblance  to  the  black  art. 

The  doctor  was  a  great  favorite  with  the  Americans,  as  well  for  his  vivacity  and 
Bweetness  of  temper,  which  nothing  could  sour,  as  on  account  of  a  circumstance 
which  gave  him  high  claim  to  the  esteem  of  the  backwoodsmen.  He  had  shown 
himself,  notwithstanding  his  small  stature  and  great  good  nature,  a  very  hero  in 
combat  with  the  Indians.  He  had  descended  the  Ohio  in  company  with  two 
French  philosophers,  who  were  believers  in  the  primitive  innocence  and  goodness 
of  the  children  of  the  forest.  They  could  not  be  persuaded  that  any  danger  was  to 
be  apprehended  from  the  Indians;  as  they  had  no  intentions  to  injure  that  people, 
they  supposed  no  harm  could  be  meditated  on  their  part.  Dr.  Saugrain  was  not 
altogether  so  well  convinced  of  their  good  intentions,  and  accordingly  kept  his  pis 
tols  loaded.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  Sandy,  a  canoe  with  a  party  of  warriors  ap 
proached  the  boat;  the  philosophers  invited  them  on  board  by  signs,  when  they 


145 

came  rather  too  willingly.  The  first  thing  they  did  on  coming  on  board  of  the  boat 
was  to  salute  the  two  philosophers  with  the  tomahawk ;  and  they  would  have  treated 

the  doctor  in  the  same  way  but  that  he  used  his  pistols  with  good  effect killed  two 

of  the  savages,  and  then  leaped  into  the  water,  diving  like  a  dipper  at  the  flash  of 
the  guns  of  the  others,  and  succeeded  in  swimming  to  the  shore  with  several  severe 
wounds  whose  scars  were  conspicuous. 

The  doctor  was  married  to  an  amiable  young  woman,  but  not  possessing  as  much 
vivacity  as  himself.  As  Madam  Saugrain  had  no  maid  to  assist  her,  her  brother,  a 
boy  of  my  age,  and  myself  were  her  principal  helps  in  the  kitchen.  We  brought 
water  and  wood,  and  washed  the  dishes.  1  used  to  go  in  the  morning  about  twt) 
two  miles  for  a  little  milk,  sometimes  on  the  frozen  ground,  barefooted.  I  tried  a 
pair  of  savots,  or  wooden  shoes,  but  was  unable  to  make  any  use  of  them,  although 
they  had  been  made  by  the  carver  to  the  king.  Little  perquisites,  too,  sometimes 
fell  to  our  share  from  blacking  boots  and  shoes ;  my  companion  generally  saved 
his,  while  mine  would  have  burned  a  hole  in  my  pocket  if  it  had  remained  there. 
In  the  spring  and  summer,  a  good  deal  of  my  time  was  passed  in  the  garden,  weed 
ing  the  beds.  While  thus  engaged,  I  formed  an  acquaintance  with  a  young  lady, 
of  eighteen  or  twenty,  on  the  other  side  of  the  palings,  who  was  often  similarly  oc 
cupied.  Our  friendship,  which  was  purely  Platonic,  commenced  with  the  story  of 
Blue  Beard,  recounted  by  her,  and  with  the  novelty  and  pathos  of  which  1  was 
much  interested. 

Soon  after  Breckenridge  left  the  place,  but  in  1807  again  saw  Gallipolis: 

As  we  passed  Point  Pleasant  and  the  Island  below  it,  Gallipolis,  which  I  looked  for  with 
anxious  feelings,  hove  in  sight.  I  thought  of  the  French  inhabitants — I  thought  of  my 
friend  Saugrain.,  and  I  recalled,  in  the  liveliest  colors,  the  incidents  of  that  portion  of  my 
life  which  was  passed  here.  A  year  is  a  long  time  at  that  period — every  day  is  crowded 
with  new  and  great  and  striking  events.  When  the  boat  landed,  I  ran  up  the  bank  and 
looked  around;  but  alas!  how  changed!  The  Americans  had  taken  the  town  in  hand, 
and  no  trace  of  antiquity,  that  is,  of  twelve  years  ago,  remained.  I  hastened  to  the  spot 
where  I  expected  to  find  the  abode,  the  little  log  house,  tavern  and  laboratory  of  the  doc 
tor,  but  they  had  vanished  like  the  palace  of  Aladdin.  After  some  inquiry,  I  "found  a  little 
Frenchman,  who,  like  the  old  woman  of  Goldsmith's  village,  was  "the  sad  historian  of  the 
deserted  plain" — that  is,  deserted  by  one  race  to  be  peopled  by  another.  He  led  me  to 
where  a  few  logs  might  be  seen,  as  the  only  remains  of  the  once  happy  tenement  which  had 
sheltered  me — but  all  around  it  was  a  common;  the  town  had  taken  a  different  direction. 
My  heart  sickened;  the  picture  which  my  imagination  had  drawn — the  scenes  which  my 
memory  loved  to  cherish,  were  blotted  out  and  obliterated.  A  volume  of  reminiscences 
seemed  to  be  annihilated  in  an  instant!  I  took  a  hasty  glance  at  the  new  town  as  I  re 
turned  to  the  boat.  I  saw  brick  houses,  painted  frames,  fanciful  inclosures,  ornamental 
trees.  Even  the  pond,  which  had  carried  off  a  third  of  the  French  population  by  its  malti- 
ria,  had  disappeared,  and  a  pretty  green  had  usurped  its  place,  with  a  neat  brick  court 
house  in  the  midst  of  it.  This  was  too  much;  I  hastened  my  pace,  and  with  sorrow  once 
more  pushed  into  the  stream. 

CINCINNATI,  the  metropolis  of  Ohio,  and  capital  of  Hamilton  county,  is  on 
the  right  or  northern  bank  of  the  Ohio,  116  miles  south-west  of  Columbus, 
455,  by  the  course  of  the  river,  from  Pittsburg,  Pa.;  1,447  above  New  Or 
leans,  by  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers;  518  west  from  Baltimore,  617 
from  Philadelphia,  704  from  New  York,  655  east  from  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  492 
from  Washington  City.  Lat.  39°  &  30";  Long.  84°  27'  W.  from  Greenwich, 
or  7°  25' W.  from  Washington.  It  is  the  largest  inland  city  in  the  United 
States,  and  is  frequently  called  the  "Queen  City  of  the  West," 

Soon  after  the  first  settlement  of  Ohio  was  commenced  at  Marietta,  several 
parties  were  formed  to  occupy  and  improve  separate  portions  of  Judge 
Symmes'  purchase  between  the  Miami  Rivers.  The  first,  led  by  Maj.  Stites, 
laid  out  the  town  of  Columbia,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Miami.  The  second 
party,  about  twelve  or  fifteen  in  number,  under  Matthias  Denman  and  Robert 
Patterson,  after  much  difficulty  and  danger,  caused  by  floating  ice  in  the 
Ohio,  landed  on  its  north  bank,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Licking,  Dec.  24, 
10 


146 


OHIO. 


1788.  Here  they  proceeded  to  lay  out  a  town,  which  they  called  Losanti- 
vtlte,  which  was  afterward  changed  to  Cincinnati.  The  original  price  paid 
by  Mr.  Denman  for  the  land  on  which  the  city  now  stands,  was,  in  value, 
about  fifteen  pence  per  acre.  A  third  party  of  adventurers,  under  the  imme 
diate  care  of  Judge  Symmes,  located  themselves  at  North  Bend. 

For  some  time  it  was  a  matter  of  doubt  which  of  the  rivals,  Columbia,  Cin 
cinnati  or  North  Bend  would  eventually  become  the  seat  of  business.  The 
garrison  for  the  defense  of  the  settlements  having  been  established  at  Cincin 
nati,  made  it  the  head-quarters  and  depot  of  the  army.  In  addition  to  this, 


Cincinnati  from  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  Ohio. 

Parts  of  Covington  and  Newport,  Ky.,  appear  on  the  right;  a,  landing,  Cincinnati;  6,  the  suburb  of 
Fulton,  up  the  Ohio,  on  the  left  of  which  is  East  Walnut  Hills,  and  through  which  passes  the  Little  Miami 
Railroad,  leading  to  the  eastern  cities  ;  c,  Mount  Adams,  on  which  is  the  Cincinnati  Observatory ;  d,  posi 
tion  of  Walnut  Hills,  three  miles  from  the  city  ;  e,  Mount  Auburn,  480  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  Ohio;  /, 
Vine-street  Hill,*  four  miles  beyond  which  are  the  elegant  country  seats  at  Clifton;  g,  valley  of  Mill -creek, 
on  which  is  Spring  Grove  Cemetery,  and  the  railroad  track  to  Dayton. 

as  soon  as  the  county  courts  of  the  territory  were  organized,  it  was  created 
the  seat  of  justice  for  Hamilton  county.  These  advantages  turned  the  scale 
in  favor  of  Cincinnati. 

At  first,  North  Bend  had  a  decided  advantage  over  it,  as  the  troops  de 
tailed  by  Gen.  Harmar  for  the  protection  of  the  Miami  settlers  were  landed 
there,  through  the  influence  of  Judge  Symmes.  It  appears,  however,  that  the 
detachment  soon  afterward  took  its  departure  for  Cincinnati.  The  tradition 
is,  that  Ensign  Luce,  the  commander  of  the  party,  while  looking  out  very 
leisurely  for  a  suitable  site  on  which  to  erect  a  block-house,  formed  an  ac 
quaintance  with  a  beautiful,  black-eyed  female,  to  whom  he  became  much 
attached.  She  was  the  wife  of  one  of  the  settlers  at  the  Bend.  Her  husband 
saw  the  danger  to  which  he  was  exposed  if  he  remained  where  he  was.  He 
therefore  resolved  at  once  to  remove  to  Cincinnati.  The  ensign  soon  fol 
lowed,  and,  as  it  appears,  being  authorized  to  make  a  selection  for  a  military 
work,  he  chose  Cincinnati  as  the  site,  and  notwithstanding  the  remonstrances 
of  Judge  Symmes,  he  removed  the  troops  and  commenced  the  erection  of  a 
block-house.  Soon  after  Maj.  Doughty  arrived  at  Cincinnati  with  troops 
from  Fort  Harmar,  and  commenced  the  erection  of  Fort  Washington.  The 


*  The  bulk  of  the  German  population  is  in  that  portion  of  the  city  between  the  base  of* 
Mt.  Auburn  and  Vine-street  Hill.  The  line  of  the  canal  to  Toledo  cuts  off  the  German  set 
tlement  from  the  south  part  of  the  city.  "Over  the  Rhine,"  i.  e.,  over  the  canal,  is,  in 
common  parlance,  the  appellation  given  to  that  quarter.  The  total  German  population  is 
estimated  at  40,000. 


OHIO.  147 

following  details  upon  the  history  of  the  place  is  extracted  from  Howe's  Hist. 
Collections  of  Ohio. 

Soon  as  the  settlers  of  Cincinnati  landed,  they  commenced  erectin<»-  three  or 
four  cabins,  the  first  of  which  was  built  on  Front,  east  of  and  near  Main- 
street.  The  lower  table  of  land  was  then  covered  with  sycamore  and  maple 
trees,  arid  the  upper  with  beech  and  oak.  Through  this  dense  forest  the 
streets  were  laid  out,  their  corners  being  marked  upon  the  trees.  This  survey 
extended  from  Eastern  Row,  now  Broadway,  to  Western  Row,  now  Central- 
avenue,  and  from  the  river  as  far  north  as  Northern  Row,  now  Seventh  street. 

In  January,  1790,  Gen.  Arthur  St.  Clair,  then  governor  of  the  north-west 
territory,  arrived  at  Cincinnati  to  organize  the  county  of  Hamilton.  In  the 
succeeding  fall,  Gen.  Harmar  marched  from  Fort  Washington  on  his  expedi 
tion  against  the  Indians  of  the  north-west.  In  the  following  year  (1791), 
the  unfortunate  army  of  St.  Clair  marched  from  the  same  place.  On  his  re 
turn,  St.  Clair  gave  Major  Zeigler  the  command  of  Fort  Washington  and  re 
paired  to  Philadelphia.  Soon  after,  the  latter  was  succeeded  by  Col.  Wil 
kinson.  This  year,  Cincinnati  had  little  increase  in  its  population.  About 
one  half  of  the  inhabitants  were  attached  to  the  army  of  St.  Clair,  and  many 
killed  in  the  defeat. 

In  1792,  about  fifty  persons  were  added  by  emigration  to  the  population  of 
Cincinnati,  and  a  house  of  worship  erected.  In  the  spring  following,  the 
troops  which  had  been  recruited  for  Wayne's  army  landed  at  Cincinnati  and 
encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river  between  the  village  of  Cincinnati  and 
Mill-creek.  To  that  encampment  Wayne  gave  the  name  of  "Hobson's  choice," 
it  being  the  only  suitable  place  for  that  object.  Here  he  remained  several 
months,  constantly  drilling  his  troops,  and  then  moved  on  to  a  spot  now  in 
Darke  county,  where  he  erected  Fort  Greenville.  In  the  fall,  after  the  army 
had  left,  the  small-pox  broke  out  in  the  garrison  at  Fort  Washington,  and 
spread  with  so  much  malignity  that  nearly  one  third  of  the  soldiers  and  citi 
zens  fell  victims.  In  July,  1794,  the  army  left  Fort  Greenville,  and  on  the 
20th  of  August  defeated  the  enemy  at  the  battle  of  the  "Fallen  Timbers,"  in 
what  is  now  Lucas  county,  a  few  miles  above  Toledo.  Judge  Burnet  thus 
describes  Cincinnati  at  about  this  period : 

Prior  to  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  which  established  a  permanent  peace  between 
the  United  States  and  the  Indians,  but  few  improvements  had  been  made  of  any 
description,  and  scarcely  one  of  a  permanent  character.  In  Cincinnati,  Fort  Wash 
ington  was  the  most  remarkable  object  That  rude,  but  highly  interesting  struc 
ture  stood  between  Third  and  Fourth  streets,  produced  east  of  Eastern  Row,  now 
Broadway,  which  was  then  a  two  pole  alley,  and  was  the  eastern  boundary  of  the 
town,  as  originally  laid  out  It  was  composed  of  a  number  of  strongly  built,  hewed 
log  cabins,  a  story  and  a  half  high,  calculated  for  soldiers'  barracks.  Some  of  them, 
more  conveniently  arranged,  and  better  finished,  were  intended  for  officers'  quar 
ters.  They  were  so  placed  as  to  form  a  hollow  square  of  about  an  acre  of  ground, 
with  a  strong  block-house  at  each  angle.  It  was  built  of  large  logs,  cut  from  the 
ground  on  which  it  stood,  which  was  a  tract  of  fifteen  acres,  reserved  by  congress 
in  the  law  of  1792,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  garrison. 

The  artificers'  yard  was  an  appendage  to  the  fort,  and  stood  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  immediately  in  front  It  contained  about  two  acres  of  ground,  inclosed  by 
small  contiguous  buildings,  occupied  as  work-shops  and  quarters  for  laborers. 
Within  the  inclosure;  there  was  a  large  two  story  frame  house,  familiarly  called 
the  "yellow  house,"  built  for  the  accommodation  of  the  quartermaster  general, 
which  was  the  most  commodious  and  best  finished  edifice  in  Cincinnati. 

On  the  north  side  of  Fourth-street,  immediately  behind  the  fort,  Col.  Sargeant, 
secretary  of  the  territory,  had  a  convenient  frame  house,  and  a  spacious  garden 
cultivated  with  care  and  taste.  On  the  east  side  of  the  fort,  Dr.  Allison,  the  sur 


148  OHIO. 

gec/n  general  of  the  army,  had  a  plain  frame  dwelling,  in  the  center  of  a  large  lot 
cultivated  as  a  garden  and  fruiterv,  which  was  called  Peach  Grove.  The  Pres 
byterian  Church,  an  interesting  edifice,  stood  on  Main-street,  in  front  of  the  spa 
cious  brick  building  now  occupied  by  the  First  Presbyterian  congregation.  It  was 
a  substantial  frame  building,  about  40  feet  by  30,  inclosed  with  clapboards,  but 
neither  lathed,  plastered  nor  ceiled.  The  floor  was  of  boat  plank,  resting  on 
wooden  blocks.  In  that  humble  edifice  the  pioneers  and  their  families  assembled, 
statedly,  for  public  worship;  and,  during  the  continuance  of  the  war,  they  always 
attended  with  loaded  rifles  by  their  sides.  That  building  was  afterward  neatly 
finished,  and  some  years  subsequently  (1814)  was  sold  and  removed  to  Vine-street. 
On  the  north  side  of  Fourth-street,  opposite  where  St.  Paul's  Church  now  stands, 
there  stood  a  frame  school-house,  inclosed,  but  unfinished,  in  which  the  children 
of  the  village  were  instructed.  On  the  north  side  of  the  public  square,  there  waa 
a  strong  log  building,  erected  and  occupied  as  a  jail.  A  room  in  the  tavern  of 
George  Avery,  near  the  frog-pond,  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Fifth-streets,  had 


The  First  Church  built  in  Cincinnati* 

been  rented  for  the  accommodation  of  the  courts;  and  as  the  penitentiary  system 
had  not  been  adopted,  and  Cincinnati  was  a  seat  of  justice,  it  was  ornamented  with 
a  pillory,  stocks  and  whipping-post,  and  occasionally  with  a  gallows.  These  were 
all  the  structures  of  a  public  character  then  in  the  place.  Add  to  these  the  cabins 
and  other  temporary  buildings  for  the  shelter  of  the  inhabitants,  and  it  will  com 
plete  the  schedule  of  the  improvements  of  Cincinnati  at  the  time  of  the  treaty  of 
Greenville. 

It  may  assist  the  reader  in  forming  something  like  a  correct  idea  of  the  appear 
ance  of  Cincinnati,  and  of  what  it  actually  was  at  that  time,  to  know  that  at  the 

#The  engraving  represents  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  as  it  appeared  in  February, 
1847,  and  is  engraved  from  a  drawing  then  taken  by  Mr.  Howe  for  his  "Historical  Collec 
tions  of  Ohio."  It  stood  on  the  west  side  of  Tine,  just  north  of  Fourth-street,  on  the  spot 
now  occupied  by  the  Summer  Garden.  Its  original  site  was  on  the  spot  now  occupied 
by  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  on  Fourth-street.  In  the  following  spring,  it  was  taken 
down,  and  the  materials  used  for  the  construction  of  several  dwellings  in  the  part  of  Cincin 
nati  called  Texas.  The  greater  proportion  of  the  timber  was  found  to  be  perfectly  sound. 
In  1791,  a  number  of  the  inhabitants  formed  themselves  into  a  company,  to  escort  the  Rev. 
•lames  Kemper  from  beyond  the  Kentucky  River  to  Cincinnati;  and  after  his  arrival,  a 
subscription  was  set  on  foot  to  build  this  church,  which  was  erected  in  1792.  This  sub 
scription  paper  is  still  in  existence,  and  bears  date  January  16,  1792.  Among  its  signers 
were  Gen.  Wilkinson,  Captains  Ford,  Peters  and  Shaylor,  of  the  regular  service,  Dr.  Alli 
son,  surgeon  to  St.  Clair  and  Wayne,  Winthrop  Sargeant,  Capt.  Robert  Elliott  and  others 
principally  citizens,  to  the  number  of  106,  not  one  of  whom  survive. 


OHIO. 


149 


intersection  of  Main  and  Fifth-streets  there  was  a  pond  of  water,  full  of  aldei 
bushes,  from  which  the  frogs  serenaded  the  neighborhood  during  the  summer 
and  fall,  and  which  rendered  it  necessary  to  construct  a  causeway  of  logs,  to  pass 
it.  That  morass  remained  in  its  natural  state,  with  its  alders  and  its  frogs'  several 
years  after  Mr.  B.  became  a  resident  of  the  place,  the  population  of  which,'  includ 
ing  the  garrison  and  followers  of  the  army,  was  about  six  hundred.  The  fort  was 
then  commanded  by  William  H.  Harrison,  a  captain  hi  the  army,  but  afterward 
president  of  the  United  States.  In  1797,  Gen.  Wilkinson,  the  commander-in-chief 
of  the  army,  made  it  his  head-quarters  for  a  few  months,  but  did  not,  apparently, 
interfere  with  the  command  of  Capt.  Harrison,  which  continued  till  his  resignation 
in  1798. 

During  the  period  now  spoken  of,  the  settlements  of  the  territory,  including  Cin 
cinnati,  contained  but  few  individuals,  and  still  fewer  families,  who  had  been  ac 
customed  to  mingle  in  the  circles  of  polished  society.  That  fact  put  it  in  the  power 
of  the  military  to  give  character  to  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people.  Such 


5z^-^>--,  .  -1"   _  ~^-  ~r  < 


Cincinnati  in  1802.     Population  about  800. 

The  engraving  is  from  a  drawing  made  by  Wm.  Bucknall,  Esq.,  now  of  London,  England.  The  principal 
part  of  the  village  was  upon  the  landing.  Fort  Washington  (shown  by  the  flag)  was  the  most  conspicuous 
object  then  in  Cincinnati.  Its  site  was  on  the  south  side  of  Third-street,  just  west  of  Broadway,  or,  aa 
it  was  early  called,  Eastern  Row. 

a  school,  it  must  be  admitted,  was  by  no  means  calculated  to  make  the  most  favor 
able  impression  on  the  morals  and  sobriety  of  any  community,  as  was  abundantly 
proven  by  the  result. 

Idleness,  drinking  and  gambling  prevailed  in  the  army  to  a  greater  extent  than  it  has 
done  to  any  subsequent  period.  This  may  be  attributed  to  the  fact  that  they  had  been 
several  years  in  the  wilderness,  cut  off  from  all  society  but  their  own,  with  but  few 
comforts  or  conveniences  at  hand,  and  no  amusements  but  such  as  their  own  inge 
nuity  could  invent.  Libraries  were  not  to  be  found — men  of  literary  minds,  or 
polished  manners,  were  rarely  met  with;  and  they  had  long  been  deprived  of  the 
advantage  of  modest,  accomplished  female  society,  which  always  produces  a  salu 
tary  influence  on  the  feelings  and  moral  habits  of  men.  Thus  situated,  the  officers 
were  urged,  by  an  irresistible  impulse,  to  tax  their  wits  for  expedients  to  fill  up  the 
chasms  of  leisure  which  were  left  on  their  hands,  after  a  full  discharge  of  their  mil- 
tary  duties ;  and,  as  is  too  frequently  the  case,  in  such  circumstances,  the  bottle, 
the  dice-box  and  the  card-table  were  among  the  expedients  resorted  to,  because 
they  were  the  nearest  at  hand,  and  the  most  easily  procured. 

It  is  a  distressing  fact  that  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  officers  under  General 
Wayne,  and  subsequently  under  Gen.  Wilkinson,  were  hard  drinkers.  ^  Harrison, 
Clark,  Shouiberg,  Ford,  Strong,  and  a  few  others,  were  the  only  exceptions.  Such 
were  the  habits  of  the  army  when  they  began  to  associate  with  the  inhabitants  of 
Cincinnati,  and  of  the  western  settlements  generally,  and  to  give  tone  to  public 
sentiment.  As  a  natural  consequence,  the  citizens  indulged  in  the  same  practices 


150  OHIO. 

and  formed  the  same  habits.  As  a  proof  of  this,  it  may  be  stated  that  when  &fr. 
Burnet  came  to  the  bar,  there  were  nine  resident  lawyers  engaged  in  the  practice, 
of  whom  he  is  and  has  been  for  many  years  the  only  survivor.  They  all  became 
confirmed  sots,  and  descended  to  premature  graves,  excepting  his  brother,  who  was 
a  young  man  of  high  promise,  but  whose  life  was  terminated  by  a  rapid  consump 
tion,  in  the  summer  of  1801.  He  expired  under  the  shade  of  a  tree,  by  the  side 
of  the  road,  on  the  banks  of  Paint  creek,  a  few  miles  from  Chillicothe. 

On  the  9th  of  November,  1793,  Win.  Maxwell  established,  at  Cincinnati,  "the 
Centinel  of  the  North- Western  Territory,"  with  the  motto,  "open  to  all  parties — 
influenced  by  none."  It  was  on  a  half  sheet,  royal  quarto  size,  and  was  the  first 
newspaper  printed  north  of  the  Ohio  River.  In  1796,  Edward  Freeman  became 
the  owner  of  the  paper,  which  he  changed  to  "Freeman's  Journal,"  which  he  con 
tinued  until  the  beginning  of  1800,  when  he  removed  to  Chillicothe.  On  the  28th 
of  May,  1799,  Joseph  Carpenter  issued  the  first  number  of  a  weekly  paper,  entitled 
the  "Western  Spy  and  Hamilton  Gazette."  On  the  llth  of  January,  1794,  two 
keel  boats  sailed  from  Cincinnati  to  Pittsburgh,  each  making  a  trip  once  in  four 
weeks.  Each  boat  was  so  covered  as  to  be  protected  against  rifle  and  musket  balls, 
and  had  port  holes  to  fire  out  at,  and  was  provided  with  six  pieces,  carrying  pound 
balls,  a  number  of  muskets  and  ammunition,  as  a  protection  against  the  Indians 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio.  In  1801,  the  first  sea  vessel  equipped  for  sea,  of  100 
tuns,  built  at  Marietta,  passed  down  the  Ohio,  carrying  produce;  and  the  banks  of 
the  river  at  Cincinnati  were  crowded  with  spectators  to  witness  this  novel  event 
Dec.  19,  1801,  the  territorial  legislature  passed  a  bill  removing  the  seat  of  gov 
ernment  from  Chillioothe  to  Cincinnati. 

January  2,  1802,  the  territorial  legislature  incorporated  the  town  of  Cincinnati, 
and  the  following  officers  were  appointed:  David  Zeigler,  president;  Jacob  Burnet, 
recorder;  Wm.  Ramsay,  David  E.  Wade,  Chas.  Avery,  John  Reily,  Wm.  Stanley, 
Samuel  Dick,  and  Wm.  Ruffner,  trustees;  Jo.  Prince,  assessor;  Abram  Cary,  col 
lector;  and  James  Smith,  town  marshal.  In  1795,  the  town  contained  94  cabins, 
10  frame  houses,  and  about  500  inhabitants. 


Cincinnati  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley  of  about  12  miles  in  circumfer 
ence,  surrounded  by  hills,  which  rise  to  the  hight-of  about  500  feet.  This 
valley  is  divided  nearly  in  the  center  by  the  Ohio  River.  On  the  Kentucky 
'  side  of  the  Ohio,  the  towns  of  Covington  and  Newport  are  situated  in  it,  and 
it  is  there  pierced  by  the  smaller  valley  of  the  Licking  River,  running  south 
erly.  On  the  Ohio  side  the  valley  is  also  pierced,  below  the  settled  part  of 
Cincinnati,  by  the  valley  of  Mill  creek,  running  northerly.  Cincinnati  is 
laid  out  with  considerable  regard  to  regularity ;  the  streets  in  the  center  of 
the  city  being  broad,  and  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles.  Many  of 
the  hills  surrounding  the  city  are  adorned  by  stately  and  elegant  mansions, 
with  ornamental  grounds  attached;  while  some  of  them  are  yet  covered  with 
groves  of  ancient  forest  trees. 

The  greater  part  of  the  city  is  built  on  two  terraces,  or  plains,  sometimes 
called  "bottoms,"  of  which  the  first  is  about  50,  and  the  second  108  feet 
above  low  water  mark.  These  elevations,  in  grading,  have  been  reduced 
more  nearly  to  a  gradual  ascent  of  from  5  to  10  degrees  from  the  river. 
The  city  extends  more  than  three  miles  along  the  river.  The  central  por 
tions  are  compactly  and  handsomely  built,  with  streets  about  66  feet  wide, 
bordered  with  spacious  warehouses,  stores,  etc.,  many  of  which  are  magnifi 
cent  structures,  of  beautiful  brown  freestone,  rising  to  the  hight  of  6  stories, 
and  with  fronts  of  elaborate  architecture.  Main-street  extends  from  the 
steamboat  landing,  in  a  northerly  direction,  and  Broadway,  Sycamore,  Wal 
nut,  Vine,  Race,  Elm,  and  Plum-streets,  are  parallel  to  it.  It  is  intersected 
at  right  angles  by  14  principal  streets,  named  Water,  First.  Second,  Thirdj 
etc.  An  open  area  upon  the  bank  of  the  river,  with  about  1,000  feet  front,  east 


OHIO.  151 

from  the  foot  of  Main-street,  embracing  some  10  acres,  is  reserved  for  the  land 
ing,  and  usually  presents  a  scene  of  great  activity.  The  shore  is  paved  with 
stone  from  low  water  mark  to  the  top  of  the  first  bank,  and  furnished  with 


View  on  Fourth  street,  Cincinnati. 

The  first  building  on  the  left  is  the  iron  front  clothing  store  of  Sprague  <fc  Co.  The  Poet  Office  and  Cus 
tom  House  are  in  the  structure  with  the  Grecian  front.  Mitchell  &  Rammelsburg's  Furniture  Warerooaia, 
Shillito's  Dry  Goods'  establishment,  and  tower  of  the  Unitarian  Church,  appear  beyond. 

floating  wharves,  which  accommodate  themselves  to  the  great  variation  in 
die  hight  of  the  river.     From  60  to  80   steamboats  are  often  seen  here  at 
once,  presenting  a  scene  of  animation  and  business  life. 
*  The  Ohio  River,  at  Cincinnati,  is  1,800  feet,  or  about  one  third  of  a  mile, 


152  OHIO. 

wide,  and  its  mean  annual  range  from  low  to  high  water  is  about  50  feet : 
the  extreme  range  may  be  10  feet  more.  The  water  is  at  its  lowest  point  of 
depression  usually  in  August,  September  and  October,  and  the  greatest  rise, 
in  December,  March,  May  and  June.  Its  current,  at  its  mean  hight,  is  three 
miles  an  hour;  when  higher,  or  rising,  it  is  more,  and  when  very  low  it  does 
not  exceed  two  miles.  The  navigation  of  the  river  is  rarely  suspended  by 
ice.  The  city  is  supplied  with  water  raised  from  the  Ohio  by  steam  power, 
capable  of  forcing  into  the  reservoir  5,000,000  gallons  of  water  each  twelve 
hours.  The  reservoir  is  elevated  about  200  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  Ohio, 
and  is  estimated  to  contain  5,000,000  gallons. 

In  point  of  commercial  importance,  Cincinnati  occupies  a  front  rank  in 
the  west.  By  means  of  the  numerous  steamers  which  are  constantly  plying 
to  and  fro  on  the  bosom  of  the  majestic  river,  which  rolls  gracefully  on  the 
south  of  the  city,  and  the  several  canals  and  railroads  which  enter  here, 
Cincinnati  is  connected  with  every  available  point  of  importance  in  the 
great  and  highly  productive  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  The  trade  is  not, 
however,  confined  to  the  interior :  and  a  vast  amount  of  foreign  importation 
and  exportation  is  done.  The  pork  business  is  carried  on  more  extensively 
here  than  at  any  other  place  in  the  world. 

Manufacturing  is  entered  into  here  with  great  energy,  and  employs  a  vast 
amount  of  capital.  Numerous  mills  and  factories  are  in  operation,  besides 
founderies,  planing  mills,  rolling  mills,  saw  mills,  rolling  mills,  flouring  mills, 
type  founderies,  machine  shops,  distilleries,  etc.  Nearly  all  kinds  of  ma 
chinery  is  driven  by  steam,  and  there  are  now  about  300  steam  engines  in 
operation  in  the  city.  Steamboat  building  is  an  extensive  and  important 
business  here.  Among  the  most  important  branches  of  manufacture  is  that 
of  iron  castings,  implements  and  machinery  of  various  kinds,  as  steam  en 
gines,  sugar  mills,  stoves,  etc.,  some  of  the  establishments  employing  hun 
dreds  of  hands.  The  manufacture  of  clothing  is  also  a  great  interest;  and 
in  the  extent  of  the  manufacture  of  furniture,  the  factories  surpass  any  others 
in  the  Union.  Cincinnati  is  also  the  most  extensive  book  publishing  mart 
in  the  west.  The  total  value  of  the  product  of  the  manufacturing  and  in 
dustrial  pursuits  of  Cincinnati,  for  1859,  was  ascertained  by  Mr.  Cist  to  sum 
up  more  than  one  hundred  and  twelve  millions  of  dollars.  Among  the 
heaviest  items  were,  ready  made  clothing  15  millions ;  iron  castings,  6J 
millions;  total  iron  products,  13  millions;  pork  and  beef  packing,  6J  mU- 
lions;  candles  and  lard  oil,  6  millions;  whisky,  5J-  millions;  furniture,  3§ 
millions;  domestic  liquors,  3^  millions;  publications,  newspapers,  books,  etc., 
2$  millions;  and  patent  medicines,  2  millions. 

Cincinnati  was  the  first  city  in  the  world  to  adopt  the  steam  fire  engine. 
The  machine  used  is  of  Cincinnati  invention,  by  Abel  Shawk.  The  fire  de 
partment  is  under  pay  of  the  city.  It  is  admirably  conducted,  and  so  efficient 
that  a  serious  conflagration  is  very  rare.  The  huge  machines,  when  on  their 
way  to  a  fire,  are  drawn  through  the  streets  by  four  powerful  horses  moving 
at  full  gallop,  and  belching  forth  flames  and  smoke,  form  an  imposing  spec 
tacle. 

Cincinnati  has  the  first  Observatory  built  on  the  globe  by  the  contribu 
tions  of  "the  people."  It  is  a  substantial  stone  building,  on  the  hill  east  of 
the  city,  500  feet  above  the  Ohio,  named  Mt.  Adams,  from  John  Quincy 
Admins,  who  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the  structure,  Nov.  9,  1843.  The  tel- 
ocope  is  of  German  manufacture;  it  is  an  excellent  instrument,  and  cost 
about  $10,000. 


OHIO. 


153 


The  public  buildings  of  Cincinnati  are  numerous,  and  some  of  them  of 
beautiful  architecture.  The  Mechanics'  Institute  is  a  substantial  building, 
erected  by  voluntary  subscription.  The  Ohio  School  Library  and  that  of  the 
Mechanics'  Institute  are  merged  in  one,  which  is  free  to  the  public :  it  has 


Pikes   Opera  House. 

The  Eagle  on  the  summit  is  perched  110  feet  above  the  pavement.  The  Opera  room  is  about  100  feet 
each  way,  and  from  the  floor  of  the  Parquette  to  the  crown  of  the  dome  is  82  feet ;  it  has  throe  tier  of 
boxes,  and  a  seating  capacity  of  nearly  3,000  persons. 

24, 000. volumes.  The  Catholic  Institute,  which  adjoins  it,  is  an  elegant  and 
capacious  structure  with  a  front  of  freestone.  The  Cincinnati  College  edifice 
is  a  large  building  of  compact  gray  limestone.  In  it  are  the  rooms  of  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  and  the  Young  Mens'  Mercantile  Library  Association. 
This  association  has  2,500  members,  and  a  library  of  20,000  volumes,  beside 
all  the  principal  American  and  foreign  periodicals.  The  Masonic  Temple, 
corner  of  Third  and  Walnut,  cost  about  $150,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  imposing  buildings  in  the  Union.  The  material  is  a  light  free 
stone,  and  the  style  Byzantine.  The  County  Court  House  is  the  largest 
building  in  the  city.  It  cost  more  than  a  million  of  dollars:  its  front  is  of 
gray  limestone,  and  the  whole  structure  is  of  the  most  durable  character. 
Among  the  theaters  of  the  city,  Pike's  Opera  House,  for  the  beauty  and  ex 
quisite  taste  shown  in  its  construction,  has  a  national  reputation.  It  cost 
with  the  ground,  nearly  half  a  million  of  dollars:  its  magnificent  opera  hall 
is  justly  the  pride  of  the  citizens.  Among  the  110  churches  of  the  city, 
the  Catholic  Cathedral,  on  Eighth-street,  is  the  most  imposing.  It  is  200 
feet  long  and  80  feet  wide,  with  a  spire  rising  to  the  hight  of  250  feet,  and 
cost  about  $100,000. 

Cincinnati  has  its  full  share  of  literary  and  benevolent  institutions.     It 
has  5  medical  and  4  commercial  colleges,  the  Wesleyan  Efemale,  and  also  St. 


154  OHIO. 

Xavier  Colleges.  The  common  school  system  is  on  the  principle  now  in 
vogue,  of  graded  schools.  The  scholars  are  divided  into  three  classes — the 
common,  intermediate  and  high  schools.  And  these,  in  turn,  are  graded,  one 
year  being  given  to  each  grade.  A  child  is  taken  at  six  years  of  age,  and  at 
eighteen  graduates  at  the  high  school,  with  an  education  based  on  the  com 
mon  branches,  and  completed  with  some  of  the  languages  and  higher 
branches  of  science.* 

Cincinnati  is  the  center  of  many  extensive  railway  lines,  running  north, 
east,  south  and  west,  and  also  the  terminus  of  the  Miami  Canal,  extending 
to  Lake  Erie  and  Toledo,  and  the  Whitewater  Canal,  penetrating  the  heart 
of  Indiana.  Population,  in  1800,  759;  in  1810,  2,540;  in  1820,  9,602; 
1830,24,831;  1840,  46,338;  1850,  118,761;  in  1860,  171,293;  the  suburbs, 
Covington  and  Newport,  would  increase  this  to  about  200,000. 

Cincinnati  is  noted  for  the  successful  manufacture  of  wine  from  native 
grapes,  particularly  the  Catawba.  The  establishment  of  this  branch  of  in 
dustry  is  due  to  the  unremitting  exertions  of  Mr.  Nicholas  Longworth,  a 
resident  of  Cincinnati  for  more  than  half  a  century. 

Prior  to  this,  the  manufacture  of  American  wine  had  been  tried  in  an 
experimental  way,  but  it  had  failed  as  a  business  investment.  Learning  that 
wine  could  be  made  from  the  Catawba  grape,  a  variety  originating  in  North 
Carolina,  Mr.  Longworth  entered  systematically  into  its  cultivation,  and  to 
encourage  the  establishment  of  numerous  vineyards,  he  offered  a  market  on 
his  own  premises  for  all  the  must  (juice),  that  might  be  brought  him,  with 
out  reference  to  the  quantity. 

;'At  the  same  time  he  offered  a  reward  of  five  hundred  dollars  to  whoever  should 
discover  a  better  variety.  It  proved  a  great  stimulus  to  the  growth  of  the  Catawba 
vine  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cincinnati,  to  know  that  a  man  of  Mr.  Longworth' s 
means  stood  ready  to  pay  cash,  at  the  rate  of  from  a  dollar  to  a  dollar  and  a  quar 
ter  a  gallon,  for  all  the  grape  juice  that  might  be  brought  to  him,  without  reference 
to  the  quantity.  It  was  in  this  way,  and  by  urgent  popular  appeals  through  the 
columns  of  the  newspapers,  that  he  succeeded,  after  many  failures,  and  against  the 
depressing  influence  of  much  doubt  and  indifference,  in  bringing  the  enterprise  up 

*The  forcing  system  prevails  in  the  graded  schools  of  our  large  cities  to  an  alarming  ex 
tent.  It  would  ?eem  as  if,  in  the  opinion  of  those  who  control  these*  institutions,  Provi 
dence  had  neglected  to  make  the  days  of  sufficient  length,  for  children  to  obtain  an  educa 
tion.  In  some  of  our  large  cities,  doubtless  many  children  can  be  found,  on  any  winter 
night,  between  the  late  hours  of  8  and  10,  bu*y  pouring  over  their  books — a  necessity  re 
quired  for  a  respectable  scholarship.  Many,  if  the  writer  can  believe  alike  teachers  and 
parents,  break  down  under  the  system.  Others,  doubtless,  are  to  reap  bitter  fruits  in  after 
life,  in  long  years  of  suffering,  if,  more  happily,  they  fail  to  fill  premature  graves! 

H.  H.  Barney,  Esq.,  formerly  superintendent  of  the  public  schools  of  Ohio,  himself  with 
thirty-two  years  of  experience  as  a  teacher,  thus  expresses  his  views  on  this  subject : 

"  This  ill-judged  system  of  education  has  proved,  in  numerous  instances,  fatal  to  the 
health  of  the  inmates  of  our  public  schools,  exhausting  their  physical  energies,  irritating 
their  nerves,  depressing  and  crushing,  to  a  great  extent,  that  elasticity  of  spirit,  vigor  of 
body,  and  pleasantness  of  pursuit,  which  are  essential  to  the  highest  success  in  education 
as  well  as  in  every  other  occupation. 

Parents,  guardians,  physicians,  and  sensible  men  and  women  everywhere,  bear  testimony 
against  a  system  of  education  which  ignores  the  health,  the  happiness,  and,  in  some  cases, 
even  the  life  of  the  pupil.  Yet  this  absurd,  cruel  system  is  still  persevered  in,  and  will 
continue  to  be,  so  long  as  our  public  schools  are  mainly  filled  with  the  children  of  the 
poorer  and  humbler  classes  of  society,  and  so  long  as  the  course  of  study  and  number  of 
atudy  hours  are  regulated  and  determined  by  those  who  have  had  little  or  no  experience  in 
the  education  or  bringing  up  of  children,  or  who,  by  educating  their  own  offspring,  at  home 
or  in  private  schools,  have,  in  a  measure,  shielded  them  from  the  evils  of  this  stern,  rigor 
ous,  unnatural  system  of  educating  the  intellect  at  the  expense  of  the  body,  the  affections, 
the  disposition,  and  the  present  as  well  as  life  long  welfare  of  the  pupil." 


OHIO. 


155 


to  its  present  high  and  stable  position.  When  he  took  the  matter  in  hand  there 
was  much  to  discourage  any  one  not  possessed  of  the  traits  of  constancy  of  pur 
pose  and  perseverance  peculiar  to  Mr.  Longworth.  Many  had  tried  the  manufac 
ture  of  wine,  and  had  failed  to  give  it  any  economical  or  commercial  importance. 


Longworth's  Vineyard. 

Situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  four  miles  above  Cincinnati. 

It  was  not  believed,  until  Mr.  Longworth  practically  demonstrated  it,  after  many 
long  and  patient  trials  of  many  valued  varieties  from  France  and  Madeira,  none 
of  which  gave  any  promise  of  success,  that  a  native  grape  was  the  only  one  upon 
which  any  hope  could  be  placed,  and  that  of  the  native  grapes,  of  which  he  had 
experimented  upon  every  known  variety,  the  Catawba  offered  the  most  assured 
promise  of  success,  and  was  the  one  upon  which  all  vine-growers  might  with  con 
fidence  depend.  It  took  years  of  unremitted  care,  multiplied  and  wide-spread  in 
vestigations,  and  the  expenditure  of  large  sums  of  money,  to  establish  this  fact, 
and  bring  the  agricultural  community  to  accept  it  and  act  under  its  guidance. 
The  success  attained  by  Mr.  Longworth*  soon  induced  other  gentlemen  resident 
in  the  vicinity  of  Cincinnati,  and  favorably  situated  for  the  purpose,  to  undertake 
the  culture  of  the  Catawba,  and  several  of  them  are  now  regularly  and  extensively 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  wine.  The  impetus  and  encouragement  thus  given 
to  the  business  soon  led  the  German  citizens  of  Hamilton  county  to  perceive  its 
advantages,  and  under  their  thrifty  management  thousands  of  acres,  stretching  up 
from  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  are  now  covered  with  luxuriant  and  profitable  vine 
yards,  rivaling  in  profusion  and  beauty  the  vine  clad  hills  of  Italy  and  France. 
The  oldest  vineyard  in  the  county  of  Hamilton  is  of  Mr.  Longworth's  planting. 
The  annual  product  of  these  vineyards  may  be  set  down  at  between  five  and  six 
hundred  thousand  gallons,  worth  at  present  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  dollars  a 
gallon  ;  but  the  price,  owing  to  the  rapidity  of  the  consumption,  will  probably  ad- 


*"  Mr.  Longworth  was  always  curious  after  new  and  interesting  things  of  Nature's  pro 
ducing.  It  was  the  remark  of  an  old  citizen  of  Cincinnati,  that,  if  Mr.  Longworth  was  to 
be  suddenly  thrown,  neck  and  heels,  into  the  Ohio  River,  he  would  come  to  the  surface  with 
a  new  variety  of  fish  in  each  hand.  His  chief  interest  in  horticultural  matters,  however, 
has  been  expended  upon  the  strawberry  and  the  grape.  The  perfection  of  variety  and  cul 
ture  to  which  he  has,  by  his  experiments  and  labors,  brought  these  two  important  fruits  of 
the  country,  have  established  their  extensive  and  systematic  cultivation  in  all  parts  of  the 


156  OHIO. 

vance  rather  than  decline.  It  is  the  prophecy  of  Mr.  Flag";,  Mr.  Longworth' s  son- 
in-law,  the  gentleman  Avho  has  charge  of  the  commercial  department  of  his  wine 
business,  that,  in  the  course  of  comparatively  few  years,  the  annual  product  of 
the  Sparkling  Catawba  will  be  counted  by  millions  of  bottles,  while  that  of  the 
still  sorts  will  be  estimated  by  its  millions  of  gallons.  Mr.  Longworth  alone  bot 
tles  annually  over  150,000  bottles,  and  has  now  in  his  cellars  a  ripening  stock  of 
300,000  bottles.  These  cellars  are  situated  on  the  declivity  of  East  Sixth-street, 
on  the  road  to  Observatory  Hill.  They  occupy  a  space  ninety  feet  by  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five,  and  consist  of  two  tiers  of  massive  stone  vaults,  the  lower  of  which 
is  twenty-five  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Here  are  carried  on  all  the 
various  processes  of  wine-making,  the  mashing,  pressing,  fining,  racking,  bottling, 
labeling  and  boxing;  and  beneath  the  arches  and  along  the  walls  are  the  wine  butts, 
arranged  and  numbered  in  the  order  of  the  several  vintages ;  piles  of  bottles  stand 
about,  ready  for  the  bottlers." 

Within  the  last  few  years,  the  grape  crop  in  the  Ohio  valley  has  been 
much  injured  by  mildew  and  rot,  yet  the  crop,  thus  far,  has  been  as  reliable 
as  any  other  fruit.  The  most  certain  locality  for  the  production  of  the 
grape  in  Ohio,  is  Kelly's  Island,  in  Lake  Erie,  near  Sandusky  City,  where 
the  vines  bear  fruit  when  they  fail  in  all  other  localities.  This  is  ascribed  to 
the  uniformity  of  temperature  at  night,  during  the  summer  months,  by  which 
the  formation  of  dew  is  prevented,  and  consequently  of  mildew.  The  grape 
is  now  cultivated  in  vineyards,  for  making  wine,  in  twenty-one  states  of  the 
Union.  In  the  mountain  regions  of  Tennessee,  Georgia,  Alabama,  and  South 
Carolina,  the  increase  has  been  rapid  and  extensive.  That  district  and  Cal 
ifornia  appear  to  be  the  most  favorable  grape  producing  parts  of  the  Union. 
Long-worth's  garden  is  among  the  curiosities  of  Cincinnati,  and  was  for 
merly  greatly  visited  by  strangers.  It  is  an  inclosure  of  several  acres,  near 
the  heart  of  the  city,  and  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Adams.  The  mansion,  with  its 
art- treasures,  is  in  the  midst.  On  the  grounds  are  several  fine  conservato 
ries,  filled  with  rare  plants,  a  grape-house  for  foreign  vines,  and  experi 
mental  forcing-house,  for  new  varieties  of  strawberries  and  other  plants. 
Mr.  Longworth  died  February  10,  1863,  at  the  advanged  age  of  eighty-one. 

The  suburbs  of  Cincinnati  are  very  beautiful.  Over  on  the  hills  the  whole 
surface  of  the  country,  for  miles  and  miles  in  every  direction,  is  disposed,  in 
exquisite  undulations,  with  charming  country  seats,  scattered  here  and  there. 
The  prominent  localities  are  Walnut  Hills,  the  seat  of  Lane  Seminary,  Mt. 
Auburn,  Avondale  and  Clifton,  the  last  containing  the  most  elegant  of  rural 
seats.  Spring  Grove  Cemetery,  an  inclosure  of  168  acres,  is  four  miles  from 
Cincinnati — a  city  of  the  dead  in  a  beautiful  location,  and  where  nature  and 
art  join  their  attractions. 

North  Bend,  once  the  home  of  General  Harrison,  is  16  miles  below  the 
city,  and  four  from  the  Indiana  line,  at  the  northermost  point  of  a  bend  in  the 
Ohio  River.  This  place  derives  its  chief  interest  from  having  been  long  the 
residence  of  William  Henry  Harrison.  The  family  mansion  stood  on  a  level 
plat  about  300  yards  back  from  the  Ohio,  amid  pleasing  scenery.  It  was  de 
stroyed  by  fire  a  few  years  since.  The  engraving  on  the  following  page  is 
copied  from  a  drawing  made  in  1846  by  Mr.  Howe  for  his  work  on  Ohio. 
The  eastern  half  of  the  mansion,  that  is,  the  part  on  the  reader's  right,  from 
the  door  in  the  main  building,  was  built  of  logs.  The  whole  structure  was 
clapboarded  and  painted,  and  had  a  neat  appearance. 

This  dwelling  became  noted  in  the  presidential  campaign  of  1840,  which  re 
sulted  in  the  election  of  Gen.  Harrison  to  the  presidency — commonly  called  "the 
Hard  Cider  Campaign"  It  is  said  that  some  opponent  had  declared  in  a  public 
speech  that  he  was  unfit  for  the  office,  because  he  never  had  shown  the  ability  to 


OHIO. 


157 


raise  himself  beyond  the  occupancy  of  a  log  cabin,  in  which  he  lived  very  coarsely, 
with  no  better  beverage  than  hard  cider.  It  was  an  unfortunate  charge  for  the 
wishes  of  the  accuser.  The  taunt  of  his  being  a  poor  man,  and  living  in  a  log 
cabin,  was  seized  upon  by  the  whigs  as  an  evidence  of  his  incorruptibility  in  the 

many  responsible  stations  he  had 
held,  and  the  log  cabin  became  at 
once  the  symbol  of  the  party. 
Thousands  of  these  were  erected 
forthwith  all  over  the  land  as  ral 
lying  points  for  political  meetings. 
Miniature  cabins  were  carried  in 
political  processions,  and  in  some 
cases  barrels  labeled  "hard  cider." 


NOBTH  BEND, 
Residence  of  President  Harrison. 


Such  enthusiasm  as  was  excited 
among  the  masses  of  the  western 
pioneers  by  the  nomination  of  their 
favorite  military  leader  had  never 
before  been  exceeded.  Immense 
mass  meetings,  with  processions 
and  song  singing  became  the  order 
of  the  time.  Among  the  songs  sung 
by  assembled  multitudes  in  all 
parts  of  the  country,  the  most  p$pu- 
ular  was  one  entitled  "Tippeca- 
no*  and  Tyler  too"  in  which  occurred  these  verses: 

What  has  caused  this  great  commotion,  motion,  motion, 

Our  country  through  ? 
It  is  the  ball  that's  rolling  on 

For  Tippecanoe  and  Tyler  too, 

For  Tippecanoe  and  Tyler  too  ; 
And  with  them  we'll  beat  little  Van, 
Van,  Van,  Van,  Van  is  a  used  up  man, 
And  with  them  we'll  beat  little  Van. 

The  latch-string  hangs  outside  the  door,  door,  door, 

And  is  never  pulled  through, 
For  it  never  was  the  custom  of 

Old  Tippecanoe  and  Tyler  too, 

Old  Tippecanoe  and  Tyler  too  ; 
And  with  them  we'll  beat  little  Van, 
Van,  Van,  Van,  Van  is  a  used  up  man, 
And  with  them  we'll  beat  little  Van. 

The  tomb  of  Harrison  is  near  by,  on  a  small  oval  mound,  elevated  about  150 
feet  above  the  Ohio,  and  commanding  a  view  of  beauty.  It  is  a  plain  brick  struc 
ture,  without  inscription. 


Near  the  tomb  of  Harrison  is  the  grave  of  Judge  Symmes.  On  a  tablet  there  is 
this  inscription : 

Here  rest  the  remains  of  John  Cleves  Symmes,  who  at  the  foot  of  these  hills  made  the 
first  settlement  between  the  Miami  Rivers.  Born  at  Long  Island,  state  of  New  York,  July 
21,  A.  D.  1742;  died  at  Cincinnati,  February  26,  A.  D.  1814. 

Judge  Symmes,  before  his  removal  to  the  west,  was  a  member  of  congress  fiom 
Few  Jersey,  and  also  chief  justice  of  that  state.  Gen.  Harrison  married  his 
daughter,  who,  as  late  as  1860,  still  survived.  At  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  the  In 
dians  told  Judge  Symmes,  and  others,  that  in  the  war  they  had  frequently  brought 
ap  their  rifles  to  shoot  him,  and  then  on  recognizing  him  refused  to  pull  the  trig- 
jEjer.  This  was  in  consequence  of  his  previous  kindness  to  them,  and  spoke  volumes 
in  his  praise,  as  well  as  honor  to  the  native  instinct  of  the  savages. 


158 


OHIO. 


Three  miles  below  North  Bend,  on  the  Ohio,  was  Sugar  Camp  Settlement,  com 
posed  of  about  thirty  houses,  and  a  block-house  erected  as  a  defense  against  the 

Indians.  This  was  about  the 
time  of  the  first  settlement 
of  Cincinnati.  Until  within 
a  few  years,  this  block 
house  was  standing.  The  ad 
joining  cut  is  from  a  draw 
ing  taken  on  the  spot  in  1  846. 
We  give  it  because  it  shows 
the  ordinary  form  of  these 
structures.  Their  distin 
guishing  feature  is  that  from 
the  hightof  a  man's  shoulder 
the  building  the  rest  of  the 
way  up  projects  a  foot  or  two 
from  the  lower  part,  leaving 
at  the  point  of  junction  be 
tween  the  two  parts  a  cavity 

ANCIENT  BI.OCK-HOVSE  NEAR  NORTH  BEND.  through  which  to  thrust  rifles 

on  the  approach  of  enemies. 

Hamilton,  the  capital  of  Butler  county,  is  25  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  on 
the  Miami  Canal,  river  and  railroad  to  Dayton,  and  at  the  terminus  of  a 
railroad  to  Richmond.  A  hydraulic  canal  of  28  feet  fall  gives  excellent 
water  power,  and  there  are  now  in  operation  several  flourishing  manuiaciui- 
ing  establishments  —  paper,  flouring,  woolen,  planing  mills,  iron  foundries, 
etc.  Population  8000.  The  well  known  Miami  University  \$  12  miles  north 
west  of  Hamilton,  in  the  beautiful  town  of  Oxford. 

John  Cleves  Symmes,  the  author  of  the  "  Theory  of  Concentric  Spheres,"  demon 
strating  that  the  earth  is  hollow,  inhabited  by  human  beings,  and  widely  open  at 
the  poles,  was  a  native  of  New  Jersey,  and  a  nephew  of  Judge  Symmes.  He  re 
sided  in  the  latter  part  of  his  life  at  Hamilton,  where  he  died  in  1829,  aged  about 
50  years.  In  earty  life  he  entered  the  army  as  an  ensign.  He  was  with  Scott  in 
his  Niagara  campaign,  and  acted  with  bravery.  In  a  short  circular,  dated  at  St. 
Louis,  in  1818,  Capt.  Symmes  first  promul 
gated  the  fundamental  principles  of  his 
theory  to  the  world.  From  time  to  time, 
he  published  various  articles  in  the  pub 
lic  prints  upon  the  subject.  He  also  de 
livered  lectures,  first  at  Cincinnati  in  1820, 
and  afterward  in  various  places  in  Ken 
tucky  and  Ohio. 

"  In  the  year  1822,  Capt.  Symmes  petitioned 
the  congress  of  the  United  States,  setting 
forth,  in  the  first  place,  his  belief  of  the  ex 
istence  of  a  habitable  and  accessible  concave 
to  this  globe;  his  desire  to  embark  on  a  voy 
age  of  discovery  to  one  or  other  of  the  polar 
regions;  his  belief  in  the  great  profit  and  honor 
his  country  would  derive  from  such  a  dis 
covery;  and  prayed  that  congress  would  equip 
and  fit  out  for  the  expedition,  two  vessels, 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred 
tuns  burden;  and  grant  such  other  aid  as  srov- 
eminent  might  deem  necessary  to  promote^the 
object.  This  petition  was  presented  in  the 
senate  by  Col.  Richard  M.  Johnson,  on  the  7th  day  of  March,  1822,  when  (a  motion  to 
refer  it  to  the  committee  of  foreign  relations  having  failed),  after  a  few  remarks  it  was 
laid  on  the  table  —  Ayes,  25.  In  December,  1823,  he  forwarded  similar  petitions  to  both 
houses  of  congress,  which  met  with  a  similar  fate.  In  January  1824,  he  petitioned  the 


, 
Of 


MONUMENT  OF  j.  c.  SYMMES. 


a  ™ee  ,, 


OHIO. 


159 


general  assembly  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  praying  that  body  to  pass  a  resolution  approbatory 
of  his  theory;  and  to  recommend  him  to  congress  for  an  outfit  suitable  to  the  enterprise. 
This  memorial  was  presented  by  Micajah  T.  Williams,  and,  on  motion,  the  further  con 
sideration  thereof  was  indefinitely  postponed." 

His  theory  was  met  with  ridicule,  both  in  this  country  and  Europe,  and  became 
a  fruitful  source  of  jest  and  levity,  to  the  public  prints  of  the  day.  Notwithstand 
ing,  he  advanced  many  plausible  and  ingenious  arguments,  and  won  quite  a  num 
ber  of  converts  among  those  who  attended  his  lectures,  one  of  whom,  a  gentleman 
of  Hamilton,  wrote  a  work  in  its  support,  published  in  Cincinnati  in  1826,  in  which 
he  stated  his  readiness  to  embark  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  North  Pole,  for 
the  purpose  of  testing  its  truth.  Capt.  Symmes  met  with  the  usual  fate  of  pro 
jectors,  in  living  and  dying  in  great  pecuniary  embarrassment:  but  he  left  the 
reputation  of  an  honest  man. 


South-eastern  view  of  the  Court  House,  at  Chillicothe. 

This  beautiful  and  commodious  structure  is  in  the  central  part  of  Chillicothe ;  the  left  wing,  on  the  cor 
ner  of  Main  and  Paint-streets,  attached  to  the  main  building,  contains  the  offices  of  the  Probate  Judge, 
the  Sheriff,  and  the  Clerk  ;  the  other  wing,  those  of  the  Recorder,  Treasurer,  and  Auditor.  The  First 
Presbyterian  Church  is  seen  on  the  left. 

CHILLICOTHE  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Scioto,  on  the  line  of  the  Ohio 
Canal  and  Marietta  and  Cincinnati  Railroad,  45  miles  S.  of  Columbus,  45 
from  Portsmouth,  and  96  from  Cincinnati.  The  Scioto  curves  around  it  on 
the  north,  and  Paint  creek  flows  on  the  south.  The  site  of  the  place  is  on  a  plain 
about  30  feet  above  the  river.  It  contains  17  churches,  a  young  ladies' 
Academy  of  the  Notre  Dame,  a  flourishing  military  academy,  and  about 
9,000  inhabitants. 

The  new  court  house,  in  this  town,  is  one  of  the  best  designed,  most  beautiful, 
and  convenient  structures  of  the  kind  we  have  seen  in  our  tour  through  the 
United  States.  It  was  erected  at  an  expense  of  about  $100,000,  and  was 
designed  by  Gen.  James  Rowe,  one  of  the  county  commissioners.  A  room 
is  set  apart  in  the  court  house  for  the  preservation  of  the  relics  of  antiquity. 
Here  is  preserved  the  table  around  which  the  members  of  the  territorial 
council  sat  when  they  formed  the  laws  of  the  North  West  Territory,  of  which 
Chillicothe  was  the  capital.  Around  it  also  gathered  the  members  who 
formed  the  first  constitution  of  Ohio.  The  old  bell  which  called  them  to- 


160 


OHIO. 


OLD  STATE  HOUSE,  CHILLICOTHE. 
[Drawn  by  Henry  Howe,  in  1846.] 


gether  is  preserved,  also  the  copper  eagle,  which,  for  fifty  years,  perched  on 
the  spire  of  the  old  state  house. 

In  1800,  the  old  state  house  was  commenced  and  finished  the  next  year, 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  legislature  and  courts.  It  is  believed  that  it 

was  the  first  public  stone  edi 
fice  erected  in  the  territory. 
The  mason  work  was  done  by 
Major  Wm.  Rutledge,  a  sol 
dier  of  the  Revolution,  and 
the  carpentering  by  William 
Guthrie.  The  territorial  leg 
islature  held  their  session  in 
it  for  the  first  time  in  1801. 
The  convention  that  framed 
the  first  constitution  of  Ohio 
was  held  in  it,  the  session 
commencing  on  the  first  Mon 
day  in  November,  1802.  In 
April,  1803,  the  first  state  leg 
islature  met  in  the  house,  and 
held  their  sessions  until  1810. 
The  sessions  of  1810-11,  and 
1811-12,  were  held  at  Zanes- 
ville,  and  from  there  removed 
back  to  Chillicothe  and  held 
in  this  house  until  1816,  when 
Columbus  became  the  perma 
nent  capital  of  the  state.  This  ancient  edifice  was  standing  until  within  a 
few  years. 

In  the  war  of  1812,  Chillicothe  was  a  rendezvous  for  United  States  troops.  They 
were  stationed  at  Cainp  Bull,  a  stockade  one  mile  N.  of  the  town,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Scioto.  A  large  number  of  British  prisoners,  amounting  to  several  hundred, 
were  at  one  time  confined  at  the  camp.  On  one  occasion,  a  conspiracy  was  formed 
between  the  soldiers  and  their  officers  who  were  confined  in  jail.  The  plan  was 
for  the  privates  in  camp  to  disarm  their  guard,  proceed  to  the  jail,  release  the 
officers,  burn  the  town,  and  escape  to  Canada.  The  conspiracy  was  disclosed"  by 
two  senior  British  officers,  upon  which,  as  a  measure  of  security,  the  officers  were 
sent  to  the  penitentiary  in  Frankfort,  Ky. 

Four  deserters  were  shot  at  camp  at  one  time.  The  ceremony  was  impressive 
and  horrible.  The  soldiers  were  all  marched  out  under  arms,  with  music  playing, 
to  witness  the  death  of  their  comrades,  and  arranged  in  one  long  extended  line  in 
front  of  the  camp,  facing  the  river.  Close  by  the  river  bank,  at  considerable  dis 
tances  apart,  the  deserters  were  placed,  dressed  in  full  uniform,  with  their  coats 
buttoned  up  and  caps  drawn  over  their  faces.  They  were  confined  to  stakes  in  a 
kneeling  position  behind  their  coffins,  painted  black,  which  came  up  to  their  waists, 
exposing  the  upper  part  of  their  persons  to  the  fire  of  their  fellow-soldiers.  Two 
sections,  of  six  men  each,  were  marched  before  each  of  the  doomed.  Signals  were 
given  by  an  officer,  instead  of  words  of  command,  so  that  the  unhappy  men  should 
not  be  apprised  of  the  moment  of  their  death.  At  the  given  signal  the  first  sec 
tions  raised  their  muskets  and  poured  the  fatal  volleys  into  the  breasts  of  their 
comrades.  Three  of  the  four  dropped  dead  in  an  instant ;  but  the  fourth  sprang 
up  with  great  force,  and  gave  a  scream  of  agony.  The  reserve  section  stationed 
before  him  were  ordered  to  their  places,  and  another  volley  completely  riddled  his 
bosom.  Even  then  the  thread  of  life  seemed  hard  to  sunder. 

On  another  occasion,  an  execution  took  place  at  the  same  spot  under  most  mel 
ancholy  circumstances.  It  was  that  of  a  mere  youth  of  nineteen,  the  son  of  & 


OHIO. 


161 


widow.  In  a  frolic  he  had  wandered  several  miles  from  camp,  and  was  on  his  re 
turn  when  he  stopped  at  an  inn  by  the  way-side.  The  landlord,  a  fiend  in  human 
shape,  apprised  of  the  reward  of  $50,  offered  for  the  apprehension  of  deserters, 
persuaded  him  to  remain  over  night,  with  the  offer  of  taking  him  into  camp  in  the 
morning,  at  which  he  stated  he  had  business.  The  youth,  unsuspicious  of  any 
thing  wrong,  accepted  the  offer  made  with  such  apparent  kindness,  when  lo!  on 
his  arrival  next  day  with  the  landlord,  he  surrendered  him  as  a  deserter,  swore 
falsely  as  to  the  facts,  claimed  and  obtained  the  reward.  The  court-martial,  igno 
rant  of  the  circumstances,  condemned  him  to  death,  and  it  was  not  until  he  was  no 
more,  that  his  innocence  was  known. 


Portsmouth  from  the  Kentucky  shore  of  the  Ohio. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  the  Steamboat  Landing,  as  seen  from  Springville,  on  the  Kentucky 
side  of  the  Ohio.  The  Biggs'  House,  corner  of  Market  and  Front-streets,  appears  on  the  left,  Gaylord  & 
Co.'s  Rolling  Mill  on  the  right.  The  Scioto  River  passes  at  the  foot  of  the  mountainous  range  on  the  left. 

PORTSMOUTH,  the  capital  of  Scioto  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Ohio  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  90  miles  S.  of  Columbus,  and  110 
by  the  river  above  Cincinnati,  at  the  terminus  of  the  Erie  and  Ohio  Canal, 
and  Scioto  and  Hocking  Valley  Railroad.  It  contains  16  churches,  5  foun- 
deries,  3  rolling  mills,  3  machine  shops,  and  about  8,000  inhabitants.  The 
great  iron  region  of  the  state  lies  north  and  east  of  Portsmouth,  and  adds 
much  to  the  business  of  the  town.  Here,  on  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  Ohio, 
is  a  range  of  mountainous  hills,  averaging  500  feet  high.  Opposite  Ports 
mouth  they  rise  precipitously  to  a  hight  of  600  feet,  being  the  highest  eleva 
tion  on  the  Ohio  River,  presenting  a  very  striking  and  beautiful  appearance. 
The  Ohio  is  600  yards  wide  at  the  landing,  which  is  one  of  the  best  on  the 
river,  there  being  water  sufficient  for  the  largest  boats  at  all  seasons.  A  wire 
suspension  bridge  passes  over  the  Scioto  at  this  place. 

It  is  said  that  1J  miles  below  the  old  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  stood,  about 
the  year  1740,  a  French  fort  or  trading  station.  Prior  to  the  settlement  at 
Marietta,  an  attempt  at  settlement  was  made  at  Portsmouth,  the  history  of 
which  is  annexed  from  an  article  in  the  American  Pioneer,  by  George  Cor- 
win,  of  Portsmouth: 

In  April,  1785,  four  families  from  the  Redstone  settlement  in  Pennsylvania,  de 
scended  the  Ohio  to  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  and  there  moored  their  boat  under 
the  high  bank  where  Portsmouth  now  stands.  They  commenced  clearing  the 
11 


162  OHI° 

ground  to  plant  seeds  for  a  crop  to  support  their  families,  hoping  that  the  red  men 
of  the  forest  would  suffer  them  to  remain  and  improve  the  soil.  They  seemed  to 
hope  that  white  men  would  no  longer  provoke  the  Indians  to  savage  warfare. 

Soon  after  they  landed,  the  four  men,  the  heads  of  the  families,  started  up  the 
Scioto  to  see  the  paradise  of  the  west,  of  which  they  had  heard  from  the  mouths 
of  white  men  who  had  traversed  it  during  their  captivity  among  the  natives.  Leav 
ing  the  little  colony,  now  consisting  of  four  women  and  their  children,  to  the  pro 
tection  of  an  over-ruling  Providence,  they  traversed  the  beautiful  bottoms  of  the 
Scioto  as  far  up  as  the  prairies  above,  and  opposite  to  where  Piketon  now  stands. 
One  of  them,  Peter  Patrick  by  name,  pleased  with  the  country,  cut  the  initials  of 
his  name  on  a  beech,  near  the  river,  which  being  found  in  after  times,  gave  the 
name  of  Pee  Pee  to  the  creek  that  flows  through  the  prairie  of  the  same  name ; 
and  from  that  creek  was  derived  the  name  of  Pee  Pee  township  in  Pike  county. 

Encamping  near  the  site  of  Piketon,  they  were  surprised  by  a  party  of  Indians, 
who  killeu  two  of  them  as  they  lay  by  their  fires.  The  other  two  escaped  over  the 
hills  to  the  Ohio  River,  which  they  struck  at  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Scioto,  just 
as  some  white  men  going  down  the  river  in  a  pirogue  were  passing.  They  were 
going  to  Port  Vincennes,  on  the  Wabash.  The  tale  of  woe  which  was  told  by  these 
men,  with  entreaties  to  be  taken  on  board,  was  at  first  insufficient  for  their  relief. 
It  was  not  uncommon  for  Indians  to  compel  white  prisoners  to  act  in  a  similar 
manner  to  entice  boats  to  the  shore  for  murderous  and  marauding  purposes.  After 
keeping  them  some  time  running  down  the  shore,  until  they  believed  that  if  there 
was  an  ambuscade  of  Indians  on  shore,  they  were  out  of  its  reach,  they  took  them 
on  board,  and  brought  them  to  the  little  settlement,  the  lamentations  at  which  can 
not  be  described,  nor  its  feeling  conceived,  when  their  peace  was  broken  and  their 
hopes  blasted  by  the  intelligence  of  the  disaster  reaching  them.  My  informant 
was  one  who  came  down  in  the  pirogue. 

There  was,  however,  no  time  to  be  lost ;  their  safety  depended  on  instant  flight 
— and  gathering  up  all  their  movables,  they  put  off  to  Limestone,  now  Maysville,  as 
a  place  of  greater  safety,  where  the  men  in  the  pirogue  left  them,  and  my  informant 
said,  never  heard  of  them  more. 

Orclevitte,  the  county  seat  of  Pickaway  county,  on  the  Scioto  River,  on 
the  line  of  the  Erie  and  Ohio  Canal,  and  on  the  railroad  from  Cincinnati  to 
Wheeling,  is  26  miles  S.  from  Columbus,  and  19  N.  from  Chillicothe.  It 
has  numerous  mills  and  factories,  and  an  extensive  water  power.  Population 
about  5,000. 

It  was  laid  out  in  1810,  as  the  seat  of  justice,  by  Daniel  Dresbatch,  on 
land  originally  belonging  to  Zeiger  and  Watt.  The  town  is  on  the  site  of 
ancient  fortifications,  one  of  which  having  been  circular,  originated  the  name 
of  the  place.  The  old  court  house,  built  in  the  form  of  an  octagon,  and  de 
stroyed  in  1841,  stood  in  the  center  of  the  circle.  There  were  two  forts,  one 
being  an  exact  circle  of  69  feet  in  diameter,  the  other  an  exact  square,  55 
rods  on  a  side.  The  former  was  surrounded  by  two  walls,  with  a  deep  ditch 
between  them;  the  latter  by  one  wall,  without  any  ditch.  Opposite  each 
gateway  a  small  mound  was  erected  inside,  evidently  for  defense. 

Three  and  a  half  miles  south  of  Circleville  are  the  celebrated  Pickaway  Plains, 
said  to  contain  the  richest  body  of  land  in  southern  Ohio.  "  They  are  divided  into 
two  parts,  the  greater  or  upper  plain,  and  the  lesser  or  lower  one.  They  com 
prise  about  20,000  acres.  When  first  cultivated  the  soil  was  very  black,  the  result 
of  vegetable  decomposition,  and  their  original  fertility  was  such  as  to  produce  one 
hundred  bushels  of  corn,  or  fifty  of  wheat  to  the  acre.  Formerly  the  plains  were 
adorned  with  a  great  variety  of  flowers. 

Of  all  places  in  the  west,  this  pre-eminently  deserves  the  name  of  "  classic 
ground,"  for  this  was  the  seat  of  the  powerful  Shawnee  tribe.  Here,  in  olden  time, 
burned  the  council  fires  of  the  red  man ;  here  the  affairs  of  the  nation  in  general 
council  were  discussed,  and  the  important  questions  of  peace  and  war  decided. 
On  these  plains  the  allied  tribes  marched  forth  and  met  Gen.  Lewis,  and  fought 


OHIO. 


163 


the  sanguinary  battle  at  Point  Pleasant,  on  the  Virginia  bank  of  the  Ohio  at  the 
eve  of  the  Revolution.  Here  it  was  that  Logan  made  his  memorable  speech,  and 
here,  too,  that  the  noted  campaign  of  Dunmore  was  brought  to  a  close  by  a  treaty 
or  rather  a  truce,  at  Camp  Charlotte. 

Among  the  circumstances  which  invest  this  region  with  extraordinary  interest 
is  the  fact,  that  to  those  towns  were  brought  so  many  of  the  truly  unfortunate 
prisoners  who  were  abducted  from  the  neighboring  states.  Here  they  were  immo 
lated  on  the  altar  of  the  red  men's  vengeance,  and  made  to  suffer,  to  the  death,  all 
the  tortures  savage  ingenuity  could  invent,  as  a  sort  of  expiation  for  the  aggres 
sions  of  their  race. 

Old  Chillicothe,  which  was  the  principal  village,  stood  on  the  site  of  Westfall 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Scioto,  4  miles  below  Circleville.  It  was  here  that  Logan', 
the  Mingo  chief,  delivered  his  famous  speech  to  John  Gibson,  an  Indian  trader. 
On  the  envoy  arriving  at  the  village,  Logan  came  to  him  and  invited  him  into  an 
adjoining  wood,  where  they  sat  down.  After  shedding  abundance  of  tears,  the 
honored  chief  told  his  pathetic  story — called  a  speech,  although  conversationally 
given.  Gibson  repeated  it  to  the  officers,  who  caused  it  to  be  published  in  the 
Virginia  Gazette  of  that  year,  so  that  it  fell  under  the  observation  of  Mr.  Jefferson, 
who  gave  it  to  the  world  in  his  Notes  on  Virginia :  and  as  follows : 

I  appeal  to  any  white  man  to  say,  if  he  ever  entered  Logan's  cabin  hungry,  and  I  gave 
him  not  meat;  if  ever  he  came  cold  or  naked,  and  I  gave  him  not  clothing? 

During  the  course  of  the  last  long  and  bloody  war,  Logan  remained  in  his  tent,  an  advo 
cate  for  peace.  Nay,  such  was  my  love  for  the  whites,  that  those  of  my  own  country  pointed 
at  me  as  they  passed  by,  and  said,  "  Logan  is  the  friend  of  white  men."  I  had  even  thought 
to  live  with  you,  but  for  the  injuries  of  one  man.  Colonel  Cresap,  the  last  spring,  in  cool 
blood,  and  unprovoked,  cut  off  all  the  relatives  of  Logan  ;  not  sparing  even  my  women  and 
children.  There  runs  not  a  drop  of  my  blood  in  the  veins  of  any  human  creature.  This 
called  on  me  for  revenge.  I  have  sought  it.  I  have  killed  many.  I  have  fully  glutted  my 
vengeance.  For  my  country,  I  rejoice  at  the  beams  of  peace.  Yet,  do  not  harbor  the 
thought  that  mine  is  the  joy  of  fear.  Logan  never  felt  fear.  He  will  not  turn  on  his  heel 
to  save  his  life.  Who  is  there  to  mourn  for  Logan  ?  Not  one. 

This  brief  effusion  of  mingled  pride,  courage,  and  sorrow,  elevated  the  character 
of  the  native  American  throughout  the  intelligent  world;  and  the  place  where  it 
was  delivered  can  never  be  forgotten  so  long  as  touching  eloquence  is  admired  by 
men. 

The  last  years  of  Logan  were  truly  melancholy.  He  wandered  about  from  tribe 
to  tribe,  a  solitary  and  lonely  man  ;  dejected  and  broken-hearted,  by  the  loss  of 
his  friends  and  the  decay  of  his  tribe,  he  resorted  to  the  stimulus  of  strong  drink 
to  drown  his  sorrow.  He  was  at  last  murdered  in  Michigan,  near  Detroit.  He 
was,  at  the  time,  sitting  with  his  blanket  over  his  head,  before  a  camp-fire,  his 
elbows  resting  on  his  knees,  and  his  head  upon  his  hands,  buried  in  profound  re 
flection,  when  an  Indian,  who  had  taken  some  offense,  stole  behind  him  and  buried 
his  tomahawk  in  his  brains.  Thus  perished  the  immortal  Logan,  the  last  of  his 
race. 

At  the  various  villages,  were  the  burning  grounds  of  the  captives  taken  in  war. 
These  were  on  elevated  sites,  so  that  when  a  victim  was  sacrificed  by  fire,  the 
smoke  could  be  seen  at  the  other  towns. 

The  chief,  Cornstalk,  whose  town  was  on  Scippo  Creek,  two  miles  south 
easterly  from  Old  Chillicothe,  was  a  man  of  true  nobility  of  soul,  and  a 
brave  warrior. 

At  the  battle  of  Point  Pleasant  he  commanded  the  Indians  with  consummate  skill ,  and 
if  at  any  time  his  warriors  were  believed  to  waver,  his  voice  could  be  heard  above  the  din 
of  battle,  exclaiming  in  his  native  tongue,  "  Be  strong! — be  strong!  "  When  he  returned 
to  the  Pickaway  towns,  after  the  battle,  he  called  a  council  of  the  nation  to  consult  what 
should  be  done,  and  upbraided  them  in  not  suffering  him  to  make  peace,  as  he  desired,  on 
the  evening  before  the  battle.  "What,"  said  he,  "  will  you  do  now?  The  Big  Knife  is 
coming  on  us,  and  we  shall  all  be  killed.  Now  you  must  fight  or  we  are  undone."  But 
no  one  answering,  he  said,  "  then  let  us  kill  all  our  women  and  children,  and  go  and  fight 
until  we  die."  But  no  answer  was  made,  when,  rising,  he  struck  his  tomahawk  in  a  post 
of  the  council  house  and  exclaimed,  "  I'll  go  and  make  peace,"  to  which  all  the  warriors 
grunted  "ough!  ough!"and  runners  were  instantly  dispatched  to  Dunmore  to  solicit 
pence. 


1164 


OHIO. 


In  the  summer  of  1777,  he  was  atrociously  murdered  at  Point  Pleasant.  As  his  mur 
derers  were  approaching,  his  son  Elinipsico  trembled  violently.  "  His  father  encouraged 
him  not  to  be  afraid,  for  that  the  Great  Man  above  had  sent  him  there  to  be  killed  and  die 
with  him.  As  the  men  advanced  to  the  door,  Cornstalk  rose  up  and  met  them:  they  fired 
and  seven  or  eight  bullets  went  through  him.  So  fell  the  great  Cornstalk  warrior — whose 
name  was  bestowed  upon  him  by  the  consent  of  the  nation,  as  their  great  strength  and 
support."  Had  he  lived,  it  is  believed  that  he  would  have  been  friendly  with  the  Ameri 
cans,  as  he  had  come  over  to  visit  the  garrison  at  Point  Pleasant  to  communicate  the  de 
sign  of  the  Indians  of  uniting  with  the  British.  His  grave  is  to  be  seen  at  Point  Pleas 
ant  to  the  present  day. 


State  Capitol,  at  Columbus. 

COLUMBUS,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Franklin  county,  and  capital  of  Ohio, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Scioto,  110  miles  N.E.  from  Cincinnati,  100  N.W. 
from  Marietta,  and  139  S.E.  from  Cleveland,  is  on  the  same  parallel  of  lati 
tude  with  Zanesville  and  Philadelphia,  and  on  the  same  meridian  with  De 
troit,  Mich.,  and  Milledgeville,  Greo. 

The  site  of  Columbus  is  level,  and  it  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  broad, 
spacious  streets :  Broad-street,  the  principal  one,  is  120  feet  wide.  In  the 
center  of  the  city  is  a  public  square  of  10  acres,  inclosed  by  a  neat  railing  ; 
and  in  the  environs  is  Groodale  Park,  a  tract  of  40  acres,  covered  with  a 
growth  of  native  trees.  The  new  state  house,  or  capitol,  is  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  buildings  in  the  Union.  It  is  304  feet  long  by  184  wide,  and 
from  its  base  to  the  top  of  the  rotunda  is  157  feet.  The  material  is  a  hard, 
whitish  limestone,  resembling  marble. 

Columbus  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  and  populous  country,  and  is  a  place  of 
active  business.  The  National  road,  passes  through  it  from  east  to  west, 
and  the  Columbus  feeder  connects  it  with  the  Ohio  canal.  Several  plank 
roads  and  turnpikes  terminate  here,  and  numerous  railroads,  stretching  out 
their  iron  arms  in  every  direction,  give  it  convenient  communication  with 
all  parts  of  the  state  and  Union. 


OHIO.  165 

In  the  environs  of  the  city  are  the  various  state  institutions.  The  State 
Penitentiary  is  a  large  and  substantial  edifice ;  the  buildings  and  inclosures 
form  a  hollow  square  of  six  acres;  about  1,000  convicts  have  been  confined 
here  at  one  time.  The  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum,  a  noble  structure,  occupies 
about  an  acre  of  ground,  and  has  thirty  acres  attached  to  it,  covered  with 
trees  and  shrubbery.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  a  handsome  building, 
surrounded  with  grounds  laid  out  with  taste.  The  Ohio  Institution  for  the 
Education  of  the  Blind  is  surrounded  by  a  plot  of  ground,  of  about  9  acres, 
laid  out  with  graveled  walks,  and  planted  with  trees.  The  Starling  Medi 
cal  College  is  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice.  The  Theological  Seminary  of  the 
German  Lutherans,  is  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  center  of  the 
city.  Columbus,  as  a  commercial  depot,  has  superior  facilities,  and  it  has 
numerous  and  extensive  manufacturing  establishments.  Population,  in  1820, 
1,400;  in  1840,  6,048;  in  1850,  18,138;  and  in  1860,  18,647. 

From  the  first  organization  of  the  state  government  until  1816,  there  was  no  per 
manent  state  capital.  The  sessions  of  the  legislature  were  held  at  Chillicothe  until 
1810;  the  sessions  of  1810-11  and  1811-12,  were  held  at  Zanesville;  after  that, 
until  December,  1816,  they  were  again  held  at  Chillicothe,  at  which  time  the  leg 
islature  was  first  convened  at  Columbus. 

Among  the  various  proposals  to  the  legislature,  while  in  session  at  Zanesville, 
for  the  establishment  of  a  permanent  seat  of  government,  were  those  of  Lyne  Star 
ling,  James  Johnston,  Alex.  M'Laughlin  and  John  Kerr,  the  after  proprietors  of 
Columbus,  for  establishing  it  on  the  "  high  bank  of  the  Scioto  River,  opposite 
Franklinton,"  which  site  was  then  a  native  forest.  On  the  14th  Feb.,  1812,  the 
legislature  passed  a  law  accepting  their  proposals,  and  in  one  of  its  section?, 
selected  Chillicothe  as  a  temporary  seat  of  government  merely.  By  an  act  amend 
atory  of  the  other,  passed  Feb.  17,  1816,  it  was  enacted,  "  that  from  and  after  the 
second  Tuesday  of  October  next,  the  seat  of  government  of  this  state  shall  be 
established  at  the  town  of  Columbus." 


Ohio   White  Sulphur  Springs. 

On  the  19th  of  Feb.,  1812,  the  proprietors  signed  and  acknowledged  their  arti 
cles  at  Zanesville,  as  partners,  under  the  law  for  the  laying  out,  etc.,  of  the  town  ot 
Columbus.  The  contract  having  been  closed  between  the  proprietors  and  the  state, 
the  town  was  laid  out  in  the  spring  of  1812,  under  the  direction  of  Moses  Wright. 

For  the  first  few  years  Columbus  improved  rapidly.  Emigrants  flowed  in,  appa- 
rentlv,  from  all  quarters,  and  the  improvements  and  general  business  of  the  place 
kept  pace  with  the  increase  of  population.  Columbus,  however,  was  a  rough  spot 
in  the  woods,  off  from  any  public  road  of  much  consequence.  The  east  and  west 


166  OHI°- 

travel  passed  through  Zanesville,  Lancaster  and  Chillicothe,  and  the  mails  came  in 
cross-line  on  horseback.  The  first  successful  attempt  to  carry  a  mail  to  or  from 
Columbus,  otherwise  than  on  horseback,  was  by  Philip  Zinn,  about  the  year  1816, 
once  a  week  between  Chillicothe  and  Columbus.  The  years  from  1819  to  1826, 
were  the  dullest  years  of  Columbus  ;  but  soon  after  it  began  to  improve.  The  lo 
cation  of  the  national  road  and  the  Columbus  feeder  to  the  Ohio  canal,  gave  an 
impetus  to  improvements. 

The  Ohio  White  Sulphur  Springs  are  beautifully  situated  on  the  Scioto 
River,  in  Delaware  county,  17  miles  north  of  Columbus,  near  the  line  of  the 
Springfield,  Mt.  Vernon  and  Pittsburg  Railroad.  Upon  the  estate  are  four 
medicinal  springs  of  different  properties :  one  is  white  sulphur,  one  magne- 
sian,  and  two  chalybeate.  The  spring  property  consists  of  320  acres,  part 
of  it  woodland,  handsomely  laid  off  in  walks  and  drives.  The  healthiness 
of  the  location  and  the  natural  attractions  of  the  spot,  joined  to  the  liberal 
and  generous  accommodations  furnished  by  the  proprietors,  have  rendered 
this,  at  the  present  time,  the  most  popular  watering  place  in  the  west. 

Newark,  the  capital  of  Licking  county,  on  the  Central  Ohio  Railroad,  33 
miles  easterly  from  Columbus,  is  a  pleasant  town  of  about  4,000  inhabitants. 
Six  miles  west  of  Newark  is  Granville,  noted  for  its  educational  institutions, 
male  and  female,  and  the  seat  of  Dennison  University,  founded  in  1832,  by 
the  Baptists.  This  was  one  of  the  early  settled  spots  in  Central  Ohio.  The 
annexed  historical  items  are  from  the  sketches  of  Rev.  Jacob  Little : 

In  1804,  a  company  was  formed  at  Granville,  Mass.,  with  the  intention  of  making  a 
settlement  in  Ohio.  This,  called  "  the  Scioto  Company,"  was  the  third  of  that  name  which 
effected  settlements  in  this  state.  The  project  met  with  great  favor,  and  much  enthusiasm 
was  elicited;  in  illustration  of  which,  a  song  was  composed  and  sung  to  the  tune  of  "Pleas 
ant  Ohio,"  by  the  young  people  in  the  house  and  at  labor  in  the  field.  We  annex  two 
stanzas,  which  are  more  curious  than  poetical: 
When  rambling  o'er  these  mountains  Our  precious  friends  that  stay  behind, 

And  rocks,  where  ivies  grow  We're  sorry  now  to  leave  ; 

Thick  as  the  hairs  upon  your  head,  But  if  they'll  stay  and  break  their  shins, 

'Mongst  which  you  can  not  go ;  For  them  we'll  never  grieve ; 

Great  storms  of  snow,  cold  winds  that  blow,       Adieu,  my  friends  !  come  on  my  dears, 

We  scarce  can  undergo ;  This  journey  we'll  forego, 

Says  I,  my  boys,  we'll  leave  this  place  And  settle  Licking  creek, 

For  the  pleasant  Ohio.  In  yonder  Ohio. 

The  Scioto  company  consisted  of  114  proprietors,  who  made  a  purchase  of  28,000  acres. 
In  the  autumn  of  1805,  234  persons,  mostly  from  East  Granville,  Mass.,  came  on  to  the 
purchase.  Although  they  had  been  forty- two  days  on  the  road,  their  first  business,  on  their 
arrival,  having  organized"  a  church  before  they  left  the  east,  was  to  hear  a  sermon.  The 
first  tree  cut  was  that  by  which  public  worship  was  held,  which  stood  just  in  front  of  the  site 
of  the  Presbyterian  church.  On  the  first  Sabbath,  November  16th,  although  only  about  a 
dozen  trees  had  been  cut,  they  held  divine  worship,  both  forenoon  and  afternoon,  at  that 
spot.  The  novelty  of  worshiping  in  the  woods,  the  forest  extending  hundreds  of  miles 
every  way,  the  hardships  of  the  journey,  the  winter  setting  in,  the  fresh  thoughts  of  home, 
with  all  the  friends  and  privileges  left  behind,  and  the  impression  that  such  must  be  the 
accommodations  of  a  new  country,  all  rushed  on  their  nerves  and  made  this  a  day  of  varied 
interest.  When  they  began  to  sing,  the  echo  of  their  voices  among  the  trees  was  so  dif 
ferent  from  what  it  was  in  the  beautiful  meeting  house  they  had  left,  that  they  could  no 
longer  restrain  their  tears.  They  wept  when  they  remembered  Zion.  The  voices  of  part  of 
the  choir  were  for  a  season  suppressed  with  emotion. 

An  incident  occurred,  which  some  Mrs.  Sigourney  should  put  into  a  poetical  dress. 
Deacon  Theophilus  Reese,  a  Welsh  Baptist,  had  two  or  three  years  before  built  a  cabin  a 
m;!e  and  a  half  north,  and  lived  all  this  time  without  public  worship.  He  had  lost  his 
cows,  and  hearing  a  lowing  of  the  oxen  belonging  to  the  company,  set  out  toward  them. 
As  he  ascended  the  hills  overlooking  the  town-plot,  he  heard  the  singing  of  the  choir. 
The  reverberation  of  the  sound  from  hill-tops  and  trees,  threw  the  good  man  into  a  serious 
dilemma.  The  music  at  first  seemed  to  be  behind,  then  in  the  tops  of  the  trees  or  the 
clouds.  He  stopped  till,  by  accurate  listening,  he  caught  the  direction  of  the  sound,  and 
went  on,  till  passing  the  brow  of  the  hill,  when  he  saw  the  audience  sitting  on  the  level 
below.  He  went  home  and  told  his  wife  that  "the  promise  of  God  is  a  bond;"  a  Welsh 


167 

phrase,  signifying  that  we  have  security,  equal  to  a  bond,  that  religion  will  prevail  every 
where.  He  said,  "these  must  be  good  people.  I  am  not  afraid  to  go  among  them!" 
Though  he  could  not  understand  English,  he  constantly  attended  the  reading  meeting 
Hearing  the  music  on  that  occasion  made  such  an  impression  upon  his  mind,  that  when  he 
became  old  and  met  the  first  settlers,  he  would  always  tell  over  this  story. 


Court  House,  Zanesville. 

ZANESVILLE,  the  capital  of  Muskingum  county,  is  beautifully  situated  On 
the  east  bank  of  the  Muskingum  River,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  L  icking 
creek,  54  miles  E.  of  Columbus,  82  from  Wheeling,  and  179  E.N.E.  from 
Cincinnati.  The  Muskingum,  in  passing  the  town,  has  a  natural  descent  of 
nine  feet  in  a  distance  of  about  a  mile,  which  is  increased  by  dams  to  sixteen 
feet,  thus  affording  great  water-power,  which  is  used  by  extensive  manufac 
tories  of  various  kinds.  The  number  of  factories  using  steam  power  is  also 
large,  arising  from  the  abundance  of  bituminous  coal  supplied  from  the  sur 
rounding  hills.  Steamboats  can  ascend  from  the  Ohio  to  this  point,  and 
several  make  regular  passages  between  Zanesville  and  Cincinnati.  The  Cen 
tral  Ohio  Railroad  connects  it  with  Columbus  on  one  hand  and  Wheeling  on 
the  other;  the  Zanesville,  Wilmington  and  Cincinnati  Railroad,  about  130 
miles  long,  terminates  here,  and  connects  with  another  leading  north  to 
Cleveland. 

Five  bridges  cross  the  Muskingum  here,  including  the  railroad  bridge, 
connecting  the  city  with  Putnam,  South  Zanesville  and  West  Zanesville,  all 
of  which  are  intimately  connected  with  the  business  interests  of  Zanesville 
proper.  There  are  5  flouring  mills,  also  iron  founderies  and  machine  shops, 
which  do  an  extensive  business.  The  railroad  bridge  is  of  iron,  538  feet  in 
length,  and  contains  67  tuns  of  wrought  iron  and  130  tuns  of  cast  iron. 
The  water  of  the  river  is  raised,  by  a  forcing  pump,  into  a  reservoir  on  a  hill 
160  feet  high,  containing  nearly  a  million  of  gallons,  and  from  thence  dis 
tributed  through  the  city  in  iron  pipes.  Zanesville  has  excellent  schools, 
among  which  is  the  Free  School,  supported  by  a  fund  of  from  $300,000  to 
$500,000,  bequeathed  by  J.  Mclntire,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  place. 
Within  a  circuit  of  a  mile  from  the  court  house  are  about  16,000  inhabit 
ants:  within  the  city  proper,  about  10,000. 

In  May,  1796,  congress  passed  a  law  authorizing  Ebenezer  Zane  to  open 


168  OHIO. 

a  road  from  Wheeling,  Ya.,  to  Limestone,  now  Maysville,  Ky.  In  the  fol 
lowing  year,  Mr.  Zane,  accompanied  by  his  brother,  Jonathan  Zane,  and  his 
son-in-law,  John  Mclntire,  both  experienced  woodsmen,  proceeded  to  mark 
out  the  new  road,  which  was  afterward  cut  out  by  the  latter  two.  As  a  com 
pensation  for  opening  this  road,  congress  granted  to  Ebenezer  Zane  the  priv 
ilege  of  locating  military  warrants  upon  three  sections  of  land,  not  to  exceed 
one  mile  square  each.  One  of  these  sections  was  to  be  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Muskingum,  and  one  of  the  conditions  annexed  to  Mr.  Zane's  grant  was,  that 
he  should  keep  a  ferry  at  that  spot.  This  was  intrusted  to  "Wm.  M'Culloch 
and  H.  Crooks.  The  first  mail  ever  carried  in  Ohio  was  brought  from  Ma 
rietta  to  M'Culloch's  cabin,  by  Daniel  Convers,  in  1798. 

In  1799,  Messrs.  Zane  and  M'Intire  laid  out  the  town,  which  they  called  West- 
bourn,  a  name  which  it  continued  to  bear  until  a  post-office  was  established  by  the 
postmaster  general,  under  the  name  of  Zanesville,  and  the  village  soon  took  the 
same  name.  A  few  families  from  the  Kanawha,  settled  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river  soon  after  M'Culloch  arrived,  and  the  settlement  received  pretty  numerous 
accessions  until  it  became  a  point  of  importance.  It  contained  one  store  and  no 
tavern.  The  latter  inconvenience,  however,  was  remedied  by  Mr.  M'Intire,  who, 
for  public  accommodation,  rather  than  for  private  emolument,  opened  a  house  of 
entertainment  It  is  due  to  Mr.  M'Intire  and  his  lady  to  say  that  their  accommo 
dations,  though  in  a  log  cabin,  were  such  as  to  render  their  house  the  traveler's 
home.  Prior  to  that  time  there  were  several  grog  shops  where  travelers  might 
stop,  and  after  partaking  of  a  rude  supper,  they  could  spread  their  blankets  and 
bearskins  on  the  floor,  and  sleep  with  their  feet  to  the  fire.  But  the  opening  of 
Mr.  M'Intire's  house  introduced  the  luxury  of  comfortable  beds,  and  although  his 
board  was  covered  with  the  fruits  of  the  soil  and  the  chase,  rather  than  the  luxu 
ries  of  foreign  climes,  the  fare  was  various  and  abundant.  This,  the  first  hotel  at 
Zanesville,  stood  at  what  is  BOW  the  corner  of  Market  and  Second-streets,  a  few 
rods  from  the  river,  in  an  open  maple  grove,  without  any  underbrush ;  it  was  a 
pleasant  spot,  well  shaded  with  trees,  and  in  full  view  of  the  falls.  Louis  Phillippe, 
late  king  of  France,  was  once  a  guest  of  Mr.  M'Intire. 

At  that  time,  all  the  iroa,  nails,  castings,  flour,  fruit,  with  many  other  articles 
now  produced  here  in  abundance,  were  brought  from  Pittsburgh  and  Wheeling, 
either  upon  pack-horses  across  the  country,  or  by  the  river  in  canoes.  Oats  and 
corn  were  usually  brought  about  fifty  miles  up  the  river,  in  canoes,  and  were  worth 
from  75  cents  to  $1  per  bushel :  flour,  $6  to  $8  per  barrel.  In  1802,  David  Har 
vey  opened  a  tavern  at  the  intersection  of  Third  and  Main-streets,  which  was  about 
the  first  shingle-roofed  house  in  the  town.  Mr.  M'Intire  having  only  kept  enter 
tainment  for  public  accommodation,  discontinued  after  the  opening  of  Mr.  Har 
vey's  tavern. 

In  1804,  when  the  legislature  passed  an  act  establishing  the  county  of  Mus 
kingum,  the  commissioners  appointed  to  select  a  site  for  the  county  seat,  reported 
in  favor  of  Zanesville.  The  county  seat  having  been  established,  the  town  im 
proved  more  rapidly,  and  as  the  unappropriated  United  States  military  lands  had 
been  brought  into  market  during  the  preceding  year  (1803),  and  a  land  office 
established  at  Zanesville,  many  purchases  and  settlements  were  made  in  the 
county. 

The  seat  of  government  had  been  fixed  temporarily  at  Chillicothe,  but  for  sev 
eral  reasons,  many  members  of  the  legislature  were  dissatisfied,  and  it  was  known 
that  a  change  of  location  was  desired  by  them. 

In  February,  1810,  the  desired  law  was  passed,  fixing  the  seat  of  government  at 
Zanesville,  until  otherwise  provided.  The  legislature  sat  here  during  the  sessions 
of  '10-'ll  and  '11-'12,  when  the  present  site  of  Columbus  having  been  fixed  upon 
for  the  permanent  seat,  the  Chillicothe  interest  prevailed,  and  the  temporary  seat 
was  once  more  fixed  at  that  place,  until  suitable  buildings  could  be  erected  at 
Columbus. 

The  project  of  removing  the  seat  of  government  had  been  agitated  as  early  as 
1807  or '8,  and  the  anticipation  entertained  that  Zanesville  would  be  selected,  gave 


169 

increased  activity  to  the  progress  of  improvement  Much  land  was  entered  in  the 
county,  and  many  settlements  made,  although  as  late  as  1813,  land  was  entered 
within  three  miles  of  Zanesville.  In  1809,  parts  of  the  town  plat  were  covered 
with  the  natural  growth  of  timber. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments,  the  first  three  in 
the  ancient  graveyard,  on  the  hill  at  the  head  of  Main-street,  in  Zanesville, 
the  others  in  the  extensive  cemetery  in  Putnam,  the  village  opposite : 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  JOHN  MC!NTIRE,  who  departed  this  life  July  29,  1815,  aged  56 
years.  He  was  born  at  Alexandria,  Virginia,  laid  out  the  town  of  Zanesville  in  1800,  of 
which  he  was  the  Patron  and  Father.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Convention  which  formed 
the  Constitution  of  Ohio.  A  kind  husband,  an  obliging  neighbor,  punctual  to  his  engage 
ments  ;  of  liberal  mind,  and  benevolent  disposition,  his  death  was  sincerely  lamented. 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  WILLIAM  RAYNOLDS,  a  native  of  Virginia,  he  emigrated  to  Ohio 
in  1804,  and  settled  in  the  town  at  the  foot  of  this  hill,  where  he  departed  this  life  Nov.  12. 
1844,  aged  50  years. 

Who,  though  formed  in  an  age  when  corruption  ran  high, 
And  folly  alone  seemed  with  folly  to  vie ; 
When  genius  with  traffic  too  commonly  strain'd, 
Recounted  her  merits  by  what  she  had  gain'd, 
Yet  spurn'd  at  those  walks  of  debasement  and  pelf, 
And  in  poverty's  spite,  dared  to  think  for  himself. 

Man  goeth  to  his  long  home,  and  mourners  go  about  the  streets.  Within  this  case  lieth 
the  mortal  part  of  DAVID  HARVEY,  who  was  born  in  the  parish  of  Hogen,  county  of  Corn 
wall,  England,  June  21,  1746 ;  arrived  in  Fredericktown,  Md.,  June,  1774,  and  voted  for 
the  Independence  of  the  United  States ;  supported  the  war  by  furnishing  a  soldier  during 
the  term  thereof,  according  to  an  act  of  the  Assembly  of  that  State.  Arrived  on  the  bank 
of  the  Muskingum  River,  at  Zanesville,  Ohio,  10th  of  Dec.,  1800.  Died  May,  1845,  aged 
69  years. 

WILLIAM  WELLES,  born  in  Glastenbury,  Conn.,  1754.  Among  the  pioneers  of  the  Eforth 
West  Territory,  he  shared  largely  in  their  labors,  privations  and  perils.  In  1790,  he  lo 
cated  at  Cincinnati.  As  Commissary  he  was  with  the  army  of  St.  Clair,  and  was  wounded 
in  its  memorable  defeat.  In  1800,  he  settled  in  Zanesville,  subsequently  he  removed  to 
Putnam,  where  he  lived  respected  and  beloved  by  all  who  knew  him,  and  died  universally 
lamented,  on  the  26th  of  Jan.,  1814. 

DR.  INCREASE  MATTHEWS,  born  in  Braintree,  Massachusetts,  Dec.  22,  1772.  Died  June 
6,  1856.  "  Blessed  is  the  man  in  whose  spirit  there  is  no  guile."  Psalms  xxxii,  2.  Dr. 
Matthews  emigrated  to  Marietta,  Ohio,  1800.  In  the  spring  of  1801  he  removed  to  Zanes 
ville,  and  the  same  year  bought  the  land  which  forms  the  cemetery,  including  the  town  plat 
of  Putnam.  For  some  time  he  was  the  only  physician  in  the  county.  Among  the  early 
pioneers  of  the  valley  of  the  Muskingum,  his  many  unostentatious  virtues,  and  the  purity 
and  simplicity  of  his  life  and  character  were  known  and  appreciated. 

CosJioctOTL,  the  capital  of  Coshocton  county,  is  a  small  village,  30  miles 
above  Zanesville,  at  the  forks  of  the  Muskingum,  and  on  the  line  of  the 
Pittsburg,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati  Railroad.  This  vicinity  was  a  favorite 
residence  of  the  Indians,  especially  the  Shawnees,  and  they  had  numerous 
villages  on  the  Muskingum  and  its  branches. 

Before  the  settlement  of  the  country,  there  were  several  military  expeditions  into 
this  region.  The  first  was  made  in  the  fall  of  1764,  by  Col.  Henry  Boquet,  with  a 
large  body  of  British  regulars  and  borderers  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia^  Over 
awed  by  .his  superiority,  and  unable  by  his  vigilance  to  effect  a  surprise,  the 
combined  tribes  made  a  peace  with  him,  in  which  they  agreed  to  deliver  up  their 
captives.  The  delivery  took  place  on  the  9th  of  November,  at  or  near  the  site  of 
Coshocton.  The  number  brought  in  was  206,  men,  women  and  children,  all  from 


170 

the  frontiers  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia,  The  scene  which  then  took  place  was 
very  affecting,  as  related  by  Hutchins. 

Language,  indeed,  can  but  weakly  describe  the  scene,  one  to  which  the  poet  or  painter 
might  have  repaired  to  enrich  the  highest  colorings  of  the  variety  of  the  human  passions, 
the  philosopher,  to  find  ample  subject  for  the  most  serious  reflection,  and  the  man  to  exer 
cise  all  the  tender  and  sympathetic  feelings  of  the  soul.  There  were  to  be  seen  fathers 
and  mothers  recognizing  and  clasping  their  once  lost  babes,  husbands  hanging  around  the 
necks  of  their  newly  recovered  wives,  sisters  and  brothers  unexpectedly  meeting  together, 
after  a  long  separation,  scarcely  able  to  speak  the  same  language,  or  for  some  time  to  be 
sure  that  they  were  the  children  of  the  same  parents.  In  all  these  interviews  joy  and  rap 
ture  inexpressible  were  seen,  while  feelings  of  a  very  different  nature  were  painted  in  the 
looks  of  others,  flying  from  place  to  place,  in  eager  inquiries  after  relatives  not  found; 
trembling  to  receive  an  answer  to  questions;  distracted  with  doubts,  hopes  and  fears  on 
obtaining  no  account  of  those  they  sought  for;  or  stiffened  into  living  monuments  of  hor 
ror  and  woe,  on  learning  their  unhappy  fate. 

The  Indians,  too,  as  if  wholly  forgetting  their  usual  savageness,  bore  a  capital  part  in 
hightening  this  most  affecting  scene.  They  delivered  up  their  beloved  captives  with  the 
utmost  reluctance — shed  torrents  of  tears  over  them — recommending  them  to  the  care  and 
protection  of  the  commanding  officer.  Their  regard  to  them  continued  all  the  while  they 
remained  in  camp.  They  visited  them  from  day  to  day,  brought  them  what  corn,  skins, 
horses,  and  other  matters  had  been  bestowed  upon  them  while  in  their  families,  accompa 
nied  with  other  presents,  and  all  the  marks  of  the  most  sincere  and  tender  affection.  Nay, 
they  didn't  stop  here,  but  when  the  army  marched,  some  of  the  Indians  solicited  and  ob 
tained  permission  to  accompany  their  former  captives  to  Fort  Pitt,  and  employed  them 
selves  in  hunting  and  bringing  provisions  for  them  on  the  way.  A  young  Mingo  carried 
this  still  farther,  and  gave  an  instance  of  love  which  would  make  a  figure  even  in  romance. 
A  young  woman  of  Virginia  was  among  the  captives,  to  whom  he  had  formed  so  strong 
an  attachment  as  to  call  her  his  wife.  Against  all  the  remonstrances  of  the  imminent 
danger  to  which  he  exposed  himself  by  approaching  the  frontier,  he  persisted  in  following 
her,  at  the  risk  of  being  killed  by  the  surviving  relatives  of  many  unfortunate  persons  who 
had  been  taken  captive  or  scalped  by  those  of  his  nation. 

But  it  must  not  be  deemed  that  there  were  not  some,  even  grown  persons,  who  showed 
an  unwillingness  to  return.  The  Shawnees  were  obliged  to  bind  some  of  their  prisoners, 
and  force  them  along  to  the  camp,  and  some  women  who  had  been  delivered  up,  afterward 
found  means  to  escape,  and  went  back  to  the  Indian  tribes.  Some  who  could  not  make 
their  escape,  clung  to  their  savage  acquaintances  at  parting,  and  continued  many  days  in 
bitter  lamentations,  even  refusing  sustenance. 

In  1774,  in  Dunmore's  war,  a  second  expedition,  of  400  Virginians,  under 
Col.  Angus  M'Donald,  entered  the  country,  and  destroyed  the  Wakatomica 
towns,  and  burnt  the  corn  of  the  Indians.  This  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Dres 
den,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks. 

In  the  summer  of  1780,  a  third  expedition,  called  "  ihe  CosTiocton  campaign" 
was  made,  under  Col.  Broadhead.  The  troops  rendezvoused  at  Wheeling,  and 
marched  to  the  forks  of  the  Muskingum.  They  took  about  40  prisoners,  whom  they 
tomahawked  and  scalped  in  cold  blood.  A  chief,  who,  under  promise  of  protec 
tion,  came  to  make  peace,  was  conversing  with  Broadhead,  when  a  man,  named 
Wetzel,  came  behind  him,  and  drawing  a  concealed  tomahawk  from  the  bosom  of 
his  hunting  shirt,  lifted  it  on  high  and  then  buried  it  in  his  brains.  The  confiding 
savage  quivered,  fell  and  expired. 

In  Tuscarawas  county,  which  lies  directly  east  and  adjoining  to  Coshoc- 
ton,  as  early  as  1762,  the  Moravian  missionaries,  Rev.  Frederick  Post  and 
John  Heckewelder,  established  a  Mission  among  the  Indians  on  the  Tusca 
rawas,  where,  in  1781,  Mary  Heckewelder,  the  first  white  child  born  in  Ohio, 
first  saw  the  light.  Other  missionary  auxiliaries  were  sent  out  by  that 
society,  for  the  propagation  of  the  Christian  religion  among  the  Indians. 
Among  these  was  the  Rev.  David  Zeisberger,  a  man  whose  devotion  to  the 
cause  was  attested  by  the  hardships  he  endured,  and  the  dangers  he  encoun 
tered.  Had  the  same  pacific  policy  which  governed  the  Friends  of  Penn 
sylvania,  in  their  treatment  of  the  Indians,  been  adopted  by  the  white  set- 


171 

tiers  of  the  west,  the  efforts  of  the  Moravian  missionaries  in  Ohio  would 
have  been  more  successful. 

They  had  three  stations  on  the  Tuscarawas  Eiver,  or  rather  three  Indian  villages, 
viz :  Shoenbrun,  Gnadenhutten  and  Salem.  The  site  of  the  first  is  about  two  miles' 
south  of  New  Philadelphia;  seven  miles  farther  south  was  Gnadenhutten,  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  present  village  of  that  name ;  and  about  five  miles  below 
that  was  Salem,  a  short  distance  from  the  village  of  Port  Washington.  The  first 
and  last  mentioned  were  on  the  west  side  of  the  Tuscarawas,  now  near  the  margin 
of  the  Ohio  canal.  Gnadenhutten  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  It  was  here 
that  a  massacre  took  place  on  the  8th  of  March,  1782,  which,  for  cool  barbarity,  is 
perhaps  unequaled  in  the  history  of  the  Indian  wars. 

The  Moravian  villages  on  the  Tuscarawas  were  situated  about  mid- way  between 
the  white  settlements  near  the  Ohio,  and  some  warlike  tribes  of  Wyandots  and 
Delawares  on  the  Sandusky.  These  latter  were  chiefly  in  the  service  of  England,  or  at 
least  opposed  to  the  colonists,  with  whom  she  was  then  at  war.  There  was  a  Brit 
ish  station  at  Detroit,  and  an  American  one  at  Fort  Pitt  (Pittsburg),  which  were 
regarded  as  the  nucleus  of  western  operations  by  each  of  the  contending  parties. 
The  Moravian  villages  of  friendly  Indians  on  the  Tuscarawas  were  situated,  as  the 
saying  is,  between  two  fires.  As  Christian  converts  and  friends  of  peace,  both 
policy  and  inclination  led  them  to  adopt  neutral  grounds. 

Several  depredations  had  been  committed  by  hostile  Indians,  about  this  time,  on 
the  frontier  inhabitants  of  western  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia,  who  determined 
to  retaliate.  A  company  of  one  hundred  men  was  raised  and  placed  under  the 
command  of  Col.  Williamson,  as  a  corps  of  volunteer  militia.  They  set  out  for 
the  Moravian  towns  on  the  Tuscarawas,  and  arrived  within  a  mile  of  Gnadenhut 
ten  on  the  night  of  the  5th  of  March.  On  the  morning  of  the  6th,  finding  the  In 
dians  were  employed  in  their  corn-field,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  sixteen  of 
Williamson's  men  crossed,  two  at  a  time,  over  in  a  large  sap-trough,  or  vessel  used 
for  retaining  sugar  water,  taking  their  rifles  with  them.  The  remainder  went  into 
the  village,  where  they  found  a  man  and  a  woman,  both  of  whom  they  killed.  The 
sixteen  on  the  west  side,  on  approaching  the  Indians  in  the  field,  found  them  more 
numlrous  than  they  expected.  They  had  their  arms  with  them,  which  was  usual 
on  such  occasions,  both  for  purposes  of  protection  and  for  killing  game.  The 
whites  accosted  them  kindly,  told  them  they  had  come  to  take  them  to  a  place 
where  they  would  be  in  future  protected,  and  advised  them  to  quit  work,  and  re 
turn  with  them  to  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Pitt.  Some  of  the  Indians  had  been 
taken  to  that  place  in  the  preceding  year,  had  been  well  treated  by  the  American 
governor  of  the  fort,  and  been  dismissed  with  tokens  of  warm  friendship.  Under 
these  circumstances,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  unsuspecting  Moravian  Indians 
readily  surrendered  their  arms,  and  at  once  consented  to  be  controlled  by  the  ad 
vice  of  Col.  Williamson  and  his  men.  An  Indian  messenger  was  dispatched  to 
Salem,  to  apprise  the  brethren  there  of  the  new  arrangement,  and  both  companies 
returned  to  Gnadenhutten. 

On  reaching  the  village,  a  number  of  mounted  militia  started  for  the  Salem  settlement, 
but  e'er  they  reached  it,  found  that  the  Moravian  Indians  at  that  place  had  already  left 
their  corn-fields,  by  the  advice  of  the  messenger,  and  were  on  the  road  to  join  their  breth 
ren  at  Gnadeuhutten.  Measures  had  been  adopted  by  the  militia  to  secure  the  Indians 
whom  they  had  at  first  decoyed  into  their  power.  They  were  bound,  confined  in  two  houses 
and  well  guarded.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Indians  from  Salem  (their  arms  having  been  pre 
viously  secured  without  suspicion  of  any  hostile  intention),  they  were  also  fettered,  and  di 
vided  between  the  two  prison  houses,  the  males  in  one,  and  the  females  in  the  other.  The 
number  thus  confined  in  both,  including  men,  women  and  children,  have  been  estimated 
from  ninety  to  ninety-six. 

A  council  was  then  held  to  determine  how  the  Moravian  Indians  should  be  disposed  of. 
This  self  constituted  military  court  embraced  both  officers  and  privates.  The  late  Dr. 
Dodridge,  in  his  published  notes  on  Indian  wars,  etc.,  says:  "  Colonel  Williamson  put  the 
question,  whether  the  Moravian  Indians  should  be  taken  prisoners  to  Fort  Pitt,  or  put  to 
death?"  requesting  those  who  were  in  favor  of  saving  their  lives  to  step  out  and  form  a 
second  rank.  Only  eighteen  out  of  the  whole  number  stepped  forth  as  the  advocates  of 
mercy.  In  these  the  feelings  of  humanity  were  not  extinct.  In  the  majority,  which  was 
large,  no  sympathy  was  manifested.  They  resolved  to  murder  (for  no  other  word  can  ex- 


,172  OHIO. 

press  the  act),  the  whole  of  the  Christian  Indians  in  their  custody.  Among  these  were 
several  who  had  contributed  to  aid  the  missionaries  in  the  work  of  conversion  and  civili 
zation — two  of  whom  emigrated  from  New  Jersey  after  the  death  of  their  spiritual  pastor, 
Rev.  David  Brainard.  One  woman,  who  could  speak  good  English,  knelt  before  the  com 
mander  and  begged  his  protection.  Her  supplication  was  unavailing.  They  were  ordered 
to  prepare  for  death.  But  the  warning  had  been  anticipated.  Their  firm  belief  in  their 
new  creed  was  shown  forth  in  the  sad  hour  of  their  tribulation,  by  religious  exercises  of 
preparation.  The  orisons  of  these  devoted  people  were  already  ascending  the  throne  of 
the  Most  High! — the  sound  of  the  Christian's  hymn  and  the  Christian's  prayer  found  an 
echo  in  the  surrounding  woods,  but  no  responsive  feeling  in  the  bosoms  of  their  execution 
ers.  With  gun,  and  spear,  and  tomahawk,  and  scalping  knife,  the  work  of  death  pro 
gressed  in  these  slaughter  houses,  till  not  a  sigh  or  moan  was  heard  to  proclaim  the  exist 
ence  of  human  life  within — all,  sate  two — two  Indian  boys  escaped,  as  if  by  a  miracle,  to 
be  witnesses  in  after  times  of  the  savage  cruelty  of  the  white  man  toward  their  unfortu 
nate  race. 

Thus  were  upward  of  ninety  human  beings  hurried  to  an  untimely  grave  by  those  who 
should  have  been  their  legitimate  protectors.  After  committing  the  barbarous  act,  Wil 
liamson  and  his  men  set  fire  to  the  houses  containing  the  dead,  and  then  marched  off  for 
Shoenbrun,  the  upper  Indian  town.  But  here  the  news  of  their  atrocious  deeds  had  pre 
ceded  them.  The  inhabitants  had  all  fled,  and  with  them  fled  for  a  time  the  hopes  of  the 
missionaries  to  establish  a  settlement  of  Christian  Indians  on  the  Tuscarawas.  The  fruits 
of  ten  years'  labor  in  the  cause  of  civilization  were  apparently  lost. 

Those  engaged  in  the  campaign,  were  generally  men  of  standing  at  home.  When  the 
expedition  was  formed,  it  was  given  out  to  the  public  that  its  sole  object  was  to  remove 
the  Moravians  to  Pittsburg,  and  by  destroying  the  villages,  deprive  the  hostile  savages  of 
a  shelter.  In  their  towns,  various  articles  plundered  from  the  whites,  were  discovered. 
One  man  is  said  to  have  found  the  bloody  clothes  of  his  wife  and  children,  who  had  re 
cently  been  murdered.  These  articles,  doubtless,  had  been  purchased  of  the  hostile  Indi 
ans.  The  sight  of  these,  it  is  said,  bringing  to  mind  the  forms  of  murdered  relations, 
wrought  them  up  to  an  uncontrollable  pitch  of  frenzy,  which  nothing  but  blood  could 
satisfy. 

In  the  year  1799,  when  the  remnant  of  the  Moravian  Indians  were  recalled  by  the  United 
States  to  reside  on  the  same  spot,  an  old  Indian,  in  company  with  a  young  man  by  the 
name  of  Carr,  walked  over  the  desolate  scene,  and  showed  to  the  white  man  an  excava 
tion,  which  had  formerly  been  a  cellar,  and  in  which  were  still  some  moldering  bon^s  of 
the  victims,  though  seventeen  years  had  passed  since  their  tragic  death — the  tears,  in  the 
meantime,  falling  down  the  wrinkled  face  of  this  aged  child  of  the  Tuscarawas. 

The  Mission,  having  been  resumed,  was  continued  in  operation  until  the 
year  1823,  when  the  Indians  sold  out  their  lands  to  the  United  States,  and 
removed  to  a  Moravian  station  on  the  Thames,  in  Canada.  The  faithful 
Zeisberger  died  and  was  buried  at  Goshen,  the  last  abiding  place  of  his  flock. 
In  a  small  graveyard  there,  a  little  marble  slab  bears  the  following  inscrip 
tion: 

DAVID  ZEISBERGER,  who  was  born  llth  April,  1721,  in  Moravia,  and  departed  this  life  7th 
Nov.,  1808,  aged  87  years,  7  months  and  6  days.  This  faithful  servant  of  the  Lord  labored 
among  the  Moravian  Indians,  as  a  missionary,  during  the  last  sixty  years  of  his  life. 

STEUBENVILLE,  the  capital  of  Jefferson  county,  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ohio,  on  an  elevated  plain,  150  miles  from  Columbus,  36,  in  a 
direct  line,  from  Pittsburgh,  and  75  by  the  river,  and  22  above  Wheeling, 
Va.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  country,  and  is  the  center  of  an  exten 
sive  trade,  and  flourishing  manufactories  of  various  kinds,  which  are  supplied 
with  fuel  from  the  inexhaustible  mines  of  stone  coal  in  the  vicinity.  The 
Female  Seminary  at  this  place,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  flour 
ishing  institution,  and  has  a  widely  extended  reputation.  It  contains  about 
9,000  inhabitants. 

Steubenville  was  laid  out  in  1798,  by  Bezabel  Wells  and  James  Ross.  It  derives 
its  name  from.  Fort  Steuben,  which  was  erected  in  1789.  on  High-street,  near  the 
site  of  the  Female  Seminary.  It  was  built  of  block-houses  connected  by  palisade 
fences,  and  was  dismantled  at  the  time  of  Wayne's  victory,  previous  to  which  it 


OHIO. 


173 


had  been  garrisoned  by  the  United  States  infantry,  under  the  command  of  Colonel 
Beatty. 

The  old  Mingo  town,  three  miles  below  Steubenville,  was  a  place  of  note  prior 
to  the  settlement  of  the  country.  It  was  the  point  where  the  troops  of  Col.  Wil 
liamson  rendezvoused  in  the  infamous  Moravian  campaign,  and  those  of  Colonel 
Crawford,  in  his  unfortunate  expedition  against  the  Sandusky  Indians.  It  was 


View  in  Steubenville. 

The  engraving  shows  the  appearance  of  Market-street,  looking  westward,  near  the  Court  House,  which 
nppears  on  the  right ;  a  portion  of  the  Market  on  the  left ;  the  Steubenville  and  Indiana  Railroad  crosses 
Market-street  in  the  distance,  near  which  are  Woolen  Factories. 

also,  at  one  time,  the  residence  of  Logan,  the  celebrated  Mingo  chief,  whose  form 
was  striking  and  manly,  and  whose  magnanimity  and  eloquence  have  seldom  been 
equaled.  He  was  a  son  of  the  Cayuga  chief  Skikellimus,  who  dwelt  at  Shamokin, 
Pa.,  in  1742,  and  was  converted  to  Christianity  under  the  preaching  of  the  Mora 
vian  missionaries.  Skikellimus  highly  esteemed  James  Logan,  the  secretary  of  the 
province,  named  his  son  from  him,  and  probably  had  him  baptized  by  the  mission 
aries. 

Logan  took  no  part  in  the  old  French  war,  which  ended  in  1760,  except  that  of 
a  peace  maker,  and  was  always  the  friend  of  the  white  people  until  the  base  mur 
der  of  his  family  to  which  has  been  attributed  the  origin  of  Dunmore's  war.  This 
event  took  place  near  the  mouth  of  Yellow  creek,  in  this  county,  about  17  miles 
above  Steubenville.  During  the  war  which  followed,  Logan  frequently  showed  his 
magnanimity  to  prisoners  who  fell  into  his  hands. 

Conneaut,  in  Ashtabula  county,  the  north-eastern  corner  township  of  Ohio, 
is  on  Lake  Erie,  and  on  the  Lake  Shore  Kailroad,  67  miles  east  of  Cleve 
land  ;  it  is  distinguished  as  the  landing  place  of  the  party  who  made  the  first 
settlement  of  northern  Ohio,  in  1796 ;  hence  it  is  sometimes  called  the  Ply 
mouth  of  the  Western  Reserve.  There  is  a  good  harbor  at  the  mouth  of 
Conneaut  creek,  and  a  light  house. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  1796,  the  first  surveying  party  of  the  Western  Re 
serve  landed  at  the  mouth  of  Conneaut  creek.  Of  this  event,  John  Barr, 
Esq.,  in  his  sketch  of  the  Western  Reserve,  in  the  National  Magazine  for 
December,  1845,  has  given  the  following  sketch: 

The  sons  of  revolutionary  sires,  some  of  them  sharers  of  themselves  in  the  great 
baptism  of  the  republic,  they  made  the  anniversary  of  their  country's  freedom  a 


174  OHIO. 

day  of  ceremonial  and  rejoicing.  They  felt  that  they  had  arrived  at  the  place  of 
their  labors,  the — to  many  of  them — sites  of  home,  as  little  alluring,  almost  as 
crowded  with  dangers,  as  were  the  levels  of  Jamestown,  or  the  rocks  of  Plymouth 
to  the  ancestors  who  had  preceded  them  in  the  conquest  of  the  sea-coast  wilderness 
of  this  continent.  From  old  homes  and  friendly  and  social  associations,  they  were 
almost  as  completely  exiled  as  were  the  cavaliers  who  debarked  upon  the  shores  of 
Virginia,  or  the  Puritans  who  sought  the  strand  of  Massachusetts.  Far  away  as 
they  were  from  the  villages  of  their  birth  and  boyhood ;  before  them  the  trackless 
forest,  or  the  untraversed  lake,  yet  did  they  resolve  to  cast  fatigue,  and  privation 
and  peril  from  their  thoughts  for  the  time  being,  and  give  to  the  day  its  due,  to  pa 
triotism  its  awards.  Mustering  their  numbers,  they  sat  them  down  on  the  east 
ward  shore  of  the  stream  now  known  as  Conneaut,  and,  dipping  from  the  lake  the 
liquor  in  which  they  pledged  their  country — their  goblets,  some  tin  cups  of  no  rare 
workmanship,  yet  every  way  answerable,  with  the  ordnance  accompaniment  of  two 
or  three  fowling  pieces  discharging  the  required  national  salute — the  first  settlers 
of  the  Reserve  spent  their  landing-day  as  became  the  sons  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 
— as  the  advance  pioneers  of  a  population  that  has  since  made  the  then  wilderness 
of  northern  Ohio  to  "  blossom  as  the  rose,"  and  prove  the  homes  of  a  people  as  re 
markable  for  integrity,  industry,  love  of  country,  moral  truth  and  enlightened  leg 
islation,  as  any  to  be  found  within  the  territorial  limits  of  their  ancestral  New 
England. 

The  whole  party  numbered  on.  this  occasion,  fifty-two  persons,  of  whom  two  were  fe 
males  (Mrs.  Stiles  and  Mrs.  Gunn,  and  a  child).  As  these  individuals  were  the  advance 
of  after  millions  of  population,  their  names  become  worthy  of  record,  and  are  therefore 
given,  viz:  Moses  Cleveland,  agent  of  the  company;  Augustus  Porter,  principal  surveyor; 
Seth  Pease,  Moses  Warren,  Amos  Spafford,  Milton  Hawley,  Richard  M.  Stoddard,  sur 
veyors;  Joshua  Stowe,  commissary;  Theodore  Shepard,  physician;  Joseph  Tinker,  princi 
pal  boatman;  Joseph  Mclntyre,  George  Proudfoot,  Francis  Gay,  Samuel  Forbes,  Elijah 
Gunn,  wife  and  child,  Amos  Sawten,  Stephen  Benton,  Amos  Barber,  Samuel  Hungerford, 
William  B.  Hall,  Samuel  Davenport,  Asa  Mason,  Amzi  Atwater,  Michael  Coffin,  Elisha 
Ayres,  Thomas  Harris,  Norman  Wilcox,  Timothy  Dunham,  George  Goodwin,  Shadrach 
Benham,  Samuel  Agnew,  Warham  Shepard,  David  Beard,  John  Briant,  Titus  V.  Munson, 
Joseph  Landon,  Job  V.  Stiles  and  wife,  Charles  Parker,  Ezekiel  Hawley,  Nathaniel  Doan, 
Luke  Hanchet,  James  Hasket,  James  Hamilton,  Olney  F.  Rice,  John  Lock,  and  four 
others  whose  names  are  not  mentioned. 

On  the  5th  of  July,  the  workmen  of  the  expedition  were  employed  in  the  erection  of  a 
large,  awkwardly  constructed  log  building;  locating  it'  on  the  sandy  beach  on  the  east 
shore  of  the  stream,  and  naming  it  "  Stowe  Castle,"  after  one  of  the  party.  This  became 
the  storehouse  of  the  provisions,  etc.,  and  the  dwelling-place  of  the  families.  No  perma 
nent  settlement  was  made  at  Conneaut  until  1799,  three  years  later. 

Judge  James  Kingsbury,  who  arrived  at  Conneaut  shortly  after  the  sur 
veying  party,  wintered  with  his  family  at  this  place,  in  a  cabin  which  stood 
on  a  spot  now  covered  by  the  waters  of  the  lake.  This  was  about  the  first 
family  that  wintered  on  the  Reserve. 

The  story  of  the  sufferings  of  this  family  have  often  been  told,  but  in  the  midst  of  plenty, 
where  want  is  unknown,  can  with  difficulty  be  appreciated.  The  surveyors,  in  the  prose 
cution  of  their  labors  westwardly,  had  principally  removed  their  stores  to  Cleveland,  while 
the  family  of  Judge  Kingsbury  remained  at  Conneaut.  Being  compelled  by  business  to 
leave  in  the  fall  for  the  state  of  New  York,  with  the  hope  of  a  speedy  return  to  his  family, 
the  judge  was  attacked  by  a  severe  fit  of  sickness  confining  him  to  his  bed  until  the  setting 
in  of  winter.  As  soon  as  able  he  proceeded  on  his  return  as  far  as  Buffalo,  where  he  hired 
an  Indian  to  guide  him  through  the  wilderness.  At  Presque  Isle,  anticipating  the.wanta 
of  his  family,  he  purchased  twenty  pounds  of  flour.  In  crossing  Elk  creek,  on  the  ice, 
he  disabled  his  horse,  left  him  in  the  snow,  and  mounting  his  flour  on  his  own  back,  pur 
sued  his  way,  filled  with  gloomy  forebodings  in  relation  to  the  fate  of  his  family.  On  his 
arrival  late  one  evening,  his  worst  apprehensions  were  more  than  realized  in  a  scene  ago 
nizing  to  the  husband  and  father.  Stretched  on  her  cot  lay  the  partner  of  his  cares,  who 
had  followed  him  through  all  the  dangers  and  hardships  of  the  wilderness  without  repin 
ing,  pale  and  emaciated,  reduced  by  meager  famine  to  the  last  stages  in  which  life  can  be 
supported,  and  near  the  mother,  on  a  little  pallet,  were  the  remains  of  his  youngest  child, 
born  in  his  absence,  who  had  just  expired  for  the  want  of  that  nourishment  which  the 
mother,  deprived  of  sustenance,  was  unable  to  give.  Shut  up  by  a  gloomy  wilderness,  she 


OHIO. 


175 


was  far  distant  alike  from  the  aid  or  sympathy  of  friends,  filled  with  anxiety  for  an  absent 
husband,  suffering  with  want,  and  destitute  of  necessary  assistance,  and  her  children  ex 
piring  around  her  with  hunger. 

Such  is  the  picture  presented,  by  which  the  wives  and  daughters  of  the  present  day  may 
form  some  estimate  of  the  hardships  endured  by  the  pioneers  of  this  beautiful  country.  It 
appears  that  Judge  Kingsbury,  iti  order  to  supply  the  wants  of  his  family,  was  under  the 
necessity  of  transporting  his  provisions  from  Cleveland  on  a  hand  sled,  and  that  himself 
and  hired  man  drew  a  barrel  of  beef  the  whole  distance  at  a  single  load. 

Mr.  Kingsbury  subsequently  held  several  important  judicial  and  legislative  trusts,  and 
until  within  a  few  years  since,  was  living  at  Newburg,  about  four  miles  distant  from  Cleve 
land.  He  was  the  first  who  thrust  a  sickle  into  the  first  wheat  field  planted  on  the  soil  of 
the  Reserve.  His  wife  was  interred  at  Cleveland,  about  the  year  1843.  The  fate  of  her 

child — the  first  white  child  born  on  the  Reserve,  starved  to  death  for  want  of  nourishment 

will  not  soon  be  forgotten. 


View  in  Superior-street,  Cleveland. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  Superior-street  looking  westward.  The  Weddel  House  is  seen  on  the 
right.  The  Kailroad,  Canal,  and  Cuyahoga  River,  all  pass  within  a  few  rods  westward  of  the  four  story 
building  seen  at  the  head  of  the  street. 

CLEVELAND,  the  capital  of  Cuyahoga  county,  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Erie,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  River,  is,  next  to  Cincinnati,  the  most 
commercial  city  in  the  state,  and  with  the  exception  of  Chicago,  Detroit  and 
Buffalo,  of  all  the  lake  cities.  It  has  great  natural  facilities  for  trade,  and 
is  connected  with  the  interior  and  Ohio  River  by  the  Ohio  Canal  and  several 
railroads.  The  various  railroads  terminating  here  are,  the  Cleveland  and 
Toledo,  Cleveland,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati,  Cleveland  and  Mahoning,  Cleve 
land  and  Pittsburg,  Cleveland  and  Erie,  and  Cleveland,  Zanesville  and  Cin 
cinnati.  It  has  a  good  harbor,  which  has  been  improved  by  piers  extending 
into  the  lake.  It  is  situated  135  miles  E.N.E.  from  Columbus,  255  from 
Cincinnati,  130  from  Pittsburg,  130  from  Detroit,  183  from  Buffalo,  and  455 
from  New  York.  The  location  of  the  city  is  beautiful,  being  on  a  gravelly 


176 


OHIO. 


plain  elevated  nearly  100  fee,t  above  the  lake.  The  streets  cross  each  other 
at  right  angles,  and  vary  from  80  to  120  feet  in  width.  Near  the  center  is  a 
handsome  public  square  of  10  acres.  The  private  residences  are  mostly  of 
a  superior  order,  and  in  almost  every  street  are  indications  of  wealth  and 
taste.  Euclid-street  is  an  avenue  of  extraordinary  width,  running  easterly 
from  the  city,  and  extending  for  two  miles  into  the  country.  There  is  no 
single  street  in  any  city  in  the  Union,  which  equals  it  in  the  combination  of 
elegant  private  residences,  with  beautiful  shrubbery  and  park  like  grounds. 
The  unusual  amount  of  trees  and  shrubbery  in  Cleveland  has  given  it  the 
appellation  of  "the  Forest  City:"  it  is  a  spot  where  "town  and  country  ap 
pear  to  have  met  and  shaken  hands."  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  also 
supplied  with  the  very  best  of  water  from  the  lake.  The  manufactures  of 
the  city  are  extensive  and  important,  consisting  of  steam  engines  and  various 
kinds  of  machinery,  mill  irons,  stoves,  plows,  carriages,  cabinet  ware,  edge 
tools,  copper  smelting  works,  woolen  goods,  tanning  and  the  manufacture  of 
oils.  The  agricultural  products  of  the  interior  of  the  state  are  forwarded 
here  in  large  quantities,  which  are  reshipped  for  eastern  or  European  mar 
kets.  Ship  and  steamboat  building  is  also  carried  on  to  a  considerable  ex 
tent.  The  lumber  trade  is  one  of  great  prominence.  The  packing  of  beef 
and  pork  is  largely  carried  on.  The  wholesale  and  jobbing  business  in  the 
various  mercantile  departments  is  increasing  daily. 

Cleveland  has  2  medical  colleges,  one  of  which  is  the  Western  Reserve 
Medical  College,  the  other  is  of  the  Homeopathic  school,  a  fine  female  sem 
inary  on  Kinsman's-street,  2  Roman  Catholic  convents,  and  a  variety  of  be 
nevolent  institutions.  Ohio  City,  on  the  west  side  of  the  city,  formerly  a 
separate  corporation,  is  now  comprised  in  Cleveland.  Population,  in  1796, 
3;  1798,  16;  1825,  500;  1840,  6,071;  1850,17,034;  and  in  I860,  it  was 
43,550. 

As  early  as  1755,  there  was  a  French  station  within  the  present  limits  of  Cuya- 
hoga  county,  that  in  which  Cleveland  is  situated.  On  Lewis  Evans'  map  of  the 

middle  British  colonies,  published 
that  year,  there  is  marked  upon  the 
west  bank  of  the  Cuyahoga,  the 
words,  "French  house,"  which  was 
doubtless  the  station  of  a  French 
trader.  The  ruins  of  a  house  sup 
posed  to  be  those  of  the  one  alluded 
to,  have  been  discovered  on  Foot's 
farm,  in  Brooklyn  township,  about 
five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Cuyahoga.  The  small  engraving  an 
nexed,  is  from  the  map  of  Evans,  and 
delineates  the  geography  as  in  the 
original. 

In  1786,  the  Moravian  missionary 
Zeisberger,  with  his  Indian  converts, 
left  Detroit,  and  arrived  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Cuyahoga,  in  a  vessel  called 
the  Mackinaw.  From  thence,  they 
proceeded  up  the  river  about  ten  miles  from  the  site  of  Cleveland,  and  settled  in 
an  abandoned  village  of  the  Ottawas,  within  the  present  limits  of  Independence, 
which  they  called  Pilgerruh,  i.  e.  Pilgrim! s  rest.  Their  stay  was  brief,  for  in  the 
April  following,  they  left  for  Huron  River,  and  settled  near  the  site  of  Milan,  Erie 
county,  at  a  locality  they  named  New  Salem. 

The  British,  who,  after  the  revolutionary  war,  refused  to  yield  possession  of  the 
lake  country  west  of  the  Cuyahoga,  occupied  to  its  shores  until  1790.  Their  tra- 


OHIO. 


ders  had  a  house  in  Ohio  City,  north  of  the  Detroit  road,  on  the  point  of  the  hill, 
near  the  river,  when  the  surveyors  first  arrived  here  in  1796.  From  an  early  day 
Washington,  Jefferson  and  other  leading  Virginia  statesmen  regarded  the  mouth' 
of  the  Cuyahoga  as  an  important  commercial  position. 

The  city  was  originally  comprised  in  lands  purchased  by  the  Connecticut  Land 


of  forty -eight  assistants.  On  July  22, 1796,  Gen.  Cleveland,  accompanied  by  Agus- 
tus  Porter,  the  principal  of  the  surveying  department,  and  several  others,  entered 
the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  from  the  lake,  but  as  they  were  engaged  in  making  a 
traverse,  they  continued  their  progress  to  Sandusky  Bay.  In  the  interim,  Job  P. 
Stiles  and  his  wife  and  Joseph  Tinker  arrived  in  a  boat  with  provisions,  and  were 
employed  in  constructing  a  house  about  half  way  from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the 
shore  of  the  river,  a  short  distance  north  of  Main  (Superior)  street.  On  the  re 
turn  of  the  party  from  Sandusky,  they  surveyed  and  made  a  plat  of  the  present 
city  of  Cleveland. 

The  first  building  erected  in  Cleveland,  is  supposed  to  have  been  in  1786,  by  Col. 
James  Hillman,  of  Youngstown,  Mahoning  county,  who  was  engaged  in  conveying 
flour  and  bacon  from  Pittsburg  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga,  for  the  use  of  the 
British  army  in  the  upper  lakes.  He  visited  the  site  of  Cleveland  six  times,  and 
on  one  occasion  caused  a  small  cabin  to  be  erected  "near  a  spring  in  the  hill  side, 
within  a  short  distance  of  what  is  now  the  western  termination  of  Superior-street." 
It  is  probable  that  Stiles  and  Tinker  availed  themselves  of  this  site,  and  possibly 
it  furnished  a  part  of  the  materials  to  erect  their  hut. 

In  the  winter  of  1 796—7,  the  population  consisted  of  three  inhabitants.  Early 
in  the  spring  of  1797,  James  Kingsbury  and  family,  from  New  England,  and  Elijah 
Gunn  removed  to  Cleveland.  The  next  families  who  came  here  were  those  of  Maj. 
Carter  and  Ezekiel  Hawley,  from  Kirtland,  the  family  of  the  major  being  accom 
panied  by  Miss  Cloe  Inches.  In  the  spring  of  the  following  year  (1798),  Maj.  Car 
ter  sowecl  two  acres  of  corn  on  the  west  side  of  Water*street  He  was  the  first 
person  who  erected  a  frame  building  in  the  city,  which  he  completed  in  1802.  On 
the  1st  of  July,  1797,  William  Clement  was  married  to  Cloe  Inches.  The  ceremony 
of  this  first  marriage  was  performed  by  Seth  Hart,  who  was  regarded  by  the  sur 
veying  party  as  their  chaplain.  In  1799,  Rodolphus  Edwards  and  Nathaniel  Doane 
with  their  families,  emigrated  from  Chatham,  Conn.,  to  Cleveland,  being  ninety-two 
days  on  their  journey.  In  the  autumn  of  this  year,  the  whole  colony,  without  ex 
ception,  were  afflicted  with  the  fever  and  ague. 

The  following  historical  items  were  taken  from  the  Traveler,  and  pub 
lished  in  the  Cleveland  Weekly  Herald,  Jan.  5,  1859 : 

The  first  city  school  was  held  in  Maj.  Carter's  house  in  1802,  and  the  children 
were  taught  by  Anna  Spafford.  The  first  postoffice  was  established  here  in  1804, 
when  letters  were  received  and  transmitted  every  seven  days.  In  the  same  year 
the  first  militia  training  occurred.  The  place  of  rendezvous  was  Doane's  corner, 
and  the  muster  amounted  to  about  fifty  men.  In  1805,  the  harbor  was  made  a 
port  of  entry,  and  classed  within  the  Erie  district.  In  the  same  year  the  territory 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Cuyahoga  was  ceded  to  the  states  by  treaty.  In  1809,  Joel 
Thorpe  and  Amos  Simpson  each  built  a  boat  at  Newberg,  of  six  or  seven  tuns,  and 
conveyed  them  in  wagons  to  the  harbor,  where  they  were  launched.  The  first 
judicial  trial  took  place  in  1812.  It  was  held  in  the  open  air,  beneath  the  shade 
of  a  cherry  tree,  which  then  stood  at  the  corner  of  Water  and  Superior-streets :  it 
being  a  charge  of  murder  against  an  Indian,  called  John  O'Mic,  who  was  convicted 
and  executed.  A  court  house  was  erected  this  year  on  the  public  square,  opposite 
the  place  where  the  stone  church  now  stands.  It  was  an  unique  structure;  dun 
geons  were  excavated  underneath  fora  cityjaiL  In  1815,  Cleveland  was  incor 
porated  with  a  village  charter,  and  Alfred  Kelley  was  the  first  president.  Mr. 
Kelley  was  the  first  attorney  in  Cleveland.  The  first  brick  house  in  the  city  was 
that  of  J.  R.  and  J.  Kelley,  in  1814,  in  Superior-street  This  edifice  was  soon  suc 
ceeded  by  another,  built  by  Alfred  Kelley,  still  standing  in  Water-street.  In  1816, 

12 


178 


OHIO. 


the  first  bank  was  established  in  the  city,  under  the  title  of  the  "  Commercial  Bank 
of  Lake  Erie."  The  number  of  vessels  enrolled  as  hailing  this  year  from  Cleve 
land  was  but  seven,  and  their  aggregate  burden  430  tuns.  In  1817,  the  first  church 
was  organized,  which  was  the  Episcopal  church  of  Trinity.  On  July  31,  1818,  the 
first  newspaper,  "The  Cleveland  Gazette  and  Commercial  Register"  was  issued. 
On  the  1st  of  Sept.,  the  same  year,  steamed  in  the  "  Walk-in-the- Water,"  the  first 
steamboat  which  entered  the  harbor.  It  was  commanded  by  Capt.  Fish,  hailed 
from  Buffalo,  and  was  on  its  way  to  Detroit. 

In  1819.  Mr.  Barber  built  a  log  hut  on  the  west  side  of  the  harbor,  and  may  be 
considered  as  the  first  permanent  settler  in  Ohio  City.  The  first  Presbyterian 
church  was  organized  in  1820,  and  the  stone  church  was  erected  on  the  public 
square  in  1834.  In  1821,  the  first  Sunday  school  was  established  in  Cleveland, 
which  was  attended  by  twenty  scholars.  In  1825,  an  appropriation  of  $5,000  was 
made  by  the  government  for  the  improvement  of  the  harbor,  and  during  this  year 
the  first  steamboat  was  built  here,  and  the  Ohio  Canal  commenced.  In  1827,"  the 
Cuyahoga  Furnace  Company  commenced  their  manufactory,  being  the  first  iron 
works  erected  in  the  city.  In  1830,  the  light  house  was  built  at  the  termination  of 
Water-street,  the  lantern  of  which  is  135  feet  above  the  water  level.  In  1832,  the 
Ohio  Canal  was  completed.  It  had  occupied  seven  years  in  its  construction,  is  307 
miles  in  length,  and  cost  $5,000,000.  In  1836,  Cleveland  was  incorporated  a  city: 
the  first  mayor  was  John  Willey.  In  1840,  the  population  had  increased  to  6,071 ; 
in  1845,  to  12,206.  In  1851,  Feb.  23d,  the  Cleveland,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati 
Railroad  was  opened  for  travel,  and  on  the  same  day,  forty  miles  of  the  Cleveland 
and  Pittsburg  Railroad  were  likewise  completed.  Population,  this  year,  21,140. 
The  United  States  Marine  Hospital,  on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  was  completed  in 
1852;  it  was  commenced  in  1844. 


The  view  show«  the  ai 
of  the  Ferry  landings, 
on  the  left. 


Eastern  view  of  Toledo. 

>earance  of  part  of  Tolwlo,  as  aeen  from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Maumee,  at  one 
?he  Island  House,  the  Union  Passenger  Depot,  and  the  Telegraph  Station  appear 


TOLEDO,  is  a  city  and  port  of  entry,  in  Lucas  county,  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Maumee,  4  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  10  miles  from  Lake  Erie, 
134  miles  N.W.  of  Columbus,  66  S.S.W.  of  Detroit,  and  100  W.  of  Cleve 
land,  and  246,  by  canal,  N.  of  Cincinnati.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Wabash 
and  Erie  Canal,  the  longest  in  the  Union ;  also  of  the  Miami  and  Erie  Canal. 


no 

It  is  the  port  of  north-eastern  Indiana,  and  of  a  large  region  in  north-western 
Ohio.  It  is  eminently  a  commercial  town,  has  not  only  great  natural  fa 
cilities,  but  has  also  communication  by  canals  and  railroads  in  all  direc 
tions. 

The  Michigan  Southern  Railroad  and  the  air-line  railroad  passing  through 
northern  Indiana,  the  Toledo,  Wabash  and  Western  Road,  the  Toledo  and 
Detroit  Road,  the  northern  and  southern  divisions  of  the  Cleveland  and  To 
ledo  Road,  and  the  Dayton  and  Michigan  Road,  all  terminate  here  in  a  com 
mon  center  at  the  Union  Depot.  The  river  is  about  half  a  mile  wide  here, 
and  forms  a  harbor  admitting  the  largest  lake  vessels.  Population  in  1860 
13,784. 

Toledo  covers  the  site  of  a  stockade  fort,  called  Fort  Industry,  erected 
about  the  year  1800,  near  what  is  now  Summit-street.  The  site  of  the  town 
originally  was  two  distinct  settlements — the  upper,  Port  Lawrence,  the  low,er, 
Vistula. 

In  the  summer  of  1832,  Vistula,  under  the  impetus  given  it  by  Captain 
Samuel  Allen,  from  Lockport,  N.  Y.,  and  Major  Stickney,  made  quite  a 
noise  as  a  promising  place  for  a  town.  At  the  same  time  arrangements  were 
being  made  by  Major  Oliver  and  Micajah  T.  Williams,  of  Cincinnati,  with 
Daniel  0.  Comstock  and  Stephen  B.  Comstock,  brothers,  from  Lockport,  for 
the  resuscitation  of  Port  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  Swan  creek.  The  Coin- 
stocks  took  an  interest,  and  became  the  agents  of  the  Port  Lawrence  prop 
erty. 

No  sales  of  any  importance  were  made  before  1833.  In  Vistula,  the  first 
store  was  started  by  Mr.  E.  Briggs ;  W.  J.  Daniels  was  his  clerk.  Soon  after 
Flagg  &  Bissell  opened  a  more  extensive  store  of  goods — probably  the  first 
good  assortment  for  the  use  of  white  people.  In  1833,  not  much  progress 
was  made  toward  building  a  town  in  Vistula  or  Port  Lawrence.  In  1834, 
speculation  in  lots  began,  and  with  slight  intermission  continued  until  the 
spring  of  1837.  Mr.  Edward  Bissell,  from  Lockport,  a  man  of  enterprise 
and  activity,  became  a  part  owner,  and  gave  a  great  impetus  to  the  growth 
of  Vistula.  Through  him  and  the  Port  Lawrence  owners,  many  men  of  in 
fluence  became  interested  in  the  new  towns.  Among  these,  Judge  Mason, 
from  Livingston  county,  N.  Y.,  deserves  mention,  as  he  became  agent  of 
Mr.  Bissell  and  the  other  chief  owners,  and  made  Vistula  his  place  of  resi 
dence. 

In  Port  Lawrence  the  first  Toledo  steamer  was  built,  and  called  the  De 
troit.  She  was  of  one  hundred  arid  twenty  tuns,  and  commanded  by  Capt. 
Baldwin,  son  of  a  sea  captain  of  that  name,  who  was  one  of  the  earliest  set 
tlers  in  that  place. 

In  1836,  ^oledo  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  The  same  year  the  Wabash 
and  Erie  Canal  was  located,  but  was  not  so  fur  finished  as  to  make  its  busi 
ness  felt  until  1845,  when  the  Miami  and  Erie  Canal  was  opened  through 
from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Ohio,  at  Cincinnati. 

In  1835,  Toledo  was  the  center  of  the  military  operations  in  the  "  Ohio  and 
Michigan  war" — originating  in  the  boundary  dispute  between  the  two  states.  The 
militia  of  both  states  were  called  out  and  marched  to  the  disputed  territory,  under 
their  respective  governors — Lucas,  of  Ohio,  and  Mason,  of  Michigan.  No  blood 
was  shed,  although,  at  one  time,  serious  results  were  threatened.  Michigan  claimed 
a  narrow  strip  on  her  southern  border  of  eight  miles  wide,  which  brought  Toledo 
into  that  state.  The  matter  was  referred  to  congress,  who  ceded  to  Michigan  the 
large  peninsula  between  Lakes  Huron,  Superior  and  Michigan,  now  known  as  the 
copper  region  in  lieu  of  the  territory  in  dispute. 


180 


OHIO. 


PLAN   ILLUSTRATING    THE   BATTLES   OF   THE   MAUMEE. 


[Explanations. — The  map  shows 
about  eight  miles  of  the  country  along 
each  side  of  the  Maumee,  including 
the  towns  of  Perrysburg,  Maumee 
City  and  Waterville. 

Just  previous  to  the  battle  of  the 
Fallen  Timbers,  in  August,  1794, 
Wayne's  army  was  encamped  at  a  lo 
cality  called  Roche  de  Bo&uf,  a  short 
distance  above  the  present  site  of 
Waterville.  The  battle  commenced  at 
the  Presque  Isle  hill.  The  routed  In 
dians  were  pursued  to  even  under  the 
guns  of  the  British  Fort  Miami. 

fort  Meigs,  memorable  from  having 
sustained  two  sieges  in  the  year  1813, 
is  shown  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mau 
mee,  with  the  British  batteries  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  and  near  the  Brit 
ish  fort,  is  the  site  of  Proctor  s  en 
campment^ 


The  Maumee  Valley  in  whioh  Tole 
do  is  situated,  is  noted  in  the  early  his 
tory  of  the  country.  It  was  a  favorite 
point  with  the  Indians,  particularly 
that  part  in  the  vicinity  of  the  vil 
lages  of  Maumee  City  and  Perrysburg, 
about  nine  miles  south  of  Toledo.  As 
early  as  1680,  the  French  had  a  trading 
station  just  below  the  site  of  Maumee 
City;  and  in  1794,  the  British  built 
Fort  Miami  on  the  same  spot.  This 
was  within  American  territory,  and 
from  this  point  the  British  traders  in 
stigated  the  Indians  to  outrages  upon 
the  American  settlements.  Two  im 
portant  events  occurred  in  this  vicinity 
— the  victory  of  Wayne,  August  20, 
1794,  and  the  siege  of  Fort  Meigs, 
in  the  war  of  1812. 

Wayne's  battle  ground  is  about  three 
miles  south  of  Maumee  City,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river.  He  approached 
from  the  south,  having  with  him  about 
three  thousand  men,  of  whom  sixteen 
hundred  were  Kentuckians  under  Gen. 

Scott.     From  Wayne's  official  report  we  make  the  annexed  extract,  which 

contains  the  principal  points  of  this  important  victory: 

The  legion  was  on  the  right,  its  flanks  covered  by  the  Maumee  :  one  brigade  of 


181 

mounted  volunteers  on  the  left,  under  Brig.  Gen.  Todd,  and  the  other  in  the  rear, 
under  Brig.  Gen.  Barbee.  A  select  battalion  of  mounted  volunteers  moved  in  front 
of  the  legion,  commanded  by  Major  Price,  who  was  directed  to  keep  sufficiently 
advanced,  so  as  to  give  timely  notice  for  the  troops  to  form  in  case  of  action,  it  be 
ing  yet  undetermined  whether  the  Indians  would  decide  for  peace  or  war. 

After  advancing  about  five  miles, 
Major  Price's  corps  received  so 
severe  a  fire  from  the  enemy,  who 
were  secreted  in  the  woods  and 
high  grass,  as  to  compel  them  to 
retreat.  The  legion  was  immedi 
ately  formed  in  two  lines,  princi 
pally  in  a  close  thick  wood,  which 
extended  for  miles  on  our  left,  and 
for  a  very  considerable  distance 
in  front;  the  ground  being  cov 
ered  with  old  fallen  timber",  prob 
ably  occasioned  by  a  tornado, 

which  rendered  it  impracticable 
WAVE'S  BATTLK  GHOUND.  fop  ^  cayalry  to  ^  P.^  ^ 

The  view  is  from  the  north,  showing  on  the  left  the  Mau-      and  afforded   the  enemy  the  most 
mee  and  in  front  Presque  Isle  Hill.     On  the  right  by  the  road-       fo  vnrnhlp  pnvprf  fnr  fJtalv  mnrlo  r.f 

eide,  is  the  noted  Turkey  Foot  Kock.*  lavoraDle  covert  tor  their  mode  of 

warfare.  The  savages  were  form 
ed  in  three  lines,  within  supporting  distance  of  each  other,  and  extending  for  near 
two  miles  at  right  angles  with  the  river.  I  soon  discovered,  from  the  weight  of 
the  fire  and  extent  of  their  lines,  that  the  enemy  were  in  full  force  in  front,  in 
possession  of  their  favorite  ground,  and  endeavoring  to  turn  our  left  flank.  I  there 
fore  gave  orders  for  the  second  line  to  advance  and  support  the  first ;  and  directed 
Major  General  Scott  to  gain  and  turn  the  right  flank  of  the  savages,  with  the  whole 
force  of  the  mounted  volunteers,  by  a  circuitous  route ;  at  the  same  time  1  ordered 
the  front  line  to  advance  and  charge  with  trailed  arms,  and  rouse  the  Indians 
from  their  coverts  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  when  up,  to  deliver  a  close  and 
well-directed  fire  on  their  backs,  followed  by  a  brisk  charge,  so  as  not  to  give  them 
time  to  load  again. 

I  also  ordered  Captain  Mis  Campbell,  who  commanded  the  legionary  cavalry,  to 
turn  the  left  flank  of  the  enemy  next  the  river,  and  which  afforded  a  favorable 
field  for  that  corps  to  act  in.  All  these  orders  were  obeyed  with  spirit  and  prompt 
itude  ;  but  such  was  the  impetuosity  of  the  charge  by  the  first  line  of  infantry,  that 
the  Indians  and  Canadian  militia  and  volunteers  were  driven  from  all  their  coverts 
in  so  short  a  time,  that  although  etery  possible  exertion  was  used  by  the  officers 
of  the  second  line  of  the  legion,  and  by  Generals  Scott,  Todd  and  Barbee,  of  the 
mounted  volunteers,  to  gain  their  proper  positions,  but  part  of  each  could  get  up  in 
season  to  participate  in  the  action ;  the  enemy  being  driven,  in  the  course  of  one 
hour,  more  than  two  miles  through  the  thick  woods  already  mentioned,  by  less  than 
one  half  their  numbers.  From  every  account  the  enemy  amounted  to  two  thousand 
combatants.  The  troops  actually  engaged  against  them  were  short  of  nine  hun 
dred.  This  horde  of  savages,  with  their  allies,  abandoned  themselves  to  flight,  and 
dispersed  with  terror  and  dismay,  leaving  our  victorious  army  in  full  and  quiet  pos 
session  of  the  field  of  battle,  which  terminated  under  the  influence  of  the  guns  of 
the  British  garrison. 

The  loss  of  the  enemy  was  more  than  that  of  the  federal  army.     The  woods  were 

*At  this  spot  says  tradition,  an  Indian  chief  named  Turkey  Foot,  rallied  a  few  of  his 
men  and  stood  upon  it  fighting  until  his  strength  becoming  exhausted  from  loss  of  blood,  he 
fell  and  breathed  his  last.  Upon  it  have  been  carved  by  the  Indians,  representations  of  tur 
key's  feet,  now  plainly  to  be  seen,  and  it  is  said  "the  early  settlers  of  and  travelers  through  the 
Maumee  valley,  usually  found  many  small  pieces  of  tobacco  deposited  on  this  rock,  which 
had  been  placed  there  by  the  Indians  as  devotional  acts,  by  way  of  sacrifices,  to  appease 
the  indignant  spirit  of  the  departed  hero." 


182  OHIO. 

strewed  for  a  considerable  distance  with  the  dead  bodies  of  Indians  and  their  white 
auxiliaries,  the  latter  armed  with  British  muskets  and  bayonets. 

We  remained  three  days  and  nights  on  the  banks  of  the  Maumee,  in  front  of  the 
field  of  battle,  during  which  time  all  the  houses  and  corn-fields  were  consumed 
and  destroyed  for  a  considerable  distance,  both  above  and  below  Fort  Miami,  as 
well  as  within  pistol-shot  of  the  garrison,  who  were  compelled  to  remain  tacit  spec 
tators  to  this  general  devastation  and  conflagration,  among  which  were  the  houses, 
stores  and  property  of  Colonel  M'Kee,  the  British  Indian  agent  and  principal  stim 
ulator  of  the  war  now  existing  between  the  United  States  and  the  savages. 

The  loss  of  the  Americans  in  this  battle,  was  33  killed  and  100  wounded,  inclu 
ding  5  officers  among  the  killed,  and  19  wounded.  One  of  the  Canadians  taken  in 
the  action,  estimated  the  force  of  the  Indians  at  about  1400.  He  also  stated  that 
about  70  Canadians  were  with  them,  and  that  Col.  M'Kee,  Capt.  Elliott  and  Simon 
Girty  were  in  the  field,  but  at  a  respectable  distance,  and  near  the  river. 

When  the  broken  remains  of  the  Indian  army  were  pursued  under  the  British 
fort,  the  soldiers  could  scarcely  be  restrained  from  storming  it.  This,  independent 
of  its  results  in  bringing  on  a  war  with  Great  Britain,  would  have  been  a  desper 
ate  measure,  as  the  fort  mounted  10  pieces  of  artillery,  and  was  garrison  by  450 
men,  while  Wayne  had  no  armament  proper  to  attack  such  a  strongly  fortified  place. 
While  the  troops  remained  in  the  vicinity,  there  did  not  appear  to  be  any  commu 
nication  between  the  garrison  and  the  savages.  The  gates  were  shut 'against  them, 
and  their  rout  and  slaughter  witnessed  with  apparent  unconcern  by  the  British. 
That  the  Indians  were  astonished  at  the  lukewarmness  of  their  real  allies,  and  re 
garded  the  fort,  in  case  of  defeat,  as  a  place  of  refuge,  is  evident  from  various  cir 
cumstances,  not  the  least  of  which  was  the  well  known  reproach  of  Tecumseh,  in 
his  celebrated  speech  to  Proctor,  after  Perry's  victory.  The  near  approach  of  the 
troops  drew  forth  a  remonstrance  from  Major  Campbell,  the  British  commandant, 
to  General  Wayne.*  A  sharp  correspondence  ensued,  but  without  any  special  re 
sults.  The  morning  before  the  army  left,  General  Wayne,  after  arranging  his  force 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  show  that  they  were  all  on  the  alert,  advanced  with  his  nu 
merous  staff  and  a  small  body  of  cavalry,  to  the  glacis  of  the  British  fort,  recon- 
noitering  it  with  great  deliberation,  while  the  garrison  were  seen  with  lighted 
matches,  prepared  for  any  emergency.  It  is  said  that  Wayne's  party  overheard 
one  of  the  British  subordinate  officers  appeal  to  Major  Campbell,  for  permission  to 
fire  upon  the  cavalcade,  and  avenge  such  an  insulting  parade  under  his  majesty's 
guns;  but  that  officer  chided  him  with  the  abrupt  exclamation,  "be  a  gentleman  ! 
be  a  gentleman  /"f 

After  the  defeat  and  massacre  of  the  Kentuckians  under  Winchester  at  the 
River  Raisin,  near  the  site  of  Monroe,  Michigan,  in  February,  1813,  Gen. 
Harrison  commander-in-chief  of  the  army  of  the  north-west,  established  his 
advance  post  at  the  foot  of  the  Maumee  Rapids  and  erected  a  fort,  subse 
quently  named  Meigs,  in  honor  of  Governor  Meigs. 

"On  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  in  Lake  Erie,  General  Proctor,  with  all  his  dispo 
sable  force,  consisting  of  regulars  and  Canadian  militia  from  Maiden,  and  a  large 
body  of  Indians  under  their  celebrated  chief,  Tecumseh,  amounting  in  the  whole 
to  two  thousand  men,  laid  siege  to  Fort  Meigs.  To  encourage  the  Indians,  he  had 

#Gen.  Wayne  was  a  man  of  most  ardent  impulses,  and  in  the  heat  of  action  apt  to  forget 
that  he  was  the  general — not  the  soldier.  When  the  attack  on  the  Indians  who  were  con 
cealed  behind  the  fallen  timbers,  was  commencing  by  ordering  the  regulars  up,  the  late  Gen. 
Harrison,  then  aid  to  Wayne,  being  lieutenant  with  the  title  of  major,  addressed  his  superi 
or — "Gen.  Wayne,  I  am  afraid  you  will  get  into  the  fight  yourself,  and  forget  to  give  me 
the  necessary  field  orders."  "Perhaps  I  may,  replied  Wayne,  "and  if  I  do,  recollect  the 
standing  order  for  the  day  is,  charge  the  rascals  with  the  bayonet." 

|  That  the  Indian  war  was  in  a  great  measure  sustained  by  British  influences,  admits  of 
ample  proof.  Gen.  Harrison,  in  his  letter  to  Hon.  Thomas  Chilton,  shows  this  from  his  own 
personal  observation,  and  concludes  it  with  this  sentence.  "If  then  the  relation  I  have  giv 
en  is  correct,  the  war  of  the  revolution  continued  in  the  western  country,  until  the  peace  of  Green 
ville,  in  1795." 


183 

promised  them  an  easy  conquest,  and  assured  them  that  General  Harrison  should 
be  delivered  up  to  Tecuinseh.  On  the  26th  of  April,  the  British  columns  appeared 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  established  their  principal  batteries  on  a 
commanding  eminence  opposite  the  fort.  On  the  27th,  the  Indians  crossed  the 
river,  and  established  themselves  in  the  rear  of  the  American  lines.  The  o-arrison 
not  having  completed  their  wells,  had  no  water  except  what  they  obtained  from  the 
river,  under  a  constant  firing  of  the  enemy.  On  the  first,  second,  and  third  of  May 
their  batteries  kept  up  an  incessant  shower  of  balls  and  shells  upon  the  fort.  On 
the  night  of  the  third,  the  British  erected  a  gun  and  morter  battery  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  within  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  the  American  lines.  The  Indi 
ans  climbed  the  trees  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  fort,  and  poured  in  a  galling  fire 
upon  the  garrison.  In  this  situation  General  Harrison  received  a  summons  frum 
Proctor  for  a  surrender  of  the  garrison,  greatly  magnifying  his  means  of  annoy 
ance;  this  was  answered  by  a  prompt  refusal,  assuring  the  British  general  that  if 
he  obtained  possession  of  the  fort,  it  would  not  be  by  capitulation.  Apprehensive 
of  such  an  attack,  General  Harrrison  had  made  the  governors  of  Kentucky  and 
Ohio  minutely  acquainted  with  his  situation,  and  stated  to  them  the  necessity  of 
reinforcements  for  the  relief  of  Fort  Meigs.  His  requisitions  had  been  zealously 
anticipated,  and  General  Clay  was  at  this  moment  descending  the  Miami  with  twelve 
hundred  Kentuckians  for  his  relief. 

"At  twelve  o'clock  in  the  night  of  the  fourth,  an  officer*  arrived  from  General 
Clay,  with  the  welcome  intelligence  of  his  approach,  stating  that  he  was  just  above 
the  rapids,  and  could  reach  them  in  two  hours,  and  requesting  his  orders.  Harri 
son  determined  on  a  general  sally,  and  directed  Clay  to  land  eight  hundred  men  on 
the  right  bank,  take  possession  of  the  British  batteries,  spike  their  cannon,  imme 
diately  return  to  their  boats,  and  cross  over  to  the  American  fort.  The  remainder 
of  Clay's  force  were  ordered  to  land  on  the  left  bank,  and  fight  their  way  to  the 
fort,  while  sorties  were  to  be  made  from  the  garrison  in  aid  of  these  operations. 
Captain  Hamilton  was  directed  to  proceed  up  the  river  in  a  pirogue,  land  a  sub 
altern  on  the  left  bank,  who  should  be  a  pilot  to  conduct  Gen.  Clay  to  the  fort:  and 
then  cross  over  and  station  his  pirogue  at  the  place  designated  for  the  other  di 
vision  to  land.  General  Clay,  having  received  these  orders,  descended  the  river  in 
order  of  battle  in  solid  columns,  each  officer  taking  position  according  to  his  rank. 
Col.  Dudley,  being  the  eldest  in  command,  led  the  van,  and  was  ordered  to  take  the 
men  in  the  twelve  front  boats,  and  execute  General  Harrison's  orders  on  the  right 
bank.  He  effected  his  landing  at  the  place  designated,  without  difficulty.  General 
Clay  kept  close  along  the  left  bank  until  he  came  opposite  the  place  of  Col.  Dudley's 
landing,  but  not  finding  the  subaltern  there,  he  attempted  to  cross  over  and  join 
Col.  Dudley;  this  was  prevent  by  the  violence  of  the  current  on  the  rapids,  and  he 
again  attempted  to  land  on  the  left  bank,  and  effected  it,  with  only  fifty  men  amid 
a  brisk  fire  from  the  enemy  on  shore,  and  made  their  way  to  the  fort,  receiving  their 
fire  until  within  the  protection  of  its  guns.  The  other  boats  under  the  command 
of  Col.  Boswell,  were  driven  further  down  the  current,  and  landed  on  the  right 
to  join  Col.  Dudley.  Here  they  were  ordered  to  re-embark,  land  on  the  left  bank, 
and  proceed  to  the  fort  In  the  mean  time  two  sorties  were  made  from  the  garri- 
eon,  one  on  the  left,  in  aid  of  Col.  Boswell,  by  which  the  Canadian  militia  arid  In 
dians  were  defeated,  and  he  was  enabled  to  reach  the  fort  in  safety,  and  one  on  the 
right  against  the  British  batteries,  which  was  also  successful." 

"Col.  Dudley,  with  his  detachment  of  eight  hundred  Kentucky  militia,  complete- 

*This  messenger  was  Capt.  William  Oliver,  post  master  at  Cincinnati  in  Taylor's  admin 
istration,  then  a  young  man,  noted  for  his  heroic  bravery.  He  had  previously  been  sent 
from  the  fort  at  a  time  when  it  was  surrounded  by  Indians,  through  the  wilderness,  with 
instructions  to  General  Clay.  His  return  to  the  fort  was  extremely  dangerous.  Capt.  Les 
lie  Coombs,  now  of  Lexington,  Ky.,  had  been  sent  by  Col.  Dudley  to  communicate  with  Har 
rison.  He  approached  the  fort,  and  when  within  about  a  mile,  was  attacked  by  the  Indiana 
and  after  a  gallant  resistance  was  foiled  in  his  object  and  obliged  to  retreat  with  the  loss  of 
nearly  all  of  his  companions.  Oliver  managed  to  get  into  the  fort  through  the  cover  of  the 
darkness  of  the  night,  by  which  he  eluded  the  vigilance  of  Tecumseh  and  his  Indians,  who 
were  very  watchful-and  had  closely  invested  it. 


184  OHIO. 

ly  succeeded  in  driving  the  British  from  their  batteries,  and  spiking  the  cannon. 
Having  accomplished  this  object,  his  orders  were  peremptory  to  return  immedi 
ately  to  his  boats  and  cross  over  to  the  fort :  but  the  blind  confidence  which  gener 
ally  attends  militia  when  successful,  proved  their  ruin.  Although  repeatedly  or 
dered  by  Col.  Dudley,  and  warned  of  their  danger,  and  called  upon  from  the  fort  to 
leave  the  ground;  and  although  there  was  abundant  time  for  that  purpose,  before 
the  British  reinforcements  arrived;  yet  they  commenced  a  pursuit  of  the  Indians, 
and  suffered  themselves  to  be  drawn  into  an  ambuscade  by  some  feint  skirmishing, 
while  the  British  troops  and  large  bodies  of  Indians  were  brought  up,  and  inter 
cepted  their  return  to  the  river.  Elated  with  their  first  success,  they  considered 
the  victory  already  gained  and  pursued  the  enemy  nearly  two  miles  into  the  woods 
and  swamps,  where  they  were  suddenly  caught  in  a  defile  and  surrounded  by 
double  their  numbers.  Finding  themselves  in  this  situation,  consternation  pre 
vailed  ;  their  line  became  broken  and  disordered,  and  huddled  together  in  unre 
sisting  crowds,  they  were  obliged  to  surrender  to  the  mercy  of  the  savages.  For 
tunately  for  these  unhappy  victims  of  their  own  rashness,  General  Tecumseh  com 
manded  at  this  ambuscade,  and  had  imbibed  since  his  appointment  more  humane 
feelings  than  his  brother  Proctor.  After  the  surrender,  and  all  resistance  had 
ceased,  the  Indians,  finding  five  hundred  prisoners  at  their  mercy,  began  the  work 
of  massacre  with  the  most  savage  delight.  Tecumseh  sternly  forbade  it,  and  buried 
his  tomahawk  in  the  head  of  one  of  his  chiefs  who  refused  obedience.  This  order 
accompanied  with  this  decisive  manner  of  enforcing  it,  put  an  end  to  the  massacre. 
Of  eight  hundred  men  only  one  hundred  and  fifty  escaped.  The  residue  were  slain 
or  made  prisoners.  Col.  Dudley  was  severely  wounded  in  the  action,  and  after 
ward  tomahawked  and  scalped.* 

#This  defeat  was  occasioned  by  the  impetuous  valor  of  his  men.  In  one  of  the  general 
orders  after  the  5th  of  May,  Harrison  takes  occasion  to  warn  his  men  against  that  rash 
bravery  which  he  says  "  is  characteristic  of  the  Kentucky  troops,  and  if  persisted  in  is  as  fatal 
in  its  results  as  cowardice." 

After  Dudley  had  spiked  the  batteries,  which  had  but  few  defenders,  some  of  his  men 
loitered  about  the  banks  and  filled  the  air  with  cheers.  Harrison,  and  a  group  of  officers, 
who  were  anxiously  watching  them  from  the  grand  battery,  with  a  presentiment  of  the  hor 
rible  fate  that  awaited  them,  earnestly  beckoned  them  to  return.  Supposing  they  were  re 
turning  their  cheers,  they  reiterated  their  shouts  of  triumph.  Harrison  seeing  this,  ex 
claimed  in  tones  of  anguish,  "  they  are  lost  I  they  are  lost! — can  I  never  get  men  to  obey  my 
orders?  "  He  then  offered  a  reward  of  a  thousand  dollars  to  any  man  who  would  cross  the 
river  and  apprise  Col.  Dudley  of  his  danger.  This  was  undertaken  by  an  officer,  but  he 
was  too  late. 

Hon.  Joseph  B.  Underwood,  then  a  lieutenant,  has  given  some  extremely  interesting  de 
tails  of  the  horrible  scenes  which  ensued  ;  says  he: 

"  On  our  approach  to  tne  old  garrison,  the  Indians  formed  a  line  to  the  left  of  the  road, 
there  being  a  perpendicular  bank  to  the  right,  on  the  margin  of  which  the  road  passed.  I 
perceived  that  the  prisoners  were  running  the  gauntlet,  and  that  the  Indians  were  whipping, 
shooting  and  tomahawking  the  men  as  they  ran  by  their  line.  When  I  reached  the  start 
ing  place,  I  dashed  off  as  fast  as  I  was  able,  and  ran  near  the  muzzles  of  their  guns,  know 
ing  that  they  would  have  to  shoot  me  while  I  was  immediately  in  front,  or  let  me  pass,  for 
to  have  turned  their  guns  up  or  down  their  lines  to  shoot  me,  would  have  endangered  them 
selves,  as  there  was  a  curve  in  their  line.  In  this  way  I  passed  without  injury,  except  some 
strokes  over  the  shoulders  with  their  gun-sticks.  As  I  entered  the  ditch  around  the  garri 
son,  the  man  before  me  was  shot  and  fell,  and  I  fell  over  him.  The  passage  for  a  while 
was  stopped  by  those  who  fell  over  the  dead  man  and  myself.  How  many  lives  were  lost 
at  this  place  I  can  not  tell — probably  between  20  and  40.  The  brave  Captain  Lewis  was 
among  the  number.  When  we  got  within  the  walls,  we  were  ordered  to  sit  down.  I  lay 
in  the  lap  of  Mr.  Gilpin,  a  soldier  of  Captain  Henry's  company,  from  Woodford.  A  new 
scene  commenced.  An  Indian,  painted  black,  mounted  the  dilapidated  wall,  and  shot  one 
of  the  prisoners  next  to  him.  He  reloaded  and  shot  a  second,  the  ball  passing  through  him 
into  the  hip  of  another,  who  afterward  died,  I  was  informed,  at  Cleveland,  of  the  wound. 
The  savage  then  laid  down  his  gun  and  drew  his  tomahawk,  with  which  he  killed  two 
others.  When  he  drew  his  tomahawk  and  jumped  down  among  the  men,  they  endeavored 
to  escape  from  him  by  leaping  over  the  heads  of  each  other,  and  thereby  to  place  others 
between  themselves  and  danger.  Thus  they  were  heaped  upon  one  another,  and  as  I  did 
not  rise,  they  trampled  upon  me  so  that  I  could  see  nothing  that  was  going  on.  The  con 
fusion  and  uproar  of  this  moment  can  not  be  adequately  described.  There  was  an  excite- 


OHIO.  185 

Proctor  seeing  no  prospect  of  taking  the  fort,  and  finding  his  Indians  fast  leav 
ing  him,  raised  the  siege  on  the  9th  of  May,  and  returned  with  precipitation  to 
Maiden.  Tecumseh  and  a  considerable  portion  of  the  Indians  remained  in  ser 
vice  ;  but  large  numbers  left  in  disgust,  and  were  ready  to  join  the  Americans. 
On  the  left  bank,  in  the  several  sorties  of  the  5th  of  May,  and  during  the  siege, 
the  American  loss  was  eighty-one  killed  and  one  hundred  and  eighty-nine  wounded. 

The  British  force  under  Proctor,  during  the  siege,  amounted,  as  nearly  as  could 
be  ascertained,  to  3,200  men,  of  whom  600  were  British  regulars,  800  Canadian 
militia,  and  1,800  Indians.  Those  under  Harrison,  including  the  troops  who  arrived 
on  the  morning  of  the  5th,  under  Gen.  Clay,  were  about  1,200.  The  number  of 
his  men  fit  for  duty,  was,  perhaps,  less  than  1,100."* 

On  the  20th  of  July,  the  enemy,  to  the  number  of  5,000,  again  appeared 
before  Fort  Meigs,  and  commenced  a  second  siege.  The  garrison  was,  at 
the  time,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Green  Clay,  of  Kentucky.  Finding 
the  fort  too  strong,  they  remained  but  a  few  days. 


SANDUSKY  CITY,  port  of  entry,  and  capital  of  Erie  county,  is  situated  on 
the  southern  shore  of  Sandusky  Bay,  3  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  105  miles  N. 
from  Columbus,  47  E.  from  Toledo,  210  N.N.E.  from  Cincinnati,  and  60 
from  Cleveland  and  Detroit.  It  is  also  on  the  northern  division  of  the  Cleve 
land  and  Toledo  Railroad,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Sandusky,  Mansfield 
and  Newark,  and  Sandusky,  Dayton  and  Cincinnati  Railroads.  The  bay 
is  about  20  miles  long  and  5  or  6  wide,  forming  an  excellent  harbor,  into 
which  vessels  of  all  sizes  can  enter  with  safety  in  storms.  The  ground  on 
which  the  city  stands,  rises  gently  from  the  shore,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  bay  with  its  shipping.  The  town  is  based  upon  an  inexhaustible 
quarry  of  fine  limestone,  which  is  not  only  used  in  building  elegant  and  sub- 

ment  among  the  Indians,  and  a  fierceness  in  their  conversation,  which  betokened  on  the 
part  of  some  a  strong  disposition  to  massacre  the  whole  of  us.  The  British  officers  and 
soldiers  seemed  to  interpose  to  prevent  the  further  effusion  of  blood.  Their  expression  was 
"  Oh,  mchee,  ioahl"  meaning,  "  oh  !  brother,  quit !  "  After  the  Indian  who  had  occasioned 
this  horrible  scene,  had  scalped  and  stripped  his  victims,  he  left  us,  and  a  comparative  calm 
ensued.  The  prisoners  resumed  their  seats  on  the  ground.  While  thus  situated,  a  tall, 
stout  Indian  walked  into  the  midst  of  us,  drew  a  long  butcher  knife  from  his  belt  and  com 
menced  whetting  it.  As  he  did  so,  he  looked  around  among  the  prisoners,  apparently  se 
lecting  one  for  the  gratification  of  his  vengeance.  I  viewed  his  conduct,  and  thought  it 
probable  that  he  was  to  give  the  signal  for  a  general  massacre.  But  after  exciting  our  fears 
sufficiently  for  his  satisfaction,  he  gave  a  contemptuous  grunt  and  went  out  from  among  us. 

When  it  was  near  night,  we  were  taken  in  open  boats  about  nine  miles  down  the  river, 
to  the  British  shipping.  On  the  day  after,  we  were  visited  by  the  Indians,  in  their  bark 
canoes,  in  order  to  make  a  display  of  their  scalps.  These  they  strung  on  a  pole,  perhaps 
two  inches  in  diameter,  and  about  eight  feet  high.  The  pole  was  set  up  perpendicularly  in 
the  bow  of  their  canoes,  and  near  the  top  the  scalps  were  fastened.  On  some  poles  I  saw 
four  or  five.  Each  scalp  was  drawn  closely  over  a  hoop  about  four  inches  in  diameter ;  and 
the  flesh  sides,  I  thought,  were  painted  red.  Thus  their  canoes  were  decorated  with  a  flag 
staff  of  a  most  appropriate  character,  bearing  human  scalps,  the  horrid  ensigns  of  savage 
warfare." 

*"  During  the  siege,"  says  an  eye  witness,  "one  of  our  militia  men  took  his  station  on 
the  embankment,  and  gratuitously  forewarned  us  of  every  shot.  In  this  he  became  so 
skillful  that  he  could,  in  almost  every  case,  predict  the  destination  of  the  ball.  As  soon  as 
the  smoke  issued  from  the  muzzle  of  the  gun,  he  would  cry  out,  "shot,"  or  "  bomb,"  as  the 
case  might  be.  Sometimes  he  would  exclaim,  "  block-house  No.  1,"  or  "  look-out  main  bat 
tery  ;  "  "noro  for  the  meat-house;  "  "  good-by,  if  you  will  pass."  In  spite  of  all  the  expostu 
lations  of  his  friends,  he  maintained  his  post.  One  day  there  came  a  shot  that  seemed  to 
defy  all  his  calculations.  He  stood  silent — motionless — perplexed.  In  the  same  instant  he 
wan  swept  into  eternity.  Poor  man  1  he  should  have  considered,  that  when  there  is  no  ob 
liquity  in  the  issue  of  the  smoke,  either  to  the  right  or  left,  above  or  below,  the  fatal  mes 
senger  would  travel  in  the  direct  line  of  his  vision.  He  reminded  me  of  the  peasant,^in 
the  siege  of  Jerusalem,  who  cried  out,  "  woe  to  the  city  I  woe  to  the  temple  I  woe  to  myself  I 


186 


OHIO. 


stantial  edifices  in  the  place,  but  is  an  extensive  article  of  export.  It  has  a 
large  trade,  and  its  manufactures,  chiefly  of  heavy  machinery,  are  important. 
Population,  about  12,000. 


North-eastern  mew  of  Public  Square,  SandusJcy. 

The  view  shows,  first,  beginning  at  the  left,  the  Episcopal  Church,  then  successively  the  Dutch  Reformed 
Church,  the  Court  House,  Catholic  Church,  the  High  School,  Congregational  Church,  Methodist,  Baptist, 
and  the  Presbyterian  Churches. 

The  French  established  a  small  trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  Huron  River,  and 
another  on  the  shore  of  the  bay  on  or  near  the  site  of  Sandusky  City,  which  were 
abandoned  before  the  war  of  the  revolution.  The  small  map  annexed  is  copied 
from  part  of  Evans'  map  of  the  Middle  British  Colonies,  published  in  1755.  The 

reader  will  perceive  upon  the  east  bank 
of  ^andusky  River,  near  the  bay,  a  French 
fort  there  described  as  "  Fort  Junandat, 
built  in  1754."  The  words  Wandots  are, 
doubtless,  meant  for  Wyandot  towns. 

Erie,  Huron,  and  a  small  part  of  Otta 
wa  counties  comprise  that  portion  of  the 
Western  Reserve*  known  as  "  the  fire 
lands"  being  a  tract  of  about  500,000 
acres,  granted  by  the  state  of  Connecticut 
to  the  sufferers  by  fire  from  the  British  in 
their  incursions  into  that  state. 

It  is  quite  difficult  to  ascertain  who  the  first 
settlers  were  upon  the  fire  lands.  As  early, 
if  not  prior  to  the  organization  of  the  state, 
several  persons  had  squatted  upon  the  lands, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  streams  and  near  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  led  a  hunter's  life  and 
trafficked  with  the  Indians.  But  they  were  a 
race  of  wanderers  and  gradually  disappeared 
before  the  regular  progress  of  the  settlements. 
Those  devoted  missionaries,  the  Moravians,  made  a  settlement,  which  they  called  New 

*  The  Western,  or  Connecticut  Reserve,  comprises  the  following  counties  in  northern  Ohio, 
viz :  Ashtabula,  Lake,  Cuyahoga,  Lorain,  Erie,  Huron,  Medina,  Summit,  Portage,  Truin- 
buli,  and  the  northern  part  of  Mahoning. 


OHIO. 


187 


Salem,  as  early  as  1790,  on  Huron  River,  about  two  miles  below  Milan,  on  the  Hathaway 
farm.  They  afterward  settled  at  Milan. 

The  first  regular  settlers  upon  the  fire  lands  were  Col.  Jerard  Ward,  who  came  in  the 
spring  of  1808,  and  Almon  Ruggles  and  Jabez  Wright,  in  the  autumn  succeeding.  Ere  the 
close  of  the  next  year,  quite  a  number  of  families  had  settled  in  the  townships  of  Huron, 
Florence,  Berlin,  Oxford,  Margaretta,  Portland  and  Vermillion.  These  early  settlers  gen 
erally  erected  the  ordinary  log  cabin,  but  others  of  a  wandering  character  built  bark  huts, 
which  were  made  by  driving  a  post  at  each  of  the  four  corners,  and  one  higher  between 
each  of  the  two  end  corners,  in  the  middle  to  support  the  roof,  which  were  connected  to 
gether  by  a  ridge  pole.  Layers  of  bark  were  wound  around  the  side  of  the  posts,  each  up 
per  layer  lapping  the  one  beneath  to  shed  rain.  The  roof  was  barked  over,  strips  being 
bent  across  from  one  eave  over  the  ridge  pole  to  the  other,  and  secured  by  poles  on  them. 
The  occupants  of  these  bark  huts  were  squatters,  and  lived  principally  by  hunting.  They 
were  the  semi-oivilized  race  that  usually  precedes  the  more  substantial  pioneer  in  the  west 
ern  wilderness. 

Fremont,  formerly  Lower  Sandusky,  on  the  west  bank  of  Sandusky  River, 
is  the  county  seat  of  Sandusky  county,  30  miles  easterly  from  Toledo,  by  the 
Cleveland  and  Toledo  Railroad.  Population  about  4,000. 

The  defense  of  Fort  Stephenson,  at  this  point,  Aug.  2,  1813,  just  after 
the  siege  of  Fort  Meigs,  was  a  memorable  event  in  the  war  of  1812. 

This  post  had  been  established  by  Gen.  Harrison,  on  Sandusky  River,  eighteen 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  forty  east  of  Fort  Meigs.  It  was  garrisoned  by  one 

hundred  and  fifty  men,  under  Major 
George  Croghan,  a  young  Kentuckian, 
just  past  twenty-one  years  of  age.  This 
fort  being  indefensible  against  heavy 
cannon,  which  it  was  supposed  would 
be  brought  against  it  by  Proctor,  it  was 
judged  best  by  Harrison  and  his  officers 
in  council,  that  it  should  be  abandoned. 
But  the  enemy  appeared  before  the  gar 
rison  on  the  31st  of  July,  before  the  or 
der  could  be  executed ;  they  numbered 
thirty-three  hundred  strong,  including 
the  Indians,  and  brought  with  them  sis 
pieces  of  artillery,  which,  luckily,  wrere 

^: of  light  caliber.     To  Proctor's  summary 

demand  for  its  surrender,  he  was  informed  that  he  could  only  gain  access  over  the 
corpses  of  its  defenders.  The  enemy  soon  opening  their  fire  upon  them,  gave 
Croghan  reason  to  judge  that  they  intended  to  storm  the  north-west  angle  of  the 
fort.  In  the  darkness  of  night,  he  placed  his  only  piece  of  artillery,  a  six  pounder, 
at  that  point,  and  loaded  it  to  the  muzzle  with  slugs.  On  the  evening  of  the  2d, 
three  hundred  British  veterans  marched  up  to  carry  the  works  by  storm,  and 
when  within  thirty  feet  of  the  masked  battery  it  opened  upon  them.f  The  effect 
was  decisive,  twenty-seven  of  their  number  was  slain,  the  assailants  recoiled,  and 
having  the  fear  of  Harrison  before  them,  who  was  at  Fort  Seneca,  some  ten  miles 
south,  with  a  considerable  force,  they  hastily  retreated  the  same  night,  leaving  be 
hind  them  their  artillery  and  stores. 

Upper  Sandusky,  the  county  seat  of  Wyandot  county,  is  a  village  of  about 

*  References  to  the  Fort.— Line  1— Pickets.  Line  2— Embankment  from  the  ditch  to  and 
against  the  picket.  Line  3 — Dry  ditch,  nine  feet  wide  by  six  deep.  Line  4 — Outward  em 
bankment  or  glacis.  A — Block-house  first  attacked  by  cannon,  b.  B — Bastion  from  which 
the  ditch  was  raked  by  Croghan's  artillery.  C — Guard  block-house,  in  the  lower  left  cor 
ner.  D— Hospital  during  the  attack.  E  E  E— Military  store-houses.  F— -Commissary's 
store-house.  G— -Magazine.  H— Fort  gate.  K  K  K— Wicker  gates.  L— Partition  gate. 

fCol.  Short,  who  commanded  this  party,  was  ordering  his  men  to  leap  the  ditch,  cut  down 
the  pickets,  and  give  the  Americans  no  quarters,  when  he  fell  mortally  wounded  into  the 
ditch,  hoisted  his  white  handkerchief  on  the  end  of  his  sword,  and  begged  for  that  mercy 
which  he  had  a  moment  before  ordered  to  be  denied  to  his  enemy. 


FOBT    SANDUSKY.* 


188 

1,500  inhabitants,  63  miles  N.  of  Columbus,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Sandus- 
ky,  and  on  the  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  and  Chicago  Railroad.  It  was  for 
merly  the  chief  town  of  the  Wyandot  Indians,  who  ceded  their  land  to  the 
United  States  in  1843. 

About  three  miles  north  of  the  town  is  the  battle  ground,  where  Col.  Crawford 
was  defeated  by  the  Indians,  in  1782.  After  the  massacre  of  the  Moravian  Indi 
ans  on  the  Tuscarawas,  the  remainder  settled  in  this  vicinity  among  the  hostile  In 
dians.  A  second  expedition  was  projected  on  the  upper  Ohio,  to  invade  the  Wy 
andot  country,  finish  the  destruction  of  the  Christian  Indians,  and  then  destroy 
the  Wyandot  towns  in  the  vicinity.  Four  hundred  and  eighty  men  assembled  at 
the  old  Mingo  towns,  near  the  site  of  Steubenville,  and  elected  Col.  Wm.  Craw 
ford,  a  resident  of  Brownsville,  as  their  commander.  This  officer  was  a  native  of 
Virginia,  and  an  intimate  friend  of  Washington.  At  this  time  he  was  about  50 
years  of  age. 

It  was  determined  to  carry  on  a  war  of  extermination — "no  quarter  was  to 
be  given  to  any  man,  woman  or  child"  On  the  7th  of  June,  while  marching 
through  the  Sandusky  plains,  they  were  attacked  by  the  Indians,  concealed  in  the 
high  grass.  The  action  continued  until  night  closed  in  upon  them.  It  was  tlren 
determined  to  retreat.  Unfortunately,  instead  of  doing  so  all  in  a  body,  one  part 
broke  up  into  small  parties,  and  these  being  pursued  by  detachments  of  Indians, 
mostly  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  Some  were  killed  and  scalped  at  the 
time,  while  others  were  reserved  for  torture.  Among  the  latter  was  Col.  Crawford, 
who  perished  at  the  stake.* 

*  The  account  of  the  burning  of  Crawford  is  thus  given  by  Dr.  Knight,  his  companion, 
who  subsequently  escaped.  When  we  went  to  the  fire,  the  colonel  was  stripped  naked,  or 
dered  to  sit  down  by  the  fire,  and  then  they  beat  him  with  sticks  and  their  fists.  Presently 
after,  I  was  treated  in  the  same  manner.  They  then  tied  a  rope  to  the  foot  of  a  post  about 
fifteen  feet  high,  bound  the  colonel's  hands  behind  his  back  and  fastened  the  rope  to  the 
ligature  between  his  wrists.  The  rope  was  long  enough  for  him  to  sit  down  or  walk  round 
the  post  once  or  twice,  and  return  the  same  way.  The  colonel  then  called  to  Girty,  and 
asked  him  if  they  intended  to  burn  him  ?  Girty  answered,  yes.  The  colonel  said  he  would 
take  it  all  patiently.  Upon  this,  Captain  Pipe,  a  Delaware  chief,  made  a  speech  to  the  In 
dians,  viz :  about  thirty  or  forty  men,  and  sixty  or  seventy  squaws  and  boys.  When  the 
speech  was  finished,  they  all  yelled  a  hideous  and  hearty  assent  to  what  had  been  said.  The 
Indian  men  took  up  their  guns  and  shot  powder  into  the  colonel's  body,  from  his  feet  as  far 
up  as  his  neck.  I  think  that  not  less  than  seventy  loads  were  discharged  upon  his  naked 
body.  They  then  crowded  about  him,  and  to  the  best  of  my  observation,  cut  off  his  ears  ; 
when  the  throng  had  dispersed  a  little,  I  saw  the  blood  running  from  both  sides  of  his  head 
in  consequence  thereof. 

The  fire  was  about  six  or  seven  yards  from  the  post  to  which  the  colonel  was  tied ;  it  was 
made  of  small  hickory  poles,  burnt  quite  through  in  the  middle,  each  end  of  the  poles  re 
maining  about  six  feet  in  length.  Three  or  four  Indians,  by  turns,  would  take  up,  indi 
vidually,  one  of  these  burning  pieces  of  wood,  and  apply  it  to  his  naked  body,  already 
burnt  black  with  powder.  These  tormentors  presented  themselves  on  every  side  of  him 
with  the  burning  fagots  and  poles.  Some  of  the  squaws  took  broad  boards,  upon  which 
they  would  carry  a  quantity  of  burning  coals  and  hot  embers,  and  throw  on  him,  so  that  in 
a  short  time,  he  had  nothing  but  coals  of  fire  and  hot  ashes  to  walk  upon.  In  the  midst  of 
these  extreme  tortures,  he  called  to  Simon  Girty,  and  begged  of  him  to  shoot  him ;  but 
Girty  making  no  answer,  he  called  to  him  again.  Girty  then,  by  way  of  derision,  told  the 
colonel  that  he  had  no  gun,  at  the  same  time  turning  about  to  an  Indian  who  was  behind 
him,  laughed  heartily,  and  by  all  his  gestures,  seemed  delighted  with  the  horrid  scene. 
Girty  then  came  up  to  me  and  bade  me  prepare  for  death.  He  said,  however,  I  was  not  to 
die  at.  that  place,  but  to  be  burnt  at  the  Shawnese  towns.  He  swore  by  G — d  I  need  not 
expect  to  escape  death,  but  should  suffer  it  in  all  its  extremities. 

Col.  Crawford,  at  this  period  of  his  sufferings,  besought  the  Almighty  to  have  mercy  on 
his  soul,  spoke  very  low,  and  bore  his  torments  with  the  most  manly  fortitude.  He  con 
tinued  in  all  the  extremities  of  pain  for  an  hour  and  three  quarters  or  two  hours  longer,  as 
near  as  I  can  judge,  when  at  last,  being  almost  exhausted,  he  lay  down  on  his  belly  ;  they 
then  scalped  him,  and  repeatedly  threw  the  scalp  in  my  face,  telling  me,  "  that  was  my  great 
captain."  An  old  squaw  (whose  appearance  every  way  answered  the  ideas  people  entertain 
of  the  devil)  got  a  board,  took  a  parcel  of  coals  and  ashes  and  laid  them  on  his  back  and 
head,  after  he  had  been  scalped ;  he  then  raised  himself  upon  his  feet  and  began  to  walk 


OHIO. 


189 


Near  the  town  of  Upper  Sandusky  stands  the  old  Wyandot  Mission  Church, 
built  about  the  year  1824,  from  government  funds,  by  Rev.  James  B.  Fin- 
ley.  The  Methodists  here  sustained  the  mission  among  the  Indians  for  many 
years.  In  1816,  John  Stewart,  a  mulatto,  a  Methodist,  came  here,  and  gain 
ing  much  influence  over  the  na 
tives,  paved  the  way  for  a  regular 
mission,  which  was  soon  after 
formed  by  Mr.  Finley,  who  es 
tablished  both  a  church  and  a 
school.  This  was  the  first  Indian 
mission  formed  by  the  Methodists 
in  the  Mississippi  Valley.  Mr. 
Finley  was  very  happy  in  his 
efforts,  and  in  his  interesting  his 
tory  of  the  mission,  gives  the  fol 
lowing  touching  anecdote  of  the 
chief  Summundewat,  one  of  his 
converts,  who  was  subsequently 
murdered  by  some  vagabond 
whites  in  Hancock  county,  while 
extending  to  them  hospitalities  : 
"  Sum-mun-de-wat  amused  me  after 
he  came  home  by  relating  a  circumstance  that  transpired  one  cold  evening,  just  before 
sun-down.  '  I  met,'  said  he,  '  on  a  small  path,  not  far  from  my  camp,  a  man  who  ask  me 
if  I  could  talk  English.'  I  said,  '  Little.'  He  ask  me,  '  How  far  is  it  to  a  house?  '  I  an 
swer,  '  I  don't  know — may  be  10  miles — may  be  8  miles.'  '  Is  there  a  path  leading  to  it?' 
'  No — by  and  by  dis  go  out  (pointing  to  the  path  they  were  on),  den  all  woods.  You  go 
home  me — sleep — me  go  show  you  to-morrow.'  Then  he  come  my  camp — so  take  horse 
— tie — give  him  some  corn  and  brush — then  my  wife  give  him  supper.  He  ask  where  I 
come.  I  say,  '  Sandusky.'  He  say, '  You  know  Finley  ?  '  '  Yes,'  I  say, '  he  is  my  brother 
— my  father.'  Then  he  say, '  He  is  my  brother.'  Then  I  feel  something  in  my  heart  burn. 
I  say, '  You  preacher?  '  He  say, '  Yes; '  and  I  shook  hands  and  say, '  My  brother! '  Then 
we  try  talk.  Then  I  say,  '  You  sing  and  pray.'  So  he  did.  Then  he  say  to  me,  '  Sing 
and  pray.'  So  I  did;  and  I  so  much  cry  I  can't  pray.  No  go  to  sleep — I  can't — I  wake — 
my  heart  full.  All  night  I  pray  and  praise  God,  for  his  send  me  preacher  to  sleep  my 
camp.  Next  morning  soon  come,  and  he  want  to  go.  Then  I  go  show  him  through  the 
woods,  until  come  to  big  road.  Then  he  took  my  hand  and  say,  '  Farewell,  brother;  by 
and  by  we  meet  up  in  heaven.'  Then  me  cry,  and  my  brother  cry.  We  part — I  go  hunt. 
All  day  I  cry,  and  no  see  deer  jump  up  and  run  away.  Then  I  go  and  pray  by  some  log. 
My  heart  so  full  of  joy,  that  I  can  not  walk  much.  I  say,  '  I  can  not  hunt.'  Sometimes 
I  sing — then  I  stop  and  clap  my  hands,  and  look  up  to  God,  my  heavenly  Father.  Then 
the  love  come  so  fast  in  my  heart,  I  can  hardly  stand.  So  I  went  home,  and  said,  '  Thia 
is  my  happiest  day.'  " 


WYANDOT  MISSION  CHUBCH. 


DAYTON,  a  city,  and  capital  of  Montgomery  county,  is  situated  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Great  Miami,  at  the  mouth  of  Mad  River,  60  miles  from 
Cincinnati,  67  from  Columbus,  and  110  from  Indianapolis.  This  is  the 

round  the  post ;  they  next  put  a  burning  stick  to  him,  as  usual,  but  he  seemed  more  insen 
sible  of  pain  than  before. 

The  Indian  fellow  who  had  me  in  charge,  now  took  me  away  to  Captain  Pipe's  house, 
about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  place  of  the  colonel's  execution.  I  was  bound  all 
tight,  and  thus  prevented  from  seeing  the  last  of  the  horrid  spectacle.  Next  morning, 
being  June  12th,  the  Indian  untied  me ;  painted  me  black,  and  we  set  off  for  the  Shawnee 
town,  which  he  told  me  was  somewhat  less  than  forty  miles  distant  from  that  place.  Wo 
soon  came  to  the  spot  where  the  colonel  had  been  burnt,  as  it  was  partly  in  our  way  ;  I  saw 
his  bones  lying  among  the  remains  of  the  fire,  almost  burnt  to  ashes ;  I  suppose,  after  he 
was  dead,  they  laid  his  body  on  the  fire.  The  Indian  told  me  that  was  my  big  captain,  and 
gave  the  scalp  halloo. 


190 


OHIO. 


third  city  in  Ohio,  in  population  and  wealth,  and  has  extensive  manufac 
tures  and  respectable  commerce.  Its  manufactures  consist  principally  of 
railroad  equipments,  iron  ware,  paper,  cotton,  and  woolen  fabrics,  etc. 
The  city  is  laid  out  with  streets  100  feet  wide,  crossing  each  other  at  right 


North-eastern  view  of  the  Court  House,  Dayton. 

Erected  at  an  expense  of  about  $100,000,  and  127  feet  in  length  by  62  in  breadth.    The  style  of  architec 
ture  is  that  of  the  Parthenon,  with  some  slight  variations. 

angles.  The  public  buildings  are  excellent,  and  much  taste  is  displayed  in 
the  construction  of  private  residences,  many  of  which  are  ornamented  by 
fine  gardens  and  shrubbery.  The  abundant  water  power  which  Dayton  pos 
sesses  is  one  of  the  elements  of  its  prosperity.  In  1845,  a  hydraulic  canal 
was' made,  by  which  the  water  of  Mad  River  is  brought  through  the  city. 
Numerous  macadamized  roads  diverge  from  the  town,  and  radiate  in  all  di 
rections  ;  several  railroads  terminate  at  Dayton,  and  by  this  means  communi 
cation  is  had  with  every  point  in  the  Union.  The  Southern  Ohio  Lunatic 
Asylum  is  established  here.  There  are  27  churches,  in  7  of  which  the  Ger 
man  language  is  used.  Population  in  I860,  2»IJM2. 

The  first  families  who  made  a  permanent  residence  in  the  place,  arrived  on 
the  1st  day  of  April,  1796.  The  first  19  settlers  of  Dayton,  were  Wm.  Ga- 
hagan,  Samuel  Thompson,  Benj.  Van  Cleve,  Wm.  Van  Cleve,  Solomon  Goss, 
Thomas  Davis,  John  Davis,  James  M'Clure,  John  M'Clure,  Daniel  Ferrell, 
William  Ilamer,  Solomon  Hamer,  Thomas  Hamer,  Abraham  Glassmire,  John 
Dorough,  Wm.  Chenoweth,  Jas.  Morris,  Wm.  Newcom  and  George  Newcom. 

In  1803,  on  the  organization  of  the  state  government,  Montgomery  county 
was  established.  Dayton  was  made  the  seat  of  justice,  at  which  time  only 
five  families  resided  in  the  town,  the  other  settlers  having  gone  on  to  farms 
in  the  vicinity,  or  removed  to  other  parts  of  the  country.  The  increase  of 
the  town  was  gradual,  until  the  war  of  1812,  which  made  a  thoroughfare  for 
the  troops  and  stores  on  their  way  to  the  frontier. 

Springfield,  a  beautiful  city  and  capital  of  Clarke  county,  is  situated  on 
the  National  Road,  on  Mad  River,  43  miles  W.  from  Columbus,  and  84  N. 
from  Cincinnati.  It  has  great  water  power,  well  improved  by  a  variety  of 
mills  and  manufacturing  establishments.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  and 
populous  country.  Several  macadamized  roads  terminate  here,  and  railroads 


OHIO.  191 

connect  it  with  the  principal  towns  in  the  state.  Wittemberg  College,  un 
der  the  patronage  of  the  Lutheran  Church,  chartered  in  1845,  is  a  short  dis 
tance  without  the  town,  and  is  surrounded  with  spacious  grounds.  Popula 
tion,  8,000. 

Springfield  was  laid  out  in  1803,  by  James  Demint.  The  old  Indian  town, 
Piqua,  the  ancient  Piqua  of  the  Shawnees,  and  the  birth-place  of  TECUMSEH, 
the  celebrated  Indian  warrior,  was  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Mad  River, 
about  five  miles  W.  from  Springfield. 

Xenia,  the  county  seat  of  Green,  is  a  well  built  town  on  the  Little  Miami 
Railroad,  64  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  in  a  rich  country.  The  town  was 
laid  off  in  1803,  by  Joseph  C.  Vance.  The  name,  Xenia,  is  said  to  be  an 
old  French  word,  signifying  a  New  Year's  gift.  Wilberforce  University  is 
three  and  a  half  miles  north-east  of  Xenia,  an  institution  under  the  care  of 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  North,  for  the  special  purpose  of  educating 
colored  youth  of  both  sexes.  Population  about  5,000. 

About  three  miles  north,  on  the  Little  Miami,  is  the  site  of  the  Shawnee 
town,  Old  Chillicothe.  It  was  a  place  of  note  in  the  early  history  of  the 
country,  and  a  point  to  which  Daniel  Boone,  with  27  other  Kentuckians, 
were  brought  prisoners  in  1778. 

Antioch  College  is  at  Yellow  Springs,  9  miles  north  of  Xenia.  It  is  an 
institution  of  considerable  celebrity,  the  one  over  which  the  late  Horace 
Mann  presided,  with  so  much  reputation  to  himself  and  benefit  to  his  pupils. 


First  Court  House  in  Greene  county. 

The  engraving  is  a  correct  representation  of  the  first  court  house  in  Greene.  It 
was  erected  five  and  a  half  miles  north  of  the  site  of  Xenia,  near  the  Dayton  road. 
It  was  built  by  Gen.  Benj.  Whiteman,  as  a  residence  for  Peter  Borders. 

The  first  court  for  the  trial  of  causes  was  held  in  it,  in  August,  1803,  Francis 
Dunlavy,  presiding  judge.  A  grand  jury  of  inquest  were  sworn  "  for  the  body  of 
Greene  county."  After  receiving  the  charge,  "they  retired  out  of  court" — a  cir 
cumstance  not  to  be  wondered  at,  as  there  was  but  one  room  in  the  house.  Their 
place  of  retirement,  or  jury  room,  was  a  little  squat  shaped  pole  hut,  shown  on  the 
right  of  the  view.  But  it  appears  there  was  nothing  for  them  to  do. 

"But  they  were  not  permitted  to  remain  idle  long:  the  spectators  in  attendance 
promptly  took  the  matter  into  consideration.  They,  doubtless,  thought  it  a  great 


192 

pity  to  have  a  learned  court  and  nothing  for  it  to  do;  so  they  set  to  and  cut  ont 
employment  for  their  honors  by  engaging  in  divers  hard  fights  at  fisticuffs,  right 
on  the  ground.  So  it  seems  our  pioneers  fought  for  the  benefit  of  the  court.  At 
all  events,  while  their  honors  were  waiting  to  settle  differences  according  to  law, 
they  were  making  up  issues  and  settling  them  by  trial  "  by  combat" — a  process  by 
which  they  avoided  the  much  complained  of  "laws'  delay,"  and  incurred  no  other 
damages  than  black  eyes  and  bloody  noses,  which  were  regarded  as  mere  trifles, 
of  course.  Among  the  incidents  of  the  day,  characteristic  of  the  times,  was  this : 

A  Mr. ,  of  Warren  county,  was  in  attendance.     Owen  Davis,  the  owner  of  a 

mill  near  by,  and  a  brave  Indian  fighter,  as  well  as  a  kind-hearted,  obliging  man, 
charged  this  Warren  county  man  with  speculatiny  in  pork,  alias  stealing  his 
neighbor's  hogs.  The  insult  was  resented — a  combat  took  place  forthwith,  in  which 
Davis  proved  victorious.  He  then  went  into  court,  and  planting  himself  in  front 
of  the  judges,  he  observed,  addressing  himself  particularly  to  one  of  them,  '  Well, 

Ben,  I've  whipped  that hot/  thief— what' s  the  damage — what's  to  pay?  and, 

thereupon,  suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  he  drew  out  his  buckskin  purse,  contain 
ing  8  or  10  dollars,  and  slammed  it  down  on  the  table — then  shaking  his  fist  at  the 

judge  whom  he  addressed,  he  continued,  '  Yes,  Ben,  and  if  you'd  steal  a  hog, 

you,  I'd  whip  you  too.'  He  had,  doubtless,  come  to  the  conclusion,  that,  as  there 
was  a  court,  the  luxury  of  lighting  could  not  be  indulged  in  gratis,  and  he  was  for 
paying  up  as  he  Avent.  Seventeen  witnesses  were  sworn  and  sent  before  the  grand 
jury,  and  nine  bills  of  indictment  were  found  the  same  day — all  for  affrays  and 
assaults  and  batteries  committed  after  the  court  was  organized.  To  these  indict 
ments  the  parties  all  pleaded  guilty,  and  were  fined — Davis  among  the  rest,  who 
was  fined  eight  dollars  for  his  share  in  the  transactions  of  the  day." 

Greenville,  the  capital  of  Darke  county,  on  the  Greenville  and  Miami 
Railroad,  is  about  121  miles  W.  from  Columbus.  It  contains  sdme  1,500 
inhabitants.  In  1793,  Gen.  Wayne  built  Fort  Greenville  on  the  site  of  the 
present  town,  and  here  the  treaty  of  Greenville  was  concluded,  between  Gen. 
Wayne  and  the  Indians.  Gen.  St.  Clair,  at  the  head  of  1,400  men,  was  de 
feated  by  the  Indians  in  the  north-west  corner  of  Darke  county,  upward  of 
20  miles  from  Greenville,  Nov.  4,  1791.  The  great  object  of  St.  Glair's 
campaign  was  to  establish  a  line  of  military  posts  between  Fort  Washington 
(Cincinnati),  and  the  junction  of  St.  Mary  and  St.  Joseph  Rivers,  now  Fort 
Wayne.  The  description  of  the  battle  is  from  Monette's  history : 

On  the  3d  of  November,  the  army  encamped  in  a  wooded  plain,  among  the 
sources  of  a  Wabash  tributary,  upon  the  banks  of  several  small  creeks,  about  fifty 
miles  south  of  the  Miami  towns.  The  winter  had  already  commenced,  and  the 
ground  was  covered  with  snow  three  inches  deep. 

Next  morning,  Nov.  4th,  just  before  sunrise,  and  immediately  after  the  troops 
had  been  dismissed  from  parade,  the  Indians  made  a  furious  attack  upon  the  mili 
tia,  whose  camp  was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  main  camp  of 
the  regular  troops.  The  militia  immediately  gave  way,  and  fled  with  great  pre 
cipitation  and  disorder,  with  the  Indians  in  close  pursuit;  and,  rushing  through  the 
camp,  they  threw  the  battalions  of  Majors  Butler  and  Clark  into  confusion.  The 
utmost  exertions  of  those  officers  failed  to  restore  complete  order.  The  Indians, 
pressing  close  upon  the  militia,  immediately  engaged  Butler's  command  with  great 
intrepidity  and  fury.  The  attack  soon  became  general  both  in  the  front  and  second 
lines,  but  the  weight  of  the  enemy's  fire  was  directed  against  the  center  of  each 
line,  where  the  artillery  was  stationed.  Such  was  the  intensity  of  the  enemy's  fire, 
that  the  men  were  repeatedly  driven  from  their  guns  with  great  loss.  Confusion 
was  spreading  among  the  troops,  from  the  great  numbers  who  were  constantly  fall 
ing,  while  no'impression  was  made  by  their  fire  upon  the  enemy.  "  At  length  re 
sort  was  had  to  the  bayonet. — Col.  Darke  was  ordered  to  charge  with  part  of  the 
second  line,  and  endeavor  to  turn  the  left  flank  of  the  enemy.  This  order  was  ex 
ecuted  with  great  spirit.  The  Indians  instantly  gave  way,  and  were  driven  back 
three  or  four  hundred  yards;  but,  for  want  of  a  sufficient  number  of  riflemen  to 
pursue  this  advantage,  they  soon  rallied,  and  the  troops  were  obliged  in  turn  to 


OHIO. 


193 


fall  back.  At  this  moment,  the  Indians  had  entered  our  camp  by  the  left  flank, 
having  driven  back  the  troops  that  were  posted  there.  Another  charge  was  made 
here  by  the  second  regiment,  Butler's  and  Clark's  battalions,  with  equal  effect,  and 
it  was  repeated  several  times,  and  always  with  success ;  but  in  each  charge  several 
men  were  lost,  and  particularly  the  officers;  which,  with  raw  troops,  was  a  Joss 

altogether  irremedia 
ble.'  In  the  last  charge 
Major  Butler  was  dan 
gerously  wounded,  and 
every  officer  of  the 
second  regiment  fell 
except  three.  The  ar 
tillery  being  now  si 
lenced,  and  all  the  of 
ficers  killed  except 
Capt.  Ford,  who  was 
severely  wounded,  and 
more  than  half  the 
army  having  fallen,  it 
became  necessary  to 
make  a  retreat,  if  pos 
sible.  This  was  im 
mediately  done,  while 
Major  Clark  protected 
the  rear  with  his  bat 
talion.  The  retreat 
was  precipitous :  it  was 
a  perfect  flight.  The 
camp  and  artillery  was 
abandoned;  not  a  horse 
was  alive  to  draw  the 
cannon.  The  men,  in 
their  flight  and  conster 
nation,  threw  away  their  arms  and  accouterments  after  pursuit  had  ceased,  and 
the  road  was  strewed  with  them  for  more  than  four  miles.  The  rout  continued  to 
Fort  Jefferson,  twenty-nine  miles.  The  action  began  half  an  hour  before  sunrise, 
the  retreat  commenced  at  half  past  nine  o'clock,  and  the  remnant  of  the  army 
reached  Fort  Jefferson  just  after  sunset.  The  savages  continued  the  pursuit  for 
four  miles,  when,  fortunately,  they  returned  to  the  scene  of  action  for  scalps  and 
plunder. 

In  this  most  disastrous  battle,  thirty-eight  commissioned  officers  were  killed  on 
the  field.  Six  hundred  non-commissioned  officers  and  privates  were  either  killed 
or  missing.  Among  the  wounded  were  twenty-one  commissioned  officers,  and  two 
hundred  and  forty-two  non-commissioned  officers  and  privates.  Many  of  the 
wounded  died  subsequently  of  their  wounds.  The  Indian  loss  did  not  exceed  sixty 
warriors  killed. 

The  grand  error  in  this  campaign  was  the  impolicy  of  urging  forward  on  a  dan 
gerous  service,  far  into  the  Indian  country,  an  army  of  raw  troops,  who  were  un 
willing  to  enter  upon  the  campaign,  as  was  fully  evinced  by  frequent  desertions  as 
they  approached  the  hostile  towns.  The  army  was  fatally  reduced  by  the  detach 
ment  sent  to  overtake  the  deserters  from  the  Kentucky  militia;  and  Gen.  St.  Glair 


PLAN  OF  ST.  CLAIK'S   BATTLE  FIELD.* 


*  References, — A — High  ground,  on  which  the  militia  were  encamped  at  the  commence 
ment  of  the  action.  B  C — Encampment  of  the  main  army.  D — Retreat  of  ^he  militia  at 
the  beginning  of  the  battle.  E — St.  Glair's  trace,  on  which  the  defeated  army  retreated. 
F— Place  where  Gen.  Butler  and  other  officers  were  buried.  G— Trail  to  Girty's  Town,  on 
the  River  St.  Marys,  at  what  is  now  the  village  of  St.  Marys.  H— Site  of  Fort  Recovery, 
built  by  Wayne ;  the  line  of  Darke  and  Mercer  runs  within  a  few  rods  of  the  site  of  the 
fort.  I — Place  where  a  brass  cannon  was  found  buried,  in  1830 ;  it  is  on  the  bottom  where 
the  Indians  were  three  times  driven  to  the  high  land  with  the  bayonet. 

13 


-194  OHIO. 

himself  was  quite  infirm,  and  often  unable  to  attend  to  his  duties  as  commander- 
in-chief.  On  the  fatal  day  of  his  defeat,  he  was  scarcely  able  to  be  mounted  upon 
his  horse,  either  from  physical  infirmity  or  culpable  intemperance.* 

The  Indians  engaged  in  this  terrible  battle  comprised  about  nine  hundred  war 
riors.  Among  them  were  about  four  hundred  Shawnese,  commanded  by  Blue 
Jacket,  and  chiefly  from  the  waters  of  the  Wabash.  The  remainder  were  com 
manded  by  Little  Turtle,  Buckongahelas,  consisting  of  Delawares,  Wyandots,  Pota- 
watamies,  and  Mingoes.  The  Delawares  alone  numbered  nearly  four  hundred  war 
riors,  who  fought  with  great  fury.  On  the  ground,  during  the  battle,  were  seen 
several  British  officers  in  full  uniform  from  Detroit,  who  had  come  to  witness  the 
strife  which  they  had  instigated.  Simon  Girty  commanded  a  party  of  Wyandots. 

Among  the  camp-followers  in  this  campaign  were  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty 
women,  of  whom  fifty-six  were  killed  during  the  carnage;  the  remainder  were 
chiefly  captured  the  Indians. 

Wayne's  troops  subsequently  built  a  fort,  called  Fort  Recovery,  on  the  sito 
of  the  battle  ground.  In  the  summer  of  1794,  a  second  battle  was  fought 
under  the  walls  of  the  fort,  between  140  Americans,  under  Major  McMahon, 
and  a  party  of  Indians,  led  on  by  British  officers.  McMahon  and  22  others 
were  killed,  but  the  survivors  gained  the  fort,  which  the  enemy  also  attacked 
but  were  driven  off  wfth  severe  loss. 

Within  Ohio,  beside  those  already  noticed  are  a  large  number  of  city- 
like  towns,  most  of  which  are  on  the  lines  of  railroads,  are  capitals  of  their 
respective  counties,  have  numerous  churches,  literary  institutions,  manufac 
tories,  and  varied  branches  of  industry — some  are  lighted  with  gas,  have 

*  St.  Clair  was  an  unfortunate  officer  in  the  Revolution,  but  still  retained  the  confidence 
and  friendship  of  Washington.  In  Rush's  "  Washington  in  Domestic  Life,"  is  an  account 
of  the  interview  between  Mr.  Tobias  Lear,  his  private  secretary,  and  Washington,  imme 
diately  after  the  reception  by  the  latter  of  the  news  of  St.  Glair's  defeat: 

"  The  general  now  walked  backward  and  forward  slowly  for  some  minutes  without  speak 
ing.  Then  he  sat  down  on  a  sofa  by  the  fire,  telling  Mr.  Lear  to  sit  down.  To  this  moment 
there  had  been  no  change  in  his  manner  since  his  interruption  at  table.  Mr.  Lear  now  per 
ceived  emotion.  This  rising  in  him,  he  broke  out  suddenly,  '  It's  all  over — St.  Glair's  de 
feated — routed ;  the  officers  nearly  all  killed,  the  men  by  wholesale ;  the  rout  complete — 
too  shocking  to  think  of — and  a  surprise  in  the  bargain  ! ' 

He  uttered  all  this  with  great  vehemence.  Then  he  paused,  got  up  from  the  sofa  and 
walked  about  the  room  several  times,  agitated  but  saying  nothing.  Near  the  door  he  stopped 
short,  and  stood  still  a  few  seconds,  when  his  wrath  became  terrible. 

'  Yes,'  he  burst  forth,  'here  on  this  very  spot,  I  took  leave  of  him;  I  wished  him  success 
and  honor;  you  have  your  instructions,  I  said,  from  the  secretary  of  war,  I  had  a  strict  eye 
to  them,  and  will  add  but  one  word — beware  of  a  surprize.  I  repeat  it,  BEWARE  OF  A  SUR 
PRISE — you  know  how  the  Indians  fight  us.  He  went  off  with  that  as  my  last  solemn  warn 
ing  thrown  into  his  ears.  And  yet!  to  suffer  that  army  to  be  cut  to  pieces,  hack'd,  butch 
ered,  tomahaw'd  by  a  surprise — the  very  thing  I  guarded  him  against  I  !  Oh,  God,  oh,  God, 
he's  worse  than  a  murderer!  how  can  he  answer  it  to  his  country: — the  blood  of  the  slain  ia 
upon  him — the  curse  of  widows  and  orphans — the  curse  of  Heaven?' 

This  torrent  came  out  in  tones  appalling.  His  very  frame  shook.  It  was  awful,  said 
Mr.  Lear.  More  than  once  he  threw  his  hands  up  as  he  hurled  imprecations  upon  St.  Glair. 
Mr.  Lear  remained  speechless,  awed  into  breathless  silence. 

Washington  sat  down  on  the  sofa  once  more.  He  seemed  conscious  of  his  passion,  and 
uncomfortable.  He  was  silent.  His  warmth  beginning  to  subside,  he  at  length  said  in  an 
altered  voice :  '  This  must  not  go  beyond  this  room.'  Another  pause  followed — a  longer 
one — when  he  said,  in  a  tone  quite  low,  '  General  St.  Clair  shall  have  justice ;  I  looked 
hastily  through  the  dispatches,  saw  the  whole  disaster,  but  not  all  the  particulars  ;  I  will 
receive  him  without  displeasure;  I  will  hear  him  without  prejudice;  he  shall  have  full  jus 
tice.' 

He  was  now,  said  Mr.  Lear,  perfectly  calm.  Half  an  hour  had  gone  by.  The  storm  was 
over;  and  no  sign  of  it  was  afterward  seen  in  his  conduct,  or  heard  in  his  conversation. 
The  result  is  known.  The  whole  case  was  investigated  by  congress.  St.  Clair  was  excul 
pated  and  regained  the  confidence  Washington  had  in  him  when  appointing  him  to  that 
command.  He  had  put  himself  into  the  thickest  of  the  fight  and  escaped  unhurt,  though 
BO  ill  as  to  be  carried  on  a  litter,  and  unable  to  mount  his  horse  without  help." 


195 

fire  companies,  and  are,  indeed,  small  cities.  We  mention  the  more  promi 
nent,  giving  their  populations,  according  to  the  census  of  1860. 

Mount  Vernoti  City,  Knox  county.  Population  4,147.  Five  miles  east  of 
it,  is  Grrambier,  the  seat  of  Kenyon  College,  founded  in  1827,  and  named 
after  Lord  Kenyon,  one  of  its  principal  benefactors. 

Mansfield  City,  Kichland  county,  a  manufacturing  town,  a  great  railroad 
center,  with  11  churches,  70  stores,  six  manufactories,  and  a  population  of 
4,540.  Wooster,  Wayne  county,  has  60  stores,  10  churches,  and  in  1858, 
4,837  inhabitants.  Canton,  Stark  county,  has  4,042  people.  Massillon,  in 
the  same  county,  has  a  population  of  3,680.  Youngstown,  in  Mahoning 
county  has  2,758  inhabitants.  All  of  the  above  are  in  the  northern  section 
of  the  state,  in  the  richest  WHEAT  counties  of  Ohio. 

Akron,  Summit  county,  has  50  stores  of  various  kinds,  and  3,520  inhab 
itants.  It  is  on  the  summit  level  of  the  Ohio  canal,  and  has  abundance  of 
water  power  from  the  canal  and  Cuyahoga  River,  which  is  employed  in  a 
variety  of  manufactures.  The  manufacturing  village  of  Cuyahoga  Falls,  is 
six  miles  north-east  of  Akron  :  the  river  falls  there,  in  the  space  of  two  and 
a  half  miles,  more  than  200  feet.  Western  Reserve  College  is  at  Hudson, 
eight  and  a  half  miles  northerly  from  the  last.  NorwaUc,  Huron  county, 
has  2,867  inhabitants.  Elyria, Lorain  county,  has  1,615 inhabitants,  Oberlin 
in  the  same  county,  2,012  inhabitants:  the  collegiate  institute  at  Oberlin  is 
a  nourishing  institution,  numbering  several  hundred  pupils  of  both  sexes.* 
Warren,  Trumbull  county,  has  2,402  inhabitants.  Ravenna,  Portage  county, 
has  36  stores,  and  a  population  of  1,797.  PainescUle,  Lake  county,  has 
2,615  inhabitants.  As/Uabula,  in  Ashtabula  county,  1,427  inhabitants.  The 
above  are  on  the  WESTERN  RESERVE. 

Tiffin,  Seneca  county,  is  the  seat  of  Heidelberg  College,  and  a  theological 
seminary  of  the  German  Reformed  Church.  It  has  12  churches  and  4,010 
inhabitants.  Bucyrus,  Crawford  county,  has  40  stores  and  2,210  inhabitants. 
Delaware,  Delaware  county,  has  14  churches  and  3,895  inhabitants.  It  is 
the  seat  of  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University  and  two  female  colleges.  Belle- 
fontaine,  Logan  county,  has  2,600  inhabitants.  Sidney,  Shelby  county,  has 
2,055  inhabitants.  Urbana,  Champaign  county,  the  seat  ofvUrbana  Univer 
sity  and  a  female  seminary,  has  a  population  of  3,429.  Piqua,  Miami 
county,  has  40  stores,  numerous  manufactories,  mechanic  shops,  and  4,620 
inhabitants.  Troy,  in  the  same  county,  has  2,640  inhabitants.  Lima,  in  Allen 

*  Many  of  the  pupils  at  Oberlin,  male  and  female,  are  of  African  origin,  and  mingle  oil 
terms  of  social  equality  with  the  others.  This  singularity  is  in  accordance  with  the  an 
nexed  published  synopsis  of  the  institution: 

1.  To  educate  youths  of  both  sexes,  so  as  to  secure  the  development  of  a  strong   mind  in 
a  sound  body,  connected  with  a  permanent,  vigorous,  progressive  piety — all  to  be  aided  by  a 
judicious  system  of  manual  labor. 

2.  To  beget  and  to  confirm  in  the  process  of  education  the  habit  of  self-denial,  patient 
endurance,  a  chastened  moral  courage,  and  a  devout  consecration  of  the  whole  being   to 
God,  in  seeking  the  best  good  of  man. 

3.  To  establish  universal  liberty  by  the  abolition  of  every  form  of  sin. 

4.  To  avoid  the  debasing  association  of  the  heathen  classics,  and  make  the  bible  a  text 
book  in  all  the  departments  of  education. 

5.  To  raise  up  a  church  and  ministers  who  shall  be  known  and  read  of  all  men  in   deep 
sympathy  with  Christ,  in  holy  living,  and  in  efficient  action  against  all  which  God  forbids. 

6.  To  furnish  a  seminary,  affording  thorough  instruction  in  all  the  branches  of  an  edu 
cation  for  both  sexes,  and  in  which  colored  persons,  of  both  sexes,  shall  be  freely  admitted, 
and  on  the  terms  of  equality  and  brotherhood. 


190  OHI°- 

county,  has  2079  inhabitants.     All  of  the  above  are  in  the  north-western 
quarter  of  the  state,  north  of  the  national  road  and  west  of  Columbus. 

Lebanon,  Warren  county,  has  2,498  inhabitants.  Eaton,  Preble  county, 
and  Gennatitown,  Montgomery  county,  have  each  about  1,500  inhabitants, 
as  also  have  Wilmington,  Hillsboro1  and  Greenfield.  Ripley,  on  the  Ohio 
River  in  Brown  county,  has  2,715  inhabitants.  The  above  are  all  in  the 
south-western  quarter  of  Ohio. 

Lancaster,  Fairfield  'county,  has  4,320  inhabitants.  Logan,  Hocking 
county,  M' ConnellsviUe,  in  Morgan,  Wellsv'dle,  in  Columbiana,  New  Lisbon, 
in  Columbiana,  and  Cambridge,  in  Guernsey  county,  have  each  about  1500 
inhabitants.  Pomeroy,  on  the  Ohio  River,  in  Meigs  county,  is  in  the  midst 
of  the  great  coal  producing  region  of  the  state,  to  which  it  owes  its  impor 
tance  ;  its  population  is  6,480.  Ironton,  on  the  Ohio  River,  in  Lawrence 
county  has  3,700  inhabitants.  This  town  was  laid  out  in  1849,  by  the  Ohio 
Iron  and  Coal  Company,  and  derives  its  importance  from  the  iron  business, 
the  principal  furnaces  of  the  Ohio  iron  district  being  in  its  vicinity.  All  of 
the  above,  excepting  Wellsville  and  New  Lisbon,  are  in  the  south-eastern 
quarter  of  Ohio. 

Beside  the  above,  Ohio  contains  many  villages  ranging  from  1,000  to 
2,000  inhabitants. 

BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCHES,  MISCELLANIES,  ETC. 

Tecwnseli,  the  renowned  warrior  and  chieftain  of  the  Shawnees,  was  born 
about  the  year  1768,  at  the  Indian  town  of  Piqua,  situated  on  the  north  side 

of  Mad  River,  some  five  miles 
west  of  the  site  of  Springfield, 
Clarke  county.  He  early  snowed 
a  passion  for  war,  and  at  17 
years  evinced  signal  prowess  in 
the  capture  of  some  boats  on  the 
Ohio ;  but  when  his  party  burned 
a  prisoner,  he  was  struck  with 
horror,  and  by  his  eloquence 
SITE  OF  PIQUA.  persuaded  them  never  to  be 

An  Indian  village  and  the  birth-place  of  Tecumseh.  £^  Qf  ft    ^    ^    ^        ^ 

1795,  he  became  a  chief,  and  soon  rose  to  distinction  among  his  people. 

In  1805,  Tecumseh  and  his  brother  Laulewasikaw,  the  prophet,  established 
themselves  at  Greenville  and  ^gained  a  great  influence  over  the  Indians,  through 
the  pretended  sorcery  of  the  latter.  Shortly  after  the  great  project  of  Tecumseh 
was  formed  of  a  confederacy  of  all  the  western  tribes  against  the  whites.  In  this 
he  was  backed,  it  is  supposed,  by  the  insiduous  influence  of  British  agents,  who 
presented  the  Indians  with  ammunition,  in  anticipation,  perhaps,  of  hostilities  be 
tween  the  two  countries,  in  which  event  the  union  of  all  the  tribes  against  the 
Americans  was  desirable. 

The  battle  of  Tippecanoe,  fought  Nov.  7,  1811,  with  the  brother  of  Tecnmseh,in 
which  the  prophet  was  defeated,  for  a  time  annihilated  the  hopes  of  the  brothers. 
Tecumseh  was  not  in  this  battle.  In  the  war  which  soon  after  ensued  with  Eng 
land,  Teeumseh  was  the  ally  of  King  George,  and  held  the  rank  of  brigadier- 
general,  having,  under  his  command,  about  2,000  Indians.  He  was  present  at 
several  engagements,  and  was  eventually  killed  in  the  battle  of  Moravian  towns, 
in  Canada,  near  Detroit,  Oct.  5,  1813. 

"  Thus  fell  the  Indian  warrior  Tecumseh,  in  the  44th  year  of  his  as^e.  He  was  five  feet 
ten  inches  high,  and  with  more  than  usual  stoutness,  possessed  all  the  agility  and  nerse- 


OHIO.  197 

verance  of  the  Indian  character.  His  carriage  was  dignified,  his  eye  penetrating,  his 
countenance,  which  even  in  death,  betrayed  the  indications  of  a  lofty  spirit,  rather  of  the 
sterner  cast.  Had  he  not  possessed  a  certain  austerity  of  manners,  he  could  never  have 
controlled  the  wayward  passions  of  those  who  followed  him  to  battle.  He  was  of  a  silent 
habit ;  but  when  his  eloquence  became  roused  into  action  by  the  reiterated  encroachment 
of  the  Americans,  his  strong  intellect  could  supply  him  with  a  flow  of  oratory  that  enabled 
him,  as  he  governed  in  the  field,  so  to  prescribe  in  the  council." 

"  William  Henry  Harrison  was  born  in  Charles  county,  Virginia,  Feb.  9,  1773  ; 
was  educated  at  Hampden  Sidney  College,  and  afterward  studied  medicine.     He 

received,  from  Washington,  a  military  com 
mission  in  1791,  and  fought  under  Wayne  in 
1792.  After  the  battle  of  Maumee  Rapids,  he 
was  made  captain,  and  placed  in  command  of 
Fort  Washington.  In  1797,  he  was  appointed 
secretary  of  the  North-west  Territory;  and  in  1799  and  1800,  he  was  a  delegate  to 
congress.  Being  appointed  governor  of  Indiana,  he  was  also  superintendent  of 
Indian  affairs,  and  negotiated  thirteen  treaties.  He  gained  a  great  victory  in  the 
battle  of  Tippecanoe,  Nov.  7, 1811.  In  the  war  with  Great  Britain,  he  was  com 
mander  of  the  North-west  army,  and  was  distinguished  in  the  defense  of  Fort 
Meigs,  and  the  victory  of  the  Thames.  From  1816  to  1819,  he  was  a  representa 
tive  in  congress,  from  Ohio;  and  from  1825  to  1828,  United  States  Senator.  In 
1828,  he  was  minister  to  the  Republic  of  Colombia;  and  on  his  return  he  resided 
upon  his  farm,  at  North  Bend,  Ohio.  In  1840,  he  was  elected  president  of  the 
United  States,  by  234  votes  out  of  294,  and  inaugurated  March  4,  1841.  He  died 
in  the  presidential  mansion,  April  4,  1841." 


In  traveling  through  the  west,  one  often  meets  with  scenes  that  remind 
him  of  another  land.     The  foreigner  who   makes  his  home   upon  American 

soil,  does  not  at  once  assimilate 
in  language,  modes  of  life,  and 
current  of  thought  with  those 
congenial  to  his  adopted  coun 
try.  The  German  emigrant  is 
peculiar  in  this  respect,  and  so 
much  attached  is  he  to  his 
fatherland,  that  years  often 
elapse  ere  there  is  any  percepti 
ble  change.  The  annexed  en 
graving,  from  Howe's  Ohio,  il 
lustrates  these  remarks:  "It 
shows  the  mud  cottage  of  a 
German  Swiss  emigrant,  now 
standing  in  the  neighborhood 
of  others  of  like  character,  in 
the  north-western  part  of  Co- 
lumbiana  county,  Ohio.  The 
frame  work  is  of  wood,  with  the  interstices  filled  with  light  colored  clay,  and 
the  whole  surmounted  by  a  ponderous  shingled  roof,  of  a  picturesque  form. 
Beside  the  tenement,  hop  vines  are  clustering  around  their  slender  support 
ers,  while  hard  by  stands  the  abandoned  log  dwelling  of  the  emigrant — de 
serted  for  one  more  congenial  with  his  early  predilections." 

Return  Jonathan  Meigs  *  was  born  in  Middletown,  Connecticut,  in  1740.     He 


Swiss  EMIGRANT'S  COTTAGE. 


*  Lossing  gives  this  pleasant  anecdote  of  the  origin  of  his  name,  RETURN.  "A  bright-eyed 
Connecticut  girl  was  disposed  to  coquette  with  her  lover,  Jonathan  Meigs ;  and  on  one  oc- 


198 

was  a  colonel  in  the  army  of  the  revofution,  and  saw  much  service.  He  was  with 
Arnold  at  Quebec,  was  one  of  the  first  to  mount  the  parapet  at  the  storming  of 
Stony  Point,  and  received  an  elegant  sword  and  a  vote  of  thanks  for  a  gallant  ex 
ploit  at  Sagg  Harbor,  where,  with  70  of  his  "Leather  Cap  Battalion,"  composed  of 
Connecticut  men,  he  stormed  a  British  post,  and  carried  off  nearly  a  hundred  pris 
oners.  After  the  war  he  became  a  surveyor  for  the  Ohio  Land  Company,  ant!  was 
one  of  the  first  settlers  of  Marietta.  He  drew  up  a  system  of  laws  for  the  first  emi 
grants,  which  were  posted  on  a  large  oak  near  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum.  He 
was  appointed  a  judge  by  Gen.  St.  Clair,  and  in  1801  Indian  agent  by  Jefferson 
among  the  Cherokees,  among  whom  he  continued  to  reside  until  his  death,  in  1823, 
at  the°ftge  of  83  years.  The  Indians  loved  and  revered  him  as  a  father.  His  son, 
Return  Jonathan  Meigs,  represented  Ohio  in  the  United  States  Senate,  from  1808  to 
1810;  was  governor  of  the  state  from  1810  to  1814,  and  post-master-general  of  the 
United  States  from  1814  to  1823.  He  died  at  Marietta  in  1825. 

Rufus  Putnam,  who  has  been  styled  "the  FATHER  OF  OHIO,"  was  born  at  Sutton, 
Massachusetts,  in  1738.  He  was  distinguished  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  hold 
ing  the  office  of  brigadier-general.  From  1783  to  1787,  he  was  busy  organizing  a 
company  for  emigrating  to^  and  settling,  the  Ohio  country.  On  the  7th  of  April, 
1788,  he  landed  with  the  first  pioneer  party  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum,  and 
there  founded  Marietta,  the  first  settlement  in  Ohio.  He  was  appointed  surveyor- 
general  of  the  United  States  by  Washington,  in  1796,  was  a  member  of  the  con 
vention  which  formed  the  first  Constitution  of  Ohio,  and  died  in  1824. 

Gen.  Duncan  McArthur,  was  born  of  Scotch  parentage,  in  Dutchess  county,  N. 
Y.,  in  1782,  and  at  the  age  of  18  entered  the  army,  and  was  in  several  Indian  cam 
paigns.  By  force  of  talent  he  rose,  in  1808,  to  the  post  of  major  general  of  the 
state  militia.  At  Hull's  surrender  he  was  second  in  command,  but  on  his  release 
as  a  prisoner  of  war,  the  democratic  party,  by  an  overwhelming  majority,  elected 
him  to  congress.  On  the  resignation  of  Gen.  Harrison,  in  1814,  he  was  in  supreme 
command  of  the  north-west  army,  and  projected  an  expedition  into  Canada,  where, 
at  or  near  Malcolm's  Mill,  he  defeated  a  body  of  Canadians.  He  was  a  represent 
ative  in  congress  again  from  1823  to  1825;  in  1830,  was  chosen  governor  of  the 
state,  and  died  a  few  years  later.  He  was  a  strong-minded,  energetic  man,  and 
possessed  a  will  of  iron. 

Gen.  Nathaniel  Massie  was  born  in  Virginia,  in  1763,  and  was  bred  a  surveyor. 
In  1791,  he  made  the  first  settlement  within  the  Virginia  Military  District,  the 
fourth  in  Ohio,  and  the  only  one  between  the  Scioto  and  Little  Miami,  until  after 
the  treaty  of  Greenville  in  1795.  This  was  at  Manchester,  on  the  Ohio,  opposite 
Maysville,  Ky.  His  business,  for  years,  was  the  surveying  of  lands  in  the  military 
district  His  payments  were  liberal,  as  he  received  in  many  cases  one  half  of  the 
land  for  making  the  locations;  yet  the  risk  was  immense,  for,  during  the  Indian 
hostilities,  every  creek  that  was  explored  and  every  line  that  was  run,  was  done 
by  stealth  and  at  the  risk  of  life  from  the  lurking  Indians,  from  whom  he  had  sev 
eral  narrow  escapes. 

After  the  defeat  of  the  Indians  by  Wayne,  the  surveyors  were  not  interrupted 
by  the  Indians ;  but  on  one  of  thei^  excursions,  still  remembered  as  "  the  starving 
tour,"  the  whole  party,  consisting  •.-;  ^S  «uen,  suffered  extremely  in  a  driving  snow 
storm  for  about  four  days.  They  A  ^  in  a  wilderness,  exposed  to  this  severe 
storm,  without  hut,  tent,  or  covering,  and  what  was  still  more  appalling,  without 
provision,  and  without  any  road  or  even  track  to  retreat  on,  and  were  nearly  100 
miles  from  any  place  of  shelter.  On  the  third  day  of  the  storm,  they  luckily  killed 

oasion,  when  be  bad  pressed  his  suit  with  great  earnestness,  and  asked  for  a  positive  an- 
pwer,  she  feigned  coolness,  and  would  give  nim  no  satisfaction.  The  lover  resolved  to  be 
trifled  with  no  longer,  and  bade  her  farewell,  forever.  She  perceived  her  error,  but  he  was 
allowed  to  go  far  down  the  lane  before  her  pride  would  yield  to  the  more  tender  emotions 
of  her  heart.  Then  she  ran  to  the  gate  and  cried,  "  Return,  Jonathan  !  Return,  Jonathan  t " 
He  did  return,  they  were  joined  in  wedlock,  and  in  commemoration  of  these  happy  words 
of  the  sorrowing  girl,  they  named  their  first  child,  Return  Jonathan — afterward  a  hero  in 
our  war  for  independence,  a  noble  western  pioneer,  and  a  devoted  friend  of  the  Chetwiees  " 


OHIO. 


199 


GRAVE  OF  SIMON   KENTON. 


two  wild  turkeys,  which  were  boiled  and  divided  into  28  parts,  and  devoured  with 
great  avidity,  heads,  feet,  entrails  and  all. 

In  1796,  Massie  laid  the  foundation  of  the  settlement  of  the  Scioto  valley,  by  lay 
ing  out  on  his  own  land  the  now  large  and  beautiful  town  of  Chill icothe.  The 
progress  of  the  settlements  brought  large  quantities  of  his  land  into  market. 

Gen.  Massie  was  a  member  of  the  convention  which  formed  the  first  state  consti 
tution.  Tn  1807,  he  was  a  competitor  with  Return  Jonathan  Meigs  for  governor, 
they  being  the  two  most  popular  men  in  Ohio.  Meigs  was  elected  by  a  slight 
majority.  Massie  contested  the  election,  Meigs  having  lost  his  residence  by  absence. 
The  legislature  decided  in  Massie's  favor,  whereupon  he  magnanimously  resigned. 
In  1813,  this  noble  pioneer  was  gathered  to  his  fathers. 

Simon  Kenton,  a  native  of  Culpepper  county,  Virginia,  and  one  of  the 

bravest  and  noblest  of 
western  pioneers,  and  the 
friend  of  Daniel  Boone, 
resided  in  the  latter  part 
of  his  life,  on  the  head 
waters  of  Mad  River, 
about  five  miles  north  of 
Bellefontaine,  in  Logan 
county.  His  dwelling 
was  the  small  log  house 
shown  on  the  extreme 
right  of  the  annexed  view. 
There  he  died,  in  1836, 
at  the  advanced  age  of 
81  years.  When  16  years 
of  age,  he  had  an  affray 
with  a  young  man  who  had  married  his  lady  love.  Supposing,  erroneously, 
that  he  had  killed  his  rival,  he  fled  to  the  wilderness  of  Kentucky.  This 
was  in  the  year  1771.  From  that  time,  during  the  whole  of  the  revolution 
ary  war,  down  to  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  in  1795,  he  was  probably  in  more 
expeditions  against  the  Indians,  encountered  greater  peril,  performed  more 
heroic  feats,  and  had  more  narrow  escapes  from  death,  than  any  man  of  his 
time. 

In  1778,  he  was  captured  by  the  Indians,  compelled  to  run  the  gauntlet,  and  then 
condemned  to  be  burnt  at  the  stake.  He  was  saved  by  the  interposition  of  Simon 
Girty,  a  renegade  white,  who  had  known  Kenton  in  Dunrnore's  campaign.  Shortly 
after  he  was  again  sentenced  to  death,  and  a  second  time  was  saved  by  a  Canadian 
Frenchman,  who  prevailed  upon  the  Indians  to  send  him  to  the  British  at  Detroit 
From  thence  he  finally  escaped,  and  again  engaged  in  Indian  warfare. 

In  1782,  hearing  he  had  not  killed  his  rival  in  love,  he  returned  to  Virginia,  in 
order  to  remove  his  father's  family  to  his  new  home  in  Kentucky.  Notwithstand 
ing  the  great  services  he  had  rendered  his  country,  on  account  of  some  defect  in 
his  land  titles,  he  lost  his  property,  and  was  imprisoned  twelve  months  for  debt,  on 
the  very  spot  where  he  had  built  his  cabin  in  1775.  In  1802,  he  settled  in  Urbana, 
Ohio,  where  he  remained  some  years,  and  was  elected  brigadier  general  of  militia. 
He  was  in  the  war  of  1812,  under  Harrison,  at  the  battle  of  Moravian  town,  where 
he  displayed  his  usual  intrepidity.  About  the  year  1820,  he  removed  to  the  lieu  1 
of  Mad  River.  At  the  time  of  his  death  the  frosts  of  more  than  80  winters  h:nl 
fallen  on  his  head  without  entirely  whitening  his  locks.  His  biographer  thus  de 
scribes  his  personal  appearance  and  character : 

"  General  Kenton  was  of  fair  complexion,  six  feet  one  inch  in  hight  He  stoo-I 
and  walked  very  erect;  and,  in  the  prime  of  Hfe,  weighed  about  one  hundred  and 
ninety  pounds.  He  never  was  inclined  to  be  corpulert,  although  of  sufficient  full 
ness  to  form,  a  graceful  person.  He  had  a  soft,  tremulous  voice,  very  pleasing  to 


200 


OHIO. 


r.     He  had  laughing  gray  eyes,  which  seemed  to  fascinate  the  beholder, 
pleasant,  good-humored  and  obliging  companion.     When  excited,  or  pro- 


the  hearer. 

He  was  a  pleasant,  gf 

voked  to  anger  (which  was  seldom  the  case),  the  fiery  glance  of  his  eye  would  al 
most  curdle^the  blood  of  those  with  whom  he  came  in  contact.  His  rage,  when 
roused,  was  a  tornado.  In  his  dealing,  he  was  perfectly  honest;  his  confidence  in 
man,  and  his  credulity,  were  such,  that  the  same  man  might  cheat  him  twenty 
times;  and  if  he  professed  friendship,  he  might  cheat  him  still." 

Jacob  Burnet  was  born  in  Newark,  N.  J.,  in  1770,  educated  at  Princeton,  and 
in  1796  admitted  to  the  bar.  He  then  emigrated  to  Cincinnati,  and  commenced 
the  practice  of  his  profession.  Until  the  formation  of  the  constitution  of  Ohio,  in 
1802,  he  attended  court  regularly  at  Cincinnati,  Marietta  and  Detroit,  the  last  of 
which  was  then  the  seat  of  justice  for  Wayne  county.  The  jaunts  between  these 
remote  places  were  attended  with  exposure,  fatigue,  and  hazard,  and  were  usually 
performed  on  horseback,  in  parties  of  two  or  more,  through  a  wilderness  country. 
At  that  period  the  whole  white  population  between  Pennsylvania  and  the  Missis 
sippi,  the  Ohio  and  the  lakes,  was  only  about  5,000  souls.  Mr.  Burnet  at  once  rose 
to  the  front  rank  in  his  profession.  He  was  appointed,  in  1799,  a  member  of  the 
first  territorial  legislature  of  the  North-West  Territory ;  and  the  first  code  of  laws 
were  almost  wholly  framed  by  him.  In  1821,  he  became  one  of  the  judges  of  the 
supreme  court  of  Ohio;  and  in  1828,  was  elected  to  the  national  senate,  as  suc 
cessor  of  Gen.  Harrison.  Nearly  his  entire  life  was  passed  in  positions  of  honor 
and  responsibility.  On  the  recommendation  of  Lafayette,  he  was  elected  a  mem 
ber  of  the  French  Academy  of  Sciences.  His  Notes  upon  the  North- West  Terri 
tory  are  among  the  most  valuable  contributions  to  the  history  of  the  west  extant 
Judge  Burnet  died  in  1 853,  aged  83  years. 

BRADY'S  LEAP. 

It  was  across  the  Cuyahoga  River,  in  northern  Ohio,  near  the  site  of  Franklin  Mills, 
and  a  few  miles  east  of  the  village  of  Cuyahoga  Falls,  that  the  noted  Capt.  Sam'l  Brady 

made  his  famous  leap  for  life,  about 
the  year  1780,  when  pursued  by  a 
party  of  Indians.  Brady  was  the 
Daniel  Boone  of  the  north- east  part 
of  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  which  is 
full  of  traditions  of  his  hardy  adven 
tures  and  hairbreadth  escapes.  Bra 
dy's  Pond  is  the  spot  where  Brady 
concealed  himself  after  his  leap,  the 
circumstances  of  which  we  quote  be 
low.  It  is  a  small,  beautiful  sheet  of 
water,  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
village,  a  little  north  of  the  Ravenna 
road : 

•     "  Having  in  peaceable  times  often 
hunted  over  this  ground  with  the  In- 
BUADV'S  POND.  dians,  and  knowing  every  turn  of  the 

Cuyahoga  as  familiarly  as  the  villager 

knows  the  streets  of  his  own  hamlet,  Brady  directed  his 'course  to  the  river,  at  a  spot  where 
the  whole  stream  is  compressed,  by  the  rocky  cliffs,  into  a  narrow  channel  of  only  22  feet 
across  the  top  of  the  chasm,  although  it  is  considerably  wider  beneath,  near  the  water,  and 
in  highth  more  than  twice  that  number  of  feet  above  the  current.  Through  this  pass  the 
water  rushes  like  a  race  horse,  chafing  and  roaring  at  the  confinement  of  its  current  by  the 
rocky  channel,  while,  a  short  distance  above,  the  steam  is  at  least  fifty  yards  wide.  As  he 
approached  the  chasm,  Brady,  knowing  that  life  or  death  was  in  the  effort,  concentrated 
his  mighty  powers,  and  leaped  the  stream  at  a  single  bound.  It  so  happened,  that  on  the 
opposite  cliff,  the  leap  was  favored  by  a  low  place,  into  which  he  dropped,  and  grasping  the 
bushes,  he  thus  helped  himself  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  cliff.  The  Indians,  for  a  few 
moments,  were  lost  in  wonder  and  admiration,  and  before  they  had  recovered  their  recol 
lection,  he  was  half  way  up  the  side  of  the  opposite  hill,  but  still  within  reach  of  their 
rifles.  They  could  easily  have  shot  him  at  any  moment  before,  but  being  bent  on  taking 
him  alive  for  torture,  and  to  glut  their  long  delayed  revenge,  they  forbore  to  use  the  rifle; 
but  now  seeing  him  likely  to  escape,  thev  all  fired  upon  him:  one  bullet  severely  wounded 


OHIO. 


201 


him  in  the  hip,  but  not  so  badly  as  to  prevent  his  progress.  The  Indians  having  to  make 
a  considerable  circuit  before  they  could  cross  the  stream,  Brady  advanced  a  goo'd  distance 
ahead.  His  limb  was  growing  stiff  from  the  wound,  and  as  the  Indians  gained  on  him,  he 
made  for  the  pond  which  now  bears  his  name,  and  plunging  in,  swam  under  water  a  con 
siderable  distance,  and  came  up  under  the  trunk  of  a  large  oak,  which  had  fallen  into  the 
pond.  This,  although  leaving  only  a  small  breathing  place  to  support  life,  still  completely 
sheltered  him  from  their  sight.  The  Indians,  tracing  him  by  the  blood  to  the  water,  made 
diligent  search  all  round  the  pond,  but  finding  no  signs  of  his  exit,  finally  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  he  had  sunk  and  was  drOAvned.  As  they  were  at  one  time  standing  on  the 
very  tree,  beneath  which  he  was  concealed,  Brady,  understanding  their  language,  was  very 
glad  to  hear  the  result  of  their  deliberations,  and  after  they  had  gone,  weary,  lame,  and 
hungry,  he  made  good  his  retreat  to  his  own  home.  His  followers  also  returned  in  safety. 
The  chasm  across  which  he  leaped  is  in  sight  of  the  bridge  where  we  crossed  the  Cuya- 
hoga,  and  is  known  in  all  that  region  by  the  name  of  '  Brady's  Leap.'  " 


In  the  center  of  the  beautiful  public  square  in  Cleveland  stands  the  statue 
of  Oliver  Hazard  Perry,  the  "  Hero  of  Lake  Erie."     It  was  inaugurated  with 

great  ceremony  on  the  10th 
of  September,  1860,  the  an 
niversary  of  his  signal  vic 
tory.  Among  those  pres 
ent  were  the  governor  and 
legislature  of  Rhode  Island, 
Perry's  native  state,  soldiers 
of  the  last  war,  survivors 
of  the  battle  of  Lake  Erie, 
military  from  Rhode  Island, 
New  York,  Pennsylvania, 
and  about  70,000  visitors 
from  the  surrounding  coun 
try.  Among  the  ceremo 
nies  of  the  occasion  was  a 
mock  battle  on  the  lake  in 
imitation  of  that  which  ter 
minated  in  the  victory  of 
Perry.  Hon.  Geo.  Bancroft 
was  the  orator  of  the  day. 
The  statue  is  of  Carrara 
marble,  standing  upon  a 
high  pedestal  of  Rhode 
Island  granite.  The  figure 
can  not  be  better  described 
than  in  the  words  of  Mr. 

THE  PERKY  STATUE,  AT  CLEVELAND.  Walcutt,  the  artist,  after  he 

had  unvailed  the  statue:  "It  is  the  Commander — bold  and  confident— giving 
directions  to  his  men,  while  watching  through  the  smoke  of  battle  the  effect 
of  his  broadsides  on  the  enemy.  Figuratively,  it  is  the  impersonation  of 
the  triumphant  hero,  gazing  with  pride  and  enthusiasm  over  the  beautiful 
land  he  saved  by  his  valor,  and  pointing  to  the  lake  as  if  reminding  us  of 
the  scene  of  his  victory."  The  drapery  represents  the  official  dress  of  a 
commodore  in  the  United  States  navy.  On  the  front  of  the  pedestal  is  an 
alto-relievo,  representing  the  incident  of  Perry's  passage  from  the  Lawrence 
to  the  Niagara,  with  an  inscription  recording  the  date  of  the  engagement. 
On  either  side  of  the  pedestal  is  a  figure,  representing  a  sailor-boy  and  mid 
shipman. 


202  OHIO. 

Arthur  St.  Clair,  the  first  governor  of  the  North-west  Territory,  was  a  native 
of  Scotland.  He  was  a  lieutenant  under  Wolfe,  and  a  major  general  in  the  Revo 
lution;  subsequently  was  a  delegate  to  congress  from  Pennsylvania,  and,  in  1787, 
was  chosen  its  president  While  governor  of  the  North-west  Territory,  from  1788 
to  1802,  he  was  much  esteemed  by  the  people,  being  easy  and  frank  in  his  address, 
of  great  integrity  and  uprightness  of  purpose,  and  of  extensive  information.  He 
had  the  respect  and  friendship  of  Washington.  The  great  misfortune  of  his  life 
was  his  sore  defeat  by  the  Indians,  Nov.  4,  1791.  He  died  in  abject  poverty,  in 
1818,  in  a  cabin  among  the  mountains  of  Pennsylvania. 

Col.  Jared  Mansfield  was  born  in  New  Haven,  Conn.,  in  1759.  He  was  edu 
cated  at  Yale  College,  and  was  subsequently  professor  of  natural  philosophy  at 
West  Point.  He  was  appointed,  by  President  Jefferson,  surveyor  general  of  the 
United  States,  upon  which  he  introduced  and  perfected  the  present  admirable  sys 
tem  of  dividing  the  public  land,  by  north  and  south  and  east  and  west  lines,  into 
ranges,  townships  and  sections.  This  simple  plan  has  been  of  an  untold  benefit  to 
the  rapid  and  easy  settlement  of  the  west.  He  died  in  1830.  Ed.  D.  Mansfield, 
Esq.,  the  commissioner  of  statistics  for  the  state  of  Ohio,  is  his  son. 

Charles  Hammond  was  born  in  Maryland  in  1779,  and  died  in  Cincinnati  in 
1840,  where  most  of  his  life  was  passed.  He  was  one  of  the  most  able  of  lawyers 
and  as  a  journalist  acquired  a  greater  reputation  than  any  man  who  ever  resided 
in  the  west  For  many  years  he  edited  the  Cincinnati  Gazette. 

Nathan  Guilford,  lawyer  and  journalist  of  Cincinnati,  was  born  in  Spencer, 
Mass.,  in  1786,  and  died  in  1854.  His  memory  is  especially  revered  for  his  long 
and  eminent  services  in  laying  the  foundation  of  the  common  schools  of  Ohio — 
u  a  state  which  has  one  third  of  a  million  of  men  capable  of  bearing  arms,  but 
keeps  no  standing  army  but  her  school  teachers,  of  whom  she  pays  more  than 
20,000,  which  provides  a  library  for  every  school  district,  and  registers  as  students 
more  than  600,000  children.  These  growing  in  beauty  and  strength  in  this  land 
of  the  wheat,  the  corn  and  the  vine,  where  the  purity  of  domestic  morals  is  main 
tained  by  the  virtue  and  dignity  of  woman,  constitutes  its  present  glory  and  its 
future  hope." 


THE   TIMES 


OF 


THE      IR  IE  B  E  L  L I  O  1ST 


IN 


OHIO. 


No  state  has  more  cause  to  be  gratified  with  her  record  during  the 
life  and  death  struggle  of  the  nation  than  Ohio.  Her  sons  have  been 
among  the  bravest  in  the  field,  and  the  wisest  in  the  council.  Her 
patriotic  governors,  who  have  ever  given  such  a  warm  support  to  all 
measures  affecting  the  public  good,  and  the  cabinet  officer,  who  so 
wisely  devised  means  for  furnishing  the  sinews  of  war,  have  rendered 
service  not  less  efficient  than  that  of  her  generals,  who  have  marshaled 
vast  armies,  and  achieved  great  victories. 

But  not  less  honor  is  due  to  those  who,  with  their  bayonets  in  the 
field,  and  their  ballots  at  home,  have  done  so  much  for  the  union  and 
perpetuity  of  our  government. 

How  freely  she  contributed  blood  and  treasure  is  manifest  from  the 
following  facts.  At  the  beginning  of  1865,  she  had  100,000  men  en 
listed  in  the  military  service  of  the  general  government ;  and  the 
grand  total  furnished,  from  the  beginning  of  the  war,  then  amounted 
to  346,326.  The  total  loss  of  Ohio  soldiers  to  January,  1865,  was 
estimated  at  30,000. 

The  state  pays  one  tenth  of  the  internal  revenue  tax.  For  the 
year  ending  November  1,  1865,  this  was  placed  at  $24,000,000.  The 
total  landed  property  in  the  state  was,  in  value,  exclusive  of  town  lots, 
$500,000,000,  divided  among  277,000  owners. 

The  early  days  of  the  rebellion  were  marked,  in  Ohio,  by  the  same 
features  of  enthusiastic  uprising  of  the  people  as  in  the  other  loyal 
states  :  but  it  was  not  until  the  last  days  of  the  summer  of  1862,  that 
the  sensation  of  danger  from  the  presence  of  the  enemy  on  her  soil 
was  experienced.  This  was  the  threatened  invasion  of  Cincinnati  by 
Kirby  Smith. 

THE  SIEGE  OF  CINCINNATI. — After  the  unfortunate  battle  of  Eich- 
mond,  on  the  29th  of  August,  Kirby  Smith,  with  his  15,000  rebel  vet 
erans,  advanced  into  the  heart  of  Kentucky,  took  possession  of  Lex 
ington,  Frankfort,  and  Maysville.  Bragg,  with  his  large  army,  was 
then  crossing  the  Kentucky  line ;  while  Morgan,  with  his  guerrilla 
cavalry,  was  already  joined  to  Smith.  Pondrous-proportioned  Hum 
phrey  Marshall  was  also  busy  swelling  the  rebel  ranks  with  recruits 
from  the  fiery  young  Kentuckians.  Affairs  looked  threateningly  on 
the  border.  (203) 


204  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

General  Lewis  Wallace  was  at  once  placed  in  command  at  Cincin 
nati,  by  order  of  Major-G-eneral  Wright.  Soon  as  he  arrived  in  the 
city,  on  Thursday,  the  4th  of  September,  he  put  Cincinnati,  and  the 
two  cities  on  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  Ohio,  Newport  and  Covington, 
under  marshal  law,  and,  within  half  an  hour  of  his  arrival,  he  issued 
a  proclamation  suspending  all  business,  stopping  the  ferry-boats  from 
plying  the  river,  and  summoning  all  citizens  to  enrol  themselves  for 
defense.  It  was  most  effective.  It  totally  closed  business,  and  sent 
every  citizen,  without  distinction,  to  the  ranks  or  into  the  trenches. 
Nor  was  it  needless,  for  the  enemy,  within  a  few  days  thereafter,  ad 
vanced  to  within  five  miles  of  the  city,  on  the  Kentucky  side,  and 
skirmished  with  our  outposts.  A  painter,  of  the  time,  draws  this  pic 
ture  of  the  events. 

The  ten  days  ensuing  will  be  forever  memorable  in  the  annals  of  the  city  of  Cin 
cinnati.  The<  cheerful  alacrity  with  which  the  people  rose  en  masse  to  swell  the 
ranks  and  crowd  into  the  trenches  was  a  sight  worth  seeing.  Of  course,  there 
were  a  few  timid  creatures  who  feared  to  obey  the  summons.  Sudden  illness 
overtook  some.  Others  were  hunted  up  by  armed  men  with  fixed  bayonets;  fer 
reted  from  back  kitchens,  garrets  and  cellars  where  they  were  hiding.  One  peace 
fully  excited  individual  was  found  in  his  wife's  clothes,  scrubbing  at  the  wash-tub. 
He  was  put  in  one  of  the  German  working  parties,  who  received  him  with  shouts 
of  laughter. 

The  citizens  thus  collected  were  the  representatives  of  of  all  classes  and  many 
nativities.  The  man  of  money,  the  man  of  law.  the  merchant,  the  artist,  and  the 
artisan  swelled  the  lines,  hastening  to  the  scene  of  action,  armed  either  with  mus 
ket,  pick  or  spade. 

But  the  pleasantest  and  most  picturesque  sight  of  those  remarkable  days  was 
the  almost  endless  stream  of  sturdy  men  who  rushed  to  the  rescue  from  the  rural 
districts  of  the  state.  These  were  known  as  the  " squirrel-hunters."  They  camo 
in  files,  numbering  thousands  upon  thousands,  in  all  kinds  of  costumes,  and  armed 
with  all  kinds  of  fire-arms,  but  chiefly  the  deadly  rifle,  which  they  knew  so  well 
how  to  use. 

Old  men,  middle-aged  men,  and  often  mere  boys,  like  the  "  minute  men  "  of  the 
old  Revolution,  they  dropped  all  their  peculiar  avocations,  and  with  their  leathern 
pouches  full  of  bullets,  and  their  ox  horns  full  of  powder,  by  every  railroad  and 
-by-way,  in  such  numbers  that  it  seemed  as  if  the  whole  State  of  Ohio  were  peo 
pled  only  with  hunters,  and  that  the  spirit  of  Daniel  Boone  stood  upon  the  hills 
opposite  the  town  beckoning  them  into  Kentucky. 

The  pontoon  bridge  over  the  Ohio,  which  had  been  begun  and  completed  be 
tween  sundown  and  sundown,  groaned  day  and  night  with  the  perpetual  stream  of 
of  life,  all  setting  southward.  In  three  days,  there  were  ten  miles  of  intrench- 
ments  lining  the  Kentucky  hills,  making  a  semi- circle  from  the  river  above  the 
city  to  the  banks  of  the  river  below ;  and  these  were  thickly  manned,  from  end  to 
end,  and  made  terrible  to  the  astonished  enemy  by  black  and  frowning  cannon. 

General  Heth,  with  his  15,000  veterans,  flushed  with  their  late  success  at  Rich 
mond,  drew  up  before  these  formidable  preparations,  and  deemed  it  prudent  to 
take  the  matter  into  serious  consideration,  before  making  the  attack. 

Our  men  were  eagerly  awaiting  their  approach,  thousands  in  rifle-pits  and  tens 
of  thousands  along  the  whole  line  of  fortifications,  while  our  scouts  and  pickets 
were  skirmishing  with  their  outposts  in  the  plains  in  front.  Should  the  foe  make 
a  sudden  dash  and  carry  any  point  of  our  lines,  it  was  thought  by  some  that 
nothing  would  prevent  them  from  entering  Cincinnati. 

But  for  this,  provision  was  also  made.  The  city,  above  and  below,  was  well- 
protected  by  a  flotilla  of  gun-boats,  improvised  from  the  swarm  of  steamers  which 
lay  at  the  wharves.  The  shrewd  leaders  of  the  rebel  army  were  probably  kept 
well-posted,  by  traitors  within  our  own  lines,  in  regard  to  the  reception  prepared 
for  them,  and  taking  advantage  of  the  darkness  of  night  and  the  violence  of  a 


IN  OHIO. 


205 


thunder  storm,  made  a  hasty  and  ruinous  retreat.     Wallace  was  anxious  to  follow 
and  was  confident  of  success,  but  was  overruled  by  those  higher  in  authority. 

To  the  above  general  view  of  the  siege,  we  contibute  our  individual 
experience.  Such  an  experience  of  the  entire  war  in  a  diary  by  a 
citizen,  of  the  genius  of  Defoe,  would  outlive  a  hundred  common  his 
tories  ;  centuries  hence  be  preserved  among  the  choice  collections  of 
American  historic  literature.  It  would  illustrate,  as  nothing  else  could, 
the  inner  life  of  our  people  in  this  momentous  period — their  varying 
emotions  and  sentiments ;  their  surprise  and  indignation  at  the  trea 
son  to  the  beautiful  country  of  their  love ;  their  never-equaled  patri 
otism  and  generosity;  their  unquenchable  hope;  the  almost  despair 
that,  at  times,  settled  upon  them,  when  all  seemed  but  lost,  through 
the  timidity  and  irresolution  of  weak  generals  in  the  field;  the  in 
trigues  and  intended  treachery  of  demagogues  at  home.  Then  the 
groping  forward,  like  children  in  the  dark,  of  millions  of  loyal  hearts 
for  some  mighty  arm  to  guide ;  some  mighty  intellect  to  reveal  and 
thus  relieve  the  awful  suspense  as  to  the  future ;  as  though  any  mere 
man  had  an  attribute  that  alone  is  of  God.  Finally,  through  the 
agony  of  sore  adversities  came  the  looking  upward  to  the  only  power 
that  could  help.  Thus  the  religious  instincts  became  deepened.  Vis 
ions  of  the  higher  life,  dwarfed  the  large  things  of  this:  and  through 
faith  came  greater  blessings,  than  the  wisest  among  the  good  had 
hoped. 

On  the  morning  the  city  was  put  under  martial  law,  I  found  the  streets  full  of 
armed  police  in  army  blue,  and  all,  without  respect  to  age,  compelled  to  report  at 
the  headquarters*  of  their  respective  districts  for  enrolment.  An  unwilling  citi 
zen,  seeing  the  bayonet  leveled  at  him,  could  but  yield  to  the  inexorable  logic  of 
military  despotism.  It  was  perilous  to  walk  the  streets  without  a  pass.  At  every 
corner  stood  a  sentinel. 

The  colored  men  were  roughly  handled  by  the  Irish  police.  From  hotels  and 
barber  shops,  in  the  midst  of  their  labors,  these  helpless  people  were  pounced  upon 
and  often  bareheaded  and  in  shirtsleeves,  just  as  seized,  driven  in  squads,  at  the 
point  of  the  bayonet,  and  gathered  in  vacant  yards  and  guarded.  What  rendered 
this  act  more  than  ordinarily  atrocious  was,  that  they,  through  their  head  men, 
had,  at  the  first  alarm,  been  the  earliest  to  volunteer  their  services  to  our  mayor, 
for  the  defense  of  our  common  homes.  It  was  a  sad  sight  to  see  human  beings 
treated  like  reptiles.  The  undying  hate  of  a  low  Irishman  to  an  oppressed  race 
is  but  a  measure  of  his  own  degradation  and  vileness. 

Enrolled  in  companies,  we  were  daily  drilled.  One  of  these,  in  our  ward,  was 
composed  of  old  men,  termed  "  Silver  Grays."  Among  its  members  were  the  ven 
erable  Judge  Leavitt  of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court,  and  other  eminent  citi 
zens.  Grandfathers  were  seen  practicing  the  manual,  and  lifting  alternate  feet  to 
the  cadence  of  mark-time. 

At  this  stage  of  affairs,  the  idea  that  our  colored  citizens  possessed  warlike 
qualities  was  a  subject  for  scoffing;  the  scoffers  forgetting  that  the  race  in  ances 
tral  Africa  including  even  the  women  had  been  in  war  since  the  days  of  Ham; 
strangely  oblivious  also  to  the  fact  that  our  foreign  born  city  police  could  only  by 
furious  onslaughts,  made  with  Hibernian  love  of  the  thing,  quell  the  frequent  pug 
nacious  outbreaks  of  the  crispy-haired  denisons  of  our  own  Bucktown.  From 
this  view,  or  more  probably  a  delicate  sentiment  of  tenderness,  instead  of  being 
armed  and  sent  forth  to  the  dangers  of  the  battle,  they  were  consolidated  into  a 
peaceful  brigade  of  workers  in  the  trenches  back  of  Newport,  under  the  philan 
thropic  guidance  of  the  Hon.  Win.  M.  Dickson. 

The  daily  morning  march  of  the  corps  down  Broadway  to  labor  was  a  species  of 
the  mottled  picturesque.  At  their  head  was  the  stalwart,  manly  form  of  the  land- 


206  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

lord  of  the  Dumas  house.  Starting  back  on  the  honest,  substantial,  coal-black 
foundation,  all  shades  o£  color  were  exhibited,  degenerating  out  through  successive 
gradations  to  an  ashy  white;  the  index  of  Anglo-saxon  fatherhood  of  the  chival 
rous  American  type.  Arrayed  for  dirt-work  in  their  oldest  clothes ;  apparently 
the  fags  of  every  conceivable  kind  of  cast-off,  kicked  about  and  faded  out  garments; 
crownless  and  lop-eared  hats,  diverse  boots ;  with  shouldered  pick,  shovel  and  hoe ; 
this  merry,  chattering,  piebald,  grotesque  body,  shuffled  along  amid  grins  and 
jeers,  reminding  us  of  the  ancient  nursery  distich : 

"  Hark  I  hark  1  hear  the  dogs  bark, 
The  beggars  are  coming  to  town, 
Some  in  rags,  some  in  tags, 
And  some  in  velvet  gowns." 

Tuesday  night,  September  9th,  1862,  was  starlight;  the  air  soft  and  balmy' 
With  others,  I  was  on  guard  at  an  improvised  armory, — the  old  American  Express 
buildings,  on  Third-street  near  Broadway.  Three  hours  past  midnight,  from  a  sig 
nal-tower  three  blocks  east  of  us,  a  rocket  suddenly  shot  high  in  the  air;  then  the 
fire-bell  pealed  an  alarm.  All  was  again  quiet.  Half  an  hour  passed.  Hurrying 
footsteps  neared  us.  They  were  those  of  the  indefatigable,  public-spirited  John 
D.  C.  "Kirby  Smith,"  said  he,  quickly,  "is  advancing  on  the  city.  The  military 
are  to  muster  on  the  landing  and  cross  the  river  at  sunrise." 

Six  o'clock  struck  as  I  entered  my  own  door.  The  good  woman  was  up.  The 
four  little  innocents — two  of  a  kind — were  asleep;  in  the  bliss  of  ignorance,  happy 
in  quiet  slumber.  A  few  moments  of  hurried  preparation,  and  I  was  ready  for 
the  campaign.  The  provisions  these:  a  heavy  blanket-shawl;  a  few  good  cigars; 
a  haversack  loaded  with  eatables,  and  a  black  bottle  of  medicinal  liquid — cherry 
bounce,  very  choice. 

As  I  stepped  out  on  the  pavement,  my  neighbor  did  the  same.  He,  too,  was  off 
for  the  war.  At  each  of  our  adjoining  chamber-windows,  stood  a  solitary  female. 
Neither  could  see  the  other  though  not  ten  feet  apart:  a  wall  intervening.  Sad 
ness  and  merriment  were  personified.  Tears  bedewed  and  apprehension  elongated 
the  face  of  the  one.  Laughter  dimpled  and  shortened  the  face  of  the  other.  The 
one  thought  of  her  protector  as  going  forth  to  encounter  the  terrors  of  battle :  vis 
ions  of  wounds  and  death  were  before  her.  The  other  thought  of  hers  with  only 
a  prospect  of  a  little  season  of  rural  refreshment  on  the  Kentucky  hills,  to  return 
in  safety  with  an  appetite  ravenous  as  a  wolf's  for  freshly-dug  pink-eyes,  and  Beres- 
ford's  choice  cuts. 

We  joined  our  regiment  at  the  landing.  This  expanse  of  acres  was  crowded 
with  armed  citizens,  in  companies  and  regiments.  Two  or  three  of  our  frail,  egg 
shell  river  steamers,  converted  into  gun-boats,  were  receiving  from  drays  bales  of 
hay  for  bul  works.  The  pontoon  was  a  moving  panorama  of  newly  made  warriors, 
and  wagons  of  munitions  hastening  southward.  Back  of  the  plain  of  Covington 
and  Newport,  rose  the  softly-rounded  hills:  beyond  these  were  our  blood  thirsty 
foe.  Our  officers  tried  to  maneuver  our  regiment.  They  were  too  ignorant  to  ma 
neuver  themselves:  it  was  like  handling  a  rope  of  sand.  Drums  beat;  fifes 
squeaked,  and  we  crossed  the  pontoon.  The  people  of  Covington  filled  their 
doorways  and  windows  to  gaze  at  the  passing  pageant.  To  my  fancy,  they  looked 
scowlingly.  No  cheers,  no  smiles  greeted  us.  It  was  a  staring  silence.  The  rebel 
army  had  been  largely  recruited  from  the  town. 

March !  march  !  march  !  We  struck  the  hills.  The  way  up  seemed  intermin 
able.  The  broiling  September  sun  poured  upon  us  like  a  furnace.  The  road  was 
an  ash  heap.  Clouds  of  limestone  dust  whitened  us  like  millers,  filling  our  nos 
trils  and  throats  with  impalpable  powder.  The  cry  went  up,  water!  water!  Lit 
tle  or  none  was  to  be  had.  The  unusual  excitement  and  exertion  told  upon  me. 
Years  before,  I  had,  bearing  my  knapsack,  performed  pedestrian  tours  of  thous 
ands  of  miles.  Had  twice  walked  across  ^New  York;  once  from  the  Hudson  to 
the  lake:  in  the  hotest  of  summer  had  footed  it  from  Richmond  to  Lynsh- 
burg.  No  forty  or  fifty  miles  a  day  had  ever  wilted  me  like  this  march  of  only 
four.  But  my  muscles  had  been  relaxed  by  years  of  continuous  office  labor.  I 
had  been  on  my  feet  on  guard  duty  all  night.  Everything  unaccustomed  1  had 


IN  OHIO.  207 

about  me  felt  heavy;  my  musket,  my  blanket-shawl,  my  haversack;  all  but  my 
black  bottle.  Keluctantly  1  drew  on  my  reserve,  making  the  bottle  still  lighter. 
The  reminiscence  to  this  hour  is  to  me,  a  bronchial  benefit. 

Near  the  top  of  the  hills,  some  500  feet  above  the  Ohio  level,  our  regiment 
halted,  when  our  officers  galloped  ahead.  We  broke  ranks  and  laid  down  under 
the  wayside  fence.  Five  minutes  elapsed.  Back  cantered  the  cortege.  "Fall 
into  line  I  Fall  into  line  !  Quick,  men  I  "  was  the  cry.  They  rode  among  us. 
Our  colonel  exclaimed — "you  are  now  going  into  battle  !  The  enemy  are  advanc 
ing  !  You  will  receive  sixty  rounds  of  cartridges  !  Do  your  duty,  men  !  do  your 
duty  !  "  I  fancied  it  a  ruse  to  test  our  courage  :  and  so  experienced  a  sense  of 
shame,  i  looked  upon  the  men  around  me.  Not  a  word  was  spoken :  not  one 
smiled.  No  visible  emotion  of  any  kind  appeared,  only  weary  faces,  dirty,  sweaty 
and  blowsy  with  the  burning  heat 

1  dropped  my  cartridges  into  my  haversack  along  with  my  bread  and  butter. 
Our  captain,  in  his  musical,  pleasant  voice,  gave  us  instructions,  though  he  had 
never  studied  Vauban.  Gentlemen!  these  cartridges  are  peculiar ;  you  put  the 
ball  in  first,  and  the  powder  on  top  !  "  Some  one  whispered  in  his  ear.  "  Gentle 
men"  he  again  exclaimed,  with  a  significant  scowl  and  a  shake  of  the  head,  "I 
was  mistaken:  you  must  put  the  powder  in  first  and  the  ball  on  top."  We  did 
so.  We  had  elected  Billy  captain  lor  he  was  genial  and  of  a  good  family. 

We  again  shuffled  upward.  {Suddenly  as  the  drawing  up  of  a  curtain,  a  fine, 
open,  rolling  country  with  undulating  ravines  burst  upon  us.  Two  or  three  farm 
mansions,  with  halt-concealing  foliage  and  corn-fields  appeared  in  the  distance; 
beyond,  a  mile  away,  the  fringed  line  of  a  forest ;  above,  a  cloudless  sky  and  a 
noonday  sun.  The  road  we  were  on  penetrated  these  woods.  In  these  were  con 
cealed  the  unknown  thousands  of  our  war-hardened,  desperate  foe. 

On  the  summit  of  the  hills  we  had  so  laboriously  gained,  defending  the  ap 
proach  by  the  road,  ran  our  line  of  earthworks.  On  our  right  a  few  rods,  was 
Fort  Mitchell;  to  our  left,  for  hundreds  of  yards,  rifle-pits.  The  fort  and  pits 
were  filled  with  armed  citizens;  and  a  regiment  or  two  of  green  soldiers  in  their 
new  suits.  Vociferous  cheers  greeted  our  appearing.  ''How  are  you,  H.?" 
struck  my  attention.  It  was  the  cheerful  voice  of  a  tall,  slender  gentleman  in 
glasses  who  does  rny  legal  business. 

Turning  off  to  the  left  into  the  fields  in  front  of  these,  and  away  beyond,  we 
halted  an  hour  or  so  in  line  of  battle,  the  nearest  regiment  to  the  enemy.  We 
waited  in  expectation  of  an  attack,  too  exhausted  to  fight,  or,  perhaps,  even  to  run. 
Thence  we  moved  back  into  an  orchard,  behind  a  rail  fence,  on  rather  low  ground  ; 
our  left,  and  the  extreme  left  of  all  our  forces,  resting  on  a  farm-house.  Our  pio 
neers  went  to  work  strengthening  our  permanent  position,  cutting  down  brush  and 
small  trees,  and  piling  them  against  the  fence.  Here,  we  were  in  plain  view,  a 
mile  in  front,  of  the  ominous  forest.  When  night  came  on,  in  caution,  our  camp- 
fires  were  extinguished.  We  slept  on  hay  in  the  open  air,  with  our  loaded  mus 
kets  by  our  sides,  and  our  guards  and  pickets  doubled. 

At  4  o'clock  reveille  sounded,  and  we  were  up  in  line.  I  then  enjoyed  what  I 
had  not  before  seen  in  years — the  first  coming  on  of  morning  in  the  country. 
Most  of  the  day  we  were  in  line  of  battle,  behind  the  fence.  .Regiments  to  the 
right  of  u*  ;  arid  more  in  the  rifle-pits  farther  on,  and  beyond,  it  seemed  a  mile  to 
the  right,  the  artillerists  in  Fort  Mitchell — all  those  on  hills  above  us,  also  stood 
waiting  for  the  enemy.  Constant  picket-firing  was  going  on  in  front.  The  rebels 
were  feeling  our  lines.  Pop!  pop!  pop!  one — two — three,  then  half  a  dozen  in 
quick  succession:  followed  by  a  lull  with  intervals  of  three  or  four  minutes, 
broken  perhaps  by  a  solitary  pop.  Again  continuous  pops,  like  &feu-dejoie,  with 
another  lull :  and  so  on  through  the  long  hours.  Some  of  our  men  were  wounded, 
and  others,  it  was  reported,  killed.  With  the  naked  eye  we  caught  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  skirmishers,  in  a  corn-field  near  the  woods.  With  a  glass  a  man 
by  my  side  said  he  saw  the  butternut-colored  garments  of  the  foe. 

Toward  evening  a  furious  thunder  storm  drove  us  to  our  tents  of  blankets,  and 
brushwood  bowers.  It  wet  us  through,  and  destroyed  the  cartridges  in  our  cotton 
haversacks.  Just  as  the  storm  was  closing,  a  tremendous  fusilade  on  our  right, 
and  the  cries  of  our  officers,  "  the  enemy  are  upon  us;  turn  out!  turn  ouil1* 


208  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

brought  us  to  the  fence  again.  The  rebels,  we  thought,  had  surprised  us  and 
would  be  dashing  down  in  a  moment  with  their  cavalry  through  the  orchard  in 
our  rear.  Several  of  our  companies  fired  off  their  muskets  in  that  direction,  and 
to  the  manifest  danger  of  a  line  of  our  own  sentinels.  Ours  held  fast.  It  was  a 
false  alarm,  and  arose  in  the  110th  Ohio,  camped  on  the  hill  to  our  right. 

You  may  ask  what  my  sensations  as  I  thus  stood,  back  to  the  fence,  with  up 
lifted  musket  in  expectant  attitude?  To  be  honest — my  teeth  chattered  uncon 
trollably.  I  never  boasted  of  courage.  Drenched  to  the  marrow  by  the  cold  rain,  I 
was  shivering  before  the  alarm.  1  reasoned  in  this  way  :  "  Our  men  are  all  raw  ; 
our  officers  in  the  doughy  condition.  We  are  armed  with  the  old,  condemned 
Austrian  rifle.  Not  one  in  ten  can  be  discharged.  All  my  reading  in  history  has 
ground  the  fact  into  me,  that  militia,  situated  like  us,  are  worthless  when  attacked 
by  veterans.  An  hundred  experienced  cavalrymen,  dashing  down  with  drawn 
sabers,  revolvers  and  secesh  yells  will  scatter  us' in  a  twinkling.  When  the  others 
run, — and  1  know  they  will,  1  won't.  I'll  drop  beside  this  fence,  simulate  death, 
and  open  an  eye  to  the  culminating  circumstances."  1  was  not  aching  for  a  tight.' 
Ambitious  youths  going  in  on  their  muscles,  alas  ! — are  apt  to  come  out  on  their 
backs. 

Unlike  Norval,  I  could  not  say  : 

"  I  had  heard  of  battles  and  longed 
To  follow  to  the  field  some  warlike  chap." 

When  at  school,  I  never  fought  excepting  when  my  pugnacity  was  aroused  on 
seeing  large  boys  tyrannize  over  small  ones.  I  never  slew  anything  larger  than  a 
a  cat,  which  had  scratched  me;  and  at  this,  as  soon  as  done,  1  child  like,  as  child 
I  was,  repenting,  sat  down  and  cried.  1  am  soft-hearted  as  my  uncle  Toby  with 
the  fly — "Go,  poor  devil!  the  world  is  lar*;e  enough  for  both  you  and  I."  To  pit 
my  valuable  life  against  one  of  these  low  southern  whites;  half  animals,  fierce  as 
hyenas,  degraded  as  Serbs,  appeared  a  manifest  incongruity.  It  never  seemed  so 
plain  before.  It  was  tackling  the  beast  in  the  only  point  where  he  was  strong, 
and  in  one  where  1  was  weak. 

Some  things  were  revealed  to  me  by  this  soldier-life.  The  alarming  rumors 
current.  The  restraints  upon  one's  liberty ;  imprisoned  within  the  lines  of  the 
regiment.  The  sensation  of  being  ordered  around  by  small  men  in  high  places; 
and  despicable  in  any.  The  waste  of  war;  piles  of  bread,  water-soaked  by  rain 
into  worthless  pulp.  The  vacuity  of  mind  from  the  want  of  business  for  continu 
ous  thought.  The  picturesque  attitudes  of  scores  of  men  sleeping  on  heaps  of 
straw,  seen  by  the  uncertain  light  of  night.  The  importance  of  an  officer's  horse 
beyond  that  of  a  common  soldier,  shown  by  the  refusal  of  hay  on  which  to  sleep 
on  the  night  of  our  arrival,  because  the  colonel's  beast  wanted  it.  Didn't  our 
good  mother  earth  furnish  a  bed  ? 

In  our  company  were  three  of  us, — W.  J.  F.,  S.  D.,  and  H.  H. — not  relatives  in 
any  way,  who,  in  a  New  England  city,  distant  nearly  a  thousand  miles,  had,  over 
thirty  years  before  been  school-mates.  It  illustrated  a  peculiar  phase  of  Ameri 
can  habits.  We  had  some  odd  characters.  Among  us  Gentiles,  was  a 
large  shoal  of  Jews  caught  at  last  by  the  remorseless  net  of  universal  con 
scription.  Feeding  and  fattening  in  the  disturbed  currents  of  the  times,  all  their 
wriggling  to  escape  excited  no  sympathy.  Our  fifer,  a  short,  square-built,  warm- 
faced  man,  had  been  in  the  British  Army — had  seen  service  in  Afghanistan,  the 
other  side  of  the  globe.  Another,  a  German  lieutenant,  had  experience  of  war  in 
our  country — was  at  Shiloh.  He  was  imaginative.  1  talked  with  him  in  the  night. 
To  my  query  of  the  probability  of  a  night  attack,  he  replied,  "yes  !  the  secesh  al 
ways  attack  in  that  way."  Past  midnight,  as  he  was  going  the  rounds  of  the  pick 
ets  as  officer  of  the  guard,  he  saw  crouching  in  the  shadow  of  a  ravine  a  large 
body  of  rebels.  He  ran  to  headquarters  and  aroused  our  colonel  and  staff;  but 
when  they  arrived  at  the  seeing  point,  lo !  the  foe  had  vanished.  A  fat,  gray- 
headed  captain  with  protuberant  abdomen,  came  to  me  soon  after  our  arrival  and 
with  an  impressive  countenance  discoursed  of  the  perils  of  our  position.  In  this, 
I  quite  agreed  with  him.  Then  putting  his  hand  to  his  stomach  and  giving  his 
head  a  turn  to  one  side,  after  the  usual  manner  of  invalids  in  detailing  their  woes, 


IN  OHIO. 


209 


he  uttered  in  lugubrious  tones — "  T  am  very  sick  :  the  march  over  has  been  too 
much  for  me  :  1  feel  a  severe  attack  of  my  old  complaint,  choltr  amor  bus  coming 
on.''  After  this,  1  missed  him.  He  had  got  a  permit  from  the  surgeon  and  re 
turned  home  to  be  nursed.  Our  medical  man,  Dr.  D.,  was  old  Virginia  born;  and 
I  had,  notwithstanding  his  generous  qualities,  suspected  him  of  secesh  sympa 
thies.  I  wish  to  be  charitable,  but  I  must  say  this  confirmed  my  suspicion:  it  was 
evident  he  wished  to  get  the  lighting  men  out  of  the  way ! 

Saturday  noon,  the  13th,  we  began  our  return  march.  The  militia  were  no 
longer  needed;  for  the  rebels  had  fallen  back,  and  thousands  of  regular  soldiers 
had  been  pouring  into  the  city  and  spreading  over  the  hills.  Our  return  was  an 
ovation.  The  landing  was  black  with  men,  women  and  children.  We  re-crossed 
the  pontoon  amid  cheers  and  the  boom  of  cannon.  Here,  on  the  safe  side  of  the 
river,  the  sick  captain,  now  recovered,  joined  his  regiment.  With  freshlv-shaven 
face,  spotless  collar  and  bright  uniform  he  appeared,  like  a  bandbox  soldieV  among 
dust-covered  warriors.  Escaping  our  perils,  he  shared  our  glories  as,  with  drawn 
sword,  he  strutted  through  street  after  street  amid  cheers  of  the  multitude,  smiles 
of  admiring  women,  and  waving  of  'kerchiefs.  Weary  and  dirt-begrimmed,  we 
were,  in  a  tedious,  circuitous  march,  duly  shown  off  by  our  officers  to  all  their 
lady  acquaintances,  until  night  came  to  our  relief,  kindly  covered  us  with  her 
mantle,  and  stopped  the  torn-foolery.  The  lambs  led  forth  to  slaughter,  thus  re 
turned  safely  to  their  folds,  because  the  butchers  hadn't  come. 

MORGAN'S  RAID  INTO  OHIO. 

In  the  year  following,  1863,  Ohio  was  invaded  by  the  guerrilla  chief, 
John  Morgan.  He  crossed  from  Kentucky  into  Indiana  with  a  cavalry 
force  of  about  4000,  and  moved  nearly  parallel  with  the  Ohio  river. 
He  approached  within  a  few  miles  of  Cincinnati,  and  caused  some  lit 
tle  stir  there,  but  thought  it  not  prudent  to  visit  the  city.  He  was 
closely  pursued  by  the  federal  forces.  The  following  are  some  of  the 
particulars  of  his  march  and  capture. 

The  only  battle  worthy  of  the  name  took  place  near  Buffington 
Island,  where  the  raiders  made  an  attempt  to  cross  into  Virginia,  but 
were  prevented  by  the  gun-boats.  We  present  tbe  particulars  as  pub 
lished  at  the  time : 

Buffington  Island  lies  in  the  Ohio  river,  close  to  the  Ohio  shore,  about  thirty- 
five  miles  above  Pomeroy,  and  was  chosen  by  the  rebels  as  a  place  of  crossing  into 
Virginia,  on  account  of  the  shoals  between  it  and  Blannerhasset's  Island,  twenty 
miles  above. 

Our  gun-boats,  viz:  Moose  (flag-boat),  Reindeer,  Springfield,  Naumbeag  and 
Victory,  in  command  of  Lieutenant-Commander  Le  Roy  Fitch,  were  patrolling 
the  river  from  an  accessible  point  below  Ripley  to  Portsmouth ;  but  as  soon  as  it 
was  definitely  ascertained  that  Morgan  was  pushing  eastward,  the  Moose,  towed 
by  the  Imperial,  started  up  stream,  followed  at  proper  distances  by  the  other  boats. 
The  Moose  made  the  foot  of  Buffington  Island  on  Saturday  night,  and  remained 
until  next  morning,  without  changing  position,  on  account  of  a  dense  fog. 

The  rebel  force  made  the  shore  opposite,  and  above  the  island,  as  before  stated, 
at  two  o'clock,  and  took  position,  under  cover  of  artillery,  in  an  extensive  corn 
and  wheat  field,  skirted  by  hills  and  woods  on  its  north  and  east  sides.  The  po- 
sion  was  a  good  one,  and  might  have  been  held  to  advantage  for  a  much  longer 
time  than  it  was,  but  for  the  co-operation  of  the  gun-boat  Moose,  the  only  one  of 
the  fleet  which  arrived  in  time  to  participate. 

The  Fight. — The  rebels  had  their  artillery  placed  on  the  highest  elevation  on 
the  east  and  completely  commanded  the  Pomeroy  road,  over  which  Gen.  Judah's 
force  came  filing  along,  unaware  of  the  close  proximity  of  the  enemy.  It  should 
be  noted  here,  that  the  old  stage  road  to  Pomeroy,  over  which  Morgan  came,  and 
the  lower  road  traveled  by  Judah  met  in  an  acute  angle  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
14 


210  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

from  the  battle-field.  Our  column  caine  along  the  lower  road  within  range  at  six 
o'clock,  having  inarched  all  night,  having  started  from  Pomeroy,  and  was  not  as 
fresh  by  five  or  six  hours'  rest  as  the  enemy. 

The  rebels  met  us  in  solid  column,  and  moved  in  battalions,  and  at  the  first  fire 
repulsed  our  advance,  which  was  too  far  ahead  to  be  assisted  by  our  artillery. 
This  was  the  best  opportunity  they  had  to  make  a  successful  fight,  but  we  fell 
back  to  bring  forward  our  artillery,  and  the  enemy  did  not  seem  to  care  to  follow 
up  the  advantage.  During  this  encounter,  Capt.  Jno.  J.  Grafton,  of  Gen.  Judah's 
staff,  became  separated  from  the  advance  and  narrowly  escaped  capture,  by  shoot 
ing  the  rebel  cavalryman  who  seized  him.  He  was  dismounted,  and  being  left  on 
the  ground,  made  his  way  with  considerable  difficulty  to  the  river,  where  he  hailed 
the  Moose  and  got  aboard.  Meantime  the  tight  progressed,  but  in  a  desultory  man 
ner,  until  our  artillery  get  into  position,  and  our  lines  were  drawn  closely  around 
the  enemy.  A  furious  onset  was  made  on  our  side,  and  the  enemy  was  driven 
over  the  field  eastward,  and  sought  the  shelter  of  the  woods  beyond. 

Co-operation  of  the  Gun-boat. — No  more  fortunate  circumstance  could  have 
transpired  for  the  union  force  than  the  escape  of  Captain  Grafton  to  the  gun-boat 
Moose,  for  he  pointed  out  to  Lieutenant-Commander  Fitch  the  exact  position  of 
the  rebels,  and  enabled  that  officer  to  so  direct  his  guns  as  to  throw  shell  in  their 
very  midst.  The  Moose  is  armed  with  twenty-four  pounder  Dahlgren  guns — the 
most  accurate  and  effective  gun  in  the  service  for  operation  against  exposed  bodies 
of  men — and  on  this  occasion  the  weapon  did  not  belie  its  character.  A  dense 
fog,  however,  prevailed,  which  prevented  Lieut.  Fitch  doing  as  great  execution  in 
the  rebel  works  as  he  desired;  but  his  shots  from  the  larboard  and  forward  guns 
told,  and  an  extensive  scattering  took  place.  The  Moose  opened  at  seven  o'clock, 
and  as  the  rebels  were  driven  she  kept  steadily  moving  up  stream,  throwing  shell 
and  shrapnel  over  the  heads  of  our  lads  into  the  ranks  of  the  enemy. 

It  now  became  evident  that  the  rebels  were  being  pressed  in  all  directions,  and 
that  hard  fighting  would  not  save  them  from  destruction. 

A  simultaneous  rush  was  then  made  for  the  river,  and  throwing  away  arms  and 
even  clothing,  a  large  body  ran  down  to  the  shore,  some  with  horses  and  some 
without,  and  plunged  into  the  stream.  The  point  chosen  to  effect  the  crossing 
was  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  head  of  Buffington  Island,  and  the  movement 
would  undoubtedly  have  been  attended  with  considerable  success  but  for  the 
presence  and  performance  of  the  gun-boat  The  crossing  was  covered  by  a 
twenty-pounder  Parrott  and  a  twelve-pound  howitzer  dragged  into  position  by  the 
rebels  in  their  hasty  retreat,  but  before  the  guns  could  be  loaded  and  sighted  the 
bow  guns  of  the  Moose  opened  on  the  rebel  guns  and  drove  the  gunners  away, 
after  which  the  pieces  were  captured.  Some  twenty  or  thirty  men  only  succeeded 
in  crossing  into  Virginia  at  this  point.  Several  were  killed  in  the  water,  and 
many  returned  to  the  shore.  While  this  was  transpiring  on  the  river,  the  roar  of 
battle  was  still  raging  on  the  shore  and  back  into  the  country.  Basil  Duke,  under 
whose  generalship  the  fight  was  conducted,  was  evidently  getting  the  worst  of  it, 
and  his  wearied  gang  of  horse-tuieves,  cut-throats  and  nondescripts  began  to  be 
think  them  only  of  escape.  Man^r  threw  down  their  arms,  were  taken  prisoners 
and  sent  to  the  rear.  Others  sought  the  shelter  of  trees,  or  ran  wildly  from  on« 
point  to  another,  and  thus  exposed  themselves  far  more  to  the  deadly  chances  of 
the  field  than  if  they  had  displayed  courage  and  stood  up  to  the  fight. 

The  scene  of  the  battle  was  one  of  the  most  composite,  perhaps,  in  the  pano 
rama  of  the  war.  The  rebels  were  dressed  in  every  possible  manner  peculiar  to 
civilized  man,  but  generally  speaking  their  attire  was  very  good.  They  wore  in 
many  instances  large  slouch  hats  peculiar  to  the  slave  states,  and  had  their  panta 
loons  stuck  in  rheir  boots.  A  dirty,  gray-colored  coat  was  the  most  prevalent,  al 
though  white  "dusters"  were  to  be  seen. 

They  were  armed  with  carbines,  Enfield  rifles,  sabers  and  revolvers,  were  well- 
mounted  and  looked  in  good  health,  although  jaded  and  tired.  The  battle-tieM 
and  the  roads  surrounding  it,  were  strewn  with  a  thousand  articles  never  seen, 
perhaps,  on  a  battle-field  before.  One  is  accustomed  to  see  broken  swords,  rnus 
kets  and  bayonets,  haversacks,  cartridge-boxes,  belts,  pistols,  gun-carriages,  cais- 


IN  OHIO. 


211 


sons,  cannon,  wagons  upset,  wounded,  dead  and  dying  on  a  battle  field,  but  beside 
all  these  on  the  battle  field  of  Buffington  Island,  one  could  pick  up  almost  anv  ar 
ticle  in  the  dry  goods,  hardware,  house-furnishing,  or  ladies'  or  gentlemen's  fur 
nishing  line.  Hats,  boots,  gloves,  knives,  forks,  spoons,  calico,  ribbons,  drinking- 
cups,  buggies,  carriages,  market-wagons,  circus-wagons,  and  an  almost  endless  va 
riety  of  articles  useful,  and  more  or  less  valuable.  An  inventory  of  Morgan's 
plunder  would  tax  the  patience  of  an  auctioneer's  clerk,  and  1  question  if  one 
man's  life  would  be  long  enough  to  minutely  catalogue  the  articles  picked  up  dur 
ing  his  raid. 

The  carnage  of  the  field  was  not  remarkable,  although  little  groups  of  rebels 
were  found,  slain  by  the  deadly  fragments  of  shell. 

Nearly  1,700  prisoners  are  now  in  our  hands,  under  guard  of  the  8th  Michigan 
cavalry,  arid  others  are  constantly  arriving  by  our  scouts  and  pursuing  parties. 

Prisoners  admit  a  loss  of  200  killed  and  wounded  on  the  field,  while  our  loss 
will  not  exceed  a  fourth  of  that  number.  The  saddest  incident  of  the  fight  is  the 
mortally  wounding  of  Major  McCook,  father  of  the  lamented  Brigadier-General 
McCook,  murdered  in  the  summer  of  1862,  by  guerrillas,  in  Kentucky. 

Another  writer  gives  some  characteristic  incidents  of  this  raid, 
which  he  derived  from  Major  Kaney,  the  chief  of  the  party  of  scouts. 
Raney  was  the  well-known  Cincinnati  detective,  and,  therefore,  in  the 
direct  line  of  his  profession,  though  on  a  somewhat  expanded  field. 

At  Miamitown,  Raney's  scouts  first  came  in  direct  contact  with  Morgan's  men, 
forming  a  portion  of  his  advance  guard  then  heading  for  Cincinnati.  Raney  had 
but  23  men,  but  these  were  well  armed  and  posted  behind  trees  and  fences,  so  as 
to  command  the  road  for  some  distance,  without  being  exposed  themselves.  Aa 
soon  as  the  extreme  advance  came  in  sight,  23  rifle  balls  whistled  around  its  head, 
and  stretched  2  men  dead,  and  wounded  3.  These  were  abandoned;  but  the  return 
volley  killed  one  of  Raney's  most  valuable  men,  a  member  of  Collins'  battalion,  1 1th 
Ohio,  recruited  for  Indian  service.  While  the  skirmish  was  going  on,  a  portion 
of  rhe  rebel  force  was  engaged  in  pillaging  the  neighborhood,  where  they  got  sev 
eral  hundred  dollars  in  small  sums,  and  a  quantity  of  jewelry  and  silver  spoons. 
It  was  not  the  object  nor  the  business  of  Raney  to  fight  the  rebels,  although  his 
ambush  certainly  turned  them  from  Cincinnati,  and  as  soon  as  the  advance 
headed  off,  which  it  did  when  fired  upon,  the  scouts  mounted  and  rode  forward  to 
pick  up  stragglers.  Three  prisoners  were  taken,  among  them  Lieutenant  Kirby 
of  the  10th  Kentucky,  (rebel.)  This  chivalrous  (?)  officer,  when  taken,  swag 
gered  in  true  Kentucky  blackguard  style  and  rMinsr  up  to  Major  Llaney,  demanded 
to  be  treated  as  a  prisoner  of  war,  for  he  was  an  officer  and  a  gentleman,  and  from 
Kentucky,  and  was,  therefore,  entitled  to  respect,  etc.,  etc.  Raney  replied  that  he 
always  treated  a  man  as  a  gentleman  until  he  found  him  to  be  otherwise,  and  al 
ways  treated  a  man  as  honest  until  he  found  him  to  be  a  thief;  and  by  way  of 
illustrating  his  principle,  he  thrust  his  hand  into  Kirby's  shirtbosom,  and  drew 
out  half  a  dozen  pairs  of  ladies'  kid  gloves,  some  ribbon,  ladies'  silk  hose,  and 
some  other  articles  of  finery  stolen  from  a  store  or  the  wardrobe  of  a  lady  of 
means. 

The  next  object  of  interest  encountered  by  the  scouts  was  an  old,  feeble  man, 
evidently  a  discharged  soldier,  leaning  on  the  arm  of  a  sturdy,  sunburned  country 
man,  who,  to  all  appearances,  had  humanely  offered  assistance  to  the  returned 
veteran.  This  sham  would  have  succeeded  had  not  the  sunburned  countryman 
looked  a  trifle  too  sharp  out  of  the  corners  of  his  eyes  as  he  passed.  Raney 
thought  he  spied  the  twinkle  of  a  rogue's  eye,  and  he  ordered  the  fellow  to  be 
taken  in  custody,  when,  upon  examination,  he  proved  to  be  Ike  Snow,  one  of  Mor 
gan's  most  valuable  and  efficient  scouts. 

At  Harrison,  the  rebels  were  about  to  set  fire  to  three  mills  and  a  distillery,  but 
upon  entreaty  decided  to  spare  them  upon  the  payment  of  $1,000  for  each  build 
ing,  which  was  immediately  handed  over  and  pocketed  by  the  ubiquitous  John. 

At  Sharon,  the  main  body,  with  which  Morgan  was  riding,  stopped  and  hon 
ored  a  butternut  tavern-keeper  by  |T "?  ~.uai?  of  Myers  with  a  visit.  Morgan  or- 


212  TIMES  OF  THE   REBELLION 

dered  dinner  for  himself  and  staff,  but  Myers  demurred,  on  the  ground  that  he 
could  not  make  a  fire  and  cook  food  for  so  many  in  a  short  time.  Morgan  replied 
that  he  could soon  make  a  tire,  and  lie  would  see  that  the  cooks  were  expe 
ditious.  At  this  suggestive  intimation  the  host  set  about  dinner  with  a  will,  and 
by  way  of  showing  his  devotion  to  his  guests,  descended  to  the  cellar  and  brought 
forth  a  bottle  of  old  Otard,  and  pouring  out  a  liberal  "smile/  asked  Morgan  to 
"  take  a  little  trink  of  pranty  py  way  of  pitters  pefore  tinner."  Morgan,  riot  ac 
customed  to  be  gotten  ahead  of,  said,  tlYes,  sir,  but  after  you."  Myers  swallowed 
half  the  liquor,  when  Morgan  also  "smiled."  Myers  continued  to  make  himself 
agreeable  to  his  guests,  and  furnished  them  with  all  the  information  they  required, 
together  with  a  fine  horse,  and  upon  their  departure  received  two  hundred  dol 
lars  in  "greenbacks,"  as  a  cataplasm  for  his  wounded  honor  and  patriotism,  for, 
be  it  known,  that  no  one  so  heartily  abused  Morgan — after  he  was  gone — as 
Myers. 

The  most  wanton  murder,  perhaps,  perpetrated  by  Morgan,  was  that  of  McDou 
gal,  at  Piketon.  He  with  two  or  three  others,  were  taken  prisoners,  and  as  he. 
was  the  best  informed  of  the  party,  Morgan  ordered  him  to  act  as  scout,  or  pilot, 
for  a  body  of  the  rebels.  McDougal  refused  and  expostulated  with  the  ruffians, 
but  they  refused  to  parley,  and  pushed  him  toward  a  fence  where  they  almost 
riddled  his  body  with  bullets. 

The  arrival  at  Cincinnati  of  the  prisoners  taken  in  the  Buffington 
fight  is  thus  given  in  one  of  the  papers  of  the  day. 

At  11  A.  M.,  July  23d,  the  rebel  officers,  including  Dick  Morgan  and  Basil  Duke, 
were  brought  from  the  steamer  Starlight  to  the  foot  of  Main-street,  on  one  of  the 
ferry-boats.  Morgan  being  wounded,  and  Duke  lame,  temporarily,  we  believe, 
they  were  provided  with  a  carriage,  while  the  balance  of  the  officers  formed  in 
their  rear  in  two  ranks,  when  the  column,  strongly  guarded,  moved  through  the 
city  to  the  city  prison,  on  Ninth-street.  The  boats  containing  the  privates  then 
proceeded  down  the  river  to  the  foot  of  Fifth-street,  where  the  prisoners  were 
marched  to  a  special  train  on  the  Indianapolis  and  Cincinnati  railroad,  and  sent  to 
Indianapolis. 

As  soon  as  it  was  known  the  boats  containing  the  prisoners  had  arrived,  the  le 
vee  was  thronged  with  men,  women  and  children,  anxious  to  see  the  noted  horse- 
thieves.  Many  sympathizers  were  present,  and  in  several  cases  undertook  to  fur 
nish  their  friends  with  money,  refreshments,  etc.  This  proceeding,  however,  was 
«oon  stopped  by  their  arrest.  A  number  of  the  prisoners  being  from  Covington, 
their  female  relations  and  friends  came  over  in  carriages  to  see  them.  They  were 
not  permitted  to  communicate  with  the  prisoners,  however. 

A  pass  from  General  Burnside  admitted  us  to  the  temporary  enjoyment  of  the 
society  of  the  rebel  officers.  Although  the  prison  itself  is  not  a  very  stronghold, 
we  found  the  guard  sufficient  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  captives,  for  a  few  days 
at  least.  The  walls  were  whitewashed,  and  they  seemed  to  have  been  cleaned  for 
the  occasion.  From  the  accounts  we  have  read'of  Libby  prison,  we  should  judge 
the  city  prison,  in  which  we  entertain  rebel  officers,  heavenly,  compared  to  it. 
None  of  them  have  been  heard  to  complain  about  it;  but  some  of  them  were  pre 
sumptuous  enough  to  think  we  ought  to  furnish  them  with  a  keg  of  lager  beer 
once  a  day,  and  other  refreshments  in  addition. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  officers : 

Colonels.— B.  W.  Duke,  W.  W.  Ward,  D.  N.  Smith,  B.  0.  Morgan;  Lieut.- Col.  J.  W. 
Hoffman. 

M,,jon.—W.  P.  Elliott,  R.  S.  Bullock. 

Cnptain*. — P.  Thorpe,  G.  M.  Coleman,  T.  E.  Eastin,  T.  H.  Hines,  W.  B.  Cunningham, 
Miles  Griffin,  H.  C.  Ellis,  J.  B.  Barker,  C.  G.  Campbell,  E.  W.  Terrell,  Jno.  Hunter,  S.  C. 
Mullens,  E.  T.  Rochester,  A.  J.  Bruner,  J.  L.  N.  Pickens,  J.  W.  Mitchell,  B.  A.  Tracey. 

Surgeons. Twigg,  M.   W.   Standford,  T.  B.   Lewis,  D.   Carter,  A.  M.  Conn,  D.  C. 

Bedford,  A.  C.  Raines,  Rev.  T.  D.  Moore. 

Lieutenant*. Litzy,  J.  W.  McMichael,  J.  H.  Green,  Ph.  Price,  A.  A.  Q.  M..  W.  P. 

Fogg,  J.  T.  Sinclair,  J.  B.  Talbott,  J.  P.  Webb,R.  W.  Fenwick,  Robert  Cunningham,  K. 
F.  Peddicore,  M.  M.    Thomason,  Tom.  Moulard,  F.   Leathers,  D.  Care,  T.  B.  Bridges,  H. 


IN  OHIO. 


213 


T.  Rucks,  J.  L.  Williamson,  T.  B.  Haines, Newton, Wellington,  Thos.  Palls,  J. 

D.  Morris,  W.  B.  Ford,  Jno.  Parks,  B.  L.  Drake,  J.  A.  Middleton,  A.  B.  Chinn,  J.  Old- 
ham,  J.  W.  Gordon,  C.  M.  Taylor,  J.  A.  Fox,  D.  Tribble,  W.  S.  Hickman,  J.  S.  Hughes, 
Alfred  Surber,  T.  S.  Kemper,  R.  A.  Webster, Munday. 

We  found  Colonel  Duke's  name  headed  the  list,  but  from  his  appearance  we 
should  not  have  taken  him  to  be  the  head  and  front  of  the  gang — a  position  that 
is  now  generally  conceded  to  him  more  than  to  Morgan.  He  is  a  small  man,  not 
over  thirty  years  old,  we  judge;  weight  about  130  pounds,  spare  of  flesh,  features 
angular,  hair  and  eyes  nearly,  if  not  quite,  black,  the  latter  sparkling  and  pene 
trating,  and  the  former  standing  out  from  the  head  something  like  porcupine  quills. 
Altogether,  he  called  to  mind  our  picture  of  a  Spanish  bandit  on  a  small  scale ; 
nevertheless,  he  has  a  pleasant  voice,  and  a  gracious  smile  in  his  conversation, 
which  is  free  and  cordial.  But  there  is  nothing  commanding  in  his  appearance, 
his  manners,  or  his  words,  and  it  is  not  strange  that  Morgan  is  the  acknowledged 
leader  of  the  horde,  even  though  Duke  may  be  the  most  quick-witted. 

Dick  Morgan  is  about  32  years  old,  heavy  set,  inclined  to  be  fleshy,  round, 
plump  face,  bluish  eyes,  phlegmatic  temperament,  and  not  talkative.  He  yields 
to  Duke  the  privilege  of  carrying  on  a  conversation. 

Not  one  of  the  seventy  officers  before  us  had  any  indication  of  his  rank  in  or 
on  his  dress.  They  were  all,  more  or  less,  in  citizen's  dress;  some  of  them  hav 
ing  blue,  and  some  of  them  gray  pantaloons;  some  of  them  had  military  blouses, 
but  the  most  of  them  had  on  citizen's  vests  and  coats.  What  there  was  of  mili 
tary  dress  among  them,  was  more  of  the  federal  style  than  the  confederate.  We 
asked  why  they  dressed  in  this  style — whether  it  was  for  convenience  in  passing 
themselves  off  as  citizens,  when  they  found  it  more  convenient  to  be  civilians  than 
soldiers?  They  replied,  that  they  kept  flying  round  so,  that  they  never  saw  the 
quartermaster's  supplies,  and  that  they  found  it  handier  just  to  take  what  they 
could  find — whether  it  was  from  citizens  or  from  union  soldiers. 

They  stated  that  most  of  Morgan's  forces  were  Kentuckians,  but  that  Colonel 
Ward's  men  were  Tennesseans,  and  Colonel  Hoffman's  were  Texans.  And  we 
learn  that  the  privates,  on  the  boats,  improved  the  opportunity  of  inquiring  of  the 
few  visitors  who  reached  them,  all  about  their  friends  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river.  One  Covingtonian  got  among  them,  to  look  for  his  son,  but  not  finding 
him,  distributed  seventy-five  dollars  he  had  brought  with  him,  among  the  rebel 
boys,  who  had  been  stealing  money  and  horses  on  this  side  the  river. 

John  Morgan  with  the  remainder  of  his  followers  succeeded  in  elud 
ing  his  pursuers  for  nearly  an  hundred  miles  more  of  flight.  They 
were  captured  several  days  after  the  Buffington  fight,  in  Columbiana 
county,  near  the  Pennsylvania  border.  These  were  the  closing  scenes 
of  the  great  chase  through  Indiana  and  Ohio. 

General  Brooks,  commanding  the  department,  had  gone  to  Wellsville  and  estab 
lished  his  headquarters  in  the  Cleveland  and  Pittsburg  depot,  where  he  was  as 
sisted  by  the  managing  officers  of  the  road ;  who  had  placed  the  transportation 
and  telegraphic  resources  of  the  road  at  his  disposal.  Finding  that  there  was  a  pro 
bability  that  Morgan  would  cross  the  road  in  the  vicinity  of  Salineville,  a  train 
of  cars  was  sent  up  the  road  about  six  o  clock,  Sunday  morning,  July  23d,  with  a 
regiment  of  six  months'  Pennsylvania  infantry,  under  command  of  Colonel  Gal 
lagher.  These  were  embarked  at  Salineville,  and  marched  to  a  point  about  two 
miles  distant,  where  the  rebels  were  expected  to  cross.  The  infantry  were  posted 
on  some  rising  ground  commanding  the  road,  with  orders  to  prevent  Morgan's 
passage. 

At  this  time,  the  utmost  alarm  existed  among  the  people  of  Salineville.  The 
houses  were  closed,  doors  and  windows  locked  and  barred,  and  women  and  children 
stampeded  into  the  country,  with  whatever  portable  property  could  be  carried 
along.  The  man  who  had  weapons  and  courage  turned  out  to  resist  the  progress 
of  the  dreaded  rebel,  while  all  the  others  fled  with  the  women  and  children. 

In  a  short  time  the  expected  rebels  made  their  appearance,  coming  around  a 
bend  in  the  road:  On  coming  in  sight  of  the  infantry  they  halted,  and  turned 


214  TIMES  OP  THE  REBELLION 

their  horses'  head-*  in  another  direction.  Before  they  could  get  out  of  the  trap 
they  found  themselves  in,  Major  Way,  with  250  men  of  the  9th  Michigan  cavalry, 
dashed  among  them  and  commenced  cutting  right  and  left.  The  rebels  made  hut 
a  brief  resistance.  A  few  shots  were  fired  by  them,  and  then  the  whole  party 
broke  in  utter  confusion.  The  scene  that  followed  was  ludicrous,  and  could  only 
be  matched  by  the  previous  stampede  at  Buffington  Island.  Men  dismounted, 
threw  down  their  arms  and  begged  for  quarter,  while  others  galloped  wildly  in 
search  of  a  place  of  escape,  and  were  "brought  to  time"  by  a  pistol  -shot  or  a 
saber  stroke. 

Morgan  himself  was  riding  in  a  carriage  drawn  by  two  white  horses.  Major 
Way  saw  him,  and,  galloping  up,  reached  for  him.  Morgan  jumped  out  at  the 
other  side  of  the  carriage,  leaped  over  a  fence,  seized  a  horse,  and  galloped  off'  as 
fast  as  horseflesh,  spurred  by  frightened  heels,  could  carry  him.  About  a  couple 
of  hundred  of  his  men  succeeded  in  breaking  away  and  followed  their  fugitive 
leader.  In  the  buggy  thus  hastily  "evacuated"  by  Morgan,  were  found  his  "ra 
tions,"  consisting  of  a  loaf  of  bread,  some  hard  boiled  eggs,  and  a  bottle  of 
whisky. 

The  number  of  killed  in  this  fight  was  much  less  than  at  first  reported,  as  we 
can  not  learn  of  more  than  five  or  .six  dead  bodies  having  been  found.  There  was 
a  considerable  number  of  wounded,  and  about  200  prisoners  taken,  together  with 
horses  and  arms.  A  special  train  was  sent  to  Wellsville  in  the  afternoon  with 
about  250  prisoners,  captured  in  the  fight  or  picked  up  in  the  neighborhood  after 
ward. 

A  few  of  our  cavalry  were  wounded,  two  or  three  seriously.  Lieutenant  Fiske 
was  shot  through  the  breast.  His  wound  is  dangerous,  and  he  has  telegraphed 
for  his  wife  to  come  from  Michigan. 

Morgan  and  the  remainder  of  his  scattered  forces  pressed  three  citizens  of  Sa- 
lineville  into  their  service  as  guides,  and  continued  their  flight  on  the  New  Lisbon 
road.  One  of  the  impressed  guides  made  his  escape  and  rode  back,  conveying 
intelligence  of  the  route  taken,  which,  it  was  believed,  was  with  the  ultimate  de 
sign  of  reaching  the  Ohio  river  higher  up.  Forces  were  immediately  dispatched 
from  Wellsville  to  head  him  off,  while  another  force  followed  hotly  in  his  rear, 
and  a  strong  militia  force  from  New  Lisbon  came  down  to  meet  him. 

About  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  these  various  detachments  closed  in  around 
Morgan,  in  the  vicinity  of  West  Point,  about  midway  between  New  Lisbon  and 
Wellsville  The  rebels  were  driven  to  a  bluff,  from  which  there  was  no  escape, 
except  by  fighting  their  way  through,  or  leaping  from  a  lofty  and  almost  perpen 
dicular  precipice.  Finding  themselves  thus  cooped,  Morgan  concluded  that  "  dis 
cretion  was  the  better  part  of  valor."  He,  with  the  remainder  of  the  gang,  sur 
rendered  to  Colonel  Shackleford,  who  was  well-acquainted  with  the  redoubtable 
'"  John,"  and  is  said  to  be  a  distant  relative. 

The  prisoners  were  brought  back  to  Wellsville,  where  their  arrival  caused  great 
excitement.  Morgan  retained  his  side  arms,  and  moved  about  freely,  although  al 
ways  accompanied  by  Colonel  Shackleford.  Last  night  (Sunday)  Morgan  and  his 
staff  slept  at  the  Whittaker  house,  in  Wellsville,  and  at  three  o'clock  this  morn 
ing,  they,  accompanied  by  Colonel  Shackleford  and  his  staff,  left  on  the  regular 
train  for  Columbus.  Later  in  the  morning,  a  special  train  was  to  be  sent  to  Co 
lumbus  with  the  remainder  of  the  prisoners  and  their  guards. 

The  militia  are  constantly  bringing  in  to  the  line  of  road  stray  prisoners, 
picked  up  in  the  country.  The  hills  are  swarming  with  armed  men,  hunting  for 
fugitive  rebels.  Nine  of  Morgan's  party  were  brought  to  Bayard  Station  this 
morning,  who  were  captured  in  the  neighborhood  by  the  provost  marshal's  force. 
They  were  taken  to  Alliance,  to  be  sent  from  that  place  to  Columbus. 

Morgan's  men  were  poorly  dressed,  ragged,  dirty,  and  very  badly  used  up.  Some 
of  them  wore  remnants  of  gray  uniforms,  but  most  of  them  were  attired  in  spoils 
gathered  during  their  raid.  They  were  much  discouraged  at  the  result  of  their 
raid,  and  the  prospect  of  affairs  generally. 

Morgan  himself  appeared  in  good  spirits,  and  quite  unconcerned  at  his  ill  luck. 
He  is  a  well-built  man,  of  fresh  complexion  and  sandy  hair  and  beard.  He,  last 
night,  enjoyed  for  the  first  time  in  a  long  while,  the  comforts  of  a  sound  sleep  in 


IN  OHIO. 


215 


a  good  bed,  which  was  some  compensation  for  his  otherwise  bad  luck.  Morgan 
was  attired  in  a  linen  coat,  black  pants,  white  shirt  and  light  felt  hat.  No  deco 
rations  were  visible.  He  has  rather  a  mild  face,  there  being  certainly  nothing  in 
it  to  indicate  the  possession  of  unusual  intellectual  qualities. 

Colonel  Cluke  is  very  tall,  rising  probably  two  inches  over  six  feet.  He  was 
attired  much  after  the  manner  of  his  chief.  He  is  slender,  has  sandy  hair,  and 
looks  like  a  man  of  invincible  determination.  His  countenance  is  not  devoid  of 
certain  savage  lines,  which  correspond  well  with  his  barbarities  as  a  leader. 

On  their  arrival  at  Cincinnati  a  few  days  later,  a  large  crowd  was  assembled  at 
the  depot,  and  as  the  prisoners  moved,  immense  numbers  were  constantly  added 
to  it.  When  they  marched  down  Ninth-street  not  less  than  5,000  persons  sur 
rounded  the  famous  guerrilla  and  his  aids.  Many  of  these  lookers-on  seemed  ex 
cited,  and  cried,  u  Hang  the  cut-throats,"  "  bully  for  the  horse-thieves."  Several 
of  the  spectators  were  flourishing  pistols,  but  the  guard  quickly  drove  them  away. 

The  capture  of  Morgan  occasioned  great  rejoicing;  and  Prentice,  of 
the  Louisville  Journal,  suggested  that  a  salute  of  one  gun  be  fired  be 
fore  every  stable  door  in  the  land. 

Morgan  and  a  number  of  his  officers  were  confined  in  the  state 
prison,  at  Columbus,  from  which  the  great  raider,  with  several  com 
panions  made  his  escape,  on  the  night  of  the  27th  of  November.  The 
following  particulars  of  the  flight  were  detailed  in  a  Richmond  paper. 

It  had  been  previously  determined  that,  on  reaching  the  outer  walls,  the  parties 
should  separate,  Morgan  and  Hines  together,  and  the  others  to  sh  ipe  their  course 
for  themselves.  Thus  they  parted.  Hines  and  the  general  proceeded  at  once  to 
the  depot  to  purchase  their  tickets  for  Cincinnati.  13ut,  lo  !  where  was  the  money  ? 
The  inventive  Hines  had  only  to  touch  the  magical  wand  of  his  ingenuity  to  be 
supplied.  While  in  prison  he  had  taken  the  precaution,  after  planning  his  escape, 
to  write  to  a  lady  friend  in  a  peculiar  cypher,  which,  when  handed  to  the  author 
ities  to  read  through  openly,  contained  nothing  contraband,  but  which,  on  the 
young  lady  receiving,  she,  according  to  instructions,  sent  him  some  books,  in  the 
back  of  one  of  which  she  concealed  some  *'  greenbacks,"  and  across  the  inside 
wrote  her  name  to  indicate  the  place  where  the  money  was  deposited!  The  books 
came  safe  to  hand,  and  Hines  was  flush  !  Going  boldly  up  to  the  ticket  office, 
while  Morgan  modestly  stood  back  and  adjusted  a  pair  of  green  goggles  over  his 
eyes,  which  one  of  the  men,  having  weak  eyes,  had  worn  in  the  prison. 

They  took  their  seats  in  the  cars  without  suspicion.  How  their  hearts  beat 
until  the  locomotive  whistled  to  start!  Slowly  the  wheels  turn,  and  they  are  off! 
The  cars  were  due  in  Cincinnati  at  7  o'clock,  A.  M.  At  Xenia,  they  were  detained 
one  hour.  What  keen  anguish  of  suspense  did  they  not  suffer?  They  knew  at 
5  o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  convicts  would  be  called,  and  that  their  escape  would  then  be 
discovered,  when  it  would  be  telegraphed  in  every  direction  ;  consequently,  the 
guards  would  be  ready  to  greet  them  on  their  arrival.  They  were  rapidly  near- 
ing  the  city  of  abolition  hogdora.  it  was  a  cool,  rainy  morning.  Just  as  the  train 
entered  the  suburbs,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  depot,  the  two  escaped  prisoners 
went  out  on  the  platform  and  put  on  the  brakes,  checking  the  cars  sufficiently  to 
let  them  jump  off.  Hines  jumped  off  first,  and  fell,  considerably  stunned.  Mor 
gan  followed,  unhurt.  They  immediately  made  for  the  river.  Here  they  found 
a  boy  with  a  skiff,  who  had  just  ferried  across  some  ladies  from  the  Kentucky  side. 
They  dared  not  turn  their  heads  for  fear  of  seeing  the  guards  coming.  "  Hines," 
whispered  the  general,  "look  and  see  if  any  body  is  coming!  "  The  boy  was  told 
they  wanted  to  cross,  but  he  desired  to  wait  for  more  passengers.  The  general 
told  him  he  was  in  a  hurry,  and  promised  to  pay  double  fare.  The  skiff  shot  out 
into  the  stream — they  soon  reached  the  Kentucky  shore,  and  breathed — free  ! 

THE    VALLANDIGHAM    CAMPAIGN. 

From  the  outbreak  of  the  rebellion  the  opposition  of  the  Hon.  Clem 
ent  L.  Vallandigham,  M.  C.  from  the  Dayton  district,  to  the  govern- 


216  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

ment  was  so  marked  as  to  be  generally  considered  as  amounting  to  ac 
tual  sympathy  with  the  south. 

On  the  19th  of  April,  1863,  Gen.  Burnside,  commanding  department 
of  the  Ohio,  issued  his  famous  order  No.  38,  in  which  he  said,  "  The 
habit  of  declaring  sympathies  for  the  enemy  will  no  longer  be  toler 
ated  in  this  department.  Persons  committing  such  offenses  will  be  at 
once  arrested  with  a  view  to  being  tried  as  above  stated,  or  sent  be 
yond  our  lines,  into  the  lines  of  their  friends." 

Mr.  Vallandigham,  in  a  speech  at  Mount  Yernon,  Knox  county,  on 
the  1st  of  May,  commented  with  great  bitterness  on  the  above  order, 
which  resulted  in  his  arrest  at  his  residence  in  Dayton  on  the  morn 
ing  of  the  5th  of  the  same  month.  He  was  taken  to  Cincinnati,  tried 
by  a  military  commission,  found  guilty,  and  sentenced  to  imprison 
ment  in  Fort  Warren  during  the  war.  This  sentence  was  changed  by 
the  president,  into  banishment  beyond  the  federal  lines,  which  was 
carried  into  effect. 

Much  sympathy  was  expressed  for  Vallandigham  by  his  friends  and 
the  opposition  press;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  there  was  a  general  ap 
proval  of  the  course  pursued  by  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  nation. 
Prominent  among  the  former  was  Governor  Seymour,  of  New  York, 
and  the  Freeman's  Journal  said,  "Ohio  has  her  exiled  hero,  Vallandig 
ham." 

The  sudden  rise  of  the  opposition  party  to  the  war  following  the 
unfortunate  issue  of  McClellan's  campaign  in  Virginia,  and  Buell's  in 
Kentucky,  in  the  latter  part  of  1862,  together  with  the  issuing  of  Pres 
ident  Lincoln's  proclamation,  in  January,  1863,  had  emboldened  Mr. 
Vallandigham  to  urge  his  peculiar  views.  This  had  greatly  excited 
the  soldiers  in  the  field,  and  in  their  numerous  addresses  and  letters 
they  appealed  to  the  people  at  home  to  stand  by  the  union.  General 
Rosecrans,  whose  signal  victory  at  Stone  River,  and  whose  generosity 
of  spirit  and  fatherly  care  of  his  men  had  endeared  him  to  the  people 
of  Ohio,  wrote  an  eloquent,  patriotic  letter  to  the  legislature,  and  his 
Ohio  soldiers  an  address  to  their  friends  at  home:  the  latter  we  have 
preserved  as  a  part  of  the  history  of  the  times. 

THE  BATTLE-FIELD  OF  STONE  RIVER     Vb.  1,  1863. 

To  the  People  of  Ohio :  The  Ohio  soldiers  of  the  western  army,  your  friends, 
brothers  and  sons,  address  you  from  this  field  of  renown,  in  urgent  entreaty,  npon 
matters  of  such  grave  import  to  them  and  to  the  country,  as  to  demand  your  calm 
and  patient  audience.  Exiles  from  home  for  long  weary  months,  away  from  the 
petty  strife  of  local  politics  and  the  influence  of  selfish  demagogues  and  party 
leaders,  with  the  pure  and  steadfast  faith  in  the  holy  cause  of  defending  our  gov 
ernment  which  brought  us  into  the  field,  and  has  sustained  us  in  perils,  hardships, 
toils  and  exposures,  which  have  scarcely  a  parallel  in  history,  we  feel  none  of  the 
acrimonious  bitterness  that  now  enters  into  the  ignoble  contentions  of  home  poli 
tics,  and  calmly  view  th.e  conditions  of  the  country  from  the  only  true  standpoint, 
the  soldier's  and  patriot's  devotion  to  the  great  republic — once  blessed  of  all  na 
tions. 

We  ask,  what  means  this  wild,  shameless  party  strife  at  home  ?  why  any  oppo 
sition  to  this  war  of  self-preservation?  why  any  but  political  demagogues  should 
wish  a  severance  of  the  republic?  wherefore  a  foolish  cry  for  a  cessation  of  hos 
tilities  on  our  part,  to  give  time  to  the  traitor-rebels  to  strengthen  their  defenses 
and  discipline  their  armies  ?  why  should  the  brave,  true  men  of  the  great  army  o 
the  United  States,  war-broken,  toil-worn  and  battle-stained,  be  left  without  sym- 


IN  OHIO.  217 

pathy  from  you,  men  of  Ohio,  now  enjoying  the  blessings  of  peace,  careless  of 
dangers  of  invasion,  war's  dread  terrors,  only  because  we,  your  brothers  and 
sons,  stand  "  between  your  loved  homes  and  war's  desolation  ? 

Are  we  not  in  war  ?  Is  not  the  whole  force  of  the  government  employed  in  de 
fending  the  nation  against  a  gigantic  effort  to  destroy  it  ?  Has  not  blood  flowed 
like  water,  and  treasure  expended  enough  to  make  rich  a  nation  ?  Is  it  not  worth 
preserving  ?  Can  two  or  more  states  be  carved  out  peacefully  from  the  present 
loved  republic  ?  Can  we  give  away  its  rivers,  lands  and  loyal  people  to  its  destroy 
ers  ?  Can  we  afford  to  divide  the  republic  into  contending  petty  states,  and  be 
forever  the  victims  of  internecine  wars  between  small  principalities?  Can  we 
quietly,  calmly,  even  complacently,  sit  by  and  see  the  grand  republic  of  the  world 
thus  cut  off  and  destroyed  by  innate  weakness  ?  No  honest  citizen  of  Ohio  is 
willing  that  such  should  be  our  fate. 

What  matters  now  the  cause  of  the  war?  By  whose  fault,  or  by  the  adoption 
of  what  mistaken  policy  ?  It  exists  !  It  must  be  fought  out,  or  ended  by  giving 
up  all  that  it  is  waged  for.  For  the  sake  of  peace ;  for  fear  of  the  shedding  of 
blood  ;  would  any  basely  give  up  his  nation  and  become  the  citizen  of  a  ruined 
and  dishonored  land  ? 

Then  wherefore  this  opposition  to  the  war  ?  Because  a  particular  party  is  in 
power?  Because  its  policy  is  obnoxious?  Because  it  has  committed  errors? 
Because  it  has  thrown  to  its  surface  and  given  prominence  to  bad  or  incompetent 
men,  or  adopted  political  theories  and  sought  to  make  them  practical,  which  are 
condemned  by  many  good  men?  No  !  the  remedy  for  all  these  evils,  if  they  exist 
at  all,  may  be  sought  in  the  quiet  but  powerful  means  of  the  ballot,  which  has 
power  in  our  government  to  change  dynasties,  where  the  armies  of  the  world 
would  fail. 

Is  it  thought  that  peace  and  a  voluntary  restoration  of  the  union  may  be  effected 
by  compromise  ?  All  that  has  been  tried.  Disdainfully,  the  rebels  flung  back  in  our 
faces  every  proffered  olive-branch,  before  peaceful  men  became  armed  soldiers 
and  the  booming  of  Fort  Sumter's  cannon,  with  its  terrible  alarm,  called  a  nation 
to  arms.  And  now,  insolent  and  defiant,  they  laugh  to  scorn  all  thoughts  of  peace 
on  any  other  terms  than  recognition  of  their  false  nationality.  They  are  stronger 
now  than  then.  The  despots  and  money-changers  of  Europe  have  given  them 
substantial  aid  to  destroy  a"republic ;  they  have  more  powerful  armies,  abler  gen 
erals  and  a  firmer  determination  than  when  the  rebellion  began.  They  know 
their  strength  and  appeal  to  it — not  to  the  poor  demagogues  of  the  north,  who  are 
their  allies.  They  condemn  and  despise  them.  Read  their  proclamations,  ad 
dresses,  army  orders  and  newspapers.  At  no  time  have  they  ever  spoken  of  north 
ern  friends,  except  as  allies  in  the  war !  They  deride  the  foolish  appeals  of  their 
northern  allies  for  peace  and  compromise,  and  preclude  all  hope  of  the  restoration 
of  the  union  on  any  terms. 

What  incalculable  mischief  is  being  done  by  these  northern  allies — their 
speeches  and  newspapers  are  quoted,  and  results  of  elections  reported  in  southern 
papers,  as  evidence,  not  of  any  hope  of  restoring  the  union,  but  to  show  that  the 
loyal  people  of  the  north  are  becoming  willing  to  submit  to  any  dishonorable  and 
humiliating  terms  of  peace,  based  even  on  a  full  recognition  that  this  fiendish  re 
bellion  was  right,  and  that  it  was  well  to  destroy  this  government. 

People  of  Ohio  !  But  one  alternative  is  left  you.  You  must  pronounce  this  a 
jusl  rebellion ;  you  must  say  that  it  was  right  and  justifiable  to  destroy  this  re 
public ;  that  a  republic  is  a  weak,  helpless  government,  powerless  to  sustain  itself, 
and  to  be  destroyed  whenever  conspirators  enough  can  be  allied  for  the  purpose,  or 
you  must  show  to  the  wo-rld  the  power  of  self-preservation  in  the  great  example  of 
confederated  republics.  That  it  has  a  q.uiet,  dormant  force,  which,  aroused,  has 
gigantic  strength  and  energy.  That  it  not  only  can  protect  its  citizens  in  all  their 
rights  and  privileges,  but  can  sustain  itself  as  well  against  foreign  attack  as  inter 
nal  treason. 

We  are  fighting  for  the  republic — to  it  we  have  given  our  hearts,  our  arms,  our 
lives.  We  intend  to  stand  between  you  and  the  desolating  hosts  of  the  rebels, 
whose  most  cherished  hope  and  desire  has  been,  and  is,  to  take  possession  and 


218  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

ravage  your  own  beautiful  Ohio.  Once  already  we  have  stood  as  a  living  wall  be 
tween  you  and  this  fate,  and  we  may  have  to  do  it  again. 

Men  of  Ohio!  You  know  not  what  this  western  army  has  suffered.  You  know 
not  now  the  hardships  and  sufferings  of  your  soldiers  in  their  chill  tents,  their 
shelterless  bivouacs,  their  long,  weary  marches,  and  their  battle-thinned  ranks. 
If  there  be  honesty  and  purity  in  human  motives,  it  must  be  found  among  your 
long-enduring  soldiers.  Hear  us.  and  for  your  country's  sake,  if  not  for  ours, 
stop  your  wild,  shameless  political  strifes,  unite  for  the  common  cause,  and  never 
think  or  speak  of  peace  and  compromise  until  the  now  empty  terms  mean — the 
republic  as  it  was,  peaceably  if  it  may  be,  but  forcibly  at  all  events.  It  is  said 
war  and  force  can  not  restore  the  union  !  What  can  ? 

Is  there  anything  else  that  has  been  left  untried,  short  of  national  dishonor 
and  shame?  Nothing.  Purely  physical  power  has  been  invoked  to  destroy  the 
government,  and  physical  force  must  meet  it.  Conquer  the  rebellious  armies, 
shut  in  by  blockades  and  victorious  armies  the  deluded  people  of  the  rebellious 
states,  and  let  no  peace,  no  happiness,  no  prosperity  dwell  in  their  land  or  homes, 
until  they  rise  against  their  tyrants,  until  popular  opinion  with  them  overthrows 
their  false  government,  and  dooms  their  despotic  leaders.  Whip  them  and  confine 
them,  until  "  Actaeon  is  devoured  by  his  own  dogs." 

This  is  all  that  can  be  done,  and  it  must  be  done  with  the  determined  energy 
of  a  united  people.  Thus  feel  and  think  the  soldiers  of  the  grand  army  of  the 
United  States.  Are  you  with  us,  or  will  you  now  desert  us,  sell  your  national 
birthright  for  a  mess  of  pottage,  and  for  success  in  local  politics,  barter  away 
your  country,  crawl  at  the  feet  and  lick  the  hands  of  the  perfidious,  cruel  and 
devilish  conspirators,  who  have  organized  this  rebellion,  and  who  boast  of  their 
success  in  destroying  your  government,  slaying  your  sons  and  wasting  your  trea 
sure,  contemned,  derided  and  despised  by  them,  while  you  are  humbly  craving 
their  favor  ?  Not  waiting  or  even  hoping  for  returning  loyalty  in  them,  or  for 
terms  of  peace  to  be  tendered  by  them  ?  Can  you  thus  dishonor  yourselves,  your 
soldiers  or  your  state  ? 

We  ask  you  now  to  stay,  support  and  uphold  the  hands  of  your  soldiers. 

Give  some  of  the  wasted  sympathy,  so  illy  but  freely  bestowed  upon  the  old  poli 
tical  hacks  and  demagogues,  who  seek  a  blessed  martyrdom  in  Lincoln  bastiles, 
to  the  suffering  but  bravely-enduring  soldiers  who,  in  the  camp,  the  field  and  the 
hospital,  bear  real  hardships  uncomplainingly.  If  treason  must  run  riot  in  the 
north,  keep  it  there — insult  not  your  soldiers  by  sending  to  them  the  vile  emana 
tions  of  the  traitors  who  are  riding  into  office,  place  and  power,  over  the  ruins  of 
the  government,  and  making  them  their  stepping  stones.  Insult  us  not  by  letters, 
speeches  and  papers,  which  tell  us  we  are  engaged  as  hirelings  in  an  unholy,  abo 
lition  war,  which  make  mob  idols  of  the  hour  of  those  whose  hypocritical  dema- 
goguery  takes  shape  in  cowardly,  covert  treason — whose  constant  vocation  is 
denunciation  of  their  government  and  its  armed  defenders. 

The  army  of  the  west  is  in  terrible  earnest — earnest  to  conquer  and  destroy 
armed  rebels — earnest  to  meet  force  with  force — earnest  in  its  hearty  detestation 
of  cowardly  traitors  at  home — earnest  in  will  and  power  to  overcome  all  who  de 
sire  the  nation's  rnin. 

Ohio's  100,000  soldiers  in  the  field,  citizens  at  home,  potent  in  either  capacity, 
ask  their  fathers,  brethren  and  friends,  by  their  firesides  and  in  their  peaceful 
homes,  to  hear  and  heed  this  appeal,  and  to  put  an  end  to  covert  treason  at  home, 
more  dangerous  now  to  our  national  existence  than  the  presence  of  the  armed 
hosts  of  misguided  rebels  in  the  field. 

On  the  hearing  and  adoption  of  this  address  by  the  1st  brigade,  3d  division,  14th 
army  corps,  Colonel  Walker  also  reported  the  following  resolution,  which  was 
unanimously  adopted: 

"  Therefore,  Resolved,  For  ourselves,  we  are  resolved  to  maintain  the  honor 
and  integrity  of  our  government;  from  the  St  Lawrence  to  the  gulf,  and  between 
the  oceans,  there  shall  be  but  one  supreme  political  power.  We  are  able  to  de 
fend  our  birthright;  the  blood  of  our  sires  is  not  contaminated  in  our  veins;  we 
are  neither  to  be  insulted  nor  robbed  with  impunity;  the  government  we  defend 
was  formed  for  noble  purposes;  we  are  the  executors  of  a  living,  a  dying  testa- 


IN  OHIO. 


219 


ment  written  in  the  blood  of  our  fathers,  which  we  will  re-write  in  our  own;  to 
preserve  our  government,  is,  to  us,  a  law  unalterable  in  our  hearts  as  the  decrees 
of  Heaven;  we  stop  no.t  now  to  point  the  finger  of  scorn  at  petty  traitors  who 
vainly  seek  to  immortalize  themselves  by  acts  of  treason — too  cowardly  to  sin 
with  an  uplifted  hand,  too  dastardly  to  stake  life  for  life,  as  more  honorable  trai 
tors  do — let  them  bear  in  mind  that  there  is  a  time  coming,  when  the  honest  in 
dignation  of  a  loyal  people  will  hurl  them  headlong  into  an  abyss  as  bottomless 
as  the  pit.'* 

The  banishment  of  Mr.  Yallandigham  a  few  months  subsequent  to 
this  fermentation  among  the  people,  but  served  to  increase  it.  And 
so  much  sympathy  was  aroused  for  him  that  the  opposition  were  con 
strained  to  nominate  him  for  governor,  at  the  fall  election.  Mr.  Yal- 
landigham,  who  had  been  permitted  to  leave  the  southern  lines  by  the 
rebel  leaders,  made  his  way  to  Canada;  and  there  on  the  border 
watched  the  canvass.  In  the  result,  John  C.  Brough,  the  union  can 
didate,  was  elected  by  the  largest  majority  of  any  previous  candidate 
for  the  gubernatorial  chair.  His  total  majority  was  101,099.  Of  this, 
the  home  majority  was  61,920  and  the  soldiers'  majority  39,179.  Out 
of  43,755  soldiers'  votes  only  2,288  were  given  for  Yallandigham:  but 
of  the  citizens  who  remained  at  home,  secure  from  war's  alarms,  over 
180,000  signified  their  preference  for  him ;  many  sincerely  regarded 
him  as  the  subject  of  oppression.  In  thousands  of  cases,  the  sons  in 
the  army  voted  one  way  while  the  fathers  on  the  farms  voted  the 
other.  The  soldiers'  votes  was  a  signal  illustration  of  the  heaven- 
given  principle  that  those  who  mostly  do  sacrifice  for  a  cause,  mostly 
do  love  it.  The  canvass  was  the  most  exciting  ever  known  in  any 
state :  and  honorable  to  the  defeated  minority  that  they  submitted 
with  such  equanimity  to  the  adverse  verdict. 

THE  GENERALS  OP  OHIO. 

Ohio  is  the  native  state  of  more  eminent  generals  than  any  other. 
Among  these  are  Eosecrans,  Grant,  Sherman,  Sheridan,  Gilmore,  Mc- 
Pherson,  Ouster,  Stanley,  Granger,  Steedman,  Weitzell,  Orooke,  Gar- 
field,  Lytle  and  others.  Four  of  these  names — Grant,  Eosecrans,  Sher 
man  and  Sheridan — will  forever  live. 

Grant  was  born  in  1822  at  Point  Pleasant,  in  Clermont  county,  a  two 
hours'  trip  by  steamboat  from,  and  above,  Cincinnati,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Ohio.  The  three  others  were  born  in  the  heart  of  the  state;  Eose 
crans,  in  1819,  in  Kingston,  Delaware  county,  twenty-five  miles  north 
of  Columbus;  Sherman,  in  1818,  in  Lancaster,  F  airfield  county, 
twenty-eight  miles  southeast  of  Columbus:  Sheridan,  in  1831,  in  Som 
erset,  Perry  county,  eighteen  miles  east  of  Lancaster:  all  four  gradu 
ated  at  West  Point. 

A  vivid  pen-picture  of  Grant  and  Sherman,  drawn  in  a  single  frame, 
by  one  who  saw  them  when  together  at  Yicksburg,  is  in  place  here. 

First  in  rank,  as  well  as  notoriety,  we  have  Lieutenant-General  U.  S.  GRANT — 
indifferently  known  as  Grant,  Ulysses  S.  Grant,  United  States  Grant,  Uncle  Sam 
Grant,  and  "  Unconditional  Surrender"  Grant;  the  same  whose  "  move  on  the 
enemy's  works"  at  Fort  Donelson  has  become  national  property,  and  the  same 
man  under  whose  lead  our  armies  have  split  the  confederacy  in  two,  and  wrung 
from  their  grasp  all,  or  the  greater  portion,  of  the  Mississippi  valley. 

Almost  at  any  time,  one  can  see  a  small  but  cornpactly-built  man  of  about 
forty-two  years  of  age,  walking  through  the  camps.  He  moves  with  his  shoulders 


220  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

thrust  a  little  forward  of  the  perpendicular,  his  left  hand  in  the  pocket  of  his  pan 
taloons,  an  unjighted  cigar  in  his  mouth,  his  eyes  thrown  straight  forward,  which, 
from  the  haze  of  abstraction  that  veils  tfyem,  and  a  countenance  drawn  into  fur 
rows  of  thought,  would  seem  to  indicate  that  he  is  intensely  pre-occupied.  The 
soldiers  observe  him  coming,  and  rise  to  their  feet,  gather  on  each  side  of  the  way 
to  see  him  pass — they  do  not  salute  him,  they  only  watch  him  curiously,  with  a 
certain  sort  of  familiar  reverence.  His  abstracted  air  is  not  so  great,  while  he  is 
thus  moving  along,  as  to  prevent  his  seeing  everything  without  apparently  looking 
at  it;  you  will  see  this  in  the  fact  that  however  dense  the  crowd  in  which  you 
stand,  if  you  are  an  acquaintance,  his  eye  will  for  an  instant  rest  on  yours  with  a 
glance  of,  and  with  it  a  grave  nod  of,  recognition.  A  plain  blue  suit,  without 
scarf,  sword  or  trappings  of  any  sort,  save  the  triple-starred  shoulder-strap — an 
indifferently  good  "Kossuth  ''  hat,  with  the  top  battered  in  close  to  his  head;  full 
beard,  of  a  cross  between  "light"  and  "sandy;"  a  square  cut  face,  whose  lines 
and  contour  indicate  extreme  endurance  and  determination,  complete  the  exter 
nal  appearance  of  this  small  man,  as  one  sees  him  passing  along,  turning  and 
chewing  restlessly  the  end  of  his  unlighted  cigar. 

His  countenance,  in  rest,  has  the  rigid  immobility  of  cast-iron ;  and,  while  this 
indicates  the  unyielding  tenacity  of  a  bull-dog,  one  finds  only  in  his  gray  eyes  the 
smiles  and  other  evidences  of  the  possession  of  those  other  traits  seen  upon  the 
lips  and  over  the  faces  of  ordinary  people.  On  horseback,  he  loses  all  the  awk 
wardness  which  distinguishes  him  as  he  moves  about/on  foot.  Erect  and  graceful, 
he  seems  a  portion  of  his  steed,  without  which  the  full  elfect  would  be  incomplete. 
He  held  in  early  days  the  reputation  of  being  the  best  rider  in  the  Academy,  and 
he  seems  to  have  lost  none  of  his  excellence  in  this  respect. 

Along  with  the  body  guard  of  General  Grant  is  his  son  Fred.,  a  stout  lad  of 
some  twelve  summers.  He  endures  all  the  marches,  follows  his  father  under  fire 
with  all  the  coolness  of  an  old  soldier;  and  is,  in  short,  a  "chip  of  the  old 
block." 

Of  General  Grant's  ability  I  need  say  nothing — he  has  been  so  long  before  the 
public  that  all  can  judge  for  themselves.  The  south  calls  his  successes  "luck;  '' 
we  in  the  west  believe  that  he  owes  them  mostly  to  the  possession  of  a  cautious 
military  judgment,  assisted  by  good  advisers,  and  backed  by  invincible  persever 
ance,  endurance  and  determination. 

Almost  the  exact  opposite  in  every  feature  of  our  taciturn,  unsmiling  chief,  is 
Major-General  SHERMAN.  Tall,  loosely-built,  narrow  chest,  sandy  hair  and  beard, 
light  gray  eyes,  glancing  incessantly  in  every  direction,  smiling  mouth  and  rapid 
utterance,  he  forms  a  character  as  opposite  Grant's  as  zenith  to  nadir.  Grant 
goes  about  like  a  piece  of  marble,  endowed  with  just  sufficient  vitality  for  pur 
poses  of  locomotion,  while  Sherman,  whether  walking,  talking  or  laughing,  walks, 
talks  and  laughs,  uall  over."  Grant's  soul  is  crusted  over  with  rigidity — Sher 
man's  bursts  out  at  every  pour,  every  agitation  of  his  inner  man  produces  a  cor 
responding  agitation  of  his  physical  machine.  Soul  and  body  seem  attuned  in 
such  harmony,  that  a  chord  struck  upon  the  former  communicates  its  vibrations 
to  one  in  the  latter. 

Socially,  he  is  a  pleasant  man,  affable  to  his  inferiors  and  engaging  to  his  equals, 
with  a  mood  that  changes  with  the  rapidity  of  the  barometer  in  the  tropics.  With 
an  utterance  rapid  almost  to  incoherency,  he,  at  one  instant,  is  relating  some 
laughable  incident,  the  next  unfolding  the  details  of  some  masterly  plan,  and  the 
next  hurling  fierce  imprecations  upon  the  head  of  some  offender. 

Like  Grant,  he  has  courage  and  endurance  in  abundance — like  him.  he  will 
ride  into  a  storm  of  bullets,  and  sit  there  and  watch  and  order  as  unconcernedly 
as  if  the  air  were  filled  with  roses  instead  of  hissing  messengers  of  death.  Of 
his  ability,  there  is  in  the  army  but  one  opinion,  and  that  is,  that  among  the  ablest 
men  that  this  war  has  produced,  he  is  entitled  to  no  second  rank.  His  ability  is 
not  confined  to  any  specialty  ;  he  is  equally  at  home  whether  drilling  a  company 
or  division,  inspecting  a  quartermaster's  accounts,  arranging  the  details  of  a  battle, 
making  an  advance  or  ordering  a  retreat;  in  short,  he  seems  to  be,  and  is  familiar 
not  only  with  the  practical  details  of  war,  but  the  principles  which  underlie  this 
most  intricate  and  comprehensive  art 


IN  OHIO. 


221 


"PuiL.  SHERIDAN,"  as  his  soldiers  call  him,  is  the  Murat  of  the 
American  army.  One  who  knew  him  when  his  star  was  rapidly  cul 
minating,  says : 

We  have  an  enthusiastic  admiration  for  "  Phil."  Sheridan — Brigadier-*  reneral 
Ph.  Sheridan.  We  heard  of  him  first  at  Corinth,  Mississippi.  He  had  been  com 
manding  cavalry  under  Rosecrans — whose  estimate  of  soldiers  carries  weight 
He  delighted  more  to  talk  of  "  Phil."  Sheridan  than  of  any  man  in  the  army — 
General  George  H.  Thomas  excepted.  Of  him  he  always  spoke  reverentially — a 
man  who  reminded  him  of  Washington.  Rosecrans  admired  Sheridan's  curt,  de 
cisive  way  of  doing  things.  "Phil.,"  he  said,  ''has  no  surplusage.  He  does 
things  ;  "  and  the  general  was  happy  in  describing  the  grim,  insinuating  pleasantry 
with  which  Sheridan  outwitted  the  enemy,  or  hung  a  spy.  Language  can't  express 
it,  because  it  lacks  the  essentials  of  voice  and  manner.  ,  "  Send  Phil.  Sheridan  on 
an  expedition,"  he  was  wont  to  say,  "and  he  will  accomplish  it,  if  it  is  in  the 
power  of  man — he  is  ready,  fertile  in  resources,  with  large  executive  faculty,  and 
he  fights, ,/^Afc  / — do  you  know  what  that  means  ?  " 

Fighting  was  his  forte,  and  yet  he  is  the  ''  mildest-mannered  man  "  that  ever 
slashed  a  rebel  crown  with  saber.  It  is  related  of  him,  that  he  fought  his  way 
through  West  Point,  and  almost  fought  his  way  out.  We  have  his  own  confession, 
that  during  his  last  year  he  had  only  "five  points  "  to  make  to  be  permitted  to  re 
tire  without  the  honors  of  the  institution.  The  management  of  those  "  five  points  " 
was  a  difficult  and  delicate  operation.  Nevertheless,  he  graduated  with  distinc 
tion,  and  was  one  of  the  most  popular  men  of  the  academy. 

Your  first  view  of  him  disappoints  you  a  little.  Imagination  always  plays  the 
mischief  with  your  estimate  of  a  hero  whom  you  have  not  seen — heroic  stature, 
handsome  face,  commanding  presence,  all  seem  associated  with  heroes.  Sheridan 
is  a  quiet,  wiry,  strong  little  man,  not  over  five  feet  seven,  or  a  half  inch  more, 
but  with  broad  shoulders  and  strongly-knit  frame — weighing,  perhaps,  one  hund 
red  and  forty,  or  a  trifle  more;  short,  wiry,  black  hair,  compact  head  and  medium 
forehead,  sharp,  gray  eyes,  a  composed  and  firm  countenance — with  somewhat 
Milesian  features,  and  a  brownish  complexion,  shaded  with  closely-cropped 
whiskers. 

He  is  only  thirty-two,  but  his  weather-beaten  face  advertises  at  least  five  years 
more.  But  his  stature  is  soon  forgotten  in  his  presence.  He  grows  wonderfully 
on  a  horse,  and  especially  on  a  battle-field.  On  the  dreadful  morning  of  Stone 
river,  when  he  emerged  with  his  mangled  division  in  solid  phalanx  from  the  fright 
ful  cedars,  he  loomed  up  like  a  very  giant.  He  was  grave,  but  firm,  strong,  and, 
as  Rosecrans  dashed  up  to  him  in  the  tumult  of  battle,  his  deportment  seemed  to 
express,  "You  see,  general,  it  was  not  the  fault  of  my  division  that  we  did  not 
stay."  He  had  lost  his  hat  and  fought  bareheaded  until  a  trooper  handed  him  a 
hat  picked  up  in  the  field — a  dead  soldier's  no  doubt.  Sunday  morning  after 
ward — the  enemy  had  gone  then — Sheridan,  sitting  upon  an  old  stump,  at  general 
headquarters,  told  the  story  quietly,  but  graphically:  "General,  1  lost  1,796  men, 
70  of  them  officers,  with  my  3  brigade  commanders." 

These  were  noble  Sill,  Roberts  and  Shaeffer — than  whom  more  gallant  soldiers 
never  fought  under  the  flag.  Stone  river  made  Sheridan  a  major-general,  and  they 
always  said  in  the  army  of  the  Cumberland,  "  Phil.  Sheridan  is  the  rising  man  of 
this  army."  When  Grant  put  him  in  command  of  the  cavalry  on  the  Potomac 
those  who  knew  him  recognized  the  right  man  in  the  right  place. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  war,  General  Sheridan  was  a  lieutenant  of  infantry. 
Governor  Blair,  of  Michigan,  commissioned  him  as  colonel  of  a  regiment  of  Mich 
igan  cavalry,  and  he  was  actively  engaged  in  Tennessee  and  Mississippi,  doing 
valuable  service  and  hard  fighting,  until  he  was  prompted  to  brigadier-general, 
soon  after  which  he  was  assigned  to  the  command  of  a  division  in  McCook's  corps, 
where  he  remained  until  assigned  to  the  position  of  commander  of  the  cavalry  in 
the  army  of  the  Potomac.  His  parents  are  natives  of  Ireland,  but  he  is  a  native 
of  Ohio. 

In  the  history  of  war  there  is  not  a  single  instance  of  the  mere  per- 


222  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Bonal  advent  ot  a  general  upon  the  field,  unsustained  by  a  body  of 
fresh  troops,  changing,  by  the  simple  magic  of  his  presence,  a  defeat 
into  a  victory,  excepting  in  the  case  of  Sheridan  at  Cedar  creek.  Our 
men  had  given  way  everywhere,  and  when,  as  thus  described : 

Suddenly  there  is  a  dust  in  the  rear,  on  the  Winchester  road,  and  almost  before 
we  are  aware,  a  fiery-looking,  impetuous,  dashing  young  man  in  full  major-gen 
eral's  uniform,  and  riding  furiously  a  magnificent  black  horse,  literally  "  flecked 
with  foam,"  and  no  poetic  license  about  it,  reins  up  and  springs  off  by  General 
Crook's  side.  There  is  a  perfect  roar,  as  everybody  recognized  Sheridan.  He 
talks  with  Crook  a  little  while,  cutting  away  at  the  tops  of  the  weeds  with  his 
riding-whip.  General  Crook  speaks  half  a  dozen  sentences,  that  sound  a  great 
deal  like  the  whip,  and  by  that  time  some  of  the  staff  are  up.  They  are  sent  fly 
ing  in  different  directions.  Sheridan  and  Crook  lie  down  and  seem  to  be  talking, 
and  all  is  quiet  again,  except  the  vicious  shells  of  the  different  batteries,  and  the 
roar  of  artillery  along  the  line.  After  a  while,  Colonel  Forsyth  comes  down  in 
our  front  and  shouts  to  the  general:  "The  19th  corps  is  closed  up,  sir."  Sheridan 
jumps  up,  gives  one  more  cut  with  his  whip,  whirls  himself  around  once,  jumps 
on  his  horse  and  starts  up  the  line.  Just  as  he  starts  he  says  to  our  men — "  We 
are  going  to  have  a  good  thing  on  them  now,  boys!"  It  don't  wound  like  Cicero, 
or  Daniel  Webster,  but  it  doubled  the  force  at  our  end  of  the  line. 

And  so  he  rode  off,  a  long  wave  of  yells  rolling  up  to  the  right  with  him.  We 
took  our  posts,  the  line  moved  forward — and  the  balance  of  that  day  is  already 
history. 

The  descriptive  poem  of  Buchanan  Read  is  as  stirring  as  words  can 
paint  deeds.  Genius  in  song  illustrates  genius  in  war,  and  the  hearts 
of  the  nation  beat  in  unison  with  the  music. 

SHERIDAN'S  RIDE. 

Up  from  the  south  at  break  of  day, 
Bringing  to  Winchester  fresh  dismay, 
The  affrighted  air  with  a  shudder  bore, 
Like  a  herald  in  haste  to  the  chieftain's  door, 
The  terrible  grumble  and  rumble  and  roar, 
Telling  the  battle  was  on  once  more, 
And  Sheridan  twenty  miles  away. 

And  wilder  still  those  billows  of  war 

Thundered  along  the  horizon's  bar, 

And  louder  yet  into  Winchester  rolled 

The  roar  of  that  red  sea  uncontrolled, 

Making  the  blood  of  the  listener  cold 

As  he  thought  of  the  stake  in  that  fiery  fray, 

And  Sheridan  twenty  miles  away. 

But  there  is  a  road  from  Winchester  town, 

A  good,  broad  highway  leading  down  ; 

And  there,  through  the  flush  of  morning  light, 

A  steed,  as  black  as  the  steeds  of  night, 

Was  seen  to  pass  as  with  eagle  flight — 

As  if  he  knew  the  terrible  need 

He  stretched  away  with  his  utmost  speed; 

Hill  rose  and  fell — but  his  heart  was  gay, 

With  Sheridan  fifteen  miles  away. 

Still  sprung  from  those  swift  hoofs,  thundering  south, 
The  dust,  like  the  smoke  from  the  cannon's  mouth, 
Or  the  trail  of  a  comet,  sweeping  faster  and  faster, 
Foreboding  to  traitors  the  doom  of  disaster; 


IN  OHIO.  223 

The  heart  of  the  steed  and  the  heart  of  the  master 
Were  beating  like  prisoners  assaulting  their  walls, 
Impatient  to  be  where  the  battle-field  calls; 
Every  nerve  of  the  charger  was  strained  to  full  play, 
With  Sheridan  only  ten  miles  away. 

Under  his  spurning  feet,  the  road 

Like  an  arrowy  Alpine  river  flowed, 

And  the  landscape  sped  away  behind 

Like  an  ocean  flying  before  the  wind; 

And  the  steed,  like  a  bark  fed  with  furnace  ire, 

Swept  on,  with  his  wild  eyes  full  of  fire. 

But,  lo!  he  is  nearing  his  heart's  desire — 

He  is  snuffing  the  smoke  of  the  roaring  fray, 

With  Sheridan  only  five  miles  away. 

The  first  that  the  general  saw  were  the  groups 
Of  stragglers,  and  then  the  retreating  troops  ; — 
What  was  done — what  to  do — a  glance  told  him  both, 
Then  striking  his  spurs  with  a  terrible  oath, 
He  dashed  down  the  line  '  mid  a  storm  of  huzzas, 
And  the  wave  of  retreat  checked  its  course  there  because 
The  sight  of  the  master  compelled  it  to  pause, 
With  foam  and  with  dust  the  black  charger  was  gray; 
By  the  flash  of  his  eye,  and  his  red  nostrils'  play, 
He  seemed  to  the  whole  great  army  to  say : 
"1  have  brought  you  Sheridan  all  the  way 
From  Winchester  down  to  save  the  day  !  " 

Hurrah,  hurrah,  for  Sheridan  ! 
Hurrah,  hurrah,  for  horse  and  man  ! 
And  when  their  statutes  are  placed  on  high, 
Under  the  dome  of  the  union  sky, 
The  American  soldiers'  temple  of  fame, 
There  with  the  glorious  general's  name, 
Be  it  said  in  letters  both  bold  and  bright: 
"  Here  is  the  steed  that  saved  the  day, 
By  carrying  Sheridan  into  the  fight, 
From  Winchester — twenty  miles  away !  " 

The  character  of  EOSECRANS  is  indicated  by  the  following  anecdote, 
a  soldier  relates : 

On  Wednesday,  while  we  were  stationed  as  guard  to  the  ford,  Gen.  Rosecrans 
came  up  to  Col.  Price,  commanding  the  brigade,  and  said: 
'  You're  Col.  Price,  commanding  the  32d  brigade,  arc  you  ? 
4  Yes,  sir." 

Well,  Colonel,  will  you  hold  this  ford?" 
Well,  General,  I  will  if  T  can." 

That  won't  do,  sir,"  said  Rosecrans.     "Will  you  hold  this  ford?" 
'  I'll  die  in  the  attempt,"  responded  the  cautious  colonel. 
That  won't  do,  sir.      Will  you  hold  this  ford?' 
'I  will,"  said  the  colonel,  firmly,  and  General  Rosecrans  rode  off  without  an 
other  word,  and  left  the  colonel  to  fulfill  his  promise. 

The  last  day  of  1862  was  a  marked  one  in  the  history  of  Eosecrans. 
He  was  at  Stone  river;  his  array  was  encamped  in  line  of  battle. 
McCook's  corps  formed  his  right,  in  three  divisions — Johnson's,  Davis', 
Sheridan's.  Secretly,  with  the  stealthiness  of  savages,  the  rebels 
massed  themselves  at  the  extreme  right,  under  cover  of  the  woods. 


224  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

The  unsuspecting  soldiers  were  totally  unprepared.  Some  of  the  ar 
tillery  horses  were  off  for  water.  Advancing  through  the  morning 
fog,  they  bounded  on  like  an  army  of  ravenous  wolves,  screaming, 
yelling  as  they  ran,  striking,  first  upon  Johnson,  then  upon  Davis,  and 
at  last  upon  Sheridan,  rolling  and  crumbling  them  up,  and  hurling 
them,  routed  and  flying,  into  the  cedar  thickets  which  skirt  the  Nash 
ville  turnpike. 

Rosecrans  would  send  no  help.  He  was  fearful  of  weakening  his  left 
and  center,  which  up  to  this  had  not  been  engaged,  for  the  enemy  lay 
in  his  front  within  sight,  anxiously  watching  and  ready  to  pounce 
upon  him.  If  any  part  had  been  weakened  they  would  have  attacked, 
and,  if  successful,  would  have  destroyed  his  army.  His  preparations 
were  to  halt  the  enemy  on  his  defeated  right,  without  exposing  his 
left  and  center  to  imminent  danger.  For  this  purpose  he  massed  his 
artillery  and  troops  on  the  position  occupied  by  the  center,  one  of  the 
most  difficult  of  maneuvres,  and  changed  his  line  of  battle.  There 
it  was  that  the  genius  of  Rosecrans  was  displayed.  A  more  vivid 
description  of  battle  is  never  seen  than  this  which  any  eye-witness 
gives : 

Lines  upon  lines  were  piled  upon  each  other  with  matchless  skill.  Columns 
were  hurled  in  solid  ranks  from  one  side  of  the  field  to  the  other  as  if  they  were 
toys  ;  the  evolutions  of  the  brigades  as  steady  as  the  movements  of  a  grand  review. 
Thousands  acquired  an  idea  of  the  art  of  handling  masses  of  which  they  never 
dreamed  before. 

The  rebels  came  nearer  and  nearer  the  Nashville  turnpike,  nearly  two  miles  and 
a  half;  the  right  wing  of  our  army  had  been  driven  in  with  a  loss  of  twenty-eight 
pieces  of  artillery  and  a  thousand  of  our  men.  A  faintness  of  heart  came  over  me 
as  the  destruction  of  our  whole  army  seemed  to  stare  us  in  the  lace,  but  Rose 
crans  stood  with  the  flower  of  his  center  and  left  wing  in  an  array  of  imposing 
grandeur  along  the  turnpike  and  facing  the  woods.  The  scene  was  as  grand  and 
awful  at  this  time  as  anything  1  ever  expect  to  witness  until  the  day  of  judg 
ment.  Let  the  rebels  ever  obtain  possession  of  the  turnpike  and  of  the  immense 
train  of  wagons  along  it,  its  line  of  retreat  would  be  cut  off,  and  nothing  could 
save  the  union  army  from  utter  rout  and  capture.  Such  sounds  as  proceeded  from 
that  gloomy  forest  of  pines  and  cedars  were  enough  to  appal  the  stoutest  heart. 
The  roar  of  cannon,  the  crashing  of  the  shot  through  the  trees,  the  whizzing  and 
busting  of  shells,  the  uninterrupted  rattle  of  thirty  thousandrnuskets,  all  mingled 
in  one  prolonged  and  tremendous  volume  of  sounds ;  and  above  all  could  be 
heard  the  wild  cheers  of  the  traitorous  troops  as  body  after  body  of  our  men 
gave  way  and  were  pushed  back  toward  the  turnpike.  Nearer  and  nearer  came 
the  storm,  louder  and  louder  resounded  the  tumult  of  battle.  The  immense  train 
of  wagons  packed  along  the  roads  suddenly  seemed  instinct  with  struggling  life, 
and  every  species  of  army  vehicle,  preceded  by  frightened  mules  and  horses,  rolled 
and  rattled  away  pell-mell  in  an  opposite  direction  from  that  in  which  the  victori 
ous  foe  were  pressing  onward.  The  shouts  and  cries  of  terrified  teamsters  urg 
ing  teams  to  the  top  of  their  speed,  were  now  mingled  with  the  billows  of  sounds 
which  swayed  and  surged  over  the  field.  Suddenly  the  rout  became  visible,  and 
crowds  of  ten  thousand  fugitives,  presenting  every  possible  phase  of  wild  and  un 
controlled  disorder,  burst  from  the  cedar  thickets,  and  rushed  into  the  open  space 
between  them  and  the  turnpike.  Amongst  them  all,  perhaps  not  half  a  dozen 
members  of  the  same  regiment  could  have  been  found  together.  Thick  and  fast 
the  bullets  of  the  enemy  fell  amongst  them,  and  some  of  them  were  shot  down, 
but  still  the  number  constantly  increased  by  reason  of  the  thick  crowds  which 
every  moment  burst  from  the  thickets. 

Awaiting  the  coming  storm,  conspicuous  among  all  the  rest,  was  the  well  built 
form  of  our  COMMANDING  GENERAL,  his  countenance  unmoved  by  the  tumult  around 


IN  OHIO.  225 

him,  and  his  thoughtful  and  animated  features  expressing  a  high  and  patriotic 
hope  which  acted  like  an  inspiration  on  every  one  that  beheld  him.  As  he  cast 
his  eye  over  the  grand  army  which  he  had  mustered  to  repel  the  foe,  he  already 
felt  master  of  the  situation. 

At  last  the  long  lines  of  the  enemy  emerged  from  the  wood  rank  behind  rank, 
and  with  a  demoniac  yell,  intended  to  strike  terror  into  the  souls  of  the  Yankees 
who  stood  before  them,  charged  with  fearful  yells  to  the  very  muzzle  of  the  can 
non,  whose  dark  mouths  yawned  upon  them.  A  dazzling  sheet  of  flame  burst 
from  the  ranks  of  the  union  forces.  An  awful  roar  shook  the  earth,  a  crash  rent 
the  atmosphere,  and  the  foremost  line  of  the  rebel  host  was  literally  swept  from 
the  field.  For  ten  minutes  the  thunder  of  battle  burst  from  the  clouds.  When 
our  batteries  advanced  they  found  no  rebels  between  the  turnpike  and  the  wood, 
excepting  the  dead,  dying  and  wounded.  The  roar  of  our  artillery  sounded  farther 
and  farther  off  as  our  different  batteries  moved  after  the  routed,  flying  foe,  and 
we  in  turn  again  occupied  a  considerable  portion  of  the  lost  ground  of  the  morning. 

Since  the  annihilation  of  the  old  guard,  in  their  charge  at  Waterloo,  there  pro 
bably  had  not  been  an  instance  of  so  great  slaughter  in  so  short  a  time  as  in  this 
rebel  repulse  at  Murfreesboro. 

That  eminent  engineer  Maj.  Gen.  QUINCY  ADAMS  GILMORE  was  born 
in  1828,  some  thirty  miles  west  of  Cleveland,  on  the  margin  of  Lake 
Erie,  in  Black  river  township,  Lorrain  county. 

His  surprising  skill  in  gunnery,  shown  in  the  reduction  of  Fort  Pulaski,  and  in 
the  siege  of  Charleston,  has  lastingly  identified  his  name  with  the  highest  achieve 
ments  in  military  science.  His  "  swamp  angel,"  located  on  the  flats,  miles  away 
from  the  doomed  city,  became  a  very  fiend  of  destruction,  as  from  its  monster 
mouth  huge  fiery  missiles  shot  forth,  converting  entire  squares  into  shapeless  ruina, 
and  streets  into  untrodden,  deserted  wastes.  There,  where  for  thirty  years  trea 
son  had  stalked  in  wicked  effrontery,  the  demon  of  war  meted  out  righteous  ret 
ribution. 

OHIO'S  DEAD  !  they  lay  upon  every  battle  field.  Tens  of  thousands 
mourn  fathers,  brothers,  sons,  who  have  died  for  us  and  OURS. 
Beyond  the  sacred  limits  of  their  own  homes,  they  mostly  were  un 
known.  But  it  matters  not.  The  choicest  spirits,  the  most  noble  na 
tures  that  God  has  here  created  often  live  but  to  suffer  and  die,  crushed 
and  bleeding  among  the  obscure  of  earth.  They  rise  in  etherial  bright 
ness,  appreciated  in  the  higher  immortality. 

History  groups  them  in  masses,  and  holds  up  to  the  gaze  of  the  liv 
ing  the  heroism  of  their  dead.  Here  and  there  one,  who  has  been 
elevated  by  rank,  combined  with  opportunity  and  capacity,  is  singled 
out  for  an  individual  memorial.  A  few  such  among  Ohio's  dead  come 
under  our  notice. 

Major-General  James  B.  MCPHERSON,  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Peach- 
tree  creek,  July  22,  1864,  in  the  campaign  against  Atlanta,  in  his  36th 
year,  was  born  in  Sandusky,  Ohio.  He  was  educated  at  "West  Point. 
After  the  battle  of  Shiloh,  he  was  chief  engineer  and  had  charge  of 
all  the  fortifications  erected  in  the  siege  of  Corinth.  He  was  subse 
quently  assigned  to  the  command  of  a  division,  and  gained  great 
credit  at  Yicksburg,  as  one  of  the  chosen  officers  of  Grant. 

His  characteristics,  as  thus  described,  are  beautiful. 

In  few  military  men  of  our  army  were  the  qualities  of  a  true  gentleman  so  hap 
pily  blended  with  those  of  a  real  soldier.  Justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  most 
skillful  soldiers  in  the  western  army,  he  was  noted  for  a  total  absence  of  that 
roughness  and  uncouthness  of  manner,  almost  amounting  to  boorishness,  which 
some  officers  seem  to  regard  aa  a  sine  qua  non  to  the  make-up  of  a  good  com- 
15 


226  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

mander.  No  subordinate,  whatever  his  rank  or  station,  whether  private  soldier  or 
brigadier-general,  ever  received  from  him  an  unkind  answer  or  an  uncivil  word. 
He  was  as  courteous  to  his  body-servant  as  he  was  respectful  to  his  superiors  in 
rank  and  position.  The  writer  recollects,  on  one  occasion,  an  officer  said  to  him, 
'•  Why  don't  you  swear  at  the  damned  rascals?"  alluding  to  some  men  who  had 
been  guilty  of  dereliction  of  duty.  The  general  replied,  "  I  have  no  more  right  to 
swear  at  them  than  at  you.  How  would  you  like  to  have  me  damn  you  a  little 
now  and  then  ?  "  It  was  a  favorite  expression  of  his  that  politeness  was  a  coin 
that  passed  current  everywhere,  and  was  never  at  a  discount. 

His  courage  was  of  a  kind  most  valuable  to  an  army,  and  to  himself  as  a  com 
mander.  He  was  stoical,  but  never  impetuous — calm,  cool  and  self-possessed,  no 
matter  what  the  danger  that  might  surround  him.  He  never  lost  his  presence  of 
mind  for  a  single  moment,  even  in  the  most  desperate  situation,  or  during  the  pro 
gress  of  the  most  hotly-contested  engagement.  His  enthusiasm  never  got  the  bet 
ter  of  his  judgment,  and  he  could  give  as  good  counsel  and  advice  during  the  pro 
gress  of  a  bayonet  charge,  led  by  himself,  as  if  he  were  enjoying  a  social  tete  a 
tete  far  removed  from  the  scene  of  hostile  operations.  He  would  form  his  line  of 
battle  under  the  heaviest  fire  of  the  enemy,  with  as  much  indifference  to  rebel 
cannon  and  sharpshooters  as  if  he  were  arranging  a  holiday  dress-parade.  We 
think  we  utter  but  the  verdict  of  all  who  knew  General  McPherson,  when  we  say 
he  was  a  model  soldier  and  a  model  gentleman. 

General  McPherson  was  killed  under  the  following  circumstances  :  The  battle 
of  the  22d  was  fairly  opened  about  12  o'clock,  M.  After  it  had  progressed  some 
time,  a  gap  appeared  in  our  line  between  the  16th  and  17th  corps,  which  the  reb 
els  sought  to  take  advantage  of  and  permanently  divide  the  line.  Gen.  McPher- 
son,  perceiving  this  situation  and  danger,  at  once  rushed  to  the  front,  and,  with 
two  or  three  of  his  staff,  was  superintending  the  location  of  men  to  defeat  the 
rebel  plan.  This  brought  him  within  fifty  yards  of  the  rebel  advance,  who  fired 
a  volley  on  him  and  his  few  companions.  A  ball  struck  him  in  the  right  side,  and 
passing  through,  shattered  the  spinal  column,  causing  instantaneous  death. 

Major-General  Logan  was  at  once  quietly  notified  of  what  had  occurred,  and 
without  the  troops  knowing  their  terrible  loss,  the  battle  went  on,  and  a  victory 
won  by  McPherson's  troops  on  the  plan  devised  by  him.  It  was  about  half  an 
hour  after  his  death  before  the  corpse  was  fully  in  our  possession,  it,  in  the  mean 
time,  lying  on  the  disputed  ground  between  the  two  armies. 

General  McPherson  rode,  on  this  occasion,  a  favorite  black  horse,  which  he  ob 
tained  of  a  surgeon  after  the  battle  of  Corinth,  and  which  had  carried  him  safely 
through  every  battle  in  which  he  had  since  been  engaged.  So  fortunate  had  both 
been,  that  he  had  come  to  feel  a  degree  of  safety  on  the  back  of  his  noble  steed. 
But  in  this,  their  last  association,  the  charm  was  broken  with  both  of  them — the 
rider  was  killed,  and  the  charger  received  three  balls,  which,  however,  were  not 
fatal. 

The  correspondence  that  ensued  between  General  Grant  and  the 
grandmother  of  McPherson,  aged  87  years  and  4  months,  on  the  occa 
sion  of  his  death  is  a  most  touching  souvenir.  A  good  old  lady,  as 
her  letter  shows  her  to  be,  is  very  certain  to  be,  as  she  was,  blessed  in 
the  perpetuation  of  virtue  to  the  second  generation. 

CLYDE,  Ohio,  August  3,  1864. 
To   General  Grant: 

DEAR  SIR — I  hope  you  will  pardon  me  for  troubling  you  with  the  perusal  of  these  few  lines 
from  the  trembling  hand  of  the  aged  grandma  of  our  beloved  General  James  B.  McPher 
son,  who  fell  in  battle. 

When  it  was  announced  at  his  funeral,  from  the  public  print,  that  when  General  Grant 
heard  of  his  death,  he  went  into  his  tent  and  wept  like  a  child,  my  heart  went  out  in 
thanks  to  you  for  the  interest  you  manifested  in  him  while  he  was  with  you. 

I  have  watched  his  progress  from  infancy  up.  In  childhood,  he  was  obedient  and  kind  ; 
in  manhood,  interesting,  noble  and  persevering,  looking  to  the  wants  of  others.  Since  he 
entered  the  war,  others  can  appreciate  his  worth  more  than  I  can.  When  it  was  announced 
to  us,  by  telegraph,  that  our  loved  one  had  fallen,  our  hearts  were  almost  rent  asunder; 


IN  OHIO. 


227 


out  when  we  heard  the  commander-in-chief  could  weep  with  us  too,  we  felt,  sir,  that  yon 
bad  been  as  a  father  to  him,  and  this  whole  nation  is  mourning  his  early  de;ith. 

I  wish  to  inform  you  that,  his  remains  were  conducted  by  a  kind  guard  to  the 
very  parlor  where  he  spent  a  cheerful  evening,  in  1861,  with  his  widowed  "  tnothev,  two 
brothers,  an  only  sister  and  his  aged  grandma,  who  is  now  trying  to  write.  In  the  morn 
ing,  he  took  his  leave  at  6  o'clock,  little  dreaming  he  should  fall  by  a  ball  from  the  en*Miiy. 
His  funeral  services  were  attended  in  his  mother's  orchard,  where  bis  youthful  feet  had  often 
pressed  the  soil  to  gather  the  falling  fruit,  and  his  remains  are  resting  in  the  silent  jjrHv«-', 
scarce  half  a  mile  from  the  place  of  his  birth.  His  grave  is  on  an  eminence  but  a  few  rods 
from  where  the  funeral  services  were  attended,  and  near  the  grave  of  his  father.  The 
grave,  no  doubt,  will  be  marked,  so  that  passers  by  will  often  pause  to  drop  a  tear  over 
the  departed. 

And  now,  dear  friend,  a  few  lines  from  you  would  be  gratefully  received  by  the  afflicted 
friends.  I  pray  that  the  God  of  battles  may  be  with  you,  and  go  forth  with  your  armies 
till  rebellion  shall  cease,  the  union  be  restored,  and  the  old  flag  wave  over  our  entire  coun 
try.  With  much  respect,  I  remain  your  friend,  LYDIA  SLOCUM, 

Aged  87  years  and  4  months. 


GENERAL  GRANTS  REPLY 

TERS  AR 

CITY  POINT,  VA.,  August  10,  1864 


HEADQUARTERS  ARMIES  OP  THE  UNITED  STATES,  1 

.      J 


Mrs.  Lydia  Slorum  : 

MY  DEAR  MADAM  —  Your  very  welcome  letter  of  the  3d  inst.  has  just  reached  me.  I 
am  glad  to  know  the  relatives  of  the  lamented  Major-General  McPherson  are  aware  of 
the  more  than  friendship  existing  between  him  and  myself.  A  nation  grieves  at  the 
loss  of  one  so  dear  to  our  nation's  cause.  It  is  a  selfish  grief,  because  the  nation  had 
more  to  expect  from  him  than  from  almost  any  one  living.  I  join  in  this  selfish  grief, 
and  add  the  grief  of  personal  love  for  the  departed.  He  formed  for  some  time  one  of 
my  military  family.  I  knew  him  well.  To  know  him  was  but  to  love  him.  It  may 
be  some  consolation  to  you,  his  aged  grandmother,  to  know  that  every  officer  and  every 
soldier  who  served  under  your  grandson,  felt  the  highest  reverence  for  his  patriotism, 
his  zeal,  his  great,  almost  unequaled  ability,  his  amiability,  and  all  the  many  virtues 
that  can  adorn  a  commander.  Your  bereavement  is  great,  but  can  not  exceed  mine. 

Yours  truly,  U.  S.  GRANT,  Lieut.-Gen. 

Brigadier-Gen.  EGBERT  L.  McCooK  was  a  member  of  that  heroic 
Ohio  family,  that  has  lost  so  many  members  in  the  war.  One  of  them, 
a  mere  boy  of  seventeen,  was  killed  at  Bull  Run,  at  the  beginning  of 
the  rebellion.  Being  called  upon  to  surrender,  —  he  replied  —  "I  never 
surrender  to  a  rebel;  "upon  uttering  which,  he  was  shot.  Another 
son,  Brigadier-General  Daniel  McCook,  was  mortally  wounded  at  Ken- 
esaw  Mountain.  The  father,  a  venerable  old  man,  volunteered  to  as 
sist  in  driving  Morgan's  guerrillas  from  the  state,  and  was  killed  in 
action:  and  Robert  McCook  himself  was  assassinated  by  rebels.  A 
fourth  brother  is  the  Major-General  Alexander  McDowel  McCook,  an 
army  corps  commander  at  Perry  ville,  Stone  river  and  Chickamauga. 
Robert  at  the  outbreak  of  the  war,  was  a  lawyer  in  Cincinnati.  Within 
48  hours  after  the  President's  first  call  he  mustered  into  the  service 
the  9th  Ohio,  and  had  them  in  camp.  It  was  composed  entirely  of 
Germans,  became  one  of  the  most  effective  of  regiments,  and  had  the 
distinguished  honor  of  making  at  Mill  Springs  the  first  bayonet  charge 
of  the  war.  He  was  a  large-hearted,  impulsive  man  :  and  so  hated 
all  pretense  and  show  of  any  kind,  that  he  most  unwillingly  submitted 
to  the  requirement  of  wearing  a  military  dress.  He  was  murdered  in 
the  summer  of  1862,  while  riding,  sick  and  recumbent  in  a  spring- 
wagon,  attended  by  a  small  escort  of  half  a  dozen  cavalrymen,  who, 
all  but  one,  cowardly  galloped  off  as  the  guerrillas  appeared.  The 
subsequent  particulars  are  thus  stated. 

Captain  Hunter  Brooke,  was  riding  with  the  general,  who,  owing  to  his  feeble 
condition,  was  lying  in  the  bottom  of  the  box.  When  the  guerrillas  opened  the 
fire  upon  the  conveyance,  Gen.  McCook  at  once  exclaimed,  "The  bushwhackers 


228  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION. 

are  upon  us,"  ordered  the  driver,  his  negro  servant  John,  to  turn  quickly  around, 
and  rose  to  his  knees  to  assist  him  in  holding  the  frightened  horses.  The  team 
was  just  fairly  started,  when  the  murderer  of  the  general  came  up  and  ordered 
it  to  halt  It  being  impossible  to  check  the  spirited  horses  at  once,  the  team  kept 
moving,  when  the  guerrilla  again  ordered  it  to  halt,  but  almost  instantaneously 
fired  the  fatal  shot  from  his  carbine,  although  Captain  Brooke  begged  him  not  to 
fire  upon  a  sick  man.  Another  rebel  rode  up  at  the  same  time  and  aimed  his  gun, 
when  the  general  told  him,  reproachfully,  "You  need' nt  shoot,  I  am  already  fa 
tally  wounded."  The  bullet  passed  entirely  through  his  body,  fatally  tearing  the 
intestines. 

The  main  body  of  the  rebels  pursued  the  flying  escort,  and  but  three  or  four 
remained  with  their  victim.  The  general  was  driven  to,  and  taken  into,  the  house 
at  which  he  died,  by  Captain  Brooke  and  John.  He  stated  afterward,  that  when 
the  party  came  up  to  the  house,  the  occupants,  women  and  children,  clapped  their 
hands  in  approbation  of  the  rebel  achievement.  In  a  few  minutes,  those  that  had 
gone  in  pursuit,  came  tearing  back,  and  hurried  off  with  Captain  Brooke.  John, 
upon  the  advice  of  the  general,  had  previously  managed  to  escape  out  of  the 
house  and  through  a  corn-field. 

The  general  lived  about  twenty-four  hours  after  being  wounded.  He  was  con 
scious  to  the  last,  although  frequently  unable  to  speak  from  the  dreadful  pain  he 
was  suffering.  Whenever  able  he  uttered  words  of  advice,  gratitude  and  con 
solation  to  those  around  him. 

His  dying  moments  showed  the  nobility  of  the  man.  In  a  lull  of  his  parox 
ysms  of  anguish,  he  said  to  young  Captain  Burt,  "Andy,  the  problem  of  life  will 
soon  be  solved  for  me.  My  good  friend,  may  your  life  be  longer  and  to  a  better 
purpose  than  mine."  In  reply  to  Father  Beatty,  the  brigade  wagon-master,  if  he 
had  any  message  for  his  brother,  Alex.,  he  answered:  "Tell  him  and  the  rest,  I 
have  tried  to  live  as  a  man,  and  die  attempting  to  do  my  duty."  Finally,  clasping 
his  hands  in  the  death  struggle,  the  dying  man  exclaimed  :  "  I  am  done  with  life  ; 
yes,  this  ends  all.  You  and  1  part  now,  but  the  loss  of  ten  thousand  such  lives  as 
yours  and  mine  would  be  nothing,  if  their  sacrifice  would  but  save  such  a  govern 
ment  as  ours." 

The  whole  brigade  arrived  at  the  house  about  an  hour  after  he  was  wounded. 
The  men  came  up  in  double  quick,  panting  and  shouting  for  vengeance.  The  ef 
fect  of  the  sad  sight  of  their  mortally-wounded  general  upon  them  was  most  dis 
tressing.  All  day  and  night  the  faithful  sol.diery  were  grouped  about  the  house, 
waiting  their  turn  to  bid  a  last  farewell  to  their  commander.  Neither  among  the 
officers  nor  the  men  was  there  a  dry  eye,  or  a  lip,  not  quivering  with  anguish.  A 
more  moving  scene,  it  is  said,  was  never  beheld.  The  brigade  did  not  resume  its 
march  until  the  general  had  breathed  his  last 

.Retribution — terrible  retribution  was  dealt  by  the  9th  Ohio.  With  fire,  and 
sword,  and  bayonet,  the  scene  of  the  foul  assassination  was  reduced  to  a  state  of 
desolation.  Every  house  in  the  neighborhood,  and  over  70  of  rebel  citizens,  men, 
were  shot  or  hung. 

Major  Gen.  O.  M.  MITCHELL  was  born  in  Kentucky  in  1810;  but 
when  a  boy  removed  to  Ohio,  and  from  that  time  was  identified  with 
this  state.  At  fifteen  years  of  age  he  received  a  cadet  warrant ;  and, 
being  poor,  earned  the  money  that  paid  his  expenses  to  West  Point. 
But  his  manner  of  traveling  was  humble ;  for,  bearing  his  knapsack, 
he  footed  it  all  the  way  from  home,  in  Lebenon,  Warren  county,  Ohio, 
and  arrived  there  in  June,  1825,  with  only  twenty-five  cents  in  his 
pocket.  Soon  after  graduating  he  settled  in  Cincinnati,  founding  in 
1845,  the  first  Astronomical  Observatory  ever  erected  on  the  globe  by 
the  contributions  of  the  people.  When  the  war  broke  out,  he  said  : 
u  He  was  ready  to  fight  in  the  ranks,  or  out  of  it ;  and  he  only  asked 
permission  from  his  country  to  have  something  to  do."  This  sentence 
«.  was  the  key  note  to  his  character — patriotism  and  intense  activity. 


IN  OHIO.  229 

In  August,  1861,  he  was  created  general.  After  the  occupation  of  Nashville 
he  was  given  command  of  an  independent  expedition;  when,  with  incredible 
celerity,  he  marched  across  the  country  and  took  possession  of  the  whole  of  the 
railroad  running  across  north  Alabama,  and  at  the  same  time  guarding  that  from 
Nashville  to  Stevenson,  making  in  all  352  miles  of  railroad,  besides  120  miles  of 
river  patroling,  to  prevent  the  rebels  getting  up  ferries  and  crossing  the  Tennes 
see;  with  his  pickets  extending  over  hundreds  of  miles,  he  knew  almost  every  hour 
what  was  transpiring  in  that  large  district  From  Corinth,  on  the  West,  to  Chat 
tanooga,  on  the  east,  he  kept  the  rebels  in  continual  excitement  by  his  rapid  move 
ments.  No  sooner  had  he  planned  and  started  an  expedition  in  one  direction  than 
be  followed  it  by  the  instant  execution  of  a  new  one  in  another.  One  day  he  was 
threatening  the  rebel  general  at  Chattanooga,  and  had  him  telegraphing  all  over 
the  South  for  help.  Another,  he  was  on  the  left  wing  of  the  Corinth  army,  driving 
their  guerrillas  across  the  Tennessee.  The  moving  force  of  Mitchell,  aside  from 
those  left  to  guard  the  railroads  was  less  than  3,000  men,  and  but  one  regiment 
of  cavalry, — John  Kennett's  4th  Ohio.  These  were  always  in  advance,  scattered 
over  a  territory  of  300  miles,  and  so  continually  moving,  that  Kirby  Smith,  at 
Chattanooga,  could  not  refrain  from  asking,  "  How  many  thousand  of  the  4th  Ohio 
cavalry  are  there  ?  We  can't  put  our  foot  down  anywhere  but  we  find  them." 
So  active  and  daring  was  Mitchell,  and  so  much  was  accomplished,  that  the  en 
emy  fancied  he  must  have  had  thirty  thousand  men ! 

In  all  his  operations,  Mitchell  never  threw  up  a  single  spadeful  of  earth,  unless 
it  was  to  hold  a  railroad  bridge;  and  he  never  allowed  the  enemy  to  attack  him 
in  any  position  or  in  any  single  instance,  while  he  harassed  them  continually  by 
skirmishes  and  assaults.  Sleeping  but  four  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four,  with  all 
the  energies  of  a  most  ardent  temperament  enlisted  in  the  cause,  he  formed  a  con 
trast  to  the  slow-moving  Buell.  This  officer,  after  the  evacuation  of  Corinth, 
marched  with  his  army  corps  of  nearly  40,000  men,  and  took  chief  command. 
In  the  fall  (1862)  Mitchell  was  put  in* command  of  the  department  of  the  south, 
and  was  preparing  for  a  vigorous  campaign  against  Charleston  when  he  was 
seized  with  yellow  fever,  and  died  on  the  30th  of  October. 

General  Mitchell  was  the  author  of  several  valuable  astronomical 
works  ;  and  as  a  lecturer  on  astronomy,  so  far  surpassed  all  others,  as 
to  have  been  pronounced  the  only  lecturer  on  the  subject  the  country 
ever  had.  His  religious  instincts  were  very  strong;  he  was  all  alive 
with  feeling;  he  possessed  great  fluency  and  command  of  language, 
and  he  electrified  his  audiences  with  this  most  sublime,  elevating  topic, 
as  probably  no  man  living  or  dead  had  ever  done  before. 

His  "  Words  for  Poor  Boys"  show  what  were  his  early  struggles, 
and  the  spirit  that  enabled  him  to  rise  above  obstacles.  Poor  boys, 
some  of  them,  we  trust,  will  read  these  pages.  Here  is  encouragement 
from  the  lips  of  a  good  and  eminent  man. 

When  I  was  a  boy  of  twelve  years,  I  was  working  for  twenty-five  cents  a  week,  with 
an  old  lady,  and  I  had  my  hands  full,  but  I  did  my  work  faithfully.  I  used  to  cut 
wood,  fetch  water,  make  fires,  scrub  and  scour  in  the  mornings,  for  her,  before  the  real 
work  of  the  day  commenced  ;  my  clothes  were  bad,  and  I  had  no  means  of  buying  shoes, 
so  was  often  barefooted. 

One  morning  I  got  through  my  work  early,  and  the  old  lady,  who  thought  I  had  not 
done  it,  or  was  especially  ill-humored  then,  was  displeased,  scolded  me,  and  said  I  was 
idle  and  had  not  worked.  I  said  I  had  ;  she  called  me  a  "  liar."  I  felt  my  spirit  rise  in 
dignantly  against  this,  and  standing  erect  I  told  her  that  she  could  never  have  the  chance 
of  applying  that  word  to  me  again.  I  walked  out  of  the  house,  to  re-enter  it  no  more. 

I  had  not  a  cent  in  my  pocket  when  I  stepped  into  the  world.  What  do  you  think  I  did 
then,  boys  ?  I  met  a  countryman  with  a  team,  I  addressed  him  boldly  and  earnestly,  and 
offered  to  drive  the  leader,  if  he  would  only  take  me  on.  He  looked  at  me  in  surprise, 
but  said  he  did  not  think  I'd  be  of  any  use  to  him.  "  0  yes,  I  will,"  said  I  ;  "  I  can 
rub  down  and  watch  your  horses,  and  do  many  things  for  you,  if  you  will  only  let  me 
try."  He  no  longer  objected.  I  got  on  the  horse's  back.  It  was  hard  traveling,  for 
the  roads  were  deep,  and  we  could  only  get  on  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  per  day. 
This  was,  however,  my  starting-point.  I  went  ahead  after  this.  An  independent  spirit, 


230 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


and  a  steady,  honest  conduct,  with  what  capacity  God  has  given  me — as  he  has  given 
you — have  carried  me  successfully  through  the  /world. 

Don't  be  down-hearted  at  being  poor,  or  having  no  friends.  Try,  and  try  again. 
You  can  cut  your  way  through,  if  you  live,  so  please  God.  I  know  it's  a  hard  time  for 
some  of  you.  You  are  often  hungry  and  wet  with  the  rain  or  snow,  and  it  seems  dreary 
to  have  no  one  in  the  city  to  care  for  you.  But  trust  in  Christ,  and  he  will  be  your 
friend.  Keep  up  good  heart,  and  be  determined  to  make  your  own  way,  honestly  and 
truly,  through  the  world.  As  I  said,  I  feel  for  you,  because  I  have  gone  through  it 
»11— I  know  what  it  is.  God  bless  you. 

General  WM.  H.  LYTLE  was  born  in  Cincinnati,  on  the  2d  of  Nov. 
1826,  and  bred  to  the  law.  He  served  in  the  Mexican  war;  and  at  the 
breaking  out  of  the  rebellion  was  chosen  colonel  of  the  10th  Ohio  vol 
unteer  infantry,  almost  entirely  composed  of  Irishmen, — a  fighting 
regiment,  of  course.  He  was  wounded  at  Carnifex  Ferry,  also  at  the 
battle  of  Chaplin's  hills,  Ky.;  and  finally,  killed  while  leading  a  charge 
at  Chickamauga,  September,  20,  1863.  He  was  a  man  singularly 
gifted,  and  sincerely  mourned.  The  following  is  a  faithful  tribute  to 
his  memory. 

LINES  TO  THE  MEMORY  OF  WM.  H.  LYTLH. 


The  flag  was  draped  with  funeral  hues — 

The  flag  he  loved  so  well ; 
*  Neath  which  he  marched  to  battle  oft — 

'Neath  which  he  prondly  fell, 
Its  glorious  folds  were  wound  around 

The  noble  warrior's  breast ; 
Together  they  were  in  the  fight, 

Together  let  them  rest. 

Dea.t}  marches  on  the  muffled  drams 

For  soldier  true  and  tried, 
For  poet  sweet,  bring  lyre  and  sword, 

And  lay  them  by  his  side. 
Though  strong  of  hand,  of  gentle  heart, 

If  prayers  and  sighs  could  save, 
We  h;u(  not  followed  him  in  tears, 

To  his  untimely  grave. 


Untimely!  No — his  country  called, 

For  her  he  shed  his  blood  : 
But  left  these  glorious  names  behind, 

The  GaJlant  and  the  Good  I 
Gallant  and  Good,  yes— Gifted,  too; 

Ohio's  crown  of  pride 
Ne'er  lost  a  brighter  star,  than  when 

The  noble  Lytle  died. 

Yet  long  upon  the  storied  page, 

His  honored  name  shall  stand, 
Not  last  and  least  among  the  great 

And  worthy  of  our  land. 
As  he  remembers  Lytle's  sword. 

The  patriot  shall  be  strong  ; 
And  bards  shall  inspiration  catch 

From  Lytle's  fervid  song. 


But  Lytle  needed  no  lines  from  stranger- pen  to  perpetuate  his  fame. 
The  poet's  own  does  that  in  these  sad  strains,  as  plaintive  as  those  of 
an  Eolian. 


ANTONY  AND  CLEOPATRA. 


I  am  dying,  Egypt,  dying, 

Ebbs  the  crimson  life-tide  fast, 
And  the  dark  Plutonian  shadows 

Gather  on  the  evening  blast ; 
Let  thine  arm,  O  Queen,  enfold  me, 

Hush  thy  sobs  and  bow  thine  ear, 
Listen  to  the  great  heart  secrets 

Thou,  and  them  alone  must  bear. 

Though  my  scarred  and  veteran  legions 

Beur  their  eagles  high  no  more, 
And  my  wrecked  and  scattered  galleys 

Strew  dark  Actium's  fatal  shore ; 
Though  no  glittering  guards  surround  me, 

Prompt  to  do  their  master's  will, 
I  nius-t  perish  like  a  Roman, 

Die  the  great  Triumvir  still. 

Let  Caesar's  servile  minions 

Mark  the  lion  thus  laid  low  ; 
*  Twas  no  foeman's  arm  that  felled  him, 
Twas  his  own  that  struck  the  blow- 
His  who.  pillowed  on  thy  bosom, 

Turned  aside  from  glory's  ray — 
His  who,  drunk  with  thy  caresses. 

Madly  threw  a  world  away. 


Shonld  the  base  plebian  rabbTe 

Dare  assail  my  name  at  Rome, 
Where  the  noble  spouse,  Octaria, 

Weeps  within  her  widowed  home, 
Seek  her  ;  say  the  gods  bear  witness, 

Altars,  angurs,  circling  wings, 
That  her  blood,  with  mine  commingled, 

Yet  shall  mount  the  thrones  of  kings. 

And  for  thee,  star-eyed  Egyptian  ! 

Glorious  sorceress  of  the  Nile, 
Light  the  path  to  stygian  horrors 

With  the  splendors  of  thy  smile  ; 
Give  the  Caesar  crowns  and  arches, 

Let  his  brow  the  laurel  twine. 
I  can  scorn  the  senate's  triumphs, 

Triumphing  in  love  like  thine. 

I  am  dying,  Egypt,  dying ; 

Hark  I  the  insulting  foeman's  cry, 
They  are  coming  ;  quick,  my  falchion, 

Let  me  front  them  ere  I  die. 
Ah,  no  more  amid  the  battle 

Shall  my  heart  exulting  swell, 
Isis  and  Osiris  guard  thee, 

Cleopatra,  Rome,  farewell ! 


INDIANA. 


INDIANA  was  originally  included  in  the  limits  of  "  New  France,"  and 
afterward  in  the  "  North-west  Territory."  Its  territory  was  traversed  by  the 

French  traders  and  Catholic  mission 
aries  at  an  early  period.  According 
to  some  historians,  Vincennes  was 
occupied  as  a  French  military  post  in 
1716,  and  as  a  missionary  station  as 
early  as  1700.  The  first  original 
vsettlers  were,  probably,  mostly,  or  en 
tirely,  French  soldiers  from  Canada, 
belonging  to  the  army  of  Louis  XIV. 
Their  descendants  remained  an  almost 
isolated  community,  increasing  very 
slowly  for  nearly  one  hundred  years, 
and  in  the  mean  time  they  imbibed  a 
taste  for  savage  life,  from  habits  of 
intercourse  with  their  Indian  neigh 
bors  exclusively,  with  whom  they 
often  intermarried.  In  consequence 
of  this  fraternization  with  the  In 
dians,  they  became  somewhat  degenerated  as  a  civilized  community. 

By  the  treaty  of  peace  between  France  and  Great  Britain  in  1763,  all  the 
French  possessions  in  this  region  were  transferred  to  Great  Britain,  but  the 
settlers  still  retained  their  original  rights.  During  the  revolutionary  war, 
the  French  settlers  displayed  their  hereditary  animosity  against  the  English. 
In  1778,  a  Spanish  resident  gave  such  information  respecting  the  strength 
and  position  of  the  British  force  at  Vincennes,  that  by  his  directions,  Gen. 
Clark,  of  Virginia,  easily  obtained  possession.  By  the  treaty  of  1783,  the 
territory  comprised  in  the  limits  of  Indiana  came  into  the  possession  of  the 
United  States. 

In  the  Indian  war  which  succeeded  the  first  settlement  of  what  is  now  the 
state  of  Ohio,  several  military  expeditions  were  sent  into  the  present  limits 
of  Indiana.  The  first,  in  order  of  time,  was  that  of  Gen.  Harmar,  who 
marched,  in  the  autumn  of  1790,  with  a  large  body  of  troops  from  Fort 
Washington,  at  Cincinnati,  against  the  Indian  towns  on  the  Maumee,  on  or 
near  the  site  of  Fort  Wayne.  The  towns  were  destroyed,  but  detached  par 
ties  of  the  army  were  defeated  in  two  separate  engagements. 
(231) 


ARMS  OF  INDIANA. 


232  INDIANA. 

In  May,  of  the  next  year,  750  Kentuckians,  under  Gen.  Charles  Scott, 
rendezvoused  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kentucky  River,  and,  crossing  the  Ohio 
on  the  23d,  marched  northward  with  great  rapidity.  In  about  three  weeks 
the  expedition  returned  to  Kentucky,  without  the  loss  of  a  man,  after  hav 
ing  surprised  and  destroyed  several  towns  on  the  Wabash  and  Eel  Rivers, 
killed  32  of  the  enemy  in  skirmishes,  and  taken  58  prisoners. 

In  the  succeeding  August,  Col.  James  Wilkinson  left  Fort  Washington 
with  550  mounted  Kentucky  volunteers,  to  complete  the  work  which  had 
been  so  successfully  begun  by  Gen.  Scott,  against  the  Indians  on  the  Wabash 
and  its  tributaries.  The  expedition  was  successful.  Several  towns  were  de 
stroyed,  the  corn  was  cut  up  and  34  prisoners  taken. 

By  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  in  1795,  the  United  States  obtained  valuable 
tracts  of  land,  for  which  they  paid  the  Indians  money  and  goods.  Other 
tracts  were  obtained,  afterward,  in  the  same  manner.  But,  notwithstanding 
this,  a  part  of  the  Indians  still  remained  hostile,  and  being  excited  by  the 
eloquence  of  Tecumseh,  the  celebrated  Shawnee  warrior,  several  of  the  Indian 
tribes  united  in  resistance  to  the  progress  of  the  whites  at  the  west. 

Although  by  the  ordinance  of  1787,  slavery  was  forever  prohibited  in  the 
territory  north-west  of  the  Ohio,  strong  and  repeated  efforts  were  made  to  es 
tablish  the  institution  temporarily  within  the  Indiana  Territory.  The  first 
of  these  was  made  in  1802-3,  through  the  instrumentality  of  a  convention 
presided  over  by  the  territorial  governor,  William  Henry  Harrison,  which 
petitioned  congress  to  temporarily  suspend  the  operation  of  the  anti-slavery 
clause  of  the  ordinance.  These  attempts  were  repeated  through  a  succession 
of  years,  until  the  winter  of  1806-7,  when  a  final  effort  was  made  by  the  ter 
ritorial  legislature  to  this  end.  All  were  without  avail,  although  some  of  the 
committees  of  congress,  to  whom  the  subject  was  referred,  reported  in  favor  of 
the  measure.  * 

Just  previous  to  the  war  of  1812,  with  Great  Britain,  Indiana  was  ha 
rassed  by  the  hostile  movements  of  the  Shawnees,  led  on  by  Tecumseh  and 
his  brother  the  Prophet.  To  oppose  these  proceedings,  bodies  of  regular 
troops  and  militia  were  concentrated  at  Vincennes,  and  placed  under  the 
command  of  William  Henry  Harrison,  then  governor.  On  rfov.  7,  1811,  the 
governor  appeared  before  Prophet's  town,  or  Tippecanoe,  on  the  Wabash, 
and  demanded  restitution  of  the  property  which  the  Indians  had  carried  off. 
After  a  conference  it  was  agreed  that  hostilities  should  not  commence  until 

*  The  arguments  by  which  this  policy  was  advocated,  are  thus  set  forth  in  the  following 
extract  of  a  report  of  a  congressional  committee,  made  in  favor  of  the  prayer  of  the  peti 
tioners  on  the  14th  of  February,  1806.  "  That,  having  attentively  considered  the  facts 
stated  in  the  said  petitions  and  memorials,  they  are  of  opinion  that  a  qualified  suspension, 
for  a  limited  time,  of  the  sixth  article  of  compact  between  the  original  states,  and  the  peo 
ple  and  states  west  of  the  River  Ohio,  would  be  beneficial  to  the  people  of  the  Indiana  Ter 
ritory.  The  suspension  of  this  article  is  an  object  almost  universally  desired  in  that  terri 
tory. 

It  appears  to  your  committee  to  be  a  question  entirely  different  from  that  between  slavery 
and  freedom ;  inasmuch  as  it  would  merely  occasion  the  removal  of  persons,  already  slaves, 
from  one  part  of  the  country  to  another.  The  good  effects  of  this  suspension,  in  the  pres 
ent  instance,  would  be  to  accelerate  the  population  of  that  territory,  hitherto  retarded  by 
the  operation  of  that  article  of  compact,  as  slave-holders  emigrating  into  the  western  coun 
try  might  then  indulge  any  preference  which  they  might  feel  for  a  settlement  in  the  Indiana 
Territory,  instead  of  seeking,  as  they  are  now  compelled  to  do,  settlements  in  other  states 
or  countries  permitting  the  introduction  of  slaves.  The  condition  of  the  slaves  themselves 
would  be  much  ameliorated  by  it,  as  it  is  evident,  from  experience,  that  the  more  they  are 
separated  and  diffused,  the  more  care  and  attention  are  bestowed  on  them  by  their  masters, 
each  proprietor  having  it  in  his  power  to  increase  their  comforts  and  conveniences,  in  pro 
portion  to  the  smallness  of  their  numbers." 


INDIANA. 


233 


next  morning.  The  enemy,  however,  attempted  to  take  Harrison  by  sur 
prise  the  night  after  the  conference.  The  governor  knowing  the  character  of 
his  wily  foe,  arranged  his  troops  in  battle  order  as  they  encamped.  Just  be 
fore  day  they  were  attacked  by  the  Indians,  but  the  Americans  being  pre 
pared  for  the  onset,  they  successfully  repelled  the  savages.  The  conflict, 
though  short,  was  unusually  severe ;  the  Indians  fought  with  desperate  cour 
age,  but  the  fate  of  the  battle  was  soon  decided,  and  the  Indians  fled  in  every 
direction,  having  lost,  it  is  supposed,  about  150  of  their  number.  Harrison 
now  laid  waste  their  country,  and  soon  afteward  the  tribes  sued  for  peace. 

The  war  of  1812,  with  Great  Britain,  gave  a  fresh  impetus  to  Indian  hos 
tilities.  Seduced  into  the  British  service,  the  Indians,  after  committing 
great  cruelties,  received  full  retribution  from  the  Americans  j  their  villages 
were  destroyed  and  their  country  laid  waste. 

The  outline  of  the  military  events  which  occurred  within  the  present  boun 
daries  of  the  state,  are  as  follows : 

Fort  Harrison,  situated  on  the  Wabash,  60  miles  above  Vincennes,  was  attacked 
on  the  night  of  the  4th  of  September,  1812,  by  several  hundred  Indians  from  the 
Prophet's  town.  In  the  evening  previous,  30  or  40  Indians  appeared  before  the 
fort  with  a  flag,  under  the  pretense  of  obtaining  provisions.  The  commander, 
Capt.  Zachary  Taylor  (since  president),  made  preparations  for  the  expected  at 
tack.  In  the  night,  about  11  o'clock,  the  Indians  commenced  the  attack  by  firing 
on  the  sentinel.  Almost  immediately,  the  lower  block-house  was  discovered  to 
have  been  set  on  fire.  As  this  building  joined  the  barracks  which  made  part  of 
the  fortifications,  most  of  the  men  panic  stricken,  gave  themselves  up  for  lost.  In 
the  mean  time,  the  yells  of  several  hundred  savages,  the  cries  of  the  women  and 
children,  and  the  despondency  of  the  soldiers,  rendered  it  a  scene  of  confusion. 
But  the  presence  of  mind  of  the  captain,  did  not  forsake  him.  By  the  most  stren 
uous  exertions  on  his  part,  the  fire  was  prevented  from  spreading,  and  before  day 
the  men  had  erected  a  temporary  breast-work  seven  feet  high,  within  the  spot 
where  the  building  was  consumed.  The  Indians  kept  up  the  attack  until  morning, 
when,  finding  their  efforts  ineffectual,  they  retired.  At  this  time,  there  were  not 
more  than  20  men  in  the  garrison  fit  for  duty. 

Shortly  after,  Gen.  Hopkins,  with  a  large  force,  engaged  in  two  different  expe 
ditions  against  the  Indians  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Wabash  and  the  Illinois. 
The  first  was  in  October.  With  4,000  mounted  volunteers  from  Kentucky,  Illi 
nois  and  Indiana,  he  left  Vincennes  early  in  the  month,  relieved  Fort  Harrison  on 
the  10th,  and  from  thence,  marched  for  the  Kickapoo  villages,  and  the  Peoria 
towns — the  first  100,  and  the  last  160  miles  distant.  But  his  men  mutinizing,  he 
was  obliged  to  return  before  reaching  the  hostile  towns.  On  the  llth  of  Novem 
ber,  he  marched  from  Fort  Harrison,  on  his  second  expedition,  with  a  detachment 
of  regular  troops  and  volunteers.  On  the  20th,  he  arrived  at  the  Prophet's  town, 
at  which  place  and  vicinity,  he  destroyed  300  wigwams,  and  large  quantities  of 
Indian  corn.  Several  other  expeditions  were  successfully  accomplished,  against 
the  Indians  on  the  Wabash,  the  Illinois,  and  their  tributaries,  by  which  the  se 
curity  of  that  frontier  was  effected. 

Immediately  after  the  massacre  at  Chicago,  Fort  Wayne  was  closely  besieged 
by  several  hundred  Miami  and  Pottawatomie  Indians.  The  garrison  numbered 
only  some  60  or  70  effective  men.  The  siege  continued  until  near  the  middle  of 
September,  when  Gen.  Harrison  marched  to  its  relief  with  2,500  men,  upon  which 
the  Indians  fled. 

From  Franklinton,  in  Central  Ohio,  Harrison,  in  November,  sent  Col.  Camp 
bell,  with  600  men,  against  the  Indian  towns  on  the  Missininneway,  a  branch  of 
the  Wabash.  They  destroyed  several  of  their  towns,  and  defeated  the  Indians  in 
a  hard  fought  battle,  but  the  severity  of  the  weather  compelled  them  to  return. 

Until  1800,  the  territory  now  included  in  Indiana,  remained  a  portion  of 
the  North-west  Territory.  In  this  year  it  was,  including  the  present  state 


234  INDIANA. 

of  Illinois,  organized  under  the  name  of  Indiana  Territory.  In  1809,  the 
western  part  of  the  territory  was  set  off  as  "Illinois  Territory."  In  1816, 
Indiana  was  admitted  into  the  Union. as  a  sovereign  state.  In  1851,  a  new 
constitution  was  adopted  by  the  people. 

Until  1818,  the  central  part  of  Indiana  was  an  unbroken  wilderness,  in 
habited  by  the  Miami,  Delaware,  and  Shawnee  Indians.  By  a  treaty  at  St. 
Mary's,  Ohio,  October  2,  1818,  between  Lewis  Cass,  Jonathan  Jennings, 
and  Benjamin  Park,  commissioners,  and  the  Delaware  Indians,  the  latter 
ceded  all  their  territory  in  Indiana  to  the  United  States,  covenanting  to  de 
liver  the  possession  in  1821.  This  region  was  afterward  called  "the  New 
Purchase."  Its  reported  fertility  and  beauty  attracted  settlers,  who  imme 
diately  entered  the  country  and  made  settlements  at  various  points. 

Indiana  is  bounded  N.  by  Michigan  and  Lake  Michigan,  W.  by  Illinois, 
E.  by  Ohio,  and  S.  by  the  Ohio  River.  It  lies  between  37°  45'  and  41°  52' 
N.  Lat.,  and  85°  49'  30"  and  88°  2'  30"  W.  Long.  Its  extreme  length  from 
north  to  south  is  276  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  176,  containing  33,809 
square  miles,  or  21,  637,760  aeres.  The  soil  of  the  state  is  generally  good, 
and  much  of  it  highly  fertile.  The  richest  lands  are  found  in  the  river  bot 
toms,  where  the  soil  is  very  deep.  This  is  especially  the  case  in  the  valleys 
of  the  Wabash  and  its  tributaries,  and  in  some  parts  of  the  Ohio  valley. 

There  are  no  mountains  in  Indiana,  but  the  country  bordering  on  the  Ohio, 
and  in  some  other  parts  is  hilly  and  broken.  It  is  estimated  that  about  two 
thirds  of  the  state  is  level,  or  at  most  slightly  undulating.  Bordering  on  all 
the  principal  streams,  except  the  Ohio,  are  strips  of  bottom  and  prairie  land 
from  three  to  five  miles  in  width.  Remote  from  the  rivers,  the  country  is 
broken  and  the  soil  light.  Between  the  Wabash  and  Lake  Michigan,  the 
surface  is  generally  level,  interspersed  with  woodlands,  prairies  and  swamps. 
On  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  are  sand  hills  210  feet  high,  back  of  which 
are  sandy  hillocks  with  a-  growth  of  pine.  The  prairies  bordering  on  the 
Wabash  have  a  soil  from  two  to  five  feet  in  depth. 

The  principal  agricultural  production  of  Indiana  is  Indian  corn  :  great 
quantities  of  pork  and  flour  are  annually  exported.  It  is  stated  that  Indiana 
has  beds  of  coal  within  her  limits  covering  7,700  square  miles,  capable  of 
yielding  50,000,000  bushels  to  the  square  mile.  The  population  of  Indiana 
in  1800  was  4,875;  in  1820,  147,178;  in  1840,  685,886;  in  1850,  988,393  ; 
and  in  1860,  1,359,802. 

VINCENNES,  the  county  seat  of  Knox  county,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  Wabash  River,  120  miles  S.W.  of  Indianapolis,  192  from  Cin 
cinnati,  147  from  St.  Louis,  and  56  N.  of  Evansville,  on  the  Ohio.  It  is  on 
the  line  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad,  and  is  connected  with  Evans 
ville  at  the  south,  and  with  Terra  Haute  and  other  places  at  the  north,  by 
railroad.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  on  a  fertile  level  prairie.  The 
Wabash  is  navigable  for  steamboats  to  this  point.  Vincennes  contains  eight 
churches.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  Catholic  bishopric,  and  a  large,  spacious  Cathe 
dral  is  erected  here.  Considerable  attention  is  paid  to  education,  and  of  the 
principal  institutions,  several  are  Catholic,  viz:  an  ecclesiastical  seminary, 
female  academy,  and  two  orphan  asylums.  The  Vincennes  University  has 
125  students.  Population  about  6,000. 

Viricennes  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  state:  it  was  settled  by  a  colony  of 
French  emigrants  from  Canada,  in  1735.  Some  historians  claim  that  it  was 
occupied  as  a  French  post  as  early  as  1720.  It  received  its  present  name  in 


INDIANA. 


235 


1735,  from  M.  de  Vincennes,  a  French  officer  who  was  killed  that  year  among 
the  Chickasaws.  For  a  long  period  nothing  of  much  moment  seems  to  have 
occurred  in  the  history  of  St.  Vincent,  as  Vincennes  was  sometimes  called. 
At  the  commencement  of  the  American  Revolution,  most  of  the  old  French 


South  view  of  the  Harrison  House,  Vincennes. 

The  house  here  represented  was  erected  by  Gen.  Harrison,  when  governor  of  the  territory.  Tt  stands 
on  the  banks  of  the  Wabash,  a  few  rods  easterly  from  the  railroad  bridge.  The  grove  in  which  Tecumseh 
met  th«  council  is  immediately  in  front  of  the  house,  two  trees  of  which,  seen  on  the  left,  are  the  only  onea 
remaining.  The  track  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad  appears  iu  the  foreground.  '• 

posts  were  garrisoned  with  British  troops,  who  incited  the  Indian  tribes  in 
their  vicinity  to  take  up  arms  against  the  Americans.  In  1778,  Col.  George 
Rogers  Clark  was  sent  by  the  legislature  of  Virginia,  with  a  small  force,  to 
take  possession  of  the  British  posts  on  the  western  frontiers.  By  his  address 
he  succeeded  in  obtaining  possession  of  Kaskaskia,  Cahokia,  and  Vincennes, 
without  bloodshed. 

In  Dec.,  1778,  Hamilton,  the  British  governor  at  Detroit,  came  down  upon 
St.  Vincent,  or  Vincennes,  with  a  large  body  of  troops  in  an  unexpected 
manner.  At  this  time,  Post  Vincennes  was  garrisoned  by  two  men  only, 
Capt.  Helm,  of  Virginia,  and  one  Henry.  "  Helm,  however,  was  not  dis 
posed  to  yield,  absolutely,  to  any  odds;  so,  loading  his  single  cannon,  he 
stood  by  it  with  a  lighted  match.  W  hen  the  British  came  nigh  he  bade 
them  stand,  and  demanded  to  know  what  terms  would  be  granted  the  garri 
son,  as  otherwise  he  should  not  surrender.  The  governor,  unwilling  to  lose 
time  and  men,  offered  the  usual  honors  of  war,  and  could  scarcely  believe 
his  eyes  when  he  saw  the  threatening  garrison  to  be  only  one  officer  and  one 
private."  On  the  24th  of  Feb.,  1779,  Col.  Clark,  with  a  force  of  one  hun 
dred  and  seventy  men,  including  pack-horsemen,  etc.,  re-appeared  before 
Vincennes,  and  demanded  its  surrender.  It  was  garrisoned  at  this  time  by 
seventy-nine  men,  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Gov.  Hamilton,  who  was 
called  the  "hair  buyer,"  for  his  offering  the  Indians  a  certain  sum  for  each 
scalp  they  brought  in.  He  was  compelled  to  give  up  ul?ort  Sackville,"  and 
with  some  others,  was  sent  prisoner  to  Virginia. 

With  the  capture  of  Vincennes  and  the  other  British  posts,  of  Kaskaskia, 


236  INDIANA. 

Cahokia,  etc.,  in  the  Illinois  country,  by  Clark,  Virginia  acquired  the  coun 
try  then  known  as  the  North-west  Territory,  which  she  ceded  to  the  gen 
eral  government,  in  1789.  When  the  Indiana  Territory  was  organized  in 
1800,  Vincennes  was  made  the  capital,  and  so  remained  until  1813,  when 
Corydon  became  the  capital  of  the  Territory  and  in  1816  of  the  state.  la 
1825,  Indianapolis,  within  the  "  New  Purchase,"  became  the  state  capital. 


The  following  account  of  the  celebrated  interview  between  Tecumseh  and 
Gen.  Harrison,  in  front  of  the  Harrison  House,  now  standing  in  Vincennes, 
is  from  Judge  Law's  "  Colonial  History  of  Post  Vincennes,  etc.:" 

In  the  spring  of  1810,  Gen.  Harrison,  being  governor  of  the  North-western  Ter 
ritory,  and  residing  at  Vincennes — the  seat  of  government — had  learned  from  va 
rious  quarters  that  Tecumseh  had  been  visiting  the  different  Indian  tribes,  scat 
tered  along  the  valleys  of  the  Wabash  and  Illinois,  with  a  view  of  forming  an  alli 
ance  and  making  common  cause  against  the  whites,  and  that  there  was  great  prob 
ability  that  his  mission  had  been  successful.  Aware,  as  he  was,  that  if  this  was 
the  case,  and  that  if  the  combination  had  been  formed,  such  as  was  represented, 
the  settlements  in  the  southern  portion  of  Indiana  and  Illinois  were  in  great  dan 
ger;  that  Vincennes  itself  would  be  the  first  object  of  attack,  and  that,  with  a 
handful  of  troops  in  the  territory,  a  successful  resistance  might  not  be  made ;  and 
not  probably  fully  aware  of  the  extent  of  the  organization  attempted  by  Tecumseh, 
and  desirous  of  avoiding,  if  he  could,  the  necessity  of  a  call  to  arms,  he  sent  a 
message  to  him,  then  residing  at  the  "  Prophet's  Town,"  inviting  him  to  a  council, 
to  be  held  at  as  early  a  period  as  possible,  for  the  purpose  of  talking  over  and 
amicably  settling  all  difficulties  which  might  exist  between  the  whites  and  the 
Shawnees.  It  was  not  until  the  month  of  August  of  the  same  year,  that  Tecum 
seh,  accompanied  by  about  seventy  of  his  warriors  made  his  appearance.  They 
encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  Wabash,  just  above  the  town,  and  Tecumseh  gave 
notice  to  the  governor  that,  in  pursuance  of  his  invitation,  he  had  come  to  hold  a 
talk  "  with  him  and  his  braves.  '  The  succeeding  day  was  appointed  for  the  meet 
ing.  The  governor  made  all  suitable  preparations  for  it.  The  officers  of  the  ter 
ritory  and  the  leading  citizens  of  the  town  were  invited  to  be  present,  while  a  por 
tion  of  a  company  of  militia  was  detailed  as  a  guard — fully  armed  and  equipped 
for  any  emergency.  Notice  had  been  sent  to  Tecumseh,  previous  to  the  meeting, 
that  it"  was  expected  that  himself  and  a  portion  of  his  principal  warriors  would  be 
present  at  the  council.  The  council  was  held  in  the  open  lawn  before  the  gov 
ernor's  house,  in  a  grove  of  trees  which  then  surrounded  it  But  two  of  these,  I 
regret  to  say,  are  now  remaining.  At  the  time  appointed,  Tecumseh  and  some 
fifteen  or  twenty  of  his  warriors  made  their  appearance.  With  a  firm  and  elastic 
step,  and  with  a  proud  and  somewhat  defiant  look,  he  advanced  to  the  place  where 
the  governor  and  those  who  had  been  invited  to  attend  the  conference  were  sitting. 
This  place  had  been  fenced  in,  with  a  view  of  preventing  the  crowd  from  encroach 
ing  upon  the  council  during  its  deliberations.  As  he  stepped  forward  he  seemed 
to  scan  the  preparations  which  had  been  made  for  his  reception,  particularly  the 
military  part  of  it,  with  an  eye  of  suspicion — by  no  means,  however,  of  fear.  As  he 
came  in  front  of  the  (fats,  an  elevated  portion  of  the  place  upon  which  the  governor 
and  the  officers  of  the  territory  were  seated,  the  governor  invited  him,  through  his 
interpreter,  to  come  forward  and  take  a  seat  with  him  and  his  counsellors,  premis 
ing  the  invitation  by  saying:  "That  it  was  the  wish  of  their  'Great  Father,'  the 
President  of  the  United  States,  that  he  should  do  so."  The  chief  paused  for  a 
moment,  as  the  words  were  uttered  and  the  sentence  finished,  and  raising  his  tall 
form  to  its  greatest  hight,  surveyed  the  troops  and  the  crowd  around  him.  Then 
with  his  keen  eyes  fixed  ujxm  the  governor  for  a  single  moment,  and  turning  them 
to  the  sky  above,  with  his  sinewy  arm  pointing  toward  the  heavens,  and  with  a  tone 
and  manner  indicative  of  supreme  contempt  for  the  paternity  assigned  him,  said, 
in  a  voice  whose  clarion  tone  was  heard  throughout  the  whole  assembly : 

"My  Father! — The  sun  is  my  father — the  earth  is  my  mother — and  on  her  bosom 


INDIANA. 


237 


/ will  recline"  Having  finished,  he  stretched  himself  with  his  warriors  on  the 
green  sward.  The  effect,  it  is  said,  was  electrical,  and  for  some  moments  there  was 
perfect  silence. 

The  governor,  through  the  interpreter,  then  informed  him,  "  that  he  had  under 
stood  he  had  complaints  to  make  and  redress  to  ask  for  certain  wrongs  which  he, 
Tecuinseh,  supposed  had  been  done  his  tribe,  as  well  as  the  others ;  that  he  felt 
disposed  to  listen  to  the  one  and  make  satisfaction  for  the  other,  if  it  was  proper 
he  should  do  so.  That  in  all  his  intercourse  and  negotiations  with  the  Indians,  he 
had  endeavored  to  act  justly  and  honorably  with  them,  and  believed  he  had  done 
so,  and  had  learned  of  no  complaint  of  his  conduct  until  he  learned  that  Tecumseh 
was  endeavoring  to  create  dissatisfaction  toward  the  government,  not  only  among 
the  Shawnees,  but  among  the  other  tribes  dwelling  on  the  Wabash  and  Illinois ; 
and  had,  in  so  doing,  produced  a  great  deal  of  trouble  between  them  and  the 
whites,  by  averring  that  the  tribes  whose  land  the  government  had  lately  purchased, 
had  no  right  to  sell,  nor  their  chiefs  any  authority  to  convey.  That  he,  the  gov 
ernor,  had  invited  him  to  attend  the  council,  with  a  view  of  learning  from  his  own 
lips,  whether  there  was  any  truth  in  the  reports  which  he  had  heard,  and  to  learn 
whether  he,  or  his  tribe,  had  any  just  cause  of  complaint  against  the  whites,  and, 
if  so,  as  a  man  and  a  warrior,  openly  to  avow  it.  lhat  as  between  himself  and  as 
great  a  warrior  as  Tecumseh,  there  should  be  no  concealment — all  should  be  done 
by  them  under  a  clear  sky,  and  in  an  open  path,  and  with  these  feelings  on  his  own 
part,  he  was  glad  to  meet  him  in  council."  Tecumseh  arose  as  soon  as  the  gov 
ernor  had  finished.  Those  who  knew  him  speak  of  him  as  one  of  the  most  splen 
did  specimens  of  his  tribe — celebrated  for  their  physical  proportions  and  fine  forms, 
even  among  the  nations  who  surrounded  them.  Tall,  athletic  and  manly,  digni 
fied,  but  graceful,  he  seemed  the  beau  ideal  of  an  Indian  chieftain.  In  a  voice 
first  low,  but  with  all  its  indistinctness,  musical,  he  commenced  his  reply.  As  he 
warmed  with  his  subject,  his  clear  tones  might  be  heard,  as  if  "  trumpet-tongued/' 
to  the  utmost  limits  of  the  assembled  crowd  who  surrounded  him.  The  most  per 
fect  silence  prevailed,  except  when  the  warriors  who  surrounded  him  gave  their 
gutteral  assent  to  some  eloquent  recital  of  the  red  man's  wrong  and  the  white 
man's  injustice.  Well  instructed  in  the  traditions  of  his  tribe,  fully  acquainted 
with  their  history,  the  councils,  treaties,  and  battles  of  the  two  races  for  half  a 
century,  he  recapitulated  the  wrongs  of  the  red  man  from  the  massacre  of  the  Mo 
ravian  Indians,  during  the  revolutionary  war,  down  to  the  period  he  had  met  the 
governor  in  council.  He  told  him  "  he  did  not  know  how  he  could  ever  again  be 
the  friend  of  the  white  man."  In  reference  to  the  public  domain,  he  asserted 
41  that  the  Great  Spirit  had  given  all  the  country  from  the  Miami  to  the  Mississippi, 
from  the  lakes  to  the  Ohio,  as  a  common  property  to  all  the  tribes  that  dwelt  within 
those  borders,  and  that  the  land  could  not,  and  should  not  be  sold  without  the  con 
sent  of  all.  That  all  the  tribes  on  the  continent  formed  but  one  nation.  That  if 
the  United  States  would  not  give  up  the  lands  they  had  bought  of  the  Miamis,  the 
Delawares,  the  Potto watomies,  and  other  tribes,  that  those  united  with  him  were 
determined  to  fall  on  those  tribes  and  annihilate  them.  That  they  were  deter 
mined  to  have  no  more  chiefs,  but  in  future  to  be  governed  by  their  warriors. 
That  their  tribes  had  been  driven  toward  the  setting  sun,  like  a  galloping  horse 
(Ne-kat-a-cush-e  Ka-top-o-lin-to.)  That  for  himself  and  his  warriors,  he  had  de 
termined  to  resist  all  further  aggressions  of  the  whites,  and  that  with  his  consent, 
or  that  of  the  Shawnees,  they  should  never  acquire  another  foot  of  land.  To  those 
who  have  never  heard  of  the  Shawnee  language,  I  may  here  remark  it  is  the 
most  musical  and  euphonious  of  all  the  Indian  languages  of  the  west  When 
spoken  rapidly  by  a  fluent  speaker,  it  sounds  more  like  the  scanning  of  Greek  and 
Latin  verse,  than  anything  I  can  compare  it  to.  The  effect  of  this  address,  of 
which  I  have  simply  given  the  outline,  and  which  occupied  an  hour  in  the  delivery, 
may  be  readily  imagined. 

William  Henry  Harrison  was  as  brave  a  man  as  ever  lived.  All  who  knew  him 
will  acknowledge  his  courage,  moral  and  physical,  but  he  was  wholly  unprepared 
for  such  a  speech  as  this.  There  was  a  coolness,  an  independence,  a  defiance  in 
the  whole  manner  and  matter  of  the  chieftain's  speech  which  astonished  even  him. 
He  knew  Tecumseh  well.  He  had  learned  to  appreciate  his  high  qualities  as  a 


238  INDIANA. 

man  and  warrior.  He  knew  his  power,  his  skill,  his  influence,  not  only  over  his 
own  tribe,  but  over  those  who  dwelt  on  the  waters  of  the  Wabash  and  Illinois.  He 
knew  he  was  no  braggart — that  what  he  said  he  meant — what  he  promised  he  in 
tended  to  perform.  He  was  fully  aware  that  he  was  a  foe  not  to  be  treated  light — 
an  enemy  to  be  conciliated  not  scorned — one  to  be  met  with  kindness  not  contempt. 
There  was  a  stillness  throughout  the  assembly  when  Tecumseh  had  done  speaking 
which  was  painful.  Not  a  whisper  was  to  be  heard — all  eyes  were  turned  from 
the  speaker  to  the  governor.  The  unwarranted  and  unwarrantable  pretensions  of 
the  chief,  and  the  bold  and  defiant  tone  in  which  he  had  announced  them,  stag 
gered  even  him.  It  was  some  moments  before  he  arose.  Addressing  Tecumseh, 
who  had  taken  his  seat  with  his  warriors,  he  said :  "  That  the  charges  of  bad  faith 
made  against  the  government,  and  the  assertion  that  injustice  had" been  done  the 
Indians  in  any  treaty  ever  made,  or  any  council  ever  held  with  them  by  the  United 
States,  had  no  foundation  in  fact.  That  in  all  their  dealings  with  the  red  man, 
they  had  ever  been  governed  by  the  strictest  rules  of  right  and  justice.  That 
while  other  civilized  nations  had  treated  them  with  contumely  and  contempt,  ours 
had  always  acted  in  good  faith  with  them.  That  so  far  as  he  individually  was  con 
cerned,  he  could  say  in  the  presence  of  the  'Great  Spirit,'  who  was  watching  over 
their  deliberations,  that  his  conduct,  even  with  the  most  insignificant  tribe,  had 
been  marked  with  kindness,  and  all  his  acts  governed  by  honor,  integrity  and  fair 
dealing.  That  he  had  uniformly  been  the  friend  of  the  red  man,  and  that  it  was 
the  first  time  in  his  life  that  his  motives  had  been  questioned  or  his  actions  im 
peached.  It  was  the  first  time  in  his  life  that  he  had  ever  heard  such  unfounded 
claims  put  forth,  as  Tecumseh  had  set  up,  by  any  chief,  or  any  Indian,  having  the 
least  regard  for  truth,  or  the  slightest  knowledge  of  the  intercourse  between  the 
Indian  and  the  white  man,  from  the  time  this  continent  was  first  discovered." 
What  the  governor  had  said  thus  far  had  been  interpreted  by  Barron,  the  inter 
preter  to  the  Shawnees,  and  he  was  about  interpreting  it  to  the  Miamis  and  Potta- 
watomies,  who  formed  part  of  the  cavalcade,  when  Tecumseh,  addressing  the  in 
terpreter  in  Shawnee,  said,  "  he  lies!"  Barron,  who  had,  as  all  subordinates  (es 
pecially  in  the  Indian  department)  have,  a  great  reverence  and  respect  for  the 
''powers  that  be,"  commenced  interpreting  the  language  of  Tecumseh  to  the 
governor,  but  not  exactly  in  the  terms  made  use  of,  when  Tecumseh,  who  under 
stood  but  little  English,  perceived  from  his  embarrassment  and  awkwardness,  that 
he  was  not  giving  his  words,  interrupted  him  and  again  addressing  him  in  Shaw- 
nee,  said:  "No,  no;  tell  him  he  lies.'1  The  gutteral  assent  of  his  party  showed 
they  coincided  with  their  chief's  opinion.  Gen.  Gibson,  secretary  of  the  territory, 
who  understood  Shawnee,  had  not  been  an  inattentive  spectator  of  the  scene,  and 
understanding  the  import  of  the  language  made  use  of,  and  from  the  excited  state 
of  Tecumseh  and  his  party,  was  apprehensive  of  violence,  made  a  signal  to  the 
troops  in  attendance  to  shoulder  their  arms  and  advance.  They  did  so.  The 
speech  of  Tecumseh  was  literally  translated  to  the  governor.  He  directed  Barron 
to  say  to  him,  "he  would  hold  no  further  council  with  him"  and  the  meeting  broke 
up. 

One  can  hardly  imagine  a  more  exciting  scene — one  which  would  be  a  finer  sub 
ject  for  an  "  historical  painting,"  to  adorn  the  rotunda  of  the  capitol,  around  which 
not  a  single  picture  commemorative  of  western  history  is  to  be  found.  On  the 
succeeding  day,  Tecumseh  requested  another  interview  with  the  governor,  which 
was  granted  on  condition  that  he  should  make  an  apology  to  the  governor  for  his 
language  the  day  before.  This  he  made  through  the  interpreter.  Measures  for 
defense  and  protection  were  however  taken,  lest  there  should  be  another  outbreak. 
Two  companies  of  militia  were  ordered  from  the  country,  and  the  one  in  town 
added  to  them,  while  the  governor  and  his  friends  went  into  council  fully  armed 
and  prepared  for  any  contingency.  The  conduct  of  Tecumseh  upon  this  occasion 
was  entirely  different  from  that  of  the  day  before.  Firm  and  intrepid,  showing 
not  the  slightest  fear  or  alarm,  surrounded  as  he  was  with  the  military  force  quad 
rupling  his  own,  he  preserved  the  utmost  composure  and  equanimity.  No  one 
could  have  discerned  from  his  looks,  although  he  must  have  fully  understood  the 
object  of  calling  in  the  troops,  that  he  was  in  the  slightest  degree  disconcerted. 
He  was  cautious  in  his  bearing,  dignified  in  his  manner,  and  no  one  from  observ- 


INDIANA. 


239 


ing  him  would  for  a  moment  have  supposed  he  was  the  principal  actor  in  the 
thrilling  scene  of  the  previous  day. 

In  the  interval  between  the  sessions  of  the  first  and  second  council,  Tecumseh 
had  told  Barren,  the  interpreter,  "  that  he  had  been  informed  by  the  whites,  that 
the  people  of  the  territory  were  almost  equally  divided,  half  in  favor  of  Tecumseh, 
and  the  other  a4bering  to  the  governor."  The  same  statement  he  made  in  council. 
He  said  "  that  two  Americans  had  made  him  a  visit,  one  in  the  course  of  the  pre 
ceding  winter,  the  other  lately,  and  informed  him  that  Governor  Harrison  had  pur 
chased  land  from  the  Indians  without  any  authority  from  the  government,  and  that 
one  half  of  the  people  were  opposed  to  the  purchase.  He  also  told  the  governor 
that  he,  Harrison,  had  but  two  years  more  to  remain  in  office,  and  if  he,  Tecumseh, 
could  prevail  upon  the  Indians  who  sold  the  lands  not  to  receive  their  annuities 
for  that  time,  that  when  the  governor  was  displaced,  as  he  would  be,  and  a  good 
man  appointed  as  his  successor,  he  would  restore  to  the  Indians  all  the  lands  pur 
chased  from  them."  After  Tecumseh  had  concluded  his  speech,  a  Wyandot,  a 
Kickapoo,  a  Pottawatomie,  an  Ottowa,  and  a  Winnebago  chief,  severally  spoke,  and 
declared  that  their  tribes  had  entered  into  the  "  Shawnee  Confederacy,"  and  would 
support  the  principles  laid  down  by  Tecumseh,  whom  they  had  appointed  their 
leader. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  council,  the  governor  informed  Tecumseh  "  that  he 
would  immediately  transmit  his  speech  to  the  president,  and  as  soon  as  his  answer 
was  received  would  send  it  to  him;  but  a&  a  person  had  been  appointed  to  run  the 
boundary  line  of  the  new  purchase,  he  wished  to  know  whether  there  would  be 
danger  in  his  proceeding  to  run  the  line."  Tecumseh  replied,  "that  he  and  his 
allies  were  determined  that  the  old  boundary  line  should  continue,  and  that  if  the 
whites  crossed  it,  it  would  be  at  their  peril."  The  governor  replied,  "that  since 
Tecumseh  had  been  thus  candid  in  stating  his  determination,  he  would  be  equally 
so  with  him.  The  president,  he  was  convinced,  would  never  allow  that  the  lands 
on  the  Wabash  were  the  property  of  any  other  tribes  than  those  who  had  occupied 
them,  and  lived  on  them  since  the  white  people  came  to  America.  And  as  the  title 
to  the  lands  lately  purchased  was  derived  from  those  tribes  by  fair  purchase,  he 
might  rest  assured  that  the  right  of  the  United  States  would  be  supported  by  the 
sword." 

"So  be  it,"  was  the  stern  and  haughty  reply  of  the  "Shawnee  chieftain,"  as  he 
and  his  braves  took  leave  of  the  governor  and  wended  their  way  in  Indian  file  to 
their  camping  ground.  And  thus  ended  the  last  conference  on  earth  between  the 
chivalrous  and  gallant  Tecumseh,  the  Shawnee  chief,  and  he  who  since  the  period 
alluded  to  has  ruled  the  destinies  of  the  nation  as  its  chief  magistrate.  The  bones 
of  the  first  lie  bleaching  on  the  battle-field  of  the  Thames — those  of  the  last  are 
deposited  in  the  mausoleum  that  covers  them  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio. 


INDIANAPOLIS,  the  capital  of  Indiana,  and  seat  of  justice  for  Marion 
county,  is  on  the  west  fork  of  White  River,  at  the  crossing  of  the  National 
Road,  109  miles  N.W.  from  Cincinnati,  86  N.N.W.  from  Madison,  on  the 
Ohio,  and  573  W.  by  N.  from  Washington.  The  city  is  located  on  a  fertile 
and  extensive  plain,  two  miles  N.W.  of  the  geographical  center  of  the  state, 
which  was  formerly  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  timber.  The  original  town 
plat  was  a  mile  square,  but  it  has  extended  itself  on  all  sides.  Washington- 
street  through  which  the  National  Road  passes,  the  principal  street  in  the  city,  is 
120  feet  wide,  Circle-street  80  feet,  the  others  90  feet.  On  the  1st  of  Jan., 
1825,  the  public  offices  of  the  state  were  removed  from  Corydon,  the  former 
capital,  to  Indianapolis,  and  the  seat  of  government  established  here ;  but 
the  legislature  held  its  sessions  in  the  county  court  house,  until  Dec.,  1834, 
when  the  state  house  was  completed.  This  showy  structure,  180  feet  long 
by  80  wide,  is  on  the  model  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  and  was  built  at  a 
cost  of  about  $60,000. 


240  INDIANA. 

Indianapolis  is  one  of  the  greatest  railroad  centers  in  the  world,  nearly 
one  hundred  different  trains  pass  in  and  out  of  the  city  daily,  and  from  3,000 
to  5,000  persons  visit  the  place  in  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  stated  that  the 
citizens  of  80  of  the  91  counties  in  the  state,  can  come  to  Indianapolis,  attend 


til* 


View  of  the  State  House,  from  Washington-street,  Indianapolis. 

to  business,  and  return  the  same  day.  The  completion  of  the  Madison  and 
Indianapolis  Railroad  gave  a  great  impetus  to  the  growth  of  the  place  :  then 
the  population  was  about  4,000,  in  1860,  18,612. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  broad,  laid  out  at  right  angles,  well  shaded  and 
adorned  with  a  number  of  very  superior  buildings.  The  benevolent  institu 
tions  of  the  state,  for  the  insane,  deaf  and  dumb,  and  the  blind,  are  located 
at  this  place,  and  are  an  ornament  to  the  city  and  state.  The  city  has  16 
churches,  a  system  of  free  graded  schools, and  is  the  seat  of  the  North-west 
ern  Christian  University,  a  nourishing  institution  under  the  patronage  of 
the  Christian  Church.  The  university  building  is  an  elegant  edifice  in  the 
Gothic  style. 

The  following  historical  items  are  extracted  from  Howard's  Historical 
Sketch  of  Indianapolis,  in  the  city  directory  for  1857 : 

In  1818,  Dr.  Douglass  ascended  White  River  from  the  lower  counties,  tarrying 
at  the  bluffs  for  a  short  time,  and  Col.  James  Paxton  descended  it  from  its  head 
waters,  reaching  this  place  in  January  or  February,  1819.  He  again  returned  in 
1820,  and  made  some  preparations  for  settlement,  but  never  completed  them.  The 
honor  due  to  the  'first  settler,'  belongs  to  John  Pogue,  who  came  from  White 
water  and  settled  here  on  the  2d  day  of  March,  1819.  His  cabin  stood  by  a  large 
spring,  close  to  the  east  bank  of  '  Pogue' s  Run,'  near  the  present  residence  of  W. 
P.  Noble.  Its  ruins  were  visible  until  within  a  few  years,  and  perhaps  exist  at 
this  time.  Pogue  was  killed  by  the  Indians  in  April,  1821.  His  horses  were 
missing  one  morning  in  that  month,  and  as  some  disturbance  had  been  heard 
among  them  during  the  night,  he  concluded  the  Indians  had  stolen  them,  and 
armed  himself  for  pursuit.  When  last  seen  he  was  near  the  Indian  camp,  and  as 
his  horses  and  clothes  were  afterward  seen  in  their  possession,  little  doubt  re- 


INDIANA. 


241 


mained  as  to  his  fate.  His  death  greatly  excited  the  settlers,  but  their  numerical 
weakness  prevented  an  effort  to  avenge  it.  The  little  stream  which  once  pursued 
a  very  torturous  course  through  the  south-east  part  of  the  city,  alarming  the  few 
inhabitants  of  that  section  by  its  high  floods,  but  which  is  now  so  changed  that  its 
old  character  is  utterly  lost,  was  named  after  Pogue,  and  will  be  a  memorial  of 
him  as  '  the  first  settler '  of  Indianapolis. 


Main  Passenger  Railroad  Station,  Union  Depot,  Indianapolis. 

Showing  the  appearance  of  the  Station  as  it  is  entered  from  the  west. 

In  February,  1820,  John  and  James  McCormick  built  a  cabin  near  the  present 
river  bridge.  In  the  early  part  of  March,  John  Maxwell  and  John  Cowen  built 
cabins  in  the  north-west  corner  of  the  donation,  near  the  Michigan  road,  Fall 
creek  bridge.  In  April,  1821,  Mr.  Maxwell  was  appointed  a  justice  of  the  peace 
by  Gov.  Jennings,  and  was  the  first  judicial  officer  in  '  the  New  Purchase.'  He 
retained  the  office  until  June,  and  then  resigned.  The  citizens  held  an  informal 
election,  and  selected  James  Mcllvaine,  who  was  thereupon  appointed  a  justice  by 
Gov.  Jennings,  in  Oct.,  1821. 

In  the  latter  part  of  March,  and  in  April  and  May  of  1820,  a  number  of  emi 
grants  arrived,  and  at  the  end  of  the  latter  month  there  were  15  families  on  the 
donation.  Among  them  were  Messrs.  Davis,  Bainhill,  Corbley,  Wilson,  Van  Blari- 
cum  and  Harding.  Emigrants  now  began  to  turn  their  faces  toward  the  infant 
settlement,  and  it  slowly  and  steadily  increased  for  a  year  afterward. 

The  eagerness  of  the  settlers  to  appropriate  lands  in  the  New  Purchase,  found 
its  counterpart  in  the  action  of  the  state,  concerning  the  location  of  the  new  seat 
of  government.  The  act  of  Congress,  of  April  19,  1816,  authorizing  the  formation 
of  a  state  government,  donated  four  sections  of  the  unsold  public  lands  to  the 
state,  for  a  permanent  seat  of  government,  giving  the  privilege  of  selection.  The 
subject  was  considered  immediately  after  the  treaty  at  St.  Marys,  and  on  the  llth 
of  January,  1820,  the  legislature,  by  law,  appointed  George  Hunt,  John  Conner, 
John  Gilliland,  Stephen  Ludlow,  Joseph  Bartholomew,  John  Tipton,  Jesse  B.  Dun 
ham,  Frederick  Rapp,  Win.  Prince,  and  Thomas  Emerson,  commissioners  to  select 
a  location  for  a  permanent  seat  of  government.  *  *  *  The  present  site  was  selected, 
which  gave  the  place  instant  reputation,  and  in  the  spring,  and  summer,  and  fall 
of  1819,  it  rapidly  increased  in  population.  Morris  Morris,  Dr.  S.  G.  Mitchell,  J. 
and  J.  Given,  Wm.  Reagan,  M.  Nowland,  J.  M.  Ray,  James  Blake,  Nathaniel  Cox, 
Thomas  A»derson,  John  Hawkins,  Dr.  Dunlap,  David  Wood,  D.  Yandes,  Col.  Rus 
sell,  N.  M.  Clearty,  Dr.  Coe,  D.  Maguire,  and  many  others  arrived,  and  the  cabins 

16 


242  INDIANA. 

rapidly  increased  along  the  river  bank.  On  January  6,  1821,  the  legislature  con 
firmed  the  selection  of  the  site  and  named  it  Indianapolis. 

The  settlement  afterward  moved  east,  the  unparalleled  sickness  of  1821  con 
vincing  the  settlers  that  a  residence  away  from  the  river  was  the  best  for  them.  A 
fine  throve  of  tall  straight  sugar  trees  stood  on  the  'Governor's  Circle.'  On  Sun 
days  the  early  settlers  assembled  there  to  hear  preaching  by  Rev.  John  McClung. 
They  sat  on  the  logs  and  grass  about  him  in  Indian  style.  This  gentleman  was 
probably  flie  first  preacher  in  the  place,  and  preached  the  first  sermon  on  this  spot 
in  the  summer  or  fall  of  1821.  Other  authorities  say  that  the  first  sermon  was 
preached  this  year  where  the  state  house  now  stands,  by  Rev.  Risen  Hammond. 

Calvin  Fletcher,  Esq.,  who  now  lives  just  north  of  the  city,  was  then  the  only 
attorney-at-law  in  the  new  settlement,  and  the  ultimate  judge  in  all  knotty  cases. 
There  was  no  jail  nearer  than  Connersville,  and  the  culprit  sentenced  to  imprison 
ment,  had  to  be  conveyed  by  the  constable  and  his  posse,  on  horseback  through 
the  woods  to  that  place.  This  involved  much  time,  trouble  and  expense,  and  the 
shorter  plan  was  afterward  adopted  to  scare  them  away.  An  instance  occurred  on 
Christmas  day,  1821.  Four  Kentucky  boatmen,  who  had  'whipped  their  weight 
in  wild-cats,'  came  from  'the  bluffs'  to  'Naples'  (as  they  called  the  town),  to  have 
a  jolly  Christmas  spree.  The  'spree'  began  early,  and  the  settlers  were  aroused 
before  the  dawn,  by  a  terrible  racket  at  Daniel  Larken's  grocery.  A  hasty  recon- 
noissance  revealed  the  four  heroes  busily  engaged  in  the  laudable  work  of  '  taking 
it  down.'  A  request  to  desist  provoked  strong  expletives,  attended  by  a  display  of 
large  knives,  which  demonstration  caused  the  citizens  to  '  retire '  to  consult.  They 
were  interested  in  the  grocery,  and  besides  that,  such  lawless  proceedings  could 
not  be  tolerated.  They  therefore  determined  to  conquer  at  all  hazards.  James 
Blake  volunteered  to  grapple  the  ring  leader,  a  man  of  herculean  size  and  strength, 
if  the  rest  would  take  the  three  others.  The  attack  was  made  at  once,  the  party 
conquered,  and  marched  under  guard  through  the  woods  to  Justice  Mcllvaine's 
cabin.  They  were  tried  and  heavily  fined,  and  in  default  of  payment  ordered  to 
jail.  They  could  not  pay,  and  it  was  deemed  impossible  to  take  them  through  the 
woods  to  Connersville  at  that  season  of  the  year.  A  guard  was,  therefore,  placed 
over  them,  with  the  requisite  instructions,  and  during  the  night  the  doughty  he 
roes  escaped  to  more  congenial  climes. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  summer  [1821],  and  during  the  fall,  epidemic,  remittent, 
and  intermittent  fevers  and  agues  assailed  the  people,  and  scarcely  a  person  Avas 
left  untouched.  Although  several  hundred  cases  occurred,  not  more  than  five  ter 
minated  fatally. 

After  escaping  death  by  disease,  the  people  were  threatened  with  starvation. 
In  consequence  of  sickness,  the  influx  of  people  and  the  small  amount  of  grain 
raised,  the  supply  of  provisions  in  the  settlement  became  very  meager  in  the  fall 
and  winter  of  1821.  No  roads  had  been  opened  to  the  town,  and  all  goods  and 
provisions  had  to  be  packed  on  horseback,  50  or  60  miles  through  the  woods,  or 
brought  up  the  river  in  keel  boats.  The  latter  method  was  adopted  in  1822,  and 
the  arrival  of  each  boat  was  greeted  by  a  concourse  of  '  the  whole  people,'  and  duly 
announced  in  the 'Indianapolis  Gazette.'  Coffee  was  worth  50  cents  a  pound, 
tea,  $2  00 ;  corn,  $1  00  per  bushel ;  flour,  $4  00  to  $5  00  per  hundred ;  coarse 
muslin,  45  cents  per  yard,  and  other  goods  in  proportion.  To  relieve  the  people 
and  prevent  starvation,  flour  and  other  articles  were  brought  from  the  White 
water  Valley,  and  corn  was  purchased  at  the  Indian  villages  up  the  river  and 
boated  down  to  the  town.  The  nearest  mill  was  Goodlandin  on  Whitewater  River, 
and  the  arrival  of  a  cargo  of  meal  and  flour,  or  of  other  articles  from  that  quarter, 
produced  general  joy  in  the  settlement.  The  settlers  generously  relieved  each 
other's  distress  in  this  case,  as  in  the  preceding  sickness,  and  many  pecks  of  meal, 
sacks  of  flour,  parcels  of  fish,  meat,  and  other  articles  of  food,  were  distributed  to 
some  more  destitute  neighbor. 

After  the  October  sale  of  lots,  the  weather,  which,  during  the  summer,  had  been 
very  wet  and  changeable,  and  in  the  fall  cold  and  gloomy,  changed,  and  a  long  and 
beautiful  Indian  summer  began.  The  sick  quickly  recovered  their  health,  strength 
and  spirits.  The  settlement  rapidly  tended  to  the  east,  for  the  sickness  had  been 
worse  near  the  river,  and  the  new  coiners  and  older  settlers  built  their  cabins 


INDIANA. 


2-n 


aloa.2;  "Washington  street  much  farther  from  it  than  before.  The  dreary  appear 
ance  of  tlie  settlement  during  the  fall,  no  longer  clung  to  it,  and  notwithstanding 
the  threatened  famine,  the  hopes  of  the  settlers  rose  higher  than  ever.  Washing 
ton-street  was  the  first  street  cleared,  and  during  the  fall  of  1821,  was  completely 
blocked  up  by  felled  trees  and  prickly  ash  bushes.  John  Hawkins  built  a  large 
log  tavern  where  the  Capitol  House  now  stands,  using  logs  cut  from  the  site  and 
adjoining  street  in  its  erection.  The  main  settlement  was  still  west  of  the  canal, 
near  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  Carlisle  House-.  A  group  of  cabins  in  this  vi 
cinity,  was  dignified  by  '  Wilmot's  Row,'  from  a  man  of  that  name  who  kept  a  store 
in  the  vicinity,  and  who  was  one  of  the  first  merchants  of  the  place.  The  first 
merchant  was  a  man  named  Nicholas  Shaffer.  He  had  a  little  store  on  the  high 
ground,  south  of  Pogue's  Run,  commencing  in  the  spring  of  1821.  He  was  the 
first  person  who  died  on  the  donation.  He  died  in  May  or  June,  1821,  and  was 
buried  in  Pogue's  Run  Valley,  near  the  present  site  of  the  sixth  ward  school 
house. 

The  first  marriage,  the  first  birth,  and  the  first  death,  occurred  in  1821.  The 
first  wedding  was  between  Miss  Reagan  and  Jeremiah  Johnson.  He  walked  to 
Connersville  and  back,  120  miles,  for  his  marriage  license;  and  others  did  the 

same  until  the  county  was  organized The  first  Presbyterian  minister  was 

O.  P.  Gaines,  who  came  in  Aug.  1821 :  the  first  Baptist  minister  was  John  Water, 
who  came  in  the  fall  of  1821  :  the  first  Methodist  minister  was  James  Scott,  who 
came  in  Oct.  1822.  The  first  physician  was  Isaac  Coe,  who  came  in  1821.  The 
first  attorney  was  Calvin  Fletcher,  who  came  in  Sept.,  1821.  Joseph  C.  Reed,  who 
came  in  1821,  was  the  first  school  teacher :  the  first  school  house  stood  just  north 
of  the  State  Bank,  near  a  large  pond.  The  first  market  house  was  built  in  1822, 
in  the  maple  grove  on  the  Governor's  Circle.  The  first  brick  house  was  built  in 
1822,  by  John  Johnson,  on  the  lot  east  of  Robert's  Chapel:  the  first  frame  house 
V'as  built  by  James  Blake,  in  1821-2,  on  the  lot  east  of  the  Masonic  Hall,  it  was 

also  the  first  plastered  house On  Jan.  28,  1822,  the  first  number  of  the 

'  Indiana  Gazette '  was  published  in  a  cabin  south-east  of  the  Carlisle  House,  and  west 
of  the  canal.  This  paper,  the  first  in  the  town  or  in  the  'New  Purchase,'  was  edited 
arid  printed  by  George  Smith  and  Nathaniel  Botton.  In  1823,  the  Presb}rterians 
erected  the  first  church  on  the  lot  just  north  of  Maj.  A.  F.  Morrison's  residence. 
It  cost,  with  the  lot,  about  $1,200,  and  was  regarded  as  a  very  fine  and  expensive 
one  for  the  town.  It  now  forms  part  of  a  carriage  manufactory. 


The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  grave-yard 
in  this  place: 

NOAH  NOBLE,  born  in  Virginia,  Jan.  15,  A.  D.,  1794.  Governor  of  Indiana  from  1831  to 
1837.  Died  at  Indianapolis  Feb.  A.  D.  1844. 

ANDREW  KENNEDY,  late  a  Representative  to  Congress  from  Indiana,  born  July  24,  1810. 
Died  Dec.  31,  1847.  This  stone  is  erected  to  his  memory  by  his  friends,  in  token  of  their 
love  of  the  man,  and  their  respect  for  his  ability  and  integrity  as  a  Statesman. 


JAMES  WHITCOMB,  a  native  of  Vermont,  Born  Dec.  1795,  brought  to  Ohio  when  11  years 
old.  SELF-TAUGHT,  commenced  practice  of  Law  1822,  at  Bloomington,  Indiana,  was  State 
and  Circuit  Attorney  ;  State  Senator  ;  Commissioner  of  General  Land  Office  ;  twice  Governor 
of  Indiana.  Died  Oct.  1852,  at  the  City  of  New  York,  while  Senator  of  the  United  States. 
Eminent  in  learning,  Devoted  to  Country  and  God. 


ISAAC  Cos,  M.D.,  born  July  25,  1782.  died  July  30, 1855,  the  founder  of  Sabbath  Schools 
in  Indianapolis. 

TERRE  HAUTE,  city,  and  the  county  seat  for  Vigo  county,  is  situated  on 
the  left  or  eastern  bank  of  the  Wabash  River,  73  miles  west  of  Indianapolis; 
109  N.  from  Evansville;  69  N.  from  Vincennes,  and  187  E.  from  St.  Louis 


244 


INDIANA. 


The  town  site  is  elevated  about  60  feet  above  low  water,  and  somewhat  above 
the  contiguous  prairie  which  is  about  10  miles  long  and  two  wide.  It  is  on 
the  line  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal.  The  National  Road  here  crosses 
the  river  on  a  fine  bridge.  Being  situated  in  a  fertile  district,  having  steam 
boat  and  railroad  communication  in  various  directions.  Terre  Haute  is  the 


Court  House  and  other  baildings,  Terre  Haute. 

As  seen  from  the  north-west  corner  of  the  Public  Square.  The  State  Bank  and  the  spire  of  the  Metho 
dist  Church  appear  on  the  right;  th"  Mayor's  office,  or  Town  Hall,  and  the  tower  of  the  Universalist 
Church  on  the  left.  A  grove  of  Locust  trees  formerly  surrounded  the  Court  House. 

center  of  large  business  operations,  among  which  pork  packing  is  extensively 
carried  on.  Several  fine  educational  establishments  are  also  in  operation, 
among  which  are  two  female  colleges.  In  the  vicinity,  some  three  or  four 
miles  distant,  is  the  nunnery  and  highly  popular  Catholic  Female  College, 
named  "  St.  Mary  of  the  Woods."  Great  taste  is  displayed  here  in  the 
grounds,  shrubbery  and  lawns  surrounding  the  private  dwellings.  .  Its  early 
settlers  made  their  homes  attractive  by  a  generous  attention  to  the  planting 
of  shade  trees  on  the  streets,  and  throughout  the  public  grounds. 

Terre  Haute  offers  great  inducements  for  all  kinds  of  manufacturing  busi 
ness;  fuel  and  labor  are  cheap  and  abundant.  It  is  surrounded  by  extensive 
coal  fields;  good  quarries  of  building  stone  lie  near;  iron  ores  of  superior 
quality  are  in  close  proximity,  and  with  every  facility  for  transportation  by 
canal,  river  and  railroad.  The  city  contains  10  churches,  and  about  10,000 
inhabitants. 

Terre  Haute  (French  words  for  high  land),  was  founded  in  1816;  in  1830 
it  contained  600  inhabitants:  in  1840,  about  2,000.  The  first  settlement 
was  made  on  the  river  bank.  Fort  Harrison  was  situated  about  three  miles 
to  the  north  :  and  in  the  war  of  1812,  was  successfully  defended  by  Capt. 
Zachary  Taylor,  from  an  attack  by  the  Indians  as  related  on  page  1017. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  grave  yard 
at  this  place : 

WILLIAM  C.  LINTON,  born  in  1795,  died  Jan.  31,  1835.     He  was  one  of  the  earliest  settlers 


INDIANA. 


245 


of  Terra  Haute,  one  of  the  most  successful  merchants.  The  Friend  and  Patron  of  the  young-. 
Hundreds  yet  survive  to  revere  his  memory,  and  their  children  rise  up  to  call  it  blessed! 
The  impress  of  his  genius  and  his  enterprise,  will  long  survive  all  that  is  mortal  of  the  up 
right  citizen,  the  kind  friend  and  the  public  benefactor. 

Here  lie  the  remains  of  THOMAS  H.  BLAKE,  born  in  Calvert  Co.,  Md.,  July  25,  1792,  died 
in  Cincinnati  Nov.  28,  1849.  He  was  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  of  this  place;  had 'been 
Presiding  Judge  of  a  circuit;  a  Representative  in  Congress;  Commissioner  of  the  General 
Land  Office  ;  filled  other  offices  of  responsibility  under  the  State  and  General  Governments 
and  was,  at  the  time  of  his  death,  the  President  Trustee  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal! 
For  honor,  frankness,  and  integrity,  as  a  firm  and  generous  friend,  he  was  extensively 
known,  and  died  without  reproach  upon  his  name,  leaving  a  memory  for  noble  manly  vir 
tues  that  will  long  be  cherished. 


RICHMOND,  in  Wayne  county,  is  situated  4  miles  from  the  eastern  bound 
ary  of  the  state,  on  the  east  fork  of  Whitewater  River,  where  it  is  crossed 

by  the  National  Road  and  Cen 
tral  Railroad,  68  miles  from  In 
dianapolis,  40  from  Dayton,  0., 
and  64  N.N.W.  from  Cincin 
nati.  It  is  the  center  of  an  ac 
tive  trade,  possesses  railroad 
communications  in  various  di 
rections,  and  has  flourishing 
manufactories  of  cotton,  wool, 
flour,  iron,  paper,  etc.,  for  which 
the  river  affords  abundant  mo 
tive  power.  In  the  vicinity  are 
22  flouring;  mills  and  24  saw 
mills.  A  large  number  of  agri 
cultural  implements  are  manu 
factured  here.  The  principal 
street  is  the  old  National  Road, 
running  east  and  west,  which  is 
thickly  built  upon  for  about  a 
mile.  There  is  a  fine  bridge 
erected  here,  with  stone  abut 
ments,  over  which  the  National  Road  passes,  containing  tablets  or  monu 
ments  erected  by  the  citizens,  on  which  are  engraved  the  names  of  the  con 
tractors  and  builders  of  the  bridge.  The  Friends  Boarding  School,  about  a 
mile  from  the  post-office,  is  the  principal  literary  institution,  and  has  about 
100  students  of  both  sexes.  Population  about  7,000. 

The  first  emigrants  to  the  neighborhood  were  principally  from  Kentucky,  North 
Carolina,  and  Ohio.  Richmond  was  laid  out  in  1816,  and  the  lands  patented  to 
John  Smith  and  Jeremiah  Cox.  In  1818,  Ezra  Boswell,  Thomas  Swain,  Robert 
Morrison,  and  John  McLane  were  elected  trustees,  the  number  of  voters  at  the 
time  being  twenty-four.  The  town  was  first  called  Smithfield,  from  the  name  of 
the  proprietor. 

Until  1817,  the  early  emigrants  procured  their  flour  at  Germantown,  or  some 
other  distant  settlement  in  the  Miami  valley.  In  the  year  named  a  "  tub  mill "  was 
erected  by  Jeremiah  Cox,  where  the  present  oil  mill  stands.  The  first  opening  in 
the  forest  was  made  by  Woodkirk,  on  the  land  now  owned  by  C.  W.  Starr,  near 
where  J.  Cox  built  his  brick  house.  The  making  of  the  National  Road  through 
Richmond,  in  1828,  gave  an  impulse  to  the  place.  Dr.  J.  T.  Plummer,  in  his  His 
torical  Sketch  of  Richmond,  states,  "  1  hold  in  distinct  remembrance  the  old  lug 
meeting  house  of  1823,  standing  near  the  site  of  the  present  large  brick  one.  1  re- 


FRIENDS'  BOARPING  SCHOOL, 


246  INDIANA. 

member  its  leaky  roof,  letting  the  rain  through  upon  the  slab  benches  with  throe 
pair  of  legs  and  no  backs;  its  charcoal  fires,  kept  in  sugar  kettles  (for  as  yet  no 
stoves  were  procured),  and  the  toes  pinched  with  cold  of  the  young  who  sat  re 
mote  from  the  kettles,"  etc. 

The  first  post  office  was  established  in  1818,  Robert  Morrison  being  the  first  post 
master.  The  first  tavern  stood  at  the  north-east  corner  of  Main  and  Pearl  streets, 
with  the  sign  of  a  green  tree :  it  was  kept  by  Jonathan  Bayles.  The  first  lawyer, 
says  Dr.  Plurnmer,  •'  was  one  Hardy,  who  boarded  at  Ephraim  Lacey's  tavern,  and 
walked  the  pavement  (such  as  it  was)  with  his  thumbs  stuck  in  the  arm  holes  of 
his  vest,  and  his  head  pompously  thrown  back  spouting  the  phrase  'Qui  facit  per 
alium,  facit  per  se:'  but  still  no  business  came,  and  he  concluded  to  go  further 
south  where  merit  was  better  rewarded."  A  Dr.  Cushman  came  here  in  1820,  who 
afterward  returned  to  Fort  Wayne,  where  he  was  an  associate  judge.  He  opened 
a  distillery  at  the  south  part  of  the  town,  on  the  side  of  the  hill  on  Front-street, 
near  a  spring.  A  large  portion  of  the  inhabitants  at  that  time  being  Friends  (com 
monly  called  Quakers),  this  enterprise  did  not  succeed,  and  the  establishment 
passed  into  the  hands  of  Dr.  Ithamer  Warner,  who  also  soon  abandoned  it,  and  it 
went  down  to  rise  no  more.  Dr.  Warner  was  the  principal  physician  for  many 
years.  He  came  into  the  county  about  1815,  and  died  in  March,  1835.  Dr.  Thos. 
Carroll,  now  of  Cincinnati,  settled  in  Richmond  in  1819,  and  left  in  1823;  he  was 
probably  the  first  regular  physician  in  Richmond. 

The  first  newspaper  published  in  Richmond  was  the  Richmond  Weekly  Intelli- 
qencer.  This  was  in  1821.  The  printing  office  was  on  Front-street;  the  editor 
was  Elijah  Lacy.  The  second  was  the  PulUc  Ledger,  first  issued  in  1824;  the 
Richmond  Palladium  was  first  issued  in  1831.  The  Jeffersonian  was  established 
in  1836,  by  a  democratic  association,  under  the  title  of  "  Hickory  Club,"  and  was 
principally  edited  by  S.  E.  Perkins,  now  a  judge  of  the  supreme  court.  The  In 
diana  Farmer  was  'commenced  in  1851 :  the  Broad  Axe  of  Freedom  was  first 
issued  by  .Jamison  &  Johnson,  in  1855.  The  Richmond  Library  was  incorporated 
and  established  in  1826.  In  1853  a  railroad  communication  was  opened  to  Cin 
cinnati,  by  way  of  Dayton. 

Most  of  the 'earliest  residents  of  Wayne  county,  were  members  of  the  Society 
of  Friends.  The  first  meeting  of  the  society  was  held  in  1807,  in  a  log  building 
vacated  by  Jeremiah  Cox.  Jesse  Bond,  John  Morrow  and  Win.  Williams  were 
among  their  earliest  ministers.  The  next  religious  society  was  the  Methodist  Epis 
copal,  who  held  their  first  meeting  in  1819,  in  a  small  log  house  on  Front-street. 
Daniel  Fraley  was,  perhaps,  the  first  Methodist  preacher  in  this  section,  .lohn  W. 
Sullivan  was  the  first  stationed  minister  in  Richmond.  The  first  Presbyterian 
church  was  established  in  1837,  by  T.  E.  Hughes  and  P.  H.  Gollidpy,  with  28 
members;  their  first  preacher  was  Charles  Sturdevant.  The  English  Evangelical 
Lutheran  congregation  was  organized  in  1853.  -  The  Catholic  church  was  organized 
in  1846.  St.  Paul's  Episcopal  church  was  organized  in  1838.  George  Fiske  was 
their  first  minister.  The  German  Evangelical  Lutheran  was  organized  in  1845. 
The  African  Methodist  Episcopal  church  was  organized  in  1836.  The  gas  works 
were  built  in  1855. 

EVANSVILLE,  the  county  seat  of  Vanderburgh  county,  is  situated  on  the 
hijih  northern  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  200  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the 
Mississippi,  200  miles  below  Louisville,  Ky.,  and  144  S.S.W.  of  Indianapo 
lis.  The  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  462  miles  in  extent,  the  longest  on  the 
continent,  terminates  here.  It  is  a  place  of  much  trade,  being  the  chief 
mart  oT  the  rich  valley  of  Green  River,  in  Kentucky.  The  annual  exports 
of  the  city  exceed  seven  millions  of  dollars  in  value,  of  which  pork,  lard 
jind  tobacco  are  the  principal  articles.  It  has  four  extensive  iron  founderies, 
several  large"  flour  mills,  a  brass  foundery,  and  upward  of  sixty  steam  engines 
jive  employed  in  the  various  manufactories.  The  Bodian  coal  mine,  about  a 
mile  from  the  court  house,  supplies  the  work-shops  with  fuel.  It  contains 
14  churches,  in  about  half  of  which  the  German  language  is  used.  The 


INDIANA. 


Marine  Hospital  >here  is  a  fine  building,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $75,000. 
lation  about  13,000. 


2-17 
Popu- 


Evansville  received  its  name  from  Robert  Morgan  Evans,  a  native  of  Virginia, 
who,  with  James  W.  Jones,  of  Kentucky,  and  Hugh  McGary,  were  the  three  orig 
inal  proprietors  of  the  place.  The  plat  of  the  city  was  laid  out  in  1836,  by  these 
proprietors,  and  was  originally  covered  by  a  dense  forest.  The  first  house  in 


South-western  view  of  Evansville. 

As  it  ap]»ars  from  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  Ohio  River.  The  side-walk  in  front  of  the  line  of  houses, 
seen  in  the  view,  is  21  inches  above  the  highest  rise  of  water  ever  known. 

Evansville  was  built  by  Hugh  McGary,  the  patentee  of  the  land.  It  was  a  log 
structure,  occupying  the  site  of  the  Pavilion  House,  shown  in  the  view;  the  second 
house  was  built  by  Jonathan  Robinson,  on  the  river  bank,  between  Mulberry  and 
Green-streets.  David  Hart,  of  Fayette  county,  Ky.,  Isaac  Blackford,  now  judne 
of  the  court  of  claims,  in  Washington,  and  Elisha  Harrison,  from  Ohio,  were  among 
the  first  settlers  of  the  place. 

The  first  school  house  was  erected,  in  1831,  by  joint  stock,  and  stood  directly  in 
the  rear  of  the  Washington  House,  opposite  the  court  house.  The  New  School 
Presbyterian  church,  now  standing,  was  erected  in  1832,  and  was  the  first  house 
of  worship  built  in  the  place.  It  was  used  at  first  as  a  kind  of  union  house,  where 
ministers  of  various  denominations  preached.  Rev.  Calvin  Butler,  a  Congrega 
tional  clergyman  from  the  east,  was  the  first  regular  preacher  who  occupied  the 
pulpit.  The  Freewill  Baptists,  in  or  about  1837,  erected  the  next  church  build 
ing;  Rev.  Benoni  Stinson  was  their  first  minister.  The  German  Lutheran  and 
Catholic  churches  were  established  at  or  about  the  same  period.  The  court  house 

was  erected  in  1856.     The  first  tavern  was  kept  by Wood,  on  Main,  between 

Second  and  Third-streets. 

The  city  limits  extend  to  Pigeon  creek,  the  village  of  Lamasco  being  included. 
The  name  La-mas-co  is  compounded  of  the  names  of  Law,  Me  Call  and  Scott,  the 
original  proprietors  of  the  tract  on  both  sides  of  Pigeon  creek.  The  village  was 
laid  out  in  1856,  and  the  Bodian  coal  mine  opened  the  same  year.  This  mine  re 
ceived  its  appellation  from  the  maiden  name  of  Mrs.  Kersteman,  the  wife  of  the 
superintendent.  It  is  opened  280  feet  below  the  surface,  about  200  feet  lower 
than  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  vein  is  5  feet  thick.  The  coal  is  delivered  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  city  at  ten  cents  per  bushel,  fixed  by  law  at  75  pounds  to  the 
bushel. 


248  INDIANA. 

NEW  HARMONY  is  a  village  of  about  800  inhabitants,  in  Posey  county,  in 
that  part  of  Indiana  called  "  the  Pocket"  It  stands  on  the  Wabash,  about 
1UO  miles  from  its  mouth,  following  its  meanders,  but  only  15  from  the  Ohio 
at  Mount  Vernon,  its  nearest  point,  and  the  south-westernmost  town  >f  the 
state.  The  place  has  acquired  a  wide  reputation 
from  two  socialistic  experiments  —  the  first  by  George 
Rapp,  of  Germany,  and  the  last  by  Robert  Owen, 
of  Scotland. 

The  Rappites,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  called, 
Harmonite*,  first  emigrated  from  Wirtemburg,  in 
Germany,  about  the  year  1803,  having  left  their 
country,  as  they  asserted,  on  account  of  persecution 
for  their  religious  opinions,  and  first  built  a  town 
in  western  Pennsylvania,  which  they  called  Har 
mony.  But  having  the  cultivation  of  the  grape 
very  much  at  heart,  which  did  not  appear  to  thrive 
as  well  as  they  wished,  they  sold  out  their  estab 
lishment  at  Harmony,  and  in  1814,  under  the 
guidance  of  their  pastor,  Rev.  George  Rapp,  moved 
KAPP'S  CHURCH.  to  tne  Wabash,  where  the  climate  was  supposed  to 

be  more  congenial  to  their  wishes.     There  they 

From  a  pencil  sketch,  made  ,  1,1         i  Pi     i      «i,  i  i-r»   i      MI  i  •    i 

about  the  year  1830,  by  Prof,  cleared  the  land,  built  a  beautiful  village,  which 
S«S^SiJXtmi5  thev  called  New  Harmony,  containing  about  150 
100  feet,  and  is  yet  standing,  houses,  planted  orchards  and  vineyards,  erected 

f  the  cupola. 


wilderness  blossom  like  the  rose."  According  to  their  system,  all  property 
was  held  in  common,  there  being  no  such  thing  known  to  them  as  an  indi 
vidual  owning  any.  After  remaining  some  eight  or  ten  years,  the  Rappites 
discovered  that  the  unhealthiness  of  this  then  new  country,  called  for  a 
change  of  climate,  so  they  beat  a  speedy  retreat.  The  society,  therefore,  re 
turned  to  Pennsylvania  in  1825,  and  selecting  a  site  on  the  Ohio,  18  miles 
below  Pittsburg,  cleared  the  land,  and  built  the  present  handsome  town  of 
Economy,  which  contains  some  500  inhabitants.  It  is  yet  a  thriving  com 
munity,  and  since  the  death  of  its  founder,  is  governed  by  nine  trustees. 
The  Duke  of  Saxe  Weimer,  who  visited  Economy  about  the  year  1826,  has 
Jeft  some  interesting  facts,  upon  the  peculiarities  -of  the  Rappites  : 

At  the  inn,  a  fine  large  frame  house,  we  were  received  by  Mr.  Rapp,  the  princi 
pal,  at  the  head  of  the  community.  He  is  a  gray-headed  and  venerable  old  man; 
most  of  the  members  emigrated  21  years  ago  from  Wirtemburg  along  with  him. 

The  elder  Rapp  is  a  large  man  of  70  years  ,oJd,  whose  powers  age  seems  not  to 
have  diminished  ;  his  hair  is  gray,  but  his  blue  -eyes,  overshadowed  by  strong 
brows,  are  full  of  life  and  fire.  Rapp's  system  is  nearly  the  same  as  Owen's  com 
munity  of  goods,  and  all  members  of  the  society  work  together  for  the  common  in 
terest,  by  which  the  welfare  of  each  individual  is  secured.  Rapp  does  not  hold 
his  society  together  by  these  hopes  alone,  but  also  by  the  tie  of  religion,  which  is 
entirely  wanting  in  Owen's  community;  and  results  declare  that  Rapp's  system  is 
the  better.  No  great  results  can  be  expected  from  Owen's  plan;  and  a  sight  of  it 
is  very  little  in  its  favor.  What  is  most  striking  and  wonderful  of  all  is,  that  so 
plain  'a  man  as  Rapp  can  so  successfully  bring  and  keep  together  a  society  of 
•nearly  700  persons,  who,  in  a  manner,  honor  him  as  a  prophet.  Equally  so  for 
.example  is  his  power  of  government,  which  can  suspend  the  intercourse  of  the 
sexes.  He  foun<l  that  the  society  was  becoming  too  numerous,  wherefore  the  mem 
bers  agreed  to  live  with  their  wives  as  sisters.  All  nearer  intercourse  is  forbidden, 
as  well  as  marriage;  both  are  discouraged.  However,  some  marriages  constantly 
occur,  and  children  are  born  every  year,  for  whom  there  is  provided  a  school  and 


INDIANA.  249 

a  teacher.  The  members  of  the  community  manifest  the  very  highest  degree  of 
veneration  for  the  elder  Rapp,  whom  they  address  and  treat  as  a  father.  Mr. 
Frederick  Rapp  is  a  large,  good-looking  personage,  of  40  years  of  age.  He  pos 
sesses  profound  mercantile  knowledge,  and  is  the  temporal,  as  his  father  is  tho 
spiritual  chief  of  the  community.  All  business  passes  through  his  hands ;  he  re 
presents  the  society,  which,  notwithstanding  the  change  in  the  name  of  residence, 
is  called  the  Harmony  Society,  in  all  their  dealings  with  the  world.  They  found 
that  the  farming  and  cattle  raising,  to  which  the  society  exclusively  attended  in 
both  their  former  places  of  residence,  were  not  sufficiently  productive  for  their  in 
dustry,  they  therefore  have  established  factories. 

The  warehouse  was  shown  to  us,  where  the  articles  made  here  for  sale  or  use 
are  preserved,  and  I  admired  the  excellence  of  all.  The  articles  for  the  use  of  the 
society  are  kept  by  themselves,  as  the  members  have  no  private  possessions,  and 
everything  is  in  common ;  so  must  they  in  relation  to  all  their  personal  wants  be 
supplied  from  the  common  stock.  The  clothing  and  food  they  make  use  of  is  of 
the  best  quality.  Of  the  latter,  flour,  salt  meat,  and  all  long  keeping  articles,  are 
served  out  monthly;  fresh  meat,  on  the  contrary,  and  whatever  spoils  readily,  is 
distributed  whenever  it  is  killed,  according  to  the  size  of  the  family,  etc.  As  every 
house  has  a  garden,  each  family  raises  its  own  vegetables,  and  some  poultry,  and 
each  family  has  its  own  bake  oven.  For  such  things  as  are  not  raised  in  Economy, 
there  is  a  store  provided,  from  which  the  members,  with  the  knowledge  of  the  di 
rectors,  may  purchase  what  is  necessary,  and  the  people  of  the  vicinity  may  also 
do  the  same. 

Mr.  Rapp  finally  conducted  us  into  the  factory  again,  and  said  that  the  girls  had 
especially  requested  this  visit,  that  I  might  hear  them  sing.  When  their  work  is 
done,  they  collect  in  one  of  the  factory  rooms,  to  the  number  of  60  or  70,  to  sing 
spiritual  and  other  songs.  They  have  a  peculiar  hymn  book,  containing  hymns 
from  the  Wirtemburg  psalm  book,  and  others  written  by  the  elder  Rapp.  A  chair 
was  placed  for  the  old  patriarch,  who  sat  amidst  the  girls,  and  they  commenced  a 
hymn  in  a  very  delightful  manner.  It  was  naturally  symphoniousand  exceedingly 
well  arranged.  The  girls  sang  four  pieces,  at  first  sacred,  but  afterward,  by  Mr. 
Rapp' s  desire,  of  a  gay  character.  With  real  emotion  did  I  witness  this  interest 
ing  scene.  The  factories  and  workshops  are  warmed  during  winter  by  means  of 
pipes  connected  with  the  steam-engine.  All  the  workmen,  and  especially  the  fe 
males,  had  very  healthy  complexions,  and  moved  me  deeply  by  the  warm-hearted 
friendliness  with  which  they  saluted  the  elder  Rapp.  I  was  also  much  gratified  to 
see  vessels  containing  fresh  sweet-smelling  flowers  standing  on  all  the  machines. 
The  neatness  which  universally  reigns  here  is  in  every  respect  worthy  of  praise. 

The  second  socialistic  experiment  here,  proved  less  successful  than  the 
first.  We  give  its  history  in  the  annexed  communication  from  a  corres 
pondent  familiar  with  the  details : 

In  1824,  the  village  of  the  Rappites,  including  20,000  acres  of  land,  was  pur 
chased  by  Mr.  Robert  Owen,  of  New  Lanark,  Scotland,  who,  after  a  most  success 
ful  experiment  in  ameliorating  the  physical  and  moral  condition  of  the  laboring 
classes  in  that  manufacturing  village,  believed  that  New  Harmony  would  be  a 
highly  suitable  place  for  testing  his  "  social  system,"  as  explained  in  his  "  New 
Views  of  Society."  As  soon,  therefore,  as  the  Harmonites  had  removed,  to  estab 
lish  themselves  at  Economy,  Pennsylvania,  he  gave  a  general  invitation  for  those 
favorable  to  the  community,  in  opposition  to  the  competitive  system,  to  give  its 
practicability  a  fair  trial  a,t  New  Harmony.  The  call  was  responded  to  by  about 
seven  or  eight  hundred  persons,  and  Mr.  Owen  was  also  joined  by  another  wealthy 
gentleman  from  Scotland,  Mr.  William  Maclure,  who  purchased  from  Mr.  Owen 
part  of  the  property ;  and  for  one  year  the  community  progressed,  in  some  respects, 
rather  favorably,  but  chiefly  at  their  expense,  under  the  name  of  "The  Prelimina 
ry  Society."  As  all  institutions,  however,  to  be  permanent,  must  be  self-sustain 
ing,  unless  largely  endowed,  the  above  society,  hoping  better  to  effect  the  desired 
object  by  a  division  into  departments  having  more  immediately  similar  views  and 
interests,  formed  agricultural,  educational,  and  other  similar  subdivisions,  or  com 
munities,  which  sustained  themselves,  at  the  furthest,  two  years  more;  being 


250  INDIANA. 

broken  up  partly  by  designing  individuals,  who  joined  the  society  only  from  selfish 
motives;  partly  also  from  inexperience  in  so  novel  an  experiment;  and  partly, 
doubtless,  from  the  difficulty  of  any  large  number  of  persons  ever  having  views 
sufficiently  similar  to  enable  them  to  co-operate  successfully  for  the  common  good. 

Since  that  social  experiment,  a  period  to  which  (although  a  failure  as  regards  its 
pecuniary  sustaining  power)  many  of  the  older  inhabitants  still  look  back  with 
pleasure,  as  a  promotive  of  benevolent,  unselfish  feeling,  the  houses,  lots  and  ad 
joining  lands  have  passed  into  the  hands  of  individuals ;  and  New  Harmony  pro 
gresses  gradually,  on  the  old  system,  being  a  quiet,  orderly  country  town,  geograph 
ically  out  of  the  great  commercial  thoroughfare. 

The  entire  surviving  family  of  the  late  Robert  Owen,  comprising  three  sons,  one 
daughter,  and  numerous  grandchildren,  still  resides  there.  The  eldest  son,  Robert 
Dale  Owen,  represented  the  first  district  in  congress,  and  has  since  been  minister 
to  Naples ;  the  second  son,  William,  died  there  some  years  since.  The  third  son, 
Dr.  D.  D.  Owen,  has  conducted  two  geological  surveys  for  the  United  States,  and 
is  state  geologist  for  three  western  states;  he  possesses,  in  New  Harmony,  one  of 
the  best  scientific  collections  in  the  west,  and  a  well-appointed  laboratory.  The 
fourth  son,  Dr.  Richard  Owen,  was  for  nearly  ten  years  professor  of  geology  in  the 
Western  Military  Institute  (latterly  the  literary  department  of  the  University  of 
Nashville,  Tennessee),  and  later  connected  with  the  geological  survey  of  Indiana. 
The  daughter,  Mrs.  Fauntleroy,  is  widow  of  the  late  R.  H.  Fauntleroy,  who  lost 
his  life  in  the  service  of  the  U.  S.  coast  survey. 

New  Harmony  was,  at  one  period,  the  home  of  various  distinguished  individu 
als,  who  united  in  the  social  experiment,  such  as :  Dr.  G.  Troost,  the  celebrated 
mineralogist,  afterward  state  geologist  of  Tennessee,  acd  professor  in  the  Univer 
sity  of  Nashville;  of  Wm.  P.  D'Arusmont,  who  married  Miss  Frances  Wright;  of 
Thomas  Say,  the  naturalist,  to  whose  memory  a  fine  monument  was  erected  in 
New  Harmony ;  of  Joseph  Neef,  formerly  an  associate  with  Pestalozzi ;  of  C.  A. 
Lesneur,  the  ichthyologist,  who  was  naturalist  in  the  voyage  of  La  Perouse  to  New 
Holland,  afterward  curator  of  the  Havre  museum ;  and  the  town  is  still  the  resi 
dence  of  several  scientific  persons,  and  the  seat  of  the  Indiana  School  of  Practical 
Sciences. 

As  noted  above,  the  celebrated  Fanny  Wright  was  connected  with  the 
social  scheme  of  Mr.  Owen,  at  New  Harmony.  Thirty  years  ago  her  name 
was  in  the  public  papers  of  the  day,  as  the  most  prominent  of  "  the  strong 
minded"  of  her  sex  in  all  the  land.  She  was  gifted  with  mental  powers 
which  impressed  every  one  who  approached  her.  The  annexed  sketch  of 
this  extraordinary  woman  is  from  a  published  source : 

She  was  born  at  Dundee,  in  Scotland,  it  is  believed,  in  1 796,  and  was  better 
known  by  her  maiden  name,  Fanny  Wright,  than  by  that  of  her  husband,  Darus- 
mont.  Her  father,  Mr.  Wright,  was  intimate  with  Dr.  Adam  Smith,  Dr.  Cullen, 
and  other  men  of  literary  and  scientific  eminence  in  his  day.  Hence,  probably, 
his  daughter,  Fanny,  became  tinctured  with  an  ambition  to  distinguish  herself  as 
a  propagandist  of  social  and  political  novelties.  At  the  age  of  eighteen  she  wrote 
a  little  book,  called  "  A  Few  Days  in  Athens,"  in  which  she  defended  the  opinions 
and  character  of  Epicurus. 

In  1818  she  visited  America,  where  she  remained  three  years,  and  soon  after  pub 
lished  her  observations  under  the  title  of  "  Views  on  Society  and  Manners  in  Amer 
ica."  She  afterward  visited  Paris  in  compliance  with  an  invitation  from  La  Fayette. 
After  her  return  to  America,  about  the  year  1825,  she  purchased  2,000  acres  of 
land  in  Tennessee,  subsequently  the  site  of  Memphis,  and  peopled  it  with  a  num 
ber  of  slave  families  whom  she  had  redeemed. 

In  1833,  she  appeared  as  a  public  lecturer.  Her  deep  soprano  voice,  her  com 
manding  figure,  and  marvelous  eloquence,  combined  with  her  zealous  attacks  on 
negro  slavery,  and  some  other  prominent  features  in  American  institutions,  soon 
made  her  famous  throughout  our  country.  Her  powers  of  oratory  drew  crowds  of 
listeners,  especially  in  New  York :  Fanny  Wright  Societies  were  formed,  resemb 
ling  those  of  the  French  Communists. 

Elated  by  her  powers  of  oratory,  she  visited  all  the  principal  cities  of  the  Amer- 


INDIANA. 


251 


ican  Union;  but  as  she  too  frequently  made  the  philosophy  of  her  "Few  Days  in 
Athens  "  the  groundwork  of  her  discourses,  she  aroused  the  hostility  of  the  press 
and  the  clergy.  During  two  years  she  battled,  as  it  were  single-handed,  by  means 
of  her  pen  and  verbally,  with  her  powerful  foes,  and  kept  her  name  ringing  through 
out  the  country.  Meanwhile  she  had  her  redeemed  slaves  taught  agricultural  pur 
suits,  and  educated  in  general  knowledge;  but  although  ior  a  time  promising  well, 
from  some  cause  not  generally  known,  the  experiment  failed,  and  the  slaves  were 
sent  to  Hayti. 

She  then  joined  Robert  Owen  in  his  Communist  scheme  at  New  Harmony,  edit 
ing  the  Gazette,  and  lecturing  in  behalf  of  the  enterprise,  in  some  of  the  large 
cities  and  towns  of  the  western  states,  but  with  a  success  which  did  not  equal  her 
expectations.  Subsequently,  Miss  Wright  married  M.A'Drusmont,  aman  who  pro 
fessed  her  own  system  of  philosophy;  but  they  soon  separated,  and  she  resided 
during  the  remainder  of  her  life  in  America,  with  an  only  {laughter,  the  fruit  of 
her  marriage.  Her  husband's  suit  at  law,  to  obtain  possession  of  her  property, 
added  still  further  to  her  notoriety. 

This  circumstance,  and  her  ill  health,  tended  to  cool  her  political  enthusiasm,  if 
not  to  modify  her  opinions.  Her  experience  did  not,  on  the  whole,  afford  much 
cause  for  self-gratulation,  or  furnish  encouragement  to  others  to  embark  in  any  sim 
ilar  enterprises  for  the  reformation  of  society.  She  died  at  Cincinnati,  January 
13,  1853,  aged  57  years. 


South- eastern  view  in  Calhoun-street,  Port  Wayne. 

FORT  WAYNE,  the  county  seat  of  Allen  county,  is  situated  on  the  line  of 
the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Joseph's  and  St. 
Mary's  Rivers,  which  here  unite  and  form  the  Maumee,  112  miles  N.E.  from 
Indianapolis,  110  E.N.E.  from  Lafayette,  and  96  W.  from  Toledo.  It  is  a 
flourishing  place,  and  by  means  of  its  railroad,  canal  and  plank  road  com 
munications,  is  quite  a  center  of  business.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  on  level 
and  fertile  prairie  land.  About  half  the  population  are  of  recent  foreign  de 
scent.  Four  newspapers  are  published  in  this  place,  one  of  which  is  in  the 
German  language.  Population  in  1860,  10,388. 

The  Twightees,  a  branch  of  the  Miami  tribe,  had  a  village  at  Fort  Wayne, 
in  their  language  called  Ke-ki-o-que.  At  one  time  it  was  called  "  French 
Store,"  as  it  was  for  a  long  time  a  trading  post  of  that  nation,  and  the  site 
of  a  military  post.  About  the  year  1764  the  English  built  a  fort  here. 
Old  Fort  Wayne  was  erected  here  in  1794,  and  was  continued  a  military  post 
until  1819,  until  the  removal  of  the  Miamis  and  Pottawatomies,  in  1841:  it 
was  resorted  to  by  them  for  the  disposal  of  their  furs,  and  to  spend  their 


252  INDIANA. 

annuities.     It  was  against  the  Indian  villages  in  this  vicinity,  that  Harmar's 
expedition  was  directed,  the  particulars  of  which  we  annex: 

"  In  the  autumn  of  1790,  about  1,300  troops,  of  whom  less  than  one  fourth  were 
regulars,  marched  from  Cincinnati,  under  General  Harmer,  against  the  Indian 
towns  on  the  Maumee,  near  the  site  of  Fort  Wayne.  When  within  a  short  dis 
tance  of  their  point  of  destination,  Col.  Hardin  was  detached  with  six  hundred  and 
fifty  men.  This  advance,  on  reaching  the  Indian  villages  found  them  deserted. 
The  next  day,  the  main  body  having  arrived,  their  towns,  containing  three  hun 
dred  wigwams,  were  burnt,  the  fruit  trees  girdled,  and  20,000  bushels  of  corn  de 
stroyed.  While  the  troops  were  at  the  villages,  a  detachment  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  Kentucky  militia  and  thirty  regulars,  under  Col.  Hardin,  were  sent  on  an  In 
dian  trail,  when  they  fell  into  an  ambush  of  seven  hundred  warriors  under  Little 
Turtle.  At  the  first  fire  the  militia  fled  without  firing  a  shot,  but  the  thirty  regu 
lars  resisted  with  the  greatest  obstinacy  until  all  were  killed,  except  two  officers 
and  two  or  three  privates.  Ensign  Armstrong  was  saved  by  falling  behind  a  log 
while  on  the  retreat,  which  screened  him  from  his  pursuers ;  while  Captain  Arm 
strong  was  preserved  by  plunging  up  to  his  neck  in  a  swamp.  There  he  remained 
all  night  a  spectator  of  the  war  dance  over  the  bodies  of  the  dead  and  wounded 
soldiers,  and  the  shrieks  of  the  latter,  as  they  were  tortured,  mingling  with  the 
yells  of  the  savages. 

When  the  army  had  proceeded  one  day  on  the  return  march,  Col.  Hardin  and 
Maj.  Willis  were  sent  back  with  four  hundred  men,  of  whom  sixty  were  regulars, 
to  surprise  the  Indians,  whom  it  was  supposed  would  return.  On  entering  the 
town  a  few  of  the  enemy  were  seen,  who  immediately  fled,  and  decoyed  the  militia 
into  an  irregular  pursuit  in  different  directions.  This  being  accomplished,  Little 
Turtle  fell,  with  his  main  body,  upon  the  regulars  with  great  fury.  They  threw 
down  their  guns,  and  with  their  tomahawks,  rushed  upon  the  bayonets  of  the  sol 
diers.  While  a  soldier  was  engaged  in  the  use  of  his  bayonet  upon  one  Indian, 
two  others  would  sink  their  tomahawks  in  his  head.  The  result  was  that  every 
regular  fell,  together  with  their  gallant  major.  Ere  the  conflict  was  over,  a  part 
of  the  militia  who  had  returned  from  the  pursuit,  joined  in  the  contest,  but  were 
compelled  to  retreat,  leaving  the  dead  and  wounded  in  the  hands  of  the  enemy. 

The  expedition,  in  destroying  the  Indian  villages,  had  accomplished  the  ijreat 
object  of  its  mission,  although  under  circumstances  of  misfortune.  It  was''  suc 
ceeded  by  such  vigorous  exertions,  on  the  part  of  the  savages,  that  they  must  have 
eucceedea  in  breaking  up  the  American  settlements,  were  it  not  for  the  total  de 
struction  of  their  property  and  provisions  just  at  the  approach  of  winter." 

The  siege  of  Fort  Wayne,  in  the  war  of  1812,  was  a  memorable  event  in 
the  history  of  this  region,  the  particulars  of  which  we  derive  from  Howe's 
"Great  West:" 

In  August,  1812,  immediately  after  the  disgraceful  surrender  of  Hull,  about  five 
hundred  Indian  warriors  laid  siege  to  Fort  Wayne,  a  dilapidated  structure  of  wood 
which  had  been  built  in  Wayne's  campaign,  near  the  north-eastern  corner  of  In 
diana,  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Joseph  s  and  St  Mary's  Rivers,  main  branches  of 
the  Maumee.  The  garrison,  amounting  to  less  than  one  seventh  of  their  number, 
was  commanded  by  Capt.  Rhea,  an  old  officer  broken  down  by  intemperance,  and 
of  a  timid  disposition.  As  at  that  period  the  whole  surrounding  region  was  a  wil 
derness,  and  they  were  far  from  succor,  their  danger  was  imminent. 

They  were  finally  saved  from  the  horrors  of  an  Indian  massacre,  by  the  daring 
bravery  and  address  of  a  young  Virginian,  named  William  Oliver.  This  young 
man,  scarce  twenty-one  years  of  age,  to  a  slender  and  delicate,  though  active  figure, 
united  in  a  high  degree  the  qualities  of  undaunted  courage,  enthusiasm,  firmness, 
and  sagacity.  A  resident  of  Fort  Wayne,  he  was  at  this  time,  temporarily  absent 
at  Cincinnati,  and  learning  on  his  return  route  that  the  Indians  had  appeared  be 
fore  the  fort,  he  voluntarily  hurried  back  to  the  city  to  urge  the  troops  stationed 
at  that  point  to  hasten  to  its  relief.  This  being  accomplished,  he  set  out  again  with 
all  speed  toward  the  fort,  intending  to  reach  it,  and  penetrate  through  its  swarm 
of  surrounding  savages  in  advance  of  the  relief,  for  the  purpose  of  encouraging 
the  garrison  to  persevere  in  its  defense  until  their  arrival. 


INDIANA. 


253 


At  St.  Mary's  River  he  came  to  an  encampment  of  Ohio  militia,  with  whom  waa 
Thomas  Worthington,  of  Chillicothe  (afterward  governor  of  Ohio),  then  on  t  e 
frontier  as  Indian  commissioner,  to  whom  Oliver  communicated  his  intention  of 
entering  the  fort,  or  of  perishing  in  the  attempt.  Worthington  had  been  originally 
opposed  to  the  policy  of  declaring  war ;  but  now  that  it  had  been  commenced,  was 
zealous  for  its  vigorous  prosecution ;  yet  this  did  not  save  him  from  the  taunt  of  an 
ill-bred  brother  officer,  who  accused  him  of  a  want  of  patriotism.  Being  a  high 


View  of  old  Fort  Wayne. 

[Copied  from  E.  P.  Abbott's  Map  of  the  city  of  Fort  Wayne,  published  in  1855.] 

spirited  man  of  the  keenest  sense  of  honor,  this  accusation  stung  Worthington  to 
the  quick,  and  he  felt  eager  to  embark  in  any  enterprise,  howsoever  desperate,  to 
show  the  unjustness  of  the  charge,  and  his  willingness  to  peril  his  all  for  his  coun 
try.  In  him  Oliver  found  a  zealous  confederate,  notwithstanding  old  experienced 
frontiersmen  endeavored  to  dissuade  him  from  the  dangerous  undertaking.  United 
ly,  they  induced  sixty-eight  of  the  militia,  and  sixteen  Shawnee  Indians,  to  accom 
pany  them. 

On  the  second  day's  march,  thirty-six  of  the  party,  consulting  their  fears,  secret 
ly  deserted  their  companions,  and  returned  to  the  main  body.  The  remainder  con 
tinued  their  route,  and  at  sunset  in  their  camp,  heard  the  evening  gun  from  the 
fort,  through  an  intervening  forest  of  twenty-four  miles.  As  the  reduced  party  was 
not  strong  enough  to  encounter  the  enemy,  Worthington  was  very  reluctantly  in 
duced  to  remain  at  this  point  with  his  men,  while  Oliver,  with  three  friendly  In 
dians,  pushed  on.  Being  well  armed  and  mounted,  they  started  at  day-break  the 
next  morning,  proceeding  with  great  caution.  When  within  five  miles  of  the  fort, 
they  perceived  holes  which  the  Indians  had  dug  on  each  side  of  the  road  for  con 
cealment,  and  to  cut  off  all  who  should  approach  toward  the  place.  Upon  observ 
ing  these,  they  abandoned  the  main  road,  struck  off  across  the  country,  and  reached 
the  Maumee  one  and  a  half  miles  below  the  fort.  Tying  their  horses  in  a  thicket, 
they  stole  cautiously  along  through  the  forest  to  ascertain  if  the  Indians  had  ob 
tained  possession.  Oliver  at  length  discovered,  with  feelings  of  joy,  the  American 
flag  waving  above  the  fort;  but  not  deeming  even  this  as  conclusive,  he  approached 
on  the  east  side  so  near  as  not  only  to  discern  the  blue  uniform  of  a  sentinel,  but 
to  recognize  in  his  countenance  that  of  an  acquaintance. 

Having  satisfied  himself  on  this  point,  they  returned,  remounted  their  horses, 
and  taking  the  main  road,  moved  rapidly  onward.  Upon  reaching  the  gate  of  the 
esplanade,  they  found  it  locked,  and  were  thus  compelled  to  pass  down  the  river 
bank,  and  then  ascend  it  at  the  northern  gate.  They  were  favored  in  doing  so,  by 
the  withdrawal  of  the  savages  from  this  point,  in  carrying  out  a  plan,  then  on  the 
point  of  consummation,  for  taking  the  fort  by  an  ingenious  stratagem. 

For  several  days  previous  to  this  time,  the  hostile  chiefs,  under  a  flag  of  truce, 
had  been  holding  intercourse  with  the  garrison.  In  their  interviews  with  Captain 
Khea,  that  officer  had  shown  such  a  spirit  of  timidity,  that  they  felt  persuaded  that 


254  INDIANA. 

it  could  be  made  available  at  the  proper  moment,  to  put  him  and  his  men  in  their 
power.  They  had,  accordingly,  arranged  their  warriors  in  a  semicircle  on  the  west 
and  south  sides  of  the  fort,  and  at  a  short  distance  from  it.  Five  of  the  chiefs,  un 
der  pretense  of  treating  with  the  officers  of  the  garrison,  were  to  pass  into  the 
fort,  and  gain  admittance  into  the  council-room  with  scalping-knives  and  pistols  se 
creted  under  their  blankets.  Then,  at  a  certain  signal,  they  were  to  assassinate 
the  two  subaltern  officers,  seize  Captain  Rhea,  and  with  threats  of  instant  death, 
if  he  did  not  comply,  and  promises  of  safety,  if  he  did,  compel  him  to  order  the 
gates  to  be  thrown  open  for  the  admission  of  their  warriors. 

The  plan,  thus  arranged,  was  in  the  act  of  being  carried  into  execution,  at  the 
moment  when  Oliver  and  his  companions  reached  the  gate.  Their  safe  arrival  at 
that  particular  moment,  may  be  justly  considered  as  miraculous.  One  hour  sooner 
or  one  hour  later  would  have,  no  doubt,  been  inevitable  destruction  both  to  himself 
and  escort ;  the  parties  of  Indians  who  had  kept  close  guard,  for  eight  days  previ 
ous,  upon  the  roads  and  passes  in  different  directions,  having  all,  at  that  moment, 
been  called  in  to  aid  in  carrying  the  fort. 

Winnemac,  Five  Medals,  and  three  other  hostile  chiefs,  bearing  the  flag  of  truce, 
under  which  they  were  to  gain  admittance  to  carry  out  their  treacherous  intentions, 
were  surprised  by  suddenly  meeting  at  the  gate  Oliver  and  his  companions.  Com 
ing  from  different  directions,  and  screened  by  the  angles  of  the  fort,  they  were  not 
visible  to  each  other  until  that  moment.  Winnemac  showed  great  chagrin,  uttered 
an  ejaculation  of  disappointment,  and  hastily  returning  to  the*  Indian  camp,  in 
formed  the  chiefs  and  warriors  that  the  stratagem  was  defeated. 

Oliver  immediately  upon  his  arrival,  wrote  a  hasty  letter  to  Worthington,  de 
scribing  the  situation  of  the  fort,  which  he  sent  by  the  Indians.  Luckily  their 
movements  were  not  observed,  until  they  had  actually  started  from  the  garrison 
gate.  They  now  put  spurs  to  their  horses,  and  dashed  off  at  full  speed.  The  hos 
tile  Indians  were  instantly  in  motion  to  intercept  them  ;  the  race  was  a  severe  and 
perilous  one,  but  they  cleared  the  enemy's  line  in  safety,  and  then  their  loud  shout 
of  triumph  rose  high  in  the  air,  and  fell  like  music  upon  the  ears  of  the  beleaguered 
garrison.  They  safely  delivered  the  letter,  and  a  few  days  after  Gen.  Harrison  ar 
rived  with  reinforcements,  the  enemy  having  continued  the  siege  until  within  a 
few  hours  of  his  arrival,  and  that,  too,  with  such  perseverance,  that  the  vigilance 
of  the  garrison  alone  saved  them  from  a  general  conflagration  from  the  burning 
arrows  of  the  savages.* 

In  the  year  1830,  Fort  "Wayne  contained  about  100  inhabitants.  The  old 
fort  was  situated  in  the  north-eastern  section  of  the  city ;  the  Wabash  and 
Erie  Canal  passes  through  a  part  of  its  site.  The  first  church  erected  was 
built  by  the  Old  School  Presbyterians;  this  house  is  still  standing,  and  is 
now  occupied  by  the  English  Lutherans.  The  Methodists  erected  the  second 
church,  the  Baptists  the  third.  The  Catholics  erected  their  first  house  of 
worship  on  Calhoun-street,  and  it  is  now  standing.  The  first  regular  Pro 
testant  clergyman  was  Rev.  James  Chute,  from  Columbus,  Ohio.  The  Rev. 
Stephen  R.  Ball  and  N.  B.  Griffiths  were  the  first  Methodist  preachers ;  they 
preached  at  first  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  place,  in  a  brick  school-house, 
long  since  taken  down.  This  school-house  was  the  first  built.  Benjamin 
Cushman  and  Lewis  G.  Thompson  were  among  the  early  physicians.  David 
H.  Colerick  and  Henry  P.  Cooper  were  among  the  early  lawyers.  The  "Fort 
Wayne  Sentinel"  was  established  about  1833,  by  Noel  &  Tigar;  their  office 
stood  at  the  east  end  of  the  canal  basin,  near  or  on  the  spot  where  the  ware 
house  of  Messrs.  Hill  &  Orbison  now  stands.  The  "  Fort  Wayne  Weekly 
Times"  was  established  as  a  whig  journal,  in  1840. 

Little  Turtle,  the  celebrated  Indian  chieftain,  died  at  this  place  in  1812, 
his  grave,  near  Fort  Wayne,  used  to  be  shown  to  visitors,  and  was  formerly 

*01iver  was  postmaster  at  Cincinnati,  in  Taylor's  administration.  He  died  there  a  few 
years  since. 


INDIANA.  255 

much  visited  by  the  Indians,  who  cherished  his  memory  with  great  respect 
and  veneration.  He  commanded  the  Indians  at  the  defeat  of  St.  Clair.  The 
following,  notice  appeared  in  the  public  prints  at  the  time  of  his  death: 
"Fort  Wayne,  July  21,  1812.— On  the  14th  inst.,  the  celebrated  Miami 
chief,  the  Little  Turtle,  died  at  this  place,  at  the  age  of  65  years.  Perhaps 
there  is  not  left  on  this  continent  one  of  his  color  so  distinguished  in  coun 
cil  and  in  war.  His  disorder  was  the  gout.  He  died  in  a  camp,  because  he 
chose  to  be  in  the  open  air.  He  met  death  with  great  firmness.  The  agent 
for  Indian  affairs  had  him  buried  with  the  honors  of  war,  and  other  marks 
of  distinction  suited  to  his  character." 


The  following  inscriptions  are  from  monuments  in  the  graveyard  at  Fort 
Wayne : 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  COL.  ALEXANDER  EWING,  one  of  the  bravest  soldiers  of  the  Rev 
olution  :  from  the  year  1780  to  the  peace  of  1783,  he  was  actively  engaged  in  the  Ranger 
service  on  the  frontiers  of  New  York  and  Pennsylvania.  He  was  a  volunteer  at  the  battle 
of  the  Thames,  in  1813,  and  among  the  first  who  broke  the  British  lines  on  that  occasion, 
so  glorious  to  the  arms  of  his  country.  Died  at  Fort  Wayne,  Jan.  1,  1827,  aged  60  years. 


Sacred  to  the  memory  of  CHARLES  W.  EWING,  eldest  son  of  Col.  A.  and  Mrs.  C.  Ewing, 
Attorney  and  Counsellor  at  Law  and  President  Judge  of  the  9th  Judicial  Circuit  of  the 
State  of  Indiana.  Died  at  Fort  Wayne,  Jan.  9,  1843,  aged  45  years. 

SAMUEL  BIGGER,  late  Governor  of  this  State,  died  Sept.  9,  1846.  A  patriot  and  a  Christ 
ian,  he  died  in  the  full  hope  of  a  glorious  immortality. 

I  would  not  live  always,  no,  welcome  the  tomb : 
Since  Jesus  has  been  there,  I  dread  not  its  gloom. 

Optatum,  meum  suavium,  quod.     Te  in  terram  retnuevit,  condonato. 

REV.  SAMUEL  BRENTON,  A.M.,  died  March  29,  1857,  aged  46  yrs.  4  mo.  7  da.  He  was  a 
devoted  minister  of  the  M.  E.  church,  and  4  years  a  member  of  Congress.  He  was  faithful 
to  his  Country,  the  Church,  and  his  God.  Mark  the  perfect  man,  and  behold  the  upright, 
for  the  end  of  that  man  is  peace.  Rejoice  in  the  Lord  always. 

SAMUEL  LEWIS,  born  June  13,  1796,  died  Jan.  2,  1843.  He  filled  with  distinction  import 
ant  civil  offices,  and  was  eminent  as  a  Christian. 

In  memory  of  MARY,  wife  of  REV.  A.  T.  RANKIN,  Pastor  of  the  First  Presbyterian 
Church,  Fort  Wayne,  la.,  who  departed  this  life  July  19,  1841,  aged  31  years.  Here  rests 
all  that  can  die  of  a  Home  Missionary.  Her  work  is  done.  She  sleeps  in  Jesus. 

REV.  JESSE  HOOVER,  died  May  24,  1838fiaged  28  years.  Organizer  of  the  first  German 
Evangelical  Church  at  Fort  Wayne,  in  the  year  1836,  and  was  its  faithful  pastor  till  God 
called  him  home. 

Mir  nach  spricht  Christus  unser  Held. 

Hier  ruhe  in  Gott  ADAM  H.  WEPEL,  geb,  am  7  Jum  1802,  gett  am  Mai,  1852.  Sammt 
feinen  6  vereits  vor  ihm  entfchlenen  kindern  harret  er  nun  der  seligen  und  froehlichen  Nu- 
ferstedung  der  Todten.  Wenn  Gottes  Mort  nicht  ware  mein  Troft  gewesen  so  ware  ich 
vergangen  meinen  elende. 

LAFAYETTE,  the  capital  of  Tippecanoe  county,  is  next  to  Indianapolis, 
the  most  important  city  of  Central  Indiana.  It  is  on  the  Wabash  River,  and 
on  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  with  three  or  four  important  railroad  lines 
passing  through  it,  and  distant  64  miles  north-west  of  Indianapolis.  By 
river,  canal,  and  railroad,  it  is  united  with  78  counties  of  the  state.  Im 
mediately  around  the  city  for  miles,  lie  some  of  the  richest  portions  of  In- 


£56 


INDIANA. 


•liana.  It  also  possesses  all  the  elements  necessary  to  a  flourishing  manu 
facturing  city.  By  river,  canal  and  creeks,  sites  for  machinery  propelled  by 
water  can  be  obtained  of  any  amount  of  power,  while  by  railroad  and  canal 
it  is  brought  into  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  inexhaustible  mines  of 


Southern   View  of  Lafayette  from  near  the   Valley  Railroad. 

The  Wabash  River,  canal,  etc.,  pass  by  the  distant  buildings  whic.h  are  on  the  extreme  left.  Ohio-street, 
passing  the  two  principal  Hotels  and  the  Court  House,  appears  in  the  central  part.  The  Presbyterian  and 
other  churches  on  the  right. 

coal,  iron  and  clay,  and  other  materials  necessary  to  carry  on  successfully  all 
kinds  of  manufactures.  Lafayette  was  laid  out,  on  government  land,  May 
17,  1825,  by  William  Digby  :  it  has  14  churches  and  in  1860,  9,426  inhab 
itants. 

In  the  heart  of  the  city  on  the  public  square,  a  few  years  since,  while  bor 
ing  for  pure  water  at  the  depth  of  230  feet,  a  stream  of  medicinal  water  was 
struck.  A  careful  analysis  proves  it  of  immense  value,  and  to  compare  fa 
vorably  with  the  most  celebrated  mineral  waters  of  Europe.  It  is  similar  to 
the  Blue  Lick  Springs  of  Kentucky,  and  is  a  salt  sulphur  water.  It  is  ap 
plicable  to  numerous  diseases,  viz  :  bronchitis,  rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  dis 
eases  of  the  liver,  kidneys,  sexual  organs,  ancR n  general  for  disturbances  of 
the  secretive  organs  or  surfaces.  The  stream  is  constant  and  ample  for  all 
bathing  and  drinking  purposes. 

Seven  miles  north  of  Lafayette,  on  the  line  of  the  railroad  to  Chicago,  is 
the  Battle  Field  of  Tippecanoe,  where,  just  before  the  gray  of  morning,  Nov. 
7,  1811,  Gen.  William  Henry  Harrison,  then  governor  of  the  territory  of 
Indiana,  at  the  head  of  900  men,  principally  militia  and  volunteers,  defeated 
an  equal  body  of  Indians  under  the  Prophet,  Tenskwautawa,  the  brother  of 
Tecumseh.  •  The  town  of  the  Prophet.  Keth-tip-e-ca-nunk,  corrupted  in  mod 
ern  orthography,  to  Tippecanoe,  stood  over  a  mile  distant,  on  the  Wabash:  it 
extended  along  the  stream  from  the  site  of  Davis'  Ferry  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Tippecanoe.  Tecumseh  was  not  present  in  the  action,  being  absent  at 
the  south  among  the  Creeks  and  Seminoles,  to  unite  them  with  the  northern 


INDIANA. 


257 


tribes  in  his  grand  confederacy  against  the  whites.     The  subjoined  narra 
tive  of  the  battle  is  from  Drake's  Tecumseh : 

On  the  5th  of  November,  1811,  Gov.  Harrison,  with  about  900  effective  troops, 
composed  of  250  of  the  4th  regiment  United  States  infantry,  130  volunteers,  and  a 
body  of  militia,  encamped  within  10  miles  of  the  Prophet's  town.  On  the  next 


4 


Eastern    View  of  the  Battle  Field  of  Tippecanoe. 

The  place  of  Harrison's  encampment  is  shown  l>y  the  inclosed  fence,  within  which  is  six  or  eight  acres  of 
ground.  The  main  body  of  the  savages  were  in  the  wheat  field  in  front,  this  side  of  the  railroad.  It  was 
then  a  marsh,  covered  with  tall  grass,  in  which  they  were  concealed. 

day,  when  the  army  was  within  five  miles  of  the  village,  reconnoitering  parties  of 
the  Indians  were  seen,  but  they  refused  to  hold  any  conversation  with  the  inter 
preters  sent  forward  by  the  governor  to  open  a  communication  with  them.  When 
within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  town,  a  halt  was  made,  for  the  purpose  of  encamp 
ing  for  the  night.  Several  of  the  field  officers  urged  the  governor  to  make  an  im 
mediate  assault  on  the  village ;  but  this  he  declined,  as  his  instructions  from  the 
president  were  positive,  not  to  attack  the  Indians,  as  long  as  there  was  a  proba 
bility  of  their  complying  with  the  demands  of  government.  Upon  ascertaining, 
however,  that  the  ground  continued  favorable  for  the  disposition  of  his  troops,  quite 
up  to  the  town,  he  determined  to  approach  still  nearer  to  it  In  the  meantime, 
Capt.  Dubois,  with  an  interpreter,  was  sent  forward  to  ascertain  whether  the 
Prophet  would  comply  with  the  terms  proposed!  by  the  governor.  Th^  Indians, 
however,  would  make  no  reply  to  these  inquiries,  but  endeavored  t€>  cut  off  the 
messengers  from  the  army.  When  this  fact  was  reported  to  the  governor,  he  de 
termined  to  consider  the  Indians  as  enemies,  and  at  once  march*  upon  their  town. 
He  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  however,  before-  he1  was  met  by  three  In 
dians,  one  of  them  a  principal  counselor  to  the  Prophet,  wh©  stated  that  they  were 
sent  to  know  why  the  army  was  marching  upon  their  town — that  the  Prophet  was 
desirous  of  avoiding  hostilities — that  he  had  sent  a  pa-eific  message  to  Gov.  Harri 
son  by  the  Miami  and  Potawatomie  chiefs,  but  that  those  chiefs  had  unfortunately 
gone  down  on  the  south  side  of  the  Wabash,  and  had  thus  failed  to  meet  him. 
Accordingly,  a  suspension  of  hostilities  was  agreed  upon,  and  the  terms  of  peace 

17 


258 


INDIANA. 


were  to  be  settled  on  the  following  morning  by  the  governor  and  the  chiefs.  In 
moving  the  army  toward  the  Wabash,  to  encamp  for  the  night,  the  Indians  became 
again  alarmed,  supposing  that  an  attack  was  about  to  be  made  on  the  town,  not 
withstanding  the  armistice  which  had  just  been  concluded.  They  accordingly  be 
gan  to  prepare  for  defense,  and  some  of  them  sallied  out,  calling  upon  the  advanced 
corps,  to  halt.  The  governor  immediately  rode  forward,  and  assured  the  Indians 
that  it  was  not  his  intention  to  attack  them,  but  that  he  was  only  in  search  of  a 
suitable  piece  of  ground  on  which  to  encamp  his  troops.  He  inquired  if  there 
was  any  other  water  convenient,  beside  that  which  the  river  afforded ;  and  an  In 
dian,  with  whom  he  was  well  acquainted,  answered,  that  the  creek  which  had  been 
crossed  two  miles  back,  ran  through  the  prairie  to  the  north  of  the  village.  A 
halt  was  then  ordered,  and  Majors  Piatt,  Clark  and  Taylor,  were  sent  to  examine 
this  creek,  as  well  as  the  river  above  the  town,  to  ascertain  the  correctness  of  the 
information,  and  decide  on  the  best  ground  for  an  encampment.  In  the  course  of 
half  an  hour,  the  two  latter  reported  that  they  had  found,  on  the  creek,  everything 
that  could  be  desirable  in  an  encampment — an  elevated  spot,  nearly  surrounded 
by  an  open  prairie,  with  water  convenient,  and  a  sufficiency  of  wood  for  fuel.  * 
The  army  was  now  marched  to  this  spot,  and  encamped  "  on  a  dry  piece  of  ground, 
which  rose  about  10  feet  above  the  level  of  a  marshy  prairie  in  front  toward  the 
town;  and,  about  twice  as  high  above  a  similar  prairie  in  the  rear;  through  which, 
near  the  foot  of  the  hill,  ran  a  small  stream  clothed  with  willows  and  brushwood. 
On  the  left  of  the  encampment,  this  bench  of  land  became  wider ;  on  the  right, 
it  gradually  narrowed,  and  terminated  in  an  abrupt  point,  about  150  yards  from 
the  right  bank."  f 

The  .encampment  was  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  Prophet's  town; 
and  orders  were  given,  in  the  event  of  a  night  attack,  for  each  corps  to  maintain  its 
position,  at  all  hazards,  until  relieved  or  further  orders  were  given  to  it.  The 
whole  army  was  kept,  during  the  night,  in  the  military  position,  which  is  called, 
lying  on  their  arms.  The  regular  troops  lay  in  their  tents,  with  their  accoutre 
ments  on,  and  their  arms  by  their  sides.  The  militia  had  no  tents,  but  slept  with 
their  clothes  and  pouches  on,  and  their  guns  under  them,  to  keep  them  dry.  The 
order  of  the  encampment  was  the  order  of  battle,  for  a  night  attack;  and  as  every 
man  slept  opposite  to  his  post  in  the  line,  there  was  nothing  for  the  troops  to  do, 
in  case  of  an  assault,  but  to  rise  and  take  .their  positions  a  few  steps  in  the  rear  of 
the  fires  around  which  they  had  reposed.  The  guard  of  the  night  consisted  of  two 
captain's  commands  of  42  men,  and  four  non-commissioned  officers  each;  and  two 
subaltern's  guards  of  20  men  and  non-commissioned  officers  each — the  whole 
amounting  to  about  130  men,  under  the  command  of  a  field  officer  of  the  day. 
The  night  was  dark  and  cloudy,  and  after  midnight  there  was  a  drizzling  rain.  It 
was  not  anticipated  by  the  governor  or  his  officers,  that  an  attack  would  be  made 
Curing  the  night :  it  was  supposed  that  if  the  Indians  had  intended  to  act  offen 
sively,  it  would  have  been  done  on  the  march  of  the  army,  where  situations  pre 
sented  themselves  that  would  have  given  the  Indians  a  great  advantage.  Indeed, 
within  three  miles  of  the  town,  the  army  had  passed  over  ground  so  broken  and 
unfavorable  to  its  march,  that  the  position  of  the  troops  was  necessarily  changed 
several  times,  in  the  course  of  a  mile.  The  enemy,  moreover,  had  fortified  their 
town  with  care  and  great  labor,  as  if  they  intended  to  act  alone  on  the  defensive. 
It  was  a  favorite  spot  with  the  Indians,  having  long  been  the  scene  of  those  myste 
rious  rites,  performed  by  their  Prophet,  and  by  which  they  had  been  taught  to  be 
lieve  that  it  was  impregnable  to  the  assaults 'of  the  white  man. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  7th,  Gov.  Harrison,  according  to  his  prac 
tice,  had  risen,  preparatory  to  the  calling  up  the  troops;  and  was  engaged,  while 
drawing  on  his  boots  by  the  fire,  in  conversation  with  Gen.  Wells,  Col.  Owen,  and 
Majors  Taylor  and  Hurst  The  orderly-drum  had  been  roused  for  the  purpose  of 
giving  the  signal  for  the  troops  to  turn  out,  when  the  attack  of  the  Indians  sud 
denly  commenced  upon  the  left  flank  of  the  camp.  The  whole  army  was  instantly 
on  its  feet;  the  camp-fires  were  extinguished;  the  governor  mounted  his  horse  and 

*  M'Afee's  History  of  the  Late  War.  f  Ibid. 


INDIANA.  259 

proceeded  to  the  point  of  attack.  Several  of  the  companies  had  taken  their  places 
in  the  line  within  forty  seconds  from  the  report  of  the  first  gun;  and  the  whole  of 
the  troops  were  prepared  for  action  in  the  course  of  two  minutes;  a  fact  as  credit 
able  to  their  own  activity  and  bravery,  as  to  the  skill  and  energy  of  their  officers. 
The  battle  soon  became  general,  and  was  maintained  on  both  sides  with  signal  and 
even  desperate  valor.  The  Indians  advanced  and  retreated  by  the  aid  of  a  rattling 
noise,  made  with  deer  hoofs,  and  persevered  in  their  treacherous  attack  with  an  aj> 
parent  determination  to  conquer  or  die  upon  the  spot.  The  battle  raged  with  un 
abated  fury  and  mutual  slaughter,  until  daylight,  when  a  gallant  and  successful 
charge  by  our  troops,  drove  the  enemy  into  the  swamp,  and  put  an  end  to  the 
conflict 

Prior  to  the  assault,  the  Prophet  hao*  given  assurances  to  his  followers,  that  in 
the  coming  contest,  the  Great  bpirit  would  render  the  arms  of  the  Americans  una 
vailing;  that  their  bullets  would  fall  harmless  at  the  feet  of  the  Indians;  that  the 
latter  should  have  light  in  abundance,  while  the  former  would  be  involved  in  thick 
darkness.  Availing  himself  of  the  privilege  conferred  by  his  peculiar  office,  and, 
perhaps,  unwilling  in  his  own  person  to  attest  at  once  the  rival  powers  of  a  sham 
prophecy  and  a  real  American  bullet,  he  prudently  took  a  position  on  an  adjacent 
eminence;  and,  when  the  action  began,  he  entered  upon  the  performance  of 
certain  mystic  rites,  at  the  same  time  singing  a  war-song.  In  the  course  of 
the  engagement,  he  was  informed  that  his  men  were  falling:  he  told  them  to 
fight  on,  it  would  soon  be  as  he  had  predicted ;  and  then,  in  louder  and  wilder  strains, 
his  inspiring  battle-song  was  heard  commingling  with  the  sharp  crack  of  the  rifle 
and  the  shrill  war- hoop  of  his  brave  but  deluded  followers. 

Throughout  the  action,  the  Indians  manifested  more  boldness  and  perseverance 
than  had,  perhaps,  ever  been  exhibited  by  them  on  any  former  occasion.  This 
was  owing,  it  is  supposed,  to  the  influence  of  the  Prophet,  who,  by  the  aid  of  his 
incantations,  had  inspired  them  with  a  belief  that  they  would  certainly  overcome 
their  enemy :  the  supposition,  likewise,  that  they  had  taken  the  governor's  army 
by  surpriseT  doubtless  contributed  to  the  desperate  character  of  their  assaults.  They 
were  commanded  by  some  daring  chiefs,  and  although  their  spiritual  leader  was 
not  actually  in  the  battle,  he  did  much  to  encourage  his  followers  in  their  gallant 
attack.  Of  the  force  t>f  the  Indians  engaged,  there  "is  no  certain  account.  The 
ordinary  number  at  the  Prophet's  town  during  the  preceding  summer,  was  450; 
but  a  few  days  before  the  action,  they  had  been  joined  by  all  the  Kickapoos  of  the 
prairie,  and  by  several  bands  of  the  Pottawatomies,  from  the  Illinois  River,  and 
the  St.  Joseph's,  of  Lake  Michigan.  Their  number  on  the  night  of  the  engage 
ment  was  probably  between  800  and  1,000.  Some  of  the  Indians  who  were  in  the 
action,  subsequently  informed  the  agent  at  Fort  Wayne,  that  there  were  more  than 
1,000  warriors  in  the  battle,  and  that  the  number  of  wounded  was  unusually  great 
In  the  precipitation  of  their  retreat,  they  left  38  on  the  field  ;  some  were  buried 
during  the  engagement  in  their  town,  others,  no  doubt,  died  subsequently  of  their 
wounds.  The  whole  number  of  their  killed,  was  probably  not  less  than  50. 

Of  the  army  under  Gov.  Harrison,  35  were  killed  in  the  action,  and  25  died  sub 
sequently  of  their  wounds :  the  total  number  of  killed  and  wounded  was  one  hun 
dred  and  eighty-eight 

Both  officers  and  men  behaved  with  much  coolness  and  bravery — qualities 
which,  in  an  eminent  degree,  marked  the  conduct  of  Gov.  Harrison  throughout  the 
engagement  The  peril  to  which  he  was  subjected  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact 
that  a  ball  passed  through  his  stock,  slightly  bruising  his  neck;  another  struck 
his  saddle,  and  glancing  hit  his  thigh;  and  a  third  wounded  the  horse  on  which 
he  was  riding. 

Peace  on  the  frontiers  was  one  of  the  happy  results  of  this  severe  and  brilliant 
action.  The  tribes  which  had  already  joined  in  the  confederacy  were  dismayed ; 
and  those  which  had  remained  neutral,  now  decided  against  it 

During  the  two  succeeding  days,  the  victorious  army  remained  in  camp,  for  the 
purpose  of  burying  the  dead  and  taking  care  of  the  wounded.  In  the  meantime. 
Col.  Wells,  with  the  mounted  riflemen,  visited  the  Prophet's  town,  and  found  it 
deserted  by  all  the  Indians  except  one,  whose  leg  had  been  broken  in  the  action. 


260  .  INDIANA. 

The  houses  were  mostly  burnt,  and  the  corn  around  the  village  destroyed.  *  On 
the  9th,  the  army  commenced  its  return  to  Vincennes,  having  broken  up  or  com 
mitted  to  the  flames  all  their  unnecessary  baggage,  in  order  that  the  wagons  might 
be  used  for  the  transportation  of  the  wounded. 

The  defeated  Indians  were  greatly  exasperated  with  the  Prophet:  they  re 
proached  him  in  bitter  terms  for  the  calamity  he  had  brought  upon  them,  and  ac 
cused  him  of  the  murder  of  their  friends  who  had  fallen  in  the  action.  It  seems, 
that  after  pronouncing  some  incantations  over  a  certain  composition,  which  he 
had  prepared  on  the  night  preceding  the  action,  he  assured  his  followers,  that  by 
the  power  of  his  art,  half  of  the  invading  army  was  already  dead,  and  the  other 
half  in  a  state  of  distraction ;  and  that  the  Indians  would  have  little  to  do  but 
rush  into  their  camp,  and  complete  the  work  of  destruction  with  their  toma 
hawks.  "  You  are  a  liar'"  said  one  of  the  surviving  Winnebagoes  to  him,  after 
the  action,  "  for  you  told  us  that  the  white  people  were  dead  or  crazy,  when  they 
were  all  in  their  senses  and  fought  like  the  devil."  The  Prophet  appeared  de 
jected,  and  sought  to  excuse  himself  on  the  plea  that  the  virtue  of  his  composition 
had  been  lost  by  a  circumstance  of  which  he  had  no  knowledge,  until  after  the  bat 
tle  was  over.  His  sacred  character,  however,  was  so  far  forfeited,  that  the  In 
dians  actually  bound  him  with  cords,  and  threatened  to  put  him  to  death.  After 
leaving  the  Prophet's  town,  they  marched  about  20  miles  and  encamped  on  the 
bank  of  Wild  Cat  creek. 

With  the  battle  of  Tippecanoe,  the  Prophet  lost  his  popularity  and  power  among 
the  Indians.  His  magic  wand  was  broken,  and  the  mysterious  charm,  by  means 
of  which  he  had  for  years,  played  upon  the  superstitious  minds  of  this  wild  people, 
scattered  through  a  vast  extent  of  country,  was  dissipated  forever.  It  was  not  alone 
to  the  character  of  his  prophetic  office  that  he  was  indebted  for  his  influence  over 
his  followers.  The  position  which  he  maintained  in  regard  to  the  Indian  lands, 
and  the  encroachments  of  the  white  people  upon  their  hunting  grounds,  increased 
his  popularity,  which  was  likewise  greatly  strengthened  by  the  respect  and  defer 
ence  with  which  the  politic  Tecumseh — the  master  spirit  of  his  day — uniformly 
treated  him.  He  had,  moreover,  nimble  wit,  quickness  of  apprehension,  much 
cunning  and  a  captivating  eloquence  of  speech.  These  qualities  fitted  him  for 
playing  his  part  with  great  success ;  and  sustaining  for  a  series  of  years,  the  char 
acter  of  one  inspired  by  the  Great  Spirit.  He  was,  however,  rash,  presumptuous 
and  deficient  in  judgment.  And  no  sooner  was  he  left  without  the  sagacious 
counsel  and  positive  control  of  Tecumseh,  than  he  foolishly  annihilated  his  own 
power,  and  suddenly  crushed  the  grand  confederacy  upon  which  he  and  his  broth 
er  had  expended  years  of  labor,  and  in  the  organization  of  which  they  had  incurred 
much  personal  peril  and  endured  great  privation. 

Tecumseh  returned  from  the  south  through  Missouri,  visited  the  tribes  on  the 
Des  Moines,  and  crossing  the  head-waters  of  the  Illinois,  reached  the  Wabash  a  few 
days  after  the  disastrous  battle  of  Tippecanoe.  It  is  believed  that  he  made  a  strong 
impression  upon  all  the  tribes  visited  by  him  in  his  extended  mission ;  and  that 
he  had  laid  the  foundation  of  numerous  accessions  to  his  confederacy.  He  reached 
the  banks  of  the  Tippecanoe,  Justin  time  to  witness  the  dispersion  of  his  followers, 
the  disgrace  of  his  brother,  and  the  final  overthrow  of  the  great  object  of  his  am 
bition,  a  union  of  all  the  Indian  tribes  against  the  United  States :  and  all  this,  the 
result  of  a  disregard  to  his  positive  commands.  His  mortification  was  extreme  ; 
and  it  is  related  on  good  authority,  that  when  he  first  met  the  Prophet,  he  re 
proached  him  in  bitter  terms  for  having  departed  from  his  instructions  to  preserve 
peace  with  the  United  States  at  all  hazards.  The  attempt  of  the  Prophet  to  pal 
liate  his  own  conduct,  excited  the  haughty  chieftain  still  more,  and  seizing  him 
by  the  hair  and  shaking  him  violently,  he  threatened  to  take  his  life. 

*  The  village  had  been  destroyed  in  1791,  by  Gen.  Charles  Scott,  of  Kentucky.  In  his 
report  of  the  expedition,  he  says  that  "many  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  were  French, 
and  lived  in  a  state  of  civilization.  By  the  books,  letters,  and  other  documents  found  there, 
it  is  evident  that  the  place  was  in  close  connection  with,  and  dependent  on,  Detroit :  "  the 
village  "consisted  of  about  70  houses,  many  of  them  well  finished."  In  November,  1812, 
the  village  was  destroyed  the  third  time  in  the  second  expedition  of  Gen.  Hopkins. 


INDIANA. 


261 


BATTLE  FIELD  OP  TIPPECANOE. 


[Explanations. — a,  point  from  whence  the  engraved  view  was  drawn  ;  b  6, 
line  of  railroad  to  Chicago ;  c,  position  of  Battle  Ground  Institute ;  d,  place 
where  the  Indians  first  began  the  attack ;  e  e,  front  line  where  occurred  the 

main  conflict ;  /,  Gen.  Harri 
son's  marquee ;  h,  point  where 
Maj.  Daviess  is  said  to  have 
been  slain ;  g,  grave  of  Daviess. 
The  black  lines  indicate  the 
fence  now  inclosing  the  battle 
ground.] 

The  highest  officers  among 
the  Americans  slain  at  Tippe- 
canoe,  were  two  Kentucky 
majors — Abraham  Owen  and 
Joseph  Hamilton  Daviess. 
The  particulars  of  the  death 
of  Abraham  Owen  we  give 
below,  from  Smith's  Indiana 
Sketches : 

Gen.  Harrison  rode  a  beautiful  fleet  gray  mare,  that  he  had  tied  with  the  saddle 
on,  to  a  stake  near  his  marquee,  to  be  ready  at  a  moment  in  case  of  alarm. 
Maj.  Owen,  of  Kentucky,  rode  a  bay  horse.  After  the  gray  mare  was  hitched,  it 
became  necessary,  in  order  to  pass  a  baggage  wagon,  to  remove  her  and  tie  her  at 
another  place;  without  the  knowledge  of  Gen.  Harrison,  the  bay  horse  of  Maj. 
Owen  was  afterward  tied  to  the  post  where. the  gray  mare  had  been. 

The  moment  the  alarm  was  given,  every  soldier  was  upon  his  feet,  and  the 
mounted  officers  in  their  saddles.  Gen.  Harrison  ran  to  the  post  where  he  left  his 
gray  mare ;  finding  Maj.  Owen's  bay  horse  he  mounted,  leaving  the  gray  for  the 
major  if  he  could  find  her.  The  general  dashed  down  to  where  he  heard  the  fir 
ing,  rode  up  to  Capt.  Spencer's  position,  at  the  point  of  the  high  ground  around 
which  the  prairies  meet;  there  the  enemy  had  made  the  first  main  attack — deadly 
in  effect.  There  stood  the  brave  ensign  John  Tipton,  and  a  few  of  the  surviving 
men  of  the  company.  Gen.  Harrison.  "  Where  is  the  captain  of  this  company  ?" 
Ensign  Tipton.  "Dead."  "  Where  are  the  lieutenants?"  "Dead."  "Where  is  the 
ensign  ?"  "I  am  here."  "Stand  fast,  my  brave  fellow,  and  I  will  relieve  you  in  a 
minute."  Gen.  Tipton  told  me,  in  after  years,  that  a  cooler  and  braver  man,  on 
the  field  of  battle,  than  Gen.  Harrison,  never  lived.  It  was  a  deadly  night,  the  In- 
'dians  with  rifles  in  their  hands,  concealed  from  view,  in  the  darkness  of  the  night, 
fighting  to  desperation,  under  the  inspiration  of  their  superstition — being  the  at- 
tacking  party,  and  knowing  where  their  enemy  lay,  had  great  advantages,  which 
nothing  but  the  indomitable  courage  of  our  brave  men  could  have  met  and  finally 
repelled.  The  moment  the  alarm  was  given,  the  brave  Maj.  Owen  ran  to  his  stake, 
but  his  horse  was  gone;  near  by  he  found  and  mounted  the  gray  mare  of  the  Gen 
eral.  He  was  scarcely  in  the  saddle,  before  he  fell  mortally  wounded,  pierced 
with  rifle  balls,  which  were  intended,  no  doubt,  for  Gen.  Harrison,  as  the  Indians 
knew  he  rode  a  gray,  and  must  have  been  in  ambush  near.  The  men  and  officers 
that  fell  that  dreadful  night  were  the  bravest  of  the  brave. 

I  visited  the  common  grave  of  these  brave  dead,  who  fell  in  that  terrible  battle  only 
a  few  years  since.  You  will  find  it  in  a  grove  of  white  oak  trees  perforated  by 
balls,  standing  near  the  center  of  the  inclosed  grounds. 

Maj.  Daviess  was  a  colleague  of  Henry  Clay  at  the  Kentucky  bar,  where 
he  stood  very  high  as  an  advocate.  At  the  time  of  his  death  he  was  37 
years  of  age.  It  is  the  tradition  that  he  was  killed  in  the  marsh  at  the  point 
indicated  on  the  map ;  but  from  Gen.  Harrison's  report  of  the  action,  we  in 
fer  that  this  event  took  place  on  high  ground,  on  or  near  where  the  railroad 
line  lays ;  that  states  that  it  was  during  the  execution  of  an  order  to  dislodge 


262  INDIANA. 

some  Indians  from  trees  15  or  20  paces  in  front  of  the  left  line,  that  Daviess 
became  outflanked,  and  fell  mortally  wounded. 

The  land  on  which  the  battle  was  fought,  was  purchased  by  Gen.  John 
Tipton,  and  presented  to  the  state  of  Indiana,  as  a  burial  place'  for  his  fallen 
comrades.  Tipton  was  the  brave  ensign  of  Capt.  Spencer's  company,  noticed 
above.  His  name  is  most  honorably  identified  with  the  history  of  the  state. 
He  was  a  senator  in  congress  from  1832  to  1839,  and  chairman  of  the  Com- 
mitte  of  Indian  Affairs,  an  office  for  which  he  was  peculiarly  well  qualified, 
having  been,  for  many  years,  Indian  agent,  and  well  acquainted  with  most 
of  the  Indian  tribes.  He  was  a  warm  hearted  man,  and  possessed  uncommon 
force  of  character :  he  was  one  of  the  original  projectors  of  the  Wabash  and 
Erie  Canal,  and  also  one  of  the  founders  of  Logansport,  where  he  died  in 
1839. 

The  reader  will  notice  the  building  on  the  right  of  the  view.  This  is  the 
Battle  Ground  Institute,  under  the  charge  of  Rev.  E.  H.  Staley.  It  is  a 
flourishing  seminary  for  both  sexes.  A  number  of  small  neat  houses  stand 
above  it,  erected,  some  of  them,  by  the  parents  of  the  children,  many  of  the 
latter  brothers  and  sisters,  who  here  live  together,  obtaining,  away  from 
their  homes,  a  double  education,  that  of  house  keeping,  with  that  derived 
from  books. 


South-eastern  view  of  Madison. 

As  seen  from  the  Kentucky  sido  of  the  Ohio,  near  Milton  ferry.     The  terminus  of  the  Railroad  ia  seen 
on  the  left,  the  Court  House  on  the  right. 

MADISON,  the  county  seat  of  Jefferson  county,  is  situated  86  miles  S.S.E. 
from  Indianapolis,  50  above  Louisville,  and  100  below  Cincinnati.  It  is  lo 
cated  in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  valley,  which,  with  the  hills  on  the  Ken 
tucky  shore  and  those  of  Indiana,  and  the  bold  curve  and  broad  sweep  of 
the  Ohio  River,  affords  a  panorama  rarely  equaled.  The  valley  in  which  the 
city  is  situated,  is  nearly  three  miles  long,  which  is  inclosed  on  the  north  by 
steep  and  rugged  hills  about  400  feet  high.  This  place  has  very  superior 
advantages  for  trade,  and  the  navigation  is  usually  open  in  ordinary  seasons. 
Great  quantities  of  breadstuff's  are  exported,  and  a  large  amount  of  capital 
is  employed  in  founderies,  machine  shops,  etc.,  and  the  establishments  for 


INDIANA. 


263 


packing  pork  are  very  extensive.  Madison  has  gas  and  water  works,  the  lat 
ter  of  which  is  owned  by  the  city.  The  annual  value  of  sales  of  produce 
and  merchandise,  and  industrial  products,  is  eight  millions  of  dollars.  With 
in  five  miles  of  the  city  is  the  well  known  Hanover  College.  Population  is 
ahout  12,000. 

The  site  of  Madison  was  originally  a  dense  growth  of  poplars,  beech  and 
walnut,  and  the  present  landing  was  covered  with  a  growth  of  cottonwood, 
the  water's  edge  being  fringed  with  willows.  The  original  proprietors  were 
John  Paul  and  Jonathan  Lyon.  A  few  families  had  settled  here  on  Mount 
Glad,  now  a  part  of  North  Madison,  in  1807-8.  Col.  John  Vawter  first 
came  to  Madison  in  1806,  and  moved  into  the  country  in  March,  1807 ;  he 
held  the  first  public  sale  of  lots  in  Feb.,  1811.  The  first  white  child  born 
in  Madison  was  Dawson  Blackmore,  Jr.  His  father  came  here  from  western 
Pennsylvania,  in  the  fall  of  1809,  and  located  himself  in  a  framed  log-house, 
now  standing  in  Walnut-street.  The  first  sermon  preached  in  Madison  is 
said  to  have  been  delivered  in  Mr.  Blackmore's  house,  by  a  Methodist 
itinerant  preacher.  The  first  regular  house  of  worship  was  built  on  East- 
street,  on  the  site  of  the  present  St.  John's  church. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  a  number  of  the  earlier  settlers  of  Madison,  pre 
vious  to  1820:  Milton  Stapp,  Jeremiah  Sullivan,  C.  P.  J.  Arvin,  Daniel  Wilson, 
Thomas  Brown,  Nicholas  D.  Grover.  Geo.  W.  Leonard,  Moody  Park,  Victor  King, 
Chas.  W.  Basnett,  William  Brown,  D.  Blackmore,  sen.,  D.  Blackmore,  jr.,  Silas 
Ritchie,  John  Sering,  John  G.  Sering,  William  G.  Wharton,  W.  J.  McClure,  John 
Ritchie,  S.  C.  Stephens,  Howard  Watts,  John  Haney,  Rufus  Gale,  William  Randall, 
Gamaliel  Taylor,  E.  <r.  Whitney,  M.  Shannon,  Edward  Shannon,  Jesse  D.  Bright, 
Michael  G.  Bright,  David  Bright,  Jacob  Wildman,  George  Wagoner,  Andrew  Wood- 
fill,  Alexander  Washer.  Williamson  Dunn,  Wm.  McKee  Dunn,  James  Vawter,  Jno. 
Hunt,  Simeon  Hunt,  Cornelius  Vaile,  Geo.  Short,  and  David  McClure. 

One  of  the  first  sermons  ever  preached  in  Madison,  was  by  that  celebrated 
and  eccentric  itinerant,  Lorenzo  Dow,  who  "held  forth"  standing  on  a  poplar 
log,  near  the  site  of  the  court  house.  He  was  born  in  Coventry,  Connecti 
cut,  in ,  and  died  at  Washington  City,  in ,  aged  —  years,  where  his 

grave  is  now  to  be  seen.  He  traveled  through  the  United  States  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  times,  visiting  the  wilderness  parts,  often  preaching  where  a  ser 
mon  was  never  heard  before.  Occasionally  he  went  to  Canada,  and  made 
three  voyages  to  England  and  Ireland,  where,  as  elsewhere,  he  drew  crowds 
around  him,  attracted  by  his  long  flowing  beard  and  hair,  singularly  wild 
demeanor,  and  pungency  of  speech.  During  the  thirty  years  of  his  public 
life,  he  must  have  traveled  nearly  two  hundred  thousand  miles. 

Pickett,  in  his  History  of  Alabama,  avers  that  he  was  the  earliest  Protestant 
preacher  in  that  state ;  says  he:  "Down  to  this  period  (in  1803),  no  Pro 
testant  preacher  had  ever  raised  his  voice,  to  remind  the  Tombigbee  and  Ten- 
saw  settlers  of  their  duty  to  the  MOST  HIGH.  Hundreds,  born  and  bred  in 
the  wilderness,  and  now  adult  men  and  women,  had  never  even  seen  a 
preacher.  The  mysterious  and  eccentric  Lorenzo  Dow,  one  day,  suddenly  ap 
peared  at  the  Boat  Yard.  He  came  from  Georgia,  across  the  Creek  nation, 
encountering  its  dangers  almost  alone.  He  proclaimed  the  truths  of  the 
gospel  here,  to  a  large  audience,  crossed  over  the  Alabama,  and  preached  two 
sermons  to  the  'Bigbee  settlers,'  and  went  from  thence  to  the  Natchez  set 
tlements,  where  he  also  exhorted  the  people  to  '  turn  from  the  error  of  their 
ways.'  He  then  visited  the  Cumberland  region  and  Kentucky,  and  came 
back  to  the  Tombigbee,  filling  his  appointments  to  the  very  day.  Again 


264 


INDIANA. 


plunging  into  the  Creek  nation,  this  holy  man  of  God  once  more  appeared 
among  the  people  of  Georgia." 

When  Dow  was  in  Indiana,  Judge  O.  H.  Smith  had  the  pleasure  of  listen- 
ing  to  a  discourse  from  him,  some  items  of  which  he  has  thus  preserved 
among  his  Sketches:  "In  the  year  1819,"  states  the  judge,  "I  was  one  of  a 
congregation  assembled  in  the  woods  back  of  Rising  Sun,  anxiously  await- 


South-western  view  of  New  Albany. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  the  city,  as  seen  from  the  high  bluff  which  rises  immediately  south  of  it. 
The.  Ohio  River  appears  on  the  ria;ht,  with  Portland,  a  station  for  steamboats,  on  the  Kentucky  side  of  tb« 
Ohio,  at  the  foot  of  the  Canal  around  the  Falls,  three  miles  from  Louisville. 

ing  the  arrival  of  Lorenzo  Dow.  Time  passed  away,  we  had  all  become  im 
patient,  when  in  the  distance  we  saw  him  approaching  at  a  rapid  rate  through 
the  trees  on  his  pacing  pony.  He  rode  up  to  the  log  on  which  I  was  sitting, 
threw  the  reins  over  the  neck  of  the  pony,  and  stepped  upon  the  log,  took 
off  his  hat,  his  hair  parted  in  the  middle  of  his  head,  and  flowing  on  either 
side  to  his  shoulders,  his  beard  resting  on  his  breast.  In  a  minute,  at  the 
top  of  his  voice,  he  said : 

'Behold,  I  come  quickly,  and  my  reward  is  with  me.1  My  subject  is  repentance. 
We  sinir,  'while  the  lamp  holds  out  to  burn,  the  vilest  sinner  may  return.'  That 
idea  has  done  much  harm,  and  should  be  received  with  many  grains  of  allowance. 
There  are  cases  where  it  would  be  easier  for  a  camel  to  go  through  the  eye  of  a 
needle  than  for  a  man  to  repent  unto  salvation.  Let  me  illustrate :  Do  you  sup 
pose  that  the  man  among  you  who  went  out  last  fall  to  kill  his  deer  and  bear  for 
winter  meat,  and  instead  killed  his  neighbor's  hogs,  salted  them  down,  and  is  now 
living  on  the  meat,  can  repent  while  it  is  unpaid  forf  I  tell  you  nay.  Except  he 
restores  a  just  compensation,  his  attempt  at  repentance  will  be  the  basest  hypo 
crisy.  Except  ye  repent,  truly  ye  shall  all  likewise  perish.' 

He  preached  some  thirty  minutes.  Down  he  stepped,  mounted  his  pony, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  was  moving  on  through  the  woods  at  a  rapid  pace  to 
meet  another  appointment." 


INDIANA. 


265 


NEW  ALBANY,  the  county  seat  of  Floyd  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  at  the  termination  of  the  New  Albany  and 
Salem  Railroad,  2  miles  below  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  3  miles  below  Louisville, 
about  140  below  Cincinnati,  and  100  S.  by  E.  from  Indianapolis.  The  city 
has  wide  straight  streets,  running  parallel  with  the  river,  and  crossed  at  right 
angles  by  others.  A  large  business  is  done  here  in  building  and  repairing 
steamboats,  etc.  There  are  also  large  iron  foundries,  machine  shops  and 
factories.  It  has  two  seminaries,  a  theological  college  under  the  patronage 
of  the  Presbyterians,  and  about  10,000  inhabitants. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  grave  yard 
in  New  Albany : 

"  The  citizens  of  FLOYD  COUNTY  have  erected  this  monument  in  memory 

of  their  HONORED  DEAD. 

'  Glory  is  the  soldier's  prize, 
The  soldier's  wealth  is  honor.' 

Here  rest  the  bodies  of  Francis  Bailey, 
aged  35;  Apollos  J.  Stephens,  27;  Warren 
B.  Robinson,  24;  Charles  H.  Goff,  23; 
members  of  the  '•Spencer  GreysJ  company 
A,  2d  Reg't  Indiana  Volunteers,  who  fell 
at  the  battle  of  BUENA  VISTA,  Mexico, 
Feb.  22  and  23,  1847. 

'  The  soldier  is  his  country's  stay 
In  day  and  hour  of  danger.' 

'  How  sleep  the  brave  who  sink  to  rest, 
By  all  their  country's  wishes  blest?' 

John  T.  Lewis,  aged  21;  Martin  How 
ard,  18;  Joseph  Morgan,  19;  Laiken  Cun 
ningham,  22;  members  of  the  'Spencer 
Greys,'  died  in  the  Mexican  campaign, 
1846-7;  also  Henry  W.  Walker,  aged  37; 
Thos.  J.  Tyler,  aged  19,  of  the  same  com- 
who  returned  home  and  died  of  disease  contracted  in  the  service." 


MILITARY  MONUMENT,  NEW  ALBANY. 


pany, 

REV.  JOHN  MATTHEWS,  D.D.,  Professor  of  Theology  in  the  Presbyterian  Theological  Sem 
inary  at  New  Albany,  la.  Born  in  Guilford  county,  N.  C.,  Jan.  19,  1772 ;  died  in  New  Al 
bany,  May  18,  1848,  aetat  76  years  and  4  tno.  "  Blessed  are  the  dead  which  die  in  the  Lord 
from  henceforth ;  yea,  saith  the  Spirit,  that  they  may  rest  from  their  labors ;  and  their 
works  do  follow  them." 

LEONIDAS  SHACKELFORD,  of  Glasgow,  Missouri,  born  Jan.  7,  1833,  died  Aug.  5, 1852.  In 
whose  memory  this  monument  is  erected  by  his  brothers  and  sisters.  Without  e'arthly 
friends,  he  died  in  a  strange  land,  realizing  in  full  a  sainted  mother's  prayer,  that  a  pre 
cious  Bible  which  she  had  given  him  would  be  his  guide  through  life,  and  in  death  his  con 
solation.  Prov.  verses  17  to  23. 


Logansport,  the  county  seat  of  Cass  county,  is  situated  on  the  Wabash 
River  and  Canal,  at  the  mouth  of  Eel  River,  and  is  intersected  by  the  Toledo, 
Wabash  and  Western  and  the  Cincinnati,  Logansport  and  Chicago  Railroads, 
70  miles  N.  by  W.  from  Indianapolis,  166  W.  of  Toledo,  and  42  N.E.  from 
Lafayette.  It  is  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation,  and  just  below  the 
falls,  which  furnish  immense  water  power,  and  has  a  large  trade  by  river, 
canal  and  plank  roads  with  the  fertile  region  on  every  side,  the  products  of 
which  are  sent  to  the  eastern  and  southern  markets.  Logansport  has  a  city 


266  INDIANA. 

charter,  3  banks,  6  churches,  and  a  fine  court  house  of  hewn  stone.  West 
Logansport,  on  the  west  bank  of  Eel  River,  is  included  in  the  corporate 
limits.  Population,  in  1860,  3,690. 

Jeffersonville  is  a  flourishing  town.  Opposite  Louisville,  Ky.,  on  the  Ohio 
River,  which  is  here  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  1 08  miles  S.  by  E. 
of  Indianapolis,  and  48  below  Madison.  It  is  at  the  terminus  of  the  Jeffer- 
sonville  and  Indianapolis  Railroad,  and  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Steuben,  and 
is  beautifully  situated  just  above  the  falls  in  the  Ohio,  which  descend  22 
feet  in  two  miles,  producing  a  rapid  current,  which,  in  time,  by  the  immense 
•water  power  it  affords,  will,  if  a  canal  is  made  around  the  falls  on  the  In 
diana  side,  render  this  a  large  and  prosperous  manufacturing  city.  Jeffer 
sonville  has  great  facilities  for  doing  business,  and  is  said  to  possess  the  best 
landing  place  on  the  Ohio  River.  The  state  penitentiary  is  located  here. 
Population  about  3,500. 

Lawrencebury,  city  and  county  seat  of  Dearborn,  is  on  the  Ohio,  22  miles 
below  Cincinnati,  and  two  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Miami,  the  line 
of  separation  between  Ohio  and  Indiana.  The  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  and 
Indianapolis  and  Cincinnati  Railroads,  intersect  at  this  point.  Population 
about  4,000. 

A  few  miles  below  Lawrenceburg,  is  a  small  stream  emptying  into  the 
Ohio,  known  as  Laughery's  creek.  It  derived  its  name  from  the  calamitous 
defeat  of  Col.  Archibald  Laughery  by  the  Indians.  This  took  place  in  the 
spring  of  1782,  and  was  the  most  disastrous  military  event  that  ever  occur 
red  upon  the  soil  of  Indiana.  The  annexed  account  is  from  Day's  Hist.  Col 
lections,  of  Pa. : 

Col.  Laughery  had  been  requested,  by  Col.  Clark,  to  raise  100  volunteers  in 
the  county  of  Westmoreland,  Pa.,  to  aid  him  against  the  Ohio  Indians.  The  com 
pany  was  raised  principally  at  his  own  expense,  and  he  also  provided  the  outfit 
and  munitions  for  the  expedition.  In  this  he  was  aided  by  the  late  Robert  Orr,  by 
birth  an  Irishman,  but  who  manifested  a  deep  and  generous  interest  in  his  adopted 
country.  Mr.  Orr  was  one  of  the  officers,  and  next  in  command  under  CoL 
Laughery. 

There  were  107  men  in  the  expedition,  who  proceeded  in  boats  down  the  Ohio, 
to  meet  Gen.  Clark,  at  the  Falls.  At  the  mouth  of  a  creek  in  the  south-eastern  part 
of  Indiana,  that  bears  the  name  of  the  commander,  the  boats  were  attacked  by  the 
Indians.  Of  the  whole  detachment,  not  one  escaped.  Col.  Laughery  was  killed, 
and  most  of  his  officers.  Capt.  Orr,  who  commanded  a  company,  had  his  arm 
broken  with  a  ball.  The  wounded,  who  were  unable  to  travel,  were  dispatched 
with  the  tomahawk,  and  the  few  who  escaped  with  their  lives,  were  driven  through 
the  wilderness  to  ISandusky.  Capt.  Orr  was  taken  to  Detroit,  where  he  lay  in  the 
hospital  for  several  months,  and,  with  the  remnant  who  lived,  was  exchanged,  in 
the  spring  of  1783. 

South  Bend,  the  county  seat  of  St.  Joseph,  is  on  the  Michigan  Southern  and 
Northern  Indiana  Railroad,  .85  miles  easterly  from  Chicago ;  also  on  St.  Jo 
seph  River,  which  furnishes,  by  means  of  a  dam  at  this  point,  a  vast  water 
power.  It  has  some  30  stores,  6  churches,  2  Catholic  Female  Seminaries, 
and  in  1860,  4,013  inhabitants. 

Michigan  City  is  on  Lake  Michigan,  in  La  Porte  county,  54  miles  by  rail 
road  from  Chicago,  and  154  from  Indianapolis.  It  has  communication  by 
the  Michigan  Central,  and  New  Albany  and  Salem  Railroads,  and  the  lake 
with  all  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  noted  for  the  manufacture  of  railroad 
cars,  and  has  about  4,000  inhabitants. 

Laporte,  the  county  seat  of  Laporte  county,  in  the  north-western  part  of 
the  state,  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Cincinnati,  Peru  and  Chicago,  with  the 


INDIANA. 


267 


Michigan  Southern  and  Northern  Railroads,  58  miles  from  Chicago,  on  the 
northern  margin  of  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Door  Prairie,  so  named  from  an 
Indian  chief.  It  was  first  organized  as  a  city  in  1853,  is  a  very  flourishing 
business  place,  and  has  9  churches  and  6,000  inhabitants. 

Bloomington,  the  county  seat  of  Monroe  county,  is  on  the  line  of  the  New 
Albany  and   Salem  Railroad,  96  miles  north  from  New  Albany.     It  was 

laid  out  in  1818,  by  Benjamin 
Park,  agent  for  the  county  com 
missioners.  Its  public  build 
ings  are  substantial,  and  the 
public  square  pleasantly  orna 
mented  with  shade  trees  and 
shrubbery.  It  is  noted  as  a 
place  of  education.  It  has  two 
female  seminaries,  and  is  the 
seat  of  the  State  University, 
founded  in  1835.  Greencastle, 
capital  of  the  neighboring  coun 
ty  of  Putnam ,  40  miles  by  rail 
road  west  of  Indianapolis,  is 
the  seat  of  the  Indiana  Asbury 
University,  founded  in  1837,  and  which  is  not  excelled  by  any  institution  in 
the  state.  Unusual  attention  is  given  in  this  vicinity  to  the  cultivation  of 
fruit,  the  apple,  pear,  peach  and  grape,  for  which  the  soil  is  well  adapted. 
Orawfordsville,  the  county  seat  of  Montgomery,  which  adjoins  Putnam  on 
the  north,  is  on  the  New  Albany  and  Salem  Railroad,  and  45  miles  north 
west  of  Indianapolis.  It  is  in  a  rich  country,  and  is  the  seat  of  Wabash  Col 
lege,  founded  in  1835,  an  institution  of  excellent  repute.  Bloomington, 
Greencastle,  and  Crawfordsville,  have  each  about  2,500  inhabitants. 

Corydon,  the  county  seat  of  Harrison  county,  in  southern  Indiana,  is  a 
town  of  about  1,200  inhabitants.  In  1813,  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
Territory  of  Indiana  was  removed  from  Vin- 
cennes  to  this  place.  When,  in  1816,  Indiana 
was  erected  into  a  state,  Corydon  was  made  the 
capital,  and  so  remained  until  1825,  when  it  was 
removed  to  Indianapolis.  The  court  house  here, 
built  of  stone,  was  the  original  state  house,  and 
the  edifice  in  which  was  formed  the  first  consti 
tution  of  Indiana. 


UNIVEBSITY  or  INDIANA,  BLOOMINGTON. 


Vttvay,  the  county  seat  of  Switzerland  county, 
is  a  small  town  on  the  Ohio  River,  about  half 
way  between  Cincinnati  and  Louisville.  The 
place  is  of  note,  from  its  having  been  one  of  the 
first  settlements  in  the  state,  and  for  the  attempt 
made  there  to  cultivate  the  grape  for  the  pur 
pose  of  manufacturing  wine. 

It  was  laid  out  in  the  year  1813,  by  John 
Francis  Denfour  and  Daniel  Denfour,  emigrants  ^pit&l° 
from.  Switzerland,  who,  in  remembrance  of  their  native  town,  gave  it  its 
present  name.  Part  of  the  land  was  entered  by  John  James  Denfour  and 
his  associates,  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  and  an  extended 
credit  given,  by  an  act  of  congress,  with  a  view  of  encouraging  the  culture 
of  the  grape. 


THE  OID  STATE  HOUSE. 
Sitnated  in  Corydon,  tbe  original 


268 


INDIANA. 


In  the  south  part  of  Indiana  are  some  curiosities  of  nature.  Eleven  miles  from 
Corydon,  and  in  Crawford  county,  is  the  Wyandot  Cave,  which  is  considered  by 
many  to  equal  the  celebrated  Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky.  It  has  been  explored 
for  several  miles,  and  found  to  contain  magnificent  chambers  and  galleries,  rich  in 

stalactites  and  other  lime  concretions.  Two  other 
curiosities,  which  are  near  the  line  of  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi  railroad,  have  only  come  into  no 
tice  since  the  construction  of  that  work.  The 
Jug  Rock  is  at  Shoal  Station,  in  Martin  county, 
150  miles  west  of  Cincinnati,  and  derives  its 
name  from  its  resemblance  in  form  to  a  homely 
and  useful  utensil.  It  is  a  lone  standing  pillar 
of  sandstone,  of  about  seventy  feet  in  hight,  in 
the  midst  of  a  forest  of  beach  and  sugar  trees. 
It  is  an  unusual  object  for  this  region ;  but  in 
the  valley  of  the  Upper  Missouri  and  on  the  high 
table  lands  farther  west  such  formations  abound. 
Lieut.  Simpson,  in  his  explorations  in  New  Mex 
ico,  found  at  one  spot  "  high  sandstone  rocks 
of  almost  every  shape  and  character  imaginable. 
There  were  to  be  seen  at  once,  domes,  pillars, 
turrets,  pinnacles,  spires,  castles,  vases,  tables, 

THE  Jca  ROCK,  pitched  roofs,  and  a  number  of  other  objects  of 

enty  feet  hic-h  a  wel1  define(*  figurative  character." 

6iity  icet  nuru.  -»T          •»••,    *     nV     *i,      •          •       T 

Near  Mitchells  Station,  in  Lawrence  county, 
28  miles  east  of  the  above,  is  Harness  Mill  Stream  Cave.  Water  flows  out  at  all 
seasons  sufficient  to  furnish  motive  power  fora  saw  mill,  grist  mill,  and  a  distillery 
located  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  opening.  It  is  owned  by  Mr.  Hugh 
Hamer.  The  source  of  the  stream  has  never  been  ascertained.  At  the  time  of 
the  construction  of  the  railroad,  two  of 
the  surveyors  attempted  to  explore  it  to 
its  source.  They  entered  it  in  a  canoe, 
and  were  absent  two  days  and  the  in 
tervening  night,  penetrating  it,  as  they 
judged,  about  nine  miles,  and  without 
reaching  its  termination.  No  particular 
change  was  found  in  the  dimensions  of 
the  cavity,  excepting  an  occasional  open 
ing  out  into  large  chambers.  Such  an 
exploration  in  certain  seasons  would  be 
perilous.  Often,  after  a  hard  shower  of 
rain,  the  water  suddenly  rises  and  pours 
out  in  such  a  volume  as  to  completely  fill 
up  the  mouth  of  the  cavern,  issuing  from 
it  like  water  from  the  pipe  of  a  fire  en 
gine.  In  1856,  Capt.  John  Pope,  of  the 
corps  of  U.  S.  topographical  engineers, 
discovered  a  similar  curiosity  near  the 
base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  about 
lat.  32  deg.  and  long.  105  deg.,  which  he 
named  Phantom  River.  A  stream  of 
some  60  feet  in  width  came  out  of  one 
cave,  ran  150  feet  in  daylight,  and  then 
plunging  into  another  by  a  cascade  of  a  great  but  unknown  depth,  was  seen  no 
more. 


HAMER'S  MILL  STREAM  CAVE. 

It  has  been  explored  about  nine  miles  in  a  canoe. 
It  furnishes  motive  power  for  two  mills  and  a  dis 
tillery. 


Beside  the  towns  described,  Indiana  contains  numerous  others  of  from 
1,500  to  2,500  each.  These  are  mostly  county  seats,  some  of  them  on  rail 
road  lines,  and  places  of  active  business.  They  are,  Attica,  in  Fountain 


INDIANA.  269 


county;  Aurora,  in  Dearborn  county;  Cambridge  City,  in  Wayne  county; 
Cannelton,  in  Perry  county  ;  Columbus,  in  Bartholomew  county  ;  Connersville, 
in  Fayette  county ;  Delphi,  in  Carroll  county ;  Franklin,  in  Johnson  county ; 
Goshen,  in  Elkhart  county;  Greensburg,  in  Decatur  county;  Huntington,  in 
Huntington  county;  Mishawaka,  in  St.  Joseph  county;  Mt.  Vernon,  in 
Posey  county;  Muncie,  in  Delaware  county;  Peru,  in  Miami  county;  Prince 
ton,  in  Gibson  county ;  Rising  Sun,  in  Ohio  county ;  RocJcmlky.  in  Parke 
county;  and  Shelbyville,  in  Shelby  county. 


Volunteers  of  Indiana,  at  the  State  Capitol,  on  their  departure  for  the 

to  "  Remember  Buena  Vibta." 


THE   TIMES 

OP 

THE      REBELLION 

IN 

INDIANA. 


INDIANA  has  been  most  prominent  in  her  endeavors  to  preserve  the 
integrity  of  the  union,  the  proof  of  this  is  found  in  the  fact  that  up 
to  January  1,  1865,  she  had  furnished  165,314  men  for  the  suppression 
of  the  rebellion. 

A  stigma  of  cowardice  cast  upon  Indiana  troops  by  Jeff.  Davis  dur 
ing  the  Mexican  war,  has  been  effectually  avenged  by  their  conduct 
on  many  a  bloody  field.  More  than  one  regiment  on  departing  from 
the  state  capital  for  the  seat  of  war,  on  bended  knees,  *with  unbared 
heads  and  raised  hands,  took  an  oath  to  "KEMEMBER  BUENA  YISTA." 
How  that  vow  was  kept  was  learned  in  sorrow  wherever  the  enemies 
of  the  union  met  the  heroic  men  of  Indiana.  Her  patriotic  and  ener 
getic  governor  thus  truly  speaks  of  them : 

"It  affords  me  great  gratification  to  state  that  the  Indiana  officers, 
as  a  body,  have  been  found  equal  to  those  of  any  other  state;  that 
they  have,  upon  every  battle-field,  nobly  sustained  the  great  cause, 
and  shed  luster  upon  the  flag  under  which  they  fought.  Many  have 
been  appointed  to  high  commands,  in  which  they  acquitted  themselves 
with  the  greatest  honor  and  ability,  and  very  many  have  nobly  laid 
down  their  lives  in  battle  for  their  country.  Our  private  soldiers 
have  behaved  with  uniform  and  distinguished  gallantry  in  every  ac 
tion  in  which  they  have  been  engaged.  They  form  a  part  of  every 
army  in  the  field,  and  have  been  among  the  foremost  in  deeds  of  dar 
ing,  while  their  blood  has  hallowed  every  soil.  Hitherto  engaged  in 
the  peaceful  pursuits  of  trade  and  agriculture,  they  have  manifested 
that  lofty  courage  and  high-toned  chivalry  of  which  others  have  talked 
so  much  and  possessed  so  little,  and  which  belongs  only  to  the  intelli 
gent  patriot  who  understands  well  the  sacred  cause  in  which  he  draws 
his  sword.  Thousands  have  fallen  the  victims  of  an  unnatural  rebel 
lion.  They  were  fighting  from  deep  convictions  of  duty  and  the  love 
they  bore  their  country.  Their  unlettered  graves  mark  an  hundred 
battle-fields,  and  our  country  can  never  discharge  to  their  memory 
and  their  posterity  the  debt  of  gratitude  it  owes.  That  gratitude 
should  be  testified  by  the  tender  care  we  take  of  their  families  and 
(271) 


'  272  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

dependent  ones  whom  they  have  left  behind,  and  by  the  education  of 
their  children." 

Much  that  he  praises  was  the  result  of  his  own  exertions,  for  rarely 
has  any  man  possessed  the  power  to  infuse  so  much  of  his  own  spirit 
into  the  loyal  masses  as  OLIVER  P.  MORTON,  "the  SOLDIERS'  FRIEND;  " 
and  not  only  the  men  of  his  own  state,  but,  as  has  been  said,  all  the 
loyal  men  of  the  country  owe  him  a  debt  of  gratitude.  "  His  oratorical 
labors  during  the  war  were  grandly  faithful  and  effective.  The  splendid 
canvass  he  made  in  the  fall  of  1864  was  a  fitting  climax  to  an  admin 
istration  distinguished  above  that  of  all  other  governors  for  its  suc 
cess  as  well  as  arduousness.  With  a  legislature  against  him  of  the 
imost  factious  and  disloyal  character,  which  did  its  utmost  to  bind  his 
hands,  with  a  most  formidable  organization  of  traitors  in  his  midst, 
all  the  while  plotting  insurrection,  with  a  party  opposition  of  un- 
equaled  virulence,  he  has  yet  kept  Indiana  the  very  foremost  of  all 
the  western  states — we  may  in  truth  say  of  all  the  states — in  filling 
its  quotas  and  meeting  every  call  of  the  government.  His  peculiar 
success  has  been  owing  to  great  executive  abilities,  combined  with  a 
public  devotion,  whith  not  only  nerved  him  to  tireless  endeavor,  but 
which  elevated  him  above  all  personal  jealousies  and  challenged  uni 
versal  respect." 

The  prompt  aid  rendered  by  him  when  Kirby  Smith  threatened 
Cincinnati  was  acknowledged  by  the  action  of  the  city  council,  in  pro 
curing  his  portrait  to  adorn  their  place  of  meeting.  It  was  by  the 
well-known  poet-painter,  T.  B.  Read,  who,  in  a  public  address,  de 
livered  in  Indianapolis,  thus  stated  the  origin  of  the  order  for  the 
picture  he  had  made. 

When  the  rebels  advanced  through  Kentucky,  crushing  with  overwhelming 
might  our  gallant  but  undisciplined  forces,  at  Kichmond,  and  the  border  was 
threatened — Cincinnati  exposed  to  pillage — the  fair  fields  of  the  north  open  to 
ravage  and  robbery — Governor  Morton,  at  the  call  of  the  distressed  neighbors  of 
Ohio,  poured  over  a  flood  of  the  heroic  men  who  have  since  won  honor  on  every 
line  of  latitude  north  of  the  Gulf,  helped  to  check  the  rebel  advance,  supplied 
ammunition,  no  where  else  to  be  procured,  and  saved  the  northwest,  and  Cincin 
nati  especially,  from  the  horrors  of  sack,  rapine,  robbery  and  flames.  For  this 
timely  service,  the  city  council  of  Cincinnati  unanimously  resolved  to  do  him  such 
honor  as  they  could  by  placing  his  portrait  in  their  hall,  as  the  embodiment  of 
the  patriotism  and  neighborly  love  ot  Indiana,  and  as  a  precious  heirloom  to  pos 
terity,  and  paid  me  the  compliment  (perhaps  unwisely)  of  selecting  me  to  paint 
it  Thus  called  to  your  city,  I  can  not  forbear  some  further  allusion  to  one  whose 
services  and  honors  constitute  her  proudest  boast — and  not  her  alone,  but  your 
state ;  and  whose  efforts,  rising  always  to  the  level  of  any  emergency,  directed 
by  a  sagacity  never  dimmed  by  clouds  of  failure  or  fear,  will  yet  make  him,  as 
his  glory,  widening  and  deepening,  as  it  moves  on  toward  the  future,  the  equal 
pride  of  our  whole  country. 

MORGAN'S  INVASION  OF  INDIANA. 

On  the  7th  of  July,  1863,  the  steamer  J.  T.  McCombs  landed  at 
Brandenburg,  Kentucky,  just  as  Morgan's  advance-guard  entered  the 
town.  They  seized  the  boat,  robbed  the  passengers,  and  then  taking 
her  into  the  middle  of  the  river,  cast  anchor,  and  by  the  stratagem  of 
hoisting  a  signal  of  distress,  succeeded  in  capturing  the  Alice  Dean, 
which  was  then  passing  up  the  river.  By  means  of  these  vessels, 
Morgan  transported  his  army  to  the  Indiana  side,  and  immediately  be- 


IN  INDIANA.  273 

gan  his  work  of  plunder  and  ruin.  When  the  report  reached  the  cap 
ital,  that  Morgan  with  6,000  men  had  entered  the  state,  the  governor 
called  on  the  citizens  to  turn  out  for  its  defense ;  and  within  forty 
eight  hours  65,000  men  had  tendered  their  services  to  drive  the  inva 
der  from  the  soil.  The  correspondent  of  the  Cincinnati  Commercial 
thus  tells  what  he  saw  and  heard  in  the  hoosier  state,  during  this  ex 
citing  period. 

Journeying  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  road  last  Friday  evening,  we  had 
barely  cleared  the  border  of  Ohio  when  we  observed  knots  of  rustic  men,  armed 
with  shot-guns  or  squirrel-rifles,  climbing  about  the  train.  Many  were  mere  strip- 
Clings,  wearing  on  their  hands  and  cheeks  the  sun's  livery;  many  were  old  menT 
whose  features  wore  the  bronze  of  half  a  century  of  harvests.  They  did  not 
know  where  to  stop.  The  conductor  would  not  tell  them.  At  each  station  thia 
scene  would  be  repeated ;  and  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  regular  militia- 
trains  had  all  day  been  drumming  recruits  together  and  bearing  them  to  strate 
gical  points.  The  squads  of  whom  we  write  had  walked  many  weary  miles  from 
the  interior,  with  no  other  solicitation  than  a  vague  knowledge  of  the  exigency. 
The  rebels  were  in  Indiana  somewhere ;  that  brought  down  the  battered  old  fowl 
ing  pieces. 

At  Seymour,  on  Friday  evening,  some  2,500  militia  were  assembled,  and  in  com 
mand  of  General  Love.  An  artillery  company  from  Aurora,  with  two  6-pounders, 
was  present.  This  place  was  really  threatened  on  that  evening,  Morgan  having 
taken  a  northeasterly  road  from  Salem  in  the  afternoon.  It  has  smote  been  ascer 
tained  that  he  arrived  at  the  two  very  important  structures  on  the  Ohio  and  Mis 
sissippi  railroad,  over  White  river,  but  the  hardy  farmers  among  the  knobs  in 
that  vicinity  obstructed  the  roads  so  thoroughly,  by  fallen  timber,  that  the  de 
tachment  sent  for  the  purpose,  lost  its  way,  and  barely  managed  to  return  to  the 
main  body.  All  trains  were  halted  at  Seymour  that  night.  Morgan  was  known 
to  be  moving  in  the  southwest  angle  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Jefferson ville 
and  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  railroads,  and  was  certain  to  strike  one  or  the  other 
before  morning.  The  blow  fell  on  the  former,  lightly. 

At  daybreak,  our  train  was  ordered  to  proceed  cautiously  westward.  The  en 
gine  prowled  stealthily  over  the  dew-drenched  rails,  with  its  great,  dazzling  eye 
darting  into  the  gray  obscurity  of  morning — a  reconnoitering  automaton,  fearless 
of  ambuscade.  The  bridges  were  safe.  We  taxed  the  raiders  with  lack  of  enter 
prise,  while  we  rejoiced  at  the  preservation  of  a  vital  spot  in  western  railroad 
economy. 

At  Mitchell,  the  militia  were  assembled  some  2,000  strong.  Washington  county 
was  represented  by  a  full  regiment,  and  contiguous  counties  in  proportion.  Here 
we  saw  several  companies  sworn  to  national  allegiance  and  obedience  to  superior 
officers.  It  was  an  impressive  sight.  They  stood  with  heads  bared  and  hands 
uplifted  at  awkward  angles,  but  with  an  appearance  of  feeling  a  sacred  sincerity. 
The  youngsters  went  through  the  ceremony  with  diffident  graveness ;  but  in  some 
of  the  old  grandsires'  eyes  we  caught  the  proud  flash  of  souls  which  had  hurled 
defiance  at  Indian  and  Britton,  and  having  grandly  protected  the  flag  through  the 
weakness  of  infancy,  were  not  willing  to  have  it  go  down,  and  least  of  all  in  the 
valleys  that  their  pioneer  hands  had  opened  and  enriched.  We  noticed  among 
the  militia  at  all  points,  a  large  number  clad  either  wholly  or  partly  in  federal 
uniform  ;  many,  indeed,  had  full  accoutrements.  These  were  the  discharged  and 
resigned  of  our  regular  armies.  A  practiced  eye  could  have  told  this  without  the 
aid  of  their  clothes  and  equipments.  They  carried  their  guns  on  the  shoulder,  at 
the  precise  angle  which  the  old  soldier  falls  into  after  trying  all  others.  It  swings 
lightly  with  his  motions,  and  perches  there  jauntily  after  long  marches.  Some  of 
the  ex-privates  were  captains  now;  all  were  subjects  of  numberless  inquiries, 
and,  between  drilling  and  teaching  the  neophytes  how  to  harness  themselves, 
their  time  was  completely  occupied. 

It  became  evident  that  there  would  be  no  fighting  at  Mitchell.  Having  the 
newspaperial  Sunday  (which  is  also  the  Israelite  day  of  rest)  before  us,  we  con 

18 


274  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

eluded  that  a  visit  to  Salem,  the  scene  of  rebel  pillage  on  the  preceding  day,  would 
afford  a,  point  d'ctppui  for  a  little  effective  correspondence.  We  soon  found  a 
construction  train  bound  for  the  first  burnt  bridge  on  the  New  Albany  and  Chi 
cago  road,  and  were  permitted  to  accompany  it. 

Salem  is  the  county  seat  of  Washington,  some  forty  miles  north  of  New  Al 
bany.  It  is  not  an  attractive  town  in  appearance,  though  having  the  marks  of 
thrift  and  enterprise.  Morgan  entered  it  on  Friday,  at  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  having 
moved  rapidly  from  his  landing-place  opposite  Brandenburg  by  obscure  roads. 
Col.  Heffren,  a  resident  of  the  town  and  its  leading  political  spirit,  heard  of  his 
approach  in  time  to  partially  organize  some  three  or  four  hundred  horsemen,  just 
in  time  to  find  the  guerrillas  in  range  with  artillery  planted.  The  militia  force 
was  but  partially  armed,  and  it  was  forced  to  comply  with  the  demand  to  surrender. 
A  number  skedaddled  during  the  parley,  but  the  majority  were  turned  over  by 
Colonel  Heffren  to  Morgan,  who  paroled  and  released  them.  The  rebel  forces  en 
tered  the  town  in  fine  order,  and  a  sort  of  half  organized  system  of  pillage  in 
dulged  in  forthwith.  Clothing  stores  were  robbed,  and  the  rebels  replaced  their 
tatters  with  their  contents,  making  the  transfer  shamelessly  in  the  open  streets. 
Whatever  struck  the  fancy  of  a  rebel,  found  a  speedy  route  to  his  possession. 
The  depot,  a  roomy  and  substantial  brick  edifice,  was  fired  and  consumed,  with  a 
fine,  new  passenger  car  and  four  box  cars.  The  flames  spread  to  an  adjoining 
livery  stable,  but  Morgan  ordered  out  a  strong  detachment,  with  buckets,  and  had 
it  extinguished.  From  Wash.  Depaw,  and  Knight,  and  Smith,  he  demanded  $1,000 
each,  threatening  to  destroy  their  mills  if  the  requisition  was  not  filled.  The 
money  was  paid  and  formally  receipted. 

A  squad  destroyed  five  small  bridges,  burned  two  fine  water  tanks,  and  burned 
all  cattle  guards  and  drains  for  eight  miles  on  the  railroad.  A  train  barely 
escaped  capture,  but  finally  did  so  by  dint  of  hard  running  to  the  rear.  The  en 
gineer  assured  us,  that  the' rebels  rode  magnificently,  and  leaped  over  the  highest 
fences  without  hesitation.  This  is  about  all  the  visible  damage  done  the  town, 
though  the  losses  of  the  merchants  must  be  considerable.  A  well-to-do  former, 
named  John  Wyble,  residing  near  Livonia,  in  Washington  county,  was  ordered 
to  halt,  while  riding  away  from  town,  but,  being  hard  of  hearing,  he  did  not  obey. 
He  was  shot  down  and  killed  instantly.  Another,  named  Puthoff,  was  shot  for 
breaking  his  gun,  but  will  probably  recover.  A  man  named  Vance  was  also  se 
riously  wounded. 

During  the  halt  in  the  town,  Morgan  sat  in  front  of  the  leading  hotel,  with  feet 
cocked  in  the  air,  smoking  expensive  cheroots.  Colonel  Heffren  conversed  with 
him,  and  told  the  rebel  that  he  would  find  the  state  ready  for  him.  Morgan  said 

IK  didn't  care  a ;  he  had  marked  out  his  route  and  would  pursue  it;  to  that 

end  would  fight  everything  that  come  in  his  way. 

Attached  to  the  rebel  band,  were  about  one  hundred  negroes  who  acted  as 
waif  ,i*s.  Morgan's  black  waiter  rode  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  staff.  One 
of  the  darkies  seemed  to  be  in  high  favor  with  the  entire  command.  This  negro, 
about  noon,  procured  a  national  flag,  tied  it  to  a  mule's  tail  and  rode  through  the 
streets  at  a  break-neck  pace,  swearing  at  the  yellow,  lantern-jawed  Yankees,  as 
he  termed  them,  whenever  he  came  near  a  citizen.  The  negroes  were  all  exceed 
ingly  impertinent,  and  this  trait  seemed  to  confer  infinite  pleasure  on  their  mas 
ters. 

At  four  o'clock  p.  M.  they  left  the  town,  taking  one  of  the  roads  to  the  north 
ward.  They  had  demanded  and  received  the  choicest  food,  and  had  almost  en 
tirely  re-uniformed  themselves.  They  gathered  during  the  halt,  including  those 
captured  from  the  militia,  several  hundred  horses,  and  left  the  "played  out"  ani 
mals  wherever  it  was  convenient  to  unsaddle  them.  Even  antiquated  brood  mares 
were  stolen,  and  young,  though  dilapidated,  horses  left  in  their  stead. 

At  daylight  on  Saturday,  General  Hobson's  forces  passed  through  Salem  in  pur 
suit.  They  had  ridden  fifty  miles  the  previous  day,  and  their  horses  were  badly 
jaded.  They  impressed  what  horses  Morgan  had  not  appropriated,  and  pushed 
straight  on. 

After  leaving  Salem  and  Vienna,  Morgan's  main  force  felt  its  way  steadily  out 
of  the  state.  Detachments  on  his  flank  and  rear  committed  all  subsequent  depre- 


IN  INDIANA. 


275 


dations,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  loss  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  railroad 
bridges,  he  achieved  nothing  to  add  to  his  reputation  as  an  adroit  and  subtile  par 
tisan  leader.  The  New  Albany  and  Salein  road  was  fully  repaired  on  Monday, 
and  trains  passed  over  as  usual.  The  Louisville  and  Jeffersonville,  and  the  In 
dianapolis  and  Cincinnati  roads  are  again  intact,  and  likely  to  remain  so.  Dam 
ages  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  road  will  be  repaired  during  the  week. 

The  record  of  the  guerrilla  in  the  state  does  him  no  credit.  He  has  refused  to 
fight  the  despised  militia,  time  and  again,  and  appears,  when  pretty  well-cornered, 
to  take  the  first  dirt  road  or  bridle-path  that  offers.  If  he  has  not  deviated  from 
his  projected  route,  he  certainly  entertained  great  respect  for  our  internal  im 
provements  when  he  fixed  upon  it. 

The  voice  of  the  peace  democracy  in  Indiana  on  this  occasion  was  for  war. 
None  held  back  debating  whether  it  would  be  constitutional  to  shoot  at  a  rebel 
in  Indiana,  whatever  it  might  be  in  Virginia.  But  it  must  be  kept  in  mind  that, 
butternuts  have  horses  and  milk-houses  to  defend,  and  bitter  experience  has 
taught  them  that  the  ungrateful  rebels  jayhawk  from  all  alike.  The  guerrillas 
did  not  attempt  to  disguise  the  contempt*  they  felt  for  their  cowardly  half-way 
friends.  Lieutenant  Adams,  of  Morgan's  band,  with  a  squad,  after  burning  a 
bridge  north  of  Salem,  went  to  a  quaker-farmer's  house  hard  by,  and  asked  for 
some  milk.  The  friend  demurely  accompanied  the  lieutenant  to  the  spring-house 
and  told  him  to  help  himself  and  men.  While  drinking  the  milk,  the  following 
conversation  occurred : 

Lieutenant  Adams — "You're  a  Quaker,  ain't  you  ?" 

Friend,  (very  soberly) — "  Yea." 

Lieut.  A. — u  Then  you're  an  abolitionist?" 

Friend,  (soberly) — "  Yea." 

Lieut.  A.  (fiercely) — "  A  staunch  union  man  ?  " 

Friend,  (emphatically) — "  Yea." 

Lieut  A.  (after  a  pause) — u  Got  any  butternuts  around  here  ?  " 

Friend—"  Yea." 

Lieut.  A. — "Then  why  in ,  don't  you  hang  them?  We  have  a  way  of 

choking  such  people  down  our  way." 

The  ignorant  classes  in  the  rural  districts  talk  of  nothing  but  " gerillus"  and 
are  in  fearful  tremor  lest  the  "  reebils  should  come  and  burn  more  breedges.'' 
We  saw  a  rascally  trick  played  on  an  old  farmer,  by  some  of  the  railroad  boys 
attached  to  the  construction  train.  The  old  man  was  plodding  his  way  home 
ward  from  mill,  and  had  his  sack  of  meal  thrown  over  his  saddle  before  him. 
The  railroaders  ambushed  themselves,  and,  as  he  approached,  they  went  for  h'm 
with  a  terrific  whoop.  The  old  man  wheeled  his  horse  around,  and,  dropping 
his  meal  and  hat,  galloped  off  hotly  in  the  opposite  direction,  ducking  his  horri 
fied  countenance,  and  yelling  at  his  equally  terrified  horse.  The  boys  kep  up 
the  chase  for  nearly  a  mile,  but  the  old  gentleman  had  distanced  them  by  that 
time.  One  of  the  militia  secreted  himself  in, a  wheat-field,  and  remained  there 
for  two  days.  These,  and  like  incidents,  are  facts,  and  are  current  food  for  laugh 
ter  among  the  more  enlightened  residents  of  Washington  county. 

From  other  sources  we  gather  some 

Incidents. — Upon  reaching  Corydon,  a  general  thieving  commenced.  Watches, 
pocketbooks,  knives,  jewelry  and  liquors  were  seized  everywhere.  Hon.  Mr. 
Wolf  lost  his  watch  and  purse,  and  there  was  no  respect  paid  to  party,  so  long 
as  a  man  had  plunder.  The  jiquors  of  the  hospital,  where  some  of  their  own 
wounded  lay,  shared  the  sariie  fate  with  those  of  the  drug  stores,  hotels  and  sa 
loons.  For  a  space  of  ten  miles  in  width  every  horse  was  stolen,  and  individual 
resistants  were  insulted  or  killed.  The  same  policy  was  pursued  at  Salem,  and 
all  along  the  route.  Ransom-money  or  the  flames  were  the  alternatives  presented 
to  every  wealthy  manufacturer  or  miller,  and  everything  was  merged  in  the  one 
desire — plunder.  Singularly  enough,  greenbacks  only  were  current,  and  all 
money  was  required  to  be  in  treasury  notes.  Nearly  one  thousand  horses  were 
taken  between  the  river  and  Vienna,  and  in  Salem  alone  three  citizens  were  each 
put  to  a  ransom  of  one  thousand  dollars  to  save  their  mills. 


276  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Two  things  are  to  be  noticed.  Morgan  knew,  before  he  crossed  the  river,  who 
were  his  friends  and  who  had  arms.  Upon  entering  Corydon  he  showed  a  ii$t 
(and  so  at  Salem)  of  every  citizen  who  had  a  Henry  rifle  or  other  improved  arm, 
and  immediately  sent  patrols  to  bring  them  in.  In  Corydon  the  spy  was  a  young 
man  who  visited  there  three  weeks  before,  and  returned  with  Morgan.  At  Salein, 
a  deserter  from  the  66th  Indiana  boldly  joined  Morgan,  and  was  armed  by  him, 
but  was  subsequently  captured  and  is  now  in  the  Salem  jail. 

Good  guides  were  always  found,  and,  strange  as  it  was,  money,  in  specific  sums, 
was  demanded  from  persons  who  thought  only  their  best  friends  knew  they  had 
it.  Yet,  with  much  of  local  treason,  the  people  as  a  mass  were  true,  and  Morgan 
himself,  in  some  instances,  swore  roundly  at  some  who  boasted  that  they  were 
opposed  to  the  war,  and  repeatedly  showed  favors  to  others  who  bravely  main 
tained  their  attachment  to  the  union.  With  here  and  there  an  exception,  there 
was  no  favor  shown  the  copperheads  or  those  who  skulked  from  the  defense  of 
their  homes  in  avowed  sympathy  with  the  south.  Where  the  Knights  of  the 
Golden  Circle  were  thickest,  there  was  full  information  in  Morgan's  possession  of 
all  he  wished  to  know;  but,  when  he  got  what  he  wanted,  he  treated  his  tools  as 
badly  as  he  did  his  enemies,  and  bade  them  good-bye  by  taking  the  horses  with 
which  they  had  followed  to  guide  him. 

A  squad  of  three  rebels,  at  Salem,  went  to  the  stable  in  which  was  the  splendid 
stallion,  Tempest,  owned  by  Mr.  (ireorge  Lyman,  of  New  Albany.  On  entering 
the  stable,  Tempest  gave  the  first  rebel  a  furious  kick.  On  the  other  two  he  made 
demonstrations  with  his  teeth,  which  kept  them  at  bay.  An  officer  then  went  off, 
swearing  that  he  would  bring  a  squad  of  men  which  could  take  him.  He  started 
for  the  new  squad  of  men,  but,  in  his  absence,  the  groom  jumped  on  the  back  of 
Tempest,  rode  away  in  a  gallop,  and  soon  passed  beyond  the  rebel  lines.  The 
animal  was  valued  at  $1,000. 

Mr.  William  Clark  and  another  man  were  sent  out  south  of  Salem,  for  the  pur 
pose  of  learning  what  the  pickets  had  heard  of  the  coming  rebels.  They  fell  in 
with  the  enemy,  some  of  whom  proposed  to  trade  horses.  The  two  men  swapped 
horses  with  them  over  twenty  times,  and  one  of  them  came  out  with  a  better 
horse  than  he  began  with.  They  both  said  it  was  the  greatest  day  of  horse- 
trading  they  ever  had. 

In  Clark  county,  there  was  found  a  man,  who,  thinking  to  save  his  horse,  pro 
fessed  to  be  a  southern  rights'  man.  Morgan  told  him  he  ought  to  be  willing  to 
do  something  for  *'  the  cause,"  and  asked  what  he  would  give  to  have  his  horse 
spared.  He  answered,  "  Forty  dollars,"  which  was  paid ;  but,  to  the  sympathi 
zer's  chagrin,  the  horse  was  taken  also. 

Morgan's  invasion  of  Indiana  was  but  a  flight  from  the  union  troops 
of  Gen.  Hobson.  He  left  the  state  on  the  Ohio  border,  and  the  further 
history  of  his  ride  is  given  elsewhere  in  this  work. 

Indiana  suffered  somewhat  from  the  disloyal  elements  upon  her  own 
soil.  Governor  Morton,  in  his  message  of  1864,  gives  this  brief  sketch 
of  what  has  been  termed  the  "  great  conspiracy  "  of  the  Knights  of  the 
Golden  Circle,  which,  for  a  time,  appeared  ominous  of  evil. 

Some  misguided  persons  who  mistook  the  bitterness  of  party  for  patriotism, 
and  ceased  to  feel  the  obligations  of  allegiance  to  our  country  and  government, 
conspired  against  the  state  and  national  governments,  and  sought  by  military 
force  to  plunge  us  into  the  horrors  of  revolution.  A  secret  organization  had 
been  formed,  which,  by  its  lectures  and  rituals,  included  doctrines  subversive  of 
the  government,  and  which,  carried  to  their  consequences,  would  evidently  re 
sult  in  the  disruption  and  destruction  of  the  nation.  The  members  of  this  or 
ganization  were  united  by  solemn  oaths,  which,  if  observed,  bound  them  to  exe 
cute  the  orders  of  their  grand  commanders  without  delay  or  question,  however 
treasonable  or  criminal  might  be  their  character.  I  am  glad  to  believe  that  the 
great  majority  of  its  members  regarded  it  merely  as  a  political  machine,  and  did 
not  suspect  the  ulterior  treasonable  action  contemplated  by  its  leaders,  and  upon 
the  discovery  of  its  true  character,  hastened  to  abjure  all  connection  wit  it. 


IN  INDIANA.  277 

Some  of  the  chief  conspirators  have  been  arrested  and  tried  by  the  government, 
and  others  have  fled ;  their  schemes  have  been  exposed  and  baffled,  and  we  may 
reasonably  hope  that  our  state  may  never  again  be  endangered  and  dishonored  by 
the  renewal  of  these  insane  and  criminal  designs. 

On  the  20th  of  May,  1864,  a  butternut  mass  meeting  was  held  at 
Indianapolis.  This  had  long  been  preparing,  and  was  dreaded  as  an 
event  likely  to  bring  the  horrors  of  civil  war  upon  the  state.  From 
far  and  near  the  disloyal  and  disappointed  elements  had  been  gather 
ing  for  this  great  meeting.  In  the  result,  however,  *the  apprehended 
opening  of  bloody  tragedies,  partook  of  much  of  Ihe  comic  in  its  na 
ture,  judging  from  the  account  given  of  it,  the  next  day,  in  the  In 
dianapolis  Journal,  which  properly  belongs  to  the  history  of  the  times. 

We  do  not  know  whether  the  managers  of  the  mass  meeting  (May  20,  j  are 
satisfied  with  its  numbers  or  result,  but  are  sure  that  union  men  have  no  cause 
for  discouragement  in  either.  It  was  a  large  meeting,  and  it  contained  a  most 
offensively  visible  element  of  as  mean  treason  as  ever  went  unpunished,  but  it  was 
not  large  enough  to  be  alarming,  and  its  action  was  by  no  means  as  unanimous  or 
mischievous  as  those  who  called  it  together  hoped  to  make  it.  There  were  pro 
bably  ten  thousand  persons  present — certainly  not  more — and  these  included,  as 
the  progress  of  the  proceeding  proved,  a  very  large  proportion  of  union  men.  We 
expected  a  larger  crowd,  and  we  strongly  suspect  that  the  more  sanguine  and 
sanguinary  of  the  copperheads  regard  it  as  a  failure.  There  was  but  one  stand 
for  speakers,  and  the  crowd  around  that  was  at  no  time  larger  than  the  crowd 
around  the  same  stand  at  the  union  convention  in  February,  1864,  when  Governor 
Johnson  was  speaking,  and  two  other  stands  were  occupied  and  surrounded  by 
immense  audiences  at  the  same  time.  The  chief  speakers,  too,  who  were  to  have 
given  character  and  impulse  to  the  affair,  did  not  come.  Seymour  excused  him 
self,  Vallandigham  was  prevented  by  "  circumstances  over  which  he  had  no  con 
trol,"  and  Cox  and  Pendleton,  of  Ohio,  staid  away  without  an  excuse.  The 
'iUurt-comings  of  orators  and  audience  were  about  equal.  Voorhees  and  Hen- 
fo'icks  had  to  fill  the  breach,  assisted  by  a  Mr.  Merrick,  of  Chicago,  and  a  Mr. 
Eden,  also  of  Illinois,  the  two  latter  men  unknown  this  side  of  the  state  line  till 
yesterday,  and  not  likely  to  acquire,  during  the  remainder  of  this  century,  a  re 
putation  robust  enough  to  bear  transplanting  outside  of  the  little  patch  it  was 
cultivated  in  at  home.  The  entertainment  was  certainly  not  luxurious,  but  it  was 
good  enough,  what  there  was  of  it,  for  the  crowd,  and  there  was  enough  of  it, 
such  as  it  was. 

But  if  the  meeting  was  incomplete,  its  result  was  no  less  so.  It  began  with  an 
exhibition  of  loyal  feeling  that  would  have  constipated  the  verbal  flatulency  of 
Voorhees  for  a  week,  and  it  ended  in  a  regular  out-and-out  union  meeting.  On 
each  side  of  the  stand  was  nailed  a  national  flag  of  rebel  disaster.  On  the  right, 
was  the  old  flag  of  the  gallant  7th,  with  "  Winchester  "  inscribed  on  it,  and  the 
bullet  holes  of  its  rebel  enemies  shining  through  it.  On  the  left,  was  the  flag  of 
the  "  old  guard,"  the  noble  13th,  torn  and  faded  in  many  a  battle  and  march.  We 
could  not  help  wondering  what  those  brave,  true  men  would  say,  if  they  could 
see  their  flags  made  to  do  honor  to  a  party  against  whom  they  had  uttered  the  se 
verest  censure  that  any  party  ever  endured,  in  solemn  and  unanimous  resolutions, 
with  whose  sentiments  they  have  no  sympathy,  and  whose  conduct  they  denounce 
without  measure.  It  was  well  that  the  7th  was  on  the  Rappahannock,  and  the 
13th  on  the  Blackwater,  or  those  flags  would  have  speedily  gone  back  to  their  hon 
ed  rest  in  the  state  library.  But  we  must  go  on  with  our  story. 

While  the  misused  flags  were  flapping  about  in  the  morning  breeze,  and  pro 
bably  a  thousand  persons  were  gathered  around  the  stand,  or  scattered  through 
the  grove,  a  union  man  mounted  the  platform  and  shouted,  "Three  cheers  for 
these  flags,  the  government  they  represent  and  the  war  they  have  done  such  gal 
lant  service  to ! "  and  about  half  the  crowd  cheered  heartily.  The  other  half 
stood  silent  and  angry.  Thus  the  meeting  began.  It  ended  still  more  strangely, 
and  disgustingly  to  all  genuine  copperhead  feeling.  When  the  question  was  put 


278  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

on  the  adoption  of  the  resolutions  a  loud  and  astoundingly-strong  negative  vote 
was  heard,  followed  immediately  by  "three  cheers  for  Lincoln,"  "-three  cheers 
for  the  war"  and  "  three  cheers  for  the  conscription  act,"  all  of  them  given  with 
a  will  and  strength  that  showed  how  big  a  kernel  of  loyalty  that  butternut  had 
contained. 

The  meeting  adjourned  in  disgust,  and  the  union  men  at  once  took  possession 
of  the  stand,  and  several  speeches  were  made,  the  most  striking  of  which  was  an 
account  of  the  treatment  of  our  prisoners  by  the  rebels,  by  a  sargeant  of  the  85th 
regiment,  whose  name  we  could  not  learn.  Thus  the  meeting  ended.  Its  resolu 
tions,  like  its  body,  were  an  unfinished  production.  We  are  informed  that  in  the 
committee  no  less  than  three  sets  were  introduced,  one  rabidly  treasonable,  one 
moderate,  and  the  other  tolerably  loyal.  The  first  set  was  rejected  at  once.  The 
other  two  were  finally  patched  into  a  report,  which  is  more  remarkable  for  what 
it  don't  say  than  what  it  does.  It  denounces  arbitrary  arrests,  and  military  usur 
pations,  and  denounces  the  arrest  of  Vallandigham,  but  it  dorit  denounce  the 
rebels,  it  don't  denounce  the  war,  it  don't  declare  opposition  to  the  conscription 
act,  and  it  don't  indorse  the  repudiation  of  the  interest  on  the  public  debt,  nor  it 
don't  demand  that  the  interest  shall  be  paid.  It  is  a  queer  medley.  The  meet 
ing  was  a  queer  medley.  There  was  disloyal  feeling  in  it,  and  enough  of  it,  but  it 
didn't  get  to  say  what  it  wanted  to,  or  do  what  it  came  for. 

Incidents. — While  the  great  body  of  the  meeting  was  orderly,  evidently  indis 
posed  to  excite  a  disturbance,  and  evidently  in  no  expectation  of  encountering 
one — a  fact  which  we  gladly  attest — there  was  a  considerable  section  of  it  eager 
for  a  row,  and  well-armed  to  make  a  row  a  serious  affair. 

The  number  of  revolvers  seen,  fired  and  captured  during  the  day  is  almost  in 
credible.  At  the  police  court  about  forty  were  taken  from  persons  arrested  for 
"  carrying  concealed  weapons."  On  the  Lafayette  train,  as  it  was  returning  in 
the  evening,  pistols  were  fired  in  such  numbers  as  to  resemble  the  "  fire-at-will  " 
practice  of  a  regiment.  It  was  a  perfect  fusilade  till  the  weapons  were  emptied, 
and  that  they  had  to  be  emptied  at  all  is  an  ugly  proof  that  they  were  brought 
here  for  no  pacific  purpose.  On  the  Terre  Haute  train  fully  five  hundred  shots 
were  fired.  This  occurred  just  west  of  the  soldier's  home,  and  the  bullets  flew 
over,  around  and  into  the  home  as  thickly  as  if  it  were  a  union  hospital  in  range 
of  rebel  rifles.  They  rattled  on  the  roof,  fell  on  the  floor  and  whizzed  through 
the  trees,  and  the  adjacent  buildings  received  a  liberal  share  of  the  same  storm. 
It  may  have  been  accidental,  but  the  bullets  didn't  get  into  the  pistols  accident 
ally.  The  soldiers,  used  as  they  were  to  being  shot  at,  were  no  little  surprised  at 
thi-i  unexpected  volley.  From  one  of  them,  we  learn  the  facts  we  have  stated. 

On  the  Cincinnati  train,  also,  a  great  many  shots  were  fired,  and  in  a  part  of 
the  city  where  lives  might  have  been  lost  by  it.  So,  too,  on  the  Peru  train.  These 
little  exhibitions  of  copperhead  sentiment  were  not  lost  on  the  military  authori 
ties.  A  gun  was  placet!  on  the  track  of  the  Central  road  near  >»ew  Jersey  street, 
before  the  excursion  train  left,  to  stop  it  if  any  such  dangerous  demonstrations 
were  made.  The  tram  came  up  loaded,  inside  and  out,  but  halted  before  it 
reached  the  gun,  and  backed  down  to  Virginia  avenue.  There,  an  infantry  party 
surrounded  it,  and  a  policeman  boarded  it  and  demanded  the  surrender  of  all  the 
pistols  on  it.  They  were  handed  over  to  the  number  of  nearly  200. 

The  Peru  and  Cincinnati  trains  were  also  intercepted  and  nearly  200  revolvers 
taken  from  each  one.  Altogether  about  1,000  pistols  were  thus  taken  from  per 
sons  attending  the  meeting.  Undoubtedly,  the  owners  were  Knights  of  the  Golden 
Circle,  with  whom  a  large  portion  of  the  democratic  party  have  no  sympathy. 
During  the  progress  of  the  meeting  revolvers  were  frequently  exhibited,  in  two 
cases  drawn  in  anger  on  the  guards  in  the  state-house  yard,  and  most  of  the  ar 
rests  made  in  the  yard  were  for  carrying  concealed  weapons. 

The  anticipation  of  trouble  from  these  Knights  of  the  Golden  Circle,  of  whose 
purposes  full  warning  has  been  received,  and  the  probability  of  a  collision  occur 
ring,  which  might  spread  into  a  general  riot,  induced  General  Hascall  to  order 
out  a  considerable  body  of  troops  to  protect  the  arsenal  and  other  public  property, 
and  to  suppress  any  riotous  demonstrations.  Four  companies  of  the  71st  regi- 


IN  INDIANA.  279 

ment  were  stationed  in  the  governor's  circle  all  day,  on  account  of  its  central  lo 
cation,  but  none  of  them  were  called  on  for  service,  and  they  had  a  jolly  good 
time  pic-nicking  on  the  soft  green  in  the  shade.  A  few  soldiers  were  placed  in, 
and  near,  the  state-house  yard  to  protect  the  meeting,  or  suppress  disorder,  but  no 
military  force,  except  these  patrols,  was  allowed  near  the  meeting,  though  a  good 
many  soldiers,  on  leave,  contrary  to  orders,  were  there  unarmed. 

The  proceedings  of  the  meeting  till  12  o'clock  were  undisturbed.  After  that 
time,  an  occasional  scuffle,  or  arrest  for  carrying  concealed  weapons,  made  a  dis 
turbance  on  the  skirts  of  the  crowd,  but  did  not  interfere  with  the  meeting. 

About  half-past  twelve,  Samuel  Hamill,  of  Sullivan  county,  who  had  been  upon 
the  stand  from  the  first,  and  had  got  himself  loaded  with  a  speech,  seeing  but  lit 
tle  chance  to  blow  off  his  swivel  among  so  many  big  guns,  started  another  meet 
ing  on  his  own  hook,  near  the  south  fence.  Mounting  a  dry  goods  box,  he  com 
menced  to  speak.  He  said,  "he  was  a  genuine,  live  butternut,"  and  followed  this 
interesting  declaration  with  his  opinion  of  the  condition  of  the  country.  He  said 
that  "  we  had  a  revolutionary  government  at  Richmond,  and  a  revolutionary  gov 
ernment  at  Washington,  and  that  there  was  as  much  oppression  of  the  people  by 
the  Washington  government  as  by  the  Richmond  government." 

It  this  point  he  was  interrupted  by  cries  of  "Comedown!"  "Comedown!" 
"  Come  down,  butternut"  Some  of  the  butternuts  asked  those  who  were  thus 
vociferating,  why  the  speaker  ought  to  "  come  down  ?  "  "  Because  he  compares 
our  government  to  Jeff.  Davis,'  "  was  the  answer.  The  excitement  increased  and 
the  speaker  stopped.  Some  soldiers  in  the  crowd  "  went  for  him."  He  made  no 
attempt  to  proceed  further,  but  quietly  said,  that  he  had  no  desire  to  raise  a  fuss, 
and  stepped  from  the  stand  amid  loud  applause  and  cheers  for  the  union.  No 
more  speeches  were  made  from  that  stand. 

There  was  no  disturbance  after  this,  of  any  consequence,  till  Mr.  Hendricks 
had  been  speaking  some  time.  Then,  in  reply  to  some  mean,  disloyal  remark  of 
his,  a  union  man  in  the  crowd  called  out  something  which  we  did  not  hear.  A 
copperhead  seized  him,  and  he  rushed  toward  the  stand.  A  scuffle  followed, 
which  was  ended  by  the  soldiers  entering  the  crowd  and  taking  off  the  man  who 
committed  the  assault  Mr.  Hendricks  finished  his  speech,  though  interrupted 
occasionally  and  improperly,  and  the  resolutions  of  the  committee  were  read  by 
Mr.  Buskirk  and  adopted,  and  the  meeting  adjourned  si  tie  die,  regularly,  and  with 
out  any  row  at  all.  It  was  then  that  the  union  men  and  soldiers  took  possession 
of  the  stand,  and  held  a  meeting  of  their  own. 

We  learn  that  about  1,5(JO  revolvers  have  been  taken,  with  a  large  number  of 
knives.  One  knife,  two  feet  long,  was  found  and  taken  out  of  the  stove  in  one  of 
the  cars  of  the  Cincinnati  train.  On  one  woman  no  less  than  seven  revolvers 
were  found.  They  had  been  deposited  with  her  for  safe-keeping,  under  the  im 
pression  that  she  would  not  give  them  up.  But  she  did.  A  large  number  of  pis 
tols  were  thrown  out  of  the  windows  of  the  cars,  when  it  was  found  that  their 
possession  was  likely  to  prove  troublesome,  and  many  were  found  by  boys  on  the 
track,  or  in  the  creek  which  borders  the  other  side  of  the  track.  The  service  of 
capturing  these  implements  of  Knights-of-the-Golden-Circle  loyalty  was  performed 
chiefly  by  the  71st  boys. 

The  firing  from  the  cars,  which  forced  the  military  to  the  search  for  weapons, 
was  more  serious  than  we  at  first  supposed.  From  the  Cincinnati  train  a  number 
of  shots  struck  the  dwelling  houses  on  New  Jersey  street,  East  and  Noble  streets, 
and  several  persons  narrowly  escaped  death.  One  ball  passed  between  the  head 
of  a  woman  sitting  in  her  front  yard,  and  the  head  of  her  little  baby  whom  she 
was  holding  in  her  arms,  just  grazing  the  temple  of  the  child. 

We  also  heard  that  a  man  was  wounded  by  one  of  the  shots  from  the  Bellefon- 
taine  cars,  but  we  could  not  learn  the  truth  of  the  report.  The  bullets  that  rat 
tled  so  rapidly  around  and  through  the  soldier's  home,  we  were  told,  were  fired 
from  the  Lafayette  train  instead  of  the  Terre  Haute.  The  whole  number  of  pis 
tols  taken  will  reach  1,500  or  2,000. 


ILLINOIS. 


THE  name  of  this  state,  Illinois,  is  partly  Indian  and  partly  French :  it 
signifies  real  men,  and  was  originally  applied  to  the  Indians  who  dwelt  on 

the  banks  of  the  river  of  that  name. 
For  a  long  period  the  great  tract  of 
territory  lying  N.W.  of  the  Ohio,  was 
termed  the  "Illinois  country."  The 
first  white  men  of  whom  we  have 
any  authentic  .knowledge,  who  tra 
versed  any  part  within  the  present 
limits  of  Illinois,  were  James  Mar- 
quette,  a  Catholic  missionary,  and  M. 
Joliet,  both  Frenchmen  from  Canada. 
This  was  in  1673.  The  next  were 
Robert  de  la  Salle,  a  young  Frenchman 
of  noble  family,  and  Louis  Henncpin,  a 
Franciscan  friar.  After  leaving 
Chicago,  La  Salle  and  his  companions 
proceeded  down  Illinois  River,  and 
reached  Peoria  Jan.  4,  1680. 

The  first  settlements  in  Illinois 
were  made  by  the  French,  at  Kaskas- 
kia,  Cahokia,  and  Peoria.  It  clearly  appears  that  Father  Gravier  began  a 
mission  among  the  Illinois  before  1693,  and  became  the  founder  of  Kaskas- 
kia.  At  first  it  was  merely  a  missionary  station,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the 
village  consisted  entirely  of  natives ;  the  other  villages,  Peoria  and  Cahokia, 
seem  at  first  to  have  been  of  the  same  kind. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  the  settlements  in  Illinois  are 
represented  to  have  been  in  a  flourishing  condition.  Kaskaskia  had  become 
a  considerable  town  before  any  great  progress  had  been  made  on  the  lower 
Mississippi.  The  French  writers  of  this  period  give  glowing  descriptions  of 
the  beauty,  fertility,  and  mineral  wealth  of  the  country,  and  to  add  to  its 
attractions,  a  monastery  of  Jesuits  was  established  at  Kaskaskia. 

From  the  beginning  to  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century,  but  little  is 
related.  Disputes  arose,  between  England  and  France,  respecting  the  boun 
daries  of  their  different  colonies,  which,  unhappily,  had  never  been  sufficient 
ly  defined.  The  French,  anticipating  a  struggle  for  the  preservation  of  their 
American  possessions,  strengthened  their  fortifications  on  the  Great  Lakes, 
on  the  Ohio,  the  Wabash,  the  Illinois,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  valley  of 

(281) 


ABMS  or  ILLINOIS. 


282  ILLINOIS. 

the  Mississippi.  The  British,  on  the  other  hand,  claimed  the  country  on  the 
Ohio,  and  in  the  vicinity,  by  virtue  of  their  ancient  discoveries  and  the  char 
ters  which  they  had  granted.  The  Ohio  Company,  which  was  formed  soon 
after,  produced  hostilities  between  the  two  nations.  On  the  termination  of 
the  French  war,  by  which  Great  Britain  obtained  possession  of  Canada,  the 
whole  of  the  Illinois  country  also  came  into  their  possession.  The  total 
white  population  could  not  then  have  exceeded  3,000. 

The  following  descriptions  of  the  French  settlements  at  this  period,  and 
there  were  none  other  in  Illinois,  we  find  in  Perkins'  Annals,  the  edition  by 
J.  M.  Peck.  It  is  there  copied  from  "  The  Present  State  of  the  European 
Settlements  on  the  Mississippi,  by  Capt.  Philip  Pitman,"  published  in  Lon 
don  in  1770: 

"The  village  of  Notre  Dame  de  Cascasquias  (Kaskaskia),  is  by  far  the  most  con 
siderable  settlement  in  the  country  of  the  Illinois,  as  well  from  its  number  of  in 
habitants,  as  from  its  advantageous  situation.  * 

Mons.  Paget  was  the  first  who  introduced  water-mills  in  this  country,  and  he 
constructed  a  very  fine  one  on  the  River  Cascasquias,  which  was  both  for  grinding 
corn  and  sawing  boards.  It  lies  about  one  mile  from  the  village.  The  mill  proved 
fatal  to  him,  being  killed  as  he  was  working  it,  with  two  negroes,  by  a  party  of 
the  Cherokees,  in  the  year  1764. 

The  principal  buildings  are,  the  church  and  the  Jesuits'  house,  which,  has  a 
small  chapel  adjoining  it ;  these,  as  well  as  some  other  houses  in  the  village,  are 
built  of  stone,  and,  considering  this  part  of  the  world,  make  a  very  good  appear 
ance.  The  Jesuits'  plantation  consisted  of  two  hundred  and  forty  arpents  (a  little 
over  200  acres)  of  cultivated  land,  a  very  good  stock  of  cattle,  and  a  brewery ; 
which  was  sold  by  the  French  commandant,  after  the  country  was  ceded  to  the 
English,  for  the  crown,  in  consequence  of  the  suppression  of  the  order. 

Mons.  Beauvais  was  the  purchaser,  who  is  the  richest  of  the  English  subjects  in 
this  country;  he  keeps  eighty  slaves;  he  furnishes  eighty-six  thousand  weight  of 
flour  to  the  king's  magazine,  which  was  only  a  part  of  the  harvest  he  reaped  in 
one  year. 

Sixty-five  families  reside  in  this  village,  besides  merchants,  other  casual  people, 
and  slaves.  The  fort,  which  was  burnt  down  in  October,  1766,  stood  on  the  sum 
mit  of  a  high  rock  opposite  the  village,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  (Kaskaskia) 
river.  It  was  an  oblongular  quadrangle,  of  which  the  exterior  polygon  measured 
two  hundred  and  ninety  by  two  hundred  and  fifty-one  feet.  It  was  built  of  very 
thick  squared  timber,  and  dove-tailed  at  the  angles.  An  officer  and  twenty  sol 
diers  are  quartered  in  the  village.  The  officer  governs  the  inhabitants,  under  the 
direction  of  the  commandant  at  Chartres.  Here  also  are  two  companies  of 
militia," 

Prairie  du  Rocher.  or  "La  Prairie  de  Roches,"  as  Captain  Pitman  has  it,  is  next 
described — 

"As  about  seventeen  (fourteen)  miles  from  Cascasquias.  It  is  a  small  village, 
consisting  of  twelve  dwelling-houses,  all  of  which  are  inhabited  by  as  many  fami 
lies.  Here  is  a  little  chapel,  formerly  a  chapel  of  ease  to  the  church  at  Fort 
Chartres.  The  inhabitants  here  are  very  industrious,  and  raise  a  great  deal  of 
corn  and  every  kind  of  stock.  The  village  is  two  miles  from  Fort  Chartres.  [This 
means  Little  Village,  which  was  a  mile,  or  more,  nearer  than  the  fort.]  It  takes 
its  name  from  its  situation,  being  built  under  a  rock  that  runs  parallel  with  the 
River  Mississippi  at  a  league  distance,  for  forty  miles  up.  Here  is  a  company  of 
militia,  the  captain  of  which  regulates  the  police  of  the  village." 

Saint  Phillippe  is  a  small  village  about  five  miles  from  Fort  Chartres,  on  the 
road  to  Kaoquias.  There  are  about  sixteen  houses  and  a  small  church  standing ; 
all  of  the  inhabitants,  except  the  captain  of  the  militia,  deserted  it  in  1765,  and 
went  to  the  French  side  (Missouri).  The  captain  of  the  militia  has  about  twenty 
slaves,  a  good  stock  of  cattle,  and  a  water-mill  for  corn  and  planks.  This  village 
stands  in  a  very  fine  meadow,  about  one  mile  from  the  Mississippi." 

"The  village  of  Saint  Famille  de  Kaoquias,"  so  Pitman  writes,  "is  generally 


ILLINOIS. 

reckoned  fifteen  leagues  from  Fort  Chartres,  and  six  leagues  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri.  It  stands  near  the  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  is  marked  from  the 
river  by  an  island  of  two  leagues  long.  The  village  is  opposite  the  center  of  this 
island  ;  it  is  long  and  straggling,  being  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  one  end  to 
the  other.  It  contains  forty-five  dwelling-houses,  and  a  church  near  its  center. 
The  situation  is  not  well  chosen,  as  in  the  floods  it  is  generally  overflowed  two  or 
three  feet.  This  was  the  first  settlement  on  the  Mississippi.  The  land  was  pur 
chased  of  the  savages  by  a  few  Canadians,  some  of  whom  married  women  of  the 
Kaoquias  nation,  and  others  brought  wives  from  Canada,  and  then  resided  there, 
leaving  their  children  to  succeed  them. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  place  depend  more  on  hunting,  and  their  Indian  trade, 
than  on  agriculture,  as  they  scarcely  raise  corn  enough  for  their  own  consumption; 
they  have  a  great  plenty  of  poultry,  and  good  stocks  of  horned  cattle. 

T^he  mission  of  St.  Sulpice  had  a  very  fine  plantation  here,  and  an  excellent 
house  built  on  it.  They  sold  this  estate  and  a  very  good  mill  for  corn  and  planks, 
to  a  Frenchman  who  chose  to  remain  under  the  English  government.  They  also 
disposed  of  thirty  negroes  and  a  good  stock  of  cattle  to  different  people  in  the 
country,  and  returned  to  France  in  1764.  What  is  called  the  fort  is  a  small  house 
standing  in  the  center  of  the  village.  It  differs  nothing  from  the  other  houses,  ex 
cept  in  being  one  of  the  poorest.  It  was  formerly  inclosed  with  high  pallisades, 
but  these  were  torn  down  and  burnt.  Indeed,  a  fort  at  this  place  could  be  of  but 
little  use." 

The  conquest  of  Illinois  from  the  British,  in  1778,  by  Gen.  Geo.  Rogers 
Clark,  when  he  took  possession  of  the  forts  of  Kaskaskia,  Cahokia,  and  St. 
Vincent,  the  latter  now  the  Vincennes  of  Indiana,  was  one  of  the  irfost 
romantic  episodes  in  our  western  history.  It  made  known  the  fertile  plains 
of  Illinois  to  the  people  of  the  Atlantic  states,  exciting  an  emigration  to  the 
banks  of  the  Mississippi.  Some  of  those  in  that  expedition  afterward  were 
among  the  first  emigrants.  Prior  to  this,  the  only  settlements  in  Illinois, 
were  the  old  French  villages  of  Kaskaskia,  Cahokia,  Peoria,  Prairie  du 
llocher,  Fort  Chartres,  Fort  Massac,  Village  a  Cote,  Prairie  du  Pont,  and  a 
few  families  scattered  along  the  Wabash  and  Illinois.  In  October,  1778,  the 
general  assembly  of  Virginia  passed  an  act  to  organize  the  county  of  Illinois. 
In  1784,  Virginia  ceded  her  claims  to  the  territory  north-west  of  the  Ohio 
to  the  United  States.  This,  by  the  ordinance  of  1787,  was  erected  into  the 
North-west-  Territory.  Still  the  Illinois  country  remained  without  any 
organized  government  until  March,  1790,  when  Gov.  St.  Clair  organized  St. 
Clair  county. 

The  first  settlement  in  Illinois  by  emigrants  from  the  United  States,  was  in  1781, 
near  Bellefontaine,  Monroe  county,  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  state.  It  was 
made  by  James  Moore,  with  his  family,  accompanied  by  James  Garrison,  Robert 
Kidd,  Shadrach  Bond,  and  Larken  Rutherford.  Their  route  out  was  through  the 
wilderness  from  Virginia  to  the  Ohio,  then  down  that  stream  to  the  Mississippi, 
and  up  the  latter  to  Kaskaskia.  Part  of  them  settled  in  the  American  bottom,  near 
Harris* mvi lie.  This  station  afterward  became  known  as  the  block-house  fort. 
Other  parties  joined  them  and  the  settlements  increased.  They,  however,  suffered 
much  from  the  Indians  until  Wayne's  treaty,  in  1795,  brought  peace.  Many  were 
killed,  others  taken  captives,  and  often  while  laboring  in  the  field  they  were  obliged 
to  carry  their  rifles,  and  also  often  at  night  compelled  to  keep  guard. 

In  1800,  Illinois  formed  part  of  a  separate  territory  by  the  name  of  In 
diana,  in  conjunction  with  the  state  now  bearing  that  name.  A  second  di 
vision  took  place  in  1809,  and  the  western  portion  of  Indiana  was  formed 
into  a  separate  territory  bearing  the  name  of  Illinois.  In  1818,  Illinois  was 
erected  into  a  separate  state.  Hon.  Ninian  Edwards,  chief  justice  of  Ken 
tucky,  was  chosen  governor,  and  Nathaniel  Pope,  Esq.,  secretary.  Since  that 
period  it  has  rapidly  gone  forward,  increasing  in  population,  wealth  and  power. 


284  ILLINOIS. 

In  the  year  1812,  G-en.  Hull,  who  surrendered  Detroit  into  the  hands  of 
the  British,  directed  Capt.  Heald,  who  commanded  Fort  Dearborn,  at  Chi 
cago,  to  distribute  his  stores  to  the  Indians,  and  retire  to  Fort  Wayne.  Not 
having  full  confidence  in  the  Indians,  he  threw  the  powder  into  the  well  and 
wasted  the  whisky.  As  these  were  the  articles  they  most  wanted,  they  were 
so  exasperated  that  they  fell  upon  the  garrison,  after  they  had  proceeded  two 
miles  from  the  fort,  and  massacred  41  of  them,  with  2  women  and  12  chil 
dren,  the  latter  tomahawked  in  a  wagon  by  one  young  savage. 

In  1840,  the  Mormons  being  driven  out  of  Missouri,  located  a  city  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  which  they  called  Nauvoo.  They  had 
extraordinary  privileges  granted  them  by  the  state.  But  here,  as  elsewhere, 
numerous  difficulties  arose  between  them  and  the  inhabitants  in  the  vicinity. 
The  military  were  called  out  by  the  governor  to  suppress  the  disorders  which 
arose.  Joseph  Smith,  the  Mormon  prophet  and  leader,  with  his  brother 
Hiram,  were  imprisoned  in  a  jail  in  Carthage.  On  June  27,  1844,  they 
were  both  killed  by  a  mob,  which  broke  into  their  place  of  confinement. 
The  Mormons,  soon  after  this  event,  began  their  movement  toward  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

At  the  time  of  the  first  settlement  of  Illinois  by  the  French,  it  is  sup 
posed  that  within  the  present  limits  of  the  state,  there  were  some  eight  or 
nine  thousand  Indians.  They  are  described,  by  travelers,  as  having  been  re- 
majkably  handsome,  kind,  and  well  mannered.  When  the  French  first  came 
they  were  feasted  by  the  natives  in  four  courses,  the  first  of  hominy,  the 
second  of  fish,  the  third  of  dog,  which  the  Frenchmen  appear  to  have  de 
clined,  and  the  whole  concluded  with  roasted  buffalo.  Few  or  none  of  the 
descendants  of  the  tribes  occupying  this  region,  now  linger  within  or  around 
it,  their  titles  having  been  extinguished  from  time  to  time  by  treaties  with 
the  United  States  government.  The  white  inhabitants  were  somewhat 
annoyed  by  hostile  Indians  during  the  war  of  1812,  and  also  in  1832,  during 
the  prevalence  of  the  "Black  Hawk  war,"  which  created  much  distress  and 
alarm  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state. 

Illinois  is  bounded  N.  by  Wisconsin,  E.  by  the  southern  portion  of  Lake 
Michigan,  by  the  state  of  Indiana,  and  by  the  Ohio  River,  S.  by  the  Ohio 
River,  dividing  it  from  Kentucky,  and  W.  by  the  Mississippi  River,  divid 
ing  it  from  Missouri  and  Iowa.  It  lies  between  37°  and  42°  30'  N.  lat,,  and 
87°  17'  and  91°  50'  W.  long.,  being  about  380  miles  in  its  extreme  length 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  about  200  in  its  greatest  and  140  in  its  average  breadth 
from  E.  to  W.,  containing  upward  of  35,000,000  of  acres,  of  which,  in  1850, 
only  5,175,173  acres  were  improved,  showing  an  immense  capability  for  in 
crease  of  population  in  this  very  fertile  state,  which  has  scarcely  any  soil 
but  that  is  capable  of  cultivation. 

The  surface  is  generally  level,  and  it  has  no  mountains.  About  two 
thirds  of  it  consists  of  immense  prairies,  presenting  to  view,  in  some  places, 
immense  plains  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  beautifully  covered 
with  grass,  herbage  and  flowers.  These  prairies  are  generally  skirted  with 
wood,  near  which  are  settlements.  They  are  also,  in  many  places,  inter 
spersed  with  groups  of  trees. 

The  largest  prairie  in  Illinois  is  denominated  the  Grand  Prairie.  Under 
this  general  name  is  embraced  the  country  lying  between  the  waters  falling 
into  the  Mississippi,  and  those  which  enter  the  Wabash  Rivers.  It  does  not 
consist  of  one  vast  tract,  but  is  made  up  of  continuous  tracts  with  points  of 
timber  projecting  inward,  and  long  arms  of  prairie  extending  between.  The 


ILLINOIS.  285 

southern  points  of  the  Grand  Prairie  are  formed  in  Jackson  county,  and  ex 
tend  in  a  north-eastern  course,  varying  in  width  from  one  to  twelve  miles, 
through  Perry,  Washington,  Jefferson,  Marion,  Fayette,  Effingham,  Coles, 
Champaign,  and  Iroquois  counties,  where  it  becomes  connected  with  the 
prairies  that  project  eastward  from  the  Illinois  River.  A  large  arm  lies  in 
Marion  county,  between  the  waters  of  Crooked  creek  and  the  east  fork  of 
the  Kaskaskia  River,  where  the  Vincennes  road  passes  through.  This  part 
alone  is  frequently  called  the  Grand  Prairie. 

For  agricultural  purposes,  Illinois  is  unsurpassed  by  any  state  in  the 
Union.  In  some  of  her  river  bottoms  the  rich  soil  is  25  feet  deep.  The 
great  American  bottom,  lying  on  the  Mississippi,  80  miles  in  length,  is  of 
exceeding  fertility,  and  has  been  cultivated  for  100  years  without  apparent 
deterioration.  Illinois  is  the  greatest  corn  producing  state  in  the  Union ;  its 
yield  in  1860  was  estimated  at  100,000,000  of  bushels,  and  the  average  yield 
per  acre  at  over  50  bushels. 

Illinois  is  rich  in  minerals.  In  the  north-west  part  of  the  state  vast  beds 
of  lead  ore  abound.  Bituminous  coal  is  found  in  almost  every  county,  and 
may  be  often  obtained  without  excavation.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  many  local 
ities,  and  copper,  zinc,  etc.  There  are  salt  springs  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  state  from  which  salt  is  manufactured,  and  also  medicinal  springs  in  va 
rious  places.  Illinois  is  most  favorably  situated  for  internal  commerce.  By 
means  of  the  great  rivers  on  her  borders,  Lake  Michigan  at  the  north-east, 
and  by  her  magnificent  system  of  railroads,  she  has  great  facilities  for  com 
munication  in  every  direction.  Population,  in  1810,  was  12,282;  in  1830, 
157,445;  in  1850,851,470;  in  1860,  1,691,238. 


CHICAGO,  the  most  populous  commercial  city  of  the  north-west,  is  on  the 
western  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  about  30  miles  northward  from  its  south  end, 
at  the  mouth  of  Chicago  River,  on  the  margin  of  a  prairie  of  several  miles 
in  width.  It  is  928  miles  from  New  York,  278  from  Detroit,  180  from  Ga 
lena,  285  from  St.  Louis,  300  from  Cincinnati,  and  183  from  Springfield. 
Population,  in  1840,  4,853;  in  1850,  29,963;  and  in  1860, 109,420. 

The  following  sketch  of  the  history  of  Chicago  is  given  in  a  recent  pub 
lication  : 

The  first  explorers  of  Lake  Michigan,  the  first  white  men  to  pitch  their  tents  on 
the  Chicago  prairie,  and  to  haul  up  their  boats  upon  its  river  banks  and  lake  shore, 
were  the  French  Jesuit  missionaries  and  fur  traders,  under  the  guidance  of  Nicho 
las  Perrot,  who  was  also  acting  as  the  agent  of  the  government  in  the  west.  This 
was  in  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1669.  At  that  time  this  territory  was  in  the  pos 
session  of  the  Miami  tribe  of  Indians,  but  subsequently  the  Pottawatomies  crowded 
back  the  Miamis,  and  became  the  sole  possessors,  until  the  year  1795,  when  they 
became  parties  to  the  treaty  with  Wayne,  by  which  a  tract  of  land  six  miles  square 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Chicago  River,  was  ceded  to  the  United  States — the  first  ex 
tinction  of  Indian  title  to  the  land  on  which  Chicago  is  built.  For  nearly  a  hun 
dred  years  during  the  time  of  the  French  possession,  and  after  its  cession  to  the 
English,  Chicago  has  little  mention  in  history. 

During  this  time  it  is  only  known  from  incidental  circumstances,  that  in  those 
dark  days  of  French  possession,  there  was  a  fort  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  that 
there  were  Indian  villages  near  the  Calumet  and  on  the  Des  Plaines,  that  here 
were  the  roving  grounds  of  the  Pottawatomies,  and  that  from  the  head  waters  of 
the  Illinois  to  the  Chicago  River,  was  the  common  portage  for  the  trade  and  tran 
sit  of  the  goods  and  furs  between  the  Indians  and  the  traders,  and  that  the  ship 
ping  point  was  from  the  port  at  Chicago.  The  few  white  men  who  were  there, 


286 


ILLINOIS. 


were  there  not  for  the  purpose  of  making  settlements,  but  simply  to  carry  on  a 
trade  with  the  Indians,  the  gain  from  which  must  have  been  of  no  inconsiderable 
amount.  They  were  men  of  limited  education,  and  could  not  have  been  expected 
to  have  any  accounts  of  their  adventures.  This  state  of  things  existed  until  the 
close  of  the  general  western  Indian  war,  soon  after  the  termination  of  the  war  of 
the  revolution.  During  this  war  the  intrigue  of  the  English  was  constantly  excit 
ing  the  Indians  to  warfare,  to  such  a  degree  that,  after  peace  was  declared  between 


Chicago  in  1831. 

Fort  Dearborn  is  seen  in  the  central  part,  on  a  slightly  elevated  point,  on  the  south  side  of  Chicago 
River,  near  the  lake  shore  shown  in  front. 

the  old  and  the  new  country,  a  general  war  of  the  Indians  against  the  United 
States  broke  out.  This  war  continued  until  1795,  when,  after  having  been  severely- 
punished  by  Gen.  Wayne,  the  chiefs  of  the  several  tribes  assembled,  by  his  invi 
tation,  at  Greenville,  Ohio,  and  there  effected  a  treaty  of  peace,  thus  closing  the 
war  of  the  west.  In  this  treaty  numerous  small  tracts  of  land  were  ceded  by  the 
Indians  to  the  states,  and  among  them  was  one  described  as  "one  piece  of  land  six 
miles  square,  at  the  mouth  of  Chicajo  (Chicago)  River,  emptying  into  the  south 
west  end  of  Lake  Michigan,  where  a  fort  formerly  stood' 

This  may  be  called  the  first  "land  sale,"  and  w^hich  has  been  the  precursor  to  a 
business  which  has  entailed  to  its  participants  independence  and  wealth.  But  lit 
tle  time  passed  before  the  proprietors  thought  best  to  enter  upon  active  possession, 
and  in  1804  a  fort  was  built  upon  the  spot  by  government.  This  fort  remained 
until  the  year  1816,  when  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Indians,  at  the  time  of  the  mas 
sacre.  This  fort  was  called  Fort  Dearborn,  a  name  which  it  retained  during  its 
existence.  Its  location  was  upon  a  slightly  elevated  point  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river,  near  the  lake  shore,  and  commanded  a  good  view  of  the  lake,  the  prairie 
extending  to  the  south,  the  belt  of  timber  along  the  south  branch  and  the  north 
branch,  and  the  white  sand  hills  to  the  north  and  south,  which  had  for  so  many 
years  been  the  sport  of  the  lake  winds.  Up  to  the  time  of  the  erection  of  this  fort, 
no  white  man  had  made  here  his  home,  the  Pottawatomie  Indians  having  undis 
puted  sway.  After  the  establishment  of  the  garrison,  there  gathered  here  a  few 
families  of  French  Canadians  and  half-breeds,  none  of  whom  possessed  more  than 
ordinary  intelligence. 

The  only  link  in  the  chain  of  civilization  which  admits  of  identity,  existed  in 
the  Kinzie  family,  who  came  here  to  reside  in  1804,  the  same  year  in  which  the 
fort  was  built  John  Kinzie,  then  an  Indian  trader  in  the  St.  Joseph  country, 
Michigan,  in  that  year  became  the  first  permanent  white  resident  of  Chicago,  and 
to  him  is  due  the  honor  of  establishing  many  of  the  improvements  which  have 
made  Chicago  what  it  is.  For  nearly  twenty  years  he  was,  with  the  exception  of 
the  military,  the  only  white  inhabitant  of  northern  Illinois.  During  the  years  from 
1804  to  1820,  the  lake  trade  was  carried  on  by  a  small  sail  vessel,  coining  in  in  the 


ILLINOIS.  287 

fall  and  spring,  bringing  the  season's  supply  of  goods  and  stores  for  the  fort, 
and  taking  away  the  stock  of  furs  and  peltries  which  had  accumulated.  Mr.' 
Kinzie  pursued  the  business  of  fur  trading  until  the  breaking  out  of  hostilities 
with  the  Indians,  which  resulted  in  the  massacre  of  1812.  The  friendly  feelings 
which  had  been  cultivated  between  himself  and  the  Indians,  preserved  himself 
and  family  from  the  fate  which  befell  his  neighbors  of  the  fort.  Removing  for  a 
time,  in  1816  he  returned  to  Chicago,  and  reopened  the  trade  with  the  Indians,  re 
siding  there  until  the  time  of  his  death,  in  1828. 

It  was  a  saying  with  the  Indians  that  "the  first  white  man  who  settled  there  was 
a  negro,"  by  which  was  meant  Jean  Baptiste  Point-au-Sable,  who,  in  1796,  built 
the  first  house  in  Chicago,  which  he  afterward  sold  to  Le  Mai,  who  subsequently 
sold  it  to  Mr.  Kinzie.  In  1812  there  were  but  five  houses  outside  of  the  fort,  all 
of  which,  with  the  exception  of  that  owned  by  Mr.  Kinzie,  were  destroyed  at  the 
time  of  the  massacre.  In  August,  1816,  a  treaty  was  concluded  by  commissioners 
appointed  by  the  government,  with  the  various  Indian  tribes,  by  which  the  coun 
try  between  Chicago  and  the  waters  of  the  Illinois  Kiver  was  ceded  to  the  United 
States  on  the  4th  of  July. 

In  the  same  year,  the  troops  again  returned  to  their  former  locality,  and  a  new 
fort  was  erected,  under  the  direction  of  Capt.  Hezekiah  Bradley,  then  commander. 
It  stood  upon  the  same  ground  as  the  former  one,  and  remained  until  the  summer 
of  1856,  when  it  was  demolished  to  make  room  for  the  increasing  amount  of  business. 
The  reoccupancy  of  the  fort  by  the  troops  continued  until  May,  1823,  after  which 
time  it  was  occupied  by  the  Indian  agent,  and  used  for  the  temporary  accommoda 
tion  of  families  of  residents  recently  arrived.  On  the  10th  of  August,  1828,  the  fort 
was  again  occupied  by  a  company  of  volunteers,  and  afterward  by  two  companies 
of  regular  troops,  under  the  command  of  Major  Fowle  and  Captain  Scott.  These 
last  remained  until  May,  1831,  when  the  fort  was  given  in  charge  of  George  W. 
Dole,  as  agent  for  the  government. 

On  the  breaking  out  of  the  Black  Hawk  war,  in  1832,  it  was  reoccupied  by  a 
detachment  under  Gen.  Scott,  until  the  removal  of  the  Indians,  in  1836,  and,  until 
near  the  time  of  its  demolition,  was  held  by  the  government  for  the  occasional  use 
of  its  army  officers,  engineers  and  agents  connected  with  the  public  works.  From 
1816  to  1830,  Chicago  had  gained  the  number  of  twelve  or  fifteen  houses,  with  a 
population  of  less  than  one  hundred.  In  1818,  the  public  square,  where  now 
stands  the  court  house,  was  a  pond,  on  whose  banks  the  Indians  had  trapped  the 
muskrat,  and  where  the  first  settlers  hunted  ducks.  This  pond  had  an  outlet  in  a 
"  slough,"  as  it  was  then  called,  which  passed  over  the  present  site  of  the  Tremont 
House,  entering  the  river  at  the  end  of  btate-street.  Along  the  shores  of  the  river 
the  wild  onion  was  found  in  great  abundance,  to  which  the  Indians  gave  the  name 
Chi-kajo,  and  from  which  the  city  doubtless  derived  its  name.  In  the  autumn  of 
1829,  the  town  of  Chicago  was  laid  out,  which  is  the  part  now  known  on  the  maps 
as  the  "original  town." 

The  site  of  Chicago  is  low,  being  but  about  five  feet  above  the  lake,  but 
sufficiently  elevated  to  prevent  inundation.  "  The  general  direction  of  the 
lake  shore  here,  is  north  and  south.  The  water,  except  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  is  shoal,  and  vessels  missing  the  entrance  ground,  go  to  pieces  in  a 
storm,  within  100  rods  of  the  shore.  The  harbor  of  Chicago  is  the  river, 
and  nothing  more.  It  is  a  short,  deep,  sluggish  stream,  creeping  through 
the  black,  fat  mud  of  the  prairie,  and  in  some  places  would  hardly  be  thought 
worthy  of  a  name;  but  it  makes  itself  wonderfully  useful  here.  Outside  of 
its  mouth  a  vessel  has  no  protection,  nor  are  there  any  piers  or  wharves. 
The  mouth  of  the  river  has  been  docked  and  dredged  out,  to  afford  a  more 
easy  entrance ;  but,  after  you  are  once  in,  it  narrows  to  a  mere  canal,  from 
50  to  75  yards  in  width.  The  general  course  of  the  river,  for  about  three 
fourths  of  a  mile,  is  at  right  angles  with  the  lake  shore,  and  this  portion  is 
what  is  known  as  the  Chicago  River.  It  here  divides,  or,  more  properly,  two 
branches  unite  to  form  it,  coming  from  opposite  directions,  and  at  nearly 


288 


ILLINOIS. 


right  angles  to  the  main  stream.  These  are  called,  respectively,  the  '  North 
Branch '  and  the  '  South  Branch,'  and  are  each  navigable  for  some  four 
miles,  giving,  in  the  aggregate,  a  river  front  of  some  15  or  16  miles,  capable 
of  being  increased  by  canals  and  slips,  some  of  which  have  already  been  con 
structed.  Into  the  '  South  Branch '  comes  the  Illinois  canal,  extending  from 
this  point  100  miles  to  Lasalle,  on  the  Illinois  River,  forming  water  commu 
nication  between  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi.  For  the  want  of  a  map, 
take  the  letter  H ;  call  the  upright  column  on  the  right  hand  the  lake  shore ; 
let  the  cross-bar  represent  Chicago  River,  the  left  hand  column  will  stand 
for  the  two  branches,  and  you  have  a  plan  of  the  water  lines  of  the  city  of 
Chicago,  which  will  answer  very  well  for  all  purposes  of  general  description. 


p 


The   Court  House,   Chicago. 

The  view  is  from  the  north.    The  material  is  of  blue  lime  stone,  from  Lockport,  New  York.    On  the  left 
Is  the  Mechanic's  Institute  Hall. 

The  three  divisions  thus  formed  are  called,  respectively,  'North  Side,' 
'South  Side,' 'West  Side.'  In  this  narrow,  muddy  river,  lie  the  heart  and 
strength  of  Chicago.  Dry  this  up,  and  Chicago  would  dry  up  with  it.  mean 
and  dirty  as  it  looks.  From  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Joseph  River,  in  Michi 
gan,  round  to  Milwaukie,  in  the  state  of  Wisconsin,  a  distance,  by  the  lake 
shore,  of  more  than  250  miles,  Chicago  is  the  only  place  where  20  vessels 
can  be  loaded  or  unloaded,  or  find  shelter  in  a  storm.  A  glance  at  the  map, 
then,  will  show  that  it  is  the  only  accessible  port — and  hence  the  commer 
cial  center — of  a  vast  territory,  measuring  thousands  of  square  miles  of  the 
richest  agricultural  country  in  the  world.  On  this  fact,  and  not  on  the  pres 
ent  actual  value,  are  really  based  those  fabulous  prices  of  corner  lots  and 
wharf  improvements,  which  have  sometimes  provoked  the  sneers  of  the 
skeptic." 

Chicago  is  regularly  laid  out  with  streets  crossing  at  right  angles,  and  is 
adorned  with  many  magnificent  buildings  of  brick   and   stone,  public  and 


ILLINOIS.  289 

private,  comparing  well  with  any  city  in  this  country  or  any  other.  The 
shore  of  the  lake  and  northern  parts  of  the  city,  are  occupied  with  the  finest 
of  residences.  Some  of  the  most  remarkable  public  buildings  are,  the  Court 
House,  the  Merchants  Exchange,  the  Marine  Hospital,  the  Medical  College, 
the  Second  Presbyterian  Church,  etc.  Burch's  and  Wadsworth's  blocks,  on 
Lake-street,  are  rows  of  iron  front  stores,  that,  in  extent  and  beauty,  have  no 
equal  in  any  business  houses  in  any  city  of  Europe. 

A  very  elegant  building  material  has  recently  been  brought  into  use.  It 
is  found  in  great  abundance  about  20  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  line  of  the 
Illinois  canal.  "  It  is  a  compact  lime-stone,  of  a  pale  yellow  shade,  some 
what  lighter  than  the  celebrated  Caen  stone  of  France,  now  so  fashionable  in 
New  York.  The  grain  is  so  fine  that  the  fracture,  or  cut  surface,  resembles 
that  of  chalk  in  texture.  It  is  durable,  is  easily  wrought,  and  the  color  is 
peculiarly  pleasing  and  grateful  to  the  eye.  There  is  another  stone  of  simi 
lar  texture,  of  the  color  of  freshly  fractured  slate,  or  of  the  mark  made  on 
a  slate  by  a  pencil;  but  it  is  not  so  beautiful  as  the  kind  before  mentioned. 
It  soils  readily,  and  has,  at  a  short  distance,  the  effect  of  a  dirty  white. 
There  are  also  other  architectural  stones  in  considerable  abundance  and  va 
riety;  but  none  of  great  beauty  or  importance  have  come  under  our  ob 
servation.  The  Presbyterian  Church  on  Wabash  Avenue,  is  built  of  a  blue, 
bituminous  lime-stone,  the  pitchy  matter  of  which  has  exuded  and  run  down 
the  sides,  giving  the  building  the  appearance  of  having  a  partial  coat  of  tar. 
The  general  impression  it  produces,  is  that  of  great  antiquity;  and  if  this 
idea  could  be  preserved  and  harmonized  by  the  early  pointed  gothic,  and 
a  good  growth  of  ivy,  the  effect  would  be  very  fine." 

Until  1856,  most  of  the  streets  of  Chicago  were  planked,  and  the  build 
ings  then  erected  were  generally  without  cellars.  As  a  consequence,  in  the 
spring  of  the  year,  the  ground  asserted  its  original  character  of  swamp.  The 
planks  actually  floated,  and  as  the  heavy  wagons  passed  along,  the  muddy 
water  gushed  out  on  every  side.  Since  1856,  such  a  grade  has  been  estab 
lished,  that  when  finished,  will  raise  the  entire  city  from  two  to  five  feet. 

"  There  is,  with  almost  every  block  of  buildings,  a  change  of  grade,  some 
times  of  one  foot,  sometimes  of  three  feet,  sometimes  of  five.  These  ascents 
or  descents  are  made  by  steps,  or  by  short,  steep,  inclined  planes  of  boards, 
with  or  without  cleats  or  cross  pieces,  to  prevent  slipping,  according  to  the 
fancy  of  the  adjoining  proprietor  who  erects  them.  The  profile  of  a  Chicago 
sidewalk  would  resemble  the  profile  of  the  Erie  canal,  where  the  locks  are 
most  plenty.  It  is  one  continual  succession  of  ups  and  downs.  The  reason 
of  this  diversity  is,  that  it  was  found  necessary,  at  an  early  period  in  the 
history  of  the  place,  to  raise  the  grade  of  the  streets.  It  was  afterward  found 
necessary  to  raise  .the  grade  still  higher,  and  again  still  higher — as  each 
building  is  erected,  its  foundation  and  the  sidewalk  adjoining  have  been  made 
to  correspond  to  the  grade  then  last  established,  and  so  it  will  not  happen 
until  the  city  is  entirely  rebuilt,  that  the  proper  grade  will  be  uniformly  at 
tained.  In  the  mean  time,  the  present  state  of  things  will  repress  undue 
curiosity  in  the  streets,  and  keep  fire-engines  off  the  sidewalks,  which  is  a 
great  point  gained." 

The  process  of  raising  of  the  houses  and  stores,  in  Chicago,  is  one  of  great 
interest,  literally,  a  method  of  digging  a  great  city  out  of  the  mud.  "Build 
ings  of  brick  or  stone,  150  feet  by  200,  and  five  stories  high,  are  raised  up 
several  feet  by  a  system  of  screws,  without  a  crack  or  the  displacement  of  a 
single  thing.  A  hotel  contracts  to  be  lifted  up.  In  a  short  time  2,000 
19 


290 


ILLINOIS. 


screws  are  under  it,  and  little  by  little  the  house  rises.  Nothing  is  changed 
within.  The  kitchen  cooks,  th,e  dinning-room  eats,  the  bar  drinks,  and  all 
the  rooms  smoke,  as  if  nothing  was  going  on  I  A  block  of  stores  and  offices 


Raising  a  Block  of  Buildings  in  Chicago. 

The  entire  block  on  the  north  side  of  Lake-street,  extending  from  Clark  to  La  Salle-street,  having  a  front 
of  320  feet — is  shown  in  the  process  of  being  raised  up  four  feet  and  two  thirds,  by  6,000  screws  placed  un 
der  it ;  turned,  at  signals,  by  a  force  of  GOO  men.  Most  of  the  stores  are  180  feet  deep,  and  five  days  were 
consumed  in  the  task. 

begins  this  new  process  of  growth,  and  all  the  tenants  maintain  their  usual 
functions ;  and,  except  the  outrageous  heaps  of  dirt  and  piles  of  lumber,  every 
thing  goes  on  as  before.  The  plank  into  the  door  gets  a  little  steeper  every 
day.  But  goods  come  in  and  go  out,  and  customers  haunt  the  usual 
places." 

The  most  remarkable  feat  of  the  kind  occurred  in  Chicago,  in  the  spring 
of  1860,  when  an  immense  block  was  raised.  This  is  shown  in  our  engrav 
ing,  and  thus  described  in  the  Chicago  Press  and  Tribune  of  the  time,  under 
the  caption  of  "The  Great  Building  Raising." 

For  the  past  week  the  marvel  and  the  wonder  of  our  citizens  and  visitors  has 
been  the  spectacle  of  a  solid  front  of  first-class  business  blocks,  comprising  the  en 
tire  block  on  the  north  side  of  Lake-street,  between  Clark  and  La  Salle-streets,  a 
length  of  320  feet,  being  raised  about  four  feet  by  the  almost  resistless  lifting  force 
of  6,000  screws. 

The  block  comprises  13  first  class  stores,  and  a  large  double  marble  structure, 
the  Marine  Bank  Building.  Its  subdivisions  are  a  five-story  marble  front  block 


ILLINOIS. 


291 


of  three  stores ;  a  second  four-story  block  of  three  stores,  and  a  five-story  block  or 
four  stores,  at  the  corner  of  Clark-street — these  all  presenting  an  unbroken  front, 
in  the  heart  of  our  city,  and  filled  with  occupants. 

This  absence  from  annoyance  to  the  merchants  and  the  public  is  due  to  the  skill 
with  which  the  contractors  have  hung  the  sidewalks  to  the  block  itself,  and  carried 
up  the  same  with  the  rise  of  the  building.  The  block  has  been  raised  four  feet 
eight  inches,  the  required  hight,  in  five  days,  ending  with  Friday  last,  and  the  ma 
sons  are  now  busy  putting  in  the  permanent  supports.  The  entire  work  will  oc 
cupy  about  four  weeks. 

An  estimate  from  a  reliable  source  makes  the  entire  weight  thus  raised  to  be 
about  35,000  tuns.  So  carefully  has  it  been  done,  that  not  a  pane  of  glass  has  been 
broken,  nor  a  crack  in  masonry  appeared.  The  internal  order  of  the  block  has 
prevailed  undisturbed. 

The  process  of  raising,  as  indicated  above,  is  by  the  screw,  at  6,000  of  which, 
three  inches  in  diameter  and  of  three  eighths  thread,  600  men  have  been  employed, 
each  man  in  charge  of  from  eight  to  ten  screws.  A  complete  system  of  signals 
was  kept  in  operation,  and  by  these  the  workmen  passed,  each  through  his  series, 
giving  each  screw  a  quarter  turn,  then  returning  to  repeat  the  same.  Five  days' 
labor  saw  the  immense  weight  rise  through  four  feet  eight  inches,  to  where  it  now 
stands  on  temporary  supports,  rapidly  being  replaced  by  permanent  foundations. 
The  work,  as  it  stands,  is  worth  going  miles  to  see,  and  has  drawn  the  admiration 
of  thousands  within  the  past  week 

The  bridges  of  Chicago  are  among  the  curiosities  of  the  place.  The  nu 
merous  branches  of  the  river  require  a  large  number  of  bridges.  The  river 
being  navigable,  and  but  little  below  the  level  of  the  streets,  compels  all  of 
these  to  be  made  draw  bridges.  These  are  hung  in  the  middle,  and  turn 


_ 


South-west   View  of  the  Railroad  Depot,  Grain  Houses,  Chicago. 

The  Illinois  Central  Passenger,  and  the  freight  depot,  etc.,  are  seen  in  the  central  part.  Sturges  ami 
Buckingham's  grain  houses  standing  on  the  lake  shore,  appear  on  the  right;  each  of  which  will  conlniu 
750,000  bushels  of  grain  ;  enough,  it  is  estimated,  to  feed  the  entire  population  of  the  city  for  five  years  ; 
2'25.000  bushels  can  be  received  and  stored  in  each  of  them  in  a  single  day. 

on  a  pivot,  the  motive  power  being  two  men  standing  there  with  a  cross  lur 
The  operation  of  turning  a  bridge,  occupies  about  two  minutes.  While  tin 
process  is  going  on,  a  closely  packed  row  of  vehicles,  sometimes,  accumulates 
of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  Policemen  are  stationed  at  either  end,  to 
prevent  persons  from  driving,  jumping,  or  being  pushed  into  the  water. 
The  manufacturing  establishments  of  Chicago  are  numerous,  consisting  of 


292  ILLINOIS. 

iron  foundries  and  machine  shops,  steam  flouring,  saw  and  planing  mills, 
manufactories  of  agricultural  implements,  etc.  Numerous  steamboats  and 
vessels  ply  between  this  place  and  Buffalo,  and  the  various  places  on  the 
Upper  Lakes,  and  a  direct  trade  is  had,  by  sailing  vessels,  with  Europe, 
via  the  lakes,  Welland  canal,  River  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
The  city  is  a  great  shipping  point  for  an  immense  and  fertile  region.  The 
Illinois  and  Michigan  canal  is  60  feet  wide  at  the  top,  six  feet  deep,  and 
107  miles  long,  including  five  miles  of  river  navigation.  Through  this  is 
brought  a  large  amount  of  produce  from  the  south  and  south-west.  This  and 
the  railroads  radiating  from  Chicago,  add  to  the  vast  accumulation  which  is 
shipped  here  for  the  Atlantic  sea-board.  Chicago  is  within  a  short  distance 
from  extensive  coal  fields,  and  is  the  natural  outlet  for  the  produce  of  one  of 
the  richest  agricultural  sections  of  the  Union.  Great  quantities  of  lumber 
are  also  brought  here  by  lake  navigation. 

The  imports  of  Chicago,  in  1858,  a  year  of  general  depression,  were 
$91,000,000,  and  the  exports  $83,000,000  in  value,  equal  to  one  quarter  of 
the  whole  foreign  commerce  of  the  United  States.  The  tunnage  was  67,000 
tuns,  seven  eighths  of  which  was  in  sailing  crafts,  and  the  remainder  by 
steamers. 

The  grain  trade  of  Chicago  is,  perhaps,  the  greatest  of  any  place  in  the 
world,  averaging,  at  present,  about  30,000,000  of  bushels  yearly.  The  grain 
houses  are  all  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river  and  its  branches,  with  rail 
road  tracks  running  in  the  rear,  so  that  a  train  of  cars  loaded  with  grain 
may  be  standing  opposite  one  end  of  a  large  elevating  warehouse,  being 
emptied  by  elevators,  at  the  rate  of  from  6  to  8,000  bushels  per  hour, 
while  at  the  other  end  the  same  grain  may  be  running  into  a  couple  of  pro 
pellers,  and  be  on  its  way  to  Buffalo,  Montreal,  and  other  places  within 
six  or  seven  hours. 

The  Illinois  Central  Railroad  grain  warehouses  can  discharge  12  cars 
loaded  with  grain,  and  also  load  two  vessels  at  once,  at  the  rate  of  24,000 
bushels  per  hour ;  or  receive  from  24  cars  at  once,  at  the  rate  of  8,000  bush 
els  per  hour.  With  the  present  conveniences,  it  is  estimated  that  in  every 
10  hours  half  a  million  of  bushels  of  grain  can  be  handled. 

The  university  of  Chicago,  a  well  endowed  institution,  originated  in 
1854,  in  a  generous  donation  from  the  Hon.  Stephen  A.  Douglass  of  10 
acres,  comprising  part  of  a  beautiful  grove,  adjacent  to  the  southern  limits 
of  the  city.  It  has.  in  all  its  departments,  about  200  students.  John  C 
Burroughs,  D.D.,  is  president. 


The  most  thrilling  event  in  the  history  of  Illinois,  was  the  "  massacre  at 
Chicago"  in  the  last  war  with  Great  Britain.  There  were  then  but  five 
houses  outside  of  the  fort,  at  this  point,  then  the  trading  station  of  John 
Kinzie,  "  the  Father  of  Chicago."  The  garrison  numbered  about  75  men, 
many  of  them  old  and  inefficient  soldiers.  The  officers  in  command,  were 
Capt.  Heald,  Lieut.  Helm,  and  Ensign  Ronan,  the  latter  a  very  young  man, 
high  spirited  and  honorable. 

On  Aug.  7, 1812,  Catfish,  a  distinguished  Pottawatomie  chief,  arrived  from 
Detroit,  bringing  dispatches  from  Gen.  Hull,  giving  orders  to  Capt.  Heald 
to  evacuate  the  fort  and  distribute  all  the  United  States  property,  in  the  fort 
and  factory,  to  the  Indians,  and  then  retire  to  Fort  Wayne,  on  the  site  of  the 
city  of  that  name  in  Indiana. 


ILLINOIS.  293 

These  ill  timed,  and  as  it  proved  afterward,  fatal  orders  of  Hull,  were 
obeyed,  so  far  as  to  evacuate  the  fort;  but  even  this  was  done  by  Heald,  in 
spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  his  officers,  who  were  satisfied  of  the  evil  de 
signs  of  the  Indians.  On  the  12th,  a  council  was  held  with  the  Indians,  at 
which  Capt.  Heald  informed  them  of  his  intention  to  distribute  among  them 
the  goods  stored  in  the  factory,  together  with  the  ammunition  and  provisions 
of  the  garrison.  On  the  next  day  the  goods  were  disposed  of  as  promised ; 
but  fearing  the  Indians  might  make  a  bad  use  of  liquor  and  ammunition, 
Heald  gave  orders  for  their  destruction.  During  the  night  the  contents  of  the 
liquor  barrels  were  poured  into  the  river,  and  the  powder  thrown  into  the 
well.  This  coming  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Indians,  exasperated  them  to  a 
high  degree,  as  they  prized  these  articles  more  than  all  the  rest. 

The  15th  of  August  was  the  day  fixed  for  leaving  the  post.  The  day  pre 
vious,  Capt.  Wells,  a  relative  of  Capt.  Heald,  arrived  with  an  escort  of  15 
friendly  Miami  Indians  from  Fort  Wayne.  He  had  heard  of  the  orders  for 
the  evacuation  of  the  fort,  and  realizing  the  danger  of  the  garrison  incum- 
bered  with  the  women  and  children,  marching  through  the  territory  of  the 
hostile  Pottawatomies,  hastened  to  dissuade  his  relative  from  leaving  the 
fort.  But  he  arrived  too  late,  steps  had  been  taken,  which  made  it  as 
equally  dangerous  to  remain. 

"  The  fatal  morning  of  the  15th,  at  length  arrived.  All  things  were  in  readiness, 
and  nine  o'clock  was  the  hour  named  for  starting.  Mr.  Kinzie  had  volunteered 
to  accompany  the  troops  in  their  march,  and  had  entrusted  his  family  to  the  care 
of  some  friendly  Indians,  who  had  promised  to  convey  them  in  a  boat  around  the 
head  of  Lake  Michigan  to  a  point  on  the  St.  Joseph's  River;  there  to  be  joined  by 
the  troops,  should  the  prosecution  of  their  march  be  permitted  them.  Early  in 
the  morning  Mr.  Kinzie  received  a  message  from  To-pee-nee-bee,  a  chief  of  the 
St.  Joseph's  band,  informing  him  that  mischief  was  intended  by  the  Pottawatomies 
who  had  engaged  to  escort  the  detachment ;  and  urging  him  to  relinquish  his  de 
sign  of  accompanying  the  troops  by  land,  promising  him  that  the  boat  containing 
himself  and  family,  should  be  permitted  to  pass  in  safety  to  St.  Joseph's. 

Mr.  Kinzie  declined,  according  to  this  proposal,  as  he  believed  that  his  presence 
might  operate  as  a  restraint  upon  the  fury  of  the  savages,  so  warmly  were  the 
greater  part  of  them  attached  to  himself  and  his  family.  The  party  in  the  boat 
consisted  of  Mrs.  Kinzie  and  her  four  younger  children,  their  nurse  Grutte,  a 
clerk  of  Mr.  Kinzie's,  two  servants  and  the  boatmen,  beside  the  two  Indians 
who  acted  as  their  protectors.  The  boat  started,  but  had  scarcely  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  which,  it  will  be  recollected,  was  here  half  a  mile  below  the 
fort,  when  another  messenger  from  To-pee-nee-bee  arrived,  to  detain  them  where  they 
were.  In  breathless  expectation  sat  the  wife  and  mother.  She  was  a  woman  of 
uncommon  energy  and  strength  of  character,  yet  her  heart  died  within  her  as  she 
folded  her  arms  around  her  helpless  infants,  and  gazed  upon  the  march  of  her  hus 
band  and  eldest  child  to  certain  destruction. 

As  the  troops  left  the  fort,  the  band  struck  up  the  Dead  March.  On  they  came 
in  military  array,  but  with  solemn  mien.  Capt.  Wells  took  the  lead  at  the  head 
of  his  little  band  of  Miamis.  He  had  blackened  his  face  before  leaving  the  garri 
son,  in  token  of  his  impending  fate.  They  took  their  route  along  the  lake  shore. 
When  they  reached  the  point  where  commenced  a  range  of  sand  hills,  inter 
vening  between  the  prairie  and  the  beach,  the  escort  of  Pottawatomies,  in  num 
ber  about  500,  kept  the  level  of  the  prairie,  instead  of  continuing  along  the 
beach  with  the  Americans  and  Miamis.  They  had  marched  about  half  a  mile 
south  ot  the  present  site  of  the  Round  House  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  when 
Capt.  Wells,  who  had  kept  somewhat  in  advance  with  his  Miamis,  came  riding  fu 
riously  back.  'They  are  about  to  attack  us,'  shouted  he;  'form,  instantly,  and 
charge  upon  them.'  Scarcely  were  the  words  uttered,  when  a  volley  was  showered 
from  among  the  sand  hills.  The  troops  were  hastily  brought  into  line,  and 


294  ILLINOIS. 

charged  up  the  bank.  One  man,  a  veteran  of  70  winters,  fell  as  they  ascended. 
The  remainder  of  the  scene  is  best  described  in  the  words  of  an  eye-witness  and 
participator  in  the  tragedy,  Mrs.  Helm,  the  wife  of  Capt.  (then  Lieutenant)  Helm, 
and  step-daughter  of  Mr.  Kinzie." 

''  After  we  had  left  the  bank,  the  firing  became  general.  The  Miamis  fled  at  the 
outset  Their  chief  rode  up  to  the  Pottawatomies  and  said:  'You  have  de 
ceived  the  Americans  and  us.  You  have  done  a  bad  action,  and  (brandishing 
his  tomahawk)  I  will  be  first  to  head  a  party  of  Americans  to  return  and  pun 
ish  your  treachery."  So  saying,  he  galloped  after  his  companions,  who  were  now 
scouring  across  the  prairies. 

The  troops  behaved  most  gallantly.  They  were  but  a  handful,  but  they  seemed 
resolved  to  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible.  Our  horses  pranced  and  bounded, 
and  could  hardly  be  restrained  as  the  balls  whistled  among  them.  I  drew  off  a 
little,  and  gazed  upon  my  husband  and  father,  who  were  yet  unharmed.  I  felt 
that  my  hour  was  come,  and  endeavored  to  forget  those  I  loved,  and  prepare  my 
self  for  my  approaching  fate. 

"While  I  was  thus  engaged,  the  surgeon,  Dr.  Van  Voorhees,  came  up.  He  was 
badly  wounded.  His  horse  had  been  shot  under  him,  and  he  had  received  a  ball 
in  his  leg.  Every  muscle  of  his  face  was  quivering  with  the  agony  of  terror.  He 
said  to  me — 'Do  you  think  they  will  take  our  lives?  I  am  badly  wounded,  but  I 
think  not  mortally.  Perhaps  we  might  purchase  our  lives  by  promising  them  a 
large  reward.  Do  you  think  there  is  any  chance?' 

"  'Dr.  Van  Voorhees,'  said  I,  'do  not  let  us  waste  the  few  moments  that  yet  re 
main  to  us,  in  such  vain  hopes.  Our  fate  is  inevitable.  In  a  few  moments  we 
must  appear  before  the  bar  of  God.  Let  us  make  what  preparation  is  yet  in  our 
power. 

UiOh!  I  can  not  die]  exclaimed  he,  'I  am  not  Jit  to  die — if  I  had  but  a  snort 
time  to  prepare — death  is  awful!'  I  pointed  to  Ensign  Ronan,  who,  though  mor 
tally  wounded  and  nearly  down,  was  still  fighting,  with  desperation,  on  one 
knee. 

"  '  Look  at  that  man,'  said  I,  '  at  least  he  dies  like  a  soldier.'  l  Yes,'  replied  the 
unfortunate  man,  with  a  convulsive  gasp,  '  but  he  has  no  terrors  of  the  future — he 
is  an  unbeliever! ' 

"At  this  moment  a  young  Indian  raised  his  tomahawk  at  me.  By  springing 
aside,  1  avoided  the  blow  which  was  intended  for  my  skull,  but  which  alighted  on 
my  shoulder.  I  siezed  him  around  the  neck,  and  while  exerting  my  utmost  efforts 
to  get  possession  of  his  scalping-knife,  which  hung  in  a  scabbard  over  his  breast, 
I  was  dragged  from  his  grasp  by  another  and  an  older  Indian.  The  latter  bore 
me,  struggling  and  resisting,  toward  the  lake.  Notwithstanding  the  rapidity  with 
which  1  was  hurried  along,  I  recognized,  as  I  passed  them,  the  lifeless  remains  of 
the  unfortunate  surgeon.  Some  murderous  tomahawk  had  stretched  him  upon  the 
very  spot  where  I  had  last  seen  him.  1  was  immediately  plunged  into  the  water 
and  held  there  with  a  forcible  hand,  notwithstanding  my  resistance.  I  soon  per 
ceived,  however,  that  the  object  of  my  captor  was  not  to  drown  me,  for  he  held  me 
firmly,  in  such  a  position  as  to  place  my  head  above  water.  This  reassured  me, 
and  regarding  him  attentively,  1  soon  recognized,  in  spite  of  the  paint  with  which 
he  was  disguised,  The  Black  Partridge. 

"  When  the  firing  had  nearly  subsided,  my  preserver  bore  me  from  the  water 
and  conducted  me  up  the  sand  banks.  It  was  a  burning  August  morning,  and 
walking  through  the  sand  in  my  drenched  condition,  was  inexpressibly  painful 
and  fatiguing.  I  stooped  and  took  off  my  shoes  to  free  them  from  the  sand, 
with  which  they  were  nearly  filled,  when  a  squaw  siezed  and  carried  them  off, 
and  I  was  obliged  to  proceed  without  them. 

"  When  we  had  gained  the  prairie,  I  was  met  by  my  father,  who  told  me  that 
mv  husband  was  safe  but  slightly  wounded.  They  led  me  gently  back  toward  the 
Chicago  River,  along  the  southern  bank  of  which  was  the  Pottawatomie  encamp 
ment.  At  one  time  I  was  placed  upon  a  horse  without  a  saddle,  but  finding  the 
motion  insupportable,  I  sprang  off.  Supported  partly  by  my  kind  conductor, 
Black  Partridge,  and  partly  by  another  Indian,  Pee-so-tum,  who  held  dangling  in 


ILLINOIS.  295 

his  hand  a  scalp,  which. by  the  black  ribbon  around  the  queue,  I  recognized  as 
that  of  Capt.  Wells,  I  dragged  my  fainting  steps  to  one  of  the  wigwams. 

"The  wife  of  Wau-bee-nee-inah,  a  chief  from  the  Illinois  River,  was  standing 
near,  and  seeing  my  exhausted  condition  she  siezed  a  kettle,  dipped  up  some  water 
from  a  stream  that  flowed  near,  threw  into  it  some  maple  sugar,  and  stirring  it  up 
with  her  hand  gave  it  me  to  drink.  This  act  of  kindness,  in  the  midst  of  so  many 
many  horrors,  touched  me  most  sensibly,  but  my  attention  was  soon  diverted  to 
other  objects. 

"The  fort  had  become  a  scene  of  plunder  to  such  as  remained 'after  the  troops 
marched  out.  The  cattle  had  been  shot  down  as  they  ran  at  large,  and  lay  dead 
or  dying  around.  This  work  of  butchery  had  commenced  just  as  we  were  leaving 
the  fort  I  well  remembered  a  remark  of  Ensign  Ronan,  as  the  firing  went  on. 
'  Such,'  turning  to  me,  '  is  to  be  our  fate — to  be  shot  down  like  brutes ! '  '  Well 
sir,'  said  the  commanding  officer,  who  overheard  him,  'are  you  afraid?'  'No,'  re 
plied  the  high  spirited  young  man,  '  I  can  march  up  to  the  enemy  where  you  dare 
not  show  your  face ; '  and  his  subsequent  gallant  behavior  showed  this  to  be  no 
idle  boast. 

"  As  the  noise  of  the  firing  grew  gradually  less,  and  the  stragglers  from  the  vic 
torious  party  came  dropping  in,  1  received  confirmation  of  what  my  father  had 
hurriedly  communicated  in  our  rencontre  on  the  lake  shore ;  namely,  that  the 
whites  had  surrendered  after  the  loss  of  about  two  thirds  of  their  number. 
They  had  stipulated,  through  the  interpreter,  Peresh  Leo.lerc,  for  the  preservation 
of  their  lives,  and  those  of  the  remaining  women  and  children,  and  for  their  de 
livery  at  some  of  the  British  posts,  unless  ransomed  by  traders  in  the  Indian  coun 
try.  It  appears  that  the  wounded  prisoners  were  not  considered  as  included 
in  the  stipulation,  and  a  horrible  scene  ensued  upon  their  being  brought  into 
camp. 

"An  old  squaw,  infuriated  by  the  loss  of  friends,  or  excited  by  the  sanguinary 
scenes  around  her,  seemed  possessed  by  a  demoniac  ferocity.  She  siezed  a  stable 
fork  and  assaulted  one  miserable  victim,  who  lay  groaning  and  writhing  in  the 
agony  of  his  wounds,  aggravated  by  the  scorching  beams  of  the  sun.  With  a  deli 
cacy  of  feeling  scarcely  to  have  been  expected  under  such  circumstances,  Wau- 
bee-nee-inah  stretched  a  mat  across  two  poles,  between  me  and  this  dreadful  scene. 
1  was  thus  spared,  in  some  degree,  a  view  of  its  horrors,  although  I  could  not  en 
tirely  close  my  ears  to  the  cries  of  the  sufferer.  The  following  night  five  more  of 
the  wounded  prisoners  were  tomahawked. 

u  The  Americans,  after  their  first  attack  by  the  Indians,  charged  upon  those  who 
had  concealed  themselves  in  a  sort  of  ravine,  intervening  between  the  sand  banks 
and  the  prairie.  The  latter  gathered  themselves  into  a  body,  and  after  some  hard 
fighting,  in  which  the  number  of  whites  had  become  reduced  to  28,  this  little  band 
succeeded  in  breaking  through  the  enemy,  and  gaining  a  rising  ground,  not  far 
from  the  Oak  Woods.  The  contest  now  seemed  hopeless,  and  Lieut.  Helm  sent 
Peresh  Leclerc,  a  half-breed  boy  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Kinzie,  who  had  accompa 
nied  the  detachment  and  fought  manfully  on  their  side,  to  propose  terms  of 
capitulation.  It  was  stipulated  that  the  lives  of  all  the  survivors  should  be  spared, 
and  a  ransom  permitted  as  soon  as  practicable. 

"  But,  in  the  mean  time,  a  horrible  scene  had  been  enacted.  One  young  savage, 
climbing  into  the  baggage -wagon,  containing  the  children  of  the  white  famili-s, 
12  in  number,  tomahawked  the  children  of  the  entire  group.  This  was  during  the 
engagement  near  the  sand  hills.  When  Capt.  Wells,  who  was  fighting  near,  beheld 
it,  he  exclaimed:  'Is  that  their  game,  butchering  the  women  and  children?  Then' 
I  will  kill  too  /'  So  saying,  he  turned  his  horse's  head,  and  started  for  the  Indian 
oamp,  near  the  fort,  where  had  been  left  their  squaws  and  children. 

"Several  Indians  pursued  him  as  he  galloped  along.  He  laid  himself  flat  on  the 
neck  of  his  horse,  loading  and  firing  in  that  position,  as  he  would  occasionally  turn 
on  his  pursurers.  At  length  their  balls  took  effect,  killing  his  horse,  and  severely 
wounding  himself.  At  this  moment  he  was  met  by  Winnemeg  and  Wau-ben-see, 
who  endeavored  to  save  him  from  the  savages  who  had  now  overtaken  him.  As 
they  supported  him  along,  after  having  disengaged  him  from  his  horse,  he  re 
ceived  his  death-blow  from  another  Indian,  Pee-so-tum,  who  stabbed  him  in  the  back. 


296  ILLINOIS. 

"  The  heroic  resolution  of  one  of  the  soldier's  wives  deserves  to  be  recorded. 
She  was  a  Mrs.  Corbin,  and  had,  from  the  first,  expressed  the  determination  never 
to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  savages,  believing  that  their. prisoners  were  always 
subjected  to  tortures  worse  than  death.  When,  therefore,  a  party  came  upon  her, 
to  make  her  a  prisoner,  she  fought  with  desperation,  refusing  to  surrender,  although 
assured,  by  signs,  of  safety  and  kind  treatment,  and  literally  suffered  herself  to  be 
cut  to  pieces,  rather  than  become  their  captive. 

"  There  was  a  Sergeant  Holt,  who,  early  in  the  engagement,  received  a  ball  in 
the  neck.  Finding  himself  badly  wounded,  he  gave  his  sword  to  his  wife,  who  was 
on  horseback  near  him,  telling  her  to  defend  herself — he  then  made  for  the  lake, 
to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  balls.  Mrs.  Holt  rode  a  very  fine  horse,  which  the 
Indians  were  desirous  of  possessing,  and  they  therefore  attacked  her,  in  hopes  of 
dismounting  her.  They  fought  only  with  the  butt-ends  of  their  guns,  for  their  ob 
ject  was  not  to  kill  her.  She  hacked  and  hewed  at  their  pieces  as  they  were  thrust 
against  her,  now  on  this  side,  now  on  that.  Finally,  she  broke  loose  from  them, 
and  dashed  out  into  the  prairie.  The  Indians  pursued  her,  shouting  and  laughing, 
and  now  and  then  calling  out:  ' The  brave  woman !  do  not  hurt  her ! '  At  length 
they  overtook  her  again,  and  while  she  was  engaged  with  two  or  three  in  front,  one 
succeeded  in  siezing  her  by  the  neck  behind,  and  dragging  her,  although  a  large 
and  powerful  woman,  from  her  horse.  Notwithstanding  that  their  guns  had  been 
so  hacked  and  injured,  and  even  themselves  cut  severely,  they  seemed  to  regard 
her  only  with  admiration.  They  took  her  to  a  trader  on  the  Illinois  River,  by 
whom  she  was  restored  to  her  friends,  after  having  received  every  kindness  during 
her  captivity." 

"  The  heart  of  Capt.  Wells  was  taken  out,  and  cut  into  pieces,  and  distributed 
among  the  tribes.  His  mutilated  remains  remained  unburied  until  the  next  day, 
when  Billy  Caldwell  gathered  up  his  head  in  one  place,  and  mangled  body  in  an 
other,  and  buried  them  in  the  sand.  The  family  of  Mr.  Kinzie  had  been  taken 
from  the  boat  to  their  home,  by  friendly  Indians,  and  there  strictly  guarded.  Very 
soon  a  very  hostile  party  of  the  Pottawatomie  nation  arrived  from  the  Wabash,  and 
it  required  all  the  skill  and  bravery  of  Black  Partridge,  Wau-ben-see,  Billy  Cald 
well  (who  arrived  at  a  critical  moment),  and  other  friendly  Indians,  to  protect 
them.  Runners  had  been  sent  by  the  hostile  chiefs  to  all  the  Indian  villages,  to 
apprise  them  of  the  intended  evacuation  of  the  fort,  and  of  their  plan  of  at 
tacking  the  troops.  In  eager  thirst  to  participate  in  such  a  scene  of  blood,  but 
arrived  too  late  to  participate  in  the  massacre.  They  were  infuriated  at  their 
disappointment,  and  sought  to  glut  their  vengeance  on  the  wounded  and  priso 
ners. 

On  the  third  day  after  the  massacre,  the  family  of  Mr.  Kinzie,  with  the  attaches 
of  the  establishment,  under  the  care  of  Francois,  a  half-breed  interpreter,  were 
taken  to  St.  Joseph's  in  a  boat,  where  they  remained  until  the  following  No 
vember,  under  the  protection  of  To-pee-nee-bee,  and  his  band.  They  were  then  car 
ried  to  Detroit,  under  the  escort  of  Chandonnai,  and  a  friendly  chief  by  the  name 
of  Kee-po-tah,  and,  with  their  servants,  delivered  up,  as  prisoners  of  war,  to  the 
British  commanding  officer.  Of  the  other  prisoners,  Capt.  Heald  and  Mrs.  Heald 
were  sent  across  to  the  lake  of  St.  Joseph's,  the  day  after  the  battle.  Capt.  Heald  had 
received  two  wounds,  and  Mrs.  Heald  seven,  the  ball  of  one  of  which  was  cut  from 
her  arrn  by  Mr.  Kinzie,  with  a  pen-knife,  after  the  engagement.  Mrs.  H.  was 
ransomed  on  the  battle  field,  by  Chandonnai,  a  half-breed  from  St.  Joseph's,  for  a 
mule  he  had  just  taken,  and  the  promise  of  ten  bottles  of  whisky.  Capt.  Heald 
was  taken  prisoner  by  an  Indian  from  the  Kankakee,  who,  seeing  the  wounded 
and  enfeebled  state  of  Mrs.  Heald,  generously  released  his  prisoner,  that  he 
might  accompany  his  wife. 

Lieut.  Helm  was  wounded  in  the  action  and  taken  prisoner;  and  afterward 
taken  by  some  friendly  Indians  to  the  Au-sable,  and  from  thence  to  St.  Louis,  and 
liberated  from  captivity  through  the  agency  of  the  late  Thomas  Forsyth,Esq.  Mrs. 
Helm  received  a  slight  wound  in  the  ankle;  had  her  horse  shot  from  under  her; 
and  after  passing  through  the  agonizing  scenes  described,  went  with  the  family  of 
Mr.  Kinzie  to  Detroit.  The  soldiers  with  their  wives  and  children,  were  dispersed 
among  the  different  villages  of  the  Pottowatomies,  upon  the  Illinois,  Wabash,  Rock 


ILLINOIS.  297 

River  and  Milwaukie.  The  largest  proportion  were  taken  to  Detroit,  and  ran 
somed  the  following  spring.  Some,  however,  remained  in  captivity  another  year, 
and  experienced  more  kindness  than  was  expected  from  an  enemy  so  mer 
ciless. 

Captain  (subsequently  Major)  Heald,  his  wife  and  family,  settled  in  the  coun 
ty  of  St.  Charles,  Mo.,  after  the  war,  about  1817,  where  he  died  about  15  years 
since.  He  was  respected  and  beloved  by  his  acquaintances.  His  health  was  im 
paired  from  the  wounds  he  received." 


North-western  view  of  the  State  House,  Springfield. 

The  engraving  shows  the  appearance  of  the  State  Capitol,  as  seen  from  the  Mayor's  office,  in  Washing 
ton-street.     The  Court  House  and  the  Bank  building  are  seen  on  the  left. 

SPRINGFIELD,  the  capital  of  Illinois,  is  situated  near  the  center  of  the 
state,  four  miles  S.  from  Sangamon  River,  on  the  border  of  a  rich  and  beau 
tiful  prairie,  97  miles  from  St.  Louis,  75  N.E.  from  Alton,  and  188  S.W. 
from  Chicago.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity  on  what  was  formerly  an 
open  prairie,  the  streets  being  wide  and  straight,  and  ornamented  with  shade 
trees.  The  state  capitol  stands  on  a  square  of  three  acres  in  the  center  of 
the  city,  which  is  beautifully  adorned  with  trees,  shrubbery  and  flowers. 
From  the  unusual  attention  given  to  the  cultivation  of  shrubbery  and  flow 
ers,  Springfield  is  sometimes  fancifully  and  pleasantly  termed  the  "Flower 
City."  It  contains  the  governor's  house,  court  house,  12  churches,  4  bank 
ing  houses,  the  Illinois  State  University,  and  in  1860  6,499  inhabitants. 

The  first  settlers  of  Springfield  appear  to  have  been  several  members  of  a  family 
by  the  name  of  Kelly,  who,  sometime  during  the  year  1818  or  1819,  settled  upon 
the  present  site  of  the  city;  one  of  them,  John  Kelly,  erected  his  rude  cabin  upon 
the  spot  where  stands  the  building  known  as  the  "Garrett  House;  "  this  was  the 
first  habitation  erected  in  the  city,  and,  perhaps,  also,  in  the  county  of  Sangamon. 
Another  of  the  Kellys  built  his  cabin  westward  of  the  first,  and  near  the  spot 
where  stands  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Torrey;  and  the  third  near  or  upon  the  spot 
where  A.  G.  Herndon  resides.  A  second  family,  by  the  name  of  Duggett,  settled 
in  that  portion  of  the  western  part  of  the  city  known  by  the  early  inhabitants  as 
"Newsonville,"  sometime  in  the  early  part  of  1820;  and  some  half  dozen  other 
families  were  added  to  the  new  settlement  during  the  year  1821. 


298  ILLINOIS. 

The  original  name  of  Sprin»Seld  was  Calhoun.  At  a  special  term  of  the  county 
commissioners'  court,  held  in  April,  1821,  at  Kelly's  house,  they  designated  a  cer 
tain  point  in  the  prairie,  near  John  Kelly's  field,  on  the  waters  of  Spring  creek,  as 
a  temporary  seat  of  justice  for  the  county,  and  that  "said  county  seat  should  be 
called  and  known  by  the  name  of  Springfield."  The  first  court  house  and  jail 
was  built  in  the  latter  part  of  1821,  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  Second  and  Jefierson- 
streets.  The  town  was  surveyed  and  platted  by  James  C.  Stephenson,  Esq.,  and 
he  is  said  to  have  received  block  21  for  his  services.  Town  lots,  at  that  period, 
could  not  have  been  considered  very  valuable,  as  tradition  says  he  proposed  to  give 
Dr.  Merryman  one  fourth  of  the  block  for  his  pointer  dog  to  which  he  took  a  fancy, 
and  which  offer  was  rejected.  In  1823,  Springfield  did  not  contain  more  than  a 
dozen  log  cabins,  which  were  scattered  about  in  the  vicinity  of  where  the  court 
house  then  stood,  and  the  Sangamon  River  was  the  boundary  line  of  settlements 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  state.  The  site  of  Springfield  was  originally  an  open 
prairie,  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubbery :  where  the  state  house  now  stands,  was 
formerly  a  kind  of  swamp,  where,  during  the  winter,  the  boys  amused  themselves 
in  skating. 

The  first  tavern  in  Springfield  was  an  old-fashioned  two  story  log  house,  kept  by 
a  person  named  Price,  which  stood  where  the  residence  of  Charles  Lorsh  now 
stands.  The  first  tavern  of  much  pretension  was  the  old  "  Indian  Queen  Hotel," 
built  by  A.  G.  Herndon.  The  first  store,  for  the  sale  of  dry  goods,  in  Springfield, 
was  opened  by  Elijah  lies,  noW  occupied  by  John  Hay. 

Tn  1837,  the  seat  of  government  for  the  state  was  removed  from  Vandalia  to 
Springfield,  and  the  first  session  of  the  legislature  here  was  in  the  winter  of  1839- 
40.  The  senate  held  its  session  in  the  old  Methodist  church,  and  the  house  of 
representatives  met  in  the  second  Presbyterian  church.  In  1840,  Springfield  re 
ceived  a  city  charter.  Benjamin  S.  Clement  was  elected  the  first  mayor,  and  Jas. 
R  Gray,  Joseph  Klein,  Washington  lies,  and  Wm.  Prentiss,  aldermen.  The  St. 
Louis,  Alton  and  Chicago  Railroad  was  commenced  in  Aug.,  1850,  and  was  finished 
from  Alton  to  Springfield,  Sept.,  1852:  from  this  period  Springfield  has  rapidly  ad 
vanced  in  wealth  and  population. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  city  ceme 
tery  : 

NINIAN  EDWARDS,  chief  justice  of  Ky.,  1808;  governor  111.  Territory,  1809  to  1818  ;  U. 
S.  senator,  1818  to  1824;  governor  state  of  111.,  1826  to  1830;  died  July  20, 1833,  in  the  59th 
year  of  his  age. 

PASCAL  PAOLI  ENOS,  a  native  of  Windsor,  Conn.,  emigrated  to  the  valley  of  the  Missis 
sippi  in  1816 ;  with  three  others  founded  the  city  of  Springfield  in  1824,  and  died  A.D. 
1832,  aged  sixty-two.  The  pioneers  acknowledge  his  virtues. 

Erected  by  the  Whigs  of  Springfield  in  memory  of  JOHN  BRODIE,  who  departed  this  life 
on  the  3d  of  Aug.,  1844,  in  the  42d  year  of  his  age.  [Second  monument.] — The  grave  of 
JOHN  BRODIE,  a  native  of  Perth,  Scotland,  who  departed  this  life  on  the  3d  of  Aug.,  1844, 
in  the  42d  year  of  his  age. 

Far  from  his  native  isle  he  lies, 
Wrapped  in  the  vestments  of  the  grave. 

[In  the  old  graveyard.]  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Rev.  JACOB  M.  EARLY,  a  native  of 
Virginia,  and  for  seven  years  a  resident  of  Springfield,  111.,  combining  in  his  character 
splendid  natural  endowments,  a  highly  cultivated  mind,  undaunted  moral  courage,  and  the 
graces  of  the  Christian  religion.  Eminent  in  the  profession  of  his  choice,  and  successful 
in  his  ministry,  he  enjoyed  a  large  share  of  the  respect  and  affections  of  an  extensive  and 
respectable  acquaintance.  Though  called  suddenly  from  life,  he  met  death  with  a  calm 
and  amazing  fortitude,  in  the  certain  hope  of  a  blissful  immortality,  through  our  Lord  and 
Savior  Jesus  Christ.  He  was  born  Feb.  22,  1806,  and  died  March  11,  1838,  aged  32  yrs.  18 
days. 


ILLINOIS. 


299 


Springfield  is  noted  as  having  been  the  home  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  president 
of  the  United  States.  He  is  a  descendant  of  the  pioneers  of  Kentucky. 

His  grandfather  removed  from 
Virginia  at  an  early  day,  and 
finally  fell  on  the  frontiers  be 
neath  the  tomahawk  of  the  sav 
age.  His  son,  Thomas,  and  the 
father  of  Abraham,  traveled 
about  from  neighborhood  to 
neighborhood,  working  as  a  la 
borer,  until  he  finally  settled  in 
what  was  then  Hardin,  now  La- 
rue  county,  Ky.j  and  there,  in 
1809,  was  born  the  subject  of  this 
sketch.  When  in  his  eighth 

RESIDENCE  OF  AB'M.  LINCOLN,  vearj     the      family    removed      to 

Spencer  Co.,  Ind.  When  Abra 
ham  was  21  years  of  age,  they  again  emigrated  to  Macon,  Illinois.  Soon 
after  he  engaged  as  a  flat  boatman  on  the  Mississippi,  then  he  took  charge 
of  a  store  and  a  mill  at  New  Salem,  and  on  the  outbreak  of  the  Black  Hawk 
war  he  was  chosen  captain  of  a  company  of  volunteers.  In  1834  he  was, 
for  the  first  time,  elected  to  the  legislature  of  Illinois,  and  soon  after  com 
menced  the  study  of  law.  In  1837  he  removed  to  Springfield  and  entered 
upon  his  professional  career.  In  1640,  and  again  in  1844,  he  was  one  of 
the  electors  on  the  Whig  ticket  in  Illinois ;  in  1846  was  elected  to  congress 
from  the  Springfield  district.  In  1858,  he  was  brought  prominently  before 
the  public  by  his  memorable  senatorial  contest  with  the  distinguished  Ste 
phen  A.  Douglass.  This  was  the  final  point  in  his  career  which  led  to  his 
nomination  and  subsequent  election,  by  the  Republican  party,  to  the  Presi 
dency.  His  history  illustrates  the  power  of  natural  capacity,  joined  to  in 
dustry,  to  overcome  poverty  and  other  obstacles  in  the  way  of  obtaining  an 
education,  in  a  country  whose  institutions  give  full  freedom  to  the  exercise 
of  all  inn nly  faculties. 

Knsk<iskia,  a  small  village  and  the  county  seat  of  Randolph  county,  is  on 
Kaskaskia  River,  10  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  and  on 
a  neck  of  land  between  them,  two  miles  from  the  latter,  and  142  miles 
S.  of  Springfield.  It  has  the  distinction  of  being  the  oldest  town  in  Illinois, 
and,  perhaps,  in  the  whole  western  states.  It  was  founded  by  Father  Gravier, 
a  Catholic  missionary,  some  where  about  the  year  1693.  It  was,  at  first, 
merely  a  missionary  station  inhabited  by  the  natives.  In  1763,  when  ceded 
by  the  French  to  the  English,  it  contained  about  130  families.  It  was  the 
first  capital  of  the  territory,  and  retained  that  rank  until  1818. 

Judge  Hall,  in  his  "  Sketches  of  the  West,"  gives  a  pleasant  picture  of 
the  characteristics  of  the  French  settlers  in  this  region.  Says  he: 

They  made  no  attempt  to  acquire  land  from  the  Indians,  to  organize  a  social  sys 
tem,  to  introduce  municipal  regulations,  or  to  establish  military  defenses;  but 
cheerfully  obeyed  the  priests  and  the  king's  officers,  and  enjoyed  the  present,  with 
out  troubling  their  heads  about  the  future.  They  seem  to  have  been  even  careless 
as  to  the  acquisition  of  property,  and  its  transmission  to  their  heirs.  Finding 
themselves  in  a  fruitful  country,  abounding  in  game,  where  the  necessaries  of  life 
could  be  procured  with  little  labor,  where  no  restraints  were  imposed  by  govern 
ment,  and  neither  tribute  nor  personal  service  was  exacted,  they  were  content  to 
live  in  unambitious  peace,  and  comfortable  poverty.  They  took  possession  of  so* 
much  of  the  vacant  land  around  them  as  they  were  disposed  to  till,  and  no  more. 


300  ILLINOIS. 

Their  agriculture  was  rude;  and  even  to  this  day,  some  of  the  implements  of  hus 
bandry  and  modes  of  cultivation,  brought  from  France  a  century  ago,  remain  un 
changed  by  the  march  of  mind,  or  the  hand  of  innovation.  Their  houses  were 
comfortable,  and  they  reared  fruits  and  flowers;  evincing,  in  this  respect,  an  at 
tention  to  comfort  and  luxury,  which  has  not  been  practiced  amon^  the  English  or 
American  first  settlers ;  but  in  the  accumulation  of  property,  and  m  all  the  essen 
tials  of  industry,  they  were  indolent  and  improvident,  rearing  only  the  bare  neces 
saries  of  life,  and  living  from  generation  to  generation  without  change  or  improve 
ment. 

The  only  new  articles  which  the  French  adopted,  in  consequence  of  their  change 
of  residence,  were  those  connected  with  the  fur  trade.  The  few  who  were  en 
gaged  in  merchandise  turned  their  attention  almost  exclusively  to  the  traffic  with 
the  Indians,  while  a  large  number  became  hunters  and  boatmen.  The  voyageurs, 
engagees,  and  couriers  des  bois,  as  they  are  called,  form  a  peculiar  race  of  men. 
They  were  active,  sprightly,  and  remarkably  expert  in  their  vocation.  With  all 
the  vivacity  of  th«  French  character,  they  have  little  of  the  intemperance  and  bru 
tal  coarseness  usually  found  among  the  boatmen  and  mariners.  They  are  patient 
under  fatigue,  and  endure  an  astonishing  degree  of  toil  and  exposure  to  the  weather. 
Accustomed  to  live  in  the  open  air,  they  pass  through  every  extreme,  and  all  the 
sudden  vicissitudes  of  climate,  with  little  apparent  inconvenience.  Their  boats 
are  managed  with  expertness,  and  even  grace,  and  their  toil  enlivened  by  the  song. 
As  hunters,  they  have  roved  over  the  whole  of  the  wide  plain  of  the  west,  to  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  sharing  the  hospitality  of  the  Indians,  abiding  for  long  periods, 
and  even  permanently,  with  the  tribes,  and  sometimes  seeking  their  alliance  by 
marriage.  As  boatmen,  they  navigate  the  birch  canoe  to  the  sources  of  the  long 
est  rivers,  and  pass  from  one  river  to  another,  by  laboriously  carrying  the  packages 
of  merchandise,  and  the  boat  itself,  across  mountains,  or  through  swamps  or  woods, 
so  that  no  obstacle  stops  their  progress.  Like  the  Indian,  they  can  live  on  game, 
without  condiment  or  bread;  like  him  they  sleep  in  the  open  air,  or  plunge  into 
the  water  at  any  season,  without  injury. 

The  French  had  also  a  fort  on  the  Ohio,  about  thirty-six  miles  above  the  junc 
tion  of  that  river  with  the  Mississippi,  of  which  the  Indians  obtained  possession 
by  a  singular  stratagem.  This  was  just  above  the  site  of  Metropolis  City,  and  was 
a  mission  station  as  early  as  1711.  A  number  of  them  appeared  in  the  day  time 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  each  covered  with  a  bear-skin,  and  walking  on 
all-fours,  and  imitating  the  motions  of  that  animal.  The  French  supposed  them 
to  be  bears,  and  a  party  crossed  the  river  in  pursuit  of  them.  The  remainder  of 
the  troops  left  their  quarters,  and  resorted  to  the  bank  of  the  river,  in  front  of  the 
garrison,  to  observe  the  sport.  In  the  meantime,  a  large  body  of  Indian  warriors, 
who  were  concealed  in  the  woods  near  by,  came  silently  up  behind  the  fort,  en 
tered  it  without  opposition,  and  very  few  of  the  French  escaped  the  carnage. 
They  afterward  built  another  fort  on  the  same  ground,  which  they  called  Massacre, 
in  memory  of  this  disastrous  event,  and  which  retained  the  name  of  fort  Massac, 
after  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  American  government. 

These  paragraphs  of  Hall  are  quoted  by  Peck,  in  the  Western  Annals, 
and  to  them  are  appended  these  additional  facts  from  his  own  pen : 

The  style  of  agriculture  in  all  the  French  settlements  was  simple.  Both  the  Spanish 
and  French  governments,  in  forming  settlements  on  the  Mississippi,  had  special  regard  to 
convenience  of  social  intercourse,  and  protection  from  the  Indians.  All  their  settlements 
were  required  to  be  in  the  form  of  villages  or  towns,  and  lots  of  a  convenient  size  for  a 
door  yard,  garden  and  stable  yard,  were  provided  for  each  family.  To  each  village  were 
granted  two  tracts  of  laud  at  convenient  distances  for  "  common  fields  "  and  "  commons." 

A  common  field  is  a  tract  of  land  of  several  hundred  acres,  inclosed  in  common  by  the 
villagers,  each  person  furnishing  his  proportion  of  labor,  and  each  family  possessing  indi 
vidual  interest  in  a  portion  of  the  field,  marked  off  and  bounded  from  the  rest.  Ordinances 
were  made  to  regulate  the  repairs  of  fences,  the  time  of  excluding  cattle  in  the  spring,  and 
the  time  of  gathering  the  crop  and  opening  the  field  for  the  range  of  cattle  in  the  fall. 
Each  plat  of  ground  in  the  common  field  was  owned  in  fee  simple  by  the  person  to  whom 
granted,  subject  to  sale  and  conveyance,  the  same  as  any  landed  property. 

A  common  is  a  tract  of  land  granted  to  the  town  for  wood  and  pasturage,  in  which  each 


ILLINOIS.  301 

owner  of  a  village  lot  has  a  common,  but  not  an  individual  right.  In  some  cases  this 
tract  embraced  several  thousand  acres. 

By  this  arrangement,  something  like  a  community  system  existed  in  their  intercourse. 
If  the  head  of  a  family  was  sick,  met  with  a  casualty,  or  was  absent  as  an  engugee,  his 
family  sustained  little  inconvenience.  His  plat  in  the  common  field  was  cultivated  by  his 
neighbors,  and  the  crop  gathered.  A  pleasant  custom  existed  in  these  French  villages  not 
thirty  years  since,  and  which  had  come  down  from  the  remotest  period. 

The'husbandman  on  his  return  at  evening  from  his  daily  toil,  was  always  met  by  his 
affectionate  femme  with  the  friendly  kiss,  and  very  commonly  with  one,  perhaps  two  of  the 
youngest  children,  to  receive  the  same  salutation  from  le  pere.  This  daily  interview  was 
at  the  gate  of  the  door  yard,  and  in  view  of  all  the  villagers.  The  simple-hearted  people 
were  a  happy  and  contented  race.  A  few  traits  of  these  ancient  characteristics  remain, 
but  most  of  the  descendants  of  the  French  are  fully  Americanized. 

The  romantic  details  of  the  conquest  of  Kaskaskia,  in  the  war  of  the 
"Revolution,  by  the  Virginians,  under  Clark,  we  take  from  Monette : 

The  whole  of  the  Illinois  country  being,  at  that  time,  within  the  chartered  limits 
of  Virginia,  Col.  George  Kogers  Clark,  an  officer  of  extraordinary  genius,  who  had 
recently  emigrated  to  Kentucky,  with  slight  aid  from  the  mother  state,  projected 
and  carried  out  a  secret  expedition  for  the  reduction  of  these  posts,  the  great 
fountains  of  Indian  massacre. 

About  the  middle  of  June  (1778),  Clark,  by  extraordinary  exertions,  assembled 
at  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio  six  incomplete  companies.  From  these  he  selected  about 
150  frontier  men,  and  descended  the  Ohio  in  keel-boats  en  route  for  Kaskaskia; 
on  their  way  down  they  learned,  by  a  messenger,  of  the  alliance  of  France  with 
the  United  States.  About  forty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  having  first 
concealed  their  boats  by  sinking  them  in  the  river,  they  commenced  their  march 
toward  Kaskaskia.  Their  route  was  through  a  pathless  wilderness,  interspersed 
with  morasses,  and  almost  impassable  to  any  except  backwoodsmen.  After  several 
days  of  great  fatigue  and  hardships,  they  arrived,  unperceived,  in  the  evening  of 
the  4th  of  July,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town.  In  the  dead  of  night  Clark  divided 
his  little  force  into  two  divisions.  One  division  took  possession  of  the  town  while 
the  inhabitants  were  asleep ;  with  the  other  Clark  in  person  crossed  to  the  oppo 
site  side  of  the  Kaskaskia  River,  and  secured  possession  of  Fort  Gage.  So  little 
apprehensive  was  he  of  danger,  that  the  commandant,  Rocheblave,  had  not  even 
posted  a  solitary  sentinel,  and  that  officer  was  awakened  by  the  side  of  his  wife  to 
find  himself  a  prisoner  of  war. 

The  town,  containing  about  250  dwellings,  was  completely  surrounded,  and  all 
avenues  of  escape  carefully  guarded.  The  British  had  cunningly  impressed  the 
French  with  a  horror  of  Virginians,  representing  them  as  bloodthirsty  and  cruel 
in  the  extreme.  Clark  took  measures,  for  ultimate  good,  to  increase  this  feeling. 
During  the  night  the  troops  filled  the  air  with  war-whoops ;  every  house  was  en 
tered  and  the  inhabitants  disarmed;  all  intercourse  between  them  was  prohibited; 
the  people  were  ordered  not  to  appear  in  the  streets  under  the  penalty  of  instant 
death.  The  whole  town  was  filled  with  terror,  and  the  minds  of  the  poor  French 
men  were  agitated  by  the  most  horrid  apprehensions.  At  last,  when  hope  had 
nearly  vanished,  a  deputation,  headed  by  Father  Gibault,  the  village  priest,  ob 
tained  permission  to  wait  upon  Col.  Clark.  Surprised  as  they  had  been,  by  the 
sudden  capture  of  their  town,  and  by  such  an  enemy  as  their  imagination  had 
painted,  they  were  still  more  so  when  admitted  to  his  presence.  Their  clothes 
were  dirty  and  torn  by  the  briars,  and  their  whole  aspect  frightful  and  savage. 
The  priest,  in  a  trembling,  subdued  tone,  said  to  Clark : 

"  That  the  inhabitants  expected  to  be  separated,  never  to  meet  again  on  earth, 
and  they  begged  for  permission,  through  him,  to  assemble  once  more  in  the  church, 
to  take  a  final  leave  of  each  other."  Clark,  aware  that  they^  suspected  him  of  hos 
tility  to  their  religion,  carelessly  told  them,  that  he  had  nothing  to  say  against  their 
church  ;  that  religion  was  a  matter  which  the  Americans  left  every  one  for  him 
self  to  settle  with  his  God;  that  the  people  might  assemble  in  the  church,  if  they 
wished,  but  they  must  not  leave  the  town.  Some  further  conversation  was  at 
tempted,  but  Clark,  m  order  that  the  alarm  might  be  raised  to  its  utmost  hight, 
repelled  it  with  sternness,  and  told  them  at  once  that  he  had  not  leisure  for  further 


302  ILLINOIS. 

intercourse.  The  whole  town  immediately  assembled  at  the  church ;  the  old  and 
the  young,  the  women  and  the  children,  and  the  houses  were  all  deserted.  The 
people  remained  in  church  fora  longtime — after  which  the  priest,  accompanied  by 
several  gentlemen,  waited  upon  Col.  Clark,  and  expressed,  in  the  name  of  the  vil 
lage,  "  their  thanks  for  the  indulgence  they  had  received."  The  deputation  then 
desired,  at  the  request  of  the  inhabitants,  to  address  their  conqueror  on  a  subject 
which  was  dearer  to  them  than  any  other.  "  They  were  sensible,"  they  said,  "  that 
their  present  situation  was  the  fate  of  war ;  and  they  could  submit  to  the  loss  of 
property,  but  solicited  that  they  might  not  be  separated  from  their  wives  and  chil 
dren,  and  that  some  clothes  and  provisions  might  be  allowed  for  their  future  sup 
port."  They  assured  Col.  Clark,  that  their  conduct  had  been  influenced  by  the 
British  commandants,  whom  they  supposed  they  were  bound  to  obey — that  they 
were  not  certain  that  they  understood  the  nature  of  the  contest  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  colonies — that  their  remote  situation  was  unfavorable  to  accurate 
information — that  some  of  their  number  had  expressed  themselves  in  favor  of  the 
Americans,  and  others  would  have  done  so  had  they  durst.  Clark,  having  wound 
up  their  terror  to  the  highest  pitch,  resolved  now  to  try  the  effect  of  that  lenity, 
which  he  had  all  along  intended  to  grant.  He  therefore  abruptly  addressed  them  : 
"  Do  you,"  said  he,  "  mistake  us  for  savages  ?  I  am  almost  certain  you  do  from 
your  language.  Do  you  think  that  Americans  intend  to  strip  women  and  children, 
or  take  the  bread  out  of  their  mouths  ?  My  countrymen  disdain  to  make  war  upon 
helpless  innocence.  It  was  to  prevent  the  horrors  of  Indian  butchery  upon  our 
own  wives  and  children,  that  we  have  taken  up  arms,  and  penetrated  into  this 
stronghold  of  British  and  Indian  barbarity,  and  not  the  despicable  prospect  of 
plunder.  That  since  the  King  of  France  had  united  his  arms  with  those  of  Amer 
ica,  the  war,  in  all  probability,  would  shortly  cease.  That  the  inhabitants  of  Kas- 
kaskia,  however,  were  at  liberty  to  take  which  side  they  pleased,  without  danger 
to  themselves,  their  property,  or  their  families.  That  all  religions  were  regarded 
by  the  Americans  with  equal  respect;  and  that  insult  offered  to  theirs,  would  be 
immediately  punished.  And  now,"  continued  he,  "  to  prove  my  sincerity,  you  will 
please  inform  your  fellow-citizens  that  they  are  at  liberty  to  go  wherever  they 
please,  without  any  apprehension.  That  he  was  now  convinced  they  had  been 
misinformed,  and  prejudiced  against  the  Americans,  by  British  officers  ;  and  that 
their  friends  in  confinement  should  immediately  be  released."  The  joy  of  the  vil 
lagers,  on  hearing  the  speech  of  Col.  Clark,  may  be  imagined.  The  contrast  of 
feeling  among  the  people,  on  learning  these  generous  and  magnanimous  intentions 
of  Col.  Clark,  verified  his  anticipations.  The  gloom  which  had  overspread  the 
town  was  immediately  dispersed.  The  bells  rung  a  merry  peal;  the  church  was 
at  once  filled,  and  thanks  offered  up  to  God  for  deliverance  from  the  terrors  they 
had  feared.  Freedom  to  come  and  go,  as  they  pleased,  was  immediately  given ; 
knowing  that  their  reports  would  advance  the  success  and  glory  of  his  arms. 

So  great  an  effect  had  this  leniency  of  Clark  upon  them,  that,  on  the  evening  of 
the  same  day,  a  detachment,  under  Capt.  Bowman,  being  detached  to  surprise  Caho- 
kia,  the  Kaskaskians  offered  to  go  with  it,  and  secure  the  submission  of  their  neigh 
bors.  '  This  having  been  accomplished,  the  two  chief  posts  in  Illinois  had  passed, 
without  bloodshed,  from  the  possession  of  England  into  that  of  Virginia. 

But  St.  Vincennes,  upon  the  Wabash,  the  most  important  post  in  the  west,  except 
Detroit,  still  remained  in  possession  of  the  enemy.  Clark  thereupon  accepted  the 
offer  of  Father  Gibault,  who,  in  company  with  another  Kaskaskian,  proceeded  on 
a  mission  of  peace  to  St.  Vincennes,  and  by  the  1st  of  August,  returned  with  ttte 
intelligence  that  the  inhabitants  of  that  post  had  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance  to 
the  American  cause. 

Clark  next  established  courts,  garrisoned  three  conquered  towns,  commenced  a 
fort  which  proved  the  foundation  of  the  flourishing  city  of  Louisville,  and  sent  the 
ill-natured  Kocheblave  a  prisoner  to  Virginia.  In  October,  Virginia  extended  her 
jurisdiction  over  the  settlements  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  the  Wabash,  by  the 
organization  of  the  county  of  Illinois,  the  largest,  at  that  time,  in  the  world.  Had 
it  not  been  for  the  conquest  of  the  Illinois  country  by  Clark,  it  would  have  re 
mained  in  the  possession  of  England  at  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  and  continued, 
like  Canada,  to  the  present  day,  an  English  province. 


ILLINOIS. 


303 


Having  reduced  these  English  posts  to  submission,  Clark  opened  negotia 
tions  with  the  Indians,  showing  throughout  that  masterly  insight  into  their 
character  that  was  ever  so  wonderfully  displayed  by  him  in  dealing  with  men, 
white  or  red.  Among  the  incidents  of  his  diplomacy  is  this  one,  given  by 
Mr.  Peck : 

A  party  of  Indians,  known  as  Meadow  Indians,  had  come  to  attend  the  council  with 
theii  neighbors.  These,  by  some  means,  were  induced  to  attempt  the  murder  of  the  in 
vaders,  and  tried  to  obtain  an  opportunity  to  commit  the  crime  proposed,  by  surprising 
Clark  and  his  officers  in  their  quarters.  In  this  plan  they  failed,  and  their  purpose  was  dis 
covered  by  the  sagacity  of  the  French  in  attendance;  when  this  was  done,  Clark  gave 
them  to  the  French  to  deal  with  as  they  pleased,  but  with  a  hint  that  some  of  the  leaders 
would  be  as  well  in  irons.  Thus  fettered  and  foiled,  the  chiefs  were  brought  daily  to  the 
council  house,  where  he  whom  they  proposed  to  kill,  was  engaged  in  forming  friendly  re 
lations  with  their  red  brethren.  At  length,  when,  by  these  means,  the  futility  of  their  pro 
ject  had  been  sufficiently  impressed  upon  them,  the  American  commander  ordered  their 
irons  to  be  struck  off,  and  in  his  quiet  way,  full  of  scorn,  said, 

"  Every  body  thinks  you  ought  to  die  for  your  treachery  upon  my  life,  amidst  the  sacred 
deliberations  of  a  council.  I  had  determined  to  inflict  death  upon  you  for  your  base  at 
tempt,  and  you  yourselves  must  be  sensible  that  you  have  justly  forfeited  your  lives;  but 
on  considering  the  meanness  of  watching  a  bear  and  catching  him  asleep,  I  have  found  out 
that  you  are  not  warriors,  only  old  women,  and  too  mean  to  be  killed  by  the  Big  Knife.  But,'' 
continued  he,  "  as  you  ought  to  be  punished  for  putting  on  breech  cloths  like  men,  they 
shall  be  taken  away  from  you,  plenty  of  provisions  shall  be  given  for  your  journey  home, 
as  women  don't  know  how  to  hunt,  and  during  your  stay  you  shall  be  treated  in  every  respect 
as  squaws." 

These  few  cutting  words  concluded,  the  colonel  turned  away  to  converse  with  others. 
The  children  of  the  prairie,  who  had  looked  for  anger,  not  contempt — punishment,  not 
freedom — were  unaccountably  stirred  by  this  treatment.  They  took  counsel  together,  and 
presently  a  chief  came  forward  with  a  belt  and  pipe  of  peace,  which,  with  proper  words, 
he  laid  upon  the  table.  The  interpreter  stood  ready  to  translate  the  words  of  friendship, 
but,  with  curling  lip,  the  American  said  he  did  not  wish  to  hear  them,  and  lifting  a  sword 
which  lay  before  him,  he  shattered  the  offered  pipe,  with  the  cutting  expression  that  "he 
did  not  treat  icith  women."  The  bewildered  and  overwhelmed  Meadow  Indians  next  asked 
the  intercession  of  other  red  men,  already  admitted  to  friendship,  but  the  only  reply  was, 
"The  Big  Knife  has  made  no  war  upon  these  people;  they  are  of  a  kind  that  we  shoot  like  wolves 
when  we  meet  them  in  the  woods,  lest  they  eat  the  deer." 

All  this  wrought  more  and  more  upon  the  offending  tribe;  again  they  took  counsel,  and 
then  two  young  men  came  forward,  and,  covering  their  heads  with  their  blankets,  sat 
down  before  the  impenetrable  commander;  then  two  chiefs  arose,  and  stated  that  these 
young  warriors  offered  their  lives  as  an  atonement  for  the  misdoings  of  their  relatives, 
again  they  presented  the  pipe  of  peace.  Silence  reigned  in  the  assembly,  while  the  fate 
of  the  proffered  victims  hung  in  suspense:  all  watched  the  countenance  of  the  American 
leader,  who  could  scarce  master  the  emotion  which  the  incident  excited.  Still  all  sat 
noiseless,  nothing  heard  but  the  deep  breathing  of  those  whose  lives  thus  hung  by  a  thread. 
Presently,  he  upon  whom  all  depended,  arose,  and,  approaching  the  young  men,  he  bade 
them  be  uncovered  and  stand  up.  They  sprang  to  their  feet. 

"  I  am  glad  to  find,"  said  Clark,  warmly, "  that  there  are  men  among  all  nations.  With 
you,  who  alone  are  fit  to  be  chiefs  of  your  tribe,  I  am  willing  to  treat;  through  you  I  am 
ready  to  grant  peace  to  your  brothers';  /  take  you  by  the  hands  as  chiefs,  worthy  of  being 
such." 

Here  again  the  fearless  generosity,  and  the  generous  fearlessness  of  Clark,  proved  per 
fectly  successful,  and  while  the  tribe  in  question  became  the  allies  of  America,  the  fame 
of  the  occurrence,  which  spread  far  and  wide  through  the  north-west,  made  the  name  of 
the  white  negotiator  every  where  respected. 

JACKSONVILLE,  the  capital  of  Morgan  county,  is  on  the  line  of  the  Great 
Western  Railroad,  34  miles  W.  from  Springfield,  and  222  from  Chicago.  It 
is  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  an  undulating  and  fertile  prairie,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Mauvaisterre  creek,  an  affluent  of  Illinois  River.  Perhaps 
no  place  of  its  size  contains  a  greater  number  of  churches,  charitable  insti 
tutions,  seminaries  of  learning,  and  the  town  has  been  denominated  "  the 
school-house  of  Illinois."  It  contains  the  Illinois  College,  which  occupies 


304 


ILLINOIS. 


a  beautiful  situation,  and  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  flourishing  in  the  state  ; 
the  Illinois  Conference  Female  College,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Methodists, 
having  had  at  one  time  400  pupils;  the  Berean  College, under  the  patronage  of 
the  Christian  denomination;  and  the  Jacksonville  Female  Seminary.  The 


North-eastern  mew  of  Illinois  College,  Jacksonville. 

The  Illinois  College  building  is  seen  in  the  central  part.  The  structure  on  the  right  was  for 
merly  used  as  a  chapel,  library,  etc.;  that  on  the  left  is  a  wing  remaining  of  the  former  College  build 
ing. 

state  institutions  are  the  Insane  Asylum,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution, 
and  the  Institution  for  the  Blind.  These  state  asylums  are  situated  rela 
tively  on  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle  around  the  town,  each  about  a  mile 
from  the  center.  All  of  the  buildings  for  these  institutions,  together  with 
those  for  literary  purposes,  are  of  the  first  order,  and  some  of  them  make  an 
imposing  appearance.  The  state  asylums  are  supported  by  the  state  tax, 
and  all  citizens  of  the  state  are  entitled  to  their  benefits  without  charge. 

One  of  the  first  originators  of  the  Illinois  College  was  the  late  Rev.  John  M. 
Ellis,  who  was  sent  by  the  American  Home  Missionary  Society,  to  the  infant  set 
tlements  of  this  state.  He  early  conceived  the  idea  of  founding  a  seminary  de 
voted  to  the  purposes  of  education,  on  a  somewhat  peculiar  plan.  The  first  attempt 
was  at  Shoal  creek,  in  Bond  county,  where  the  people  took  quite  an  interest  in 
the  undertaking.  A  committee  was  afterward  appointed  by  the  Presbytery  of 
Missouri  (with  which  the  Presbyterian  churches  of  this  state  were  then  connected), 
to  consider  the  subject  and  make  a  report.  A  tour  in  connection  with  this  subject 
was  taken  by  Messrs.  Ellis  and  Lippincott,  in  Jan.,  1828.  Having  visited  several 
places,  Saturday  night  overtook  them  on  the  south  side  of  Sandy  creek,  some  four 
or  five  miles  south  from  Jacksonville. 

Mr.  Ellis,  in  order  to  fulfill  his  appointment  to  preach,  continued  his  journey  on 
Sunday  morning.  "It  was  a  bright  splendid  morning.  The  winter  rain  had 
covered  every  twig  and  blade  of  prairie  grass  with  ice,  and  as  the  rising  sun  threw 
his  clear  rays  athwart  the  plain,  myriads  of  gems  sparkled  with  living  light,  and 
Diamond  Grove  might  almost  have  been  fancied  a  vast  crystal  chandelier."  The 
name  of  Diamond  Grove  was  considerably  more  ancient  than  the  name  or  exist 
ence  of  Jacksonville,  and  was  used  as  a  designation  of  the  region  around  it. 

The  most  convenient  place  for  the  people,  at  that  time,  to  assemble  on  that  Sab 
bath,  was  at  the  house  of  Judge  Leeper,  which  was  about  a  mile  south-east  from 
the  public  square,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  woodland,  which  borders  OH 


ILLINOIS.  305 

the  Mauvaisterre  creek,  and  nearly  east  of  the  spot  where  the  Insane  Hospital  now 
stands.  He  was  one  of  the  first  members  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  in  Jackson 
ville.  The  principal  sites  which  attracted  the  notice  of  the  commissioners  when 
here,  was  the  spot  now  known  as  the  mound  and  the  site  on  which  the  college 
stands. 

Mr.  Ellis  removed  his  residence  from  Kaskaskia  to  Jacksonville,  in  1828,  and 
the  same  year  made  a  report  to  the  society  respecting  the  seminary.  About  this 
period  seven  members  of  the  theological  department  of  Yale  College,  Conn.,  see 
ing  the  report  of  Mr.  Ellis,  pledged  themselves  to  devote  their  lives  to  the  cause  of 
Christianity  in  the  distant  and  then  wild  state  of  Illinois.  The  names  of  these 
young  men  were,  Theoron  M.  Grosvenor,  Theoron  Baldwin,  J.  M.  Sturtevant  (now 
president  of  the  college),  J.  T.  Brooks,  Elisha  Jenney,  William  Kirby  and  Asa 
Turner.  The  following  is  extracted  from  President  Sturtevant's  Historical  Dis 
course,  delivered  in  Jacksonville  on  the  Quarter  Century  Celebration  at  Illinois 
College,  July  11,  1855,  being  relative  to  his  first  visit  to  Jacksonville: 

"It  was  on  a  bright  Sabbath  morning,  the  15th  day  of  November,  a  little  after 
sunrise,  that  we  came  in  sight  of  Jacksonville.  It  was  already  called,  in  the  ordi 
nary  speech  of  the  people,  a  beautiful  place.  I  had  often  heard  it  called  so  my 
self;  and  beautiful  it  was,  when  the  bright  face  of  spring  was  again  spread  over 
it,  though  its  beauty  was  God's  work,  and  not  man's.  It  was  at  that  time  little 
better  than  a  group  of  log  cabins.  The  prairie  was  in  the  sombre  brown  of  autumn, 
with  scarce  a  tree  or  shrub  to  relieve  the  monotony.  To  the  north-west,  however, 
the  view  was  shut  in  by  an  elevation,  which  a  New  Englander  might  almost  recog 
nize  as  a  hill.  It  was  crowned  with  a  natural  grove.  Against  the  front  of  the 
grove  WAS  already  projected  an  edifice  of  brick,  which,  at  that  distance,  and  on 
such  an  elevation,  made  an  appearance  of  considerable  dignity  and  magnificence. 
The  site  on  which  it  stood  charmed  every  beholder.  It  was  the  south  half  of  what 
is  now  our  college  buildings,  then  in  process  of  erection.  We  were  most  cordially 
welcomed  at  the  humble,  but  none  the  less  hospitable,  dwelling  of  Mr.  Ellis.  *  * 

Our  arrival  was  expected,  and  preaching  was  appointed.  At  the  proper  hour 
we  repaired  to  the  place  of  worship.  What  would  our  people  say  now,  if  we  were 
to  invite  them  to  assemble  in  such  a  place  for  public  worship?  It  was  a  log  school 
house,  some  20  feet  square,  with  a  floor  of  split  logs,  and  seats,  so  far  as  there  were 
any  of  the  same,  with  holes  bored  in  them,  and  sticks  driven  in  for  legs.  The 
chimney  was  of  the  style  and  structure  most  approved  for  log-cabins,  built  out  of 
doors,  of  logs  and  sticks,  and  occupying  near  half  of  one  side  of  the  room.  Such 
was  its  condition  the  first  time  1  met  the  congregation  in  that  place.  Before  the 
next  Sabbath,  the  chimney  had  either  fallen  down  or  been  removed,  in  prepara 
tion  for  an  arrangement  for  warming  the  house  by  a  stove.  For  two  or  three  Sab 
baths  we  met  there,  before  this  vast  opening  in  one  side  was  again  closed  up.  Desk 
or  pulpit  there  was  none,  an  awkward  circumstance  to  one  just  from  the  school  of 
theology,  with  no  faith  in  the  possibility  of  preaching  without  a  manuscript  before 
him.  Yet,  on  that  day,  this  was  the  unlucky  predicament  of  your  speaker.  On 
the  first  Sabbath  the  audience  was  small,  and  a  chair  was  set  for  the  preacher  in 
one  corner  of  the  room.  On  the  second  Sabbath  the  house  was  crowded.  The 
chair  was  missing.  The  deficiency  of  seats  had  been  supplied  by  bringing  in  rails 
from  a  neighboring  fence,  and  laying  them  across  from  one  seat  to  another,  and 
thus  covering  over  the  whole  area  with  'sittings.'  Those  who  could  not  thus  be 
accommodated,  crowded  around  the  ample  opening  where  the  chimney  had  been, 
and  heard  standing  in  the  open  air.  There  was  a  state  of  democratic  equality  in 
the  congregation,  which  would  have  done  good  to  the  heart  of  a  thorough-going 
leveler.  The  preacher  found  a  seat,  where  he  could,  among  the  congregation ; 
laid  his  Bible  and  hymn  book  on  the  rail  by  his  side,  and  rose  in  his  place  and  ad 
dressed  the  congregation  as  best  he  might. 

When  the  day  appointed  arrived,  we  repaired  to  the  still  unfinished  edifice,  then 
a  full  mile  distant  from  Jacksonville,  where  we  found  the  room  which  has  ever 
since  been  used  as  a  chapel,  finished,  lacking  the  desk,  the  lathing  and  plastering, 
and  for  the  most  part  the  seating.  The  rest  of  the  building  was  in  a  still  more  un 
finished  condition.  Of  course  its  impression  was  far  enough  from  inviting.  Nine 
pupils  presented  themselves  on  that  day.  They  were  Alvin  M.  Dixon,  James  P. 

20 


306  ILLINOIS. 

Stewart,  from  Bond  county,  Merril  Rattan  and  Hampton  Rattan,  from  Greene 
county,  Samuel  R.  Simms,  Chatham  H.  Simms,  Rollin  Mears,  Charles  B.  Barton, 
and  a  youth  by  the  name  of  Miller,  of  Morgan  county.  They  were  all  to  begin 
their  studies  in  the  first  rudiments,  for  it  is  not  known  that  there  was,  at  that  time, 
in  the  state,  a  single  youth  fitted  for  the  freshman  class  in  an  American  college. 
The  pupils  were  called  together,  a  portion  of  scripture  was  read,  a  few  remarks 
were  made  on  the  magnitude  of  the  errand  which  had  brought  us  there." 

The  first  printing  office  in  Jacksonville,  was  set  up  by  James  G.  Edwards,  of 
Boston,  who  afterward  removed  to  Burlington,  Iowa.  He  was  the  printer  and  edi 
tor  of  the  "  Western  Observer."  His  printing  office  is  the  building  in  the  rear 
of  that  of  Dr.  Mavo  McLean  Reed,  a  native  of  South  Windsor,  Connecticut.  Dr. 
Reed  emigrated  to  Jacksonville  in  1830,  from  South  Windsor,  with  Mr.  Elihu 
Wolcott  and  his  family.  Mr.  W.  traveled  with  his  own  team  from  Connecticut, 
and  arrived  here  on  the  5th  of  November,  having  been  six  weeks  on  the 
journey. 

About  1,000  Portuguese  emigrants  reside  in  Jacksonville  and  its  immediate  vi 
cinity,  being  sent  here  by  a  society  in  New  York.  They  are  from  the  Island  of 
Maderia,  and  were  brought  to  embrace  the  Protestant  faith,  through  the  instru 
mentality  of  Dr.  Kally,  a  Scotchman  who  went  to  reside  in  Maderia  for  the  health 
of  his  wife.  They  have  a  minister  named  De  Mattoes,  who  preaches  in  their  na 
tive  language.  They  are  an  industrious  and  frugal  people :  most  of  them  have 
houses  of  their  own,  with  from  two  to  ten  acres  of  land:  a  few  have  30  or  40  acres. 
They  have  additions,  occasionally,  from  their  native  country. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  from  monuments  in  Jacksonville ;  the  first 
from  the  graveyard  in  the  vicinity  of  the  colleges;  the  others,  in  the  city 
graveyard.  Col.  Hardin  (the  inscription  on  whose  monument  is  given  below) 
was  much  esteemed,  and  represented  this  district  in  congress,  from  1843  to 
1845.  Being  at  the  head  of  the  Illinois  militia,  he  was  requested,  by  the 
governor  of  the  state,  to  take  the  command  of  a  regiment  of  Illinois  volun 
teers.  He  at  first  declined,  not  fully  approving  of  the  Mexican  War.  But 
being  over-persuaded,  and  desirous  of  obtaining  the  approbation  of  all  classes 
of  his  fellow-citizens,  he  finally  consented.  Tearing  himself  from  his  wife 
and  children,  he  embarked,  with  his  regiment,  for  Mexico;  but  as  in  many 
other  like  instances,  it  proved  with  him,  that 

"  The  paths  of  Glory  lead  but  to  the  Grave." 

In  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  Col.  Hardin  having  obtained  permission  -to 
march  upon  the  enemy  at  a  certain  point,  was  suddenly  attacked  by  an  over 
whelming  force  of  Mexicans  concealed  in  a  ravine,  when  he  fell  pierced  with 
many  wounds.  His  remains  were  found  among  the  slain,  brought  home  and 
interred  with  military  honors. 

ALEXANDER  DUNLOP,  born  May  6th,  A.D.  1791,  in  Fayette  Co.,  Kentucky.  Died  Nov.  10, 
A.D.  1853.  Alex.  Dunlop  volunteered  as  a  private  soldier  in  the  war  with  England  in  1812, 
and  was  taken  prisoner  at  Dudley's  defeat,  May  7,  1813.  Commanded  a  company  during 
the  Seminole  War,  also  the  detachment  that  captured  St.  Marks,  April  7,  1818,  making 
prisoners,  Arbuthnot  and  Ambrister.  Was  Grand  Master  of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Illinois, 
1843.  Was  commissioned  Major  of  the  U.  S.  Army  1816.  and  was  present  at  the  fall  of  Vera 
Cruz,  March  28,  1847. 

Pro  patria,  COL.  JOHN  J.  HARDIN,  of  the  1st  Reg.  of  111.  volunteers,  gloriously  fell  in  the 
battle  of  Buena  Vista,  Feb.  23,  1847.  Born  in  Frankfort,  Ky.,  on  the  6th  day  of  January, 
1810.  Died  on  the  field  of  battle  in  the  37th  year  of  his  age. 

WILLIAM  E.  PIERSON  died  Sept.  30,  1854,  on  the  eve  of  his  departure  to  the  Cherokee  Na 
tion,  being  under  appointment  as  missionary  teacher  by  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  aged  24.  He 
rests  in  hope. 


ILLINOIS. 


307 


BLOOMINGTON,  beautifully  situated  on  the  line  of  the  Illinois  Central 
Railroad,  is  61  miles  N.  E.  from  Springfield,  and  128  S.  W.  from  Chicago. 
It  is  regularly  laid  out  on  an  undulating  surface,  giving  a  fine  prospect  of 
the  fertile  prairie  lands  in  the  vicinity.  The  city  is  generally  very  neatly 


North   View  in   Bloomington. 

Showing  the  appearance  of  the  contra!  part  of  the  place,  as  it  is  entered  from  the  north  ;  the  new  Bap 
tist  Church,  and  the  Shaffer  and  Landon  Houses,  with  a  portion  of  the  old  Court  House,  are  seen  on  th« 
right  of  the  engraving  ;  the  2d  Presbyterian  and  the  Methodist  Churches  on  the  left. 

built,  having  the  appearance  of  thrift  and  prosperity,  and  some  of  the  build 
ings  near  the  public  square,  are  magnificent  in  their  appearance.  This  place 
contains  the  State  Normal  University,  the  Illinois  Wesleyan  University,  two 
female  seminaries,  several  banks,  11  churches,  various,  manufacturing  estab 
lishments,  and  a  population  of  about  8,000. 

The  first  settler  and  father  of  the  town,  was  John  Allin,  a  native  of  North  Caro 
lina,  who  was  raised  in  Ohio,  Kentucky  and  Indiana,  he  having  lived,  in  the  early 
period  of  his  life  in  each  of  those  states.  He  was  at  first  attracted  to  this  spot  by 
the  extreme  beauty  of  the  groves.  Being  acquainted  with  the  geography  of  the 
country,  he  found  it  was  on  a  direct  line  from  the  foot  of  the  rapids  of  the 
Illinois,  near  La  Halle  to  Cairo,  also  from  Chicago  to  Alton  and  St.  Louis.  These 
considerations  induced  him  to  locate  himself  on  this  point,  believing  it  was  des 
tined  to  become  one  of  importance.  It  was  for  a  period  called  Blooming  Grove, 
and  from  this  circumstance  Mr.  Allin  gave  it  its  present  name.  This  section  of 
country  appears  to  have  been  a  favorite  spot  with  the  Indians.  Mr.  A.  states  that 
he  had  seen  the  signs  or  remains  of  30  Indian  villages,  within  a  compass  of  30 
miles  around  Bloomington.  At  the  time  of  his  arrival,  two  tribes,  the  Kickapoos 
and  Delawares,  lived  within  some  15  or  20  miles.  The  Kickapoos  were  5  or  600; 
the  Delawares  were  about  half  that  number.  The  Kickapoos  left  in  1832. 

Mr.  Allin  came  in  1829,  and  erected  his  log  cabin  on  the  edge  of  the  timber  op 
posite  where  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  now  stands,  and  he  set  out  most  of  the 
trees  growing  in  that  vicinity.  He  brought  a  quantity  of  goods  with  him,  which 
he  kept  in  a  part  of  his  cabin,  and  opened  the  first  store  in  Bloomington.  Samuel 
Durley,  a  young  man  born  in  Kentucky,  then  nearly  of  age,  acted  as  clerk.  Rev. 
James  Latta,  the  second  settler,  built  his  habitation  about  20  rods  west  from  Mr. 
Allin 's ;  he  was  a  Methodist  preacher,  universally  esteemed  by  all  classes.  Mr. 


308 


ILLINOIS. 


Allin  found  him  living  in  a  cabin  about  four  miles  south-west  of  Bloomington,  on 
Sugar  creek,  and  induced  him  to  remove.  M.  L.  Covel,  and  Col.  A.  Gridley, 
merchants  from  the  state  of  New  York,  were  also  prominent  men  among  the  first 
settlers. 

The  first  school  house  was  built  in  1830.  It  was  constructed  of  logs,  and  stood 
on  the  edge  of  the  timber,  about  20  rods  west  of  Mr.  Allin 's  house.  This  was  the 
first  public  building  opened  for  religious  meetings.  The  first  seminary  was  opened 
by  Rev.  Lemuel  Foster,  in  1836;  he  lived,  preached,  and  kept  school  in  the  same 
building.  Mr.  Foster  was  originally  from  New  England,  and  was  the  first  Presby 
terian  minister,  if  we  except  a  Mr.  McGhor  or  Gear,  who  was  of  feeble  constitution, 
and  died  very  soon  after  his  arrival  in  the  place.  The  first  regular  physician  was 
John  Anderson,  of  Kentucky.  Henry  Miller,  from  Ohio,  kept  the  first  house  of  en 
tertainment:  it  was  a  log  house  a  few  rods  from  Mr.  Allin 'B. 


South-eastern  view  of  Peoria. 

Showing  the  appearance  of  the  central  part  of  the  city,  as  it  is  entered  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  Illi 
nois  River,  by  the  Railroad  and  the  Peoria  bridge.  Part  of  the  Railroad  bridge  is  seen  on  the  extreme 
left;  the  steamboat  landing  on  the  right.  The  draw  or  swing  of  the  bridge  is  represented  open  for  the 
passage  of  steamboats. 

McLean  county,  named  from  Judge  McLean,  of  Ohio,  was  formed  in  1831.  At 
this  period  there  were  but  30  or  40  families  living  within  the  present  limits  of  the 
county.  Mr.  Allin  donated  the  site  of  the  town  plot  for  the  county  seat.  The 
first  court  house  was  a  small  framed  building,  which  stood  on  the  present  public 
square.  Mr.  Allin  was  chosen  the  first  senator  from  the  county  in  1836,  and  con 
tinued  in  the  office  for  four  years.  Jesse  W.  Fell,  distinguished  for  his  enterprize 
and  public  spirit,  edited  and  published  the  BLOOMINGTON  OBSERVER,  the  first 
newspaper  printed  in  the  place.  It  was  printed  in  a  small  building  on  West  street, 
long  since  removed.  The  construction  of  the  Central  Railroad  with  the  grants 
of  lands  by  congress  on  the  route,  gave  an  important  impulse  to  the  prosperity  of 
the  town. 

PEORIA  is  situated  on  the  right  or  west  bank  of  Illinois  River,  at  the  out 
let  of  Peoria  Lake,  70  miles  north  from  Springfield,  193  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Illinois,  and  151  south-west  of  Chicago.  It  is  the  most  populous  town 
on  the  river,  and  one  of  the  most  important  and  commercial  in  the  state.  The 
river  is  navigable  for  steamboats  in  all  stages  of  water,  and  is  the  channel  of 


ILLINOIS.  309 

an  immense  trade  in  grain,  lumber,  pork,  etc.  It  has  a  regular  commu 
nication  with  St.  Louis  by  steamboats,  and  with  Chicago  by  means  of  the 
Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  and  by  railroads  to  places  in  every  direction. 
The  city  is  handsomely  situated  on  an  elevation  above  the  flood,  and  slopes 
gradually  to  the  river,  rendering  drainage  laws  unnecessary,  and  the  grading 
of  the  streets  an  easy  task.  The  streets  are  all  100  feet  wide.  Back  of  the 
town  is  a  range  of  bluffs,  from  60  to  100  feet  high,  commanding,  from  their 
summits,  a  most  extensive  and  beautiful  prospect.  It  has  numerous  steam 
mills,  distilleries,  manufactories,  etc.  It  contains  28  churches,  and  about 
16,000  inhabitants. 

Peoria  derived  its  name  from  the  Peorias,  one  of  the  five  tribes  known  as  the 
Illini,  or  Minneway  nation.  In  the  autumn  of  1679,  La  Salle  and  his  co-voyagers, 
from  Canada,  sailed  for  this  region  of  country,  by  way  of  the  lakes  to  Chicago', 
where  he  established  a  fort.  Leaving  a  few  men  for  a  garrison,  he  set  out  with 
his  canoes,  nine  in  number,  with  three  or  four  men  in  each,  about  the  1st  of 
December,  for  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  by  ascending  St.  Joseph  River, 
Michigan,  and  across  the  portage  to  Kan-ka-kee,  a  main  branch  of  the  Illinois 
River,  and  then  down  the  river  to  Peoria.  Among  La  Salle' s  companions,  were 
M.  de  Tonti,  who  acted  as  historian. 

M.  de  Tonti,  in  his  account  of  this  voyage,  says:  "The  same  day  (January  4, 
1680),  we  went  through  a  lake  formed  by  the  river,  about  seven  leagues  long  and 
one  broad.  The  savages  call  that  place  Pimitceuii,  that  is,  in  their  tongue,  'a  place 
where  there  is  abundance  of  fat  beasts.'  After  passing  through  this  [Peoria]  lake, 
they  came  again  to  the  channel  of  the  river,  and  found  themselves  between  two 
Indian  encampments.  This  was  where  the  bridges  are  now  built.  On  perceiving 
the  strangers,  the  Indians  fled;  but  some  were  bold  enough  to  return,  when  one 
of  their  chiefs  came  and  inquired  who  they  were,  and  what  were  their  objects. 
They  were  answered  by  the  interpreter,  that  they  were  French,  and  that  their  ob 
ject  was  to  make  known  to  them  the  God  of  Heaven;  to  offer  them  the  protec 
tion  of  the  King  of  France,  and  to  trade  with  them.  This  was  well  received^ 
and  the  calumet,  or  pipe  of  peace,  was  smoked  by  each  party  as  a  token  of 
peace  and  friendship.  A  great  feast  was  held,  which  lasted  for  several  days, 
attended  with  dancing,  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  and  firing  of  guns  and  other 
demonstrations  of  joy  on  the  part  of  the  French. 

M.  La  Salle  erected  a  fort  on  the  south-eastern  bank  of  the  Illinois,  which  he 
named  Creve-coeur  [Bursted  heart],  on  account  of  the  grief  he  felt  for  the  loss  of 
one  of  his  chief  trading  barks  richly  laden,  and  for  the  mutiny  and  villainous  con 
duct  of  some  of  his  companions  who  first  attempted  to  poison  and  then  desert  him. 
This  fort  is  supposed  to  have  stood  on  land  owned  by  Mr.  Wren,  some  two  or 
three  miles  eastward  of  Peoria.  The  exact  date  of  the  first  permanent  settlement 
in  Illinois,  can  not  now  be  ascertained,  unless  this  fort  or  trading  post  of  Creve- 
coeur  be  regarded  the  first,  and  there  is  no  evidence  that  this  remained  a  perma 
nent  station. 

After  the  conquest  of  Canada,  the  Illinois  country  fell  into  the  possession  of  Great 
Britain.  In  1766,  the  "Quebec  Bill"  passed  the  British  parliament,  which  placed 
Illinois  and  the  North-western  Territory  under  the  local  administration  of  Canada. 
The  conquest  of  the  North-western  Territory,  by  Col.  George  Rogers  Clark,  in  1778, 
was  the  next  event  of  importance.  It  was  brought  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
Virginia,  and  the  country  of  Illinois  was  organized.  In  the  year  1796,  Peoria 
was  described  as  "an  Indian  village,  composed  of  pseudo  savages,"  made  of  the 
native  tribe  of  "Peoriaca  Indians,"  and  "  Canadian  French,"  a  few  Indian  traders 
and  hunters.  In  Dec.,  1812,  a  Capt.  Craig  was  sent  here  by  Gov.  Edwards,  to 
chastise  the  disorderly  Indians  and  their  allies,  if  any  of  them  might  be  found  at 
this  little  French  village.  Capt.  Craig  found  a  pretext  for  burning  this  French 
town,  which  had  been  laid  out  by  them,  embracing  about  one  half  of  the  1st  ward 
of  the  present  city,  the  center  of  this  village  being  at  or  about  the  entrance 
of  the  bridge  across  the  Illinois  River.  Capt.  Craig  excused  himself  for  this 
act,  by  accusing  the  French  of  being  in  league  with  the  Indians,  and  by  alleging 


310  ILLINOIS. 

that  his  boats  were  fired  upon  from  the  town,  while  lying  at  anchor  before  it. 
This  the  French  inhabitants  denied,  and  charged  Craig  with  unprovoked  cruelty. 
This  place  was  then  called  "La  mile  Mailleit"  from  its  founder,  Hypolite 
•Mailleit,  who  moved  here  in  1778,  and  commenced  the  building  of  ihisvil/e. 

In  1830,  John  Harnlin  and  John  Sharp  built  the  first  flouring  mill  ever  erected 
in  this  part  of  the  state,  on  the  Kickapoo,  or  Red  Bud  creek,  about  three  miles  W. 
of  Peoria.  The  next  was  erected  in  Oct.,  1837,  by  Judge  Hale  and  John  Easton, 
about  four  miles  from  the  city.  In  the  spring  of  1834,  the  only  building  W.  of 
the  corner  of  Main  and  Washington-streets  was  a  barn;  the  entire  town  then  con 
sisted  of  but  seven  framed  houses,  and  about  thrice  that  number  of  log  tenements 
—  but  during  this  season  about  forty  houses  and  stores  were  erected.  About  this 
time,  the  old  jail,  standing  on  the  alley  between  Monroe  and  Perry-streets,  was 
built,  a  hewn  log  building,  only  16  feet  square  and  14  high ;  the  lower  story  formed 
for  a  cell,  entered  by  a  trap  door  from  the  second  story,  which  was  used  for  a  com 
mon  prison.  The  court  house  was  a  log  building  on  the  bank,  in  which  the  jurors 
slept  at  night  on  their  blankets  on  the  floor.  The  courts  being  usually  held  in  warm 
weather,  alfter  the  grand  jurors  received  their  charge,  in  court  time,  the  grand 
jury  sat  under  the  shade  of  a  crab  apple  tree,  and  the  petit  jury  in  a  potato  hole 
(that  had  been  partially  filled  up)  in  the  vicinity.  The  venerable  Isaac  Waters 
was  clerk  of  the  court.  His  office  and  dwelling  were  in  a  small  log  cabin,  where 
now  stands  Toby  &  Anderson's  plow  factory.  J.  L.  Bogardus,  the  postmaster,  kept 
his  office  in  a  log  cabin  near  Sweney  &  Ham's  steam  mill. 

Peoria  was  incorporated  as  a  town  in  1831,  and  as  a  city  in  1844.  The  first  city 
officers  were  Hon.  Wm.  Hale,  mayor ;  Peter  Sweat,  Chester  Hamlin,  Clark  Cleave- 
land,  Harvey  Lightner,  J.  L.  Knowlton,  John  Hamlin,  Charles  Kettelle,  and  A.  P. 
Bartlett,  as  aldermen.  The  Peoria  bridge,  across  the  Illinois  River,  with  its  abut 
ments,  is  2,600  feet  long,  was  finished  in  1849,  and  cost  of  about  $33,000.  In  1818 
the  first  canal  boat  arrived  from  Lake  Michigan.  The  first  steamboat  that  arrived 
at  Peoria  was  the  "  Liberty,"  in  the  month  of  December,  1829.  The  first  news 
paper  was  the  "  Illinois  Champion,"  published  by  A.  S.  Buxton  and  Henry  Wol- 
ford,  March  10,  1834.  The  first  daily  paper  was  called  the  "Daily  Register,"  pub 
lished  by  Picket  &  Woodcock;  the  first  number  was  issued  June  28,  1848. 

The  Methodist  Episcopal  church,  the  first  formed  in  the  place,  was  organized  in 
Aug.,  1834,  by  Rev.  Zadock  Hall,  of  the  Chicago  circuit,  Dr.  Heath,  of  St.  Louis, 
and  Rev.  John  St.  Clair,  of  Ottawa.  Their  meetings,  at  first,  were  held  in  the  old 
court  house.  The  first  church  edifice,  the  Main-street  Presbyterian  church,  was 
erected  April,  1836.  The  church,  consisting  of  eight  members,  was  organized 
in  Dec.,  1834,  by  Rev  Romulus  Barnes  and  Rev.  Flavel  Bascom.  St.  Jude's  church 
(Episcopal)  was  organized  here  in  1834;  St.  Paul's  church  building  was  erected  in 
Sept.,  1850.  The  Baptist  church  was  constituted  in  Aug.,  1836.  The  Second 
Presbyterian  church  was  organized  Oct.,  1840. 

The  following  sketch  of  a  campaign  against  the  Indians,  at  Peoria  and 
vicinity,  in  the  war  of  1812,  is  from  Peck's  edition  of  Perkins'  Annals: 

During  the  campaign  in  the  summer  and  autumn  of  1813,  all  the  companies  of 
rangers,  from  Illinois  and  Missouri,  were  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Howard. 
Large  parties  of  hostile  Indians  were  known  to  have  collected  about  Peoria,  and 
scouting  parties  traversed  the  district  between  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  Rivers, 
then  an  entire  wilderness. 

It  was  from  these  marauding  parties  that  the  frontier  settlements  of  Illinois  and 
Missouri,  were  harassed.  It  became  an  object  of  no  small  importance,  to  pene 
trate  the  country  over  which  they  ranged,  and  establish  a  fort  at  Peoria,  and  thus 
drive  them  to  the  northern  wilderness.  Our  authorities  for  the  incidents  of  the 
campaign,  are  a  long  letter  from  the  honorable  John  Reynolds,  who  was  a  non-com 
missioned  officer  in  a  company  of  spies,  and  the  'Missouri  Gazette,'  of  November 
6th  The  rendezvous  for  the  Illinois  regiment  was  'Camp  Russell,'  two  miles 
north  of  Edwardsville.  The  whole  party,  when  collected,  made  up  of  the  rangers, 
volunteers  and  militia,  amounted  to  about  1,400  men,  under  the  command  of  Gen. 


ILLINOIS  3H 

Howard.  Robert  Wash,  Esq.,  and  Dr.  Walker,  of  St.  Louis,  were  of  his  staff. 
Colonels  Benjamin  Stephenson,  then  of  Randolph  county,  Illinois,  and  Alexan 
der  McNair,  of  St.  Louis,  commanded  the  regiments.  W.  B.  Whiteside  and  John 
Moredock,  of  Illinois,  were  majors  in  the  second  regiment,  and  William  Christy 
and  Nathan  Boone,  filled  the  same  office  in  the  first,  or  Missouri  regiment.  A  Maj. 
Desha,  a  United  States  officer  from  Tennessee,  was  in  the  army,  but  what  post 
he  occupied  we  do  not  learn.  Col.  B.  B.  Clemson,  of  the  United  States  Army, 
was  inspector.  Gov.  Reynolds  states,  there^were  some  United  States  rangers  from 
Kentucky,  and  a  company  from  Vincennes.  We  have  no  means  of  ascertaining 
the  names  of  all  the  subaltern  officers.  We  know  that  Samuel  Whiteside,  Joseph 
Phillips,  Nathaniel  Journey  and  Samuel  Judy,  were  captains  in  the  Illinois 
companies. 

The  Illinois  regiment  lay  encamped  on  the  Piasa,u,  opposite  Portage  de  Sioux, 
waiting  for  more  troops,  for  three  or  four  weeks.  They  then  commenced  the 
march,  and  swam  their  horses  over  the  Illinois  River,  about  two  miles  above  the 
mouth.  On  the  high  ground  in  Calhoun  county,  they  had  a  skirmish  with  a  party 
of  Indians.  The  Missouri  troops,  with  Gen.  Howard,  crossed  the  Mississippi  from 
Fort  Mason,  and  formed  a  junction  with  the  Illinois  troops.  The  baggage  and  men 
were  transported  in  canoes,  and  the  horses  swam  the  river. 

The  army  marched  for  a  number  of  days  along  the  Mississippi  bottom.  On 
or  near  the  site  of  Quincy,  was  a  large  Sac  village,  and  an  encampment,  that  must 
have  contained  a  thousand  warriors.  It  appeared  to  have  been  deserted  but  a 
short  period. 

The  army  continued  its  march  near  the  Mississippi,  some  distance  above  the 
Lower  Rapids,  and  then  struck  across  the  prairies  for  the  Illinois  River,  which 
they  reached  below  the  mouth  of  Spoon  River,  and  marched  to  Peoria  village. 
Here  was  a  small  stockade,  commanded  by  Col.  Nicholas  of  the  United  Statee 
Army.  Two  days  previous  the  Indians  had  made  an  attack  on  the  fort,  and  wers 
repulsed.  The  army,  on  its  march  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Illinois  River,  found 
numerous  fresh  trails,  all  passing  northward,  which  indicated  that  the  savages  were 
fleeing  in  that  direction. 

Next  morning  the  general  marched  his  troops  to  the  Senatchwine,  a  short  dis 
tance  above  the  head  of  Peoria  Lake,  where  was  an  old  Indian  village,  called 
Gomo's  village.  Here  they  found  the  enemy  had  taken  water  and  ascended  the  Illi 
nois.  This,  and  two  other  villages,  were  burnt.  Finding  no  enemy  to  fight,  the  army 
was  marched  back  to  Peoria,  to  assist  the  regular  troops  in  building  Fort  Clark,  so 
denominated  in  memory  of  the  old  hero  of  1778;  and  Maj.  Christy,  with  a  party, 
was  ordered  to  ascend  the  river  with  two  keel  boats,  duly  armed  and  protected,  to 
the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  break  up  any  Indian  establishments  that  might  be  in 
that  quarter.  Maj.  Boone,  with  a  detachment,  was  dispatched  to  scour  the  coun 
try  on  Spoon  River,  in  the  direction  of  Rock  River. 

The  rangers  and  militia  passed  to  the  east  side  of  the  Illinois,  cut  timber,  which 
they  hauled  on  truck  wheels  by  drag  ropes  to  the  lake,  and  rafted  'it  across.  The 
fort  was  erected  by  the  regular  troops  under  Capt.  Phillips.  In  preparing  the 
timber,  the  rangers  and  militia  were  engaged  about  two  weeks. 

Maj.  Christy  and  the  boats  returned  from  the  rapids  without  any  discovery,  ex 
cept  additional  proofs  of  the  alarm  and  fright  of  the  enemy,  and  Maj.  Boone  re 
turned  with  his  force  with  the  same  observations. 

It  was  the  plan  of  Gen.  Howard  to  return  by  a  tour  through  the  Rock  River 
valley,  but  the  cold  weather  set  in  unusually  early.  By  the  middle  of  October  it 
was  intensely  cold,  the  troops  had  no  clothing  for  a  winter  campaign,  and  their 
horses  would,  in  all  probability,  fail;  the  Indians  had  evidently  fled  a  long  distance 
in  the  interior,  so  that,  all  things  considered,  he  resolved  to  return  the  direct  route 
to  Camp  Russell,  where  the  militia  and  volunteers  were  disbanded  on  the  22d  of 
October,  Supplies  of  provisions,  and  munitions  of  war  had  been  sent  to  Peoria,  in 
boats,  which  had  reached  there  a  few  days  previous  to  the  army. 

It  may  seem  to  those,  who  delight  in  tales  of  fighting  and  bloodshed,  that  this 
expedition  was  a  very  .insignificant  affair.  Vrery  few  Indians  were  killed,  very 
little  fighting  done,  but  one  or  two  of  the  army  were  lost,  and  yet,  as  a  means  of 
protecting  the  frontier  settlements  of  these  territories,  it  was  most  efficient,  and 


312 


ILLINOIS. 


gave  at  least  six  months  quiet  to  the  people.  After  this,  Indians  shook  their  heads 
and  said,  '  White  men  like  the  leaves  in  the  forest — like  the  grass  in  the  prairies — 
they  grow  everywhere.' " 


Distant  view  of  Quincy,  from  the  south. 

The  engraving  shows  the  appearance  of  Quincy,  when  first  seen  on  approaching  it  from  the  south  by  the 
Mississippi.  Thayer's  Alcohol  Factory  and  Comstock  &  Co.'s  Iron  Foundry  are  seen  on  the  right:  the 
Central  Mill  and  Grain  Depot  on  the  left;  between  these  two  points  is  a  range  of  limestone  quarries.  Just 
above  the  Central  Mill  is  the  steam  and  ferry  boat  landing;  also  mills,  stores,  shops,  etc.  The  city  is  par 
tially  seeu  on  the  blnffi. 

QUINCY,  the  county  seat  of  Adams  county  and  a  port  of  entry,  is  situated 
on  a  beautiful  elevation,  about  125  feet  above  the  Mississippi,  and  commands 
a  fine  view  for  five  or  six  miles  in  each  direction.  It  is  109  miles  from 
Springfield,  268  miles  from  Chicago,  by  railroad,  and  160  above  St.  Louis. 
It  contains  a  large  public  square,  a  court  house,  many  beautiful  public  and 
private  edifices,  several  banks,  a  number  of  extensive  flouring  and  other 
mills,  and  manufactories  of  various  kinds,  with  iron  founderies,  machine 
Bhops,  etc.  Flour  is  exported  to  a  great  extent,  and  large  quantities  of  pro 
visions  are  packed.  The  bluffs  in  front  of  the  city  may  be  considered  as  one 
vast  limestone  quarry,  from  which  building  stone  of  a  hard  and  durable 
quality  can  be  taken  and  transported  to  any  section  of  the  country,  by  steam 
boat  and  railroad  facilities  immediately  at  hand.  Five  newspapers  are  printed 
here,  three  daily  and  two  in  the  German  language,  one  of  which  is  daily. 
Population  about  16,000. 

The  "Quincy  English  and  German  Male  and  Female  Seminary,"  an  in 
corporated  and  recently  established  institution,  is  designed  for  a  male  and 
female  college  of  the  highest  grade,  for  which  a  large  and  elegant  building 
is  already  constructed.  The  streets  cross  at  right  angles,  those  running  N. 
and  S.  bear  the  name  of  the  states  of  the  Union.  The  present  bounds  of 
the  city  extend  two  and  a  half  miles  each  way.  The  river  at  the  landing  is 
one  mile  wide.  Running  along  and  under  the  N.W.  front  of  the  city,  lies  a 
beautiful  bay,  formerly  called  "  Boston  Bay,"  from  the  circumstance  of  a 


ILLINOIS. 


313 


Bostonian  having  once  navigated  his  craft  up  this  bay,  mistaking  it  for  the 
main  channel  of  the  river. 

Quincy  was  originally  selected  as  a  town  site  by  John  Wood,  of  the  state  of  New 
York ;  for  several  years  he  was  mayor  of  this  city  and  lieutenant  governor  of  the 
state.  Mr.  Wood  built  his  cabin  (18  by  20  feet)  in  Dec.,  1822,  without  nails  or 
sawed  lumber.  This  building,  the  first  in  the  place,  stood  near  the  foot  of  Dela 
ware-street  j  about  15  rods  E.  of  Thayer's  alcohol  factory.  At  this  time  there  were 
only  three  white  inhabitants  within  the  present  county  of  Adams,  and  these  were 
obliged  to  go  to  Atlas,  40  miles  distant,  to  a  horse  mill  for  corn  meal,  their  princi 
pal  breadstuff.  In  Nov.,  1825,  the  county  court  ordered  a  survey  and  plat  of  the 
town  to  be  made,  and  the  lots  to  be  advertised  for  sale.  Henry  H.  Snow,  the  clerk, 
and  afterward  judge,  laid  off  230  lots,  99  by  108  feet,  reserving  a  public  square  in 
the  center  of  the  town.  It  received  its  name,  Quincy,  on  the  day  that  John  Quincy 
Adams  was  inaugurated  president  of  the  United  States. 

On  the  present  site  of  Quincy  once  stood  an  old  Sac  village.  At  the  time  the 
town  was  surveyed,  it  was  covered  with  forest  trees  and  hazel  bushes,  excepting 
about  two  acres  of  prairie  ground  where  the  public  square  was  laid  out.  In  the 
trees  in  the  vicinity  of  the  place,  balls  were  found  which  had  been  shot  into  them 
fifty  or  more  years  before.  A  few  years  since  an  iron  ring  and  staple  were  found 
sixty  feet  below  the  earth's  surface.  In  the  mounds  in  and  about  the  city  are 
found  Indian  bones  and  armor  of  ancient  date. 

John  Wood,  from  the  state  of  New  York;  Henry  H.  Snow,  from  New  Hamp 
shire  ;  Willard  Keyes,  from  Vermont ;  Jeremiah  Rose  and  Rufus  Brown,  from 
New  York ;  and  Ashur  Anderson,  from  Pennsylvania,  may  be  considered  as  prom 
inent  men  among  the  first  settlers.  Drs.  J.  N.  Ralston,  from  Kentucky,  and  S.  W. 
Rogers,  from  New  York,  were  the  first  physicians  in  the  order  of  time.  The  first 
house  of  worship  in  the  place,  was  erected  by  the  First  Congregationalist  Society, 
in  1833  and  '34:  Rev.  Asa  Turner,  from  Massachusetts,  was  the  first  minister.  The 
building  is  now  used  as  a  carriage  shop,  on  Fourth-street,  and  stands  on  the  spot 
where  it  was  first  erected.  The  first  school  was  taught,  in  1827,  by  Mr.  Mendall, 
in  a  log  school  house,  which  stood  on  a  lot  fronting  Hampshire-street,  between 
Second  and  Third-streets.  The  first  court  house  and  jail  was  built  of  logs,  and 
was  nearly  on  the  spot  where  the  present  court  house  is  situated.  C.  M.  Wood, 
from  New  York,  was  the  first  printer ;  he  printed  the  first  paper,  the  "  Illinois 
Bounty  Land  Register,"  in  1835,  since  merged  into  the  Quincy  Herald.  The  first 
ferry  was  established  by  Willard  Keyes.  The  first  store  was  opened,  in  1826,  by 
Ashur  Anderson,  who  opened  his  stock,  valued  at  $1,000,  in  Brown's  log  tavern. 
In  1828,  Robert  Tillson  and  Charles  Holmes  established  themselves  as  merchants 
in  a  log  cabin  on  the  north  side  of  the  square,  in  what  was  later  known  as  the 
old  "  Land  Office  Hotel."  Afterward,  they  erected  for  their  accommodation  the 
first  framed  building  in  the  town.  It  still  remains,  and  has  long  been  known  as 
the  old  "  Post  Office  Corner." 

"  Without  access  to  market,  or  to  mill,  the  first  settlers  of  Quincy  built  their  houses 
without  nails,  brick,  or  mortar,  the  principal  utensils  used  being  the  axe  and  the  auger. 
The  necessaries  of  life  were  scarcely  attainable,  to  say  nothing  of  the  luxuries.  In  the 
cultivation  of  their  land,  viz.:  30  acres  of  corn  (without  fence)  they  were  obliged  to  go  30 
miles  to  have  their  plows  sharpened.  One  man  would  swing  a  plowshare  on  each  side  of 
an  Indian  pony,  pile  on  such  other  articles  of  iron  as  needed  repairs,  lay  in  a  stock  of  pro 
visions,  mount  and  set  out." 

The  number  of  inhabitants  during  the  first  year  increased  to  sixteen;  from  1825  to  1835, 
they  increased  to  five  hundred;  during  all  which  time  they  continued  to  import  their  bacon 
and  flour.  As  late  as  1832,  when  the  Black  Hawk  war  broke  out,  the  Indians,  principally 
of  the  Sac  and  Fox  tribes,  were  very  numerous,  the  shores  of  the  river  being  frequently 
covered  with  their  wigwams,  both  above  and  below  the  town.  Coming  in  from  their  hunt 
ing  excursions,  they  brought  large  quantities  of  feathers,  deer-skins,  moccasins,  beeswax, 
honey,  maple  sugar,  grass  floor  mats,  venison,  muskrat  and  coon-skins. 


ALTON  is  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  25  miles  N.  from  St.  Louis, 
3  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  River,  20  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Illinois,  and  75  miles  S.W.  of  Springfield.  The  site  of  the  city  is  quite  un- 


314 


ILLINOIS. 


even  and  broken,  with  high  and  stony  bluffs,  and  in  front  of  it  the  Missis 
sippi  runs  almost  a  due  course  from  east  to  west.  The  city  contains  a  splen 
did  city  hall,  10  churches,  and  a  cathedral  in  its  interior  superior  to  anything 
of  the  kind  in  the  western  states.  Five  newspapers  are  published  here.  As 


North-western  view  of  Alton. 

The  view  is  from  Prospect-street,  taken  by  Mr.  Roeder,  and  designed  by  him  for  a  large  engraving.  On 
the  left  of  the  picture  is  the  Railroad  Depot,  above  which  is  the  Methodist  church.  On  the  right  is  the  Pen 
itentiary  and  Steamboat  landing.  In  the  central  part  appear  the  Unitarian,  Episcopal,  Baptist,  and  Pres 
byterian  churches,  and  the  City  Hall.  On  the  right,  in  the  distance,  is  seen  the  Missouri  shore  of  the 
Mississippi,  also  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  River,  at  its  entrance  into  the  "  Father  of  Waters." 


a  manufacturing  point,  Alton  has  hardly  an  equal  on  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  the  city  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition,  having  at  hand  limestone  for 
building  purposes,  mines  of  bituminous  coal,  beds  of  the  finest  clay  for  brick 
and  earthen  ware,  with  railroad  and  steamboat  communication  to  every  point. 
The  state  penitentiary  was  located  here  in  1827.  Population  1860,  6,333. 

Upper  Alton  is  located  on  the  high  rolling  timber  land,  in  the  rear  of  Al 
ton  city,  two  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  and  has  a  population  of  upward  of 
2,000.  The  manufacturing  business  is  considerable,  particularly  cooper 
ing,  potters'  ware,  etc.  The  town  was  laid  out,  in  1817,  by  J.  Meacham, 
from  Vermont;  several  additions  have  been  since  made.  SJiurtleff  College, 
named  from  Dr.  Shurtleff,  of  Boston,  is  in  the  limits  of  the  town,  and  is  a 
flourishing  institution  under  the  charge  of  the  Baptist  denomination. 

The  Monticello  Female  Seminary,  four  miles  from  Alton,  founded  by  Capt. 
Benjamin  Godfrey,  was  the  first  female  seminary  built  in  Illinois,  and  is  of 
high  reputation.  This  institution  was  opened  for  pupils  in  1838.  Rev. 
Theoron  Baldwin  had  the  charge  of  the  first  scholars.  Capt.  Godfrey,  its 
founder,  was  a  sea  captain,  jind  has  been  long  distinguished  for  his  public 
spirit,  and  the  sacrifices  which  he  has  made  for  the  public  good. 

The  first  resident  in  Alton  appears  to  have  been  John  Bates,  a  blacksmith,  from 


ILLINOIS. 


315 


Tennessee.  He  located  himself  at  the  head  of  the  American  bottom  lands  in  Lower 
Alton,  where  he  cultivated  a  small  farm,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  steamboat 
landing  in  Alton.  A  man  in  his  employ  was  killed  by  the  Indians  while  plowing 
on  this  farm.  The  first  settlers  who  located  in  Upper  Alton,  about  two  miles  back 
from  the  river,  came  in  from  1808  to  1812,  and  were  principally  from  Kentucky  and 
Tennessee.  They  lived  in  block-houses  for  protection.  This  place  is  called  Hun 
ter's  town  on  section  13,  and  is  now  within  the  city  limits.  Col.  Rufus  Easton, 
delegate  from  Missouri,  located  Alton  proper  on  section  14.  He  sold  a  large  por 
tion  of  Lower  Alton  to  Maj.  C.  W.  Hunter,  in  1818,  together  with  several  other 
tracts  adjoining,  which  Maj.  H.  afterward  laid  out  as  an  addition,  and  are  now  with 
in  the  city  limits. 

Maj.  Charles  W.  Hunter  was  a  native  of  Waterford,  N.  Y.,  a  son  of  Robert  Hun 
ter,  of  Pennsylvania,  a  favorite  officer  under  Gen.  Wayne,  who  led  the  forlorn  hope 
at  the  storming  of  Stony  Point,  in  the  Revolution,  and  also  accompanied  him  after 
ward  in  the  Indian  war  at  the  west.  Mr.  Hunter,  in  the  war  of  1812,  served  as 
major  in  the  35th  Reg.  U.  S.  infantry.  At  the  close  of  the  war  he  resigned  his 
commission  and  went  to  St.  Louis,  where  he  engaged  in  merchandise  and  the  In 
dian  trade.  After  his  purchase  from  Col.  Easton,  he  removed  his  family  here,  in 
1819,  and  built  the  first  framed  house  in  Alton  (now  standing),  and  opened  in  it 
the  first  regular  store  in  the  place.  He  brought  his  goods  here  in  a  barge,  which 
he  had  used  in  the  New  Orleans  trade. 

The  Methodist  itinerating  preachers  appear  to  have  been  the  first  in  the  order  of 
time  who  visited  Alton;  they  preached  in  the  school  house  in  Upper  Alton,  and  in 
private  houses.  The  first  Presbyterian  church  (of  stone)  was  erected  by  Capt. 
Godfrey,  of  the  firm  of  Godfrey,  Gilman  &  Co.  Mr.  Joseph  Meacham,  who  laid 
out  Upper  Alton,  was  a  surveyor  from  New  England.  It  was  laid  out  on  an  ex 
tensive  scale,  and  lots  and  blocks  were  reserved  for  the  support  of  a  free  school. 
The  proceeds  were  accordingly  reserved  for  this  purpose,  and  Alton  is  entitled  to 
the  honor  of  establishing  the  first  public  free  school  in  Illinois.  The  first  teacher 
was  Deacon  Henry  H.  Snow,  of  New  Hampshire.  Mr.  S.  has  since  removed  to 
Quincy,  in  which  place  he  has  held  many  public  offices. 

Up  to  1827,  the  "  town  of  Alton  "  made  but  very  little  progress.  Upper  Alton 
completely  overshadowed  it.  The  location  of  the  penitentiary  here  gave  quite  an 
impulse  to  the  place.  In  1831,  the  Alton  Manufacturing  Company  built  the  large 
steam  flouring  mill,  on  the  river  bank,  in  front  of  the  penitentiary.  In  1832,  O. 
M.  Adams  and  Edward  Breath  started  the  "Weekly  Spectator."  In  1836,  the  Al 
ton  and  Springfield  road  was  surveyed  by  Prof.  Mitchell,  of  Cincinnati.  In  1836, 
Tread  way  and  Parks  commenced  the  publication  of  the  "  Weekly  Alton  Tele 
graph."  *  In  the  spring  of  this  year,  Rev.  E.  P.  Lovejoy  commenced  the  publica 
tion  of  a  weekly  religious  newspaper,  called  the  "  Alton  Observer."  The  ''Alton 
Presbytery  Reporter''  was  started  in  1845,  also  the  "Courier"  newspaper,  etc., 
office,  several  splendid  founderies  and  machine  shops,  two  German  newspapers,  and 
the  "Alton  National  Democrat."  The  city  of  Alton  was  incorporated  in  1837. 

Alton  is  the  place  where  Elijah  P.  Lovejoy,  in  1837,  fell  while  defending 
his  press  from  an  attack  by  a  mob.  His  remains  were  interred  in  the  Alton 
cemetery,  a  beautiful  spot  donated  by  Maj.  C.  W.  Hunter  to  the  city.  The 
Anti-Slavery  Society  of  Illinois  are  taking  steps  for  the  erection  of  a  monu 
ment  from  75  to  100  feet  high,  which,  if  constructed,  will  be  a  most  conspicu 
ous  object,  for  a  great  distance,  for  all  who  are  passing  up  or  down  the  Mis 
sissippi  and  Missouri  Rivers. 

Rev.  E.  P.  Lovejoy  was  born  Nov.  9,  1802,  at  Albion,  Kennebec  county,  Maine, 
then  a  part  of  Massachusetts.  He  was  educated  at  Waterville  College,  Me.  y  where 
he  graduated  with  the  highest  honors  of  his  class.  In  the  latter  part  of  1827,  he 
went  to  St.  Louis,  where  he  immediately  engaged  in  teaching  a  school.  He  after 
ward  entered  the  Theological  Seminary  at  Princeton,  to  prepare  himself  for  the 
ministry.  He  returned  to  St.  Louis,  and,  at  the  request  of  his  friends,  was  induced 
to  become  the  editor  of  a  religious  weekly  newspaper,  and  accordingly,  on  the  22d 
of  Nov.,  1833,  the  first  number  of  the  "  St.  Louis  Observer"  was  issued.  In  July, 


316  ILLINOIS. 

1836,  on  account  of  the  strong  anti-slavery  sentiments  advocated  in  the  paper,  it 
became  quite  unpopular  in  St.  Louis,  and,  taking  the  advice  of  his  friends,  he  re 
moved  it  to  Alton. 

After  the  removal  of  the  Observer  office  to  Alton,  its  course  on  the  abolition  of 
slavery  gave  much  offense  to  a  portion  of  the  inhabitants.  A  meeting  was  called, 
Mr.  Lovejoy's  course  was  denounced,  and  on  the. night  of  the  21st  of  August,  1837, 
<•.  party  of  some  15  or  20  men  broke  into  the  Observer  office,  and  destroyed  the 
press  and  printing  materials.  Another  press  was  procured,  and  stored  in  the 
warehouse  of  Messrs.  Godfrey,  Oilman  &  Co.,  standing  on  the  wharf  at  Alton. 
Threats  having  been  given  that  this  press  would  also  be  destroyed,  Mr.  Lovejoy 
and  some  of  his  friends  assembled  to  defend  their  property.  On  the  night  of  Kov. 
7,  1837,  a  mob,  at  first  consisting  of  about  30  individuals,  armed,  some  with  stones 
and  some  with  guns  and  pistols,  formed  themselves  in  a  line  by  the  warehouse. 
Mr.  Gilman,  one  of  the  'owners  of  the  building,  then  asked  them  "what  they 
wanted?"  To  which  they  replied,  "the  press."  Mr.  G.  replied,  that,  being  au 
thorized  by  the  mayor,  they  would  defend  their  property  at  the  hazard  of  life. 
The  mob  commenced  throwing  stones,  dashing  in  several  windows,  and  then  fired 
two  or  three  guns  into  the  building.  The  fire  was  then  returned  from  within,  two 
or  three  guns  discharged  upon  the  rioters,  one,  by  the  name  of  Bishop,  was  mor 
tally  wounded,  and  several  others  injured.  This,  for  a  while,  checked  the  mob, 
but  they  soon  returned  with  increased  numbers  and  violence.  They  raised  ladders 
on  the  warehouse,  and  kindled  a  fire  on  the  roof.  Mr.  Lovejoy  and  some  of  the 
inmates  of  the  building  stepped  to  the  door,  and  while  looking  around  just  with 
out  the  threshold,  some  one,  concealed  behind  a  pile  of  lumber,  fired  a  double  bar 
reled  gun,  when  Mr.  Lovejoy  was  struck  with  five  balls,  and  expired  in  a  few  mo 
ments. 

The  following  is  the  principal  part  of  a  communication  upon  this  riot,  given  by 
the  mayor  of  Alton  to  the  public,  dated  Nov.  6,  1837 : 

For  several  days  past  it  had  been  announced  and  generally  believed,  that  a  printing  press 
was  hourly  expected  to  be  landed  at  our  wharf.  It  had  also  been  a  current  rumor  that  this 
press  rvas  intended  for  the  re- establishment  of  the  "Alton  Observer."  The  circulation  of 
these  rumors  produced  no  small  degree  of  excitement,  among  those  who  had  taken  a  de 
cided  stand  against  the  abolition  sentiments  that  were  understood  to  have  been  disseminat 
ed  through  the  columns  of  the  "Observer."  Various  reports  of  a  threatening  character, 
against  the  landing  of  the  press,  were  in  circulation,  which  led  the  friends  of  the  Observer 
and  its  editor  to  make  preparations  to  defend  the  press,  in  case  any  violence  should  be  of 
fered  by  those  opposed  to  the  publication  of  that  paper.  On  Tuesday,  about  5  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  I  was  called  from  my  lodgings  and  informed  that  the  press  had  arrived  at  the 
wharf,  and  that  my  official  interference  was  desired.  I  immediately  repaired  to  the  wharf, 
and  remained  there  until  the  press  was  landed  and  stored  in  the  warehouse  of  Messrs.  God 
frey,  Gilman  &  Co.  There  were  no  indications  of  violence  or  resistance  on  the  part  of 
any  at  that  time.  The  arrival  of  the  "  abolition  press  "  (as  it  was  called)  was  generally 
known  in  the  early  part  of  that  day,  which  served  to  rekindle  the  excitement.  Represen 
tation  was  made  to  the  common  council  of  the  threatening  reports  which  were  in  circula 
tion.  The  common  council  did  not,  however,  deem  it  necessary  to  take  any  action  on  the 
subject.  Gentlemen  directly  interested  in  protecting  the  press  from  mob  violence,  deemed 
it  expedient  to  guard  the  warehouse  with  men  and  arms,  in  readiness  to  resist  violence, 
should  any  be  offered.  During  the  early  part  of  the  night  of  Tuesday,  it  was  reported 
through  the  city,  that  there  were  from  30  to  40  armed  men  on  guard  within  the  warehouse. 

At  10  o'clock  at  night,  20  or  30  persons  appeared  at  the  south  end  of  the  warehouse,  and 
gave  some  indications  of  an  attack.  Mr.  W.  S.  Gilman,  from  the  third  story  of  the  ware 
house,  addressed  those  without,  and  urged  them  to  desist,  and  at  the  same  time  informed 
them  that  the  persons  in  the  warehouse  were  prepared,  and  should  endeavor  to  protect  their 
property,  and  that  serious  consequences  might  ensue.  Those  without  demanded  the  press, 
end  said  they  would  not  be  satisfied  until  it  was  destroyed;  said  they  did  not  wish  to  in 
jure  any  person,  or  other  property,  but  insisted  on  having  the  press.  To  which  Mr.  G.  re- 
died  that  the  press  could  not  be  given  up.  The  persons  outside  then  repaired  to  the  north 
<,nd  of  the  building,  and  attacked  the  building  by  throwing  stones,  etc.,  and  continued  their 
violence  for  15  or  2')  minutes,  when  a  gun  was  fired  from  one  of  the  windows  of  the  ware 
house,  and  a  man  named  Lyman  Bishop  was  mortally  wounded.  He  was  carried  to  a  sur 
geon's  office,  and  then  the  mob  withdrew  and  dispersed  with  the  exception  of  a  small  num 
ber.  Upon  the  first  indication  of  disturbance,  I  called  on  the  civil  officers  most  conveni 
ent,  and  repaired  with  all  dispatch  to  the  scene  of  action.  By  this  time  the  firing  from 


ILLINOIS.  317 

the  warehouse,  and  the  consequent  death  of  one  of  their  number  (Bishop  died  soon  after 
lie  received  the  shot),  had  greatly  increased  the  excitement,  and  added  to  the  numbers  of 
the  mob.  Owing  to  the  late  hour  of  the  night,  but  few  citizens  were  present  at  the  onset, 
except  those  engaged  in  the  contest.  Consequently  the  civil  authorities  could  do  but  little 
toward  dispersing  the  mob  except  by  persuasion.  A  large  number  of  people  soon  collected 
around  me.  I  was  requested  to  go  to  the  warehouse,  and  state  to  those  within  that  those 
outside  had  resolved  to  destroy  the  press,  and  that  they  would  not  desist  until  they  had 
accomplished  their  object;  that  all  would  retire  until  I  should  return,  which  request  was 
made  by  acclamation,  and  all  soon  retired  to  wait  my  return. 

I  was  replied  to  by  those  within  the  warehouse  that  they  had  assembled  there  to  pro 
tect  their  property  against  lawless  violence,  and  that  they  were  determined  to  do  so.  The 
mob  began  again  to  assemble  with  increased  numbers,  and  with  guns  and  weapons  of  dif 
ferent  kinds.  I  addressed  the  multitude,  and  commanded  them  to  desist  and  disperse,  to 
which  they  listened  attentively  and  respectfully,  to  no  purpose — a  rush  was  now  made  to 
the  warehouse,  with  the  cry  of  "  fire  the  house,"  "  burn  them  out,"  etc.  The  firing  soon 
became  fearful  and  dangerous  between  the  contending  parties — so  much  so,  that  the  farther 
interposition  on  the  part  of  the  civil  authorities  and  citizens  was  believed  altogether  inad 
equate,  and  hazardous  in  the  extreme — no  means  were  at  my  control,  or  that  of  any  other 
officer  present,  by  which  the  mob  could  be  dispersed,  and  the  loss  of  life  and  the  shedding 
of  blood  prevented.  Scenes  of  the  most  daring  recklessness  and  infuriated  madness  fol 
lowed  in  quick  succession.  The  building  was  surrounded  and  the  inmates  threatened  with 
extermination  and  death  in  the  most  frightful  form  imaginable.  Every  means  of  escape 
by  flight  was  cut  oif.  The  scene  now  became  one  of  most  appalling  and  heart-rending  in 
terest!  Fifteen  or  twenty  citizens,  among  whom  were  some  of  our  most  worthy  and  en 
terprising,  were  apparently  doomed  to  an  unenviable  and  inevitable  death,  if  the  flames 
continued. 

About  the  time  the  fire  was  communicated  to  the  building,  Rev.  E.  P.  Lovejoy  (late 
editor  of  the  Observer),  received  four  balls  in  his  breast,  near  the  door  of  the  warehouse, 
and  fell  a  corpse  in  a  few  seconds;  two  others  from  the  warehouse  were  wounded.  Sev 
eral  persons  engaged  in  the  attack  were  severely  wounded;  the  wounds,  however,  are  not 
considered  dangerous.  The  contest  had  been  raging  for  an  hour  or  more,  when  the  per 
sons  in  the  warehouse,  by  some  means,  the  exact  manner  it  was  done  I  have  not  been  able 
to  ascertain,  intimated  that  they  would  abandon  the  house  and  the  press,  provided  that 
they  were  permitted  to  depart  unmolested.  The  doors  were  then  thrown  open,  and  those 
within  retreated  down  Front  street.  Several  guns  were  fired  upon  them  while  retreating, 
and  one  individual  had  a  narrow  escape — a  ball  passed  through  his  coat  near  his  shoulder. 

A  large  number  of  persons  now  rushed  into  the  warehouse,  threw  the  press  upon  the 
wharf,  where  it  was  broken  in  pieces  and  thrown  into  the  river.  The  fire  in  the  roof  of 
the  warehouse  was  extinguished  by  a  spectator,  who  deserves  great  praise  for  his  cour 
ageous  interference,  and  but  little  damage  was  done  by  it  to  the  building.  No  disposition 
seemed  to  be  manifested  to  destroy  any  other  property  in  the  warehouse.  Without  farther 
attempts  at  violence  the  mob  now  dispersed,  and  no  farther  open  indications  of  disorder  or 
violence  have  been  manifested. 

The  foregoing  is  stated  on  what  I  consider  undoubted  authority,  and  mostly  from  my 
own  personal  knowledge.  JOHN  M.  KRUM,  Mayor. 

CAIRO  is  a  small  town  at  the  south-western  extremity  of  Illinois,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Ohio  with  the  Mississippi  Rivers,  175  miles  below  St.  Louis. 
It  is  also  at  the  southern  termination  of  the  famous  Illinois  Central  Rail 
road,  454  miles  distant  by  the  main  line  of  this  road  to  Dunleith,  its  north 
western  termination  on  the  Mississippi,  and  365  miles  distant  from  Chicago 
by  the  Chicago  branch  of  the  same. 

Cairo,  from  a  very  early  day,  was  supposed,  from  its  natural  site  at  the 
junction  of  the  two  great  rivers  of  the  west,  to  be  a  point  where  an  immense 
city  would  eventually  arise,  hence  it  has  attracted  unusual  attention  from 
enterprising  capitalists  as  a  point  promising  rich  returns  for  investments  in 
its  soil.  As  soon  as  Illinois  was  erected  into  a  state,  in  1818,  the  legislature 
incorporated  "  the  Bank  of  Cairo,"  which  was  connected  with  the  project  of 
building  a  city  at  this  point.  Since  then  two  or  more  successive  companies 
have  been  formed  for  this  object;  one  of  which  has  now  the  enterprise  so 
far  advanced  that  they  entertain  sanguine  calculations  of  accomplishing  the 
end  so  long  sought  amid  great  discouragements. 


318 


ILLINOIS. 


A  primary  obstacle  to  the  success  of  the  scheme  is  in  the  natural  situation 
of  the  surface.  For  many  miles  in  every  direction  the  country  is  a  low,  rich 
bottom,  and  as  the  river  here,  in  seasons  of  high  water,  rises  fifty  feet,  the 
whole  region  becomes  covered  with  water.  To  remedy  this,  an  earthen 

dyke,  or  levee,  some  four 
miles  in  circuit,  has  been 
built  around  the  town,  at, 
it  is  said,  a  cost  of  nearly 
a  million  of  dollars.  This 
is  shown  by  the  map. 
From  this  levee  projects 
an  embankment  like  the 
handle  of  a  dipper — the 
levee  itself  around  the 
town  answering  for  the 
rim  —  on  which  is  laid 
the  line  of  the  Illinois 
Central  Railroad. 

The  annexed  view  shows 
at  one   glance,   parts  of 

three      states Illinois, 

Missouri  and  Kentucky. 
It  was  taken  on  top  of  the 
levee,  within  a  few  hun 
dred  feet  of  the  extreme 
south-western  point  of  Il 
linois,  which  is  seen  in  the 
distance.  The  temporary 
depot  of  the  Central  Railroad  and  the  St.  Charles'  Hotel  appear  in  front.  On 
the  right  is  shown  part  of  the  town  plat  (some  eight  feet  below  the  top  of  the 
levee),  the  bank  of  the 
levee  between  the  specta 
tor  and  the  Mississippi 
River,  before  its  junction 
with  the  Ohio,  and  the 
Missouri  shore.  On  the 
left  appears  the  Kentucky 
shore,  and  point  where  the 
Ohio,  "the  beautiful  river," 
pours  itself  into  the  bosom 
of  the  Mississippi,  "the 
great  father  of  waters,"  as 
he  stretches  himself  south 
ward  in  his  majestic  course 
to  the  ocean.  The  best 
buildings  in  Cairo  are  of 
brick,  mainly  stores,  and 
are  on  the  levee.  The  levee 
itself  resembles  an  ordina- 
ry  railroad  embankment,  Jtmction  of  the  Obio  and  Mis8lssippL 

and  is  about  50  feet  broad  on  the  surface.     The  town  plat  within  the  levee  is 
regularly  laid  out,  and  a  system  of  underground  drainage  adopted.    The  appear- 


MAP  OF  CAIRO  AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


LEVKE  AT  OAIBO. 


ILLINOIS. 


319 


ance  of  the  spot  is  like  that  of  any  ordinary  river  bottom  of  the  west — the 
surface  level,  with  here  and  there  left  a  forest  tree,  which,  shooting  upward 
its  tall,  slender  form,  shows,  by  its  luxuriant  foliage,  the  rich  nature  of  the 
soil.  The  houses  within  the  levee  are  mainly  of  wood,  one  and  two  stories 
in  hight,  and  painted  white.  They  are  somewhat  scattered,  and  the  general 
aspect  of  the  spot  is  like  that  of  a  newly  settled  western  village,  just  after 
the  log  cabin  era  has  vanished. 

Rockford,  the  capital  of  Winnebago  county,  is  beautifully  situated  at  the 
rapids  of  Rock  River,  on  the  Galena  and  Chicago  Union  Railroad,  92  miles 
westerly  from  Chicago.  Steamers  can  come  to  this  place.  Great  manufac 
turing  facilities  are  afforded  by  the  immense  water  power  here.  Population 
1860,  5,281. 

Galesburg  is  in  Knox  county,  168  miles  south-westerly  from  Chicago,  at 
the  junction  of  the  Chicago  and  Burlington,  Northern  Cross,  and  Peoria 
and  Oquawka  Railroads.  It  is  a  fine  town,  and  noted  as  a  place  of  educa 
tion;  Knox  College,  Knox  College  for  females,  and  Lombard  University  are 
situated  here.  Population  about  6,000. 

Freeport  is  on  a  branch  of  Rock  River,  at  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  Cen 
tral  with  the  Gralena  and  Chicago  Union  Railroad,  120  miles  from  Chicago. 
It  is  quite  a  manufacturing  place,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  grain  depots  in 
northern  Illinois.  Population  about  5,000. 


South-eastern  mew  of  Galena,  from  near  the  Swing  Bridge. 

The  Steamboat  landing  is  seen  in  the  central  part.  The  Railroad  Depot  and  the  Seminary  on  an  eleya- 
tion  in  the  distance,  appear  on  the  right.  The  Draw  or  Swing  Bridge  is  represented  open,  parts  of  which 
are  seen  on  the  right  and  left. 

G-ALENA,  a  flourishing  city,  and  capital  of  Joe  Daviess  county,  is  situated 
on  Fevre  River,  6  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi,  1651  above 
New  Orleans,  450  above  St.  Louis,  160  W.N.W.  from  Chicago,  and  250  N. 
by  W.  from  Springfield.  The  city  is  built  principally  on  the  western  side 
of  Fevre  or  Galena  River,  an  arm  of  the  Mississippi,  and  its  site  is  a  steep 
acclivity,  except  for  a  few  rods  along  the  river.  The  streets  rise  one  above 


320  ILLINOIS. 

another,  the  different  tiers  connecting  by  flights  of  steps.  The  town  is  well 
paved  and  the  houses  are  built  of  brick.  The  numerous  hills  overlooking 
the  city  are  thickly  studded  with  the  mansions  of  the  wealthy  merchant  or 
thrifty  miner.  Population  1860,  8,196. 

Galena  is  a  French  word,  signifying  " lead  mine"  Galena  was  formerly 
called  Fevre  River,  the  French  word  for  wild  bean,  which  grew  here  in  great 
abundance.  The  city  was  first  settled  in  1826,  and  was  then  an  outpost  in 
the  wilderness,  about  300  miles  from  the  settlements.  The  first  settlement 
was  begun  at  Old  Town.  Col.  John  Shaw,  from  the  interior  of  New  York, 
traversed  this  region  from  1809  to  1812,  extending  his  journeys  to  a  point 
westward  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers.  He  was  engaged  as  a  spy 
in  this  section  in  the  war  of  1812,  and  on  one  occasion  it  is  said  that  he  outrun 
three  Indians  in  a  chase  of  nine  miles.  When  he  first  came  to  Galena,  he 
found  the  Indians  smelting  lead  on  the  town  plat.  Col.  S.  was  the  first  one 
who  carried  lead  to  St.  Louis  for  a  regular  price ;  this  was  soon  after  the 
close  of  the  war  of  1812.  He  also,  it  is  said,  built  the  first  flouring  mill  in 
Wisconsin,  four  miles  above  Prairie  du  Cliien.  The  first  pine  lumber  sawed 
in  that  state  was  in  his  mill  on  Black  River. 

Andrew  C.  and  Moses  Swan,  of  Pennsylvania,  came  to  Galena  in  the  fall 
of  1827,  by  the  way  of  Green  Bay  and  Wisconsin  River:  one  of  them  kept 
the  first  regular  tavern.  It  stood  on  a  site  opposite  the  De  Soto  House. 
One  of  the  early  visitors  at  Galena  was  Ebenezer  Brigham,  who  journeyed 
from  Worcester,  Mass.,  to  St.  Louis  in  1818:  the  Upper  Mississippi  country 
was,  at  that  period  almost  unknown.  Beyond  the  narrative  of  PIKE'S  Ex 
pedition,  and  the  vague  report  of  hunters,  boatmen,  and  a  few  lead  diggers 
about  Dubuque,  the  public  possessed  but  little  reliable  information.  In 
1820,  Mr.  Brigham  followed  up  the  river  to  Galena.  This  place  then  con 
sisted  of  one  log  cabin,  and  a  second  one  commenced,  which  he  assisted  in 
ompleting.  The  first  church  erected  was  by  the  Presbyterians.  The 
Miner's  Journal"  was  started  here  in  1828,  by  Mr.  Jones,  who  died  of  the 
cholera  in  1832.  The  "  Galena  North-Western  Gazette,"  was  first  issued  in 
1833,  by  Mr.  H.  H.  Houghton,  from  Vermont.  It  was  printed  in  a  log 
house  at  the  old  town,  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  levee.  The 
first  brick  building  here  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  Capt.  D.  S.  Harris,  a 
native  of  New  York.  Capt.  H.  is  also  said  to  have  constructed  the  first 
steamboat  on  the  Upper  Mississippi.  It  was  built  in  1838,  and  called  the 
"Joe  Daviess,"  in  honor  of  Col.  Joe  Daviess,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Tip- 
pecanoe. 

Galena  is  on  the  meridian  of  Boston,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  most 
healthy  locations  in  the  United  States.  It  is  the  most  commodious  harbor 
for  steamboats  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  a  great  amount  of  tunnage 
is  owned  here.  Galena  owes  its  growth  and  importance  mainly  to  the 
rich  mines  of  lead,  with  which  it  is  surrounded  in  every  direction.  Con 
siderable  quantities  of  copper  are  found  in  connection  with  the  lead.  About 
40,000,000  Ibs.  of  lead,  valued  at  $1,600,000  have  been  shipped  from  this 
place  during  one  season.  It  is  estimated  that  the  lead  mines,  in  this  vicinity, 
are  capable  of  producing  150,000,000  Ibs.  annually,  for  ages  to  come.  Mine 
ral  from  some  8  or  10  places,  or  localities,  in  Wisconsin,  is  brought  to  Ga 
lena,  and  shipped  for  New  Orleans  and  other  markets.  Since  the  comple 
tion  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  a  small  portion  of  lead  has  been  sent 
eastward  by  that  road.  The  average  price  is  about  thirty  dollars  per  thous 
and  Ibs. 


ILLINOIS.  321 

Outside  of  the  town  is  the  forbidding  and  desolate  hill  country  of  the  lead 
region.  Storms  have  furrowed  the  hills  in  every  direction,  and  the'  shovels 

of  the  miners  have  dotted  the  whole 
surface  with  unsightly  pits,  walled 
around  with  heaps  of  limestone  and 
sand,  through  which  the  delver  has 
sought  the  lead.  There  is  no  culture 
around,  and  the  edifices  consist  of  the 
rude  cabin  of  the  miners,  and  primitive 
looking  smelting  furnaces  where  the 
lead  is  prepared  for  market.  A  late 
visitor  gives  the  following  description : 

Every  hill  is  spotted  with  little  mounds  of 
yellow  earth,  and  is  as  full  of  holes  as  a  worm- 
eaten  cheese.  Some  winding  road  at  length  brings 
you  to  the  top  of  one  of  these  bare,  bleak  hills, 
and  to  a  larger  mound  of  the  same  yellowish 

earth,  with  which  the  whole  country  in  sight  is 

THE  LEAD  REGION.  mottled.     On  top  of  this  mound  of  earth  stands 

a  windlass,  and  a  man  is  winding  up  tubs  full 
of  dirt  and  rock,  which  continually  increase  the  pile  under  his  feet.  Beneath  him,  forty, 
fifty,  a  hundred  feet  under  ground,  is  the  miner.  As  we  look  around  on  every  ridge,  see 
the  windlass  men,  and  know  that  beneath  each  one  a  smutty-faced  miner  is  burrowing  by 
the  light  of  a  dim  candle,  let  us  descend  into  the  mines  and  see  the  miners  at  their  work. 
The  windlass-man  makes  a  loop  in  the  end  of  the  rope,  into  which  you  put  one  foot,  and, 
clasping,  at  the  same  time,  the  rope  with  one  hand,  slowly  you  begin  to  go  down ;  down, 
it  grows  darker  and  darker  ;  a  damp,  grave-like  smell  comes  up  from  below,  and  you  grow 
dizzy  with  the  continual  whirling  around,  until,  when  you  reach  the  bottom  and  look  up 
at  the  one  small  spot  of  daylight  through  which  you  came  down,  you  start  with  alarm,  as 
the  great  mass  of  rocks  and  earth  over  your  head  seem  to  be  swaying  and  tumbling  in. 
You  draw  your  breath  a  little  more  freely,  however,  when  you  perceive  that  it  was  only 
your  own  dizziness,  or  the  scudding  of  clouds  across  the  one  spot  of  visible  sky,  and  you 
take  courage  to  look  about  you.  Two  or  three  dark  little  passages,  from  four  to  six  feet 
high,  and  about  three  feet  wide,  lead  off  into  the  murky  recesses  of  the  mine  ;  these  are 
called,  in  mining  parlance,  drifts.  You  listen  a  little  while,  and  there  is  a  dull  "thud! 
thud!  "  conies  from  each  one,  and  tells  of  something  alive  away  off  in  the  gloom>  and, 
candle  in  hand,  you  start  in  search  of  it.  You  eye  the  rocky  walls  and  roof  uneasily  as, 
half  bent,  you  thread  the  narrow  passage,  until,  on  turning  some  angle  in  the  drift,  you 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  miner,  he  looks  small  and  dark,  and  mole-like,  as  on  his  knees,  and 
pick  in  hand,  he  is  prying  from  a  perpendicular  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  lump  of  mineral  as 
large  as  his  head,  and  which,  by  the  light  of  his  dim  candle,  flashes  and  gleams  like  a 
huge  carbuncle  ;  or,  perhaps,  it  is  a  horizontal  sheet  or  vein  of  mineral,  that  presents  its 
edge  to  the  miner ;  it  is  imbedded  in  the  solid  rock,  which  must  be  picked  and  blasted 
down  to  get  at  the  mineral.  He  strikes  the  rock  with  his  pick,  and  it  rings  as  though  he 
had  struck  an  anvil.  You  can  conceive  how,  with  that  strip  of  gleaming  metal,  seeming 
like  a  magician's  wand,  to  beckon  him  on  and  on,  he  could  gnaw,  as  it  were,  his  narrow 
way  for  hundreds  of  feet  through  the  rock.  But  large,  indeed,  you  think,  must  be  his  or 
gan  of  hope,  and  resolute  his  perseverance,  to  do  it  with  no  such  glittering  prize  in  sight. 
Yet  such  is  often  the  case,  and  many  a  miner  has  toiled  for  years,  and  in  the  whole  time 
has  discovered  scarcely  enough  mineral  to  pay  for  the  powder  used.  Hope,  however,  in 
the  breast  of  the  miner,  has  as  many  lives  as  a  cat,  and  on  no  day,  in  all  his  toilsome 
years,  could  you  go  down  into  his  dark  and  crooked  hole,  a  hundred  feet  from  grass  and 
sunshine,  but  he  would  tell  you  that  he  was  "close  to  it  now,"  in  a  few  days  he  hoped  to 
strike  a  lode  (pronounced  among  miners  as  though  it  was  spelled  leed),  and  so  a  little 
longer  and  a  little  longer,  and  his  life  of  toil  wears  away  while  his  work  holds  him  with  a 
fascination  equaled  only  by  a  gamblers'  passion  for  his  cards. 

Lodes  or  veins  of  mineral  in  the  same  vicinity  run  in  the  general  direction.  Those  in 
the  vicinity  of  Galena,  run  east  and  west.  The  crevice  which  contains  the  mineral,  is 
usually  perpendicular,  and  from  1  to  20  feet  in  width,  extending  from  the  cap  rock,  or  the 
first  solid  rock  above  the  mineral,  to  uncertain  depths  below,  and  is  filled  with  large, 
loose  rocks,  and  a  peculiar  red  dirt,  in  which  are  imbedded  masses  of  mineral.  These 
masses  are  made  up  cubes  like  those  formed  of  crystallization,  and  many  of  them  as  geo- 

21 


322 


ILLINOIS. 


metrically  correct  as  could  be  made  with  a  compass  and  square.  Before  the  mineral  is 
broken,  it  is  of  the  dull  blue  color  of  lead,  but  when  broken,  glistens  like  silver.  Some 
times  caves  are  broken  into,  whose  roofs  are  frosted  over  with  calcareous  spar,  as  pure  and 
white  as  the  frost  upon  the  window  pane  in  winter,  and  from  dark  crevices  in  the  floor 
comes  up  the  gurgling  of  streams  that  never  saw  the  sun.  The  life  of  a  miner  is  a  dark 
and  lonesome  one.  His  drift  is  narrow,  and  will  not  admit  of  two  abreast ;  therefore, 
there  is  but  little  conversation,  and  no  jokes  are  bandied  about  from  mouth  to  mouth,  by 
fellow-laborers.  The  alternations  of  hope  and  disappointment  give,  in  the  course  of  years, 
a  subdued  expression  to  his  countenance. 

There  are  no  certain  indications  by  which  the  miner  can  determine  the  existence  of  a 
vein  of  mineral  without  sinking  a  shaft.  Several  methods  are  resorted  to,  however.  The 
linear  arrangement  of  any  number  of  trees  that  are  a  little  larger  than  the  generality  of 
their  neighbors,  is  considered  an  indication  of  an  opening  underground  corresponding  to 
their  arrangement.  Depressions  in  the  general  surface  are  also  favorable  signs,  and 
among  the  older  miners  there  are  yet  some  believers  in  the  mystic  power  of  witch-hazel 
and  the  divining  rod.  In  the  largest  number  of  cases,  however,  but  little  attention  is 
paid  to  signs  other  than  to  have  continuous  ground — that  is,  to  dig  on  the  skirts  of  a  ridge 
that  is  of  good  width  on  top,  so  that  any  vein  that  might  be  discovered  would  not  run  out 
too  quickly  on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge.  On  such  ground  the  usual  method  of  search  is 
by  suckering,  as  it  is  called.  The  miner  digs  a  dozen  or  more  holes,  about  six  feet  deep, 
and  within  a  stone's  throw  of  each  other,  and  in  some  one  of  these  he  is  likely  to  find  a 
few  pieces  of  mineral,  the  dip  of  certain  strata  of  clay  then  indicates  the  direction  in  which 
he  is  to  continue  the  search,  in  which,  if  he  is  so  successful  as  to  strike  a  lode,  his  fortune 
is  made ;  in  the  other  event,  he  is  only  the  more  certain  that  the  lucky  day  is  not 
for  off. 


North-western  view  of  Rock  Island  City. 

The  view  showg  the  appearance  of  the  city  as  seen  from  Davenport,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Missis 
sippi.    The  ferry  landing  appears  on  the  left,  the  Court  House  and  Presbyterian  Churches  on  the  right. 

ROCK  ISLAND  CITY,  and  county  scat  of  Rock  Island  Co.,  is  situated  on 
the  Mississippi  River,  opposite  the  city  of  Davenport,  2  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  Rock  River,  178  W.  by  S.,  from  Chicago,  and  131  N.  N.  W.  of 
Springfield.  It  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Upper  Rapids  of  the  Mississippi,  which 
extend  nearly  15  miles,  and  in  low  stages  of  water  obstruct  the  passage  of 
loaded  vessels.  It  is  a  flourishing  manufacturing  place,  at  the  western  ter 
minus  of  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Railroad.  Pop.  1860,  5,130. 

It  derives  its  name  from  an  island  three  miles  in  length,  the  southern  ex 
tremity  of  which  is  nearly  opposite  the  town.  The  principal  channel  of  the 
river  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  island,  while  that  on  its  eastern  side  has  been 
so  dammed  as  to  produce  a  vast  water  power  above  and  a  good  harbor  below. 
The  island  forms  one  of  the  capacious  buttresses  of  the  immense  railroad 


ILLINOIS. 


323 


bridge  across  the  Mississippi,  connecting  the  place  with  Davenport,  and  creates 
a  junction  between  the  railroad  from  Chicago  and  the  Mississippi,  and  the  Mis 
souri  Railroad  through  Iowa. 

Fort  Armstrong,  on  Rock  Island,  was  erected  in  1816,  by  Lieut.  Col. 
Lawrence,  of  the  United  States  Army.     It  was  then  in  the  heart  of  the  In 
dian  country,  and  was  the  scene 
of  many  wild  exploits,  both  be 
fore  and  during  the  continuance 
of  the  «  Black  Hawk  War."    The 
old  chief,  Black  Hawk,  was  born 
in   1768,  on  Rock  River,  about 
three  miles  from  where  the  fort 
now  stands.     From  the  time  this 
fortification  was  first  constructed, 
until  the  close  of  the  war  above 
mentioned,  this  fort  was  used  as 
a  depot  of  supplies,  etc.,  and  for 
a  long  time  was  commanded  by 
Col.  Z.  Taylor,  afterward  presi 
dent  of  the  United  States. 
Col.  William  Lawrence,  the  founder  of  the  fort,  arrived  here  May  10,  1816, 
with  the  8th  regiment  and  a  company  of  riflemen.     As  soon  as  they  had 
completed  their  encampment,  he  employed  the  soldiers  to  cut  logs  and  build 
storehouses  for  the  provisions,  and  had  a  bake  house  and  oven  put  up.     This 
was  the  first  regular  building  erected  at  this  point. 

"  The  soldiers  now  set  to  work  to  build  the  fort,  which  was  named  Fort  Arm 
strong.  At  this  time  there  lived  a  large  body  of  Indians  in  the  vicinity,  number 
ing  some  10,000,  divided  in  three  villages,  one  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  near 
the  foot  of  the  island  called  '  Waupello  Village;'  about  three  miles  south  on  the 
bank  of  Rock  River,  stood  the  famous  village  of 'Black  Hawk,'  and  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river  was  a  small  village  named  after  an  old  brave,  'Oshkosh.'  Upon 
the  first  arrival  of  the  troops  on  the  Island,  the  Indians  were  very  much  dissatis 
fied,  but  the  officers  took  great  pains  to  gain  their  friendship,  by  making  them 
many  presents,  and  they  soon  became  reconciled  and  were  most  excellent  neigh 
bors.  During  the  first  summer  they  would  frequently  bring  over  supplies  of  sweet 
corn,  beans,  pumpkins,  and  such  other  vegetables  as  they  raised,  and  present 
them  to  Mr.  Davenport  and  the  officers,  with  the  remarks  that  they  had  raised  none, 
and  that  they  themselves  had  plenty,  invariably  refusing  to  take  any  pay." 


FORT  ARMSTRONG,  ROCK  ISLAND. 


The  following  account  of  the  defeat  of  Maj.  Zachary  Taylor,  at  Rock  Is 
land,  in  August  1814,  is  from  the  personal  narrative  of  Mr.  J.  Shaw,  of  Wis 
consin  : 

About  two  months  after  the  capture  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  Maj.  Zachary  Taylor 
came  up  the  Mississippi,  with  22  fortified  boats,  each  containing  an  average  of 
about  80  men,  under  his  command.  When  the  expedition  arrived  near  Rock  Is 
land,  it  was  discovered  that  about  4,000  Indians  had  there  collected.  The  British 
had  erected  a  false,  painted  battery,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  apparently 
mounted  with  six  twelve-pounders ;  but  in  reality  they  had  but  two  guns  with 
them,  one  of  which  was  entrusted  to  the  care  of  the  Indians.  Mr.  Shaw  was  on 
board  the  boat  with  Mr.  Taylor.  The  battle  commenced,  and  the  first  ball  from 
the  British  guns  passed  completely  through  the  advance  boat,  on  which  was  Tay 
lor,  and  he  instantly  ordered  it  to  be  put  about;  the  second  ball  cut  off  the 
steering  oar  of  the  next  boat  that  was  advancing,  and  a  strong  wind  springing 
up  at  that  moment,  this  boat  drifted  over  the  river  to  the  western  bank,  a  short 
distance  below  the  present  town  of  Davenport ;  the  men  having  no  oar  to  steer 


324  ILLINOIS. 

with,  could  not  prevent  this  occurrence.  About  1,000  Indiana  immediately  took 
to  their  canoes,  and  paddled  over  the  river,  expecting,  no  doubt,  to  get  the  boat  as 
a  prize,  as  she  must  inevitably  drift  into  shallow  water.  The  Indians  kept  up  a 
constant  fire  on  the  unfortunate  boat,  and  a  number  of  Indians,  mounted  on  horse 
back,  came  galloping  down  the  western  shore,  with  their  guns  elevated  in  their 
right  hands,  gleaming  in  the  sun,  and  shouting  their  war-cries  in  the  most  hideous 
manner.  On  the  first  fire  from  the  British  guns,  and  immediately  after  the  pas 
sage  of  the  ball  through  the  foremost  boat,  Maj.  Taylor  had  ordered  a  retreat. 
Gen.  Samuel  Whiteside,  who  had  command  of  one  of  the  boats,  impelled  with  the 
natural  desire  of  assisting  the  disabled  boat,  that  was  drifting  across  the  river,  in 
to  the  power  of  merciless  enemies,  disobeyed  the  order,  and  steered  toward  the 
disabled  craft.  When  he  approached  it,  he  called  for  "some  brave  man  to  cast  a 
cable  from  his  own  boat  on  board  of  her."  An  individual,  named  Paul  Harpole, 
jumped  from  the  disabled  boat,  in  a  most  exposed  situation,  caught  the  cable,  and 
made  it  fast  to  the  boat.  In  less  than  a  minute's  time,  a  thousand  Indians  would 
have  been  aboard  of  her ;  she  was  then  in  two  and  a  half  feet  water,  among  small 
willows,  which  in  some  measure  protected  the  Indians.  In  the  mean  while,  Har 
pole  called  for  guns  to  be  handed  him  from  below ;  stood  on  the  deck  of  the  boat 
completely  exposed;  fired  no  less  than  14  guns,  when  he  was  eventually  struck  in 
the  forehead  by  a  ball;  he  pitched  forward  toward  the  Indians,  and  the  instant  he 
struck  the  water,  the  savages  had  hold  of  him,  hauled  him  on  shore,  and  cut  him 
with  their  knives  into  a  hundred  pieces.  All  this  was  witnessed  by  the  other 
boats,  and  the  crippled  boat  having  been  towed  off  into  deep  water,  the  whole  body 
retreated,  and  descended  the  Mississippi. 

Fort  Armstrong  was  finally  evacuated  by  the  United  States  troops,  May 
4,  1836.  Col.  Davenport  had  a  fine  situation  near  the  fort,  about  half  a 
mile  distant.  At  first  he  supplied  the  fort  with  provisions,  and  was  after 
ward  extensively  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade.  He  was  murdered,  at  the 
age  of  62,  while  alone  in  his  house,  on  the  island,  on  July  4,  1845,  by  a 
baud  of  robbers.  The  following  account  is  from  "Wilkies'  Hist,  of  Daven 
port,  Past  and  Present : " 

On  last  Friday  afternoon  we  were  witness  to  a  strange  and  interesting  ceremony 
performed  by  the  Indians,  over  the  remains  of  Mr.  Davenport,  who  was  murdered 
at  his  residence  on  Kock  Island,  on  the  4th  inst.  Upon  preceding  to  the  beautiful 
spot  selected  as  his  last  resting  place,  in  the  rear  of  his  mansion  on  Kock  Island, 
we  found  the  war  chief  and  braves  of  the  band  of  Fox  Indians,  then  encamped  in 
the  vicinity  of  this  place,  reclining  on  the  grass  around  his  grave,  at  the  head  of 
which  was  planted  a  white  cedar  post,  some  seven  or  eight  feet  in  hight. 

The  ceremony  began  by  two  of  the  braves  rising  and  walking  to  the  post,  upon 
which,  with  paint,  they  began  to  inscribe  certain  characters,  while  a  third  brave, 
armed  with  an  emblematic  war  club,  after  drinking  to  the  health  of  the  deceased, 
from  a  cup  placed  at  the  base  of  the  post,  walked  three  times  around  the  grave,  in 
an  opposite  direction  to  the  course  of  the  sun,  at  each  revolution  delivering  a 
speech  with  sundry  gestures  and  emphatic  motions  in  the  direction  of  the  north 
east.  When  he  had  ceased,  he  passed  the  club  to  another  brave,  who  went  through 
the  same  ceremony,  passing  but  once  around  the  grave,  and  so  in  succession  with 
each  one  of  the  braves.  This  ceremony,  doubtless,  would  appear  pantomimic  to 
one  unacquainted  with  the  habits  or  language  of  the  Indians,  but  after  a  full  in 
terpretation  of  their  proceedings,  they  would  be  found  in  character  with  this  tra 
ditionary  people. 

In  walking  around  the  grave  in  a  contrary  direction  to  the  course  of  the  sun, 
they  wished  to  convey  the  idea  that  the  ceremony  was  an  original  one.  In  their 
speeches  they  informed  the  Great  Spirit  that  Mr.  Davenport  was  their  friend,  and 
they  wished  the  Great  Spirit  to  open  the  door  to  him,  and  to  take  charge  of  him. 
The  enemies  whom  they  had  slain,  they  called  upon  to  act  in  capacity  of  waiters 
to  Mr.  Davenport,  in  the  spirit  land — they  believing  that  they  have  unlimited  power 
over  the  spirits  of  those  whom  they  have  slain  in  battle.  Their  gestures  toward 
the  north-east,  were  made  in  allusion  to  their  great  enemies,  the  Sioux,  who  live 


ILLINOIS.  325 

in  that  direction.  They  recounted  their  deeds  of  battle,  with  the  number  that 
they  had  slain  and  taken  prisoners.  Upon  the  post  were  painted,  in  hieroglyphics, 
the  number  of  the  enemy  that  they  had  slain,  those  taken  prisoners,  together  with 
the  tribe  and  station  of  the  brave.  For  instance,  the  feats  of  Wau-co-shaw-she,  the 
chief,  were  thus  portrayed:  Ten  headless  figures  were  painted,  which  signified 
that  he  had  killed  ten  men.  Four  others  were  then  addeed,  one  of  them  smaller 
than  the  others,  signifying  that  he  had  taken  four  prisoners,  one  of  whom  was  a 
child.  A  line  was  then  run  from  one  figure  to  another,  terminating  in  a  plume, 
signifying  that  all  had  been  accomplished  by  a  chief.  A  fox  was  then  painted 
over  the  plume,  which  plainly  told  that  the  chief  was  of  the  Fox  tribe  of  Indians. 
These  characters  are  so  expressive,  that  if  an  Indian  of  any  tribe  whatsover  were 
to  see  them,  he  would  at  once  understand  them. 

Following  the  sign  of  Pau-tau-co-to,  who  thus  proved  himself  a  warrior  of  high 
degree,  were  placed  20  headless  figures,  being  the  number  of  Sioux  that  he  had 
slain. 

The  ceremony  of  painting  the  post  was  followed  by  a  feast,  prepared  for  the  oc 
casion,  which  by  them  was  certainly  deemed  the  most  agreeable  part  of  the  pro 
ceedings.  Meats,  vegetables,  and  pies,  were  served  up  in  such  profusion  that 
many  armsful  of  the  fragments  were  carried  off—  it  being  a  part  of  the  ceremony, 
which  is  religiously  observed,  that  all  the  victuals  left  upon  such  an  occasion  are 
to  be  taken  to  their  homes.  At  a  dog  feast,  which  is  frequently  given  by  them 
selves,  and  to  which  white  men  are  occasionally  invited,  the  guest  is  either  obliged 
to  eat  all  that  is  placed  before  him,  or  hire  some  other  person  to  do  so,  else  it  is 
considered  a  great  breach  of  hospitality. 


Distant  view  of  Nauvoo. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  Nauvoo,  as  it  is  approached  when  sailing  up  the  Mississippi. 

NAUVOO,  Hancock  county,  is  103  miles  N.  W.  by  W.  from  Springfield; 
52  above  Quincy,  and  220  above  St.  Louis.  It  is  laid  out  on  an  extensive 
plan,  on  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sites  on  the  river  for  a  city.  In  conse 
quence  of  a  graceful  curve  of  the  Mississippi,  it  bounds  the  town  on  the 
north-west,  west,  and  south-west.  The  ground  rises  gradually  from  the 
water  to  a  considerable  hight,  presenting  a  smooth  and  regular  surface,  with 
a  broad  plain  at  the  summit.  The  place  has  now  about  1,500  inhabitants, 
the  majority  of  whom  are  Germans;  there  are,  also,  French  and  American 
settlers.  The  inhabitants  have  fine  gardens,  wine  is  manufactured,  and  many 
cattle  are  raised. 

Nauvoo,  originally  the  village  of  Commerce,  is  noted  as  the  site  of  the  Mor 
mon  city,  founded  by  Joseph  Smith,  in  1840.  The  population,  at  one  time, 
when  under  the  Mormon  rule,  was  estimated  at  about  18,000.  The  dwell 
ings  were  mostly  log  cabins,  or  small  frame  houses.  The  great  Mormon 
Temple — the  remains  of  which  are  still,  by  far,  the  most  conspicuous  object 
in  the  place — was  128  feet  long.  88  feet  wide,  and  65  feet  high  to  the  cor- 


326  ILLINOIS. 

nice,  and  163  feet  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  would  accommodate  an  as 
semblage  of  3,000  persons.  It  was  built  of  polished  limestone  resembling 
marble,  and  obtained  on  the  spot.  The  architecture,  in  its  main  features, 
resembled  the  Doric.  In  the  basement  of  the  temple  was  a  large  stone  basin 
or  baptistry,  supported  by  12  oxen  of  a  colossal  size;  it  was  about  15  feet 
high,  altogether  of  white  stone  and  well  carved.  This  building,  at  that  time, 
without  an  equal  at  the  west,  was  fired  October  9,  1848,  and  for  the  most 
part  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins. 

It  is  believed  that  Capt.  White  erected  the  first  building  in  the  place,  a 
log  cabin  near  the  river,  about  a  mile  westward  of  where  the  temple  after 
ward  stood.  Mr.  Gallard  brought  out  Capt.  White ;  he  lived  in  a  two  story 
house  near  the  log  cabin.  Smith,  the  Mormon,  when  he  first  came  to  Nauvoo, 
put  up  with  Mr.  G. :  he  purchased  about  a  mile  square  of  territory.  He 
built  the  Mansion  House  near  the  river.  Smith's  widow,  who  is  described 
as  amiable  and  intelligent,  married  Maj.  Bideman.  The  Mormon  Church 
property  was  sold  to  a  company  of  French  socialists,  about  600  in  number, 
under  M.  Cabot,  for  about  $20,000.  It  appears  that  many  of  the  French 
are  leaving  the  place,  finding  that  they  can  do  better  elsewhere,  individually, 
than  by  living  in  common  with  others. 

After  the  Mormons  had  been  driven  from  Missouri,  the  people  of  Illinois 
received  them  with  great  kindness.  When  they  had  established  themselves 
at  Nauvoo,  the  legislature  granted  them  extraordinary  powers,  and  the  city 
laws,  in  some  respects,  became  superior  to  those  of  the  state.  Under  these 
laws,  difficulties  ensued.  Smith  acted  as  mayor,  general  of  the  Nauvoo  Le 
gion,  keeper  of  the  Nauvoo  Hotel,  and  as  their  religious  prophet,  whose  will 
was  law.  Smith,  and  some  others,  forcibly  opposed  the  process  issued  against 
them  for  a  riot.  The  people  were  aroused  at  their  resistance,  and  deter 
mined  that  the  warrants  should  be  executed.  In  June  1844,  some  3,000 
militia  from  the  adjacent  country,  and  bands  from  Missouri  and  Iowa,  as 
sembled  in  the  vicinity  of  Nauvoo.  Gov.  Ford  hastened  to  the  spot  to  pre 
vent  blood-shed.  On  the  24th,  Gen.  Joseph  Smith,  the  prophet,  and  his 
brother,  Gen.  Hyrum  Smith,  having  received  assurances  of  protection  from 
the  governor,  surrendered,  and  went  peaceably  to  prison,  at  Carthage,  to 
await  their  trial  for  treason.  On  the  evening  of  the  27th,  the  guard  of  the 
jail  were  surprised  by  a  mob  of  some  200  men  disguised,  who  overpowered 
them,  broke  down  the  door,  rushed  into  the  room  of  the  prisoners,  fired  at 
random,  severely  wounding  Taylor,  editor  of  the  Nauvoo  Neighbor.  They 
finished  by  killing  the  two  Smiths,  after  which  they  returned  to  their 
homes. 

In  Sept.  1845,  the  old  settlers  of  Hancock  county,  exasperated  by  the 
lawless  conduct  of  the  Mormons,  determined  to  drive  them  from  the  state, 
and  commenced  by  burning  their  farm  houses,  scattered  through  the  county. 
The  result  was,  that  they  were  compelled  to  agree  to  emigrate  beyond  the 
settled  parts  of  the  United  States.  On  the  16th  of  September,  1846,  the 
Anti-Mormons  took  possession  of  Nauvoo.  Whatever  doubts  might  have 
then  existed  abroad,  as  to  the  justice  of  the  course  pursued  by  them,  it  is  now 
evident  by  the  subsequent  history  of  the  Mormons,  that  they  are,  as  a  people, 
governed  by  doctrines  which  render  them  too  infamous  to  dwell  in  the  heart 
of  civilized  communities. 


Eev.  Peter  Cartwright,  the  celebrated  pioneer  Methodist  itinerant  of  Illi- 


ILLINOIS. 


327 


nois,  gives  this  amusing  account  of  an  interview  he  had  with  Joe  Smith,  the 
father  of  Mormonism: 

At  an  early  day  after  they  were  driven  from  Missouri  and  took' up  their  residence 
in  Illinois,  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  become  acquainted  with  Joe  Smith,  personally,  and 
with  many  of  their  leading  men  and  professed  followers.  On  a  certain  occasion  I 
fell  in  with  Joe  Smith,  and  was  formally  and  officially  introduced  to  him  in  Spring 
field,  then  our  county  town.  We  soon  fell  into  a  free  conversation  on  the  subject 
of  religion,  and  Mormonism  in  particular.  I  found  him  to  be  a  very  illiterate  and 
impudent  desperado  in  morals,  but,  at  the  same  time,  he  had  a  vast  fund  of  low 
cunning. 

In  the  first  place,  he  made  his  onset  on  me  by  flattery,  and  he  laid  on  the  soft 
sodder  thick  and  fast.  He  expressed  great  and  almost  unbounded  pleasure  in  the 
high  privilege  of  becoming  acquainted  with  me,  one  of  whom  he  had  heard  so 
many  great  and  good  things,  and  he  had  no  doubt  I  was  one  among  God's  noblest 
creatures,  an  honest  man.  He  believed  that  among  all  the  churches  in  the  world, 
the  Methodist  was  nearest  right,  and  that,  as  far  as  they  went,  they  were  right 
But  they  had  stopped  short  by  not  claiming  the  gift  of  tongues,  of  prophecy,  and 
of  miracles,  and  then  quoted  a  batch  of  scripture  to  prove  his  positions  correct. 
Dpon  the  whole,  he  did  pretty  well  for  clumsy  Joe.  I  gave  him  rope,  as  the  sail 
ors  say,  and,  indeed,  I  seemed  to  lay  this  flattering  unction  pleasurably  to  my 
Boul. 

"  Indeed,"  said  Joe,  "  if  the  Methodists  would  only  advance  a  step  or  two  further, 
they  would  take  the  world.  We  Latter-day  Saints  are  Methodists,  as  far  as  they 
have  gone,  only  we  have  advanced  further,  and  if  you  would  come  in  and  go  with 
us,  we  could  sweep  not  only  the  Methodist  Church,  but  all  others,  and  you  would 
be  looked  up  to  as  one  of  the  Lord's  greatest  prophets.  You  would  be  honored 
by  countless  thousands,  and  have,  of  the  good  things  of  this  world,  all  that  heart 
could  wish." 

I  then  began  to  inquire  into  some  of  the  tenets  of  the  Latter-day  Saints.  He 
explained.  I  criticized  his  explanations,  till,  unfortunately,  we  got  into  high  de 
bate,  and  he  cunningly  concluded  that  his  first  bait  would  not  take,  for  he  plainly 
saw  1  was  not  to  be  nattered  out  of  common  sense  and  honesty.  The  next  pass  he 
made  at  me  was  to  move  upon  my  fears.  He  said  that  in  all  ages  of  the  world, 
the  good  and  right  way  was  evil  spoken  of,  and  that  it  was  an  awful  thing  to  fight 
against  God. 

"Now,"  said  he,  "  if  you  will  go  with  me  to  Nauvoo,  I  will  show  you  many  living 
witnesses  that  will  testify  that  they  were,  by  the  Saints,  cured  of  blindness,  lame- 
_ness,  deafness,  dumbness,  and  all  the  diseases  that  human  flesh  is  heir  to;  and  I 
will  show  you,"  said  he,  "that  we  have  the  gift  of  tongues,  and  can  speak  in  un 
known  languages,  and  that  the  Saints  can  drink  any  deadly  poison,  and  it  will  not 
hurt  them;  "  and  closed  bv  saying,  "the  idle  stories  you  hear  about  us  are  noth 
ing  but  sheer  persecution.' 

I  then  gave  him  the  following  history  of  an  encounter  I  had  at  a  camp-meeting 
in  Morgan  county,  some  time  before,  with  some  of  his  Mormons,  and  assured  him 
I  could  prove  all  I  said  by  thousands  that  were  present. 

The  camp-meeting  was  numerously  attended,  and  we  had  a  good  and  gracious 
work  of  religion  going  on  among  the  people.  On  Saturday  there  came  some 
20  or  30  Mormons  to  the  meeting.  During  the  intermission  after  the  eleven 
o'clock  sermon,  they  collected  in  one  corner  of  the  encampment,  and  began  to 
sing,  they  sang  well.  As  fast  as  the  people  rose  from  their  dinners  they  drew  up 
to  hear  the  singing,  and  the  scattering  crowd  drew  until  a  large  company  sur 
rounded  them.  I  was  busy  regulating  matters  connected  with  the  meeting.  At 
length,  according,  I  have  no  doubt,  to  a  preconcerted  plan,  an  old  lady  Mormon 
began  to  shout,  and  after  snouting  a  while  she  swooned  away  and  fell  into  the 
arms  of  her  husband.  The  old  man  proclaimed  that  his  wife  had  gone  into  a 
trance,  and  that  when  she  came  to  she  would  speak  in  an  unknown  tongue,  and 
that  he  would  interpret.  This  proclamation  produced  considerable  excitement, 
and  the  multitude  crowded  thick  around.  Presently  the  old  lady  arose  and  be 
gan  to  speak  in  an  unknown  tongue,  sure  enough. 


- 


ILLINOIS. 


Just  then  my  attention  was  called  to  the  matter.  I  saw  in  one  moment  that 
the  whole  maneuver  was  intended  to  bring  the  Mormons  into  notice,  and  break  up 
the  good  of  our  meeting.  I  advanced,  instantly,  toward  the  crowd,  and  asked  the 
people  to  give  way  aad  let  me  in  to  this  old  lady,  who  was  then  being  held  in  the 
arms  of  her  husband.  I  came  right  up  to  them,  and  took  hold  of  her  arm,  and  or 
dered  her  peremptorily  to  hush  that  gibberish ;  that  I  would  have  no  more  of  it ;  that 
it  was  presumptuous,  and  blasphemous  nonsense.  I  stopped  very  suddenly  her 
unknown  tongue.  She  opened  her  eyes,  took  me  by  the  hand,  and  said : 

"My  dear  friend,  I  have  a  message  directly  from  God  to  you."  I  stopped  her 
short,  and  said,  "  I  will  have  none  of  your  messages.  If  God  can  speak  through 
no  better  medium  than  an  old,  hypocritical,  lying  woman,  I  will  hear  nothing  of 
it."  Her  husband,  who  was  to  be  the  interpreter  of  her  message,  flew  into  a  mighty 
rage,  and  said,  u  Sir,  this  is  my  wife,  and  I  will  defend  her  at  the  risk  of  my  life.  ' 
I  replied,  "  Sir,  this  is  my  camp-meeting,  and  I  will  maintain  the  good  order  of  it 
at  the  risk  of  my  life.  If  this  is  your  wife,  take  her  off  from  here,  and  clear  your 
selves  in  five  minutes,  or  I  will  have  you  under  guard." 

The  old  lady  slipped  out  and  was  off  quickly.  The  old  man  stayed  a  little,  and 
began  to  pour  a  tirade  of  abuse  on  me.  I  stopped  him  short,  and  said,  "  Not  an 
other  word  of  abuse  from  you,  sir.  I  have  no  doubt  you  are  an  old  thief,  and  if 
your  back  was  examined,  no  doubt  you  carry  the  marks  of  the  cowhide  for  your 
villainy."  And  sure  enough,  as  if  I  had  spoken  by  inspiration,  he,  in  some  of  the 
old  states,  had  been  lashed  to  the  whipping-post  for  stealing,  and  I  tell  you,  the  old 
man  began  to  think  other  persons  had  visions  besides  his  wife,  but  he  was  very 
clear  from  wishing  to  interpret  my  unknown  tongue.  To  cap  the  climax,  a  young 
gentleman  stepped  up  and  said  he  had  no  doubt  all  I  said  of  this  old  man  was  true, 
and  much  more,  for  he  had  caught  him  stealing  corn  out  of  his  father's  crib.  By 
this  time,  such  was  the  old  man's  excitement,  that  the  great  drops  of  sweat  ran 
down  his  face,  and  he  called  out, 

"Don't  crowd  me,  gentlemen,  it  is  mighty  warm." 

Said  I,  "  Open  the  way,  gentlemen,  and  let  him  out."  When  the  way  was 
opened,  I  cried,  "  Now  start,  and  don't  show  your  face  here  again,  nor  one  of  the 
Mormons.  If  you  do,  you  will  get  Lynch' s  law."  They  all  disappeared,  and  our 
meeting  went  on  prosperously,  a  great  many  were  converted  to  God,  and  the  church 
was  much  revived  and  built  up  in  her  holy  faith. 

My  friend,  Joe  Smith,  became  very  restive  before  I  got  through  with  my  narra 
tive  ;  and  when  I  closed,  his  wrath  boiled  over,  and  he  cursed  me  in  the  name  of 
his  God,  and  said,  "  I  will  show  you,  sir,  that  I  will  raise  up  a  government  in  these 
United  States  which  will  overturn  the  present  government,  and  I  will  raise  up  a 
new  religion  that  will  overturn  every  other  form  of  religion  in  this  country  !  " 

"Yes,"  said  I,  "Uncle  Joe,  but  my  Bible  tells  me  'the  bloody  and  deceitful  man 
shall  not  live  out  half  his  days,'  and  1  expect  the  Lord  will  send  the  devil  after  you 
some  of  these  days,  and  take  you  out  of  the  way." 

"No,  sir,"  said  he,  "I  shall  live  and  prosper,  while  you  will  die  in  your  sins." 

"Well,  sir,"  said  I,  "if  you  live  and  prosper,  you  must  quit  your  stealing  and 
abominable  whoredoms ! " 

Thus  we  parted,  to  meet  no  more  on  earth ;  for,  in  a  few  years  after  this,  an 
outraged  and  deeply  injured  people  took  the  law  into  their  own  hands,  and  killed 
him,  and  drove  the  Mormons  from  the  state.  They  should  be  considered  and 
treated  as  outlaws  in  every  country  and  clime.  The  two  great  political  parties 
in  the  state  were  nearly  equal,  and  these  wretched  Mormons,  for  several  years, 
held  the  balance  of  power,  and  they  were  always  in  market  to  the  highest  bidder, 
and  I  have  often  been  put  to  the  blush  to  see  our  demagogues  and  stump  orators, 
from  both  political  parties,  courting  favors  from  the  Mormons,  to  gain  a  triumph  in 
an  election. 

Great  blame  has  been  attached  to  the  state,  the  citizens  of  Hancock  county,  in 
which  Nauvoo  is  situated,  as  well  as  other  adjoining  counties,  for  the  part  they 
acted  in  driving  the  Mormons  from  among  them.  But  it  should  be  remembered 
they  had  no  redress  at  law,  for  it  is  beyond  all  doubt  that  the  Mormons  would 
swear  anything,  true  or  false.  They  stole  the  stock,  plundered  and  burned  the 
houses  and  barns  of  the  citizens,  and  there  is  no  doubt  they  privately  murdered 


ILLINOIS. 


329 


some  of  the  best  people  in  the  county;  and  owing  to  the  perjured  evidence  al 
ways  at  their  command,  it  was  impossible  to  have  any  legal  redress.  If  it  had 
not  been  for  this  state  of  things,  Joe  Smith  would  not  have  been  killed,  and 
they  would  not  have  been  driven  with  violence  from  the  state.  Repeated  efforts 
were  made  to  get  redress  for  these  wrongs  and  outrages,  but  all  to  no  purpose ; 
and  the  wonder  is,  how  the  people  bore  as  long  as  they  did  with  the  outrageous 
villainies  practiced  on  them,  without  a  resort  to  violent  measures. 


View  of  Mt.  Joliet. 

JOLIET  is  a  thriving  town,  the  county  seat  of  "Will  co.,  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Des  Plaines  River,  and  on  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  148 
miles  N.  E.  by  N.  from  Springfield,  280  from  Detroit,  and  40  S.  W.  from 
Chicago.  It  was  formerly  known  on  the  maps  as  "  McGee's  mill  dam." 
On  the  eastern  side  of  the  river  the  city  extends  over  a  plain  of  considerable 
extent,  rising  as  it  recedes  from  the  river.  Upon  the  western  side  the  land 
is  formed  into  bluffs,  beneath  which  is  one  of  the  principal  streets.  It 
is  an  important  station  on  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island,  and  the  Chicago, 
Alton,  and  St.  Louis  Railroads,  and  is  connected  directly  with  the  east  by 
Joliet  and  Northern  (cut-off)  Railroads.  The  river  affords  valuable  water 
power  for  mills.  It  is  the  center  of  considerable  commerce,  several  manu 
factories  ;  and  in  its  vicinity  is  a  rich  farming  country,  and  valuable  quar 
ries  of  building  stone.  The  new  state  penitentiary  is  in  the  vicinity.  Popu- 
ation  about  7,000. 

Joliet  received  its  name  from  Mt.  Joliet,  a  mound  supposed  to  be  an  arti 
ficial  elevation,  situated  about  two  and  a  half  miles  S.  W.  of  the  court  house 
in  this  place,  and  so  called  from  Louis  Joliet,  who  was  born  of  French  pa 
rents,  at  Quebec,  in  1673.  He  was  commissioned  by  M.  de  Frontenac  to 
discover  the  Great  River,  some  affluents  of  which  had  been  visited  by  mis 
sionaries  and  traders.  Joliet  chose,  for  his  companion,  Father  Marquette, 
whose  name  was  thus  connected  with  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  first  dwellings  erected  in  this  place  was  a  log  house  built  by  Charles  Reed, 
about  half  a  mile  north-west  of  the  court  house,  back  of  the  bluff,  and  the  house 
erected  by  James  McGree,  from  Kentucky,  near  the  National  Hotel.  The  original 
plat  of  the  town  was  laid  out  by  James  B.  Campbell,  in  1834.  West  Joliet,  by 
Martin  H.  Demmond,  in  Jan.  1835;  East  Joliet  by  Albert  W.  Bowen,in  Feb.  1835, 
since  which  time  many  additions  have  been  made.  The  city  of  Joliet  was  incor- 


330  ILLINOIS. 

porated  in  1852.  The  first  house  of  worship  was  erected  by  the  Methodists,  in 
1 838,  about  15  rods  south-west  of  the  court  house :  it  is  now  used  for  an  engine 
house.  The  Catholic  Church,  still  standing,  was  commenced  the  next  year.  The 
first  Episcopal  Church  was  organized  in  1838,  their  house  was  erected  in  1857. 
The  Congregational  Church  was  organized  in  1844;  the  present  Congregational 
and  Methodist  Church  buildings  were  erected  in  1857.  The  Universalists 
erected  their  first  house  in  1845;  the  Baptists  about  1855. 

The  Joliet  Courier,  now  called  Joliet  Signal,  was  first  printed  by  Gregg  and 
Hudson,  about  1836  or  '37;  the  True  Democrat,  the  second  paper,  was  established 
in  1847,  by  A.  Mackintosh,  from  New  York.  The  first  regular  school  house,  a 
stone  building  now  standing  in  Clinton-street,  was  built  in  1843,  at  a  cost  of 
$700,  considered  at  that  time  an  extravagant  expenditure.  Among  the  first 
settlers  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  were  Dr.  Albert  W.  Bowen,  from  N.  Y.,  the 
first  physician;  Edward  Perkins,  Oneida  Co.,  N.  Y. ;  Robert  Shoemaker,  Thomas 
Blackburn,  Richard  Hobbs,  from  Ohio;  Joel  A.  Matteson,  since  governor  of  the 
state ;  Daniel  Wade,  of  Penn.,  and  Lyman  White,  of  N.  Y.  On  the  west  side,  Mar 
tin  H.  Demmond,  from  N.  Y. ;  James  McKee,  or  Gee,  from  Kentucky;  John  Cur 
ry,  G.  H.  Woodruff,  Deac.  Josiah  Beaumont,  John  J.  Garland,  Deac.  Chauncy, 
from  N.  Y. ;  Charles  Clement,  from  New  Hampshire,  and  R.  J.  Cunningham,  from 
Maryland. 

La  Salle,  is  a  flourishing  city,  on  the  right  bank  of  Illinois  River,  at  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation,  one  mile  above  Peru,  and  at  the  terminus  of 
the  Illinois  Canal,  100  miles  long,  connecting  it  with  Chicago.  It  has  a 
ready  communication,  both  with  the  northern  and  southern  markets,  by  rail 
road,  canal  and  river,  the  latter  of  which  is  navigable  at  all  stages  of  water. 
At  this  point  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  crosses  the  Chicago  and  Rock 
Island  Railroad.  This  place  has  great  facilities  for  trade  and  manufactures. 
A  substantial  railroad  bridge,  900  feet  in  length,  crosses  the  Illinois  at  La 
Salle.  An  extensive  establishment  for  the  manufacture  of  flint  glass  is  in 
operation  here,  under  the  charge  of  a  French  gentleman.  Large  warehouses 
line  the  river  bank,  and  the  dwellings  occupy  the  high  bluffs  a  little  back. 
The  surrounding  country  is  highly  productive,  and  contains  extensive  beds 
of  bituminous  coal,  which  is  extensively  mined.  The  city  of  Peru  received 
its  charter  in  1851:  it  is  separated  from  La  Salle  by  only  an  imaginary  line. 
Its  manufacturing  interests  are  well  developed.  The  two  cities  are  in  effect 
one,  so  far  as  regards  advantages  of  business,  and  are  nearly  equal  in  popu 
lation.  Peru  and  La  Salle  have  several  fine  educational  institutions,  11 
churches,  5  weekly  newspapers,  and  about  7,000  inhabitants. 

Dixon,  the  capital  of  Lee  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of 
Bock  River,  at  the  junction  of  a  branch  of  the  Galena  Railroad,  with  the 
Illinois  Central,  98  miles  west  of  Chicago.  It  has  about  5,000  inhabitants. 

Dunleith,  a  smaller  town,  is  the  north-western  terminus  of  the  Illinois 
Central  Railroad,  on  the  Mississippi  opposite  Dubuque. 

Kankakee  City  is  a  fine  town  of  3,500  inhabitants,  56  miles  south  of  Chi 
cago,  on  Kankakee  River  and  Illinois  Central  Railroad,  and  at  a  spot  that  a 
few  years  since  had  not  a  single  dwelling. 

St.  Anne,  on  the  Central  Railroad,  in  Kankakee  county,  is  a  colony  of 
800  French  Canadian  emigrants,  under  the  pastoral  care  of  Father  Chiniquy, 
originally  a  Catholic  priest,  who,  with  his  people,  have  embraced  Protest 
antism.  Each  settler  has  about  40  acres,  and  their  farms  are  laid  along  par 
allel  roads,  at  right  angles  to  the  railroad.  They  exhibit  signs  of  careful 
cultivation,  and  the  village  and  church  of  the  colony  are  prettily  situated 
near  the  woods  on  the  river  side.  In  the  three  years  prior  to  1860,  the  crops 
of  these  people  were  cut  off,  and  but  for  benevolent  aid  they  would  have  per 
ished  from  famine. 


ILLINOIS.  331 

Decatur,  in  Macon  county,  at  the  junction  of  the  Illinois  Central  with  the 
Toledo,  Wabash  and  Great  Western  railroad,  is  a  substantial,  thriving  little 
city,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  geographical  center  of  the  state.  It  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  internal  trade  and  extensive  domestic  manufactures,  and  has 
about  6000  inhabitants.  An  effort  has  been  made  to  create  it  the  state 
capital. 

Vandalia,  capital  of  Fayette  county,  is  on  Kankakee  River  and  Illinois 
Central  Railroad,  80  miles  south-easterly  from  Springfield.  It  was  laid  out 
in  1818,  and  until  1836  was  the  capital  of  Illinois.  It  is  a  small  village. 

Sandoval  is  a  new  town,  on  the  prairies,  230  miles  from  Chicago,  and  60 
from  St.  Louis.  It  is  a  great  railroad  center,  at  the  point  where  intersect  the 
Illinois  Central  and  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroads.  "  Here  east  meets  west, 
and  north  meets  south  in  the  thundering  conflict  of  propulsive  motion,  energy 
and  speed." 

Elgin,  Waukegan,  St.  Charles,  Sterling,  Moline,  Naperville,  Urbana,  Bel- 
videre,  Batavia,  Aurora,  Abingdon,  Macomb,  Belleville,  Sycamore,  and  Otta 
wa  are  all  thriving  towns,  mostly  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  the  largest 
of  which  may  have  5,000  inhabitants. 

A  few  miles  below  Ottawa,  on  the  Illinois  River,  are  the  picturesque  hights 
of  the  Illinois,  called  the  Starved  Rock  and  the  Lover  s  Leap.  Starved  Rock 
is  a  grand  perpendicular  limestone  cliff,  150  feet  in  hight.  It  was  named  in 
memory  of  the  fate  of  a  party  of  Illinois  Indians,  who  died  on  the  rock 
from  thirst,  when  besieged  by  the  Pottawatomies.  Lover's  Leap  is  a  pre 
cipitous  ledge  just  above  Starved  Rock,  and  directly  across  the  river  is 
Buffalo  Rock,  a  hight  of  100  feet.  This  eminence,  though  very  steep  on  the 
water  side,  slopes  easily  inland.  The  Indians  were  wont  to  drive  the  buffa 
loes  in  frightened  herds  to  and  over  its  awful  brink. 


o32  ILLINOIS. 

MISCELLANIES. 
THE     BLACK    HAWK   WAR. 

The  following  account  of  the  "  Black  Hawk  war"  is  taken  from  Mr.  Peck's 
edition  of  Perkins'  Annals: 

In  the  year  1804,  Gen.  Harrison  made  a  treaty  with  the  Sacs  and  Foxes— two 
tribes  united  as  one — by  which  they  ceded  the  lands  east  of  the  Mississippi,  to  the 
United  States ;  but  to  these  lands  they  had  no  original  right,  even  in  the  Indian 
sense,  as  they  were  intruders  on  the  country  of  the  Santeaurs  and  lowas.  By  this 
treaty,  they  were  permitted  to  reside  and  hunt  upon  these  lands,  until  sold  for  set 
tlement  by  the  government 

This  treaty  was  reconfirmed  by  the  Indians,  in  the  years  1815  and  1816.  Black 
Hawk,  who  was  never  a  chief,  but  merely  an  Indian  brave,  collected  a  few  disaf 
fected  spirits,  and  refusing  to  attend  the  negotiations  of  1816,  went  to  Canada, 
proclaimed  himself  and  party  British,  and  received  presents  from  them. 

The  treaty  of  1804,  was  again  ratified  in  1822,  by  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  in  "full 
council,"  at  Fort  Armstrong,  Hock  Island,  on  the  Mississippi.  In  1825,  another 
treaty  was  held  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  with  the  Indians,  by  William  Clark  and  Lewis 
Cass,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  about  a  peace  between  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  the 
Chippewas  and  the  lowas  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  Sioux  and  Dacotahs  on  the 
other.  Hostilities  continuing,  the  United  States,  in  1827,  interfered  between  the 
contending  tribes.  This  offended  the  Indians,  who  thereupon  murdered  two  whites 
in  the  vicinity  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  attacked  two  boats  on  the  Mississippi,  con 
veying  supplies  to  Fort  Snelling,  and  killed  and  wounded  several  of  the  crews. 
Upon  this,  Gen.  Atkinson  marched  into  the  Winnebago  country,  and  made  prison 
ers  of  .Red  Bird  and  six  others,  who  were  imprisoned  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  A  part 
of  those  arrested,  were  convicted  on  trial,  and  in  December  of  the  following  year 
(1828)  executed.  Among  those  discharged  for  want  of  proof,  was  Black  Hawk, 
then  about  sixty  years  of  age. 

About  this  time,  the  president  issued  a  proclamation,  according  to  law,  and  the 
country,  about  the  mouth  of  Rock  River,  which  had  been  previously  surveyed, 
was  sold,  and  the  year  following,  was  taken  possession  of  by  American  families. 
Some  time  previous  to  this,  after  the  death  of  old  Quashquame,  Keokuk  was  ap 
pointed  chief  of  the  Sac  nation.  The  United  States  gave  due  notice  to  the  Indians 
to  leave  the  country  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  Keokuk  made  the  same  proclama 
tion  to  the  Sacs,  and  a  portion  of  the  nation,  with  their  regular  chiefs,  with  Keo 
kuk  at  their  head,  peaceably  retired  across  the  Mississippi.  Up  to  this  period, 
Black  Hawk  continued  his  annual  visits  to  Maiden,  and  received  his  annuity  for 
allegiance  to  the  British  government.  He  would  not  recognize  Keokuk  as  chief, 
but  gathered  about  him  all  the  restless  spirits  of  his  tribe,  many  of  whom  were 
young,  and  fired  with  the  ambition  of  becoming  "braves,"  and  set  up  himself  for  a 
chief. 

Black  Hawk  was  not  a  Pontiac,  or  a  Tecumseh.  He  had  neither  the  talent  nor 
the  influence  to  form  any  comprehensive  scheme  of  action,  yet  he  made  an  abor 
tive  attempt  to  unite  all  the  Indians  of  the  west,  from  Rock  River  to  Mexico,  in  a 
war  against  the  United  States. 

Still  another  treaty,  and  the  seventh  in  succession,  was  made  with  the  Sacs  and 
Foxes,  on  the  15th  of  July,  1830,  in  which  they  again  confirmed  the  preceding 
treaties,  and  promised  to  remove  from  Illinois  to  the  territory  west  of  the  Mis 
sissippi.  This  was  no  new  cession,  but  a  recognition  of  the  former  treaties  by 
the  proper  authorities  of  the  nation,  and  a  renewed  pledge  of  fidelity  to  the  United 
States. 

During  all  this  time,  Black  Hawk  was  gaining  accessions  to  his  party.  Like 
Tecumseh,  he,  too,  had  his  Prophet — whose  influence  over  the  superstitious  savages 
was  not  without  effect. 

In  1830,  an  arrangement  was  made  by  the  Americans  who  had  purchased  the 
land  above  the  mouth  of  Rock  River,  and  the  Indians  that  remained,  to  live  as 
neighbors,  the  latter  cultivating  their  old  fields.  Their  inclosures  consisted  of 
stakes  stuck  in  the  ground,  and  small  poles  tied  with  strips  of  bark  transversely. 


ILLINOIS. 


333 


The  Indians  left  for  their  summer's  hunt,  and  returned  when  their  corn  was  in 
the  milk — gathered  it,  and  turned  their  horses  into  the  fields  cultivated  by  the 
Americans,  to  gather  their  crop.  Some  depredations  were  committed  on  their  hogs 
and  other  property.  The  Indians  departed  on  their  winter's  hunt,  but  returned 
early  in  the  spring  of  1831,  under  the  guidance  of  Black  Hawk,  and  committed 
depredations  on  the  frontier  settlements.  Their  leader  was  a  cunning,  shrewd  In 
dian,  and  trained  his  party  to  commit  various  depredations  on  the  property  of  the 
frontier  inhabitants,  but  not  to  attack,  or  kill  any  person.  His  policy  was  to  pro 
voke  the  Americans  to  make  war  on  him,  and  thus  seem  to  fight  in  defense  of  In 
dian  rights,  and  the  "  graves  of  their  fathers."  Numerous  affidavits,  from  persons 
of  unquestionable  integrity,  sworn  to  before  the  proper  officers,  were  made  out  and 
sent  to  Gov.  Reynolds,  attesting  to  these  and  many  other  facts. 

Black  Hawk  had  about  five  hundred  Indians  in  training,  with  horses,  well  pro 
vided  with  arms,  and  invaded  the  state  of  Illinois  with  hostile  designs.  These  facts 
were  known  to  the  governor  and  other  officers  of  the  state.  Consequently,  Gov. 
Reynolds,  on  the  28th  of  May,  1831,  made  a  call  for  volunteers,  and  communicated 
the  facts  to  Gen.  Gaines,  of  this  military  district,  and  made  a  call  for  regular  troops. 
The  state  was  invaded  by  a  hostile  band  of  savages,  under  an  avowed  enemy  of 
the  United  States.  The  military  turned  out  to  the  number  of  twelve  hundred  or 
more,  on  horseback,  and  under  command  of  the  late  Gen.  Joseph  Duncan,  marched 
to  Rock  River. 

The  regular  troops  went  up  the  Mississippi  in  June.  Black  Hawk  and  his  men, 
alarmed  at  this  formidable  appearance,  recrossed  the  Mississippi,  sent  a  white  flag, 
and  made  a  treaty,  in  which  the  United  States  agreed  to  furnish  them  a  large 
amount  of  corn  and  other  necessaries,  if  they  would  observe  the  treaty. 

In  the  spring  of  1832,  Black  Hawk,  with  his  party,  again  crossed  the  Mississippi 
to  the  valley  of  Rock  River,  notwithstanding  he  was  warned  against  doing  so  by 
Gen.  Atkinson,  who  commanded  at  Fort  Armstrong,  in  Rock  Island.  Troops,  both 
regular  and  militia,  were  at  once  mustered  and  marched  in  pursuit  of  the  native 
band.  Among  the  troops  was  a  party  of  volunteers  under  Major  Stillman,  who,  on 
the  14th  of  May,  was  out  on  a  tour  of  observation,  and  close  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  savages.  On  that  evening,  having  discovered  a  party  of  Indians,  the  whitea 
galloped  forward  to  attack  the  savage  band,  but  were  met  with  so  much  energy  and 
determination,  that  they  took  to  their  heels  in  utter  consternation.  The  whites 
were  175  in  number ;  the  Indians  from  five  to  six  hundred.  Of  this  party,  twenty- 
five  followed  the  retreating  battalion,  after  night  for  several  miles.  Eleven  whites 
were  killed  and  shockingly  mangled,  and  several  wounded.  Some  four  or  five  In 
dians  were  known  to  be  killed.  This  action  was  at  Stillman' s  run,  in  the  eastern 
part  of  Ogle  county,  about  twenty-five  miles  above  Dixon. 

Peace  was  now  hopeless,  and  although  Keokuk,  the  legitimate  chief  of  the  na 
tion,  controlled  a  majority,  the  temptation  of  war  and  plunder  was  too  strong  for 
those  who  followed  Black  Hawk. 

On  the  21st  of  May,  a  party  of  warriors,  about  seventy  in  number,  attacked  the 
Indian  Creek  settlement  in  La  Salle  county,  Illinois,  killed  fifteen  persons,  and  took 
two  young  women  prisoners;  these  were  afterward  returned  to  their  friends,  late 
in  July,  through  the  efforts  of  the  Winnebagoes.  On  the  following  day,  a  party 
of  spies  was  attacked  and  four  of  them  slain,  and  other  massacres  followed. 
Meanwhile  3,000  Illinois  militia  had  been  ordered  out,  who  rendezvoused  upon  the 
20th  of  June,  near  Peru;  these  marched  forward  to  the  Rock  River,  where  they 
.  were  joined  by  the  United  States  troops,  the  whole  being  under  command  of  Gen, 
Atkinson.  Six  hundred  mounted  men  were  also  ordered  out,  while  Gen.  Scott, 
with  nine  companies  of  artillery,  hastened  from  the  seaboard  by  the  way  of  the 
lakes  to  Chicago,  moving  with  such  celerity  that  some  of  his  troops,  we  are  told, 
actually  went  1,800  miles  in  eighteen  days  ;  passing  in  that  time  from  Fort  Mon 
roe,  on  the  Chesapeake,  to  Chicago.  Long  before  the  artillerists  could  reach  the 
scene  of  action,  however,  the  western  troops  had  commenced  the  conflict  in  earn 
est,  and  before  they  did  reach  the  field,  had  closed  it.  On  the  24th  of  June,  Black 
Hawk  and  his  two  hundred  warriors  were  repulsed  by  Major  Demint,  with  but  one 
hundred  and  fifty  militia:  this  skirmish  took  place  between  Rock  River  and  Ga 
lena,  The  army  then  continued  to  move  up  Rock  River,  near  the  heads  of  which, 


334  ILLINOIS. 

it  was  understood  that  the  main  party  of  the  hostile  Indians  was  collected ;  and 
as  provisions  were  scarce,  and  hard  to  convey  in  such  a  country,  a  detachment  was 
sent  forward  to  Fort  Winnebago,  at  the  portage  between  the  Wisconsin  and  Fox 
Rivers,  to  procure  supplies.  This  detachment,  hearing  of  Black  Hawk's  army, 
pursued  and  overtook  them  on  the  21st  of  July,  near  the  Wisconsin  River,  and  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Blue  Mounds.  Gen.  Henry,  who  commanded  the  party, 
formed  with  his  troops  three  sides  of  a  hollow  square,  and  in  that  order  received 
the  attack  of  the  Indians ;  two  attempts  to  break  the  ranks  were  made  by  the  na 
tives  in  vain ;  and  then  a  general  charge  was  made  by  the  whole  body  of  Ameri 
cans,  and  with  such  success  that,  it  is  said,  fifty-two  of  the  red  men  were  left  dead 
upon  the  field,  while  but  one  American  was  killed  and  eight  wounded. 

Before  this  action,  Henry  had  sent  word  of  his  motions  to  the  main  army,  by 
whom  he  was  immediately  rejoined,  and  on  the  28th  of  July,  the  whole  crossed  the 
Wisconsin  in  pursuit  of  Black  Hawk,  who  was  retiring  toward  the  Mississippi. 
Upon  the  bank  of  that  river,  nearly  opposite  the  Upper  Iowa,  the  Indians  were 
overtaken  and  again  defeated,  on  the  2d  of  August,  with  a  loss  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  men,  while  of  the  whites  but  eighteen  fell.  This  battle  entirely  broke  the 
power  of  Black  Hawk ;  he  fled,  but  was  seized  by  the  Winnebagoes,  and  upon  the 
27th,  was  delivered  to  the  officers  of  the  United  States,  at  Prairie  du  Chien. 

Gen.  Scott,  during  the  months  of  July  and  August,  was  contending  with  a  worse 
than  Indian  foe.  The  Asiatic  cholera  had  just  reached  Canada;  passing  up  the 
St.  Lawrence  to  Detroit,  it  overtook  the  western-bound  armament,  and  thenceforth 
the  camp  became  a  hospital.  On  the  8th  of  July,  his  thinned  ranks  landed  at  Fort 
Dearborn  or  Chicago,  but  it  was  late  in  August  before  they  reached  the  Mississippi. 
The  number  of  that  band  who  died  from  the  cholera,  must  have  been  at  least  seven 
times  as  great  as  that  of  all  who  fell  in  battle.  There  were  several  other  skir 
mishes  of  the  troops  with  the  Indians,  and  a  number  of  individuals  murdered ; 
making  in  all  about  seventy-five  persons  killed  in  these  actions,  or  murdered  on  the 
frontiers. 

In  September,  the  Indian  troubles  were  closed  by  a  treaty,  which  relinquished 
to  the  white  men  thirty  millions  of  acres  of  land,  for  which  stipulated  annuities 
were  to  be  paid ;  constituting  now  the  eastern  portion  of  the  state  of  Iowa,  to 
which  the  only  real  claim  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  was  their  depredations  on  the 
unoffending  lowas,  about  140  years  since.  To  Keokuk  and  his  party,  a  reserva 
tion  of  forty  miles  square  was  given,  in  consideration  of  his  fidelity ;  while  Black 
Hawk  and  his  family  were  sent  as  hostages  to  Fort  Monroe,  in  the  Chesapeake, 
where  they  remained  until  June,  1833.  The  chief  afterward  returned  to  his  na 
tive  wilds,  where  he  died. 

CAVE- IN-ROCK. 

On  the  Ohio  River,  in  Hardin  county,  a  few  miles  above  Elizabethtown,  near  the 
south-  eastern  corner  of  the  state,  is  a  famous  cavern,  known  as  Cave-in-Rock.  Its 
entrance  is  a  semi-circular  arch  of  about  80  feet  span  and  25  feet  in  hight,  and 
ascending  gradually  from  the  bed  of  the  river,  it  penetrates  to  the  distance  of 
nearly  200  feet.  This  cave,  in  early  times,  was  the  terror  of  the  boatmen  on  the 
Ohio,  for  it  was  one  of  the  haunts  of  Mason  and  his  band  of  outlaws,  whose  acts 
of  murder  upon  travelers  through  the  wilderness  are  elsewhere  detailed  in  this 
work  The  pioneers  of  the  west  suffered  greatly  from  the  desperadoes,  who  in 
fested  the  country  in  the  early  stages  of  its  history.  And  there  have  not  been 
wanting,  even  in  more  recent  times,  instances  in  which  bands  of  villains  have  been 
formed  to  set  all  law  at  defiance  by  preying  upon  society. 

About  the  year  1820,  the  southern  counties  of  Illinois  contained  a  gang  of  horse 
thieves,  so  numerous  and  well  organized  as  to  defy  punishment  by  legal  means,  un 
til  a  company  of  citizens  was  formed,  called  "  regulators,"  who,  taking  the  law  into 
their  own  hands,  at  last  drove  the  felons  from  the  neighborhood.  In  1841,  a  gang 
of  these  scoundrels  existed  in  Ogle  county  and  its  vicinity,  in  the  Rock  River  coun 
try.  Wm.  Cullen  Bryant  was  traveling  there  at  the  time,  and  in  his  published 
volume  of  letters,  gives,  substantially,  this  narrative  of  their  operations  : 

The  thieves  were  accustomed  to  select  the  best  animals  from  the  drove,  and  these 
were  passed  from  one  station  to  another,  until  they  arrived  at  some  distant  market, 


ILLINOIS.  335 

where  they  were  sold.  They  had  their  regular  lines  of  communication  from  Wis 
consin  to  St.  Louis,  and  from  the  Wabash  to  the  Mississippi.  In  Ogle  county,  it  is 
said  they  had  a  justice  of  the  peace  and  a  constable  among  their  associates,  and 
they  contrived  always  to  secure  a  friend  on  the  jury  whenever  one  of  their  num 
ber  was  tried.  Trial  after  trial  had  taken  place  at  iJixon,  the  county  seat,  and  it 
had  been  found  impossible  to  obtain  a  conviction  on  the  clearest  evidence,  until  in 


Cave'in-Rock,  on  the  Ohio. 

April  of  this  year,  when  two  horse  thieves  being  on  trial,  eleven  of  the  jury  threat 
ened  the  twelfth  juror  with  a  taste  of  the  cowskin,  unless  he  would  bring  in  a 
verdict  of  guilty.  He  did  so,  and  the  men  were  condemned.  Before  they  were 
removed  to  the  state  prison,  the  court  house,  a  fine  building,  just  erected  at  an  ex 
pense  of  $20,000,  was  burnt  down,  and  the  jail  was  in  flames,  but  luckily  they 
were  extinguished  without  the  liberation  of  the  prisoners.  Such,  at  length,  be 
came  the  feeling  of  insecurity,  that  300  citizens  of  Ogle,  De  Kalb  and  Winnebago 
counties  formed  themselves  into  a  company  of  volunteers,  for  the  purpose  of  clear 
ing  the  country  of  these  scoundrels.  The  patrons  of  the  thieves  lived  at  some 
of  the  finest  groves,  where  they  owned  large  farms.  Ten  or  twenty  stolen  horses 
would  be  brought  to  one  of  these  places  of  a  night,  and  before  sunrise,  the  despera 
does  employed  to  steal  them  were  again  mounted  and  on  their  way  to  some  other 
station.  In  breaking  up  these  haunts,  the  regulators  generally  proceeded  with 
some  of  the  formalities  commonly  used  in  administering  justice,  the  accused  being 
allowed  to  make  a  defense,  and  witnesses  examined  both  for  and  against  him. 

At  this  time,  there  lived  at  Washington  Grove,  in  Ogle  county,  one  Bridge,  a  no 
torious  confederate  and  harborer  of  horse  thieves  and  counterfeiters.  In  July  two 
horse  thieves  had  been  flogged,  and  Bridge  received  a  notice  from  the  regulators 
that  he  must  leave  the  county  by  the  17th,  or  become  a  proper  subject  for  the 
lynch  law.  Thereupon  he  came  into  Dixon,  and  asked  for  assistance  to  defend 
his  person  and  dwelling  from  the  lawless  violence  of  these  men.  The  people  of 
Dixon  then  came  together,  and  passed  a  resolution  to  the  effect  that  they  fully  ap 
proved  of  what  the  association  had  done,  and  that  they  allowed  Mr.  Bridges  the 
term  of  four  hours  to  depart  from  the  town.  He  went  away  immediately,  and  in 
great  trepidation,  but  made  preparations  to  defend  himself.  He  kept  20  armed 
men  about  his  place  for  two  days,  but  thinking,  at  last,  that  the  regulators  did  not 
mean  to  carry  their  threats  into  execution,  he  dismissed  them.  The  regulators 
subsequently  removed  his  family,  and  demolished  his  dwelling. 

Not  long  after,  two  men,  mounted  and  carrying  rifles,  called  at  the  residence  of 


336  ILLINOIS. 

a  Mr.  Campbell,  living  at  Whiterock  Grove,  in  Ogle  county,  who  belonged  to  tie 
company  of  regulators,  and  who  acted  as  the  messenger  to  convey  to  Bridges  the 
order  to  leave  the  county.  Meeting  Mrs.  Campbell  without  the  house,  they  toid 
her  that  they  wished  to  speak  to  her  husband.  Campbell  made  his  appearance  *t 
the  door,  and  immediately  both  the  men  fired.  He  fell,  mortally  wounded,  and  dihd 
in  a  few  minutes.  "  You  have  killed  my  husband,"  said  Mrs.  Campbell  to  one  of 
the  murderers,  whose  name  was  Driscoll.  Upon  this  they  rode  off  at  full  speed. 

As  soon  as  the  event  was  known,  the  whole  country  was  roused,  and  every  man 
who  was  not  an  associate  of  the  horse  thieves,  shouldered  his  rifle  to  go  in  pursuit 
of  the  murderers.  They  apprehended  the  father  of  Driscoll,  a  man  nearly  70 
years  of  age,  and  one  of  his  sons,  William  Driscoll,  the  former  a  reputed  horse 
thief,  and  the  latter  a  man  who  had  hitherto  born  a  tolerably  fair  character,  and 
subjected  them  to  a  separate  examination.  The  father  was  wary  in  his  answers, 
and  put  on  the  appearance  of  perfect  innocence,  but  William  Driscoll  was  greatly 
agitated,  and  confessed  that  he,  with  his  father  and  others,  had  planned  the  mur 
der  of  Campbell,  and  that  David  Driscoll,  his  brother,  together  with  another  asso 
ciate,  was  employed  to  execute  it  The  father  and  son  were  then  sentenced  to 
death ;  they  were  bound  and  made  to  kneel.  About  50  men  took  aim  at  each,  and 
in  three  hours  from  the  time  they  were  taken,  they  were  both  dead  men.  A  pit 
was  dug  on  the  spot  where  they  fell,  in  the  midst  of  the  prairie  near  their  dwelling. 
Their  corpses,  pierced  with  bullet  holes  in  every  part,  were  thrown  in,  and  the 
earth  was  heaped  over  them. 

The  pursuit  of  David  Driscoll,  and  the  fellow  who  was  with  him  when  Campbell 
was  killed,  went  on  with  great  activity,  more  than  a  hundred  men  traversed  the 
country  in  every  direction,  determined  that  no  lurking  place  should  hide  them. 
The  upshot  was,  that  the  Driscoll  family  lost  another  member,  and  the  horse  thieves 
and  their  confederates  were  driven  from  the  country. 

Within  a  very  few  years,  the  thinly  settled  parts  of  Iowa  have  suffered  from  like 
organized  gangs  of  horse  thieves,  until  the  people  were  obliged  to  resort  to  a  like 
summary  process  of  dispelling  the  nuisance.  To  the  isolated  settler  in  a  wilder 
ness  country,  living  many  a  long  mile  from  neighbors,  the  horse  is  of  a  peculiar 
value,  elsewhere  unknown.  So  keenly  is  the  robbery  of  these  animals  felt,  that, 
in  the  failure  of  ordinary  penalties  to  stop  the  perpetration  of  this  crime,  public 
opinion  justifies  the  generally  recognized  "  Frontier  Law,"  that  DEATH  is  to  be 
meted  out  to  horse  thieves. 


THE  TIMES 

OP 

THE      REBELLION 

IN 

ILLINOIS. 


The  attitude  of  several  of  the  states  of  the  union  has  been  deter 
mined  by  the  conduct  of  a  few  noble  men  in  the  hour  of  trial.  Where 
men  of  ability  faltered  or  proved  recreant,  the  people  of  that  state 
became  divided,  and  all  the  horrors  of  civil  war  were  experienced, 
but,  where  they  were  loyal,  the  people  united,  and  the  war  raged  far 
from  their  borders.  Had  Kentucky,  instead  of  a  Magoffin,  had  a  Mor 
ton,  and  Missouri  a  Yates,  instead  of  a  Jackson,  how  different  might 
have  the  history  of  those  states  been :  what  horrors  they  might  have 
escaped.  Illinois  was  peculiarly  fortunate  in  her  public  men  at  the 
outbreak  of  the  rebellion.  With  them  love  of  country  overruled  every 
other  consideration. 

DOUGLAS,  the  great  statesman  of  the  west,  in  the  hour  of  the  na 
tion's  peril,  forgot  the  claims  of  party  in  his  devotion  to  his  country, 
and  spoke  words  that  thrilled  and  inspired  the  heart  of  the  people. 
Her  executive  was  prompt,  fhr-sighted  and  untiring  in  labor  for  the 
welfare  of  the  soldiers  of  Illinois. 

It  was  his  eye  that  discerned  in  a  captain  of  infantry  those  high 
qualities  which  have  made  the  name  of  GRANT  illustrious.  And  from 
Illinois,  too,  came  ABRAHAM  LINCOLN,  that  PATIENT  man,  who,  with 
singular  calmness  and  wisdom,  looking  serenely  aloft,  bore  the  helm 
in  the  years  of  the  people's  great  trouble. 

As  a  mournful  interest  now  gathers  around  the  name  of  DOUGLAS, 
we  give  some  of  his  last  words — the.  noblest  of  his  life.  On  the  evening 
of  the  first  of  May,  1861,  he  reached  Chicago  from  Washington,  and 
there,  to  an  immense  concourse,  made  his  last  speech,  which,  it  has 
been  said,  "should  be  engraved  upon  the  tablet  of  every  patriot 
heart." 

I  will  not  conceal  gratification  at  the  uncontrovertible  test  this  vast  audience 
presents — that  what  political  differences  or  party  questions  may  have  divided  us, 
yet  you  all  had  a  conviction  that  when  the  country  should  be  in  danger,  my  loyalty 
could  be  relied  on.  That  the  present  danger  is  imminent,  no  man  can  conceal. 
If  war  must  come — if  the  bayonet  must  be  used  to  maintain  the  constitution — I 
can  say  before  God  my  conscience  is  clean.  1  have  struggled  long  for  a  peaceful 
22  (337) 


338  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

solution  of  the  difficulty.  I  have  not  only  tendered  those  states  what  was  theirs 
of  right,  but  I  have  gone  to  the  very  extreme  of  magnanimity. 

The  return  we  receive  is  war,  armies  marched  upon  our  capital,  obstructions 
and  dangers  to  our  navigation,  letters  of  marque  to  invite  pirates  to  prey  upon 
our  commerce,  a  concerted  movement  to  blot  out  the  United  States  of  America 
from  the  map  of  the  globe.  The  question  is,  are  we  to  maintain  the  country  of 
our  fathers,  or  allow  it  to  be  stricken  down  by  those  who,  when  they  can  no  longer 
govern,  threaten  to  destroy  ? 

What  cause,  what  excuse  do  disunionists  give  us  for  breaking  up  the  best  gov 
ernment  on  which  the  sun  of  heaven  ever  shed  its  rays  ?  They  are  dissatisfied 
with  the  result  of  a  presidential  election.  Did  they  never  get  beaten  before  ? 
Are  we  to  resort  to  the  sword  when  we  get  defeated  at  the  ballot  box  ?  I  under 
stand  it  that  the  voice  of  the  people  expressed  in  the  mode  appointed  by  the  con 
stitution  must  command  the  obedience  of  every  citizen.  They  assume,  on  the 
election  of  a  particular  candidate,  that  their  rights  are  not  safe  in  the  union. 
What  evidence  do  they  present  of  this  ?  I  defy  any  man  to  show  any  act  on 
which  it  is  based.  What  act  has  been  omitted  to  be  done  ?  I  appeal  to  these  as 
sembled  thousands  that  so  far  as  the  constitutional  rights  of  the  southern  states, 
I  will  say  the  constitutional  rights  of  slaveholders  are  concerned,  nothing  has 
been  done  and  nothing  omitted  of  which  they  can  complain. 

There  has  never  been  a  time,  from  the  day  that  Washington  was  inaugurated 
first  president  of  these  United  States,  when  the  rights  of  the  southern  states 
stood  firmer  under  the  laws  of  the  land,  than  they  do  now ;  there  never  was  a 
time  when  they  had  not  as  good  a  cause  for  disunion  as  they  have  to-day.  What 
good  cause  have  they  now  that  has  not  existed  under  every  administration  ?  .  .  . 

The  slavery  question  is  a  mere  excuse.  The  election  of  Lincoln  is  a  mere 
pretext  The  present  secession  movement  is  the  result  of  an  enormous  conspiracy 
formed  by  leaders  in  the  Southern  Confederacy  more  than  twelve  months  ago.  .  .  . 

But  this  is  no  time  for  a  detail  of  causes.  The  conspiracy  is  now  known.  Ar 
mies  have  been  raised.  War  is  levied  to  accomplish  it.  There  are  only  two  sides 
to  the  question.  Kvery  man  must  be  for  the  United  States  or  against  it  There 
can  be  no  neutrals  in  this  war.  only  patriots — or  traitors. 

Thank  God,  Illinois  is  not  divided  on  this  question.  I  know  they  expected  to 
present  an  united  south  against  a  divided  north.  They  hoped  in  the  northern 
states,  party  questions  would  bring  civil  war  between  democrats  and  republicans, 
when  the  south  would  step  in  with  her  cohorts,  aid  one  party  to  conquer  the 
other,  and  then  make  an  easy  prey  of  the  victors.  Their  scheme  was  carnage  and 
civil  war  in  the  north. 

There  is  but  one  way  to  defeat  this.  In  Illinois  it  is  being  so  defeated,  by  clos 
ing  up  the  ranks.  War  will  thus  be  prevented  on  our  soil.  While  there  was  a 
hope  of  peace,  I  was  ready  for  any  reasonable  sacrifice  or  compromise  to  main 
tain  it.  But  when  the  question  comes  of  war  in  the  cotton-fields  of  the  south  or 
the  corn-fields  of  Illinois,  I  say  the  farther  off  the  better 

The  constitution  and  its  guarantees  are  our  birthright,  and  I  am  ready  to  en 
force  that  inalienable  right  to  the  last  extent.  We  can  not  recognize  secession. 
.Recognize  it  once,  and  you  have  not  only  dissolved  government,  but  you  have  de 
stroyed  social  order,  upturned  the  foundations  of  society.  You  have  inaugurated 
anarchy  in  its  worst  form,  and  will  shortly  experience  all  the  horrors  of  the 
French  revolution. 

Then  we  have  a  solemn  duty- — to  maintain  the  government  The  greater  our 
unanimity  the  speedier  the  day  of  peace.  We  have  prejudices  to  overcome,  from 
the  few  short  months  since  of  a  fierce  party  contest  Yet  these  must  be  allayed. 
Let  us  lay  aside  all  criminations  and  recriminations  as  to  the  origin  of  these  diffi 
culties.  When  we  shall  have  again  a  country  with  the  United  States  flag  float 
ing  over  it,  and  respected  on  every  inch  of  American  soil,  it  will  then  be  time 
enough  to  ask  who  and  what  brought  all  this  upon  us. 

I  have  said  more  than  I  intended  to  say.  [Cries  of  "  Go  on."]  It  is  a  sad  task 
to  discuss  questions  so  fearful  as  civil  war;  but,  sad  as  it  is,  bloody  and  disas 
trous  as  I  expect  it  will  be,  I  express  it  as  my  conviction  before  God,  that  it  is  the 
duty  of  every  American  citizen  to  rally  around  the  flag  of  his  country. 


IN  ILLINOIS. 

I  thank  you  again  for  this  magnificent  demonstration.  By  it,  you  show  you 
have  laid  aside  party  strife.  Illinois  has  a  proud  position.  United,  firm,  deter 
mined  never  to  permit  the  government  to  be  destroyed. 

A  few  days  later,  and  Stephen  A.  Douglas  had  done  with  all  mortal 
conflicts.  His  dying  words  was  a  last  message  to  his  absent  sons  — 
"  Tell  them  to  obey  the  laws,  and  support  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States." 

Looking  back  over  four  years  of  war,  in  which  ILLINOIS  had  borne 
so  conspicuous  a  part,  her  governor  gives  the  following  satisfactory 
record. 

As  a  state,  notwithstanding  the  war,  we  have  prospered  beyond  all  former  pre 
cedents.  Notwithstanding  nearly  200,000  of  the  most  athletic  and  vigorous  of 
our  population  have  been  withdrawn  from  the  field  of  production,  the  area  of 
land  now  under  cultivation  is  greater  than  at  any  former  period,  and  our  prosper 
ity  is  as  complete  and  ample  as  though  no  tread  of  armies  or  beat  of  drum  had 
been  heard  in  all  our  borders. 

Appreciating,  before  the  first  gun  was  fired  at  Sumter,  the  determination  of 
treasonable  political  leaders  to  inaugurate  rebellion,  and.  when  war  was  actually 
made  against  the  government,  the  great  preparation  made  by  them  for  revolt,  and 
the  magnitude  of  the  struggle  we  would  be  compelled  to  pass  through,  I  earnestly 
insisted  upon  and  urged  more  extensive  preparation  for  the  prosecution  of  the 
war. 

After  the  war  had  progressed  a  year,  and  the  mild  measures  which  were  still 
persistently  advocated  by  many  friends  of  the  administration,  and  with  all  the 
evidence,  on  the  part  of  the  rebels,  for  complete  preparation  and  determination  to 
wage  a  long  and  desperate  war  against  the  government,  I  sent  the  president  the 
following  dispatch : 

BXKCUTIVB  DEPARTMENT,  SPRINQF-IBLD,  ILL.,  July  11,  1862 
President  Lincoln,  Washington,  D.  C.  : 

The  crisis  of  the  war  and  our  national  existence  is  upon  us.  The  time  has  come  for  the 
adoption  of  more  decisive  measures.  Greater  vigor  and  earnestness  must  be  infused  into 
our  military  movements.  Blows  must  be  struck  at  the  vital  parts  of  the  rebellion.  The 
government  should  employ  eyery  available  means  compatible  with  the  rules  of  warfare  to 
subject  the  traitors.  Summon  to  the  standard  of  the  republic  all  men  willing  to  fight  for 
the  union.  Let  loyalty,  and  that  alone,  be  the  dividing  line  between  the  nation  and*its 
foes.  Generals  should  not  be  permitted  to  fritter  away  the  sinews  of  our  brave  men  in 
guarding  the  property  of  traitors,  and  in  driving  back  into  their  hands  loyal  blacks,  who 
offer  us  their  labor,  and  seek  shelter  beneath  the  federal  flag.  Shall  we  sit  supinely  by, 
and  see  the  war  sweep  off  the  youth  and  strength  of  the  land,  and  refuse  aid  from  that 
class  of  men,  who  are  at  least  worthy  foes  of  traitors  and  the  murderers  of  our  government 
and  of  our  children  ? 

Our  armies  should  be  directed  to  forage  on  the  enemy,  and  to  cease  paying  traitors  and 
their  abettors  exorbitant  exactions  for  food  needed  by  the  sick  and  hungry  soldier.  Mild 
and  eoncilatory  means  have  been  tried  in  vain  to  recall  the  rebels  to  their  allegiance.  The 
conservative  policy  has  utterly  failed  to  reduce  traitors  to  obedience,  and  to  restore  the 
supremacy  of  the  laws.  They  have,  by  means  of  sweeping  conscriptions,  gathered  in 
countless  hordes,  and  threaten  to  beat  back  and  overwhelm  the  armies  of  the  union.  With 
blood  and  treason  in  their  hearts,  they  flaunt  the  black  flag  of  rebellion  in  the  face  of  the 
government,  and  threaten  to  butcher  our  brave  and  loyal  armies  with  foreign  bayonets. 
They  arm  negroes  and  merciless  savages  in  their  behalf. 

Mr.  Lincoln,  the  crisis  demands  greater  and  sterner  measures.  Proclaim  anew  the  good 
old  motto  of  the  republic,  "  liberty  and  union,  now  and  forever,  one  and  inseparable,"  and 
accept  the  services  of  all  loyal  men,  and  it  will  be  in  your  power  to  stamp  armies  out  of 
the  earth — irresistible  armies  that  will  bear  our  banners  to  certain  victory. 

In  any  event,  Illinois,  already  alive  with  beat  of  drum,  and  resounding  with  the  tramp 
of  new  recruits,  will  respond  to  your  call.  Adopt  this  policy,  and  she  will  leap  like  a  flam 
ing  giant  into  the  fight. 

This  policy,  for  the  conduct  of  the  war,  will  render  foreign  intervention  impossible,  and 
the  arms  of  the  republic  invincible.  It  will  bring  the  conflict  to  a  speedy  close,  and  secure 
peace  on  a  permanent  basis.  RICHARD  YATKS, 

Governor  of  Illinois. 


340  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Wa  have  lost  thousands  of  our  best  men,  and  whole  regiments  and  batteries, 
in  the  conflicts  of  this  fearful  war;  but  we  have  not  to  deplore  the  decimation  of 
the  ranks  of  gallant  regiments,  led  by  timid  and  halting  generals  on  fruitless  and 
purposeless  campaigns,  prosecuted  without  skill  or  vigor,  and  with  the  deplorable 
morale  of  a  fear  to  punish  traitors  not  actually  in  arms,  and  the  employment  of 
the  best  strength  of  their  armies  in  protecting  rebel  property. 

Belmont,  Donelson,  Island  No.  10,  Shiloh,  Corinth,  Parker's  cross-roads,  Port 
Gibson,  .Raymond,  Champion  hills,  Black  river,  siege  of  Vicksburg,  Perry ville, 
Stone  river,  Chickamauga,  Lookout  mountain,  Atlanta,  Franklin,  Nashville,  and 
the  triumphal  march  of  Sherman,  speak  in  thunder  tones  of  the  consolidated 
efforts  of  Illinois,  vieing  with  the  volunteers  of  other  states  in  battling  for  the 
union. 

Our  total  quota,  under  calls  of  the  president,  prior  to  Dec.  1, 1864,  was,  197,360. 

In  prompt  support  of  the  government  at  home,  and  in  response  to  calls  for 
troops,  the  state  stands  pre-eminently  in  the  lead  among  her  loyal  sisters ;  and 
every  click  of  the  telegraph  heralds  the  perseverance  of  Illinois  generals  and  the 
indomitable  courage  and  bravery  of  Illinois  sons,  in  every  engagement  of  the  war. 
Our  state  has  furnished  a  very  large  contingent  to  the  fighting  strength  of  our 
national  army.  In  the  west,  the  history  of  the  war  is  brilliant  with  recitations 
of  the  skill  and  prowess  of  our  general,  field,  staff  and  line  officers,  and  hundreds 
of  Illinois  boys  in  Hie  ranks  are  specially  singled  out  and  commended  by  Generals 
Grant,  Sherman,  and  other  generals  of  this  and  other  states,  for  their  noble  deeds 
and  manly  daring  on  hotly  contested  fields.  One  gallant  Illinois  boy  is  mentioned 
as  being  the  first  to  plant  the  stars  and  stripes  at  Donelson  ;  another,  at  a  critical 
moment,  anticipates  the  commands  of  a  superior  officer,  in  hurrying  forward  an 
ammunition  train,  and  supervising  hand  grenades,  by  cutting  short  the  fuses  of 
heavy  shell,  and  hurling  them,  with  his  own  hands,  in  front  of  an  assaulting  col 
umn,  into  a  strong  redoubt  at  Vicksburg ;  and  the  files  of  my  office  and  those  of 
the  adjutant-general  are  full  of  letters  mentioning  for  promotion  hundreds  of  pri 
vate  soldiers,  who  have,  on  every  field  of  the  war,  distinguished  themselves  by 
personal  gallantry,  at  trying  and  critical  periods.  The  list  of  promotions  from  the 
field  and  staff  of  our  regiments  to  lieutenant  and  major-generals,  for  gallant  con 
duct  and  the  prerequisites  for  efficient  and  successful  command,  compare  brilliantly 
with  the  names  supplied  by  other  states,  and  is  positive  proof  of  the  wisdom  of 
of  the  government  in  conferring  honors  and  responsibilities;  and  the  patient,  vigi 
lant  and  tenacious  record  made  by  our  veteran  regiments,  in  the  camp,  on  the 
march  and  in  the  field,  is  made  a  subject  of  praise  by  the  whole  country,  and  will 
be  the  theme  for  poets  and  historians  of  all  lands,  for  all  time. 

Prominent  among  the  many  distinguished  names  who  have  borne  their  early 
commissions  from  Illinois,  1  refer,  with  special  pride,  to  the  character  and  price 
less  services  to  the  country  of  ULYSSES  S.  GRANT.  In  April,  1861,  he  tendered 
his  personal  services  to  me,  saying,  "  that  he  had  been  the  recipient  of  a  military 
education  at  West  Point,  and  that  now,  when  the  country  was  involved  in  a  war 
for  its  preservation  and  safety,  he  thought  it  his  duty  to  offer  his  services  in  de 
fense  of  the  union,  and  that  he  would  esteem  it  a  privilege  to  be  assigned  to  any 
position  where  he  eould  be  useful."  The  plain,  straightforward  demeanor  of  the 
man,  and  the  modesty  and  earnestness  which  characterized  his  offer  of  assistance, 
at  once  awakened  a  lively  interest  in  him,  and  impressed  me  with  a  desire  to  se 
cure  his  counsel  for  the  benefit  of  volunteer  organizations  then  forming  for  gov 
ernment  service.  At  first,  I  assigned  him  a  desk  in  the  executive  office;  and  his 
familiarity  with  military  organization  and  regulations  made  him  an  invaluable 
assistant  in  my  own  and  the  office  of  the  adjutant-general.  Soon  his  admirable 
qualities  as  a  military  commander  became  apparent,  and  I  assigned  him  to  com 
mand  of  the  camps  of  organization  at  "  Camp  Yates,"  Springfield,  "  Camp  Grant," 
Mattoon,  and  "  Camp  Douglas,"  at  Anna,  Union  county,  at  which  the  7th,  8th,  9th, 
10th,  llth,  12th,  18th,  19th  and  21st  regiments  of  Illinois  volunteers,  raised  under 
the  call  of  the  president,  of  the  15th  of  April,  and  under  the  "ten  regiment  bill," 
of  the  extraordinary  session  of  the  legislature,  convened  April  23d,  1861,  were 
.rendezvoused.  His  employment  had  special  reference  to  the  organization  nnd 
muster  of  these  forces — the  first  six  into  United  States,  and  the  last  three  into 


IN  ILLINOIS.  241 

the  state  service.  This  was  accomplished  about  May  10,  1861,  at  which  time  he 
left  the  state  for  a  brief  period,  on  a  visit  to  his  father,  at  Covington,  Kentucky. 

The  21st  regiment  of  Illinois  volunteers,  raised  in  Macon,  Cumberland,  Piatt, 
Douglas,  Moultrie,  Edgar,  Clay,  Clark,  Crawford  and  Jasper  counties,  for  thirty- 
day  state  service,  organized  at  the  camp  at  Mattoon,  preparatory  to  three  years' 
service  for  the  government,  had  become  very  much  demoralized,  under  the  thirty 
days'  experiment,  and  doubts  arose  in  relation  to  their  acceptance  for  a  longer 
period.  I  was  much  perplexed  to  find  an  efficient  and  experienced  officer  to  take 
command  of  the  regiment  and  take  it  into  the  three  years  service.  1  ordered  the 
regiment  to  Camp  Yates,  and  after  consulting  Hon.  Josse  K.  Dubois,  who  had 
many  friends  in  the  regiment,  and  Col.  John  &  Loomis,  assistant  adjutant-general, 
who  was  at  the  time  in  charge  of  the  adjutant-general's  office,  and  on  terms  of 
personal  intimacy  with  Grant,  I  decided  to  offer  the  command  to  him,  and  accord 
ing  telegraphed  Captain  Grant,  at  Covington,  Kentucky,  tendering  him  the  colo 
nelcy.  He  immediately  reported,  accepting  the  commission,  taking  rank  as  colo 
nel  of  that  regiment  from,  the  15th  day  of  June,  1861.  Thirty  days  previous  to 
that  time  the  regiment  numbered  over  one  thousand  men,  but  in  consequence  of 
laxity  in  discipline  of  the  commanding  officer,  and  other  discouraging  obstacles 
connected  with  the  acceptance  of  troops  at  that  time,  but  six  hundred  and  three 
men  were  found  willing  to  enter  the  three  years'  service  In  less  than  ten  days, 
Colonel  Grant  filled  the  regiment  to  the  maximum  standard,  and  brought  it  to  a 
state  of  discipline  seldom  attained  in  the  volunteer  service,  in  so  short  a  time. 
His  was  the  only  regiment  that  left  the  camp  of  organization  on  foot.  He  marched 
from  Springfield  to  the  Illinois  river,  but,  in  an  emergency  requiring  troops  to 
operate  against  Missouri  rebels,  the  regiment  was  transported  by  rail  to  Quincy, 
and  Colonel  Grant  was  assigned  to  command  for  the  protection  of  the  Quiocy  and 
Palmyra,  and  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  railroads.  He  soon  distinguished  himself 
as  a  regimental  commander  in  the  field,  and  his  increased  rank  was  recognized 
by  his  friends  in  Springfield,  and  his  promotion  insisted  upon,  before  his  merits 
and  services  were  fairly  understood  at  Washington.  His  promotion  was  made 
upon  the  ground  of  his  military  education,  fifteen  years'  service  as  a  lieutenant 
and  captain  in  the  regular  army,  (during  which  time  he  was  distinguished  in  the 
Mexican  war,)  his  great  success  in  organizing  and  disciplining  his  regiment,  and 
for  his  energetic  and  vigorous  prosecution  of  the  campaign  in  north  Missouri, 
and  the  earnestness  with  which  he  entered  into  the  great  work  of  waging  war 
against  the  traitorous  enemies  of  his  country.  His  first  great  battle  was  at  Bel- 
mont, — an  engagement  which  became  necessary  to  protect  our  south  western  army 
in  Missouri  from  overwhelming  forces  being  rapidly  consolidated  against  it  from 
Arkansas,  Tennessee  and  Columbus,  Kentucky.  The  struggle  was  a  desperate 
one,  but  the  tenacity  and  soldierly  qualities  of  Grant  and  his  invincible  little 
army,  gave  us  the  first  practical  victory  in  the  west.  The  balance  of  his  shining 
record  is  indelibly  written  in  the  history  of  Henry,  Donelson,  Shiloh,  Corinth, 
Vicksburg,  Chattanooga,  the  Wilderness,  siege  of  Richmond,  and  the  intricate 
and  difficult  command  as  lieutenant-general  of  the  armies  of  the  union — written 
in  the  blood  and  sacrifices  of  the  heroic  braves  who  have  fallen,  following  him  to 
glorious  victory — written  upon  the  hearts  and  memories  of  the  loyal  millions  who 
are  at  the  hearth-stones  of  our  gallant  and  unconquerable  "  boys  in  blue."  The 
impress  of  his  genius  stamps  our  armies,  from  one  end  of  the  republic  to  the 
other ;  and  the  secret  of  his  success  in  executing  his  plans,  is  in  the  love,  enthu 
siasm  and  confidence  he  inspires  in  the  soldier  in  the  ranks,  the  harmony  and  re 
spect  for  and  deference  to  the  wishes  and  commands  of  the  president,  and  his 
sympathy  with  the  government  in  its  war  policy. 

As  evidence  of  the  materials  of  the  State  of  Illinois  for  war  purposes,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  war,  and  a  pleasing  incident  of  Grant's  career,  1  refer  to  an  ar 
ticle  in  a  Vicksburg  paper,  the  Weekly  Sun,  of  May  13,  1861,  which  ridicules  our 
enfeebled  and  unprepared  condition,  and  says:  "An  official  report  made  to  Gov. 
Yates,  of  Illinois,  by  one  Captain  Grant,  says  that  after  examining  all  the  state 
armories  he  finds  the  muskets  amount  to  just  nine  hundred  and  four,  and  of 
them  only  sixty  in  serviceable  condition."  Now,  the  name  of  that  man,  who  was 
looking  up  the  rusty  muskets  in  Illinois,  is  glory-crowned  with  shining  victories, 


342  TIMES  OF  THE  KEBELLION 

and  will  fill  thousands  of  history's  brightest  pages  to  the  end  of  time.  I  know 
well  the  secret  of  his  power,  for,  afterward,  when  J  saw  him  at  headquarters, 
upon  the  march,  and  on  the  battle-field,  in  his  plain,  thread-bare  uniform,  modest 
in  his  deportment,  careful  of  the  wants  of  the  humblest  soldier,  personally  in 
specting  all  the  dispositions  and  divisions  of  his  army,  calm  and  courageous 
amid  the  most  destructive  fire  of  the  enemy,  it  was  evident  that  he  had  the  confi 
dence  of  every  man,  from  the  highest  officer  down  to  the  humblest  drummer  boy 
in  his  whole  command.  His  generalship  rivals  that  of  Alexander  and  Napoleon, 
and  his  armies  eclipse  those  of  Greece  and  Rome,  in  their  proudest  days  of  impe 
rial  grandeur.  He  is  a  gift  of  the  Almighty  Father  to  the  nation,  in  its  extremity, 
and  he  has  won  his  way  to  the  exalted  position  he  occupies  through  his  own  great 
perseverance,  skill  and  indomitable  bravery,  and  it  is  inexcusably  vain  for  any 
man  to  claim  that  he  has  made  Grant,  or  that  he  has  given  Grant  to  the  country, 
or  that  he  can  control  his  great  genius  and  deeds  for  the  private  ends  of  selfish 
and  corrupt  political  ambition. 

With  regard  to  our  future  course,  T  am  here  to-day  to  say  in  behalf  of  the  loyal 
millions  of  Illinois,  and  I  trust  this  general  assembly  is  prepared  to  say,  and  to 
throw  into  the  face  of  Jeff.  Davis  and  of  his  minions,  and  of  all  traitors  who  would 
destroy  our  union,  the  determined  response  that  in  the  booming  thunders  of  Far- 
ragut's  cannon,  in  the  terrible  onslaught  of  Sherman's  legions,  in  the  flaming 
sabers  of  Sheridan's  cavalry,  and  in  the  red  battle  glare  of  Grant's  artillery,  our 
voice  is  still  for  war — war  to  the  knife — all  the  dread  enginery  of  war  — persist 
ent,  unrelenting,  stupendous,  exterminating  war,  till  the  last  rebel  shall  lay  down 
his  arms,  and  our  flag  float  in  triumph  over  the  land. 

And  when  our  own  Illinois,  upon  some  national  holiday,  shall  meet  all  our  re 
turning  soldiers,  as  they  shall  pass  in  serried  ranks,  with  their  old  battle  scarred 
banners  and  shivered  cannons,  and  rusty  bayonets  and  sabers — with  rebel  flags 
and  rebel  trophies  of  every  kind — at  this  mighty  triumphal  procession,  surpassing 
the  proudest  festivals  of  ancient  Rome  and  Greece,  in  their  palmiest  days,  then 
the  loud  plaudits  of  a  grateful  people  will  go  up :  All  hail  to  the  veterans  who 
have  given  our  flag  to  the  God  of  storms,  the  battle  and  the  breeze,  and  conse 
crated  our  country  afresh  to  union,  liberty  and  humanity. 

The  spirit  of  the  people  may  be  learned  from  the  action  of  some  of 
its  religious  bodies.  The  Synod  of  Illinois  at  its  meeting  in  Jackson 
ville,  passed,  unanimously,  a  series  of  resolutions,  of  which  the  follow 
ing  is  the  last. 

"  And,  finally,  we  urge  all  the  members  of  our  churches  to  sustain  with  a  generous  con 
fidence  the  government  and  all  who  do  its  biddings,  and  to  cherish  such  a  view  of  the  mo 
mentous  importance  and  sacredness  of  our  cause  that  they  will  bear  with  cheerfulness  all 
the  sacrifices  which  the  war  imposes  ;  and  whether  it  be  long  or  short,  cheerfully  pour  out, 
if  needs  be,  the  last  ounce  of  gold,  and  the  last  drop  of  blood,  to  bring  the  contest  to  a  right 
eous  issue." 

How,  as  the  war  progressed,  sympathy  with  the  south  was  met,  is 
well-illustrated  by  the  following  account  of  a  scene  which  took  place 
in  the  state  legislature.  The  writer  says  : 

A  great  sensation  was  created  by  a  speech  by  Mr.  FUNK,  one  of  the  richest 
farmers  in  the  state,  a  man  who  pays  over  $3,000  per  annum  taxes  toward  the 
support  of  the  government  The  lobby  and  gallery  were  crowded  with  spectators. 
Mr.  Funk  rose  to  object  to  trifling  resolutions,  which  had  been  introduced  by  the 
democrats  to  kill  time  and  stave  off  a  vote  upon  the  appropriations  for  the  support 
of  the  state  government.  He  said  : 

Mr.  Speaker,  I  can  sit  in  my  seat  no  longer  and  see  such  by-play  going  on. 
These  men  are  trifling  with  the  best  interests  of  the  country.  They  should  have 
asses'  ears  to  set  off  their  heads,  or  they  are  traitors  or  secessionists  at  heart. 

1  say  that  there  are  traitors  and  secessionists  at  heart  in  this  senate.  Their 
actions  prove  it.  Their  speeches  prove  it.  Their  gibes  and  laughter  and  cheers 
here,  nightly,  when  their  speakers  get  up  to  denounce  the  war  and  the  adminis 
tration,  prove  it. 


IN  ILLINOS.  343 

I  can  sit  here  no  longer  and  not  tell  these  traitors  what  I  think  of  them.  And 
while  so  telling  them,  I  am  responsible,  myself,  for  what  1  say.  1  stand  upon  my 
own  bottom.  I  am  ready  to  meet  any  man  on  this  floor  in  any  manner  from  a 
pin's  point  to  the  mouth  of  a  cannon  upon  this  charge  against  these  traitors.  I 
am  an  old  man  of  sixty-five,  I  came  to  Illinois  a  poor  boy,  I  have  made  a  little 
something  for  myself  and  family.  I  pay  $3,000  a  year  taxes.  I  am  willing  to 
pay  $6,000,  aye,  $12,000,  [the  old  gentleman  striking  the  desk  with  a  blow  that 
would  knock  down  a  bullock,  and  causing  the  inkstand  to  fly  in  the  air,]  aye,  L 
am  willing  to  pay  my  whole  fortune,  and  then  give  my  life  to  save  my  country 
from  these  traitors  that  are  seeking  to  destroy  it. 

Mr.  Speaker,  you  must  please  excuse  me,  I  could  not  sit  longer  in  my  seat  and 
calmly  listen  to  these  traitors.  My  heart,  that  feels  for  my  poor  country,  would 
not  let  me.  My  heart,  that  cries  out  for  the  lives  of  our  brave  volunteers  in  the 
field,  that  these  traitors  at  home  are  destroying  by  thousands,  would  not  let  me. 
Yes,  these  traitors  and  villains  in  this  senate  [striking  his  clenched  fist  on  the 
desk  with  a  blow  that  made  the  senate  ring  again],  are  killing  my  neighbors  boys 
now  fighting  in  the  field.  I  dare  to  say  this  to  these  traitors  right  here,  and  I  am 
responsible  for  what  I  say  to  any  one  or  all  of  them.  Let  them  come  on  now, 
right  here.  I  ain  sixty-five  years  old,  and  I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  risk  my 
life  right  here,  on  this  floor,  for  my  country.  [Mr.  Funk's  seat  is  near  the  lobby 
railing,  and  a  crowd  collected  around  him,  evidently  with  the  intention  of  pro 
tecting  him  from  violence,  if  necessary.  The  last  announcement  was  received 
with  great  cheering,  and  I  saw  many  an  eye  flash,  and  many  a  countenance  grow 
radiant  with  the  light  of  defiance.] 

These  men  sneered  at  Col.  Mack  a  few  days  since.  He  is  a  small  man.  But  I 
am  a  large  man.  I  am  ready  to  meet  any  of  them,  in  place  of  Col.  Mack.  I  am 
large  enough  for  them,  and  I  hold  myself  ready  for  them  now  and  at  any  time. 

Mr.  Speaker,  these  traitors  on  this  floor  should  be  provided  with  hempen  collars. 
They  deserve  them.  They  deserve  hanging,  1  say,  [raising  his  voice  and  violently 
striking  the  desk,]  the  country  would  be  the  better  for  swinging  them  up.  I  go 
for  hanging  them,  and  I  dare  to  tell  them  so,  right  here  to  their  traitorous  faces. 
Traitors  should  be  hung.  It  would  be  the  salvation  of  the  country  to  hang  them. 
For  that  reason  I  must  rejoice  at  it.  Mr.  Speaker,  I  beg  pardon  of  the  gentlemen 
in  this  senate  who  are  not  traitors,  but  true,  loyal  men,  for  what  I  have  said.  1 
only  intend  it  and  mean  it  for  secessionists  at  heart.  They  are  here  in  this  sen 
ate.  I  see  them  gibe,  and  smirk,  and  grin  at  the  true  union  man.  Must  1  defy 
them  ?  I  stand  here  ready  for  them,  and  dare  them  to  come  on.  What  man, 
with  the  heart  of  a  patriot,  could  stand  this  treason  any  longer?  I  have  stood  it 
long  enough.  I  will  stand  it  no  more.  I  denounce  these  men  and  their  aiders 
and  abettors  as  rank  traitors  and  secessionists.  Hell  itself  could  not  spew  out  a 
more  traitorous  crew  than  some  of  the  men  that  disgrace  this  legislature,  this 
state,  and  this  country.  For  myself,  1  protest  against  and  denounce  their  treason 
able  acts.  1  have  voted  against  their  measures ;  I  will  do  so  to  the  end.  1  will 
denounce  them  as  long  as  God  gives  me  breath ;  and  1  am  ready  to  meet  the  trai 
tors  themselves  here  or  anywhere,  and  fight  them  to  the  death. 

I  said  I  paid  $3,000  a  year  taxes.  1  do  not  say  it  to  brag  of  it.  It  is  my  duty, 
yes,  Mr.  Speaker,  my  privilege,  to  do  it.  But  some  of  these  traitors  here,  who  are 
working  night  and  day  to  put  their  miserable  little  bills  and  claims  through  the 
legislature  to  take  money  out  of  the  pockets  of  the  people,  are  talking  about  high 
taxes.  They  are  hypocrites  as  well  as  traitors.  1  heard  some  of  them  talking 
about  high  taxes  in  this  way,  who  do  not  pay  five  dollars  to  the  support  of  the 
government.  I  denounce  them  as  hypocrites  as  well  as  traitors. 

The  reason  they  pretend  to  be  afraid  of  high  taxes  is  that  they  do  not  want  to 
vote  money  for  the  relief  of  the  soldiers.  They  want  to  embarrass  the  govern 
ment  and  stop  the  war.  They  want  to  aid  the  secessionists  to  conquer  our  boys 
in  the  field.  They  care  about  high  taxes !  They  are  picayune  men  any  how,  and 
pay  no  taxes  at  all,  and  never  did,  and  never  hope  or  expect  to.  This  is  an  excuse 
of  traitors. 

Mr.  Speaker,  excuse  me.  I  feel  for  my  country,  in  this  her  hour  of  danger, 
from  the  tips  of  my  toes  to  the  ends  of  my  hair.  That  is  the  reason  I  speak  as  I 


344  TIMES  OP  THE  REBELLION 

do.  I  can  not  help  it.  I  am  bound  to  tell  these  men,  to  their  teeth,  what  they 
are,  and  what  the  people,  the  true,  loyal  people,  think  of  them.  [Tremendous 
cheering.  The  speaker  rapped  upon  his  desk,  apparently  to  stop  it,  but  really  to 
add  to  its  volume,  for  I  could  see  by  his  flushed  cheek  and  flashing  eye  that  his 
heart  was  with  the  brave  and  loyal  old  gentleman.] 

Mr.  Speaker:  I  have  said  my  say;  I  am  no  speaker.  This  is  the  only  speech  I 
have  made,  and  I  do  not  know  that  it  deserves  to  be  called  a  speech.  I  could  not 
sit  still  any  longer  and  see  these  scoundrels  and  traitors  work  out  their  hellish 
schemes  to  destroy  the  union.  They  have  my  sentiments  ;  let  them  one  and  all 
make  the  most  of  them.  I  am  ready  to  back  up  all  I  say,  and  I  repeat  it,  to  meet 
these  traitors  in  any  manner  they  may  choose,  from  a  pin's  point  to  the  mouth  of 
a  cannon.  [Tremendous  applause,  during  which  the  old  gentleman  sat  down,  af 
ter  he  had  given  the  desk  a  parting  whack,  which  sounded  loud  above  the  din  of 
cheers  and  clapping  of  hands.] 

I  never  before  witnessed  so  much  excitement  in  an  assembly.  Mr.  FUNK  spoke 
with  a  force  of  natural  eloquence,  with  a  conviction  and  truthfulness,  with  a  fer 
vor  and  pathos  which  wrought  up  the  galleries  and  even  members  on  the  floor  to 
the  highest  pitch  of  excitement.  His  voice  was  he? rd  in  the  stores  that  surround 
the  square,  and  the  people  came  flocking  in- from  all  quarters.  In  five  minutes,  he 
had  an  audience  that  packed  the  hall  to  its  utmost  capacity.  After  he  had  con 
cluded,  the  republican  members  and  spectators  rushed  up  and  took  him  by  the 
hand  to  congratulate  him. 

In  the  month  of  August,  1863,  a  riot  took  place  at  Danville,  the  de 
tails  of  which  were  thus  given  at  the  time  : 

The  difficulty  grew  out  of  a  long-standing  hostility,  fed  and  aggravated  by  the 
copperhead  leaders  of  the  neighborhood,  which  sooner  or  later  would  have  pro 
duced,  as  it  has  produced  in  many  places  in  this  state,  collisions,  and  riots,  but 
the  immediate  cause  seems  to  have  been  a  fuss  between  a  Colonel  Hawkins,  of 
Tennessee,  and  a  copperhead,  about  a  butternut  emblem  worn  by  the  latter  on 
Friday.  A  melee  followed  in  which  Colonel  Guinup,  who  was  a  spectator  and 
took  no  part,  was  hit  with  a  large  stone  by  a  copperhead,  and  repaid  the  compli 
ment  by  whipping  his  assailant  badly.  Here  the  disturbance  ended,  and  might 
have  staid  ended,  if  the  copperheads  had  not  been  bent  on  war.  On  Saturday, 
Hawkins  made  a  speech,  in  pursuance  of  an  appointment  previous  to  the  fight 
The  union  men,  desirous  to  avoid  all  chances  of  collision,  urged  him  not  to  speak, 
but  a  good  many  people  having  come  into  town  from  the  country  to  hear  him,  he 
spoke.  There  was  no  disturbance,  and  nothing  to  make  it,  but  the  copperheads 
prepared  for  battle.  The  Courier  says  : 

Saturday  and  Sunday  passed  without  any  open  demonstration,  though  there 
were  evidences  on  every  hand  of  "  something  going  on  "  among  the  copperheads. 
Horsemen  came  clattering  into  town  after  midnight,  signal  shots  were  heard  at 
intervals  until  after  daylight,  in  the  direction  of  the  mines.  The  union  men  were  cool 
and  collected.  They  had  been  so  clearly  in  the  right  and  had  sacrificed  so  much 
for  the  sake  of  peace,  that  forbearance  had  ceased  to  be  a  virtue,  and  maintain 
ing  the  defensive,  they  were  prepared  for  anything  that  might  transpire.  On  Mon 
day  morning,  before  daylight,  the  signal  guns  were  more  frequent.,  and  lights  were 
observed  in  the  houses  of  well-known  copperheads  residing  in  the  town.  Before 
ten  o'clock,  rumors  were  rife  of  a  grand  rally  of  the  Knights  of  the  Golden  Cir 
cle  a  few  miles  distant,  and,  about  noon,  they  came  marching  into  town  in  regu 
lar  line  of  battle,  armed  with  s-hot-guns,  rifles,  picks,  axes,  shovels,  spades,  clubs, 
corn-cutters,  hatchets,  and  every  conceivable  weapon.  Three  fourths  of  the  mot 
ley  army  were  coal-diggers.  They  marched  to  the  public-square.  The  union 
men,  in  order  to  gain  time,  entered  into  a  protracted  negotiation,  in  which  they 
agreed  to  deliver  up  certain  leading  unionists,  who  were  especially  obnoxious  to 
the  copperheads.  This,  of  course,  was  a  ruse  to  gain  time,  and  the  leading  rebels 
suspecting  as  much,  precipitated  a  collision. 

It  was  not  positively  known  which  fired  the  first  shot,  they  began  and  followed 
in  such  quick  succession.  Payne,  the  original  cause  of  the  difficulty,  fell,  pierced 
through  the  heart  at  the  first  discharge.  The  copperheads  fired  wildly  and  at 


IN  ILLINOIS. 


345 


random,  while  the  union  men  took  deliberate  aim  and  made  up  in  accuracy  what 
they  lacked  in  numbers.  Myers,  another  copperhead,  was  shot  through  the  heart, 
and  ran  about  a  hundred  yards,  when  he  expired.  An  Irishman,  whose  name  our 
informant  did  not  learn,  was  also  killed.  Others  were  wounded.  Shortly  after 
Payne  received  his  quietus,  his  brother,  who  is  the  sheriff  of  the  county  and  a 
virulent  copperhead,  was  wounded  in  the  arm.  The  provost  marshal  attempted  to 
summon  a  posse  to  quell  the  disturbance.  Wm.  Lamb,  an  old  and  highly  esteemed 
citizen  and  a  leading  merchant,  was  summoned  among  others.  He  was  armed  for 
the  defense  of  his  family  and  property  against  the  raid  which  had  been  threat 
ened  for  two  days,  but,  up  to  this  moment,  had  taken  no  part  He  advanced  to 
ward  the  curbstone,  when  a  well-known  copperhead,  whose  name  we  have  forgot 
ten,  took  deliberate  aim  and  shot  him  through  the  heart.  He  fell  and  instantly 
expired.  Here  we  record  an  act  of  atrocity  akin  to  the  inhuman  butchery  of 
Colonel  O'Brien,  by  a  brutal  mob  in  the  streets  of  New  York,  but  without  another 
parallel  outside  of  rebeldom.  While  he  lay  motionless  and  dead  upon  the  ground, 
he  was  shot  a  second  time,  and,  after  this,  another  copperhead  came  up  with  a 
huge  club  and  crushed  the  head  of  the  corpse  by  a  tremendous  blow. 

Colonel  Hawkins  had  a  finger  shot  off.  Colonel  Guinup  seemed  to  bear  a 
charmed  life.  He  was  in  the  thickest  of  the  fight,  but  escaped  with  a  slight 
scratch  from  a  half-spent  ball.  A  number  were  wounded,  but  none  mortally,  be 
yond  those  abovementioned.  The  union  men  remained  in  possession  of  the  town, 
and  the  copperheads  rallied  at  their  place  of  rendezvous  outside  of  the  corpora 
tion.  Meanwhile,  Captain  Park,  provost  marshal  of  this  district,  had  been  sum 
moned  by  telegraph  to  send  a  military  force  to  Danville,  and  left  about  eight 
o'clock,  with  one  hundred  men  of  the  104th,  under  command  of  Captain  Dutch,  a 
veteran  soldier.  Upon  his  arrival,  everything  was  reported  quiet.  The  copper 
heads  were  still  in  camp,  however,  and  the  union  men,  exasperated  by  the  mur 
der  of  Mr.  Lamb  and  the  brutal  outrages  to  which  his  dead  body  had  been  ex 
posed,  were  determined  upon  an  attack.  This  was  the  situation  at  daylight,  and 
we  have  watched  every  click  of  the  telegraph  from  the  west  to-day  with  intense 
interest.  But,  happily  for  all  concerned,  better  counsels  have  prevailed,  and  a 
dispatch  reports  all  quiet  and  the  excitement  subsiding. 

How  Gov.  Yates  regarded  those  guilty  of  acts  of  hostility  against 
the  government  may  be  learned  from  the  following  letter. 

STATE  OP  ILLINOIS,  EXECUTIVE  DEPARTMENT,  ) 
SPRINGFIELD,  July  15,  1862.     J 
John  W.  Bosworth,  0*kaloosa,  111. : 

DEAR  SIR  :  I  have  just  received  yours  of  the  10th  of  July,  in  which  you  say  that  the 
pole  from  which  floated  the  stars  and  stripes  on  the  Fourth  of  July,  was  cut  down  by  se 
cessionists,  and  that  at  a  picnic  which  you  are  to  have,  it  is  threatened  that  the  flag  shall 
be  taken  down,  and  you  ask  me  whether  you  would  be  justifiable  in  defending  the  flag 
with  fire-arms  ? 

I  am  astonished  at  this  question.  As  much  so  as  if  you  were  to  ask  me  whether  you 
would  have  a  right  to  defend  your  property  against  robbers  or  your  life  against  murderers. 

You  ask  me  what  you  shall  do  ?  I  reply,  do  not  raise  the  American  flag  merely  to  pro 
voke  your  secession  neighbors — do  not  be  on  the  aggressive — but  whenever  you  raise  it  on 
your  own  soil,  or  on  the  public  property  of  the  state  or  county,  or  at  any  public  celebra 
tion,  from  honest  love  to  that  flag,  and  patriotic  devotion  to  the  country  which  it  symboli 
zes,  and  any  traitor  dares  to  lay  his  unhallowed  hand  upon  it  to  tear  it  down,  then,  1  say,  shoot 
him  down  as  you  would  a  dog,  and  J  will  pardon  you  for  the  offense. 

RICHARD  YATES,  Governor. 

Another  eminent  son  of  Illinois,  Gen.  JOHN  A.  LOGAN,  just  from  the 
conquest  of  Yicksburg,  in  which  he  bore  a  distinguished  part,  ad 
dressed  the  people  of  his  state  in  words  of  great  power  and  feeling. 
On  one  of  these  occasions,  he  said : 

Now,  fellow-citizens,  I  have  detained  you  on  all  these  points  at  as  great  length 
as  I  desire.  This  lengthy  speaking  in  the  open  air  will,  I  am  afraid,  do  me  a 
great  deal  of  injury,  from  the  way  1  feel.  But  I  want  to  say  a  few  words  to  you 
in  reference  to  our  soldiers.  I  have  no  eulogies  to  pass,  so  far  as  I  am  concerned, 


346  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

upon  their  conduct,  more  than  what  that  conduct  shows  itself  entitled  to.  The 
country  knows  it ;  so  far  as  the  conduct  of  the  soldiers  of  the  United  States  is 
concerned,  they  know  all  about  it.  But  I  want  to  appeal  to  you  in  behalf  of  these 
men,  that  while  they  are  traveling  and  marching  about  through  the  rebellious 
states  almost  naked,  without  food  sometimes,  in  the  burning  sun  and  in  the  drench 
ing  storm,  in  the  night  and  in  the  day — while  they  are  sleeping  upon  the  cold, 
wet  ground,  while  they  are  suffering  all  the  toils  and  privations  of  camp  life  such 
as  no  other  soldiers  ever  endured  before,  while  they  are  doing  that  which  they 
honestly  believe  to  be  their  duty  to  themselves  and  their  country,  and  to  you  aa 
their  countrymen,  I  want  you,  as  citizens  of  a  loyal  country,  as  citizens  of  the 
noble  State  of  Illinois,  to,  at  least,  extend  to  them  your  sympathy,  to,  at  least,  feel 
in  common  with  them  that  their  cause  is  just,  to,  at  least,  think,  if  you  can  not 
alleviate  their  sufferings  and  lessen  their  privations  in  the  field,  that  your  feelings 
are  with  them.  Say  to  them,  "  go  on,  boys,  God  bless  you,"  and  let  the  brave  fel 
lows  know  how  you  feel  toward  them. 

Let  us  have  no  more  letters  written  from  home  to  the  boys  who  are  in  the  field, 
grumbling  and  growling,  and  telling  them  you  wish  the  unholy  war  had  never  be 
gun,  and  that  you  wish  they  were  at  home,  and  all  that  sort  of  thing;  for  you  only 
encourage  them  to  desert  the  cause  of  their  country.  Let  us  have  no  more  letters 
written  to  the  army  from  parents,  telling  their  children  that  if  they  come  home, 
to  come  by  a  certain  man's  house,  and  he  will  tell  them  the  best  way  to  get  where 
they  can  meet  other  deserters,  and  be  protected.  Let  us  have  no  more  of  this. 
Write  to  them  in  this  way :  say  to  them,  my  son,  as  long  as  there  is  an  armed 
rebel  in  the  government,  as  long  as  there  is  a  traitor  in  arms  against  the  United 
States,  be  true  to  the  flag  of  your  country ;  be  true  to  the  .oath  you  took  when  you 
entered  the  army.  Do  your  duty,  and  when  your  country  needs  you  no  longer  in 
the  field,  come  home,  and  we  will  welcome  you  with  outstretched  arms.  If  you 
die,  my  brave  son,  be  buried  as  a  faithful  soldier,  whose  last  act  was  in  discharge  of 
a  patriot's  duty.  Let  history  render  your  name  immortal  as  one  of  the  gallant 
men  who  died  that  your  country  might  live.  Let  your  country  be  proud  to  in 
scribe  your  name  upon  its  banners  as  one  of  the  heroic  bead.  Let  your  prayer  be 
that  the  American  flag  may  be  your  winding  sheet,  while  your  spirit  wings  its 
way  to  the  haven  of  rest  reserved  for  the  brave  soldiers  of  the  American  union. 

Talk  that  way  to  your  boys,  to  your  husbands,  to  your  friends,  and  you  will 
hear  such  a  shout  of  joy  come  up  from  the  camps  in  the  land  of  the  foe,  as  will 
do  your  hearts  good.  Let  the  poor  soldiers  feel  that  in  the  performance  of  their 
arduous  and  fatiguing  duties,  they  have  comfort  at  home,  as  well  as  cheers  in  the 
army.  Let  men  reflect  that  the  graves  of  these  many  boys — some  seven  or  eight 
thousand — that  we  lost  in  our  campaign  this  summer,  who  were  fighting  for  their 
country — only  remember  that  their  gaping  wounds,  while  they  lay  weltering  in 
their  gore,  like  empty  mouths,  spoke  out  in  thunder  tones  to  their  friends  at  home, 
"  Dear  friend  and  companion  of  mine,  here,  look  at  this  bleeding  gash  that  has 
been  made  by  traitorous  hands.  Will  you  not  avenge  my  blood  ?  Will  you  not 
unfurl  the  banner  of  your  country  and  lift  a  single  joyous  anthem  to  the  tune  of 
this  union,  while  the  shouts  of  victory  are  going  up  from  each  and  every  battle 
field  in  the  land  ?  Will  you  not  avenge  the  blood  of  your  brothers  or  your  sons, 
killed  by  men  who  are  attempting  to  destroy  our  national  existence  ?  Swear 
that  you  will — that  while  there  is  a  remnant  of  that  battle-torn  flag  left,  you  will 
strike  such  blows  as  will  assist  my  country  in  ridding  the  land  of  all  its  foes." 

You,  citizens  of  Perry  and  Franklin  counties,  who  are  assembled  here  to-day, 
let  the  words  of  dying  Dollins,  and  a  dying  Reese  speak  to  you.  Let  the  last 
words  of  the  noble  boys  who  fell  as  brave  soldiers  in  the  ranks,  speak  in  thunder 
tones  to  you,  in  reference  to  your  conduct  in  future.  Listen  to  the  words  of  Col. 
Dollins,  in  the  last  agonies  of  death.  He  was  a  brave,  true  patriot,  as  ever  bled 
for  his  country's  cause.  When  he  was  pierced  by  the  leaden  messenger  of  death, 
he  sank  back,  and  said  he,  "  Boys,  go  on,  let  me  see  the  flag  of  my  country  planted 
on  the  enemy's  ramparts."  The  brave  Reese  said :  "  Tell  Logan  to  tell  the  peo 
ple  at  home  that  1  died  an  honest  man  and  a  brave  soldier."  So  help  me  God,  I 
will  tell  them  as  long  as  I  live,  that  he  died  an  honest  man  and  a  brave  soldier. 
My  countrymen,  do  not  the  words  of  such  men  as  that  speak  to  you  with  a  voiqe 


IN  ILLINOIS.  347 

that  can  not  be  misunderstood  ?  They  died  because  of  traitorous  hands.  They 
died  because  of  a  rebellion  against  the  best  government  on  earth.  They  died  be 
cause  they  were  patriots  and  loved  their  country  and  their  friends— loved  peace, 
harmony  and  good  will.  They  died  for  that  reason  only;  and  when  in  their 
graves,  and  a  little  board  is  put  at  their  heads  to  mark  the  spot  were  they  sleep 
the  sleep  of  the  fallen  brave,  you  find  inscribed  upon  it:  This  man  died  at  the  bat 
tle  of  so-and-so ;  a  loyal  man,  a  true,  union  soldier,  fighting  under  the  flag  of  his 
country.  Can  Jeff.  Davis  have  such  a  history  written  on  the  head-board  of  his 
grave  ?  Can  it  be  said,  he  died  a  patriot  and  a  lover  of  his  country  ?  No.  But, 
in  a  few  brief  words,  his  history  may  be  written  on  the  head-board  that  will  mark 
the  grave  where  he  will  lie — A  traitor  sleeps  here !  This  is  the  difference  that 
there  is  between  a  patriot  and  the  men  who  are  at  war  against  the  government. 

If  you  could  only  have  seen  the  daring  deeds  performed  by  some  of  your  sons 
and  friends,  you  would  never  be  heard  again  to  utter  a  sentence  against  the  cause 
they  are  engaged  in.  It  would  not  do  for  me  to  attempt  to  describe  them.  The 
most  magnificently  grand  history  that  can  be  written  of  the  daring  deeds  of  many 
men,  is  written  on  the  flag  that  has  been  sent  to  Perry  county,  by  the  colonel  of 
the  old  31st  regiment.  It  was  planted  upon  the  bulwarks  and  ramparts  of  Vicks- 
burg.  The  staff  was  cut  down  three  times,  and  three  times  was  pot  together 
again.  One  hundred  and  sixty-three  bullet-holes  through  a  flag  is  the  grandest 
history  of  heroic  deeds  that  can  be  written  or  made  by  any  set  of  men.  Let  all 
look  at  that  flag.  These  men,  however,  have  not  excelled  others.  There  are  men 
who  have  done  just  as  daring  deeds.  In  fact,  all  have  performed  the  same  kind 
of  heroic  actions.  They  have  all  won  for  themselves  a  name  as  brave,  good,  faith 
ful  and  true  soldiers  of  the  union.  They  are  united  in  a  common  cause,  heart 
and  hand;  they  are  truly  a  band  of  brothers.  That  little  army  is  indeed  a  band 
of  brothers.  They  live  together,  they  love  one  another,  they  tight  for  one  another, 
and  they  would  die  for  one  another.  All  they  ask  on  earth  is,  that  when  they  die 
they  may  be  buried  side  by  side  one  another. 

But  there  are  many  who  object  to  the  prosecution  of  this  war.  I  hear  it  said, 
that  enough  blood  has  been  spilt  already ;  that  we  ought  to  stop  it;  that  this  war 
ought  to  cease.  I  hear  of  men  making  speeches  around  through  the  country,  and 
appealing  to  the  women  and  children  to  know  if  this  war  has  not  gone  on  long 
enough,  and  if  it  ought  not  to  be  stopped  before  any  more  blood  is  shed  ?  They 
appeal  to  the  old,  gray-headed  men,  and  they  say,  you  have  lost  your  brothers, 
your  sons,  and  grandsons.  The  soil  is  wet  with  their  blood.  It  is  a  bloody  war, 
an  unnatural  war,  hence  let  us  stop  it.  Fellow-citizens,  it  is  true  that  many  a 
brave  man  has  beeji  lost.  We  have  lost  many  a  brave  soldier.  Perry  county  has 
buried  many  of  her  cherished  sons.  On  the  soil  of  the  south  we  have  buried 
many  more,  who  there  sleep  the  sleep  that  knows  no  waking.  But  we  have  buried 
them  with  honor.  They  have  died  like  true  patriots  and  soldiers,  shouting,  "  let 
me  die  like  a  soldier  of  the  union."  I  would  rather  die  like  a  soldier  than  live 
like  a  traitor.  They  want  to  stop  the  war  to  prevent  the  further  effusion  of  blood. 
Fellow-citizens,  this  government  is  a  government  that  we  all  love  or  once  loved. 
We  love  the  people,  the  country,  the  rivers,  the  rocks,  the  trees,  every  thing  in  it. 
They  are  ours.  It  is  our  people,  our  rivers,  our  lakes,  our  shores,  our  rocks,  our 
mountains,  our  rills,  our  hollows.  It  is  our  people,  our  government — the  best  and 
brightest  that  ever  existed  on  earth,  and  before  1  would  see  this  war  stop  until 
the  government  is  restored  in  all  its  former  supremacy,  I  would  rather  see  the 
graves  of  ourselves,  our  sons  and  our  brothers,  mountains  high.  I  would  rather 
see  carcases  sufficient  to  make  bridges  across  the  widest  streams,  before  this  war 
should  stop,  until  the  true  soldier  of  the  union  could  wave  his  saber  in  his  strong 
right  hand  and  cleave  the  head  from  every  traitor  in  the  land.  This  government 
is  worth  fighting  for.  It  is  worth  generations  and  centuries  of  war.  It  is  worth 
the  lives  of  the  best  and  noblest  men  in  the  land,  and  may  they  all  be  sacrificed 
before  the  war  shall  stop  and  leave  an  armed  traitor  in  the  land.  We  will  fight 
for  this  government,  for  the  sake  of  ourselves  and  our  children.  OUR  LITTLE  ONES 

SHALL  READ  IN  HISTORY  OF  THE  MEN  WHO  STOOD  BY  THE  GOVERNMENT  IN  ITS  DARK 
AND  GLOOMY  HOURS,  AND  IT  SHALL  BE  THE  PROUD  BOAST  OF  MANY  THAT  THEIR  FATHERS 
FELL  IN  THIS  GLORIOUS  STRUGGLE  FOR  AMERICAN  LIBERTY. 


348  TIMES  OF  THE   REBELLION. 

At  the  first  great  battle  in  the  west — the  taking  of  Fort  Donelson — 
an  unusual  proportion  of  the  soldiers  of  Illinois  took  part;  and  so  con 
spicuously  that  an  eastern  poet  made  it  a  subject  of  some  congratula 
tory  verses,  under  the  caption  of 

NEW  ENGLAND'S  GREETING  TO  ILLINOIS. 
0,  gales  that  dash  th'  Atlantic's  swell 

Along  our  rocky  shores ; 
Whose  thunders  diapason  well 

New  England's  glad  hurrahs, — 

Bear  to  the  prairies  of  the  west 

The  echoes  of  our  joy ; 
The  prayer  that  springs  in  every  breast, 
"  God  bless  thee— Illinois !  " 

O,  awful  hours,  when  grape  and  shell 

Tore  through  th'  unflinching  line  ; 
"  Stand  firm,  remove  the  men  who  fell, 
Close  up  and  wait  the  sign." 

It  came  at  last :  "  Now,  lads,  the  steel !  " 

The  rushing  hosts  deploy; 
"  Charge,  boys  1 " — the  broken  traitors  reel — 
Huzza  for  Illinois ! 

In  vain  thy  rampart,  Donelson, 

The  living  torrent  bars ; 
It  leaps  the  wall,  the  fort  is  won, 

Up  go  the  stripes  and  stars. 

Thy  proudest  mother's  eyelids  fill, 
As  dares  her  gallant  boy, 

And  Plymouth  Kock  and  Bunker  Hill, 

Yearn  to  thee — Illinois. 

A  few  years  ago,  Abraham  Lincoln  left  Springfield  to  assume  duties 
the  most  responsible  that  have  ever  fallen  to  the  lot  of  man.  At  the 
depot,  upon  leaving  his  quiet  village  home,  to  assume  the  presidency 
of  this  great  nation,  he  said:  "  A  duty  devolves  upon  me  which  is  per 
haps  greater  than  that  which  has  devolved  upon  any  other  man  since 
the  days  of  Washington.  I  hope  you,  my  friends,  will  all  PRAY  that 
I  may  receive  DIVINE  ASSISTANCE,  without  which,  I  can  not  succeed ; 
but  with  which  success  is  CERTAIN."  "  Yes,  yes,  we  will  pray  for  you," 
was  the  response  of  his  townsmen,  as  bareheaded  and  in  tears,  they 
bade  him  the  farewell,  from  which  he  was  never  to  return,  except  to 
his  burial,  the  most  sublime  and  solemn  in  history.  How  he  discharged 
those  duties,  has  its  answer  in  the  hearts  of  the  American  people.  On 
the  14th  of  April,  1865,  Abraham  Lincoln  was  assassinated.  Never  was 
such  grief  known  since  the  world  was.  Never  before  had  a  human 
being  accomplished  so  great  a  good.  Such  was  the  lot  of  this  plain 
man,  whom  Illinois  gave  to  the  Nation  in  her  day  of  sore  trouble. 
Washington  is  called  the  FATHER  of  his  country ;  Lincoln  its  SAVIOR. 
As  the  memory  of  Washington  is  the  most  VENERATED,  so  the  memory 
of  Lincoln  is  the  most  BELOVED  of  mortals. 

On  an  adjoining  page  is  his  last  message  to  his  countrymen;  the  most  sublime 
document  of  the  kind  ever  written.  It  is  a  sacred  LEGACY  of  elevated  Christian 
wisdom,  of  tender,  beautiful  benevolence. 


PBESIDENT  LINCOLN'S  INAUGUBAL  ADDBESS,  MAECH4,  1865, 
FELLOW-COUNTRYMEN  : — 

At  this  second  appearing  to  take  the  oath  of  the  presidential  office,  there  is 
less  occasion  for  an  extended  address  than  there  was  at  the  first.  Then,  a  state 
ment,  somewhat  in  detail,  of  a  course  to  be  pursued,  seemed  fitting  and  proper. 
Now,  at  the  expiration  of  four  years,  during  which  public  declarations  have  been 
constantly  called  forth  on  every  point  and  phase  of  the  great  contest  which  still 
absorbs  the  attention  and  engrosses  the  energies  of  the  nation,  little  that  is  new 
could  be  presented.  The  progress  of  our  arms,  upon  which  all  else  chiefly 
depends,  is  as  well  known  to  the  public  as  to  myself;  and  it  is,  I  trust,  reason 
ably  satisfactory  and  encouraging  to  all.  With  high  hope  for  the  future,  no  pre 
diction  in  regard  to  it  is  ventured. 

On  the  occasion  corresponding  to  this  four  years  ago,  all  thoughts  were 
anxiously  directed  to  an  impending  civil  war.  All  dreaded  it — all  sought  to  avert 
it.  While  the  inaugural  address  was  being  delivered  from  this  place,  devoted  alto 
gether  to  SAVING  the  Union  without  War,  insurgent  agents  were  in  the  city  seeking 
to  DESTROY  it  without  war — seeking  to  dissolve  the  Union,  and  divide  effects,  by 
negotiation.  Both  parties  deprecated  war ;  but  one  of  them  would  MAKE  war  rather 
than  let  the  nation  survive  j  and  the  other  would  ACCEPT  war  rather  than  let  it 
perish.  And  the  war  came. 

One-eighth  of  the  whole  population  were  colored  slaves,  not  distributed  generally 
over  the  Union,  but  localized  in  the  southern  part  of  it.  These  slaves  constituted 
a  peculiar  and  powerful  interest.  All  knew  that  this  interest  was,  somehow,  the 
cause  of  the  war.  To  strengthen,  perpetuate,  and  extend  this  interest,  was  the 
object  for  which  the  insurgents  would  rend  the  Union,  even  by  war,  while  the  Gov 
ernment  claimed  no  right  to  do  more  than  to  restrict  the  territorial  enlargement  of 
it.  Neither  party  expected  for  the  war  the  magnitude  or  the  duration  which  it  has 
already  attained.  Neither  anticipated  that  the  CAUSE  of  the  conflict  might  cease 
with,  or  even  before,  the  conflict  itself  should  cease.  Each  looked  for  an  easier 
triumph,  and  a  result  less  fundamental  and  astounding.  Both  read  the  same  Bible, 
and  pray  to  the  same  God  ;  and  each  invokes  His  aid  against  the  other.  It  may 
seem  strange  that  any  men  should  dare  to  ask  a  just  God's  assistance  in  wringing 
their  bread  from  the  sweat  of  other  men'  s  faces :  but  let  us  judge  not,  that  we 
be  not  judged.  The  prayers  of  both  could  not  be  answered — that  of  neither  has 
been  answered  fully.  The  Almighty  has  His  own  purposes.  "  Wo  unto  the  world 
because  of  offenses  !  for  it  must  needs  be  that  offenses  come  ;  but  wo  to  that  man  by 
whom  the  offense  cometh."  If  we  shall  suppose  that  American  slavery  is  one  of 
those  offenses  which,  in  the  providence  of  God,  must  needs  come,  but  which,  having 
continued  through  His  appointed  time,  He  now  wills  to  remove,  and  that  He  gives 
to  both  North  and  South  this  terrible  war,  as  the  wo  due  to  those  by  whom  the 
offense  came,  shall  we  discern  therein  any  departure  from  those  divine  attributes 
which  the  believers  in  a  living  God  always  ascribe  to  Him  ?  Fondly  do  we  hope — 
fervently  do  we  pray — that  this  mighty  scourge  of  war  may  speedily  pass  away. 
Yet,  if  God  wills  that  it  continue  until  all  the  wealth  piled  by  the  bondman's  two 
hundred  and  fifty  years  of  unrequited  toil  shall  be  sunk,  and  until  every  drop  of 
blood  drawn  with  the  lash  shall  be  paid  by  another  drawn  with  the  sword,  as  was 
said  three  thousand  years  ago,  so  still  it  must  be  said  :  "  The  judgments  of  the 
Lord  are  true  and  righteous  altogether." 

With  MALICE  toward  none ;  with  CHARITY  for  all ;  with  FIRMNESS  in  the  right,  as 
God  gives  us  to  see  the  right,  let  us  strive  on  to  finish  the  work  we  are  in  ;  to  bind 
up  the  nation's  wounds ;  to  care  for  HIM  who  shall  have  BORNE  THE  BATTLE,  and 
for  HIS  WIDOW,  and  HIS  ORPHAN — to  do  all  which  may  achieve  and  cherish  a  just 
and  a  lasting  peace  among  onrselves,  and  with  all  nations. 

(349; 


MICHIGAN. 


THE  discovery  and  early  settlement  of  Michigan  is  due  to  the  French 
whose  motives  were  the  prosecution  of  the  fur  trade,  and,  incidentally,  the 

conversion  of  the  Indians.  To  pro 
mote  the  latter  object,  Father  Sagard 
reached  Lake  Huron  in  1632,  seven 
years  after  the  founding  of  Quebec, 
but  the  present  site  of  the  city  of 
Detroit  appears  to  have  been  visited 
somewhat  earlier.  The  tract  of  ter 
ritory  now  embraced  in  the  state  of 
Michigan,  derives  its  name,  it  is  said, 
from  the  Indian  word,  Michi-sawg-ye- 
gan,  the  meaning  of  which,  in  the 
Algonquin  tongue,  is,  the  Lake 
Country. 

The  Huron  tribe  of  Indians  were 
the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  Michi 
gan.  They  were  anciently  very  nu 
merous,  brave  and  powerful,  and  their 
settlements  extended  as  far  north  as 
Lake  Superior.  As  early  as  1634, 
the  French  Catholic  missionaries 
founded  a  mission  near  Lake  Huron, 
and  in  1660,  a  station  was  established  on  the  rocky  and  pine  clad  borders  of 
Lake  Superior.  In  1668,  the  Mission  at  St.  Marys  Falls  was  founded,  and 
in  1671,  Father  Marquette  gathered  a  little  flock  of  Indian  converts  at  Point 
St.  Ignatius,  on  the  main  land,  north  of  the  island  of  Mackinaw.  The  great 
body  of  the  Hurons  were  converted  to  the  profession  of  Christianity  by  the 
efforts  of  the  missionaries.  The  Iroquois,  or  Five  Nations,  made  war  upon 
them,  and  massacred  or  dispersed  most  of  their  number. 

In  1667,  Louis  XIV  sent  a  party  of  soldiers  to  this  territory,  to  protect 
the  French  fur  traders.  In  1701,  a  French  colony  left  Montreal,  and  begun 
the  settlement  of  Detroit,  which  was  a  place  of  resort  of  the  French  mis 
sionaries  at  a  much  earlier  period.  Having  established  military  posts  at  this 
and  other  places  in  Michigan,  they  soon  extended  their  commerce  westward 
of  Lake  Michigan,  to  the  Indians  on  the  Mississippi.  They  were  steadily 
opposed  by  the  Iroquois,  and  the  settlements  being  somewhat  neglected  by 
23  (353) 


AEMS  OP  MICHIGAN. 

MOTTO — Tuebor  si  quceris  peninsulam  amcenam  cir- 
cumspice — If  you  seek  a-  beautiful  peninsula,  look 
around  you. 


354  MICHIGAN. 

the  French  government,  they  never  flourished  as  colonies.  At  the  peace  of 
1763,  all  the  French  possessions  in  North  America  came  under  the  dominion 
of  Great  Britain.  On  the  expulsion  of  the  French,  the  celebrated  Indian 
chief,  Pontiac,  seized  the  occasion  to  rid  the  country  of  the  hated  whites,  by 
a  general  uprising,  and  simultaneous  attacks  on  all  the  forts  of  the  English 
on  the  lakes.  Mackinaw  was  taken  by  stratagem,  and  the  garrison  butch 
ered.  Detroit  was  besieged  some  months,  by  Pontiac,  with  600  Indians,  but 
it  held  out  until  the  Indian  allies,  becoming  weary  of  the  siege,  retired,  and 
left  Pontiac  no  choice  but  to  make  peace.  At  the  termination  of  the  revo 
lutionary  war,  by  the  peace  of  1783,  Michigan,  being  included  in  the  North 
west  Territory,  was  ceded  to  the  United  States ;  the  British,  however,  did 
not  surrender  the  post  of  Detroit  until  1796. 

Soon  after  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  by  Wayne,  with  the  Indians,  which 
was  made  in  1795,  the  settlements  upon  the  Maumee  (now  wholly  included 
in  Ohio),  upon  the  Raisin  and  Detroit  Rivers,  were  organized  under  the 
name  of  Wayne  county,  and  Detroit  was  the  seat  of  justice.  In  1796,  the 
whole  of  the  North-west  Territory  was  organized  into  five  extensive  counties, 
of  which  Wayne,  as  described  above,  was  one.  The  others,  with  their  loca 
tion,  were  as  follows :  "  Washington  county  comprised  all  that  portion  of  the 
present  state  of  Ohio  within  forty  miles  of  the  Ohio  River,  and  between  the 
Muskingum  and  the  Little  Miami;  Marietta  was  the  seat  of  justice.  Ham 
ilton  county  comprised  all  that  region  of  country  between  the  Little  and 
the  Great  Miami,  within  the  same  distance  of  the  Ohio  River;  and  Cincin 
nati  was  the  county  seat.  Knox  county  embraced  the  country  near  the  Ohio 
River,  between  the  Great  Miami  and  the  Wabash  Rivers;  and  Vincennes  was 
the  county  seat.  St.  Glair  county  embraced  the  settlements  upon  the  Illinois 
and  upon  the  Kaskaskia  Rivers,  as  well  as  those  upon  the  Upper  Mississippi; 
and  Kaskaskia  was  the  seat  of  justice." 

In  1805,  the  territory  of  Michigan  was  organized,  and  Gen.  Wm.  Hull 
appointed  governor;  Detroit  was  the  seat  of  government.  The  census 
of  1820  gave  it  an  aggregate  population  of  only  8,900.  This  included  the 
Huron  District,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  now  known  as  the  state 
of  Wisconsin.  "  About  the  year  1832,  the  tide  of  emigration  began  to  set 
strong  toward  Michigan  Territory.  Steamboat  navigation  had  opened  a  new 
commerce  upon  the  lakes,  and  had  connected  the  eastern  lakes  and  their  pop 
ulation  with  the  Illinois  and  Upper  Mississippi.  This  immense  lake  navi 
gation  encircled  the  peninsula  of  Michigan.  It  became  an  object  of  explo 
ration.  Its  unrivaled  advantages  for  navigation,  its  immense  tracts  of  the 
most  fertile  arable  lands,  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  all  the  northern  grains 
and  grasses,  attracted  the  attention  of  western  emigrants.  The  tide  soon 
began  to  set  strong  into  Michigan.  Its  fine  level  and  rolling  plains,  its  deep 
and  enduring  soil,  and  its  immense  advantages  for  trade  and  commerce  had 
become  known  and  duly  appreciated.  The  hundreds  of  canoes,  pirogues, 
and  barges,  with  their  half-civilized  couriers  du  bois,  which  had  annually 
visited  Detroit  for  more  than  a  century,  had  given  way  to  large  and  splendid 
steamboats,  which  daily  traversed  the  lakes  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  from 
the  east  end  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  south-western  extremity  of  Lake  Michigan. 
Nearly  a  hundred  sail  of  sloops  and  schooners  were  now  traversing  every 
part  of  these  inland  seas.  Under  these  circumstances,  how  should  Michigan 
remain  a  savage  wilderness  ?  New  York  state  and  the  New  England  states 
began  to  send  forth  their  numerous  colonies,  and  the  wilderness  to  smile. 

At  the  end  of  two  years  more,  or  in  1834,  the  population  of  Michigan  had 


MICHIGAN".  355 

increased  to  87,273  souls,  exclusive  of  Indians.  The  following  year  the 
number  amounted  to  more  than  ninety  thousand  persons,  distributed  over 
thirty-eight  counties,  comprised  in  the  southern  half  of  the  peninsula,  and 
the  'attached  Huron,  or  Wisconsin  District,'  lying  west  of  Lake  Michigan. 
The  town  of  Detroit,  which  in  1812  was  a  stockade  village,  had  now  become 
1  a  city,'  with  nearly  2,500  inhabitants. 

The  humble  villages  and  wigwams  of  the  Indians,  sparsely  distributed  over 
a  wide  extent  of  wilderness,  had  now  given  way  to  thousands  of  farms  and 
civilized  habitations.  Towns  and  smiling  villages  usurped  the  encampment 
and  the  battle-field.  The  fertile  banks  of  the  'River  Raisin'  were  crowned 
with  hamlets  and  towns  instead  of  the  melancholy  stockade.  A  constitu 
tion  had  been  adopted  on  the  15th  of  June,  1836,  and  the  'state  of  Michi 
gan  '  was  admitted  into  the  Union  on  the  26th  day  of  January,  1837,  and 
Stephens  T.  Mason  was  made  the  first  governor." 

In  the  war  of  1812,  the  important  fortress  of  Mackinaw,  being  garrisoned 
by  only  57  men,  under  Lieut.  Hanks,  was  surrendered  to  a  party  of  British 
and  Indians  on  July  17,  1812.  On  the  loth  of  August,  Gen.  Brock, 
with  a  force  of  1,300  men,  of  whom  700  were  Indians,  summoned  Gen.  Hull 
to  surrender  Detroit,  stating  that  he  would  be  unable  to  control  the  Indians 
if  any  resistance  should  be  offered.  Although  Hull  had  a  force  of  800  men, 
he  supposed  it  would  be  useless  to  resist,  and,  to  the  astonishment  of  all,  he 
surrendered  the  fort,  and,  in  the  capitulation,  included  the  whole  territory 
of  Michigan.  The  indignation  was  great  against  him,  and  after  he  was  ex 
changed,  he  was  tried  by  a  court  martial,  sentenced  to  death,  but  on  account 
of  his  age  and  services  in  the  Revolution,  the  president  remitted  the  punish 
ment,  but  deprived  him  of  all  military  command.  In  Jan.,  1813,  Gen.  Win 
chester,  who  was  encamped  at  Frenchtown,  on  the  River  Raisin,  was  sur 
prised  by  a  force  of  British  and  Indians,  under  Gen.  Proctor.  After  a  severe 
contest,  Gen.  Winchester  surrendered,  under  the  promise  of  being  protected 
from  the  Indians.  The  promise  was  broken :  a  large  number  of  prisoners, 
mostly  those  who  were  wounded,  were  murdered  by  the  Indians.  The  cele 
brated  naval  victory  of  Perry  occurred  on  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie,  only  a 
few  miles  from  her  shores,  and  the  victory  of  the  Thames,  in  which  the  Brit 
ish  and  Indians  were  defeated  by  Harrison,  and  in  which  Tecumseh  was 
Blain,  took  place  only  a  short  distance  from  Detroit,  within  the  adjacent 
Canadian  territory.  A  brief  outline  of  these  events  we  present  below: 

"Perry  s  Victory. — The  grand  object  of  the  Americans  in  the  campaign  of  1813, 
in  the  west,  was  to  attack  Maiden  and  reconquer  Michigan  from  the  enemy ;  but 
this  could  not  be  effectually  done,  so  long  as  the  fleet  of  the  enemy  held  possession 
of  Lake  Erie.  To  further  the  desired  object,  a  number  of  vessels  had  been  build 
ing  at  Erie,  on  the  south-east  shore  of  the  lake,  and  were  finished  early  in  August. 
They  consisted  of  two  twenty  gun  vessels,  and  seven  smaller  vessels,  carrying  from 
one  to  three  each — the  whole  fleet  numbering  fifty-four  guns,  On  the  10th  of  Sep 
tember,  Perry  fell  in  with,  and  gave  battle  to,  the  British  fleet  near  the  western 
end  of  the  lake,  under  Commodore  Barclay,  consisting  of  six  vessels,  carrying  in 
all  sixty-four  guns.  The  number  of  guns  in  both  fleets,  in  some  cases,  is  surpassed 
by  those  of  a  single  battle-ship  of  the  line.  The  engagement  between  these  little 
fleets  was  desperate,  and  lasted  three  hours.  Never  was  victory  more  complete ; 
every  British  ship  struck  her  colors,  and  the  Americans  took  more  prisoners  than 
they  themselves  numbered  men. 

Gen.  Harrison,  at  this  time,  lay  with  the  main  body  of  the  Americans  in  the 
vicinity  of  Sandusky  Bay  and  Fort  Meigs;  the  British  and  their  Indian  allies,  un 
der  Proctor  and  Tecumseh,  were  at  Maiden,  ready,  in  case  of  a  successful  issue, 
to  renew  their  ravages  upon  the  American  borders. 


356  MICHIGAN. 

Battle  of  the  Thames. — Harrison's  army  had  received  a  reinforcement  of  3,000 
Kentucky  volunteers,  under  Gov.  Shelby.  On  the  27th  of  September,  the  main 
body  of  the  army  sailed  for  Detroit  River,  intending  to  enter  Canada  by  the  valley 
of  the  Thames.  Two  days  after,  Harrison  was  at  Sandwich,  and  M' Arthur  took 
possession  of  Detroit.  Proctor  retreated  up  the  Thames,  was  pursued,  and  come 
up  with  on  the  5th  of  October,  by  Harrison's  army;  the  Americans  numbering 
something  over  3,000,  and  their  enemy  about  2,000.  The  latter  were  badly  posted 
in  order  of  battle.  Their  infantry  was  formed  in  two  lines,  extending  from  the 
river  to  a  small  dividing  swamp ;  the  Indians  extended  from  the  latter  to  a  larger 
swamp.  The  Kentucky  mounted  men,  under  Col.  Richard  M.  Johnson,  divided 
into  two  parts.  The  one  under  the  colonel  in  person,  charged  the  Indians ;  the 
other  under  his  brother  James,  charged  the  infantry.  The  latter  received  the 
enemy's  fire,  broke  through  their  ranks,  and  created  such  a  panic,  that  they  at 
once  surrendered.  Upon  the  left,  the  contest  with  the  Indians  was  more  severe ; 
but  there  the  impetuosity  of  the  Kentuckians  overcame  the  enemy,  Tecumseh, 
their  leader,  being  among  the  slain.  The  battle  was  over  in  half  an  hour,  with  a 
loss  to  both  armies  of  less  than  fifty  killed.  Proctor  fled  at  the  beginning  of  the 
action.  In  January,  1814,  the  enemy  again  took  a  position  near  the  battle-field  oi 
the  Thames.  Capt.  Holmes,  while  advancing  to  meet  them,  learned  that  a  superior 
force  was  approaching.  Having  posted  himself  on  a  hill,  and  thrown  up  intrench- 
ments,  he  was  vigorously  attacked,  but  repulsed  the  enemy  with  considerable  loss. 

Attack  on  Mackinaw. — In  the  June  following,  Col.  Croghan  attempted  to  take 
the  island  of  Mackinaw,  but  his  force  being  insufficient,  he  was  repelled  with  the 
loss  of  twelve  men,  among  whom  was  Major  Holmes. 

M1  Arthur  s  Expedition. — The  last  movement  of  consequence  in  the  north-west, 
during  the  war,  was  the  expedition  of  Gen.  M' Arthur.  He  left  Detroit  on  the  26th 
of  October,  with  seven  hundred  cavalry,  intending  to  move  to  the  relief  of  Gen. 
Brown,  who  was  besieged  by  the  enemy  at  Fort  Erie,  on  the  Niagara  River,  oppo 
site  Buffalo.  When  he  had  proceeded  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  he  ascer 
tained  that  the  enemy  were  too  strong  in  front,  and  he  changed  his  course,  de 
feated  a  body  of  opposing  militia,  destroyed  several  mills,  and  returned  to  Detroit, 
without  the  loss  of  a  man,  although  pursued  by  about  1,200  regular  troops." 

"The  history  of  Michigan,"  says  Lanman,  "exhibits  three  distinct  and 
strongly  marked  epochs.  The  first  may  properly  be  denominated  the  roman- 
tic,  which  extends  to  the  year  1760,  when  its  dominion  was  transferred  from 
France  to  Great  Britain.  This  was  the  period  when  the  first  beams  of  civili 
zation  had  scarcely  penetrated  its  forests,  and  the  paddles  of  the  French  fur 
traders  swept  the  lakes,  and  the  boat  songs  of  the  traders  awakened  tribes  a* 
wild  as  the  wolves  which  howl  around  the  wigwams.  The  second  epoch  ia 
the  military,  commencing  with  the  Pontiac  war;  and,  running  down  through 
the  successive  struggles  of  the  British,  the  Indians  and  the  Americans,  to 
obtain  the  dominion  of  the  country,  it  ends  with  the  victory  of  Commodore 
Perry,  defeat  of  Proctor,  and  the  death  of  Tecumseh,  the  leader  of  the  Anglo- 
savage  confederacy  upon  the  banks  of  the  Thames.  The  third  epoch  is  the 
enterprising,  the  hardy,  the  practical,  the  working  age  of  Michigan,  and  it 
commences  with  the  introduction  of  the  public  lands  into  market.  It  is 
the  age  of  agriculture,  commerce,  and  manufactures;  of  harbors,  cities,  ca 
nals,  and  railroads." 

Michigan  consists  of  two  peninsulas,  lying  between  latitudes  41°  45'  and 
48°  N.,  and  between  longitudes  82°  25'  and  90°  34"  W.  from  Greenwich. 
It  is  bounded  N.,  N.  E.  and  E.,  by  Canada,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
Lake  Superior,  the  Sault  St.  Marie,  Lake  Huron,  the  Strait  and  Lake  St. 
Clair,  Detroit  Strait  and  Lake  Erie;  on  the  S.  by  the  states  of  Ohio  and 
Indiana;  and  on  the  W.  by  Lake  Michigan  and  the  state  of  Wisconsin. 
The  total  land  surface  comprises  an  area  of  more  than  56,000  square  miles, 
and  the  area  of  waters  within  the  constitutional  limits  of  the  state,  is  computed 


MICHIGAN.  357 

at  36,324  square  miles.  The  lake  coast  of  Michigan  is  more  than  1,400 
miles  long.  The  Southern  Peninsula,  or  Michigan  proper,  comprises  nearly 
two  thirds  of  the  land  surface  of  the  state.  The  Northern  Peninsula  has 
Lake  Superior  on  the  north,  and  Lake  Huron  and  Lake  Michigan  on  the 
south.  It  is  about  220  miles  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.,  and  about  120  miles  in 
its  greatest  width.  The  Southern  Peninsula,  about  283  miles  from  N.  to  S., 
and  200  from  E.  to  "W.  in  its  broadest  part. 

The  Southern  Peninsula  of  Michigan  may  be  considered,  generally,  as  one 
vast  undulating  plain,  seldom  becoming  rough  or  broken.  There  are  occa 
sional  conical  elevations  from  150  to  200  feet  in  hight,  but  generally  much 
less.  The  shores  of  Lake  Huron  are  often  steep,  forming  bluffs ;  while  those 
of  Lake  Michigan  are  coasted  by  shifting  sand  hills  of  from  100  to  200  feet 
in  hight.  The  central  part  of  the  peninsula  may  be  regarded  as  a  fertile 
table  land,  elevated  about  300  feet  above  the  level  the  great  lakes.  To  the 
traveler,  the  country  presents  an  appearance  picturesque  and  delightful. 
Through  a  considerable  part,  it  is  so  even  and  free  from  brush  as  to  permit 
carriages  to  be  driven  through  with  considerable  facility.  The  lowering 
forest  and  grove,  the  luxuriant  prairie,  the  numerous  crystal  lakes  and  lim 
pid  rivulets,  are  so  frequently  and  happily  blended  together,  especially  in  the 
southern  section,  as  to  render  this  country  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the 
Union. 

The  part  of  the  Southern  Peninsula  generally  known  to  travelers,  and 
containing  seven  eighths  of  the  population  and  productive  industry  of  the 
state,  stretches  north  100  miles  or  so,  from  the  north  line  of  Indiana,  reach 
ing  from  Toledo  on  the  east  to  within  some  50  miles  of  Chicago  on  the  west, 
embracing  some  20,000  square  miles  of  mainly  arable  land,  having  the  aver 
age  climate  of  New  York,  or  Connecticut  and  Rhode  Island,  with  about  the 
area  of  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire  combined. 

The  Northern  Peninsula  exhibits  a  striking  contrast  to  the  Southern. 
While  the  latter  is  level  or  moderately  undulating  and  quite  fertile,  the  for 
mer  (sometimes  called  the  Siberia  of  Michigan)  is  rugged,  mountainous,  and 
to  a  considerable  extent,  sterile  in  soil.  The  shores  of  Lake  Superior  are 
composed  of  a  sandstone  rock,  which,  in  many  places,  is  worn  by  the  action 
of  the  winds  and  waves  into  fancied  resemblances  of  castles,  etc.,  forming 
the  celebrated  "Pictured  Rocks;"  while  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  are 
composed  of  a  limestone  rock. 

The  Northern  Peninsula  is  primitive  in  formation,  but  rich  in  mineral 
wealth.  Here  are  the  richest  copper  mines  in  the  world.  A  block  of  almost 
pure  copper,  weighing  over  a  tun,  and  bearing  the  arms  of  the  state  rests 
imbedded  in  the  walls  of  the  national  monument  at  Washington. 

Michigan  has  not  advanced  with  equal  rapidity  to  the  prairie  states ;  but 
she  has  enduring  elements  of  solid  wealth,  which,  in  time,  will  render  her 
among  the  most  prosperous.  Among  these  are  her  vast  forests  of  valuable 
timber,  her  inexhaustible  quarries  of  the  finest  of  gypsum,  her  extensive 
fisheries;  her  recently  discovered  salt  springs,  and  deposits  of  coal,  and  of 
copper  and  iron  ore,  a  climate  rendered  equable  and  healthy  by  the  vast 
bodies  of  water  which  nearly  surround  her,  together  with  a  soil  that  pays 
fairly  the  labors  of  the  husbandman.  A  popular  journalist  gives  us  some 
substantial  thoughts  upon  this  subject.  He  says: 

At  first  view,  Michigan  would  seem  far  less  inviting  to  farmers  in  quest  of  a  lo 
cation,  than  her  more  western  sisters,  and  accordingly  her  growth  has,  for  the  last 
20  years,  been  far  slower  than  theirs.  Her  soil  is,  in  the  average,  not  nearly  so 
vich  as  that  of  the  prairies,  and  is  generally  covered  with  heavy  timber,  while 


358  MICHIGAN. 

her  untimbered  lands  are  apt  to  be  swampy.  There  are  some  exceptions  near 
her  southern  border;  but  in  general,  her  low  levels  are  covered  with  bog-grass, 
or  with  a  growth  of  black  ash  or  low  spruce,  and  can  not  be  made  productive 
of  grain  nearly  so  soon,  so  cheaply,  nor  so  abundantly,  as  can  the  prairies  of 
Illinois  or  Iowa.  Hence  it  is  but  natural  that  the  great  majority  of  eastern  far 
mers,  in  quest  of  new  lands,  should  push  on  to  the  prairie  states,  there  to  secure 
lands  that  are  readily  made,  broadly  and  generously  productive. 

To  buy  a  heavily  timbered  quarter  section,  let  daylight  in  upon  it,  put  up  a  log 
cabin,  and  move  a  family  into  it,  with  a  determination  to  make  there  a  farm,  and 
get  a  living  while  making  it,  is  an  act  of  genuine  courage.  Many  a  man  has 
been  crowned  a  hero  on  considerably  cheaper  terms.  He  who  does  it,  better  de 
serves  a  pension  than  the  ex-soldiers,  whom  congress  has  seemed  disposed  to 
quarter  for  life  on  the  treasury.  For  the  first  half  dozen  years  or  so,  the  growth 
of  that  farm  will  be  scarcely  perceptible,  since  five  days'  work  must  be  done  else 
where  to  every  one  devoted  to  the  enlargement  of  the  clearing.  Making  roads, 
going  to  mill,  hunting  cattle  astray  in  the  dense  forest,  making  fences,  etc.,  with 
the  necessity  of  working  for  others  to  procure  those  necessaries  of  life  that  the 
narrow  patch  of  stumpy  clearing  refuses  to  supply,  consume  at  least  five  sixths  of 
the  time;  so  that  the  poor  man  who,  from  the  first,  adds  five  acres  per  annum  to 
the  area  of  arable  soil  which  surrounds  his  cabin,  does  very  well.  But  when  15 
or  20  acres  thus  cleared,  begin  to  furnish  adequate  bread  for  his  family,  and  grass 
for  his  cattle,  the  case  is  bravely  altered.  Mills  are  by  this  time  nearer  and  more 
easily  reached;  roads  are  better,  and  require  less  labor  at  his  hands;  each  addi 
tion  to  his  clearing  requires  fencing  on  but  two  sides,  instead  of  three  or  four  as 
at  first;  the  older  stumps  begin  to  yield  to  the  plow;  wild  animals  and  birds  are 
less  destructive  of  his  growing  crops  than  when  the  clearing  was  but  a  hand's 
breadth ;  so  that  two  or  three  days  per  week  may  now  be  given  to  clearing  instead 
of  one.  After  40  acres  have  been  cleared,  the  timber  ceases  to  be  an  obstacle ; 
the  neighboring  saw  mill  or  embryo  village  will  take  some  of  it  at  a  price  that  will 
at  least  pay  for  cutting  and  drawing;  the  black  ash  swamp  supplies  in  abundance 
the  best  of  rail  timber;  a  barn  this  year,  a  corn-crib  next,  and  a  wagon  shed  the 
year  after,  absorb  a  good  many  trees ;  the  household  fires  lick  up  the  residue ;  so 
that  acres  are  insensible  swept  off  without  an  effort ;  the  remaining  woods  break 
the  force  of  the  sharp  winds,  and  furnish  nuts  and  other  food  for  swine ;  and  when 
the  eightieth  acre  has  been  cleared,  the  quarter-section  is  worth  more  than  if  it 
were  all  treeless,  and  clearing  for  clearing's  sake  may  be  suspended.  Local  or 
personal  circumstances  must  necessarily  modify  this  picture,  but  its  essential  and 
general  truth  will  be  conceded.  And  thus  a  state  or  section,  like  a  single  farm, 
when  denuded  of  a  portion  of  its  timber,  is  far  more  inviting  to  the  settler  than  if, 
it  had  no  timber  at  all. 

"Michigan  is  encompassed  by  five  lakes,  four  of  which  are  the  largest  col 
lections  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe.  These  are,  Lake  Superior,  Lake  Michi 
gan,  Lake  Huron,  Lake  St.  Clair,  and  Lake  Erie,  which  are  connected  by 
the  Straits  of  Detroit,  St.  Clair,  Michilimackinac,  and  St.  Mary.  Nor  is  this 
state  merely  surrounded  by  lakes,  but  the  interior  is  interspersed  with  them 
from  one  border  to  the  other.  The  country,  indeed,  is  literally  maculated 
with  small  lakes  of  every  form  and  size,  from  an  area  of  1  to  1,000  acres, 
though,  as  a  general  rule,  they  do  not,  perhaps,  average  500  acres  in  extent, 
they  are  sometimes  so  frequent  that  several  of  them  may  be  seen  from  the 
same  position.  They  are  usually  very  deep,  with  gravelly  bottoms,  waters 
transparent,  and  of  a  cool  temperature  at  all  seasons.  This  latter  fact  is 
supposed  to  be  in  consequence  of  springs  which  furnish  them  constant  sup 
plies.  Water  fowl  of  various  sorts  inhabit  their  shores,  and  their  depths  are 
the  domain  of  abundance  of  fish,  trout,  bass,  pike,  pickerel,  dace,  perch,  cat 
fish,  sucker,  bull-head,  etc.,  which  often  grow  to  an  extraordinary  size.  It 
is  usual  to  find  some  creek  or  rivulet  originating  in  these,  but  what  is  a  sin 
gular  fact,  and  not  easily  accounted  for,  many  of  these  bodies  of  living  water 


MICHIGAN. 


359 


have  no  perceptible  outlet,  and  yet  are  stored  with  fish.  A  lake  of  this  de 
scription,  with  its  rich  stores  of  fish  and  game,  forms  no  unenviable  append 
age  to  a  farm,  and  is  properly  appreciated.  But  with  all  its  length  of  lake 
coast,  Michigan  can  boast  of  but  few  good  harbors,  yet  there  are  several  that 
afford  excellent  shelter  from  the  storms  that  frequently  sweep  over  these 
great  island  seas,  and  lash  them  into  turmoil." 

The  fisheries  of  Michigan  are  an  important  element  of  her  industry.  The 
proceeds  of  these  amount,  annually,  to  more  than  half  a  million  of  dol 
lars,  exceeding,  in  value,  the  combined  product  of  the  rest  of  the  fresh 
water  fisheries  in  the  Union. 

Among  them  the  white  fish,  Mackinaw  trout,  and  the  muscolonge,  are  un 
surpassed  for  their  delicacy  of  flavor.  Mackinaw  has  been  fan&ous  as  the 
greatest  fishing  point  on  the  lakes.  The  work  in  that  vicinity  is  mostly 
done  by  half-breeds — of  French  and  Indian  blood — in  the  employ  of  mer 
chants.  Of  late  years  colonies  of  Norwegians  have  embarked  in  the  busi 
ness.  Trained  in  the  severe  school  of  their  rugged  northern  homes,  they 
exhibit  the  greatest  daring,  going  out  in  their  tiny  craft  during  the  heaviest 
gales. 

The  settled  parts  of  Michigan  are  well  supplied  with  railroads,  and  others 
ire  in  progress  which  will  bring  her  valuable  lands  on  the  north  into  mar 
ket.  Within  the  state  are  an  unusually  large  number  of  plank  roads.  In 
a  country  so  full  of  lumber,  these  are  easily  constructed,  and  add  much  to 
the  increase  of  business  communication. 

The  great  bulk  of  the  present  population  of  Michigan,  is  of  New  England 
descent.  About  one  third  of  its  settlers  came  directly  from  the  state  of  New 
York.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  1810,  was  4,762;  in  1830,31,639; 
in  1850,  397,654 :  in  1860,  754,291. 


South-eastern  view  of  Detroit. 

Showing  the  appearance  of  the  city  as  seen  from  the  Great  Western  Depot,  at  Windsor,  on  the  Canada 
side  of  the  river.     The  buildings  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad  appear  on  the  left. 

DETROIT,  the*principal  city,  and  formerly  the  capital  of  Michigan,  is  sit 
uated  on  the  N.W.  or  right  bank  of  Detroit  River,  or  strait,  82  miles  E.S.E. 
from  Lansing,  the  present  capital.  The  name  Detroit,  the  French  word  for 
"strait,"  indicates  its  location.  The  city  extends  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half, 
the  center  of  it  being  about  7  miles  from  Lake  St.  Clair,  and  18  above  the 
west  end  of  Lake  Erie,  526  from  Washington,  and,  by  steamboat,  327  from 


360  MICHIGAN. 

Buffalo.  The  width  between  the  docks  at  "Windsor,  Canada  West,  and  those 
of  Detroit,  opposite,  is  about  half  a  mile,  and  the  depth  of  water  from  12  to 
48  feet.  The  current  in  the  deepest  part  of  the  stream,  opposite  the  city, 
flows  at  the  rate  of  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  Such  is  its  depth  and 
uniformity,  that  it  makes  Detroit  a  secure  and  accessible  harbor  in  all 
seasons. 

Bordering  the  river,  and  for  1,200  feet  back  from  it,  the  plan  of  the  city 
is  rectangular — in  rear  of  this  triangular.  The  streets  are  spacious,  and 
among  the  more  noted  are  eight  avenues;  three  of  these  are  200  feet,  and 
five  others  120  feet  wide.  Five  of  these  center  at  a  public  ground  called  the 
Grand  Circus.  In  the  city  are  several  public  squares  or  spaces,  the  princi 
pal  of  whidh  are  the  Campus  Martius  and  the  Circus.  A  large  portion  of 
the  buildings  are  of  wood,  but  there  are  many  handsome  and  substantial 
brick  buildings.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned,  the  old  state  house,  now 
used  for  literary  purposes ;  the  two  Catholic  cathedrals ;  the  first  Presbyte 
rian  church,  and  several  others.  There  are  in  all  about  30  churches.  The 
Central  Railroad  freight  depot,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  United  States. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  the  purest  of  water  from  the  Detroit  River ;  the 
reservoir,  which  is  of  cast  iron,  is  kept  supplied  by  means  of  a  steam  engine. 
The  business  of  Detroit  is  immense.  It  has  several  extensive  manufactories, 
large  steam  saw  mills,  founderies,  machine  shops,  etc.  It  is  most  admirably 
situated  for  trade,  and  is  becoming  a  great  commercial  emporium.  The  nav 
igation  of  the  river  and  lake  is  open  about  eight  months  in  the  year;  the 
arrivals  and  departures  of  steam  and  sailing  vessels  is  very  great,  and  con 
stantly  increasing.  By  this,  and  the  numerous  railroad  communications, 
thousands  of  emigrants  travel  annually,  and  millions  of  dollars  worth  of 
produce  are  transported.  A  direct  trade  has,  of  late  years,  sprung  up  with 
Europe,  by  means  of  sailing  vessels,  from  this  and  other  lake  ports,  via  the 
Welland  Canal,  of  Canada,  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  Atlantic  Ocean.  In 
1859,  22  vessels  in  all  sailed  for  Europe,  laden  with  staves  and  lumber.  The 
population  of  Detroit,  in  1830,  was  2,222;  in  1840,  9,102;  in  1850,  21,057; 
in  1853,  34,436;  and  in  1860,  46,834. 

Detroit  was  founded  in  1701,  by  Cadillac,  a  French  nobleman,  acting  under 
a  commission  from  Louis  XIV.  In  June  of  this  year,  he  left  Montreal  with 
one  hundred  men,  a  Jesuit  missionary,  and  all  the  necessary  means  for  the 
erection  of  a  colony ;  reached  Detroit  in  July,  and  commenced  the  founda 
tion  of  the  settlement.  Before  this  period,  and  as  far  back  as  1620,  it  was 
the  resort  of  the  French  missionaries :  when  first  visited  by  them,  its  site 
was  occupied  by  an  Indian  village,  named  Teuchsa  Grondie.  A  rude  fort 
was  erected  by  Cadillac,  and  surrounded  with  pickets,  which  inclosed  a  few 
houses,  occupied  by  the  French  traders  and  the  soldiers  attached  to  the  post. 
This  establishment  was,  however,  rude,  frail,  and  mounted  with  small  cannon, 
which  were  more  adapted  to  overawe  the  Indians  than  for  solid  and  effective 
defense.* 

In  May,  1712,  the  Iroquois,  or  Five  Nations,  who  were  hostile  to  the 
French  and  friendly  Indians,  instigated  the  Ottagamies  or  Foxes,  their  allies, 
to  capture  Detroit.  They  were  probably  backed  by  the  English,  who  wished 
to  destroy  this  post  and  erect  a  fort  of  their  own  upon  its  ruins.  At  this 
period,  the  French  had  established  three  villages  of  friendly  Indians  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  post,  occupied  by  the  Pottawatomies,  the  Ottawas, 


*Lanman's  History  of  Michigan. 


MICHIGAN. 


361 


and  the  Hurons.  The  Foxes,  having  laid  a  secret  plan  for  the  destruction 
of  the  French  fort,  the  plot  was  revealed  by  one  of  the  friendly  Indians,  a 
convert  to  the  Catholic  faith.  On  the  13th  of  May,  Detroit  was  attacked  by 
the  Foxes.  At  this  critical  juncture,  the  friendly  Indians,  to  whom  the 


View  in  Woodward  Avenue,  Detroit. 

The  City  Hall  and  Market  appear  on  the  left ;  the  Kussell  House  in  the  central  part.  In  the  extreme 
distance  on  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  Woodward  Avenue,  on  the  opposite  or  Canada  side  of  the  river,  is  seen 
the  depot  of  the  Great  Western  Railroad. 

French  commander,  M.  D'Buisson,  had  sent  for  aid,  appeared  through  the 
wilderness,  naked,  painted  and  armed  for  battle ;  they  were  received  into  the 
fort,  and  the  Foxes  were  obliged  to  retreat.  They  afterward  endeavored  to 
burn  out  the  French,  and  for  this  purpose  discharged  blazing  arrows  upon 
the  fort.  Many  of  the  roofs  of  the  houses,  being  thatched  with  steaw,  were 
Bet  on  fire,  but  by  covering  the  remainder  with  wet  skins  they  were  pre 
served. 

The  French  power  in  Michigan  ceased  with  the  conquest  of  Canada.  In 
the  fall  of  1760,  Major  Rogers,  with  an  English  detachment,  proceeded  to 
ward  Detroit,  to  take  possession.  De  Bellestre,  when  he  heard  of  the  ad 
vance  of  Rogers,  erected  a  high  flag-staff,  with  an  effigy  of  a  man's  head  on 
top,  and  upon  this  head  he  had  placed  the  image  of  a  crow.  He  told  the 
Indians,  who  are  strongly  impressed  with  symbols,  that  the  head  represented 
Maj.  Rogers,  and  the  crow  was  himself.  The  interpretation  of  this  group 
was,  that  the  French  commandant  would  scratch  out  the  brains  of  the  En 
glish.  The  Indians,  however,  were  skeptical  as  to  the  truth  of  this  emblem, 
and  told  him  that  the  reverse  would  be  the  fact.  Maj.  Rogers,  having 
pushed  his  boats  up  the  Detroit  River,  drew  up  his  detachment  in  a  field 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  fort.  Lieuts.  Lefflie  and  M'Cormick,  accompanied 


362  MICHIGAN. 

by  thirty-six  Royal  Americans,  were  sent  forward  to  take  possession  of  De 
troit.  The  French  garrison  surrendered  their  arms,  and  the  first  British 
flag  was  raised  upon  the  fort,  amid  the  shouts  of  700  Indians,  collected 
around  that  station,  who  exulted  that  their  prediction  respecting  the  crow 
had  been  verified. 

The  next  event  of  importance  in  the  history  of  Detroit,  and,  indeed,  of 
the  whole  north-west,  was  the  Indian  outbreak  called  the  "Pontiac  War." 
The  fort  at  Detroit  was,  at  this  time,  garrisoned  by  122  men  and  8  officers, 
under  the  command  of  Maj.  Gladwyn.  Two  armed  vessels  were  anchored 
in  front  of  the  town  for  defense.  The  Indians  who  besieged  it  were  600  in 
number. 

"  The  plan  which  was  devised  by  Pontiac  to  destroy  the  fort  at  Detroit;  exhibited 
remarkable  cunning  as  well  as  strategy.  He  had  ordered  the  Indians  to  saw  off 
their  rifles  so  as  to  conceal  them  under  their  blankets,  gain  admission  to  the  fort, 
and,  at  a  preconcerted  signal,  which  was  the  delivery  of  a  belt  of  wampum  in  a 
certain  way,  to  rush  upon  the  troops,  massacre  the  officers,  and  open  the  gates  to  the 
warriors  on  the  outside,  who  should  stand  ready  to  co-operate  with  those  within. 
In  order  to  carry  this  plan  into  execution,  he  encamped  at  a  little  distance  from 
Detroit,  and  sent  word  to  Major  Gladwyn  that  he  and  his  warriors  wished  to  hold 
a  council  with  the  English  commandant  -on  the  following  day,  that  'they  might 
brighten  the  chain  of  peace.'  This  was  the  8th  of  May,  1763.  The  council  was 
granted.  On  the  evening  of  that  day,  an  Indian  woman,  who  had  been  employed 
by  Major  Gladwyn  to  make  him  a  pair  of  elk-skin  moccasins,  which  he  intended 
to  present  to  a  friend,  brought  them  to  the  fort.  These  were  finished  in  so  hand 
some  a  manner,  that  he  requested  the  woman  to  take  back  the  remainder  of  the 
skin,  and  make  them  into  others  for  himself.  He  then  paid  her  for  those  which 
she  had  made,  and  ordered  his  servant  to  see  her  from  the  fort.  Having  arrived 
at  the  gate  which  looks  out  upon  the  Detroit  River,  she  lingered  as  if  her  business 
had  been  unfinished  ;  and  this  conduct  excited  some  remark.  The  servant  of  the 
commandant  was  ordered  to  inquire  the  reason  of  her  delay,  but  he  could  procure 
no  satisfactory  answer.  At  length  the  commandant  called  her  within  the  fort,  and 
inquired  why  she  loitered  about  the  gate,  and  did  not  hasten  home  before  they 
were  shut,  so  that  she  might  complete  the  moccasins  at  the  proper  time.  iShe  re 
plied  that  the  commandant  had  treated  her  with  great  kindness,  and  that  she  did 
not  wish  to  take  the  skin  away,  as  he  prized  it  so  much,  because  she  could  '  never 
bring  it  back.'  Something  seemed  to  be  struggling  in  her  bosom  for  utterance,  and 
at  length,  after  a  promise  that  the  disclosure  should  not  turn  to  her  disadvantage, 
and  that,  if  profitable,  she  might  be  rewarded,  this  Indian  woman,  named  Catha 
rine,  developed  the  plot.  Major  Gladwyn  mentioned  his  apprehensions  to  the  officer 
next  in  command,  but  he  deemed  it  a  mere  trick  to  frighten  him,  and  not  worthy 
of  consideration.  The  night  was  occupied  in  making  the  proper  preparations ;  the 
ammunition  was  examined  and  arranged,  and  every  man  within  the  fort,  both  tra 
der  and  soldier,  was  directed  to  be  prepared  for  sudden  and  active  service.  The 
defenses  of  the  fort  were  strengthened,  the  arms  made  ready,  and  during  the  night 
guards  were  kept  upon  the  ramparts.  The  war  songs  and  dances  of  the  Indians, 
which  generally  precede  any  important  enterprise,  breaking  upon  the  silence  of 
midnight,  only  strengthened  his  suspicions  that  the  Indian  woman  had  told  the 
truth.  In  the  morning  of  the  9th,  about  ten  o'clock,  Pontiac  and  his  warriors  re 
paired  to  the  fort  of  Detroit,  and  they  were  immediately  admitted  to  the  council- 
house,  where  they  were  received  by  Major  Gladwyn  and  his  officers.  During  their 
progress  toward  the  fort,  the  savages  had  noticed  a  remarkable  parade  of  soldiers 
upon  the  ramparts  and  within  the  town,  and  that  the  officers  in  the  council  cham 
ber,  and  also  the  governor,  had  each  pistols  in  their  belts.  When  the  Indians  were 
seated  on  their  skins  in  the  council  chamber,  Pontiac  inquired  what  was  the  cause 
of  this  extraordinary  military  preparation  ;  and  he  was  told  that  it  was  necessary 
to  keep  the  soldiers  to  rigid  discipline.  The  council  commenced  by  a  speech  from 
Pontiac,  in  which  he  professed  the  utmost  friendship  for  the  English ;  and  as  he 
approached  the  period  of  the  concerted  signal,  the  delivery  of  the  belt  of  warn 


MICHIGAN. 


363 


pum,  his  gesticulations  became  more  violent.  Near  the  period  which  had  been 
described  by  the  Indian  woman  as  the  time  when  the  belt  was  to  be  delivered,  and 
the  fire  upon  the  garrison  commenced,  the  governor  and  his  officers  drew  their 
swords  from  their  scabbards ;  and  the  soldiers  of  the  fort,  who  had  been  drawn 
around  the  doors  of  the  council-house,  which  had  been  intentionally  left  open, 
made  a  clattering  upon  the  ground  with  their  arms.  Pontiac,  whose  eagle  eye  had 
never  quailed  in  battle,  turned  pale  and  trembled,  and  delivered  the  belt  in  the 
usual  manner ;  while  his  warriors  looked  at  each  other  with  astonishment,  but  con 
tinued  calm. 

Pontiac's  speech  having  been  concluded,  Major  Gladwyn  commenced  his  answer; 
but  instead  of  thanking  Pontiac  for  his  professions  of  friendship,  he  accused  him 
of  being  a  traitor;  and  in  order  to  convince  him  of  his  knowledge  of  the  plot,  he 
advanced  toward  the  chief  who  sat  nearest,  and  drawing  aside  his  blanket,  dis 
closed  the  shortened  rifle.  He  advised  him  at  the  same  time,  to  leave  the  fort  be 
fore  his  young  men  should  discover  the  design  and  massacre  the  Indians;  and  as 
sured  him  that  his  person  should  be  held  safe  until  he  had  advanced  beyond  the 
pickets,  as  he  had  promised  him  safety.  As  soon  as  the  warriors  had  retired  from 
the  gates  of  the  fort,  they  gave  the  yell,  and  fired  upon  the  English  garrison. 

After  this  the  fort  was  closely  besieged,  and  the  garrison  reduced  to  great 
distress.  On  the  29th  of  July,  the  garrison  was  relieved  by  a  detachment 
of  300  regular  troops,  under  Capt.  Dalyell.  This  officer,  supposing  that 
Pontiac  might  be  surprised  in  his  camp,  marched  out  with  247  men,  during 
the  night  of  the  30th  of  July.  The  Indians,  having  information  of  the 
proposed  attack,  laid  in  wait  for  the  party,  concealed  in  the  high  grass,  near 
a  place  since  called  the  Bloody  Bridge,  upward  of  a  mile  from  Detroit  on 
the  main  road.  Upon  their  arrival,  a  sudden  and  destructive  fire  was  poured 
upon  them,  Capt.  Dalyell  and  19  others  were  killed  and  42  wounded  ;  the 
rest  made  good  their  retreat  to  the  fort.  Pontiac,  having  invested  Detroit 
for  about  twelve  months,  hearing  that  Gen.  Bradstreet  was  advancing  with 
3,000  men,  gave  up  the  siege  and  sued  for  peace,  which  was  granted. 


*  In  1796,  the  post  of  Detroit  was  delivered  up  by  the  British  to  the  United 

States,  according  to  treaty. 

On  tho  llth  day  of  June,  1805,  the  sun  rose  in  cloudless  splendor,  over  the  little  town 
of  Detroit.  A  few  minutes  alter  a  poor  washer-woman  kindled  a  fire  in  a  back  yard,  to 
begin  her  daily  toil,  a  spark  set  fire  to  some  hay.  At  noon  of  the  same  day,  but  one  soli 
tary  dwelling  remained,  to  mark  the  site  of  the  town.  All  the  others  were  in  ashes,  and 
the  whole  population,  men,  women  and  children — the  aged  and  the  young,  the  sick,  the 
halt,  and  the  blind,  were  driven  into  the  streets,  houseless  and  homeless.  All  the  boats, 
pirogues  and  skiffs  lying  along  the  beach  (as  it  then  was),  were  loaded  with  goods,  and 
pushed  off  into  the  stream;  but  burning  shingles,  driven  by  the  wind,  followed  and  de 
stroyed  them  even  there.  The  town  being  built  of  dry  pine,  and  very  compact,  the  streets 
being  but  about  twenty  feet  wide  (the  width  of  a  sidewalk  on  Jefferson  Avenue),  the  pro 
gress  of  the  fire  was  extremely  rapid,  and  the  heat  tremendous.  The  whole  population, 
like  Bedouins  of  the  desert,  pitched  their  tents,  by  the  cooling  embers  of  their  late  happy 
dwellings.  Fortunately,  Providence  permitted  the  calamity  to  fall  on  them  in  summer. 
The  Lea-light  hearts  of  the  French  habitans  rose  above  the  pressure  of  misfortune,  and  to 
work  they  went,  to  repair  damages.  No  grumbling  at  Providence.  Their  religion  told 
them  that  repining  was  useless.  So  they  worked,  and  fiddled,  and  danced,  and  sung,  and 
soon  a  new  town  began  to  appear,  in  its  present  extended  form;  and  with  the  regret  of  the 
moment,  passed  away  all  sorrow  for  the  losses  endured. — Witherell's  Reminiscences. 


The  following  account  of  the  invasion  of  Detroit,  by  Gen.  Brock,  and  of 
its  surrender  by  Gen.  Hull,  on  the  15th  of  August,  1812,  is  from  Perkins* 
History  of  the  Late  War: 

Gen.  Brock  had  been  educated  in  arms,  and  had  sustained  a  distinguished  rank 


364  MICHIGAN. 

and  character  in  the  army  of  Egypt.  He  arrived  at  Maiden  with  reinforcements 
in  high  spirits  on  the  13th,  just  as  the  American  troops  retired  from  the  Canadian 
shore,  dispirited,  disappointed  and  disgusted  with  their  commander.  On  the  15th, 
he  planted  batteries  on  the  bank  of  the  river  opposite  the  fortress  of  Detroit,  and 
sent  a  summons  to  the  American  general  to  surrender,  stating  that  he  should  other 
wise  be  unable  to  restrain  the  fury  of  the  savages.  This  was  answered  by  a  spir 
ited  refusal,  and  a  declaration  that  the  fort  and  town  would  be  defended  to  the 
last  extremity.  The  firing  from  the  batteries  and  the  fort  immediately  commenced, 
and  continued  with  little  interruption,  and  without  much  effect,  until  the  next  day. 
The  alarm  and  consternation  of  Gen.  Hull  had  now  become  extreme,  and  appeared 
in  a  series  of  irregular  and  incoherent  measures.  On  the  12th,  the  field  officers 
suspecting  the  general  intended  a  surrender  of  the  fort,  had  determined  on  his 
arrest.  This  was  prevented  in  consequence  of  Cols.  Duncan  M' Arthur  and  Lewis 
Cass,  two  very  active,  intelligent,  and  spirited  officers,  being  detached  on  the  13th 
with  four  hundred  men,  on  a  third  expedition  to  the  River  Raisin.  They  advanced 
about  fourteen  miles,  when  on  the  15th  they  received  orders  to  return.  At  day 
light  on  the  16th,  the  British  commenced  crossing  the  river  at  Spring  Wells,  three 
miles  below  the  town,  under  cover  of  two  ships  of  war.  They  accomplished  their 
landing  by  seven  o'clock  without  opposition,  and  took  up  their  line  of  inarch  in 
close  column  of  platoons,  twelve  in  front,  toward  the  fort  along  the  bank  of  the 
river.  The  fourth  regiment  of  United  States  troops  was  stationed  in  the  fort ;  the 
Ohio  volunteers  and  a  part  of  the  Michigan  militia  behind  the  pickets,  in  a  situa 
tion  where  the  whole  flank  of  the  enemy  would  have  been  exposed.  The  residue 
of  the  militia  were  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town  to  resist  the  incursions  of  the 
savages.  Two  twenty-four  pounders  loaded  with  grape  were  posted  on  a  command 
ing  eminence,  ready  to  sweep  the  advancing  columns.  Cols.  M' Arthur  and  Cass 
had  arrived  within  view  of  Detroit,  ready  to  act  on  the  rear  of  the  enemy.  In  this 
situation  the  troops  waited  in  eager  expectation  the  advance  of  the  British,  antici 
pating  a  brilliant  victory. 

When  the  head  of  the  British  columns  had  advanced  within  five  hundred  yards 
of  the  line,  and  the  artillery  ready  to  sweep  their  ranks,  orders  were  given  for  the 
troops  to  retire  into  the  fort,  and  for  the  artillery  not  to  fire.  A  white  flag  was 
hoisted.  A  British  officer  rode  up  to  inquire  the  cause.  A  communication  passed 
between  the  commanding  generals,  which  soon  ended  in  a  capitulation.  The  for 
tress  of  Detroit,  with  all  the  public  stores,  property,  and  documents  of  every  kind, 
were  surrendered.  The  troops  were  made  prisoners  of  war.  The  detachment  un 
der  M'Arthur  and  Cass,  and  the  troops  at  the  River  Raisin,  were  included  in  the 
capitulation.  On  the  17th,  Gen.  Brock  dispatched  a  flag  to  Capt.  Brush  with  the 
terms.  He  immediately  called  a  council  of  his  officers,  who  determined  that  they 
were  not  bound  by  the  capitulation,  and  advised  to  break  up  the  camp  and  return. 
In  pursuance  of  their  advice,  Capt.  Brush  immediately  broke  up  his  camp,  took 
with  him  what  public  stores  and  property  he  could,  and  commenced  his  retreat  to 
Ohio.  The  Michigan  militia  who  had  not  joined  the  army  were  paroled,  on  con 
dition  of  not  serving  during  the  present  war.  No  provision  was  made  for  the  un 
fortunate  Canadians  who  had  joined  Gen.  Hull,  or  accepted  his  protection.  They 
were  left  exposed  to  suffer  as  traitors  ;  nine  were  executed  at  one  time,  and  several 
more  afterward.  Gen.  Hull  in  this  measure  took  counsel  only  from  his  own  fears. 
He  held  no  council  of  war,  knowing  that  all  his  officers  would  be  opposed  to  the 
surrender.  In  his  official  report  he  expressly  exempts  them  from  any  share  in  the 
disgraceful  transaction. 

The  British  force  at  Maiden  at  the  time  Gen.  Hull  entered  Canada,  and  until 
the  12th  of  August,  consisted  of  one  hundred  regular  troops,  four  hundred  Cana 
dian  militia,  and  several  hundred  Indians.  After  the  arrival  of  Gen.  Bro.ck  with 
his  reinforcements,  the  whole  amounted  to  three  hundred  and  thirty  regulars,  four 
hundred  militia,  and  six  hundred  Indians.  The  troops  surrendered  by  Gen.  Hull 
amounted  to  twenty-five  hundred,  consisting  of  two  troops  of  cavalry,  one  compa 
ny  of  artillery,  the  fourth  United  States  regiment,  and  detachments  from  the  first 
and  third;  three  regiments  of  Ohio  volunteers,  and  one  regiment  of  Michigan 
militia,  amounting  to  about  twelve  hundred.  By  this  capitulation  the  British  ob 
tained  2,500  muskets  stacked  on  the  esplanade 'at  the  time  of  the  surrender,  450 


MICHIGAN. 


365 


brought  in  by  the  detachment  under  M' Arthur  and  Cass,  700  received  from  the 
Michigan  militia,  thirty-three  pieces  of  ordnance,  one  thousand  rounds  of  fixed 
ammunition,  200  tuns  of  ball,  200  cartridges  of  grape  shot,  75,000  musket  car 
tridges  made  up,  24  rounds  in  the  possession  of  each  man,  60  barrels  of  gunpow 
der,  150  tuns  of  lead,  provisions  for  the  army  for  25  days  in  the  fort,  and  a  large 
escort  at  the  Kiver  Raisin.  An  event  so  disgraceful  to  the  American  arms  did  not 
fail  to  excite  universal  indignation.  When  M' Arthur's  sword  was  demanded,  he 
indignantly  broke  it,  tore  the  epaulets  from  his  shoulders,  and  threw  himself  on 
the  ground. 

John  Kinzie,  Indian  trader,  so  long  identified  with  the  annals  of  Chicago, 
was,  at  the  time  of  the  surrender,  residing  in  Detroit.  In  "  Wau-bun,  the 
*  Early  Day 'in  the  North-west,"  is  given  this  narrative,  which  shows  the 
conduct  of 'the  British  to  their  prisoners  in  no  pleasing  light: 

It  had  been  a  stipulation  of  Gen.  Hull,  at  the  surrender  of  Detroit,  that  the  inhabitants 
of  that  place  should  be  permitted  to  remain  undisturbed  in  their  homes.  Accordingly  the 
family  of  Mr.  Kinzie  took  up  their  quarters  with  their  friends  in  the  old  mansion,  which 
many  will  still  recollect  as  standing  on  the  north-east  corner  of  Jefferson-avenue  and 
Wayne-street. 

The  feelings  of  indignation  and  sympathy  were  constantly  aroused  in  the  hearts  of  the 
citizens  during  the  winter  that  ensued.  They  were  almost  daily  called  upon  to  witness  the 
cruelties  practiced  upon  the  American  prisoners  brought  in  by  their  Indian  captors.  Those 
who  could  scarcely  drag  their  wounded,  bleeding  feet  over  the  frozen  ground,  were  com 
pelled  to  dance  for  the  amusement  of  the  savages,  and  these  exhibitions  sometimes  took 
place  before  the  Government  House,  the  residence  of  Col.  McKee.  Some  of  the  British 
officers  looked  on  from  their  windows  at  these  heartrending  performances;  for  the  honor 
,of  humanity  we  will  hope  such  instances  were  rare. 

Everything  that  could  be  made  available  among  the  effects  of  the  citizens  were  offered, 
to  ransom  their  countrymen  from  the  hands  of  these  inhuman  beings.  The  prisoners 
brought  in  from  the  River  Raisin — those  unfortunate  men  who  were  permitted  after  their 
surrender  to  Gen.  Proctor,  to  be  tortured  and  murdered  by  inches  by  his  savage  allies,  ex 
cited  the  sympathies  and  called  for  the  action  of  the  whole  community.  Private  houses 
were  tnrned  into  hospitals,  and  every  one  was  forward  to  get  possession  of  as  many  as  pos 
sible  of  the  survivors.  To  effect  this,  even  the  articles  of  their  apparel  were  bartered  by 
the  ladies  of  Detroit,  as  they  watched  from  their  doors  or  windows  the  miserable  victims 
carried  about  for  sale. 

In  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Kinzie  one  large  room  was  devoted  to  the  reception  of  the  suf 
ferers.  Few  of  them  survived.  Among  those  spoken  of  as  objects  of  the  deepest  inter 
est  were  two  young  gentlemen  of  Kentucky,  brothers,  both  severely  wounded,  and  their 
wounds  aggravated  to  a  mortal  degree  by  subsequent  ill-usage  and  hardships.  Their  so- 
\icitude  for  each  other,  and  their  exhibition  in  various  ways  of  the  most  tender  fraternal 
•iffection,  created  an  impression  never  to  be  forgotten. 

Mr.  Kinzie  joined  his  family  at  Detroit  in  the  month  of  January.  A  short  time  after 
mspicions  arose  in  the  mind  of  Gen.  Proctor  that  he  was  in  correspondence  with  Gen.  Har 
rison,  who  was  now  at  Fort  Meigs,  and  who  was  believed  to  be  meditating  an  advance  up- 
m  Detroit.  Lieut.  Watson  of  the  British  army  waited  upon  Mr.  Kinzie  one  day,  with  an 
invitation  to  the  quarters  of  Gen.  Proctor,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  saying  he 
wished  to  speak  with  him  on  business.  Quite  unsuspicious,  he  complied  with  the  invita 
tion,  when  to  his  surprise  he  was  ordered  into  confinement,  and  strictly  guarded  in  the 
liouse  of  his  former  partner,  Mr.  Patterson,  of  Sandwich.  Finding  that  he  did  not  return 
^0  his  home,  Mrs.  Kinzie  informed  some  of  the  Indian  chiefs,  his  particular  friends,  who 
vmmediately  repaired  to  the  head-quarters  of  the  commanding  officer,  demanded  their 
"friend's  "  release,  and  brought  him  back  to  his  home.  After  waiting  a  time  until  a  fa 
vorable  opportunity  presented  itself,  the  general  sent  a  detachment  of  dragoons  to  arrest 
him.  They  had  succeeded  in  carrying  him  away,  and  crossing  the  river  with  him.  Just 
at  this  moment  a  party  of  friendly  Indians  made  their  appearance. 

"  Where  is  the  Shaw-nee-aw-kee?  "  was  the  first  question.  "  There,"  replied  his  wife, 
pointing  across  the  river,  "  in  the  hands  of  the  red-coats,  who  are  taking  him  away 
again." 

The  Indians  ran  to  the  river,  seized  some  canoes  that  they  found  there,  and  crossing 
over  to  Sandwich,  compelled  Gen.  Proctor  a  second  time  to  forego  hia  intentions. 

A  third  time  this  officer  was  more  successful,  and  succeeded  in  arresting  Mr.  Kinzie  and 
conveying  him  heavily  ironed  to  Fort  Maiden,  in  Canada,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Detroit 
River.  Here  he  was  at  first  treated  with  great  severity,  but  after  a  time  the  rigor  of  hia 


366 


MICHIGAN. 


confinement  was  somewhat  relaxed,  and  he  was  permitted  to  walk  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  for  air  and  exercise. 

On  the  10th  of  September,  as  he  was  taking  his  promenade  under  the  close  supervision 
of  a  guard  of  soldiers,  the  whole  party  were  startled  by  the  sound  of  guns  upon  Lake  Erie, 
at  no  great  distance  below.  "What  could  it  mean?  It  must  be  Commodore  Barclay  firing 
into  some  of  the  Yankees.  The  firing  continued.  The  time  allotted  the  prisoner  for  his 
daily  walk  expired,  but  neither  he  nor  his  guard  observed  the  lapse  of  time,  so  anxiously 
were  they  listening  to  what  they  now  felt  sure  was  an  engagement  between  ships  of  war. 
At  length  Mr.  Kinzie  was  reminded  that  the  hour  for  his  return  to  confinement  had  arrived. 
He  petitioned  for  another  half-hour. 

"  Let  me  stay,"  said  he,  "  till  we  can  learn  how  the  battle  has  gone." 

Very  soon  a  sloop  appeared  under  press  of  sail,  rounding  the  point,  and  presently  two 
gun-boats  in  chase  of  her. 

"  She  is  running — she  bears  the  British  colors,"  cried  he,  "  yes,  yes,  they  are  lowering 
— she  is  striking  her  flag!  Now,"  turning  to  the  soldiers,  "  I  will  go  back  to  prison  con 
tented — I  know  how  the  battle  has  gone." 

The  sloop  was  the  Little  Belt,  the  last  of  the  squadron  captured  by  the  gallant  Perry  on 
that  memorable  occasion  which  he  announced  in  the  immortal  words: — "  We  have  met  the 
enemy,  and  they  are  ours!  " 

Matters  were  growing  critical,  and  it  was  necessary  to  transfer  all  prisoners  to  a  place 
of  greater  security  than  the  frontier  was  now  likely  to  be.  It  was  resolved,  therefore,  to 
Bend  Mr.  Kinzie  to  the  mother  country.  Nothing  has  ever  appeared,  which  would  explain 
the  course  of  Gen.  Proctor,  in  regard  to  this  gentleman.  He  had  been  taken  from  the 
bosom  of  his  family,  where  he  was  living  quietly  under  the  parole  which  he  had  received, 
and  protected  by  the  stipulations  of  the  surrender.  He  was  kept  for  months  in  confine 
ment.  Now  he  was  placed  on  horseback  under  a  strong  guard,  who  announced  that  they 
had  orders  to  shoot  him  through  the  head  if  he  offered  to  speak  to  a  person  upon  the  road. 
He  was  tied  upon  the  saddle  in  a  way  to  prevent  his  escape,  and  thus  they  sat  out  for 
Quebec.  A  little  incident  occurred,  which  will  help  to  illustrate  the  course  invariably  pur- 
Bued  toward  our  citizens  at  this  period,  by  the  British  army  on  the  north-western  frontier. 

The  saddle  on  which  Mr.  Kinzie  rode  had  not  been  properly  fastened,  and  owing  to  the 
rough  motion  of  the  animal  on  which  it  was,  it  turned,  so  as  to  bring  the  rider  into  a  most 
awkward  and  painful  position.  His  limbs  being  fastened,  he  could  not  disengage  himself, 
and  in  this  manner  he  was  compelled  by  those  who  had  charge  of  him  to  ride  until  he  was 
nearly  exhausted,  before  they  had  the  humanity  to  release  him. 

Arrived  at  Q,uebee,  he  was  put  on  board  a  small  vessel  to  be  sent  to  England.  The  ves 
sel  when  a  few  days  out  at  sea  was  chased  by  an  American  frigate  and  driven  into  Hali 
fax.  A  second  time  she  set  sail,  when  she  sprung  a  leak  and  was  compelled  to  put  back. 

The  attempt  to  send  him  across  the  ocean  was  now  abandoned,  and  he  was  returned  to 
Quebec.  Another  step,  equally  inexplicable  with  his  arrest,  was  now  taken.  This  was 
his  release  and  that  of  Mr.  Macomb,  of  Detroit,  who  was  also  in  confinement  in  Quebec, 
and  the  permission  given  them  to  return  to  their  friends  and  families,  although  the  war 
was  not  yet  ended.  It  may  possibly  be  imagined  that  in  the  treatment  these  gentlemen 
received,  the  British  commander-in-chief  sheltered  himself  under  the  plea  of  their  being 
"  native  born  British  subjects,"  and  perhaps  when  it  was  ascertained  that  Mr.  Kinzie  wa3 
indeed  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  it  was  thought  safest  to  release  him. 

In  the  meantime,  Gen.  Harrison  at  the  head  of  his  troops  had  reached  Detroit.  He 
landed  on  the  29th  September.  All  the  citizens  went  forth  to  meet  him— Mrs.  Kinzie, 
leading  her  children  by  the  hand,  was  of  the  number.  The  general  accompanied  her  to 
her  home,  and  took  up  his  abode  there. 

Watson  visited  Detroit  in  the  summer  of  1818,  and  has  given  in  his  Remi 
niscences  a  sketch  of  his  visit,  descriptive  of  what  then  fell  under  his  notice 
here: 

Here  I  am  at  the  age  of  sixty  in  Detroit,  seven  hundred  miles  west  of  Albany.  I  little 
dreamed  thirty  years  ago,  that  I  should  ever  tread  upon  this  territory 

The  location  of  Detroit  is  eminently  pleasant,  being  somewhat  elevated,  and  boldly  front 
ing  its  beautiful  river.  The  old  town  has  been  burnt,  which  was  a  cluster  of  miserable 
structures. picketed  in  and  occupied  by  the  descendants  of  Frenchmen,  who  pitched  their 
tents  here  early  in  the  seventeenth  century  in  prosecution  of  the  fur  trade.  The  city  is 
now  laid  out  upon  a  large  scale,  the  streets  spacious,  and  crossing  at  right  angles.  The 
main  street  is  called  Jefterson-avenue,  and  stretches  the  whole  length  of  the  city.  De 
troit  must  always  be  the  emporium  of  a  vast  and  fertile  interior.  By  the  existing  estima 
tion  of  the  value  of  real  estate  here,  it  has,  I  think,  been  greatly  overrated.  Commerce 


MICHIGAN. 

is  languishing,  and  agriculture  at  its  lowest  degradation.  In  proof  of  this,  I  saw  at  the 
Grand  Marie,  four  miles  north  of  the  city,  a  large,  clumsy,  wooden  plow,  such  as  doubt 
less  were  in  use  in  France,  at  the  period  of  the  emigration  from  that  country  of  the  ances 
tors  of  this  people.  It  was  drawn  by  two  yoke  of  oxen  and  two  horses,' and  wag  con 
ducted  by  three  men,  who  were  making  as  much  noise  as  if  they  were  moving  a  barn. 

The  most  attractive  object  I  have  seen  on  this  beautiful  river  are  its  innumerable  'and 
lovely  islands,  most  of  which  are  cultivated.  The  dense  forest  approaches  in  close  prox 
imity  to  the  city,  and  spreads  over  a  level  surface  quite  into  the  interior.  From  the  high 
est  point  of  elevation  I  could  attain,  I  discerned  no  uplands,  all  was  a  dead  plain.  The  land 
belongs  to  the  government,  and  is  of  the  richest  quality,  but  has  hitherto  been  represented 
as  unhealthy.  The  territory  of  Michigan  has  not  been  adequately  explored;  but  while  I 
was  at  Detroit,  several  parties  of  enterprising  and  energetic  young  men  penetrated  into 
the  woods  with  packs  on  their  shoulders  to  investigate,  and  returned  with  the  most  glow 
ing  and  flattering  accounts  of  a  country  of  the  choicest  land,  generally  undulating,  and 
requiring  nothing  but  the  vigorous  arm  of  industry  to  convert  it  into  the  granary  of 
America. 

The  near  approach  of  the  wilderness  to  Detroit,  brings  the  howling  wolves  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  city,  and  I  was  frequently  called  on  to  listen  to  their  shrill  cries  in 
the  calm,  hot  nights.  The  numerous  and  large  old  orchards  of  the  finest  apples,  origin 
ally  imported  from  France,  and  the  extensive  fisheries  of  white  fish  in  the  vicinity,  greatly 
augment  the  wealth  and  comfort  of  the  people.  Although  possessing  the  most  fertile  soil 
such  is  the  wretched  character  of  their  agriculture,  that  the  inhabitants  are  mainly  de 
pendent  upon  the  young  and  thriving  state  of  Ohio,  for  their  supplies  of  pork,  beef,  bread- 
stuffs,  and  even  of  potatoes. 


East  view  of  the  State  House  at  Lansing. 

The  engraving  shows  the  front  or  the  eastern  side  of  the  Michigan  State  Capitol.  One  of  the  Union 
Public  Schools  is  seen  in  the  distance  on  the  left,  and  the  State  building  containing  the  office  of  the  Secre 
tary  of  State,  Auditor,  etc.,  on  the  right. 

I  daily  notice  squaws  fighting  in  the  streets  like  wild-cats,  and  in  conditions  too  revolt 
ing  to  describe.  They  lay  about  the  city  like  swine,  begging  for  cats  and  dogs,  which 
they  devour  at  the  river  side  half-cooked.  The  most  disgusting  and  loathsome  sight  I 
ever  witnessed,  was  that  of  a  coarse,  fat,  half-naked  Indian,  as  filthy  as  a  beast,  under  a 
tree  immediately  in  front  of  my  son's  residence,  filling  his  mouth  with  whisky  until  his 
cheeks  were  completely  distended,  and  then  two  or  three  squaws  in  succession  sucking  it 
out  of  the  corners.  I  called  my  daughter-in-law  to  see  the  revolting  sight,  but  she  as 
sured  me  it  was  nothing  unusual,  and  that  the  practice  was  common  with  this  tribe  of  In 
dians.  I  often  visited  the  fort  that  my  old  friend  Hull  so  fatally  and  ignominiously  sur 
rendered.  Col.  Myers,  who  was  in  command  of  Fort  George  at  its  capture,  informed  me 
while  a  prisoner  in'Pitts field,  that  one  half  of  Brock's  army,  at  the  surrender  of  Detroit, 
wore  Canadian  militia  dressed  in  British  red  coats. 

LANSING,  the  capital  of  Michigan,  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  Grand 
River,  here  a  large  mill  stream,  85  miles  N.  W.  of  Detroit,  20  from  St.  Johns 
on  the  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Railroad,  and  40  from  Jackson  on  the  Central 


368  MICHIGAN. 

Railroad.  The  town,  which  is  laid  out  on  an  extended  plan,  has  at  present 
a  scattered  appearance.  The  state  capitol  (of  wood)  was  erected  in  the  sum 
mer  of  1847,  at  an  expense  of  about  $15,000.  The  state  agricultural  college 
is  situated  three  and  a  half  miles  east  from  the  capital,  and  has  a  model  farm  of 
about  700  acres :  it  is  crowded  with  pupils,  and  the  noble  example  set  by 
Michigan,  in  founding  this  institution,  has  been  followed  by  several  other 
states.  The  house  of  .Correction,  for  juvenile  offenders,  opened  in  1856,  is 
about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  east  from  the  capital.  In  1852,  a  plank  road 
to  Detroit  was  constructed,  at  an  expense  of  $130,000.  Plank  roads  also 
connect  it  with  Jackson  and  Marshall.  Population  about  3,000. 

The  lands  comprising  the  northern  part  of  Lansing  were  first  entered  from  the 
United  States,  in  1836,  by  Jaines  Seymour,  Frederic  Bushnell,  and  Charles  M.  Lee, 
of  Rochester,  New  York.  The  first  settler  was  John  "W.  Burchard,  a  young  lawyer, 
who  bought,  on  the  east  side  of  Grand  River,  109  acres  of  James  Seymour,  situated 
at  the  lower  town  bridge  extending  up  the  river  to  the  school  section.  He  built  a 
log  cabin  still  standing  in  the  rear  of  the  Seymour  House.  This  was  in  1843 ;  and 
in  June  of  the  same  year,  he  removed  his  family  to  this  place,  and  immediately 
commenced  building  a  saw-mill  and  dam.  In  the  spring  of  1844,  he  was  drowned 
while  amusing  himself,  in  a  boat,  at  the  sheet  of  water  which  fell  over  the  dam, 
which  he  had  constructed.  Approaching  too  near,  his  boat  was  overturned,  and 
he  perished  amid  the  eddying  waters.  He  was  buried  at  Mason,  12  miles  distant, 
universally  lamented.  He  was  a  man  of  much  promise,  and  was  the  first  prose 
cuting  attorney  in  the  county.  On  the  death  of  Mr.  Burchard,  his  family  left  the 
place,  and  the  settlement  was,  for  a  short  time,  abandoned,  and  the  lands  and  im 
provements  reverted  back  to  Mr.  Seymour. 

In  Aug.  1844,  Mr.  Seymour  employed  Joab  Page,  and  his  two  sons-in-law,  Whit 
ney  Smith  and  Geo.  D.  Pease,  all  of  Mason,  to  finish  the  mill,  etc.  All  these 
lived  in  Burchard' s  log  house  for  several  years. 

In  Jan.  1847,  Mr.  Seymour  made  a  proposition  to  the  legislature  of  Michigan, 
that  if  they  would  remove  the  seat  of  government  on  to  his  lands,  he  would  give 
20  acres,  erect  the  capitol  and  buildings  for  the  use  of  the  state.  This  offer,  how 
ever,  was  not  accepted ;  but  they  passed  an  act  to  locate  the  capital  in  the  town 
ship.  A  commission  was  appointed,  consisting  of  the  commissioner  of  the  land 
office,  James  Seymour,  and  Messrs.  Townsend  and  Brother,  of  New  York,  to  make 
a  definite  location.  The  commission  selected  a  spot  on  which  to  erect  a  capitol 
building,  one  mile  from  the  Burchard  Mill,  on  section  16,  called  the  "  School  Sec 
tion."  The  commission,  in  May  of  the  same  year,  united  in  laying  out  a  town 
plat,  two  and  one  fourth  miles  long,  and  one  wide,  comprising  both  sides  of  the 
river.  At  this  period  there  were  no  settlers  on  the  tract  but  the  Page  family,  whose 
nearest  neighbors,  on  the  south  and  east,  were  four  and  a  half  miles  distant,  and 
one  settler,  Justus  Gilkley,  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  north-west.  Within  a  few 
weeks  after  the  town  was  laid  out,  one  thousand  persons  moved  into  the 
place. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  some  of  the  first  settlers  besides  those  already 
mentioned: 

B.  B.  Danforth,  D.  L.  Case,  James  Turner,  Charles  P.  Bush,  George  W.  Peck, 
John  Thomas,  Whitney  Jones,  A.  T.  Grossman,  Henry  C.  Walker,  C.  C.  Darling, 
Dr.  B.  S.  Taylor,  J.  C.  Bailey,  M.  W.  Quackenbush. 

Lansing  received  its  name  from  Lansing  in  New  York,  from  which  some  of  the 
settlers  had  emigrated.  The  first  public  worship  in  the  place  was  held  in  the  Bur 
chard  log  house,  by  the  Methodist  traveling  preachers.  In  1849,  the  Methodists 
and  Presbyterians  united  in  building  the  first  church  in  the  place,  now  solely  oc 
cupied  by  the  Methodists.  The  first  Presbyterian  clergyman  here,  was  the  Rev. 
S.  Millard,  from  Dexter.  The  first  school  was  kept  in  a  little  shanty  built  in  1847 
and  stood  near  the  Seymour  House.  The  first  physician  was  a  Dr.  Smith,  who, 
soon  after  his  arrival  in  1847,  died  of  a  fever  in  Page's  log  house.  The  first  post 
master  was  George  W.  Peck,  who,  for  a  time,  kept  the  office  in  Bush  and  Town- 
send's  store,  near  the  upper  town  bridge.  The  first  framed  house  in  the  township 


MICHIGAN.  369 

was  erected  in  1847,  by  James  Turner,  a  native  of  New  York,  whose  ancestors 
were  from  New  London,  Connecticut  This  building  is  now  standing,  about  40 
rods  below  the  lower  town  bridge. 


Southern  view  of  the  Penitentiary  at  Jackson. 

Showing  its  appearance  as  seen  from  the  railroad. 

JACKSON  is  a  large,  thriving,  and  well-built  town,  on  the  line  of  the 
Michigan  Central  Railroad,  on  and  near  the  head  of  Grand  River,  76  miles 
W.  from  Detroit,  and  32  S.  from  Lansing,  the  capital.  The  streams  here 
afford  excellent  water  power,  and  the  soil  is  well  adapted  to  grass  or  grain. 
Coal  and  an  abundance  of  white  sand-stone  and  lime-stone  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  The  inhabitants  are  extensively  engaged  in  the  manufactures  of 
flour,  leather,  iron  ware,  machinery,  etc.  It  contains  the  county  buildings, 
a  branch  of  the  state  university,  the  state  penitentiary,  7  churches,  and  several 
banks.  Its  situation  and  facilities  for  travel  give  it  a  large  trade.  Popula 
tion  about  6,000. 

"In  this,  Jackson  county,  the  matter  of  mining  coal  has  recently  become 
an  enterprise  of  considerable  magnitude.  There  are  several  'workings'  of 
coal  in  the  vicinity  of  Jackson,  and  companies  have  been  formed  for  the  pur 
pose  of  mining  coal.  Considerable  coal  has  been  mined  and  sold  from  these 
different  workings  and  mines.  The  principal  mine,  and  one  which  in  all  its 
arrangements  and  provisions,  is  equal  to  any  mine  in  the  country,  is  that  of 
the  Detroit  and  Jackson  Coal  and  Mining  Company.  The  works  of  this 
company  are  at  Woodville  station,  on  the  line  of  the  Michigan  Central  Rail 
road,  about  three  and  a  half  miles  west  of  Jackson  city.  The  mine  is  situated 
on  the  north  side  of  the  railroad,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  main  track. 
The  Coal  Company  have  built  a  side  track  from  the  Central  Road  to  the 
mouth  of  their  shaft.  The  shaft  from  which  the  coal  is  taken,  is  90  feet 
deep,  and  at  the  bottom  passes  through  a  vein  of  coal  about  four  feet  in 
thickness.  This  vein  has  been  opened  in  different  directions,  for  several 
hundred  feet  from  the  shaft,  and  with  a  tram  road  through  the  different 
entries  the  coal  is  reached  and  brought  from  the  rooms  to  the  shaft,  and 
then  lifted  by  steam  to  the  surface.  This  coal  has  been  transported  to 
different  points  in  the  state,  and  is  rapidly  coming  into  use  for  all  ordinary 
purposes,  taking  the  place  of  many  of  the  Ohio  coals,  and  at  a  reduced 
cost.  The  existence  of  valuable  beds  of  coal,  in  Central  Michigan,  has 
only  been  determined  within  the  past  few  years.  Beside  the  openings  in 
this  county,  there  have  been  others  made  at  Owesso  and  Corunna,  in  Shia- 
wassee  county ;  at  Flint  in  Genesee  county,  and  at  Lansing.  Most  of  these 
have  been  upon  veins  outcropping  at  the  surface  of  the  ground." 

24 


370  MICHIGAN. 

Adrian,  a  flourishing  town,  is  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Raisin  River, 
and  on  the  Michigan  Southern  Railroad,  80  miles  S.  E.  from  Lansing;  37 
W.  from  Monroe,  and  70  W.  S.  W.  from  Detroit.  The  Erie  and  Kalamazoo 
Railroad,  which  was  opened  in  1836,  connects  the  town  with  Toledo,  32 
miles  distant;  and  the  Southern  Railroad  was  extended  westward  to  Chicago, 
in  1852.  Adrian  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1853.  Being  in  the  midst 
of  a  fine,  fertile,  farming  region,  it  has,  since  the  construction  of  its  railroads, 
increased  with  rapidity.  It  has  several  flouring  mills,  foundries,  machine 
shops,  etc. ;  10  houses  of  worship,  and  about  6,000  inhabitants. 

The  village  was  surveyed  and  platted  in  1828,  by  Addison  J.  Comstock,  who 
made  a  location  in  1826,  and  having  erected  a  shanty,  he  brought  his  family  here 
in  the  spring  of  1827,  and  was  soon  joined  by  Noah  Norton  and  others.  The  first 
sermon  preached  in  the  place,  was  in  1827,  by  Rev.  John  Janes,  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  at  the  house  occupied  by  Mr.  Norton.  In  1830  a  Methodis) 
Church  was  organized.  Other  churches  were  soon  after  established  by  the  Bap 
tists  and  Presbyterians.  The  first  house  of  worship  was  erected  in  1832,  on  Church 
street,  by  the  Presbyterians:  it  was  afterward  sold  to  the  Episcopalians,  and  ii 
now  owned  by  the  Methodists.  The  first  framed  school  house  was  erected  in  tht 
winter  of  1831-2.  It  stood  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Winter-streets,  and  was  used 
for  some  time,  for  the  double  purpose  of  school  and  church.  Mr.  Comstock  built 
a  saw  mill  in  1827,  and  soon  after  a  flouring  mill,  the  only  one  for  many  miles 
around.  The  seat  of  justice  for  Lenawee  county  was  removed  from  Tecumseh  to 
Adrian,  in  1836.  The  city  received  its  name  from  Mrs.  Comstock.  James  Sword 
was  the  first  mayor.  Mr.  S.  is  a  native  of  the  county  of  Kent,  in  England;  he  was 
a  soldier  in  the  Peninsular  war,  in  Spain,  and  was  in  several  important  battles  at 
that  period.  The  Lenawee  Republican  and  Adrian  Gazette,  R.  VV.  Ingalls,  editor 
and  proprietor;  the  first  paper  in  the  countv,  was  issued  Oct.  22.  1834.  Its  name 
has  been  changed  to  "The  Watch  Tower.'  In  1843,  the  Messrs.  Jermain  com 
menced  the  publication  of  the  "Expositor."  The  first  physician  was  Dr.  Ormsby, 
the  second  Dr.  Bebee,  who  died  of  the  small  pox,  and  the  third,  Dr.  P.  J.  Spalding, 
who  came  to  Adrian  in  1832:- 

Ann  Arbor,  the  county  seat  of  Washtenaw  county,  is  on  Huron  River,  and 
on  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad.  It  is  37  miles  W.  from  Detroit,  and  51 

southerly  from  Lansing.  It  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  beau 
tifully  situated  places  in  the 
state.  The  site  of  the  city  is 
elevated,  dry,  and  healthy,  and 
it  is  regularly  laid  out.  The 
state  university,  in  this  place, 
was  established  in  1837,  and  is 
now  a  flourishing  and  well  en 
dowed  institution.  The  literary 
„  department  was  opened  in  1841 ; 

UNIVEBSITY  OF  MICHIGAN.  .*  1  ••.      ,    •.          \  .•     IO*A 

the  medical  department  in  1849, 

and  in  1853  a  scientific  course  was  added.  The  buildings  are  large,  in  an 
elevated,  commanding,  and  pleasant  situation.  Ann  Arbor  is  surrounded  by 
an  excellent  farming  district,  has  considerable  trade  and  manufactures  of  va 
rious  kinds.  Population  about  6,000. 


MONROE  is  near  the  head  of  Lake  Erie,  on  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
Michigan  Southern  Railroad,  41  miles  from  Detroit  and  24  from  Toledo,  by 
the  railroad  connecting  those  cities.  It  is  on  both  sides  of  the  River  Raisin, 
2  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  lake.  It  has  a  fine  harbor,  and  the  soil 


MICHIGAN. 


371 


WINCHESTEB'S  HEAD  QD'ARTERS, 
On  the  River  Raisin. 

This  house,  modernized,  is  now  the  Episcopal  par 
sonage  in  Monroe.  It  is  of  hewn  logs:  the  himrieys 
were  built  of  stone  from  the  river  bed  a  few  yards 
distant,  and  the  original  form  of  the  house  in  the 
usual  style  of  the  French  settlers,  with  a  very  steep 
roof.  The  grove  of  pear  trees  in  the  rear  is  sup 
posed  to  be  over  70  years  old. 


is  a  limestone  formation  which  furnishes  inexhaustible  quarries  for  the  manu 
facture  of  lime.     Population  about  4,000. 

This  point  formerly  called  FRENCHTOWN,  and  sometimes  the  settlement  of 
the  River  Raisin,  is  one  of  the  most  noted  in  the  history  of  Michigan.  The 

following  details  are  communicated 
for  this  work,  by  Edwin  Willits, 
Esq.,  of  Monroe,  who  has  given 
much  attention  to  the  investigation 
of  the  history  of  this  section : 

Monroe  was  one  of  the  earliest  set 
tlements  in  the  state  of  Michigan,  a 
small  body  of  Canadians  and  French 
having  settled  there  in  1784.  In  1794, 
Detroit  and  Frenchtown  (Monroe)  were 
the  principal  towns  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  peninsula.  The  latter  consisted, 
however,  of  only  a  few  log  cabins  bor 
dering  both  banks  of  the  River  Raisin, 
the  claims  on  which  they  were  situated 
being  narrow  and  running  back  from 
the  river  a  long  distance.  The  culti 
vated  portions  of  the  claims  lay  next  to 
the  river,  and  were  inclosed  by  pickets 
which  were  very  substantial,  being  split 
out  roughly  from  logs,and  driven  or  set  in 
the  ground  closely  together.  The 
first  American  settlement  was  established  there  in  17(J3,  and  soon  after  a  Catholic 
chapel  was  erected  for  the  French. 

The  region  around  about  Frenchtown  was  originally  inhabited  and  claimed  by 
the  Pottawatomie  Indians.  At  a  treaty  concluded  at  Fort  Mclntosh  in  1785,  these 
Indians  and  other  tribes  ceded  to  the  United  States  a  strip  of  territory  six  miles 
wide,  extending  from  the  southern  bank  of  the  River  Raisin  to  Lake  St.  Clair. 
As  late  as  the  year  1800,  the  Pottawatomies  had  a  village  of  a  thousand  warriors, 
beside  their  wives  and  children,  at  what  is  now  called  Chase's  Mill,  on  the  River 
Raisin,  eight  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Monroe.  Their  huts  were  made  of  bark,  and 
were  thatched  with  wild  grass.  This  was  their  permanent  dwelling  place,  save 
when  they  were  absent  on  hunting  expeditious.  They  cultivated  the  flat  between 
the  high  grounds  and  the  river  for  their  cornfields :  they  were  peaceable  when 
sober. 

At  Hull's  treaty  at  Detroit,  in  1807,  the  Indians  ceded  to  the  United  States  about 
14  of  the  present  counties  in  the  eastern  part  of  Michigan,  and  two  and  one  half 
counties  in  northern  Ohio.  After  this,  therefore,  the  Pottawatomies  abandoned 
their  village  near  Monroe,  and  moved  west.  They  reserved,  however,  a  tract  of 
land  in  Monroe  county,  three  miles  square,  called  the  Macon  Reservation,  14  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  River  Raisin. 

In  1805,  there  were,  according  to  the  report  of  Judge  Woodward,  121  settle 
ments,  or  farms,  on  the  River  Raisin.  These,  however,  must  have  included  the 
neighboring  settlement  on  Sandy  and  other  creeks,  as  there  £ould  scarcely  have 
been  that  number  on  the  River  Raisin,  according  to  the  memory  of  the  oldest  set 
tlers.  At  this  time  there  was  no  village,  nor  any  collection  of  houses  nearer  than 
they  would  naturally  be  on  the  narrow  French  claims.  In  1807  a  block  house  and 
stockade  were  built  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  residence  of  Hon.  Charles 
Noble ;  they  were  erected  for  the  protection  of  the  people  from  the  Indians.  The 
stockade  was  an  acre  in  size,  surrounded  with  pickets  12  feet  high,  and  12  to  15 
inches  through,  set  closely  together,  forming  a  very  substantial  defense.  For  some 
time  the  upper  part  of  the  block  house  was  used  to  hold  courts  in,  and  the  lower 
part  was  the  prison. 


MICHIGAN. 

In  consequence  of  the  fact,  that  the  settlement  of  the  River  Raisin  was  on  the 
direct  road  from  Detroit  to  Ohio,  it  was  deemed  a  post  of  considerable  importance 
during  the  difficulties  that  preceded,  as  well  as  during  the  actual  hostilities  of  the 
war  of  1812.  Detroit  depended,  in  a  great  measure,  on  Ohio  and  Kentucky  for 
men  and  provisions,  and  as  these,  since  Gen.  Hull  had  cut  a  narrow  wagon  road 
through,  would  pass  through  Frenchtown,  it  was  of  importance  that  the  place 
should  be  kept  out  of  the  hands  of  the  enemy,  who  could  easily  cross  over  from 
Canada  and  cut  off  the  supplies  before  they  reached  Detroit.  For  this  reason, 
Monroe  became  the  scene  of  actual  warfare,  not  on  a  very  extended  scale,  it  is  true, 
but  worthy  of  record  among  the  incidents  of  the  war  of  1812. 

Just  previous  to,  or  about  the  first  of  August,  1812,  Col.  Brush  was  sent  from 
Ohio  at  the  head  of  two  companies  of  Ohio  militia,  with  3  or  400  cattle,  and  a  large 
stock  of  provisions,  and  some  arms  and  ammunition,  for  Gen.  Hull,  then  in  com 
mand  of  the  American  troops  at  Detroit.  He  got  as  far  as  Frenchtown,  but  learn 
ing  that  a  large  party  of  British  and  Indians  had  been  sent  out  from  Maiden, 
Canada,  to  intercept  him  at  Brownstown,  a  place  some  20  miles  from  Frenchtown, 
on  the  road  to  Detroit,  and  fearing  to  advance  farther  without  assistance  from  Geri. 
Hull,  he  occupied  the  block  house  and  stockade.  Two  expeditions  were  sent  out 
by  Gen.  Hull  to  relieve  Col.  Brush.  The  first  consisting  of  200  men  under  Maj.  Van 
iforn,  fell  into  an  ambuscade  of  Indians  at  Brownstown,  on  the  8th  of  August,  and, 
after  fighting  gallantly  against  a  hidden  and  superior  force,  he  thought  it  .best,  as 
his  force  was  evidently  too  small,  to  return  to  Detroit,  leaving  18  dead  on  the  field. 
The  second  expedition  was  made  by  Col.  Miller,  on  the  9th  of  August,  with  600 
men,  who  met,  fought  and  dispersed,  after  a  desperate  battle,  a  large  body  of 
British  and  Indians  at  Monguagon,  a  place  15  miles  below  Detroit  The  British 
were  commanded  by  Maj.  Muir,  the  Indians  by  the  celebrated  Indian  warrior  and 
statesman,  Tecumseh,  who,  on  that  day,  fought  with  desperate  valor,  and  although 
wounded,  maintained  his  ground  while  the  British  regulars  gave  way.  Col.  Miller 
was  obliged  to  await  provisions  before  he  could  advance  further  toward  the  Raisin, 
and  was  finally  ordered  back  by  Gen.  Hull,  who  feared  or  expected  an  attack  on 
Detroit.  Arrangements  were  now  made  to  convey  Col.  Brush  and  the  supplies  in 
his  charge  by  a  more  circuitous  and  less  exposed  route,  which  had  been  traveled  by 
James  Knaggs,  who  had  carried  a  letter  from  Col.  Brush  to  Gen.  Hull.  In  order 
to  effect  this,  Colonels  McArthur  and  Cass  were  sent  to  his  relief  with  350  of  the 
best  troops,  on  the  13th  of  August,  but  they  had  not  arrived  at  the  Raisin  before 
the  surrender  of  Detroit  to  the  British,  which  occurred  the  16th  of  August,  their 
command,  as  well  as  that  of  Col.  Brush  and  his  supplies,  being  included  in  the 
capitulation. 

In  order  to  secure  the  force  under  Col.  Brush  and  the  supplies  in  his  charge, 
Capt.  Elliott,  a  British  officer,  accompanied  by  a  Frenchman  and  a  Wyandot  In 
dian,  was  sent  to  Frenchtown  with  a  copy  of  the  capitulation.  Col.  Brush,  learn 
ing  from  his  scouts  that  Capt.  Elliott  was  coming  with  a  flag  of  truce,  sent  a  guard 
out  to  meet  him.  He  and  his  companions  were  blindfolded  and  brought  into  the 
stockade.  Brush  would  not  believe  Elliott's  story,  and  thought  it  was  a  hoax,  and 
the  copy  of  the  capitulation  a  forgery,  so  utterly  improbable  did  it  seem  that  De 
troit  had  been  taken.  For  this  reason  he  threw  Elliott  and  his  two  companions 
into  the  block-house.  The  next  day,  however,  the  story  was  confirmed  by  an 
American  soldier,  who  had  escaped  from  Detroit.  Upon  this,  Brush  packed  up 
what  provisions  he  could,  and,  driving  his  cattle  before  him,  escaped  to  Ohio,  leav 
ing  orders  to  release  Elliott  on  the  next  day,  which  was  done.  Elliott,  of  course, 
was  indignant  at  his  treatment,  and  at  the  escape  of  Brush  with  so  much  of  the 
supplies.  To  add  to  his  rage,  a  great  portion  of  the  provisions  and  ammunition 
left  by  Brush,  had  been  carried  off  and  secreted  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  place, 
,  before  he  had  been  released,  they  thinking  it  no  great  harm  to  take,  for  their  own 
use,  what  would  otherwise  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  rascally  British,  as  they  called 
them.  These  acts  were  certainly  very  injudicious,  and  all  concur  in  attributing  a 
great  portion  of  the  calamities  that  befell  the  settlement  to  the  manner  in  which  they 
had  treated  Elliott,  and  to  their  evasion  of  the  terms  of  the  capitulation.  Elliott 
sent  for  Tecumseh  to  pursue  Brush,  and  permitted  the  Indians  to  ravage  and  plun- 


MICHIGAN.  373 

der  the  settlement  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  Tecumseh.*  The  settlement 
was  plundered  not  only  of  provision  and  cattle,  but  horses,  saddles,  bridles,  house 
hold  furniture,  and  every  valuable  which  had  not  been  secreted.  The  place  was 
so  stripped  of  horses,  that  James  Knaggs,  who,  for  15  days,  lay  hid  in  the  set 
tlement  (a  reward  of  $500  having  been  offered  for  his  scalp),  could  find  only  one  on 
which  to  escape  to  Ohio,  and  that  one  had  been  hidden  by  a  tailor  in  a  cellar: 
Knaggs  gave  his  coat  and  a  silver  watch  for  it.  After  much  peril  he  succeeded 
in  escaping,  and  afterward  was  present  at  the  battle  of  the  Thames,  under  Col.  R. 
M.  Johnson,  and  was  not  far  from  Tecumseh  at  the  time  of  his  death.  Mr.  Knaggs 
is  still  living,  and  resides  at  Monroe. 

About  this  time,  at  the  command  of  Elliott,  the  block-house  was  burned,  and  also 
a  portion  of  the  pickets  were  destroyed,  as  it  was  impossible  for  the  British  to  oc 
cupy  the  place  then,  and  it  would  not  answer  to  leave  them  standing.  Elliott 
then  left,  and  bands  of  Indians  repeatedly  came  and  plundered  the  settlement,  until 
about  October,  when  some  British  officers  came  with  some  militia  and  took  per 
manent  possession  of  the  place.  They  occupied  the  houses  of  Jerome  and  Con- 
ture,  below  the  brick  house  now  owned  by  Gibson,  not  far  from  the  present  rail 
road  bridge.  This  location  was  made  from  the  fact  that  it  was  adjacent  to,  and 
commanded  the  road  to  Detroit,  and  because,  from  its  elevation,  it  overlooked  the 
opposite  (south)  side  of  the  River  Raisin,  whence  would  come  the  attacks  of  the 
Americans,  who  were  shortly  expected  to  advance  under  Gen.  Harrison  to  Detroit. 
Here  they  remained  with  a  considerable  force  of  British  and  Indians,  until  the  ap 
pearance  of  the  advance  troops  under  Gen.  Winchester,  on  the  18th  of  January, 
1813.  These  advance  troops  were  led  by  Colonels  Lewis  and  Allen,  and  came 
from  Maumee  on  the  ice,  and  attacked,  on  the  afternoon  of  that  day.  the  ene 
my,  from  a  point  below  where  the  storehouses  on  the  canal  are  now  situated. 
The  British  had  posted  a  six-pounder  on  the  high  ground  in  front  of  the  camp,  and 
with  it  attempted  to  prevent  the  Americans  from  crossing,  by  firing  diagonally 
down  the  river,  but  the  attack  was  made  with  such  vigor,  that  the  British  were  dis 
lodged  after  a  short  contest,  and  compelled  to  retreat  toward  Maiden.  The  In 
dians  held  out  until  dark,  being  protected,  in  a  measure,  by  the  rushes  which  con- 

*0ne  incident  we  have  never  seen  published,  shows  the  character  of  the  great  Indian 
chieftain,  Tecumseh,  in  a  noble  light.  When  he  came  to  the  Raisin,  after  the  retreat 
of  Col.  Brush,  he  found  that  most  of  the  cattle  of  the  settlement  had  been  driven  off,  either 
by  the  settlers  in  order  to  save  them,  or  by  the  Indians  a,s  plunder.  Therefore  he  expe 
rienced  much  difficulty  in  getting  meat  for  his  warriors.  He,  however,  discovered  a  yoke 
of  fine  black  oxen,  belonging  to  a  man  by  the  name  of  Rivard,  who  resided  up  the  river 
some  distance  above  Monroe.  Tecumseh  took  the  cattle,  but  Rivard  begged  so  hard,  stat 
ing  that  they  were  the  only  property  he  had  left,  and  taking  him  into  the  house,  showed 
the  chieftain  his  father,  sick  and  in  need  of  medicine,  and  appealed  so  hard  to  Tecumseh's 
generosity,  that  Tecumseh  said  he  must  have  the  cattle,  as  his  men  were  hungry,  but  that 
he  would  pay  him  $100  for  them.  The  cattle  were  speedily  killed,  and  during  the  evening 
a  man  who  could  write  made  out  an  order  on  Elliott  for  $100,  and  it  was  signed  by  Tecum 
seh.  The  next  morning  Rivard  went  to  the  block-house  to  get  the  money,  but  Elliott 
would  not  pay  the  order,  and  treated  Rivard  harshly,  telling  him  the  oxen  did  not  belong  to 
him,  but  to  the  British  who  had  conquered  the  country.  Rivard  returned  and  reported  what 
had  occurred.  Tecumseh  was  indignant,  declaring  that  if  that  was  the  way  his  orders 
were  treated,  he  would  pay  the  debt  himself,  and  leave  with  his  men.  The  truly  insulted 
chieftain  then  strode  into  Elliott's  presence,  accompanied  by  Rivard,  and  demanded  why 
his  order  had  not  been  paid  ?  Elliott  told  him  that  he  had  no  authority  to  pay  such  debts, 
that  it  was  no  more  than  right  that  the  citizens  should  support  the  army  for  their  willful 
ness.  Tecumseh  replied  that  he  had  promised  the  man  the  money,  and  the  money  he  should 
have,  if  he  had  to  sell  all  his  own  horses  to  raise  it:  that  the  man  was  poor  and  had  a  sick 
father  as  he  knew,  having  seen  him,  and  that  it  was  not  right  that  this  man  should  suffer 
for  the  evil  deeds  of  his  government,  and  that  if  this  was  the  way  the  British  intended  to 
carry  on  the  war,  he  would  pay  the  debt  and  then  leave  with  his  men  for  his  home,  and  let 
the  British  do  their  own  fighting.  Elliott,  subdued  by  the  will  of  the  Indian  leader, 
brought  out  $100  in  government  scrip,  but  Tecumseh  bade  him  take  it  back,  as  he  had 
promised  the  man  the  money,  and  the  money  he  should  have,  or  he  would  leave.  Elliott 
was  therefore  compelled  to  pay  the  specie,  and  then,  in  addition,  Tecumseh  made  him  give 
the  man  a  dollar  extra  for  the  trouble  he  had  been  at. 


374 


MICHIGAN. 


coaled  them,  on  the  low  grounds  below  the  British  camp.  Finally  they  retreated 
to  the  woods,  and  the  Americans  so  heedlessly  pursued  them,  that  in  the  darkness 
they  fell  into  an  ambuscade,  and  had  about  13  men  killed  and  several  wounded.  The 
loss  in  the  afternoon  is  not  known,  but  is  supposed  to  have  amounted  to  as  many  more. 
Colonels  Lewis  and  Allen  took  possession  of  the  quarters  vacated  by  the  British, 
and  established  guards  at  the  picket  fences,  some  distance  from  the  houses,  and 
patrols  in  the  woods. 

On  the  19th,  two  hundred  Americans,  under  Col.  Wells,  arrived  and  encamped 
on  the  Reaume  farm,  about  80  rods  below  the  other  troops.  On  the  20th  of  Janu 
ary,  Gen.  Winchester  arrived  and  took  up  his  quarters  in  the  house  of  Col.  Francis 
Navarre,  on  the  opposite  (south)  side  of  the  river,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
above  the  position  of  Cols.  Lewis  and  Allen.  The  troops  that  came  with  him,  un 
der  Major  Madison,  occupied  the  same  camp  that  the  others  did.  All  the  forces 
amounted  to  not  far  from  1,000  men.  ' 

Immediately  after  the  battle  of  the  18th,  some  of  the  French  inhabitants  who 
had  sold  provisions  to  the  British,  followed  them  to  Maiden  to  get  their  pay.  On 
their  return,  they  brought  word  that  the  British  and  Indians  were  collecting  in 
large  force,  to  the  amount  of  3,000  to  attack  Frenchtown.  Gen.  Winchester  paid 
but  little  attention  to  these  reports,  feeling  considerable  confidence  in  his  own 
strength,  and  expecting  reinforcements  that  would  render  him  safe  beyond  a  doubt, 
before  the  enemy  could  possibly  attack  him.  The  British  seemed  to  be  aware  that 
they  must  make  the  attack  before  these  reinforcements  carne  up,  if  they  wished  to 
effect  any  thing ;  hence  they  hastened  their  preparations.  On  the  21st,  several  of 
the  more  prominent  French  citizens  went  to  Winchester  and  told  him  that  they 
had  reliable  information  that  the  ximerican  camp  would  be  attacked  that  night  or 
the  next  day.  He  was  so  infatuated  that  he  paid  no  further  deference  to  their 
statement  than  to  order  those  soldiers  who  were  scattered  around  the  settlement, 
drinking  cider  with  the  inhabitants,  to  assemble  and  remain  in  camp  all  night. 

About  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  of  January,  1813,  a  large  force  of 
British  and  Indians,  under  Proctor  and  the  celebrated  Indian  chiefs,  Round  Head 
and  Split  Log,  attacked  the  camp  of  the  Americans.  The  attack  was  made  all 
along  the  lines,  but  the  British  forces  were  more  particularly  led  against  the  upper 
camp,  occupied  by  Major  Madison  and  Cols.  Lewis  and  Allen,  and  the  Indians 
against  the  lower  camp,  occupied  by  Col.  Wells.  The  British  were  unsuccessful 
at  their  part  of  the  lines,  where  the  Americans  fought  with  great  bravery,  and  were 

protected  very  much 
by  the  pickets,  which 
being  placed  at  some 
distance  from  the 
woods,  afforded  the 
Kentucky  riflemen  a 
fine  opportunity  t  o 
shoot  the  enemy  down 
as  they  were  advanc 
ing.  An  attempt  was 
then  made  by  the  Brit 
ish  to  use  a  field  piece 
just  at  the  edge  of  the 
woods,  by  which  they 
hoped  to  prostrate  the 
pickets  and  batter 
down  the  houses,  but 


SITE  OF  THE  STOCKADE  ON  THE  KIVEB  RAISIN. 

The  upper  camp  and  where  the  wounded  prisoners  were  massacred  after 
their  surrender,  was  on  the  site  of  the  large  house  on  the  extreme  left. 
The  site  of  the  lower  camp  appears  in  tho  distance  below.  The  view  was 
taken  from  the  railroad  bridge  on  the  Toledo,  Monroe  and  Detroit  R.E. 


the  Kentuckians  with  their  sharpshooters  picked  the  men  off  as  fast  as  they  at 
tempted  to  load  it,  so  that  they  were  forced  to  abandon  the  attack  and  suffer 'a  re 
pulse. 

While  these  things  were  happening  at  the  upper  camp,  a  far  different  state  of 
things  existed  at  the  lower  one.  The  attack  of  the  Indians  was  so  impetuous,  the 
position  so  indefensible,  and  the  American  force  so  inadequate,  consisting  of  only 
200  men,  that,  notwithstanding  the  bravery  of  Col.  Wells  and  his  men,  it  was  im 
possible  to  retain  the  position.  Cols.  Lewis  and  Allen  attempted  to  take  a  rein- 


MICHIGAN.  375 

forceinent  to  the  right  wing,  to  enable  Col.  Wells  to  retreat  up  the  river  on  the  ice, 
under  cover  of  the  high  bank,  to  the  upper  camp.  But  before  they  arrived  at  the 
lower  camp,  the  fire  of  the  savages  had  become  so  galling  that  Wells  was 
forced  to  abandon  his  position.  This  he  attempted  to  do  in  good  order,  but  as  soon 
as  his  men  began  to  give  way,  the  Indians  redoubled  their  cries  and  the  impetuos 
ity  of  their  attack,  so  that  the  retreat  speedily  became  a  rout.  In  this  condition 
they  were  met  by  Col.  Allen,  who  made  every  effort  to  call  them  to  order  and  lead 
them  in  safety  to  the  upper  camp.  But,  notwithstanding  the  heroic  exertions  of 
Col.  Allen,  and  his  earnest  protestations  and  'commands,  they  continued  their  dis 
ordered  flight,  and  from  some  unaccountable  reason,  probably  through  an  irre 
sistible  panic,  caused  by  the  terrible  cries  and  onslaught  of  the  savages,  instead 
of  continuing  up  the  river  to  the  upper  camp,  they  fled  diagonally  across 
to. the  Hull  road,  so  called,  which  led  to  Maumee,  and  attempted  to  escape 
to  Ohio.  And  now  the  flight  became  a  carnage.  The  Indians  seeing  the 
disorder  of  the  Americans,  who  thought  of  nothing  save  running  for  their 
lives,  and  escaping  the  tomahawks  of  the  savages,  having  warriors  posted  all 
along  the  woods  which  lined  or  were  within  a  short  distance  of  the  river,  now 
raised  the  cry  that  the  Americans  were  flying,  which  cry  was  echoed  by  thousands 
of  warriors,  who  all  rushed  to  the  spot  and  outstripped  the  fleeing  soldiers.  Some 
followed  them  closely  in  their  tracks  and  brained  them  with  their  tomahawks  from 
Dehind ;  some  posted  themselves  both  sides  of  the  narrow  road  and  shot  them 
down  as  they  passed ;  and  finally  some  got  in  advance,  and  headed  them  off  at 
Plumb  creek,  a  small  stream  about  a  mile  from  the  River  Raisin.  Here  the  panic 
stricken  soldiers,  who  had  thrown  away  most  of  their  arms  to  facilitate  their  flight, 
huddled  together  like  sheep,  with  the  brutal  foe  on  all  sides,  were  slaughtered,  and 
so  closely  were  they  hemmed  in,  that  tradition  says,  that  after  the  battle,  forty 
dead  bodies  were  found  lying  scalped  and  plundered  on  two  rods  square. 

Gen.  Winchester,  impressed  with  the  foolish  idea  that  an  attack  would  not  be 
made,  had  retired  the  night  before  without  having  made  any  arrangements  for 
safety  or  dispatch  in  case  of  an  attack.  Therefore  when  awakened  by  the  firing, 
he  and  his  aids  made  great  confusion,  all  crying  for  their  horses,  which  were  in 
Col.  Navarre's  stable,  the  servants  scarcely  awake  enough  to  equip  them  with  haste. 
The  luckless  commander  became  very  impatient  to  join  his  forces,  nearly  a  mile 
distant,  and,  to  gratify  his  desire,  Col.  Navarre  offered  him  his  best  and  fleetest 
horse,  which  had  been  kept  saddled  all  night,  as  Navarre,  in  common  with  all  the 
French  inhabitants,  expected  an  attack  before  morning.  On  this  horse  he  started 
for  the  camp,  but,  on  the  way,  finding  that  a  large  number  of  the  troops  were  then 
fleeing  on  the  Hull  road,  he  followed  after  them  to  rally  them,  and,  if  possible,  re 
gain  the  day,  but  on  his  way  he  was  taken  prisoner  by  an  Indian  (said  to  have 
been  Jack  Brandy),  who  knew  by  his  clothes  that  he  was  an  officer,  and  therefore 
spared  his  life.  Proctor  persuaded  the  Indian  to  deliver  him  over  into  his  hands. 
Col.  Allen  was  also  taken  prisoner  about  the  same  time;  he  had  behaved  with  ex 
traordinary  courage  during  the  whole  action,  although  wounded  in  the  thigh. 
He  was  finally  killed  by  an  Indian  while  held  a  prisoner. 

With  Winchester  as  his  prisoner,  Proctor  felt  that  he  could  dictate  terms  to  that 
portion  of  the  American  troops  under  the  command  of  Major  Madison  in  the  upper 
camp,  who  had  thus  far  made  a  successful  resistance.  Proctor  sent  with  a  flag 
one  of  Gen.  Winchester's  aids,  with  the  peremptory  orders  of  the  latter,  directing 
Major  Madison  to  surrender.  Col.  Proctor  had  demanded  an  immediate  surrender, 
or  he  would  burn  the  settlement,  and  allow  the  Indians  to  massacre  the  prisoners 
and  the  inhabitants  of  the  place.  Major  Madison  replied,  that  it  was  customary 
for  the  Indians  to  massacre  the  wounded  and  prisoners  after  a  surrender,  and  he 
would  not  agree  to  any  capitulation  Gen.  Winchester  might  make,  unless  the  safe 
ty  and  protection  of  his  men  were  guaranteed.  After  trying  in  vain  to  get  an  un 
conditional  surrender,  Major  Madison  and  his  men  being  disposed  to  sell  their  lives 
as  dearly  as  possible,  rather  than  run  the  risk  of  being  massacred  in  cold  blood, 
Proctor  agreed  to  the  terms  demanded,  which  were,  that  private  property  should 
be  respected,  that  sleds  should  be  sent  next  morning  to  take  the  sick  and  wounded 
to  Maiden,  and  that  their  side  arms  should  be  restored  to  the  officers  on  their  ar 
rival  there. 


376  MICHIGAN. 

These  terms  completed,  the  surrender  was  made,  and  the  prisoners  and  British 
and  Indians  started  for  Maiden :  not,  however,  until  the  Indians  had  violated  the 
first  article  of  the  agreement,  by  plundering  the  settlement.  But  finally  all  de 
parted,  except  the  sick  and  wounded  American  soldiers,  who  were  left  in  the  two 
houses  of  the  upper  camp,  to  await  the  coming  of  the  sleds  on  the  morrow.  Only 
two  or  three  persons  were  left  in  charge  of  them,  a  neglect  which  was  nearly  or 
quite  criminal  on  the  part  of  Proctor.  The  last  and  most  disgraceful  scene  in  this 
bloody  tragedy  was  yet  to  be  enacted.  The  sleds  that  were  to  take  the  ill-fated 
sufferers  to  Maiden  never  came.  In  their  stead  came,  the  next  morning,  300  In 
dians,  painted  black  and  red,  determined  on  massacreing  the  wounded  Americans, 
in  revenge  for  their  loss  the  day  before.  The  slaughter  soon  commenced  in  earn 
est.  Breaking  into  the  houses  where  the  Americans  were,  they  first  plundered 
and  then  tomahawked  them.  The  houses  were  set  on  fire,  and  those  within  were 
consumed;  if  any  attempted  to  crawl  out  of  the  doors  or  windows  they  were 
wounded  with  the  hatchet  and  pushed  back  into  the  flames :  those  that  happened 
to  be  outside  were  stricken  down,  and  their  dying  bodies  thrown  into  the  burning 
dwellings.  Major  Wolfolk,  the  secretary  of  Gen.  Winchester,  was  killed  in  the 
massacre.  Thus  ended  the  "Massacre  of  the  River  Raisin.1'  Thus  perished  in 
cold  blood  some  of  Kentucky's  noblest  heroes  :  their  death  filled  with  sorrow  many 
homes  south  of  the  Ohio.  No  monument  marks  the  place  of  their  death :  but  lit 
tle  is  known  of  the  private  history  of  those  brave  spirits  who  traversed  a  wilder 
ness  of  several  hundred  miles,  and  gave  up  their  lives  for  their  country :  who  died 
alone,  unprotected,  wounded,  in  a  settlement  far  from  the  abode  of  civilization. 

But  few  of  the  killed  were  ever  buried.  Their  bones  lay  bleaching  in  the  sun 
for  years.  On  the  4th  of  July,  1818,  a  company  of  men  under  the  charge  of  Col. 
Anderson,  an  old  settler  of  Frenchtown,  went  to  the  spot  of  the  battle  and  col 
lected  a  large  quantity  of  the  bones,  and  buried  them,  with  appropriate  ceremo 
nies,  in  the  old  graveyard  in  Monroe.  For  years  after,  however,  it  was  not  un 
common  to  find  a  skull,  fractured  by  the  fatal  tomahawk,  hidden  away  in  some 
clump  of  bushes,  where  the  dogs  and  wild  beasts  had  dragged  the  body  to  devour 
its  flesh. 

In  addition  to  the  preceding  communication,  we  annex  extracts  from  Dar- 
nall's  Journal  of  Winchester's  Campaign,  which  gives  additional  light  upon 
the  disaster  of  the  River  Raisin : 

Jan.  19th.  Frenchtown  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  this  river,  not  more  than  three 
miles  from  the  place  it  empties  into  Lake  Erie.  There  is  a  row  of  dwelling  houses,  about 
twenty  in  number,  principally  frame,  near  the  bank,  surrounded  with  a  fence  made  in  the 
form  of  picketing,  with  split  timber,  from  four  to  five  feet  high.  This  was  «ot  designed 
as  a  fortification,  but  to  secure  their  yards  and  gardens. 

21s/.  A  reinforcement  of  two  hundred  and  thirty  men  arrived  in  the  afternoon:  also 
Gen.  Winchester,  Col.  Wells,  Major  M'Clanahan,  Capt.  Hart,  Surgeons  Irvin  and  Mont 
gomery,  and  some  other  gentlemen,  who  came  to  eat  apples  and  drink  cider,  having  been 
deprived  of  every  kind  of  spirits  nearly  two  months.  The  officers  having  viewed  and  laid 
off  a  piece  of  ground  for  a  camp  and  breastworks,  resolved  that  it  was  too  late  to  remove 
and  erect  fortifications  that  evening.  Further,  as  they  resolved  to  remove  early  next  day, 
it  was  not  thought  worth  while,  though  materials  were  at  hand,  to  fortify  the  right  wing, 
which  therefore  encamped  in  the  open  field;  this  want  of  precaution  was  a  great  cause  of 
our  mournful  defeat.  Col.  Wells,  their  commander,  set  out  for  the  Rapids  late  in  the 
evening.  A  Frenchman  arrived  here  late  in  the  evening  from  Maiden,  and  stated  that  a 
large  number  of  Indians  and  British  were  coming  on  the  ice,  with  artillery,  to  attack  us; 
he  judged  their  number  to  be  three  thousand;  this  was  not  believed  by  some  of  our  lead 
ing  men,  who  were  regaling  themselves  with  whisky  and  loaf  sugar;  but  the  generality  of 
the  troops  put  great  confidence  in  the  Frenchman's  report,  and  expected  some  fatal  disas 
ter  to  befall  us;  principally  because  Gen.  Winchester  had  taken  up  his  head-quarters  near 
ly  half  a  mile  from  any  part  of  the  encampment,  and  because  the  right  wing  was  exposed. 
En<ign  Harrow,  who  was  sent  with  a  party  of  men,  some  time  after  night,  by  the  orders 
of  Col.  Lewis,  to  bring  in  all  the  men,  either  officers  or  privates,  that  he  might  find  out 
of  their  quarters;  after  finding  some  and  giving  them  their  orders,  went  to  a  brick  house 
about  :i  mile  up  the  river,  and  entered  a  room;  finding  it  not  occupied,  he  immediately 
went  above  stairs,  and  saw  two  men  whom  he  took  to  be  British  officers,  talking  with  the 
landlord;  the  landlord  asked  him  to  walk  down  into  a  store  room,  and  handing  his  bottle, 
asked  him  to  drink,  and  informed  him  "  there  was  no  danger,  for  the  British  had  not  a 


MICHIGAN-.  377 

force  sufficient  to  whip  us."  So  Harrow  returned  about  1  o'clock,  and  reported  to  Col. 
Lewis  what  he  had  seen.  Col.  Lewis  treated  the  report  with  coolness,  thinking  the  per 
sons  seen  were  only  some  gentlemen  from  town.  Just  at  daybreak  the  reveille  began  to 
beat  as  usual;  this  gave  joy  to  the  troops,  who  had  passed  the  night  under  the  apprehen 
sions  of  being  attacked  before  day.  The  reveille  had  not  been  beating  more  than  two 
minutes,  before  the  sentinels  fired  three  guns  in  quick  succession.  This  alarmed  our 
troops,  who  quickly  formed,  and  were  ready  for  the  enemy  before  they  were  near  enough 
to  do  execution.  The  British  immediately  discharged  their  artillery,  loaded  with  balls, 
bombs,  and  grape-shot,  which  did  little  injury.  They  then  attempted  to  make  a  charge  on 
those  in  the  pickets,  but  were  repulsed  with  great  loss.  Those  on  the  right  being  less 
secure  for  the  want  of  fortification,  were  overpowered  by  a  superior  force,  and  were  ordered 
to  retreat  to  a  more  advantageous  piece  of  ground.  They  got  in  disorder,  and  could  not 
be  formed.*  The  Indians  pursued  them  from  all  quarters,  and  surrounded,  killed,  and 
took  the  most  of  them.  The  enemy  again  charged  on  the  left  with  redoubled  vigor,  but 
were  again  forced  to  retire.  Our  men  lay  close  behind  the  picketing,  through  which  they 
had  port  holes,  and  every  one  having  a  rest,  took  sight,  that  his  ammunition  might  not  be 
spent  in  vain.  After  a  long  and  bloody  contest,  the  enemy  finding  they  could  not  either 
by  stratagem  or  force  drive  us  from  our  fortification,  retired  to  the  woods,  leaving  their 
dead  on  the  ground  (except  a  party  that  kept  two  pieces  of  cannon  in  play  on  our  right.) 
A  sleigh  was  seen  three  or  four  hundred  yards  from  our  lines  going  toward  the  right,  sup 
posed  to  be  laden  with  ammunition  to  supply  the  cannon;  four  or  five  men  rose  up  and 
fired  at  once,  and  killed  the  man  and  wounded  the  horse.  Some  Indians  who  were  hid 
behind  houses,  continued  to  annoy  us  with  scattering  balls.  At  this  time  bread  from  the 
commissary's  house  was  handed  round  among  our  troops,  who  sat  composedly  eating  and 
watching  the  enemy  at  the  same  time.  Being  thus  refreshed,  we  discovered  a  white  flag 
advancing  toward  us;  it  was  generally  supposed  to  be  for  a  cessation  of  arms,  that  our  ene- 
jnies  might  carry  off  their  dead,  which  were  numerous,  although  they  had  been  bearing 
tiway  both  dead  and  wounded  during  the  action.  But  how  were  we  surprised  and  mortified 
when  we  heard  that  Gen.  Winchester,  with  Col.  Lewis,  had  been  taken  prisoners  by  the 
Indians  in  attempting  to  rally  the  right  wing,  and  that  Gen.  Winchester  had  surrendered 
us  prisoners  of  war  to  Col.  Proctor!  Major  Madison,  then  the  highest  in  command,  did  not 
agree  to  this  until  Col.  Proctor  had  promised  that  the  prisoners  should  be  protected  from 
the  Indians,  the  wounded  taken  care  of,  the  dead  collected  and  buried,  and  private  proper 
ty  respected.  It  was  then,  with  extreme  reluctance,  our  troops  accepted  this  proposition. 
There  was  scarcely  a  person  that  could  refrain  from  shedding  tears!  some  plead  with  the 
officers  not  to  surrender,  saying  they  would  rather  die  on  the  field!  We  had  only  five 
killed,  and  twenty-five  or  thirty  wounded,  inside  of  the  pickets. 

The  British  collected  their  troops,  and  marched  in  front  of  the  village.  We  marched 
out  and  grounded  our  arms,  in  heat  and  bitterness  of  spirit.  The  British  and  Indians  took 
possession  of  them.  All  the  prisoners,  except  those  that  were  badly  wounded,  Dr.  Todd, 
Dr.  Bowers,  and  a  few  attendants,  were  marched  toward  Maiden.  The  British  said,  as 
they  had  a  great  many  of  their  wounded  to  take  to  Maiden  that  evening,  it  would  be  out 
of  their  power  to  take  ours  before  morning,  but  they  would  leave  a  sufficient  guard  so  that 
they  should  not  be  interrupted  by  the  Indians. 

As  they  did  not  leave  the  PROMISED  GUARD,  I  lost  all  confidence  in  them,  and  expected 
we  would  all  be  massacred  before  morning.  I  being  the  only  person  in  this  house  not 
wounded,  with  the  assistance  of  some  of  the  wounded,  I  prepared  something  for  about 
thirty  to  eat. 

We  passed  this  night  under  the  most  serious  apprehensions  of  being  massacred  by  the 
tomahawk,  or  consumed  in  the  flames: — I  frequently  went  out  to  see  if  the  house  was  set 
on  fire.  At  length  the  long  wished  for  morn  arrived,  and  filled  each  heart  with  a  cheerful 
hope  of  being  delivered  from  the  cruelty  of  these  merciless  savages.  We  were  making 
every  preparation  to  be  ready  for  the  promised  sleighs.  But,  alas!  instead  of  the  sleighs, 
about  an  hour  by  sun,  a  great  number  of  savages,  painted  with  various  colors,  came  yell 
ing  in  the  most  hideous  manner!  These  blood-thirsty,  terrific  savages  (sent  here  by  their 
more  cruel  and  perfidious  allies,  the  British),  rushed  into  the  houses  where  the  desponding 
wounded  lay,  and  insolently  stripped  them  of  their  blankets,  and  all  their  best  clothes,  and 
ordered  them  out  of  the  houses!  I  ran  out  of  the  house  to  inform  the  interpreters  t  what 
the  Indians  were  doing;  at  the  door,  an  Indian  took  my  hat  and  put  it  on  his  own  head;  I 

*  When  the  right  wing  began  to  retreat,  it  is  said  orders  were  given  by  some  of  the  officers 
to  the  men  in  the  eastern  end  of  the  picketing,  to  march  out  to  their  assistance.  Captain 
Price,  and  a  number  of  men  sallied  out.  Captain  Price  was  killed,  and  most  of  the  men. 

fl  was  since  informed  that  Col.  Elliott  instructed  the  interpreters  to  leave  the  wounded, 
after  dark,  to  the  mercy  of  the  savages.  They  all  went  off  except  one  half-Indian. 


378  MICHIGAN. 

then  discovered  that  the  Indians  had  been  at  the  other  house  first,  and  had  used  the 
wounded  in  like  manner.  As  I  turned  to  go  back  into  the  house,  an  Indian  taking  hold 
of  me,  made  signs  for  me  to  stand  by  the  corner  of  the  house.  I  made  signs  to  him  I 
wanted  to  go  in  and  get  my  hat;  for  I  desired  to  see  what  they  had  done  with  the  wounded. 
The  Indians  sent  in  a  boy  who  brought  out  a  hat  and  threw  it  down  to  me,  and  I  could  not 
get  in  the  house.  Three  Indians  came  up  to  me  and  pulled  off  my  coat.  My  feeble  pow 
ers  can  not  describe  the  dismal  scenes  here  exhibited.  I  saw  my  fellow  soldiers  naked  and 
wounded,  crawling  out  of  the  houses,  to  avoid  being  consumed  in  the  flames.  Some  that 
had  not  been  able  to  turn  themselves  on  their  beds  for  four  days,  through  fear  of  being 
burned  to  death,  arose  and  walked  out  and  about  the  yard.  Some  cried  for  help,  but  there 
was  none  to  help  them.  "Ah!  "  exclaimed  numbers,  irfthe  anguish  of  their  spirit,  "  what 
shall  we  do?  "  A  number,  unable  to  get  out,  miserably  perished  in  the  unrelenting  flames 
of  the  houses,  kindled  by  the  more  unrelenting  savages.  Now  the  scenes  of  cruelty  and 
murder  we  had  been  anticipating  with  dread,  during  last  night,  fully  commenced.  The 
savages  rushed  on  the  wounded,  and,  in  their  barbarous  manner,  shot  and  tomahawked,  and 
scalped  them;  and  cruelly  mangled  their  naked  bodies  while  they  lay  agonizing  and  wel 
tering  in  their  blood.  A  number  were  taken  toward  Maiden,  but  being  unable  to  march 
with  speed,  were  inhumanly  massacred.  The  road  was,  for  miles,  strewed  with  the  mangled 
bodies,  and  all  of  them  were  left  like  those  slain  in  battle,  on  the  22d,  for  birds  and  beasts 
to  tear  in  pieces  and  devour.  The  Indians  plundered  the  town  of  every  thing  valuable, 
and  set  the  best  houses  on  fire.  The  Indian  who  claimed  me,  gave  me  a  coat,  and  when 
he  had  got  as  much  plunder  as  he  could  carry,  he  ordered  me,  by  signs,  to  march,  which  I 
did  with  extreme  reluctance,  in  company  with  three  of  the  wounded,  and  six  or  seven  In 
dians.  In  traveling  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  two  of  the  wounded  lagged  behind  about 
twenty  yards.  The  Indians,  turning  round,  shot  one  and  sc'alped  him.  They  shot  at  the 
other  and  missed  him;  he,  running  up  to  them,  begged  that  they  would  not  shoot  him.  He 
said  he  would  keep  up,  and  give  them  money.  But  these  murderers  were  not  moved  with 
his  doleful  cries.  They  shot  him  down,  and  rushing  on  him  in  a  crowd,  scalped  him.  In 
like  manner,  my  brother  Allen  perished.  He  marched  with  difficulty  after  the  wounded, 
about  two  or  three  hundred  yards,  and  was  there  barbarously  murdered. 

In  traveling  two  miles,  we  came  to  a  house  where  there  were  two  Britisli  officers;  the 
Indian  made  a  halt,  and  I  asked  one  of  the  officers  what  the  Indian  was  going  to  do  with 
me;  he  said  he  was  going  to  take  me  to  Amherstburgh  (or  Maiden.)  I  judged  these  vil 
lains  had  instructed  the  Indians  to  do  what  they  had  done 

During  my  captivity  with  the  Indians,  the  other  prisoners  were  treated  very  inhumanly. 
The  first  night  they  were  put  in  a  woodyard;  the  rain  commenced  early  in  the  night  and 
put  out  all  their  fires;  in  this  manner  they  passed  a  tedious  night,  wet  and  benumbed  with 
cold.  From  this  place  they  were  taken  to  a  cold  warehouse,  still  deprived  of  fire,  with 
their  clothes  and  blankets  frozen,  and  nothing  to  eat  but  a  little  bread.  In  this  wretched 
condition  they  continued  two  days  and  three  nights. 

Captain  Hart,  who  was  among  those  massacred,  was  the  brother-in-law  of 
Henry  Clay.  Timothy  Mallary,  in  his  narrative  of  his  captivity,  says  on 
this  point: 

The  Indians  ordered  several  other  prisoners  and  myself  to  march  for  Maiden.  "We  had 
not  proceeded  far  before  they  tomahawked  four  of  this  number,  amongst  whom  was  Capt. 
Hart,  of  Lexington.  He  had  hired  an  Indian  to  take  him  to  Maiden.  I  saw  part  of  this 
hire  paid  to  the  Indian.  After  having  taken  him  some  distance,  another  Indian  demanded 
him,  saying  that  he  was  his  prisoner;  the  hireling  would  not  give  him  up;  the  claimant, 
finding  that  he  could  not  get  him  alive,  shot  him  in  the  left  side  with  a  pistol.  Captain 
Hart  still  remained  on  his  horse;  the  claimant  then  ran  up,  struck  him  with  a  tomahawk, 
pulled  him  off  his  horse,  scalped  him,  and  left  him  lying  there. 

Hon.  B.  F.  H.  Witherell,  of  Detroit,  in  his  Reminiscences,  gives  some 
facts  upon  the  inhuman  treatment  of  the  prisoners  taken  at  the  River  Raisin. 
He  says : 

Our  fellow-citizen,  Oliver  Bellair,  Esq.,  at  that  time  a  boy,  resided  with  his  parents  at 
Maiden.  He  states  that,  when  the  prisoners,  some  three  or  four  hundred  in  number,  ar 
rived  at  Maiden,  they  were  pictures  of  misery.  A  long,  cold  march  from  the  states  in 
mid  winter,  camping  out  in  the  deep  snow,  the  hard-fought  battle  and  subsequent  robbery 
of  their  effects,  left  them  perfectly  destitute  of  any  comforts.  Many  of  the  prisoners  were 
also  slightly  wounded;  the  blood,  dust,  and  smoke  of  battle  were  yet  upon  them.  At 
Maiden,  they  were  driven  into  an  open  woodyard,  and,  without  tents  or  covering  of  any 
kind,  thinly  clad,  they  endured  the  bitter  cold  of  a  long  January  night;  but  they  were 
soldiers  of  the  republic,  and  suffered  without  murmuring  at  their  hard  lot.  They  were 


MICHIGAN. 


379 


surrounded  by  a  strong  chain  of  sentinels,  to  prevent  their  escape,  and  to  keep  the  savages 
off,  who  pressed  hard  to  enter  the  inclosure.  The  inhabitants  of  the  village,  at  night,  in 
large  numbers,  sympathizingly  crowded  around,  and  thus  favored  the  escape  of  a  few  of 
the  prisoners. 

The  people  of  Maiden  were  generally  kind  to  prisoners.  It  is  not  in  the  nature  of  a 
Frenchman  to  be  otherwise  than  kind  to  the  suffering. 

Mr.  Bellair  tells  me,  that,  at  the  time  these  prisoners  were  brought  into  Maiden,  the  vil 
lage  presented  a  horrid  spectacle.  The  Indians  had  cut  off  the  heads  of  those  who  had 
fallen  in  the  battle  and  massacre,  to  the  number  of  a  hundred  or  more,  brought  them  to 
Maiden,  and  stuck  them  up  in  rows  on  the  top  of  a  high,  sharp-pointed  picket  fence;  and 
there  they  stood,  their  matted  locks  deeply  stained  with  their  own  gore — their  eyes  wide 
open,  staring  out  upon  the  multitude,  exhibiting  all  variety  of  feature;  some  with  a  pleas 
ant  smile;  others,  who  had  probably  lingered  long  in  mortal  agony,  had  a  scowl  of  de 
fiance,  despair,  or  revenge;  and  others  wore  the  appearance  of  deep  distress  and  sorrow — 
they  may  have  died  thinking  of  their  far-off  wives  and  children,  and  friends,  and  pleasant 
homes  which  they  should  visit  no  more;  the  winter's  frost  had  fixed  their  features  as  they 
died,  and  thev  changed  not. 

The  savages  had  congregated  in  large  numbers,  and  had  brought  back  with  them  from 
the  bloody  banks  of  the  Raisin,  and  other  parts  of  our  frontiers,  immense  numbers  of 
scalps,  strung  upon  poles,  among  which  might  be  seen  the  soft,  silky  locks  of  young  chil 
dren,  the  ringlets  and  tresses  of  fair  maidens,  the  burnished  locks  of  middle  life,  and  the 
silver  gray  of  age.  The  scalps  were  hung  some  twenty  together  on  a  pole;  each  was  ex 
tended  by  a  small  hoop  around  the  edge,  and  they  were  all  painted  red  on  the  flesh  side, 
and  were  carried  about  the  town  to  the  music  of  the  war-whoop  and  the  scalp-yell. 

That  the  British  government  and  its  officers  did  not  attempt  to  restrain  the  savages  is 
well  known;  on  the  contrary,  they  were  instigated  to  the  commission  of  these  barbarous 
deeds.  Among  the  papers  of  Gen.  Proctor,  captured  at  the  battle  of  the  Thames,  was 
found  a  letter  from  Gen.  Brock  to  Proctor,  apparently  in  answer  to  one  asking  whether  he 
should  restrain  the  ferocity  of  the  savages.  The  reply  was:  "  The  Indians  are  necessary 
to  his  Majesty's  service,  and  must  be  indulged."  If  the  gallant  Brock  would  tolerate  the 
atrocious  conduct  of  his  savage  allies,  what  could  be  expected  from  others? 


The  State  Asylum  for  Deaf  Mutes  and  the  Blind,  Flint. 

The  cut  shown  the  west  front  of  the  Asylum.  (Inscription  on  the  corner  stone.)  1857.  Erected  by  t3i» 
State  of  Michigan.  J.  B.  Walker,  Building  Commissioner ;  J.  T.  Johnson,  foreman  of  the  mason  work; 
K.  Vantifflin,  foreman  of  the  joiner  work. 

FLINT,  the  county  seat  for  Genesee  county,  on  both  sides  of  the  river  of 
its  own  name,  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  46 
miles  E.N.E.  from  Lansing,  and  58  N.W.  from  Detroit.  It  has  considerable 
water  power.  The  Michigan  Asylum  for  Deaf  Mu*es  and  the  Blind, 
one  of  the  most  elegant  and  beautiful  buildings  in  the  state,  is  at  this 
place.  The  city  was  incorporated  in  1855,  comprising  three  localities  or 
villages,  viz:  Flint,  Flint  River,  and  Grand  Traverse.  Population  about 
4,000. 


380  MICHIGAN. 

In  1832,  Olmsted  Chamberlin  and  Gideon  O.  Whittemore,  of  Oakland,  Mich., 
made  a  location  in  Flint  of  40  acres,  and  Levi  Gilkey,  of  50  acres.  John  Todd, 
with  his  wife,  originally  Miss  P.  M.  Smith,  of  Cayuga  county,  New  York,  with 
their  children,  Edwin  A.  and  Mary  L.  Todd,  were  the  first  white  settlers  of  Flint 
They  arrived  here  April  18,  1833,  with  two  wagons,  on  the  second  day  after  leav 
ing  Pontiac.  They  moved  into  a  log  hut  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  then  a  trading 
house,  a  few  rods  from  the  bridge,  and  used  afterward  as  a  stopping  place.  The 
next  regular  settler  was  Nathaniel  Ladd,  who  located  himself  on  Smith's  reserva 
tion,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  in  a  hut  which  had  been  occupied  by  two  In 
dian  traders.  Lyman  Stow,  from  Vermont,  who  bought  out  Mr.  Ladd,  came  next. 
At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Todd,  the  whole  country  here  was  an  entire  for 
est,  excepting  a  small  tract  cleared  by  the  Indian  traders.  The  silence  of  the  wil 
derness  was  nightly  broken  by  the  howling  of  wolves.  The  "  wild  forest  serenade," 
as  not  inaptly  termed  by  Mrs.  Todd,  began  with  a  slight  howl,  striking,  as  it  were, 
the  key  note  of  the  concert ;  this  was  soon  succeeded  by  others  of  a  louder  tone, 
which,  still  rising  higher  and  louder,  the  whole  forest  finally  resounded  with  one 
almost  continuous  yell. 

In  1834,  there  were  only  four  buildings  at  this  place,  then  without  a  name:  at 
this  period  there  was  a  fort  at  Saginaw,  and  the  U.  S.  government  was  opening  a 
military  road  from  Detroit  to  Saginaw.  They  had  just  built  the  first  bridge  across 
Flint  Kiver,  where  previously  all  travelers  had  been  ferried  over  in  an  Indian 
canoe.  Among  the  first  settlers  was  Col.  Cronk,  from  New  York,  who  bought  land 
for  his  children,  among  whom  were  James  Cronk,  who  died  in  the  Mexican  war, 
and  his  son-in-law,  Elijah  Davenport,  now  Judge  Davenport,  of  Saginaw.  Col. 
Cronk  died  at  the  house  of  John  Todd,  after  an  illness  of  eight  days.  He  was  dis 
tinguished  for  his  affability  and  benevolence,  and  was  much  respected.  The  first 
religious  meeting  was  held  by  Rev.  O.  F.  North,  a  Methodist  traveling  preacher,  at 
the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Todd,  who  built  a  frame  house  the  fall  after  his  arrival ;  the 
lumber  used  was  sawed  at  Thread  mill,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Flint. 
Rev.  W.  H.  Brockway,  an  Indian  missionary,  was  for  a  time  the  only  regular 
preacher  in  the  wide  range  of  the  counties  of  Lapeer,  Genesee,  Shiawasse,  and 
{Saginaw.  He  traveled  on  foot,  and  usually  alone.  Once  in  four  weeks  he  visited 
Flint,  and  preached  in  Todd's  log  cabin,  afterward  in  a  room  over  the  store  of 

&  Wright.  Daniel  Sullivan  commenced  the  first  school  near  the  close  of 

1834,  and  had  some  10  or  12  scholars,  comprising  all  the  white  children  in  the 
neighborhood.  His  compensation  was  ten  cents  weekly  for  each  scholar.  Miss 
Lucy  Riggs,  the  daughter  of  Judge  Riggs,  it  is  believed,  was  the  first  female  teacher; 
she  kept  her  school-  in  a  kind  of  shanty  in  Main-street,  some  60  or  70  rods  from 
the  river. 

The^wnship  of  Flint  was  organized  under  the  territorial  government,  in  1836. 
The  first  election  for  township  officers  was  held  in  the  blacksmith  shop  of  Kline  & 
Freeman,  Rufus  W.  Stephens,  acting  as  moderator,  and  David  Mather  as  clerk. 
The  first  church  erected  was  the  Presbyterian :  it  stood  on  Poney  Row,  a  street 
said  to  have  been  named  from  the  circumstance  that,  at  an  early  period,  a  number 
of  men  who  lived  there  were  short  of  stature.  The  Episcopalians  erected  the 
second  church ;  Rev.  Mr.  Brown  was  their  first  minister.  The  Methodist  church 
was  the  third  erected,  the  Catholic  the  fourth,  and  the  Baptist  the  fifth,  the  first 
minister  of  which  was  the  Rev.  Mr.  Gamble.  The  Episcopal  church  of  St.  Paul 
was  raised  in  1844.  The  present  Methodist  church  was  built  in  1845.  The  Pres 
byterian  church  was  erected  about  the  year  1847.  The  first  regular  physician  was 
John  Hayes,  from  Massachusetts ;  the  second  was  Dr.  Lamond.  The  first  printing 
press  was  introduced  about  1836;  the  "Genesee  Whig"  was  established  in  1850; 
the  first  newspaper  printed  by  steam  power  was  the  "Wolverine  Citizen,"  by  F.  H. 
Rankin,  a  native  of  Ireland. 

GRAND  RAPIDS,  first  settled  in  1833,  laid  out  as  a  village  in  1836,  and  in 
corporated  in  1850,  is  the  second  city  in  importance  in  Michigan.  It  is  the 
county  seat  of  Kent  county,  on  the  line  of  the  Detroit  and  Milwaukie  Rail 
road,  at  the  Rapids  of  Grand  River;  60  miles  W.  N.W.  of  Lansing,  and  150 
from  Detroit. 


MICHIGAN. 


381 


Grand  River  is  here  about  900  feet  wide,  and  has  a  fall  of  18  feet,  which 
gives  an  immense  water  power.  The  city  contains  a  large  number  of  mills 
of  various  kinds,  as  flouring,  saw,  plaster;  also  founderies,  lime-kilns,  lum 
ber  dealers,  marble  gypsum,  gravel  sand,  and  manufactories  of  staves,  hubs, 
etc.  Building  material  of  every  description  is  found  in  the  neighborhood, 
and  also  salt  springs  of  extraordinary  strength,  far  greater  than  those  at 
Syracuse,  requiring  but  29  gallons  to  produce  a  bushel  of  salt. 

The  manufacture  of  salt,  now  in  its  infancy  here,  is  destined  to  work  mar 
velous  changes  in  this 
region  of  country. — 
"Grand  Rapids  also  has 
in  its  vicinity  inexhausti 
ble  quarries  of  the  finest 
gypsum,  of  which  20,000 
tuns  per  annum  are  al 
ready  used  in  agriculture 
by  the  farmers  of  Michi 
gan,  which  amount  will 
be  doubled,  and  soon 
trebled,  on  the  construc 
tion  of  the  north  and 
south  land-grant  road 
from  Indiana  through 
Kalamazoo  and  Grand 
Rapids,  to  some  point 
near  Mackinaw,  of  which 
road  a  part  has  already 
been  graded." 

Grand  Rapids  now  has 
a    population    of    about 

VIEW  IN  MONROE-STREET,  GRAND  RAPIDS.  10,000,  and    it  ^is  the   re 

mark  of  the  editor  of  the 

New  York  Tribune,  after  visiting  this  place,  that  in  view  of  its  natural  ad 
vantages,  he  shall  be  disappointed  if  the  census  of  1870  does  not  swell  its 
population  to  50,000. 

Grand  Rapids  is  a  handsome  city,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  energy  and 
enterprise  of  its  population.  It  is  the  great  seat  of  the  lumber  trade  in  west 
ern  Michigan.  This  being  a  branch  of  industry  of  primary  importance,  not 
•  mly  to  this  point,  but  to  the  whole  state,  we  introduce  here  an  extract  from 
n  recent  article  in  the  Detroit  Tribune,  from  the  pen  of  Kay  Haddock,  Esq., 
(ts  commercial  editor,  which  will  give  an  idea  of  the  amount  of  wealth  Michi 
gan  possesses  in  her  noble  forests.  These  although  repelling  the  early  emi 
grants  to  the  west,  in  view  of  the  easy  tillable  lands  of  the  prairie  states,  will 
in  the  end  add  to  her  substantial  progress,  and  educate  for  her  a  population 
rendered  more  hardy  by  the  manly  toil  required  to  clear  up  and  subdue  vast 
forests  of  the  heaviest  of  timber.  Careful  estimates  show  that,  in  prosper 
ous  times,  the  annual  products  of  the  pineries  of  the  state  even  now  amount 
to  about  TEN  MILLIONS  of  dollars. 

Tt  is  now  almost  universally  admitted  that  the  state  of  Michigan  possesses  in 
her  soil  and  timber  the  material  source  of  immense  wealth.  While  in  years  past 
it  has  been  difficult  to  obtain  satisfactory  information  concerning  the  real  condi 
tion  and  natural  resources  of  a  large  portion  of  the  surface  of  the  Lower  Penin 
sula,  the  re-survey  of  portions  of  the  government  land,  the  exploration  of  the  COUD- 


382 


MICHIGAN. 


try  by  parties  in  search  of  pine,  the  developments  made  by  the  exploring  and  sur 
veying  parties  along  the  lines  of  the  Land  Grant  Railroads,  and  the  more  recent 
examinations  by  the  different  commissions  for  laying  out  the  several  state  roads 
under  the  acts  passed  by  the  last  legislature,  have  removed  every  doubt  in  refer 
ence  to  the  subject.  The  universal  testimony  from  all  the  sources  above  mentioned, 
seem  to  be  that  in  all  the  natural  elements  of  wealth  the  whole  of  the  northern 
part  of  the  peninsula  abounds. 

The  pine  lands  of  the  state,  which  are  a  reliable  source  of  present  and  future 
wealth,  are  so  located  and  distributed  as  to  bring  almost  every  portion  of  the^state, 
sooner  or  later  in  connection  with  the  commerce  of  the  lakes.  The  pine  timber 

of  Michigan  is  generally  interspersed 
with  other  varieties  of  timber,  such 
as  beech,  maple,  whiteash,  oak,  cher 
ry,  etc.,  and  in  most  cases  the  soil  is 
suited  to  agricultural  purposes.  This 
is  particularly  the  case  on  the  west 
ern  slope  of  the  peninsula,  on  the 
waters  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  along 
the  central  portion  of  the  state.  On 
the  east  and  near  Lake  Huron,  the 
pine  districts  are  more  extensively 
covered  with  pine  timber,  and  gener 
ally  not  so  desirable  for  farming  pur 
poses.  There  are  good  farming  lands, 
however,  all  along  the  coast  of  Lake 
LUMBERMAN'S  CAMP,  Huron  and  extending  back  into  the 

In  the  Pine  Forests  of  Michigan.  interior. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  pine  lands 

of  the  state  are  in  the  hands  of  the  Canal  Company,  and  individuals  who  are  hold 
ing  them  as  an  investment,  and  it  is  no  detriment  to  this  great  interest,  that  the 
whole  state  has  been  thus  explored,  and  the  choicest  lands  secured.  The  develop 
ments  which  have  thus  been  made  of  the  quality  and  extent  of  the  pine  districts, 
have  given  stability  and  confidence  to  the  lumbering  interest.  And  these  lands 
are  not  held  at  exorbitant  prices,  but  are  sold  upon  fair  and  reasonable  terms,  such 
as  practical  business  men  and  lumbermen  will  not  usually  object  to. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  almost  every  stream  of  water  in  the  state,  north  of 
Grand  River,  penetrates  a  district  of  pine  lands,  and  the  mouths  of  nearly  all  these 
streams  are  already  occupied  with  lumbering  establishments  of  greater  or  less 
magnitude.  These  lumber  colonies  are  the  pioneers,  and  generally  attract  around 
them  others  who  engage  in  agriculture,  and  thus  almost  imperceptibly  the  agricul 
tural  interests  of  the  state  are  spreading  and  developing  in  every  direction.  The 
want  of  suitable  means  of  access  alone  prevents  the  rapid  settlement  of  large  and 
fertile  districts  of  our  state,  which  are  not  unknown  to  the  more  enterprising  and 
persevering  pioneers,  who  have  led  the  way  through  the  wilderness,  and  are  now 
engaged  almost  single-handed  in  their  labors,  not  shrinking  from  the  privations  and 
sufferings  which  are  sure  to  surround  these  first  settlements  in  our  new  districts. 

The  Grand  Traverse  region,  with  its  excellent  soil,  comparatively  mild  climate, 
and  abundance  of  timber  of  every  description  is  attracting  much  attention,  and 
extensive  settlements  have  already  commenced  in  many  localities  in  that  region. 
The  coast  of  Lake  Michigan,  from  Grand  River  north,  for  upward  of  one  hundred 
miles  to  Manistee  River,  presents  generally  a  barren,  sandy  appearance,  the  sand 
hills  of  that  coast  almost  invariably  shutting  out  from  the  view  the  surrounding 
country. 

North  of  the  Manistee,  however,  this  characteristic  of  the  coast  changes,  and 
the  hard  timber  comes  out  to  the  lake,  and  presents  a  fine  region  of  country  ex 
tending  from  Lake  Michigan  to  Grand  Traverse  Bay  and  beyond,  embracing  the 
head  waters  of  the  Manistee  River.  This  large  tract  of  agricultural  land  is  one 
of  the  richest  portions  of  the  state,  and  having  throughout  its  whole  extent  ex 
tensive  groves  of  excellent  pine  timber  interspersed,  it  is  one  of  the  most  desirable 
portions  of  the  peninsula.  Grand  Traverse  Bay,  the  Manistee  River,  and  the 


MICHIGAN. 

River  Aux  Bees  Scies  are  the  outlets  for  the  pine  timber,  and  afford  ample  means 
of  communication  between  the  interior  and  the  lake  for  such  purposes.  The 
proposed  state  roads  will,  if  built,  do  much  toward  the  settlement  of  this  region. 

A  natural  harbor,  which  is  being  improved  by  private  enterprise,  is  found  at  the 
mouth  of  the  River  Aux  Bees  Scies,  and  a  new  settlement  and  town  has  been 
started  at  this  point.  This  is  a  natural  outlet  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  re 
gion  just  described.  The  lands  here,  as  in  other  localities  in  the  new  portions  of 
the  state,  are  such  as  must  induce  a  rapid  settlement  whenever  the  means  of  com 
munication  shall  be  opened. 

The  valley  of  the  Muskegon  embraces  every  variety  of  soil  and  timber,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  attractive  portions  of  the  peninsula.  The  pine  lands  upon  this 
river  are  scattered  all  along  the  valley  in  groups  or  tracts  containing  several  thous 
and  acres  each,  interspersed  with  hard  timber  and  surrounded  by  fine  agricultural 
lands.  The  Pere  Marquette  River  and  White  River,  large  streams  emptying  into 
Lake  Michigan,  pass  through  a  region  possessing  much  the  same  characteristics. 
This  whole  region  is  underlaid  with  lime  rock,  a  rich  soil,  well  watered  with  living 
springs,  resembling  in  many  features  the  Grand  River  valley.  Beds  of  gypsum 
have  been  discovered  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Pere  Marquette.  The  unsettled 
counties  in  the  northern  portion  of  the  state,  the  northern  portion  of  Montcalm, 
and  Gratiot,  Isabella,  Gladwin,  Clare,  and  a  portion  of  Midland,  are  not  inferior  to 
any  other  portion.  There  is  a  magnificent  body  of  pine  stretching  from  the  head 
of  Flat  River,  in  Montcalm  county,  to  the  upper  waters  of  the  Tettibewassee,  and 
growing  upon  a  fine  soil,  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  This  embraces  a  portion  of 
the  Saginaw  valley,  and  covers  the  high  ground  dividing  the  waters  of  Lakes  Huron 
and  Michigan. 

The  eastern  slope  of  the  peninsula  embraces  a  variety  of  soil  and  timber  some 
what  different  in  its  general  features  from  other  portions  of  the  state.  The  pine 
lands  of  this  region  are  near  the  coast  of  the  lake,  and  lie  in  large  tracts,  but  with 
good  agricultural  land  adjoining. 

There  are  in  the  lower  peninsula,  in  round  numbers,  about  24,000,000  acres  of 
land.  Taking  Houghton  Lake,  near  the  center  of  the  state,  as  a  point  of  view,  the 
general  surface  may  be  comprehended  as  follows :  The  Muskegon  valley  to  the 
south-west,  following  the  Muskegon  River  in  its  course  to  Lake  Michigan.  The 
western  slope  of  the  peninsula  directly  west,  embracing  the  pine  and  agricultural 
districts  along  the  valleys  of  several  large  streams  emptying  into  Lake  Michigan. 
The  large  and  beautiful  region  to  the  north-west,  embracing  the  valley  of  the  Ma- 
nistee  and  the  undulating  lands  around  Grand  Traverse  Bay.  Northward,  the  re 
gion  embraces  the  head  waters  of  the  Manistee  and  Au  Sauble,  with  the  large 
tracts  of  excellent  pine  in  that  locality,  and  beyond,  the  agricultural  region  extend 
ing  to  Little  Traverse  Bay  and  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  To  the  north-east,  the 
valley  of  the  Au  Sauble,  and  the  pine  region  of  Thunder  Bay.  To  the  east,  the 
pine  and  hard  timber  extending  to  Saginaw  Bay.  To  the  south-east,  the  Saginaw 
valley;  and  to  the  south,  the  high  lands  before  described  in  the  central  counties. 

That  portion  of  the  state  south  of  Saginaw  and  the  Grand  River  valley,  is  so  well 
known  that  a  description  here  would  be  unnecessary.  Thus  we  have  yet  undevel 
oped  over  half  of  the  surface  of  this  peninsula,  embracing,  certainly,  12,000,000  to 
15,000,000  of  acres,  possessing  stores  of  wealth  in  the  timber  upon  its  surface,  re 
serving  soil  for  the  benefit  of  those,  who,  as  the  means  of  communication  are 
opened,  will  come  in  and  possess  it,  and  thus  introduce  industry  and  prosperity  into 
our  waste  places. 

We  have  not  the  figures  at  hand,  but  it  is  probable  that  at  least  one  tenth  of  the 
area  north  of  the  Grand  River  is  embraced  in  the  pine  region.  The  swamp  lands 
granted  to  the  state  will  probably  cover  nearly  double  the  area  of  the  pine  lands 
proper.  The  remainder,  for  the  most  part,  is  covered  with  a  magnificent  growth 
of  hard  timber  suited  to  the  necessities  of  our  growing  population  and  commerce. 

The  trade  in  pine  timber,  lumber,  shingles,  and  other  varieties  of  lumber,  with 
the  traffic  in  staves  form  one  of  the  most  important  branches  of  manufacture 
and  commerce  in  our  own  state,  and  this  trade  alone  is  now  accomplishing  more 
for  the  development  and  settlement  of  the  country  than  all  other  causes  in  opera 
tion. 


384  MICHIGAN. 

Saginaw,  the  county  seat  of  Saginaw  county,  is  57  miles  N.  E.  of  Lansing, 
and  95  N.  N.  W.  of  Detroit,  and  is  built  on  the  site  of  a  trading  post  which, 
during  the  war  of  1812,  was  occupied  as  a  military  post.  It  is  on  the  W. 
bank  of  Saginaw  River,  elevated  about  30  feet  above  the  water,  22  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  at  Saginaw  Bay,  an  inlet  of  Lake  Huron.  It 
possesses  advantages  for  commerce,  as  the  river  is  large,  and  navigable 
for  vessels  drawing  10  feet  of  water.  The  four  branches  of  this  river 
coming  from  various  directions,  unite  a  few  miles  above  the  town,  and  afford 
intercourse  by  boats  with  a  large  portion  of  the  state.  Population  about 
3,000. 

A  very  extensive  lumber  business  is  carried  on  at  Saginaw.  Within  a 
short  time  the  manufacture  of  salt  has  begun  here,  from  brine  obtained  at 
the  depth  of  620  feet.  The  salt  is  of  extraordinary  purity,  and  the  brine  of 
unusual  strength.  This  industry,  when  developed,  will  greatly  increase  tho 
prosperity  of  the  Saginaw  valley. 

Pontiac,  named  after  the  celebrated  Indian  chieftain,  is  situated  on  Clin 
ton  River,  on  the  line  of  the  railroad,  25  miles  N.  W.  from  Detroit.  It  is  a 
flourishing  village,  and  the  county  seat  of  Oakland  county.  Is  an  active 
place  of  business,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  wool  markets  in  the  state.  It 
has  quite  a  number  of  stores,  mills,  and  factories,  and  six  churches.  Popu 
lation  about  3,000. 

Mr.  Asahel  Fuller,  a  native  of  Connecticut,  emigrated  to  Michigan  in  1827,  and 
located  himself  at  Waterford,  seven  miles  north-west  from  Pontiac,  on  the  Old  In 
dian  trail  from  Detroit  to  Saginaw,  and  was  a  long  period  known  as  an  inn-keeper 
in  this  section  of  the  state.  The  Chippewa  Indians  who  received  their  annuities 
from  the  British  government  at  Maiden,  Canada  West,  in  their  journeyings,  often 
camped  or  stopped  near  his  house,  sometimes  to  the  number  of  2  or  300.  On 
one  occasion  he  saw  them  go  through  their  incantations  to  heal  a  sick  man,  one 
of  their  number.  They  formed  a  circle  around  him,  singing  a  kind  of  hum  drum 
tune,  beating  a  drum  made  of  a  hollow  log  with  a  deer  skin  stretched  over  it.  The 
Indian,  priest  or  powaw  would  occasionally  throw  into  the  tire  a  little  tobacco, 
which  had  been  rubbed  in  the  hand,  likewise  pour  whiskey  into  the  fire  after 
drinking  a  little  himself,  evidently  as  a  kind  of  sacrifice.  On  another  occasion  a 
man  breathed  into  a  sick  child's  mouth,  and  prayed  most  fervently  to  the  Great 
Spirit  to  interpose.  In  1830,  Mr.  Fuller  purchased  the  first  lot  of  government 
lands  in  Springfield,  12  miles  from  Pontiac.  He  removed  there  in  1831,  and 
erected  the  first  house  in  the  place,  his  nearest  neighbor  being  5  miles  to  the  south 
east,  and  15  to  the  north-west.  Here  he  kept  a  public  house  on  the  Indian  trail 
on  a  most  beautiful  spot,  called  Little  Spring,  near  two  beautiful  lakes;  a  favorite 
place  of  resort  for  the  Indians,  and  where  they  sometimes  held  the  "  White  Dog 
Feast,"  one  of  their  sacred  observances.  Mrs.  Julia  A.  O'Donoughue,  the  daughter 
of  Mr.  F.,  and  wife  of  Mr.  Washington  O'Donoughue,  was  the  first  white  child 
born  in  Springfield. 

Port  Huron  is  in  St.  Clair  county,  77  miles  from  Detroit,  at  the  junction 
of  Black  and  St.  Clair  Rivers,  two  miles  south  from  Lake  Huron,  and  one 
mile  from  Fort  Gratiot,  a  somewhat  noted  post.  It  has  a  good  harbor  and  su 
perior  facilities  for  ship  building,  and  is  largely  engaged  in  the  lumber  busi 
ness.  Great  amounts  of  excellent  pine  timber  are  sent  down  Black  River, 
and  manufactured  or  shipped  here.  It  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Port 
Huron  and  Lake  Michigan  Railroad,  the  western  terminus  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railroad,  which  extends  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  limits  of  the 
Canadas.  It  is  one  of  the  greatest  lumber  markets  in  the  west.  Its  annual 
exports  amount  to  $2,000,000.  Population  about  3,500. 

On  the  line  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad,  beside  those  already  de 
scribed,  are  the  following  large  and  flourishing  towns,  all  having  abundance 


MICHIGAN. 


385 


of  water  power  mills,  factories,  etc.,  and  each  containing  from  3,000  to  7,000 
inhabitants.  Ypsilanti,  30  miles  from  Detroit  on  Huron  River,  is  the  seat 
of  the  state  normal  school,  a  branch  of  the  state  university.  Marshall  is 
107  miles  from  Detroit.  Battle  Creek  120  miles  from  Detroit  Kalamazoo, 
23  miles  farther  west,  contains  a  United  States  land  office,  the  state  asylum 
for  the  insane,  and  a  branch  of  the  state  university.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  villages :  it  is  planted  all  over  with  trees,  every  street  bein°* 
lined  with  them.  Niles,  191  miles  from  Detroit,  has  a  branch  of  the  state 
university,  and  is  the  principal  market  for  south-western  Michigan.  The  St. 
Joseph  River  is  navigable  beyond  this  point  for  small  steamers. 

Farther  south,  in  the  state,  are  other  important  towns,  containing  each 
about  3,000  inhabitants.  They  are:  Tecumseh,  10  miles  N.  E.  of  Adrian, 
and  connected  by  a  branch  railroad,  eight  miles  in  length,  with  the  Michigan 
Southern  Railroad.  Hillsdale,  on  the  last  named  railroad,  110  miles  from 
Detroit,  and  noted  as  the  seat  of  Hillsdale  College,  a  thriving  and  highly 
popular  institution,  chartered  in  1855.  Coldwater  is  also  on  the  same 
railroad,  22  miles  westerly  from  Hillsdale.  St.  Joseph,  at  the  entrance  of 
St.  Joseph  River  into  Lake  Michigan,  194  miles  west  of  Detroit,  has  a  fine 
harbor  and  an  extensive  trade  in  lumber  and  fruit,  with  Chicago. 

In  1679,  the  noted  explorer,  La  Salle,  built  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  St. 
Joseph's  River.  Afterward  there  was  a  Jesuit  mission  here,  which  Charle- 
voix  visited  in  1721.  When  the  west  came  into  possession  of  Great  Britain, 
they  had  a  fort  also  at  this  point.  This  was  twice  captured  in  the  war  of 
the  revolution,  by  expeditions  of  the  brave  frontiersmen  of  Cahokia,  Illi 
nois.  The  annexed  sketch  of  these  exploits  is  thus  given  in  Perkins'  Annals, 
Peck's  edition: 

"  There  was  at  Cahokia,  a  restless,  adventurous,  daring  man,  by  the  name 
of  Thomas  Brady,  or  as  he  was  familiarly  called,  'Tom  Brady;'  a  native 
of  Pennsylvania,  who,  by  hunting,  or  in  some  other  pursuit,  found  him 
self  a  resident  of  Cahokia.  He  raised  a  company  of  16  resolute  persons, 
all  of  Cahokia  and  the  adjacent  village  of  Prairie  du  Pont,  of  which  the 
father  of  Mr.  Boismenue,  the  informant,  was  one.  After  becoming  organ 
ized  for  an  expedition,  the  party  moved  through  a  place  called  the  '  Cow 
Pens,'  on  the  River  St.  Joseph,  in  the  south-western  part  of  Michigan. 
Here  was  a  trading-post  and  fort  originally  established  by  the  French, 
but  since  the  transfer  of  the  country,  had  been  occupied  by  the  British 
by  a  small  force,  as  a  protection  of  their  traders  from  the  Indians.  In  1777, 
it  consisted  of  21  men. 

Brady,  with  his  little  band  of  volunteers,  left  Cahokia  about  the  1st  of 
October,  1777,  and  made  their  way  to  the  fort,  which  they  captured  in  the 
night,  without  loss  on  either  side,  except,  a  negro.  This  person  was  a  slave 
from  some  of  the  colonies  on  the  Mississippi,  who,  in  attempting  to  escape, 
was  shot.  One  object  of  this  expedition,  probably,  was  the  British  goods 
in  the  fort. 

The  company  started  back  as  far  as  the  Calumet,  a  stream  on  the  border 
of  Indiana,  south-east  of  Chicago,  when  they  were  overtaken  by  a  party  of 
British,  Canadians  and  Indians,  about  300  in  number,  who  attacked  the  Ca- 
hokians  and  forced  them  to  surrender.  Two  of  Brady's  party  were  killed, 
two  wounded,  one  escaped,  and  12  were  made  prisoners.  These  remained 
prisoners  in  Canada  two  years,  except  Brady,  who  made  his  escape,  and  re 
turned  to  Illinois  by  way  of  Pennsylvania.  M.  Boismenue,  Sr.,  was  one  of 
the  wounded  men. 
25 


386  MICHIGAN. 

The  next  spring,  a  Frenchman,  by  the  name  of  Paulette  Maize,  a  daring 
fellow,  raised  about  300  volunteers  from  Cahokia,  St.  Louis,  and  other  French 
villages,  to  re-capture  the  fort  on  the  River  St.  Joseph.  This  campaign  was 
!>y  land,  across  the  prairies  in  the  spring  of  1778.  It  was  successful;  the 
fort  was  re-taken,  and  the  peltries  and  goods  became  the  spoil  of  the  victors. 
The  wounded  men  returned  home  with  Maize.  One  gave  out;  they  had  no 
horses;  and  he  was  dispatched  by  the  leader,  to  prevent  the  company  being 
detained  on  their  retreat,  lest  the  same  disaster  should  befall  them  as  hap 
pened  to  Brady,  and  his  company.  Some  of  the  members  of  the  most  an 
cient  and  respectable  families  in  Cahokia,  were  in  this  expedition.  Thomas 
Brady  became"  the  sheriff  of  the  county  of  St.  Clair,  after  its  organization  by 
the  governor  of  the  North-western  Territory  in  1790.  He  was  regarded  as 
a  trust-worthy  citizen,  and  died  at  Cahokia  many  years  since." 

Almont,  Mt.  Clemens,  Romeo,  Allegan,  and  Grand  Haven,  are  flourishing- 
towns  in  the'Southern  Peninsula  of  Michigan.  Almont  is  in  Lapeer  county, 
49  miles  north  of  Detroit.  Mt.  Clemens  is  the  county  seat  of-  Macomb,  and 
is  20  miles  from  Detroit,  on'  Clinton  River,  4  miles  from  its  entrance  into 


The  Isle,  Mackinaw. 

Engraved  from  a  drawing  by  the  late  Francis  Howe,  of  Chicago,  taken  about  the  year  1840. 

Lake  St.  Clair.  It  is  well  situated  for  ship  building,  and  has  daily  steam 
boat  communication  with  Detroit.  Romeo  is  also  on  Clinton  River,  40  miles 
from  Detroit.  Allegan,  distant  from  Kalamazoo  28  miles,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  Kalamazoo  River,  is  a  young  and  thrifty  lumbering  village. 
Grand  Haven  is  at  the  mouth  of  Grand  River,  at  the  termination  of 
the  Detroit  and  Milwaukie  Railroad.  It  has  a  noble  harbor,  and  does  an 
enormous  lumber  trade.  Lumber  is  shipped  from  here  to  Chicago,  and  ol her 
ports  on  the  west -side  of  the  lake;  and  steamers  ply  regularly  between  this 
point  and  Chicago,  and  also  on  the  river  to  the  flourishing  city  of  Grand 
Rapids,  above. 

MACKINAW,  called  "the  Gem  of  the  Lakes"  is  an   exquisitely  beautiful 
island  in  the  straits  of  Mackinaw.     It  is,  by  water,  320  miles  north  of  De- 


MICHIGAN. 


387 


troit,  in  Lat.  45°  54'  N.  Long.  84°  30'  W.  Its  name  is  an  abbreviation  of 
Michilimackinac,  which  is  a  compound  of  the  word  missi  or  missil,  signifying 
u  great/'  and  Mackinac,  the  Indian  word  for  "  turtle,"  from  a  fancied  resem 
blance  to  a  great  turtle  lying  upon  the  water. 

Among  the  curiosities  of  the  island,  are  the  Arched  Rock,  the  Natural 
Pyramid,  and  the  Skull  Rock.  The  Arched  Rock  is  a  natural  arch  project 
ing  from  the  precipice  on  the  north-eastern 
side  of  the  island,  about  a  mile  from  the 
town,  and  elevated  140  feet  above  the  water. 
Its  abutments  are  the  calcareous  rock  com 
mon  to  the  island,  and  have  been  created  by 
the  falling  down  of  enormous  masses  of  rock, 
leaving  the  chasm.  It  is  about  90  feet  in 
hight,  and  is  crowned  by  an  arch  of  near  60 
feet  sweep.  From  its  great  elevation,  the 
view  through  the  arch  upon  the  wide  expanse 
of  water,  is  of  singular  beauty  and  grandeur. 
The  Natural  Pyramid  is  a  lone  standing 
rock,  upon  the  top  of  the  bluff,  of  probably 
30  feet  in  width  at  the  base,  by  80  or  90  in 
hight,  of  a  rugged  appearance,  and  support 
ing  in  its  crevices  a  few  stunted  cedars.  It 
pleases  chiefly  by  its  novelty,  so  unlike  any 
thing  to  be  found  in  other  parts  of  the  world; 
and  on  the  first  view,  it  gives  the  idea  of 
a  work  of  art.  The  SkuU  Rock  is  chiefly 
noted  for  a  cavern,  which  appears  to  have 
been  an  ancient  receptacle  of  human  bones. 
The  entrance  is  low  and  narrow.  It  is  here 
that  Alexander  Henry  was  secreted  by  a  friendly  Indian,  after  the  horrid 
massacre  of  the  British  garrison  at  old  Machilimackinac,  in  1763. 

"The  world,"  says  the  poet  Bryant,  "has  not  many  islands  so  beautiful  as 
Mackinaw — the  surface  is  singularly  irregular  with  summits  of  rocks  and 
pleasant  hollows,  open  glades  of  pasturage,  and  shady  nooks." 

It  is,  in  truth,  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  on  the  continent,  and  is 
becoming  a  great  summer  resort,  from  its  natural  attractions  ;  its  bracing, 
invigorating  atmosphere,  and  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.  Its  sky  has  a  won 
derful  clearness  and  serenity,  and  its  cold  deep  waters  a  marvelous  purity, 
that  enables  one  to  discover  the  pebbles  way  down,  fathoms  below.  To 
mount  the  summits  of  Mackinaw,  and  gaze  out  northward  upon  the  expanse 
of  water,  with  its  clustering  islets,  and  the  distant  wilderness  of  the  Northern 
Peninsula ;  to  take  in  with  the  vision  the  glories  of  that  sky,  so  clear,  so 
pure,  that  it  seems  as  though  the  eye  penetrated  infinity;  to  inhale  that 
life-giving  air,  every  draught  of  which  seems  a  luxury,  were  well  worth 
a  toilsome  journey,  and  when  once  experienced,  will  remain  among  the 
most  pleasant  of  memories. 

The  island  is  about  nine  miles  in  circumference,  and  its  extreme  elevation 
above  the  lake,  over  300  feet.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  around  a 
small  bay  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  island,  and  contains  1.000  inhabi 
tants,  which  are  sometimes  nearly  doubled  by  the  influx  of  voyagers, 
traders,  and  Indians.  On  these  occasions,  its  beautiful  harbor  is  seen 
checkered  with  American  vessels  at  anchor,  and  Indian  canoes  rapidly  shoot 


THE  ARCHED  ROCK, 
On  the  Isle  of  Mackinaw. 


388  MICHIGAN. 

ing  across  the  water  in  every  direction.  It  was  formerly  the  seat  of  an  ex 
tensive  fur  trade  :  at  present  it  is  noted  for. the  great  amount  of  trout  and 
white  fish  annually  exported.  Fort  Mackinaw  stands  on  a  rocky  bluff  over 
looking  the  town.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Holmes  are  on  the  apex  of  the  island. 
It  was  built  by  the  British  in  the  war  of  1812,  under  the  name  of  Fort 
George,  and  changed  to  its  present  appellation  by  the  Americans,  in  com 
pliment  to  the  memory  of  Maj.  Holmes,  who  fell  in  an  unsuccessful  attack 
upon  the  island.  This  occurred  in  1814.  The  expedition  consisted  of  a 
strong  detachment  of  land  and  naval  forces  under  Col.  Croghan,  and  was 
shamefully  defeated,  the  death  of  the  gallant  Holmes  having  stricken 
them  with  a  panic. 

The  first  white  settlement  in  this  vicinity  was  at  Point  Ignace,  the  south 
ern  cape  of  the  upper  peninsula  of  Michigan,  and  shown  on  the  map  where 
Father  Marquette  established  a  mission  in  1671. 

The  second  site  was  on  the  opposite  point  of  the  straits,  now  called  Old 
Mackinaw,  nine  miles  south,  being  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lower  pe 
ninsula,  or  Michigan  Proper. 

"In  the  summer  of  1679,  the  Griffin,  built  by  La  Salle  and  his  company  on  the 
shore  of  Lake  Erie,  at  the  present  site  of  the  town  of  Erie,  passed  up  the  St.  Glair, 
sailed  over  the  Huron,  and  entering  the  straits,  found  a  safe  harbor  at  Old  Mack 
inaw.  La  Salle's  expedition  passed  eight  or  nine  years  at  this  place,  and  from 
hence  they  penetrated  the  country  in  all  directions.  At  the  same  time  it  continued 
to  be  the  summer  resort  of  numerous  Indian  tribes,  who  came  here  to  trade  and 
engage  in  the  wild  sports  and  recreations  peculiar  to  the  savage  race.  As  a  city 
of  peace,  it  was  regarded  in  the  same  light  that  the  ancient  Hebrews  regarded  their 
cities  of  refuge,  and  among  those  who  congregated  here  all  animosities  were  for 
gotten.  The  smoke  of  the  calumet  of  peace  always  ascended,  and  the  war  cry 
never  as  yet  has  been  heard  in  its  streets. 

In  Heriot's  Travels,  published  in  1807,  we  find  the  following  interesting  item: 
"  In  1671  Father  Marquette  came  hither  with  a  party  of  Hurons,  whom  he  pre 
vailed  on  to  form  a  settlement.     A  fort  was  constructed,  and  it  afterward  became 

an  important  spot.  It  was  the 
place  of  general  assemblage  for  all 
the  French  who  went  to  traffic  with 
the  distant  nations.  It  was  the 
asylum  of  all  savages  who  came  to 
exchange  their  furs  for  merchan 
dise.  When  individuals  belonging 
to  tribes  at  war  with  each  other 
came  thither,  and  met  on  commer 
cial  adventure,  their  animosities 
were'  suspended." 

"  Notwithstanding    San-ge-man 
BUINS  or  OLD  FOET  MACKINAW.  and   his   warriors  had  braved  the 

dangers  of  the  straits  and  had  slain 

Drawn  by  Capt.  S.  Eastman,  U.S.A.     Mackinaw  Island  ,  °    j       •,     f  ,,     •  •  , 

is  seen  on  the  right:  Point  St.  Ignace,  on  the  north  side       a  hundred  ot   their  enemies  Whose 

of  the  straits,  on  the  left.  residence  was  here,  yet  it  was  not 

in  the  town  that  they  were  slain. 

No  blood  was  ever  shed  by  Indian  hands  within  its  precincts  up  to  this  period,  and 
had  it  remained  in  possession  of  the  French,  the  terrible  scenes  subsequently 
enacted  within  its  streets  would  in  all  probability  never  have  occurred,  and  Old 
Mackinaw  would  have  been  a  city  of  refuge  to  this  day. 

The  English,  excited  by  the  emoluments  derived  from  the  fur  trade,  desired  to 
secure  a  share  in  this  lucrative  traffic  of  the  north-western  lakes.  They  accord 
ingly,  in  the  year  1686,  fitted  out  an  expedition,  and  through  the  interposition  of 
the  Pox  Indians,  whose  friendship  they  secured  by  valuable  presents,  the  expedi- 


MICHIGAN.  389 

tion  reached  Old  Mackinaw,  the  "Queen  of  the  Lakes,"  and  found  the  El  Dorado 
they  had  so  long  desired." 

The  following  interesting  description,  from  Parkman's  "  History  of  the  Conspir 
acy  of  Pontiac, '  of  a  voyage  by  an  English  merchant  to  Old  Mackinaw  about  this 
time,  will  be  in  place  here :  "  Passing  the  fort  and  settlement  of  Detroit,  he  soon 
enters  Lake  St.  Glair,  which  seems  like  a  broad  basin  filled  to  overflowing,  while 
along  its  far  distant  verge  a  faint  line  of  forests  separates  the  water  from  the  sky. 
He  crosses  the  lake,  and  his  voyagers  next  urge  his  canoe  against  the  current  of 
the  great  river  above.  At  length  Lake  Huron  opens  before  him,  stretching  its 
liquid  expanse  like  an  ocean  to  the  furthest  horizon.  His  canoe  skirts  the  eastern 
shore  of  Michigan,  where  the  forest  rises  like  a  wall  from  the  water's  edge,  and  as 
he  advances  onward,  an  endless  line  of  stiff  and  shaggy  fir  trees,  hung  with  long 
mosses,  fringe  the  shore  with  an  aspect  of  desolation.  Passing  on  his  right  the  ex 
tensive  Island  of  Bois  Blanc,  he  sees  nearly  in  front  the  beautiful  Island  of  Mack 
inaw  rising  with  its  white  cliffs  and  green  foliage  from  the  broad  breast  of  waters.  He 
does  not  steer  toward  it,  for  at  that  day  the  Indians  were  its  only  tenants,  but  keeps 
along  the  main  shore  to  the  left,  while  his  voyagers  raise  their  song  and  chorus. 
Doubling  a  point  he  sees  before  him  the  red  flag  of  England  swelling  lazily  in  the 
wind,  and  the  palisades  and  wooden  bastions  of  Fort  Mackinaw  standing  close  up 
on  the  margin  of  the  lake.  On  the  beach  canoes  are  drawn  up,  and  Canadians  and 
Indians  are  idly  lounging.  A  little  beyond  the  fort  is  a  cluster  of  white  Canadian 
houses  roofed  with  bark  and  protected  by  fences  of  strong  round  pickets.  The 
trader  enters  the  gate  and  sees  before  him  an  extensive  square  area,  surrounded  by 
high  palisades.  Numerous  houses,  barracks,  and  other  buildings  form  a  smaller 
square  within,  and  in  the  vacant  place  which  they  inclose  appear  the  red  uniforms 
of  British  soldiers,  the  gray  coats  of  the  Canadians  and  the  gaudy  Indian  blankets 
mingled  in  picturesque  confusion,  while  a  multitude  of  squaws,  with  children  of 
every  hue,  stroll  restlessly  about  the  place.  Such  was  old  Fort  Mackinaw  in 
1763." 

In  1763,  during  the  Pontiac  war,  Old  Mackinaw,  or  Michilimackinac,  was 
the  scene  of  a  horrid  massacre,  the  for^  being  at  the  time  garrisoned  by  the 
British.  It  had  come  into  their  possession  after  the  fall  of  Quebec,  in  1759. 
It  inclosed  an  area  of  two  acres,  surrounded  by  pickets  of  cedar.  It  stood 
near  the  water,  and  with  western  winds,  the  waves  dashed  against  the  foot 
of  the  stockade.  Within  the  pickets  were  about  thirty  houses  with  families, 
and  also  a  chapel,  in  which  religious  services  were  regularly  performed  by  a 
Jesuit  missionary.  Furs  from  the  upper  lakes  were  collected  here  for  trans 
portation,  and  outfits  prepared  for  the  remote  north-west.  The  garrison  con 
sisted  of  93  men ;  there  were  only  four  English  merchants  at  the  fort. 
Alexander  Henry  was  invested  with  the  right  of  trafficking  with  the  Indians, 
and  after  his  arrival  was  visited  by  a  body  of  60  Chippewas,  whose  chieftain, 
Minavavana,  addressed  him  and  his  companions  in  the  following  manner: 

Englishmen,  it  is  to  you  that  I  speak,  and  I  demand  your  attention.  You 
know  that  the  French  King  is  our  father.  He  promised  to  be  such,  and  we  in  turn 
promised  to  be  his  children.  This  promise  we  have  kept.  It  is  you  that  have  made 
war  with  this  our  father.  You  are  his  enemy,  and  how  then  could  you  have  the 
boldness  to  venture  among  us,  his  children.  You  know  that  his  enemies  are  ours. 
We  are  informed  that  our  father,  the  King  of  France,  is  old  and  infirm,  and  that 
being  fatigued  with  making  war  upon  your  nation,  he  has  fallen  asleep.  During 
this  sleep  you  have  taken  advantage  of  him,  and  possessed  yourselves  of  Canada. 
But  his  nap  is  almost  at  an  end.  I  think  I  hear  him  already  stirring  and  inquiring 
for  his  children,  and  when  he  does  awake  what  must  become  of  you?  He  will 
utterly  destroy  you.  Although  you  have  conquered  the  French,  you  have  not  con 
quered  us.  We  are  not  your  slaves.  These  lakes,  these  woods  and  mountains  are 
left  to  us  by  our  ancestors,  they  are  our  inheritance  and  we  will  part  with  them  to 
none.  Your  nation  supposes  that  we,  like  the  white  people,  can*  not  live  without 
bread,  and  pork,  and  beef,  but  you  ought  to  know  that  He,  the  Great  Spirit  and 


390  MICHIGAN. 

Master  of  Life,  has  provided  food  for  us  in  these  spacious  lakes  and  on  these 
woody  mountains. 

Our  father,  the  King  of  France,  employed  our  young  men  to  make  war  upon 
your  nation.  In  this  warfare  many  of  them  have  been  killed,  and  it  is  our  custom 
to  retaliate  until  such  time  as  the  spirits  of  the  slain  are  satisfied.  But  the  spirits 
of  the  slain  are  to  be  satisfied  in  one  of  two  ways;  the  first  is  by  the  spilling  the 
blood  of  the  nation  by  which  they  fell,  the  other  by  covering  the  bodies  of  the 
dead,  and  thus  allaying  the  resentment  of  their  relations.  This  is  done  by  making 
presents.  Your  king  has  never  sent  us  any  presents,  nor  entered  into  any  treaty 
with  us,  wherefore  he  and  we  are  still  at  war,  and  until  he  does  these  things  we 
must  consider  that  we  have  no  other  father  or  friend  among  the  white  men  than 
the  King  of  France.  But  for  you,  we  have  taken  into  consideration  that  you  have 
ventured  among  us  in  the  expectation  that  we  would  not  molest  you.  You  do  not 
come  around  with  the  intention  to  make  war.  You  come  in  peace  to  trade  with 
us,  and  supply  us  with  necessaries,  of  which  we  are  much  in  need.  We  shall  re 
gard  you,  therefore,  as  a  brother,  and  you  may  sleep  tranquilly  without  fear  of  the 
Chippewas.  As  a  token  of  friendship  we  present  you  with  this  pipe  to  smoke. 

Previous  to  the  attack  the  Indians  were  noticed  assembling  in  great  num 
bers,  with  every  appearance  of  friendship,  ostensibly  for  the  purpose  of  trade, 
and  during  one  night  400  lay  about  the  fort.  In  order  to  celebrate  the  king's 
birth  day,  on  the  third  of  June,  a  game  of  ball  was  proposed  to  be  played 
between  the  Chippewas  and  Sacs  for  a  high  wager.  Having  induced  Major 
Etherington,  the  commandant,  and  many  of  the  garrison  to  come  outside  the 
pickets  to  view  the  game,  it  was  the  design  of  the  Indians  to  throw  the  ball 
within  the  pickets,  and,  as  was  natural  in  the  heat  of  the  game,  that  all  the 
Indians  should  rush  after  it.  The  stratagem  was  successful — the  war  cry 
was  raised,  seventy  of  the  garrison  were  murdered  and  scalped,  and  the  re 
mainder  were  taken  prisoners. 

"  Henry  witnessed  the  dreadful  slaughter  from  his  window,  and  being  unarmed  he 
hastened  out,  and  springing  over  a  low  fence  which  divided  his  house  from  that  of 
M.  Langlade,  the  French  Interpreter,  entered  the  latter,  and  requested  some  one 
to  direct  him  to  a  place  of  safety.  Langlade  hearing  the  request,  replied  that  he 
could  do  nothing  for  him.  At  this  moment  a  slave  belonging  to  Langlade,  of  the 
Pawnee  tribe  of  Indians,  took  him  to  a  door  which  she  opened,  and  informed  him 
that  it  led  to  the  garret  where  he  might  conceal  himself.  She  then  locked  the  door 
and  took  away  the  key.  Through  a  hole  in  the  wall  Henry  could  have  a  complete 
view  of  the  fort.  He  beheld  the  heaps  of  the  slain,  and  heard  the  savage  yells, 
until  the  last  victim  was  dispatched.  Having  finished  the  work  of  death  in  the 
fort,  the  Indians  went  out  to  search  the  houses.  Some  Indians  entered  Langlade's 
house  and  asked  if  there  were  any  Englishmen  concealed  in  it.  He  replied  that 
he  did  not  know,  they  might  search  for  themselves.  At  length  they  opened  the 
garret  door  and  ascended  the  stairs,  but  Henry  had  concealed  himself  amid  a 
heap  of  birch-bark  vessels,  which  had  been  used  in  making  maple  sugar,  and  thus 
escaped.  Fatigued  and  exhausted,  he  lay  down  on  a  mat  and  went  to  sleep,  and 
while  in  this  condition  he  was  surprised  by  the  wife  of  Langlade,  who  remarked 
that  the  Indians  had  killed  all  the  English,  but  she  hoped  he  might  escape.  Fear 
ing,  however,  that  she  would  fall  a  prey  to  their  vengeance  if  it  was  found  that  an 
Englishman  was  concealed  in  her  house,  she  at  length  revealed  the  place  of  Henry's 
concealment,  giving  as  a  reason  therefor,  that  if  he  should  be  found  her  children 
would  be  destroyed.  Unlocking  the  door,  she  was  followed  by  several  Indians, 
who  were  led  by  Wenniway,  a  noted  chief.  At  sight  of  him  the  chief  seized  him 
with  one  hand,  and  brandishing  a  large  carving  knife  was  about  to  plunge  it  into 
his  heart,  when  he  dropped  his  arm,  saying,  "1  won't  kill  you.  My  brother,  Mu- 
sinigon,  was  slain  by  the  English,  and  you  shall  take  his  place  and  be  called  after 
him."  He  was  carried  to  L'Arbre  Croche  as  a  prisoner,  where  he  was  rescued  by 
a  band  of  three  hundred  Ottawas,  by  whom  he  was  returned  to  Mackinaw,  and 
finally  ransomed  by  his  friend  Wawatam.  At  the  capture  of  the  place  only  one 
trader,  M.  Tracy,  lost  his  life.  Capt.  Etherington  was  carried  away  by  some  In- 


MICHIGAN. 


391 


dians  from  the  scene  of  slaughter.  Seventy  of  the  English  troops  were  slain.  An 
Englishman,  by  the  name  of  Solomon,  saved  himself  by  hiding  under  a  heap  of 
corn,  and  his  boy  was  saved  by  creeping  up  a  chimney,  where  he  remained  two 
days.  A  number  of  canoes,  filled  with  English  traders,  arriving  soon  after  the 
massacre,  they  were  seized,  and  the  traders,  dragged  through  the  water,  were 
beaten  and  marched  by  the  Indians  to  the  prison  lodge.  After  theythad  completed 


LAKE      SUPERI    0_R 


N    A    D    A 


MICHIGAN;—  NORTHERN 


HURON 


)ld  Fort.  Michihtnack 
inack,  now  Mackinaw 
City,  anil  site  of  the 
massacre  of  a  British 
Garrison  m  1763. 

MICHIG  AN;— SOUTHERN 
PENINSULA 


Map  of  Mackinaw  and  vicinity. 

the  work  of  destruction,  the  Indians,  about  four  hundred  in  number,  entertaining 
apprehensions  that  they  would  be  attacked  by  the  English,  and  the  Indians  who 
had  joined  them,  took  refuge  on  the  Island  .of  Mackinaw,  Wawatam  fearing  that 
Henry  would  be  butchered  by  the  savages  in  their  drunken  revels,  took  Mm  out  to 
a  cave,  where  he  lay  concealed  for  one  night  on  a  heap  of  human  bones.  As  the 
fort  was  not  destroyed,  it  was  subsequently  reoccupied  by  British  soldiers,  and  the 
removal  to  the  island  did  not  take  place  until  about  the  year  1780." 

The  station  on  the  island  was  called  New  Mackinaw,  while  the  other,  on 
the  main  land,  has  since  been  termed  Old  Mackinaw.  The  chapel,  fort,  and 
college,  at  the  latter  place,  have  long  since  passed  away,  l>ut  relics  of  the 
stone  walls  and  pickets  remain  to  this  day.  To  the  Catholic,  as  the  site  of 
their  first  college  in  the  north-west,  and  one  of  their  earliest  mission  stations, 
this  must  be  ever  a  spot  of  great  interest. 


392  MICHIGAN. 

New  Mackinaw  formerly  received  its  greatest  support  from  the  fur  trade, 
when  in  the  hands  of  the  late  John  Jacob  Astor,  being  at  that  time  the  out 
fitting  and  furnishing  place  for  the  Indian  trade.  This  trade  became  extinct 
in  1834,  and  the  place  since  has  derived  its  support  mainly  from  the  fisheries. 
The  Isle  of  Mackinaw,  in  modern  times,  has  been  a  prominent  point  for 
Protestant  missions  among  the  Indians.  The  first  American  missionary  was 
the  Rev.  David  Bacon,  who  settled  here  in  1802,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Connecticut  Missionary  Society,  the  oldest,  it  is  believed,  in  America.  This 
gentleman  was  the  father  of  Dr.  Leonard  Bacon,  the  eminent  New  England 
divine,  who  was  born  in  Michigan.  Prior  to  settling  at  Mackinaw,  Mr.  Bacon 
attempted  to  establish  a  mission  upon  the  Maumee.  The  Indians  in  council 
listened  to  his  arguments  for  this  object,  with  due  courtesy:  and  then,  through 
one  of  their  chiefs,  Little  Otter,  respectfully  declined.  The  gist  of  the  reply 
is  contained  in  the  following  sentence : 

BROTHER —  Your  religion  is  very  good,  but  it  is  only  good  for  white  people. 
It  will  not  do  for  Indians :  they  are  quite  a  different  sort  of  folks. 

Old  Mackinaw,  or  Mackinaek,  is  the  site  of  a  recently  laid  out  town,  Mack 
inaw  City,  which,  its  projectors  reason,  bids  fair  to  become  eventually  an  im 
portant  point.  Ferris  says,  in  his  work  on  the  west:  "If  one  were  to  point 
Out,  on  the  map  of  North  America,  a  site  for  a  great  central  city  in  the  lake 
region,  it  would  be  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  A 
city  so  located  would  have  the  command  of  the  mineral  trade,  the  fisheries, 
the  furs,  and  the  lumber  of  the  entire  north.  It  might  become  the  metropo 
lis  of  a  great  commercial  empire.  It  would  be  the  Venice  of  the  Lakes." 
The  climate  would  seem  to  forbid  such  a  consummation ;  but  the  tempera 
ture  of  this  point,  softened  by  the  vast  adjacent  bodies  of  water,  is  much 
milder  than  one  would  suppose  from  its  latitude :  north  of  this  latitude  is  a  part 
of  Canada  which  now  contains  a  million  of  inhabitants.  Two  important  rail 
roads,  running  through  the  whole  of  the  lower  peninsula  of  Michigan,  are  to 
terminate  at  this  point — one  passing  through  Grand  Rapids,  and  the  other 
through  Saginaw  City.  These  are  building  by  the  aid  of  extensive  land 
grants  from  the  general  government  to  the  state,  and  are  to  give  southern  Mich 
igan  a  constant  communication  with  the  mineral  region  in  the  upper  peninsula, 
from  which  she  is  now  ice  locked  five  or  six  months  in  the  year,  and  which, 
in  time  is  destined  to  support  a  large  and  prosperous  population.  The  min 
eral  region  is  also  to  have  railroad  communications  through  Wisconsin  south, 
and  through  Canada  east  to  the  Atlantic,  extensive  land  grants  having  been 
made  by  the  American  and  Canadian  governments  for  these  objects,  com 
prising  in  all  many  millions  of  acres. 

The  Beaver  Islands  are  a  beautiful  cluster  of  Islands  in  Lake  Michigan, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Mackinaw.  Big  Beaver,  the  largest  of  them,  contains 
about  25.000  acres,  and  until  within  a  few  years  was  in  the  possession  of  a 
band  of  Mormons. 

When  the  Mormons  were  driven  from  Nauvoo,  in  1845,  they  were  divided  into 
three  factions — the  Twelveites,  the  Rigdonites,  and  the  Strangites.  The  Twelveites 
were  those  who  emigrated  to  Utah,  the  Rigdonites  were  the  followers  of  Sidney  Rig- 
don,  and  were  but  few  in  number,  and  the  Strangites  made  Beaver  Island  their  head 
quarters.  Their  leader,  Strang,  a  young  lawyer  originally  of  western  N.  York,  claimed 
to  have  a  revelation  from  God,  appointing  him  the  successor  of  Joe  Smith.  "These 
Mormons  held  the  entire  control  of  the  main  island,  and  probably  would  have  con 
tinued  to  do  so  for  some  time,  but  from  the  many  depredations  committed  by  them, 
the  neighboring  fishermen  and  others  living  and  trading  on  the  coasts,  became  de 
termined  to  root  out  this  band  of  robbers  and  pirates,  as  they  believed  them  to  be. 


MICHIGAN. 


393 


After  organizing  a  strong  force,  they  made  an  attack  upon  these  Mormons,  and 
succeeded,  though  meeting  with  obstinate  resistance,  in  driving  them  from  the 
island.  The  attacking  party  found  concealed  a  large  number  of  hides  and  other 
goods,  which  were  buried  to  avoid  detection.  The  poor,  deluded  followers  of  this 
monstrous  doctrine  are  now  dispersed.  Some  three  or  four  hundred  were  sent  to 
Chicago,  and  from  thence  spread  over  the  country.  Others  were  sent  to  ports  on 
Lake  Erie.  Strang  was  wounded  by  one  of  the  men  he  had  some  time  previous  to 
this  attack  robbed  and  beaten.  He  managed  to  escape  the  island,  but  died  in  Wis 
consin  shortly  after,  in  consequence  of  his  wounds." 

SAULT  DE  STE.  MARIE,  the  county  seat  of  Chippewa  county,  is  situated 

on  St.  Marys  River,  or  Strait,  400  miles 
N.W.  of  Detroit,  and  about  18  from  the 
entrance  of  Lake  Superior.  The  vil 
lage  has  an  elevated  situation,  at  the 
Falls  of  St.  Mary,  and  contains  about 
1,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  famous  fish 
ing  place,  immense  quantities  of  white 
fish  being  caught  and  salted  here  for  the 
markets  of  the  west.  The  falls  are 
^^^___,  merely  rapids,  having  a  descent  of  22 
THE  SAULT  OK  FALLS  OF  ST.  MARY.  feet  in  a  mile.  The  Sault  Ste.  Marie  is 

The  view  is  looking  down  the  RaPid8.  one  of  the  prominent  historic  localities 

of  the  north-west. 

"On  the  17th  of  September,  1641,  the  Fathers  Joguesand  Raymbault  embarked 
in  their  frail  birch  bark  canoes  for  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie.  They  floated  over  the  clear 
waters  between  the  picturesque  islands  of  Lake  Huron,  and  after  a  voyage  of  sev 
enteen  days  arrived  at  the  Sault.  Here  they  found  a  large  assembly  of  Chippewas. 
After  numerous  inquiries,  they  heard  of  the  Nadowessies,  the  famed  Sioux,  who 
dwelt  eighteen  days'  journey  further  to  the  west,  beyond  the  Great  Lake.  Thus 
did  the  religious  zeal  of  the  French  bear  the  cross  to  the  banks  of  the  St.  Mary 
and  the  confines  of  Lake  Superior,  and  look  wistfully  toward  the  homes  of  the 
Sioux  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  five  years  before  the  New  England  Elliott 
had  addressed  the  tribe  of  Indians  that  dwelt  within  six  miles  of  Boston  harbor." 
In  1668,  James  Marquette  and  Claude  Dablon  founded  a  mission  here.  During 
the  whole  of  the  French  occupancy  of  the  west,  this  was  a  great  point  for  their 
missions  and  fur  traders.  In  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  the  trading  station 
of  the  British  North-west  Fur  Company,  on  the  Canadian  side,  was  burnt  by  Maj. 
Holmes:  this  was  just  before  the  unsuccessful  attack  on  Mackinaw.  Fort  Brady, 
at  this  place,  was  built  in  1823,  and  was  at  the  time  the  most  northerly  fortress  in 
the  United  States. 

Before  the  construction  of  the  great  canal,  the  copper  from  the  Lake  Su 
perior  mines  was  taken  around  the  falls  by  railway,  the  cars  being  drawn  by 
horses.  It  has  added  1,700  miles  of  coast  to  the  trade  of  the  lakes,  and  is 
of  incalculable  advantage  to  the  whole  of  the  business  of  the  Lake  Superior 
country. 

St.  Marys  Strait,  which  separates  Canada  West  from  the  upper  peninsula  of 
Michigan,  is  about  64  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  eight  feet 
of  water  to  within  about  a  mile  of  Lake  Superior.  At  this  point  the  navigation  is 
impeded  by  the  Falls — the  " sault"  (pronounced  soo)  of  the  river.  Congress 
offered  Michigan  750,000  acres  of  land  to  construct  a  ship  canal  around  these 
rapids ;  and  the  state  contracted  to  give  these  lands,  free  of  taxation  for  five  years, 
to  Erastus  Corning  and  others,  on  condition  of  building  the  canal  by  the  19th  of 
May,  1855.  The  work  was  completed  in  style  superior  to  anything  on  this  conti 
nent,  and  the  locks  are  supposed  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  canal  is  12 
feet  deep,  being  mostly  excavated  through  solid  sandstone  rock.  It  is  100  feet  wide 
at  the  top  of  the  water,  and  115  at  the  top  of  its  banks ;  and  the  largest  steamboats 


394  MICHIGAN. 

and  vessels  which  navigate  the  Great  Lakes  can  pass  through  it  with  the  greatest 
ease. 

The  Upper  Peninsula,  or  Lake  Superior  country,  of  Michigan,  has,  of  late 
years,  attracted  great  attention  from  its  extraordinary  mineral  wealth, 
especially  in  copper  and*  iron.  The  territory  comprised  in  it.  together  with 
that  portion  of  the  Lake  Superior  region  belonging  to  the  state  of  Wiscon 
sin,  has  interests  so  peculiar  to  itself,  that  the  project  of  ceding  this 
whole  tract,  by  the  "legislatures  of  Wisconsin  and  Michigan,  to  the  general 
government,  for  the  purpose  of  erecting  a  new  state  to  be  called  SUPERIOR, 
has  been  seriously  agitated  and  may,  in  some  not  distant  future,  be  consum 
mated. 

Lake  Superior,  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe,  is  an  object  of  in 
terest  to  the  traveler.  It  is  1,500  miles  in  circumference,  and  in  some  parts  more 
than  a  thousand  feet  in  depth.  Among  its  many  islands  Isle  Royal  is  the  largest, 
being  nearly  of  the  size  of  the  state  of  Connecticut.  The  country  along  the" lake 
is  one  of  the  most  dreary  imaginable.  Everywhere  its  surface  is  rocky  and  broken; 
but  the  high  hills,  the  rugged  precipices,  and  the  rooky  shores,  with  their  spare 
vegetation,  are  relieved  by  the  transparency  and  purity  of  the  waters  that  wash 
their  base  ;  these  are  so  clear  that  the  pebbles  can  often  be  distinctly  seen  at  the 
depth  of  thirty  feet.  A  boat  frequently  appears  as  if  suspended  in  the  air,  so  trans 
parent  is  the  liquid  upon  which  it  floats.  Among  the  natural  curiosities,  the  Pic 
tured  Rocks  and  the  Doric  Arch,  on  the  south  shore  near  the  east  end,  are  promi 
nent.  The  first  are  a  series  of  lofty  bluff's,  of  a  light  gray  sandstone,  3uO  feet 
high,  which  continue  for  twelve  miles  along  the  shore.  They  consist  of  a  group 
of  overhanging  precipices,  towering  walls,  caverns,  waterfalls,  and  prostrate  ruins. 
The  Doric  Arch  is  an  isolated  mass  of  sandstone,  consisting  of  four  natural  pillars, 
supporting  an  entablature  of  the  same  material,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of 
a  work  of  art.  The  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  being  remarkably  pure,  abound  with 
fish,  particularly  trout,  sturgeon  and  white  fish,  which  are  an  extensive  article  of 
commerce.  The  siskowit  of  Lake  Superior,  supposed  to  be  a  cross  of  the  trout 
and  white  fish,  is  considered  by  epicures  to  possess  the  finest  flavor  of  any  fish  in 
the  world,  fresh  or  salt,  and  to  which  the  brook  trout  can  bear  no  comparison.  It 
loses  its  delicacy  of  flavor  when  salted ;  its  common  weight  is  four  pounds,  and 
length  16  inches.  So  exhilarating  is  the  winter  atmosphere  here,  that  it  is  said 
that  to  those  who  exercise  much  in  the  open  air,  it  produces,  not  unfreqently,  an 
inexpressible  elasticity  and  buoyancy  of  spirits,  that  can  be  compared  to  nothing 
else  but  to  the  effects  of  intoxicating  drinks. 

The  climate  of  the  Lake  Superior  region  is  not,  by  any  means,  so  severe 
as  its  northern  latitude  would  indicate.  A  writer,  familiar  with  it  says : 

""No  consideration  is,  perhaps,  more  important  to  those  seeking  a  country  suita 
ble  for  residence  and  enterprise,  than  the  character  of  its  climate.  Health  is  the 
first,  and  comfort  the  next  great  object,  in  selecting  a  permanent  abode.  Tested 
by  these  qualities,  the  Lake  Superior  region  presents  prominent  inducements.  Its 
atmosphere  is  drier,  more  transparent  and  bracing  than  those  of  the  other  states  on 
the  same  parallel.  A  healthier  region  does  not  exist;  here  the  common  diseases 
of  mankind  are  comparatively  unknown.  The  lightness  of  the  atmosphere  has  a 
most  invigorating  effect  upon  the  spirits,  and  the  breast  of  the  invalid  swells  with 
new  emotion  when  he  inhales  its  healthy  breezes,  as  they  sweep  across  the  lake. 
None  of  the  American  lakes  can  compare  with  Lake  Superior  in  healthfulness  of 
climate  during  the  summer  months,  and  there  is  no  place  so  well  calculated  to  re 
store  the  health  of  an  invalid,  who  has  suffered  from  the  depressing  miasms  of  the 
fever-breeding  soil  of  the  south-western  states.  This  opinion  is  fast  gaining  ground 
among  medical  men,  who  are  now  recommending  to  their  patients  the  healthful 
climate  of  this  favored  lake,  instead  of  sending  them  to  die  in  enervating  south 
ern  latitudes. 

The  waters  of  this  vast  inland  sea,  covering  an  area  of  over  32,000  square  miles> 
exercise  a  powerful  influence  in  modifying  the  two  extremes  of  heat  and  cold. 


MICHIGAN. 


395 


The  uniformity  of  temperature  thus  produced,  is  highly  favorable  to  animal  and 
vegetable  life.  The  most  delicate  fruits  and  plants  are  raised  without  injury; 
while  four  or  five  degrees  further  south,  they  are  destroyed  by  the  early  frosts.  It 
is  a  singular  fact,  that  Lake  Superior  never  freezes  in  the  middle;  and  along  the 
shores,  the  ice  seldom-  extends  out  more  than  fifteen  to  twenty  miles.  The  temper 
ature  of  its  waters  rarely,  if  ever  change,  and  are  almost  always  at  40  deg.  Fahren 
heit — the  maximum  density  of  water.  I  rarely  omitted  taking  a  morning  bath 
during  my  exploring  cruises  along  the  south  shore  of  the  lake,  in  the  months  of 
August  and  September,  and  found  the  temperature  of  the  water  near  the  shore, 
much  warmer  than  that  along  the  north  shore.  I  also  observed  a  rise  and  fall  in 
the  water — or  a  tidular  motion,  frequently.  In  midsummer,  the  climate  is  delight 
ful  beyond  comparison,  while,  at  the  same  time,  the  air  is  softly  bracing.  The 
winds  are  variable,  and  rarely  continue  for  more  than  two  or  three  days  in  the 
same  quarter.  We  have  no  epidemics,  no  endemics";  miasmatic  affections,  with 
their  countless  ills,  are  unknown  here  ;  and  the  luster  of  the  languid  eye  is  restored, 
the  paleness  of  the  faded  cheek  disappears  when  brought  into  our  midst.  The 
purity  of  the  atmosphere  makes  it  peculiarly  adapted  to  all  those  afflicted  with  pul 
monary  complaints,  and  such  a  thing  as  consumption  produced  by  the  climate,  is 
wholly  unknown.  Fever  and  ague,  that  terrible  scourge  of  Illinois,  Kanzas  and 
Iowa,  is  rapidly  driven  away  before  the  pure  and  refreshing  breezes  which  come 
down  from  the  north-west ;  and  thousands  of  invalids  from  the  states  below,  have 
already  found  here  a  safe  retreat  from  their  dreaded  enemy.  It  is  also  a  singular 
fact,  that  persons  suffering  from  asthma  or  phthisis,  have  been  greatly  relieved,  or, 
in  some  instances,  permanently  cured  by  a  residence  in  this  climate.  Having  had 
much  experience  in  camping  out  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  sleeping  con 
stantly  on  the  sandy  beach,  with  and  without  a  tent,  a  few  feet  from  the  water's 
edge.  I  would  say,  give  me  the  open  air  in  summer  to  the  confinement  of  the  best 
houses  ever  constructed.  It  is  never  very  dark  in  this  latitude,  and  the  northern 
lights  are  usually  visible  every  clear  night.  Although  myself  and  companions 
were  exposed  to  all  kinds  of  weather  on  our  exploring  excursions — with  feet  wet 
every  day,  and  nearly  all  day,  sleeping  on  the  beach,  exposed  to  heavy  dew,  yet  not 
one  of  the  party  ever  suffered  from  exposure!  Dr.  Owen,  the  celebrated  United 
States  geologist,  says:  'At  the  Pembina  settlement  (in  latitude  49  deg.),  to  a  popu 
lation  of  five  thousand,  there  was  but  a  single  physician,  and  he  told  me,  that  with 
out  an  additional  salary  allowed  him  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  the  diseases  of 
the  settlement  would  not  afford  him  a  living.'  " 


The  Copper  districts  are  Ontonagon,  Portage  Lake  and  Kewenaw  Point  The 
principal  iron  district,  Marquette.  The  principal  mines  in  the  Ontonagon  district 
are  the  Minnesota,  Central  and  Rockland ;  in  the  Portage  Lake,  Pewaubie,  Quincy, 
Franklin  and  Isle  Hoy  ale ;  and  in  the  Kewenaw  Point,  Cliff,  Copper  Falls,  North 
west  and  Central.  The  value  of  the  copper  product,  in  1860,  was  about  three  mil 
lions  of  dollars. 

The  existence  of  rich  deposits  of  copper  in  the  Lake  Superior  region,  has  been 
known  from  the  earliest  times.  Father  Claude  Allouez,  the  Jesuit  missionary,  who 
founded  the  mission  of  St.  Mary,  in  1668,  says  that  the  Indians  respect  this  lake 
as  a  divinity,  and  make  sacrifices  to  it,  partly,  perhaps,  on  account  of  its  magni 
tude,  or  for  its  goodness  in  furnishing  them  with  fishes.  He  farther  adds,  that  be 
neath  its  waters  pieces  of  copper  are  found  of  from  ten  to  twenty  pounds,  which 
the  savages  often  preserved  as  so  many  divinities.  Other  published  descriptions 
speak  of  it.  Charlevoix,  who  visited  the  west  in  1722,  says  that  the  copper  here 
is  so  pure  that  one  of  the  monks,  who  was  bred  a  goldsmith,  made  from  it  several 
sacramental  articles. 

Recent  developments  show  that  the  mines  were  probably  worked  by  the  same 
mysterious  race  who,  anterior  to  the  Indians,  built  the  mounds  and  ancient  works 
of  the  west.  In  the  latter  have  been  found  various  copper  trinkets  bespangled 
with  silver  scales,  a  peculiar  feature  of  the  Lake  Superior  copper,  while  on  the 
shores  of  the  lake  itself,  abandoned  mines,  filled  by  the  accumulation  of  ages,  have 
recently  been  re-opened,  the  existence  of  which  was  unknown,  even  to  the  tradi- 


396 


MICHIGAN. 


tions  of  the  present  race  of  Indians.  There  have  been  found  remains  of  cop 
per  utensils,  in  the  form  of  knives  and  chisels ;  of  stone  hammers  to  the  amount  of 
cart  loads,  some  of  which  are  of  immense  size  and  weight;  of  wooden  bowls  for 
boiling  water  from  the  mines,  and  numerous  levers  of  wood,  used  in  raising  mass 
copper  to  the  surface. 


The  Copper  and  Iron  Region  on  Lake  Superior. 

The  first  Englishman  who  ever  visited  the  copper  region  was  Alex.  Henry,  the 
trader.  In  August,  176n,  he  was  shown  by  the  Indians  a  mass  of  pure  copper,  on 
Ontonagon  River,  ten  miles  from  its  mouth,  that  weighed  3,800  pounds;  it  is  now 
in  Washington  City,  and  forms  part  of  the  Washington  monument.  He  cut  off  a 
piece  of  100  Ibs.  weight  with  an  axe.  The  first  mining  company  on  Lake  Superior 
was  organized  by  this  enterprising  explorer.  In  1770,  he,  with  two  others,  having 
interested  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  and  other  English  noblemen,  built  a  barge  at 
Point  aux  Pius,  and  laid  the  keel  of  a  sloop  of  forty  tuns.  They  were  in  search 
of  gold  and  silver,  and  expected  to  make  their  fortunes.  The  enterprise  failed, 
and  the  American  Revolution  occurring,  for  a  time  caused  the  mineral  resources 
of  the  country  to  be  forgotten. 

Dr.  Franklin,  commissioner  for  negotiating  the  peace  between  England  and  her 
lost  colonies,  purposely  drew  the  boundary  line  through  Lake  Superior,  so  as  to 
throw  this  rich  mineral  region,  of  the  existence  of  which  he  was  then  aware,  with 
in  the  possession  of  the  United  States.  He  afterward  stated  that  future  genera 
tions  would  pronounce  this  the  greatest  service  he  had  ever  given  to  his  country. 

The  celebrated  Connecticut-born  traveler,  Capt  Jonathan  Carver,  visited  these 
regions  in  1769,  and  in  his  travels  dwells  upon  their  mineral  wealth.  The  first 
definite  information  in  regard  to  the  metallic  resources  of  Lake  Superior,  was  pub 
lished  in  1841,  by  Dr.  Douglas  Hough  ton,  geologist  to  the  state  of  Michigan.  In 
1843,  the  Indian  title  to  the  country  was  extinguished  by  a  treaty  with  the  Chip- 
pewas,  and  settlers  came  in,  among  them  several  Wisconsin  miners,  who  selected 
large  tracts  of  land,*  including  many  of  those  now  occupied  by  the  best  mines  in 
the  country.  In  the  summer  of  1844,  the  first  mining  operations  were  commenced 

*  By  an  act  of  congress,  in  1850,  the  mineral  lands  of  Lake  Superior  were  thrown  into  mar 
ket,  with  the  right  of  pre-emption,  as  to  occupants  of  other  public  lands  ;  and  to  occupants 
and  lessees,  the  privilege  of  purchasing  one  full  section  at  the  minimum  price  of  $2  50  per 


MICHIGAN.  397 

on  Eagle  Elver,  by  the  Lake  Superior  Copper  Company.  They  sold  out  after  two 
or  three  years'  labor,  and  at  the  very  moment  when  they  were  upon  a  vein  which 
proved  rich  in  copper,  now  known  as  the  Cliff  Mine. 

The  first  mining  operations  brought  to  light  many  masses  of  native  copper  which 
contained  silver.  This  caused  great  excitement  in  the  eastern  cities,  and,  with  the 
attendant  exaggerations,  brought  on  "  the  copper  fever  "  so  that  the  next  year,  1845, 
the  shores  of  Keweenaw  Point  were  whitened  with  the  tents  of  speculators.  The 
next  year  the  fever  reached  its  hight,  and  speculations  in  worthless  stocks  con 
tinued  until  1847,  when  the  bubble  had  burst.  Many  were  ruined,  and  the  coun 
try  almost  deserted,  and  of  the  many  companies  formed  few  only  had  actually  en 
gaged  in  mining.  They  were,  mostly,  merely  stock  gambling  schemes.  Now, 
about  one  third  of  all  the  copper  produced  on  the  globe  comes  from  this  region, 
Such  is  its  surprising  richness,  that  the  day  may  not  be  very  distant  when  its  an 
nual  product  will  exceed  the  present  product  from  all  the  other  miaes  worked  by 
man  combined. 

We  continue  this  subject  from  a  valuable  article,  published  in  1860,  in  the 
Detroit  Tribune,  on  the  copper  and  iron  interest  of  Michigan.  The  notes 
are  entirely  from  other  sources: 

This  great  interest  of  Michigan  was  first  brought  into  public  notice  by  the  enor 
mous  speculations  and  the  mad  fever  of  1845.  The  large  spur  of  country  which  pro 
jects  far  out  into  the  lake,  having  its  base  resting  on  a  line  drawn  across  from 
L'Anse  Bay  to  Ontonagon,  and  the  Porcupine  Mountains  for  its  spine,  became  the 
El  Dorado  of  all  copperdom  of  that  day.  In  this  year  the  first  active  operations 
were  commenced  at  the  Cliff  Mine,  just  back  of  Eagle  Kiver  harbor.  Three  years 
later,  in  1848,  work  was  undertaken  at  the  Minesota,  some  fifteen  miles  back  from 
the  lake  at  Ontonagon. 

The  history  of  the  copper  mines  on  Lake  Superior  shows  that  even  the  best  mines 
disappointed  the  owners  in  the  beginning.  We  give  the  facts  relative  to  the  three 
mines  at  present  in  the  Lake  Superior  region  to  illustrate  this.  The  Cliff  Mine 
was  discovered  in  1845,  and  worked  three  years  without  much  sign  of  success;  it 
changed  hands  at  the  very  moment  when  the  vein  was  opened  which  proved  after 
ward  to  be  so  exceedingly  rich  in  copper  and  silver,  producing  now  on  an  average 
1,500  tuns  of  stamp,  barrel,  and  mass  copper  per  annum. 

The  Minesota  Mine  was  discovered  in  1848,  and  for  the  first  three  years  gave 
no  very  encouraging  results.  The  first  large  mass  of  native  copper  of  about  seven 
tuns  was  found  in  a  pit  made  bv  an  ancient  race.  After  that  discovery  much  mo 
ney  was  spent  before  any  further  indications  of  copper  were  found.  This  mine 
yields  now  about  2,000  tuns  of  copper  per  annum,  and  declared  for  the  year  1858 
a  net  dividend  of  $300,000.  The  dividends  paid  since  1852  amount  to  upward  of 
$1,500,000  on  a  paid  up  capital  of  $66,000.* 

*The  cost  to  the  stockholders  of  the  Cliff  Mine  was  $18  50  per  share  on  6,000  shares,  and 
the  total  cash  paid  in  was  $110,905.  The  highest  selling  price  per  share  has  been  $245. 
The  years  1845,  1846  and  1847  not  a  dollar  of  returns  came  from  the  enterprise.  In  1848 
the  mine  was  so  far  opened  as  to  be  worked  with  profit.  Since  then  the  dividends  in  round 
numbers  have  been,  in  1849,  $60,000 ;  1850,  $84,000  ;  1851,  $60,000  ;  1852,  $60,000 ;  1853, 
$90,000;  1854,  $108,000  ;  1855,  $78,000  ;  1856,  $180,000  ;  1857,  $180,000  ;  and  1858,  $209,000. 
Up  to  Jan.  1,  1859,  the  dividends  paid  stockholders,  added  to  the  cash,  copper  and  copper 
ore  on  hand,  amounted  to  over  $3,700,000. 

The  cost  to  the  stockholders  of  the  Minesota  Mine  was  $3  per  share  on  20,000  shares,  arid 
the  total  cash  paid  in,  as  above  stated,  $66,000.  The  highest  selling  price  per  share  has 
been  $110.  In  1848,  $14,000  was  expended,  and  $1,700  worth  of  copper  produced  ;  in  1849, 
expenditures,  $28,000,  copper  produced,  $14,000  ;  1850,  expenditures,  $58,000,  copper  pro 
duced,  $29,000  ;  in  1851,  expenditures,  $88,000,  copper  produced,  $90,000.  In  1852,  the  fifth 
year  from  the  beginning,  the  mine  had  been  so  far  opened  that  ore  in  greater  quantities 
could  be  taken  out,  and  the  first  dividend  was  declared  ;  it  was  $30,000  ;  in  1853,  dividend, 
$60,000;  1854,  $90,000;  1855,  200,000;  and  in  1856,  $300,000;  since  then  the  dividends 
have  been  about  $200,000  per  annum.  In  all  the  stockholders  have  received  more  than  a 
million  of  money  for  their  original  investment  of  $66,000,  a  fair  reward'  for  their  five  years 
waiting  on  a  first  dividend. 

These  statistics,  astonishing  as  they  may  seem,  are  equaled  in  mining  experience  in  othef 


398  MICHIGAN.  " 

The  same  has  been  experienced  at  the  Pewabic  Mine.  That  mine  commenced 
operations  in  the  year  1855,  with  an  expenditure  of  $26,357,  which  produced 
$1,080  worth  of  copper;  the  second  year  it  expended  $40,820,  and  produced  $31,- 
492  of  copper;  in  1857,  $54,484  of  expenses  produced  $44,058  worth  of  copper;  in 

countries.  That  correct  information  should  be  disseminated  upon  this  subject,  is  due  to  the 
assistance  required  for  an  early  development  of  the  immense  natural  mineral  wealth  that  our 
country  possesses.  Hence  we  lengthen  this  note  by  statistics  of  successful  British  mines,  as 
given  by  a  writer  familiar  with  the  subject  : 

"He  has  struck  a  mine!"  is  one  of  those  sentences  in  every  one's  mouth  to  indicate  extra 
ordinary  good  fortune.  Phrases  like  these,  passing  into  popular  every  day  use,  must  orig 
inate  in  some  great  truth  impressed  upon  the  public  mind.  This  expression  is  doubtless  of 
foreign  origin,  for  the  Americans  know  so  little  of  mining,  that  all  enterprises  of  this  kind 
are  by  them  reproachfully  termed  speculative.  Yet,  when  conducted  on  correct  business 
principles,  and  with  knowledge,  few  investments  are  more  certain  than  those  made  in  this 
useful  branch  of  industry. 

"This  statement  can  now  well  be  believed  which  has  lately  been  made  by  the  London  Min 
ing  Journal,  that  'taking  alj  the  investments  made  in  that  country  (England)  in  mining  enter 
prises  (other  than  coal  and  iron)  good,  bad  and  indifferent,  at  home  and  abroad,  the  returns 
from  the  good  mines  have  paid  a  larger  interest  upon  the  entire  outlay  than  is  realized  in  any 
other  species  of  investments.' 

"  The  exact  figures  are,  for  mining,  an  annual  interest  of  13  1-2  per  cent.  Other  invest 
ments  4  8-10  per  cent.  Amount  of  dividends  paid  upon  investments  in  mining,  111  per 
cent. 

This  is  doubtless  owing  to  the  fact  that  in  England  raining  is  treated  as  a  regular  busi 
ness,  and  is  never  undertaken  by  those  who  are  not  willing  to  devote  the  same  attention, 
time,  and  money  to  it,  that  are  considered  necessary  to  the  success  of  any  other  business." 

We  have  before  us  a  list  of  twenty-  three  English  Mining  Companies,  showing,  first,  the 
number  of  shares  of  each ;  second,  the  cash  cost  per  share ;  third,  the  present  selling  price 
per  share;  ana  fourth,  the  amount  paid  in  dividends  per  share.  The  mines  worked  are 
principally  copper  and  lead. 

From  this  list  we  gather  the  following  facts,  which  we  express  in  round  numbers :  These 
twenty-three  companies  invested  in  their  enterprises  one  million  and  forty  thousand  dollars. 
The  present  value  of  their  property  is  eight  millions  of  dollars.  The  shareholders  have  re 
ceived  in  dividends  fourteen  millions  of  dollars.  The  average  cost  per  share  was  sixty  five 
dollars.  The  present  selling  price  per  share  is  five  hundred  and  two  dollars;  and  the 
amount  of  dividends  received  per  share,  eight  hundred  and  seventy-three  dollars. 

What  other  branch  of  industry  will  average  such  returns  as  these?  And  is  it  not  owing 
to  the  ignorance  of  the  business  men  of  the  United  States  as  to  the  actual  facts  of  mining, 
when  legitimately  pursued,  that  has,  in  a  measure,  prevented  our  industry  from  being  partly 
directed  in  that  channel  ? 

From  the  list  we  group  some  of  the  most  successful  of  the  mines,  arranging  the  statistics 
so  that  they  can  be  seen  at  a  glance.  They  dwarf  by  comparison  all  ordinary  investments 
by  the  immensity  of  their  returns. 

Jamaica,  Lead  Mine.  No.  of  shares  76.  Amount  paid  per  share  $19.  Present  price  per 
share,  $250.  Total  amount  paid  in,  $1,444.  Present  value,  $190,000.  Increase  value  on 
the  original  investment,  thirteen  times. 

Wheal  Basset,  Copper.  No.  of  shares,  512.  Amount  paid  per  share,  $25  25.  Present 
price  per  share,  $2,050.  Total  amount  paid  in,  $12,800.  Present  value,  $1,049,600.  In 
crease  in  value,  eighty  times. 

South  Caradon,  Copper.  No.  of  shares,  256.  Cost  per  share,  $12  30.  Present  price  per 
share,  $1,500.  Total  amount  paid  in,  $3,200.  Present  value,  $384,000.  Increase  in  value, 
one  hundred  and  twenty-two  times. 

Wheal  Butter,  Copper.  No.  of  shares,  256.  Amount  paid  per  share,  $25.  Present  price 
per  share,  $3, 095.  Total  cash  capital,  $6,500.  Present  cash  value,  $792,000.  Increase  value, 
one  hundred  and  twenty-four  times. 

Devon  Great  Consols,  Copper.  No.  of  shares,  1,024.  Amount  paid  per  share,  $5.  Pres 
ent  price  per  share,  $2,050.  Total  cash  capital,  $5,120.  Present  cash  value,  $2,099,200. 
Increase  value  per  share  more  than  four  hundred  times. 

Taking  the  above  five  mines  together,  and  the  sum  of  the  original  cash  capital  paid  in 
by  the  stockholders  was,  in  round  numbers,  seventy-nine  thousand  dollars,  and  the  present 
combined  value  of  the  investments,  reckoning  them  at  the  present  selling  price  of  the  shares, 
is  over  four  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars. 

Since  the  foregoing  was  written,  later  sta-tistics  than  these  have  come  to  hand  from  Gryll's 
Annual  Mining  Sheet,  containing  statistics  of  the  copper  mines  of  Cornwall,  for  the  year 
ending  June  30,  1859. 

It  appears  from  these  that  during  the  past  year  the  last  mentioned  mine — the  '  Devon 
Great  Consols,'  turned  out  23,748  gross  tuns  of  copper.  On  the  1st  of  June  last,  the  lucky 


MICHIGAN  399 


1858,  the  amount  expended  was  $109,152,  and  the  receipts  for  copper  $76,538 ;  the 
total  expense  amounts  to  $235,816,  and  the  total  receipts  for  copper  to  $153  168, 


Outline  view  of  the    Minesota  Mine. 

The  view  shows  only  a  small  part  of  the  surface  works.  The  aggregate  extent  of  openings  under  ground 
throughout  the  mine,  by  shafts  and  levels,  is  31,893  feet,  or  over  six  miles  in  extent.  The"  deepest  shaft  is 
712  feet.  The  entire  working  force  at  the  mine  is  718,  and  the  total  population  supported  there  by  it  1,215. 

It  is  scarcely  ten  years  that  mining  has  been  properly  commenced  in  that  re 
mote  region.  At  that  time  it  was  difficult,  on  account  of  the  rapids  of  St.  Marys 
River,  to  approach  it  by  water  with  large  craft.  Being  more  than  a  thousand  miles 
distant  from  the  center  of  the  Union,  destitute  of  all  the  requirements  for  tlte  de 
velopment  of  mines,  every  tool,  every  part  of  machinery,  every  mouthful  ofpro- 
vision  had  to  be  hauled  over  the  rapids,  boated  along  the  shores  for  hundreds  of 
miles  to  the  copper  region,  and  there  often  carried  on  the  back  of  man  and  beast 
to  the  place  where  copper  was  believed  to  exist.  Every  stroke  of  the  pick  cost 
tenfold  more  than  in  populated  districts;  every  disaster  delayed  the  operations  for 
weeks  and  months. 

The  opening  of  the  Sault  Canal  has  changed  all  this  and  added  a  wonderful  im 
petus  to  the  business,  the  mining  interests,  and  the  development  of  the  Lake  Su 
perior  country.  Nearly  one  hundred  different  vessels,  steam  and  sail,  have  been 

shareholders  received  as  their  annual  dividend  $220  per  share.  That  is  mine  stock  worth 
having;  it  cost  only  $5  per  share,  fifteen  years  ago,  when  the  mine  was  first  opened. 

It  is  true  that  these  are  the  successful  mines.  Mines  to  be  placed  in  this  class  must  be 
either  ordinary  mines  managed  with  great  skill,  or  exceedingly  rich  mines,  which  possess 
naturally  such  treasures,  that  they  eventually  yield  immense  return  in  spite  of  all  blunders 
in  management." 

To  the  above  extract  we  append  the  remarks  that  the  prominent  difficulties  in  this  coun 
try,  in  the  way  of  successful  mining,  consist  in  the  total  ignorance  of  those  who  generally 
engage  in  the  business,  most  American  mining  companies  proving  but  mere  phantoms  on 
which  to  build  airy  castles,  and  most  American  mines  but  ugly  holes  in  which  to  bury  money, 
which,  like  Kidd's  treasure  is  never  found  again.  None  but  those  used  from  youth  to  the 
business  of  mining,  and  for  the  very  metals  mined  for,  are  fit  to  conduct  the  business.  Noth 
ing  but  the  mechanical  education  to  open  a  mine,  and  the  skill  to  work  the  machinery, 
united  with  a  knowledge  of  geology  and  chemistry,  and  more  especially  that  intricate  and 
delicate  branch,  metallurgy,  joined  to  extraordinary  executive  skill  in  the  business  manage 
ment,  will  conduct  an  enterprise  of  the  kind  to  any  but  a  disastrous  issue. 

Aside  from  this,  such  has  been  the  selfishness,  ignorance  and  neglect  of  those  persons  in 
this  country  who  have  had  the  control  of  these  enterprises,  that  let  any  mine  promise  ever 
so  fairly,  an  investment  in  its  stock  is  now  regarded  as  silly  as  a  purchase  in  a  lottery. 
It  is  said  that  six  millions  of  dollars  were  lost  during  "  the  copper  fever"  on  Lake  Su 
perior,  much  of  it  indirectly  stolen  by  smooth  talking  gentlemen,  regarded  as  reputable 
among  their  neighbors. 


400  MICHIGAN. 

engaged  the  past  season  in  its  trade,  and  the  number  of  these  is  destined  largely  to 
increase  year  by  year,  an  indication  of  the  growth  of  business  and  the  opening  up 
Of  the  country.  For  the  growth  in  the  copper  interest  we  have  only  to  refer  to  the 
shipments  from  that  region  year  by  year.  These,  in  gross,  are  as  follows:  in  1853, 
2,535  tuns;  1854,  3,500;  1855,  4,544;  1856,  5,357;  1857,6,094;  1858,  6,025:  1859, 
6,245;  and  in  1860,  estimated,  9,000. 

The  same  facts  of  development  would  hold  generally  true,  with  regard  to  the 
other  industrial  interests  of  that  vast  country. 

It  remains  yet  almost  wholly  "  a  waste,  howling  wilderness."  At  Marquette, 
Portage  Lake,  Copper  Harbor,  Eagle  River,  Eagle  Harbor,  and  Ontonagon,  and 
the  mines  adjacent,  are  the  only  places  where  the  primeval  forests  had  given  place 
to  the  enterprise  of  man,  and  these,  in  comparison  with  the  whole  extent  of  terri 
tory  embraced  in  this  region,  are  but  mere  insignificant  patches.  What  this  coun 
try  may  become  years  hence,  it  would  defy  all  speculations  now  to  predict,  but 
there  seems  no  reason  to  doubt  that  it  will  exceed  the  most  sanguine  expecta 
tions. 

The  copper  region  is  divided  into  three  districts,  viz :  the  Ontonagon,  the  Ke- 
weenaw  Point,  and  the  Portage  Lake.  Each  district  has  some  peculiarities  of 
product,  the  first  developing  more  masses,  while  the  latter  are  more  prolific  in 
vein-rock,  the  copper  being  scattered  throughout  the  rock. 

There  have  been  since  1845  no  less  than  1-16  copper  mining  companies  organized 
under  the  general  law  of  Michigan.  The  amount  of  capital  invested  and  now  in 
use,  or  which  has  been  paid  out  in  explorations  and  improvements,  and  lost,  is  es 
timated  by  good  judges  at  $6,000,000;,  The  nominal  amount  of  capital  stock  in 
vested  in  all  the  companies  which  have  charters  would  reach  an  indefinite  number 
of  millions.  As  an  offset  to  this,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  Cliff  and  Minnesota 
mines  have  returned  over  $2,000,000  in  dividends  from  the  beginning  of  their  ope 
rations,  and  the  value  of  these  two  mines  will  more  than  cover  the  whole  amount 
spent  in  mining,  and  for  all  the  extravagant  undertakings  which  have  been  entered 
upon  and  abandoned.  While  success  has  been  the  exception  and  failure  the  rule 
in  copper  speculations,  yet  it  must  be  admitted  that  these  exceptions  are  remarka 
bly  tempting  ones.  Doubtless  there  is  immense  wealth  still  to  be  developed  in 
these  enterprises,  and  this  element  of  wealth  in  the  Lake  Superior  region  is  yet 
to  assume  a  magnitude  now  unthought  of. 

The  copper  is  smelted  mainly  in  Detroit,  Cleveland  and  Boston,  the  works  in 
Detroit  being  the  largest  There  is  one  establishment  at  Pittsburg  which  does 
most  of  the  smelting  for  the  Cliff  Mine;  one  at  Bergen,  N.  Y.,  and  one  at  New 
Haven,  Ct  There  are  two  at  Baltimore,  but  they  are  engaged  on  South  American 
mineral.  The  Bruce  Mines,  on  the  Canada  side  of  Lake  Huron,  have  recently  put 
smelting  works  in  operation  on  their  location.  Prior  to  this  the  mineral  was  bar 
reled  up  and  shipped  to  London,  being  taken  over  as  ballast  in  packet  ships  at  low 
rates. 

The  amount  of  copper  smelted  in  Detroit  we  can  only  judge  by  the  amount 
landed  here,  but  this  will  afford  a  pretty  accurate  estimate.  The  number  of  tuns 
landed  here,  in  1859,  was  3,088.  The  copper  yield  of  Lake  Superior  will  produce 
between  60  and  70  per  cent,  of  ingot  copper,  which  is  remarkably  pure.  The  net 
product  of  the  mines  for  1859  is  worth  in  the  markets  of  the  world  nearly  or  quite 
$2,000,000.  This  large  total  shows  the  capabilities  of  this  region  and  affords  us 
some  basis  of  calculation  as  to  the  value  and  probable  extent  of  its  future  devel 
opments.  Beside  this  amount,  already  noticed,  as  landed  at  Detroit,  there  were 
1,268  tuns  brought  there  from  the  Bruce  Mines,  and  sent  to  London. 

There  are  indications  that  Michigan  is  slowly  but  surely  taking  the  rank  to  which  she 
is  entitled,  in  the  manufacture  as  well  as  production  of  IRON.  The  first  shipment  of  pig 
iron  of  any  consequence  was  made  by  the  Pioneer  Company  in  the  fall  of  1858. 

The  Lake  Superior  iron  has  been  proclaimed  the  best  in  the  world,  a  proposition  that 
none  can  successfully  refute.  Its  qualities  are  becoming  known  in  quarters  where  it  would 
naturally  be  expected  its  superiority  would  be  admitted  reluctantly,  if  at  all.  It  is  now  sent 
to  New  York  and  Ohio,  and  even  to  Pennsylvania — an  agency  for  its  sale  having  been 
established  in  Pittsburg.  For  gearing,  shafting,  cranks,  flanges,  and,  we  ought  by  all 
means  to  add,  car  wheels,  no  other  should  be  used,  provided  it  can  be  obtained. 


MICHIGAN.  4Q1 

A  large  amount  of  capital  is  invested  in  the  iron  interest  in  Michigan — over  two  millions 
of  dollars. 

Marquette  is  the  only  point  on  Lake  Superior  where  the  iron  ore  deposits  have  been 
worked.  There  are  deposits  of  iron  in  the  mountains  back  of  L'Anse,  but  this  wonderful 
region  leaves  nothing  more  to  be  desired  for  the  present.  At  a  distance  of  eighteen  miloa 
from  the  lake,  are  to  be  found  iron  mountains,  named  the  Sharon,  Burt,  Lake  Superior, 
Cleveland,  Collins,  and  Barlow,  while  eight  miles  further  back  lie  the  Ely  and  St.  Clair 
mountains.  Three  of  these  mountains  are  at  present  worked,  tho  Sharon,  the  Cleaveland. 
and  the*  Lake  Superior,  and  contain  enough  ore  to  supply  the  world  for  generations  to  come. 
The  mountains  further  back  embrace  tracts  of  hundreds  of  acres  rising  to  a  hight  of  from 
four  to  six  hundred  feet,  which  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  from  the  explorations  made, 
are  solid  iron  ore.  The  extent  of  the  contents  of  these  mountains  is  perfectly  fabulous,  in 
fact,  so  enormous  as  almost  to  baffle  computation.  The  ore,  too,  is  remarkably  rich,  yield 
ing  about  seventy  per  cent,  of  pure  metal.  There  are  now  in  operation  at  Marquette  three 
iron  mining  companies  and  two  blast  furnaces  for  making  charcoal  pig  iron,  the  Pioneer 
and  Meigs.  The  Pioneer  has  two  stacks  and  a  capacity  of  twenty  tuns  pig  iron  per  day; 
the  Meigs  one  stack,  capable  of  turning  out  about  eleven  tuns.  The  Northern  Iron  Com 
pany  is  building  a  large  bituminous  coal  furnace  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chocolate  River,  three 
miles  south  of  Marquette,  which  will  be  in  operation  early  in  the  summer. 

Each  of  the  mining  companies,  the  Jackson,  Cleveland  and  Lake  Superior,  have  docks 
at  the  harbor  for  shipment,  extending  out  into  the  spacious  and  beautiful  bay  which  lies 
in  front  of  Marquette,  to  a  sufficient  length  to  enable  vessels  of  the  largest  dimensions  tx» 
lie  by  their  side  and  be  loaded  directly  from  the  cars,  which  are  run  over  the  vessels  and 
"  dumped"  into  shutes,  which  are  made  to  empty  directly  into  the  holds.  The  process  of 
loading  is  therefore  very  expeditious  and  easy. 

The  amount  of  shipments  of  ore  for  1859,  from  Marquette  to  the  ports  below,  reaches 
75,000  gross  tuns  in  round  numbers,  and  the  shipments  of  pig  iron,  6,000  gross  tuns  more. 
To  this  must  be  added  the  amount  at  Marquette  when  navigation  closed,  the  amount  at 
the  mines  ready  to  be  brought  down,  and  the  amount  used  on  the  spot.  This  will  give  a 
total  product  of  the  iron  mines  of  Michigan,  for  the  past  year,  of  between  ninety  and  one 
hundred  thousand  tuns.  These  mining  companies  simply  mine  and  ship  the  ore  and  sell  it. 
Their  profit  ranges  between  seventy-five  cents  and  one  dollar  per  tun. 

The  quality  of  the  iron  of  Lake  Superior  is  conceded  by  all  to  be  the  best  in  the  world, 
as  the  analysis  of  Prof.  Johnston,  which  we  reproduce,  shows.  The  table  shows  the  rela 
tive  strength  per  square  inch  in  pounds:  Salisbury,  Ct.,  iron,  58,009;  Swedish  (best),  58,- 
184;  English  cable,  59,105;  Centre  county,  Pa.,  59,400;  Essex  county,  N.  Y.,  59,962; 
Lancaster  county,  Pa.,  58,661;  Russia  (best),  76,069;  Common  English  and  American, 
30,000;  Lake  Superior,  89,5^2. 

The  manufacture  of  pig  iron  at  Marquette  will  probably  be  carried  on  even  more  exten 
sively,  as  the  attention  of  capitalists  is  directed  to  it.  The  business  may  be  extended  in 
definitely,  as  the  material  is  without  limit,  and  the  demand,  thus  far,  leaving  nothing  on 
hand. 

These  facts  exhibit  the  untold  wealth  of  Michigan  in  iron  alone,  and  point  with  certain 
ty  to  an  extent  of  business  that  will  addjnillions  to  our  invested  capital,  dot  our  state  with 
iron  manufactories  of  ;ill  kinds,  and  furnish  regular  employment  to  tens  of  thousands  of 
our  citizens,  while  our  raw  material  and  our  wares  shall  be  found  in  all  the  principal  mar 
kets  of  the  world. 

In  the  mining  regions  are  the  following  towns,  the  largest  of  which  has 
1,200  souls.  Ontonagon  is  at  the  mouth  of  Ontonagon  River,  and  is  the* 
largest  mining  depot.  It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Minnesota  Mine,  and  will  in 
time  have  a  railroad  connection  with  Milwaukie  and  Chicago,  and  eventually 
with  Cincinnati,  heavy  grants  of  land  having  been  made  through  Michigan 
to  aid  in  the  enterprise  :  also  with  the  Canadian  railroads.  Eagle  River  is  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Cliff  and  several  other  mines.  Eagle  Harbor,  Copper  Harbor, 
and  Fort  Wilkins,  the  latter  a  delightful  summer  resort,  all  are  in  the  ,smie 
neighborhood.  Marquette  is  the  iron  city  of  Lake  Superior:  a  railroad  is 
constructing  and  partly  finished,  to  connect  it  with  Little  Noquet  Bay,  117 
miles  distant,  on  Lake  Michigan. 

We  conclude  this  notice  of  this  district  by  a  description  of  LIFE  AT  THE 
MINES,  as  given  by  a  visitor  to  the  Cliff. 

The  situation  of  the  Cliff  Mine  is  one  of  great  picturesqueness.  The  valley  which  is 
about  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  ia  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a  range 

26 


402  MICHIGAN. 

of  mountains,  which  sweeps  round  in  a  crescent  form,  trending  in  a  south-westerly  direc 
tion,  and  forming  the  west  boundary  of  the  Eagle  River.  Toward  the  valley  these  moun 
tains  present  a  front  of  massive  grandeur,  being  mostly  perpendicular,  and  having  an  ele 
vation  of  from  three  to  four  hundred  feet  above  the  valley. 

The  population  of  the  mine  location  is  set  down  at  about  twelve  hundred  persons.  Each 
family  has  a  separate  cottage,  and  is  required  to  take  four  boarders.  This  system  of  di 
viding  the  population  into  small  families  has  been  found  to  work  better  for  the  mine,  and 
to  be  more  satisfactory  to  the  miners  themselves,  than  the  congregation  in  large  boarding 
houses.  The  population  consists  principally  of  Cornishmen,  the  miners  being  exclusively 
of  that  class.  The  mine  "  captains  "  are  also  old  and  experienced  '*  captains  "  from  the 
copper  mines  of  Cornwall,  and  are  a  jolly,  good  tempered  set  of  men.  The  miners  them 
selves  appear  to  be  good  humored,  sociable,  and  intelligent  in  everything  relating  to  their 
business 

The  ordinary  labor  "  at  grass"  is  mostly  done  by  Dutch,  Irish,  and  Canadian  French. 
Tho  breaking  of  the  rock  sent  up  from  below  is  principally  done  by  the  Dutch,  the  Irish 
are  the  teamsters,  and  the  French  are  employed  in  a  variety  of  ways  on  the  surface.  From 
the  intense  national  antipathy  between  the  Cornish  and  the  Irish,  the  number  of  the  latter 
employed  is  very  small.  From  the  fact  of  the  Cliff  being  so  old  and  extensive  a  mine, 
most  of  the  newly  arrived  Cornish  make  directly  for  it,  thus  giving  the  managers  oppor 
tunity  to  select  the  best.  The  Cornish  miners  at  this  place  are  therefore  good  specimens 
of  their  class.  Their  dialect  varies  greatly,  according  to  the  section  of  Cornwall  from 
which  they  come,  some  speaking  with  but  a  slight  variation  from  the  usual  manner,  and 
others  having  a  vocabulary  and  intonation  of  voice  that  render  their  conversation  bewil 
dering  to  the  uninitiated. 

The  location  comprises  three  churches,  Episcopal,  Wesleyan  Methodist  and  Catholic. 
In  addition  to  the  churches  there  is  a  well  built  school  house,  store,  provision  warehouse, 
and  other  buildings.  No  tavern  or  beer  shop  stands  within  the  location,  the  sale  of  alco 
holic  or  spiritous  liquors  being  forbidden  within  the  limits.  One  or  two  whisky  and  beer 
shops  stand  beyond  the  location.  Drunkenness  is  rigidly  interdicted  anywhere  on  the 
company's  property.  All  persons  living  on  the  location  are  treated  as  belonging  to  the 
general  family,  and  are  subjected  to  a  code  of  rules.  The  miners  have  a  monthly  contri 
bution  reserved  from  their  wages  for  the  support  of  the  doctor,  who  attends  the  miners  and 
their  families  without  additional  charge. 

BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCHES,    ETC. 

Pontiac,  a  chief  of  the  Ottawa  tribe,  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  and  dis 
tinguished  men  of  his  race  who  have  figured  in  history.  Maj.  Rogers,  who  knew 
him  and  the  tribe,s  over  whom  he  held  sway,  thus  speaks  of  them  in  1765  :  "The 
Indians  on  the  lakes  are  generally  at  peace  with  each  other.  They  are  formed 
into  a  sort  of  empire,  and  the  emperor  is  selected  from  the  eldest  tribe,  which  ifr 
the  Ottawas,  some  of  whom  inhabit  near  our  fort  at  Detroit,  but  are  mosth 
further  westward  toward  the  Mississippi.  Ponteack  is  their  present  king  or  em 
peror,  who  certainly  has  the  largest  empire  and  greatest  authority  of  any  Indian 
chief  that  has  appeared  on  the  continent  since  our  acquaintance  with  it.  He  puts 
on  an  air  of  majesty  and  princely  grandeur,  and  is  greatly  honored  and  revered 
by  his  subjects." 

"About  eight  miles  above  Detroit,  at  the  head  of  the  Detroit  River,  is  Pechee 
Island,  a  green  spot,  set  amid  the  clearest  waters,  surrounded  by  dense  forests, 
at  all  times  cool  from  the  breezes  of  the  northern  lakes,  and  removed  from  the  rest 
of  the  world.  Pontiac  made  this  island  his  summer  residence,  and  in  winter  lodged 
at  the  Ottawa  village  opposite,  on  the  Canadian  bank,  and  which  has  been  described 
as  having  been  situated  above  the  town  of  Detroit.  Poetry  may  imagine  him  here, 
musing  upon  the  inroads  of  the  English  and  the  declining  fortunes  of  his  race, 
and  looking  upon  the  gorgeous  domain  which  was  spread  around  him,  and  which 
now  constitutes  the  most  beautiful  part  of  Michigan — as  a  territory  which  was 
soon  to  pass  from  his  hands.  To  this  land  he  held  a  right  of  pre-emption,  the  time 
whereof  the  memory  of  man  ran  not  to  the  contrary ;  and  superadded  to  this,  a 
patent  from  the  Great  Spirit,  which  established  his  title  on  solid  ground." — Lan- 
maris  Michigan. 

Pontiac  displayed  more  system  in  his  undertakings  than  any  other  of  his  race 
of  whom  we  have  knowledge.  In  his  war  of  1763,  which  is  justly  called  "Pon- 


MICHIGAN. 


403 


tiac's  War"  he  appointed  a  commissary,  issued  bills  of  credit,  all  of  which  ho 
afterward  carefully  redeemed.  He  made  his  bills  or  notes  of  bark,  on  which  wa^ 
a  drawing  or  figure  of  what  he  wanted  for  it.  The  shape  of  an  otter,  the  insignia 
or  arms  of  his  nation  was  drawn  under  the  required  article.  After  the  conquest 
of  Canada  by  the  English,  Pontiac  sued  for  peace,  which  was  granted.  When  the 
American  Revolution  commenced,  the  Americans  sent  messages  to  him  to  meet 
them  in  council.  He  was  inclined  to  do  so,  but  was  prevented,  from  time  to  time, 
by  Gov.  Hamilton,  of  Detroit.  He  now  appeared  to  have  become  the  friend  of  the 
English,  and  to  reward  his  attachment,  the  British  government  granted  him  a  lib 
eral  pension.  It  is  related  that  his  fidelity  being  suspected,  a  spy  was  sent  to  ob 
serve  his  conduct  As  he  was  acting  professedly  as  a  British  agent  among  the 
Indians  in  Illinois,  the  spy  discovered  that  Pontiac,  in  his  speech,  was  betraying 
the  British  interests,  and  thereupon  plunged  a  knife  into  his  heart. 

James  Marquette,  the  celebrated  explorer  of  the  Mississippi,  and  one  of  the  most 
zealous  of  that  extraordinary  class  of  men,  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  was  born  in 
1637,  of  a  most  ancient  and  honorable  family  of  the  city  of  Laon,  France,  and  en 
tered,  at  the  early  age  of  17,  the  Society  of  Jesus;  after  studying  and  teaching  for 
many  years,  he  was  invested  with  the  priesthood,  upon  which  he  at  once  sought  a 
mission  in  some  land  that  knew  not  God,  that  he  might  labor  there  to  his  latest  breath, 
and  die  unaided  and  alone.  His  desire  was  gratified.  He  founded  the  missions  of 
St.  Marys,  St.  Ignace  and  Mackinaw.  For  nine  years  he  labored  among  the  In 
dians,  and  was  enabled  to  preach  to  them  in  ten  different  languages.  "  In  his  va 
rious  excursions,"  says  Bancroft,  "he  was  exposed  to  the  inclemencies  of  nature 
and  the  savage.  He  took  his  life  in  his  hands,  and  bade  them  defiance;  waded 
through  water  and  through  snows,  without  the  comfort  of  a  fire ;  subsisted  on 
pounded  maize;  was  freqently  without  any  other  food  than  the  unwholesome  moss 
gathered  from  the  rocks ;  traveled  far  and  wide,  but  never  without  peril.  Still, 
said  he,  life  in  the  wilderness  had  its  charms — his  heart  swelled  with  rapture,  as  he 
moved  over  the  waters,  transparent  as  the  most  limpid  fountain." 

In  May,  1685,  as  he  was  returning  up  Lake  Michigan  to  his  little  flock  at  Point 
Tgnace,  from  one  of  his  missions  of  love  to  the  Indians  of  the  Illinois,  he  felt  that 
his  final  hour  was  approaching.  Leaving  his  men  with  the  canoe,  he  landed  at  the 
mouth  of  a  stream  running  from  the  peninsula,  and  went  a  little  apart  to  pray. 
As  much  time  passed  and  he  did  not  return,  they  called  to  mind  that  he  said  some 
thing  of  his  death  being  at  hand,  and  on  anxiously  going  to  seek  him  found  him 
dead  where  he  had  been  praying.  They  dug  a  grave,  and  there  buried  the  holy 
man  in  the  sand. 

"The  Indians  of  Mackinaw  and  vicinity,  and  also  those  of  Kaskaskia,  were  .in 
great  sorrow  when  the  tidings  of  Marquette's  death  reached  them.  Not  long  after 
this  melancholy  event,  a  large  company  of  Ojibwas,  Ottawas,  and  Hurons,  who  had 
been  out  on  a  hunting  expedition,  landed  their  canoes  at  the  mouth  of  Marquette 
River,  with  the  intention  of  removing  his  remains  to  Mackinaw.  They  had  heard 
of  his  desire  to  have  his  body  interred  in  the  consecrated  ground  of  St.  Ignatius, 
and  they  had  resolved  that  the  dying  wish  of  the  missionary  should  be  fulfilled. 
As  they  stood  around  in  silence  and  gazed  upon  the  cross  that  marked  the  place 
of  his  burial,  the  hearts  of  the  stern  warriors  were  moved.  The  bones  of  the  mis 
sionary  were  dug  up  and  placed  in  a  neat  box  of  bark  made  for  the  occasion,  and 
the  numerous  canoes  which  formed  a  large  fleet  started  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  with  nothing  but  the  sighs  of  the  Indians  and  the  dip  of  the  paddles  to  break 
the  silence  of  the  scene.  As  they  advanced  toward  Mackinaw,  the  funeral  cortege 
was  met  by  a  large  number  of  canoes  bearing  Ottawas,  Hurons,  and  Iroquois,  and 
still  others  shot  out  ever  and  anon  to  join  the  fleet. 

When  they  arrived  in  sight  of  the  Point,  and  beheld  the  cross  of  St.  Ignatius  ns 
if  painted  against  the  northern  sky,  the  missionaries  in  charge  came  out  to  the 
beach  clad  in  vestments  adapted  to  the  occasion.  How  was  the  scene  hightened 
when  the  priests  commenced,  as  the  canoe  bearing  the  remains  of  Marquette  neawl 
the  shore,  to  chant  the  requiem  for  the  dead.  The  whole  population  was  out,  en 
tirely  covering  the  beach,  and  as  the  procession  marched  up  to  the  chapel,  with 
cross  and  prayer,  and  tapers  burning,  and  laid  the  bark  box  beneath  a  pall  made 
in  the  form  of  a  coffin,  the  sons  and  daughters  of  the  forest  wept.  After  the  funo 


404  MICHIGAN. 

ral  service  was  ended,  the  coffin  was  placed  in  a  vault  in  the  middle  of  the  church, 
where,  the  Catholic  historian  says,  '  Marquette  reposes  as  the  guardian  angel  of 
the  Ottawa  missions.' 

'  He  was  the  first  and  last  white  man  who  ever  had  such  an  assembly  of  the  wild 
sons  of  the  forest  to  attend  him  to  his  grave. 

'  So  many  stirring  events  succeeded  each  other  after  this  period — first,  the  war 
between  the  English  Colonists  and  the  French ;  then  the  Colonists  with  the  Indi 
ans,  the  Revolutionary  war,  the  Indian  wars,  and  finally  the  war  of  1812,  with  the 
death  of  all  those  who  witnessed  his  burial,  including  the  Fathers  who  officiated 
at  the  time,  whose  papers  were  lost,  together  with  the  total  destruction  and  evacu 
ation  of  this  mission  station  for  many  years,  naturally  obliterated  all  recollections 
of  the  transaction,  which  accounts  for  the  total  ignorance  of  the  present  inhabit 
ants  of  Point  St.  Ignatius  respecting  it.  The  locality  of  his  grave  is  lost,  but  only 
until  the  archangel's  trump,  at  the  last,  shall  summon  him  from  his  narrow  grave', 
with  those  plumed  and  painteM  warriors  who  now  lie  around  him.'  " 

Gen.  Wm.  Hull,  was  born  in  Derby,  Conn.,  in  1753,  and  was  educated  at  Yale 
College.  Entering  the  army  of  the  Revolution,  he  performed  most  valuable  ser 
vices  and  behaved  bravely  on  many  a  battle  field.  Washington  regarded  him  as 
one  of  his  most  useful  officers.  Jjn  1805,  when  Michigan  was  erected  into  a  terri 
tory,  he  was  appointed  by  congress  its  governor.  On  the  outbreak  of  the  war,  he 
was  commissioned  brigadier  general.  "  In  the  comparatively  weak  fort  at  Detroit," 
.says  Lossing,  "  he  was  invested  by  a  strong  force  of  British  and  Indians;  and,  to 
save  his  command  from  almost  certain  destruction,  he  surrendered  the  fort,  his 
army  of  two  thousand  men,  and  the  territory,  to  the  enemy.  For  this  he  was  tried 
for  treason  and  cowardice,  and  being  unable  to  produce  certain  official  testimony 
which  subsequently  vindicated  his  character,  he  was  found  guilty  of  the  latter,  and 
sentenced  to  be  shot.  The  president  of  the  United  States,  'in  consideration  of  his 
age  and  revolutionary  services,'  pardoned  him,  but  a  cloud  was  upon  his  fame  and 
honor.  He  published  a  vindicatory  memoir,  in  1824,  which  changed  public  opin 
ion  in  his  favor.  Yet  he  did  not  live  long  to  enjoy  the  effects  of  that  change.  He 
died  at  Newton,  on  the  29th  of  November,  1825,  at  the  age  of  seventy-two  years. 
A  Memoir  of  General  Hull,  by  his  daughter  and  grandson,  was  published  in  1848. 
It  fully  vindicates  the  character  of  the  injured  patriot,  by  documentary  evi 
dence." 

Stevens  Thompson  Mason,  the  first  governor  of  the  state  of  Michigan,  was  the 
only  son  of  Gen.  John  Mason,  of  Kentucky,  but  was  born  in  Virginia  in  1812.  At 
the  early  age  of  19,  he  was  appointed  secretary  of  the  territory  of  Michigan,  and 
at  the  age  of  22  was  acting  governor.  In  1836,  at  24  years  of  age,  he  was  chosen 
governor  of  the  new  state.  He  was  again  elected  in  1838,  and  died  in  1843,  when 
only  31  years  of  age. 

Gen.  Alexander  Macomb,  was  the  son  of  an  English  gentleman,  born  in  the 
British  garrison  at  Detroit,  on  the  3d  of  April,  1782,  just  at  the  close  of  the  Revo 
lution.  His  father  subsequently  settled  at  New  York.  He  entered  the  army  a^ 
a  cornet  at  an  early  age,  and  continued  in  the  service  until  his  death,  at  Washing 
ton  in  1841,  being  at  the  time  general-in-chief.  He  was  succeeded  by  Winfiel*! 
Scott.  He  was  an  excellent  officer,  and  for  his  services  at  the  battle  of  Plattsburg, 
congress  presented  him  with  a  vote  of  thanks  and  a  gold  medal. 

Dr.  Douglas  Houghton  was  born  in  Troy,  in  1809,  and  educated  for  the  medical 
profession.  In  1831,  he  was  appointed  surgeon  and  botanist  to  the  expedition  sent 
out  by  government  to  explore  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and  made  an  able  re 
port  upon  the  botany  of  the  region  through  which  he  passed.  Settling  in  Detroit, 
to  practice  medicine,  he  was  appointed,  in  1837,  state  geologist.  In  1842,  he  was 
elected  mayor  of  the  city  of  Detroit,  and  from  its  foundation  was  professor  in  the 
State  University  His  life  was  one  of  incessant  labor,  and  he  accomplished  more 
than  any  man  living  in  developing  the  resources  of  Michigan,  especially  its  min 
eral  wealth.  His  reports  upon  the  mineral  region  of  Lake  Superior,  first  aroused 
the  minds  of  this  generation  to  the  vast  riches  that  lie  buried  beneath  its  soil.  He 
was  drowned  in  October,  1845,  on  Lake  Superior.  While  coming  down  from  a 
portage  to  Copper  Harbor,  with  his  four  Indian  voyageurs,  the  boat  was  swamped 


MICHIGAN. 


405 


in  a  storm,  near  the  mouth  of  Eagle  River.  Two  of  the  men  were  saved  by  being 
thrown  by  the  waves  upon  the  rocks  ten  feet  above  the  usual  level  of  the  waters. 
He  perished,  and  so  greatly  was  his  loss  felt  to  be  a  public  calamity,  that  he  is  often 
alluded  to  as  u the  lamented  Houghton"  even  to  this  day. 

Gov.  Lewis  Cass  was  born  in  Exeter,  New  Hampshire,  Oct.  9, 1782.  "  Having  re 
ceived  a  limited  education  at  his  native  place,  at  the  early  age  of  seventeen,  he 
crossed  the  Alleghany  Mountains  on  foot,  to  seek  a  home  in  the  "great  west,"  then 
an  almost  unexplored  wilderness.  Settled  at  Marietta,  Ohio,  he  studied  law,  and 
was  successful.  Elected  at  twenty-five  to  the  legislature  of  Ohio,  he  originated  the 
bill  which  arrested  the  proceedings  of  Aa/on  Burr,  and,  as  stated  by  Mr.  Jefferson, 
was  the  first  blow  given  to  what  is  known  as  Burr's  conspiracy.  In  1807,  he  was 
appointed,  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  marshal  of  the  state,  and  held  the  office  till  the  latter 
part  of  1811,  when  he  volunteered  to  repel  Indian  aggressions  on  the  frontier.  He 
was  elected  colonel  of  the  3d  regiment  of  Ohio  volunteers,  and  entered  the  military 
service  of  the  United  States,  at  the  commencement  of  the  war  of  1812.  Having 
by  a  difficult  march  reached  Detroit,  he  urged  the  immediate  invasion  of  Canada, 
and  was  the  author  of  the  proclamation  of  that  event.  He  was  the  first  to  land  in 
arms  on  the  enemy's  shore,  and,  with  'a  small  detachment  of  troops,  fought  and 
won  the  first  battle,  that  of  the  Tarontoe.  At  the  subsequent  capitulktion  of  De 
troit,  he  was  absent,  on  important  service,  and  regretted  that  his  command  and 
himself  had  been  included  in  that  capitulation.  Liberated  on  parol,  he  repaired 
to  the  seat  of  government  to  report  the  causes  of  the  disaster,  and  the  failure  of 
the  campaign.  He  was  immediately  appointed  a.  colonel  in  the  regular  army,  and, 
soon  after,  promoted  to  the  rank  of  brigadier-general,  having,  in  the  mean  time, 
been  elected  major-general  of  the  Ohio  volunteers.  On  being  exchanged  and  re 
leased  from  parol,  he  again  repaired  to  the  frontier,  and  joined  the  army  for  the 
recovery  of  Michigan.  Being  at  that  time  without  a  command,  he  served  and  dis 
tinguished  himself,  as  a  volunteer  aid-de-camp  to  Gen.  Harrison,  at  the  battle  of  the 
Thames.  He  was  appointed  by  President  Madison,  in  October,  1813,  governor  of 
Michigan.  His  position  combined,  with  the  ordinary  duties  of  chief  magistrate 
of  a  civilized  community,  the  immediate  management  and  control,  as  superintend 
ent,  of  the  relations  with  the  numerous  and  powerful  Indian  tribes  in  that  region 
of  country.  He  conducted  with  success  the  affairs  of  the  territory  under  embar 
rassing  circumstances.  Under  his  sway  peace  was  preserved  between  the  whites 
and  the  treacherous  and  disaffected  Indians,  law  and  order  established,  and  the 
territory  rapidly  advanced  in  population,  resources,  and  prosperity.  He  held  this 
position  till  July,  1831,  when  he  was,  by  President  Jackson,  made  secretary  of 
war.  In  the  latter  part  of  1836,  President  Jackson  appointed  him  minister  to 
France,  where  he  remained  until  1842,  when  he  requested  his  recall,  and  returned 
to  this  country.  In  January,  1845,  he  was  elected,  by  the  legislature  of  Michigan, 
to  the  senate  of  the  United  States ;  which  place  he  resigned  on  his  nomination,  in 
May,  1848,  as  a  candidate  for  the  presidency,  by  the  political  party  to  which  he 
belongs.  After  the  election  of  his  opponent  (General  Taylor)  to  that  office,  the 
legislature  of  his  state,  in  1849,  re-elected  him  to  the  senate  for  the  unexpired  por 
tion  of  his  original  term  of  six  years.  When  Mr.  Buchanan  became  president,  he 
invited  Gen.  Cass  to  the  head  of  the  department  of  state,  in  which  position  he  has 
acquitted  himself  with  characteristic  ability.  He  has  devoted  some  attention  to 
literary  pursuits,  and  his  writings,  speeches,  and  state  papers  would  make  several 
volumes.  — Lanman's  Dictionary  of  U.  S.  Congress. 


CAPTURE   OF  JEFFERSON   DAVIS,    BY  MICHIGAN   CAVALRYMEN. 


THE   TIMES 


OF 


THE      REBELLION 


IN 


MICHIGAN. 


DURING  the  first  two  years  of  the  war,  Michigan  sent  over  40,000 
troops  to  the  field  ;  and  to  the  last,  answered  promptly  all  calls.  Like 
her  sister  states  of  the  great  Northwest  she  engaged  earnestly  in  th*e 
contest,  and  struck  many  heavy  blows  in  defense  of  the  national  life. 
In  the  armies  of  the  East  and  West  alike,  her  sons  have  made  an 
honorable  record. 

The  venerable  LEWIS  CASS,  the  most  eminent  citizen  known  to  her 
history,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  war,  thus  spoke  at  a  meeting  of  the 
people  of  Detroit. 

FELLOW  CITIZENS: — I  am  sorry  you  have  not  selected  a  chairman  to  preside 
over  your  assemblage  more  accustomed  to  such  a  task  and  more  competent  to -fill 
it  than  I  am.  But  while  feeling  my  incompetency  I  am  encouraged  by  the  hope 
that  I  shall  find  in  your  kind  regard  an  excuse  for  any  errors  I  may  commit — be 
lieving  it  is  my  duty,  while  I  can  do  but  little,  to  do  all  I  can  to  manifest  the  deep 
interest  I  feel  in  the  restoration  to  peace  and  good  order  and  submission  to  the 
law  of  every  portion  of  this  glorious  republic. 

I  can  not  take  this  seat  without  contrasting  the  situation  in  which  I  now  find 
myself  with  that  in  which  I  was  placed  on  this  very  spot  almost  fifty  years  ago. 

Then  in  the  days  of  our  weakness  we  were  subjected  to  dishonorable  capitula 
tion,  brought  about  by  the  imbecility  of  the  leader,  while  now  in  the  days  of  our 
strength,  neither  treason  nor  weakness  can  permanently  affect  the  holy  cause  to 
vhich  all  hands  and  hearts  are  pledged. 

Then  our  contest  was  legitimate  war,  waged  with  a  foreign  foe,  our  war  to-day 
is  a  domestic  one,  commenced  by  and  bringing  in  its  train  acts  which  no  right 
feeling  man  can  contemplate  without  most  painful  regret.  Bit  afewshort  months 
since  we  were  the  first  and  happiest  nation  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  In  the  midst 
of  this  prosperity,  without  a  single  foe  to  assail  us,  without  a  single  injury  at 
home,  caused  by  the  government  to  affect  us,  this  glorious  union  acquired  by  the 
blood  and  sacrifices  of  our  fathers,  has  been  disowned  and  rejected  by  a  portion 
of  the  states  composing  it.  Union,  which  has  given  us  more  blessings  than  any 
previous  government  ever  conferred  upon  man. 

Here,  thank  God,  its  ensign  floats  proudly  and  safely,  and  no  American  can  see 
its  folds  spread  out  to  the  breese,  without  feeling  a  thrill  of  pride  at  his  heart, 
and  without  recalling  the  splendid  deeds  it  has  witnessed  in  many  a  contest,  from 
the  day  of  Bunker  Hill  to  our  time.  And  that  flag  your  worthy  mayor  has  by 
the  direction  of  the  municipal  authority  hung  out  upon  the  dome  above  us.  The 

'  (407) 


408  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION. 

loyal  American  people  can  defend  it,  and  the  deafening  cheers  which  meet  us  to 
day  are  a  sure  pledge  that  they  will  defend  it.  A  stern  determination  to  do  so,  is 
evinced  by  the  preparations  and  patriotic  devotion  which  are  witnessed  around 
us,  and  in  the  echoes  which  are  brought  here  by  every  wind  that  blows. 

You  need  no  one  to  tell  you  what  are  the  dangers  of  your  country,  nor  what 
are  your  duties  to  meet  and  avert  them.  There  is  but  one  path  for  every  true 
man  to  travel,  and  that  is  board  and  plain.  It  will  conduct  us,  not  indeed  with 
out  trials  and  sufferings,  to  peace  and  the  restoration  of  the  union.  He  who  is 
not  for  his  country  is  against  her.  There,  is  no  neutral  position  to  be  occupied. 
It  is  the  duty  of  all  to  zealously  support  the  government  in  its  efforts  to  bring  this 
unhappy  civil  war  to  a  speedy  and  satisfactory  conclusion,  by  the  restoration,  in 
its  integrity,  of  that  great  charter  of  freedom  bequeathed  to  us  by  Washington 
and  his  compatriots.  His  ashes,  I  humbly  trust,  will  ever  continue  to  repose  in 
the  lowly  tomb  at  Mount  Vernon,  and  in  the  United  States  of  American  which  he 
loved  so  well,  and  did  so  much  to  found  and  build  up.  Manifest  your  regard  for 
his  memory  by  following,  each  with  the  compass  of  his  power,  his  noble  example, 
and  restore  his  work  as  he  left  it,  by  devoting  heart,  mind  and  deed  to  the  cause. 

Michigan  furnished  her  share  of  valuable  officers.  '  SHERIDAN,  whose 
name  has  become  a  household  word,  before  he  commanded  armies, 
was  assigned  to  the  command  of  the  2d  regiment  of  cavalry  raised  by 
this  state.  The  very  first  man  in  Michigan  to  volunteer  for  the  union 
was  Major  General  ALPHEUS  S.  WILLIAMS,  who  at  one  period  for  several 
years  was  editor  of  the  Detroit  Daily  Advertiser.  He  was  born  in  Con 
necticut,  graduated  at  Yale,  and  had  been  lieutenant  colonel  of  the 
1st  Michigan  volunteers  in  the  Michigan  war.  The  governor,  ac 
cepted  his  services,  and  he  organized  the  first  four  regiments  that 
Michigan  sent  into  the  field  to  suppress  the  rebellion 

In  October,  1861,  he  was  placed  in  command  of  a  brigade  under  Banks,  on  the 
upper  Potomac.  At  the  first  battle  of  Winchester  he  commanded  Banks  division, 
and  then  led  the  advance  in  the  pursuit  of  Stonewall  Jackson,  up  the  valley. 
Throughout  the  retreat  of  Banks,  in  May,  1862,  from  Winchester,  before  the  over 
whelming  forces  of  Jackson,  "Williams,  with  his  splendid  troops,  covered  the 
rear,  and  was  known  through  the  command  as  '  Banks'  right  hand.'  "  Advancing 
again  into  the  valley,  his  veteran  division,  the  succeeding  August,  sustained  the 
brunt  of  the  shock  of  his  old  opponent,  Jackson,  but  at  the  terrible  cost  of  a  loss 
of  a  third  of  his  old  brigade.  He  gained  additional  luster  as  a  tactician  while  in 
command  of  Pope's  rear,  in  his  retreat  down  the  Rappahannock.  Succeeding  to 
the  command  of  Banks'  corps,  he  led  them  with  success  at  Antietam.  On  the  dis 
astrous  Held  of  Chancellorsville,  when  the  llth  corps  was  routed  and  flying,  his 
corps,  the  12th,  filled  the  gap,  and  stayed  the  bloody  onset.  He  again,  on  the  his 
toric  field  of  Gettysburg,  commanded  his  corps  on  the  right  wing,  against  which 
the  enemy  dashed  in  vain  as  against  a  rock.  The  llth  and  12th  corps  were  after 
this  consolidated  into  the  20th  corps,  under  Hooker  in  Sherman's  Atlanta  cam 
paign,  in  which  William*  commanded  the  1st  division.  On  the  retirement  of 
Hooker  he  was  temporarily  in  comtnand  of  the  20th  corps,  and  led  one  of  its  di 
visions  through  those  wonderful  campaigns  of  Sherman,  that  will  live  as  long  as 
war  has  its  history  and  it*  romance.  "Old  Alph,"  as  his  soldiers  affectionately 
called  him,  has  an  iron  constitution,  immense  good  humor  and  a  kind  disposition. 

Major  General  0.  B.  WILCOX,  who  obtained  deserved  distinction,  was 
the  first  colonel  of  the  1st  Michigan  regiment  of  infantry.  His  ca 
reer  has  thus  been  sketched  : 

He  was  the  real  captor  of  Alexandria  when  Ellsworth  fell,  which  he  accom 
plished  with  his  regiment,  a  section  of  Sherman's  battery  and  Stoneman's  company 
of  cavalry.  He  then  took  prisoners  Ball's  company  of  Virginia  cavalry,  which 
was  the  first  capture  of  rebels  in  the  war.  Three  days  before  the  battle  of  Bull 
Run,  he  took  the  first  colors  in  the  east ;  this  was  from  an  Alabama  regiment,  at 


IN  MICHIGAN.  409 

Fairfax  station.  At  Bull  Run,  he  commanded  a  brigade  of  Heintzelman's  division, 
recaptured  Rickett's  guns  and  fell  wounded  into  the  hands  of  the  rebels,  300  yards 
in  advance  of  that  battery.  After  thirteen  months'  imprisonment,  he  succeeded 
Stevens  in  the  command  of  the  1st  division,  9th  corps,  which  he  handled  skillfully  at 
South  Mountain,  Antietam  and  Fredericksburg.  At  Knoxville,  he  commanded 
the  left  wing,  and  made  a  masterly  retreat  from  Bull's  Gap  to  Cumberland  Gap, 
in  presence  of  a  superior  force.  He  was  breveted  nrajor  general  for  distinguished 
services  in  Grant's  Virginia  campaigns. 

In  all  the  artillery  service  of  the  union  armies  there  was  not  a  sin 
gle  battery  so  distinguished  as  the  1st  Michigan,  generally  known  as 
LOOMIS'  BATTERY.  In  West  Virginia,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Alabama 
and  Georgia,  it  rendered  most  efficient  service,  and  when  lost  was  lost 
with  honor.  We  chronicle  a  few  of  its  many  deeds — first  at  Murfrees- 
boro'.  A  correspondent  from  there  thus  speaks  of  Loomis  battery  fight : 

Colonel  C.  O.  Loomis-^-he  was  a  captain  at  Perryville,  and  won  his  eagle  there^- 
is  the  envy  of  all  artillerists.  He  is  not  only  the  quickest  among  them,  but  the 
most  lucky  of  artillerists.  On  Friday  morning  the  calm  was  broken  by  an  attack 
being  made  upon  his  artillery,  in  Rousseau's  division,  in  which  Loomis  commands 
four  batteries.  They  drove"  in  our  pickets  with  a 'small  force  of  infantry,  and 
planted  two  batteries  on  either  side  of  the  Murfreesboro'  road,  and  opened  briskly 
upon  Rousseau's  camp.  Loomis  immediately  ordered  out  Captain  Stone  s  1st  Ken 
tucky  and  his  own  famous  I  st.  Michigan  battery  and  replied  to  them.  The  cannonad 
ing  for  a  few  moments  was  terrific.  From  my  position  to  the  right,  and  out  of  danger, 
I  could  very  plainly  see  the  rebel  guns,  and  beyond  them  as  distinctly  the  town  of 
Murfreesboro',  and"  a  redoubt  about  a  mile  this  side.  The  whole  rebel  line  flew  to 
arms  at  this  tremendous  cannonading,  as  did  our  own,  and  the  men  felt  that  another 
terrible  drama  was  about  to  be  enacted.  But  the  infantry  were  restrained,  and  the 
artillery  left  to  do  its  work.  Gen.  Rousseau,  who  knew  the  stuff  of  which  Loomis 
was  composed,  sent  him  word  not  to  let  them  go  away  unharmed.  Loomis  prom 
ised  to  obey,  and  kept  his  word.  After  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  work  five  pieces  of 
a  brass  gun  battery  were  dismounted,  and  the  battery  almost  destroyed.  The  re 
maining  gun  limbered  up  and  disappeared.  The  second  battery  was  receiv 
ing  admonitions  to  leave,  which  they  took  in  good  part  and  disappeared  to  the 
right,  leaving  the  road,  along  which  our  shots  i'ell  thick  and  fast,  in  utter  disgust. 
I  can  not  say  what  the  rebels  lost  here  in  killed  and  wounded,  but  can  speak 
positively  as  to  the  loss  of  five  guns.  Our  own  loss  in  killed  was  reported  to  me 
at  twenty-three,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  wounded.  When  the  War 
Department  comes  to  sum  up  its  heroes  and  the  honors  to  be  conferred,  let  it  notr 
if  heroes  overbalance  the  honors,  blot  out  the  name  of  that  admirable  soldier  and 
unflinching  patriot  who  bears  the  name  of  Loomis. 

Loomis  was  with  Mitchell  in  Alabama,  and  took  part  in  the  capture 
of  Bridgeport : 

As  the  two  pieces  of  Loomis'  came  up  the  hill,  they — he  says — instinctively 
turned  nose  on  the  feasting  crowd,  and  demandad  to  be  let  loose.  The  whole  line 
halted  as  they  saw  the  enemy  before  them,  and  each  man  drew  a  good  breath  and 
shook  himself — a  very  natural  movement,  I  assure  you.  Loomis  stepped  forward 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  and  within  ten  or  twenty  feet  of  him  were  the 
guards.  In  an  instant  their  shot  guns  were  leveled  at  his  breast,  but  when 
he  drew  his  revolver  the  two  rebels  fled  toward  the  camp  to  give  the  alarm.  Bufc 
Loomis  had  swifter  messengers  than  the  guards,  and  the  rebels  were  apprised 
of  their  danger  long  before  the  latter  messengers  reached  them.  Simultaneous 
with  the  cry  of  alarm  uttered  by  the  guards,  the  "  bull  dogs"  spoke,  and  the  can- 
nister  and  shell  fell  in  the  midst  of  them,  scattering  death  among  them  and  creat 
ing  a  consternation  that  was  comical  to  behold.  They  grabbled  their  muskets 
and  ran  in  every  direction,  some  even  coming  in  the  direction  of  the  line  of  battle 
which  we  had  formed.  A  few  attempted  to  stand,  and  did,  until  the  second  round, 
when  away  they  went  after  the  main  body,  which  had  fled  to  the  bridge  for  safety. 


410  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

The  order  was  now  given,  and  away  we  went  down  the  hill  for  a  charge,  and  with 
a  yell.  I  concluded  to  keep  myself  a  leetle  in  the  rear,  and  I  saw  the  grand  charge 
through  the  field,  and  into  the  very  breastworks  of  the  enemy.  But  the  enemy 
had  gone,  and  had  too  fine  a  start  ever  to  be  caught,  except  by  Loomis,  who,  find 
ing  they  had  gotten  beyond  the  range  of  cannister,  tried  them  with  she,ll.  This 
only  accelerated  their  speed,  and  they  hardly  stopped  to  fire  the  bridge  effectu 
ally.  They  left  the  portion  of  the  bridge  west  of  the  island  untouched,  but  fired 
that  part  beyond.  General  Mitchell  sent  men  to  the  island  and  saved  the  most  of 
it.  Loomis  continued  to  pour  in  his  shell,  and  the  enemy  to  put  in  their  best 
licks.  A  locomotive  and  train  disappeared  in  the  distance,  with  a  toot,  toot,  toot, 
excessively  unpleasant  to  hear  when  a  man  feels  he's  too  late  for  the  train,  and 
•no  doubt  so  felt  by  the  rebels,  the  aggravation  being  increased  by  the  knowledge 
that  they  had  done  their  best  running  to  catch  it. 

No  sooner  had  the  enemy  disappeared  on  the  further  shore  than  Loomis  ran  his 
pieces  into  the  valley,  and  across  it  into  the  rebel  breastworks.  He  placed  them 
in  position  and  waited  the  appearance  of  the  advance.  He  had  not  long  to  wait. 
Down  the  road  at  double  quick  came  infantry  and  cavalry — the  latter  in  splended 
style,  and  looking  very  imposing.  They  had  heard  the  firing,  and  had  come  down 
to  engage  in  it  But  when  the  men  in  the  intrenchments  opened  upon  them,  they 
were  more  astonished  than  the  reserve  had  been.  An  officer  or  two  ran  forward 
and  cried  out  not  to  fire  on  our  own  men,  but  they  quickly  saw  their  mistake  when 
Loomis  let  them  have  another  round  of  cannister,  and  the  infantry  a  round  of 
musketry.  Away  they  went  helter  skelter,  and  our  men  after  them.  The  battle 
had  lasted  twenty  minutes,  perhaps,  not  more. 

The  story  of  the  loss  of  these  guns  is  a  sad  but  glorious  one.  It  is 
thus  told  by  a  correspondent  writing  from  Chickamauga : 

I  rode  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  march  at  the  head  of  the  renowned  1st 
Michigan  battery,  engaged  in  low  conversation  with  the  manly  and  intelligent 
officer  who  commander  it,  Lieutenant  Van  Pelt.  He  seemed  more  than  usually 
confident  and  cheerful,  little  anticipating,  poor  fellow  !  the  fate  which  awaited 
him  on  the  morrow. 

"  Do  you  think,"  said  he  to  me,  "  that  we  shall  engage  the  enemy?" 

"If  we  can  avoid  it,"  T  replied ;   "  I  feel  pretty  sure  we  will  not.  " 

"  Why  then  this  movement?"  he  asked. 

"Doubtless,"  said  1,  "  to  prevent  the  enemy  from  turning  our  left  flank,  which 
they  have  all  day  been  threatening  to  do." 

He  looked  at  me  earnestly.  "  Then  you  believe  they  are  endeavoring  to  bring 
on  a  battle  ?" 

"  1  certainly  believe  they  are,"  I  answered. 

"  Do  you  know  anything  of  their  strength  ?"  he  next  inquired. 

"Not  certainly,"  I  replied;  "  but  in  addition  to  Bragg's  old  army,  Longstreet's 
corps  from  Virginia,  and  at  least  twenty  thousand  men  from  Johnston's  army  are 
in  front  of  us." 

"No  matter,"  said  he,  "  we  shall  beat  them.  Men  fighting  in  a  cause  like  ours 
must  conquer  in  the  end." 

Just  then  General  Baird  came  riding  by  with  some  members  of  his  excellent 
staff.  I  recognized  them  by  the  light  of  one  of  the  fires. 

"General,"  said  I,  "shall  we  go  to  Chattanooga  to-night?" 

"No,"  he  replied.  "  We  shall  go  a  mile  or  two  further,  take  position  upon  the 
left,  and  await  the  enemy." 

"Then,"  said  I,  turning  to  Van  Pelt,  "a  battle  to-morrow  is  inevitable." 

"  Very  well,"  he  remarked,  "  we  shall  all  have  an  opportunity  to  show  again 
our  devotion  to  our  country.1' 

At  last  the  weary  march  came  to  an  end,  the  artillery  was  wheeled  into  posi 
tion,  and  the  marching  columns  facing  to  the  right,  stood  in  order  of  battle,  look 
ing  toward  the  east. 

During  the  fight,  the  battery  was  attached  to  Scrihner's  brigade,  who,  when  sur 
rounded,  had  succeeded  in  infusing  into  them  his  own  magnanimous  and  gallant 


IN  MICHIGAN. 

spirit.  Gathering  together  their  broken  ranks,  under  the  infernal  fire  which 
every  instant  mowed  them  down,  and  following  their  heroic  leader,  they  charged 
the  dense  legions  surrounding  them,  and  like  a  whirlwind  in  a  forest,  tore  their 
way  through. 

But,  alas  !  the  gnns  of  the  immortal  1st  Michigan  battery  were  left  behind — 
those  black,  stern-looking  rifled  cannon,  each  one  of  whom  1  had  come  to  regard 
with  a  feeling  of  almost  reverential  awe,  because  upon  a  dozen  battlefields  I  had 
seen  them  flinging  destruction  into  the  ranks  of  traitors,  and  never  knew  them 
once  turned  against  a  legion  of  my  country's  enemies  which  they  did  not  scatter 
like  leaves  before  the  blast.  Even  in  the  opinion  of  the  rebels  themselves,  Loomis 
had  made  these  guns  invincible.  They  were  commanded  now  by  a  young  man 
who,  possessing  naturally  the  noblest  qualities,  had  thoroughly  learned  the  lessons 
of  his  teacher,  and  promised  to  prove  a  most  worthy  successor,  even  to  Loouais 
himself — Lieutenant  Van  Pelt.  Van  Pelt  loved  his  pieces  with  the  same  unself 
ish  devotion  which  he  manifested  for  his  wife.  In  the  desperate  conflict  which 
broke  around  Scribner's  brigade  he  managed  the  battery  with  much  dexterity 
and  coolness,  and  for  some  moments  rocked  the  very  trees  over  the  heads  of  the 
rebels  by  the  fiery  blasts  from  his  guns.  But  his  horses  were  shot  down.  Many 
of  his  artillerist  were  killed  or  wounded.  The  infantry  supporting  him  had  been 
compelled  to  turn  and  cut  their  way  through  the  enemy,  and  a  horde  of  traitors 
rushed  up  to  the  muzzles  of  the  now  harmless  pieces.  Van  Pelt,  almost  alone, 
stationed  himself  in  front,  of  them  and  drew  his  sword.  "Scoundrels,"  said  he, 
"  dare  not  to  touch  these  guns!"  The  miserable  barbarians,  unable  to  appreciate 
true  heroism,  brutally  murdered  him  were  he  stood.  The  history  of  the  war,  fur 
nishes  not  an  incident  more  touching  or  more  sublime  than  the  death  of  Lieu 
tenant  Van  Pelt.  All  the  guns  of  the  battery,  save  one,  fell  into  the  enemy's 
hands. 

One  of  the  members  of  this  battery,  Henry  D.  Norrington,  early  in 
the  war,  volunteered  on  a  mission  of  great  peril.  The  following  are 
its  incidents : 

After  the  battle  of  Carnifex  Ferry,  in  West  Virginia,  had  been  fought,  the  rebels 
cut  off  all  communication  between  the  Federal  camp  at  Elkwater,  and  that  on 
the  summit  of  Cheat  Mountain,  by  seizing  and  holding  the  only  road  that  connected 
them. 

It  was  at  once  apparent  that  the  communication  must  be  re-established, 
several  trusty  scouts  were  sent  out,  one  after  another,  to  Colonel  Kimball,  on  the 
mountain  top,  from  General  Reynolds'  camp  at  Elkwater.  But  such  was  the  un 
tiring  vigilance  of  the  enemy,  that  each  one  in  turn  was  shot  ere  reaching  his 
destination.  The  danger  to  the  Elkwater  camp  was  imminent,  and  a  volunteer 
was  asked  for  to  open  up  a  correspondence  with  Colonel  Kimball.  A  young  man 
of  great  courage,  immediately  started  with  high  hopes  of  success  j  but  he,  too, 
fell,  and  was  never  heard  of  again. 

The  commanding  general,  then  stating  fairly  and  fully  the  perils  attending  the 
task,  asked  for  another  volunteer.  The  command,  which  had  been  drawn  op  for 
the  purpose  of  hearing  the  proposal,  remained  immovable,  and  not  a  soldier  stirred 
from  his  place  for  several  minutes.  During  the  silence  that  reigned,  faces  were 
turned  continually  up  and  down  the  line,  to  see  if  there  was  any  one  bold  enough 
to  undertake  the  task.  These  few  minutes  seemed  an  age  to  every  one,  and  the 
general,  with  disappointment  marked  on  his  features, .  was  turning  away,  when 
private  Henry  D.  Norrington,  of  Loom  is' 8  Michigan  battery,  stepped  from  his 
rank,  and  offered  to  go  upon  the  perilous  errand. 

He  was  immediately  ordered  to  report  himself  at  headquarters,  where,  receiv 
ing  his  orders,  and  instructions,  and  dispatches  to  Colonel 'Kimball,  he  started  for 
his  destination.  With  the  most  admirable  tact  and  caution,  our  hero  succeeded 
in  eluding  the  first  picket-line  of  the  rebels,  after  passing  which,  he  traveled 
nearly  the  whole  distance  beyond,  crawling  on  his  hands  and  knees.  In  case  of 
surprise  and  failure,  he  had  his  dispatches  rolled  up  in  his  mouth,  and  ready  to 
swallow.  In  this  manner  he  reached  Colonel  Kimball's  camp,  on  the  top  of 


412  TIMES  OF  THE   REBELLION 

Cheat  Mountain,  and  safely  delivered  his  dispatches  in  the  hands  of  that  com 
mander. 

And  now  he  had  completed  but  half  of  the  fearful  task  he  hud  undertaken,  for, 
to  complete  it  all,  it  was  necessary  that  he  should  carry  back  a  dispatch  from 
Colonel  Kimball  to  General  Reynolds.  The  desperate  character  of  the  enterprise 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  Kimball's  whole  command  shook  hands  with 
our  hero  before  he  started  upon  his  return,  never  expecting  to  see  him  again. 

He  set  out,  however,  at  night,  traveling  in  the  same  cautious  manner  as  lie  did 
before,  and  holding  himself  ready  for  any  emergency.  The  north  star  was  his 
guide,  and  it  did  not  deceive  him,  for  in  due  time  he  arrived  within  a  few  miles 
of  Elkwater.  Thus  far  on  his  journey,  he  congratulated  himself  that  he  had  suc 
ceeded,  and  that  his  perils  were  ^er;  but  even  as  those  joyous  thoughts  passed 
through  his  mind,  his  quick  eye  discerned  a  rebel  cavalry  horse,  tied  to  a  stake, 
some  distance  ahead.  So  sudden  and  unexpected  was  this,  that  Norrington's  hope 
was  for  a  moment  dashed  to  earth,  but  only  for  a  moment. 

The  next  instant,  our  hero  was  crawling  lik«?  a  panther  toward  the  animal,  in 
tending  to  capture  him,  and  thus  insure  his  own  escape,  provided  the  owner  or 
his  friends  were  not  too  close  at  hand.  Coming  within  reach  «f  the  steed,  which 
was  already  saddled,  the  scout  cautiously  peered  around  him  to  see  if  the  danger 
was  too  great.  Unable  to  catch  the  slightest  glimpse  of  any  foe,  he  sprang  to  the 
bridle,  unhitched  the  horse,  vaulted  into  the  saddle,  and  the  next  moment  was 
galloping  away  toward  Elkwater  at  the  top  of  his  speed. 

Ere  he  was  out  of  range,  several  men,  who  doubtless  had  been  close  at  hand, 
bounded  into  the  road,  and,  raising  their  pieces,  sent  a  volley  of  rifle  balls  after 
him,  which,  although  they  whistled  disagreeably  near,  did  him  no  injury.  He 
did  not  stop  to  return  the  compliment,  but  continued  to  urge  forward  the  horse,  on 
whose  fleetness  all  now  depended.  The  steed  was  a  splendid  charger,  full-blooded, 
and  as  spirited  as  a  lion  ;  and  right  gallantly  did  he  carry  his  new  master  into 
the  union  lines,  within  whose  protection  the  scout  was  safe. 

He  had  thus  succeeded  in  his  perilous  mission,  and,  delivering  Colonel  Kim- 
ball's  message  and  letter  to  General  Reynolds,  he  received  the  most  lavish  praise 
and  thanks  from  the  latter  officer.  We  are  happy  to  add,  also,  that  his  reward 
did  not  end  here,  for,  besides  being  promoted  to  the  general's  staff,  as  mounted 
orderly,  Norrington  received  from  General  Reynolds  an  elegant  revolver,  from 
Captain  Loornis  a  handsome  sword,  from  the  assistant  adjutant-general  a  compli 
mentary  notice  in  his  official  report  to  the  War  Department,  and,  at  dress  parade, 
nine  rousing  cheers  from  his  comrades.  Five  men  had  been  killed  in  attempting 
the  task  which  he  successfully  accomplished  to  the  discomfiture  of  the  rebels. 

The  women  of  Michigan  have  furnished  some  remarkable  examples 
of  female  heroism. 

Miss  Anna  Etheridge  was  born  in  Detroit,  Michigan,  and  is  now  twenty  three 
years  of  age.  Her  father  was  once  a  man  of  wealth,  and  her  early  youth  was  passed 
in  the  lap  of  luxury,  with  no  wish  ungratified,  and  no  want  uncared  for.  But  mis 
fortune  came  and  swept  away  his  property,  and,  broken  in  fortune  and  depressed 
in  spirit,  he  removed  to  Minnesota,  where  he  died,  leaving  our  heroine,  at  the 
age  of  twelve  years,  in  comparative  poverty  and  want.  On  the  breaking  out  of 
the  rebellion,  she  was  visiting  her  friends  in  this  city. 

Colonel  Richardson  was  then  engaged  in  raising  the  2d  Michigan  volunteers, 
and  she  and  nineteen  other  females  volunteered  to  accompany  the  regiment  as 
nurses.  Every  other  has  returned  home  or  been  discharged,  but  she  has  accom 
panied  the  regiment  through  all  its  fortunes,  and  declares  her  determination  to 
remain  with  it  during  its  entire  term  of  service.  She  has  for  her  use  a  horse, 
furnished  with  a  side-saddle,  saddle-bags,  etc.  At  the  commencement  of  a  battle 
she  tills  her  saddle-bags  with  lint  and  bandages,  mounts  her  horse,  and  gallops  to 
the  front,  passes  under  fire,  and  regardless  of  shot  and  shell,  engages  in  the  work 
of  staunching  and  binding  up  the  wounds  of  our  soldiers.  In  this  manner  she 
has  passed  through  every  battle  in  which  the  regiment  has  been  engaged,  com 
mencing  with  the  battle  of  Blackburn's  Ford,  preceding  the  first  battle  of  Bull 


IN  MICHIGAN.  413 

Run,  including  the  battles  of  the  Peninsula,  and  terminating  with  the  battle  of 
Fredericksburg. 

General  Berry,  the  present  commander  of  the  brigade  to  which  her  regiment 
is  attached,  and  who  highly  distinguished  himself  for  bravery  and  gallantry  in  ajl 
these  fights,  declares  that  she  has  been  under  as  hot  a  fire  of  the  enemy  as  him 
self.  On  one  occasion  a  soldier  was  torn  to  pieces  by  a  shell  while  she  was  in 
the  act  of  binding  up  his  wounds  previously  received,  and  on  many  occasions  her 
dress  has  been  pierced  by  bullets  and  fragments  of  shell,  yet  she  has  never  flinched 
and  never  been  wounded.  Her  regiment  belongs  to  the  brigade  commanded  by 
the  lamented  General  Kearney  till  his  death,  and  in  consideration  of  her  daunt 
less  courage  and  invaluable  services  in  saving  the  lives  of  his  men,  General  Kear 
ney  commissioned  her  as  a  regimental  sergeant.  When  not  actively  engaged 
on  the  battle-field  or  in  the  hospital,  she  superintends  the  cooking  at  the  head 
quarters  of  the  brigade.  When  the  brigade  moves,  she  mounts  her  horse  and 
marches  with  the  ambulances  and  surgeons,  administering  to  the  wants  of  the  sick 
and  wounded,  and  -at  the  bivouac  she  wraps  herself  in  her  blanket,  and  sleeps 
upon  the  ground  with  all  the  hardihood  of  a  true  soldier. 

Anna  is  about  five  feet  three  inches  in  hight,  fair  complexion  (now  somewhat 
browned  by  exposure),  brown  hair,  vigorous  constitution,  and  decidedly  good 
looking.  Her  dress  on  entering  into  battle,  is  a  riding  garment,  so  arranged  as 
to  be  looped  up  when  she  dismounts."  Her  demeanor  is  perfectly  modest,  quiet 
and  retiring,  and  her  habits  and  conduct  are  correct  and  exemplary  ;  yet  on  the 
battle-field  she  seems  to  be  as  one  possessed  and  animated  with  a  desire  to  be 
effective  in  saving  the  lives  of  the  wounded  soldiers.  No  harsh  word  was  ever 
known  to  be  uttered  by  her,  and  she  is  held  in  the  highest  veneration  and  es 
teem  by  the  soldiers,  as  an  angel  of  mercy.  She  is,  indeed,  the  idol  of  the  brig 
ade,  every  man  of  which  would  submit  to  almost  any  sacrifice  in  her  behalf.  She 
takes  the  deepest  interest  in  the  result  of  this  contest,  eagerly  reading  all  the 
papers  to  which  she  can  obtain  access,  and  keeping  thoroughly  posted  as  to  the 
progress  of  the  war.  She  says  she  feels  as  if  she  stood  alone  in  the  world,  as  it 
were,  and  desires  to  do  good.  She  knows  that  she  is  the  instrument  of  saving 
many  lives,  and  alleviating  much  suffering  in  her  present  position,  and  feels  it 
her  duty  to  continue  in  so  doing. 

These  facts  can  be  substantiated  by  testimony  of  the  highest  character,  and  they 
deserve  to  go  forth  to  the  world  to  show  that  if  England  can  boast  of  the  achieve 
ments  of  a  Florence  Nightingale,  we  of  America  can  present  a  still  higher  exam 
ple  of  female  heroism  and  exalted  acts  of  humanity  in  the  person  of  Anna 
E  the  ridge. 

Another  of  these  Spartan-like  women  was  Mrs.  L,  L.  Deming,  who 
proved  to  be  a  kind  of  good  Samaritan — Amazonian  attache  to  the 
army.  The  Cleveland  Herald  said  of  this  truly  excellent  woman  : 

She  is  the  adopted  daughter  of  the  10th  Michigan  regiment,  in  which  her  hus 
band  is  captain.  Mrs.  Deming  has  followed  the  fortunes  of  her  husband  since 
the  regiment  entered  the  service.  She  has  nursed  the  sick,  cheered  the  wounded, 
sang  for  the  low-spirited,  and  made  herself  worth  her  weight  in  gold  in  all  those 
offices  which  an  energetic,  fearless  woman  knows  how  to  perform.  She  can  ride 
her  sixty  miles  on  horseback  without  dismounting  but  once,  she  can  march  with 
the  best  of  them.  She  is  as  familiar  with  the  music  of  shell  and  ball  as  wi.th  her 
own  notes,  and  she  is  enthusiastically  devoted  to  the  war.  She  was  with  the  army 
before  Corinth,  was  under  fire  repeatedly,  but  never  turned  her  back  on  the  foe 
but  once,  when  she  was  ordered  to  skedaddle,  as  one  of  our  own  batteries  was 
placed  right  in  the  rear  of  her  own  tent,  which  was  sure  to  go  by  the  board  at 
the  first  fire.  Mrs.  Deming  wore  her  uniform  while  in  the  camp,  having  a  haver 
sack,  canteen,  and 'belt  with  revolvers. 

One  of  the  Michigan  regiments,  was  composed  of  engineers  and  me 
chanics.  Among  the  Western  troops  were  several  of  these  pioneer 
regiments.  This  element  contributed  greatly  to  the  success  of  our 


414  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

campaigns.  Generally  in  the  advance,  laboring  in  the  very  front  of 
danger,  the  calm  heroism  of  these  working  men  almost  surpasses  belief. 
A  single  incident  illustrates  this,  which  occurred  in  Sherman's  Atlanta 
campaign.  Two  pioneers  were  chopping  on  opposite  sides  of  the  same 
tree.  In  the  midst  of  a  storm  of  whistling  bullets,  the  measured  ca 
dence  of  their  manly  blows  was  heard  above  conflicting  sounds. 
Suddenly  one  of  the  two  dropped  dead  at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  shot  by 
a  ball  through  the  head.  His  companion  did  not  falter  at  his  task 
one  instant ;  did  not  so  much  as  lose  a  single  stroke  ;  when  a  third 
man  instantly  stepped  out  from  the  ranks,  took  the  ax  from  the  hands 
of  his  dead  comrade  and  filled  his  place.  In  this  connection  it  gives 
us  pleasure  to  present  a  picture  of  Western  soldiers :  and  to  none  is  it 
more  applicable  than  to  "  the  boys  "  of  Michigan. 

If  there  are  men  in  the  world  gifted  with  the  most  thorough*  self-reliance,  west 
ern  soldiers  are  the  men.  To  fight  in  the  grand  anger  of  battle  seems  to  me  to  re 
quire  less  manly  fortitude,  after  all,  than  to  bear,  without  murmuring,  the  swarm 
of  little  troubles  that  vex  camp  and  inarch.  No  matter  where  or  when  you  halt 
them  they  are  at  once  at  home.  They  know  precisely  what  to  do  first  and  they  do 
it.  I  have  seen  them  march  into  a  strange  region  at  dark,  and  almost  as  soon  as 
fires  would  show  well,  they  were  twinkling  all  over  the  field,  the  iSibley  cones  rising 
like  the  work  of  enchantment  everywhere,  and  the  little  dog  tents  lying  snug  to 
the  ground,  as  if,  like  the  mushrooms,  they  had  grown  there,  and  the  aroma  of 
coffee  and  tortured  bacon,  suggesting  comforts,  and  the  whole  economy  of  life  in 
canvas  cities  moving  as  steadily  as  if  it  had  never  intermitted.  The  movements 
of  regiments,  you  know,  are  blind  as  fate.  Nobody  can  tell  to-night  where  he  will 
be  to-morrow;  and  yet,  with  the  first  glimmer  of  morning,  the  camp  is  astir,  and 
preparations  begin  for  staying  there  forever :  cozy  little  cabins  of  red  cedar,  neatly 
fitted  are  going  up;  here  a  boy  is  making  a  fireplace,  and  quite  artistically  plas 
tering  it  with  the  inevitable  red  earth  ;  he  has  found  a  crane  somewhere  and 
swung  up  thereon  a  two  legged  dinner-pot;  there  a  fellow  is  finishing  out  a  chim 
ney  with  brick  from  an  old  kiln  of  secession  proclivities ;  yonder  a  bower-house, 
closely  woven,  of  evergreen  is  almost  ready  for  the  occupants ;  tables,  stools,  and 
bedsteads  are  tumbled  together  by  the  roughest  of  carpenters;  the  avenues,  be 
tween  the  tents  are  cleared  and  smoothed — "  policed,"  in  camp  phrase — and  little 
seats  with  cedar  awnings  in  front  of  the  tents,  give  a  cottage  look,  while  the  in 
terior,  in  a  rude  way,  has  a  genuine  home-like  appearance.  The  bit  of  a  looking- 
glass  hangs  against  the  cotton  wall — a  handkerchief  of  a  carpet  just  before  the 
"  bunk"  marks  the  stepping  off  place  to  the  land  of  dreams — a  violin-case  is  strung 
up  on  a  convenient  hook,  flanked  by  a  gorgeous  picture  of  some  hero  of  somewhere, 
mounted  upon  a  horse,  rampant  and  saltant,  uand  what  a  length  of  tail  behind !  " 

The  business  of  living  has  fairly  begun  again.  There  is  hardly  an  idle  mo 
ment,  and  save  here  and  there  a  man  brushing  up  his  musket,  getting  that  "damned 
spot"  off  his  bayonet,  burnishing  his  revolver,  you  would  not  suspect  that  these 
men  had  but  one  terrible  errand.  They  are  tailors,  they  are  tinkers,  they  are 
writers;  fencing,  boxing,  cooking,  eating,  drilling — those  who  say  that  camp  life 
is  a  lazy  life  know  little  about  it.  And  then  there  reconnoissances  "  on  private  ac 
count;"  every  wood,  ravine,  hill,  field,  is  explored;  the  productions,  animal  and 
vegetable,  are  inventoried,  and  one  day  renders  them  as  thoroughly  conversant 
with  the  region  round  about,  as  if  they  had  been  dwelling  there  a  lifetime.  They 
have  tasted  w;ater  from  every  spring  and  well,  estimated  the  corn  to  an  acre,  tried 
the  watermelons,  bagged  the  peaches,  knocked  down  the  persimmons,  milked  the 
cows,  roasted  the  pigs,  picked  the  chickens;  they  know  who  lives  here  and  there 
and  yonder,  the  whereabouts  of  the  native  boys,  the  names  of  the  native  girls.  If 
there  is  a  curious  cave,  a  queer  tree,  a  strange  rock  anywhere  about,  they  know 
it.  You  can  see  them  with  chisel,  hammer  and  haversack,  tugging  up  the  moun 
tain  or  scrambling  down  the  ravine  in  a  geological  passion  that  would  have  won 
the  right  hand  of  fellowship  from  Hugh  Miller,  and  home  they  come  loaded  with 


IN  MICHIGAN.  ^-j^ 

specimens  that  would  enrich  a  cabinet.  I  have  in  my  possession  the  most  exqui 
site  fossil  buds  just  ready  to  open;  beautiful  shells,  rare  minerals,  collected  by 
these  rough  and  dashing  naturalists.  If  you  think  the  rank  and  tile  have  no  taste 
and  no  love  for  the  beautiful,  it  is  time  you  remembered  of  what  material  they 
are  made.  Nothing  will  catch  a  soldierVeye  quicker  than  a  patch  of  velvet  moss, 
or  a  fresh  little  flower,  and  many  a  letter  leaves  the  camps  enriched  with  faded 
souvenirs  of  these  expeditions.  I  said  that  nothing  will  catch  an  old  campaigner's 
eye  quicker  than  a  flower,  but  I  was  wrong;  a  dirty,  ragged  baby  will.  1  have 
seen  a  thirteen  dollar  man  expend  a  dollar  for  trinkets  to  hang  about  the  dingy 
neck  of  an  urchin,  that  at  home,  and  three  years  ago,  he  would  hardly  have 
touched  with  a  tongs.  Do  you  say  it  is  for  the  mother's  sake  ?  You  have  only 
to  see  the  bedraggled,  coarse,  lank,  tobacco-chewing  dam — is  it  wicked  for  me  to  use 
that  word  in  such  a  fashion? — to  abandon  that  idea,  like  a  foundling,  to  the  ten 
der  mercies  of  the  first  door-step. 

But  to  come  back  to  camp ;  talk  of  perfumed  cloud  of  incense,  there  is  to  me 
nothing  sweeter  than  a  clear,  bright  red  cedar  tire;  the  mountain  air  is  fairly 
laden  with  the  fragrance.  Everything  is  red  cedar,  and  a  prairie  man,  as  he  sees 
the  great  camp  fires,  fed  with  hewn  timbers  of  the  precious  wood,  would  about  as 
soon  think  of  cutting  up  his  grand  piano — seven  octave  or  so — into  fuel  for  the 
kitchen  stove.  Writing  of  fuel,  you  should  see  the  fences  melt  away  anywhere 
within  a  mile  of  camp ;  up  goes  the  red  cedar  again,  like  a  prophet,  in  a  chariot 
of  fire,  and  not  enough  left  for  a  bow  and  arrow. 

The  work  of  improvement  goes  briskly  on ;  a  week  has  passed,  and  the  boys 
seem  settled  in  life.  Just  before  tattoo,  some  night,  down  comes  an  order  to  march 
at  five  in  the  morning.  A  fine,  drizzling  rain  has  set  in ;  a  thick  blanket  of  fog 
has  been  snugly  tucked  about  the  camp;  the  fires  look  large  and  red  and  cheer 
ful;  the  boys  are  just  ready  "to  turn  in,"  when  down  comes  the  order.  Nothing 
is  as  you  would  think;  no  complaints,  no  murmurings,  no  watching  the  night  out. 
They  are  not  to  be  cheated  out  of  their  sleep — not  they;  it  takes  your  green  re 
cruits  to  do  that;  every  bundle  of  a  blanket  has  a  sleeping  soldier  in  it;  every 
knapsack  has  a  drowsy  head  on  it.  At  three  the  roll  of  a  drum  straggles  through 
the  gloom;  the  camp  is  awake;  tents  are  struck,  knapsacks  packed,  baggage  wagons 
loaded,  mules  untangled.  Soldiers  have  notions,  and  among  them  is  the  destruc 
tion  of  their  "  improvement;'1  the  bower  house  crackles  like  &,  volley  of  musketry, 
the  cedar  cottages  are  in  flames,  the  stools  and  tables  are  glowing  coals,  and  if 
they  don't  fiddle,  as  Nero  did,  while  their  Rome  is  burning — and  as  much  of  a 
Rome,  too,  as  that  was  in  the  time  of  the  lupine  brothers — at  least  they  eat.  A 
soldier  can  starve  patiently,  but  when  he  has  a  chance  he  eats  potently.  Hud 
dled  around  their  little  fires,  in  the  thick  and  turbid  morning,  the  clink  of  the 
bayonets  betokens  the  coffee  to  come;  the  smutty  kettles  bubble  with  the  Arabic 
decoction  as  black  as  the  tents  of  the  Sheik  who  threw  dust  on  the  beard  of  his 
father ;  unhappy  pork  sizzles  from  ramrods,  and  the  boys  take  breakfast. 

Some  wise  man  proposed  in  Congress,  you  remember,  the  substitution  of  tea  for 
coffee  in  the  army,  and  told  the  people  that  the  soldiers  would  welcome  the  change ! 
A  tolerably  fair  specimen  of  theoretical,  stay-at-home  wisdom,  and  not  worth  a 
Sabbath  day's  journey  of  the  Queen  of  Sheba  to  look  at.  Why,  coffee  is  their 
true  aqua  vitcR ;  their  solace  and  mainstay.  When  a  boy  can  not  drink  his  coffee, 
you  may  be  sure  he  has  done  drinking  altogether.  On  a  march,  no  sooner  is  a 
halt  ordered  than  little  fires  begin  to  twinkle  along  the  line ;  they  make  coffee  in. 
five  minutes,  drink  it  in  three,  take  a  drill  at  a  hard  cracker,  and  are  refreshed. 
Our  comrades  from  "der  Rhine"  will  squat  phlegmatically  anywhere,  even  in 
line  of  battle.  No  sooner  has  the  storm  swept  to  some  other  part  of  the  field,  than 
the  kettles  begin  to  boil,  and  amid  stray  bullets  and  shattering  shell,  they  take 
great  swallows  of  heart  and  coffee  together.  It  is  Rhine  wine,  the  soul  of  Gam- 
brinus,  "  Switzer  "  and  "Limberg"  in  one. 

But  it  is  five  o'clock  and  a  dingy  morning;  the  regiments  march  away  in  good 
cheer;  the  army  wagons  go  streaming  and  swearing  after  them;  the  beat  of  the 
drum  grows  fainter;  the  canvas  city  has  vanished  like  a  vision.  On  such  a  morn 
ing  and  amid  such  a  scene  [  have  loitered  till  it  seemed  as  if  a  busy  city  had 


416 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


been  passing  out  of  sight,  leaving  nothing  behind  for  all  that  life  and  light  but 
empty  desolation.  Will  you  wonder  much  if  1  tell  you  that  I  have  watched  such 
a  vanishing  with  a  pang  of  regret ;  that  the  trampled  field  looked  dim  to  me, 
worn  smooth  and  beautiful  by  the  touch  of  those  brave  feet,  whose  owners  have 
trod  upon  thorns  with  song — feet,  alas,  how  many — that  shall  never  again,  in  all 
this  coming  and  going  world,  make  music  up  the  old  thresholds  ?  And  how  many 
such  sites  of  perished  cities  this  war  has  made;  how  many  bonds  of  good  fellow 
ship  have  been  rent  to  be  united  no- more. 

At  home  anywhere,  I  wrote,  and  1  might  well  have  added,  and  used  to  anything 
the  boys  are.  You  would  wonder,  I  think,  to  see  me  lie  down  in  the  dusty  road, 
under  the  full  noon  sun  of  Tennessee  and  Alabama,  and  fall  asleep  in  a  minute. 
I  have  passed  hundreds  of  such  sleepers.  A  dry  spot  is  as  good  as  a  mattress; 
the  flap  of  a  blanket  quite  a  downy  pillow.  You  would  wonder,  I  think,  to  see  a 
whole  arm}'  corps,  as  I  have,  without  a  shred  of  a  tent  to  bless  themselves  with, 
lying  anywhere  and  everywhere  in  an  all  night  rain,  and  not  a  growl  nor  a  grum 
ble.  I  was  curious  to  see  whether  the  pluck  and  good  nature  were  not  washed 
out  of  them,  and  so  I  made  my  way  out  of  the  snug,  dry  quarters,  I  am  ashamed 
to  say  I  occupied,  at  five  in  the  morning,  to  see  what  water  had  done  for  them. 
Nothing!  Each  soaked  blanket  hatched  out  as  jolly  a  fellow  as  you  would  wish 
to  see — muddy,  dripping,  half-foundered,  forth  they  came,  wringing  themselves 
out  as  the  went,  with  the  look  of  a  troop  of  "  wet-down  '  roosters  in  a  fall  rain 
storm,  plumage  at  half  mast,  but  hearts  trumps  every  time.  If  they  swore — • 
arid  some  did — it  was  with  a  half  laugh  ;  the  sleepy  tires  were  stirred  up;  then 
came  the — coffee,  and  they  were  as  good  as  new.  "  Blood  is  thicker  than  water." 
I  could  never  tire  of  telling  you  how  like  iron — wrought  iron — men  can  get  to  be, 
and  half  the  sympathy  1  had  corked  and  labeled  for  the  hardships  of  soldiers 
evaporated  when  1  came  to  see  howr  like  rugged  oaks  they  toughened  into  knots 
under  them.  True,  there  is  another  light  to  the  picture.  The  regiment  twelve 
hundred  strong  now  stacks  five  hundred  muskets.  Bullets  did  not  do  it,  as  you 
would  think,  but  just  the  terrible  sifting  process ;  the  regiment  is  screened  like  grain ; 
the  sturdiest  manhood  alone  remains.  Writing  of  downy  pillows,  1  noticed,  on  that 
rainy  morning,  that  one  of  the  boys  did  not  hug  mother  earth  quite  as  closely  as 
the  rest;  his  head  was  well  up,  and  when  he  shook  himself,  and  whisked  off  the 
blanket  he  had  lain  upon,  I  saw  his  pillow,  and  no  duck  ever  dressed  such  plum 
age;  it  was  a  little  triangular  piece  of  iron,  the  fragment  of  some  bit  of  machin 
ery,  through  which  were  thrust  three  iron  rods  some  six  inches  in  length.  Jt  was 
first  this  queer  tripod  of  a  pillow,  then  a  corner  of  a  blanket,  then  a  pouring  rain, 
and  then  a  good,  hearty  all  night  sleep  Never  mind  that  feather  the  wrong 
way  in  your  pillow;  thank  God  for  the  one  feather,  pleasant  dreams  and  good 
night! 

We  do  not  know  that  any  other  state  has  furnished  an  instance  like 
the  following : 

Sergeant  John  Clem,  22d  Michigan  volunteer  infantry,  is  the  youngest  soldier 
in  our  army.  He  is  twelve  years  old,  and  small  even  for  his  age.  He  first  at 
tracted  the  notice  of  General  Rosecrans  at  a  review  at  Nashville,  when  he  was 
acting  as  marker  for  his  regiment.  The  general,  won  by  his  youth  and  intelli 
gence,  invited  him  to  call  upon  him,  whenever  they  were  in  the/same  place. 
Rosecrans  saw  no  more  of  Clem  until  his  return  to  Cincinnati,  when  one  day, 
coming  to  his  rooms  at  the  Burnet  House,  he  found  the  boy  awaiting  him.  He 
had  seen  service  in  the  mean  while.  He  had  gone  through  the  battle  of  Chicka- 
mauga,  where  he  had  three  bullets  through  his  hat.  Here  he  killed  a  rebel  colo 
nel.  The  officer,  mounted  on  horseback,  encountered  the  young  hero,  and  called  out, 
"  Stop  you  little  Yankee  devil!"  By  way  of  answer,  the  boy  halted  and  dropped 
his  piece  to  "order;"  thus  throwing  the  colonel  off  his  guard.  In  another  mo 
ment  the  piece  was  cocked,  br  ught  to  an  aim,  and  fired,  when  the  officer  fell 
dead  from  his  horse.  For  this  achievement  Clern  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
sergeant,  and  Rosecrans  bestowed  upon  him  the  Roll  of  Honor. 

We  have  a  similar  anecdote  of  a  Michigan  drummer  boy,  connected 


IN  MICHIGAN.  417 

with  the  army  of  the  Potomac  under  Burnside.  Shortly  after  the 
battle  of  Fredericksburg  he  was  one  of  the  occupants  of  the  platform 
at  a  great  union  meeting  in  New  York  : 

He  belonged  to  the  8th  Michigan,  and  when  one  hundred  men  of  that  regiment 
volunteered  to  cross  at  Frederickburg,  he  wished  to  go,  but  was  told  he  was  too 
small  He,  however,  hung  on  to  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and  passed  over  in  the 
water.  When  over  he  killed  a  rebel,  took  his  gun,  and  came  buck  with  the  volun 
teers.  General  Burnside  complimented  him  for  his  bravery.  Some  friends  had 
given  him  a  new  drum,  and  he  beat  the  tattoo  for  the  audience,  to  their  great 
delight.  His  name  is  Robert  Hendershot. 

•Scarcely  is  there  a  limit  to  the  anecdotes  that  could  be  given  of  the 
bravery  of  Michigan  troops  in  battle.  One  we  adduce  here,  the  charge 
of  the  4th  Michigan,  near  Shepherdstown,  Ya. : 

The  division  of  General  Morell  was  moved  down  to  the  brink  of  the  river,  and 
as  the  4th  Michigan,  in  the  advance,  was  about  to  cross,  a  battery  of  six  guns 
suddenly  opened  upon  them  from  the  top  of  the  bluff  commanding  the  ford.  Of 
course  a  slight  movement  resembling  a  panic  at  first  manifested  itself,  but  the 
moment  the  order  was  given  to  cross  the  stream,  ascend  the  hill  and  take  the  bat 
tery,  a  shout  went  up  which  echoed  and  re-echoed  through  the  gorge,  and  filled 
with  consternation  the  men  at  the  guns.  The  hill  was  gained  in  the  face  of  a 
deadly  fire,  the  guns  reached,  the  gunners  shot  or  bayoneted,  the  entire  battery  in 
our  possession  almost  in  as  short  a  time  as  I  have  taken  to  write  an  account  of  it. 
The  charge  of  the  4th  Michigan  was  one  of  the  bravest  and  most  successful  of  the 
war.  The  Potomac  at  the  ford  is  about  four  feet  deep.  The  boys  threw  off  their 
coats  and  waded  across  in  water  up  to  their  waists,  and  with  many  of  them  nearly 
up  to  their  neck.  The  guns,  with  one  exception,  were  all  brought  across  the 
river.  The  one  left  on  the  other  side  was  spiked,  dismounted  and  rolled  down 
the  bluff.  Two  of  the  pieces  formerly  belonged  to  Griffin's  battery,  which  was 
taken  from  us  at  the  first  battle  of  Bull  Run ;  another  was  a  Parrot  and  the 
others  12-pound  brass  howitzers,  manufactered  in  England.  The  battery  alto 
gether  is  perhaps  the  most  valuable  taken  by  McClellan  since  he  had  command 
of  the  army.  It  should  be  presented  to  the  brave  4th  Michigan  as  a  reward  for 
their  achievement 

The  letters  of  wounded  soldiers  and  officers,  from  the  battle-field, 
are  among  to  most  touching  mementoes  of  the  war.  After  one  of  the 
battles  of  McClellan,  in  Maryland,  a  torn  and  soiled  envelop  was 
picked  up  on  the  field  with  the  following  written  upon  it  in  pencil, 
which  was  ascertained  to  be  from  a  Michigan  officer,  Captain  Allen  H. 
Zacharias,  of  Monroe  : 

DEAR  PARENTS,  BROTHERS  AND  SISTERS: — T  am  wounded,  mortally,  I  think.  The 
fight  rages  around  me.  I  have  done  my  duty — this  is  my  consolation.  I  hope  to 
meet  you  all  again.  I  left  not  the  line  until  nearly  all  had  fallen  and  the  colors 
gone.  1  am  getting  weak.  My  arms  free,  but  below  my  chest  all  is  numb.  The 
enemy  is  about  me.  [Some  other  words  were  written,  but  the  envelop  was  so  torn 
that  they  could  not  be  deciphered.] 

Your  son,  ALLEN. 

One  of  the  most  affecting  of  all  the  letters  was  that  written  by 
Colonel  Thornton  Brodhead,  commander  of  the  1st  Michigan  cavalry, 
to  his  wife,  from  the  fatal  battle-field  before  Washington,  when  Pope 
was  defeated  through  the  treachery  of  Fitz  John  Porter : 

MY  DEAREST  WIFE : — I  write  to  you,  mortally  wounded,  from  the  battlefield. 

We  are  again  defeated,  and  ere  this  reaches  you  your  children  will  be  fatherless. 

Before  f  die  let  me  implore  that,  in  some  way  it  may  be  stated  that  General 

27 


418  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

has  been  outwitted,  and  that is  a  traitor.     Had  they  done  their  duty  as  I 

did  mine,  and  had  led  as  I  led,  the  dear  old  flag  had  waved  in  triumph. 

I  wrote  to  you  yesterday  morning.  To-day  is  Sunday,  and  to-day  1  sink  to  the 
green  couch  of  our  final  rest. 

1  have  fought  well,  my  darling,  and  I  was  shot  in  the  endeavor  to  rally  our 
broken  battalions.  I  could  have  escaped,  but  I  would  not  till  all  hope  was  gone, 
and  was  shot — about  the  only  one  of  our  forces  left  on  the  field.  Our  cause  is 
just,  and  our  generals,  not  the  enemy's,  have  defeated  us.  In  God's  good  time 
He  will  give  us  victory. 

And  now,  good-by,  wife  and  children.  Bring  them  up,  I  know  you  will,  in  the 
fear  of  God  and  love  for  the  Saviour.  But  for  you  and  the  dear  ones  dependent, 
I  should  die  happy.  1  know  the  blow  will  fall  with  crushing  weight  on  you. 
Trust  to  him  who  gave  manna  in  the  wilderness. 

Dr.  Nash  is  with  me.  It  is  now  after  midnight,  and  I  have  spent  most  of  the 
night  in  sending  messages  to  you. 

Two  bullets  have  gone  through  my  chest,  and  directly  through  the  lungs.  I 
suffer  but  little  now,  but  at  first  the  pain  was  acute.  1  have  won  the  soldier's 
name,  and  am  ready  to  meet  now,  as  I  must,  the  soldier's  fate.  1  hope  that  from 
Heaven  I  may  see  the  glorious  old  flag  wave  again  over  the  undivided  union  I 
have  loved  so  well. 

Farewell,  wife  and  babes,  and  friends.     We  shall  meet  again. 

Your  loving,  THORNTON. 

This  noble  man,  who  thus  died  that  his  country  might  live,  was  the 
son  of  a  New  England  clergyman,  and  born  in  New  Hampshire,  in 
1822.  He  graduated  at  the  Harvard  Law  School,  served  in  the  Mexi 
can  war  as  an  officer  of  the  15th  IT.  S.  infantry,  in  which  he  was  twice 
breveted  for  gallantry  in  battle.  For  many  years  he  was  a  citizen  of 
.Detroit,  and  for  a  while  postmaster  of  that  city.  Sustained  by  love 
of  God  and  country,  his  last  letter  to  his  dear  ones  at  home,  is  another 
of  the  many  glorious  tokens  of  how  cheerfully  the  Christian  soldier 
can  die. 

Gettysburg,  the  most  terrible  and  bloody  battle  of  the  war;  indeed 
the  turning  point  of  the  rebellion,  occurred  in  the  year  succeeding  the 
writing  of  these  heroic  letters.  This  battle-field  was  consecrated  by 
the  blood  of  the  sons  of  Michigan.  The  24th  Michigan  was  one  of 
the  five  western  regiments  that  composed  the  famous  IRON  BRIGADE, 
who  held  the  key  point  at  Cemetery  Hill,  and  so  saved  the  army  from 
defeat. 

Out  of  496  men,  this  regiment  lost  316,  in  killed  and  wounded.  It  lost  all  its 
field  oflicers.  Its  Colonel,  Morrow,  was  prostrated  by  a  scalp  wound  and  taken 
prisoner.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Mark  Flanagan  lost  a  leg.  Major  Edwin  B.  Wright, 
lost  an  eye.  Deprived  of  its  superior  oflicers,  the  command  devolved  upon  a 
captain,  Albert  M.  Edwards.  Several  of  the  oflicers  and  men  even  when  severely 
wounded,  refused  to  leave  the  field.  In  a  subsequent  report,  Col.  Morrow  stated 
in  reference  to  the  regiment,  that  in  the  desperate  conflicts  of  the  day,  it  became 
almost  certain  death  to  carry  the  flag.  Privates  Abel  E.  Peck,  Charles  Ballou, 
and  August  Earnest,  color-bearers,  were  successively  killed.  Corporal  Andrew 
Wagner,  afterward  raised  the  standard,  and  was  shot  through  the  breast.  Col. 
Morrow  himselt,  then  took  the  colors  in  his  hands,  but  yielded  them  at  the  earnest 
request  ot  Private  Wm.  Kelley,  who  said,  "  The  Colonel  of  the  24th  Michigan 
shall  never  bear  the  colors  while  I  am  able  to  take  them.'1  The  flag  floated  again 
for  a  brief  period  in  the  front  of  the  battle,  but  soon  Private  Kelley  paid  the  pen 
alty  of  his  heroism  with  his  life.  Col.  Morrow  took  the  colors  once  more,  when 
he  too  fell  wounded  and  senseless.  After  the  deadly  strife  at  the  barricade  of 
rails,  this  cherished  flag  was  found  in  the  hands  of  a  soldier  of  the  regiment, 


IN    MICHIGAN.  419 

whose  name  is  unknown,  and  who,  although  to  all  appearance,  mortally  wounded, 
still  held  it  with  a  firm,  unyielding  grasp. 

In  the  tragedies  of  the  rebellion  Michigan  soldiers  bore  their  full 
share,  as  many  a  battle-field  testifies.  In  the  comicalities  of  the 
strife,  they  eclipsed  those  of  any  other  State,  for  to  them  fell  the  grati 
fication  of  capturing  Jefferson  Davis,  the  runaway  President  of  the 
collapsed  Confederacy,  while  endeavoring  to  escape  in  the  disguise  of 
a  superannuated  old  woman.  This  ludicrous  affair  took  place  just 
before  daylight  on  the  10th  of  May,  1865,  near  Irwinville,  in  South 
Georgia,  about  70  miles  from  the  Florida  coast,  for  which  the  Davis 
party  was  making.  Major-G-eneral  Wilson  had  sent  two  detachments 
of  horsemen  in  pursuit,  one  under  Col.  Pritchard,  of  the  4th  Michigan 
cavalry,  the  other  under  Col.  Harndon,  of  the  1st  Wisconsin.  The 
Michigan  men  first  came  to  the  tent  in  which  was  the  Davis  party, 
surrounded  it,  and  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  inmates.  The  two 
cavalry  detachments  arriving  by  different  roads  at  this  moment,  got 
in  conflict,  each  thinking  the  other  rebels.  Two  were  killed  and  six 
f  wounded  before  the  error  was  discovered.  Capt.  Hudson  of  the 
Michigan  troops,  had  placed  a  strong  guard  around  the  tent  where 
Davis  was  supposed  to  be,  and  when  the  firing  commenced,  thinking 
his  duty  called  him  to  the  fight,  he  left  the  tent  in  charge  of  a  cor 
poral,  with  orders  to  let  no  one  pass  out.  The  details  of  what  fol 
lowed,  have  been  variously  stated.  But  we  give  them  as  related  by 
General  Wilson,  in  a  letter  to  a  friend,  written  on  tho  evening  after 
the  delivery  of  Davis  into  his  hands : 

You  will,  doubtless,  have  seen  my  telegrams  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  beforo 
this  reaches  you,  detailing  the  events  of  the  capture.  Two  of  my  best  regiments, 
one  from  the  first  and  the  other  from  the  second  division,  were  on  the  trail 
together,  and  reached  the  rebel  camp  almost  simultaneously.  The  fight  which 
ensued  was  unfortunate,  but  unavoidable  in  the  uncertain  moonlight  Both  par 
ties  fully  expected  desperate  resistance,  and  both  had  gone  prepared. 

Colonel  Harndon,  of  the  1st  Wisconsin,  had  only  sixty  men,  Colonel  Pritchard 
had  one  hundred  and  thirty.  The  story  of  Davis'  ignoble  attempt  at  flight  is  even 
more  ignoble  than  I  told  it.  Mrs.  Davis  and  her  sister,  Miss  Howell,  after  having 
clothed  him  in  the  dress  of  the  former,  and  put  on  his  head  a  woman's  head-dross, 
started  out,  one  holding  each  arm.  and  besought  CoL  Pritchard's  men  in  most 
piteous  terms,  to  let  them  take  their  "poor  old  mother  out  of  the  way"  of  tho 
tiring." 

Mrs.  Davis  said,  "  Oh,  do  let  us  pass  with  our  POOR  OLD  MOTHER,  who  is  so  fright 
ened,  and  fears  to  be  killed."  One  of  Pritchard's  men,  catching  sight  of  the 
1  resident's  boots  below  the  skirts  of  the  dress,  suspected  at  once,  who  the  poor 
old  woman  was,  and  replied,  "  Oh,  no,  you  don't  play  that  game  on  me,  them  boots 
don't  look  very  much  like  they  belonged  to  a  woman.  Come  down,  old  fellow." 

It  is  rarely  that  two  witnesses  relate  a  circumstance  alike.  He  is 
an  uncommon  witness,  who,  in  all  details,  relates  it  twice  exactly 
alike.  A  staff  officer  of  Davis'  publishes  this  version  of  his  capture  : 

At  last  he  got  information  that  his  own  wife  and  family  were  in  danger  from 
the  assaults  of  military  marauders.  Mrs.  Davis,  with  her  three  children,  and 
accompanied  by  her  sister,  Miss  Howell,  had  a  wagon  train  of  her  own,  about 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  her  husband's  party.  She  was  very  anxious  to  go 
her  own  way,  and  be  no  embarrassment  to  him.  She  felt  equal  to  the  task  of  pro 
tecting  herself  from  reckless  Confederates,  and  felt  sure  of  avoiding  Federals.  But, 
no  sooner  did  he  ascertain  that  she  was  in  danger,  that  two  gangs  had  concocted 
a  scheme  to  seize  all  her  trunks,  under  the  impression  that  she  carried  the  rebel 
gold,  than  he  resolved,  at  all  hazards,  to  go  to  her  rescue.  It  was  a  fond  bus- 


420  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION  IN  MICHIGAN. 

band's,  a  fond  father's  infatuation.  No  remonstrance  availed.  He  set  out,  and 
rode  eighteen  miles  to  meet  the  object  of  his  love  and  solicitude.  He  met  them, 
and  the  first  to  rebuke  him  for  his  excess  of  fondness  was  the  anxious  wife  and 
mother.  A  tent  or  two  was  already  pitched,  and  he,  weary  to  exhaustion,  went 
to  sleep,  intending  to  retrace  his  steps  before  morning.  Had  he  not  gone  to  as 
sure  himself  of  his  wife's  safety,  and  had  he  not  been  excessively  fatigued  while 
there,  Colonel  Pritchard  would  be  without  the  honor  of  capturing  him,  for  nothing 
was  easier  than  his  escape,  as  Breckinridge  and  Wood  and  the  writer  of  this 
know,  and  by  meeting  no  interruption  themselves  have  proved.  Their  immunity 
might  have  been  his. 

But  Davis  ran  his  risks  and  took  the  chances,  fully  conscious  of  imminent  dan 
ger,  yet  powerless,  from  physical  weariness,  to  do  all  he  designed  doing  against 
the  danger.  When  the  musketry  firing  was  heard  in  the  morning,  at  "  dim  gray 
dawn,"  it  was  supposed  to  be  between  the  rebel  marauders  and  Mrs.  Davis'  few 
camp  defenders.  Under  this  impression  he  hurriedly  put  on  his  boots  and  pre 
pared  to  go  out,  for  the  purpose  of  interposing,  saying 

"They  will  at  least  as  yet  respect  me. 

As  he  got  to  the  tent  door,  thus  hastily  equipped,  and  with  this  good  intention 
of  preventing  an  effusion  of  blood  by  an  appeal  in  the  name  of  a  fading,  but  not 
wholly  faded  authority,  he  saw  a  few  cavalry  ride  up  the  road  and  deploy  in  front. 

"  Ha,  Federals!  "  was  his  exclamatiom. 

"Then  you  are  captured,"  cried  Mrs.  Davis,  with  emotion. 

In  a  moment  she  caught  an  idea — a  woman's  idea — and  as  quickly  as  women 
in  an  emergency  execute  their  designs  it  was  done.  He  slept  in  a  wrapper — a 
loose  one.  It  was  yet  around  him.  This  she  fastened  ere  he  was  aware  of  it, 
and  then  bidding  him  adieu,  urged  him  to  go  to  the  spring,  a  short  distance  off, 
where  his  horses  and  arms  were.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  there  was  not  even  a 
pistol  in  the  tent.  Davis  felt  that  his  only  course  was  to  reach  his  horse  and 
arms,  and  complied.  As  he  was  leaving  the  door,  followed  by  a  servant  with  a 
water-bucket,  Miss  Howell  flung  a  shawl  over  his  head.  There  was  no  time  to 
remove  it  without  exposure*  and  embarrassment,  and  as  he  had  not  far  to  go,  he 
ran  the  chance  exactly  as  it  was  devised  for  him;  In  these  two  articles  con 
sisted  the  woman's  attire,  of  which  so  much  nonsense  has  been  spoken  and  writ 
ten;  and,  under  these  circumstances,  and  in  this  way,  was  Jefferson  Davis  go 
ing  forth  to  perfect  his  escape  No  bonnet,  no  gown,  no  petticoats,  no  crinoline, 
no  nothing  of  all  these.  And  what  tliere  was  happened  to  be  excusable  under 
ordinary  circumstances,  and  perfectly  natural  as  things  were. 

But  it  was  too  late  for  any  effort  to  reach  his  horses,  and  the  confederate  pres 
ident  was  at  last  a  prisoner  in  the  hands  of  the  United  States. 

The  staff  officer  does  not  surmount  the  unromantic  fact,  that  "the 
Confederate  President"  was  at  last  caught  trying  to  escape  in  the 
clothes  of  a  woman.  That  he  had  "no  bonnet,  no  gown,  no  petti 
coats,  no  crinoline,"  the  peculiar  friends  of  his  excellency  must  apol 
ogize  for  him  under  the  trying  circumstances  of  a  very  hasty  toilet! 

Poor  man  !  The  charitably  disposed  will  forgive  him  that  his  dis 
guise  was  not  more  complete.  But  why  he,  a  West  Point  graduate, 
"a  born  soldier"  too,  should  leave  his  arms  over  night  at  a  wayside 
spring,  in  the  custody  of  his  horse,  is  among  the  puzzling  matters  our 
veracious  staff  officer  does  not  explain. 


WISC  0  NSIN. 


WISCONSIN  derives  its  name  from  its  principal  river,  which  the  Chippewas, 
resided  on  its  head-waters,  called   the  Wees-kon-san,  which  signifies 

"gathering  of  the  waters."  The 
French  voyageurs  called  it  Ouisconsin, 
the  first  syllable  of  which  is  nearer 
the  Indian  sound  than  Wis.  The 
first  white  men  on  the  soil  of  Wis 
consin  were  two  French  fur  traders, 
who  passed  the  winter  of  1659  among 
the  Indians  of  Lake  Superior.  Ar 
riving  at  Quebec  the  next  summer, 
with  sixty  canoes,  loaded  with  furs, 
and  manned  with  300  Algonquins, 
they  aroused  a  spirit  of  religious 
zeal  among  the  Jesuits  to  bear  the 
cross  in  the  cabins  of  those  distant 
tribes.  In  1661,  Father  Mesnard 
went  on  a  mission  to  the  south  side 
of  Lake  Superior,  where  he  resided 
more  than  eight  months,  surrounded 
by  savages  and  a  few  French  voy 
ageurs:  he  finally  perished,  in  some 
unknown  way,  in  the  rocky  pine  clad  wilderness.  Undismayed  by  his  sad 
fate  a  successor  was  appointed,  Father  Claude  Allouez,  who  arrived  at  the 
Sault  Ste.  Marie  on  the  1st  of  September,  1668.  "He  employed  the  whole 
month  of  September  in  coasting  the  southern  portion  of  Lake  Superior, 
where  he  met  many  Christians  baptized  by  Father  Mesnard.  '  I  had  the 
pleasure,'  says  this  venerable  man,  'of  assuring,  by  baptism,  the  eternal  sal 
vation  of  many  a  dying  infant.'  His  success  with  the  adults  seems  to  have 
been  less.  At  Chagouamigon,  or  St.  Michael,  on  the  south-western  side  of 
Lake  Superior,  there  were  gathered  eight  hundred  warriors  of  different 
nations;  a  chapel  was  built;  among  them  were  several  tribes  who  under 
stood  the  Algonquin  language.  So  fine  an  occasion  for  exercising  his 
zeal  could  not  be  overlooked.  'I  spoke  in  the  Algonquin  language,'  says  he, 
'for  a  long  time,  on  the  subject  of  the  Christian  religion,  in  an  earnest  and 
powerful  manner,  but  in  language  suited  to  the  capacity  of  my  audience.  I 

(421) 


ARMS  OF  WISCONSIN. 
MOTTO — Forward. 


422  WISCONSIN. 

was  greatly  applauded,  but  this  was  the  only  fruit  of  my  labors.'  Among  the 
number  assembled,  were  three  hundred  Pottawatomies,  two  hundred  Sauks, 
eighty  Illinoians.  In  the  year  1668,  peace  having  been  established  between 
the  French  and  the  Six  Nations,  many  discoveries  were  made,  and  many  new 
missions  established.  In  this  year  Fathers  Dablon  and  Marquette  went  to 
the  mission  of  Sault  Ste.  Marie.  In  the  same  year,  Father  Nicholas,  who  was 
on  the  mission  with  Allouez,  conducted  a  deputation  of  'Nez  Perces,'  an  Al 
gonquin  tribe,  to  Quebec,  and  Father  Allouez  went  to  the  mission  at  Green 
Bay.  Sault  Ste.  Marie  was  made  the  center  of  their  missionary  labors  among 
the  Algonquin  tribes." 

Father  Marquette  had  been  residing  at  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  and  the 
Sault  Ste.  Marie  about  five  years,  when,  accompanied  by  M.  Joliet,  a  French 
gentleman  of  Quebec,  and  five  French  voyageurs  and  two  Indian  guides,  he 
started  from  the  straits  on  an  exploring  expedition.  He  "had  heard  of  the 
great  river  of  the  west,  and  fancied  that  upon  its  fertile  banks — not  mighty 
cities,  mines  of  gold,  or  fountains  of  youth,  but  whole  tribes  of  God's  chil 
dren,  to  whom  the  sound  of  the  Gospel  had  never  come.  Filled  with  the 
wish  to  go  and  preach  to  them,  he  obeyed  with  joy  the  orders  of  Talon,  the 
wise  intendent  of  Canada,  to  lead  a  party  into  the  unknown  distance." 

Marquette  passed  down  Green  Bay  to  Fox  River,  which  they  entered,  and 
dragged  their  canoes  through  its  strong  rapids  to  a  village  of  Indians  where 
Father  Allouez  had  visited,  and  where  "  they  found  a  cross,  on  which  hung 
skins  and  belts,  bows  and  arrows,  which  they  had  offered  to  the  great  Mani- 
tou  (God),  to  thank  him  because  he  had  taken  pity  on  them  during  the  win 
ter,  and  had  given  them  abundant  chase."  Beyond  this  point  no  Frenchman 
had  gone,  and  here  was  the  bound  of  discovery. 

"  Being  guided  by  the  friendly  Indians,  Marquette  and  his  companions  came 
to  the  Wisconsin  River,  about  three  leagues  distant,  whose  waters  flowed 
westward.  They  floated  down  the  river  till  the  17th  of  June,  1673,  when 
they  reached  the  Mississippi,  the  great  'Father  of  Waters,'  which  they  en 
tered  with  'a  joy  that  could  not  be  expressed,'  and  raising  their  sails  to  new 
skies,  and  to  unknown  breezes,  floated  down  this  mighty  river,  between  broad 
plains,  garlanded  with  majestic  forests  and  chequered  with  illimitable  prairies 
and  island  groves.  They  descended  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles, 
when  Marquette  and  Joliet  landed,  and  followed  an  Indian  trail  about  six 
miles,  to  a  village.  They  were  met  by  four  old  men,  bearing  the  pipe  of 
peace  and  'brilliant  with  many  colored  plumes.'  An  aged  chief  received 
them  at  his  cabin,  and,  with  uplifted  hands,  exclaimed :  '•How  beautiful  is  the 
sun.  Frenchmen,  when  thou  earnest  to  visit  us! — our  whole  village  awaits  thee — 
in  peace  thou  shalt  enter  all  our  dwellings.'  Previous  to  their  departure,  an 
Indian  chief  selected  a  peace  pipe  from  among  his  warriors,  embellished  with 
gorgeous  plumage,  which  he  hung  around  the  neck  of  Marquette,  'the  mys 
terious  arbiter  of  peace  and  war — the  sacred  calumet — the  white  man's  pro 
tection  among  savages.'  On  reaching  their  boats,  the  little  group  proceeded 
onward.  'I  did  not,'  says  Marquette,  'fear  death;  I  should  have  esteemed 
it  the  greatest  happiness  to  have  died  for  the  glory  of  God.'  They  passed 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  the  humble  missionary  resolved  in  his  mind, 
one  day,  to  ascend  its  mighty  current,  and  ascertain  its  source ;  and  descend 
ing  from  thence  toward  the  west,  publish  the  gospel  to  a  people  of  whom  he 
had  never  heard.  Passing  onward,  they  floated  by  the  Ohio,  then,  and  for 
a  brief  time  after,  called  the  Wabash,  and  continued  their  explorations  as 
far  south  as  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas,  where  they  were  escorted  to  the 


WISCONSIN, 

Indian  village  of  Arkansea.  Being  now  satisfied  that  the  Mississippi  en 
tered  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  west  of  Florida,  and  east  of  California;  and  hav- 
•ng  spoken  to  the  Indians  of  God  and  the  mysteries  of  the  Catholic  faith, 
Marquette  and  Joliet  prepared  to  ascend  the  stream.  They  returned  by  the 
route  of  the  Illinois  River  to  Green  Bay,  where  they  arrived  in  August. 
Marquette  remained  to  preach  the  gospel  to  the  Miamis,  near  Chicago, 
Joliet,  in  person,  conveyed  the  glad  tidings  of  their  discoveries  to  Quebec. 
They  were  received  with  enthusiastic  delight.  The  bells  were  rung  during 
the  whole  day,  and  all  the  clergy  and  dignitaries  of  the  place  went,  in  pro 
cession,  to  the  cathedral,  where  Te  Deum  was  sung  and  high  mass  cele 
brated." 

Wisconsin  was  next  visited  by  La  Salle  and  Father  Hennepin,  a  Fancis- 
can  friar,  a  man  of  ambition  and  energy.  These  adventurers  having  passed 
down  the  Illinois,  Hennepin  paddled  up  the  Mississippi  as  far  as  the  Wiscon 
sin,  where  he  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Indians,  who  treated  him  and  his 
companions  kindly.  They  then  took  them  up  to  the  Falls,  which  Hennepin 
named  St.  Anthony,  in  honor  of  his  patron  saint.  From  this  point  he  re 
turned  to  Canada,  by  way  of  Lake  Superior,  and  thence  to  France.  The 
first  permanent  settlement  by  the  whites  in  Wisconsin,  appears  to  have  been 
made  at  Green  Bay,  about  the  year  1745.  by  Augustin  De  Langlade,  a  na 
tive  of  France,  of  noble  family,  who  emigrated  to  Canada  at  an  early  age. 

The  territory  remained  under  the  government  of  France  till  1763,  when, 
at  the  treaty  of-  Paris,  it  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain,  who  retained  it  until 
the  independence  of  the  United  States  was  acknowledged  by  that  countrv,  in 
1783,  when  it  was  claimed  by  Virginia  as  part  of  the  Illinois  country,  con 
quered  by  Col.  George  Rodgers  Clark.  It  remained,  however,  in  the  posses 
sion  of  Great  Britain  till  1796,  when  it  was  surrendered  in  accordance  with 
Jay's  treaty,  ratified  the  previous  year.  In  1784,  it  was  ceded  by  Virginia 
to  the  United  States.  In  1787,  a  government  was  provided  for  the  territory 
north-west  of  the  Ohio.  In  1800,  it  was  divided  into  two  separate  govern 
ments,  the  western  being  called  Indiana.  In  1809,  Indiana  was  divided  and 
Illinois  organized.  When  Illinois  was  formed  into  a  state,  in  1818,  the  ter 
ritory  north  of  the  parallel  of  Lat.  42°  30',  west  of  the  middle  of  Lake 
Michigan,  was  attached  to  the  territory  of  Michigan,  which  had  been  set  off 
from  Indiana  in  1805. 

In  1832,  commenced  the  "  Black  Hawk  War"  the  most  important  actions 
of  which  took  place  within  the  "  Huron  District "  of  Michigan,  as  Wiscon 
sin  was  then  called:  they  will  be  found  detailed  on  page  1106  of  this  work. 
When  Michigan  was  formed  into  a  state,  in  1836,  Wisconsin  was  erected  into 
a  separate  territorial  government.  Wisconsin  Territory  comprised  within  its 
limits  and  jurisdiction  the  whole  region  from  Lake  Michigan  to  Lake  Supe 
rior,  extending  westward  to  the  Missouri  River,  including  all  the  sources  of 
the  Upper  Mississippi.  Its  southern  limits  were  the  northern  boundaries  of 
the  states  of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  and  its  extent  from  north  to  south  was 
580  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  650  miles.  The  first  "  governor  and  super 
intendent  of  Indian  affairs "  was  Henry  Dodge,  and  John  S.  Homer  was 
territorial  secretary.  Gov.  Dodge  convened  the  first  territorial  legislature  at 
Belmont,  now  in  Lafayette  county.  The  second  session  was  convened  in 
Burlington,  now  in  Iowa,  and  the  next,  in  1838,  in  Madison,  the  present 
capital. 

"  The  settled  portions  of  the  territory  were  chiefly  near  the  western  shore 
if  Lake  Michigan,  and  the  organized  counties  extended  westward  and  south- 


424  WISCONSIN. 

westwardly  to  the  banks  of  the  Fox  River  of  Green  Bay,  as  far  as  Fort 
Winnebago,  and  thence  down  the  Wisconsin  River,  on  the  south-eastern  sid(.x 
for  thirty  miles  below  the  "portage."  At  the  same  time,  immigrants,  by  way 
of  Milwaukie  and  Racine,  were  advancing  upon  the  upper  tributaries  of  Rock 
River,  as  far  west  as  the  "Four  Lakes"  and  Fort  Madison.  A  few  settle 
ments  had  extended,  likewise,  westward  to  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  north 
of  Galena  and  the  Illinois  state  line.  Others  had  been  slowly,  for  more  than 
three  years,  extending  west  of  the  Mississippi,  upon  the  waters  of  the  Des 
Moines,  Skunk  River,  Lower  Iowa,  and  Waubesapinacon,  as  well  as  upon 
the  immediate  banks  of  the  Mississippi  itself.  These  settlements,  for  tem 
porary  government,  were  annexed  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Wisconsin  Ter 
ritory  as  the  "  District  of  Iowa." 

The  remainder  of  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin,  north  and  west  of  the  Wis 
consin  River  and  of  Fox  River,  as  well  as  the  northern  and  western  portions 
of  the  present  state  of  Iowa,  was  a  savage  waste,  still  in  the  partial  occu 
pancy  of  the  remaining  tribes  of  Indians,  and  in  a  great  degree  unknown  to 
civilization.  Such  were  the  extent  and  population  of  the  Wisconsin  Terri 
tory  upon  its  first  independent  organization. 

During  the  years  1841,  1842,  and  1843,  emigration  from  the  north-eastern 
states  began  to  send  its  floods  into  the  Wisconsin  Territory,  both  by  way  of 
the  lakes  and  by  way  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  to  the  banks  of  the 
Wisconsin  River.  Thousands,  especially  in  the  latter  years,  crowded  into 
the  beautifully  undulating  lands  along  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan, 
south  of  Green  Bay,  to  the  Illinois  line;  and  population  extended  rapidly 
from  the  lake  shore  westward  to  the  banks  of  Fox  River,  and  along  the  re 
gion  south  of  the  Wisconsin  River  as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi. 
Settlements  soon  spread  over  this  delightful  country,  diversified  by  lakes  and 
prairies,  in  which  all  the  crystal  tributaries  of  Rock  River  take  their  rise. 

A  few  years  before,  this  had  been  called  the  "Far  West,"  beyond  the  ad 
vance  of  white  settlements  and  civilized  life,  in  the  sole  occupancy  of  the 
most  degraded  and  improvident  of  the  savages,  the  Winnebagoes,  Sauks,  and 
Foxes.  Now  towns  and  commerce  occupy  the  seats  and  haunts  of  the  de 
graded  Indian,  upon  which  the  rays  of  civilization  had  never  beamed.  A 
large  mercantile  town,  with  an  active  and  enterprising  community,  had  sprung 
up  at  Milwaukee  Bay;  a  town  which,  three  years  afterward,  in  1845,  became 
an  incorporated  city,  with  extensive  powers  and  privileges,  designed  to  render 
it  the  commercial  emporium  of  the  future  state  of  Wisconsin.  Other  trad 
ing  towns  lined  the  beautiful  shore  of  the  lake  for  many  miles  north  and 
pouth  of  this  central  depot. 

During  the  year  1843,  the  aggregate  number  of  persons  who  arrived  in 
the  Wisconsin  Territory  has  been  estimated  at  more  than  sixty  thousand, 
embracing  all  ages  and  sexes.  Of  these,  about  fifty  thousand  arrived  by  way 
of  the  lake  route.  The  remainder  advanced  by  way  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Wisconsin  Rivers,  and  comprised  a  great  proportion  of  foreign  emigrants 
from  the  German  states.  These  emigrants  spread  over  the  country  south  and 
east  of  the  Wisconsin  River,  and  opened  new  settlements  upon  its  northern 
and  western  tributaries.  In  1845,  Wisconsin  Territory  contained  more  in 
habitants  than  any  other  new  state  possessed  upon  her  admission  into  the 
Union ;  yet  the  people,  satisfied  with  the  territorial  form  of  gover?imen*,  de 
sired  not,  in  the  recent  state  of  the  principal  settlements,  to  incur  the  addi 
tional  expense  of  an  independent  state  government.  Hence,  with  a  popula 
tion  of  more  than  one  hundred  and  forty  thousand  souls,  the  Wisconsin  Ter- 


WISCONSIN. 

ritory  had  not,  in  1845,  made  application  to  congress  for  authority  to  estab 
lish  a  state  government.  In  May,  1848,  however,  Wisconsin  was  admitted 
into  the  Union." 

Wisconsin  is  bounded  N.  by  Lake  Superior,  the  upper  peninsula  of  Mich 
igan,  and  Minnesota,  W.  by  Minnesota  and  Iowa,  E.  by  Lake  Michigan,  and 
S.  by  Illinois.  It  lies  between  42°  30' and  46°  55'  N.  Lat.,  and  between  87° 
and  92°  50'  W.  Long.  Its  greatest  extent  north  and  south  is  285  miles,  and 
255  east  and  west,  having  a  land  area  of  53,924  square  miles,  or  34,511,360 
acres,  of  which  1,045,499  only  were  improved  in  1850. 

Wisconsin  is  one  of  the  healthiest  of  countries,  with  a  dry,  transparent, 
and  bracing  atmosphere,  and  remarkably  free  from  levers  and  ague.  Writers 
familiar  with  it,  say : 

"It  is,  indeed,  delightful  in  speculation  to  talk  of  constant  spring,  of  perpetual 
verdure,  of  flowers  in  bloom  at  all  seasons,  of  purling  brooks  never  obstructed  by 
ice,  of  a  mild  climate,  where  Jack  Frost  never  spreads  his  white  drapery  over  the 
surface  of  the  earth ;  but  it  is  a  problem,  not  yet  fully  solved,  whether  a  tropical 
climate  contributes  more  to  one's  happiness  than  the  varying  seasons  of  a  north 
ern  clime.  Nay,  whatever  doubt  there  is  on  the  subject  predominates  in  favor  of 
a  northern  latitude.  Industry,  intelligence,  morality,  and  virtue,  are  exhibited 
more  generally  among  the  inhabitants  of  northern  latitudes  than  those  of  southern. 
If  one's  physical  enjoyment  is  equally  promoted  by  the  bracing  air  of  a  cold  cli 
mate,  then,  indeed,  the  argument  is  in  favor  of  the  latter,  for  vigor  of  body  and 
purity  of  mind  are  the  most  essential  ingredients  in  the  cup  of  happiness.  The 
air  of  our  winters  is  dry  and  bracing.  When  snow  falls  it  usually  remains  on  the 
ground  several  months,  forming  an  excellent  road  either  for  traveling,  business,  or 
pleasure.  The  rivers  are  securely  wedged  with  ice,  rendering  many  portions  of  the 
country  more  accessible  at  that  season  than  at  any  other.  An  excellent  opportu 
nity  is  afforded  to -the  younger  portion  of  the  community  for  innocent  amusements 
— sleighing,  sliding  downhill,  and  skating — amusements  highly  exhilarating,  and 
prornotive  alike  of  health  and  happiness.  These  observations  have  been  made  be 
cause  a  greater  value  is  often  set  on  a  mild  southern  climate,  in  reference  to  its 
capacity  in  affording  the  means  of  happiness  or  of  health,  than  it  really  possesses." 

"  We  have  always  made  it  a  point  to  inquire  of  new  settlers  in  Wisconsin  how 
they  liked  the  climate,  and  the  answer  invariably  was,  that  it  was  far  superior  to 
that  of  the  states  they  had  left — whether  Eastern,  Middle  or  Southern,  One  emi 
grant  says:  'As  the  result  of  my  observations,  I  would  state  briefly — and  in  this 
1  do  but  repeat  a  common  sentiment — -that  1  would  much  rather  spend  a  winter  in 
Wisconsin  than  in  New  York  or  Pennsylvania.  True,  the  weather  is  cold  ;  but  it 
is  of  that  settled,  steady,  clear  character,  which  we  here  call  ''bracing  weather* 
No  damp  winds,  no  sloppy  thaw,  no  uncomfortable  rains,  but  day  after  day  the 
same  unbroken  field  of  snow,  the  same  clear,  bright  sunshine,  the  same  untroubled 
air.  Winter  here  holds  undisputed  sway ;  it  is  not  a  muddled  mixture  of  all  sea 
sons,  hi  which  the  breezy  spring,  the  clear  autumn,  the  sunny  summer  and  the 
rigorous  winter  mingle  and  mix,  and  come  and  go  together.  You  will  understand 
the  force  of  this  distinction  when  I  tell  you  that  the  first  fall  of  snow  in  Wiscon 
sin  remains  on  the  ground  during  the  whole  winter  without  a  crust;  so  free  is  the 
air  from  that  dampness,  which,  in  other  countries  produce  it.  Who  among  you 
has  not  noticed  the  penetrating  character  of  dampness  in  cold — its  chilling,  search 
ing  qualities;  or  who,  on  the  other  hand,  has  not  gone  abroad  on  days  of  intense 
coldness,  but  when  the  air  was  dry  and  pure,  and  felt  elastic,  buoyant,  and  com 
fortable.  Such  is  a  Wisconsin  winter.  I  suffered  less  from  the  cold  while  here, 
than  I  have  many  times  in  Pennsylvania  when  the  thermometer  stood  much 
higher." 

Wisconsin  may  be  described  generally  as  an  elevated  rolling  prairie,  the 
highest  portion  being  on  the  north,  and  forms  the  dividing  ridge  between  the 
waters  flowing  S.W.  into  the  Mississippi,  and  those  flowing  northward  and 
eastward  into  the  lakes.  Limestone  underlies  most  of  the  southern  part  of 


420  WISCONSIN. 

the  state;  the  northern  part  is  composed  of  primitive  rocks,  mostly  granite, 
slate  and  sand  stone.  The  country  south  of  the  middle  is  a  fine  agricultural 
region,  producing  from  30  to  50  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre.  The  prairies 
of  Wisconsin  are  generally  small,  and  being  skirted  and  belted  with  timber, 
are  adapted  to  immediate  and  profitable  occupation,  the  soil  being  a  dark, 
rich  vegetable  mold.  One  peculiarity  in  southern  Wisconsin  strikes  the 
traveler — the  high  degree  of  culture,  thrift,  and  cleanliness  of  the  farms, 
which  is  attributed  principally  to  the  fact,  that  almost  every  quarter  section, 
in  its  natural  state,  is  ready  for  plowing  and  fencing,  and  also  to  the  charac 
ter  of  the  settlers,  off  shoots  from  the  hardy  and  industrious  people  of  the 
Eastern  states  and  northern  Ohio.  A  large  number  of  Norwegians  and  other 
emigrants  from  northern  Europe,  have  emigrated  to  this  young  and  thriving 
State. 

Vast  quantities  of  pine  lumber  are  obtained  from  the  northern  sections  of 
the  state,  ranging  from  five  to  eight  millions  annually  in  value,  though  the 
business  is  in  its  infancy.  The  agricultural  staples  are  wheat,  Indian  corn, 
oats,  potatoes,  butter,  live  stock,  etc.  The  wheat  crop  of  1860  was  about  26 
millions  of  bushels.  Beside  the  great  lakes,  Superior  and  Michigan,  on  its 
northern  and  eastern  shores,  Wisconsin  has  vast  numbers  of  small  lakes 
within  its  borders,  generally  characterized  by  clear  water,  bold,  picturesque 
shores,  with  excellent  fish. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Wisconsin  are  important,  but  as  yet  imperfectly 
known.  The  great  lead  region,  mostly  in  the  south-western  part  of  the 
state,  contain  mines  supposed  to  be  inexhaustible,  and  decidedly  the  richest 
in  the  known  world.  Valuable  copper  and  zinc  ores  are  found  at  Mineral 
Point  and  in  its  vicinity,  also  iron  ore  in  various  places.  The  bulk  of  the 
population  of  the  state  is  in  its  southern  part,  most  of  the  country  in  the 
north  being  an  unexplored  wilderness.  If  as  densely  settled  as  Massachu 
setts,  Wisconsin  would  contain  more  than  seven  millions  of  inhabitants'! 
Population  in  1820,  1,444;  in  1830,  3,245;  in  1840,  30,945;  in  1850,  305,- 
566;  in  1855,  552,109;  and  in  1860,  768,585* 

*  Ritchie,  in  his  work  on  Wisconsin,  says  :  "  The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Wisconsin 
does  not  exhibit  their  relative  strength  and  power.  Our  population  are  nearly  all  in  the 
prime  of  life.  You  rarely  meet  a  woman  past  fifty  years  of  age ;  still  more  rarely  as  old  a 
man  ;  and  large  numbers  are  too  young  to  have  had  many  children.  The  Milwaukie  Amer 
ican  says:  <  It  is  a  fact,  noticed  and  remarked  by  nearly  every  eastern  visitor  to  the  west, 
that  no  small  amount  of  the  business  of  the  west  and  north-west  is  conducted  by  young  men. 
Go  where  you  will,  in  every  city,  town  and  village,  you  will  find  more  youthful  countenances 
elongated  with  the  cares  and  anxieties  of  business  pursuits,  than  those  unacquainted  with 
the  peculiar  circumstances  attaching  to  western  life  and  enterprise  could  be  made  to  believe. 
Youth  and  energy  are  found  conducting  and  managing  our  railroads  and  our  banking  in 
stitutions.  Beardless  youngsters  are  seen  behind  the  desks — their  desks — of  our  counting 
houses,  and  in  our  manufactories,  mixed  up  with  our  commerce,  and,  in  short,  taking  active 
parts  in  every  field  of  business  enterprise.  A  year's  experience  as  a  clerk,  or  an  agent  for 
others,  gives  him  an  insight  into  the  modti*  operandi  of  '  making  money,'  and  his  wits  are 
get  in  motion,  and  his  industrious  ingenuity  brought  to  bear  in  his  own  behalf,  and  he  de 
sires  to  'go  into  business  for  himself.'  Frequently  with  a  small  capital,  oftener  with  none, 
he  engages  in  some  branch  of  traffic,  and  in  a  few  years  is  '  well  to  do  in  the  world.'  Such 
is  the  history  of  many  of  the  young  merchants  and  business  men  in  our  state,  and  we  do 
not  believe  that  a  more  enterprising,  intelligent,  and  thorough-going  business  community 
can  be  found  than  that  of  Wisconsin.  Youth,  energy,  and  a  laudable  ambition  to  rise  in 
the  world,  are  characteristic  elements  of  the  west:  they  have  made  her  what  she  now  is, 
and  give  glorious  promise  of  her  future.' 

In  one  of  oar  village  or  town  hotels,  crowded  with  moneyed  boarders — the  merchants, 
bankers,  and  chief  mechanics  of  the  place — two  thirds  of  them  will  be  found  to  be  between 
twenty-five  and  thirty  years  of  age  ;  their  wives,  of  course,  still  younger.  Our  population 
of  1,000,000  are  equal  in  industrial  capacity  to  at  least  twice  that  number  either  in  Europe 
or  in  the  Atlantic  states." 


WISCONSIN. 


427 


MILWAUKIE,  a  port  of  entry,  and  the  largest  city  in  Wisconsin,  is  built 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  75  miles  east  of  Madison,  and  85  north 
of  Chicago.  Lat.  43°  04',  Long.  87°  57'.  The  city  is  built  on  the  flats  of 


the  Milwaukie  River,  and  on  the  bluffs  near  the  lake, 
ascend  the  river  two  miles. 


The  shore  on  Lake  Michigan  consists  of 


The  largest  lake  boats 
bank 


South-eastern  river  view  in  Milwaukie. 

The  engraving  shows  a  river  or  harbor  view  in  Milwaukie,  as  seen  from  near  the  point  of  the  entrance 
of  Menominee  River.  The  swing  bridges  across  the  river  appear  in  the  central  part.  The  terminus  of 
the  Milwaukie  and  Mississippi  Railroad  is  near  the  building  on  the  extreme  left. 

of  clay  from  20  to  100  feet  high,  and  as  nearly  perpendicular  as  the  nature 
of  the  material  will  admit.  The  city  contains  about  20  founderies  and  ma 
chine  shops,  employing  about  1,000  men,  and  26  breweries,  employing  about 
500  men.  Ship  building  is  extensively  carried  on;  great  quantities  of  lum 
ber  are  exported ;  and  it  has  a  large  commerce  on  the  lakes,  and  does  an  ex 
tensive  business  with  the  interior  by  its  railroads,  one  of  which  crosses  the 
state  to  the  Mississippi.  It  is  noted  for  its  splendid  blocks  of  buildings,  and 
for  its  superior  brick,  which  have  become  a  valuable  article  of  export,  being 
used  even  as  far  east  as  New  York  city.  They  are  hard,  smooth,  and  of  a 
beautiful  straw  color.  It  has  also  in  its  vicinity  quarries  of  a  beautiful  light 
colored  stone.  Population,  in  1840,  1,751;  in  1850,  20,035;  and  in  1860, 
45,254. 

A  foreign  traveler  describes  Milwaukie  as  one  of  the  most  picturesquely 
situated  towns  he  had  seen  in  the  west.  Says  he':  "It  is  placed  on  both 
sides  of  a  river  which  falls  into  a  fine  bay  of  Lake  Michigan,  the  town  rising 
from  the  valley  of  the  river  on  either  side  to  high  bluffs  facing  the  lake. 
The  river  is  navigable  from  the  lake,  and  vessels  discharge  and  land  their 
cargoes  direct  into,  and  from,  the  granaries  and  warehouses  which  line  its 
banks.  Tramways  from  the  various  lines  of  railroad  run  along  the  other 
sides  of  these  warehouses,  so  that  the  greatest  facilities  are  afforded  for  the 


WISCONSIN. 

transport  and  handling  of  produce  and  merchandise.  The  extent  to  which 
labor  is  economized  in  this  way  both  here  and  at  Chicago  is  really  wonderful. 
By  the  aid  of  steam  power  half  a  million  bushels  of  grain  can  be  daily  re 
ceived  and  shipped  through  the  granaries  of  Chicago,  the  whole  of  it  being 
weighed  in  draughts  of  400  bushels  at  a  time,  as  it  passes  from  the  railroad 
to  the  vessel.  This  can  be  done  at  a  cost  of  a  farthing  a  bushel,  and  so  quiet 
is  the  whole  process  that  there  is  little  external  evidence  of  much  business 
going  on.  The  finest  church  in  Milwaukie  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
with  the  palace  of  the  bishop  on  one  side  of  it,  and  an  orphan  asylum  on 
the  other.  There  are  many  handsome  private  residences,  some  built  of  white 
marble,  and  the  principal  hotel  of  the  city,  the  Newhall  House,  is  very  little 
inferior  either  in  size,  architecture,  or  interior  fittings  and  arrangements,  to 
the  Hotel  de  Louvre  in  Paris.  This  city,  which  only  twenty-three  years  ago 
was  the  site  of  a  single  log  cabin,  now,  in  the  one  month  of  October,  ships 
a  million  bushels  of  wheat!  From  the  blufis  the  lake  looks  exactly  like  the 
sea,  as  no  opposite  shore  can  be  seen,  and  the  white-crested  waves  come  roll 
ing  into*  the  harbor  just  as  they  do  on  the  Atlantic.  There  are  numerous 
schools  in  the  city,  free  to  all,  arid  well  endowed  by  the  state." 

Milwaukie  derives  its  name  from  Me-ne-aw-kee,  an  Indian  word,  said  to 
signify  rich  or  beautiful  land.  The  first  white  person  who  located  at  Mil 
waukie  appears  to  have  been  Alexander  Laframboise,  from  Mackinaw,  who 
established  a  trading  house  here  about  the  year  1785.  He  soon  returned  to 
Mackinaw,  and  gave  his  business  to  his  brother  to  manage  for  him :  the  latter 
remained  here  for  several  years,  and  raised  a  family.  Laframboise  failing 
in  business,  his  trading  house  was  closed  about  the  year  1800.  At  this  period 
another  trader  established  himself  here,  employing  as  clerk  S.  Chappue,  who 
had  previously  been  with  Laframboise.  J.  B.  Beaubien  established  a  trading 
post  in  Milwaukie  at  this  time.  Some  four  or  five  years  later  Laurent  Flly 
was  sent  with  a  supply  of  goods,  by  Jacob  Franks,  of  Green  Bay,  to  carry 
on  a  summer  trade  at  Milwaukie,  buying  deer  skins  in  the  red.  Previous  to 
this  Jacques  Vieau,  of  Green  Bay,  commenced  trading  here,  and  continued  it 
regularly  every  winter,  excepting  that  of  1811-12,  until  1818,  when  his  son- 
in-law,  SOLOMON  JUNEAU  emigrated  here  from  Canada,  first  as  his  clerk,  and 
then  on  his  own  account,  and  he  may  be  considered  as  the  first  regular  set 
tler  and  founder  of  Milwaukie. 

In  the  publications  of  the  State  Historical  Society,  Mr.  Alex.  F.  Pratt 
gives  this  sketch  of  Mr.  Juneau,  arid  of  the  early  history  of  the  place : 

"Solomon  Juneau  emigrated  to  Milwaukie  in  the  fall  of  1818,  and  built 
him  a  log  cabin  among  the  natives.  At  that  time  his  family  consisted  of  a 
wife  and  one  child.  His  nearest  white  neighbors  were  at  Chicago,  Green 
Bay  and  Prairie  du  Chien.  He  kept  a  few  goods  suitable  for  the  Indian 
trade,  and  for  the  first  seventeen  years  he  was  not  only  the  only  merchant  in 
the  place,  but  the  only  white  man.  During  that  period,  a  few  Indian  traders 
were  occasionally  there,  but  not  permanently  located.  In  the  spring  of  1835, 
a  land  office  having  been  previously  established  at  Green  Bay,  this  land  was 
brought  into  market,  and  Mr.  Juneau  purchased  a  small  tract,  consisting  of 
about  130  acres,  lying  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  directly  north  of  Wis 
consin-street.  Previous  to  this  time,  Geo.  H.  Walker,  Esq.,  had  come  and 
made  a  claim  on  what  is  now  called  "Walker's  Point,"  which  he  subsequently 
obtained  a  title  to.  Byron  Kilbourn,  Esq.,  about  that  time  purchased  a  tract 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  which  has  from  that  time  been  known  by  the 
name  of  'Kilbourn  Town.'  Daniel  Wells,  Jr.,  W.  W.  Gilman,  George  D. 


WISCONSIN.  429 

Dousman,  E.  W.  Edgerton,  T.  C.  Dousman,  Geo.  0.  Tiffany,  D.  H.  Richards, 
William  Brown,  Jr.,  Milo  Jones,  Enoch  Darling,  and  others,  immigrated 
about  the  same  time,  and  made  large  purchases  of  lands.  In  the  course  of 
the  summer  of  1835,  a  number  of  good  buildings  were  erected,  and  a  great 
many  eastern  speculators  came  and  bought  lands  at  high  prices.  Mr.  Juneau, 
about  this  time,  sold  an  undivided  interest  in  his  lands  to  Morgan  L.  Martin. 
He  built  a  fine  dwelling  house  on  the  lot  where  Mitchell's  banking  house  now 
stands;  also  a  large  store  and  warehouse  on  what  is  now  known  as  'Luding- 
ton's  corner.'  In  1836,  when  we  came,  he  was  doing  a  large  business  both 
in  selling  goods  and  lots.  During  that  season,  some  two  or  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars'  worth  of  goods  had  been  brought  there  to  sell.  Ground 
rent  was  nearly  as  high  as  it  is  now.  A  merchant  with  a  stock  of  goods 
would  arrive  one  day,  and  by  the  next  day  noon  he  would  have  a  store  com 
pleted  to  open  in.  Things  were  done  on  the  California  principle.  They 
were  usually  built  of  rough  boards  with  a  'grass  floor,'  and  in  several  in 
stances  a  blanket  was  hung  up  for  a  partition,  and  one  half  of  the  tenement 
rented  to  another  for  a  dollar  a  day.  The  town  was  flooded  with  speculators, 
and  all  made  money  until  the  non-residents  left  and  navigation  closed,  when 
a  sudden  change  'came  o'er  the  spirit  of  their  dreams.' 

The  town  was  left  with  a  large  stock  of  goods,  and  but  few  inhabitants. 
Merchants  and  other  business  men  enjoyed  the  winter  in  the  best  possible 
manner.  During  the  fall  quite  a  large  number  of  actual  settlers  had  arrived, 
of  the  right  stamp,  among  whom  were  H.  N.  Wells,  J.  E.  Arnold,  Henry 
Williams,' Hans  Crocker,  J.  H.  Tweedy,  L.  Blossom,  J.  W.  Pixley,  S.  H. 
Martin,  Geo.  P.  Delaplaine,  Geo.  Reed,  Cyrus  Hawley,  Fred.  Wardner,  A.  0. 
T.  Breed,  Eliphalet  Cramer,  Rufus  Parks,  Curtis  Reed,  Orson  Reed,  Wm. 
M.  Dennis,  Truman  L.  Smith,  Edmond  D.  Clinton,  A.  A.  Bird,  and  many 
others,  whom  time  will  not  allow  us  to  mention.  All  had  been  doing  a  'land 
office  business,'  and  had  plenty  of  money  left  to  winter  on.  At  this  time  our 
old  friend  Juneau  was  supposed  to  be  worth  at  least  $100,000,  with  a  fair 
prospect  of  its  being  doubled  by  the  rise  of  land  in  the  spring.  We  have 
often  seen  him  in  those  days  go  into  his  store,  after  business  hours  were  over, 
and  take  from  the  drawers  the  money  that  his  clerks  had  received  during  the 
day  for  goods  and  lots,  amounting  often  to  8  or  10,000  dollars,  and  put  it 
loose  in  his  hat;  and  upon  one  occasion  we  recollect  of  his  hat  being  knocked 
off  in  a  playful  crowd,  when  some  $10,000  flew  in  various  directions.  In 
short,  money  seemed  to  be  of  no  earthly  use  to  him.  If  a  man  called  upon  him 
to  subscribe  for  either  a  public  improvement  or  a  charitable  object,  whatever 
was  required  he  subscribed,  without  asking  why  or  wherefore.  In  the  mean 
time  he  had  looked  on  and  seen  others  get  rich  on  the  rise  of  property  that 
he  had  sold,  and  he  commenced  buying  back  lots  and  paying  thousands  for 
those  he  had  previously  sold  for  hundreds.  We  recollect  very  well  one  cir 
cumstance:  his  re-purchasing  the  corner  lot,  near  Youngs'  Hall,  for  $3,700, 
which  he  had  sold  the  year  previous  for  $475.  He  was  truly,  in  the  lan 
guage  of  the  poet,  '  The  noblest  work  of  God,  an  honest  man.'  He  had 
implicit  confidence  in  every  body. 

The  spring  of  1837  disappointed  all  our  anticipations.  A  general  stagna 
tion  in  business  prevailed  in  all  directions.  Immigration  had  almost  entirely 
fallen  off.  Our  currency,  which  was  mostly  of  the  Michigan  'Wild  Cat' 
stamp,  was  no  longer  a  legal  tender.  There  was  no  sale  for  real  estate.  The 
second  payments  were  becoming  due  on  purchases  of  real  estate,  and  all  who 
supposed  themselves  rich  in  lands,  were  not  only  destitute  of  money,  but  the 


430  WISCONSIN. 

means  to  raise  it.  Some  who  were  able  to  hold  on,  kept  their  property  until 
they  could  get  a  handsome  advance ;  while  the  majority  were  compelled  to 
sell  for  what  they  could  get,  and  bankruptcy  was  the  inevitable  result. 

At  this  time,  there  were  but  few  settlements  in  the  interior;  but  the  hard 
times  which  continued  through  the  years  1837  and  1838,  induced  many  to 
leave  Milwaukie  and  locate  a 'claim.'  The  lands  between  Milwaukie  and 
Rock  River  were  then  surveyed,  but  were  not  brought  into  market  until  the 
fall  of  1839.  During  this  time  they  had  become  thickly  settled,  and  many 
of  them  quite  valuable.  The  hard  times  at  the  east  had  led  many  to  seek 
a  home  in  the  west;  and  in  the  fall  of  1839,  when  these  lands  came  into 
market,  many  of  them  had  been  so  improved  that  they  were  worth  from  $10 
to  $100  an  acre,  while  the  occupants  had  not  the  first  'red  cent'  to  buy  them 
with.  Consequently,  a  large  proportion  of  the  settlers  were  compelled  to 
either  sell  their  improvements  for  what  they  could  get,  or  pay  from  25  to  50 
per  cent,  for  money  to  enter  their  lands  with. 

About  this  time,  Alex.  Mitchell,  Harvey  Birchard,  the  Messrs.  Luding- 
tons,  E.  Eldred,  and  other  capitalists,  came  to  Milwaukie,  and  purchased  lots 
at  $100  each,  that  had  previously  been  sold  from  $1,000  to  $1,500,  and  are 
now  selling  from  $5,000  to  $15,000  each.  From  that  day  to  this,  '  the  rise 
and  progress'  of  Milwaukie  has  been  steady  and  onward.  The  price  of  land 
has  continued  to  advance  with  the  increase  of  business,  and  nearly  all  who 
commenced  in  business  there  at  that  time,  and  continued  to  the  present,  have 
become  wealthy  and  independent.  In  1846,  the  legislature  passed  an  act 
to  divide  Milwaukie  county,  and  establish  the  county  of  "VVaukesha;  also 
another  to  incorporate  the  city  of  Milwaukie.  At  the  first  charter  election 
in  the  new  city,  Solomon  Juneau  was  elected  mayor,  which  was  a  well  mer 
ited  compliment  to  the  '  old  pioneer.'  ". 

Mr.  Juneau  subsequently  removed  to  Dodge  county,  where  by  hard  labor 
he  earned  a  comfortable  living,  until  a  few  years  since,  when  he  was  "  gath 
ered  to  his  fathers." 

Mr.  Pratt  also  gives  these  amusing  reminiscences  of  the  judiciary  of  the 
Territory  of  Wisconsin : 

**  The  Territory  of  Wisconsin  was  organized  in  July,  1836.  It  was  divided 
into  three  judicial  districts.  Judge  Dunn  was  appointed  for  the  western 
district,  Judge  Irwin  for  the  middle,  and  Judge  Frazier,  of  Pennsylvania, 
for  the  eastern.  Judge  Frazier  arrived  in  Milwaukie  on  a  Sunday  evening, 
in  June,  1837.  He  put  up  at  the  small  hotel  which  stood  where  '  Dicker- 
man's  Block  '  now  stands,  which  was  called  the  *******  Tavern,  kept 
by  Mr.  Vail.  On  his  arrival,  he  fell  in  with  some  old  Kentucky  friends,  who 
invited  him  to  a  private  room,  for  the  purpose  of  participating  in  an  inno 
cent  game  of  'poker.'  The  party  consisted  of  the  ju<}ge,  Col.  Morton,  regis 
ter  of  the  land  office,  and  two  or  three  others — friends  of  the  judge.  They 
commenced  playing  for  small  sums  at  first,  but  increased  them  as  the  hours 
passed,  until  the  dawn  of  day,  the  next  morning — when  small  sums  seemed 
beneath  their  notice.  The  first  approach  of  day  was  heralded  to  them  by 
the  ringing  of  the  bell  for  breakfast.  The  judge  made  a  great  many  apolo 
gies,  saying,  among  other  things,  that  as  that  was  his  first  appearance  in  the 
territory,  and  as  his  court  opened  at  10  o'clock  that  morning,  he  must  have 
a  little  time  to  prepare  a  charge  to  the  grand  jury.  He  therefore  hoped  that 
they  would  excuse  him,  which  they  accordingly  did,  and  he  withdrew  from 
the  party.  The  court  met  at  the  appointed  hour — Owen  Aldrich  acting  as 
sheriff,  and  Cyrus  Hawley  as  clerk.  The  grand  jury  was  called  and  sworn. 


WISCONSIN.  431 

The  judge,  with  much  dignity,  commenced  his  charge ;  and  never  before  did 
we  hear  such  a  charge  poured  forth  from  the  bench !  After  charging  them 
upon  the  laws  generally,  he  alluded  to  the  statute  against  gambling.  The 
English  language  is  too  barren  to  describe  his  abhorrence  of  that  crime. 
Among  other  extravagances,  he  said,  that  'a  gambler  was  unfit  for  earth, 
heaven,  or  hell,'  and  that  'God  Almighty  would  even  shudder  at  the  sight 
of  one.' 

At  that  time,  we  had  but  one  session  of  the  legislature,  which  had  adopted 
mostly  the  statutes  of  Michigan,  which  allowed  the  court  to  exercise  its  dis 
cretion  in  granting  stays  of  executions,  etc.  A  suit  came  up  against  a  man 
in  the  second  ward,  who  had  no  counsel.  The  judge  ordered  the  crier  to  call 
the  defendant.  He  did  so,  and  the  defendant  appeared.  The  judge  asked 
him  if  he  had  anything  to  say  against  judgment  being  rendered  against  him. 
He  replied,  that  he  did  not  know  that  he  had,  as  it  was  an  honest  debt,  but 
that  he  was  unable  to  pay  it.  ,  The  judge  inquired  what  his  occupation  was. 
He  replied  that  he  was  a  fisherman.  Says  the  judge,  iOanyoupay  in  fish?' 
The  defendant  answered,  that  'he  did  not  know  but  he  could,  if  he  had  time 
to  catch  them.'  The  judge  turned  to  the  clerk,  and  ordered  him  to  'enter  up 
a  judgment,  payable  in  fish,  and  grant  a  stay  of  execution  for  twelve 
months ; '  at  the  same  time  remarking  to  the  defendant,  that  he  must  surely 
pay  it  at  the  time,  and  in  good  fish ;  for  he  would  not  be  willing  to  wait  so 
long  for  'stinking  fish.'  The  next  suit  worthy  of  note,  was  against  Wm.  M. 
Dennis,  our  present  bank  comptroller.  He,  like  his  predecessor,  had  no 
counsel.  His  name  was  called,  and  he  soon  made  his  appearance.  He  en 
tered  the  court-room,  wearing  his  usual  smile,  whittling,  with  his  knife  in 
the  left  hand.  The  court  addressed  him  in  a  loud  voice,  ;What  are  you 
grinning  about,  Mr.  Dennis?'  Mr.  D.  replied,  that  he  was  not  aware  that  he 
was  laughing.  The  court  inquired  if  he  proposed  to  offer  any  defense?  He 
replied,  that  he  did,  but  was  not  ready  for  trial.  'No  matter,'  said  the  judge, 
'there's  enough  that  are  ready;  the  clerk  will  enter  it 'continued."  The 
next  case,  about  which  we  recollect,  was  the  trial  of  two  Indians,  who  were 
indicted  for  murdering  a  man  on  Rock  River.  They  were  also  indicted  for 
an  assault,  with  intent  to  kill,  upon  another  man,  at  the  same  time.  The 
trial  for  murder  came  off  first.  They  were  found  guilty,  and  sentenced  to 
be  hanged.  On  the  day  following,  they  were  tried  for  the  assault,  etc.,  found 
guilty,  and  sentenced  to  five  years'  imprisonment,  and  to  pay  a  fine  of  five 
hundred  dollars  each.  Governor  Dodge,  however,  deeming  it  too  severe  to 
fine  and  imprison  a  man  after  he  was  hanged,  commuted  it  to  imprisonment 
for  life.  The  Indians  were  confined  in  jail  a  year  or  two,  but  were  finally 
pardoned  by  the  governor. 

Judge  Frazier  soon  afterward  went  to  Green  Bay,  and  held  a  court,  from 
whence,  for  want  of  a  jail  in  which  to  confine  prisoners,  he  sentenced  a  man, 
for  some  trifling  offense,  'to  be  banished  to  Turkey  River.'  After  the  court 
adjourned,  he  returned  to  Milwaukie  on  the  steamboat  Pennsylvania.  She 
anchored  in  the  bay,  and  the  judge,  who  was  dead  drunk  at  the  time,  was 
lowered  by  means  of  a  tackle  into  a  boat,  and  rowed  to  the  landing  at 
Walker's  Point.  From  the  effect  of  this  bacchanalian  revel  he  never  recov 
ered.  His  friend,  Col.  Morton,  took  him  to  his  own  house,  called  to  his  aid 
our  best  physicians,  and  all  was  done  that  human  skill  could  devise,  for  the 
restoration  of  his  health ;  but  it  was  too  late;  the  seeds  of  death  had  been 
sown;  he  lingered  in  great  distress  for  four  or  five  days,  and  breathed 
his  last.  The  members  of  the  bar,  generally,  neglected  to  attend  the 


432  WISCONSIN. 

funeral ;  and  having  no  relatives  in  the  state,  he  hardly  received  a  decent 
'burial." 


Green  Bay,  the  county  seat  of  Brown  county,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Fox  River,  at  the  head  of  Green  Bay,*  120  miles  N.E.  from  Madison,  and 
114  N.  of  Milwaukie.  It  is  the  oldest  town  in  Wisconsin,  and  occupies  an 
important  location.  It  has  a  good  harbor,  and  is  an  important  place  of  de 
posit  and  transit  for  the  imports  and  exports  of  northern  Wisconsin.  It  is  a 
great  lumber  mart,  immense  quantities  being  annually  exported.  The  town 
has  a  beautiful  situation,  and  contains  several  spacious  warehouses,  fine 
churches,  and  elegant  residences.  By  the  canal  between  Fox  and  Wisconsin 
Rivers,  there  is  steam  navigation  between  Green  Bay  and  the  Mississippi 
River.  Fort  Howard,  named  from  Gov.  Benj.  Howard,  of  Missouri,  is  on 
the  west  side  of  Fox  River,  on  a  commanding  eminence.  Population  about 
4,000. 

About  1745,  the  Sieur  AUGUSTIN  DE  LANGLADE,  his  son  CHARLES,  and 
probably  some  others,  left  Mackinaw  and  migrated  to  Green  Bay,  where  they 
became  the  principal  proprietors  of  the  soil.  They  settled  on  the  east  side 
of  Fox  River,  near  its  mouth,  somewhat  above  and  opposite  the  old  French 
post,  and  on  or  near  the  site  of  the  residence  of  Judge  Arndt,  at  the  upper 
end  of  Green  Bay.  At  this  time  there  appears  to  have  been  a  small  French 
garrison  here,  of  whom  Capt.  De  Velie  was  commander.  Such  was  the  in 
fluence  of  Charles  De  Langlade,  that  he  was  appointed,  by  Vaudreuil,  the 
governor  of  Canada,  to  command  the  border  forces  of  the  French  and  In 
dians  in  the  north-west,  and  it  was  by  his  management  that  the  British  were 
defeated  and  Gen.  Braddock  slain  at  Du  Quesne,  or  Pittsburg,  in  1755. 
Langlade  was  also  at  the  capture  of  Fort  William  Henry,  and  also  at  the 
battle  of  Quebec,  where  Montcalm  was  killed.  He  received  a  pension  from 
the  British  government,  for  his  services  in  the  American  Revolution.  He 
died  at  Green  Bay,  in  Jan.,  1800,  at  the  age  of  75,  and  was  buried  by  the 
side  of  his  father,  in  the  cemetery  at  this  place. 

The  Green  Bay  settlement,  from  its  inception  in  1745  to  1785,  a  period  of 
forty  years,  made  but  little  progress.  Mr.  Grignon,  in  his  "Recollections," 
published  by  the  State  Historical  Society,  says,  "in  1785,  there  were  but 
seven  families,  who,  with  their  engages  and  others,  did  not  exceed  fifty-six 
souls."  In  1792,  Charles  Reaume  arrived  and  took  up  his  residence  at  the 
Bay.  About  this  period  others  began  to  arrive,  almost  invariably  from  Can 
ada.  About  the  year  1812,  the  population  amounted  to  nearly  250  persons. 
Previous  to  the  advent  of  the  Americans,  in  1816,  there  were  no  schools. 
The  earliest  mill  erected  in  the  country  was  by  Jacob  Franks,  about  the  year 
1809.  He  first  built  a  saw  mill,  then  a  grist  mill,  on  Devil  River,  three 
miles  east  of  Depere.  Previous  to  this,  grinding  was  done  by  hand  mills. 
In  the  summer  of  1816,  a  body  of  American  troops  were  sent  to  Green  Bay, 
in  three  schooners,  where  they  arrived  about  the  16th  of  July.  Grignon,  in 
his  Recollections,,  says: 

"  Col.  Miller,  the  commander,  the  very  day  of  his  arrival,  accompanied  by  Col. 

*  Green  Bay,  which  gives  name  to  the  town,  is  an  arm  of  Lake  Michigan,  of  about  100 
miles  in  length,  and  from  10  to  15  in  breadth.  The  name,  Green,  was  given  by  the  early 
explorers,  and  it  is  supposed,  from  this  fact,  that  they  must  have  visited  it  in  the  spring, 
and  have  found  the  vegetation  of  the  shores  of  the  bay  far  in  advance  of  other  parts  of  the 
country,  as  is  now  sometimes  the  case,  the  trees  being  clothed  with  young  leaves,  rich  in 
the  velvet  green  of  spring,  while  far  to  the  south,  even  as  low  as  the  latitude  of  the  south 
end  of  Lake  Huron,  all  nature  is  in  the  cold  sombre  hues  of  winter. 


WISCONSIN. 

Chambers,  Maj.  Gratiot,  Capt.  Ben.  O'Fallon,  and  other  officers,  visited  Tomah  at 
his  villnge,  less  than  half  a  mile  distant  Col.  Miller  asked  the  consent  of  the 
Menomonees  for  the  erection  of  a  fort.  Tomah  said: 

'  My  Brother!  How  can  we  oppose  your  locating  a  council-fire  among  us?  You  are 
too  strong  for  us.  Even  if  we  wanted  to  oppose  you,  we  have  scarcely  got  powder  and 
shot  to  make  the  attempt.  One  favor  we  ask  is,  that  our  French  brothers  shall  not  he  dis 
turbed  or  in  any  way  molested.  You  can  choose  any  place  you  please  for  your  fort,  and 
we  shall  not  object.' 

Col.  Miller  thanked  him  and  his  people  for  their  friendly  consent  to  his  request, 
and  added  that  he  had  some  spare  provisions,  and  supposed  a  little  pork  and  flour 
would  not  hurt  him,  as  they  seemed  to  be  scarce  articles  with  the  Indians,  and  in 
vited  him  to  call  and  get  a  supply.  Some  of  the  Indians  prompted  Tomah  to  ask 
their  new  father  for  a  little  broth  also.  Tomah  expressed  his  thanks  for  Col.  Mil 
ler's  kind  offers,  and  added  that  he  and  his  people  would  be  very  glad  to  have,  if 
possible,  a  little  broth  to  use  with  the  pork  and  flour.  Col.  Miller  said,  that  although 
it  was  contrary  to  orders,  he  would  take  it  upon  himself  to  give  them  a  little — 
enough  for  a  dram  apiece,  and  hoped  they  would  be  moderate  in  its  use. 

The  people  of  Green  Bay  were  generally  well  pleased  with  the  advent  of  the 
Americans,  a  home  market  was  furnished  for  their  surplus  provisions,  and  a  new 
impetus  was  given  to  the  settlement.  Vessels  now  began  to  arrive  with  supplies 
for  the  garrison,  and  we  began  to  experience  the  benefits  and  convenience  of  lake 
commerce  and  navigation." 

We  continue  the  history  of  Green  Bay  from  the  Recollections  of  Hon. 
Henry  S.  Baird.  The  article  is  valuable  as  a  vivid  description  of  the  man 
ners  and  customs  of  these  early  French  settlers  of  Wisconsin : 

In  the  month  of  July,  1824, 1  first  landed  upon  the  shores  of  the  Fox  River.  In 
September  following,  I  came  with  my  wife  from  Mackinaw,  having  resided  at  the 
latter  place  for  two  years  previously.  My  knowledge  of  the  early  history  of  the 
state  commenced  at  that  period,  and  has  continued  uninterrupted  until  the  present 
time. 

In  1824,  Green  Bay,  as  well  as  the  entire  country,  presented  a  far  different  view 
from  its  present  appearance.  Old  Fort  Howard  then  occupied  its  present  site. 
The  grounds  around  it  were  used  mostly  for  fields  of  grain  and  gardens.  A  portion 
of  the  present  town  of  Fort  Howard  was  used  by  the  troops  as  a  parade  and  drill 
ground.  The  garrison  consisted  of  four  companies  of  the  third  regiment  of  United 
States  Infantry,  and  commanded  by  the  late  Gen.  John  McNiel,  the  brother-in-law 
of  ex-President  Pierce.  The  a  settlement,"  so-called,  extended  from  Fort  Howard 
on  the  east,  and  from  the  premises  now  occupied  by  our  venerable  fellow-citizen, 
Judge  Arndt,  on  the  east  side  of  Fox  River,  to  the  present  village  of  Depere,  then 
known  as  Rapide  des  Peres.  The  lands  on  either  side  of  the  river  were  divided 
into -small  farms,  or  more  particularly  known  to  the  old  settlers  as  "claims." 
These  claims  are  limited  in  width,  generally  from  two  to  seven  arpents,  or  French 
acres,  but  what  they  lacked  in  width  they  made  up  in  depth,  being  on  the  average 
eighty  arpents,  or  about  two  and  three  quarter  miles  long,  and  contained  from  one 
hundred  to  six  hundred  and  forty  acres  each.  Like  those  at  St.  Louis,  Kaskaskia, 
Detroit,  Prairie  du  Chien  and  other  early  settlements,  these  claims  were  generally 
"  squatted  "  upon  by  traders  and  early  pioneers,  but  were  subsequently,  by  a  series 
of  acts  of  congress,  "confirmed"  and  granted  to  the  occupants  on  certain  condi 
tions.  Their  peculiar  shape  of  "  all  long  and  no  wide,"  has  often  been  a  matter  of 
wonder  to  the  shrewd  Yankees,  who  love  to  have  their  farms  in  a  square  form,  and 
take  it  all  in  at  one  view.  Many  laugh  at  what  they  deem  the  folly  and  short 
sightedness  of  the  old  settlers  in  thus  limiting  their  locations.  But  when  apprised 
of  the  reasons  which  induced  this  manner  of  location,  they  may  cease  to  marvel. 
In  my  opinion,  the  reasons  were  two-fold  :  first,  security  against  the  hostile  attacks 
to  be  apprehended  from  the  native  Indians,  who  were  the  sole  occupants  and  pro 
prietors  of  the  country  in  the  early  years  of  its  settlement  by  the  traders,  and 
whose  passions  were  often  inflamed  by  jealousy  and  hatred  of  the  whites  in  their 
encroachments  upon  the  soil  and  freedom  of  the  original  owners.  It  is  evident 
that  it  would  be  much  easier  to  repel  attack  by  a  speedy  union  of  the  whites  thud 

28 


434  WISCONSIN. 

living  in  close  proximity  to  each  other,  and  concentrating  their  whole  force  and 
means  of  defense,  at  some  eligible  point  of  security,  than  it  would  have  been  if 
living  in  spots  remote  and  scattered  over  a  large  extent  of  country.  Another  rea 
son  was,  that  in  those  days  the  traders  or  whites  who  settled  in  the  country  were 
not  influenced  by  the  same  motive  of  cupidity  that  governs  the  "  squatters  "  or 
"  claimants  "  of  the  present  day,  in  the  desire  to  acquire  large  landed  possessions, 
But  few  of  those  who  came  into  the  country  at  that  early  period,  say  about  ono 
hundred  years  ago,  designed  to  make  it  their  permanent  abode.  Their  principal 
object  was  to  traffic  with  the  Indians,  and  to  obtain  the  rich  furs  and  peltries,  with 
which  this  whole  region  then  abounded.  Agriculture  and  the  cultivation  of  the 
soil  were,  with  them,  secondary  considerations.  But  very  small  portions  of  the 
small  tracts  of  land  thus  occupied  by  the  adventurers  were  cultivated  by  them. 
Small  patches  of  Indian  corn,  a  few  acres  of  potatoes  or  other  vegetables,  scattered 
here  and  there  through  the  settlement,  comprised  the  farming  interest  of  the  coun 
try  ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  arrival  of  more  enterprising  and  grasping  settlers,  the 
keen  and  speculating  Americans  (a  class  feared  and  hated  by  the  former  class), 
that  these  claims  were  considered  of  any  value,  or  worth  the  trouble  and  expense 
of  obtaining  titles  to  them. 

As  before  stated,  the  "settlement"  at  this  place  extended  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  from  Fort  Howard  to  Depere,  a  distance  of  about  six  miles,  here  and  there 
interspersed  with  patches  of  timber,  the  cultivated  land  extending  back  from  the 
river  but  a  few  acres.  Beyond  Depere,  south  or  west,  there  was  no  white  settle 
ments  for  many  years,  except  two  or  three  families  at  the  Grand  Kaukauna,  until 
we  reached  Prairie  du  Chien,  on  the  Mississippi  River,  and  distant  about  250  miles ; 
where  was  a  garrison  of  United  States  troops,  and  a  few  hundred  inhabitants.  All 
north,  east  or  west  of  Green  Bay  was  a  dense  forest,  an  unbroken  wilderness,  peo 
pled  only  by  the  red  man,  and  roamed  by  wild  beasts.  Depere,  or  rather  "  Kapide 
des  Peres,"  is  supposed  to  be  the  spot  first  located  by  the  Jesuits  or  early  mission 
aries,  in  or  about  the  year  1671.*  An  old  building,  formerly  occupied  by  these 
Reverend  Fathers,  was  situated  very  near  the  spot  on  which  now  stands  the  new 
grist  mill  of  Messrs.  Wilcox  &  Wager.  I  frequently  visited  the  spot,  and  the  old 
foundation  of  the  venerable  edifice  was  visible  for  some  time  after  I  came  here, 
and  until,  in  cultivating  the  ground,  the  stones  were  removed  or  covered  over. 
The  trade  and  business  of  the  settlement  was  principally  carried  on  at  what  was 
then  called  by  the  unpretending  and  not  very  pleasing  name  of  "  Shanty  Town." 
Three  or  four  stores  were  located  at  this  point,  and  together  with  the  sutler  store 
at  Fort  Howard,  and  two  or  three  at  other  places  in  the  settlement,  supplied  the  wants 
of  the  community.  In  addition  to  the  "regular  merchants"  were  several  fur 
traders,  who  carried  on  a  regular  traffic  with  the  Indians ;  but  these  had  no  per 
manent  places  of  trade  here.  In  the  autumn  of  each  year,  they  received,  either 
from  Mackinaw  (then  the  great  depot  and  head-quarters  of  the  American  Fur  Com 
pany),  or  from  Canada,  their  "outfit"  of  goods  and  merchandise,  consisting  of  ar 
ticles  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  natives,  and  departed  for  their  distant  "  winter 
ing  grounds,"  situated  in  the  wilderness.  The  principal  trading  posts,  at  that 
period,  in  northern  Wisconsin,  were  the  following:  Milwaukie,  Sheboygan,  and 
Manitowoc,  on  Lake  Michigan;  Menomonee  River,  Peshtigo  and  Oconto,  on  Green 
Bay  ;  Fond  du  Lac,  Calumet,  and  Oshkosh,  on  Winnebago  Lake ;  Wolf  River,  Lake 
Shawano,  and  the  Portage  of  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin.  At  all  of  these  points  In 
dian  villages  were  located,  and  it  is  a  remarkable  feature  in  the  settlement  of  Wis 
consin,  that  all  or  nearly  all  of  the  principal  cities,  towns  and  villages  which  now 
in  all  directions  meet  our  view,  were  originally  sites  of  Indian  villages;  showing  that 
to  the  sagacity  and  foresight  of  the  aborigines,  rather  than  to  the  judgment  and  dis 
crimination  of  the  whites,  are  we  indebted  for  the  beautiful  and  eligible  locations 
!  of  the  towns  throughout  the  state. 

These  traders  conveyed  the  goods,  which,  however,  were  not  all  dry  goods,  in 
boats  called  batteaux,  being  of  light  draught  of  water,  and  constructed  so  as  to 
meet  with  the  least  opposition  from  the  current  in  rapids  or  swift  streams,  or  in 

*  The  Mission  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  at  DePere,  was  established  in  1669 :  See  Jesuit  Re 
lations,  1669-70;  Shea's  Hist.  Catholic  Missions;  Smith's  Hist.  Wisconsin. 


WISCONSIN.  435 

birch  bark  canoes,  which  latter  were  constructed  by  the  Indians.  The  boat  or 
canoe  was  manned,  according  to  size  and  capacity,  by  a  crew  consisting  of  from 
four  to  ten  Canadian  voyageurs,  or  by  half-bloods,  their  descendants.  This  class, 
which  once  occupied  so  prominent  a  position  in  the  early  recollections  of  the 
times,  but  which  has  now  nearly  disappeared  from  the  country  they  were  the  first 
to  visit,  deserves  a  passing  notice.  The  Canadian  voyageurs,  as  the  name  indicates, 
came  originally  from  Canada,  principally  from  Quebec  and  Montreal.  They  were 
employed  by  the  principal  traders,  under  written  contracts,  executed  in  Canada, 
for  a  term  of  from  three  to  five  years — their  wages  from  two  hundred  and  fifty 
livres  (fifty  dollars)  to  seven  hundred  and  fifty  livres  (one  hundred  and  fifty  dol 
lars)  per  year,  to  which  was  added  what  was  termed  an  "outfit,"  consisting  of  a 
Mackinaw  blanket,  two  cotton  shirts,  a  capote  or  loose  sack  coat,  two  pairs  of  coarse 
pants,  shoes  and  socks,  and  some  other  small  articles,  including  soap.  Their  food, 
when  in  the  "wintering  ground,"  consisted,  for  the  greater  portion  of  the  time,  of 
corn  and  tallow,  occasionally  enriched  by  a  piece  of  fat  pork — or  venison  and  bear 
meat,  when  they  happened  to  be  plenty ;  yet  with  this  spare  and  simple  diet,  they 
were  healthy  and  always  cheerful  and  happy.  Their  powers  of  endurance  were 
astonishing.  They  would  row  or  paddle  all  day,  and  when  necessary  would  carry 
on  their  backs,  suspended  by  a  strap  or  band  crossing  their  breast  or  foreheaa, 
large  packs  of  furs  or  merchandise,  weighing  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred 
and  thirty  pounds,  for  whole  days,  and  when  night  came,  enjoyed  their  frugal  meal 
and  joined  in  merry  jokes,  recounted  stories  of  their  many  hair-breadth  escapes 
by  "  flood  and  forest,  or  perhaps  joined  in  the  dance  to  the  music  of  the  violin, 
if  among  their  companions  any  were  capable  of  "sawing  sweet  sounds."  In  the 
spring  of  the  year,  they  returned  to  the  settlements  or  principal  trading-posts,  to 
spend  the  summer  months  in  comparative  ease,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  pas 
times  and  frolics  they  so  highly  prized.  Always  improvident,  open-hearted  and 
convivial,  they  saved  nothing,  nor  thought  of  the  wants  of  the  future,  but  spent 
freely  the  whole  of  their  hard-earned  and  scanty  wages  in  a  few  weeks  of  their 
stay  among  their  friends,  and  again  returned  in  the  fall  to  pass  through  the  same 
routine  of  toil,  hardship,  and  privation.  Intermarriages  frequently  took  place  be 
tween  them  and  the  native  women.  These  marriages  were  encouraged  by  the 
traders,  as  it  not  only  increased  the  influence  of  the  traders  and  their  engagees  over 
the  Indians,  but  was  the  means  of  securing  their  trade,  bound  the  men  more  closely 
to  the  country,  and  insured  their  continuance  in  the  fur  trade,  with  which  they 
had  then  become  familiar.  The  half-bloods  were  the  descendants  of  the  early 
vcyageurs,  and  in  character  and  manners  closely  resembled  their  sires. 

The  commerce  of  the  country  was  carried  on  through  the  medium  of  a  few  sail 
vessels  plying  between  this  place  and  the  ports  on  Lake  Erie.  These  vessels  were 
generally  of  from  twenty-five  to  seventy  tuns  burden.  Occasionally,  perhaps  once 
or  twice  in  the  season  of  navigation,  a  steamer  from  Buffalo  would  look  in  upon 
us;  but  these  were  for  different  in  structure  and  capacity  from  the  splendid  "  float 
ing  palaces"  which  have  visited  our  waters  in  later  years.  All  kinds  of  provisions 
and  supplies  were  brought  here  from  Ohio  and  Michigan,  and  the  inhabitants  were 
solely  dependent  upon  those  states  for  everything  like  provisions,  except  a  limited 
quantity  of  grain  and  vegetables  raised  by  the  miserable  farmers  of  the  country. 

The  buildings  and  improvements  in  the  country  were  then  few,  and  circumscribed 
within  a  narrow  compass,  and  in  a  great  degree  partook  of  the  unpretending  and 
simple  character  of  their  occupants.  Some  constructed  of  rough  or  unhewn  logs, 
covered  with  cedar  bark,  here  and  there  a  sprinkling  of  lodges  or  wigwams,  formed 
by  long  poles  stuck  in  the  ground  in  a  circular  form,  and  brought  together  and 
united  at  the  top  by  a  cord,  thus  forming  an  inclosure  perhaps  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  covered  with  large  mats  composed  of  a  kind  of 
reed  or  grass,  called  by  the  Indians  "Puckaway."  The  mode  of  ingress  and  eirreH* 
was  by  raising  a  smaller  mat,  covering  an  aperture  left  in  the  side  for  that  purpose. 
Light  was  admitted  from  the  top  of  the  structure,  through  an  opening  which  served 
as  well  to  emit  the  smoke  from  the  fire,  which  was  made  directly  in  the  center  of 
the  habitation,  'these  wigwams  were  sometimes  occupied  by  families  of  the  half- 
blood  Canadians  and  Indians,  sometimes  by  the  natives. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  settlement,  exclusive  of  the  native  Indians,  were  mostly 


436  WISCONSIN. 

Canadian  French,  and  those  of  mixed  blood.  There  were,  in  1824,  at  Green  Bay, 
but  six  or  eight  resident  American  families,  and  the  families  of  the  officers  sta 
tioned  at  Fort  Howard,  in  number  about  the  same.  The  character  of  the  people 
was  a  compound  of  civilization  and  primitive  simplicity — exhibiting  the  polite  and 
lively  characteristics  of  the  French  and  the  thoughtlessness  and  improvidence  of 
the  aborigines.  Possessing  the  virtues  of  hospitality  and  the  warmth  of  heart 
unknown  to  residents  of  cities,  untrammeled  by  the  etiquette  and  conventional 
rules  of  modern  "  high  life,"  they  were 'ever  ready  to  receive  and  entertain  their 
friends,  and  more  intent  upon  the  enjoyment  of  the  present  than  to  lay  up  store 
or  make  provision  for  the  future.  With  few  wants,  and  contented  and  happy  hearts, 
they  found  enjoyment  in  the  merry  dance,  the  sleigh-ride,  and  the  exciting  horse 
race,  and  doubtless  experienced  more  true  happiness  and  contentment  than  the 
plodding,  calculating  and  money-seeking  people  of  the  present  day.  This  was  the 
character  of  the  settlers  who  occupied  this  country  before  the  arrival  of  the  Yan 
kees — a  class  now  entirely  extinct  or  lost  sight  of  by  the  present  population ;  but 
it  is  one  which  unites  the  present  with  the  past,  and  for  whom  the  uold  settlers" 
entertain  feelings  of  veneration  and  respect.  They  deserve  to  be  remembered  and 
placed  on  the  pages  of  history  as  the  first  real  pioneers  of  Wisconsin.  Several  of 
these  persons  have  left  descendants  who  still  survive  them;  and  the  names  of  Lawe, 
Grignon,  Juneau,  Porlier,  and  others  of  that  class,  will  survive  and  serve  as  me 
morials  of  the  old  race  of  settlers,  long  after  the  last  of  the  present  generation  shall 
have  been  "gathered  to  their  fathers." 

During  the  early  years  of  my  residence  here,  the  social  circle,  although  limited, 
was  by  no  means  insignificant.  It  was  composed  of  the  families  of  the  garrison 
and  the  Americans,  and  several  of  the  "old  settlers."  If  it  was  small,  it  was  also 
united  by  the  ties  of  friendship  and  good  feeling.  Free  from  the  formalities  and 
customs  which  are  observed  by  the  ton  of  the  present  day,  we  met  to  enjoy  our 
selves,  more  like  members  of  one  family  than  as  strangers.  The  young  people  of  that 
period  (and  all  felt  young  then)  would  assemble  on  a  few  hours'  notice  at  the  house 
of  a  neighbor,  without  form  or  ceremony.  Young  ladies  were  then  expected  to 
appear  at  an  early  hour  in  the  evening,  and  not  at  the  usual  hour  of  retiring  to 
rest,  nor  were  they  required  to  appear  in  either  court  or  fancy  dresses.  The  merry 
dance  succeeded,  and  all  enjoyed  themselves  until  an  early  hour  in  the  morning. 
One  custom  prevailed  universally,  among  all  classes,  even  extending  to  the  Indians  : 
that  of  devoting  the  holidays  to  festivity  and  amusement,  but  especially  that  of 
"calling"  on  New  Year's  day.  This  custom  was  confined  to  no  class  in  particu 
lar;  all  observed  it;  and  many  met  on  New  Year  who  perhaps  did  not  again  meet 
till  the  next.  All  then  shook  hands  and  exchanged  mutual  good  wishes — all  old 
animosities  were  forgotten — all  differences  settled,  and  universal  peace  established. 
May  this  good  old  custom  be  long  observed,  and  handed  down  to  future  genera 
tions  as  a  memento  of  the  good  olden  time.  During  the  winter  season,  Green  Bay 
.vas  entirely  insulated.  Cut  off  from  communication  with  all  other  parts  of  the 
civilized  world,  her  inhabitants  were  left  to  their  own  resources  for  nearly  half  the 
year.  Our  mails  were  "  few  and  far  between,"  sometimes  but  once  a  month — never 
more  than  twice,  did  we  receive  them,  so  that  the  news  when  received  here  was  no 
longer  new.  The  mails  were  carried  on  a  man's  shoulders  from  Chicago  to  Green 
Bay,  through  the  wilderness,  a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and 
could  not  contain  a  very  great  quantity  of  interesting  reading  matter.  Under  such 
circumstances  it  became  necessary  that  we  should  devise  some  means  to  enliven 
our  time,  and  we  did  so  accordingly;  and  I  look  back  upon  those  years  as  among 
the  most  agreeable  in  my  life. 

The  country,  at  that  early  day,  was  destitute  of  roads  or  places  of  public  enter 
tainment — nothing  but  the  path,  or  "  Indian  trail,"  traversed  the  wide  expanse  of 
forest  and  prairie  from  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Mississippi,  and  the  travel  by  land 
was  performed  on  foot  or  horseback ;  but  there  was  then  another  mode  of  locomo 
tion,  very  generally  adopted  by  those  who  took  long  journeys — now  become  obso 
lete,  and  which  would  doubtless  be  laughed  at  by  the  present  "fast  going"  genera 
tion — that  of  the  Indian  or  bark  canoe.  I  will  not  take  time  to  describe  the  vessel, 
as  most  of  you  have  doubtless  seen  such,  and  perhaps  many,  now  present,  have 
taken  voyages  in  these  frail  barks.  The  canoe  was  used  in  all  cases  where  coin- 


WISCONSIN. 


fort  and  expedition  were  desired.  You  may  smile  at  the  use  of  the  terms  "  com 
fort  and  expedition,"  where  the  traveler  sat  cooped  up  all  day  in  a  space  about  four 
feet  square,  and  at  night  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  stream,  cooked  his  own 
supper,  and  slept  on  the  ground,  with  no  covering  but  a  tent  and  blanket,  or,  often 
times,  nothing  but  the  wide  canopy  of  heaven—  having,  after  a  day  of  toil  and  la 
bor  by  his  crew,  accomplished  a  journey  of  thirty  to  forty  miles  !  But  these  jour 
neys  were  not  destitute  of  interest.  The  voyageur  was  enlivened  by  the  merry 
song  of  his  light-hearted  and  ever  happy  Canadian  crew  —  his  eye  delighted  by  the 
constant  varying  scenery  of  the  country  through  which  he  passed  —  at  liberty  to 
select  a  spot  for  his  encampment,  and  to  stop  when  fatigued  with  the  day's  travel 
—  and,  above  all,  free  from  care  and  from  the  fearful  apprehensions  of  all  modern 
travelers  on  railroads  and  steamboats,  that  of  being  blown  up,  burned,  or  drowned. 
I  can  better  illustrate  this  early  mode  of  travel,  by  giving  an  account  of  a  "  party 

of  pleasure,"  undertaken  and 
accomplished  by  myself.  In 
May,  1830,  being  obliged  to 
go  on  the  annual  circuit  to 
Prairie  du  Chien,  to  attend 
court,  I  concluded  to  make  it 
a  matter  of  pleasure  as  well 
as  business.  I  accordingly 
obtained  a  good  sized  and  sub 
stantial  north-west  bark  canoe 
—  about  five  fathoms,  or  thirty 
feet,  in  length,  and  five  feet 
wide  in  the  center  —  a  good 
tent,  or  "  markee,"  together 
with  mattresses,  blankets, 
bedding,  mess  basket,  and  all 
other  things  required  as  an 
"outfit"  on  such  expeditions. 
The  party  consisted  of  my 
wife,  self,  two  small  children, 
two  young  ladies  as  compan 
ions,  and  a  servant  girl;  my  crew,  of  four  Canadians  —  experienced  men  and  good 
singers  —  and  two  Menomonee  Indians,  as  bow  and  steersmen.  The  canoe  was 
propelled  both  by  oars  and  paddles. 

We  ascended  the  Fox  River  to  Fort  Winnebago,  and  descended  the  Wisconsin  to 
the  Mississippi,  and  thence  up  the  latter  four  miles  to  Prairie  du  Chien.  The  voyage 
occupied  eight  or  nine  days  in  going,  and  about  the  same  length  of  time  in  return 
ing  —  during  which  the  ladies'  "camped  out"  every  night  save  two.  They  did  all 
the  cooking  and  household  work;  the  former  was  no  small  item  —  for,  with  appetites 
sharpened  by  pure  air  and  exercise,  and  with  abundance  of  fresh  venison,  with 
fowl  and  fish,  to  satisfy  them,  the  quantity  of  viands  consumed  by  the  party  would 
have  astonished  modern  epicures,  and  perhaps  shock  the  delicate  tastes  of  city 
belles.  We  frequently  encamped  early  in  the  afternoon  —  at  some  spot  which  at 
tracted  our  attention  from  its  natural  beauty,  or  romantic  appearance  —  and  strolled 
along  the  bank  of  the  stream,  plucking  beautiful  wild  flowers,  which  abounded,  or 
clambering  up  some  high  bluff  or  commanding  headland,  obtained  a  view  of  the 
surrounding  country,  and  traced  the  meandering  stream  through  its  high  banks, 
far  in  the  distance.  It  was  in  the  merry  month  of  May,  when  the  forest  was 
clothed  in  its  deepest  verdure  —  the  hills  and  prairies  redolent  with  flowers,  and 
the  woods  tenanted  by  melodious  songsters.  It  was  truly  a  "  trip  of  pleasure  "  and 
enjoyment.  Many  trips  for  pleasure  have  been  undertaken,  where  the  parries  may 
have  experienced  the  refinements  and  accommodations,  and  enjoyed  the  luxuries 
to  be  found,  in  the  present  day,  in  old  and  long  settled  countries  —  but  I  believe 
few,  if  any,  realized  more  true  delight  and  satisfaction,  than  did  this  "Party  of 
Pleasure  in  a  Bark  Canoe.'7 

The  present  "State  of  Wisconsin,"  although  formerly  a  part  of  the  Territory  of 
Michigan,  was  for  many  years  rather  an  appendage  than  a  component  part  of  that 


THE  PORTAGE. 

The  engraving  represents  a  party  of  voyageurs  carrying  their 
bark  canoe  and  packing  their"  plunder  "  over  a  portage.  The 
term  "  portage  "  is  applied  to  those  points  where  the  canoes 
are  carried  by  land  around  rapids  or  other  obstructions  in  a 
river,  or  from  the  head-waters  of  one  stream  to  those  of  another, 
as  between  those  of  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin  Rivers. 


438 


WISCONSIN. 


territory.  Tn  1824,  things  had  assumed  a  more  orderly  and  regular  character ;  jus 
tice  was  administered  according  to  the  established  rules  and  practice  of  other 
states,  and  of  the  common  law.  But  in  the  subordinate,  or  justices'  courts,  many 
singular  incidents  transpired. 

1  happened  to  be  present  at  a  trial  which  took  place  in  a  justice's  court  in  Iowa 
county.  The  court  was  held  in  a  small  log  school-house.  The  suit  was  brought 
to  recover  the  amount  of  a  note  of  hand.  The  defendant  plead  either  payment  or 
want  of  consideration — each  party  had  employed  counsel,  and  a  jury  of  six  were 
impanneled  to  try  the  issue.  A  witness  was  called  and  sworn.  In  the  course  of  the 
examination,  one  of  the  counsel  objected  to  some  leading  question  put  by  the  opposite 
side,  or  to  some  part  of  the  witness'  answer  as  improper  testimony.  The  justice 
overruled  the  objection,  and  the  witness  proceeded;  but  ere  long  another  objection 
similar  to  the  first  was  made  from  the  same  side.  On  this  second  objection  being 
made,  the  foreman  of  the  jury,  a  large  and  portly  individual,  who  bore  the  title  of 
colonel,  and,  probably  owing  to  his  exalted  military  rank,  was  permitted  to  wear 
his  hat  during  the  trial,  manifested  a  good  deal  of  impatience,  shown  by  fidgeting 
in  his  seat  and  whispering  to  his  fellow  jurors;  but  the  justice  again  overruled  the 
objection  and  told  the  witness  to  proceed.  This  he  did  for  a  short,  time,  when  he 
made  a  statement  which  was  clearly  irrelevant  and  contrary  to  every  rule  of  evi 
dence  and  common  sense.  The  attorney  who  had  so  often  and  so  unsuccessfully 
attempted  to  exclude  this  sort  of  evidence,  could  no  longer  silently  submit — he 
again  rose  from  his  seat  and  most  respectfully  appealed  to  the  court,  protesting 
against  such  statements  going  to  the  jury  as  testimony.  Thereupon  the  worthy 
foreman  rose  from  his  seat,  and  swore  he  would  no  longer  sit  there  to  hear  the  ob 
jections  of  that  fellow.  That  he  had  taken  an  oath  as  a  juror,  to  decide  the  case 


Voyageur's  Camp. 

The  day's  toil  ended,  they  rest  from  labor. 

according  to  the  evidence,  and  if  he  could  not  hear  the  whole  story  from  the  wit 
ness,  he  should  leave.  Accordingly  he  made  several  strides  toward  the  door,  when 
the  justice  rose  from  the  bench,  and  approaching  the  juror,  placed  his  hand  upon 
the  colonel's  shoulder,  and  begged  that  he  should  return  to  his  seat,  promising  that 
the  troublesome  attorney  should  not  again  interfere.  After  some  persuasion,  ho • 
consented  to  do  so — at  the  same  time,  while  pressing  his  hat  more  firmly  upon  hia 


WISCONSIN.  4,j9 

head,  he  exclaimed,  "  Well,  I'll  try  it  once  more,  but if  I  will  stand  any  mor< 

•>f  that  fellow  s  nonsense."     The  attorney  gave  up  in  despair,  and  the  opposite 
had  it  all  his  own  way. 


South-western  mew  of  Madison, 

Shows  the  appearance  of  the  city,  as  seen  from  Washington -avenue,  near  the  railroad  station  ;  the  City 
Hall  appears  on  the  left ;  the  Court  House  on  the  right ;  the  Episcopal  Church,  State  Capitol,  the  Baptist 
and  Catholic  Churches  in  the  central  part. 

MADISON,  the  county  seat  of  Dane  county,  and  capital  of  Wisconsin,  is  80 
miles  W.  of  Milwaukie,  about  100  E.  from  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  154  N.W. 
of  Chicago.  It  is  generally  pronounced  to  possess  the  finest  natural  site  of 
any  inland  town  in  the  Union.  It  is  situated  on  rising  ground,  an  isthmus 
between  Third  and  Fourth  Lakes  of  the  chain  called  Four  Lakes.  "On  the 
northwest  is  Lake  Mendota,  nine  miles  long  and  six  wide;  on  the  east  Lake 
Monona,  five  miles  long  and  three  wide.  The  city  is  celebrated  for  the  beauty, 
health  and  pleasantness  of  its  location ;  commanding,  as  it  does,  a  view  of 
nearly  every  characteristic  of  country  peculiar  to  the  west — the  prairie,  oak 
opening,  mound,  lake,  and  woodland.  The  surface  of  the  ground  is  some 
what  uneven,  but  in  no  place  too  abrupt  for  building  purposes.  The  space 
between  these  lakes  is  a  mile  in  width,  rising  gently  as  it  leaves  their  banks 
to  an  altitude  of  about  seventy  feet,  and  is  then  alternately  depressed  and 
elevated,  making  the  site  of  the  city  a  series  of  gently  undulating  swells. 
On  the  most  elevated  ground  is  the  state  house,  a  fine  structure  of  limestone, 
in  the  center  of  one  of  Nature's  Parks  of  fifteen  acres,  overlooking  the 
"Four  Lakes"  and  the  surrounding  city.  From  this  the  streets  diverge  in 
every  direction,  with  a  gradual  descent  on  all  sides.  To  the  west,  about  a 
mile  distant,  is  the  State  University,  in  the  midst  of  a  park  of  40  acres, 
crowning  a  beautiful  eminence,  125  feet  above  the  lake.  This  institution  was 
founded  in  1848,  and  has  an  annual  income  of  $30,000.  On  the  south  side 
of  Lake  Monona  is  a  spacious  Water-Cure  establishment,  surrounded  by  an 
extensive  grove,  and  presenting  a  very  striking  appearance  on  approaching 


440  WISCONSIN. 

the  city.  Around  Madison,  in  every  direction,  is  a  well-cultivated,  and  beau 
tiful  undulating  country,  which  is  fast  being  occupied  by  pleasant  homes." 

Madison  possesses  many  handsome  buildings  and  several  churches  of  n 
superior  order.  Beside  the  State  University,  it  has  other  literary  institutions, 
male  and  female,  of  the  first  order,  about  20,000  volumes  in  its  public  libra 
ries,  and  is  generally  regarded  as  the  literary  emporium  of  the  state,  being 
the  point  for  the  assemblage  of  conventions  of  all  kinds,  and  a  favorite  re 
sort  for  the  literary  and  scientific  men  of  Wisconsin.  The  town  is  a  thriv 
ing  business  place,  and  has  ample  railroad  connections  with  all  parts  of  the 
country.  Population,  in  1860,  6,800. 

The  "STATE  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY  OF  WISCONSIN,"  organized  in  Madi 
son  in  1849,  is  the  most  valuable  and  flourishing  institution  of  the  kind  west 
of  the  Alleghanies.  By  an  act,  most  honorable  to  this  growing  state,  the 
sum  of  one  thousand  dollars  annually  has  been  granted  to  promote  its  ob 
jects.  This  society,  although  in  its  infancy,  has  already  secured  a  most  val 
uable  collection  of  books  and  papers ;  also  an  interesting  collection  of  orig 
inal  paintings  of  distinguished  men,  ancient  relics,  etc.  The  following  article 
upon  the  history  of  Madison,  is  from  the  pen  of  Lyman  C.  Draper,  Esq., 
Cor.  Sec.  Wisconsin  Historical  Society,  a  gentleman  who  has  probably  col 
lected  more  original  unpublished  materials  for  western  history,  than  any  per 
son  living  in  this  state  or  in  any  other: 

"The  site  of  Madison  attracted  the  attention  of  Hon.  James  D.  Doty,  as 
early  as  1832.  In  the  spring  of  1836,  in  company  with  Hon.  S.  T.  Mason, 
of  Detroit,  he  purchased  the  tract  of  land  occupied  by  the  present  city.  The 
first  cost  of  this  tract  was  about  $1,500.  The  territorial  legislature  which 
met  at  Belmont,  Lafayette  county,  the  next  winter,  passed  an  act  locating  the 
capital  here,  and  John  Catlin  and  Moses  M.  Strong  staked  out  the  center  of 
the  village  in  February  of  the  same  winter.  In  the  mean  time  commission 
ers  were  appointed  by  the  general  government,  to  construct  the  capitol  edi 
fice:  Messrs.  James  D.  Doty,  A.  A.  Bird,  and  John  F.  O'Neil,  were  the  com 
missioners.  Eben  Peck  was  sent  on  with  his  family  to  erect  a  house,  where 
the  men  employed  in  building  the  capitol  might  board  and  lodge,  and  was 
the  first  settler  at  Madison.  He  arrived  on  the  14th  of  April,  in  1837,  and 
put  up  a  log  house,  which  remains  standing  to  this  day,  upon  its  original 
site,  on  block  107,  Butler-street.  This  was,  for  about  a  year,  the  only  public 
house  in  Madison. 

On  the  10th  of  June  succeeding,  A.  A.  Bird,  the  acting  commissioner  for 
constructing  the  capitol,  accompanied  by  a  party  of  thirty-six  workmen,  ar 
rived.  There  was  no  road,  at  that  time,  from  Milwaukie  to  the  capital,  and 
the  party  were  compelled  to  nuke  one  for  their  teams  and  wagons  as  they 
came  along.  They  left  Milwaukie  on  the  1st  of  June,  with  four  teams.  It 
rained  incessantly,  the  ground,  drenched  with  water,  was  so  soft  that  even 
with  an  ordinary  road,  their  progress  would  have  been  slow,  but  when  to  this 
are  added  the  obstructions  of  fallen  trees,  unbridged  streams,  hills  whose 
steepness  labor  had  not  yet  mitigated,  and  the  devious  course  which  they  ne 
cessarily  pursued,  it  is  not  surprising  that  ten  days-were  spent  in  accomplish 
ing  a  journey,  which,  since  the  advent  of  the  iron  horse  into  the  Four  Lake 
country,  we  are  able  to  perform  in  a  little  more  than  three  hours.  They 
forded  Rock  River  near  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Watertown,  and  the 
Crawfish  at  Milford.  The  first  glimpse  they  had  of  the  sun  during  their 
journey  was  on  the  prairie,  in  this  county,  now  known  as  the  Sun  Prairie — 
•i.  name  given  it  at  the  time,  as  a  compliment  to  the  luminary  which  beamed 


WISCONSIN. 


441 


forth  so  auspiciously  and  cheerfully  on  that  occasion,  and  possibly  to  encour 
age  Old  Sol  to  persevere  in  well  doing. 

Among  the  party  that  came  with  Bird  was  Darwin  Clark,  Charles  Bird, 
David  Hyer,  and  John  Pierce ;  the  latter  accompanied  by  his  family,  being 
the  second  settler  with  a  family.  On  the  same  day  that  this  party  reached 
here,  Simeon  Mills,  now  a  resident  of  Madison,  and  well  known  through  the 
county,  arrived  from  Chicago.  John  Catlin  had  been  appointed  postmaster, 
but  was  not  here,  and  Mr.  M.  acted  as  his  deputy.  He  erected  a  block  build 
ing,  fifteen  feet  square,  and  in  this  opened  the  postoffice  and  the  first  store 
in  Madison.  The  building  is  yet  extant,  and  at  present  stands  in  the  rear 
of  a  blacksmith  shop,  and  is  used  as  a  coal  house.  During  the  following 
month  John  Catlin  arrived,  and  was  the  first  member  of  the  legal  profession 
that  settled  in  Madison.  William  N.  Seymour,  another  old  settler  and  well 
known  citizen,  came  here  the  same  season,  and  was  the  second  lawyer  in  the 
place.  The  workmen  upon  the  capitol  proceeded  at  once  to  getting  out  stone 
and  timber  for  that  edifice,  and,  on  the  Fourth  of  July,  the  corner  stone  was 
laid,  with  due  ceremony.  Speeches  were  made  on  the  occasion  and  toasts 
drunk,  whether  in  cold  water,  or  some  stronger  beverage,  tradition  does  not 
mention. 

The  first  framed  building  erected  was  a  small  office  for  the  acting  commis 
sioner;  the  first  framed  dwelling  was  built  by  A.  A.  Bird.  This  still  stands 
upon  its  original  site,  on  the  bank  of  Lake  Monona,  back  of  the  Capital 
House.  The  boards  used  in  these  buildings  were  sawed  by  hand.  A  steam 
saw  mill,  to  saw  lumber  for  the  capitol,  was  built  during  the  latter  part  of  the 
same  season,  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Mendota,  just  below  the  termination  of 
Pinkney-street.  In  the  month  of  September,  of  the  same  year,  John  Stoner 
arrived,  being  the  third  settler  with  a  family.  A  Methodist  clergyman,  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Stebbins,  the  presiding  elder  of  the  territory,  preached  the  first  ser 
mon  delivered  in  Madison,  during  the  same  month.  Four  families,  with 
their  inmates  and  guests,  constituted  the  entire  population  of  Madison,  and 
with  two  or  three  families  at  Blue  Mounds,  the  whole  population  of  Dane 
county  during  the  winter  of  1837—8.  In  the  spring  of  1838,  Messrs.  A.  A. 
Bird,  Simeon  Mills,  William  A.  Wheeler,  and  others,  who  spent  the  winter 
here,  brought  on  their  families  and  became  permanent  residents.  During  the 
summer  the  Madison  Hotel  was  built,  and  the  first  session  of  the  supreme 
court  of  the  territory  was  held  in  July,  in  the  sitting  room.  Judge  Dunn, 
of  Lafayette  county,  was  then  chief  justice,  with  Judges  Frazier  and  Irwin 
as  associates.  The  work  on  the  capitol  went  on  somewhat  slowly.  On^  the 
8th  of  November,  the  Wisconsin  Enquirer,  by  J.  A.  Noonan,  made  its  appear 
ance,  being  the  pioneer  paper  at  the  capital. 

The  resident  population  of  Madison,  the  second  winter,  was  about  one 
hundred  souls.  The  first  female  child  born  in  Madison  was  Wisconsinia 
Peck,  born  in  the  fall  of  1837;  the  first  male  child  was  Madison  Stoner, 
born  in  1838.  Dr.  Almon  Lull,  the  first  physician,  settled  here  during  the 
same  year. 

The  Wisconsin  Enquirer  of  May  25,  1839,  contains  an  article  respecting 
Dane  county,  in  which  the  population  of  the  county  is  estimated  at  over 
three  hundred,  more  than  half  of  whom  resided  in  Madison.  This  was, 
doubtless,  too  high  an  estimate,  as  the  population  by  the  census  of  1840  was 
but  314.  The  village  then  contained  two  stores,  three  public  houses,  three 
groceries,  and  one  steam  mill — in  all,  thirty-five  buildings.  The  same  article  • 
states  that  prices  had  ranged  during  the  year  then  past  as  follows:  corn,  $1  25 


442  WISCONSIN. 

per  bushel;  oats,  75  cents;  potatoes,  $1  00;  butter,  37J  to  62J  cents;  eggs, 
37J  to  75  cents  per  dozen;  pork  and  beef,  from  7  to  12  cents  per  pound.  The 
anniversary  of  our  national  independence  was  celebrated  in  due  style,  for  the 
first  time  in  Madison,  this  season.  John  Catlin,  Esq.,  was  president  of  the 
day;  A.  A.  Bird  and  Simeon  Mills,  vice  presidents.  The  Declaration  was 
read  by  Geo.  P.  Delaplaine,  and  the  oration  pronounced  by  William  T.  Ster 
ling.  Hon.  E.  Brigham  acted  as  marshal. 

For  a  number  of  years  the  growth  of  the  village  was  slow.  Immediately 
after  the  location  of  the  capital,  all  the  lands  in  the  vicinity  were  entered 
by  speculators,  and  lots  and  land  were  held  at  a  prospective  value.  The  lo 
cation  being  at  a  central  point  between  the  Mississippi  and  Lake  Michigan, 
the  advancing  army  of  immigrants,  on  either  hand,  found  a  wide,  fertile  and 
beautiful  extent  of  country,  at  that  time  nearer  market,  and  therefore  holding 
out  superior  attractions  to  the  agriculturist.  They  did  not  consequently  care 
to  indulge  the  speculator's  appetite  for  fancy  prices.  This  condition  of  affairs 
continued  until  1848.  In  the  meantime  the  fertile  valley  of  Rock  River  had 
been  filled  with  settlers,  and  immigration  began  to  turn  into  Dane  county, 
which  possesses  a  soil  as  bountiful  and  a  surface  of  country  as  attractive  as 
any  county  in  the  state,  but  which,  before  it  was  tapped  by  railroads,  was  too 
far  from  market  to  render  agriculture  remunerative. 

The  beginning  of  the  real  prosperity  and  growth  of  Madison  commenced 
with  the  admission  of  the  state  into  the  Union,  in  1848.  The  constitutional 
convention  then  permanently  located  the  capital  here;  until  that  time  there 
had  been  fears  of  its  removal,  and  capitalists  had  hesitated  to  invest  their 
money  in  the  vicinity.  Since  that  period  its  progress  in  wealth  and  popula 
tion  has  been  rapid  and  constant. 

In  1847,  L.  J.  Farwell,  of  Milwaukie,  attracted  by  the  beauty  of  the  lo 
cation,  and  foreseeing  its  advantages  as  the  natural  business  center  of  the  in 
terior,  the  point  of  convergence  of  the  principal  lines  of  travel,  and  the  cap 
ital  of  the  state,  made  an  extensive  purchase  of  real  estate,  comprising  a 
portion  of  the  village  plat  and  of  lands  lying  adjacent,  which  included  the 
unimproved  water  power  between  Lakes  Monona  and  Mendota.  To  the 
active  enterprise,  the  liberal  policy,  and  the  public  spirit  of  this  gentle 
man,  Madison  is  largely  indebted  for  her  present  prosperity  and  growing 
greatness." 

We  conclude  this  sketch  of  Madison  with  Child's  account  of  the  first  ses 
sion  of  the  territorial  legislature  in  the  place,  which  met  Nov.  26,  1838: 

The  new  capitol  edifice  was  not  yet  in  a  suitable  condition  to  receive  the  legis 
lature  ;  so  we  had  to  assemble  in  the  basement  of  the  old  American  House,  where 
Gov.  Dodge  delivered  his  first  message  at  the  new  seat  of  government.  We  ad 
journed  from  day  to  day,  until  we  could  get  into  the  new  capitol  building.  At 
length  we  took  possession  of  the  new  Assembly  Hall.  The  floors  were  laid  with 
green  oak  boards,  full  of  ice;  the  walls  of  the  room  were  iced  over;  green  oak 
seats,  and  desks  made  of  rough  boards ;  one  fire-place  and  one  small  stove.  In  a 
few  days  the  flooring  near  the  stove  and  fire-place  so  shrunk  on  account  of  the 
heat,  that  a  person  could  run  his  hands  between  the  boards.  The  basement  story 
was  all  open,  and  James  Morrison's  large  drove  of  hogs  had  taken  possession ;  they 
were  awfully  poor,  and  it  would  have  taken  two  of  them,  standing  side  by  side,  to 
have  made  a  decent  shadow  on  a  bright  day.  We  had  a  great  many  smart  mem 
bers  in  the  house,  and  sometimes  they  spoke  for  Buncombe.  When  members  of 
.this  ilk  would  become  too  tedious,  I  would  take  a  long  pole,  go  at  the  hogs,  and  stir 
them  up;  when  they  would  raise  a  young  pandemonium  for  noise  and  confusion. 
The  speaker's  voice  would  become  completely  drowned,  and  he  would  be  compelled 
to  stop,  not,  however,  without  giving  his  squealing  disturbers  a  sample  of  his  swear 
ing  ability. 


WISCONSIN. 


443 


The  weather  was  cold ;  the  halls  were  cold,  our  ink  would  freeze,  everything 
froze — so  when  we  could  stand  it  no  longer,  we  passed  a  joint  resolution  to  adjourn 
for  twenty  days.  I  was  appointed  by  the  two  houses  to  procure  carpeting  for  both 
halls  during  the  recess;  I  bought  all  I  could  find  in  the  territory,  and  brought  it  to 
Madison,  and  put  it  down  after  covering  the  floor  with  a  thick  coating  of  hay. 
After  this,  we  were  more  comfortable.  The  American  Hotel  was  the  only  public 
house  in  Madison,  except  that  Mr.  Peck  kept  a  few  boarders  in  his  old  log  house, 
which  was  still  standing  not  long  since.  We  used  to  have  tall  times  in  those 
days — times  long  to  be  remembered.  The  Forty  Thieves  were  then  in  their  in 
fancy;  stealing  was  carried  on  in  a  small  way.  Occasionally  a  bill  would  be  fairly 
stolen  through  the  legislature;  and  the  territory  would  get  gouged  a  little  now  and 
then. 


The  Four  Lakes. 

The  "  FOUR  LAKES,"  in  the  midst  of  which  Madison  is  so  beautifully 
placed,  is  a  striking  feature  of  the  country,  which  is  called  the  "garden  spot" 
of  Wisconsin.  The  land  around  them  is  undulating,  and  consists  mostly  of 
prairies  and  "oak  openings,"  bearing  in  some  respects  a  resemblance  to  En 
glish  park  scenery.  Fourth  Lake,  or  Lake  Mendota,  is  the  largest  of  the 
chain,  and  from  50  to  70  feet  deep.  It  is  navigable  for  small  steamers. 
"  The  land  around  this  lake  rises  gradually  from  its  margin,  and  forms,  in  the 
distance,  the  most  beautiful  elevations,  the  slopes  of  which  are  studded  with 
clumps  of  woods,  and  groves  of  trees,  forming  the  most  charming  natural 
scenery.  The  water  of  all  these  lakes,  coming  from  springs,  is  cold  and  clear 
to  a  remarkable  degree.  For  the  most  part,  their  shores  are  made  of  a  fine 
gravel  shingle ;  and  their  bottoms,  which  are  visible  at  a  great  depth,  are 
composed  of  white  sand,  interspersed  with  granite  bowlders.  Their  banks, 
with  few  exceptions,  are  bold.  A  jaunt  around  them  affords  almost  every 
variety  of  scenery — bold  escarpments  and  overhanging  bluffs,  elevated  peaks, 
and  gently  sloping  shores,  with  graceful  swells  or  intervals,  affording  mag 
nificent  views  of  the  distant  prairies  and  openings;  they  abound  in  fish  of  a 
great  variety,  and  innumerable  water-fowl  sport  upon  the  surface.  Persons 
desiring  to  settle  in  pleasant  locations,  with  magnificent  water  views  and  wood- 


444  WISCONSIN. 

land  scenery,  may  find  hundreds  of  unoccupied  places  of  unsurpassed  beauty 
upon  and  near  their  margins." 

The  term  "  Four  Lake  Country,"  is  applied  to  Dane  county,  in  which  these 
lakes  are  situated.  This  county  contains  about  1,250  square  miles,  nearly 
equal  to  the  entire  state  of  Rhode  Island,  which  has  1,300  square  miles. 
Only  one  sixth  of  the  land  is  yet  settled,  and  all  is  susceptible  of  culture. 
;-  Were  Dane  county  as  thickly  settled  as  the  French  departments  of  Rhone, 
Nord,  and. Lower  Rhine,  it  would  sustain  a  population  of  700,000  souls." 

The  first  permanent  American  settler,  within  the  limits  of  Dane  county,  waa 
Ebenezer  Brigham,  of  Blue  Mounds.  "He  journeyed  from  Massachusetts  to  St. 
Louis  in  1818;  thence,  in  the  spring  of  1828,  he  removed  to  Blue  Mounds,  the 
most  advanced  outpost  in  the  mines,  and  has  resided  there  ever  since,  being,  by 
four  years  at  least,  the  oldest  white  settler  in  the  county.  The  isolated  position  he 
thus  settled  upon  will  be  apparent  from  the  statement  of  a  few  facts.  The  nearest 
settler  was  at  what  is  now  Dodgeville,  about  twenty  miles  distant.  Mineral  Point, 
and  most  of  the  other  diggings,  where  villages  have  since  grown  up,  had  not  then 
been  discovered.  On  the  south-east,  the  nearest  house  was  on  the  O'Flaine  River, 
twelve  miles  west  of  Chicago.  On  the  east,  Solomon  Juneau  was  his  nearest  neighbor, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Milwaukie  River;  and  on  the  north-east,  Green  Bay  was  the 
nearest  settlement — Fort  Winnebago  not  then  being  projected.  The  country  at 
this  time  was  part  of  Michigan  Territory. 

For  several  years  after  his  coining  the  savages  were  sole  lords  of  the  soil.  A 
large  Indian  village  stood  near  the  mouth  of  Token  creek;  another  stood  on  the 
ridge  between  the  Second  and  Third  Lakes,  in  plain  view  of  Madison ;  and  their 
wigwams  were  scattered  all  along  the  streams,  the  remnants  of  their  gardens,  etc., 
being  still  visible.  Then  there  was  not  a  civilized  village  in  the  state  of  any  con 
siderable  size.  When  the  capital  was  located,  he  was  the  nearest  settler  to  it — 
twenty-four  miles  distant !  He  stood  on  the  ground  before  its  selection  as  the  seat 
of  government  was  thought  of,  and  from  the  enchanting  beauty  of  the  spot,  pre 
dicted  that  a  village  would  be  built  there." 


i  Watertown,  Jefferson  county,  is  finely  situated  on  both  sides  of  Rock  River, 
on  the  Fond  du  Lac  and  Rock  River  Railroad,  40  miles  easterly  from  Madi 
son,  at  the  great  bend  of  the  river,  at  the  foot  of  Johnson's  Rapids,  where  a 
dam  across  the  river  creates  a  great  water  power,  which  is  extensively  used 
for  manufacturing  purposes.  It  was  settled  in  1836,  and  has  had  a  rapid 
growth.  Population,  in  1860,  5,800. 

PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN,  the  county  seat  of  Crawford  county,  stands  upon 
the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  terminus  of  the  Milwaukie  and  Mis 
sissippi  Railroad,  about  three  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Wisconsin  River,  96 
miles  W.  of  Madison,  192  from  Milwaukie,  529  above  St.  Louis,  and  296 
below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  "  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  dry  allu 
vial  prairie,  about  six  miles  in  length  along  the  river,  by  two  miles  wide. 
The  southern  and  widest  portion  of  the  prairie  is  gently  undulating,  and  so 
high  above  the  river  as  never  to  be  subject  to  inundation,  and  it  is  one  of  the 
best  sites  for  a  town  on  the  river.  The  water  is  deep,  affording  natural  and 
spacious  harbors.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  the  bluffs  rise  directly 
from  the  water,  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  forest  trees,  and  are  only 
broken  by  ravines,  which  afford  roadways  into  the  country  west  from  the 
river.  There  is  no  room  for  any  considerable  town  to  be  built  on  the  river 
elsewhere,  nearer  than  Dubuque,  seventy  miles  south  of  this  place,  and  for 
a  distance  of  nearly  one  hundred  miles  north,  on  account  of  the  high  bluffs 
which  rise,  like  the  highlands  of  the  Hudson,  from  the  water's  edge.  Prairie 


WISCONSIN. 


445 


du  Cliien  can  never  have  a  competitor  for  the  western  trade  between  those 
limits." 

There  are  two  landings  here,  one  at  the  terminus  of  the  Milwaukie  and 
Mississippi  Railroad,  on  the  slough  around  the  eastern  side  of  an  island  in 
the  Mississippi,  the  other,  McGregor's  landing,  about  1J  miles  northward  of 


South-western  view  of  Fort  0)-awford,  at  Prairie  du  Chien. 

The  Hospital  is  situated  on  the  right.  The  high  grounds  seen  back  from  the  fort,  with  the  horizontal 
ranges  of  stone  cropping  out  from  the  surface,  is  characteristic  of  the  appearance  of  the  bluffs  on  this 
eide  of  the  Mississippi. 

the  railroad  depot.  Fort  Crawford,  now  occupied  by  several  laborers  and 
their  families,  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  gentle  elevation  of  the  prairie, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  Water  is  obtained  within  the  walls  of  the 
fort  from  a  well  65  feet  deep.  Population  is  about  5,000. 

According  to  tradition,  Prairie  du  Chien  was  named  from  an  Indian  chief 
by  the  name  of  Chien,  or  Dog,  who  had  a  village  on  the  prairie,  near  where 
Fort  Crawford  now  stands — Chien,  or  Dog,  is  a  favorite  name  among  the  In 
dians  of  the  north-west.  About  the  year  1737,  the  French  established  a 
trading  post  at  this  place,  and  built  a  stockade  around  their  dwellings  to 
protect  them  from  the  Indians,  and  from  that  day  to  modern  times  it  con 
tinued  to  be  a  trading  and  military  post,  though  occasionally  a  worn  out  voy- 
ageur  got  married  and  settled  down  upon  the  spot.  The  land  at  this  point 
was  not  purchased  from  the  Indians,  and  none  surveyed  except  the  private 
claims  on  the  prairie,  for  many  years  after  the  government  took  possession 
of  it  as  a  military  post.  There  were  not,  until  1835,  any  Americans  that 
emigrated  to  the  prairie  for  settlement. 

In  1819,  Lewis  Cass,  the  governor  of  Michigan  Territory,  sent  blank  com 
missions  for  the  different  officers  of  the  counties,  to  be  filled  up  by  the  in 
habitants.  These  were  taken  by  Lieut.  Col.  Leavenworth,  then  on  his  way, 
with  the  fifth  regiment,  to  occupy  Forts  Crawford  and  Armstrong,  and  to 
build  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peters.  Two  companies  of  this  regiment, 
under  Maj.  Muhlenberg,  were  detached  to  Prairie  du  Chien.  Soon  after  re 
ceiving  the  blank  commissions,  the  principal  inhabitants  assembled  at  the 
house  of  Nicholas  Boilvin,  and  appointed  John  W.  Johnson,  U.  S.  factor,  as 
chief  justice  of  the  county  court;  Wilfred  Owens,  judge  of  probate;  N. 
Boilvin,  J.  W.  Johnson,  and  James  H.  Lockwood,  justices  of  the  peace;  J, 
S.  Findley,  clerk;  J.  P.  Gates,  register;  and  Thomas  McNair,  sheriff. 


446  WISCONSIN 

The  following  extracts  are  copied  from  vol.  2  of  the  "Collections  of  the 
State  Historical  Society  of  Wisconsin,"  from  an  article  entitled  "Early  Times 
and  Events  in  Wisconsin,"  by  Hon.  James  H.  Lockwood: 

"In  the  year  1820-'21,  the  county  authorities  of  Crawford  erected  a  jail 
in  the  old  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  in  the  rear  of  village  lot  No.  17  of 
that  village,  made  of  hewn  oak  logs  of  about  one  foot  square;  the  house 
was  25  by  16  feet,  and  divided  by  the  same  kind  of  logs  into  a  debtors'  and 
criminals'  apartments. 

There  is  a  tract  of  land  nearly  opposite  the  old  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien 
in  Iowa,  which  was  granted  by  the  Spanish  lieut.  governor  of  Louisiana  to 
one  Bazil  Girard,  and  running  through  it  was  a  small  stream  or  brook,  usually 
called  Girard's  creek;  but,  in  1823,  the  commandant  of  Fort  Crawford  had 
a  body  of  men  detailed  to  cultivate  a  public  garden  on  the  old  farm  of  Gi 
rard,  on  said  creek,  and  Martin  Scott,  then  a  lieutenant  of  the  fifth  infantry, 
and  stationed  at  Fort  Crawford,  was  directed  to  superintend  the  party.  Fond 
of  shooting,  and  a  great  shot  generally,  he  took  his  dogs  and  gun  every 
morning,  got  into  his  little  hunting  canoe,  and  spent  the  day  in  shooting 
woodcocks  which  were  plenty  in  the  marshes  about  there,  and  returning  in 
the  evening  would  boast  of  the  number  that  had  bled  that  day.  After  a 
while  he  gave  the  creek  the  name  of  Bloody  Run,  which  name  it  still  bears. 
The  name  generally  suggests  to  strangers  the  idea  of  some  bloody  battle 
having  been  fought  there,  and  I  have  been  frequently  questioned  as  to  the 
tradition  relative  to  it.  and  a  few  years  since  the  editor  of  our  village  paper 
had  somewhere  picked  up  the  same  romantic  idea,  and  published  a  long  tra 
ditionary  account  of  a  bloody  battle  pretended  to  have  been  fought  there 
years  ago.  But  the  creek  is  indebted  for  its  name  to  the  hunting  exploits  of 
Major  Martin  Scott,  when  a  lieutenant,  and  stationed  at  Fort  Crawford. 

On  the  16th  of  September,  1816,  I  arrived  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  a  traders' 
village  of  between  twenty-five  and  thirty  houses,  situated  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi,  on  what,  in  high  water,  is  an  island.  The  houses  were  built 
by  planting  posts  upright  in  the  ground  with  grooves  in  them,  so  that  the 
sides  could  be  filled  in  with  split  timber  or  round  poles,  and  then  plastered 
over  with  clay,  and  white-washed  with  a  white  earth  found  in  the  vicinity, 
and  then  covered  with  bark,  or  clapboards  riven  from  oak. 

The  village,  now  called  the  old  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  was  designated 
by  Lyons  as  the  main  village,  as  it  was  so  at  the  time  he  surveyed  the  private 
land  claims  of  Prairie  du  Chien. 

There  were  on  the  prairie  about  forty  farms  cultivated  along  under  the 
bluffs,  where  the  soil  was  first  rate,  and  inclosed  in  one  common  field,  and 
the  boundaries  generally  between  them  marked  by  a  road  that  afforded  them 
ingress  and  egress  to  their  fields ;  the  plantations  running  from  the  bluffs  to 
the  Mississippi,  or  to  the  slough  of  St.  Freole,  and  from  three  to  five  arpents 
wide.  The  owners  did  not  generally  live  immediately  on  their  farms,  but 
clustered  together  in  little  villages  near  their  front,  and  were  much  the  same 
description  of  inhabitants  as  those  of  Green  Bay,  except  that  there  were  a 
number  of  families  of  French  extraction,  entirely  unmixed  with  the  natives, 
who  came  from  the  French  villages  of  Illinois.  The  farmers'  wives  instead 
of  being  of  the  Indian  tribes  about,  were  generally  of  the  mixed  blood. 
They  were  living  in  Arcadian  simplicity,  spending  a  great  part  of  their  time 
in  fishing,  hunting,  horse  racing  or  trotting,  or  in  dancing  and  drinking. 
They  had  little  or  no  ambition  for  progress  and  improvement,  or  in  any  way 
bettering  their  condition,  provided  their  necessities  were  supplied,  and  they 


WISCONSIN.  447 

could  often  collect  together  and  dance  and  frolic.  With  these  wants  grati 
fied,  they  were  perfectly  satisfied  to  continue  he  same  routine  and  habits  of 
their  forefathers  before  them.  They  had  no  aristocracy  among  them  except 
the  traders,  who  were  regarded  as  a  privileged  class. 

It  was  said,  that  about  1809  or  1810,  a  trader,  an  Irishman  by  birth,  of 
the  name  of  Campbell,  was  appointed  by  the  U.  S.  government  sub-Indian 
agent  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  by  the  governor  of  the  Territory  of  Illinois 
a  justice  of  the  peace.  The  currency  of  Prairie  du  Chien  was  at  that  time 
flour,  and  Campbell  charged  for  celebrating  the  rites  of  matrimony  100 
pounds  of  flour,  and  for  dissolving  it  200  pounds,  alleging  that  when  people 
wanted  to  get  unmarried,  they  would  willingly  give  double  what  they  would 
originally  to  form  the  matrimonial  connection. 

In  speaking  of  the  courts  of  justice  of  the  country,  and  of  their  county 
seats,  Mr.  Brisbois  related  to  me,  that  sometime  previous  to  the  war  of  1812, 
he  and  Mr.  Campbell  had  a  dispute  about  a  heifer  that  was  worth  at  the 
time  perhaps  eight  dollars ;  and  as  each  believed  it  to  be  his  property,  they 
applied  to  the  lawyer  at  Cahokia  to  assist  them  in  finding  out  who  was  the 
real  owner.  The  mode  of  traveling  in  those  days  was  in  a  canoe,  manned 
with  six  or  eight  men  to  paddle,  and  taking  with  them  some  flour,  tea,  and 
sugar  for  the  Burgeois ;  and  some  hulled  corn  and  deer  tallow,' enough  to 
season  the  soup,  for  the  men,  depending  upon  shooting  game  by  the  way,  or 
buying  wild  fowl  or  venison  from  the  Indians.  The  parties  litigant  were 
obliged  to  take  their  witnesses  with  them,  paying  them  for  their  time  and  ex 
penses,  from  their  departure  until  their  return  home.  The  parties  were  also 
obliged  to  take  a  bundle  of  beaver  skins,  and  dispose  of  them  at  St.  Louis  to 
pay  the  expenses  of  lawyers,  etc.;  and  the  lawyers,  as  usual,  were  disposed 
to  oblige  the  parties  by  putting  over  the  case  from  time  to  time,  and  the 
parties  continued  the  suit  in  this  manner  until  it  had  cost  them  about  fifteen 
hundred  dollars  each,  when  they  took  it  out  of  court  and  settled  it.  But 
which  retained  the  heifer,  if  I  ever  heard,  I  do  not  now  recollect. 

The  coutume  de  Paris  so  far  prevailed  in  this  country  generally,  that  a  part 
of  the  ceremony  of  marriage  was  the  entering  into  a  contract  in  writing,  gen 
erally  giving,  if  no  issue,  the  property  to  the  survivor;  and  if  they  desired 
to  be  divorced,  they  went  together  before  the  magistrate,  and  made  known 
their  wishes,  and  he,  in  their  presence,  tore  up  the  marriage  contract,  and 
according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  they  were  then  divorced.  I  was 
once  present  at  Judge  Abbott's  at  Mackinaw,  when  a  couple  presented  them 
selves  before  him,  and  were  divorced  in  this  manner.  When  the  laws  of 
Michigan  were  first  introduced  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  it  was  with  difficulty  that 
the  justice  of  the  peace  could  persuade  them  that  a  written  contract  was  not 
necessary,  and  some  of  them  believed  that  because  the  contract  of  marriage 
gave  the  property  to  the  survivor,  that  they  were  not  obliged  to  pay  the  debts 
which  the  deceased  owed  at  the  time  of  his  death. 

There  was  an  instance  of  this  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  A  man  by  the  name 
of  Jean  Marie  Quen  (de  Lamouche),  who  had  been  married  by  contract,  died 
without  issue,  leaving  a  widow,  some  personal  property,  and  a  good  farm,  but 
was  indebted  to  Joseph  Rolette  about  $300,  which  his  widow  refused  to  puy, 
alleging  that  the  contract  of  marriage  gave  her  all  the  property;  nor  could 
she  be  convinced  to  the  contrary,  until  I  had  brought  a  suit  against  her  and 
obtained  a  judgment." 

"  In  speaking  of  the  early  settlers,  and  their  marriage  connections,  1  should  per 
haps  explain  a  little.  In  the  absence  of  religious  instructions,  and  it  becoming  so 


448  WISCONSIN. 

common  to  see  the  Indians  use  so  little  ceremony  about  marriage,  the  idea  of  a 
verbal  matrimonial  contract  became  familiar  to  the  early  French  settlers,  and  they 
generally  believed  that  such  a  contract  was  valid  without  any  other  ceremony. 
Many  of  the  women,  married  in  this  way,  believed,  in  their  simplicity  and  igno 
rance,  that  they  were  as  lawfully  the  wives  of  the  men  they  lived  with,  as  though 
they  had  been  married  with  all  the  ceremony  and  solemnity  possible.  A  woman 
of  rrairie  du  Chien,  respectable  in  her  class,  told  me  that  she  was  attending  a  ball 
in  the  place,  and  that  a  trader,  who  resided  on  the  Lower  Mississippi,  had  his 
canoe  loaded  to  leave  as  soon  as  the  ball  was  over,  proposed  to  marry  her;  and  as 
he  was  a  trader  and  ranked  above  her,  she  was  pleased  with  the  offer,  and  as  his 
canoe  was  waiting,  he  would  not  delay  for  further  ceremony.  She  stepped  from 
the  ball-room  on  board  his  canoe,  and  went  with  him  down  the  Mississippi,  and 
they  lived  together  three  or  four  years,  and  she  had  two  children  by  him.  She 
assured  me  that  she  then  believed  herself  as  much  the  wife  of  this  man  as  if  she 
had  been  married  with  all  the  ceremony  of  the  most  civilized  communities,  and 
was  not  convinced  to  the  contrary,  until  he  unfeelingly  abandoned  her  and  married 
another;  and  from  her  manner  of  relating  it,  I  believed  her  sincere." 

The  traders  in  the  British  interest,  in  the  war  of  1812,  resorted  to  Mack 
inaw  as  their  head-quarters.  In  order  to  obtain  the  whole  control  of  the 
Indian  trade,  they  fitted  out  an  expedition  under  Col.  McKay,  consisting  of 
three  or  four  companies  of  Canadians,  commanded  by  traders  and  officered 
by  their  clerks,  all  in  red  coats,  with  a  body  of  Indians.  Having  made  a 
secret  march,  they  arrived  on  the  prairie  without  being  expected.  Making 
a  formidable  show,  and  the  Americans  being  out  of  ammunition  and  provis 
ions,  they  surrendered,  and  the  British  kept  possession  during  the  war. 

"In  the  spring  of  1817,  a  Roman  Catholic  priest  from  St.  Louis,  called  Pere 
Priere.  visited  Prairie  du  Chien.  He  was  the  first  that  had  been  there  for  many 
years,  and  perhaps  since  the  settlement,  and  organized  a  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
and  disturbed  some  of  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  inhabitants.  He  found 
several  women  who  had  left  their  husbands  and  were  living  with  other  men;  these 
he  made  by  the  terror  of  his  church  to  return  and  ask  pardon  of  their  husbands, 
and  to  be  taken  back  by  them,  which  they  of  course  could  not  refuse. 

Brevet  General  Smyth,  the  colonel  of  the  rifle  regiment,  who  came  to  Prairie  du 
Chien  to  erect  Fort  Crawford,  in  1816,  had  arrived  in  June,  and  selected  the  mound 
where  the  stockade  had  been  built,  and  the  ground  in  front,  to  include  the  most 
thickly  inhabited  part  of  the  village.  The  ground  thus  selected  encroached  upon 
the  ancient  burying  ground  of  the  prairie,  so  that  the  inhabitants  were  obliged  to 
remove  their  dead  to  another  place. 

During  the  winter  of  1816,  or  early  in  the  spring  of  1817,  Lieut.  Col.  Talbot 
Chambers  arrived  at  Fort  Crawford,  and  assumed  the  command,  and  the  houses  in 
the  village  being  an  obstruction  to  the  garrison,  in  the  spring  of  1817,  he  ordered 
those  houses  in  front  and  about  the  fort  to  be  taken  down  by  their  owners,  and  re 
moved  to  the  lower  end  of  the  village,  where  he  pretended  to  give  them  lots." 

"When  I  first  came  to  the  country,  it  was  the  practice  of  the  old  traders  and 
interpreters  to  call  any  inferior  article  of  goods  American,  and  to  speak  to  the  In 
dians  in  a  contemptuous  manner  of  the  Americans  and  their  goods,  and  the  goods 
which  they  brought  into  the  country  but  too  generally  warranted  this  reproach. 
But  after  Mr.  Astor  had  purchased  out  the  South-west  Company  and  established 
the  American  Fur  Company,  he  succeeded  in  getting  suitable  kinds  of  goods  for 
the  Indians,  except  at  first  the  North-west  Indian  gun.  He  attempted  to  introduce 
an  imitation  of  them,  manufactured  in  Holland,  but  it  did  not  succeed,  as  the  In 
dians  soon  detected  the  difference. 

At  that  time  there  were  generally  collected  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  by  the  traders 
and  U.  S.  factors,  about  three  hundred  packs  of  one  hundred  pounds  each  of  furs 
and  peltries,  mostly  fine  furs.  Of  the  different  Indian  tribes  that  visited  and  traded 
more  or  less  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  there  were  the  Menomonees,  from  Green  Bay, 
who  frequently  wintered  on  the  Mississippi;  the  Chippewas,  who  resided  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Chippewa  and  Black  Rivers ;  the  Foxes,  who  had  a  large  village 


WISCONSIN.  449 

where  Cassville  now  stands,  called  Penah,  i.  e.  Turkey ;  the  Sauks,  who  resided 
about  Galena  'and  Dubuque;  the  Winnebagoes,  who  resided  on  the  Wisconsin 
River;  the  lowas,  who  then  had  a  village  on  the  Upper  Iowa  River;  Wabashaw's 
band  of  Sioux,  who  resided  on  a  beautiful  prairie  on  the  Iowa  side  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  above  Prairie  du  Chien,  with  occasion 
ally  a  Kickapoo  and  Pottawatomie. 

The  Sauks  and  Foxes  brought  from  Galena  a  considerable  quantity  of  lead, 
molded  in  the  earth,  in  bars  about  two  feet  long,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches  wide, 
and  from  two  to  four  inches  thick,  being  something  of  an  oval  form,  and  thickest 
in  the  middle,  and  generally  thinning  to  the  edge,  and  weighing  from  thirty  to  forty 
pounds.  It  was  not  an  uncommon  thing  to  see  a  Fox  Indian  arrive  at  Prairie  du 
Chien,  with  a  hand  sled,  loaded  with  twenty  or  thirty  wild  turkies  for  sale,  as  they 
were  very  plenty  about  Cassville,  and  occasionally  there  were  some  killed  opposite 
Prairie  du  Chien." 

"In  the  year  1828,  Gen.  Joseph  M.  Street  was  appointed  Indian  agent  at  Prairie 
du  Chien,  and  arrived  alone  in  the  fall  of  that  year  to  assume  the  duties  of  his 
office;  and,  in  the  winter,  returned  to  Illinois,  and  brought  his  family  to  Prairie 
du  Chien  in  the  spring  of  the  following  year,  being  the  first  family  who  settled  in 
Prairie  du  Chien  that  made  a  profession  of  the  Protestant  faith  of  any  of  the  dif 
ferent  sects." 

"In  1830,  the  present  Fort  Crawford  was  commenced,  and  in  1831,  it  was  occu 
pied  with  a  part  of  the  troops,  leaving  the  sick  in  the  old  hospital,  and  the  surgeon 
in  the  old  fort.  The  fort,  I  think,  was  finished  in  1832.  In  1833,  the  authorities 
of  Crawford  county  concluded  to  build  a  court  house  and  jail,  and  commenced 
raising  funds  by  increasing  the  taxes;  and,  in  1836,  constructed  a  stone  building 
of  sufficient  size  to  have  on  the  ground  floor  a  room  each  for  criminals  and  debtors, 
and  two  rooms  for  the  jailer,  with  a  court  room  and  two  jury  rooms  on  the  second 
floor.  The  taxable  inhabitants  then  in  the  county  were  confined  to  the  prairie. 
We  were  then  attached  to  Michigan  Territory,  and  so  well  were  our  county  affairs 
managed,  that  the  taxes  were  not  raised  more  than  five  mills  on  a  dollar  to  pay  for 
this  improvement;  and  this  was  the  first  court  house  erected  in  Wisconsin.' 


The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  a  small  grave 
yard,  in  a  grove  of  locust  trees,  a  short  distance  north  of  Fort  Crawford : 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  CAPT.  EDGAR  M.  LACY,  5th  Beg.  U.  S.  Inft.,  who  died  at  Fort 
Crawford,  April  2,  1839,  aged  33  years.  He  awaits  the  last  KKVIEW.  Erected  by  the  5th 
Infantry. 


Sacred  to  the  memory  of  WILLOUGHBY  MORGAN,  Col.  1st  Infy,  U.  S.  Army,  who  died  at 
Fort  Crawford,  April  4,  1832.     Erected  by  the  5th  Infantry. 


RACINE  is  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Root  River, 
73  miles  E.S.E.  from  Madison,  23  S.E.  from  Milwaukie,  and  62  N.  from  Chi 
cago.  The  Chicago  and  Milwaukie  Railroad,  connecting  with  the  Racine  and 
Mississippi  Railroad,  here  opens  a  vast  extent  of  prairie  country  to  its  trade. 
The  outlet  of  Root  River  at  this  place  gives  it  great  commercial  advantages ; 
the  average  width  in  the  city  being  230  feet,  and  for  more  than  half  a  mile 
it  is  12  feet  deep.  Lake  Michigan  is  70  miles  wide  opposite  Racine;  the 
harbor  is  one  of  the  most  commodious  on  the  entire  chain  of  lakes.  The 
city  is  finely  located  upon  the  high  banks  of  the  lake  and  river.  Its  broad, 
straight,  and  beautifully  shaded  avenues  extend  along  the  lake  for  miles.  It 
contains  several  splendid  buildings,  18  churches,  among  which  are  4  German, 
3  Welsh,  and  1  Scandinavian;  4  newspapers  are  published  here.  Population, 
in  1840,  300;  in  1850,  5,111;  in  1860,  7,600. 

The  Racine  College  buildings  are  located  in  a  delightful  grove,  overlook 
ing  a  lake  front  of  uncommon  beauty.     The  college  was  founded  by  the  citi 
29 


450 


WISCONSIN. 


zens  of  Racine,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Diocese  of 
Wisconsin,  at  the  instance  of  the  lit.  Ilev.  Jackson  Kemper,  D.D.  The  site 
on  which  the  college  stands,  comprising  ten  acres  of  valuable  land,  was  given 
by  Charles  S.  and  Truman  Gr.  Wright.  The  college  was  incorporated  in  1852. 
The  first  Episcopal  clergyman  who  preached  in  Racine  was  Rev.  Lemuel  B. 
Hull,  of  Milwaukie,  in  the  spring  of  1840. 


Northern  view  of  Racine. 

The  above  shows  the  appearance  of  the  central  part  of  Racine,  as  entered  from  the  west.  The  swing 
bridge  over  Root  River  is  in  the  central  part.  The  eastern  terminus  of  the  Racine  and  Mississippi  Rail 
road  appears  on  the  left.  The  lake  is  a  few  rods  beyond  the  buildings  in  the  distance. 

In  1834,  Antoine  Ouilmette  caine,  with  his  Indian  family,  from  Grosse 
Point,  and  located  himself  one  mile  from  Racine.  In  November,  of  the  same 
year,  the  east  fractional  half  of  section  9,  was  claimed  by  Capt.  Knapp.  of 
Racine.  Gr.  S.  Hubbard,  of  Chicago,  and  J.  A.  Barker,  of  Buffalo,  surveyed 
and  laid  out  lots  in  1836.  The  Root  River  postoffice  was  established  in  the 
?.ame  year,  but  discontinued  in  May,  and  the  Racine  postoffice  established, 
Dr.  B.  B.  Carey  postmaster.  The  first  regular  inhabitants  located  themselves 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  first  house  of  worship  was  erected  by  the 
Presbyterians,  on  Wisconsin -street,  and  in  a  building  lately  used  as  a  school 
house.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Foot  was  the  first  minister.  The  first  school  is  be 
lieved  to  have  been  at  the  foot  of  Main-street,  near  the  river. 

Kenoslia,  the  county  seat  of  Kenosha,  the  most  southern  lake  port  of 
Wisconsin,  is  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  10  miles  S.  of  Rncine. 
It  has  a  good  harbor  and  piers.  It  commands  the  trade  of  one  of  the  finest 
farming  districts  of  the  west.  Two  small  creeks  empty  into  the  lake,  one 
above,  the  other  below  the  port.  Population  is  about  4,000. 

Kenosha  was  known  at  first  by  the  name  of  Pike  River.  In  1841,  it  was 
incorporated  a  village  by  the  name  of  Southport;  when  incorporated  a  city, 
in  1850,  it  received  the  name  of  Kenosha,  the  Indian  word  for  Pike.  In  Feb., 
1835,  a  company  was  organized  in  Hannibal,  Oswego  county,  N.  Y.,  under  the 
name  of  the  "Western  Emigration  Society,"  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a 
town  site  and  effecting  a  settlement  on  the  new  lands  of  the  west.  An  ex- 


WISCONSIN.  45] 

ploring  committee  being  appointed,  they  proceeded  to  the  west,  and  on  the 
6th  of  June  arrived  at  Pike  Creek,  where  they  selected  a  site  for  settlement. 
As  soon  as  the  news  of  the  selection  reached  Oswego  county,  about  fifteen 
families,  mostly  from  the  town  of  Hannibal,  came  on  during  the  summer  and 
fall  of  1835.  "  Eight  families,  members  of  the  company,  settled  at  Pike 
Creek,  viz:  David  Doolittle,  Waters  Towslee,  I.  G-.  Wilson,  Hudson  Bacon, 
David  Crossit,  Amos  Grattan,  Samuel  Resique,  and  Michael  Van  De  Bogart. 
These,  with  the  members  of  their  households,  thirty-two  persons  in  all,  com 
prised  the  population  of  Pike  Creek  during  the  first  winter  of  its  settlement. 
Their  habitations  were  rude  shanties,  built  of  logs  and  covered  with  bark. 
N.  R.  Allen  and  John  Bullen  erected  a  frame  building  in  the  fall  of  1835, 
being  the  first  frame  building  in  the  place ;  this  building,  however,  was  not 
completed  until  the  following  year;  it  was  located  on  the  lake  shore,  near 
the  south  pier  of  the  harbor." 

Janesville,  capital  of  Rock  county,  is  on  both  sides  of  Rock  River,  45 
miles  S.E.  of  Madison,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Milwaukie  and  Mississippi 
with  the  Fond  du  Lac  and  Rock  River  Railroad.  It  is  one  of  the  most  im 
portant  cities  in  the  state,  and  is  built  principally  on  a  level  plain  between 
the  river  and  the  bluffs,  which  are  about  100  feet  high.  It  has  several  large 
mills,  for  which  the  falls  of  the  river  at  this  point  afford  excellent  sites.  It 
is  the  center  of  an  active  and  increasing  trade.  It  was  settled  about  the  year 
1836,  and  incorporated  a  city  in  1853.  It  has  8  churches,  the  State  Institu 
tion  for  the  Blind,  and,  in  1860,  7,500  inhabitants. 

Bdoit,  a  few  miles  below  Janesville,  in  Rock  county,  on  the  railroad  from 
Chicago  to  Madison,  near  the  Illinois  state  line,  is  also  on  Rock  River,  which 
affords  power  for  manufactories  and  mills  of  every  description.  The  town 
was  incorporated  in  1845,  and  is  adorned  with  fine  churches  and  dwellings, 
spacious  streets,  and  is  the  seat  of  that  well  known  and  popular  institution, 
Beloit  College.  Population  about  5,000. 

Mineral  Point,  the  capital  of  Iowa  county,  is  47  miles  W.  S.W.  of  Madi 
son,  and  40  from  Galena,  Illinois.  It  stands  on  a  point  of  land  between  two 
small  streams,  and  is  in  the  heart  of  the  rich  lead  region.  Immense  quan 
tities  of  lead  are  exported  from  this  place,  which  is  a  point  of  active  busi 
ness,  and  has  about  3,000  inhabitants.  The  following  places  in  this  section, 
are  also  connected  with  mining  operations  :  Dodgeville,  Platteville,  Hazel 
Green,  Lancaster,  Highland,  Mifflin  and  Potosi.  The  last  named,  Potosi,  is 
on  Grant  River,  near  its  mouth,  15  miles  above  Dubuque,  and  is  the  princi 
pal  mineral  depot  of  Wisconsin,  large  quantities  of  lead  being  shipped  from 
here  in  steamboats.  Cassville,  28  miles  above  Dubuque,  on  the  Mississippi, 
is  another  important  shipping  point  for  lead. 

This  whole  region  is  rich  in  lead,  and  numerous  smelting  furnaces  are  in 
operation.  Many  lodes  of  mineral  have  been  worked  that  have  produced 
$100,000  clear  of  all  expenses.  The  price  of  mineral  in  1838  averaged 
about  $30  per  1,000  Ibs.  It  has  been  sold  as  high  as  $40,  and  as  low  as  $6. 
These  fluctuations  are  not  frequent,  and  a  fair  estimate  may  be  made  that 
mineral  will  not,  for  any  length  of  time,  be  less  than  $25. 

The  great  lead  region  of  the  north-west  lies  principally  in  this  state,  in 
cluding,  in  Wisconsin,  62  townships  of  its  south-western  corner,  about  10  in 
the  north-western  corner  of  Illinois,  and  about  8  in  Iowa.  Dr.  Owen,  in 
his  Report  of  the  Geology  of  Wisconsin,  says : 

"  This  lead  region  is,  in  general,  well  watered ;  namely,  by  the  Pekatonica,  Apple, 
Fever,  Platte  and  Grand  Rivers,  the  head-waters  of  the  Blue  River  and  ^M^ar 


452  WISCONSIN. 

Creek:  all  these  streams  being  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi.  Tho  northern  boun 
dary  of  the  Wisconsin  lead  region  is  nearly  coincident  with  the  southern  boundary 
line  of  the  blue  limestone,  where  it  fairly  emerges  to  the  surface.  No  discoveries 
of  any  importance  have  been  made  after  reaching  that  formation ;  and  when  a 
mine  is  sunk  through  the  cliff  limestone  to  the  blue  limestone  beneath,  the  lodes 
of  lead  shrink  into  insignificance,  and  no  longer  return  to  the  miner  a  profitable 
reward  for  his  labor. 

All  the  valuable  deposits  of  lead  ore,  which  have  as  yet  been  discovered,  occur 
either  in  fissures  or  rents  in  the  cliff  rock,  or  else  are  found  imbedded  in  the  recent 
deposits  which  overlie  these  rocks.  These  fissures  vary  in  thickness  from  a  wafer 
to  even  fifty  feet;  and  many  of  them  extend  to  a  very  great,  and  at  present  un 
known  depth.  Upon  the  whole,  a  review  of  the  resources  and  capabilities  of  this 
lead  region,  taken  in  connection  with  its  statistics  (in  so  far  as  it  was  possible 
to  collect  these),  induces  me  to  say,  with  confidence,  that  ten  thousand  miners 
could  find  profitable  employment  within  its  confines.  If  we  suppose  each  of  these 
to  raise  daily  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  ore,  during  six  months  of  each  year 
only,  they  would  produce  annually  upward  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions 
pounds  of  lead — more  than  is  now  furnished  by  the  entire  mines  of  Europe,  those 
of  Great  Britain  included.  This  estimate,  founded  upon  reasonable  data,  presents 
in  a  striking  point  of  view,  the  intrinsic  value  and  commercial  importance  of  the 
country  upon  which  I  am  reporting — emphatically  the  lead  region  of  northern 
America.  It  is,  so  far  as  my  reading  or  experience  extends,  decidedly  the  richest 
in  the  known  world." 

In  the  Reports  of  the  State  Historical  Society,  Mr.  Stephen  Taylor  has 
given  some  interesting  items  upon  the  origin  of  lead  mining  by  the  first  set 
tlers  of  the  country,  with  a  sketch  of  the  state  of  society  among  the  early 
miners.  Says  he : 

"For  some  time  prior  to  the  settlement  of  the  lead  mines,  the  miners,  under  the 
regulations  of  the  war  department,  were  licensed  to  explore  and  occupy  the  min 
eral  lands  in  that  region,  though  in  consequence  of  the  hostility  of  the  Indians  to 
the  explorations  and  encroachments  of  the  whites,  they  seldom  ventured  far  be 
yond  that  protection  which  numerical  strength  and  the  defensive  organizations 
near  Galena  secured. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1827,  upon  the  cessation  of  the  Winnebago  disturbances, 
that  the  more  daring  and  enterprising,  prompted  by  the  hope  of  discovering  vast 
mineral  treasures,  the  existence  of  which  over  a  wide  extent  of  territory,  the  many 
flattering  accounts  had  so  truthfully  pictured,  banded  together  in  well  armed 
squads,  overrun  the  country  prospecting  in  all  directions.  They  were  usually,  in 
those  times,  governed  by  certain  surface  indications,  the  most  infallible  of  which 
were  the  old  Indian  diggings,  which  were  found  in  almost  every  direction,  and 
their  locations  were  marked  by  the  many  small  aspen  groves  or  patches  indigenous 
to  the  upturned  clay  of  the  prairies  in  the  lead  region.  By  the  rude  and  super 
ficial  mode  of  excavation  by  the  red  men,  much  mineral  remained  in  the  diggings, 
as  well  as  among  the  rubbish;  mining  in  these  old  burrows,  therefore,  not  only  at 
once  justified  the  labor,  but  frequently  led  to  the  discovery  of  productive  mines. 
'Gravel  mineral,'  carbonized  so  as  to  be  scarcely  distinguished  from  water-worn 
pebbles,  and  occasionally  lumps  weighing  several  pounds,  were  exciting  evidences 
of  the  existence  of  larger  bodies  upon  the  highlands  in  the  vicinity.  The  amorpha 
canescens,  or  'masonic  weed,'  peculiar  to  the  whole  country,  when  found  in  a  clus 
ter  of  rank  growth,  also  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Indian  as  well  as  the  more 
experienced  miner,  as  it  was  supposed  to  indicate  great  depth  of  clay  or  the  exist 
ence  of  crevices  in  the  rock  beneath.  By  such  means  were  the  mineral  resources 
of  Wisconsin  explored  and  developed,  and  thus  was  the  manner  of  the  discovery 
of  the  productive  mines  at  Mineral  Point — a  piece  of  land  elevated  about  two 
hundred  feet,  narrowing  and  descending  to  a  point,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  val 
ley,  as  it  were — a  ravine  bounding  the  same  both  eastward  and  westward,  through 
which  tributaries  of  the  Pekatonica  River  flow,  uniting  in  a  wider  valley  to  the 
southward.  It  was  upon  this  point  that  the  'leads  were  struck,'  the  fame  of  which 
spread,  and  so  quickly  became  the  center  of  attraction,  the  miners  flocking  to  them 


WISCONSIN. 


453 


from  every  quarter.  Tt  was  customary,  upon  the  discovery  of  new  diggings,  to  dis 
tinguish  them  by  some  appellation,  so  this  locality,  on  account  of  its  peculiar  posi 
tion  and  shape,  was  formerly  called  'Mineral  Point,'  and  hence  the  name  of  the 
present  village,  the  nucleus  of  which  was  formed  by  the  erection  of  a  few  log 
cabins,  and  huts  built  with  square  cut  sods,  covered  in  with  poles,  prairie  grass 
and  earth.  These  very  comfortable  though  temporary  shelters  were  located  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  intersection  of  what  are  now  called  Commerce  and  High-streets,  at 
the  margin  of  the  westerly  ravine,  and  in  view  from  the  diggings  on  the  point. 

Females,  in  consequence  of  the  dangers  and  privations  of  those  primitive  times, 
were  as  rare  in  the  diggings  as  snakes  upon  the  Emerald  Isle,  consequently  the 
bachelor  miner,  from  necessity  performed  the  domestic  duties  of  cook  and  washer 
man,  and  the  preparation  of  meals  was  indicated  by  appending  a  rag  to  an  upright 
pole,  which,  fluttering  in  the  breeze,  telegraphically  conveyed  the  glad  tidings  to 
his  hungered  brethren  upon  the  hill.  Hence,  this  circumstance,  at  a  very  early 
date,  gave  the  provincial  sobriquet  of  'Shake  Rag'  or  'Shake  Rag  under  the  Hill,' 
which  that  part  of  the  now  flourishing  village  of  Mineral  Point,  lying  under  the 
hill,  has  acquired,  and  which  in  all  probability  it  will  ever  retain.  So  much  for 
the  origin  of  Mineral  Point.  I  will  now  venture  a  few  remarks  regarding  the 
manners  and  customs  of  its  inhabitants  in  days  of  yore. 

The  continued  prosperity  of  the  mines,  in  a  comparatively  brief  period,  increased 
the  population  of  the  village  to  several  hundred,  comprised,  as  is  usual  in  mineral 
regions,  of  representatives  from  every  clime  and  country,  and  in  such  conglomera 
tion,  it  is  fair  to  presume,  of  every  stripe  of  character.  This  increase  of  popula 
tion,  including  many  of  those  expert  in  the  'profession,'  warranted  the  establish 
ment  of  numerous  gambling  saloons,  groceries — a  refined  name  for  groggeries — 
and  other  like  places  of  dissipation  and  amusement,  where  the  unwary,  and  those 
flushed  with  success  in  digging,  could  be  'taken  in  and  done  for,'  or  avail  them 
selves  of  opportunities  voluntarily  to  dispose  of  their  accumulated  means,  either 
in  drowning  their  sorrows  in  the  bowl,  or  'fighting  the  tiger'  in  his  den. 

Notwithstanding  such  were  the  practices  almost  universally,  more  or  less,  in 
dulged  in  by  the  denizens,  yet  the  protracted  winters  in  this  then  secluded,  uncul 
tivated  and  sparsely  populated  country,  and,  for  that  reason,  the  absence  of  those 
more  reputable  enjoyments  which  mellow  and  refine  sociality  in  other  regions,  in 
a  measure  justified  a  moderate  participation  in  this  mode  of  driving  dull  cares 
away.  These  congenial  customs,  peculiarly  western,  were  as  firmly  based  as  the 
laws  which  governed  the  Medes  and  Persians,  and  wo  to  those,  from  lands  of 
steadier  habits,  who  would  endeavor  to  introduce  innovations  adverse  to  the  estab 
lished  policy  of  those  days !  Hence  the  propriety  and  necessity  of  harmonizing 
with,  and  following  in  the  trail  of  the  popular  will.  But  such,  T  am  happy  in  the 
conviction,  is  not  now  the  case — virtue,  in  the  progress  of  events,  has  naturally 
succeeded  profligacy,  and  Mineral  Point,  freed  from  contamination,  stands  re 
deemed  of  her  former  errors."* 

La  Crosse,  the  capital  of  La  Crosse  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  mouth  of  La  Crosse  River,  200  miles  N.W.  of  Milwaukie 
by  railroad,  and  303  miles  below  St.  Paul,  by  the  river.  It  contains  a  large 

*"  Among  the  most  distinguished  of  the  earliest  pioneers  of  Mineral  Point,  are  Col.  Robt. 
C.  Hoard,  Col.  Robert  S.  Black  (now  of  Dodgeville),  Col.  Henry  M.  Billings,  Col.  Daniel 
M.  Parkison,  Col.  Abner  Nichols,  Francis  Vivian,  Parley  Eaton,  Levi  Sterling,  Edward 
Beouchard,  Josiah  Tyack,  James  James,  Samuel  Thomas,  Mrs.  Hood,  Amzi  W.  Comfort, 
0.  P.  Williams  (now  of  Portage  City),  M.  V.  B.  Burris,  Milton  Bevans,  Peter  Hartman, 
John  F.  O'Neill,  William  Sublett,  John  Phillips,  John  Milton,  George  Cubbage,  James 
Hitching,  John  Caserly,  Edward  Coode,  and  William  Tregay.  And  the  following,  who 
have  since  paid  the  debt  of  nature,  viz:  Col.  John  D.  Ansley,  Col.  John  McNair,  Robert 
Dougherty,  Capt.  William  Henry,  Stephen  Terrill,  Mark  Terrill,  Dr.  Edward  McSherry,  Dr. 
Richard  Gk  Ridgley,  Nicholas  Uren,  Richard  Martin,  James  S.  Bowden,  John  Hood,  Lord 
Blaney,  Joseph  Sylvester,  Matthew  G.  Fitch,  Thomas  McKnight,  Stephen  B.  Thrasher, 
Robert  W.  Gray,  Joseph  Morrison,  James  Hugo,  Hugh  R.  Hunter,  Edward  James  (late  U. 
S.  Marshal),  William  Prideaux,  Joseph  James,  Benjamin  Salter,  and  "  Cadwallader,  the 
keg-inaker." 


454  WISCONSIN. 

number  of  saw  mills,  and  considerable  quantities  of  pine  lumber  are  munu 
factured.     It  is  a  place  of  rapid  increase  and  prosperity,  and  its  merchants 
transact  a  heavy  business  with  the  adjacent  country,  which  is  rapidly  filling 
up.     Population,  in  1853,  300 ;  and  in  1860,  about  4,000. 

The  place  possesses  peculiar  advantages  from  being  the  terminus  of  the 
Milwaukie  and  La  Crosse  Railroad.  "It  is  probably  the  most  northerly  east 
and  west  road  that  will  be  built  in  the  state  for  many  years,  and  has,  conse 
quently,  as  tributaries,  all  northern  Wisconsin,  west  of  Lake  Winnebago, 
with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  strip  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
the  greater  portion  of  Minnesota,  extending  far  away  to  the  Red  River  of 
the  North,  the  Sascatchawine,  and,  ultimately,  the  North  Pacific  Railroad." 

About  60  miles  above  La  Crosse  is  that  beautiful  expansion  of  the  Mississippi, 
known  to  all  travelers  as  Lake  Pepin.  For  about  25  miles  the  river  is  expanded 

to  a  width  of  from  two  to  three 
miles,  with  majestic  bluffs  of  lime 
stone  on  each  shore.  On  the  Wis 
consin  shore,  rising  about  two  hun 
dred  feet  above  the  water,  is  the 
noted  Maiden's  Rock,  the  scene 
of  the  Indian  legend  of  Winona, 
the  daughter  of  an  Indian  chief. 
She  was  betrothed  by  her  father 
to  a  favorite  warrior ;  but  her  af 
fections  were  fixed  on  one  younger 
though  not  less  brave.  On  the 
day  appointed  for  her  wedding,  she 

THE  MAIDED  ROCK,  wandered  from  the  gay  assemblage 

under  pretense  of    searching  lor 

On  Lake  Pepin,  an  expansion  of  the  Mississippi.  some  berries  that  grew  in  profu 

sion  on  this  bluff,  when  her  com 
panions,  to  their  surprise,  heard  from  her  lips  a  low,  plaintive  sound :  it  was  the 
death  song,  and  in  a  moment  more,  ere  they  could  interfere,  she  cast  herself  head 
long  from  the  rock,  and  was  buried  in  the  deep,  cold  waters  below. 

Prescott  and  Hudson  are  two  flourishing  towns  in  this  part  of  the  state. 
The  first  is  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Croix  River,  with  the  Mississippi — the 
last  on  that  expansion  of  the  St.  Croix,  called  Lake  St.  Croix. 

The  St.  Croix  River  which  separates  Wisconsin  from  Minnesota,  is  cele 
brated  for  its  pineries,  the  value  of  its  trade  in  lumber  exceeding  three  mil 
lions  of  dollars  per  annum. 

"  The  lumbermen  of  the  St.  Croix,  during  the  sessions  of  the  Wisconsin  and 
Minnesota  legislatures  of  1850-1,  procured  the  incorporation  of  the  'St.  Croix 
Boom  Company,'  with  a  capital  of  $10,000.  This  work  was  considered  absolutely 
necessary,  to  facilitate  the  business  of  driving,  assorting,  and  rafting  logs.  The 
stock  was  speedily  taken ;  and  by  the  following  season  the  boom  was  built  and 
ready  for  service.  The  work  is  substantial  and  permanent.  Piers  of  immense 
size  are  sunk  at  proper  distances,  from  the  Minnesota  shore  to  the  foot  of  a  large 
island  near  the  center  of  the  stream,  and  again  from  the  head  of  the  island  to  the 
Wisconsin  shore.  The  boom  timbers  are  hung  from  pier  to  pier,  and  the  whole 
river  is  entirely  commanded,  with  no  possibility  of  scarcely  a  single  log  escaping. 
The  charter  of  the  company  compels  them,  however,  to  give  free  passage  to  all 
boats,  rafts,  etc.,  ascending  or  descending  the  river.  This  duty  is  rather  difficult 
to  perform  at  certain  times,  particularly  when  the  logs  are  running  into  the  boom 
briskly,  and  hands  are  not  to  be  had  to  raft  and  run  them  out:  sometimes  a  barrier 
of  three  or  four  miles  intervene,  and  thus  temporarily  closes  navigation.  With  a 
full  complement  of  men  the  boom  can  always  be  kept  clear  at  the  point  where  it 
crosses  the  main  channel  of  the  river.  The  importance  of  the  lumber  business  of 
the  St.  Croix  River  would  hardly  be  estimated  by  a  stranger.  Large  quantities  are 


WISCONSIN  455 

floated  down  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Louis.  The  business  of  getting  out  the  timber 
is  carried  on  in  the  winter,  and  affords  employment  to  large  numbers  of  young 
men. 

Fond  du  Lac,  the  capital  of  Fond  du  Lac  county,  is  72  miles  N.N.W.  of 
Milwaukie,  with  which  it  has  railroad  connections.  It  stands  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  Lake  Winnebago,  the  largest  of  the  inland  lakes  of  the  state, 
being  about  30  miles  long  and  10  broad,  forming  a  link  in  the  chain  of  nav 
igable  waters  which  connect  the  Great  Lakes  with  the  Mississippi.  The 
Portage  Canal,  on  this  water  way,  between  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin  Rivers,  was 
opened  in  1856,  and  steamers  pass  from  the  lake  to  the  Wisconsin  River. 
Anciently  it  was  a  French  trading  post,  established  here  for  the  purpose  of 
traffic  with  the  Winnebagoes,  who  had  a  village  where  Taychudah  now  is, 
three  miles  east  of  the  site  of  the  place.  The  town  has  grown  up  within  a 
very  few  years.  Population  1860,  5,450. 

A  traveler  her,e  in  the  fall  of  1859,  discourses  thus  agreeably  upon  the 
town  and  country: 

"I  like  the  west,  and  especially  Wisconsin.  The  country  has  captivated  me — 
the  prairies,  the  pure  air,  clear  sky,  fine  farms,  the  perfectly  rural  air  of  the  whole 
and  the  hospitality  of  the  people.  What  splendid  farming  land  around  Fond  du 
Lac — how  easy  to  till  to  a  New  England  farmer;  smooth  fields  without  a  rock, 
scarce  a  stone,  that  when  first  cultivated  yield  40  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre,  and 
afterward  18  or  20;  garden  ground  unequaled  for  vegetables,  and  a  good  market  in 
the  city  for  all  that  is  for  sale.  Corn  planted  in  June  ripens  before  the  last  of 
August.  Apples,  pears,  grapes  and  plums  thrive  well,  and  all  the  small  fruits  yield 
abundantly.  Here  is  a  wild  plum  of  tine  flavor,  and  much  used  to  make  a  sauce 
for  meat,  with  spices  added.  All  the  fruit  trees  1  saw  looked  healthy  and  vigorous, 
and  free  from  the  ravages  of  insects. 

The  winters  are  longer  than  ours,  and  the  thermometer  indicates  greater  cold, 
but  residents  say  the  cold  is  not  so  severe  as  at  the  east,  from  the  absence  of  wind. 
Long  storms  are  very  uncommon,  and  a  clear  air  and  bright  sun  belong  to  their 
winter,  and  the  dry,  pure  atmosphere  render  this  climate  advantageous  to  those 
afflicted  with  pulmonary  complaints.  It  seemed  to  me  especially  good  for  nervous 
people  and  those  troubled  with  neuralgic  pains.  Fever  and  ague  are  not  known 
here;  accounts  of  its  good  effects  in  consumptive  cases  are  authenticated. 

Fond  du  Lac,  the  city  of  fountains,  named  from  the  Artesian  wells  which  supply 
it  with  water,  bears  the  promise  of  a  great  city.  The  site  is  part  prairie  and  part 
woodland,  a  river  dividing  it.  Twelve  years  ago  it  had  but  one  chimney,  and  the 
pockets  of  most  of  its  early  settlers,  were  as  deficient  in  means  as  the  houses  of 
this  most  necessary  appurtenance;  now  it  has  a  population  of  thousands,  churches 
of  various  kinds,  some  fine  stores,  and  one  especially  fine  block,  containing  a  hall 
which  is  said  to  be  the  handsomest  in  the  west,  and  capable  of  accommodating 
three  thousand  people.  The  hall  has  a  center  dome  of  stained  glass,  and  the  effect 
is  very  pleasing.  From  the  top  of  the  building  an  incomparable  view  is  to  be  had 
of  the  city,  lake,  prairie,  river  and  woods.  The  foreign  element  here  is  German, 
and  an  intelligent  class  of  people,  obedient  to  law,  and  comprehending  the  oppor 
tunities  a  free  country  offers  to  them  and  their  children.  The  people  look  healthy 
and  happy, 'and  there  is  an  appearance  of  comfort  and  thrift  about  them  and  their 
dwellings.  There  are  no  showy  houses,  but  neat,  well-arranged  buildings,  with 
yards,  in  which  stand  the  forest  trees  found  there,  and  enlivened  by  flowers  and 
shrubs.  The  settlers  have  shown  a  taste  and  respect  for  the  forest  trees  leaving 
them  unmolested,  and  clumps  of  oaks  and  hickories  in  the  cultivated  fields  are 
pleasant  to  look  upon,  and  their  shade  must  delight  the  cattle  in  summer.  The 
beauty  of  this  country  is  indescribable,  the  whole  having  the  appearance  of  a  well 
cared  for  park. 

A  ridge  of  limestone  runs  from  Green  Bay  to  the  end  of  Lake  Michigan,  numer 
ous  streams  run  from  this,  and  vast  quantities  of  limestone  slabs  ready  for  use  can 
be  taken  from  the  quarries  and  furnished  to  the  city  at  two  cents  a  square  foot 


456  WISCONSIN. 

Gravel  is  abundant  and  accessible,  and  the  city  is  removing  the  planks  from  the 
road,  laying  on  gravel,  and  will  in  time  have  fine  sidewalks  and  good  roads.  On 
this  ridge  are  some  fine  farms,  and  the  aspect  of  the  country  reminds  me  of 
Dutch  ess  county,  New  York.  From  the  high  peaks,  views  of  the  city,  prairie  and 
lake  are  to  be  had,  and  in  the  clear  air  everything  is  so  distinct  that  the  eye  seeks 
in  vain  for  the  horizon." 

Oshkosh,  is  named  from  an  Indian  chief  of  the  Menomonee  tribe,  the  word 
signifying  "brave."  It  is  a  thriving  city,  with  great  facilities  for  trade, 
where  but  a  few  years  since  all  was  a  dense  wilderness.  It  stands  on  the 
western  bank  of  Lake  Winnebago,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fox  River,  and 
has  railroad  connections  with  the  east,  west  and  south.  The  city  con 
tains  6  churches,  4  newspapers,  a  large  number  of  grist  and  other  mills, 
manufactures  annually  about  30  millions  of  feet  of  lumber,  and  has  about 
6,000  inhabitants. 

When  the  Fox  River  Improvement  is  completed,  this  city  will  be  on  the 
direct  line  of  steamboat  navigation  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Missis 
sippi.  This  enterprise  is  described  as  follows  in  Ritchie's  work  on  the  state : 

"  The  Fox  River,  or,  as  it  is  called  by  the  Indians,  Neenah,  is  one  of  the  most 
important  rivers  in  the  state.  It  rises  in  Marquette  county,  and  flows  nearly  south 
west,  toward  the  Wisconsin ;  when  within  one  and  a  half  miles  of  that  river,  it 
changes  its  direction  to  the  north;  after  flowing  a  few  miles,  it  passes  through  Lake 
Winnebago,  and  falls  into  Green  Bay.  Its  whole  length  is  estimated  at  two  hun 
dred  miles. 

The  whole  length  of  canal  necessary  to  secure  a  steamboat  communication  from 
Green  Bay  to  Lake  Winnebago,  is  about  five  miles.  It  is  100  feet  wide  on  the  bot 
tom,  and  120  at  the  top  (two  feet  wider  than  the  famous  Welland  Canal).  The 
locks  are  40  feet  wide,  by  160  long,  and  built  in  the  most  permanent  manner,  of 
solid  stone  masonry,  and  in  a  style  that  will  not  suffer  in  comparison  with  any 
similar  work  in  the  eastern  states.  It  is  calculated  that  with  the  improved  manner  of 
working  these  locks,  a  steamer  can  pass  each  in  the  short  space  of  three  minutes. 
This  will  afford  a  rapid  transit  for  the  vast  amount  of  freight  that  must  and  will 
seek  an  outlet  through  this  thoroughfare  to  an  eastern  market.  The  capacity  of 
the  river  for  all  purposes  of  navigation  is  undoubted;  at  no  season  of  the  year  can 
there  be  any  failure  of  water. 

Twelve  miles  above  Oshkosh,  westward,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Wolf  River,  a  trib 
utary  of  the  Fox,  and  navigable  for  steamers  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 
Forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Wolf  River  is  the  town  of  Berlin;  sixty  miles 
further  is  Portage  City  and  the  town  of  Fort  Winnebago;  above  which  places,  for 
sixty  miles,  and  below  for  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles,  the  Wisconsin  is  now 
navigable  for  steamers. 

Through  these,  a  ready  communication  will  be  secured  with  the  Mississippi  and 
its  tributaries ;  and  it  is  confidently  calculated  that,  at  no  distant  day,  steam  tugs, 
with  between  200  and  500  tuns  burden  in  tow,  each,  from  St.  Peter's  River,  from 
St.  Paul,  and  other  places  in  that  direction,  will  land  their  cargoes  at  Green  Bay, 
to  be  shipped  to  an  eastern  market.  The  objection  to  be  urged  to  this  route,  from 
so  remote  a  locality,  is,  that  it  will  take  too  long  to  make  the  transit.  To  this  we 
have  to  reply,  that  it  is  estimated  by  those  who  know  better  than  we,  that  this 
great  distance  can  and  will  be  overcome  by  just  these  kinds  of  crafts  in  from  four 
to  six  days,  and  by  passenger  boats  in  much  less  time.  This  improvement  will 
open  about  1,000  miles  to  steam  navigation,  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mis 
sissippi  River,  including  the  navigable  streams  in  the  interior  of  northern  Wiscon 
sin,  Iowa  and  Minnesota.  This  stupendous  work,  when  completed,  will  do  far 
more  for  the  prosperity  and  advancement  of  the  vast  regions,  opened  to  the  ad 
vantages  of  connection  with  the  Atlantic  market,  than  any  other  improvement  con 
templated." 

PORTAGE  CITY  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Wisconsin  River,  about 
200  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  on  the  ship  canal  one  and  a  half  miles  long, 


WISCONSIN.  457 

connecting  it  with  the  Fox  or  Neenah  River.  It  is  a  flourishing  town,  and 
is  a  great  depot  for  pine  lumber.  By  means  of  the  Wisconsin  and  Missis 
sippi  Rivers,  there  is  now  uninterrupted  steamboat  navigation  between  this 
place  and  New  Orleans.  The  Wisconsin  is  the  largest  river  that  intersects 

the  state.  Its  whole  length  is 
estimated  at  600  miles,  and  in 
its  upper  portion  it  is  bordered 
by  immense  forests  of  pine. 
Fort  Winnebago,  which  stood 
on  or  near  the  site  of  Portage 
City,  was  commenced  in  1828. 
under  the  superintendence  of 
Major  Twiggs  and  Captain  Har- 
ney.  This  Twiggs  was  the 
Gen.  David  Twiggs  who  reaped 

FOBT  W»»«AGO  IN  1831.  ete™al  infamy  by  his  base  sur 

render  of  the  American  army, 

in  Texas,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Rebellion.  It  was  an  important  post  at  an 
early  day,  affording  protection  to  emigrants.  Another  officer,  here  at  that 
period,  was  a  young  lieutenant,  Jefferson  Davis  of  Mississippi,  who  after 
ward  became  the  president  of  the  so-called  Confederate  States  of  America. 

Mrs.  John  H.  Kinzie,  in  "  Wau-bun,  the  'Early  Day'  in  the  North-west," 
gives  a  graphic  narrative  of  her  experiences  at  Fort  Winnebago,  where  she 
passed  the  winter  of  1830-31,  the  first  months  of  her  wedded  life.  This 
winter  was  one  of  unusual  severity,  and  in  some  parts  of  the  country,  par 
ticularly  the  lead  mining  district,  the  snow  was  of  an  unheard  of  depth — 
five  or  six  feet  upon  a  level.  Toward  the  beginning  of  March  the  weather 
moderated,  and  Mrs.  Kinzie  prepared  to  make  a  journey  on  horseback  to 
Chicago  with  her  husband.  This  was  then  through  a  wilderness  country,  and 
the  undertaking  so  perilous  that  the  commandant,  Major  Twiggs,  endeavored 
to  dissuade  them  from  it :  but  the  brave-hearted,  high  spirited  young 
woman  remained  resolute.  The  story  of  their  experience  by  the  way,  we 
abridge  from  Mrs.  Kinzie's  narrative.  The  route  selected  was  south  by 
Dixon's,  then  called  Ogie's  Ferry,  where  was  to  be  found  the  only  means  of 
crossing  the  broad  and  rapid  stream  of  Rock  River ;  and  it  was  calculated 
that  the  entire  distance  would  be  traveled  over  in  six  days : 

The  morning  of  the  8th  of  March,  having  taken  a  tender  leave  of  their  friends, 
they  mounted  and  were  ready  for  the  journey.  The  party  consisted  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Kinzie  and  two  French  Canadians,  Pierre  Roy  and  Plante,  the  latter  to  act 
as  a  guide,  on  the  assurance  that  he  "  knew  every  mile  of  the  way,  from  the  Portage 
to  Ogie's  Ferry,  and  from  Ogie's  Ferry  to  Chicago. 

Some  of  the  young  officers  escorted  them  as  far  as  Duck  Creek,  four  miles  dis 
tant.  In  attempting  to  cross  this  stream  in  a  canoe,  a  couple  of  favorite  grey 
hounds  sprang  in  upon  Mrs.  Kinzie,  and  the  canoe  balanced  a  moment — then 
yielded — and  quick  as  thought,  dogs  and  lady  were  in  deepest  of  water.  That  even 
ing  the  party  camped  out  on  the  edge  of  the  timber,  under  the  shelter  of  a  tent; 
but  so  intense  was  the  cold  that,  although  Mrs.  Kinzie's  riding  habit  was  placed  to 
dry  over  against  the  log  on  which  their  fire  was  made,  it  was  in  a  few  minutes 
frozen  so  stiff  'as  to  stand  upright,  giving  "  the  appearance  of  a  dress  out  of  which 
a  lady  had  vanished  in  some  unaccountable  manner."  Says  Mrs.  Kinzie: 

"At  break  of  day  we  are  aroused  by  the  shout  of  'the  bourgeois,' 

'  How !  how !  how ! ' 


458  WISCONSIN. 

All  start  from  their  slumbers.  The  fire  which  has  been  occasionally  replenished 
through  the  night,  is  soon  kindled  into  a  flame.  The  horses  are  caught  and  saddled 
while  a  breakfast  is  preparing — the  tent  is  struck — the  pack-horse  loaded — '  tout 
demanche,'  as  the  Canadian  says. 

Our  journey  this  day  led  us  past  the  first  of  the  Four  Lakes.  Scattered  along 
its  banks  was  an  encampment  of  Winnebagoes.  How  beautiful  the  encampment 
looked  in  the  morning  sun!  The  matted  lodges,  with  the  blue  smoke  curling  from 
their  tops — the  trees  and  bushes  powdered  with  a  light  snow  which  had  fallen 
through  the  night — the  lake,  shining  and  sparkling,  almost  at  our  feet — even  the 
Indians,  in  their  peculiar  costume,  adding  to  the  picturesque ! 

Our  road,  after  leaving  the  lake,  lay  over  a  '  rolling  prairie,'  now  bare  and  deso 
late  enough.  The  hollows  were  filled  with  snow,  which,  being  partly  thawed,  fur 
nished  an  uncertain  footing  for  the  horses,  and  I  could  not  but  join  in  the  ringing 
laughter  of  our  Frenchmen,  as  occasionally  Brunet  and  Souris,  the  two  ponies, 
would  flounder,  almost  imbedded,  through  the  yielding  mass.  It  was  about  the 
middle  of  the  afternoon  when  we  reached  the  '  Blue  Mound.'  I  rejoiced  much  to 


band  attempted  to  lift  me  from  the  saddle,  I  fell  into  his  arms.  4  This  will  never 
do,'  said  he.  '  To-rnorrow  we  must  turn  our  faces  toward  Fort  Winnebago  again.' 

The  door  opened  hospitably  to  receive  us.  We  were  welcomed  by  a  lady  with 
a  most  sweet,  benignant  countenance,  and  by  her  companion,  some  years  younger. 
The  first  was  Mrs.  Morrison — the  other,  Miss  Elizabeth  Dodge,  daughter  of  Gen. 
Dodge. 

My  husband  laid  me  upon  a  small  bed,  in  the  room  where  the  ladies  had  been 
sitting  at  work.  They  took  off  my  bonnet  and  riding-dress,  chafed  my  hands,  and 
prepared  me  some  warm  wine  and  water,  by  which  I  was  soon  revived.  A  half 
hour's  repose  so  refreshed  me  that  I  was  able  to  converse  with  the  ladies,  and  to 
relieve  my  husband's  mind  of  all  anxiety  on  my  account.  Tea  was  announced  soon 
after,  and  we  repaired  to  an  adjoining  building,  for  Morrison's,  like  the  establish 
ment  of  all  settlers  of  that  period,  consisted  of  a  group  of  detached  log-houses  or 
cabins,  each  containing  one  or  at  most  two  apartments. 

The  table  groaned  with  good  cheer,  and  brought  to  mind  some  that  I  had  seen 
among  the  old-fashioned  Dutch  residents  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson. 

I  had  recovered  my  spirits,  and  we  were  quite  a  cheerful  party.  Mrs.  Morrison 
told  us  that  during  the  first  eighteen  months  she  passed  in  this  country,  she  did 
not  speak  with  a  white  woman,  the  only  society  she  had  being  that  of  her  husband 
and  two  black  servant  women. 

The  next  morning,  after  a  cheerful  breakfast,  at  which  we  were  joined  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Kent,  of  Galena,  we  prepared  for  our  journey.  I  had  reconciled  my  hus 
band  to  continuing  our  route  toward  Chicago,  by  assuring  him  that  I  felt  as  fresh 
and  bright  as  when  I  first  set  out  from  home. 

We  had  not  proceeded  many  miles  on  our  journey,  however,  before  we  discovered 
that  Monsieur  rlante  was  profoundly  ignorant  of  the  country,  so  that  Mr.  Kinzie 
was  obliged  to  take  the  lead  himself,  and  make  his  way  as  he  was  best  able,  accord 
ing  to  the  directions  he  had  received.  We  traveled  the  live-long  day,  barely  making 
a  halt  at  noon  to  bait  our  horses,  and  refresh  ourselves  with  a  luncheon.  The  ride 
was  as  gloomy  and  desolate  as  could  well  be  imagined.  A  rolling  prairie,  unvaried 
by  forest  or  stream — hillock  rising  after  hillock,  at  every  ascent  of  which  we  vainly 
hoped  to  see  a  distant  fringe  of  '  timber.1  But  the  same  cheerless,  unbounded  pros 
pect  everywhere  met  the  eye,  diversified  only  here  and  there  by  the  oblong  open 
ings,  like  gigantic  graves,  which  marked  an  unsuccessful  search  for  indications  of 
a  lead  mine. 

Just  before  sunset  we  crossed,  with  considerable  difficulty,  a  muddy  stream, 
which  was  bordered  by  a  scanty  belt  of  trees,  making  a  tolerable  encarnping-ground ; 
and  of  this  we  gladly  availed  ourselves,  although  we  knew  not  whether  it  was  near 
or  remote  from  the  place  we  were  in  search  of. 

We  had  ridden  at  least  fifty  miles  since  leaving  'Morrison's,'  yet  I  was  sensible 
of  very  little  fatigue;  but  there  was  a  vague  feeling  of  discomfort  at  the  idea  of 


WISCONSIN.  459 

being  lost  in  this  wild,  cold  region,  altogether  different  from  anything  I  had  ever 
before  experienced. 

The  exertions  of  the  men  soon  made  our  'camp'  comfortable,  notwithstanding 
the  difficulty  of  driving  the  tent-pins  into  the  frozen  ground,  and  the  want  of  trees 
sufficiently  large  to  make  a  rousing  fire.  The  wind,  which  at  bed-time  was  suf 
ficiently  high  to  be  uncomfortable,  increased  during  the  night.  It  snowed  heavily 
and  we  were  every  moment  in  dread  that  the  tent  would  be  carried  away;  but  the 
matter  was  settled  in  the  midst  by  the  snapping  of  the  poles,  and  the  falling  of  the 
whole,  with  its  superincumbent  weight  of  snow,  in  a  mass  upon  us. 

The  next  morning  the  horses  were  once  more  saddled  for  our  journey.  The 
prospect  was  not  an  encouraging  one.  Around  us  was  an  unbroken  sheet  of  snow. 
We  had  no  compass,  and  the  air  was  so  obscured  by  the  driving  sleet,  that  it  was 
often  impossible  to  tell  in  what  direction  the  sun  was.  I  tied  my  husband's  silk 
pocket  handkerchief  over  my  veil,  to  protect  my  face  from  the  wind  and  icy  parti 
cles  with  which  the  air  was  filled,  and  which  cut  like  a  razor;  but  although  shielded 
in  every  way  that  circumstances  rendered  possible,  I  suffered  intensely  from  the 
cold.  We  pursued  our  way,  mile  after  mile,  entering  every  point  of  woods,  in 
hopes  of  meeting  with,  at  least,  some  Indian  wigwam,  at  which  we  could  gain  in 
telligence.  Every  spot  was  solitary  and  deserted,  not  even  the  trace  of  a  recent 
fire,  to  cheer  us  with  the  hope  of  human  beings  within  miles  of  us.  Suddenly,  a 
shout  from  the  foremost  of  the  party  made  each  heart  bound  with  joy. 

'  Une  cloturel  une  cloture !' — (a  fence,  a  fence.) 

It  was  almost  like  life  to  the  dead.  We  spurred  on,  and  indeed  perceived  a  few 
straggling  rails  crowning  a  rising  ground  at  no  great  distance.  Never  did  music 
sound  so  sweet  as  the  crowing  of  a  cock  which  at  this  moment  saluted  our  ears. 
Following  the  course  of  the  inclosure  down  the  opposite  slope,  we  came  upon  a 
group  of  log-cabins,  low,  shabby,  and  unpromising  in  their  appearance,  but  a  most 
welcome  shelter  from  the  pelting  storm.  'Whose  cabins  are  these?'  asked  Mr. 
Kinzie  of  a  man  who  was  cutting  wood  at  the  door  of  one.  'Hamilton's,'  was  the 
reply;  and  he  stepped  forward  at  once  to  assist  us  to  alight,  hospitality  being  a 
matter  of  course  in  these  wild  regions. 

We  were  shown  into  the  most  comfortable  looking  of  the  buildings.  A  large 
fire  was  burning  in  the  clay  chimney,  and  the  room  was  of  a  genial  warmth,  not 
withstanding  the  apertures,  many  inches  in  width,  beside  the  doors  and  windows. 
A  woman  in  a  tidy  calico  dress,  and  shabby  black  silk  cap,  trimmed  with  still 
shabbier  lace,  rose  from  her  seat  beside  a  sort  of  bread-trough,  which  fulfilled  the 
office  of  cradle  to  a  fine,  fat  baby. 

Before  dinner  Mr.  Hamilton  came  in  and  was  introduced  to  me,  and  was  as 
agreeable  and  polite  as  the  son  of  Alexander  Hamilton  would  naturally  be.  The 
housekeeper,  who  was  the  wife  of  one  of  the  miners,  prepared  us  a  plain  comfort 
able  dinner.  The  blowing  of  a  horn  was  the  signal  for  the  entrance  of  ten  or 
twelve  miners,  who  took  their  places  below  us  at  the  table.  They  were  the  rough 
est  looking  set  of  men  1  ever  beheld,  and  their  language  was  as  uncouth  as  their 
persons.  They  wore  hunting  shirts,  trowsers,  and  moccasins  of  deerskinr  the  for 
mer  being  ornamented  at  the  searns  with  a  fringe  of  the  same,  while  a  colored  belt 
around  the  waist,  in  which  was  stuck  a  large  hunting-knife,  gave  each  the  appear 
ance  of  a  brigand. 

Mr.  Hamilton  passed  most  of  the  afternoon  with  us,  for  the  storm  raged  so  with 
out  that  to  proceed  on  our  journey  was  out  of  the  question.  He  gave  us  many 
pleasant  anecdotes  and  reminiscences  of  his  early  life  in  New  York,  and  of  his  ad 
ventures  since  he  had  come  to  the  western  wilderness.  When  obliged  to  leave  us 
for  a  while,  he  furnished  us  with  some  books  to  entertain  us,  the  most  interesting 
of  which  was  the  biography  of  his  father. 

The  next  day's  sun  rose  clear  and  bright.  Refreshed  and  invigorated,  we  looked 
forward  with  pleasure  to  a  recommencement  of  our  journey,  confident  of  meeting 
no  more  mishaps  by  the  way.  Mr.  Hamilton  kindly  offered  to  accompany  us  to 
his  next  neighbor's,  the  trifling  distance  of  twenty-five  miles.  The  miner  who  owned 
the  wife  and  baby,  and  who,  consequently,  was  somewhat  more  humanized  than 
his  comrades,  in  taking  leave  of  us  '  wished  us  well  out  of  the  country,  and  that 
we  might  never  have  occasion  to  return  to  it !  I  pity  a  body,'  said  he,  '  when  I 


460  WISCONSIN. 

see  them  making  such  an  awful  mistake  as  to  come  out  this  way,  for  comfort  never 
touched  this  western  country.' 

There  was  no  halting  upon  the  route,  and  as  we  kept  the  same  pace  until  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  it  was  beyond  a  question  that  when  we  reached  '  Kellogg's,' 
we  had  traveled  at  least  thirty  miles.  'Kellogg's '  was  a  comfortable  mansion,  just 
within  the  verge  of  a  pleasant  'grove  of  timber,'  as  a  small  forest  is  called  b>  west 
ern  travelers.  We  found  Mrs.  Kellogg  a  very  respectable  looking  matron,  who  soon 
informed  us  she  was  from  the  City  of  New  York.  She  appeared  proud  and  de 
lighted  to  entertain  Mr.  Hamilton,  for  whose  family,  she  took  occasion  to  tell  us, 
she  had,  in  former  days,  been  in  the  habit  of  doing  needle-work.  We  had  intended 
to  go  to  Dixon's  the  same  afternoon,  but  the  snow  beginning  again  to  fall,  obliged 
us  to  content  ourselves  where  we  were.  In  the  meantime,  finding  we  were  jour 
neying  to  Chicago,  Mr.  Kellogg  came  to  the  determination  to  accompany  us,  hav 
ing,  as  he  said  some  business  to  accomplish  at  that  place. 

No  great  time  was  required  for  Mr.  Kellogg's  preparations.  He  would  take,  he 
said,  only  two  days'  provisions,  for  at  his  brother-in-law  Dixon's  we  should  get  our 
supper  and  breakfast,  and  the  route  from  there  to  Chicago  could,  he  well  knew,  be 
accomplished  in  a  day  and  a  half.  Although,  according  to  this  calculation,  we  had 
sufficient  remaining  of  our  stores  to  carry  us  to  the  end  of  our  journey,  yet  Mr. 
Kinzie  took  the  precaution  of  begging  Mrs.  Kellogg  to  bake  us  another  bag  of  bis 
cuits,  in  case  of  accidents,  and  he  likewise  suggested  to  Mr.  K.  the  prudence  of 
furnishing  himself  with  something  more  than  his  limited  allowance;  but  the  good 
man  objected  that  he  was  unwilling  to  burden  his  horse  more  than  was  absolutely 
necessary.  It  will  be  seen  that  we  had  reason  to  rejoice  in  our  own  foresight. 

It  was  late  on  the  following  day,  when  we  took  leave  of  our  kind  hostess.  We 
journeyed  pleasantly  along  through  a  country,  beautiful  in  spite  of  its  wintry  ap 
pearance.  Just  at  sunset,  we  reached  the  dark,  rapid  waters  of  the  Rock  River. 
All  being  safely  got  across,  a  short  walk  brought  us  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Dixon. 
We  were  ushered  into  Mrs.  Dixon's  sitting-room;  and  seated  by  a  glowing  fire, 
while  Mrs.  Dixon  busied  herself  in  preparing  us  a  nice  supper,  I  felt  that  the  com 
fort  overbalanced  the  inconvenience  of  such  a  journey. 

A  most  savory  supper  of  ducks  and  venison,  with  their  accompaniments,  soon 
smoked  upon  the  board,  and  we  did  ample  justice  to  it.  Traveling  is  a  great  sharp 
ener  of  the  appetite,  and  so  is  cheerfulness,  and  the  latter  was  increased  by  the 
encouraging  account  Mr.  Dixon  gave  us  of  the  remainder  of  the  route  yet  before 
us.  '  There  is  no  difficulty,'  said  he,  '  if  you  keep  a  little  to  the  north,  and  strike 
the  great  Sank  trail.  If  you  get  too  far  to  the  south,  you  will  come  upon  the  Win- 
nebago  Swamp,  and  once  in  that,  there  is  no  telling  when  you  will  ever  get  out 
again.  As  for  the  distance,  it  is  nothing  at  all  to  speak  of 

The  following  morning,  which  was  a  bright  and  lovely  one  for  that  season  of  the 
year,  we  took  leave  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dixon,  in  high  spirits.  We  traveled  for  the 
first  few  miles  along  the  beautiful,  undulating  banks  of  Rock  River,  always  in  an 
easterly  direction,  keeping  the  beaten  path,  or  rather  road,  which  led  to  Fort  Clark 
or  Peoria.  The  Sauk  trail,  we  had  been  told,  would  cross  this  road,  at  the  distance 
of  about  six  miles.  After  having  traveled,  as  we  judged,  fully  that  distance,  we 
came  upon  a  trail,  bearing  north-east,  which  we  followed  till  it  brought  us  to  the 
great  bend  of  the  river  with  its  bold  rocky  bluffs,  when,  convinced  of  our  mistake, 
we  struck  off  from  the  trail,  in  a  direction  as  nearly  east  as  possible.  The  weather 
had  changed  and  become  intensely  cold,  and  we  felt  that  the  detention  we  had  met 
with,  even  should  we  now  be  in  the  right  road,  was  no  trifling  matter.  But  we 
were  buoyed  up  by  the  hope  that  we  were  in  the  right  path  at  last,  and  we  jour 
neyed  on  until  night,  when  we  reached  a  comfortable  'encampment,'  in  the  edge 
of  *a  urove  near  a  small  stream. 

We  were  roused  at  peep  of  day  to  make  preparations  for  starting.  We  must 
find  the  Sauk  trail  this  day  at  all  hazards.  What  would  become  of  us  should  we 
fail  to  do  so  ?  It  was  a  question  no  one  liked  to  ask,  and  certainly  one  that  none 
could  have  answered.  On  leaving  our  encampment,  we  found  ourselves  entering 
a  marshy  tract  of  country.  Myriads  of  wild  geese,  brant,  and  ducks  rose  up 
screaming  at  our  approach.  The  more  distant  lakes  and  ponds  were  black  with 
them,  but  the  shallow  water  through  which  we  attempted  to  make  our  way  was 


WISCONSIN.  461 

frozen  by  the  severity  of  the  night,  to  a  thickness  not  sufficient  to  bear  the  horses, 
but  just  such  as  to  cut  their  feet  and  ankles  at  every  step  as  they  broke  through  it. 
Sometimes  the  difficulty  of  going  forward  was  so  great  that  we  were  obliged  to  re 
trace  our  steps  and  make  our  way  round  the  head  of  the  marsh. 

This  swampy  region  at  length  passed,  we  came  upon  more  solid  ground,  chiefly 
the  open  prairie.  But  now  a  new  trouble  assailed  us.  The  weather  had  moderated, 
and  a  blinding  snow  storm  came  on.  Without  a  trail  that  we  could  rely  upon,  and 
destitute  of  a  compass,  our  only  dependence  had  been  the  sun  to  point  out  our  di 
rection,  but  the  atmosphere  was  now  so  obscure  that  it  was  impossible  to  tell  in 
what  quarter  of  the  heavens  he  was.  We  pursued  our  way,  however,  and  a  devious 
one  it  must  have  been.  After  traveling  in  this  way  many  miles,  we  came  upon  an 
Indian  trail,  deeply  indented,  running  at  right  angles  with  the  course  we  were 
pursuing.  The  snow  had  ceased,  and  the  clouds  becoming  thinner,  we  were  able 
to  observe  the  direction  of  the  sun,  and  to  perceive  that  the  trail  ran  north  and 
south.  What  should  we  do  ?  Was  it  safest  to  pursue  our  easterly  course,  or  was 
it  probable  that  by  following  this  new  path  we  should  fall  into  the  direct  one  we 
had  been  so  long  seeking?  If  we  decided  to  take  the  trail,  should  we  go  north  or 
south  ?  Mr.  Kinzie  was  for  the  latter.  He  was  of  opinion  that  we  were  still  too 
far  north.  Finding  himself  in  the  minority,  my  husband  yielded,  and  we  turned 
our  horses'  heads  north,  much  against  his  will.  After  proceeding  a  few  miles, 
however,  he  took  a  sudden  determination.  'You  may  go  north,  if  you  please,'  said 
he,  '  but  I  am  convinced  that  the  other  course  is  right,  and  I  shall  face  about — fol 
low  who  will.'  So  we  wheeled  round  and  rode  south  again,  and  many  a  long  and 
weary  mile  did  we  travel.  The  road,  which  had  continued  many  miles  through  the 
prairie,  at  length,  in  winding  round  a  point  of  woods,  brought  us  suddenly  upon 
an  Indian  village.  A  shout  of  joy  broke  from  the  whole  party,  but  no  answering 
shout  was  returned — not  even  a  bark  of  friendly  welcome — as  we  galloped  up  to 
the  wigwams.  All  was  silent  as  the  grave.  We  rode  round  and  round,  then  dis 
mounted  and  looked  into  several  of  the  spacious  huts.  They  had  evidently  been 
long  deserted. 

Our  disappointment  may  be  better  imagined  than  described.  With  heavy  hearts 
we  mounted  and  once  more  pursued  our  way,  the  snow  again  falling  and  adding  to 
the  discomforts  of  our  position.  At  length  we  halted  for  the  night.  We  had  long 
been  aware  that  our  stock  of  provisions  was  insufficient  for  another  day,  and  here 
we  were — nobody  knew  where — in  the  midst  of  woods  and  prairies — certainly  far 
from  any  human  habitation,  with  barely  enough  food  for  a  slender  evening's  meal. 

The  poor  dogs  came  whining  around  us  to  beg  their  usual  portion,  but  they  were 
obliged  to  content  themselves  with  a  bare  bone,  and  we  retired  to  rest  with  the 
feeling  that  if  not  actually  hungry  then,  we  should  certainly  be  so  to-morrow. 

The  morrow  came.  Plante  and  Roy  had  a  bright  fire  and  a  nice  pot  of  coffee 
for  us.  It  was  our  only  breakfast,  for  on  shaking  the  bag  and  turning  it  inside  out 
we  could  make  no  more  of  our  stock  of  bread  than  three  crackers,  which  the  rest 
of  the  party  insisted  I  should  put  in  my  pocket  for  my  dinner.  We  still  had  the 
trail  to  guide  us,  and  we  continued  to  follow  it  until  about  nine  o'clock,  when,  in 
emerging  from  a  wood,  we  came  upon  a  broad  and  rapid  river.  A  collection  of 
Indian  wigwams  stood  upon  the  opposite  bank,  and  as  the  trail  led  directly  to  the 
water,  it  was  fair  to  infer  that  the  stream  was  fordable.  We  had  no  opportunity 
of  testing  it,  however,  for  the  banks  were  so  lined  with  ice,  which  was  piled  up 
tier  upon  tier  by  the  breaking-up  of  the  previous  week,  that  we  tried  in  vain  to 
find  a  path  by  which  we  could  descend  the  bank  to  the  water.  The  men  shouted 
again  and  again  in  hopes  some  straggling  inhabitant  of  the  village  might  be  at 
hand  with  his  canoe.  No  answer  was  returned  save  by  the  echoes.  What  was  to 
be  done  ?  I  looked  at  my  husband  and  saw  that  care  was  on  his  brow,  although 
he  still  continued  to  speak  cheerfully.  '  We  will  follow  this  cross-trail  down  the 
bank  of  the  river,'  said  he.  '  There  must  be  Indians  wintering  near  in  some  of 
these  points  of  wood.'  I  must  confess  that  I  felt  somewhat  dismayed  at  our  pros 
pects,  but  I  kept  up  a  show  of  courage,  and  did  not  allow  my  despondency  to  be 
seen.  All  the  party  were  dull  and  gloomy  enough. 

We  kept  along  the  bank,  which  was  considerably  elevated  above  the  water,  and 
bordered  at  a  little  distance  with  a  thick  wood.     All  at  once  my  horse,  who  was  mor- 


462  WISCONSIN. 

tally  afraid  of  Indians,  began  to  jump  and  prance,  snorting  and  pricking  up  his 
ears  as  if  an  enemy  were  at  hand.  I  screamed  with  delight  to  my  husband,  who 
was  at  the  head  of  the  file,  'Oh  John!  John!  there  are  Indians  near — look  at 
Jerry! '  At  this  instant  a  little  Indian  dog  ran  out  from  under  the  bushes  by  the 
roadside,  and  began  barking  at  us.  Never  were  sounds  more  welcome.  We  rodo 
directly  into  the  thicket,  and  descending  into  a  little  hollow,  found  two  squaws 
crouching  behind  the  bushes,  trying  to  conceal  themselves  from  our  sight. 

They  appeared  greatly  relieved  when  Mr.  Kinzie  addressed  them  in  the  Potto- 
watomie  language. 

The  squaw,  in  answer  to  Mr.  K.'s  inquiries,  assured  him  that  Chicago  was  '  close 

ky-' 

'  That  means,'  said  he,  '  that  it  is  not  so  far  off  as  Canada.  We  must  not  be  too 
sanguine.' 

The  men  sat  about  unpacking  the  horses,  and  I  in  the  meantime  was  paddled 
across  the  river.  The  old  woman  immediately  returned,  leaving  the  younger  one 
with  me  for  company.  1  seated  myself  on  the  fallen  trunk  of  a  tree,  in  the  midst 
of  the  snow,  and  looked  across  the  dark  waters.  I  am  not  ashamed  to  confess  my 
weakness — for  the  first  time  on  my  journey  I  shed  tears.  The  poor  little  squaw 
looked  into  my  face  with  a  wondering  and  sympathizing  expression. 

'What  would  my  friends  at  the  east  think,'  said  1  to  myself,  'if  they  could  see 
me  now?  What  would  poor  old  Mrs.  Welsh  say  ?  She  who  warned  me  that  if  I 
came  away  so  far  to  the  west,  I  should  break  my  heart?  Would  she  not  rejoice  to 
find  how  likely  her  prediction  was  to  be  fulfilled  ? ' 

These  thoughts  roused  me.  I  dried  up  my  tears,  and  by  the  time  my  husband 
with  his  party,  and  all  his  horses  and  luggage,  were  across,  I  had  recovered  my 
cheerfulness,  and  was  ready  for  fresh  adventures. 

We  followed  the  old  squaw  to  her  lodge,  which  was  at  no  great  distance  in  the 
woods.  The  master  of  the  lodge,  who  had  gone  out  to  shoot  ducks,  soon  returned. 
He  was  a  tall,  finely  formed  man,  with  a  cheerful,  open  countenance,  and  he  lis 
tened  to  what  his  wife  in  a  quiet  tone  related  to  him,  while  he  divested  himself  of 
his  accoutrements  in  the  most  unembarrassed,  well-bred  manner  imaginable.  Soon 
my  husband  joined  us.  He  had  been  engaged  in  attending  to  the  comfort  of  his 
horses,  and  assisting  his  men  in  making  their  fire,  and  pitching  their  tent,  which 
the  rising  storm  made  a  matter  of  some  difficulty.  From  the  Indian  he  learned 
that  we  were  in  what  was  called 'the  Big  Woods,'  or  '  Piche's  Grove,'*  from  a 
Frenchman  of  that  name  living  not  far  from  the  spot — that  the  river  we  had  crossed 
was  the  Fox  River — that  he  could  guide  us  to  Pichd s,  from  which  the  road  was 
perfectly  plain,  or  even  into  Chicago  if  we  preferred — but  that  we  had  better  re 
main  encamped  for  that  day,  as  there  was  a  storm  coming  on,  and  in  the  mean 
time  he  would  go  and  shoot  some  ducks  for  our  dinner  and  supper.  He  was  ac 
cordingly  furnished  with  powder  and  shot,  and  set  off  again  for  game  without  de 
lay. 

The  tent  being  all  in  order,  my  husband  came  for  me,  and  we  took  leave  of  our 
friends  in  the  wigwam  with  grateful  hearts.  The  storm  was  raging  without.  The 
trees  were  bending  and  cracking  around  us,  and  the  air  was  completely  filled  with 
the  wild-fowl  screaming  and  quacking  as  they  made  their  way  southward  before 
the  blast.  Our  tent  was  among  the  trees  not  far  from  the  river.  My  husband  took 
me  to  the  bank  to  look  for  a  moment  at  what  we  had  escaped.  The  wind  was 
sweeping  down  from  the  north  in  a  perfect  hurricane.  The  water  was  filled  with 
masses  of  snow  and  ice,  dancing  along  upon  the  torrent,  over  which  were  hurry 
ing  thousands  of  wild-fowl,  making  the  woods  resound  to  their  deafening  clamor. 
Had  we  been  one  hour  later,  we  could  not  possibly  have  crossed  the  stream,  and 
there  seems  to  have  been  nothing  for  us  but  to  have  remained  and  starved  in  the 
wilderness.  Could  we  be  sufficiently  grateful  to  that  kind  Providence  that  had 
brought  us  safely  through  such  dangers  ? 

The  storm  raged  with  tenfold  violence  during  the  night.     We  were  continually 

*  Probably  at  what  is  now  Oswego.  The  name  of  a  portion  of  the  wood  is  since  corrupted 
into  Specie't  Grove. 


WISCONSIN.  463 

startled  by  the  crashing  of  the  falling  trees  around  us,  and  who  could  tell  but  that 
the  next  would  be  upon  us  ?  Spite  of  our  fatigue,  we  passed  an  almost  sleepless 
night  When  we  arose  in  the  morning,  we  were  made  fully  alive  to  the  perils  by 
which  we  had  been  surrounded.  At  least  fifty  trees,  the  giants  of  the  forest,  lay 
prostrate  within  view  of  the  tent.  When  we  had  taken  our  scanty  breakfast,  and 
were  mounted  and  ready  for  departure,  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  thread  our 
way,  so  completely  was  it  obstructed  by  the  fallen  trunks. 

Our  Indian  guide  had  joined  us  at  an  early  hour,  and  after  conducting  us  care 
fully  out  of  the  wood,  about  nine  o'clock  brought  us  to  Piche's,  a  log-cabin  on  a 
rising  ground,  looking  off  over  the  broad  prairie  to  the  east.  We  had  hoped  to 
get  some  refreshment  here,  Piche  being  an  old  acquaintance  of  some  of  the  party; 
but  alas !  the  master  was  from  home.  We  found  his  cabin  occupied  by  Indians 
and  travelers — the  latter  few,  the  former  numerous. 

There  was  no  temptation  to  a  halt,  except  that  of  warming  ourselves  at  a  bright 
fire  that  was  burning  in  the  clay  chimney.  A  man  in  Quaker  costume  stepped  for 
ward  to  answer  our  inquiries,  and  offered  to  become  our  escort  to  Chicago,  to  which 
place  he  was  bound — so  we  dismissed  our  Indian  friend,  with  a  satisfactory  remu 
neration  for  all  the  trouble  he  had  so  kindly  taken  for  us. 

The  weather  was  intensely  cold.  The  wind,  sweeping  over  the  wide  prairie,  with 
nothing  to  break  its  force,  chilled  our  very  hearts.  I  beat  my  feet  against  the  sad 
dle  to  restore  the  circulation,  when  they  became  benumbed  with  cold,  until  they 
became  so  bruised  I  could  beat  them  no  longer.  Not  a  house  or  wigwam,  not  even 
a  clump  of  trees  as  a  shelter,  offered  itself  for  many  a  weary  mile.  At  length  we 
reached  the  west  fork  of  the  Du  Page.  It  was  frozen,  but  not  sufficiently  so  to 
bear  the  horses.  Our  only  resource  was  to  cut  a  way  for  them  through  the  ice. 
It  was  a  work  of  time,  for  the  ice  had  frozen  to  several  inches  in  thickness,  during 
the  last  bitter  night.  Plante  went  first  with  an  axe,  and  cut  as  far  as  he  could 
reach,  then  mounted  one  of  the  hardy  little  ponies,  and  with  some  difficulty  broke 
the  ice  before  him,  until  he  had  opened  a  passage  to  the  opposite  shore. 

How  the  poor  animals  shivered  as  they  were  reined  in  among  the  floating  ice ! 
And  we,  who  sat  waiting  in  the  piercing  wind,  were  not  much  better.  We  were 
all  across  at  last,  and  spurred  on  our  horses,  until  we  reached  Hawley's* — a  large, 
commodious  dwelling,  near  the  east  fork  of  the  river. 

The  good  woman  welcomed  us  kindly,  and  soon  made  us  warm  and  comfortable. 
We  felt  as  if  we  were  in  a  civilized  land  once  more.  We  found,  upon  inquiry, 
that  we  could,  by  pushing  on,  reach  Lawton's,  on  the  Aux  Plaines,  that  night — we 
should  then  be  within  twelve  miles  of  Chicago.  Of  course  we  made  no  unneces 
sary  delay,  but  set  off  as  soon  after  dinner  as  possible.  The  crossing  of  the  east 
fork  of  the  Du  Page  was  more  perilous  than  the  former  one  had  been. 

It  was  almost  dark  when  we  reached  Lawton's.  The  Aux  Plainesf  was  frozen, 
and  the  house  was  on  the  other  side.  By  loud  shouting,  we  brought  out  a  man 
from  the  building,  and  he  succeeded  in  cutting  the  ice,  and  bringing  a  canoe  over 
to  us;  but  not  until  it  had  become  difficult  to  distinguish  objects  in  the  darkness. 
A  very  comfortable  house  was  Lawton's,  after  we  did  reach  it — carpeted,  and  with 
a  warm  stove — in  fact,  quite  in  civilized  style.  Mrs.  Lawton  was  a  young  woman, 
and  not  ill-looking.  She  complained  bitterly  of  the  loneliness  of  her  condition,  and 
having  been  'brought  out  there  into  the  woods;  which  was  a  thing  she  had  not 
expected,  when  she  came  from  the  east.'  We  could  hardly  realize,  on  rising  the 
following  morning,  that  only  twelve  miles  of  prairie  intervened  between  us  and 
Chicago  le  Desire,  as  I  could  not  but  name  it. 

Soon  the  distance  was  traversed,  and  we  were  in  the  arms  of  our  dear,  kind 
friends.  A  messenger  was  dispatched  to 'the  garrison  '  for  the  remaining  mem 
bers  of  the  family,  and  for  that  day  at  least,  I  was  the  wonder  and  admiration  of 
the  whole  circle,  '  for  the  dangers  1  had  seen.' " 

*  It  was  near  this  spot  that  the  brother  of  Mr.  Hawley,  a  Methodist  preacher,  was  killed 
by  the  Sauks,  in  1832,  after  having  been  tortured  by  them  with  the  most  wanton  barbarity. 

f  Riviere  Aux  Plaines  was  the  original  French  designation,  now  changed  to  Desplavnet, 
pronounced  as  in  English. 


WISCONSIN. 

North  of  Milwaukie,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan,  are  several  thriving 
city-like  towns,  containing  each  several  thousand  inhabitants.  They  are 
Ozankee,  Sheboygan,  Manitowoc,  and  Two  Rivers. 

City  of  Superior  is  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  on  the  Bay  of  Superior 
and  Neraadji  River.  It  was  laid  out  in  1854,  by  a  company  of  gentlemen 
who  judged  from  its  site  that  it  must  eventually  be  a  large  city.  It  has  a 
splendid  harbor,  six  miles  long  and  one  broad,  admirably  sheltered  from  storms, 
and  capable  of  containing  the  shipping  of  the  entire  chain  of  lakes.  In 
three  years,  its  population  had  increased  to  1,500  souls,  and  many  buildings 
had  been  constructed. 

La  Pointe,  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  north-west,  was  first  occupied 
by  the  French  Jesuits  and  traders,  in  1680.  It  is  on  Madeline  Island  of 
Lake  Superior,  which  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow  channel. 
It  has  an  air  of  antiquity,  in  its  ruined  port,  dilapidated  pickets,  that  form 
erly  inclosed  the  place,  and  the  old  Fur  Company's  buildings,  some  of  which 
are  still  standing.  Here  was  the  scene  of  the  labors  of  Fathers  Claude 
Allouez  and  Jean  Marquette,  and  of  an  Indian  battle  between  the  warlike 
Dacotahs  and  Algonquins,  in  which  the  chapel  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  erected 
by  these  devoted  missionaries,  was  destroyed.  Near  it,  on  the  mainland,  is 
the  newly  laid  out  town  of  Bayfidd. 


THE   TIMES 


OP 


THE      REBELLION 


IN 


WISCONSIN. 


To  the  calls  of  the  Government  for  troops,  no  state  responded  with 
greater  alacrity  than  Wisconsin.  She  has  sent  to  the  field,  since  the  com 
mencement  of  the  war,  forty-four  regiments  of  infantry,  four  regiments 
and  one  company  of  cavalry,  one  regiment  of  heavy  artillery,  thirteen 
batteries  of  light  artillery,  and  one  company  of  sharp-shooters,  making 
an  aggregate  (exclusive  of  hundred  day  men),  of  seventy-five  thousand 
one  hundred  and  thirty -three  men.  To  this  large  number,  furnished 
by  this  young  state,  should  be  added  three  regiments  of  one  hundred 
day  men,  who  nobly  responded  to  the  call  at  a  critical  moment,  when 
their  services  were  much  needed,  and  whose  services  were  of  so  much 
importance  to  the  government,  as  to  call  forth  from  the  commander- 
in-chief  the  highest  special  commendation. 

Wisconsin  stood  firmly  and  unwaveringly  by  the  flag  of  the  union. 
The  bravery  of  her  troops  was  not  excelled.  The  "  IRON  BRIGADE  " 
secured  a  distinguished  place  in  the  history  of  the  war.  East,  west 
and  south,  upon  many  of  the  bloody  fields  of  battle,  Wisconsin's  brave 
sons  won  for  themselves  an  undying  fame.  Unflinchingly  they  fought 
for  the  union,  and  looked  death  in  the  face  in  a  thousand  differ 
ent  forms;  without  a  murmur  they  fell,  shattered  and  mangled  upon 
the  cold  and  gory  field  ;  without  a  murmur  they  bore  the  privations 
incident  to  a  soldier's  life;  many  alas!  lingered  and  died  in  hos 
pitals.  Many  a  fireside  was  made  desolate ;  the  orphan  children,  the 
widowed  mothers,  the  mourning  fathers,  mothers,  brothers  and  sisters 
of  Wisconsin  can  be  numbered  by  thousands. 

Early  in  the  war  the  state  suffered  a  great  loss  in  the  death  of  her 
excellent  governor,  Louis  P.  HARVEY.  He  was  born  at  East  Haddam, 
Conn.,  in  1820 ;  in  1828,  emigrated  with  his  parents  to  Ohio,  and  was 
educated  at  the  Western  Reserve  college.  He  was  accidentally 
drowned,  April  19,  1862,  at  Pittsburg  Landing,  Tennessee,  while  step 
ping  from  one  boat  to  another.  He  had  gone  there  to  carry,  with  his 
own  hands,  the  means  of  relieving  the  soldiers  of  his  state,  wounded 

30  (465) 


466  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

at  the  battle  of  Shiloah.  We  give  an  extract  of  a  private  letter,  con 
taining  some  particulars  of  his  life  and  character  : 

Governor  Harvey  had  lived  in  Wisconsin  about  fifteen  years — first  engaged  in 
teaching,  then  in  mercantile  pursuits.  Six  years  ago  he  was  chosen  to  represent 
his  district  in  the  senate,  which  office  he  held  for  two  terms.  He  was  then  chosen 
secretary  of  state;  and  in  1861  was  nominated  for  governor  hy  the  republican 
convention,  and  also  by  the  union  convention.  He  was  elected  by  a  good  major 
ity,  and  was  inagurated  the  first  Monday  after  January.  During  the  newspaper 
quarrel  that  always  precedes  an  election,  I  never  saw  a  single  opprobrious  reflec 
tion  upon  the  conduct  or  character  of  Mr.  Harvey,  though  I  daily  saw  all  the 
leading  democratic  papers  of  the  state. 

The  duties  of  his  office  at  such  a  time  as  this  could  not  under  any  circumstances 
be  light,  and  his  were  especially  onerous  :  and  it  is  said  that  he  habitually  worked 
till  eleven  and  twelve  o'clock  at  night,  and  was  at  it  again  at  four  or  five  in  the 
morning.  He  was  quite  annoyed  by  a  difficulty  he  had  in  getting  the  last  regi 
ment  oft— -the  19th,  an  Irish  regiment.  Everything  before  had  been  done  with  such 
hearty  good-will  and  enthusiasm,  that  it  was  painful  to  see  the  last  regiment,  or 
part  of  it,  influenced  to  mutiny.  But  the  governor,  with  the  catholic  priest,  har 
monized  them  in  part,  and  they  were  sent  on  to  St.  Louis. 

Immediately  upon  receiving  the  news  of  the  Pittsburg  battle,  he  resolved  to  go 
to  the  aid  of  the  wounded.  He  sent  dispatches  to  the  principal  towns  to  collect 
hospital  supplies,  and  forward  to  his  care.  When  his  wife  at  first  expressed  a 
dislike  to  have  him  go,  he  said,  "  I  expected  to  hear  that  from  others,  but  I  hoped 
to  receive  encouragement  from  you." 

He  stopped  on  his  way  to  visit  the  Wisconsin  soldiers  in  the  hospital  at  Cairo, 
and  spent  three  days  with  them  without  taking  off  his  clothes.  Then  he  proceeded 
to  Pittsburg.  In  a  letter  he  wrote  back,  and  probably  the  last  he  every  wrote,  he 
said :  "  I  thank  God  for  the  good  impulse  to  come  here.  I  have  accomplished 
more  than  I  could  have  expected." 

He  was  drowned  on  Saturday  evening.  The  next  day,  Sabbath,  a  friend,  meet 
ing  Governor  Harvey's  mother  in  church,  said:  "How  happy  you  always  look  !" 
"  Why  shouldn't  I,"  she  said,  "  when  I  have  such  good  sons  ?  " 

Gov.  Harvey  was  to  the  time  of  his  death  a  member  of  the  congregational  church. 
His  cordial,  unostentatious  manner  made  him  many  warm  personal  friends. 

The  following  shows  how  truly  his  death  was  lamented : 

Our  good  Governor  Harvey  is  dead.  Our  brave,  good  governor,  whom  every 
body  loved,  and  over  whose  untimely  fate  all  good  hearts  most  sincerely  mourn. 

It  is  only  an  hour  since  the  sad  tidings  of  his  death  came  to  us  across  the  wires 
in  this  city  of  Madison,  the  capital  of  Wisconsin.  And  the  news  has  put  all  the 
people  into  mourning.  Sincerer  grief,  more  real  and  earnest  sorrow  I  never  saw 
exhibited.  All  persons,  belonging  to  all  political  parties  without  any  distinction, 
feel  the  great  calamity  as  if  it  were  personal ;  as  if  some  dear,  and  unspeakably 
beloved  friend  had  been  snatched  suddenly  from  their  families  and  homes. 

On  the  streets  1  met  with  rude,  hard  men,  who,  perhaps,  had  never  wept  before 
in  their  lives,  and  they  could  not  speak  to  me  without  tears  gushing  out  of  their 
eyes,  and  voices  half  choked  with  bitter  sobs.  So  sudden  was  the  terrible  blow, 
so  unlocked  for,  so  impossible,  nearly,  to  be  realized,  that  men,  women,  and  little 
children  are  profoundly  affected  by  it,  not  knowing  what  to  make  of  it,  feeling 
only  that,  if  it  is  so,  our  public  loss  is  great  indeed ;  hoping  against  hope  that  the 
dreadful  lightning  words  may  be  yet  proven  untrue  by  more  faithful  dispatches. 

But  alas  !  there  is  no  hope.  All  is  over  with  our  noble  governor  in  this  world. 
Those  ugly,  treacherous  waters  of  the  Tennessee,  swallowed  up  all  his  life,  and 
have  left  us  all  in  such  grief  that  no  words  of  mine  could  depict  it. 

It  was  only  yesterday  that  the  big-hearted  governor,  hearing  of  our  terrible  dis 
asters  at  Pittsburg  Landing — or,  as  history  is  likely  to  record  it,  our  disasters  at  the 
battle  of  Corinth — issued  his  messages  to  every  city  in  the  state,  calling  upon  the 
inhabitants  to  contribute  all  and  every  thing  they  could  lay  their  hands  on  in  tho 
shape  of  linen,  etc.,  and  forward  the  same  to  him  by  the  very  next  trains,  that  he 


IN  WISCONSIN.  407 

might  himself  carry  those  stores  to  our  poor,  wounded  soldiers.  Alas  !  poor  gentle 
man  !  He  little  thought  that  while  engaged  on  this  great-hearted  errand  of  mercy,  he 
should  fall  a  victim  to  the  veriest  accident  which  ever  struck  a  brave  man  down. 

Stepping  from  one  boat  to  another  on  the  Tennessee  river,  his  foot  fell  short, 
and  down  he  went  into  the  rapid  waters,  never  more  to  rise  again ! 

While  I  write,  the  funeral  cannon  are  booming  over  the  city,  and  the  uncon 
scious,  unsympathizing  four  lakes  which  encircle  it,  but  not  over  unsympathizing 
hearts  !  Believe  me,  that  few  things  could  have  befallen  us  which  would  have 
afflicted  all  classes  so  deeply.  The  proof  is  externally  shown  in  the  closing  of  the 
stores,  in  their  decoration  with  crapes  and  the  garments  of  death,  in  the  flags 
hanging  half-mast  high  from  the  capitol  and  the  public  buildings,  in  the  tolling 
of  all  the  bells  in  the  churches,  in  the  mournful  grasps  of  men  in  the  streets,  in 
the  white  lips  which  announce  to  every  incomer  from  the  country  the  sad  tidings, 
the  appalling  tidings,  that  our  good  governor,  who  left  us  so  lately  with  such  be 
nevolence  and  mercy,  and  charity  in  his  heart  and  hand,  would  never,  never 
more  return  to  us. 

The  governor's  lady  was  at  the  station  soliciting  help  for  the  poor  wounded  sol 
diers  at  the  very  moment  that  the  station  master  was  reading  the  telegraphic 
message  which  announced  her  husband's  death.  She  heard  it,  all  too  soon,  and 
fainted  on  the  street.  Her  idol,  whom  she  loved  so  dearly,  was  broken — broken, 
and  no  help  !  May  God  help  her ! 

All  over  this  state,  all  over  the  United  States,  this  man's  fate  will  be  lamented 
and  sorrowed  over.  He  was  only  elected  in  January  last,  and  no  man  ever  began 
a  public  career  with  more  brilliant  promise,  more  encouraging  auspices.  And 
now  all  is  over.  The  dark  curtain  has  fallen,  and  the  starry  curtain  has  been  up 
lifted,  and  he  has  gone  under  it  where  all  good  men  go — to  God  and  the  blessed 
majority  of  the  angels. 

The  "  IRON  BRIGADE  OF  THE  WEST  "  was  composed  of  the  2d,  6th 
and  7th  regiments,  and  was  commanded  by  General  Gibbon. 

The  2d  regiment,  which  was  identified  with  the  army  of  the  Potomac  from 
its  first  organization,  and  which  was  the  representative  of  Wisconsin  at  the  first 
battle  of  Bull  Run,  was  joined  later  in  the  season,  by  the  6th  and  7th  regiments. 
In  the  organization  of  the  army  by  General  McClellen,  these  regiments,  together 
with  the  19th  Indiana,  were  organized  as  a  brigade,  and  assigned  to  the  command 
of  Brigadier  General  Gibbon,  General  King  having  been  promoted  to  the  com 
mand  of  a  division.  Thenceforward  their  history" is  identical,  and  Wisconsin 
may  well  be  proud  of  their  record,  which  has  procured  for  them  the  name  of  the 
"  Iron  Brigade  of  the  West." 

The  winter  was  spent  in  camp  at  Arlington,  Va.,  preparing  for  the  spring  cam 
paign.  In  the  grand  review  of  the  27th  of  March,  the  Winconsin  troops,  particu 
larly  the  2d,  were  complimented  for  their  soldierly  appearance  and  thorough  ac 
quaintance  with  military  drill. 

They  participated  in  the  advance  on  Richmond,  under  command  of  Major  Gen 
eral  McDowell ;  and  subsequently  under  Major  General  Pope,  acted  as  rear  guard 
to  the  "  Army  of  the  Potomac,"  at  the  time  it  fell  back  on  Washington.  In  the 
performance  of  this  duty,  "the  6th  Wisconsin,  the  very  last  to  retire,  marched 
slowly  and  steadily  to  the  rear,  faced  to  the  front  again  as  they  reached  their  new 
position,  and  saluted  the  approaching  enemy  with  three  rousing  cheers,  and  a 
rattling  volley.  Every  Wisconsin  man  who  heaj-d  those  cheers  felt  his  heart 
thrill  with  pride  for  the  gallant  fellows  who  gave  them." 

In  the  three  days  fight  of  the  28th,  29th  and  30th  of  August,  at  Gainesville  and 
Bull  Run,  Gibbon's  brigade  suffered  terribly.  The  2d  went  into  the  fight  with 
about  430  men,  and  lost  in  killed,  wounded  and  missing,  286 ;  the  colonel  and 
one  captain  being  killed,  and  Major  Allen,  Captain  Smith,  and  Lieutenants  Bald 
win,  Bell  and  Bsslinger,  wounded.  "  Colonel  O' Conner  fell  fighting  bravely,  and 
dearly  beloved  by  his  regiment."  Captain  J.  F.  Randolph,  of  company  "  H,"  was 
also  killed  in  this  battle.  No  truer  or  braver  man  has  gone  into  action,  or  fallen 
a  sacrifice  to  the  wicked  rebellion.  The  loss  of  the  6th,  was  17  killed  and  91 


468 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


wounded,  the  latter  number  including  Colonel  Cutler  and  Lieutenants  Johnson 
and  Tichenor;  and  the  7th  lost,  in  killed  and  wounded,  75  n»en,  including  Captain 
Brayton,  company  "  B,"  killed,  and  Captains  Walker  and  Walthers,  Lieutenants 
Bird  and  Hobart,  wounded.  A  correspondent  from  the  field  says  of  their  action 
in  these  battles : 

"Gibbon's  brigade  covered  the  rear,  not  leaving  the  field  till  after  nine  o'clock 
at  night,  gathering  up  the  stragglers  as  they  marched,  preventing  confusion^,  and 
showing  so  steady  a  line  that  the  enemy  made  no  attempt  to  molest  them." 

Afterward,  in  the  short  campaign  in  Maryland,  under  command  of  Major  Gen 
eral  McClellen,  they  nobly  sustained  their  reputation  at  the  battles  of  South 
Mountain  and  Antietam,  which  terminated  the  campaign  by  forcing  the  rebels  to 
retire  across  the  Potomac.  In  the  battle  of  Sharpsburg,  September  14th,  Captain 
W.  W.  Colwell,  company  UB,"  2d  regiment,  of  La  Cross,  was  killed,  while  in 
command  of  the  line  of  skirmishers.  A  fine  officer,  beloved  by  the  whole  regi 
ment.  His  last  words,  as  he  was  raised  by  the  men  of  his  command,  were, 
"Advance  the  right,  and  press  forward;  don't  give  way."  The  2nd  went  into 
the  battle  of  Antietam,  September  17,  150  strong,  and  came  out  with  59.  Lieute 
nant  Sanford,  company  "  I,"  was  killed  ;  Lieutenant  Colonel  Allen,  Captains  Gib 
son  and  Ely,  and  Lieutenants  Jones  and  Hill  wounded. 

This  short  and  meagre  sketch  of  this  brigade,  cannot  be  more  appropriately 
terminated,  than  by  recalling  a  special  order  issued  by  their  commanding  general, 
of  which  the  following  is  a  copy. 

HEADQUARTERS  GIBBON'S  BRIGADE,  NEAR  SHARPSBURG,  MD.,  } 

October  7th,  1862.  j 

SPECIAL  ORDER  No.  — 

It  is  with  great  gratification  that  the  brigadier-general  commanding  announces 
to  the  Wisconsin  troops  the  following  indorsement  upon  a  letter  to  his  excellency, 
the  governor  of  Wisconsin.  His  greatest  pride  will  always  be  to  know  that  such 
encomiums  from  such  a  source  are  always  merited. 

UI  beg  to  add  to  this  indorsement  the  expression  of  my  great  admiration  of  the 
conduct  of  the  three  Wisconsin  regiments,  in  General  Gibbon's  brigade.  I  have 
seen  them  under  fire  acting  in  a  manner  that  reflects  the  greatest  possible  credit 
and  honor  upon  themselves  and  their  state.  They  are  equal  to  the  best  troops  in 
any  army  in  the  world.  [Signed,]  GEORGE  B.  MCCLELLAN." 

By  command  of  Brigadier-General  GIBBON. 

The  20th  regiment  was  organized  under  the  call  for  seventy-five  thousand. 
The  men  were  recruited  during  the  months  of  June  and  July,  1861.  The  organi 
zation  was  completed  and  the  regiment  mustered  into  the  United  States  service  in 
the  beginning  of  August.  The  field-officers  of  this  regiment  were  all  promoted 
from  the  old  regiments  in  the  field. 

On  the  30th  of  August  they  left  Camp  Kandall  under  orders  for  St.  Louis, 
where  they  arrived  on  the  31st.  On  the  6th  of  September  they  were  ordered  to 
Holla,  at  which  place  they  remained  for  ten  days,  when  they  marched  to  Spring 
field  on  the  23d.  They  remained  in  the  vicinity  of  Springfield  until  the  beginning 
of  December,  when  they  were  called  upon  to 'take  part  in  the  movement  of  Gen 
eral  Herron's  forces,  for  the  purpose  of  effecting  a  junction  with  General  Blunt, 
who  was  holding  the  enemy  in  check  near  Cane  Hill,  Ark.,  and  thereby  prevent 
the  rebels  from  entering  Missouri.  On  Sunday,  the  7th  of  December,  they  came 
in  sight  of  the  enemy  at  Prairie  Grove,  Ark.,  having  marched  one  hundred  miles 
in  three  days.  Their  conduct,  during  the  terrible  fight  which  followed,  showed 
they  did  not  need  their  general's  reminder,  as  he  placed  them  in  position,  that 
"  Wisconsin  had  never  been  disgraced  by  her  sons  in  arms."  They  charged  upon 
and  took  a  rebel  battery  of  six  guns  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  being  una 
ble  to  take  the  guns  from  the  field,  disabled  them,  and  slowly  retired  without  confu 
sion,  under  the  fire  of  Jive  rebel  regiments.  Captains  John  McDermott  and  John 
Weber,  and  Lieutenant  Thomas  Bintliff,  were  killed  in  this  fearful  charge,  and 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Henry  Bertram,  Captains  0.  Gillett  and  H.  C.  Strong,  with  Lieu 
tenants  Jackson,  Bird,  Butler,  Blake,  Ferguson,  Root  and  Miller  wounded.  The 
total  loss  was  49  killed,  148  wounded  and  8  missing. 


IN  WISCONSIN. 

V 

In  an  official  order  of  General  Herron  to  Governor  Solomon,  he  said :  "  I  con 
gratulate  you  and  the  State  on  the  glorious  conduct  of  the  20th  Wisconsin  in 
fantry  in  the  great  battle  of  Prairie  Grove." 

The  famous  IKON  BRIGADE  was  later  known  in  the  War  as  Meredith's  Brigade,  and  at 
Gettysburg,  was  composed  of  the  2d,  5th,  and  7th  Wisconsin,  19th  Indiana,  and  24th 
Michigan.  The  heroic  bravery  of  this  brigade  of  western  men  in  the  battles  at  this  point, 
almost  surpasses  belief.  They  held  the  key  of  the  position,  inflicted  terrible  losses  upon 
the  enemy,  and  suffered  terribly,  some  of  these  regiments  losing  three  quarters  of  their  men. 
On  being  asked  by  Gen.  Doubleday  to  hold  a  certain  point  to  the  last  extremity,  he  re 
ported  :  "  Full  of  the  memory  of  past  achievements,  they  replied  cheerfully  and  proudly, 
"  If  we  can't  hold  it,  where  will  you  find  the  men  who  can  ?'  " 

The  credit  of  saving  Admiral  Porter's  fleet  of  gunboats  and  trans 
ports  from  the  peril  of  certain  destruction  on  the  rocks  and  among 
the  rapids  by  the  sudden  fall  of  Eed  Eiver,  during  Banks'  unfortunate 
expedition,  in  the  spring  of  1864,  was  due  to  the  skill  and  energy  of 
a  Wisconsin  volunteer  officer.  How  the  vessels  were  extricated  is 
thus  told  by  Admiral  Porter: 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Bailey,  acting  engineer  of  the  19th  army  corps,  proposed  a 
plan  of  building  a  series  of  dams  across  the  rocks  at  the  falls,  and  raising  the 
water  high  enough  to  let  the  vessels  pass  over.  This  proposition  looked  like 
madness,  and  the  best  engineers  ridiculed  it,  but  Colonel  Bailey  was  so  sanguine 
of  success  that  I  requested  General  Banks  to  have  it  done,  and  he  entered 
heartily  into  the  work.  Provisions  were  short  and  forage  was  almost  out,  and  the 
dam  was  promised  to  be  finished  in  ten  days,  or  the  army  would  have  to  leave  us. 
I  was  doubtful  about  the  time,  but  had  no  doubt  about  the  ultimate  success,  if 
time  would  only  permit.  General  Banks  placed  at  the  disposal  of  Colonel  Bailey 
all  the  force  he  required,  consisting  of  some  three  thousand  men  and  two  or  three 
hundred  wagons ;  all  the  neighboring  steam-mills  were  torn  down  for  material ; 
two  or  three  regiments  of  Maine  men  were  set  to  work  felling  trees,  and  on  the 
second  day  after  my  arrival  at  Alexandria  from  Grand  Ecore  the  work  had  fairly 
began.  Trees  were  falling  with  great  rapidity;  teams  were  moving  in  all  direc 
tions,  bringing  in  brick  and  stone  ;  quarries  were  opened;  flat-boats  were  built  to 
bring  stones  down  from  above ;  and  every  man  seemed  to  be  working  with  a  vigor 
I  have  seldom  seen  equaled,  while  perhaps  not  one  in  fifty  believed  in  the  success 
of  the  undertaking.  These  falls  are  about  a  mile  in  length,  filled  with  rugged 
rocks,  over  which,  at  the  present  stage  of  water,  it  seemed  to  be  impossible  to 
make  a  channel. 

The  work  was  commenced  by  running  out  from  the  left  bank  of  the  river  a 
tree-dam,  made  of  the  bodies  of  very  large  trees,  brush,  brick,  and  stone,  cross-tied 
with  other  heavy  timber,  and  strengthened  in  every  way  which  ingenuity  could 
devise.  This  was  run  out  about  three  hundred  feet  into  the  river;  four  large  coal- 
barges  were  then  filled  with  brick  and  sunk  at  the  end  of  it.  From  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  cribs  filled  with  stone  were  built  out  to  meet  the  barges.  All  of 
which  was  successfully  accomplished,  notwithstanding  there  was  a  current  run 
ning  of  nine  miles  an  hour,  which  threatened  to  sweep  every  thing  before  it.  It 
will  take  too  much  time  to  enter  into  the  details  of  this  truly  wonderful  work. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  dam  had  nearly  reached  completion  in  eight  days'  work 
ing  time,  and  the  water  had  risen  sufficiently  on  the  upper  falls  to  allow  the  Fort 
Hindman,  Osage,  and  Neosho  to  get  down  and  be  ready  to  pass  the  dam.  In 
another  day  it  would  have  been  high  enough  to  enable  all  the  other  vessels  to  pass 
the  upper  falls.  Unfortunately,  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  inst.,  the  pressure  of 
water  became  so  great  that  it  swept  away  two  of  the  stone  barges,  which  swung 
in  below  the  dam  at  one  side.  Seeing  this  unfortunate  accident,  I  jumped  on  a 
horse  and  rode  up  to  where  the  upper  vessels  were  anchored,  and  ordered  the 
Lexington  to  pass  the  upper  falls,  if  possible,  and  immediately  attempt  to  go 
through  the  dam.  I  thought  I  might  be  able  to  save  the  four  vessels  below,  not 
knowing  whether  the  persons  employed  on  the  work  would  ever  have  the  heart  to 
renew  their  enterprise. 

The  Lexington  succeeded  in  getting  over  the  upper  falls  just  in  time — the  water 


470 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


rapidly  falling  as  she  was  passing  over.  She  then  steered  directly  for  the  opening 
in  the  dam,  through  which  the  water  was  rushing  so  furiously  that  it  seemed  as 
if  nothing  but  destruction  awaited  her.  Thousands  of  beating  hearts  looked  on, 
anxious  for  the  result.  The  silence  was  so  great,  as  the  Lexington  approached  the 
dam,  that  a  pin  might  almost  be  heard  to  fall.  She  entered  the  gap  with  a  full 
head  of  steam  on,  pitched  down  the  roaring  torrent,  made  two  or  three  spasmodic 
rolls,  hung  for  a  moment  on  the  rocks  below,  was  then  swept  into  deep  water  by 
the  current,  and  rounded  to  safely  into  the  bank.  Thirty  thousand  voices  rose  in 
one  deafening  cheer,  and  universal  joy  seemed  to  pervade  the  face  of  every  man 
present.  The  Neosho  followed  next,  all  her  hatches  battened  down,  and  every 
precaution  taken  against  accident.  She  did  not  fare  as  well  as  the  Lexington,  her 
pilot  having  become  frightened  as  he  approached  the  abyss  and  stopped  her  engine, 
when  I  particularly  ordered  a  full  head  of  steam  to  be  carried ;  the  result  was, 
that  for  a  moment  her  hull  disappeared  from  sight  under  the  water.  Every  one 
thought  she  was  lost.  She  rose,  however,  swept  along  over  the  rocks  with  the  cur 
rent,  and  fortunately  escaped  with  only  one  hole  in  her  bottom,  which  was  stopped 
in  the  course  of  an  hour.  The  Hindman  and  Osage  both  came  through  beauti 
fully,  without  touching  a  thing;  and  I  thought  if  I  was  only  fortunate  enough  to 
get  my  large  vessels  as  well  over  the  falls,  my  fleet  once  more  would  do  good  ser 
vice  in  the  Mississippi.  The  accident  to  the  darn,  instead  of  disheartening  Col 
onel  Bailey,  only  induced  him  to  renew  his  exertions  after  he  had  seen  the  success 
of  getting  four  vessels  through. 

The  noble-hearted  soldiers,  seeing  their  labor  of  the  last  eight  days  swept  away 
in  a  moment,  cheerfully  went  to  work  to  repair  the  damages,  being  confident  now 
that  all  the  gunboats  would  finally  be  brought  over.  These  men  had  been  work 
ing  for  eight  days  and  nights  up  to  their  necks  in  water,  in  the  broiling  sun — cut 
ting  trees  and  wheeling  bricks — and  nothing  but  good  humor  prevailed  among 
them.  On  the  whole,  it  was  very  fortunate  that  the  dam  was  carried  away  as  the 
two  barges  that  were  swept  away  from  the  center  swung  around  against  some 
rocks  on  the  left,  and  made  a  fine  cushion  for  the  vessels,  and  prevented  them,  as 
it  afterward  appeared,  from  running  on  certain  destruction.  The  force  of  the 
water  and  the  current  being  too  great  to  construct  a  continuous  dam,  at  six  hun 
dred  feet  across  the  river,  in  so  short  a  time,  Colonel  Bailey  determined  to  leave  a 
gap  of  fifty-five  feet  in  the  dam  and  build  a  series  of  wing  dams  on  the  upper 
falls.  This  was  accomplished  in  three  days'  time,  and  on  the  llth  inst.,  the 
Mound  City,  Carondolet,  and  Pittsburg  came  over  the  upper  falls,  a  good  deal  of 
labor  having  been  expended  in  hauling  them  through,  the  channel  being  very 
crooked,  scarcely  wide  enough  for  them.  Next  day  the  Ozark,  Louisville,  Chilli- 
cothe,  and  two  tugs  also  succeeded  in  passing  the  upper  falls.  Immediately  after 
ward  the  Mound  City,  Carondolet,  and  Pittsburg  started  in  succession  to  pass  the 
darn,  all  their  hatches  battened  down,  and  every  precaution  taken  to  prevent  acci 
dent.  The  passage  of  these  vessels  was  a  most  beautiful  sight,  only  to  be  realized 
when  seen.  They  passed  over  without  an  accident,  except  the  unshipping  of  one 
or  two  rudders.  This  was  witnessed  by  all  the  troops,  and  the  vessels  were  heart 
ily  cheered  as  they  passed  over.  Next  morning  at  ten  o'clock,  the  Louisville, 
Chillicothe,  Ozark/and  two  tugs  passed  over  without  any  accident  except  the  loss 
of  a  man,  who  was  swept  off  the  deck  of  one  of  the  tugs. 

In  Wisconsin,  as  in  other  states,  there  were  some  men  of  disloyal 
stamp.  All  through  the  west,  particularly  in  the  year  1863,  this  feel 
ing  often  exhibited  itself  in  actual  violence.  The  more  usual  mani 
festations  were  in  opposition  to  the  drafts;  and  riots,  from  this  source, 
were  not  uncommon.  In  some  instances  the  enrolling  officers,  while 
proceeding  to  their  duty,  were  ambushed  and  assassinated.  Among 
the  various  DRAFT  RIOTS  was  quite  a  serious  one  in  Ozaukee  county, 
this  state.  The  details  we  take  from  the  Milwaukee  papers. 

The  revsistance  to  the  draft  in  Ozaukee  county  has  assumed  quite  a  serious  as 
pect.  Early  on  Monday  morning,  the  day  on  which  the  draft  was  to  take  place, 


IN  WISCONSIN. 

processions  came  into  the  village  of  Ozaukee,  and  paraded  the  streets  with  ban 
ners  on  which  were  inscribed  "  No  Draft."  At  a  preconcerted  signal — the  firing 
of  two  cannon — they  marched  to  the  courthouse,  where  they  found  the  commis 
sioner,  Mr.  Pors,  had  just  commenced  operations.  The  mob  immediately  attacked 
the  courthouse,  the  commissioner  fled,  a  part  of  the  multitude  pursuing  him  and 
assulting  him  with  stones,  brickbats  and  other  missiles,  until  he  took  refuge  in 
the  postoffice.  The  other  part  continued  their  assault  on  the  courthouse,  and  des 
troyed  the  papers  and  other  machinery  connected  with  the  draft. 

The  commissioner,  having  escaped  from  the  hands  of  the  rioters,  they  turned 
round  and  wreaked  their  vengeance  upon  several  eminent  citizens  who  had  been 
counseling  obedience  to  the  laws.  Among  those  assaulted  and  beaten  were  :  S.  A. 
White,  the  county  judge;  L.  Towsley,  the  district  attorney;  Judge  Downs,  regis 
ter  of  deeds,  and  A.  M.  Blair,  a  leading  lawyer.  All  these  gentlemen  were  se 
verely  injured,  and  narrowly  escaped  with  their  lives.  It  is  reported  that  Judge 
Downs  had  his  leg  broken. 

The  rioters  then  commenced  destroying  private  property.  The  houses  of  Mr. 
Pors,  Mr.  Loomis,  Mr.  Blair,  Dr.  Stillman  and  H.  H.  Hunt  were  sacked.  The 
Ozaukee  Stone  Mills  were  leveled  to  the  ground.  They  pursued  the  proprietor 
with  the  purpose  of  taking  his  life,  but  he  managed  to  secrete  himself,  and  after 
ward  escaped  to  this  city.  Previous  to  this  they  had  obtained  all  the  sheriff's 
papers  in  connection  with  the  draft  and  destroyed  them. 

The  house  of  Commissioner  Pors  was  also  visited  with  particular  vengeance. 
The  furniture  was  smashed  up  and  dumped  out  on  the  street.  Jellies,  jams,  and 
preserves  were  poured  over  the  Brussels  carpets,  and  ladies'  personal  apparel  torn 
into  shreds.  The  mob  continued  in  their  high-handed  career,  and  every  person 
who  was  known  to  be  a  peaceful,  law-abiding  and  law-obeying  citizen  was  threat 
ened  with  violence  to  his  person  and  property.  In  many  cases  these  threats  were 
carried  out  with  fearful  exactness. 

We  are  confident  the  leaders  in  this  riot  will  be  dealt  with  summarily.  We 
believe  the  body  of  the  people  there  have  been  led  on  by  designing,  factious  men, 
who  are  never  content  unless  engaged  in  some  riotous  proceeding,  no  matter  what 
its  nature,  if  it  only  be  resistance  to  the  lawful  constituted  authority.  Pillage 
and  plunder  is  their  great  object,  and  they  have  led  on  innocent,  unsuspecting 
people  to  commit  their  develish  deeds  under  the  cry  of  "  No  Draft."  We  expect 
these  modern  Scmterres  and  Marats  will  be  caged. 

The  provost-marshal-general  of  the  state,  W.  D.  Mclndoe,  arrived  here  last 
night,  and  accompanied  by  eight  companies  of  the  28th  regiment,  600  strong,  un 
der  command  of  Colonel  Lewis,  left  for  the  scene  of  the  disturbances  in  Ozaukee 
couuty. 

The  steamers  Comet  and  Sunbeam  had  previously  been  chartered  by  the  gover 
nor,  and  at  half  past  three  o'clock  Wednesday  morning  took  their  departure  for 
Port  Washington,  with  the  provost-marshal-general  and  troops  on  board. 

The  propeller  Kenosha,  which  arrived  here  at  nine  o'clock  Tuesday  night, 
brought  information  that  the  mob  at  Ozaukee  had  three  pieces  of  artillery,  one 
of  which  was  planted  on  the  pier,  and  two  on  an  elevation  commanding  the  pier, 
and  that  they  threatened  to  prevent  the  landing  of  troops.  To  prevent  a  colli 
sion  at  the  pier,  it  was  understood  the  troops  would  be  landed  at  Port  Ulao,  five 
miles  this  side,  and  marched  into  Port  Washington  before  daylight  this  morning. 

P.  S. — The  Comet  has  just  returned — two  o'clock.  The  troops  landed  at  Port 
Ulao  and  proceeded  by  land  to  Port  Washington,  arriving  about  seven  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  The  rioters  were  completely  taken  by  surprise,  not  one  of  them 
expecting  that  anything  would  be  done  by  the  State  or  United  States  authorities. 

Seventy  of  the  rioters  have  been  captured  and  are  in  the  custody  of  provost- 
marshal  Mclndoe.  Some  prominent  citizens  of  Port  Washington  are  among  the 
prisoners.  The  destruction  is  represented  as  much  greater  than  at  first  reported, 
six  houses  having  been  gutted.  Clothing,  furniture,  and  pianos  were  piled  up  in 
promiscuous  confusion. 

The  troops  marched  to  the  rear  of  the  town  on  the  west  side.  Colonel 
Lewis,  immediately  sent  out  scouts  and  extended  his  lines  so  as  to  completely 


472  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

surround  the  town.  Advancing  in  this  manner,  the  scouts  soon  came  in  contact 
with  some  of  the  rioters,  who  appeared  frightened  out  of  their  wits,  having  be 
come  aware  of  the  presence  of  a  body  of  troops.  They  rushed  wildly  from  one 
side  of  the  town  to  the  other,  endeavoring  to  make  their  escape.  But  it  was  no 
use.  The  lines  of  the  soldiers  gradually  closed  up,  and  the  rioters  were  com 
pletely  bagged — caught  amid  the  ruin  and  destruction  they  had  made.  In  a  very 
short  time  the  soldiers  had  arrested  about  seventy,  including  several  women. 
The  prisoners  were  taken  and  confined  in  the  courthouse  under  guard.  We  can 
only  surmise  what  will  be  the  fate  of  the  men.  The  law  provides  that  all  who 
resist  or  counsel  resistance  to  the  draft  shall  be  sentenced  to  serve  in  the  ranks 
of  the  army  during  the  war.  This  is  a  very  mild  sentence,  and  will  be  carried 
out  to  the  letter. 

Arrival  of  the  Rioters  in  Milwaukee. — The  steamer  Sunbeam  brought  here 
this  morning  81  of  the  Ozaukee  rioters,  who  were  under  the  charge  of  a  detach 
ment  from  the  28th,  consisting  of  Captain  White's  company.  The  company 
marched  through  the  city  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square,  with  the  prisoners  in 
the  center.  They  looked  decidedly  crestfallen,  and  were  probably  deeply  ashamed 
of  the  scrape  they  have  got  themselves  into.  They  have  been  taken  to  Camp 
Washburn,  and  will  undoubtedly  be  put  into  the  army  without  any  further  chance 
of  a  draft. 

Resistance  to  the  Draft  in  Washington  county. — Some  of  the  citizens  of  Wash 
ington  county,  catching  the  contagion  from  Ozaukee  county,  disgraced  themselves 
and  the  state  nearly  to  the  same  extent  on  Tuesday  as  was  the  case  in  the  latter 
county. 

On  Monday  there  was  no  disturbance,  and  Mr.  E.  H.  Gilson,  the  commissioner, 
completed,  successfully,  at  West  Bend,  the  draft  for  the  towns  of  Barton,  Farm- 
ington,  Jackson,  Kewaxcum  and  West  Bend,  employing  a  little  girl  to  draw  the 
ballots.  Tuesday,  in  taking  up  the  town  of  Trenton,  a  large  crowd  packed  the 
court  house,  and  as  soon  as  it  was  completed  began  to  shout. 

Sheriff  Weimar  and  B.  S.  Weil  endeavored  to  stem  the  tide,  and  counseled  obe 
dience  to  the  laws.  It  was  of  no  use,  however,  and  Mr.  Gilson,  and  the  little  girl, 
were  advised  to  leave  the  building,  which  they  did  in  haste.  Gilson  started  for 
L.  F.  Frisby's  office,  but  was  overtaken  by  15  or  20  excited  men,  one  of  whom 
caught  him  by  the  throat,  another  by  the  watch-guard,  and  another  struck  him  a 
heavy  blow  in  the  right  side  with  a  stone  of  the  size  of  a  man's  two  fists.  They 
told  him  to  give  up  the  rolls  containing  the  list  of  men  subject  to  draft,  or  they 
would  murder  him  on  the  spot. 

He  evaded  their  demands  as  well  as  he  could,  meanwhile  falling  back  until  he 
reached  Mr.  Frisby's  office,  when  he  expostulated  with  them  and  appealed  to  them. 
Frisby  and  Weil  did  the  same,  and  in  the  meantime  Gilson  managed  to  get  into 
the  office  and  escaped  from  the  back  door,  seizing  upon  his  overcoat  with  his  revolver 
in  it  as  he  escaped.  A  friend  who  had  left  a  horse  in  the  woods,  about  a  half  a 
mile  distant,  for  him,  informed  him  of  what  he  had  done,  and  he  was  not  long  in 
reaching  the  horse,  which  he  mounted  and  made  for  Hartford  at  the  top  of  his 
speed.  When  near  that  place  he  met  five  or  six  men  on  horseback,  armed  with 
clubs,  going  in  the  direction  of  West  Bend.  They  called  to  him : 

"  Are  you  running  away  from  the  draft  ?" 

"  No,  but  they  are  drafting  you  right  fast  up  at  West  Bend." 

"  By  G — d,  we'll  .see  about  that,"  they  replied,  and  put  spurs  to  their  horses. 

Mr.  Gilson  reached  Hartford  in  time  to  get  aboard  the  train,  and  at  once  came 
to  Milwaukee.  He  at  once  left  here  for  Madison,  arriving  there  yesterday  morn 
ing.  He  is  an  old  resident  of  Washington  county,  and  has  hitherto  been  one  of 
the  most  influential  men  there. 

Mr.  Gilson  resides  at  Newburg,  in  that  county.  He  expects  to  hear  that  his 
house  has  been  destroyed,  and  his  family  insulted  and  outraged.  These  high 
handed  proceedings  call  for,  and  will,  we  doubt  not,  receive  prompt  and  vigorous 
action  on  the  part  of  the  executive. 


IN  WISCONSIN. 

Two  Hundred  Arrests  made — Trouble  in  other  Towns. — OZAUKBE,  Wednesday 
Evening.  EDITORS  SENTINEL  : — I  have  but  a  few  minutes  to  write  before  the  Sun 
beam  leaves  with  eighty-one  "  rebels  "  on  board,  bound  for  Fort  Lafayette  and  a 
job  of  dirt  digging.  The  work  of  repressing  the  outbreak  goes  bravely  on. 
Nearly  200  arrests  have  been  made,  and  a  detachment  of  200  soldiers  have  gone 
to  Saukville  to  suppress  a  riot  there. 

A  squad  of  20  soldiers  were  out  this  P.  M.,  near  Belgium,  and  were  attacked  by 
a  body  of  men,  outnumbering  them  six  or  seven  to  one.  The  boys  stood  their 
ground  bravely,  wounding  one  of  the  rebels  severely,  if  not  fatally,  and  capturing 
fifty-nine.  Two  others  brought  in  nine  before  dark. 

Marshal  Mclndoe  is  doing  his  work  well,  and  is  ably  assisted  by  the  officers 
and  men  belonging  to  the  department.  They  are  sustained  by  the  citizens,  and 
it  is  more  than  probable  that  mob  law  will  receive  a  lesson  which  will  be  remem 
bered  for  some  time. 

A  six-pounder  field  piece  was  captured  about  nine  o'clock  this  morning,  and  is 
now  under  guard  at  the  court-house.  The  insurgents  were  well  armed,  but  are 
no  match  for  the  volunteers  who  are  sustaining  the  cause  of  law  and  order. 

The  feeling  of  satisfaction  is  universal  among  the  citizens  and  passengers. 

The  town  presents  a  sad  appearance.  Seven  buildings  are  completely  gutted. 
Four  elegant  pianos  are  among  the  property  destroyed. 


MINNESOTA. 


MINNESOTA  derives  its  name  from  the  Minnesota  River.  The  water  of  this 
river  is  clear,  but  has  a  blueish  hue,  owing  to  the  peculiar  colored  clay  of  its 

bed.  The  name,  Minnesota,  indicates 
this  peculiarity,  and  signifies  "  sky- 
tinted  water."  In  1679,  Father  Hen- 
nepin,  a  Dutch  Franciscan  friar,  and 
two  others,  of  La  Salle's  expedition, 
accompanied  the  Indians  to  their 
villages,  180  miles  above  the  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony.  "He  was  the  first 
European  who  ascended  the  Missis 
sippi  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wis 
consin;  the  first  to  name  and  describe 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony;  the  first 
to  present  an  engraving  of  the  Falls 
of  Niagara  to  the  literary  world.* 
The  first  white  man  who  visited 
the  soil  of  Minnesota  was  a  French 
man,  Daniel  Greysolon  du  Luth,  who 
in  1678  left  Quebec  to  explore  the 
country  of  the  Assineboines.  On  the 
2d  of  July,  of  the  next  year,  he  planted  the  king's  arms  in  Kathio,  the  great 
village  of  the  Dakotahs,  and,  in  the  succeeding  September,  convened  a  coun 
cil  of  the  Indian  nations  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior.  He  built  a  fort,  a 
trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  Pigeon  River,  and  advanced  as  far  as  Mille  Lac. 
In  June,  1680,  leaving  his  post,  he  met  Hennepin  among  the  Dakotahs,  and 
descended  the  Mississippi  with  him.  Before  the  termination  of  that  century, 
other  Frenchmen  also  visited  Minnesota. 

In  1689,  Perrot,  accompanied  by  Le  Sueur,  Father  Marest,  and  others,  took 
formal  possession  of  Minnesota,  in  the  name  of  the  French  king.  They  also 
built  a  fort  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Pepin,  just  above  its  entrance — the 


ARMS  OF   MINNESOTA. 
MOTTO— Leloile  du  Nord—The  Star  of  the  North. 


*  From  "  The  History  of  Minnesota,  from  the  Earliest  French  Exploration  to  the  Present 
Time ;  by  Edward  Duffield  Neill,  Secretary  of  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society.  Phila 
delphia,  T.  B.  Lippincott  &  Co.,  1858." 

(475) 


476  MINNESOTA. 

first  French  establishment  in  Minnesota.  Le  Sueur,  in  1695,  built  a  second 
post,  on  an  island  below  the  St.  Croix. 

At  this  period,  Le  Sueur  discovered,  as  he  supposed,  a  copper  mine  on 
Blue  Earth  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Minnesota.  He  returned  in  1700,  built 
a  fort  on  the  Minnesota,  remained  during  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring  de 
scended  the  Mississippi,  with  one  hundred  tuns  of  blue  and  green  earth 
destined  for  France:  but  it  is  not  known  that  he  ever  returned. 

Within  the  next  60  years,  Minnesota  was  visited  by  the  French  fur  traders. 
In  1763,  Capt.  Jonathan  Carver,  a  native  of  Connecticut,  visited  the  country, 
and  subsequently  published  his  travels  in  England,  in  which  he  first  called 
the  attention  of  the  civilized  world  to  the  existence  of  the  ancient  monu 
ments  in  the  Mississippi  valley,  whioh  h^  dis<^ver<Ml  %  the  vicinity  of  Lake 
Pepin,  and  described.  He  also  described  a  cave  near  St.  Paul,  which  bears 
his  name  to  this  day.  He  designed  to  have  returned  to  the  country,  with 
which  he  was  greatly  delighted:  but  the  American  Revolution  intervening 
prevented. 

"After  the  French  came  the  British  fur  traders.  The  British  North-west  Fur  Company 
occupied  trading  posts  at  Sandy  Lake,  Leech  Lake,  and  other  central  points  within  the 
limits  of  Minnesota.  That  at  Sandy  Lake  was  built  in  1794,  the  year  of  Wayne's  victo 
ry.  It  was  a  large  stockade,  and  contained  two  rows  of  buildings  used  as  dwellings,  pro 
vision  store,  and  workshops.  Fort  William,  on  the  north  side  of  Lake  Superior,  eventu 
ally  became  their  principal  depot.  This  fort  was  on  so  large  a  scale  as  to  accommodate 
forty  partners,  with  their  clerks  and  families.  About  these  posts  were  many  half-breeds, 
who'se  members  were  constantly  increasing  by  the  intermarriages  of  the  French  traders 
with  the  Indian  women.  Their  goods,  consisting  principally  of  blankets,  cutlery,  printed 
calicoes,  ribbons,  glass  beads,  and  other  trinkets,  were  forwarded  to  the  posts  from  Mon 
treal,  iii  packages  of  about  90  pounds  each,  arid  exchanged  in  winter  for  furs,  which  in 
the  summer  were  conveyed  to  Montreal  in  canoes,  carrying  each  about  65  packages  and  10 
men.  The  Mackinaw  Company,  also  English  merchants,  had  their  headquarters  at  Mack 
inaw,  while  their  trading  posts  were  over  a  thousand  miles  distant,  on  the  head  waters  of 
the  Mississippi.  Between  the  North-west  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  a  powerful  ri 
valry  existed.  The  boundaries  of  the  latter  not  being  established,  desperate  collisions 
often  took  place,  and  the  posts  of  each  were  frequently  attacked.  When  Lieut.  Pike 
ascended  the  upper  Mississippi  in  1805,  he  found  the  fur  trade  in  the  exclusive  possession 
of  the  North-west  Company,  which  was  composed  wholly  of  foreigners.  Although  the 
lake  posts  were  surrendeTed  to  our  government  in  1796,  American  authority  was  not  felt 
in  that  quarter  until  after  the  war  of  1812,  owing  to  the  influence  the  English  exercised 
over  the  Indians.  It  was  from  fear  of  American  rivalry  that  the  British  fur  traders  insti 
gated  the  Indians  to  border  wars  against  the  early  settlements.  In  1816,  congress  passed 
a  law  excluding  foreigners  from  the  Indian  trade." 

In  1800,  when  the  Territory  of  Indiana  was  organized,  that  part  of  Minnesota  east  of 
the  Mississippi  was  included  within  it;  and  in  1803,  when  Louisiana  was  purchased,  that 
part  of  Minnesota  west  of  the  Mississippi  for  the  first  time  became  United  States  territory. 
The  first  American  officer  who  visited  Minnesota  on  public  business,  was  Zebulon  Mont 
gomery  Pike,  a  native  of  New  Jersey,  then  a  young  lieutenant  in  the  army.  His  errand 
was  to  explore  the  country,  form  alliances  with  the  Indians,  and  expel  the  British  traders 
found  violating  the  laws  of  the  United  States.  He  was  well  treated  by  them;  but  as  soon 
as  he  had  departed,  they  disregarded  the  regulations  he  had  established.  Pike  purchased 
the  site  of  Fort  Snelling,  where,  in  1819,  barracks  were  erected,  and  a  garrison  stationed 
by  the  United  States,  which  was  the  first  American  establishment  in  the  country.  Further 
explorations  were  made  in  1820,  by  Gov.  Cass;  in  1823,  by  Major  Long,  and  in  1832,  by 
Henry  R.  Schoolcraft,  the  last  of  whom  discovered  the  source  of  the  Mississippi. 

From  1836  to  1839,  M.  Nicollet  (under  whom  was  John  C.  Fremont),  was  engaged  in 
milking  geographical  surveys  in  this  region,  and  ten  years  later,  a  scientific  corps  under 
Dr.  Dale  Owen,  bv  their  explorations,  revealed  much  additional  information  respecting  the 
topography  and  geology  of  this  northern  country:  as  also  have  the  published  journals  of 
Stansburyj  Pope  and  Marcy,  officers  of  the  U.  S.  corps  of  topographical  engineers.  All 
these  surveys  and  explorations  were  by  order  of  government. 

The  first'settlers  in  Minnesota,  aside  from  the  missionaries,  fur  traders,  and  military, 
were  a  few  Swiss  emigrants  from  Pembina,  the  colony  of  Lord  Selkirk,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Red  River,  upward  of  600  miles  north  of  Fort  Snelling.  In  the  years  of  1837  and  1838, 


MINNESOTA. 


477 


they  opened  farms  on  the  site  of  St.  Paul  and  vicinity.  At  this  time  the  American  emi 
grants  had  made  no  settlements  on  the  Mississippi  above  Prairie  du  Chien.  In  October, 
1833,  Rev.  W.  T.  Boutwell  established,  at  Leech  Lake,  the  first  Protestant  mission  in 
Minnesota  west  of  the  Mississippi.  In  May,  1835,  the  first  church  in  Minnesota  was  organ 
ized  in  the  garrison  at  Fort  Snelling,  by  Rev.  Thos.  S.  Williamson  and  Rev.  J.  D.  Stevens, 
missionaries  of  the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  to  the  Dakotahs.  In  1843,  a 
settlement  was  begun  on  the  site  of  Stillwater,  a  mill  and  other  improvements  commenced. 
The  next  year  the  first  mill  in  Minnesota,  above  Fort  Snelling,  was  built  by  B.  Gervais, 
five  miles  north-east  of  St.  Paul,  at  a  point  later  known  as  Little  Canada.  In  the  year 
1842.  a  store  and  some  other  trading  shops  were  opened  at  St.  Paul,  which  made  it"  the 
nucleus  of  a  settlement. 

Previous  to  the  organization  of  Wisconsin  as  a  state,  that  part  of  Minne 
sota  east  of  the  Mississippi  was  included  within  it,  and  that  part  west  in  the 
Territory  of  Iowa. 

"  On  the  3d  of  March,  1849,  a  bill  was  passed  organizing  the  Territory  of  Minnesota, 
whose  boundary  on  the  west  extended  to  the  Missouri  River.  At  the  time  of  the  passage 
of  the  bill,  organizing  the  Territory  of  Minnesota,  the  region  was  little  more  than  a  wild 
erness.  The  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  from  the  Iowa  line  to  Lake  Itasca,  was  unceded 
by  the  Indians. 

At  Wapashaw  was  a  trading  post  in  charge  of  Alexis  Bailly,  and  here  also  resided  the 
ancient  voyageur,  of  fourscore  years,  A.  Rocque.  At  the  foot  of  Lake  Pepin  was  a  store 
house  kept  by  Mr.  F.  S.  Richards.  On  the  west  shore  of  the  lake  lived  the  eccentric 
Wells,  whose  wife  was  a  bois  brule — a  daughter  of  the  deceased  trader,  Duncan  Graham. 
The  two  unfinished  buildings  of  stone,  on  the  beautiful  bank  opposite  the  renowned  Maid 
en's  Rock,  and  the  surrounding  skin  lodges  of  his  wife's  relatives  and  friends,  presented  a 
rude  but  picturesque  scene.  Above  the  lake  was  a  cluster  of  bark  wigwams,  the  Dakotah 
village  of  Raymneecha,  now  Red  Wing,  at  which  was  a  Presbyterian  mission  house.  The 
next  settlement  was  Kaposia,  also  an  Indian  village,  and  the  residence  of  a  Presbyterian 
missionary,  the  Rev.  T.  S.  Williamson,  M.D. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  the  first  settlement,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix, 
was  Point  Douglas,  then,  as  now,  a  small  hamlet.  At  Red  Rock,  the  site  of  a  former 
Methodist  mission  station,  there  were  a  few  farmers.  St.  Paul  was  just  emerging  from  a 
collection  of  Indian  whisky  shops,  and  birch-roofed  cabins  of  half-breed  voyageurs.  Here 
and  there  a  frame  tenement  was  erected;  and,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Hun.  H.  M.Rice, 
who  had  obtained  an  interest  in  the  town,  some  warehouses  were  being  constructed,  and 
the  foundations  of  the  American  House  were  laid.  In  1849,  the  population  had  increased 
to  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred  inhabitants,  for  rumors  had  gone  abroad  that  it 
might  be  mentioned  in  the  act,  creating  the  territory,  as  the  capital." 

The  officers  appointed  by  President  Taylor  for  the  territory  were,  Alex.  Ramsay,  of  Pa., 
governor;  C.  K.  Smith,  of  Ohio,  secretary;  A.  Goodrich,  of  Tenn.,  chief  justice;  B.  B. 
Meeker,  of  Ky.,  and  David  Cooper,  of  Pa.,  associate  judges;  H.  L.  Moss,  U.  S.  district 
attorney;  and  A.  M.  Mitchell,  of  Ohio,  marshal.  The  governor  and  other  officers  soon 
after  arrived  at  St.  Paul,  and  on  the  1st  of  June  the  territorial  government  was  organized. 
Henry  H.  Sibley,  of  Mich.,  was  shortly  after  elected  the  first  delegate  to  congress.  The 
territorial  legislature  met  on  the  3d  of  September,  and  elected  David  Olmsted  president 
of  the  council,  and  Joseph  W.  Furber  as  speaker  of  the  house.  The  next  day  they  assem 
bled  in  the  dining  room  of  the  town  hotel,  and,  after  a  prayer  by  Rev.  E.D.  Neill,the  gov 
ernor  delivered  his  message.  One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  body  was  to  incorporate  "  the 
Historical  Society  of  Minnesota."  The  total  population  of  the  territory,  on  the  llth  of 
June,  1849,  was  4,049. 

On  the  33d  of  Feb.,  1856,  the  U.  S.  senate  authorized  the  people  of  Minnesota  to  form 
a  state  constitution,  preparatory  to  admission  into  the  Union.  This  was  effected  in  the 
succeeding  October,  and  on  the  7th  of  April,  1858,  the  senate  passed  the  bill  admitting 
Minnesota  into  the  Union.  Henry  M.  Rice  and  James  Shields  were  the  first  representa 
tives  of  the  new  state  in  the  national  senate.  In  a  census  taken  in  1857,  preliminary  to 
admission,  the  population  was  ascertained  to  be  150,037. 

Like  all  new  states,  Minnesota  has  been  injured  by  the  spirit  of  speculation  in  land, 
especially  in  town  sites.  Prior  to  the  commercial  revulsion  of  1857,  it  was  estimated  that 
868  town  sites  had  been  recorded,  enough  to  accommodate  a  town  population  of  over  two 
million. 

Minnesota  extends  from  latitude  43°  30' to  48°,  and  in  longitude  from 
80°  29'  to  91°  12':  it  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  Lake  Superior  and  Wiscon- 


478  MINNESOTA. 

sin;  on  the  N.  by  the  British  Possessions;  on  the  W.  by  Dakotah  Terri 
tory,  and  on  the  S.  by  Iowa :  its  greatest  length  north  and  south  is  380  miles, 
and  it  has  a  breadth  varying  from  183  to  358  miles:  total  area  81,259  square 
miles. 

Minnesota  occupies  the  elevated  plateau  of  North  America.  At  the  "highth  of 
land,"  or  Hauteurs  des  Terres,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  lat.  47  deg.  7  min. 
and  long.  95  deg.,  "are  the  sources  of  the  three  great  river  systems  of  the  conti 
nent  The  slopes  of  the  adjacent  valleys,  meeting  upon  this  central  ridge,  give  to 
the  surface  of  Minnesota,  with  the  general  aspect  of  an  undulating  plain,  the  shape 
of  a  pyramidal  roof,  down  whose  opposite  sides  the  waters  descend  to  their  ocean 
outlets."  Two  thirds  of  this  surface  feeds  the  Mississippi  with  its  waters,  which 
thus  find  their  way  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  while  the  remainder  of  the  surface  con 
tributes  in  about  equal  proportions  to  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  flowing  into 
Hudson's  Bay,  and  to  Lake  Superior,  whose  final  outlet  to  the  ocean  is  through  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  The  Highth  of  Land  is  about  1,500  feet  above  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  and  is  the  only  hilly  region,  excepting  the  trap  summits  north  of  Lake 
Superior. 

The  majestic  Mississippi  takes  its  rise  among  the  hills  of  Lake  Itasca,  and  flows 
for  797  miles  through  the  state.  The  Minnesota,  470  miles  long,  empties  into  the 
Mississippi  five  miles  above  St.  Paul,  and  is  now  navigable  for  steamers  for  238 
miles,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Medicine.  The  Red  River  has  a  length  of  379 
miles,  to  the  British  line.  The  St.  Croix  River,  so  valuable  for  its  pineries,  is  nav 
igable  for  52  miles.  Lake  Superior  washes  167  miles  of  the  border  of  the  state, 
and  the  St  Louis  River,  at  its  extreme  west  end,  is  navigable  21  miles. 

Hon.  B.  B.  Meeker,  a  ten  years'  resident  in  Minnesota,  writing  in  1860,  gives  a 
description  of  its  climate,  soil  and  general  resources,  which  we  copy  in  an  abridged 
form; 

The  climate  of  Minnesota  is  already  proverbially  good.  Its  complete  exemption  from 
all  those  diseases  and  maladies  local  to  most  new  countries,  and  so  justly  a  terror  to  all  new 
comers,  is  conceded  by  all  who  have  tested  it  by  actual  residence.  There  is  hardly  a  town, 
or  city,  or  neighborhood  in  the  state,  that  is  not  able  to  bear  testimony  to  more  than  one 
complete  restoration  from  chronic  disease  of  the  lungs  or  some  of  the  varied  types  of  con 
sumption  assumed  by  that  most  subtile  of  all  the  agents  of  the  fell  destroyer. 

Perhaps  no  locality  on  our  continent  has  less  of  fever  and  ague.  Indeed,  if  there  be  any 
cases  of  this  kind,  their  origin  is  readily  traced  to  some  other  states  or  territories,  and  but 
a  short  residence  is  necessary  to  eradicate  it  entirely.  Hundreds  and  hundreds  of  families 
are  annually  driven  from  other  western  states  to  take  up  their  residence  in  Minnesota,  to 
escape  this  offensive  and  troublesome  foe  to  the  emigrant  and  his  family.  This-  is  not  only 
true  of  one,  but  of  every  portion  of  the  state ;  and  what  is  very  remarkable,  it  is  just  as 
healthy  around  the  lake  shores  and  along  the  valleys  of  our  water  courses,  as  upon  the 
prairies  and  table  lands  of  the  interior.  In  no  part  of  America  are  the  seasons  better  de 
fined  or  more  emphatically  marked. 

We  will  commence  with  the  spring.  This  season  usually  begins  about  the  middle  of 
March,  when  the  snow  begins  to  melt  and  disappear  suddenly.  April  is  fickle  and  fluctu 
ating — May  tranquil,  warm,  and  genial.  The  latter  part  of  April  the  farmers  plant  pota 
toes  and  sow  their  spring  wheat.  About  the  first  of  May  they  sow  their  oats,  and  about 
the  tenth  plant  their  corn.  After  the  first  of  May  frosts  rarely  ever  appear,  certainly  not 
to  the  same  extent  they  do  in  states  further  south  and  east.  This  is  a  very  remarkable  fact, 
and  is  demonstrated  yearly.  I  was  informed  by  an  aged  missionary,  in  the  spring  of  1849, 
that  he  had  lived  in  the  country  then  sixteen  years,  and  that  he  had  observed  the  appear 
ance  of  frost  averaged  two  weeks  earlier  in  northern  Illinois  than  in  Minnesota.  Why  this 
difference  in  favor  of  a  more  northern  state,  is  an  interesting  problem  for  philosophers  and 
geologists,  with  whom  I  leave  the  solution — the  fact,  however,  is  incontestable. 

Summer  in  this  state  is  indeed  hot,  sometimes  even  overpowering;  but  always  succeeded 
by  cool,  breezy,  delicious  nights.  Sleep  here  is  repose  indeed,  and  not  exhaustion,  as  in 
more  southern  states.  In  no  part  of  the  world  do  crops  grow  more  rapidly  than  in  Minne 
sota,  owing  chiefly  to  two  causes,  the  intense  heat  of  summer  days  and  the  warm  nature  of 
the  soil.  This  peculiarity  of  the  soil  and  climate  explains  the  hurried  and  swift  maturity 
of  the  various  species  of  corn,  that  many  who  have  not  witnessed  the  fact,  believe  can  not 
ripen  with  any  degree  of  certainty  north  of  Ohio  or  Illinois.  This  quick  action  of  the  sun 
and  soil  on  vegetation  and  grain,  is  necessarily  a  spur  to  the  farmer,  who  is  hurried  from 
one  department  of  his  labor  to  another  without  much  time  for  rest  or  relaxation.  At  first 
he  will  be  apt  to  conclude  that  the  planting  of  corn  is  too  close  on  the  sowing  of  wheat, 
oats,  and  barley  ;  and  the  weeding  of  the  former  too  near  the  harvesting  of  the  latter.  But 


MINNESOTA.  479 

he  will  soon  learn  by  observation  and  experience  to  keep  them  separate  and  apart  by  taking 
time  by  the  forelock. 

The  autumns  of  Minnesota  are  bright,  clear,  and  dry — well  adapted  to  the  cutting  and 
curing  of  hay,  and  the  in-gathering  of  the  crops.  It  is  also  the  best  season  for  sport,  as 
hunting,  fishing,  and  driving.  No  state  in  the  Union  has  better  natural  roads  and  thorough 
fares,  and  at  this  season  you  can  safely  drive  a  carriage  to  the  Red  River — thence  down 
that  rich  valley  of  land  to  the  British  interior — or  westward  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  or 
southerly  to  Iowa  or  Missouri.  A  good  team  road  you  can  find  at  this  season  in  almost 
any  direction,  and  perfect  health  by  the  way. 

The  winter  here  is  cold,  dry,  and  severe.  Snow  falls  for  sleighing  generally  about  the 
twentieth  of  November,  and  from  that  time  to  Christmas.  After  that  but  little  snow  falls, 
and  it  is  uniform  winter  till  spring  comes,  when  it  makes  its  exit  rather  unceremoniously. 
But  let  no  one  suppose  that  winter  here  is  cheerless  and  void  of  social  interest.  In  no  part 
of  the  country  are  there  more  social  appliances  and  social  pleasures  than  in  Minnesota. 
Lyceums,  lecture-rooms,  social  and  dancing  parties,  sleighing  excursions  by  day  and  by 
moonlight,  are  common  sources  of  pleasure  from  the  capitol  to  the  country  hamlet.  This, 
too,  is  the  season  for  harvesting  the  pine  forest — an  employment  half  business  and  half 
pleasure — a  crop  gathered  in  the  winter  and  manufactured  and  sold  in  the  spring  and 
summer. 

Minnesota,  like  all  the  other  states,  has  more  or  less  of  poor  or  indifferent  soil;  at  the 
same  time  few  states  in  the  Union  have  more  productive  or  remunerating  lands  than  Min 
nesota,  and  these  are  admirably  distributed  so  as  ultimately  to  equalize  the  population 
through  the  several  important  districts  marked  by  the  physical  geography  of  the  country. 
The  great  natural  subdivisions  of  the  state  are  : 

I.  The  Lake  Superior  region  or  the  region  extending  some  sixty  miles  around  the  head 
of  the  great  lake  that  bears  that  name.     This  district  is  for  the  most  part  woodland.    Most 
of  the  soil  is  thin,  low,  and  wet,  with  here  and  there  a  fertile  locality  of  hard  wood,  as  ash, 
sugar  maple,  and  elm,  having  a  clay  or  hard-pan  subsoil.      But  little  of  this  region  is  at 
present  settled,  and  it  is  generally  unknown  to  the  emigrating  public,  as  no  road  has  yet 
been  completed — from   Superior  City  to  the  Mississippi — a  distance  of  eighty  miles  only. 
It  is  to  be  regretted,  and  the  government  is  to  be  blamed,  that  it  has  never  constructed  this 
road  either  for  military  or  postal  purposes,  as  well  as  for  calling  into  requisition  and  settle 
ment  a  large  tract  of  the  public  domain,  thus  uniting,  by  a  comparatively  small  expense, 
the  two  great  valleys  of  the  continent,  the  Lake  and  Mississippi.     It  would  be  essentially 
a  national  highway,  and  would  speedily  force  into   settlement  all  the  cultivable  lands  be 
tween  the  two  mighty  waters.     This,  too,  is   the  mineral,  the  copper  and  iron   district  of 
Minnesota — the  only  region  in  America  where  copper  is  found  in  massive  purity.     When  the 
slumbering  wealth  of  this  region  shall  be  appreciated,  and  capital  and  operatives  shall  have 
found  a  lodgment  in  this  portion  of  Minnesota,  agriculture  in  this  vicinity  will  find  an  in 
exhaustible  market  and  a  rich  reward  at  the  head  of  the  lake. 

II.  In  the  north-west  of  the  state,  heads  the  great  valley  or  basin  of  the  Red  River  of 
the  North.     This  is  almost  a  distinct  region  of  country,  and  has  many  peculiarities  in  soil 
and  population.     The  valley  proper,  is  about  thirty  miles  in  width,  being  timbered  and 
prairie  and  of  the  very  richest  soil,  composed  of  a  deep  black  loam,  resting  upon  a  clayey 
foundation.     This  is  a  vast  luxuriant  grass  region — the  ancient  paradise  of  the  buffalo  herds 
— from  which  they  have  just  been  driven  by  the  vanguard  and  outpost  of  our  progressive 
population.     This  great  valley  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  hemp,  barley, 
maize,  wheat,  oats,  and  potatoes. 

III.  The  Upper  Mississippi.     By  this  I  mean  so  much  of  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Mis 
sissippi  as  lies  north  of  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.     On  the  east  side  or  left  hand  of  this 
river,  from  its  source  to  the  falls,  the  soil  is  generally  inferior,  and  yet  there  are  many  por 
tions  of  it  are  good  and  yield  well.     On  the  west  side,  however,  the  soil  is  not  only  good 
but  generally  excellent.     The  Sauk  River  valley,  the  Crow  River  valley  and  its  branches, 
are  not  surpassed  in  fertility  and  productiveness  in  any  western  state.     This  region  is  not 
only  well  settled  but  populous,  and  is  very  productive  in  wheat,  rye,  oats,  corn,  and  pota 
toes,  which  are  shipped  in  large  quantities  from  the  falls  to  St.  Louis,  the  most  accessible 
and  best  market. 

IV.  The  St.  Peter's  or  Minnesota  valley.     This  is  an  immense  district  of  agricultural  and 
grazing  lands,  stretching  south-westerly  first,  and  then  north-westerly,  embracing  a  tract 
of  some  five  hundred  miles,  fertile  in  corn,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  and  potatoes,  all  of  which 
are  easily  and  cheaply  floated  to  the  Mississippi,  thence  south  to  the  best  market. 

V.  Lower  Minnesota,  or  all  that  country  lying  west  of  the  Mississippi  and  south  of  the 
St.  Peter's  or  Minnesota  River,  including  the  very  rich  and  fertile  country  drained  by  the 
Blue  Earth.     This  whole  country  is  well  settled,  and  very  fertile  in  corn  and  wheat. 

The  crops  that  do  best  in  Minnesota  are  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  and  corn — 
the  latter  not  always  a  certain  crop.  The  average  yield  of  wheat  this  year  is  supposed  to 
be  twenty-five  bushels  to  the  acre,  the  largest  average  of  any  state  of  the  Union. 

There  is  no  mineral  coal  in  Minnesota,  but  the  country  is  otherwise  well  supplied  with 
fuel  and  means  for  manufacturing.  For  a  prairie  state,  it  is  by  far  the  best  wooded  and 


480 


MINNESOTA. 


timbered  of  them  all.  All  the  region  between  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  the  Great  Lake  is 
a  wilderness  of  wood,  except  a  narrow  belt  of  prairie  along  the  river.  All  the  great  val 
leys  above  described  have  an  abundance  of  wood  for  fuel,  fencing,  and  building  purposes. 

I  think  it  is  the  best  watered  country  in  the  world.     A  settler  can  hardly  select  him  a 
farm  in  any  part  of  the  state  that  will  not  be  near  a  spring,  a  creek,  or  lake.     Cascades  and 


St.  Paul 

waterfalls,  too,  are  to  be  found  all  over  the  state,  and  are  valued  for  their  beauty  and  util 
ity.  Water-power,  as  it  is  called,  is  inexhaustible  in  Minnesota,  and  is  rapidly  being  ap 
propriated  to  various  branches  of  manufacturing.  Flour  and  lumber  have  already  become 
important  staples,  and  command  high  and  cash  prices,  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to 
New  Orleans.  Other  manufacturing  will  soon  spring  up,  and  make  Minnesota,  in  this  re 
spect,  the  New  England  of  the  north-west. 

The  more  intense  periods  of  cold  in  the  winter  of  Minnesota,  are  shorn 
of  their  severity,  by  the  absence  of  winds  and  the  peculiar  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere,  which  imparts  an  elasticity  and  buoyancy  to  the  spirits.  It  has 
been  ascertained  by  theometrical  observations,  continued  for  many  years  at 
Fort  Snelling,  that  its  spring  temperature  is  identical  with  that  of  Massa 
chusetts;  its  summer  with  that  of  northern  Ohio;  its  autumn  with  that  of 
northern  Vermont,  and  its  winter  is  like  that  of  Montreal.  The  population 
of  Minnesota,  in  1850,  was  6,075,  and  in  1860,  176,535:  and  farms  under 
cultivation,  19,075. 


ST.  PAUL,  the  capital  of  Minnesota,  derives  its  name  from  the  Catholic 
church  which  had  been  organized  there  six  years  previous  to  the  laying  out 
of  the  town.  St.  Paul  stands  on  the  left  or  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi; 
but  at  this  particular  point  the  course  of  the  river  is  from  south-west  to 
north-east:  the  town  is  8  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  5  below 
Fort  Snelling  and  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota:  distance,  by  the  Mississippi, 
above  New  Orleans,  1,900  miles;  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  860;  above 
St.  Louis,  688;  above  Galena,  280;  above  La  Crosse,  114;  and  about  400 


MINNESOTA. 

from  Chicago  by  the  usual  route  of  travel.  The  main  part  of  St.  Paul  stands 
upon  a  plain  of  land  about  80  feet  above  the  river,  and  800  above  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  on  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  commanding  of  sites.  "  Com 
mercially,  it  is  the  key  to  all  the  vast  region  north  of  it,  and,  by  the  Minne 
sota  River,  to  the  immense  valley  drained  through  that  important  tributary 
to  the  Mississippi.  The  approach  to  it  from  below  is  grand  and  imposing. 
The  traveler,  after  leaving  Dubuque  nearly  300  miles  below,  sees  nothing  to 
remind  him  of  a  city  until  he  rounds  the  bend  in  the  river  below  St.  Paul, 
when  her  tall  spires,  substantial  business  houses,  and  neat  dwellings  burst 
upon  his  view."  St.  Paul  is  near  the  geographical  center  of  the  continent, 
and  is  the  prominent  business  point  of  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  fertile, 
and  healthy  of  countries.  Population  1860,  10,401. 

The  first  settlers  at  St.  Paul  were  the  Swiss,  originally  from  Pembina,  Lord  Selkirk's 
colony,  on  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  In  the  spring  of  1825,  the  colonists  there  were  driven 
from  "their  homes  by  a  terrible  freshet  in  the  river,  consequent  upon  the  melting  of  the 
snows.  "After  the  flood,  they  could  no  longer  remain  in  the  land  of  their  adversity,  and 
they  became  the  pioneers  in  emigration  and  agriculture  in  the  state  of  Minnesota.  At  one 
time  a  party  of  243  departed  for  the  United  States,  who  found  homes  at  different  points  on 
the  banks  of  the  Mississippi.  Before  the  eastern  wave  of  emigration  had  ascended  be 
yond  Prairie  du  Chien,  the  Swiss  had  opened  farms  on  and  near  St.  Paul,  and  should  be 
recognized  as  the  first  actual  settlers  in  the  country."  They  first  located  on  the  laudi  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  between  St.  Paul  and  Fort  Snelling,  and  commenced  im 
provements.  In  March,  1838,  the  commander  at  the  fort  selected  this  land  as  a  part  of 
a  military  reservation.  It  was,  therefore,  withheld  from  sale.  The  settlers,  who  were 
principally  the  Swiss,  were  ordered  to  be  removed  by  the  war  department.  On  the  6th  and 
7th  of  May,  1840,  the  troops  from  the  fort,  with  undue  haste,  removed  these  unfortunate 
people,  and  destroyed  their  cabins:  they  then  removed  to  the  site  of  St.  Paul:  among 
them  were  Messrs/Massey,  Perry,  Garvis  and  Pierrie. 

"  The  year  [1838]  that  the  Dakotahs  ceded  the  land  east  of  the  Mississippi,"  says  Neill 
in  his  History  of  Minnesota,  "a  Canadian  Frenchman,  by  the  name  of  Parant,  the  ideal 
of  an  Indian  whisky  seller,  erected  a  shanty  at  what  is  now  the  principal  steamboat  land 
ing  in  St.  Paul.  Ignorant  and  overbearing,  he  loved  money  more  than  his  soul.  Desti 
tute  of  one  eye,  and  the  other  resembling  that  of  a  pig,  he  was  a  good  representative  of 
Caliban. 

In  the  year  1842,  some  one  writing  a  letter  in  his  groggery,  for  the  want  of  a  more 
euphonious  name,  designated  the  place  as  '  Pig's  Eye,'  referring  to  the  peculiar  appearance 
of  the  whisky  seller.  The  reply  to  the  letter  was  directed  in  good  faith  to  '  Pig's  Eye,' 
and  was  received  in  due  time. 

In  1842,  the  late  Henry  Jackson,  of  Mahkato,  settled  at  the  same  spot,  and  erected  the 
first  store  on  the  hight  just  above  the  lower  landing;  and  shortly  after,  Roberts  and  Simp 
son  followed,  and  opened  small  Indian  trading  shops.  In  the  year  1846,  the  site  of  St. 
Paul  was  chiefly  occupied  by  a  few  shanties,  owned  by  '  certain  lewd  fellows  of  the  baser 
sort,"  who  sold  rum  to  the  soldier  and  Indian.  It  was  despised  by  all  decent  white  men, 
and  known  to  the  Dakotahs  by  an  expression  in  their  tongue,  which  means,  the  place 
where  they  sell  miune-wakan."  * 

St.  Paul  was  laid  off  as  a  town  into  lots  in  July,  1847,  by  Ira  B.  Brunson,  of  Prairie  du 
Chien,  in  the  employment  of  residents.  "  The  names  of  those  who  were  then  sole  pro 
prietors,  barring  Uncle  Sam's  prior  lien,  were  Vetal  Guerin,  Alex.  R.  M'Leod,  Henry 
Jackson,  Hartshorn  &  Randall,  Louis  Roberts,  Benj.  Gervais,  David  Farribault,  A.  L.  Lar 
penteur,  J.  W.  Simpson,  and  J.  Demarrais."  Fora  year  or  two  the  place  showed  no  signs 
of  a  promising  future,  until  the  Hon.  Henry  M.  Rice  bought  in,  and  by  his  energy  and 
reputation  for  forecast,  "  infused  new  life  into  the  place."  When  the  territorial  bill  for 
the  organization  of  Minnesota  was  passed,  St.  Paul,  through  the  exertions  of  Hon.  Henry 
H.  Sibley,  was  named  as  the  temporary  capital.  The  act  was  signed  on  the  3d  of  March, 
184').  Says  Neill: 

"More  than  a  month  after  the  adjournment  of  congress,  just  at  eve,  on  the  9th  of  April, 
amid  terrific  peals  of  thunder  and  torrents  of  rain,  the  weekly  steam  packet,  the  first  to 
force  its  way  through  the  icy  barrier  of  Lake  Pepin,  rounded  the  rocky  point,  whistling 
loud  and  long,  as  if  the  bearer  of  glad  tidings.  Before  she  was  safely  moored  to  the  land 
ing,  the  shouts  of  the  excited  villagers  announced  that  there  was  a  Territory  of  Minnesota, 


*  Supernatural  Water. 

31 


482 


MINNESOTA. 


and  that  St.  Paul  was  the  seat  of  government.  Every  successive  steamboat  arrival  poured 
out  on  the  landing  men  big  with  hope,  and  anxious  to  do  something  to  mold  the  future  of 
the  new  state. 

Nine  days  after  the  news  of  the  existence  of  the  Territory  of  Minnesota  was  received, 
there  arrived  James  M.  Goodhue  with  press,  types,  and  printing  apparatus.  A  graduate 
of  Amherst  College,  and  a  lawyer  by  profession,  he  wielded  a  sharp  pen,  and  wrote  edito 
rials,  which,  more  than  anything  else,  perhaps,  induced  emigration.  Though  a  man  of 
H>me  glaring  faults,  one  of  the  counties  properly  bears  his  name.  On  the  28th  of  April,  ho 
issued  the  first  number  of  the  '  Pioneer.' 

On  the  27th  of  May,  Alexander  Ramsey,  the  governor,  and  family  arrived  at  St.  Paul, 
but,  owing  to  the  crowded  state  of  the  public  houses,  immediately  proceeded  in  the  steamer 
to  the  establishment  of  the  fur  company  known  as  Mendota,  at  the  junction  of  the  Minne 
sota  and  Mississippi,  and  became  the  guest  of  the  Hon.  H.  H.  Sibley. 

For  several  weeks  there  resided,  at  the  confluence  of  these  rivers,  four  individuals  who, 
more  than  any  other  men,  have  been  identified  with  the  public  interests  of  Minnesota,  and 
given  the  state  its  present  character.  Their  names  are  attached  to  the  thriving  counties  of 
Ramsey,  Rice,  Sibley,  and  Steele. 

'  As  unto  the  bow,  the  cord  is, 
So  unto  the  man  is  the  woman, 
Though  she  bends  him,  she  obeys  him, 
Though  she  draws  him,  yet  she  follows, 
Useless  each  without  the  other.'  " 


Fort  SneUiitg,  originally  called  Fort  St.  Anthony,  is  a  noted  point  in  th( 

history  of  Minnesota.  It 
stands  on  a  lofty  bluff,  5  miles 
above  St.  Paul,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Minnesota,  and 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  lat 
ter.  It  is  composed  of  large 
barracks  and  numerous  edifices, 
surrounded  by  thick  walls. 
Previous  to  the  organization 
of  Minnesota,  in  1849,  it  was 
the  only  important  point  north 
FORT  SNELLING.  of  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  was 

for  years  the  rendezvous  of  missionaries,  of  scientific  explorers,  and  of  mer 
cantile  adventurers,  on  their  way  to  the  Dakotahs.  The  scenery  at  this 
point,  up  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota,  is  surpassingly  beautiful.  The  fort 
was  named  from  Col.  Snelling.  He  was  a  brave  officer  of  the  war  of  1812, 
and  particularly  distinguished  himself  at  Tippecanoe  and  Brownstown.  He 
died  in  1828. 

In  Feb.,  1819,  the  war  department  ordered  the  5th  regiment  of  infantry  to  concentrnte 
at  Detroit,  for  the  purpose  of  transportation  to  the  Mississippi,  to  garrison  "Prairie  du  Chieu 
and  Rock  Island,  and  to  establish  a  post  as  the  head-quarters  of  the  corps  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Minnesota. 

Col.  Leavenworth  ascended  the  Mississippi  with  his  soldiers  in  keel  boats,  and  erected 
temporary  barracks  above  the  present  village  of  Mendota,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
where  they  wintered.  Col.  Snelling  subsequently  assumed  command  of  the  garrison.  On 
the  lOth  of  September  of  the  next  year  (1820),  the  corner  stone  of  Fort  knelling  WMS 
laid. 

The  wife  of  Colonel  Snelling,  "  a  few  days  after  her  arrival  at  the  post,  gave  birth  to 
the  first  infant  of  white  parents  in  Minnesota,  which,  after  a  brief  existence  ot  thirteen 
months,  departed  to  a  better  land.  The  dilapidated  monument  which  marks  the  remains 
of  the  '  little  one,'  is  still  visible  in  the  graveyard  of  the  fort.  Beside  Mrs.  Snelling,  the 
wife  of  the  commissary,  and  of  Captain  Gooding,  were  in  the  garrison,  the  first  American 
ladies  that  ever  wintered  in  Minnesota." 

The  Minne-ha-ha  Falls,  the  existence  of  which  the  genius  of  Longfellow 


MINNESOTA. 


483 


has  perpetuated  in  living  lines,  is  within  a  few  minutes  drive  from  Fort  Snel- 
ling,  or  St.  Anthony,  being  between  these  two  points. 

"  Waterfalls,  in  the  Dakotah  tongue,  are  called  ha-ha.  The  '&,  has  a  strong  gut 
tural  sound,  and  the  word  is  ap-. 
plied  because  of  the  curling  or 
laughing  of  the  waters.  The 
verb  I-ha-ha  primarily  means  /<> 
curly  secondarily  to  laugh,  be 
cause  of  the  curling  motion  of 
the  mouth  in  laughter.  The 
noise  of  Ha-ha  is  called  by  the 
Dakotahs  I-ha-ha,  because  of  its 
resemblance  to  laughter.  A. 
small  rivulet,  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Harriet  and  Calhoun,  gently 
gliding  over  the  bluff  into  an  am 
phitheater,  forms  this  gi'aceful 
waterfall.  It  has  but  little  of 
'  the  cataract's  thunder.'  Niaga 
ra  symbolizes  the  sublime ;  Ht 
Anthony  the  picturesque;  Ha-ha 
the  beautiful.  The  fall  is  about 
sixty  feet,  presenting  a  parabolic 
curve,  which  drops,  without  the 
least  deviation,  until  it  has  reach 
ed  its  lower  level,  when  the 
stream  goes  on  its  way  rejoicing, 
curling  along  in  laughing,  child 
ish  glee  at  the  graceful  feat  it  has 
performed  in  bounding  over  the 
precipice." 

St.  Anthony  is  beautifully 
situated,  on  a  gently  rising  prairie,  on  the  left  or  east  bank  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  8  miles  by  land  above  St.  Paul,  2  miles 
further  north,  and  12  by  the  windings  of  the  river,  and  also  7  miles  by  the 
latter  above  Fort  Snellirig.  "The  first  dwelling  was  erected  in  this  city  in 
the  autumn  of  1847,  and  Mrs.  Ard  Godfrey  claims  the  honor  of  having  given 
birth  to  the  first  of  the  fair  daughters  of  St.  Anthony."  Here  is  located  the 
University  of  the  State.  "Minnesota  seems  determined  to  be  in  advance  of 
other  states  in  education,  for  two  sections  in  every  township  have  been  appro 
priated  for  the  support  of  common  schools,  no  other  state  having  previously 
obtained  more  than  one  section  in  each  of  its  townships  for  such  a  purpose." 
The  celebrated  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  were  named,  in  1680,  by  their  dis 
coverer,  Louis  Hennepin,  in  honor  of  his  patron  saint. 

"They  are  only  twenty  feet  in  hight;  but  the  scenery  does  not  derive  its  inter 
est  from  their  grandeur,  but  from  the  perfect  grouping  of  rock  and  wood  and  water 
on  a  magnificent  scale.  The  Mississippi  is  upward  of  six  hundred  yards  wide 
above  the  falls.  These  are  quite  perpendicular,  and  the  water  drops  in  beautiful 
single  sheets  on  either  side  of  a  huge  mass  of  white  sandstone,  of  a  pyramidal 
form,  which  splits  the  stream.  The  rapids  below  extend  for  several  hundred  yards, 
and  are  very  broad,  divided  into  various  channels  by  precipitous  islands  of  hand- 
stone,  gigantic  blocks  of  which  are  strewn  in  grotesque  confusion  at  the  base  of 
lofty  walls  of  stratification  of  dazzling  whiteness.  These  fantastically-shupe  1 
islands  are  thickly  wooded,  and  birch  and  maple  cling  with  desperate  tenacity  to 
nooks  and  crannies  in  the  perpendicular  cliffs.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  of  >i 
character  similar  to  the  islands  in  its  stream.  The  snowy-white  houses  of  St.  A.i- 
thony  are  almost  hidden  by  the  thick  foliage  of  the  left  bank." 


MlNNE-HA-HA    FALT.S. 

'Here  the  Falls  of  Mirme-ha-ha 

Flash  ami  gleam  among  the  oak  trees, 
Laugh  ami  leap  into  the  valley." 


484  MINNESOTA. 

Situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi,  with  an  unlimited 
water  power,  St.  Anthony  has  a  fine  prospect  of  becoming  an  important  man 
ufacturing  and  commercial  city.  It  has  abundance  of  building  stone,  is  in  a 
rich  agricultural  region,  and  with  abundance  of  lumber  in  its  vicinity. 

Immediately  opposite  St.  Anthony  is  the  thriving  town  of  Minneapolis. 
An  elegant  suspension  bridge  connects  the  two  places.  "As  a  work  of 
beauty  and  art  it  can  hardly  be  surpassed,  while  it  has  the  appearance  of 
great  solidity;  its  massive  cables  being  firmly  anchored  on  either  side  in  the 
solid  rock.  The  work  was  undertaken  in  the  spring  of  1854,  and  finished 
the  next  year,  at  an  expense  of  over  $50,000,  being  the  first  suspension 
bridge  ever  built  in  a  territory,  and  the  first  to  span  the  Father  of  Waters." 
The  two  places,  St.  Anthony  and  Minneapolis,  have  unitedly  about  7,000 
inhabitants. 

Travelers  visiting  this  region  are  apt  to  be  eloquent  in  their  descriptions.  Part 
of  this  is  no  doubt  to  be  attributed  to  the  pure,  dry,  bracing  atmosphere,  which  not 
only  imparts  a  wondrous  distinctness  to  the  whole  landscape,  lending  unwonted 
charms  to  the  skies  above,  and  to  the  earth  beneath,  but  so  braces  up  the  system 
with  the  sensation  of  high  health,  that  the  stranger  looks  upon  all  things  around 
him  with  most  pleasing  emotions.  The  effect  of  this  elastic,  life-giving  atmosphere 
has,  indeed,  been  described  by  some,  as  at  times  producing  in  them  a  buoyancy 
of  feeling,  that  they  could  compare  to  nothing  but  the  exhilaration  occasioned  by  a 
slight  indulgence  in  ardent  spirits !  Here  the  weak  man  fe^ls  a  strong  man,  and 
the  strong  man  a  giant!  The  enthusiastic  Bond,  in  his  work  on  Minnesota,  says 
that,  owing  to  the  strengthening  nature  of  the  climate,  the  labor  of  one  man  will 
produce  more,  and  yield  a  larger  surplus  above  his  necessities,  than  in  any  other 
western  state  or  territory.  "We  have,"  says  he,  "none  of  the  languor,  and  debil 
ity,  and  agues,  that  turn  men  into  feeble  women  in  the  harvest  field,  as  they  have 
south  of  us.  Labor  here  stands  firmly  on  Us  legs,  the  year  round,  and  drives  things 
through!11 

Among  the  travelers  in  this  region,  who  have  spoken  in  its  praise,  is  the 
celebrated  savant  Maury,  superintendent  of  the  National  Observatory,  at 
Washington.  Says  he: 

At  the  small  hours  of  the  night,  at  dewy  eve  and  early  morn,  I  have  looked  out 
with  wonder,  love,  and  admiration  upon  the  steel-blue  sky  of  Minnesota,  set  with 
diamonds,  and  sparkling  with  brilliants  of  purest  ray.  The  stillness  of  your  small 
hours  is  sublime.  I  feel  constrained,  as  I  gaze  and  admire,  to  hold  my  breath,  lest 
the  eloquent  silence  of  the  night  should  be  broken  by  the  reverberations  of  the 
sound,  from  the  seemingly  solid  but  airy  vault  above. 

Herschell  has  said,  that  in  Europe,  the  astronomer  might  consider  himself  highly 
favored,  if  by  patiently  watching  tne  skies  for  one  year,  he  shall,  during  that  period 
find,  all  told,  one  hundred  hours  suitable  for  satisfactory  observations.  A  teles 
cope,  mounted  here,  in  this  atmosphere,  under  the  skies  of  Minnesota,  would  have 
its  powers  increased  many  times  over  what  they  would  be  under  canopies  of  a 
heaven  less  brilliant  and  lovely. 

Col.  F.  A.  Lumsden,  of  the  New  Orleans  Picayune,  writing  from  St.  An 
thony,  two  weeks  before  his  death  and  that  of  his  family  by  shipwreck,  on 
the  ill-fated  steamer  Lady  Elgin,  on  Lake  Michigan,  thus  gives  vent  to  his 
admiration : 

I  have  missed  much  by  not  having  visited  this  section  of  country  before,  and  one  can 
have  no  correct  idea  of  this  region  by  anything  they  may  hear  or  read  about  it.  The 
scenery — the  country — the  lakes  and  the  rivers — the  crops  and  the  climate  are  the  finest 
in  the  world. 

Such  scenery  as  the  Upper  Mississippi  presents  I  have  never  beheld:  its  beauties,  its 
romantic  grandeur  can  never  be  justly  described.  On  either  shore  of  this  vast  river,  for 
miles  on  miles,  stand  the  everlasting  hills,  their  slopes  covered  with  the  emerald  carpeting 
01  spring. 


MINNESOTA. 

As  a  place  of  summer  resort,  abounding  in  all  the  requisites  of  pleasure  and  health,  St. 
Anthony  excels  all  the  watering  places  of  the  fashionable  and  expensive  east.  As  for 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  they  are  ruined  by  Yankee  enterprise,  and  all  their  beauty  has 
departed.  Mills,  foundries,  dams  and  lumber  rafts  have  spoilt  all  of  nature's  romaniic 
loveliness  by  their  innovations,  and  you  would  be  astonished  to  see  the  hundreds  of  houses 
recently  erected  here,  some  of  which  are  beautiful  and  costly  specimens  of  architecture, 
that  would  prove  ornaments  to  any  city.  The  Winston  House,  at  St.  Anthony,  is  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  elegant  hotels  of  the  north-west,  built  of  stone  at  a  cost  of  $110,000, 
and  furnished  in  princely  style.  It  is  now  filled  with  southern  people. 

This  is  my  fourth  day  here,  and  I  already  begin  to  experience  the  fine  effects  of  the  in 
vigorating  climate  and  stimulating  atmosphere.  I  have  been  hunting  and  fishing,  and 
found  the  sport  excellent.  There  are  plenty  of  deer  in  the  neighborhood,  but  I  have  seen 
none  of  them  yet.  The  chief  shooting  is  the  prairie  chicken,  and  they  are  in  abundance 
in  the  plains  and  stubble  fields.  For  fishing  one  can  hardly  go  amiss.  Within  a  range  of 
from  six  to  twenty  miles  from  the  town,  are  several  magnificent  lakes.  In  all  of  these, 
the  greatest  quantity  of  fish  is  to  be  found,  such  as  perch,  of  various  kinds,  pickerel,  bass, 
trout,  etc.,  while  in  numerous  small  streams,  hundreds  of  trout — the  regular  speckled  trout 
— are  taken  daily.  A  gay  and  joyous  party  of  us  yesterday  visited  Lake  Minnetonka, 
where  we  got  up  a  very  handsome  picnic,  and  had  a  good  time.  A  party  of  six  gentle 
men,  all  from  the  south,  are  to  start  to-morrow  for  the  buffalo  grounds  of  the  Red  River 
of  the  North,  on  a  grand  hunting  expedition. 

The  Minnesota  River  and  Fort  Snelling,  as  well  as  the  pretty  little  Falls  of  Minne-ha- 
ha,  lie  between  St.  Paul  and  this  place.  From  the  hights  of  "Fort  Snelling  a  most  en 
chanting  View  of  the  rich  valley  of  the  Minnesota  is  had ;  and  the  traveler  looks  out  upon 
the  vast  plain,  stretching  away  beneath  his  vision,  with  emotions  of  surprise — almost  of 
bewilderment — at  the  stupendous  scene.  What  wealth,  what  riches  have  the  United  States 
not  acquired  in  the  possession  of  this  great  domain  of  the  north? 

Winona,  is  on  the  Mississippi  River,  150  miles  below  Saint  Paul, 
and  has  4,000  inhabitants.  It  was  named  from  the  Indian  maiden 
Winona,  who,  according  to  the  legend,  threw  herself  from  a  cliff  into  Lake 
Pepin,  and  found  a  grave  in  its  waters,  rather  than  wed  an  uncongenial 
brave.  Red  Wing  and  Hastings  are  smaller  towns,  on  the  Mississippi,  the 
first  the  seat  of  Hamlin  University,  a  methodist  institution,  and  on  that 
beautiful  expansion  of  the  Mississippi,  Lake  Pepin :  Hastings  is  25  miles  be 
low  St.  Paul. 

Mendota  is  on  a  beautiful  island,  at  the  junction  of  the  Minnesota  with 
the  Mississippi.  It  possesses  great  advantages  in  position,  and  was  for  a 
long  time  a  noted  trading  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company.  Immedi 
ately  in  the  rear  of  Mendota  rises  the  lofty  Pilot  Knob,  which  is  much 
visited. 

Beside  the  above  there  are  numerous  other  rising  towns  in  Minnesota,  of 
which  we  have  not  descriptions  at  hand,  as  Wabashaw,  Shakopee,  Le  Sueitr, 
Nicollet,  Stillwater,  Lake  City,  etc.  Whatever  descriptions  may  be  given 
of  the  rising  towns  in  the  west  are  of  doubtful  value,  excepting  as  a  matter 
of  history,  for  often  is  the  rapidity  of  their  increase  so  great,  that  the  sta 
tistics  of  one  season  are  of  no  reliability  as  a  basis  of  knowledge  a  few  seasons 
later. 


MINNESOTA. 

BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCHES,  MISCELLANIES,  ETC. 

Nicholas  Peirot  was  one  of  those  master  minds  whoso  enterprises  mark  the  his 
tory  of  their  times.  He  was  by  birth  a  Canadian,  bred  to  the  excitements  of  a 
frontier  life.  Educated  by  service  to  the  Jesuits,  he  became  familiar  with  the  cus 
toms  and  languages  of  the  savages  of  the  lakes  of  the  far  west.  Years  before  La 
Salle  launched  the  Griffin  on  Lake  Erie,  he  was  sent  by  government  on  an  errand 
to  the  tribes  of  the  north-west,  and  penetrated  even  as  far  south  as  Chicago.  He 
was  the  first  man  known  to  have  built  a  trading  post  on  the  Upper  Mississippi, 
which  he  did  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Pepin.  According  to  the  Dakotah  tradition, 
he  gave  seed  and  corn  to  their  people,  through  the  influence  of  which  the  Dakotahs 
began  to  be  led  away  from  the  rice  grounds  of  the  Mille  Lac  region. 

Loin's  Hennepin  was  born  in  Ath,  Netherlands.  He  was  bred  a  priest  of  the 
Recollect  branch  of  the  Franciscans.  From  his  youth  he  had  a  passion  for  travel 
and  adventure,  and  sought  out  the  society  of  strangers,  "who  spent  their  time  in 
nothing  else  but  either  to  tell  or  hear  some  new  thing."  Jn  1676,  he  welcomed 
with  joy  the  order  from  his  superior  to  embark  for  Canada.  He  accompanied  La 
Halle  in  his  celebrated  expedition  to  explore  the  far  west.  In  Feb.,  1680,  he  was 
dispatched  by  La  Salle,  with  two  voyageurs  in  a  canoe,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery 
up  the  unknown  regions  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  It  was  on  this  journey  that 
he  discovered  and  named  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  In  1683,  he  published,  at 
Paris,  a  tolerably  correct  account  of  his  travels  in  Minnesota.  In  1698,  he  issued 
an  enlarged  edition,  dedicated  to  King  William,  in  which  he  falsely  claimed  to 
have  descended  the  Mississippi  to  its  mouth.  His  descriptions  were' stolen  from 
the  works  of  other  travelers.  Wishing  to  return  to  Canada,  the  minister  of  Louis 
XIV  wrote,  "As  his  majesty  is  not  satisfied  with  the  conduct  of  the  friar,  it  is  his 
pleasure  that  if  he  return  thither,  that  they  arrest  and  send  him  to  the  intendant 
at  Rochefort."  '*  In  the  year  1701,  he  was  still  in  Europe,  attached  to  a  convent 
in  Italy.  He  appears  to  have  died  in  obscurity,  unwept  and  unhonored." 

Jean  N.  Nicollet  was  born  in  1790,  in  Cluses,  Savoy.  So  poor  were  his  parents 
that  he  was  obliged,  at  the  early  age  of  nine  years,  to  gain  a  subsistence  by  play 
ing  upon  the  flute  and  violin.  When  ten  years  old,  he  was  apprenticed  to  a  watch 
maker,  and  turned  his  leisure  hours  to  the  study  of  mathematics.  He  eventually 
moved  to  Paris  and  entered  the  normal  school,  later  became  a  college  professor, 
and  gained  distinction  as  an  astronomer,  receiving  the  decoration  of  the  Legion 
of  Honor.  In  1832,  he  emigrated  to  the  United  States,  poor  and  honest.  In  the 
summer  of  1836,  he  came  to  Minnesota,  and  explored  the  sources  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi,  with  scientific  exactness.  Soon  after  he  received  a  commission  from 
the  United  States  to  explore  the  sources  of  the  Minnesota,  and  at  this  time  was 
assisted  by  John  C.  Fremont.  "The  map  which  he  constructed,  and  the  astro 
nomical  observations  which  he  made,  were  invaluable  to  the  country."  Hon.  H. 
H.  Sibley,  in  his  notice  of  Nicollet,  says : 

"  His  health  was  so  seriously  affected  after  his  return  to  Washington  in  1839,  that  from 
that  time  forward  he  was  incapacitated  from  devoting  himself  to  the  accomplishment  of 
his  work  as  exclusively  as  he  had  previously  done.  Still  he  labored,  but  it  was  with  de 
pressed  spirits  and  blighted  hopes.  He  had  long  aspired  to  a  membership  in  the  Academy 
of  Sciences  of  Paris.  His  long  continued  devotion  and  valuable  contributions  to  the  cause 
of  science,  and  his  correct  deportment  as  a  gentleman,  alike  entitled  him  to  such  a  distinc 
tion.  But  his  enemies  were  numerous  and  influential,  and  when  his  name  was  presented 
in  accordance  with  a  previous  nomination,  to  fill  a  vacancy,  he  was  black-balled  and  re 
jected.  This  last  blow  was  mortal.  True,  he  strove  against  the  incurable  melancholy 
which  had  fastened  itself  upon  him,  but  his  struggles  waxed  more  and  more  faint,  until 
death  put  a  period  to  his  sufferings  on  the  18th  of  September,  1844. 

Even  when  he  was  aware  that  his  dissolution  was  near  at  hand,  his  thoughts  reverted 
back  to  the  days  when  he  roamed  along  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota  River.  It  was  my 
fortune  to  meet  him  for  the  last  time,  in  the  year  1842,  in  Washington  City.  A  short  time 
before  his  death,  I  received  a  kind  but  mournful  letter  from  him,  in  which  he  adverted  to 
the  fact  that  his  days  were  numbered,  but  at  the  same  time  he  expressed  a  hope  that  he 
would  have  strength  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  make  his  way  to  our  country,  that  he  might 
yield  up  his  breath  and  be  interred  on  the  banks  of  his  beloved  stream. 

It  would  have  been  gratifying  to  his  friends  to  know  that  the  soil  of  the  region  which 
had  employed  so  much  of  his  time  and  scientific  research,  had  received  his  mortal  remains 


MINNESOTA. 


487 


into  his  bosom,  but  tbey  were  denied  this  melancholy  satisfaction.  He  sleeps  beneath  the 
sod  far  away,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital  of  the  nation,  but  his  name  will  continue  to  be 
cherished  in  Minnesota  as  one  of  its  early  explorers,  and  one  of  its  best  friends.  The  as 
tronomer,  the  geologist,  and  the  Christian  gentleman,  Jean  N.  Nicollet,  will  long  be  re 
membered  in  connection  with  the  history  of  the  north-west. 

'  Time  shall  quench  full  many 
A  people's  records,  and  a  hero's  acts, 
Sweep  empire  after  empire  into  nothing ; 
But  even  then  shall  spare  this  deed  of  thine. 
And  hold  it  up,  a  problem  tew  dare  imitate. 
And  none  despise.' " 


Lake  Itasca  is  one  of  the  multitude  of  those  clear,  beautiful  sheets  of  water 
which  do  so  abound  in  Minnesota,  that  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  were  called,  by 

the  early  French  voyageurs, 
the  "People  of  the  Lakes." 
It  is  estimated  by  Schoolcraft, 
that  within  its  borders  are  ten 
thousand  of  these,  and  it  is 
thought,  it  is  measurably  to 
them  that  the  husbandman  of 
Minnesota  is  so  blessed  with 
abundance  of  summer  rains. 
The  waters,  pure,  sweet,  and 
cold,  abound  with  fish  of  de 
licious  flavor.  The  Indians 
often  reared  their  habitations 
on  the  margins  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  picturesque. 
T  h  e  greater  number  are 
isolated  and  destitute  of  out 
lets  ;  usually  of  an  oval  form, 
and  from  one  to  two  and  three 
miles  in  diameter,  l<  with  clear 
white  sandy  shores,  gentle, 
grassy  slopes,  or  rimmed  with 
walls  of  rock,  their  pebbly 
beaches,  sparkling  with  cor 
nelians  and  agates,  while  the 
oak  grove  or  denser  wood 
which  skirts  its  margin,  completes  the  graceful  outline." 

Among  all  these  sheets  of  water  that  by  day  and  by  night  reflect  the  glories  of 
this  northern  sky,  the  lake  named  Itasca,  from  an  Indian  maiden,  is  especially 
honored.  For  here,  from  the  lap  of  encircling  hills,  in  latitude  47  deg.  13  min. 
35  sec.,  1,575  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  2,527  miles  from  it,  by  its  own  meander- 
ings,  the  Mississippi,  the  Father  of  Waters,  finds  his  birth-place. 

Lake  Itasca  was  first  brought  to  the  notice  of  the  civilized  world  as  the  source 
of  the  Mississippi,  by  Mr.  Henry  K.  Schoolcraft,  Indian  agent  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie. 
Jn  the  summer  of  1832,  he  was  given  charge  of  an  expedition  to  visit  the  Indians 
toward  the  source  of  the  Mississippi.  Attached  to  the  expedition  was  a  military 
escort,  under  Lieut.  James  Allen,  Dr.  Houghton,  geologist  of  Michigan,  and  Rev. 
W.  T.  Boutwell,  who  was  sent  out  by  the  American  Board,  preliminary  to  estab 
lishing  missions  among  the  Indians.  They  crossed  over  from  the  west  end  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  at  two  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  13th  of  July,  reached  the 
Elk  Lake,  named  Itasca  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft.  "With  the  exception  of  traders,  no 
white  men  had  ever  traced  the  Mississippi  so  far.  The  lake  is  about  eight  miles 
in  length,  and  was  called  Elk  by  the  Ojibways,  because  of  its  regularities,  resem 
bling  the  horns  of  that  animal.  Lieut.  Allen,  the  commander  of  the  military  de 
tachment,  who  made  the  first  map  of  this  lake,  thus  speaks: 
1  From  these  hills,  which  were  seldom  more  than  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high 


LAKE  ITASCA. 
The  Source  of  the  Mississippi. 


488  MINNESOTA 

we  came  suddenly  down  to  the  lake,  and  passed  nearly  through  it  to  an  island  neai 
its  west  end,  where  we  remained  one  or  two  hours.  We  were  sure  that  we  had 
reached  the  true  source  of  the  great  river,  and  a  feeling  of  great  satisfaction  was 
manifested  by  all  the  party.  Mr.  Schoolcraft  hoisted  a  flag  on  a  high  staff*  on  the 
island,  and  left  it  flying.  The  lake  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and  from  one  to 
three  broad,  but  is  of  an  irregular  shape,  conforming  to  the  bases  of  pine  hills, 
which,  for  a  great  part  of  its  circumference,  rise  'abruptly  from  its  shore.  It  is 
deep,  cold,  and  very  clear,  and  seemed  to  be  well  stocked  with  fish.  Its  shores 
show  some  bowlders  of  primitive  rock,  but  no  rock  in  place.  The  island,  the  only 
one  on  the  lake,  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  long,  fifty  yards  broad  in  the  high 
est  part,  elevated  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  overgrown  with  elm,  pine,  spruce,  and  wild 
cherry.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  this  is  the  true  source  and  fountain  of  the 
longest  .and  largest  branch  of  the  Mississippi.'  " 


THE   INDIANS   OP   MINNESOTA. 

"  Minnesota,  from  its  earliest  discovery,  has  been  the  residence  of  two  powerful 
tribes,  the  Chippewas  or  Ojibways,  and  the  Sioux — pronounced  Sooz — or  Dah 
kotahs.*  The  word  Chippewa  is  a  corruption  of  the  term  Ojibway,  and  that  of 
Dahkotah  signifies  the  allied  tribes.  The  Winuebago  from  Iowa,  and  the  Menon- 
omies  from  Wisconsin,  have  recently  been  removed  to  Minnesota.  They  are  both 
small  tribes  compared  to  the  above. 

The  Dahkotahs  claim  a  country  equal  in  extent  to  some  of  the  most  powerful 
empires  of  Europe,  including  the  greater  part  of  the  country  between  the  Upper 
Mississippi  and  the  Missouri.  The  country  from  Rum  River  to  the  River  De  Cor- 
beau  has  been  alike  claimed  by  them  and  the  Ojibways,  and  has  been  the  source 
of  many  bloody  encounters  within  the  last  two  hundred  years.  The  Dahkotahs 
have  destroyed  immense  numbers  of  their  race,  and  are  one  of  the  most. warlike 
tribes  of  North  America.  They  are  divided  into  six  bands,  comprising  in  all, 
28,000  souls.  Besides  these,  a  revolted  band  of  the  Sioux,  8,000  strong,  called 
Osinipoilles,  reside  just  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  upon  Saskatchawan  River 
of  British  America. 

The  Dahkotahs  subsist  upon  buffalo  meat  and  the  wild  fruits  of  their  forests. 
The  former  is  called  pemmican,  and  is  prepared  in  winter  for  traveling  use  in  the 
following  manner :  The  lean  parts  of  the  buffalo  are  cut  into  thin  slices,  dried  over 
a  slow  tire  in  the  sun,  or  by  exposing  it  to  frost — pounded  fine,  and  then  with  a 
portion  of  berries,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  fat  from  the  hump  and  brisket, 
or  with  marrow  in  a  boiling  state,  and  sowed  up  tightly  in  sacks  of  green  hide,  or 
packed  closely  in  baskets  of  wicker-work.  This  '  pemmican '  will  keep  for  several 
years. 

They  also  use  much  of  the  wild  rice,  which  grows  in  great  abundance  in  the 
lakes  and  head  streams  in  the  Upper  Mississippi  country.  The  rivers  and  lakes 
of  the  Dahkotah  and  Ojibway  country  are  said  to  produce  annually  several  mil 
lions  of  bushels  of  it.  It  is  said  to  be  equally  as  nutritious  and  palatable  as  the 
Carolina  rice.  It  grows  in  water  from  four  to  seven  feet  deep,  which  has  a  muddy 
'bottom.  The  plant  rises  from  four  rfco  eight  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water, 
about  the  size  of  the  red  cane  of  Tennessee,  full  of  joints  and  of  the  color  and 
iexture.of  bulrushes.  The  stalks  above  the  water,  and  the  branches  which  bear 
the  grain,  resemble  oats.  To  these  strange  grain  fields,  wild  ducks  and  geese  resort 
for  food  in  the  summer ;  and  to  prevent  it  being  devoured  by  them,  the  Indians  tie 

*"The  Dahkotahs  in  the  earliest  documents,  and  even  until  the  present  day,  are  called 
Biaux,  Scioux,  or  Soos.  The  name  originated  with  the  early  '  voyageurs.'  For  centuries 
the  Ojibways  of  Lake  Superior  waged  war  against  the  Dahkotahs;  and,  whenever  they 
spoke  of  them,  called  them  Nadowaysuwx,  which  signifies  enemies.  The  French  traders, 
to  avoid  exciting  the  attention  of  the  Indians,  while  conversing  in  their  presence,  were 
accustomed  to  designate  them  by  names  which  would  not  be  recognized.  The  Dahkotahs 
were  inicknamed  Sioux,  a  word  composed  of  the  two  last  syllables  of  the  Ojibway  word  for 
foes." — Neill'a  Minnesota. 


MINNESOTA. 


489 


it,  when  in  the  milky  state,  just  below  the  head,  into  large  bunches.  This  arrange 
ment  prevents  these  birds  from  pressing  the  heads  down  when  within  their  reach. 
When  ripe,  the  Indians  pass  among  it  with  canoes  lined  with  blankets,  into  which 
they  bend  the  stalks  and  whip  off  the  grain  with  sticks ;  and  so  abundant  is  it 


DOG  DANCE  OP  THE  DAHKOTAHS. 


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^Aa  nofea  marked  with  accents  are  performed  with  a  tremulous 
sounded  High-yi-yi,  $c. 

voice, 

that  an  expert  squaw  will  soon  fill  a  canoe.  After  being  gathered  it  is  dried  and 
put  into  skins  or  baskets  for  use.  They  boil  or  parch  it,  and  eat  it  in  the  winter 
season  with  their  pemmican.  Beside  the  pemmican  and  wild  rice,  the  country 
abounds  in  sugar-maple,  from  which  the  Indians  make  immense  quantities  of  sugar. 
Their  country  abounds  with  fine  groves,  interspersed  with  open  plains  clothed  with 
rich  wild  grasses — their  lakes  and  rivers  of  pure  water  are  well  stored  with  fish, 
and  their  soil  with  the  whortleberry,  blackberry,  wild  plum,  and  crab  apple ;  so 
that  this  talented  and  victorious  race  possess  a  very  desirable  and  beautiful  terri 
tory. 


490  MINNESOTA. 

The  Ojibways  inhabit  the  head-waters  of  the  Mississippi,  Ottertail  and  Leach, 
De  Corbeau  and  Red  Rivers,  and  Winnipeg  Lake.  They  are  a  powerful  tribe,  al 
most  equaling  the  Dahkotahs  in  numbers:  they  speak  a  copious  language,  and  are 
of  low  stature  and  coarse  features.  The  women  have  an  awkward  side-at-a-time 
gait;  which  proceeds  from  their  being 'accustomed,  nine  months  of  the  year,  to 
wear  snow-shoes,  and  drag  sledges  of  a  weight  from  two  hundred  to  four  hundred 
pounds.  No  people  are  more  attentive  to  comfort  in  dress  than  the  Ojibways.  It 
is  composed  of  deer  and  fawn-skins,  dressed  with  the  hair  on  for  winter,  and  with 
out  the  hair  for  summer  wear. 

They  are  superstitious  in  the  extreme.  Almost  every  action  of  their  lives  is  in 
fluenced  by  some  whimsical  notion.  They  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  good  and 
an  evil  spirit,  that  rule,  in  their  several  departments,  over  the  fortunes  of  men ; 
and  in  a  state  of  future  rewards  and  punishments." 


EFFECT   OF   THE   CLIMATE   OF    MINNESOTA   ON   LTJNG  DISEASES. 
[From  the  Letters  of  the  "Rev.  Dr.  Horace  Bushnell.] 

I  went  to  Minnesota  early  in  July,  and  remained  there  until  the  latter  part  of 
the  May  following.  I  had  spent  a  winter  in  Cuba  without  benefit.  I  had  spent 
also  nearly  a  year  in  California,  making  a  gain  in  the  dry  season,  and  a  partial 
loss  in  the  wet  season,  returning,  however,  sufficiently  improved  to  resume  my  la 
bors.  Breaking  down  again  from  this  only  partial  recovery,  1  made  the  experi 
ment  now  of  Minnesota ;  and  submitting  myself,  on  returning,  to  a  very  rigid  ex 
amination,  by  a  physician  who  did  not  know  at  all  what  verdict  had  been  passed 
by  other  physicians  before,  he  said,  in  accordance  with  their  opinion,  "  You  have 
had  a  difficulty  in  the  right  lung,  but  it  is  healed."  I  had  suspected  from  my 
symptoms  that  it  might  be  so,  and  the  fact  appears  to  be  confirmed  by  the  further 
fact  that  I  have  been  slowly,  though  irregularly  gaining  all  the  summer. 

This  improvement,  or  partial  recovery,  I  attribute  to  the  climate  of  Minnesota. 
But  not  to  this  alone — other  things  have  concurred.  First,  I  had  a  naturally  firm, 
enduring  constitution,  which  had  only  given  way  under  excessive  burdens  of  labor, 
and  had  no  vestige  of  hereditary  disease  upon  it.  Secondly,  1  had  all  my  burdens 
thrown  off,  and  a  state  of  complete,  uncaring  rest.  Thirdly,  I  was  in  such  vigor 
as  to  be  out  in  the  open  air,  on  horseback  and  otherwise,  a  good  part  of  the  time. 
It  does  not  follow,  by  any  means,  that  one  who  is  dying  under  hereditary  con 
sumption,  or  one  who  is  too  far  gone  to  have  any  power  of  endurance,  or  spring 
of  recuperative  energy  left,  will  be  recovered  in  the  same  manner. 

A  great  many  such  go  there  to  die,  and  some  to  be  partially  recovered  and  then 
die :  for  I  knew  of  two  young  men,  so  far  recovered  as  to  think  themselves  well,  or 
nearly  so,  who  by  overviolent  exertion  brought  on  a  recurrence  of  bleeding,  and 
died,  one  of  them  almost  instantly,  and  the  other  in  about  twenty-four  hours ;  both 
in  the  same  week.  The  general  opinion  seemed  to  be  that  the  result  was  attributa 
ble,  in  part,  to  the  overtonic  property  of  the  atmosphere.  And  I  have  known  of 
very  remarkable  cases  of  recovery  there  which  had  seemed  to  be  hopeless.  One 
of  a  gentleman  who  was  carried  ashore  on  a  litter,  and  became  a  robust,  hearty 
man.  Another  who  told  me  that  he  had  even  coughed  up  bits  of  his  lung,  of  the 
«ize  of  a  walnut,  and  was  then,  seven  or  eight  months  after,  a  perfectly  sound- 
looking,  well-set  man,  with  no  cough  at  all.  I  fell  in  with  somebody  every  few 
days  who  had  come  there  and  been  restored ;  and  with  multitudes  of  others  whose 
disease  had  been  arrested,  so  as  to  allow  the  prosecution  of  business,  and  whose 
lease  of  life,  as  they  had  no  doubt,  was  much  lengthened  by  their  migration  to 
that  region  of  the  country.  Of  course  it  will  be  understood  that  a  great  many  are 
sadly  disappointed  in  going  thither,  and  that  as  the  number  of  consumptives 
making  the  trial  increases,  the  funerals  of  the  consumptive  strangers  are  becoming 
sadly  frequent 

The  peculiar  benefit  of  this  climate  appears  to  be  from  its  dryness.  There  is  as 
much,  or  even  a  little  more  of  rain  there  than  elsewhere,  in  the  summer  months , 
but  it  comes  more  generally  in  the  night,  and  the  days  that  follow  brighten  out  in 
a  fresh,  tonic  brilliancy,  as  dry  almost  as  before.  The  winter  climate  is  intensely 


MINNESOTA. 

cold,  and  yet  so  dry,  and  clear,  and  still,  for  the  most  part,  as  to  create  no  very 
great  suffering.  One  who  is  properly  dressed  finds  the  climate  much  more  enjoy 
able  than  the  amphibious,  half-fluid,  half-solid,  sloppy,  grave-like  chill  of  the  east. 
The  snows  are  light ;  a  kind  of  snow-dew  that  makes  an  inch,  or  sometimes  three, 
in  a  night.  Real  snow-storms  are  rare ;  there  were  none  the  last  winter.  A  little 
more  snow  to  make  better  sleighing  would  be  an  improvement.  As  to  rain  in  the 
winter,  it  is  almost  unknown.  There  was  no  drop  of  rain  the  last  winter,  from  the 
latter  part  of  October  to  the  middle,  or  about  the  middle  of  March,  except  a  slight 
drizzle  on  thanksgiving  day.  And  there  was  not  snow  melting  enough  for  more 
than  about  eight  or  ten  days  to  wet  a  deerskin  moccasin  (which  many  gentlemen 
wear  all  the  winter).  The  following  statement  will  show  the  comparative  rain-fall, 
whether  in  the  shape  of  rain  or  snow,  for  three  different  points,  that  may  be  taken 
to  represent  the  whole  country ;  being  on  the  two  coasts,  and  St.  Paul  in  the  mid 
dle  of  the  continent:  San  Francisco,  spring,  8  inches;  summer,  0;  autumn,  3; 
winter,  10;  mean,  21.  St.  Paul,  spring,  6  inches;  summer,  12;  autumn,  6;  win 
ter,  2;  mean,  26.  Hartford,  spring,  10 inches;  summer,  11;  autumn,  10;  winter, 
10;  mean,  41. 

The  San  Francisco  climate  stands  first,  here,  in  dryness,  it  -will  be  observed;  but 
it  requires  to  be  noted,  in  the  comparison,  that  while  there  is  no  rain-fall  there  for 
a  whole  six  months,  there  is  yet  a  heavy  sea  fog  rolling  in  every  day,  which  makes 
the  St.  Paul  climate  really  the  driest  of  the  two.  The  beautiful  inversion,  too,  of 
the  California  water  season,  at  St.  Paul,  will  be  noticed ;  the  water  falling  here  ia 
the  summer,  when  it  is  wanted,  and  ceasing  in  the  winter,  when  it  is  not 


THE   TIMES 

OP 

THE      REBEL 

IN 

MINNESOTA. 


THIS  new  state  of  the  far  north  was  early  in  sending  her  regiments 
to  the  field.  Her  1st  regiment  was  in  that  opening  battle  of  unfortu 
nate  issue,  the  battle  of  Manassas,  in  July,  1861.  Her  2d  regiment 
in  the  succeeding  January,  was  at  the  battle  of  Mill  Springs,  Ky., 
where  the  union  troops  made  the  first  bayonet  charge  of  the  war. 

Small  in  population,  yet  MINNESOTA  contributed  20,000  soldiers  to 
the  union  army.  But  the  rebellion  had  been  in  operation  a  little  more 
than  a  year,  when  her  own  soil  became  the  theater  of  most  horrible 
tragedies,  the  suppression  of  which,  for  a  time,  absorbed  all  her  ener 
gies.  The  times  of  the  rebellion,  therefore,  was,  in  Minnesota,  also, 
the  times  of  the  bloody  scenes  of  savage  barbarity  known  as 

THE  SIOUX  WAR. 

The  most  awful  visitation  of  savage  warfare  that  ever  occurred  to 
any  community  since  the  first  settlement  of  this  continent  befel  Min- 
nisota,  in  August,  1862,  under  the  leadership  of  Little  Crow,  the  Sioux 
chief.  Sunday,  the  7th,  the  massacre  began  by  the  murder  of  six  per- 
sonys,  at  Acton,  Messier  county.  The  next  (Monday)  morning,  occur 
red  the  horrible  butchery  at  the  lower  Sioux  agency.  Some  fugitives, 
at  about  9  o'clock,  A.  M.,  carried  the  tidings  to  Fort  Ridgley,  twelve 
miles  distant.  Forty -six  men,  more  than  half  of  its  little  garrison, 
under  Captain  Marsh,  started  across  the  country  to  the  scene  of  blood. 
At  the  lower-agency  ferry  they  fell  into  an  ambush ;  when  the  cap 
tain  and  a  large  part  of  his  men,  after  a  desperate  battle,  were  slain. 
On  Wednesday,  the  savages  laid  seige  to  the  fort,  which  continued  for 
several  days. 

In  it  were  several  pieces  of  artillery,  and  which,  being  well-served, 
the  enemy  were  at  last  obliged  to  retreat.  The  German  town  of  New 
Ulm,  eighteen  miles  southwest  of  the  fort,  was  attacked,  and  one 
hundred  and  ninety-two  houses  burnt.  The  defense  was  most  heroic. 
The  defenders  were  reinforced  by  armed  bands  from  Mankato,  La 
Sour  and  other  points.  These  constructed  rude  barricades  around  a 
few  of  the  buildings  in  the  center  of  the  village,  and  eventually  suc- 

(493) 


494  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION. 

ceeded  in  driving  the  enemy  from  the  place :  but  all  outside  had  been 
laid  in  ashes.  New  Ulm,  a  few  days  before,  was  a  beautiful  town  of 
nearly  2,000  inhabitants.  Its  main  street  ran  parallel  with  the  river 
for  one  and  a  half  miles ;  the  dwellings,  the  homes  of  comfort  and 
happiness.  In  a  few  short  hours,  it  was  all  one  mass  of  ruins,  only  a 
small  cluster  of  buildings  remaining  of  what  had  been  a  smiling, 
peaceful  village.  Fort  Abercrombie  and  other  points  were  attacked 
by  the  enemy.  Off  from  the  villages,  among  the  farmers,  the  brutal 
savages  had  unobstructed  scope  for  their  cruelty.  The  country  visited 
by  them  was  studded  with  the  homesteads  of  that  most  amiable  of 
people,  German  emigrants,  who  were  the  greatest  sufferers. 

No  language  can  express  the  fiendish  outrages  perpetrated  during  this  satur 
nalia  of  savage  cruelty.  "Not  less  than  two  thousand  men,  women  and  children, 
were  indiscriminately  murdered  and  tortured  to  death,  and  barbarities  of  the 
most  hellish  magnitude  committed.  Massacre  itself  had  been  mercy,  if  it  could 
have  purchased  exemption  from  the  revolting  circumstances  with  which  it  was 
accompanied ;  the  torture  of  unborn  infants  torn  from  their  bleeding  mothers, 
and  cast  upon  their  breasts ;  rape  and  violence  of  even  young  girls  till  death 
closed  the  horrid  scene  of  suffering  and  shame.  The  theater  of  depredations  ex 
tended  from  Otter-tail  Lake  and  Fort  Abercrombie,  on  the  Red  river,  to  the  Iowa 
boundery,  over  a  front  of  200  miles,  and  from  the  western  boundery  of  the  state, 
eastwardly,  to  its  heart,  at  Fores*  City ;  an  area  of  20,000  square  miles.  Eight 
een  counties  were  depopulated ;  30,000  people  driven  from  their  homes,  and  mill 
ions,  in  value,  destroyed.." 

"  The  parts  visited  by  the  Indians  was  one  common  scene  of  ruin  and  devasta 
tion;  but  very  few  houses  left  standing,  and  those  sacked  of  everything  worth  the 
trouble  to  steal  or  effort  to  destroy — every  bed  and  mattrass,  every  blanket,  spread 
and  sheet,  every  article  of  wardrobe  taken,  every  trunk  broken  open  and  spoiled, 
every  article  of  provision  carried  off,  every  horse  driven  away,  nearly  every  house 
burned  with  everything  in  it,  and  hundreds  of  families  murdered  or  driven  into  a 
captivity  worse  than  death. 

Hardly  a  harvest  finished,  the  grain  uncut,  the  reaper  standing  where  the  horses 
were  taken  off  in  fright,  or  by  the  Indians;  unbound,  the  rake  lying  on  the  gravel; 
unshocked,  unstacked,  every  harvest-field  trodden  under  foot,  and  every  corn-field 
ravaged  by  herds  of  cattle  howling  for  food,  where  no  hand  was  left  to  give. 

"The  outraged  inhabitants  who  escaped,  wandered  over  the  prairies,  enduring 
hardships,  trials-and  sufferings  next  only  to  death  itself.  One  little  boy,  Burton 
Eastlick,  less  than  ten  years  of  age,  alternately  carried  and  led  by  the  hand,  a 
younger  brother  of  five,  taking  every  precaution  to  avoid  being  seen  for  eighty  miles 
to  Fort  Ridgely,  and  safely  arrived  there  with  him.  A  woman  with  her  three 
children  escaped  from  her  home  with  barely  their  lives.  The  youngest,  an  infant, 
she  carried  in  her  arms;  the  other  two  girls  walked  and  ran  painfully  along  by 
her  side,  through  the  tangled  brush  and  briar  vines.  They  lived  on  wild  plums 
and  berries,  and  when  these  were  gone  by  the  frost,  on  grape-tendrils  and  roots. 
They  coverted  like  a  brood  of  partridges,  trembling,  starving,  nearly  dead.  The 
infant  died.  The  mother  laid  its  body  under  a  plum-bush;  scraped  together  a 
heap  of  -dried  leaves  and  covered  it;  placed  a  few  sticks  over  them  to  prevent  the 
rude  winds  from  blowing  them  away ;  then,  looking  hastily  around  again,  fled 
with  her  remaining  ones.  It  was  seven  weeks  ere  they  were  found  and  rescued. 
Some  of  less  nerve  completely  lost  their  minds  by  the  first  fright,  and  wandered 
about  demented  through  the  thickets  until  found." 

A  military  force  was  hastily  set  on  foot  by  the  state  authorities  and 
placed  under  command  of  General  Sibley,  who  checked  the  massacre, 
rescued  the  white  prisoners — all  of  whom  were  women  and  children — 
and,  having  beaten  the  Indians  in  two  battles,  at  Birch  Coolie  and 
Wood  Lake,  captured  2,000  of  them,  the  rest  being  scattered  as  fugi- 


IN  MINNESOTA.  40,5 

lives  in  all  directions.  These  Indian  captives  were  subsequently  tried, 
and,  a  large  number  of  them  being  found  guilty,  were  sentenced  to 
be  hanged.  The  final  execution  of  the  law,  however,  was  only  car 
ried  out  on  thirty-eight  of  the  assassins.  The  damage  done  to  that 
portion  of  the  state  which  was  the  scene  of  the  massacre,  will  not  be 
recovered  for  years  to  come.  For  more  than  a  month  a  large  part  of 
the  population  of  Minnesota  were  fugitives  from  their  devastated 
homes,  and  dependent  on  the  charities  of  their  distant  neighbors,  and 
of  the  generous  people  of  other  states  for  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Writers  of  the  time  give  these  shocking  details  of  the  massacre  at 
the  Aower  Agency  and  vicinity. 

The  signal  had  been  given,  and  almost  simultaneously  a  thousand  savage  war- 
whoops  rent  the  air.  If  massacre  alone  had  been  their  aim,  not  one  from  the 
agency  would  scarce  have  escaped;  but  the  horses  in  the  barns,  the  plunder  in 
the  stores,  and  the  hopes  of  finding  whisky,  largely  diverted  the  savages  .from  their 
murderous  work. 

Not  many  of  the  whites  had  yet  left  their  houses,  or  even  their  beds.  Some  of 
the  savages,  having  led  out  the  horses,  fired  the  barns.  Others  rushed  for  the 
stores  and  warehouse,  shooting  before  them  whomsoever  they  met,  by  the  road 
side,  before  doors,  or  behind  the  counters.  The  shelves  were  soon  emptied,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  squaws,  who  had  followed  for  the  purposes  of  plunder,  and 
the  spoil  carried  away  to  be  quarreled  over  among  themselves.  Barrels  were 
rolled  into  the  street,  boxes  tumbled  out,  and  the  buildings  enveloped  in  flames. 
Then  they  burst  into  the  mission  chapel,  boarding-house,  and  other  dwellings, 
tomahawk  in  hand.  Home  were  hewn  to  pieces  ere  they  had  scarce  left  their  beds ; 
others  received  their  death-wounds  leaping  from  windows  or  endeavoring  to 
escape. 

But  who  can  tell  the  story  of  that  hour  ?  of  the  massacre  of  helpless  women 
and  children,  imploring  mercy  from  those  whom  their  own  hands  had  fed,  but 
whose  blood-dripping  hatchets  the  next  crashed  pitiously  through  their  flesh  and 
bone — of  the  abominations  too  hellish  to  rehearse — of  the  cruelties,  the  tortures, 
the  shrieks  of  agony,  the  death-groans,  of  that  single  hour  1  The  few  that 
escaped  by  any  means  heard  enough,  saw  enough,  felt  enough  to  engage  their  ut 
most  powers.  Those  that  staid  behind  never  told  their  story.  From  house  to 
house  the  torch  soon  followed  the  hatchet;  the  flames  enveloped  alike  the  dead, 
dying  and  wounded.  Tired  of  butchery  in  detail  the  savages  fired  a  dwelling, 
and  in  it  burned  alive  a  mother  and  her  five  children ;  a  few  of  their  charred 
bones  were  afterward  found  among  the  ashes.  Some  escaped  through  back  doors, 
over  fields,  down  the  side  of  the  bliff  to  the  river.  Those  fortunate  enough  got 
over  by  the  ferry  or  otherwise  hastened  with  utmost  speed  to  the  fort.  Others  hid 
among  the  bushes,  in  hollow  logs  or  holes,  behind  stumps,  or  in  the  water.  Mad 
dened  with  unresisted  success — for  not  a  shot,  not  a  blow  had  yet  been  aimed  at 
them — with  fiendish  yells  the  Indians  followed  or  sought  new  victims  among  yet 
unsuspecting  settlers.  The  ferry  was  taken  possession  of,  the  ferry-man's  house, 
the  neighboring  stacks,  the  mills,  the  piles  of  lumber,  were  set  on  fire.  The 
ferry-man  himself,  tomahawked  before  his  own  door,  was  disemboweled,  his  head, 
hands  and  feet  chopped  off  and  inserted  in  the  cavity.  They  overtook  a  boy  try 
ing  to  escape.  Tearing  off  every  thread  of  clothing,  they  pricked  and  pierced 
him  with  their  blunt-headed  javelins,  laughing  at  and  mimicking  his  agony  till 
death  came  to  his  relief.  Narcis  Gerrain,  as  they  entered,  leaped  from  the  mill- 
window  for  the  river ;  ere  he  had  reached  it  of  three  shots  they  fired  at  him  two 
pierced  his  breast.  He  swam  across,  almost  drowned.  Four  days  he  went  with 
out  food,  and  after  dragging  himself,  more  dead  than  alive,  through  woods  and 
swamps,  for  sixty-five  miles,  was  found  by  a  party  of  refugees  and  carried  to  Hen 
derson.  Passing  a  stick  through  both  ankles  of  a  woman,  they  dragged  her  over 
the  prairie,  till,  from  that  alone,  torn  and  mangled,  she  died. 

Those  who  escaped  spread  the  alarm.     As  they  heard  it  the  people  fled  precip- 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

itately,  scarce  knowing  whither  they  went.  After  them  the  Indians  followed 
throughout  the  entire  line  of  settlements,  over  a  frontier  of  hundreds  of  miles, 
committing  such  barbarities  as  could  scarce  be  exceeded  if  all  hell  were  turned 
loose.  Not  far  from  the  agency  a  few  families  of  settlers  had  congregated.  The 
Indians  overtook  them.  The  first  volley  killed  the  few  men  among  them.  The 
defenseless,  helpless  women  and  children,  huddled  together  in  the  wagons,  bend 
ing  down  their  heads,  and  drawing  over  them  still  closer  their  shawls.  "  Cut- 
Nose,"  while  two  others  held  the  horses,  leaped  into  a  wagon  that  contained 
eleven,  mostly  children,  and  deliberately  in  cold  blood  tomahawked  them  all — 
cleft  open  the  head  of  each,  while  the  others,  stupefied  with  horror,  powerless 
with  fright,  as  they  heard  the  heavy,  dull  blows  crash  and  tear  through  flesh  and 
bones,  awaited  their  turn.  Taking  an  infant  from  its  mother's  arms,  before  her 
eyes,  with  a  bolt  from  one  of  the  wagons,  they  riveted  it  through  its  body  to  the 
fence,  and  left  it  there  to  die,  writhing  in  agony.  After  holding  for  a  while  the 
mother  before  this  agonizing  spectacle,  they  chopped  off  her  arms  and  legs  and 
left  her  to  bleed  to  death.  Thus  they  butchered  twenty-five  within  a  quarter  of 
an  acre.  Kicking  the  bodies  out  of  the  wagons  they  filled  them  with  plunder 
from  the  burning  houses,  and  sending  them  back  pushed  on  for  other  adventures. 

They  overtook  other  parties,  killed  all  the  men  and  children,  and  led  away  the 
young  women  and  girls  captive  for  fates  worse  than  death.  One  family  of  a  son 
and  daughter,  and  their  parents,  received  the  alarm.  Before  they  had  time  to 
escape  they  heard  the  war-whoop,  and  saw  dusky  forms  approach  the  door.  The 
father  fired  a  shot  at  them  through  the  window.  Before  he  had  time  to  load 
again  the  Indians  broke  in ;  the  family  rushed  out  by  the  back  way,  but  before 
they  had  gone  many  yards  the  father,  mother  and  son  were  killed.  The  daughter, 
seeing  herself  alone,  fell  likewise,  and  holding  her  breath  feigned  herself  dead. 
The  savages  came  up  and  commenced  hacking  and  mutilating  the  bodies.  Seiz 
ing  the  girl  by  her  feet  they  began  to  drag  her  off.  As  she  instantly  made  an  ef 
fort  to  adjust  herself,  they  took  her  and  sent  her  back  with  the  others  they  had 
captured.  Only  those  that  might  serve  their  base  passions  were  saved,  the  rest 
were  shot  down  and  butchered  or  tortured  to  death  by  inches. 

One  incident,  if  possible,  more  horrible  than  any  other,  was  perpe 
trated  on  a  member  of  the  Schwandt  family.  All  had  been  murdered 
but  a  son  of  Mr.  Schwandt,  aged  thirteen  years.  He  was  beaten  by 
the  Indians  until  dead,  as  was  supposed  ;  but  he  lived  to  relate  the  en 
tire  incidents  of  the  tragedy.  This  boy  saw  his  married  sister,  Mrs. 
"Waltz,  who  was  enciente,  cut  open,  the  child  taken  alive  from  the 
mother,  and  nailed  to  a  tree  in  the  yard.  It  struggled  some  time  af 
ter  the  nails  were  driven  through  it ! 

Mrs.  Justina  Kreiger,  in  her  narrative,  relates  some  shocking  inci 
dents.  She  was,  with  a  party  of  others,  men,  women  and  children, 
fleeing  with  their  teams,  and  for  safety,  to  Fort  Eidgely,  when  they 
were  overtaken  on  the  road  by  a  band  of  Sioux,  and  most  of  them 
butchered.  After  relating  how  she  saw  her  husband  shot,  she  contin 
ues  : 

I  now  determined  to  jump  out  of  the  wagon  and  die  beside  my  husband;  but 
as  I  was  standing  up  to  jump,  I  was  shot;  seventeen  buckshot  entering  my  body. 
I  then  fell  back  into  the  wagon  box.  I  had  eight  children  in  the  wagon  bed,  and 
one  in  a  shawl ;  all  my  own  children,  or  my  step  children.  All  that  I  then  knew 
was  the  fact  that  I  was  seized  by  an  Indian  and  very  roughly  dragged  from  the 
wagon,  and  that  the  wagon  was  drawn  over  my  body  and  ankles.  I  remained  on 
the  field  of  massacre,  and  in  the  place  where  I  fell  until  eleven  or  twelve  o'clock 
at  night,  unconscious  of  passing  events.  At  this  time  of  night,  I  arose  from  the 
field  of  the  dead,  with  a  feeble  ability  to  move  at  all. 

I  soon  heard  the  tread  of  savage  men,  speaking  the  Sioux  language.  They  came 
near  and  proved  to  be  two  savages  only.  These  two  went  over  the  field  examin 
ing  the  dead  bodies,  to  rob  them  of  what  remained  upon  them.  They  soon  came 


IN  MINNESOTA. 


497 


to  me,  kicked  me,  then  felt  my  pulse,  first  on  the  right  hand,  then  on  the  left,  and 
to  be  sure,  felt  for  the  pulsation  of  the  heart  I  remained  silent,  holding  my 
breath.  They  probably  supposed  me  dead.  They  conversed  in  Sioux  for  a  mo 
ment.  I  shut  my  eyes,  and  awaited  what  else  was  to  befall  me  with  a  shudder. 
The  next  moment,  a  sharp  pointed  knife  was  felt  at  my  throat,  then  passing  down 
ward  to  the  lower  portion  of  the  abdomen,  cutting  not  only  the  clothing  entirely 
from  the  body,  but  actually  penetrating  the  flesh,  making  but  a  slight  wound  on 
the  chest,  but  at  the  pit  of  the  stomach  entering  the  body  and  laying  it  open  to 
the  intestines  themselves.  My  arms  were  then  taken  separately  out  of  the  cloth 
ing.  I  was  seized  rudely  by  the  hair  and  hurled  headlong  to  the  ground,  entirely 
naked.  How  long  I  was  unconscious  1  can  not  imagine,  yet  I  think  it  was  not  a 
great  while ;  when  I  came  to  I  beheld  one  of  the  most  horrible  sights  I  had  ever 
seen  in  the  person  of  myself.  I  saw  also  these  two  savages  about  two  rods  off;  a 
light  from  the  north,  probably  the  aurora,  enabled  me  to  see  objects  at  some  dis 
tance.  At  the  same  time  I  discovered  my  own  condition,  I  saw  one  of  these  in 
human  savages  seize  Wilhelmina  Kitzman,  my  neice,  yet  alive,  hold  her  up  by 
the  foot,  her  head  downward,  her  clothes  falling  over  her  head ;  while  holding  her 
there  by  one  hand,  in  the  other  he  grasped  a  knife,  with  which  he  hastily  cut  the 
flesh  around  one  of  the  legs,  close  to  the  body,  and  then  bv  twisting  and  wrench 
ing  broke  the  ligaments  and  bone,  until  the  limb  was  entirely  severed  from  the 
body.  The  child  screamed  frantically,  O  God  !  O  God  !  when  the  limb  was  off. 
The  child  thus  mutilated  was  thrown  down  on  the  ground,  stripped  of  her  cloth 
ing  and  left  to  die.  The  other  children  of  Paul  Kitzman  were  then  taken  along 
with  the  Indians,  crying  most  piteously.  I  now  laid  down,  and  for  some  hours 
knew  nothing  more. 

An  interesting  description  is  given  of  the  Indian  prisoners,  by  a 
gentleman  who  saw  them  at  South  Bend.  He  writes : 

They  are  confined  in  strong  log  prisons,  and  closely  guarded,  not  so  much  to 
prevent  their  escape  as  to  secure  them  from  the  vengeance  of  the  outraged  settlers. 
They  are  the  most  hideous  wretches  that  I  have  ever  seen ;  I  have  been  in  the 
prisons  of  Singapore,  where  the  Malay  pirates  are  confined — the  Dyacks,  who  are 
the  most  ferocious  and  bloody-thirsty  of  their  kind — but  they  are  mild  and  hu 
mane  in  their  appearance,  compared  to  these  Sioux  warriors.  Quite  an  incident 
occured  while  I  was  there  :  A  boy  who  had  escaped,  after  seeing  the  murder  of 
his  mother  and  sisters,  was  brought  in  to  look  at  the  prisoners  and,  if  possible,  to 
indentify  them.  One  of  the  friendly  Indians,  who  had  distinguished  himself  by 
his  bravery  and  humanity,  accompanied  the  party  to  act  as  interpreter.  When 
we  entered  the  log  house  that  served  for  a  prison,  the  captives  were  mostly  crouched 
on  the  floor,  but  one  of  them  arose  and  confronted  us  with  a  defiant  scowl.  An 
other,  supporting  himself  on  his  arm,  surveyed  the  party  with  a  look  like  a  tiger 
about  to  spring.  The  boy  advanced  boldly,  and  pointed  him  out  without  hesi 
tancy.  Subsequent  investigation  showed  that  this  wretch  had  murdered  eleven 
persons.  The  boy's  eyes  flashed  as  he  told  the  sickening  tale  of  his  mother's  mur 
der,  and  the  spectators  could  scarcely  refrain  from  killing  the  wretch  on  the  spot 
He  never  relaxed  his  sullen  glare,  and  seemed  perfectly  indifferent  when  told  of 
his  identification  by  the  interpreter. 

The  closing  scene  in  this  fearful  tragedy,  the  execution  of  the  thirty- 
eight  condemned,  at  Mankato,  Friday,  December  26th,  is  thus  de 
scribed.     Several  of  them  smoked  their  pipes  during  the  reading  of  the 
death  warrant ;  and  but  little  emotion  was  manifested. 

On  Thursday  evening  the  ordinance  of  baptism  was  solemnized  by  the  Catholic 
priests  present,  and  received  by  a  considerable  number  of  the  condemned.  Some 
of  them  entered  into  the  ceremony  with  an  apparently  earnest  feeling,  and  an  in 
telligent  sense  of  its  solemn  character.  All  seemed  resigned  to  their  fate,  and 
depressed  in  spirits.  Most  of  those  not  participating  in  the  ceremony  sat  motion 
less,  and  more  like  statutes  than  living  men. 

On  Friday  morning,  we  accompanied  the  Rev.  Father  Ravoux  to  the  prison  of 
32 


498  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

the  condemned.  He  spoke  to  them  of  their  condition  and  fate,  and  in  such  terms 
as  the  devoted  priest  only  can  speak.  He  tried  to  infuse  them  with  courage — 
bade  them  to  hold  out  bravely  and  be  strong,  and  to  show  no  sign  of  fear.  While 
Father  Ravoux  was  speaking  to  them,  old  Tazoo  broke  out  in  a  death-wail,  in 
which  one  after  another  joined,  until  the  prison-room  was  filled  with  a  wild,  un 
earthly  plaint,  which  was  neither  of  despair  nor  grief,  but  rather  a  paroxysm  of 
savage  passion,  most  impressive  to  witness  and  startling  to  hear,  even  by  those 
who  understood  the  language  of  the  music  only.  During  the  lulls  of  their  death 
song  they  would  resume  their  pipes,  and,  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional  mut 
ter,  or  the  rattling  of  their  chains,  they  sat  motionless  and  impassive,  until  one 
among  the  elder  would  break  out  in  the  wild  wail,  when  all  would  join  again 
in  the  solemn  preparation  for  death. 

Following  this,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Williamson  addressed  them  in  their  native  tongue ; 
after  which,  they  broke  out  again  in  their  song  of  death.  This  last  was  thrilling 
beyond  expression.  The  trembling  voices,  the  forms  shaking  with  passionate  emo 
tion,  the  half-uttered  words  through  the  teeth,  all  made  up  a  scene  which  no  one 
saw  can  ever  forget.  The  influence  of  the  wild  music  of  their  death-song  upon 
them  was  almost  magical.  Their  whole  manner  changed  after  they  had  closed 
their  singing,  and  an  air  of  cheerful  unconcern  marked  all  of  them.  It  seemed 
as  if,  during  their  passionate  wailing,  they  had  passed  in  spirit  through  the  valley 
of  the  shadow  of  death,  and  already  had  their  eyes  fixed  on  the  pleasant  hunting- 
grounds  beyond.  As  their  friends  came  about  them,  they  bade  them  cheerful 
farewells,  and,  in  some  cases,  there  would  be  peals  of  laughter,  as  they  were 
wished  pleasant  journeys  to  the  spirit-land.  They  bestowed  their  pipes  upon  their 
favorites,  and,  so  far  as  they  had,  gave  keepsake  trinkets  to  all. 

They  had  evidently  taken  great  pains  to  make  themselves  presentable  for  their 
last  appearance  on  the  stage  of  life.  Most  of  them  had  little  pocket  mirrors,  and, 
before  they  were  bound,  employed  themselves  in  putting  on  the  finishing  touches 
of  paint,  and  arranging  their  hair  according  to  the  Indian  mode.  All  had  reli 
gious  emblems,  mostly  crosses,  of  fine  gilt  or  steel,  and  these  were  displayed  with  all 
the  prominence  of  an  exquisite  or  a  religieuse.  Many  were  painted  in  war  style, 
with  bands  and  beads  and  feathers,  and  were  decked  as  gayly  as  for  a  festival. 
They  expressed  a  desire  to  shake  hands  with  the  reporters,  who  were  to  write 
about  how  they  looked  and  acted,  and  with  the  artist  who  was  to  picture  their 
appearance.  This  privilege  was  allowed  them.  The  hands  of  some  were  of  the 
natural  warmth,  while  those  of  others  were  cold  as  ice.  Nearly  all,  on  shaking 
hands,  would  point  their  fingers  to  the  sky,  and  say,  as  plainly  as  they  could,  "  Me 
going  up !  "  White  Day  told  us  it  was  Little  Crow  who  got  them  into  the  scrape, 
and  now  they  had  to  die  for  it.  One  said  there  was  a  Great  Spirit  above  who 
would  take  him  home,  and  that  he  should  die  happy.  Thus  the  time  passed  dur 
ing  the  tying  of  hands,  and  striking  off  the  manicles. 

At  a  little  after  nine  o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  Rev.  Father  Ravoux  entered  the  prison 
.  again,  to  perform  the  closing  religious  exercises.  The  guard  fell  back  as  he  came 
in,  the  Indians  ranging  themselves  around  the  room.  The  Father  addressed  the 
condemned  at  some  length,  and  appeared  much  affected.  He  then  kneeled  on  the 
floor  in  their  midst,  and  prayed  with  them,  all  following  and  uniting  with  him  in 
an  audible  voice.  They  appeared  like  a  different  race  of  beings  while  going 
through  these  religious  exercises.  Their  voices  were  low  and  humble,  and  every 
exhibition  of  Indian  bravado  was  banished. 

While  Father  Ravoux  was  speaking  to  the  Indians,  and  repeating,  for  the  hun 
dredth  time,  his  urgent  request  that  they  must  think  to  the  last  of  the  Great  Spirit, 
before  whom  they  were  about  to  appear,  Provost  Marshal  Redfield  entered  and 
whispered  a  word  in  the  ear  of  the  good  priest,  who  immediately  said  a  word  or 
two  in  French  to  Milord,  a  half-breed,  who  repeated  it  in  Dakota  to  the  Indians, 
who  were  all  lying  down  around  the  prison.  In  a  moment  every  Indian  stood 
erect,  and,  as  the  Provost  Marshal  opened  the  door,  they  fell  in  behind  him  with 
the  greatest  alacrity.  Indeed,  a  notice  of  release,  pardon,  or  reprieve  could  not 
have  induced  them  to  leave  the  cell  with  more  apparent  willingness  than  this  call 
to  death.  At  the  foot  of  the  steps  there  was  no  delay.  Captain  Redfield  mounted 


IN  MINNESOTA. 


499 


the  drop,  at  the  head,  and  the  Indians  crowded  after  him,  as  if  it  were  a  race  to 
see  which  would  get  up  first.  They  actually  crowded  on  each  other's  heels,  and, 
as  they  got  to  the  top,  each  took  his  position,  without  any  assistance  from  those 
who  were  detailed  for  that  purpose.  They  still  kept  up  a  mournful  wail,  and  oc 
casionally  there  would  be  a  piercing  scream.  The  ropes  were  soon  arranged 
around  their  necks,  not  the  least  resistance  being  offered.  The  white  caps,  which 
had  been  placed  on  the  top  of  their  heads,  were  now  drawn  down  over  their  faces, 
shutting  out  forever  the  light  of  day  from  their  eyes.  Then  ensued  a  scene  that 
can  hardly  be  described,  and  which  can  never  be  forgotten.  All  joined  in  shout 
ing  and  singing,  as  it  appeared  to  those  who  were  ignorant  of  the  language.  The 
tones  seemed  somewhat  discordant,  and  yet  there  was  harmony  in  it.  Save  the 
moment  of  cutting  the  rope,  it  was  the  most  thrilling  moment  of  the  awful  scene. 
And  it  was  not  their  voices  alone.  Their  bodies  swayed  to  and  fro,  and  their 
every  limb  seemed  to  be  keeping  time.  The  drop  trembled  and  shook  as  if  all 
were  dancing.  The  most  touching  scene  on  the  drop  was  their  attempts  to  grasp 
each  other's  hands,  fettered  as  they  were.  They  were  very  close  to  each  other, 
and  many  succeeded.  Three  or  four  in  a  row  were  hand  in  hand,  and  all  hands 
swaying  up  and  down  with  the  rise  and  fall  of  their  voices.  One  old  man  reached 
out  each  side,  but  could  not  grasp  a  hand.  His  struggles  were  piteous,  and  affected 
many  beholders. 

We  were  informed  by  those  who  understand  the  language,  that  their  singing 
and  shouting  was  only  to  sustain  each  other — that  there  was  nothing  defiant  in 
their  last  moments,  and  that  no  "death-song,"  strictly  speaking,  was  chanted  on  the 
gallows.  Each  one  shouted  his  own  name,  and  called  on  the  name  of  his  friend, 
saying,  in  substance,  "  I'm  here  !  "  "  I'm  here  ! "  Captain  Burt  hastily  scanned 
all  the  arrangements  for  the  execution,  and  motioned  to  Major  Brown,  the  signal 
officer,  that  all  was  ready.  There  was  one  tap  of  the  drum,  almost  drowned  by 
the  voices  of  the  Indians — another,  and  the  stays  of  the  drop  were  knocked  away, 
the  rope  cut,  and,  with  a  crash,  down  came  the  drop.  The  cutting  of  the  rope 
was  assigned  to  William  J.  Duly,  of  Lake  Shetck,  who  had  three  children  killed, 
and  his  wife  and  two  children  captured. 

There  was  no  struggling  by  any  of  the  Indians  for  the  space  of  half  a  minute. 
The  only  movements  were  the  natural  vibrations  occasioned  by  the  fall.  After 
the  lapse  of  a  minute  several  drew  up  their  legs  once  or  twice,  and  there  was 
some  movement  of  the  arms.  One  Indian,  at  the  expiration  of  ten  minutes, 
breathed,  but  the  rope  was  better  adjusted,  and  life  was  soon  extinct.  It  is  un 
necessary  to  speak  of  the  awful  sight  of  thirty-eight  human  beings  suspended  in 
the  air.  Imagination  will  readily  supply  what  we  refrain  from  describing. 

After  the  bodies  had  hung  for  about  half  an  hour,  the  physicians  of  the  several 
regiments  present  examined  the  bodies  and  reported  that  life  was  extinct.  Soon 
after,  several  United  States  mule-teams  appeared,  when  the  bodies  were  taken 
down  and  dumped  into  the  wagons  without  much  ceremony,  and  were  carried 
down  to  the  sand-bar  in  front  of  the  city,  and  were  all  buried  in  the  same  hole. 
The  half-breeds  were  buried  in  one  corner  of  the  hole,  so  that  they  can  be  disin 
terred  by  their  friends. 

Kvery  thing  was  conducted  in  the  most  orderly  and  quiet  manner.  As  the  drop 
fell,  the  citizens  could  not  repress  a  shout  of  exultation,  in  which  the  soldiers 
jointed.  A  boy-soldier,  who  stood  beside  us,  had  his  mother  and  brothers  and 
sisters  killed  :  his  face  was  pale  and  quivering,  but  he  gave  a  shout  of  righteous 
exultation  when  the  drop  fell. 

The  people,  who  had  gathered  in  great  crowds,  and  who  had  maintained  a  de 
gree  of  order  that  had  not  been  anticipated,  quietly  dispersed  as  the  wagons  bore 
the  bodies  of  the  murderers  off  to  burial.  Few,  we  take  it,  who  witnessed  the 
awful  scene,  will  voluntarily  look  upon  its  like  again. 

I 


IOWA. 


IOWA  derived  its  name  from  the  Iowa  Indians,  who  were  located  on  the 
Iowa  River.     They  at  last  became  incorported  with  other  tribes,  principally 

among  the  Sauks,  or  Sacs  and  Foxes. 
These  tribes  had  the  reputation  of 
being  the  best  hunters  of  any  on  the 
borders  of  the  Mississippi  or  Missouri. 
At  the  time  the  first  white  traders 
went  among  them,  their  practice  was 
to  leave  their  villages  as  soon  as  their 
corn  and  beans  were  ripe  and  secured, 
to  go  on  to  their  wintering  grounds,  it 
being  previously  determined  in  coun 
cil  on  what  particular  ground  each 
party  should  hunt.  The  old  men, 
women,  and  children  embarked  in 
canoes ;  the  young  men  went  by  land 
with  their  horses ;  and  on  their  arri 
val,  they  commenced  their  winter's 
hunt,  which  lasted  about  three 
months.  In  the  month  of  April, 
they  returned  to  their  villages  to  cul 
tivate  their  lands.  Iowa  was  origin 
ally  a  part  of  the  French  province  of  Louisiana.  The  first  white  settlement 
was  made  at  Dubuque.  As  early  as  1800,  there  were  mines  of  lead  worked 
at  this  place  by  the  natives,  assisted  by  Julien  Dubuque,  an  Indian  trader, 
who  had  adopted  their  habits,  married  into  their  tribe,  and  became  a  great  chief 
among  them.  In  1830,  a  war  among  the  Indians  themselves  was  carried  on  with 
savage  barbarity.  Some  10  or  12  Sac  and  Fox  chiefs,  with  their  party,  were 
going  to  Prairie  du  Chien  from  Dubuque,  to  attend  a  treaty  conference  with 
the  U.  S.  commissioners,  when  they  were  attacked  at  Cassville  Island  by  a 
large  war  party  of  the  Sioux,  and  literally  cut  to  pieces,  only  two  of  all  their 
number  escaping.  The  tribe,  now  in  great  confusion  and  alarm,  left  Du 
buque,  mostly  never  to  return,  leaving  the  mines  and  this  part  of  the  coun 
try  vacant,  and  open  to  settlement,  as  when  occupied  by  them,  they  would 
allow  no  one  to  intrude  upon  their  lands.  In  June  of  this  year,  Mr.  L.  H. 
Langworthy,  accompanied  by  his  elder  brother,  crossed  the  Mississippi  in  a 

(501) 


ARMS  OF  IOWA. 

MOTTO— Our  liberties  we  prize,  and  our  rights  we 
will  maintain. 


502  IOWA. 

canoe,  swimming  their  horses  hy  its  side,  and  landed  for  the  first  time  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  stream.  Soon  after  this,  a  number  of  miners  crossed  over 
the  river,  possessed  themselves  of  these  vacant  lands,  and  commenced  suc 
cessful  mining  operations.  "  This  was  the  first  flow  or  the  first  tide  of  civ 
ilization  in  Iowa."  The  miners,  however,  were  soon  driven  off  by  Capt. 
Zachary  Taylor,  then  commanding  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  a  military  force 
stationed  at  Dubuque  till  1832,  when  the  "Black  Hawk  War"  commenced. 
After  the  Indians  were  defeated  the  miners  returned. 

Until  as  late  as  the  year  1832,  the  whole  territory  north  of  the  state 
of  Missouri  was  in  undisputed  possession  of  the  Indians.  After  the 
Indians  were  defeated  at  the  battle  of  the  Bad  Ax,  in  Wisconsin,  Aug., 
1832,  partly  to  indemnify  the  government  for  the  expenses  of  the  war,  the 
Sacs  and  Foxes  ceded  to  the  United  States  a  strip  of  country  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  extending  nearly  300  miles  N.  of  Missouri,  and  50  miles  wide, 
commonly  called  the  "Black  Hawk  Purchase"  Further  purchases  were 
made  in  1836  and  1837;  and  in  1842,  by  a  treaty  concluded  by  Gov.  Cham 
bers,  a  tract  of  about  fifteen  million  acres  was  purchased  of  the  Sacs  and 
Foxes,  for  one  million  of  dollars.  This  tract,  comprising  some  of  the  finest 
counties  of  the  state,  is  known  as  the  "  New  Purchase." 

The  Pottowatomies,  who  inhabited  the  south-western  corner  of  the  state, 
and  the  Winnebagoes,  who  occupied  the  "  Neutral  Ground,"  a  strip  of  coun 
try  on  the  northern  borders,  have  been  recently  peaceably  removed,  and  the 
Indian  title  has  thus  become  extinct  within  the  limits  of  Iowa.  The  terri 
tory  now  comprised  within  the  limits  of  the  state  was  a  part  of  the  Missouri 
Territory  from  1804  to  1821,  but  after  that  was  placed  successively  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  Michigan  and  Wisconsin  Territories.  The  following  conclud 
ing  details  of  its  history  are  from  Monette : 

"  The  first  white  settlement  in  the  Black  Hawk  Purchase  was  made  near 
the  close  of  the  year  1832,  at  Fort  Madison,  by  a  colony  introduced  by 
Zachariah  Hawkins,  Benjamin  Jennings,  and  others. 

In  the  summer  of  1835,  the  town-plat  of  'Fort  Madison '  was  laid  off  by 
Gen.  John  H.  Knapp  and  Col.  Nathaniel  Knapp,  the  first  lots  in  which  were 
exposed  to  sale  early  in  the  year  1836.  The  second  settlement  was  made 
in  1833,  at  Burlington,  seventy-nine  miles  below  Rock  Island.  About  the 
same  time  the  city  of  Dubuque,  four  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  above 
St.  Louis,  received  its  first  Anglo-American  population.  Before  the  close  of 
the  year  1833,  settlements  of  less  note  were  commenced  at  many  other  points 
near  the  western  shore  of  the  Mississippi,  within  two  hundred  miles  of  the 
northern  limits  of  the  state  of  Missouri.  It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1834, 
that  Aaron  Street,  a  member  of  the  '  Society  of  Friends,'  and  son  of  the 
Aaron  Street  who  emigrated  from  Salem,  in  New  Jersey,  founded  the  first 
Salem  in  Ohio,  and  subsequently  the  first  Salem  in  Indiana,  on  a  tour  of  ex 
ploration  to  the  Iowa  country,  in  search  of  'a  new  home,'  selected  the  'beau 
tiful  prairie  eminence '  south  of  Skunk  River  as  the  site  of  another  Salem  in 
the  '  Far  West.'  In  his  rambles  thirty  miles  west  of  Burlington,  over  the 
uninhabited  regions,  in  all  their  native  loveliness,  he  was  impressed  with  the 
great  advantages  presented  by  the  'beautiful  and  fertile  prairie  country, 
which  abounded  in  groves  of  tall  forest  trees,  and  was  watered  by  crystal 
streams  flowing  among  the  variagated  drapery  of  the  blooming  prairies.' 
Transported  with  the  prospect,  the  venerable  patriarch  exclaimed,  '  Now  have 
mine  eyes  beheld  a  country  teeming  with  every  good  thing,  and  hither  will 
I  come,  with  my  children  and  my  children's  children,  and  my  flocks  and 


IOWA.  503 

herds  ;  and  our  dwelling  place  shall  be  called  '  Salem,'  after  the  peaceful  city 
of  our  fathers.' 

Next  year  witnessed  the  commencement  of  the  town  of  Salem,  on  the 
frontier  region  of  the  Black  Hawk  Purchase,  the  first  Quaker  settlement  in 
Iowa.  Five  years  afterward  this  colony  in  the  vicinity  of  Salem  numbered 
nearly  one  thousand  souls,  comprising  many  patriarchs  bleached  by  the 
snows  of  seventy  winters,  with  their  descendants  to  the  third  and  fourth  gen 
erations.  Such  was  the  first  advance  of  the  Anglo-American  population 
west  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  within  the  'District  of  Iowa,'  which,  before 
the  close  of  the  year  1834,  contained  nearly  five  thousand  white  inhabitants. 
Meantime,  for  the  convenience  of  temporary  government,  the  settlements 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  extending  more  than  one  hundred  miles  north  of  the 
Des  Moines  River,  had  been  by  congress  erected  into  the  '  District  of  Iowa,' 
and  attached  to  the  District  of  Wisconsin,  subject  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Michigan  Territory. 

The  District  of  Iowa  remained,  with  the  District  of  Wisconsin,  attached 
to  the  jurisdiction  of  Michigan  Territory,  until  the  latter  had  assumed  an 
independent  state  government  in  1836,  when  the  District  of  Wisconsin 
was  erected  into  a  separate  government,  known  as  the  Wisconsin  Territory, 
exercising  jurisdiction  over  the  District  of  Iowa,  then  comprised  in  two 
large  counties,  designated  as  the  counties  of  Des  Moines  and  Dubuque.  The 
aggregate  population  of  these  counties  in  1836  was  10,531  persons.  It  was 
not  long  before  the  District  of  Iowa  became  noted  throughout  the  west  for 
its  extraordinary  beauty  and  fertility,  and  the  great  advantages  which  it  af 
forded  to  agricultural  enterprize. 

Already  the  pioneer  emigrants  had  overrun  the  first  Black  Hawk  Purchase, 
and  were  advancing  upon  the  Indian  country  west,  of  the  boundary  line. 
Settlements  continued  to  extend,  emigration  augmented  the  population,  and 
land-offices  were  established  at  Dubuque  and  Burlington  for  the  sale  of  such 
lands  as  w^ere  surveyed. 

Meantime,  the  District  of  Iowa,  before  the  close  of  the  year  1838,  had 
been  subdivided  into  sixteen  counties,  with  an  aggregate  population  of  22,860 
souls,  distributed  sparsely  over  the  whole  territory  to  which  the  Indian  title 
had  been  extinguished.  The  same  year,  on  the  4th  of  July,  agreeably  to 
the  provisions  of  an  act  of  congress,  approved  June  12,  1838,  the  District 
of  Iowa  was  erected  into  an  independent  territorial  government,  known  as 
the  'Territory  of  Iowa.'  The  first  'territorial  governor  and  superintendent 
of  Indian  affairs  '  was  Robert  Lucas,  formerly  governor  of  Ohio,  with  James 
Clark  secretary  of  the  territory.  Charles  Mason  was  chief  justice  of  the 
superior  court,  and  judge  of  the  first  judicial  district;  Joseph  Williams  was 
judge  in  the  second  district;  and  Thomas  S.  Wilson  in  the  third.  The  first 
delegate  elected  by  the  people  to  represent  them  in  congress  was  Augustus 
C.  Dodge. 

The  Iowa  Territory,  as  first  organized,  comprised  '  all  that  region  of  coun 
try  north  of  Missouri,  which  lies  west  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  of  a 
line  drawn  due  north  from  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  to  the  northern 
limit  of  the  United  States.' 

The  first  general  assembly  of  the  Iowa  Territory  made  provision  for  the 
permanent  seat  of  government,  On  the  first  of  May,  1839,  the  beautiful 
spot  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  '  City  of  Iowa'  was  selected. 

During  the  year  1839,  emigration  from  New  England,  and  from  New  York 
by  way  of  the  lake  route  from  Buffalo  to  the  ports  on  the  western  shore  of 


504  IOWA- 

Lake  Michigan,  and  from  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois,  began  to  set  strongly 
into  the  Iowa  Territory,  and  numerous  colonies  advanced  to  settle  the  beau 
tiful  and  fertile  lands  on  both  sides  of  the  Des  Moines  River  and  its  numer 
ous  tributaries,  as  well  as  those  upon  the  small  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi 
for  two  hundred  miles  above. 

Population  increased  in  a  remarkable  manner;  aided  by  the  unbounded 
facilities  of  steam  navigation,  both  on  the  great  lakes  and  upon  the  large 
tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  the  emigration  to  the  Iowa  and  Wisconsin  Ter 
ritories  was  unprecedented  in  the  history  of  western  colonization.  The  cen 
sus  of  1840  exhibited  the  entire  population  of  Iowa  Territory  at  43,017  per 
sons,  and  that  of  the  Wisconsin  Territory  at  30,945  persons. 

Such  had  been  the  increase  of  emigration  previous  to  1843,  that  the  legis 
lature  of  Iowa  made  formal  application  for  authority  to  adopt  a  state  consti 
tution.  At  the  following  session  of  congress,  an  act  was  passed  to  '  enable 
the  people  of  the  Iowa  Territory  to  form  a  state  government.'  A.  conven 
tion  assembled  in  September,  and  on  the  7th  of  October,  1844,  adopted  a 
constitution  for  the  proposed  'state  of  Iowa;'  it  being  the  fourth  state  organ 
ized  within  the  limits  of  the  province  of  Louisiana. 

By  the  year  1844,  the  population  of  Iowa  had  increased  to  81,921  persons; 
yet  the  people  were  subjected  to  disappointment  in  the  contemplated  change  of 
government.  The  constitution  adopted  by  the  convention  evinced  the  pro 
gress  of  republican  feeling,  and  the  strong  democratic  tendency  so  prominent 
in  all  the  new  states.  The  constitution  for  Iowa  extended  the  right  of  suf 
frage  to  every  free  white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States  who  had  resided 
Isix  months  in  the  state,  and  one  month  in  the  county,  previous  to  his  appli 
cation  for  the  right  of  voting.  The  judiciary  were  all  to  be  elected  by  the 
people  for  a  term  of  four  years,  and  all  other  officers,  both  civil  and  milita 
ry,  were  to  be  elected  by  the  people  at  stated  periods.  Chartered  monopolies 
were  not  tolerated,  and  no  act  of  incorporation  was  permitted  to  remain  in 
force  more  than  twenty  years,  unless  it  were  designed  for  public  improve 
ments  or  literary  purposes ;  and  the  personal  as  well  as  the  real  estate  of  the 
members  of  all  corporations  was  liable  for  the  debts  of  the  same.  The  leg 
islature  was  prohibited  from  creating  any  debt  in  the  name  of  the  state  ex 
ceeding  one  hundred  thousand  dollars,  unless  it  were  for  defense  in  case  of 
war,  invasion,  or  insurrection ;  and  in  such  case,  the  bill  creating  the  debt 
should,  at  the  same  time,  provide  the  ways  and  means  for  its  redemption. 
Such  were  some  of  the  prominent  features  of  the  first  constitution  adopted 
for  the  state  of  Iowa.  Yet  the  state  was  not  finally  organized  under  this 
constitution,  and  the  people  of  Iowa  remained  under  the  territorial  form  of 
government  until  the  close  of  the  year  1846. 

The  constitution  of  Iowa  having  been  approved  by  congress,  an  act  was 
passed  March  3, 1845,  for  the  admission  of  the  'state  of  Iowa'  into  the  Fed 
eral  Union  simultaneously  with  the  'state  of  Florida,'  upon  the  condition  that 
the  people  of  Iowa,  at  a  subsequent  general  election,  assent  to  the  restricted 
limits  imposed  by  congress,  in  order  to  conform  with  the  general  area  of 
other  western  states ;  but  the  people  of  Iowa  refused  to  ratify  the  restricted 
limits  prescribed  for  the  new  state,  a  majority  of  nearly  two  thousand  in  the 
popular  vote  having  rejected  the  terms  of  admission.  Hence  Iowa  remained 
under  the  territorial  government  until  the  beginning  of  1846,  when  the  peo 
ple,  through  their  legislature,  acquiesced  in  the  prescribed  limits,  and  con 
gress  authorized  the  formation  of  another  constitution,  preparatory  to  the 
admission  of  Iowa  into  the  Union. 


IOWA.  505 

The  people  of  Iowa,  in  1846,  assented  to  the  restriction  of  limits,  and  the 
formation  of  a  territorial  government  over  the  remaining  waste  territory  lying 
north  and  west  of  the  limits  prescribed  by  congress.  Petitions,  with  numer 
ous  signatures,  demanded  the  proposed  restriction  by  the  organization  of  a 
separate  territory,  to  be  designated  and  known  as  the  'Dacotah  Territory,' 
comprising  the  Indian  territory  beyond  the  organized  settlements  of  Iowa. 
Congress  accordingly  authorized  a  second  convention  for  the  adoption  of 
another  state  constitution,  and  this  convention  assembled  in  May,  1846,  and 
adopted  another  constitution,  which  was  submitted  to  congress  in  June  fol  - 
lowing.  In  August,  1846,  the  state  of  Iowa  was  formally  admitted  into  the 
Union,  and  the  first  state  election  was,  by  the  proclamation  of  Gov.  Clarke, 
to  be  held  on  the  26th  day  of  October  following.  In  the  ensuing  December, 
the  first  state  legislature  met  at  Iowa  City." 

Iowa  is  bounded  N.  by  Minnesota  and  Dacotah  Territory,  W.  by  Missouri 
River,  S.  by  the  state  of  Missouri,  and  E.  by  Mississippi  River.  It  is  situ 
ated  between  40°  30'  and  43°  30'  N.  Lat.,  and  between  90°  20'  and  96°  50' 
W.  Long.  Its  greatest  width,  from  E.  to  W.,  is  307  miles,  and  186  from  &. 
to  S.;  included  within  its  limits  is  an  area  of  50,914  square  miles. 

The  face  of  Iowa  is  moderately  uneven,  without  any  mountains  or  very 
high  hills.  There  is  a  tract  of  elevated  table  land,  which  extends  through 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  state,  dividing  the  waters  which  fall  into  the  Mis 
sissippi  from  those  falling  into  the  Missouri.  The  margins  of  the  rivers  and 
creeks,  extending  back  from  one  to  ten  miles,  are  usually  covered  with  tim 
ber,  while  beyond  this  the  country  is  an  open  prairie  without  trees.  The 
prairies  generally  have  a  rolling  surface,  not  unlike  the  swelling  of  the  ocean, 
and  comprise  more  than  two  thirds  of  the  territory  of  the  state:  the  tim 
bered  lands  only  one  tenth.  The  soil,  both  on  the  prairie  and  bottom  lands, 
is  generally  excellent  having  a  deep  black  mold  intermingled  with  a  sandy 
loam,  sometimes  of  red  clay  and  gravel.  It  is  watered  by  streams  of  the 
clearest  water,  and  its  inland  scenery  is  very  beautiful.  It  is  studded  in  parts 
with  numerous  little  lakes  of  clear  water,  with  gravelly  shores  and  bottoms. 

In  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  state  are  very  extensive  lead  mines,  being 
continuations  of  those  of  Illinois  and  Wisconsin.  Vast  coal  beds  exist,  extend 
ing,  it  is  stated,  upward  of  two  hundred  miles,  in  the  direction  of  the  valley 
of  the  Des  Moines  River  alone,  which  centrally  intersects  the  state.  The 
entire  area  of  the  coal  fields  in  this  state,  is  estimated  to  be  not  less  than 
35,000  square  miles,  nearly  two  thirds  of  the  entire  state.  The  beds  of  coal 
are  estimated  by  geologists  to  be  of  the  average  thickness  of  100  feet.  Iron 
ore,  zinc  and  copper  are  also  found.  Iowa  is  also  rich  in  agricultural  re 
sources,  its  fertile  soil  producing  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  grains  raised  in  north 
ern  climates.  "As  a  general  rule,  the  average  quantity  of  snow  and  rain  in 
Iowa  is  much  less  than  in  New  York  and  New  England.  There  are  much 
fewer  clouds.  The  cold  weather  in  winter  is  about  the  same  as  in  similar 
latitudes  in  the  east;  winter  commences  about  the  same  time,  but  the  spring 
generally  opens  much  earlier.  The  intense  cold  weather  is  comparatively 
short.  For  a  period  of  years  the  spring  will  average  from  two  to  four  weeks 
earlier  than  in  central  New  York.  This  difference  is  due  to  several  causes. 

In  the  east  the  proximity  of  large  bodies  of  water  gives  rise  to  an  im 
mense  number  of  very  dense  clouds,  that  prevent  the  spring  sun  from  hav 
ing  the  same  effect  as  is  experienced  in  the  west.  The  altitude  of  the  coun 
try,  and  the  warm  quick  nature  of  the  Iowa  soil,  are  circumstances  going  far 
toward  accounting  for  this  difference.  The  heat  of  summer  is  much  greater 


506 


IOWA. 


than  in  the  same  latitude  in  New  York  and  New  England,  though  a  person 
may  work  in  the  open  sun  in  Iowa  when  the  thermometer  is  100  degrees 
above  zero  more  comfortably  than  he  can  when  it  is  at  90  degrees  in  New 
York.  An  atmosphere  saturated  with  water  is  more  sultry  and  disagreeable 
with  the  thermometer  at  90,  than  a  dry  atmosphere  with  the  thermometer  at 
100." 

Iowa  is  blessed  with  abundance  of  water  power,  and  the  noblest  of  rivers ; 
the  Mississippi  is  on  the  east,  the  Missouri  on  the  west,  while  numerous  streams 
penetrate  it,  the  finest  of  which  is  the  Des  Moines,  the  great  central  artery 
of  the  state,  which  enters  it  from  the  north  and  flows  south-east  through  it 
for  400  miles:  it  is  a  beautiful  river,  with  a  rocky  bottom  and  high  banks, 
which  the  state  is  making  navigable,  for  small  steamers,  to  Fort  Des  Moines, 
200  miles  from  its  mouth. 

By  the  census  of  1856,  the  number  of  paupers  was  only  132  out  of  a  pop 
ulation  of  more  than  half  a  million.  Population,  in  1836,  10,531;  in  1840 
42,017;  in  1850,  192,214;  in  1856,  509,000;  in  I860,  674;948. 


Eastern  view  of  Dubuque,  from  Dunleith,  111 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  Dulmque,  as  seen  from  the  terminus  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi.  On  the  left  is  the  terminus  of  the  Pacific  and  Dubuque  Railroad. 
On  the  right  the  Shot  Tower.  Back  of  the  principal  part  of  the  city  are  the  bluffs,  rising  to  a  bight  of 
about  200  feet. 

DUBUQUE,  the  largest  city,  and  the  first  settled  place  in  the  state,  is  on  the 
right  or  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  1,638  miles  above  New  Orleans, 
426  above  St.  Louis,  and  306  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  The  city 
proper  extends  two  miles  on  a  table  area,  or  terrace,  immediately  back  of 
which  rise  a  succession  of  precipitous  bluffs,  about  200- feet  high.  A  small 
marshy  island  is  in  front  of  the  city,  which  is  being  improved  for  business 
purposes.  The  beautiful  plateau  on  which  the  city  was  originally  laid  out, 
being  too  limited  for  its  growth,  streets  have  been  extended  up  and  over  the 
bluffs,  on  which  many  houses  have  been  erected  of  a  superior  order,  among 
which  are  numerous  elegant  residences.  The  Dubuque  Female  College  is 


IOWA.  507 

designed  to  accommodate  500  scholars.  The  Alexander  College,  chartered 
in  1853,  is  located  here,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Synod  of  Iowa.  Sev 
eral  important  railroads  terminate  at  this  place,  which  is  the  head-quarters 
and  principal  starting  place  for  steamboats  on  the  northern  Mississippi. 
Nearly  one  third  of  the  inhabitants  speak  the  German  language.  Popula 
tion  1860,  13,021. 

Mr.  J.  L.  Langworthy,  a  native  of  Vermont,  is  believed  to  have  been  the 
first  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  who  erected  a  dwelling,  and  smelted  the  first 
lead  westward  of  the  Mississippi.  He  first  came  here  in  1827.  The  first 
act  resembling  civil  legislation,  within  the  limits  of  Iowa,  was  done  in  Du- 
buque.  Mr.  Langworthy,  with  four  others,  H.  P.  Lander,  James  McPhee- 
ters,  and  Samuel  H.  Scales,  having  obtained  permission  to  dig  for  mineral, 
entered  into  an  agreement,  dated  July  17.  1830,  by  which  each  man  should 
hold  200  yards  square  of  ground,  by  working  on  said  ground  one  day  in  six,- 
and  that  a  person  chosen  by  a  majority  of  the  miners  present,  should  hold 
the  agreement,  "and  grant  letters  of  arbitration. '  It  appears,  from  an  in 
dorsement  on  the  paper,  that  Dr.  Jarrote  held  the  articles,  and  was  the  first 
person  chosen  by  the  people  in  the  territory  to  be  clothed  with  judicial 
powers.  In  Oct.,  1833,  Mr.  Langworthy  and  his  brothers,  with  a  few  neigh 
bors,  erected  the  first  school-house  built  in  Iowa.  It  stood  but  a  few  rods 
from  the  Female  College.  The  first  brick  building  erected  in  Dubuque  was 
in  the  summer  of  1837,  by  Le  Roy  Jackson,  from  Kentucky.  This  house 
is  now  standing  on  the  corner  of  Iowa  and  Eleventh-streets,  and  is  owned 
and  occupied  by  William  Rebman,  a  native  of  Pennsylvania,  who  came  to 
Dubuque  in  1836,  when  a  lad  of  14  years,  and  acted  as  hodman  to  the  ma 
sons  who  erected  the  building.  When  Mr.  R.  came  to  this  place,  there  were 
some  30  or  40  dwellings,  many  of  them  log  cabins.  The  first  religious  ser 
vices  were  held  in  a  log  structure,  used  by  various  denominations.  The  first 
school  was  kept  by  Rev.  Nicholas  S.  Bastion,  a  Methodist  preacher;  the 
school  house  stood  on  the  public  square,  near  the  Centennial  Methodist 
Church.  It  is  said  that  the  first  lead  discovered  here  was  by  Peosta,  an  In 
dian  chieftain  or  the  wife  of  one,  who  presented  it  to  Capt.  Dubuque. 

The  site  of  Dubuque  was  anciently  known  as  the  cornfields  and  place  of 
mounds  of  the  "Little  Fox  Village."  It  was  named,  in  1834,  after  Julian 
Dubuque,  an  Indian  trader,  who  settled  here  in  1788,  and  is  generally  con 
sidered  as  the  first  white  settler  in  Iowa.  He  is  said  to  have  been  of  French 
and  Spanish  parentage.  He  married  into  the  Indian  tribe,  adopted  their 
habits  and  customs,  and  became  a  great  chief  among  them.  He  was  of  small 
stature,  addicted  to  the  vices  incident  upon  the  commingling  of  Spanish  and 
Indian  races  in  America,  and  a  great  medicine  man.  "He  would  take  live 
snakes  of  the  most  venomous  kind  into  his  arms  and  bosom,  and  was  conse 
quently  regarded  by  the  Indians  with  superstitious  veneration.  He  died  a 
victim  to  his  vices,  and  was  buried  on  a  high  bluff  that  overlooks  the  river, 
near  the  Indian  village  at  the  mouth  of  Catfish  Creek."  When  his  grave 
was  visited  by  L.  H.  Langworthy,  Esq.,  in  1830,  a  stone  house,  surmounted 
by  a  cedar  cross,  with  a  leaden  door,  stood  over  the  spot.  The  remains  of 
two  Indian  chiefs  were  also  deposited  within.  The  cross  had  a  French  in 
scription,  of  which  the  following  is  a  translation : 

"Julien  Dubuque,  miner,  of  the  mines  of  Spain.  Died  this  24th  day  of  March,  1810, 
aged  45  years  6  mo." 

The  Indians,  being  instructed  by  Dubuque,  worked  the  mines  of  lead  here 
as  early  as  1800.  About  the  year  1830,  an  Indian  war,  between  the  Sioux 


508  IOWA. 

and  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  caused  the  latter  to  forsake  their  village  here. 
Upon  this  the  whites  entered  upon  these  lands,  and  several  made  their  for 
tunes  in  a  single  day,  by  striking  upon  a  large  lode.  They  were,  however, 
soon  ordered  to  recross  the  river  by  Zachary  Taylor,  commanding  the  United 
States  forces  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  as  the  territory  had  not  yet  been  purchased 
of  the  Indians.  After  the  Black  Hawk  purchase,  the  west  side  of  the  Mis 
sissippi  was  opened  for  settlement.  By  1834,  several  stores  were  erected ; 
the  mines  increased  in  richness,  and  emigration  rapidly  advanced.  For  a 
time  "  Lynch  Law  "  was  the  only  one  recognized.  The  first  execution  for 
murder  was  that  of  a  man  who  shot  his  partner.  "  Upon  this  event  a  court 
was  organized,  jury  impanneled,  trial  had,  criminal  found  guilty,  and  after  a 
short  time  being  allowed  the  prisoner  to  prepare  for  death,  he  was  executed. 
The  gallows  was  erected  upon  the  south-west  corner  of  White  and  Seventh- 
streets,  upon  a  mound,  which  was  only  removed  for  the  large  block  that  now 
fills  its  place.  The  population,  at  that  time,  amounted  to  over  1,000.  nearly 
the  whole  of  which  were  witnesses  to  the  final  act  of  that  dreadful  tragedy." 

The  first  newspaper  issued  here  was  by  John  King,  Esq.,  under  the  fol 
lowing  title: 

"  DUBUQTJE  VISITOR,  Truth  our  Guide — the  public  good  our  aim.  Dubuque 
Lead  Mines,  Wisconsin  Territory,  May  16,  1836." 

In  1838,  some  attention  was  paid  to  agricultural  pursuits.  The  soil  prov 
ing  good,  the  prosperity  of  the  place  greatly  increased.  The  exportations  of 
lead  that  year  exceeded  6,000,000  Ibs.  In  1846,  the  lands  adjoining  Du- 
buque  were  brought  into  market,  and  the  next  year  Dubuque  was  reincor- 
porated  under  its  present  charter.  The  population  at  that  time  was  less  than 
3,000. 

"  Below  the  'Little  Fox  village,'  is  the  bluff  where  the  Sioux  made  their  last  and 
final  stand  against  the  Sacs  and  Foxes.  It  stands  close  upon  the  shore  of  the  Mis 
sissippi,  with  its  perpendicular  walls  about  two  hundred  feet  in  hight,  and  sloping 
back  toward  a  low  prairie,  by  which  it  is  surrounded  and  terminates  with  an  ab 
rupt  descent  to  this  prairie.  Here  and  there,  scattered  around  it,  are  castellated 
rocks,  which  make  it  one  of  nature's  fortifications.  The  Sioux  were  encamped  on 
the  summit  of  this  bluff.  In  the  night  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  commenced  ascending, 
and  when  near  their  enemy,  by  a  fierce  encounter,  they  secured  the  outposts,  and 
in  a  very  short  time  had  so  reduced  the  number  of  the  Sioux,  that  thosje  remaining, 
rather  than  have  their  scalps  hang  at  their  enemies'  girdles,  threw  themselves 
headlong  from  the  precipice  and  were  dashed  to  pieces.  At  the  present  time,  a 
few  of  the  bones  of  those  devoted  warriors  may  be  found  in  this  their  last  resting 
place;  and  of  late  years,  when  the  Indians  visit  this  spot,  they  cast  pebbles  and 
twigs  from  the  summit  upon  the  remains  of  those  below." 

To  the  foregoing  outline  we  annex  these  details  from  the  Lectures  of  Lu 
cius  H.  Langworthy,  Esq.,  upon  the  History  of  Dubuque: 

In  1827,  the  speaker  came  to  the  mines,  in  company  with  a  brother  and  two 
sisters,  together  with  Mr.  Meeker,  on  his  return  from  Cincinnati,  Maj.  Hough, 
Capt.  Donney  and  lady,  and  five  or  six  others. 

We  embarked  at  Quincy,  Illinois,  in  a  pirogue,  and  were  thirty  days  on  the  voy 
age.  A  pirogue  is  a  kind  of  intermediate  craft,  between  a  canoe  and  a  keel  boat. 
The  name  is  French,  and  signifies  the  kind  of  boats  used  by  the  early  voyageura 
to  transport  their  furs  and  effects  over  the  shoal  waters  and  rapid  streams  of  the  west 
ern  wilderness.  I  mention  the  time  occupied  in  our  journey  hither,  in  order  to  show 
some  of  the  difficulties  of  settling  this  new  country  at  that  early  period.  Think 
of  a  boat's  crew,  with  several  ladies  on  board,  all  unaccustomed  to  the  river,  being 
compelled  to  work  a  boat  up  with  poles  and  oars,  against  the  swollen  current  of 
this  mighty  stream,  in  the  hot  weather  of  June,  sleeping  on  sand  bars,  or  anchored 


IOWA.  609 

out  in  the  river  at  night,  to  avoid  the  musquitoes,  or  lurking  Indians,  living  upon 
salt  pork  and  dry  biscuit,  coffee  without  cream  or  sugar,  and  withal  making  only 
about  eight  miles  average  per  day.  But  this  was  then  the  land  of  promise,  as  Cal 
ifornia  has  since  been.  In  July  of  that  year,  the  Winnebago  war  commenced. 
Much  alarm  was  spread  over  the  country,  and  the  people  erected  forts  and  block 
houses  for  defense,  abandoning  all  other  employments  for  the  time.  Col.  Henry 
Dodge  led  a  company  of  miners  against  the  Indians,  at  their  town  on  Rock  River. 
The  village,  however,  was  found  deserted,  and  they  returned  after  taking  one  lad 
prisoner. 

We  crossed  over  the  Mississippi  at  this  time,  swimming  our  horses  by  the  side 
of  a  canoe.  It  was  the  first  flow,  or  the  first  tide  of  civilization  on  this  western 
shore.  There  was  not  a  white  settler  north  of  the  Des  Moines,  and  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  to  Astoria,  on  the  Columbia  River,  with  the  exception  of  Indian  traders. 
The  Indians  had  all  along  guarded  this  mining  district  with  scrupulous  care.  They 
would  not  allow  the  white  people  to  visit  the  place,  even  to  look  at  the  old  grass- 
grown  diggings  of  Dubuque,  which  were  known  to  exist  here,  much  less  would 
they  permit  mining  to  be  done,  or  settlements  to  be  made. 

The  country  had  just  been  abandoned  by  the  red  men,  their  moccasin  tracks 
were  yet  fresh  in  the  prairie  trails  along  which  the  retiring  race  had  fled  on  their 
mysterious  mission  westward,  and  the  decaying  embers  were  yet  cooling  on  their 
deserted  hearths  within  their  now  lonely  and  silent  wigwams.  Where  Dubuque 
now  stands,  cornfields  stretched  along  the  bluffs,  up  the  ravines  and  the  Coule  val 
ley,  and  a  thousand  acres  of  level  land  skirting  the  shore,  was  covered  with  tall 
grass,  as  a  field  of  waving  grain.  But  the  stalks  of  the  corn  were  of  the  last  year's 
growth,  the  ears  had  been  plucked,  and  they  were  withered  and  blighted  left 
standing  alone  mournful  representatives  of  the  vanished  race.  A  large  village  was 
then  standing  at  the  mouth  of  Catfish  Creek,  silent,  solitary,  deserted — nothing  re 
mained  to  greet  us,  but  the  mystic  shadows  of  the  past  About  seventy  buildings, 
constructed  with  poles  and  the  bark  of  trees,  remained  to  tell  of  those  who  had  so 
recently  inhabited  them.  Their  council  house,  though  rude,  was  ample  in  its  di 
mensions,  and  contained  a  great  number  of  furnaces,  in  which  kettles  had  been 
placed  to  prepare  the  feasts  of  peace  or  war.  But  their  council  fires  had  gone  out. 
On  the  inner  surface  of  the  bark  there  were  paintings  done  with  considerable 
artistic  skill,  representing  the  buffalo,  elk,  bear,  panther,  and  other  animals  of  the 
chase ;  also  their  wild  sports  on  the  prairie,  and  even  their  feats  in  wars,  where 
chief  meets  chief  and  warriors  mix  in  bloody  fray.  Thus  was  retained  a  rude 
record  of  their  national  history.  It  was  burned  down  in  the  summer  of  1830,  by 
some  visitors  in  a  spirit  of  vandalism,  much  to  the  regret  of  the  new  settlers. 

When  the  Indians  mined,  which  was  on  special  occasions,  there  were  often  fifty 
or  a  hundred  boys  and  squaws  at  work  on  one  vein.  They  would  dig  down  a 
square  hole,  covering  the  entire  width  of  the  mine,  leaving  one  side  not  perpendic 
ular,  but  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees,  then  with  deer  skin  sacks  attached  to 
a  bark  rope  they  would  haul  out  along  the  inclining  side  of  the  shaft  the  rock  and 
ore.  Their  mode  of  smelting  was  by  digging  into  a  bank  slightly,  then  put  up  flat 
rocks  in  a  funnel  shape,  and  place  the  ore  within,  mixed  with  wood ;  this  all  burnt 
together,  and  the  lead  would  trickle  down  into  a  small  excavation  in  the  earth,  of 
any  shape  they  desired,  and  slowly  cool  and  become  fit  for  exportation. 

The  lead  manufactured  here  in  early  times,  by  Dubuque  and  the  natives,  found 
its  way  to  St.  Louis,  Chicago,  Mackinaw,  and  other  trading  ports,  and  some  even 
into  the  Indian  rifle  in  the  war  of  1812,  in  the  woods  of  Indiana  and  Michigan. 
The  mode  of  smelting  adopted  at  first,  by  the  white  people,  was  by  building  a  fur 
nace  somewhat  like  two  large  chimney  places,  set  in  a  bank  of  earth,  leaving  an 
aperture  in  the  lower  side,  for  a  circulation  of  air.  In  these,  large  logs  of  wood 
were  placed  like  back-logs,  back-sticks  and  fore-sticks  all  fitting  together,  then  the 
mineral  was  placed  on  the  logs,  covered  with  finer  wood,  and  the  whole  set  on  fire. 
Thus,  in  twenty-four  hours,  the  lead  would  be  extracted  and  run  into  cast-iron 
molds.  About  fifty  per  cent,  of  lead  was  obtained  in  this  way,  leaving  scoriae  and 
a  waste  of  small  pieces  of  ore  to  be  run  over  in  another  furnace  differently  con 
structed.  In  this  last  process,  about  fifteen  per  cent,  was  added  to  the  first  pro 
duct  Now,  by  the  improved  mode,  of  blast  furnaces,  about  eighty-five  per  cent,  in 


510 


IOWA. 


obtained,  showing  that  the  ore  is  nearly  pure,  except  only  the  combination  of  sul 
phur  with  it,  which  is  the  inflammable  material,  and  assists  in  the  process  of  sepa 
ration. 

As  I  have  said,  the  speaker  and  an  elder  brother,  in  June  of  1827,  crossed  the 
Mississippi  in  a  canoe,  swimming  their  horses  by  its  side,  landed  for  the  first  time 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  stream,  and  stood  upon  the  soil  of  this  unknown  land. 
Soon  after  this,  a  number  of  miners  crossed  over  the  river,  and  possessed  them 
selves  of  these  lands,  thus  left  vacant;  their  mining  operations  proved  eminently 
successful. 

About  the  fourth  of  July,  Zachary  Taylor,  then  commanding  at  Prairie  du  Chien, 
called  upon  the  miners,  in  a  formal  and  public  manner,  forbade  their  settlement, 
and  ordered  them  to  recross  the  river.  This  land  was  not  yet  purchased  of  the 
Indians,  and,  of  course,  came  under  the  control  of  the  war  department.  Captain 
Taylor,  as  he  was  then  called,  told  the  miners  that  it  was  his  duty  as  a  government 
officer,  to  protect  the  lands;  that  such  were  the  treaty  stipulations,  and  that  they 
must  be  off  in  one  week.  They  declined  doing  this,  telling  the  captain  that  he 
must  surrender  this  time.  They  urged  that  they  had  occupied  a  vacant  country, 
had  struck  some  valuable  lodes,  that  the  land  would  soon  be  purchased,  and  that 
they  intended  to  maintain  possession;  to  which  Zachary  Taylor  replied,  "  We  shall 
see  to  that,  my  boys." 

Accordingly  a  detachment  of  United  States  troops  was  dispatched,  with  orders 
to  make  the  miners  at  Dubuque  walk  Spanish.  Anticipating  their  arrival,  they  had 
taken  themselves  off,  for  at  that  early  day  they  believed  that  "  rough  "  would  be 
"  ready  "  at  the  appointed  time.  The  miners  were  anxiously  peering  from  the  high 
bluffs  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  as  the  steamer  came  in  sight  bringing  the  sol 
diers,  who  were  landed  on  the  west  shore.  Three  of  the  men,  who  had  lingered 
too  long,  were  taken  prisoners.  They  were,  however,  soon  released,  or  rather  took 
themselves  off.  It  is  said  that  one  of  them,  a  large,  fat  man,  by  the  name  of  Lem 
ons,  made  his  escape  from  the  soldiers  while  at  Galena,  and  taking  the  course  of 
the  high  prairie  ridge  leading  northerly,  exhibited  such  astonishing  speed,  that  the 
race  has  long  been  celebrated  among  the  miners,  as  the  greatest  feat  ever  performed 
in  the  diggings. 

The  military  force  was  stationed  permanently  at  Dubuque,  «ind  the  Indians,  ven 
turing  back  to  the  place,  sure  of  safety  and  protection  against  their  inveterate  ene 
my,  the  Sioux,  and  other  intruders,  were  encouraged  to  mine  upon  the  lodes  and 
prospects  which  the  white  people  had  discovered.  From  one  mine  alone  the  In 
dians  obtained  more  than  a  million  pounds  of  ore,  in  which  they  were  assisted  by 
the  traders  and  settlers  along  the  river,  with  provisions,  implements,  and  teams. 
While  the  discoverers,  those  who  had  opened  these  mines  again,  after  they  were 
abandoned  by  them  and  the  Spanish  miners  more  than  twenty  years,  were  com 
pelled  to  look  across  the  water  and  see  the  fruits  of  their  industry  and  enterprise 
consumed  by  the  Indians.  We  lost,  in  this  manner,  more  than  twenty  thousand 
dollars  worth  of  mineral,  which  was  taken  from  one  lode  by  them. 

In  September,  1832,  a  treaty  was  held  at  Rock  Island,  by  General  Scott  and 
others,  on  the  part  of  the  government,  and  the  Black  Hawk  purchase  was  agreed 
to.  It  included  all  the  country  bordering  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
comprising  the  eastern  portion  of  our  state.  About  this  time,  those  who  felt  an 
interest  in  the  mines  of  Dubuque,  returned  to  take  possession  of  their  former  dis 
coveries. 

Many  fine  lodes  and  prospects  were  discovered,  and  considerable  lead  manufac 
tured  lip  to1  about  January  25,  1833.  I  could  here  name  many  others  who  settled 
during  this  fall :  Thomas  McCraney,  Whitesides,  Camps,  Kurd,  Riley,  Thoinaa 
Kelly,  etc.  In  fact  there  were  more  than  two  hundred  allured  here  by  the  flatter 
ing  prospects  of  the  country  during  this  fall.  But,  in  January,  the  troops  were 
aicuin  sent  down  from  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  removed  the  settlers  the  second  time, 
merely  because  the  treaty  by  which  the  land  was  acquired  had  not  been  ratified 
bv  the  United  States  senate,  a  formal  act  that  every  one  knew  would  take  place  at 
the  earliest  opportunity.  This  was  a  foolish  policy  on  the  part  of  the  government, 
and  operated  peculiarly  hard  upon  the  new  settlers,  who  were  thus  obliged  to  leave 
their  cabins  in  the  cold  winter  of  1832-3,  and  their  business  also  until  spring. 


IOWA  511 

In  June,  1833,  Mr.  John  P.  Sheldon,  arrived  with  a  commission  from  the  depart 
ment  at  Washington,  as  superintendent  -of  the  mines,  the  military  force  having 
b'ien  previously  withdrawn,  and  the  treaty  confirmed.  He  proceeded  to  grant 
written  permits  to  miners,  and  licenses  to  smelters.  These  permits  entitled  the 
holder  to  the  privilege  of  staking  off  two  hundred  yards  square  of  land  wherever 
he  chose,  if  not  occupied  by  others,  and  have  peaceful  possession,  by  delivering  his 
mineral  to  a  licensed  smelter,  while  the  smelter  was  required  to  give  a  bond  to  the 
agent,  conditioned  to  pay,  for  the  use  of  the  government,  a  fixed  per  centa^e  of  all 
the  lead  he  manufactured.  Mr.  Sheldon  continued  to  act  in  this  capacity  only 
about  one  year,  for  he  could  not  be  the  instrument  of  enforcing  this  unjust  and  un 
wise  policy.  He  saw  that  these  men,  like  all  other  pioneers,  who,  by  their 
enterprise  were  opening  up  a  new  country,  and  fitting  it  for  the  homes  of  those 
who  follow  their  footsteps,  should  be  left,  by  a  wise  and  judicious  system,  to  the 
enjoyment  of  their  hard  earnings.  The  hidden  wealth  of  the  earth,  its  pine  for 
ests  and  surface  productions,  should  alike  be  offered  freely  to  all  those  who  pene 
trate  the  wilderness,  and  thus  lay  the  foundation  of  future  societies  and  states. 

It  has  been  the  policy  of  our  government,  at  various  times,  to  exact  rent  for  all 
mineral,  or  pine  lumber,  taken  from  the  public  lands ;  which  policy  is  wrong  and 
should  be  forever  abandoned ;  for  the  early  settlers  have  privations  and  hardships 
rnough,  without  encountering  the  opposition  of  their  own  government,  especially 
these  miners,  many  of  whom  had  labored  for  years  on  the  frontiers,  out  off  from 
ihe  enjoyments  of  home  and  all  the  endearments  of  domestic  life.  Your  speaker 
vas,  himself,  one  of  these,  being  thrown  in  early  life  upon  the  crest  of  the  wave 
..if  western  emigration,  often  beyond  the  furthest  bounds  of  civilization,  and  not 
unfrequently  amid  the  tragical  scenes  of  border  strife.  Twenty-three  years  he  la 
bored,  mostly  in  the  mines,  in  different  capacities,  arid  during  about  half  that  pe 
riod  he  has  toiled  in  the  deep,  narrow  caves  and  crevices,  in  the  cold,  damp  ground, 
working  upon  his  knees,  sometimes  in  the  water,  and  living  like  many  other  miners 
in  "Bachelor's  Hall,"  cooking  his  own  food,  and  feeling  secluded  from  society  and 
far  from  the  circle  and  associations  of  youthful  friendship.  Under  such  privations, 
he  felt  the  demand  of  a  heavy  tax,  by  the  government,  to  be  oppressive  indeed,  and 
he  would  be  wanting  in  consistency  and  spirit,  if  he  had  not,  on  all  proper  occa 
sions,  protested  against  a  system  that  seems  much  more  regal  than  republican,  and 
which  degrades  the  western  pioneer  to  the  condition  of  a  tenant  at  will  of  the  gen 
eral  government. 

In  1833—4,  the  town  of  Dubuque  continued  to  improve.  It  now  first  received  its 
name  by  a  public  meeting  held  for  that  purpose,  and  began  to  assume  the  appear 
ance  of  a  prosperous  business  place. 

At  this  time  there  were  but  very  few  men  in  the  whole  country  who  did  not  in 
dulge  in  drinking  and  gambling.  "Poker"  and  "brag"  were  games  of  common 
fastime,  while  the  betting  often  run  up  to  hundreds  of  dollars  in  a  single  sitting. 
t  pervaded  all  classes;  the  merchants  and  other  passengers,  to  and  from  St.  Louis, 
while  on  the  steamboats  occupied  their  time  chiefly  in  this  way,  and  it  was  consid 
ered  no  disgrace  to  gamble.  Balls  and  parties  were  also  common,  and  it  was  not 

dance  at  the  bar,  if  he 
attention  to  himself. 

holiday,  and  vice  and  immorality  were  prevalent  in 
every  form.  Yet  amidst  all  this  there  were  occasional  gleams  of  moral  sunshine 
breaking  through  the  clouds  of  dissipation,  and  a  brighter  future  lay  before  us. 
Upon  the  establishing  of  courts  here,  first  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Michigan, 
then  under  that  of  Wisconsin  Territory,  matters  assumed  a  more  peaceful  and  quiet 
aspect. 

But  there  were  even  then  occasions  of  turbulence  and  bloodshed,  in  quarrels 
about  lands  and  claims.  Mr.  Woodbury  Massey  lost  his  life  in  one  of  these  diffi 
culties.  There  were  no  courts  of  competent  jurisdiction  to  try  cases  of  crime,  or 
rights  to  property.  A  long  time  intervened  between  the  withdrawal  of  the  gov 
ernment  protection  and  the  establishment  of  civil  laws  by  local  authority. 

No  survey  of  the  public  lands  had  yet  been  made,  and  in  the  transition  from  the 
old  to  the  new  state  of  things,  misunderstandings  naturally  arose.  Under  the  gov 
ernment  rules  and  regulations  for  the  control  of  the  mines,  it  was  necessary  to 


512  IOWA. 

work  and  have  mining  tools  almost  continually  on  the  land  claimed,  in  order  to  se 
cure  possession;  under  the  new  order  of  things  there  were  no  uniform  customs  pre 
vailing,  regarding  possession  of  property;  each  man  formed  his  own  standard  and 
was  governed  by  his  own  opinions.  It  was  not  surprising,  then,  that  difficulties 
should  arise.  He  who  has  passed  through  all  the  scenes  and  trials  incident  to  the 
settlement  of  a  new  country,  will  not  readily  seek  another  distant  frontier  as  a 
home. 

Woodbury  Massey  was  the  eldest  of  several  brothers  and  a  sister,  all  left  orphans 
in  early  life.  Himself  and  family  were  members  and  the  chief  founders  of  the 
first  Methodist  Church  erected  in  this  city;  a  man  of  fine  education,  polite  and 
amiable  in  his  disposition,  one  of  our  first  merchants,  and  possessing  a  large  share 
of  popular  favor.  He  was  enterprising  in  business,  and  upright  in  all  his  dealings. 
Had  he  lived,  he  would  no  doubt  have  proved  a  main  pillar  and  support  in  our 
young  community.  But  in  an  evil  hour  he  became  the  purchaser  of  a  lot  or  lode, 
called  the  Irish  lot,  near  where  Mr.  McKenzie  now  lives. 

It  appeared  that  a  Mr.  Smith,  father  and  son,  had  some  claim  on  this  lot  or  lode. 
They  were  the  exact  opposite  to  Mr.  Massey,  in  character  and  disposition.  A  suit 
before  a  magistrate  grew  out  of  this  claim,  and  the  jury  decided  the  property  to 
belong  to  Mr.  Massey.  It  being  a  case  of  forcible  entry  and  detainer,  the  sheriff, 
as  was  his  duty,  went  with  the  latter  to  put  him  again  in  possession  of  the  pre 
mises. 

When  they  arrived  upon  the  ground,  the  two  Smiths,  being  secreted  among  the 
diggings,  rose  up  suddenly,  and  firing  their  guns  in  quick  succession,  Mr.  Massey 
was  shot  through  the  heart.  His  family,  living  near  by,  saw  him  fall,  thus  early 
cut  down  in  the  prime  of  his  life  and  usefulness,  a  victim  to  the  unsettled  state  of 
the  times,  and  the  ungoverned  passions  of  turbulent  men.  The  perpetrators  of 
this  deed  were  arrested  and  held  in  confinement  until  the  session  of  the  circuit 
court,  at  Mineral  Point,  Judge  Irving  presiding.  Upon  the  trial,  the  counsel  for 
the  defense  objected  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  court,  which  was  sustained  by  the 
judge,  and  accordingly  the  prisoners  were  discharged  and  let  loose  upon  society. 
They,  however,  left  this  part  of  the  country  for  a  time. 

One  of  the  younger  brothers  of  Mr.  Massey,  highly  exasperated  by  this  transac 
tion,  that  no  trial  could  be  obtained  for  such  offenders,  had  determined,  it  seems, 
that  should  the  elder  Smith  ever  come  in  his  way,  he  would  take  the  punishment 
for  the  murder  of  his  brother  into  his  own  hands.  One  day,  while  sitting  in  his 
shop  at  Galena,  he  chanced  to  see  Smith  walking  the  public  streets  of  the  place, 
when,  instantly  snatching  a  pistol  and  hastening  in  the  direction,  he  fired  upon 
him  with  fatal  aim.  Thus  Smith  paid  the  forfeit  of  his  life  by  intruding  again 
among  the  friends  of  the  murdered  man,  and  in  the  community  which  had  wit 
nessed  the  scenes  of  his  violence. 

For  this  act  of  the  younger  brother,  there  seems  to  have  been  the  broadest  char 
ity  manifested.  He  was  never  tried,  or  even  arrested,  and  still  lives  in  the  coun 
try,  a  quiet  man,  and  greatly  respected  by  all  who  know  him. 

The  death  of  the  father,  of  course,  soon  brought  the  younger  Smith  to  the  mines. 
It  was  understood  privately  that  he  determined  to  shoot  one  or  the  other  of  the 
surviving  brothers  at  the  very  first  opportunity.  He  was  known  to  be  an  excellent 
shot  with  a  pistol,  of  imperious  disposition  and  rash  temper.  These  rumors  finally 
reached  the  ears  of  the  fair  haired,  blue  eyed  sister,  who  was  thus  made  to  believe 
that  he  would  carry  his  threats  into  execution.  She  was  just  verging  into  woman 
hood,  with  fresh  susceptibilities,  and  all  of  her  deep  affections  awakened  by  the 
surrounding  difficulties  of  the  family.  One  day,  without  consulting  others,  she  de 
termined,  by  a  wild  and  daring  adventure,  to  cut  off  all  chances  of  danger  in  that 
direction.  Disguising  herself  for  the  occasion,  and  taking  a  lad  along  to  point  out 
the  person  she  sought,  having  never  seen  him  herself,  she  went  into  the  street 
Passing  a  store  by  the  way  side,  the  boy  saw  Smith  and  designated  him  from  the 
other  gentlemen  in  the  room  by  his  clothing.  On  seeing  him  thus  surrounded  by 
other  men,  one  would  suppose  that  her  nerves  would  lose  their  wonted  firmness. 
He  was  well  armed  and  resolute  in  character,  this  she  knew;  yet  stepping  in 
amidst  them  all,  in  a  voice  tremulous  with  emotion  and  ominous  in  its  tones,  she 
exclaimed,  "If  you  are  Smith,  defend  yourself."  In  an  instant,  as  he  arose,  she 


IOWA. 


513 


pointed  a  pistol  at  his  breast  and  fired;  he  fell,  and  she  retired  as  suddenly  as  she 
appeared.  It  was  all  done  so  quickly,  and  seemed  so  awful  that  the  specta 
tors  stood,  bewildered  at  the  tragical  scene,  until  it  was  too  late  to  prevent  the  dis 
aster. 

It  so  happened  that  Mr.  Smith  had,  at  the  time,  a  large  wallet  filled  with  papers 
in  his  breast  pocket.  The  ball  striking  about  its  center  did  not  of  course  pene 
trate  all  of  the  folded  leaves,  and  thus  providentially  his  life  was  spared. 

Smith,  soon  recovering  from  the  stunning  effects,  rushed  into  the  street  to  meet 
his  assailant;  but  she  had  fled  and  found  shelter  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Johnson,  a 
substantial  merchant  of  the  town,  and  was  subsequently  sent  away,  by  her  friends 
here,  to  some  relatives  in  Illinois,  where  she  was  afterward  married  to  a  Mr.  Wil 
liamson,  formerly  of  this  place.  Her  name,  Louisa,  has  been  given  to  one  of  the 
counties  in  our  State.  Smith  lived  several  years,  but  the  wounds  probably  has 
tened  his  death.  She  is  also  dead,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  God's  mercy  has  fol 
lowed  them  beyond  earth's  rude  strifes,  and  that  they  dwell  in  peace  in  a  purer 
and  better  world. 


Ruins  of  Camanche,  Clinton  county. 

After  the  Great  Tornado  of  Jane  3,  1860.     Engraved  from  a  view  taken  by  photograph. 

The  west  has,  at  various  periods  of  its  history,  been  subject  to  severe  tor 
nadoes,  which  have  carried  ruin  and  devastation  in  their  course.  The  most 
terrible  ever  known,  was  that  which  swept  over  eastern  Iowa  and  western  Illi 
nois,  on  the  evening  of  Sunday,  June  3,  1860.  It  commenced  about  five 
miles  beyond  Cedar  llapids,  in  Linn  county,  Iowa,  and  stopped  near  Elgin, 
Illinois,  thus  traversing  a  distance  of  nearly  200  miles.  It  varied  in  width 
from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles.  It  was  of  the  nature  of  a  whirlwind,  or  a*  some 
eye  witnesses  aver  of  two  whirlwinds,  moving  in  the  same  direction  and  ne-.ir 
each  other,  which  in  shape  resembled  a  funnel.  The  larger  villages  between 
Cedar  Rapids  and  the  Mississippi,  were  out  of  the  course  of  this  fearful  de 
stroyer;  but  much  property  was  damaged,  and  more  than  fifty  lives  lost  be 
fore  reaching  the  river.  The  town  of  Camanche,  on  the  Mississippi,  in  Clin 
ton  county,  about  70  miles  below  Dubuque,  was  utterly  destroyed,  and  New 
Albany,  opposite  it  on  the  Illinois  side,  nearly  ruined.  It  was  stated  in  the 

33 


514 


IOWA. 


prints  of  the  time,  that,  by  this  terrible  calamity,  2,500  persons  had  been 
rendered  houseless  and  homeless,  and  about  400  killed  and  wounded.  The 
account  of  this  event  is  thus  given  in  the  Fulton  Courier: 

The  storm  reached  Camanche  at  7.30  P.M.,  with  a  hollow,  rumbling  noise  her 
alding  its  approach,  which  sounded  like  a  heavy  train  of  cars  passing  over  a  bridge. 
Moving  with  the  velocity  of  lightning,  it  struck  the  devoted  town,  and  the  fearful 
work  of  havoc  commenced.  The  scene  that  followed,  as  given  by  eye  witnesses, 
can  neither  be  imagined  nor  described.  Amidst  the  roar  of  the  tempest,  the  rust 
ling  of  the  wind,  the  reverberating  peals  of  thunder,  the  vivid  flashes  of  lightning, 
the  pelting  of  the  rain,  the  crash  of  falling  buildings,  the  agonizing  shrieks  of  ter 
ror  stricken  women  and  children,  the  bewildered  attempts  to  escape,  and  the 
moans  of  the  dying,  but  little  opportunity  was  left  to  observe  the  general  appear 
ance  of  the  blow. 

Parents  caught  their  children  in  their  arms  and  rushed  frantic  for  any  place  that 
seemed  to  promise  safety.  Many  found  refuge  in  cellars,  which  to  others  proved 
graves.  So  sudden  was  the  shock  that  many  in  the  upper  parts  of  buildings  were 
left  no  time  to  flee  to  other  parts. 

To  go  outside  was  as  hazardous  as  to  remain  within.  The  turbulent  air  was  filled 
with  fragments  of  lumber,  furniture,  and  trees,  flying  in  every  direction,  with  the 
force  of  cannon  balls. 

Amidst  such  intense  excitement,  attended  with  such  fatal  consequences,  moments 
seem  years.  But  from  statements,  that  beyond  doubt  are  correct,  the  storm  did  not 
rage  less  than  two  and  a  half,  nor  more  than  five  minutes.  It  would  seem  impos 
sible,  on  looking  at  the  devastation,  to  suppose  it  the  work  of  so  short  a  time. 
Darkness  immediately  closed  over  the  scene,  and  left  a  pall  over  the  town  only 
equaled  by  the  darker  gloom  that  draped  the  hearts  of  the  survivors  of  the 
disaster. 

At  Albany,  heavy  warehouses  were  lifted  entire,  and  removed  some  considerable 
distance,  strong  brick  and  stone  buildings  entirely  demolished,  while  the  lighter 
frame  dwelling  houses  were,  in  most  cases,  entirely  swept  away.  We  could  not 
estimate  the  whole  number  of  buildings  injured,  but  could  learn  of  not  over  three 
houses  in  the  whole  town  that  were  not  more  or  less  damaged — most  of  them  de 
stroyed.  The  ground  was  strewed  with  fragments  of  boards.  The  hotel  kept  by 
Captain  Barnes  was  not  moved  from  its  foundation,  but  part  of  the  roof  and  inside 
partitions  were  carried  away.  The  brick  (Presbyterian)  church  was  leveled  to 
the  ground,  and  the  Congregational  much  injured.  The  brick  and  stone  houses 
seemed  to  afford  but  little  more  protection  than  the  frame,  and  when  they  fell  gave, 
of  course,  less  chance  of  escape.  But  one  place  of  business  (Mr.  Pease^s)  was  left 
in  a  condition  to  use.  The  buildings,  household  furniture,  provisions,  and  every 
thing  in  fact,  in  most  instances,  were  swept  beyond  the  reach  of  recovery.  The 
ferry-boat  was  lifted  from  the  water  and  laid  upon  the  shore.  Cattle,  horses,  and 
hogs,  were  killed  or  driven  away  by  the  irresistible  element.  The  loss  of  life,  how 
ever,  was  far  less  than  could  have  been  expected.  But  five  persons  were  killed,  and 
perhaps  fifty  or  sixty  injured. 

Camanche  was  almost  completely  destroyed.  A  very  few  buildings  were,  as  if 
by  miracle,  left  standing,  but  even  these  were  more  or  less  injured.  The  ground 
was  covered  with  splinters,  boards,  furniture,  etc.,  completely  shivered  to  pieces. 
Nothing  perfect  or  whole  was  to  be  seen,  but  everything  looked  as  though  it 
had  been  riven  by  lightning.  The  larger  trees  were  blown  down :  while  on  the 
smaller  ones  that  would  yield  to  the  wind,  were  to  be  seen  tattered  pieces  of  cloth 
ing,  carpets,  pillows,  and  even  mattresses,  nearly  torn  to  shreds.  The  river  below 
was  covered  with  marks  of  the  storm,  and  much  property  was  lost  by  being  swept 
into  the  water.  The  general  appearance  of  the  ground  was  much  like  the  traces 
left  by  a  torrent  where  flood-wood  is  left  lying  in  its  path.  Where  buildings  once 
stood  is  now  a  mass  of  unsightly  ruins.  It  is  with  difficulty  that  the  lines  of  the 
former  streets  can  be  traced.  ^Frame  houses  were  swept  away  or  turned  into  every 
conceivable  variety  of  positions.  Dead  animals  were  left  floating  in  the  river  or 
lying  among  the  ruins.  The  feathers  on  the  poultry  were  even  stripped  from  their 
bodies.  Everything  was  so  completely  scattered  and  destroyed  that  it  was  useless 


IOWA. 

to  attempt  to  recover  anything,  and  the  citizens  could  only  sit  down  in  despair. 
Until  12  M.  of  Monday,  the  work  of  exhuming  the  bodies  from  the  fallen  ruins  was 
still  progressing.  In  one  room  that  we  visited,  the  bodies  of  children  and  females 
were  lying  (ten  or  twelve  in  number),  clothed  in  their  white  winding  sheets.  It 
was  a  sight  that  we  pray  may  never  again  be  ours  to  witness.  The  little  children, 
in  particular,  had  but  few  face  injuries,  and  lay  as  if  sleeping. 

In  all,  thirty-eight  persons  were  reported  missing  at  Camanche,  and  thirty-two 
bodies  have  been  found.  About  eighty  were  reported  as  wounded,  some  of  whom 
have  since  died.  Information  has  been  received  which  furnishes  us  with  reliab]e 
accounts  of  139  deaths  caused  by  the  tornado  along  the  line  of  the  Iowa  and  Ne 
braska  road,  including  Camanche.  On  the  Illinois  side  of  the  river  the  loss  of 
life  has  not  been  quite  so  great,  but  we  think  we  are  safe  in  putting  the  total  num 
ber  of  killed  at  175.  The  wounded  are  by  far  more  numerous,  while  the  loss  of 
property  can  not  be  definitely  estimated.  We  hear  of  150  cattle  in  one  yard  in 
Iowa  that  were  all  destroyed.  Farm  houses,  fences,  crops,  railroad  cars,  and  all 
property  that  fell  in  the  path  of  the  tornado,  were  left  in  total  ruin.  There  were 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  worth  of  property  destroyed,  much  of  which  will 
never  be  reported.  • 

The  tornado  commenced  in  Linn  county,  Iowa,  and  stopped,  as  near  as  we  can 
learn,  in  the  vicinity  of  Elgin,  Illinois.  It,  of  course,  would  carry  objects  some 
times  in  opposite  directions,  moving  as  it  did  with  the  motion  of  a  whirlwind.  We 
saw  one  house  that  had  been  lifted  from  its  foundation,  and  carried  two  hundred 
feet  in  a  course  directly  contrary  to  the  regular  course  of  the  tornado. 

The  escapes  in  all  the  places  where  the  storm  passed,  were  often  truly  miracu 
lous.  In  Albany,  Mr.  Slaymaker  had  repaired  to  the  church  for  the  purpose  of 
ringing  the  bell  for  worship,  but  seeing  the  appearance  of  a  heavy  rain  approach 
ing,  concluded  not  to  ring  it  Had  the  congregation  been  called  together  it  would 
have  been  certain  death  to  all,  as  the  walls  of  the  church,  being  built  of  brick,  fell 
on  the  inside.  We  saw  a  small  house  that  had  been  carried  several  rods  with  three 
persons  in  it,  and  set  down  without  damage  to  the  house  or  inmates.  A  little 
daughter  of  Mr.  Swett  was  lying  on  a  bed,  and  was  blown  with  it  twenty  rods  into 
a  grove,  from  whence  it  came  unharmed,  calling  for  its  mother.  An  infant  son  of 
Mrs.  Joseph  Riley  was  buried  beneath  her,  and  it  is  thought  that  her  own  weight 
upon  it  was  the  cause  of  its  death.  One  family  took  refuge  in  a  meal  chest,  which, 
fortunately,  proved  strong  enough  to  protect  them  from  a  mass  of  rubbish  that 
covered  them.  Mrs.  Oliver  M'Mahan  fell  in  a  place  where  the  floor  of  the  first 
story  had  been  previously  partly  broken,  producing  a  sag  or  bend.  The  joists  fell 
over  her,  but  were  long  enough  to  reach  over  the  bend,  and  thus  saved  her  life. 
Mr.  Effner  had  at  one  time  been  safely  secure  in  his  cellar,  but  going  up  for  some 
thing  to  shield  his  child  from  the  cold,  was  killed  instantly.  We  saw  two  children 
who  were  killed  in  the  arms  of  their  mothers.  At  Camanche,  the  first  story  of  a 
hardware  store,  with  its  contents,  was  carried  into  the  river  and  lost,  while  the  up 
per  part  of  the  building  dropped  down  square  upon  the  foundation  as  though 
placed  there  by  mechanics.  A  child  was  blown  from  fifteen  miles  west  of  Camanche 
to  that  place  and  landed  uninjured.  One  man  in  Iowa  was  taken  up  200  feet.  A 
family  on  a  farm  took  refuge  in  a  "potato  hole,"  where  they  remained  secure;  but 
the  house  they  left  was  completely  demolished.  Pieces  of  boards  were  picked  up, 
eight  and  ten  miles  from  Albany,  in  both  north  and  south  directions.  A  wagon 
was  lifted  into  the  air,  broken  to  pieces,  and  the  tire  of  one  of  the  wheels  twisted 
out  of  all  shape.  Nine  freight  cars,  standing  on  the  track  at  Lisbon,  were  blown 
some  distance  from  the  place  they  were  standing.  The  tornado  raised  immediately 
over  the  house  of  Mr.  Minta,  in  Garden  Plain,  and  descended  to  strike  the  next 
house  beyond.  We  noticed  that  those  living  in  frame  houses  met  with  less  loss  of 
life  than  the  inmates  of  brick  or  stone  houses. 

A  passenger  from  the  west  informs  us  that  a  small  boy  was  blown  across  Cedar 
River,  and  his  mangled  body  left  in  the  forks  of  a  tree.  In  one  family  all  that 
was  left  were  three  little  girls,  the  father  and  mother  and  two  children  having  been 
instantly  killed.  We  saw  where  a  fence  board  had  been  forced  clear  through  the 
side  of  a  house,  endwise,  and  hundreds  of  shingles  had  forced  themselves  clear 
through  the  clapboards  of  a  house. 


516  IOWA- 

Another  eye  witness  says :  A  chimney,  weighing  about  two  tuns,  was  broken  off 
at  its  junction  with  the  roof,  lifted  into  the  air,  and  hurled  down  into  the  front 
yard,  burying  itself  in  the  ground  a  depth  of  three  feet,  without  breaking  or  crack 
ing  a  single  brick.  A  light  pine  shingle  was  driven  from  the  outside  through  the 
clapboards,  lath  and  plaster,  and  projects  two  inches  from  the  inside  wall  of  a  dwell 
ing  house.  No  other  known  force  could  have  accomplished  this.  A  common  trowel, 
such  as  is  used  by  masons,  was  driven  through  a  pine  knot  in  the  side  of  a  barn, 
projecting  full  two  inches.  In  one  spot  was  found  a  large  pile  of  book  covers, 
every  leaf  from  which  was  gone,  and  twisted  into  a  thousand  shapes.  Leaves  were 
stripped  of  their  tissue,  leaving  the  fibers  clean  and  bare  as  if  a  botanist  had 
neatly  picked  it  off.  Tree  trunks  were  twisted  several  times  round  until  they  were 
broken  off.  The  Millard  House,  a  three  story  brick  structure,  fronting  north,  was 
lifted  up  from  its  foundation  and  turned  completely  round,  so  that  the  front  door 
faced  the  south.  It  then  collapsed,  and  seemed  to  fall  outwardly  as  if  in  a  vacuum, 
and,  strange  to  relate,  out  of  seventeen  persons  in  the  house,  only  two  were  killed. 
One  house  upon  the  bank  was  lifted  from  its  foundation  and  whirled  into  the  river, 
crushing  as  it  fell  and  drowning  three  persons,  the  inmates. 

A  piano  was  taken  out  of  a  house  in  the  center  of  the  town,  and  carried  some 
distance  to  the  river  bank  without  breaking  it. 

The  effects  upon  some  of  the  houses  near  Camanche,  which  were  in  the  outer 
edge  of  the  tornado,  were  very  curious.  Upon  some  roofs  the  shingles  were 
stripped  off  in  faciful  shapes,  a  bare  spot  upon  one  roof  exactly  resembling  a  fig 
ure  8.  Some  roofs  were  entirely  unshingled,  and  in  some  cases  every  clapboard 
was  torn  off.  The  sides  of  some  houses  were  literally  perforated  with  boards, 
splintered  timbers  and  sharp  stakes.  In  some  parts  of  Camanche,  where  houses 
stood  thickly  clustered  together,  there  is  not  a  vestige  of  one  left.  Another  tract 
of  about  forty  acres  is  covered  with  splinters  about  two  feet  in  length.  The  lower 
stories  of  some  houses  were  blown  out  entirely,  leaving  the  upper  story  upon  the 
ground.  The  town  is  entirely  ruined,  and  we  do  not  see  how  it  can  ever  be  re 
built.  There  are  whole  blocks  of  lots  that  are  vacant  entirely,  with  nothing  but 
the  cellar  to  indicate  that  a  house  ever  stood  there. 

The  whole  atmosphere  around  the  place  is  sickening,  and  a  stench  is  pervading 
the  whole  path  of  the  storm  that  is  almost  impossible  to  endure. 


DAVENPORT,  a  flourishing  city,  the  county  seat  of  Scott,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of  the  upper  rapids, 
opposite  the  town  of  Rock  Island,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  most  mag 
nificent  railroad  bridge,  the  first  ever  built  over  the  Mississippi.  The  great 
railroad  running  through  the  heart  of  the  state,  and  designed  to  connect  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers,  has  its  eastern  terminus  at  Davenport.  The 
city  is  330  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  100  below  Galena.  The  rapids  ex 
tend  20  miles  above  this  place,  and  the  navigation  of  the  river  is  somewhat 
obstructed  by  them  during  the  time  of  low  water.  The  city  is  built  on 
ground  which  rises  gradually  from  the  water,  with  a  chain  of  rounded  hills 
in  the  back  ground.  Pop- 1860, 11,268. 

The  city  derived  its  name  from  Col.  George  Davenport,  who  was  born  in 
England,  in  1783.  He  came  to  this  country  when  a  young  man,  entered 
the  U.  S.  army  as  sergeant,  and  saw  considerable  service,  on  the  frontier,  in 
the  war  of  1812.  After  the  war,  he  settled  on  Rock  Island,  opposite  this 
town,  and  engaged  in  trading  with  the  Indians.  That  vicinity  was  densely 
settled  by  them.  The  village  of  Black  Hawk  was  there  in  the  forks  of 
Rock  River  and  the  Mississippi.  He  carried  on  the  fur  trade  very  exten 
sively  for  many  years,  establishing  trading  posts  at  various  points.  On  the 
4th  of  July,  1845,  a  band  of  robbers  entered  his  beautiful  residence  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  in  the  absence  of  his  family,  and  in  robbing,  accidentally 


IOWA. 


517 


shot  him.  He  died  the  same  night.  All  of  the  murderers  were  taken,  three 
were  hung  and  two  escaped.  Mr.  Davenport  was  of  a  very  free  and  gener 
ous  disposition,  jovial  and  fond  of  company.  Wherever  he  went  a  crowd 
assembled  around  him  to  listen  to  his  anecdotes  and  stories.  He  never  sued 


Southern  view  of  Davenport,  from  the  Rock  Island  Ferry. 

The  Steamboat  Landing  and  Flouring  Mill  is  seen  in  the  central  part.  The  Railroad  Depot  and  A.  Le- 
Claire's  residence,  on  an  elevation  in  the  distance,  on  the  right.  The  Iowa  College  building  on  the  left. 

any  one  in  his  life,  and  could  not  bear  to  see  any  one  in  distress  without  try 
ing  to  relieve  them.  The  biographer  of  Col.  Davenport  gives  these  inci 
dents  : 

During  the  Black  Hawk  war  Mr.  Davenport  received  a  commission  from  Gov. 
Keynolds,  appointing  him  acting  quartermaster  general,  with  the  rank  of  colonel. 
In  the  latter  part  of  the  summer  of  1832,  the  cholera  broke  out  among  the  troops 
on  the  island,  and  ranged  fearfully  for  about  ten  days ;  one  hundred  died  out  of  a 
population  of  four  hundred ;  every  person  was  dreadfully  alarmed.  An  incident 
occurred  during  this  time  which  will  show  the  state  of  feeling.  Mr.  Davenport, 
Mr.  LeClaire,  and  a  young  officer  were  standing  together  in  front  of  the  store  one 
morning.  The  officer  had  been  giving  them  an  account  of  the  number  of  deaths 
and  new  cases,  when  an  orderly  came  up  to  them  with  a  message  from  Gen.  Scott 
to  Mr.  LeClaire,  requesting  him  to  come  down  to  the  fort  as  soon  as  possible.  Mr. 
LeClaire  looked  at  Mr.  Davenport  to  know  what  excuse  to  make.  Mr.  Davenport, 
after  a  moment,  replied  to  the  orderly  to  tell  Gen.  Scott  that  Mr.  LeClaire  could 
not  come,  as  he  was  quite  sick.  The  officer  and  orderly  laughed  heartily  at  Mr. 
Davenport  and  Mr.  LeClaire  being  so  much  alarmed ;  but  next  morning  the  first 
news  they  received  from  the  fort,  was,  that  these  two  men  were  dead. 

At  the  time  the  cholera  broke  out  at  Fort  Armstrong,  there  were  two  Fox  chief's 
confined  in  the  guard-house  for  killing  the  Menomonies  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  and 
had  been  given  up  by  their  nation  as  the  leaders,  on  the  demand  of  our  govern 
ment,  and  were  awaiting  their  trial.  Mr.  Davenport  interceded  for  them  with  the 
commanding  officer,  to  let  them  out  of  their  prison,  and  give  them  the  range  of 
the  island,  with  a  promise  that  they  should  be  forthcoming  when  they  were  wanted. 
The  Indians  were  released,  and  they  pledged  their  word  not  to  leave  the  island 


518 


IOWA. 


nntil  permitted  to  do  so  by  the  proper  authorities.  During  all  the  time  the  fearful 
epidemic  raged  on  the  island,  and  every  person  was  fleeing  from  it  that  could  get 
away,  these  two  chiefs  remained  on  the  island,  hunting  and  fishing,  and  when  the 
sickness  had  subsided,  they  presented  themselves  at  the  fort  to  await  their  trial, 
thus  showing  how  binding  a  pledge  of  this  kind  was  with  this  tribe  of  Indians. 
Mr.  Davenport,  for  many  years,  was  in  the  habit  of  crediting  the  chiefs  of  the  dif 
ferent  villages  for  from  fifty  to  sixty  thousand  dollars  worth  of  goods  annually, 
having  nothing  but  their  word  pledged  for  the  payment  of  them,  which  they 
always  faithfully  performed. 

The  following  extracts  relative  to  the  early  history  of  Davenport,  are  from 
Wilkie's  History  of  the  city: 

"  In  the  year  1833,  there  were  one  or  two  claims  made  upon  the  lands  now 
occupied  by  the  lower  part  of  the  city.  The  claim  upon  which  the  city  was 
first  laid  out  was  contended  for  by  a  Dr.  Spencer  and  a  Mr.  McCloud.  The 
matter  was  finally  settled  by  Antoine  LeClaire  buying  them  both  out :  giv 
ing  them  $150.  .  .  .  Having  fenced  in  this  portion,  Mr.  LeClaire  cul 
tivated  it  until  it  was  sold  to  a  company  in  1835.  In  the  fall  of  this  year,  a 
company  was  formed  for  the  purchasing  and  laying  out  a  town  site.  They 
met  at  the  house  of  Col.  Davenport,  on  Rock  Island,  to  discuss  the  matter. 
The  following  persons  were  present:  Maj.  Wm.  Gordon,  Antoine  LeClaire, 
Col.  Geo.  Davenport,  Maj.  Thos.  Smith,  Alex.  McGregor,  Levi  S.  Colton,  and 
Philip  Hambaugh.  These  gentlemen,  with  Capt.  James  May,  then  in  Pitts- 
burg,  composed  the  company  which  secured  the  site 

In  the  spring  of  the  next  year,  the  site  was  surveyed  and  laid  out  by  Maj. 
Gordon,  U.  S.  surveyor,  and  one  of  the  stockholders.  The  cost  of  the  en 
tire  site  was  $2,000  or  $250  per  share.  In  May  the  lots  were  offered  at  auc 
tion.  A  steamboat  came  up  from  St.  Louis,  laden  with  passengers  to  attend 
the  sale,  which  continued  for  two  days.  Some  50  or  60  lots  only  were  sold, 
mostly  to  St.  Louis  speculators,  at  from  $300  to  $600  each.  The  remaining 
portion  of  the  site  was  divided  among  the  proprietors.  The  emigra 
tion  this  year  was  small,  only  some  half  dozen  families  coming  in.  The  first 
tavern  was  put  up  this  year  and  opened  by  Edward  Powers,  on  the  corner 
of  Front  and  Ripley-streets.  It  was  built  by  Messrs.  Davenport  and  Le 
Claire,  and  was  called  "Davenport  Jlotel."  A  log  shanty  drinking  saloon  was 
also  put  up,  which  stood  on  Front-street,  below  the  Western-avenue.  It  was 
long  a  favorite  resort  of  the  politician  and  thirsty. 

James  Mackintosh  opened  the  first  store,  and  commenced  business  in  a 
log  house  near  the  U.  S.  House,  corner  of  Ripley  and  Third-streets.  .  .  . 
Lumber  at  that  time  was  brought  from  Cincinnati,  and  almost  everything 
else  from  a  distance.  Flour  at  $16  per  barrel;  pork  at  16  cents  per  pound, 
were  brought  from  that  city.  Corn  was  imported  from  Wabash  River,  and 

brought  $2  per  bushel The  ferry  dates  its  existence  from  this 

year-:— it  being  a  flat  bottomed  craft,  technically  called  a  "  mud-boat."  This, 
in  1841,  was  superseded  by  a  horse-boat,  which  in  time  gave  way  to  steam.  . 

The  first  child  born  in  Davenport,  was  in  1841,  a  son  of  L.  S.  Colton.  .  . 
The  first  law  office  was  opened  by  A.  McGregor.  The  first  religious  dis 
course  was  delivered  by  Rev.  Mr.  Gavitt,  a  Methodist,  at  the  house  of  D.  C. 
Eldridge.  Preaching  also  from  an  Episcopalian  the  same  spring.  Reli 
gious  services  were  held  occasionally,  in  which  a  priest  from  Galena 
officiated.  .  .  .  The  pioneer  ball  was  held  at  Mr.  LeClaire's,  Jan.  8, 
1836.  Some  forty  couples  were  present,  consisting  of  frontier  men,  officers 
from  the  island,  and  others.  The  music  was  furnished  by  fiddles,  from  which 


IOWA.  519 

no  contemptible  strains  were  occasionally  drawn  by  Mr.  LeClairc  himself.  .  . 
The  party  danced  till  sunrise,  then  broke  up — the  gentlemen  being,  as  a 
general  thing,  as  genial  as  all  the  "  punches  "  they  could  possibly  contain, 
would  make  them. 

In  the  summer  of  1836,  Mr.  A.  LeClaire  was  appointed  postmaster.  Mails  came 
once  a  week  from  the  east,  and  once  in  two  weeks  from  Dubuque.  The  postmas 
ter  used  to  carry  the  mail  across  the  river  in  his  pocket,  and  the  per  centage  for 
the  first  three  months  was  seventy-Jive  cents.  In  September,  a  treaty  was  held  at 
East  Davenport,  between  Gov.  Dodge,  U.  S.  commissioner,  and  the  Sacs  and  Foxes. 
The  object  of  the  treaty  was  to  secure  possession  of  the  land  bordering  on  the 
Iowa  River,  and  known  as  "Keokuk's  Reserve."  About  one  thousand  chiefs  and 
warriors  were  present,  and  were  encamped  during  the  time  just  above  Renwick's 

mill This  was  the  last  treaty  ever  held  in  this  vicinity.     There  were 

seven  houses  at  the  close  of  this  year.  There  was  a  frame  dwelling  partly  finished 
and  owned  by  a  Mr.  Shields.  It  has  been  since  known  as  the  "Dillon  House" 
(of  which  a  gentleman,  since  governor  of  the  state,  was  once  hostler).  The  year 
(1836)  closed  with  a  population  of  less  than  one  hundred.  Stephenson  (now  Rock 
Island)  which  had  been  laid  out  in  1834,  had  at  this  time  a  population  of  nearly 
five  hundred 

The  first  duel  "on  record"  in  Iowa,  was  fought,  in  the  spring  of  1837,  between 
two  Winnebago  Indians.  These  young  men,  in  a  carousal  at  Stephenson,  com 
menced  quarreling,  and  finally  resorted  to  the  code  of  honor.  One  had  a  shot  gun, 
the  other  a  rifle.  On  the  Willow  Island,  below  the  city,  at  the  required  distance 
they  fired  at  each  other.  The  one  with  the  shot  gun  felJ,  and  was  buried  not  far 
from  the  graveyard  below  the  city.  The  survivor  fled  to  his  home  in  the  Rock 
River  country.  The  friends  and  relations  of  the  slain  clamored  for  the  blood  of 
the  slayer,  and  the  sister  of  the  latter  went  for  the  survivor.  She  found  him — en 
treated  him  to  come  back  to  Rock  Island  and  be  killed,  to  appease  the  wrathful 
manes  of  the  deceased.  He  came — in  a  canoe  paddled  by  his  own  sister — singing 
his  death  song.  A  shallow  grave  was  dug,  and  kneeling  upon  its  brink,  his  body 
tumbled  into  it,  and  his  death  song  was  hushed,  as  the  greedy  knives  of  the  exe 
cutioners  drank  the  blood  of  his  brave  heart. 

Dr.  A.  E.  Donaldson,  from  Pennsylvania,  came  in  July,  1837,  and  was,  it  is  stated,  * 
the  first  regular  physician.  The  religious  services,  for  this  year,  and  for  a  year  or 
two  afterward,  were  held  in  a  house  belonging  to  D.  C.  Eldridge.  Clergymen  of 
various  denominations  officiated.  In  1838,  during  the  summer,  the  first  brick  house 
was  erected  by  D.  C.  Eldridge,  standing  on  the  S.E.  corner  of  Main  and  Third- 
streets.  Nearly  at  the  same  time,  the  brick  building  now  used  by  the  Sisters,  in 
Catholic  block,  was  completed  as  a  church.  A  long  controversy  between  Rocking- 
harn  and  Davenport,  respecting  the  location  of  the  county  seat,  was  terminated  in 
favor  of  the  latter,  in  1840,  by  the  citizens  of  Davenport  agreeing  to  construct  the 
court  house  and  jail,  free  of  expense  to  the  county. 

The  celebrated  "  Missouri  War"  is  ascribed  to  about  this  date.  It  arose  from  a 
dispute  in  regard  to  boundary — two  lines  having  been  run.  The  northern  one  cut 
off  a  strip  of  Iowa  some  six  or  eight  miles  in  width,  and  from  this  portion  Mis 
souri  endeavored  to  collect  taxes.  The  inhabitants  refused  to  pay  them,  and  the 
Missouri  authorities  endeavored,  by  sending  a  sheriff,  to  enforce  payment.  A  fight 
ensued,  and  an  lowan  was  killed,  and  several  taken  prisoners.  The  news  spread 
along  the  river  counties,  and  created  intense  excitement.  War  was  supposed  to  be 
impending,  or  to  have  actually  begun. 

Col.  Dodge,  an  individual  somewhat  noted  as  the  one  who,  in  connection  with 
Theller,  had  been  imprisoned  by  the  Canadian  authorities  for  a  participation  in 
the  "Patriot  War,"  had  lately  arrived  here,  after  breaking  jail  in  Canada.  Hss 
arrival  was  opportune — a  call  for  volunteers  to  march  against  Missouri  was  circu 
lated,  and  was  responded  to  by  some  three  hundred  men,  who  made  Davenport 
their  rendezvous  on  the  proposed  day  of  marching.  A  motley  crowd  was  it!  Arms 
were  of  every  kind  imaginable,  from  pitchforks  to  blunderbusses,  and  Queen  Anne 
muskets.  One  of  the  colonels  wore  a  common  rusty  grass  scythe  for  a  sword, 
while  Capt.  Higginson,  of  company  A,  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  find  an  old 


520  IOWA. 

sword  that  an  Indian  had  pawned  for  whisky,  which  he  elegantly  belted  around 
him  with  a  heavy  log  chain. 

The  parade  ground  was  in  front  of  the  ground  now  occupied  by  the  Scott  House. 
Refreshments  were  plenty,  and  '•  steam  "  was  being  rapidly  developed  for  a  start, 
when  word  came  that  peace  was  restored — Missouri  having  resigned  her  claim 
to  the  disputed  ground.  The  army  was  immediately  disbanded,  in  a  style 
that  would  do  honor  to  the  palmiest  revels  of  Bacchus.  Speeches  were  made, 
toasts  drunk,  and  a  host  of  maneuvers,  not  in  the  military  code,  were  performed, 
to  the  great  amusement  of  all.  Some,  in  the  excess  of  patriotism  and  whisky, 
started  on  alone  to  Missouri,  but  lay  down  in  the  road  before  traveling  far,  and 
slept  away  their  valor. 

St.  Anthony's  Church,  the  first  erected,  was  dedicated  May  23, 1839,  by  Rt.  Rev. 
Bishop  Loras,  of  Dubuque.  The  Catholic  Advocate  thus  states,  "Mr.  Antoine  Le- 
Claire,  a  wealthy  Frenchman,  and  a  zealous  and  exemplary  Christian,  in  partner 
ship  with  Mr.  Davenport,  has  granted  to  the  Catholic  congregation,  in  the  very  cen 
ter  of  the  town,  a  whole  square,  including  ten  lots,  erecting,  partly  at  his  own  ex 
pense,  a  fine  brick  church  with  a  school  room  attached." The  Rev. 

Mr.  Pelamourgues,  who  first  assumed  charge  of  the  church,  still  retains  it. 

The  First  Presbyterian  Church  was  established  in  the  spring  of  1838,  pastor, 
James  D.  Mason ;  the  Davenport  Congregational  Church  was  organized  July  30, 
1839,  by  Rev.  Albert  Hale;  their  present  church  building  was  erected  in  1844. 
The  first  regular  services  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  were  commenced 
here  Oct.  14,  1841,  by  Rev.  Z  H.  Goldsmith.  The  corner  stone  of  the  present 
edifice  of  Trinity  Church  was  laid,  by  Bishop  Kemper,  May  5,  1852.  The  Metho 
dist  Episcopal  Church  was  established  Junel,  1842;  the  First  Baptist  Church  was 
established  in  1839,  N.  S.  Bastion,  pastor;  the  German  Congregation  was  estab 
lished  July  19,  1857,  A.  Frowein,  pastor;  "Church  of  Christ,"  or  Disciples  Church 
established  July  28,  1839. 

The  first  newspaper  was  the  "  Iowa  Sun  and  Davenport  and  Rock  Island  News," 
issued  in  Aug.,  1838,  by  Alfred  Sanders.  It  was  continued  till  1841,  when  it  was 
succeeded  by  the  "Davenport  Weekly  Gazette."  The  "Weekly  Banner"  was 
started  in  1848,  by  A.  Montgomery;  in  1855,  it  was  bought  by  Messrs.  Hildreth, 
Richardson  &  West,  and  was  changed  to  the  "  Iowa  State  Democrat."  The  "  Even 
ing  News,"  daily  and  weekly,  was  started  by  Harrington  &  Wilkie,  Sept.,  1856. 
The  "Der  Demokrat"  (German)  was  established,  by  T.'Guelich,  in  1851. 

BeMevue,  the  capital  of  Jackson  county,  is  on  the  Mississippi,  12  miles 
below  Galena.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  state,  having  been  first 
settled  in  1836,  by  J.  D.  Bell.  The  location  being  a  beautiful  one,  had  long 
been  a  favorite  spot  with  the  Indians.  The  population  in  1860  was  about 
1.500. 

The  following  interesting  narrative  of  some  incidents  which  took  place 
here  in  the  early  settlement  of  the  place  is  given  to  us  by  Win.  A. 
Warren  Esq.  He  was  the  sheriff  in  command  of  the  posse  of  citizens, 
some  of  whom  it  will  be  seen  lost  their  lives  in  their  efforts  to  restore  law 
and  order. 

In  the  year  1836,  was  organized  a  band  of  horse-thieves,  counterfeiters,  and  high 
way  robbers,  having  their  head-quarters  near  Elk  Heart,  Michigan,  and  extending 
their  ramifications  in  all  directions  from  that  point,  many  hundred  miles.  The 
Rock  River  valley,  Illinois,  and  the  settled  portions  of  what  is  now  Iowa,  were  the 
chief  points  of  their  operations,  although  the  band  extended  through  Kentucky, 
Missouri,  and  even  to  the  Cherokee  Nation. 

Their  organization  was  complete.  They  had  their  pass  words,  and  Bother  means 
of  recognition.  No  great  master  spirit  controlled  the  whole  organization,  as  is 
usually  the  case  in  criminal  associations  of  that  nature.  The  leaders  were  those 
whose  education  rendered  them  superior  to  the  instincts  of  the  half  savage  settlers 
with  whom  they  were  associated. 

Their  method  of  doing  business,  and  escaping  detection,  was  as  follows :  B.'s 


IOWA 


521 


band,  in  Iowa,  would  "spot"  certain  horses  and  other  "plunder,"  and  arrange  to 
make  a  foray  on  some  particular  night.  A.,  in  Missouri,  having  obtained  the 
knowledge  of  this,  would  start  his  band  on  a  marauding  expedition  the  same  night 
But  those  who  were  to  do  the  plundering  would  make  a  feint  to  go  north  or  south 
on  a  trading  expedition,  a  day  or  two  before  the  time  fixed  upon,  and  returning  at 
night,  would  be  carefully  concealed  until  the  proper  time,  when  they  would  sally 
forth  on  the  expedition  in  earnest.  The  two  bands  then  meeting  half  way,  would 
exchange  the  stolen  property,  and  returning,  dispose  of  the  plunder,  perhaps  to 
the  very  persons  whom  they  had  robbed  a  few  nights  before. 


Storming  of  the  Bellevue  Hotel,  by  the  Citizens. 

The  engraving  illustrates  a  scene  in  the  early  history  ot  Bellevue.  The  hotel  of  the  town  was  occupied 
by  a  band  of  outlaws,  who  had  been  the  terror  of  the  whole  country  for  hundreds  of  miles  distant.  As 
they  defied  the  authorities,  the  citizens  were  compelled  to  resort  to  arms.  The  stronghold  was  carried  by 
storm,  in  which  several  were  slain  on  each  side. 

Those  of  the  band  who  were  merely  accomplices,  were  careful  to  be  visiting 
some  honest  neighbor  on  the  night  of  the  robbery,  and  thus  avert  suspicion  from 
themselves.  By  this  means,  it  will  be  seen,  that  detection  was  almost  impossible, 
and  suspicion  unlikely  to  rest  upon  the  real  perpetrators. 

The  then  frontier  village  of  Bellevue,  was  a  central  point  on  this  route,  and  also 
the  head  quarters  of  one  of  the  most  numerous  and  powerful  of  the  bands.  Its 
leader,  William  Brown,  was  a  man  remarkable  in  many  respects.  He  came  to 
Bellevue  in  the  spring  of  1836,  and  soon  after  brought  out  his  family  and  opened 
a  public  house,  which  was  destined  to  become  famous  in  the  village  history. 
Brown,  physically,  was  a  powerful  man,  and  in  education  superior  to  those  around 
him.  Ho  possessed  a  pleasant,  kindly  address,  and  was  scrupulously  honest  in  his 
every  day's  dealings  with  his  neighbors.  It  is  said  that  none  who  reposed  confi 
dence  in  him  in  a  business  transaction  ever  regretted  it.  He  was  ably  seconded 
by  his  wife,  a  woman  of  about  24  years  of  age,  and  of  more  than  ordinary  natural 
capacity.  They  had  but  one  child,  a  little  girl  of  some  four  years  of  age.  Ever 
ready  to  assist  the  destitute,  the  foremost  in  public  improvements,  this  family  soon 
booame  idolized  by  the  rude  population  of  that  early  day,  so  that  nothing  but  pos 
itive  proof  finally  fastened  suspicions  of  dishonesty  upon  them.  Having,  by  his 


522  IOWA- 

wiles,  seduced  a  larger  part  of  the  young  men  into  his  band,  and  being  daily  rein 
forced  from  other  quarters,  Brown  became  more  bold  in  his  operations,  then  threw 
off  the  mask,  and  openly  boasted  of  his  power  and  the  inability  of  the  authorities 
to  crush  him  out.  It  was  no  idle  boast  Fully  two  thirds  of  the  able  bodied  men 
in  the  settlement  were  leagued  with  him.  He  never  participated  in  passing  coun 
terfeit  money,  stealing  horses,  etc.,  but  simply  planned. 

Any  man  who  incurred  the  enmity  of  the  "gang,"  was  very  certain  to  wake 
some  morning  and  find  his  crops  destroyed,  his  horses  stolen,  and  the  marks  of  his 
cattle  having  been  slaughtered  in  his  own  yard ;  in  all  probability  the  hind  quar 
ters  of  his  favorite  ox  would  be  offered  for  sale  at  his  own  door  a  few  hours  there 
after.  If  one  of  his  gang  was  arrested,  Brown  stood  ready  to  defend  him,  with  an 
argument  not  now  always  attainable  by  the  legal  profession — he  could,  at  a  mo 
ment's  notice,  prove  an  alibi.  Thus  matters  went  on,  until  it  became  apparent  to 
the  honest  portion  of  the  community  that  the  crisis  had  arrived. 

As  an  instance  of  the  boldness  which  they  evinced,  now  the  band  had  become 
so  powerful,  we  give  an  incident  of  the  stealing  of  a  plow  from  a  steamboat.  In 
the  spring  of  1839,  a  steamboat  landed  at  Bellevue  to  wood;  the  boat  was  crowded 
with  passengers,  and  the  hurricane  deck  covered  with  plows.  It  being  a  pleasant 
day,  the  citizens  old  and  young,  according  to  custom,  had  sallied  forth  to  the  river 
side,  as  the  landing  of  a  steamboat  was  then  by  no  means  a  daily  occurrence.  The 
.writer  of  this,  standing  near  Brown,  heard  him  remark  to  a  man,  named  Hapgood, 
and  in  the  presence  of  numerous  citizens,  "that,  as  he  (H.)  had  long  wanted  to 
join  Brown  s  party,  if  he  would  steal  one  of  those  plows,  and  thus  prove  his  qual 
ifications,  he  should  be  admitted  to  full  fellowship."  Hapgood  agreed  to  make  the 
trial,  and  thereupon,  to  our  surprise,  as  we  had  supposed  the  conversation  to  be 
merely  in  jest,  he  went  upon  the  hurricane  deck,  and  in  the  presence  of  the  cap 
tain,  passengers,  and  citizens  on  shore,  shouldered  a  plow  and  marched  off  the 
boat  and  up  the  levee.  When  on  the  boat,  Hapgood  conversed  with  the  captain 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  the  captain  pointed  out  to  him  which  plow  to  take.  In  a 
few  moments  the  boat  was  gone,  and  Hapgood  boasted  of  the  theft.  It  was  sup 
posed  that  he  had  bought  the  plow  and  paid  the  captain  for  it,  but  the  next  day, 
when  the  boat  returned,  there  was  great  and  anxious  inquiry,  by  the  captain,  "  for 
the  man  that  took  that  plow,"  but  he  had  disappeared,  and  remained  out  of  sight 
until  the  boat  was  gone.  About  the  same  time  another  bold  robbery  occurred 
near  Bellevue,  the  incidents  of  which  so  well  illustrate  the  character  of  these 
ruffians,  that  we  can  not  forbear  recounting  them. 

One  Collins,  a  farmer,  living  about  eight  miles  from  town,  came  in  one  day  and 
sold  Brown  a  yoke  of  cattle  for  $80.  Being  a  poor  judge  of  money,  and  knowing 
Brown's  character  well,  he  refused  to  take  anything  in  payment  but  specie.  On 
his  return  home  that  evening,  he  placed  his  money  in  his  chest.  About  midnight 
his  house  was  broken  open  by  two  men,  upon  which  he  sprang  from  his  bed,  but 
was  immediately  knocked  down.  His  wife  coming  to  his  rescue  was  also  knocked 
down,  and  both  were  threatened  with  instant  death  if  any  more  disturbance  was 
made.  The  robbers  then  possessed  themselves  of  Collins'  money  and  watch  and 
departed.  In  the  morning  he  made  complaint  before  a  justice  of  the  peace,  ac 
cusing  two  men  in  the  employment  of  Brown  with  the  crime.  They  were  arrested 
and  examined.  On  the  trial,  Collins  and  his  wife  swore  positively  to  the  men,  and 
also  identified  a  watch  found  with  them  as  the  one  taken.  In  their  possession  was 
found  $80  in  gold,  the  exact  amount  stolen.  A  farmer  living  near  Collins,  testified 
that  about  11  o'clock,  on  the  night  of  the  robbery,  the  accused  stopped  at  his 
house  and  inquired  the  way  to  Collins'.  Here  the  prosecution  closed  their  evidence, 
and  the  defense  called  three  witnesses  to  the  stand,  among  whom  was  Fox,  after 
ward  noted  as  the  murderer  of  Col.  Davenport,  all  of  whom  swore  positively  that, 
on  the  night  of  the  robbery,  they  and  the  accused  played  cards  from  dark  till  day 
light,  in  Brown's  house,  eight  miles  from  the  scene  of  the  robbery!  In  the  face 
of  the  overwhelming  testimony  adduced  by  the  state,  the  defendants  were  dis 
charged  ! 

Another  laughable  instance,  displaying  the  shrewdness  and  villainy  of  these  fel 
lows,  occurred  early  in  the  spring  of  1838.  Godfrey  (one  of  the  robbers  of  Col 
lins)  came  into  town  with  a  fine  span  of  matched  horses,  with  halter  ropes  around 


IOWA.  523 

their  necks.  From  the  known  character  of  their  possessor,  the  sheriff  thought  best 
to  take  the  horses  into  his  custody.  Brown's  gang  remonstrated  against  the  pro 
ceedings,  but  to  no  effect.  Subsequently  a  writ  of  replevin  was  procured,  and  the 
horses  demanded — the  sheriff  refused  to  give  them  up.  A  general  row  ensued. 
The  citizens,  being  the  stronger  party  at  that  time,  sustained  the  sheriff,  and  he 
maintained  the  dignity  of  his  office.  Handbills,  describing  the  horses  accurately, 
were  then  sent  around  the  county.  A  few  days  afterward,  a  stranger  appeared  in 
town,  anxiously  inquiring  for  the  sheriff,  and  upon  meeting  him,  he  announced  his 
business  to  be  the  recovery  of  a  fine  span  of  horses,  which  had  been  stolen  from 
him  a  short  time  before,  and  then  so  accurately  described  those  detained  by  the 
sheriff,  that  the  latter  informed  him  that  he  then  had  them  in  his  stable.  Upon 
examining  them,  the  man  was  gratified  to  find  that  they  were  his;  turning  to  the 
crowd,  he  offered  $25  to  any  one  who  would  produce  Godfrey,  remarking  that,  if  he 
met  him,  he  would  wreak,  his  vengeance  upon  him  in  a  summary  manner,  without 
the  intervention  of  a  jury.  Godfrey  was  not,  however,  to  be  found,  and  the  horses 
were  delivered  to  the  stranger. 

Imagine  the  consternation  of  the  sheriff,  when,  two  days  later,  the  true  owner 
of  the  horses  appeared  in  search  of  them!  The  other  was  an  accomplice  of  God 
frey,  and  they  had  taken  that  method  of  securing  their  booty.  Similar  incidents 
could  be  detailed  to  fill  pages,  for  they  were  of  continual  occurrence. 

On  the  20th  of  March,  1840,  the  citizens  of  Bellevue,  not  implicated  in  the 
plans  of  the  horse-thieves  and  counterfeiters,  held  a  meeting  to  consider  the 
wrongs  of  the  community.  But  one  opinion  was  advanced,  that  the  depredators 
must  leave  the  place  or  summary  vengeance  would  be  inflicted  upon  them  all.  It 
was  resolved  that  a  warrant  should  be  procured  for  the  arrest  01  the  whole  gang, 
from  Justice  Watkins — father  of  our  present  sheriff— and,  upon  a  certain  day,  the 
sheriff,  accompanied  by  all  the  honest  citizens  as  a  posse,  should  proceed  to  serve 
the  same.  The  warrant  was  issued  upon  the  affidavit  of  Anson  Harrington,  Esq., 
one  of  our  most  respectable  citizens,  charging  about  half  the  inhabitants  of  the 
town — Brown's  men—  with  the  commission  of  crimes. 

A  posse  of  80  men  was  selected  by  the  sheriff  from  among  the  best  citizens  of 
the  county,  who  met  in  Bellevue  on  the  first  day  of  April,  1840,  at  10  o'clock,  A.M. 
Brown,  in  the  mean  time,  had  got  wind  of  the  proceedings,  and  had  rallied  a  party 
of  23  men,  whose  names  were  on  the  warrant,  and  proceeded  to  fortify  the  Bellevue 
Hotel,  and  prepare  for  a  vigorous  defense.  On  the-sheriff's  arriving  in  Bellevue 
with  his  party,  he  found  a  red  flag  streaming  from  the  hotel,  and  a  portion  of 
Brown's  men  marching  to  and  fro  in  front  of  their  fort,  armed  with  rifles,  present 
ing  a  formidable  appearance. 

A  meeting  of  the  citizens  was  then  convened  to  consult  upon  the  best  method 
of  securing  the  ends  of  justice,  of  which  Major  Thos.  S.  Parks  was  chairman.  It 
was  resolved  that  the  sheriff  should  go  to  Brown's  fort,  with  two  men,  and  demand 
their  surrender,  reading  his  warrant,  and  assuring  them  that  they  should  be  pro 
tected  in  their  persons  and  propecfcy.  It  was  also  resolved,  if  they  did  not  surren 
der,  to  storm  the  house,  and  that  Col.  Thos.  Cox,  then  a  representative  in  the  Iowa 
legislature,  should  assist  the  sheriff  in  the  command  of  the  party  selected  for  this 
purpose. 

The  sheriff  then  went  to  the  hotel,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Watkins  and  Ma- 
goon.  When  near  the  house,  they  were  suddenly  surrounded  by  Brown  and  a 
party  of  his  men,  all  fully  armed.  They  captured  the  sheriff,  and  ordered  Watkins 
and  Magoon  to  return  and  inform  the  citizens,  that  at  the  first  attempt  to  storm 
the  house,  they  would  shoot  the  sheriff.  Being  conducted  into  the  house,  the  sheriff 
read  his  warrant  and  informed  them  of  the  proceedings  of  the  meeting.  Just  then 
it  was  discovered  that  Col.  Cox,  with  a  party  of  citizens,  was  rapidly  advancing 
on  the  hotel.  Upon  the  sheriff's  promise  to  stop  them  and  then  return,  he  was  re 
leased  by  Brown.  He  met  the  party,  and  accosting  Cox,  requested  him  to  delay 
the  attack  one  hour,  and  if  he  (the  sheriff)  did  not  return  by  that  time,  for  them 
to  come  on  and  take  the  house. 

Cox  was  determined  the  Sheriff  should  not  return,  saying  that  he  should  not 
keep  his  word  with  such  a  band  of  ruffians.  Better  counsels,  however,  prevailed, 
and  the  sheriff  went  back.  On  his  return  he  found  that  Brown's  men  had  been 


524 

drinking  freely  to  keep  up  their  courage.  After  some  parleying,  Brown  deter 
mined  not  to  surrender,  commanding  the  sheriff  to  return  to  his  men  and  tell  them 
to  come  on,  and  if  they  succeeded  in  carrying  the  hotel,  it  should  only  be  over  their 
dead  bodies. 

The  sheriff  returned  and  disclosed  the  result  of  his  interview.  Mrs.  Brown,  in 
the  mean  time,  and  a  fellow  called  Buckskin,  paraded  the  streets  with  a  red  flag. 
The  citizens  were  then  addressed  by  Cox  and  Watkins,  and  it  was  finally  deter 
mined  that  a  body  of  forty  men  should  be  selected  to  make  the  attack,  upon  which 
the  posse  started  and  charged  upon  the  house  at  a  full  run.  As  our  men  entered 
the  porch,  the  garrison  commenced  tiring,  but  we  being  so  near  they  generally  over 
shot  their  mark.  At  the  first  fire  one  of  our  best  men,  Mr.  Palmer,  was  killed,  and 
another,  Mr.  Vaughn,  badly  wounded.  Brown  opened  the  door  and  put  out  his 
gun  to  shoot,  when  he  was  immediately  shot  down  by  one  of  our  men.  The  battle 
then  became  desperate  and  hand  to  hand.  After  considerable  hard  fighting,  the 
"  balance  "  of  the  gang  commenced  their  retreat  through  the  back  door  of  the 
house.  They  were  surrounded  and  all  captured  but  three.  The  result  of  the 
fight  was,  on  the  part  of  the  counterfeiters  the  loss  of  five  killed  and  two  badly 
wounded ;  on  the  part  of  the  citizens,  four  killed  and  eleven  wounded. 

The  excitement  after  the  fight  was  intense.  Many  of  the  citizens  were  in  favor 
of  putting  all  the  prisoners  to  death.  Other  counsels,  however,  prevailed,  and  a 
citizens'  court  was  organized  to  try  them. 

During  the  fight,  Capt.  Harris  anchored  his  boat  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  and 
remained  there  until  the  result  was  known,  when  the  passengers  ascended  to  the 
upper  deck  and  gave  three  hearty  cheers.  Doctors  Finley,  of  l)ubuque,  and  Cross- 
man,  of  Galena,  were  sent  for,  and  were  soon  in  attendance  on  the  wounded  of 
both  parties. 

Much  joy  was  manifested  by  the  citizens  at  the  breaking  up  of  one  of  the  most 
desperate  gangs  of  housebreakers,  murderers  and  counterfeiters,  that  ever  infested 
the  western  country.  The  next  morning  a  vote  of  the  citizens  was  taken  as  to  the 
disposal  of  the  prisoners. 

As  the  district  court  was  not  to  meet  for  three  months,  and  there  being  no  jail 
in  the  county,  and  in  fact  none  in  the  territory  that  was  safe,  and  surrounded  as 
we  were  on  all  sides,  by  offshoots  of  the  same  band,  who  could  muster  200  men  in 
a  day's  time  to  rescue  them,  it  was  deemed  the  merest  folly  to  attempt  to  detain 
them  as  prisoners,  and  it  was  resolved  to  execute  summary  justice  upon  them. 
The  question  was  then  put,  whether  to  hang  or  whip  them.  A  cup  of  red  and 
white  beans  was  first  passed  around,  to  be  used  as  ballots,  the  red  for  hanging,  and 
the  white  for  whipping. 

A  breathless  silence  was  maintained  during  the  vote.  In  a  few  moments  the 
result  was  announced.  It  stood  forty-two  white  and  thirty-eight  red  beans.  The 
resolution  to  whip  them  was  then  unanimously  adopted.  Fox,  afterward  the  mur 
derer  of  Davenport,  and  several  others  made  full  confessions  of  many  crimes,  in 
which  they  had  been  engaged.  The  whole  crowd  of  prisoners  was  then  taken 
out  and  received  from  twenty-five  to  seventy  five  lashes  apiece,  upon  their  bare 
backs,  according  to  their  deserts.  They  were  then  put  into  boats  and  set  adrift  in 
the  river,  without  oars,  and  under  the  assurance  that  a  return  would  insure  a 
speedy  death. 

Animated  by  the  example  of  Bellevue,  the  citizens  of  Rock  River,  111.,  Linn, 
Johnson,  and  other  counties,  in  Iowa,  arose  en  masse,  and  expelled  the  gangs  of 
robbers  from  their  midst,  with  much  bloodshed. 

Thus  ended  the  struggle  for  supremacy  between  vice  and  virtue  in  Bellevue, 
which,  from  this  day  forth,  has  been  as  noted,  in  the  Mississippi  valley,  for  the 
morality  of  its  citizens,  as  it  was  once  rendered  infamous  by  their  crimes. 


BURLINGTON,  a  flourishing  commercial  city,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Des 
Moines  county,  is  on  the  western  side  of  the  Mississippi,  45  miles  above 
Keokuk,  248  above  St.  Louis,  and  1,429  above  New  Orleans.  The  city  was 
organized  under  a  charter  from  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin,  in  1838.  It  is 


IOWA.  525 

regularly  laid  out  and  beautifully  situated.  Part  of  the  city  is  built  on  the 
high  grounds  or  bluffs,  rising  in  some  places  about  200  feet  above  the 
river,  affording  a  beautiful  and  commanding  view  of  the  surrounding  coun 
try:  with  the  river,  and  its  woody  islands,  stretching  far  away  to  the 


South-eastern  view  of  Burlington. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  the  city,  as  seen  from  near  the  South  Bluff:  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  Burlington  and  Missouri  Railroad,  the  Court  House,  and  other  public  buildings,  on  the  elevated  ground 
in  the  distance,  appear  in  the  central  part ;  the  North  Bluff  and  Steamboat  Landing  on  the  right 

north  and  south.  It  has  a  variety  of  mechanical  and  manufacturing  estab 
lishments.  The  pork  packing  business  is  carried  on  extensively.  It  is  the 
seat  of  the  Burlington  University,  and  contains  12  churches,  in  1860,  6,706. 
inhabitants. 

The  country  for  sixty  miles  around  Burlington,  sometimes  called  the  "gar 
den  of  Iowa,"  is  very  fertile.  Near  the  city  are  immense  quantities  of  gray 
limestone  rock,  suitable  for  building  purposes. 

The  first  white  person  who  located  himself  in  Burlington,  appears  to  have 
'been  Samuel  S.  White,  a  native  of  Ohio,  who  built  a  cabin  here,  in  1832, 
close  to  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  upper  bluff.  The  United  States,  accord 
ing  to  the  treaty  with  the  Indians,  not  being  then  entitled  to  the  lands  west 
of  the  Mississippi,  the  dragoons  from  Fort  Armstrong  came  down,  burnt 
White  out,  and  drove  him  over  to  the  Illinois  side  of  the  river.  He  re 
mained  on  Honey  Creek  till  the  1st  of  the  next  June,  when,  the  Indian  title 
being  extinguished,  he  returned  and  rebuilt  his  cabin  near  its  former  site. 

Mr.  White  was  soon  afterward  joined  by  Amzi  Doolittle,  and  in  1834,  they 
laid  out  the  first  part  of  the  town  on  the  public  lands.  The  survey  of  White 
and  Doolittle  was  made  by  Benjamin  Tucker  and  Dr.  Wm.  R.  Ross.  Their 
bounds  extended  down  to  Hawkeye  Creek.  White  and  Doolittle  afterward 
sold  out  all  their  lands  and  removed.  The  first  addition  to  this  tract  w;:s 
made  by  Judge  David  Rorer,  a  native  of  Virginia,  in  April,  1836,  who  had 
emigrated  the  month  previous.  In  July  of  this  year,  he  built  the  first  brick 
building  ever  erected  in  Iowa.  Judge  R.  laid  the  first  brick  with  his  own 
hands.  This  building  stood  on  what  is  now  lot  438,  the  next  corner  north 


526 


IOWA. 


of  Marion  Hall.  This  dwelling  was  taken  down  by  Col.  "Warren,  in  1854  or 
'55.  The  first  location  made  outside  the  town,  was  by  a  settler  named  To- 
thero,  whose  cabin  was  about  three  miles  from  the  river;  this  was  previous 
to  June,  1833.  He  was  consequently  driven  t)ff  by  the  drag  ./ons,  and  his 
cabin  destroyed. 

The  town  was  named  by  John  Gray,  a  native  of  Burlington,  Vermont,  and 

brother-in-law  to  White,  the  first  set 
tler.  The  Flint  Hills  were  called  by 
the  Indians  Shokokon,  a  word  in  their 
language  signifying  "  flint  hills ;"  these 
bluffs  are  generally  about  150  feet 
above  the  river.  Burlington  became 
the  county  seat  of  Des  Moines  in 
1834,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Michi 
gan.  In  1836  it  was  made  the  seat  of 
government  of  Wisconsin  Territory, 
and  in  the  fall  of  1837,  the  legislature 
of  that  territory  first  met  at  Burling 
ton.  When  Iowa  Territory  was  formed 
in  1838,  Burlington  became  the  seat 
of  government.  The  building  in  which 
the  legislative  assembly  first  met  stood 
on  the  river  bank,  just  north  of  Colum 
bia-street.  It  was  burnt  down  soon 
afterward.  At  the  first  court  he^d  in 


JUDGE  RORER'S  HOUSE. 
The  first  brick  building  erected  in  Iowa. 


Burlington,  three  divorces  were  granted,  one  conviction  for  assault  and  bat 
tery,  and  one  fine  for  contempt  of  court.  The  record  does  not  show  the 
grounds  of  contempt,  but  from  other  sources  we  learn  i\t  was  a  rencounter  in 
open  court,  in  which  the  tables  of  the  judges,  being  clry  goods  boxes  and 
barrels  with  planks  laid  across,  were  overturned.  The  hero  of  the  occasion 
was  afterward  taken  prisoner  in  the  Santa  Fe  expedition  from  Texas. 

Dr.  Ross  and  Maj.  Jeremiah  Smith,  who  came  to  Burlington  in  1833,  were 
the  first  merchants.  The  first  church  (the  Methodist  Old  Zion)  was  erected 
the  same  year,  and  is  believed  to  have  been  the  first  house  of  worship  erected 
in  Iowa.  In  this  venerable  structure,  which  is  still  standing,  the  legislative 
body  have  met  and  courts  have  been  held.  The  "Iowa  Territorial  Gazette," 
the  first  newspaper,  was  issued  in  the  summer  of  1837,  by  James  Clarke, 
from  Pennsylvania,  who  was  subsequently  governor  of  the  territory.  The 
second  paper  was  the  "Iowa  Patriot,"  afterward  the  "Hawkeye,"  by  James 
Gr.  Edwards,  of  Boston.  The  Iowa  Historical  and  Geological  Society  was  or 
ganized  in  1843,  and  is  the  oldest  literary  society  in  the  state. 


The  following  inscriptions  are  from  monuments  in  the  Aspen  Grove  Cem 
etery,  at  the  N.W.  border  of  the  city: 

Here  lie  the  mortal  remains  of  JAS.  CLARKE,  founder  of  the  first  Newspaper  in  Burling 
ton,  Member  of  the  first  Constitutional  Convention,  Secretary  and  Governor  of  the  Territo 
ry  of  Iowa.  Born  July  5,  1812 ;  died  July  28,  1850 

My  Husband  and  our  Father,  ABNER  LEONARD,  minister  of  the  Gospel,  born  Dec.  13, 1787, 
in  Washington  Co.,  Pa.;  died  Oct.  30, 1856. 

Now  with  my  Savior,  Brother,  Friend, 
A  blest  Eternity  I'll  spend, 
Triumphant  in  his  grace. 


IOWA. 


527 


In  memory  of  REV.  HORACE  HUTCHIXSON,  late  Pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church  of 
Burlington.  He  was  born  at  Button,  Mass.,  Aug.  10,  1817.  Graduated  at  Amherst  College 
1839,  and  at  Andover  Theological  Seminary  in  1843.  He  died  March  7,  1846. 


Sacred  to  the  memory  of  REV.  SAMUEL  PAYNE,  Missionary,  native  of  New  Jersey,  who 
departed  this  life,  Jan.  8,  1845,  aged  38  years,  6  mo.  and  17  days.  Blessed  are  the 'dead 
which  die  in  the  Lord  from  henceforth :  yea  saith  the  spirit,  that  they  may  rest  from  their 
labors  ;  and  their  works  do  follow  them.  Rev.  xiv,  13. 

In  memory  of  REV.  THOMAS  SCHULTZ,  German  Missionary  of  the  Methodist  Church  ;  born 
July  11, 1821 ;  died  March  18, 1848.  *Christus  ist  mein  Leben  und  sterben  ist  mein  Gewin. 

In  memory  of  REV.  WILLIAM  HEMMINGHAUS,  German  Missionary  of  the  M.E.  Church  ; 
born  Jan.  26,  1808;  died  Jan.  24,  1848. 

Wo  ich  bin  da  soil  mein,  diener  auch  sein. 
Where  I  am,  there  shall  be  my  servant.     Jan.  12,  1826. 


East  view  of  Keokuk. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  Keokuk,  as  seen  from  the  bights  above  the  Ferry  landing,  on  the 
Illinois  side  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Keokuk,  Fort  Des  Moines  and  Minnesota  Railroad  is  on  the  extreme 
left ;  the  Keokuk,  Mount  Pleasant  and  Muscatine  Railroad  on  the  right. 

KEOKUK,  and  semi-capital  of  Lee  county,  is  a  short  distance  above 
the  confluence  of  the  Des  Moines  with  the  Mississippi,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Mississippi,  200  miles  above  St.  Louis,  1,400  above  New  Orleans,  and 
about  150  from  Des  Moines,  the  capital.  It  is  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
state,  at  the  foot  of  the  "Lower  Rapids,"  and  being  the  only  city  of  Iowa 
having  uninterrupted  communication  with  all  the  great  tributaries  of  the 
"Father  of  Waters,"  it  has  not  inaptly  been  called  the  "Gate  City"  of  Iowa. 
The  site  of  Keokuk  is  remarkably  fine.  It  covers  the  top  and  slopes  of  a 
large  bluff,  partially  around  which  the  Mississippi  bends  with  a  graceful 
curve,  commanding  a  fine  prospect  to  the  south  and  north.  The  city  stands 


528  IOWA- 

upon  an  inexhaustible  quarry  of  limestone  rock,  forming  ample  material  for 
buildings.  A  portion  of  the  great  water  power  at  this  point  is  used  in 
various  manufactories,  flouring  mills,  founderies,  etc.  The  Mississippi,  up 
ward  from  this  place,  flows  over  a  rocky  bed  of  limestone,  called  the  Rapids, 
12  miles  in  extent,  falling,  in  that  distance,  24J  feet,  making  it  difficult  for 
the  larger  class  of  steamboats  to  pass.  The  city  contains  several  splendid 
public  buildings,  the  medical  department  of  the  State  University,  hospital, 
some  eight  or  nine  churches,  and  about  13,000  inhabitants. 

The  plat  of  the  village  of  Keokuk  was  laid  out  in  the  spring  of  1837,  and 
in  the  ensuing  June  a  public  sale  of  town  lots  was  held,  and  attended  by  a 
very  large  crowd.  One  boat  was  chartered  in  St.  Louis,  and  numbers  came 
up  on  other  boats.  Only  two  or  three  lots,  the  south-west  corner  of  Main- 
street  and  the  levee,  and  one  or  two  others  lying  contiguous,  were  sold.  The 
corner  lot  went  for  $1,500,  and  a  New  York  company  still  hold  the  deed  of 
trust  on  it  to  secure  the  payment. 

In  1840,  the  main  portion  of  Keokuk  was  a  dense  forest,  and  where  Main- 
street  now  is,  were  thick  timber  and  underbrush.  It  was  so  swampy  and 
rough  between  Third  and  Fourth-streets,  as  to  be  rather  dangerous  riding 
on  horseback  after  a  heavy  rain.  About  a  dozen  cabins  comprised  all  the 
improvements.  In  the  spring  of  1847,  a  census  of  the  place  gave  a  popula 
tion  of  620.  Owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  the  titles,  but  little  progress 
was  made  till  1849.  From  that  time  until  the  autumn  of  1857  it  had  a 
rapid  growth. 

Keokuk  derived  its  name  from  Keokuk  (the  Wa'diful  Fox),  a  chieftain 
of  the  Sac  tribe,  distinguished  for  his  friendship  to  the  Americans  during 
the  Black  Hawk  war.  He  often  lost  his  popularity  with  his  tribe  by  his 
efforts  to  keep  them  at  peace  with  the  United  States,  and  nothing  but  his 
powerful  eloquence  and  tact  sustained  him.  He  was  once  deposed  by  his 
tribe,  and  a  young  chief  elected  in  his  place.  He,  however,  soon  attained 
his  former  position.  Keokuk  was  born  about  the  year  1780.  He  was  not 
a  hereditary  chief,  but  raised  himself  to  that  dignity  by  the  force  of  talent 
and  enterprise.  He  was  a  man  of  extraordinary  eloquence;  fertile  in  re 
sources  on  the  field  of  battle;  possessed  of  desperate  bravery;  and  never  at 
a  loss  in  any  emergency.  He  had  six  wives,  was  fond  of  display,  and  on  his 
visits  of  state  to  other  tribes,  moved,  it  is  supposed,  in  more  savage  mag 
nificence  than  any  other  chief  on  the  continent.  He  was  a  noble  looking 
man,  about  five  feet  ten  inches  in  hight,  portly,  and  over  200  pounds  in 
weight.  He  had  an  eagle  eye,  a  dignified  bearing,  and  a  manly,  intelligent 
expression  of  countenance,  and  always  painted  and  dressed  in  the  Indian 
costume.  He  supplanted  Black  Hawk  as  chieftain  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes. 
He  died  in  Missouri  a  few  years  since,  and  was  succeeded  in  the  chieftain 
ship  by  his  son. 

The  Des  Moines  River,  which  terminates  at  Keokuk,  is  one  of  the  noblest 
of  streams.  Keokuk  is  the  principal  port  of  its  valley,  in  which  half  the 
population  and  agricultural  wealth  of  the  state  are  concentrated.  On  the 
banks  of  the  Des  Moines  stood  the  village  of  the  celebrated  chief  Black 
HawJc,  who  there  breathed  his  last,  Oct.  3,  1840.  He  was  buried  near  the 
banks  of  the  river,  in  a  sitting  posture,  as  is  customary  with  his  tribe.  His 
hands  grasped  his  cane,  and  his  body  was  surrounded  by  stakes,  which  united 
at  the  top. 

Iowa  is  noted  for  the  extent  and  magnificence  of  her  prairies.  These  are 
of  great  advantago  to  the  rapid  and  easy  settlement  of  a  country.  When, 


IOWA 


529 


however,  too  extensive,  without  a  sufficiency  of  timber,  a  prairie  country  has 
some  serious  drawbacks.  Fortunately,  in  Iowa,  the  immense  beds  of  coal 
partly  supply  the  deficiency  in  fuel,  and  the  prairie  country  there  is  remark 
ably  healthy.  It  is  generally  rolling,  often  even  hilly,  the  streams  mostly 


Prairie  Scenery. 

fresh  running  water,  with  sandy  or  gravelly  beds,  which  condition  prevents 
the  origin  of  miasma,  the  great  scourge  of  flat,  prairie  districts,  where  slug 
gish  streams,  winding  their  snaky  shaped  course  through  rich  alluvial  soils, 
generate  disease  and  death  from  their  stagnant  waters,  green  and  odious  with 
the  slime  of  a  decaying  vegetation.  The  prairie  farms  of  Iowa,  large,  smooth 
and  unbroken  by  stump  or  other  obstruction,  afford  an  excellent  field  for  the 
introduction  of  mowing  machines  and  other  improved  implements  of  agri 
culture. 

The  wonderful  fertility  of  the  prairies  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  we  have 
a  soil  "  which  for  thousands  of  years  has  been  bearing  annual  crops  of  grass,  the 
a*hos  or  decayed  stems  of  which  have  been  all  that  time  adding  to  the  original  for- 

34 


530  IOWA. 

tilitj  of  the  soil.  So  long  back  as  we  have  any  knowledge  of  the  country, -it  had 
been  the  custom  of  the  Indians  to  set  fire  to  the  prairie  grass  in  autumn,  after  frost 
set  in,  the  fire  spreading  with  wonderful  rapidity,  covering  vast  districts  of  coun 
try,  and  filling  trie  atmosphere  for  weeks  with  smoke.  In  the  course  of  ages  a  soil 
somewhat  resembling  an  ash-heap  must  have  been  thus  gradually  created,  and  it 
is  no  wonder  that  it  should  be  declared  to  be  inexhaustible  in  fertility.  In  Europe 
such  tracts  of  fertile  country  as  the  plain  of  Lombardy  are  known  to  have  yielded 
crops  for  more  than  2,000  years  without  intermission,  and  yet  no  one  says  that  the 
soil  is  exhausted.  Here  we  have  a  tract  naturally  as  rich,  and  with  the  addition 
of  its  own  crops  rotting  upon  its  surface,  and  adding  to  its  stores  of  fertility  all 
that  time.  It  need  occasion  no  surprise  therefore,  to  be  told  of  twenty  or  thirty 
crops  of  Indian  corn  being  taken  in  succession  from  the  same  land,  without  ma 
nure,  every  crop,  good  or  better,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  season." 

A  distinguished  English  chemist  analyzed  some  of  the  prairie  soils  of  the  west. 
l>  His  analysis,  which  was  of  the  most  scrutinizing  character,  bears  out  completely 
the  high  character  for  fertility  which  practice  and  experience  had  already  proved 
these  soils  to  possess.  The  most  noticeable  feature  in  the  analysis  is  the  very  large 
quantity  of  nitrogen  which  each  of  the  soils  contains,  nearly  twice  as  much  as  the 
most  fertile  soils  of  Britain.  In  each  case,  taking  the  soil  at  an  average  depth  of 
ten  inches,  an  acre  of  these  prairies  will  contain  upward  of  three  tuns  of  nitrogen, 
and  as  a  heavy  crop  of  wheat  with  its  straw  contains  about  fifty-two  pounds' of  ni 
trogen,  there  is  thus  a  natural  store  of  ammonia  in  this  soil  sufficient  for  more 
than  a  hundred  wheat  crops.  In  Dr.  Voelcker's  words,  '  It  is  this  large  amount  of 
nitrogen,  and  the  beautiful  state  of  division,  that  impart  a  peculiar  character  to 
these  soils,  and  distinguish  them  so  favorably.  They  are  soils  upon  which  I 
imagine  flax  could  be  grown  in  perfection,  supposing  the  climate  to  be  otherwise 
favorable.  I  have  never  before  analyzed  soils  which  contained  so  much  nitrogen, 
nor  do  I  find  any  record  of  soils  richer  in  nitrogen  than  these.'  " 

"The  novelty  of  the  prairie  country  is  striking,  and  never  fails  to  cause  an  ex 
clamation  of  surprise  from  those  who  have  lived  amid  the  forests  of  Ohio  -and 
Kentucky,  or  along  the  wooded  shores  of  the  Atlantic,  or  in  sight  of  the  rocky  bar 
riers  of  the  Allegheny  ridge.  The  extent  of  the  prospect  is  exhilarating.  The 
outline  of  the  landscape  is  undulating  and  graceful.  The  verdure  and  the  flowers 
are  beautiful;  and  the  absence  of  shade,  and  consequent  appearance  of  a  profu 
sion  of  light,  produces  a  gayety  which  animates  every  beholder. 

These  plains,  although  preserving  a  general  level  in  respect  to  the  whole  coun 
try,  are  yet,  in  themselves,  not  flat,  but  exhibit  a  gracefully  waving  surface,  swell 
ing  and  sinking  with  easy,  graceful  slopes,  and  full,  rounded  outlines,  equally  avoid 
ing  the  unmeaning  horizontal  surface,  and  the  interruption  of  abrupt  or  angular 
elevations. 

The | attraction  of  the  prairie  consists  in  its  extent,  its  carpet  of  verdure  and 
flowers,  its  undulating  surface,  its  groves,  and  the  fringe  of  timber  by  which  it  is 
surrounded.  Of  all  these,  the  latter  is  the  most  expressive  feature.  It  is  that 
which  gives  character  to  the  landscape,  which  imparts  the  shape,  and  marks  the 
boundary  of  the  plain.  If  the  prairie  be  small,  its  greatest  beauty  consists  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  surrounding  margin  of  woodland,  which  resembles  the  shore  of  a 
lake  indented  with  deep  vistas,  like  bays  and  inlets,  and  throwing  out  long  points, 
like  capes  and  headlands. 

In  the  spring  of  the  year,  when  the  young  grass  has  just  covered  the  ground 
with  a  carpet  of  delicate  green,  and  especially  if  the  sun  is  rising  from  behind  a 
distant  swell  of  the  plain  and  glittering  upon  the  dewdrops,  no  scene  can  be  more 
lovely  to  the  eje.  The  groves^  or  clusters  of  timber,  are  particularly  attractive  at 
this  season  of"  the  year.  The  rich  undergrowth  is  in  full  bloom.  The  rosewood, 
dogwood,  crab-apple,  wild  plum,  the  cherry^  and  the  wild  rose  are  all  abundant,  and 
in  many  portions  of  the  state  the  grape-vine  abounds.  The  variety  of  wild  fruit 
and  flowering  shrubs  is  so  great,  and  such  the  profusion  of  the  blossoms  with  which 
they  are  bowed  down,  that  the  eye  is  regaled  almost  to  satiety. 

The  gayety  of  the  prairie,  its  embellishments,  and  the  absence  of  the  gloom  and 
savage  wildness  of  the  forest,  all  contribute  to  dispel  the  feeling  of  loneliness  which 
usually  creeps  over  the  mind  of  the  solitary  traveler  in  the  wilderness.  Though 


531 

he  may  not  see  a  house  or  a  human  being,  and  is  conscious  that  he  is  far  from  the 
habitations  of  men,  the  traveler  upon  the  prairie  can  scarcely  divest  himself  of  tho 
idea  that  he  is  traveling  through  scenes  embellished  by  the  hand  of  art.  The 
flowers,  so  fragile,  so  delicate,  and  so  ornamental,  seem  to  have  been  tastefully  dis 
posed  to  adorn  the  scene. 

In  the  summer,  the  prairie  is  covered  with  long,  coarse  grass,  which  soon  assumes 
a  golden  hue,  and  waves  in  the  wind  like  a  fully  ripe  harvest.  The  prairie-grass 
never  attains  its  highest  growth  in  the  richest  soil;  out  in  low,  wet,  or  marshy  land, 
where  the  substratum  of  clay  lies  near  the  surface,  the  center  or  main  stem  of  the 
grass — that  which  bears  the  seed — shoots  up  to  the  hight  of  eight  and  ten  feet, 
throwing  out  long,  coarse  leaves  or  blades.  But  on  the  rich,  undulating  prairies, 
the  grass  is  finer,  with  less  of  stalk  and  a  greater  profusion  of  leaves.  The  roots 
spread  and  interweave,  forming  a  compact,  even  sod,  and  the  blades  expand  into  a 
close,  thick  grass,  which  is  seldom  more  than  eighteen  inches  high,  until  late  in 
the  season,  when  the  seed-bearing  stem  shoots  up.  The  first  coat  is  mingled  with 
(small  flowers — the  violet,  the  bloom  of  the  wild  strawberry,  and  various  others,  of 
the  most  minute  and  delicate  texture.  As  the  grass  increases  in  hight,  these 
smaller  flowers  disappear,  and  others,  taller  and  more  gaudy,  display  their  brilliant 
colors  upon  the  green  surface;  and  still  later,  a  larger  and  coarser  succession  arises 
with  the  rising  tide  of  verdure.  It  is  impossible  to  conceive  a  more  infinite  diversity, 
or  a  richer  profusion  of  hues,  '  from  grave  to  gay,'  than  graces  the  beautiful  carpet 
of  green  throughout  the  entire  season  of  summer." 

"The  autumnal  months,  in  Iowa,  are  almost  invariably  clear,  warm,  and  dry. 
The  immense  mass  of  vegetation  with  which  this  fertile  prairie  soil  loads  itself 
during  the  summer  is  suddenly  withered,  and  the  whole  earth  is  covered  with  com 
bustible  materials.  This  is  especially  true  of  those  portions  where  grass  grows 
tVom  two  to  ten  feet  high,  and  is  exposed  to  sun  and  wind,  becoming  thoroughly 
dried.  A  single  spark  of  fire,  falling  upon  the  prairie  at  such  a  time,  instantly 
kindles  a  blaze  that  spreads  on  every  side,  and  continues  its  destructive  course  as 
long  as  it  finds  fuel.  These  fires  sweep  along  with  great  power  and  rapidity,  and 
frequently  extend  across  a  wide  prairie  and  advance  in  a  long  line.  No  sight  can 
be  more  sublime  than  a  stream  of  fire,  beheld  at  night,  several  miles  in  breadth, 
advancing  across  the  plains,  leaving  behind  it  a  background  of  dense  black  smoke, 
throwing  before  it  a  vivid  glare,  which  lights- up  the  whole  landscape  for  miles 
with  the  brilliancy  of  noonday.  The  progress  of  the  fire  is  so  slow,  and  the  heat 
so  intense,  that  every  combustible  in  its  course  is  consumed.  The  roots  of  the 
prairie-grass,  and  several  species  of  flowers,  however,  by  some  peculiar  adaptation 
of  nature,  are  spared." 

The  winters  on  the  prairie  are  often  terrible.  Exposed  to  the  full  sweep  of  the 
icy  winds  that  come  rushing  down  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  without  a  single 
obstruction,  the  unlucky  traveler  that  is  caught,  unprotected  by'sufficient  clothing, 
is  in  imminent  danger  of  perishing  before  the  icy  blast.  December  and  January 
of  the  winter  of  1856-7,  were  unprecedentedly  stormy  and  cold  in  western  Iowa. 
A  writer  for  one  of  the  public  prints,  .who  passed  that  winter  on  the  western  fron 
tier  of  this  state,  gives  this  vivid  picture  of  the  sufferings  of  the  frontier  settlers, 
his  communication  being  dated  at  "Jefferson's  Grove,  fifty  miles  from  a  postoffice." 

"Once  the  mercury  has  been  30  deg.  below  zero,  twice  24  deg.,  several  times  16 
deg.,  and  more  than  seven  eighths  of  the  time  at  some  point  below  zero.  Only  two 
days  in  the  whole  two  months  has  it  been  above  the  freezing  point. 

We  have  had  four  fierce  snow  storms,  in  which  one  could  not  see  an  object  four 
rods  distant,  and  I  doubt  if  such  storms  can  be  excelled  in  fury  in  any  of  the  hy 
perborean  regions.  Everybody  was  compelled  to  keep  within  doors ;  cattle  were 
driven  before  the  driving  snow  until  they  found  refuge  in  the  groves ;  and  most  of 
the  houses,  within  doors,  were  thoroughly  sifted  with  snow.  But  I  will  relate  a 
few  instances  of  frontier  hardships. 

Forty  miles  above  here,  at  the  very  margin  of  the  settlement,  a  family  was  caught 
by  the  first  snow  storm,  almost  without  firewood  and  food.  In  the  morning  the 
husband  made  a  fire,  and  leaving  to  seek  for  assistance  from  his  nearest  neighbors, 
distant  six  miles,  directed  his  family  to  make  one  more  fire,  and  then  retire  to  bed, 
and  there  remain  until  he  returned ;  they  did  so.  After  excessive  hardships,  ho 


532 


IOWA. 


returned  on  the  second  day,  with  some  friends,  and  conveyed  his  wife  and  little 
children,  on  hand-sleds  through  the  deep  snow,  to  their  kind  neighbors. 

Last  summer  five  families  ventured  across  a  fifty  mile  prairie,  uninhabited,  of 
course,  and  commenced  making  farms  on  a  small  stream,  very  sparcely  timbered, 
called  Boyer  River.  The  early  frost  nipped  their  late  corn,  and  left  them  with 
out  food.  Seven  of  the  men  of  this  little  detached  settlement,  started  in  the 
Fall  for  Fort  Des  Moines,  distant  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  to  procure  provis 
ions  and  other  necessaries.  When  on  their  return,  fifty  miles  from  Fort  Des 
Moines,  on  the  North  Koon  River,  they  were  overtaken  by  the  severe  snow-storm 
that  commenced  on  the  first  day  of  December  and  raged  for  forty  eight  hours. 
They  then  halted,  constructed  sleds,  and  started  for  their  families,  one  hundred 
miles  distant,  across  a  trackless  prairie.  They  suffered  terribly,  and  one  of  them 
perished  with  the  cold." 


State  Capitol,  Des  Moines. 

Des  Moines,  which  became  in  1855  the  capital  of  Iowa,  is  at  the  head  of 
steamboat  navigation  on  Des  Moines  River,  in  the  geographical  center  of  the 
state,  about  170  miles  west  of  Davenport,  and  140  eastward  of  Council  Bluffs. 
The  line  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Railroad  passes  through  the  city, 
as  also  will  several  others  in  contemplation.  The  city  is  situated  at  the  con 
fluence  of  Raccoon  River  with  the  Des  Moines,  the  two  streams  uniting  near 
the  corporation  limits.  The  scenery  at  this  point  is  beautiful :  a  smooth  val 
ley,  rising  on  all  sides,  by  successive  benches,  back  to  the  gently  sloping 
hills,  which  finally  attain  a  hight  of  about  200  feet. 

This  spot  was  the  council  ground  of  the  Indians.  It  was  afterward  the 
site  of  Fort  Des  Moines,  selected  by  the  officers  of  the  U.  8.  army,  on  which 
barracks  and  defenses  were  erected.  Most  of  the  town  is  laid  out  with  wide 
streets.  On  the  elevations  are  beautiful  building  sites,  commanding  views 
Of  all  the  central  town,  of  both  rivers,  and  of  the  faces  of  most  of  the  other 
hills,  with  their  residences.  On  the  summit  of  one  of  the  hills  is  the  pres 
ent  state  house,  and  the  square  set  apart  for  the  permanent  capitol.  Some 
6  or  7  churches  are  already  erected,  and  3  newspapers  are  printed.  Popu 
lation  about  5,000. 


IOWA.  533 

MUSCATINE,  the  county  seat  of  Muscatine  county,  is  situated  100  miles 
above  Keokuk,  and  32  below  Davenport.  Commencing  at  the  Upper  Rapids, 
the  Mississippi  runs  in  a  westerly  direction  until  it  strikes  a  series  of  rocky 
bluffs,  by  which  its  course  is  turned  due  south.  At  this  bend,  and  on  the 
Burnmit  of  the  bluffs,  is  situated  the  city  of  Muscatine,  which  is  regularly 


Western  view  of  Muscatine. 

laid  out,  with  fine,  wide  streets,  having  several  elegant  buildings.  It  is  a 
shipping  point  for  a  very  great  amount  of  produce  raised  in  the  adjoining 
counties.  When  the  various  railroads  are  completed  which  are  to  run  in 
various  directions  from  this  point,  Muscatine  will  have  added  to  her  natural 
advantages  fine  facilities  for  communication  with  every  part  of  the  country. 
Muscatine  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in  1836,  previous  to  which  time 
it  was  an  Indian  trading  post,  known  by  the  name  of  Manatheka.  After 
ward  it  was  called  Bloomington.  Population  in  1860,  5,324. 

Council  Blufs  City,  the  county  seat  of  Pottawatomie  county,  is  near  the 
geographical  center  of  the  United  States,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Missouri 
River,  about  140  miles  westward  of  Des  Moines,  the  capital  of  the  state, 
nearly  opposite  Omaha  City,  the  capital  of  Nebraska,  about  300  miles  above 
Leavenworth  City,  and  685  above  St.  Louis.  It  is  built  on  a  beautiful  ex 
tended  plain.  It  has  a  number  of  fine  stores,  and  many  elegant  private 
buildings.  This  is  a  flourishing  place,  and  here  a  portion  of  the  emigrants 
for  the  far  west  procure  their  oatfits.  It  was  for  a  long  time  an  important 
point  in  overland  travel  to  California,  being  the  last  civilized  settlement  be 
fore  entering  the  Indian  country.  Four  important  railroads  from  the  east 
are  projected  directly  to  this  place,  some  of  which  are  fast  progressing  to 
completion.  The  first  one  finished  will  be  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri, 
which,  commencing  at  Davenport,  already  extends  to  beyond  Iowa  City. 
Population  about  5,000. 

A  gentleman,  who  was  at  Council  Bluffs  in  1860,  gives  these  valuable 
items  upon  the  history  of  the  town,  and  the  condition  and  resources  of  the 
country: 

The  growth  of  Council  Bluffs  has  been  rapid  within  the  last  six  years,  and  it 
still  retains,  as  it  is  likely  to  retain,  the  position  of  the  most  important  city  of 
western  Iowa,  This  point  was  formerly  known  as  Kanesville,  and  was  for  about 


534 

three  years — from  1846  to  1849 — the  residence  of  the  Mormon  hosts  oi  Brigham 
Young,  in  his  celebrated  march  to  the  great  Salt  Lake  valley.  After  the  Mormons 
were  driven  from  Nauvoo,  they  determined  to  build  up  a  kingdom  to  themselves  in 
the  far  west.  They  departed,  but  upon  reaching  the  borders  of  the  great  plains 
they  found  they  had  not  the  number  of  cattle  and  horses,  nor  the  provisions  that 
•were  indispensable  for  so  long  and  so  distant  a  journey;  so  they  selected  a  roman 
tic  and  wooded  valley,  adjoining  the  great  bottoms  of  the  Missouri,  for  their  tem 
porary  home.  Timber  was  plenty,  and  with  it  they  soon  constructed  log  houses 
for  fifteen  thousand  people.  They  inclosed  several  hundred  acres  of  the  rich  and 
easily  cultivated  Missouri  bottoms,  and  planted  them  with  corn.  Their  cattle,  fed 
on  these  fine  pastures,  increased  in  numbers  rapidly.  They  raised  large  amounts 
of  corn — for  these  fanatics  are  hard  working,  industrious  men  and  women.  In 
three  years  they  found  themselves  so  prosperous  that  they  resumed  their  journey, 
and  in  due  time  found  themselves  at  their  destination  in  the  ^Hoty  Valley"  at  the 
Great  Salt  Lake. 

As  the  Mormons  left,  other  settlers  came  in.  The  name  was  changed  to  Council 
Bluffs.  This  cognomen  had  been  given  by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  a  long  time  before, 
to  a  point  on  the  Missouri,  several  miles  above  the  present  town.  It  had  become 
a  historical  name,  and  it  was  wise  in  the  new-comers  to  appropriate  it  to  their  use. 
So  much  for  the  early  history  of  this  place.  The  Mormon  town  was  built  in  a  very 
pleasant  valley,  that  opens  upon  the  great  Missouri  bottom  from  the  north-east.  It 
\A  four  miles  from  the  base  of  the  hills,  which  are  several  hundred  feet  high,  and 
very  abrupt,  to  the  river.  The  log  houses  left  by  the  Mormons  were  used  by  the 
earlv  settlers,  and  many  of  them  are  yet  standing. 

But  it  soon  became  manifest  that  the  business  part  of  the  future  city  must  be  on 
the  great  plain  or  bottom,  and  out  of  the  bluffs.  And  so  the  result  has  shown. 
The  best  part  of  the  city  is  on  the  plain,  though  the  finest  places  for  residences  are 
en  the  delightful  slopes  and  hillsides  of  the  valleys,  which  now  constitute  the  upper 
town. 

The  view  from  the  high  bluffs  back  of  the  city  is  very  commanding  and  beauti 
ful.  From  the  top  of  one  of  these  hills  one  can  see  six  rising  cities  m  the  far  dis 
tance — Omaha,  Saratoga,  Florence,  Bellevue,  St.  Marys,  and  Pacific  City.  f  At  the 
loot  of  these  bluffs  the  Missouri  bottom  extends  four  miles  to  the  west,  to  Omaha, 
and  to  the  south  and  north  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  bottoms  are  from  four 
to  ten  miles  in  width,  and  are  mostly  dry  and  most  fertile  lands.  Strips  of  timber 
abound.  The  bluffs  facing  the  bottom  are  generally  naked,  and  very  abrupt  The 
eastern  man  will  again  and  again  wonder  how  the  earth  can  be  made  to  remain  in 
such  fantastic  and  sharply  pointed  shapes  for  centuries,  as  he  finds  them  here. 
Back  of  the  first  range  of  bluffs,  the  country  is  covered  with  timber  for  some  miles, 
when  the  rolling  and  open  prairie  becomes  the  leading  feature  for  hundreds  of 
miles,  and  indeed  across  the  state  of  Iowa  to  the  Mississippi  River. 

Council  Bluffs  claims  a  population  of  5,000,  but  the  usual  deduction  must  be 
made.  It  has  passed  through  the  usual  process  of  rapid  and  extended  inflation, 
and  consequent  collapse  and  almost  suspension  of  vitality.  The  paper  part  of  the 
city  embraces  territory  enough  for  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  people.  The  exten 
sive  and  rich  bottoms,  instead  of  being  cultivated  as  farms,  are  all  staked  off  into 
city  lots;  and  in  years  past,  large  numbers  of  them  were  sold  to  speculators.  So 
crazv  did  these  people  become,  that  one  man  bought  a  quarter  section  of  this  bot 
tom  land,  two  miles  from  the  present  town,  and  gave  his  notes  for  sixty  thousand 
dollars  for  the  same.  He  collapsed,  of  course,  as  the  crash  of  1857  brought  his 
air  castle  to  the  ground;  and  he  can  not  now  sell  his  land  for  twenty  dollars  per 
acre.  Here  is  another  large  four  story  monument  of  folly  in  the  shape  of  a  brick 
hotel,  some  half  a  mile  out  from  the  present  business  part  of  the  city.  A  man  by 
the  name  of  Andrews  had  sold  out  shares  in  Florence  for  large  sums.  He  had 
realized  about  thirty  thousand  dollars  in  hard  cash.  He  became  giddy,  bought  a 
tract  adjoining  Council  Bluffs,  laid  it  off  into  city  lots;  and,  to  show  his  faith  and 
to  sell  his  lots,  he  erected  this  large  and  costly  hotel.  But  it  was  never  completed. 
The  crash  also  caught  him  unprepared,  and  he  went  under,  with  thousands  of 
others.  His  hotel  is  roofed,  but  not  finished;  and  it  looks  the  wreck  it  is,  of  th? 
vast  inflation  which  culminated  and  exploded  three  years  ago. 


IOWA. 


535 


Still  there  are  many  evidences  of  substantial  prosperity  in  Council  Bluffs.  Sev 
eral  brick  blocks  of  stores  would  do  credit  to  older  towns,  and  they  are  well  filled 
with  stocks  of  goods,  and  held  by  substantial,  intelligent  business  men.  The  bus 
iness  portion  is  mainly  on  the  plain,  and  is  extending  from  the  base  of  the  blurts 
toward  the  river.  The  present  steamboat  landing  is  about  four  miles  from  the 
town,  and  directly  south  of  it.  Council  Blurt's  has  the  Kanesville  land  office, 
where  a  large  portion  of  the  lands  of  western  Iowa  has  been  sold. 


IOWA  CITY,  the  first  capital  of  the  state  of  Iowa,  is  on  the  left  bank  of 
Iowa  River,  in  Johnson  county,  55  miles  from  Davenport,  by  the  Mississippi 

and  Missouri  Railroad, 
in  the  midst  of  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and 
thriving  of  agricultural 
regions.  Population 
in  1860,  5,214. 

Annexed  we  present 
a  sketch  from  a  corres 
pondent,  giving  a  his 
tory  of  the  city  and  of 
the  University  situated 
in  it,  which  gives  pro 
mise  of  great  useful 
ness  to  tlie  future  of 
Iowa: 

In  1838,  Congress  pass 
ed  an  act  to  divide  the 
Territory  of  Wisconsin, 
and  form  the  Territory 
of  Iowa  out  of  that  part 
which  lay  to  the  west  of 
the  Mississippi  River. 
The  governor  of  the  new 
territory  under  the  or 
ganic  act,  fixed  the  seat 
of  government  at  Bur 
lington.  On  the  21st  of 
January  following,  the 
territorial  legislature  ap 
pointed  commissioners  to 
locate  the  seat  of  government  and  superintend  the  erection  of  public  buildings. 
These  commissioners  selected  the  site  now  occupied  by  Iowa  City,  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Iowa  River,  about  50  miles  west  of  the  Mississippi  River.  Congress  had 
appropriated  $20,000  for  the  erection  of  the  capitol,  and  subsequently  granted  the 
section  of  land  on  which  the  capitol  was  to  be  erected.  The  corner  stone  of  the 
building  was  laid  on  the  4th  of  July,  1839.  The  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  lots  on 
the  section  granted  by  congress,  defrayed  the  main  part  of  the  expense  of  the 
erection.  The  first  session  of  the  legislature  was  held  in  Iowa  City,  in  December, 
1841,  in  a  temporary  building  the  capitol  not  being  yet  finished.  The  building  was 
first  occupied  by  the  legislature  in  1844. 

The  location  of  the  capital  soon  collected  a  considerable  population  in  Iowa 
City.  When  the  city  was  first  laid  out,  there  was  but  one  log  cabin  on  the  ground. 
At  the  end  of  a  single  year,  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  seven  hundred,  and  it 
continued  steadily  to  increase.  In  1852,  the  population  was  3,500.  The  opening 
of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Railroad,  from  Davenport  as  far  as  Iowa  City,  in 
1854,  and  the  rush  of  emigration  into  the  state,  gave  a  new  impetus  to  the  city. 


STATE  UNIVERSITY',  IOWA  CITY. 
The  large  building  on  the  right  was  originally  the  first  State  Capitol. 


IOWA. 

In  1857  the  population  had  increased  to  8,000,  and  all  kinds  of  business  were  ex 
ceedingly  active  and  profitable.  But  the  monetary  crisis  of  1857  put  a  stop  to  its 
prosperity,  and  since  that  time  has  diminished  rather  than  increased,  and  in  1860 
was  only  about  7,000.  In  1856,  the  capital  was  removed  from  Iowa. City  to  Dos 
Moines,  and  permanently  fixed  there  by  the  new  constitution  of  the  state,  adopted 
in  January.  1860. 

When  the  seat  of  government  was  removed  to  Des  Moines,  the  state  house  in 
Iowa  City  was  given  by  the  legislature  to  the  State  University,  together  with  the 
10  acres  of  land  on  which  it  stands.  The  State  University  has  for  its  foundation 
~'2  sections  of  land,  granted  by  congress  for  the  endowment  of  a  university.  In 
1847,  the  state  legislature  passed  a  law  organizing  the  University,  and  appointing 
trustees  to  manage  its  concerns,  put  the  institution  did  not  go  into  operation  till 
1855.  At  that  time  a  chancellor  and  several  professors  were  appointed,  and  the 
University  was  opened  in  a  building  hired  by  the  trustees  for  that  purpose.  The 
year  following  a  part  of  the  state  house  was  occupied  by  the  preparatory  depart 
ment,  and  as  lecture  rooms  for  the  professors.  The  building,  however,  was  in  a 
bad  condition,  and  required  fitting  up  in  order  to  suit  the  purposes  of  an  institu 
tion  of  learning.  The  city  was  full  of  people,  and  accommodations  for  students 
could  not  be  easily  procured,  and  in  1857,  the  pecuniary  embarrassments  of  the 
country  preventing  the  collection  of  the  interest  on  the  funds,  the  trustees  saw  fit 
to  close  the  University  for  a  time — this  took  place  in  the  summer  of  1858.  By  the 
new  constitution  of  the  state,  adopted  in  1857,  a  board  of  education  was  created, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  take  the  entire  charge  of  the  educational  institutions  of  the 
state.  This  board  at  their  first  meeting,  in  December,  1858,  passed  a  law  reorgan 
izing  the  University,  appointing  a  new  board  of  trustees,  with  the  understanding 
that  the  institution  should  be  reopened  as  early  as  practicable.  In  October,  1859, 
they  appointed  the  Rev  Silas  Totten,  1).D.,L.L  D.,  president  of  the  University,  and 
in  June  following,  proceeded  to  fill  the  professorships  of  mathematics,  languages, 
philosophy  and  chemistry,  and  natural  history.  On  the  19th  of  October,  the  Uni 
versity  was  reopened  under  the  new  organization. 

In  the  session  of  1858,  the  legislature  granted  $13,000  to  the  University,  for  re 
pairs  on  the  state  house,  and  for  the  erection  of  another  building  for  the  residence 
of  students.  A  new  roof  was  put  upon  the  state  house,  and  the  other  building  be 
gun  and  the  exterior  completed. 

A  further  grant  of  $10,000  was  made  in  1860,  $5,000  to  be  expended  on  the  old 
building  and  in  the  purchase  of  philosophical  and  chemical  apparatus,  and  the 
remainder  upon  the  new  building.  The  repairs  and  alterations  of  the  state  house 
have  been  completed,  and  it  is  now  both  an  elegant  and  commodious  building  for 
the  purposes  of  a  university.  It  is  built  of  cream  colored  limestone,  and  is  120 
feet  long  by  60  broad,  and  two  stories  high,  with  a  basement.  The  walls  are  of 
massive  cut  stone,  and  the  rooms  are  spacious  and  lofty.  The  original  cost  of  the 
building  was  $160,000.  It  contains  the  chapel,  library,  cabinet,  five  lecture  rooms, 
a  room  occupied  by  the  State  Historical  Society,  and  a  spacious  entrance  hall,  sur 
mounted  by  a  dome.  The  other  building  is  of  pressed  brick,  105  feet  by  45,  three 
stories  high,  and  when  finished  will  accommodate  about  100  students.  The  build 
ings  are  situated  on  a  ridge  of  land,  the  highest  in  the  city,  in  the  middle  of  a 
park  of  (ten  acres,  which  contains  many  fine  old  oak  trees  in  a  very  flourishing  con 
dition.  The  site  is  beautiful,  overlooking  the  valley  of  the  Iowa  River  on  the  west 
and  the  city  on  the  east,  while  from  the  top  of  the  dome  may  be  seen  a  vast  ex 
tent  of  -rolling  country,  prairie  and  woodland,  spread  out  on  every  side. 

The  University  has  now  all  the  requisites  for  a  first  class  institution  of  learning. 
It  has  a  choice  library  of  1,500  volumes,  quite  an  extensive  mineralogical  cabinet, 
:anfl  a  very  complete  philosophical  and  chemical  apparatus.  Provision  has  been 
made  for  the  increase  of  the  library  and  cabinet. 


Fort  Dodge,  the  county  seat  of  Webster  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
a  platform  of  prairie  land,  on  the  east  side  of  Des  Moines  River,  on  the  line 
,of  the  Dubuque  and  Pacific  Railroad.  Building  was  commenced  hejje  in 


IOWA. 


the  fall  of  1855.  Several  fine  brick  buildings  and  business-houses  have  been 
erected.  Bituminous  coal  and  iron  ore,  of  a  superior  quality,  are  found  in 
great  abundance  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

Sioux  City,  Woodbury  county,  a  new  settlement  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Big  Sioux  River,  about  230  miles  above  Council  Bluffs,  is  well  situated  on 
a  high  bank,  and  is  the  last  place  of  importance  on  the  Missouri. 

Fort  Madison,  the  county  seat  of  Lee  county,  is  a  flourishing  town.  It 
contains  the  state-prison,  and  4000  inhabitants.  A  fortification  was  built 
here  in  1808,  as  a  defense  against  the  Indians,  who  obliged  the  garrison  to 
abandon  it.  In  the  war  of  1812,  the  fort  was  twice  attacked  by  the  Indians. 
In  November,  1813,  it  was  evacuated  and  the  buildings  burnt,  as  the  con 
tractor  failed  to  furnish  the  garrison  with  provisions. 

Grinnell  is  in  Powesheik  county,  115  miles  from  Davenport,  by  the  Mis 
sissippi  and  Missouri  Railroad,  is  a  fine  town,  and  noted  as  the  seat  of  Iowa 
College. 

There  are  in  the  state  many  small,  city-like  towns,  as  :  Keosauqua,  in  Van 
Buren  co.;  Lyons,  in  Clinton  ;  Cedar  Rapids,  in  Linn  ;  Oskaloosa,  in  Ma- 
haska  ;  Cedar  Falls,  in  Black  Hawk,  and  Mount  Pleasant,  in  Henry.  At 
the  last  named  is  the  State  Insane  Asylum  and  the  Wesleyan  University 
and  about  6000  inhabitants. 

MISCELLANIES. 


UNITED  STATES  LAND  SYSTEM. 


All  the  lands  belonging  to  the  United  States,  within  the  new  states  and  territories, 
are  surveyed  and  sold  under  one  general  system,  which,  from  its  simplicity,  has 
been  of  incalculable  benefit  in  the  settlement  of  the  west.  This  admirable  system  of 
surveys  of  lands  by  townships  and  ranges,  was  first  adopted  by  Oliver  Phelps,  an  ex 
tensive  landholder  in  Genesee  county,  N.  Y.,  who  opened  aland  office  at  Canandaigua, 
in  1789.  His  was  the  model  which  was  adopted  for  surveying  all  the  new  lands  in 
the  United  States.  Col.  Jared  Mansfield,  appointed  surveyor  general  of  the  United 
States  for  the  North-western  Territory,  by  Jefferson,  in  1802,  applied  the  system 
the  government  lands,  and  greatly  improved  it.  In  brief  it  is  this: 

"Meridian  lines  are  established  and  surveyed  in  a  line  due  north  from  some 

given  point — generally  from  some  important 
water-course.  These  are  intersected  at  right 
angles  with  a  base  line.  On  the  meridians, 
the  "townships"  are  numbered  north  and 
south  from  the  base  lines;  and,  on  the  base 
lines,  "ranges"  east  or  west  of  the  meridian. 
Township  lines  are  then  run,  at  a  distance  of 
six  miles,  parallel  to  the  meridian  and  base 
lines.  Each  township  contains  an  area  of  36 
square  miles;  each  square  mile  is  termed  a 
section,  and  contains  640  acres.  The  sections 
are  numbered  from  1  to  36,  beginning  at  the 
north-east  corner  of  the  township,  as  the  an 
nexed  diagram  illustrates. 

When  surveyed,  the  lands  are  offered  for 

sale  at  public  auction,  but  can  not  be  disposed  of  at  a  less  price  than  one  dollar 
and  twenty-five  cents  per  acre.  That  portion  not  sold  at  public  auction  is  subject  to 
private  entry  at  any  time,  for  the  above  price,  payable  in  cash  at  the  time  of  entry. 


6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

18 

17 

16* 

15 

14 

13 

19 
30 

20 
29 

21 

22 

23 
~26~ 
"35" 

24 

28 

27 

25 

31 

32 

33 

34 

36 

538 


IOWA. 


Pre-emption  rights  give  the  improver  or  possessor  the  privilege  of  purchasing  at 
the  minimum  price." 

By  a  wise  provision  of  the  law  of  the  United  States,  every  16th  section  in  each 
township  is  appropriated  for  the  support  of  public  schools.  This  is  one  thirty 
sixth  of  all  the  public  lands,  and  in  a  state  of  36,000  square  miles  would  give  one 
thousand  to  this  object. 

Previous  to  the  adoption  of  this  system  of  surveying  the  public-lands,  great  con 
fusion  existed  for  the  want  of  a  general,  uniform  plan,  and  in  consequence  titles 
often  conflicted  with  each  other,  and,  in  many  cases,  several  grants  covered  the 
same  premises,  leading  very  frequently  to  litigation  most  perplexing  and  almost 
interminable.  Now,  the  precise  boundaries  of  any  piece  of  land  can  be  given  in 
a  very  few  lines;  and,  in  a  moment,  found  on  the  maps  in  the  government  land 
offices,  or,  if  the  land  has  been  sold  to  individuals,  in  the  recorder's  office  in  the 
county  in  which  it  may  be  situated,  and  where  it  is  entered  for  taxation.  The 
land  itself  can  be  easily  found  by  the  permanent  corner  posts  at  each  corner  of 
the  sections. 

The  form  of  description  of  government  lands  is  thus  shown  by  this  example : 
"  North-East  Quarter  of  Section  No.  23 ;  in  Township  No.  26  of  Range  No.  4, 
West  of  Meridian  Line,  in  White  Co.,  Ind.,  and  containing  160  acres."  It  is  usual 
to  abridge  such  descriptions,  thus:  "N.E.  £  8.  23,  T.  26,  R  4  W.,  in  White  Co., 
Ind.,  &  cont'g  160  A." 


The  state  institutions  and  principal  educational  institutions  of  Iowa  are 
located  as  follows :  the  State  University,  Iowa  City,  a-nd  its  Medical  De 
partment  at  Keokuk ;  State  Agricultural  College,  on  a  farm  in  Story 
county;  the  Blind  Asylum,  in  Vintori,  Benton  county;  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Asylum,  Iowa  City ;  Insane  Asylum,  Mount  Pleasant ;  the  Penitentiary, 
Fort  Madison ;  State  Historical  Society,  Iowa  City ;  Iowa  Orphan  Asylum, 
Farmington,  Van  Buren  county.  Among  educational  institutions  are  :  the 
Iowa  College,  at  Grinnell ;  Bishop  Lee  Female  Seminary,  at  Dubuque  j 
Cornell  College,  at  Mount  Vernon ;  Upper  Iowa  University  at  Fayette ; 
Iowa  Wesleyan  University,  at  Mount  Pleasant;  and  Indianola  Male  and 
Female  Seminary,  at  Indianola. 


The  13th  Iowa  raising  the  Union   Flap  on  the  new  (unfinished)   State 
Capitol  at  Columbia^  South  Carolina. 


THE   TIMES 

OF 

THE      REBELLION" 

IN 

IOWA. 


DURING  the  first  three  years  of  the  war,  Iowa  contributed  to  the 
army  of  the  United  States  52,240  men,  all  of  whom,  with  the  excep^ 
tion  of  one  regiment,  were  for  three  years  service.  In  addition  to 
this  large  force,  the  state  had  to  summon  the  militia  to  protect  her 
southern  border  against  lawless  men  from  Missouri,  and  her  northern 
border  against  Indian  outbreaks;  and  still  "another  force  to  quell  the 
movements  of  disloyal  men  in  Keokuk  county,  in  1863. 

She  has  promptly  responded  to  every  call  made  upon  her  in  advance, 
more  than  filling  her  quotas ;  and  no  state  has  exhibited  a  purer,  or 
more  active  patriotism.  The  spirit  of  her  people  was  aroused  at  the 
first  insult  to  the  integrity  of  our  nationality.  A  citizen  writing  from 
near  her  western  frontier,  describes  how  the  population  of  his  section 
responded  to  the  calls  of  country.  It  illustrates  but  the  universal 
spirit  of  the  times  in  loyal  communities. 

Greene  county  lies  on  that  narrow  belt  of  timber,  which,  like  an  oasis,  stretches 
far  up  the  banks  ojf  the  Coon  river  into  the  vast  prairie  of  northwest  Iowa.  At 
the  last  presidential  election  the  county  polled  but  266  votes.  With  only  a  weekly 
mail,  far  removed  from  the  excitement  incident  to  thickly  populated  communities, 
it  might  be  supposed  that  the  people  would  manifest  but  little  interest  in  the  war 
movements — but  not  so.  So  soon  as  the  news  of  the  repulse  of  our  brave  troops  at 
Bull  Run  was  confirmed,  an  effort  was  made  to  get  volunteers  from  a  small  com 
pany  that  happened  to  be  on  drill.  Immediately  thirty-three  men  walked  out  and 
subscribed  their  names  for  the  war.  Yesterday,  the  company,  numbering  seventy- 
two,  good  hardy  sons  of  toil,  having  taken  the  oath,  marched  for  Des  Moines, 
their  place  of  temporary  rendezvous.  Thus,  with  but  a  few  days'  notice,  one 
fourth  of  our  men  went  from  our  midst,  resolved  to  fight,  and,  if  needs  be,  to  die, 
for  their  dear  country.  Perhaps  never  in  so  short  a  time,  since  Malise  the  hench 
man — 

"  That  messenger  of  blood  and  brand  " — 

assembled  the  clansmen  of  Roderick  Dhu,  was  a  braver  and  more  determined  lit 
tle  war  party  mustered. 

One  brave  fellow,  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  said  he  could  not  take  the  oath,  be 
cause  his  child  was  sick  and  not  expected  to  live  a  day,  but  on  being  assured  by 

(539) 


540  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

his  neighbors  that  his  family  would  be  tenderly  cared  for,  he  rushed  into  the 
ranks,  and  soon  marched  away. 

Another  said  he  had  a  poor,  sickly  wife  and  young  babe,  and  how  could  he  go? 
but  go  he  did,  his  grey-haired  father  telling  him  that  he  would  take  care  of  his 
wife  and  bade  so  long  as  he  lived. 

Two  brave  boys  left  their  father,  it  may  be  on  his  deathbed,  and  with  difficulty 
was  the  third  son  dissuaded  from  going,  having  once  bidden  them  all  good  by. 
This  morning  I  asked  the  father  why  it  was  his  sons  left  him  thus :  "  Oh  !  sir,"  said 
he,  "  since  they  read  the  account  how  our  wounded  soldiers  in  the  hospital,  and 
on  the  battle  field  at  Bull  Run  were  murdered,  nothing  could  restrain  them ; 
and,"  continued  the  father,  "I  would  as  soon  be  dead  as  have  our  Government  go 
down."  I  believe  no  more  patriotic  or  truer  men  ever  assembled  on  Lanrick 
Heath,  or  any  other  ground,  than  yesterday  mustered  on  the  bank  of  our  unclas- 
sically  named  Coon  river. 

On  the  subject  of  our  national  troubles  the  feeling  of  our  people  is  sad,  quiet 
and  intense.  One  man  said  to  me  yesterday,  I  hope  our  brave  boys  at  the  war 
will  not  be  discouraged  by  the  defeat  of  our  troops  at  Bull  Run,  for  we  will  all 
be  ready  to  go  when  our  turns  come.  Another  of  our  oldest  citizens  said :  "  I 
have  labored  hard,  lived  frugally,  and  endured  frontier  hardships  for  twenty  years, 
and  have  obtained  what  will  make  each  of  my  children  a  comfortable  home,  yet  1 
would  freely  give  up  my  last  dime's  worth  of  property,  rather  that  see  our  Govern 
ment  abandoned."  And  this  is  nearly  the  universal* opinion  of  our  people. 

Once  enlisted,  it  was  seldom  any  regrets  were  expressed ;  thus  il 
lustrating  that  sacrifice  for  a  good  cause  but  increases  love  for  it.  A 
merchant  in  one  of  the  interior  towns  of  Iowa,  the  father  of  five  sons, 
had  four  of  them  volunteers  in  the  union  army.  The  whole  four  left 
behind  them  families.  A  neighbor,  of  disloyal  tendencies  and  med 
dling  propensities,  dropped  into  his  store  one  day  and  began  to  up 
braid  him  for  countenancing  his  sons  thus  to  leave  their  wives  and 
children  to  go  down  South  to  fight  in  "  a  nigger  war."  The  eyes  of  the 
other  flashed  in  indignation,  as  he  replied  :  "  They  go  to  protect  me  and 
my  property;  and  I'll  protect  their  families.  There  is  my  fifth  and 
last  son,"  pointing  to  a  stripling  behind  the  counter,  "  he  will  be  old 
enough  to  enlist  in  the  spring;  and  if  he  wont,  Til  hang  him!" 

Iowa  supplied  her  proportion  of  officers  of  merit :  among  them 
were  General  Corse,  "  the  hero  of  Allatoona ;  Generals  Fitz  Henry 
Warren,  Tuttle,  Dodge,  Lauman,  Hatch,  Rice,  Crocker,  and  Belknap. 
Another  was  General  Curtis,  the  "  hero  of  Pea  Ridge."  Still  another 
was  General  Herron,  who  was  one  of  the  younest  major  generals  in 
the  service.  These  two  last  named  were  both  identified  with  the  army 
of  the  frontier.  We  subjoin  notices  of  a  few  of  these  officers  : 

Major  General  FRANCIS  J.  HERRON  was  born  in  Pennsylvania,  and  about  the 
the  year  1856  removed  to  Iowa,  where  he  became  engaged  in  business  at  Du- 
buque.  During  the  year  1858,  young  Herron  took  great  interest  in  the  organiza 
tion  of  the  "Governor's  Grays,"  an  Iowa  military  company,  which  soon  was 
scarcely  to  be  equaled  in  drill  throughout  the  United  States,  claiming  to  rank 
even  with  the  noted  Chicago  Zouaves.  When  the  secession  movement  commenced, 
he  was  captain  of  the  company,  and  in  December,  1860,  by  a  vote  of  the  members, 
he  tendered  their  services  to  the  then  Secretary  of  War — Hon.  J.  Holt. 

When  the  president  called  for  three  months'  volunteers,  Captain  Herron's  com 
pany  was  organized  as  part  of  the  1st  regiment  of  Iowa  volunteers,  being  desig 
nated  as  company  I,  and  entered  the  service  May  9,  1861.  Captain  Herron  dis 
tinguished  himself  at  the  bloody  battle  of  Wilson's  creek,  Mo.,  where  General 
Lyon  fell,  August  10,  1861.  The  period  of  service  of  the  regiment  had  previously 
expired ;  but  instead  of  taking  advantage  of  this  to  return  in  safety  to  their  homes, 
they  volunteered  to  remain,  and  marched  out  to  battle  against  overwhelming 


IN  IOWA. 

numbers.  No  general  could  ever  say  of  an  Iowa  regiment,  as  McDowell  reported 
of  an  Eastern  corps — whose  time  had  expired  on  the  eve  of  conflict — "they 
marched  away  to  the  sound  of  the  enemy's  guns." 

Captain  Herron  then  returned  home  to  raise  a  three  years'  regiment,  and  suc 
ceeded;  obtaining  the  rank  of  Lieutenant  Colonel  of  the  9th  Iowa  infantry,  with 
a  commission  dated  from  September  10,  1861.  The  regiment  became  attached  to 
General  Curtis'  forces,  operating  in  southwestern  Missouri,  and  participated  in  the 
battles  of  Pea  Kidge,  March  7  and  8,  1862,  where  and  when  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Herron  commanded  his  regiment — the  colonel  having  charge  of  a  brigade.  Dur 
ing  the  second  day's  fight,  Lieutenant  Colonel  Herron  was  severely  wounded  by 
a  cannon  shot,  breaking  his  leg  at  the  ankle,  at  the  same  time  that  it  killed  hia 
horse.  Notwithstanding  the  nature  of  this  wound,  he  led  his  men  on  foot  for  over 
an  hour  longer,  until  they  reached  the  enemy's  batteries,  where  he  was  surrounded, 
and  after  a  desperate  resistance,  taken  prisoner.  He  was  removed  to  Van  Buren, 
Arkansas,  but  shortly  after  exchanged,  and  placed  under  the  charge  of  a  careful 
surgeon.  So  valuable  an  officer  was  Lieutenant  Colonel  Herron  considered  by 
General  Curtis,  that  he  gave  in  exchange  for  him  a  full  rebel  colonel — Louis  He- 
bert — so  that  Lieutenant  Colonel  Herron  might  not  die  on  the  rebel  hands,  but 
have  proper  attention  paid  to  his  wounds. 

On  the  16th  of  July,  1862,  Lieutenant  Colonel  Herron  was  promoted  to  be  a 
brigadier  general  of  volunteers,  and  at  the  battle  of  Prairie  Grove,  Arkansas, 
December  7,  1862,  he  not  only  commanded  two  divisions  of  union  troops,  but 
fought  and  won  the  battle,  against  overwhelming  numbers,  before  his  reinforce 
ments  oame  up.  During  this  engagement  he  lead  one  of  his  divisions  in  person. 

Several  Iowa  regiments  took  part  in  this  desperate  battle  of  Prairie 
Grove,  and  a  description  of  it  is  due  alike  to  them  and  to  their  horoic 
commander.  The  following  is  from  the  pen  of  one  who  was  present : 

General  Blunt  had  advanced  some  twenty  miles  south  of  Fayetteville,  Arkan 
sas,  with  his  forces,  and  there  drawn  the  attack  of  Hindman,  who  advanced  upon 
him  rapidly  from  Van  Buren,  with  about  30,000  troops  and  twenty-two  pieces  of 
artillery.  Blunt,  with  his  little  band  of  10,000  men  at  Cane  Hill,  would  have 
been  but  a  mouthful  for  such  an  immense  army  of  well  disciplined  soldiery  as 
this.  He  knew  his  danger,  and  sent  hurried  messages  to  General  Herron,  who 
had  the  command  of  the  2d  and  3d  divisions  of  the  army  of  the  frontier,  and  was 
at  that  time  at  Wilson's  creek,  four  miles  south  of  Springfield,  Mo.  The  moment 
General  Herron  received  intelligence  of  General  Blunt's  danger,  he  set  his  army 
in  motion  and  made  forced  marches,  accomplishing  the  feat  of  pushing  his  infan 
try  one  hundred  and  twelve  miles  in  three  days,  and  his  cavalry  one  hundred  and 
thirty-two  miles  in  two  days  and  a  half. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  instant,  as  the  advance  guard,  consisting  of  the  1st 
Arkansas  cavalry  and  a  portion  of  the  6th  and  7th  Missouri  cavalry,  were  enter 
ing  a  wood,  upon  the  south  bank  of  Illinois  creek,  ten  miles  south  of  Fayetteville, 
they  were  fired  upon  from  ambush  and  thrown  into  a  panic  that  resulted  in  a 
rout,  and  the  loss  of  their  baggage  train  of  twenty-four  wagons.  They  went  fly 
ing  back  two  or  three  miles,  until  they  met  the  main  body,  when  they  were  rallied 
once  more.  Major  Hubbard,  of  Pea  Kidge  fame,  with  a  portion  of  two  companies 
of  the  1st  Missouri  cavalry,  tried  to  stem  the  tide  of  rebels,  but  without  success. 
Their  superior  numbers  bore  down  everything  before  them,  and  among  others 
this  little  band.  Major  Hubbard  himself  and  two  of  his  lieutenants  were  cap 
tured,  and  the  remainder  forced  to  retreat  at  double  quick.  Our  infantry  were 
soon  brought  forward,  and  a  few  pieces  of  artillery  got  into  position  that  sent  the 
bold  scoundrels  back  as  rapidly  as  they  came.  General  Herron  followed  up  hia 
advantage  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  soon  found  himself  in  contact  with  the 
main  rebel  force. 

This  splendid  army,  contrary  to  our  expectations,  was  well  clothed,  well  armed 
and  well  fed,  and  better  drilled  than  our  own  soldiery.  It  consisted  of  a  corps 
of  26.000  men,  commanded  by  General  Hindman,  and  was  in  four  divisions,  com 
manded  respectively  by  Generals  Parsons,  Marmaduke,  Rains  and  Frost,  and  was 


542  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

supported  by  a  park  of  artillery  of  twenty-two  guns.  Besides  this,  they  had  a 
great  advantage  in  position.  The  battle  field  was  a  magnificent  stretch  of  open 
ground,  skirted  on  the  east  by  an  abrupt  hill,  covered  with  thick  woods.  On  this 
bluff,  concealed  by  the  forest,  were  posted  the  rebels  in  full  force. 

Our  forces  only  numbered  6500  or  7000,  and  consisted  of  the  following  infan 
try:  The  94th  and  37th  Illinois;  the  19th  and  20th  Iowa;  the  26th  Indiana  and 
20th  Wisconsin.  In  addition  to  these  were  four  companies  of  artillery,  who 
worked  24  guns,  and  some  half  a  dozen  companies  of  cavalry.  Our  men  were 
worn  down  by  a  long  and  continuous  forced  march,  and  some  of  them  had  been 
without  food  for  twenty-four  hours.  However,  when  the  ball  opened,  they  deployed 
into  the  field  with  loud  huzzas,  and  went  at  the  work  in  hand  with  great  bravery. 
It  took  some  little  time  to  get  into  position,  and  place  the  batteries  in  the  most 
commanding  localities,  and  it  was  fully  ten  o'clock,  A  M.,  before  the  artillery  duet 
was  in  full  voice.  As  may  be  imagined,  forty-five  or  fifty  cannon  well  manned 
and  discharged  as  rapidly  as  possible,  make  a  tremendous  racket.  This  was  kept 
up  until  dark,  when  by  that  time  green  troops,  who  had  never  seen  a  cannon  be 
fore,  laid  down  within  a  yard  of  a  gun  and  slept,  undisturbed  by  the  firing.  We 
did  not  lose  a  single  man  throughout  the  whole  day  by  artillery,  though  a  score 
or  two  of  horses  were  killed.  Our  gunners  were  much  more  skilled  and  precise 
in  their  aim  than  the  rebels,  which  was  shown  by  the  result. 

Upon  the  bluff  or  ridge  occupied  by  the  secesh,  were  many  fine  farm  houses, 
which  had  been  erected  upon  the  elevation  to  escape  the  damps  and  vapors  of  the 
plain  below.  From  the  rear  of  two  of  these  houses,  was  kept  up  a  well-directed 
fire  of  some  eight  or  nine  guns.  General  Herron  ordered  the  whole  fire  of  oujr 
artillery  to  be  directed  upon  the  battery  nearest  to  us,  and  silenced  it  in  ten 
minutes. 

The  20th  Wisconsin  infantry,  led  by  Lieutenant  Colonel  Bertram,  then  charged 
up  the  hill  and  took  the  battery  upon  a  double-quick.  They  had  no  sooner  gained 
possession  of  the  well-earned  prize,  than  the  rebels  arose  in  myriads  from  the 
bushes  in  the  rear  of  the  garden  containing  the  battery  in  question,  and  poured 
a  fire  into  the  ranks  of  our  boys  that  sent  their  columns  reeling  back  down  the 
declivity  again,  with  great  loss  of  life  and  limb.  In  this  struggle  197  were  reported 
officially,  as  killed  and  wounded. 

The  rebels  fought  desperately,  and  seemed  no  more  to  regard  a  shower  of  bullets 
or  a  storm  of  grape  than  if  it  had  been  but  a  summer  wind.  No  sooner  had  a 
solid  shot  plowed  its  way  through  their  columns,  or  a  shell  opened  a  gap  in  their 
lines,  than  the  vacancies  were  filled  by  others.  They  advanced  steadily  once  more 
upon  our  left,  and  there  we  knew  would  be  the  hottest  tug  of  the  day.  "  Tis 
darkest  just  before  the  dawn,"  some  one  has  said.  'Twas  so  in  our  case.  By  a 
bold  movement  the  rebels  were  once  more  checked,  and  just  then  the  word  came 
that  the  firing  upon  our  extreme  right  was  that  of  General  Blunt,  who  had  ar 
rived  with  a  strong  battery,  and  about  five  thousand  men.  This  intelligence  added 
new  courage  to  our  men,  and  sent  a  vigor  into  every  movement  that  meant  victory 
or  death. 

General  Blunt  ranged  his  twenty-four  pieces  in  a  line,  and  opened  a  galling  fire 
upon  the  left  wing  of  the  rebel  army,  and  drew  a  portion  of  their  attention  to 
ward  his  forces.  They  advance  upon  him  from  the  wood  at  a  double-quick,  in 
eight  ranks,  seemingly  half  a  mile  long.  They  went  down  a  gentle  smooth  slope, 
with  an  easy  prey  apparently  in  view.  When  they  had  got  to  a  certain  point,  within 
cannister  range,  he  opened  his  entire  fire  upon  them,  "fairly  lifting  them  from  the 
ground,"  as  he  afterward  described  it.  This  checked  their  impetuosity,  and 
put  terror  into  their  hearts,  but  still  they  came  on.  Another  and  another  volley 
was  given  them  until  they  broke  and  fled,  and  when  the  remnant  of  this  storming 
party  had  left  the  field  the  ground  was  strewn  and  piled  with  rebel  slain.  In  the 
meantime  our  boys  had  not  been  idle.  They  pressed  the  enemy  hotly  at  every 
point,  and  as  the  sun  went  down  they  were  falling  back  in  every  direction.  Be 
fore  it  had  become  fully  dark,  the  only  sounds  of  firing  heard  were  those  of  our 
own  musketry  and  cannon.  The  field  was  won  and  the  victory  gained. 

At  nine  o'clock  of  the  same  evening  the  enemy  were  in  full  retreat  toward  Van 


IN  IOWA. 


543 


Buren,  and  at  daylight  this  morning  they  were  twelve  miles  away.  A  more  com 
plete  and  glorious  victory  never  was  obtained.  As  soon  as  the  pall  of  night  had 
descended  upon  their  motions,  a  perfect  stampede  took  place.  Everything  this 
morning  denotes  a  hasty  flight,  and  great  fear  lest  we  should  pursue  them.  Al 
though  their  force  was  large  enough  to  crush  us  completely — in  fact  annihilate 
us — and  they  were  well  equipped  and  handled,  our  little  army,  of  comparatively 
inexperienced  troops,  effected  a  brilliant  repulse  and  won  an  unquestionable  vic 
tory.  This  morning  all  the  contested  ground  and  every  inch  of  the  battle-field 
are  in  our  hands,  and  the  only  rebels  in  view  are  piles  of  the  dead  and  the  am 
bulance  parties  carrying  away  the  wounded. 

The  weather  of  the  7th  was  delightful.  The  sun  shown  clearly  in  a  cloudless 
sky,  and  the  air  was  as  balmy  and  quiet  as  on  a  June  morning.  It  was  remarked 
by  many  old  soldiers  that  if  the  continent  had  been  searched  it  would  have  been 
impossible  to  have  selected  a  more  beautiful  field  of  battle  than  that  of  Prairie 
Grove.  General  Herron's  forces  entered  it  from  the  northern  extremity,  and  those 
of  General  Blunt  from  the  southern.  The  rebels  were  posted  upon  the  hills  and 
and  in  the  woods  for  four  miles  along  the  eastern  side  of  the  field,  while  our  bat 
teries  occupied  the  elevations  upon  the  western  side,  a  little  more  than  a  mile 
from  the  rebel  lines.  The  intervening  space  was  firm  sward  plowed  field,  stub 
ble  land,  standing  corn,  and  a  narrow  strip  of  brushwood,  which  skirted  a  little 
brook  running  through  the  middle  of  the  valley.  This  open  country  was  held 
by  our  infantry,  and  there  they  went  through  their  maneuvers  in  full  view  of 
General  Herron,  who,  for  a  good  portion  of  the  time,  occupied  a  little  hill  near 
Murphy's  battery,  on  the  western  side  of  the  field.  There  could  be  witnessed 
the  whole  of  this  intensely  exciting  strife,  not  a  movement  of  which  escaped  the 
quick  attention  of  our  young  commander.  The  brilliant  but  disastrous  charges 
made  by  the  20th  Wisconsin  and  19th  Iowa  upon  the  rebel  battery  were  as  plainly 
to  be  seen  as  the  moves  upon  a  chess  board.  The  swarms  upon  swarms  of  rebels 
that  came  trooping  out  of  the  wood  upon  our  left  in  numbers  sufficient  to  appal 
a  heart  less  strong  than  that  of  our  commander  were  as  openly  seen  with  their 
gleaming  muskets  and  flaunting  banners,  as  if  it  had  been  a  holiday  parade,  in 
stead  of  the  hottest  battle  that  had  ever  taken  place  on  this  side  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  whole  country  lying  north  of  the  Arkansas  river  is  at  our  mercy,  and 
nothing  remains  for  us  to  do  but  to  enter  in  and  take  possession.  General  Her 
ron  has  added  new  laurels  to  his  bright  reputation,  and,  as  may  be  supposed,  he 
is  the  idol  of  his  men.  Our  Government  has  in  him  a  vigorous  and  skillful 
general  and  a  sleepless  soldier. 

The  spirit  of  the  opposing  commanders  is  well  displayed  in  the  ad 
dress  of  General  Hindman  to  his  troops  before  the  battle,  and  by  that 
of  General  Herron  to  his  army  after  the  victory. 

ADDRESS  TO  THE  TROOPS. 

HEADQUARTERS  IST  CORPS,  TRANS-MISSISSIPPI  ARMY,  ) 
In  the  Field,  December  4,  1862.      J 

SOLDIERS  ! — From  the  commencement  to  the  end  of  the  battle,  bear  constantly 
in  mind  what  I  now  urge  upon  you: 

First.  Never  fire  because  your  comrades  do,  nor  because  the  enemy  does,  nor 
because  you  happen  to  see  the  enemy,  nor  for  the  sake  of  firing  rapidly.  Always 
wait  till  you  are  certainly  within  range  of  your  gun ;  then  single  out  your  man, 
take  deliberate  aim,  as  low  down  as  the  knee,  and  fire. 

Second.  When  occasion  offers,  be  certain  to  pick  off  the  enemy's  officers,  espe 
cially  the  mounted  ones,  and  to  kill  his  artillery  horses. 

Third.  Don't  shout,  except  when  you  charge  the  enemy.  As  a  general  thing, 
keep  silent,  that  orders  may  be  heard.  Obey  the  orders  of  your  officers,  but  pay 
no  attention  to  idle  rumors,  or  the  words  of  unauthorized  persons. 

Fourth.  Don't  stop  with  your  wounded  comrade;  the  surgeon  and  infirmary 
corps  will  take  care  of  him ;  do  you  go  forward  and  avenge  him. 

Fifth.  Don't  break  ranks  to  plunder:  if  we  whip  the  enemy,  all  he  has  will  be 


544  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

ours;  if  not,  the  spoils  will  be  of  no  benefit  to  us.  Plunderers  and  stragglers 
will  be  put  to  death  upon  the  spot.  File-closers  are  specially  charged  with  this 
duty.  The  cavalry  in  rear  will  likewise  attend  to  it. 

Remember  that  the  enemy  you  engage  has  no  feeling  of  mercy  or  kindness  to 
ward  you.  His  ranks  are  made  up  of  Pin  Indians,  free  negroes,  Southern  tories, 
Kansas  jayhawkers,  and  hired  Dutch  cut-throats.  These  bloody  ruffians  have  in 
vaded  your  country,  stolen  and  destroyed  your  property,  murdered  your  neighbors, 
outraged  your  women,  driven  your  children  from  their  homes,  and  defiled  the 
graves  of  your  kindred.  If  each  man  of  you  will  do  what  I  have  here  urged 
upon  you,  we  will  utterly  destroy  them.  We  can  do  this;  we  must  do  it;  our 
country  will  be  ruined  if  we  fail. 

A  just  God  will  strengthen  our  arms  and  give  us  a  glorious  victory. 

T.  C.  HINDMAN, 
Major  General  Commanding. 

Official :  K.  C.  NEWTON,  A.  A.  General. 

CONGRATULATORY  ADDRESS  OF  GENERAL  HERRON  AFTER  THE  BATTLE  OF  PRAIRIE  GROVE. 

HEADQUARTERS  2o  AND  3o  DIVISIONS,  ARMY  OF  THE  FRONTIER,  ) 
PRAIRIE  GROVE,  ARK.,  December  10,  1862.      j 

FELLOW  SOLDIERS: — It  is  with  pride  and  pleasure  that  1  am  enabled  to  congratu 
late  you  on  the  victory  so  recently  achieved  over  the  enemy.  Meeting  their  com 
bined  forces,  vastly  your  superiors  in  numbers,  armed  and  equipped  in  the  most 
efficient  manner,  contrary  to  what  we  have  been  led  to  believe,  marshaled  by  their 
ablest  generals,  posted  in  a  strong  position  of  their  own  selection,  prepared  and 
ready  to  attack  us,  entertaining  toward  us  feelings  of  hatred  and  fiendish  passion, 
evoked  by  infamous  lies  which  even  rebel  generals  should  have  disdained  to  utter, 
you,  fellow-soldiers,  after  a  forced  march  of  over  one  hundred  miles  in  less  than 
three  days;  weary,  exhausted,  and  almost  famishing,  animated  only  by  that  feel 
ing  of  patriotism  that  induced  you  to  give  up  the  pleasures  and  comforts  of  home 
to  undergo  the  dangers  and  hardships  of  tlie  field,  did  most  gallantly  meet,  fight 
and  repulse  the  enemy.  Your  fellow  soldiers,  elsewhere,  your  friends  and  rela 
tives  at  home,  your  fellow-citizens  and  your  country,  as  they  learn  of  the  splendid 
service  of  the  artillerymen,  of  the  determined,  daring  and  brilliant  charges  of  the 
infantry,  will  render  you  that  praise  and  honor  which  is  justly  your  due.  Iowa, 
Illinois,  Indiana,  Wisconsin  and  Missouri,  your  native  states,  are  proud  of  their 
noble  sons.  I,  who  witnessed  your  gallant  daring  in  every  encounter,  in  behalf 
of  your  country  and  myself,  tender  you  grateful  thanks  for  the  services  you  have 
rendered.  While  we  drop  a  tear,  therefore,  for  those  who  have  fallen,  and  sym 
pathize  with  those  who  are  yet  suffering,  let  us  not  forget  to  render  thanks  to  the 
Beneficent  Giver  of  all  blessings  for  the  success  that  has  thus  far  attested  the 
truth  and  right  of  our  glorious  cause.  F.  J.  HKRRON, 

Brigadier  General  Commanding  2d  and  3d  Divisions. 

Major  General  SAMUEL  R.  CURTIS  was  born  in  Ohio  in  1807  ;  gradu- 
duated  at  West  Point ;  studied  the  law  ;  was  a  colonel  of  volunteers 
in  the  Mexican  war ;  and  military  governor  of  Monterey.  On  his  re 
turn  home  he  divided  his  time  between  law  and  railroad  engineering. 
He  settled  at  Keokuk,  and  represented  that  district  in  congress  at  the 
outbreak  of  the  rebellion.  He  gained  lasting  military  .reputation  by 
his  signal  victory  at  Pea  Ridge,  described  in  our  article,  "  Times  of  the 
Rebellion  in  Missouri." 

Major  General  G.  M.  DODGE  was  born  in  Massachusetts ;  graduated 
at  Partridge's  military  school,  at  Norwich,  Vt.,  and  was  by  profession 
a  civil  engineer.  He  entered  the  service  as  colonel  of  the  Iowa  4th. 
He  commanded  a  brigade,  and  was  wounded  at  Pea  Ridge.  He  was 
at  Corinth,  luka,  Holy  Springs  and  Yicksburg,  at  which  last  he  was 
promoted  to  major  general.  In  the  Atlanta  campaign  he  commanded 
the  16th  army  corps.  He  was  again  severely  wounded  during  the 


IN  IOWA.  545 

siege  of  Atlanta.  Subsequently  he  was  ordered  to  Fort  Leaven  worth, 
in  Kansas,  and  assigned  to  the  command  of  that  department.  One 
who  knew  him  relates  the  following  illustrative  anecdote : 

While  at  Trenton,  West  Tennessee,  we  saw  him  do  a  thing  which  gave  us  a 
high  opinion  of  his  energy  and  determination.  The  Mobile  and  Ohio  railroad 
had  just  been'repaired,  and  as  he  had  been  entrusted  with  the  construction  he 
was  anxious  to  get  the  trains  through.  One  of  the  first  locomotives  that  came 
down  ran  off  the  track  near  Trenton.  He  ordered  all  in  the  vicinity  to  help  get 
it  on;  he  pulled  off  his  coat  and  helped  at  It  himself,  giving  them  such  an  exam 
ple  of  working,  driving  energy,  and  showing  such  good  judgment  and  vim  in  his 
directions  and  labor,  that  the  damage  was  speedily  repaired,  and  the  train  was 
soon  whistling  on  its  way.  We  were  satisfied  that  General  Dodge  was  no  kid 
glove  officer,  but  an  earnest,  practical,  intelligent  soldier,  who  did  what  many 
others  would  have  only  bunglingly  ordered,  and  who  thought  it  no  disgrace  to  put 
his  shoulder  to  the  wheel  if  the  cart  stuck  in  the  mud. 

Brigadier  General  JOHN  M.  CORSE  was  nationally  known  for  his  he 
roic  defense  of  Allatoona,  in  Sherman's  Georgia  campaign.  The  de 
tails  of  this  remarkable  affair  have  thus  been  outlined  : 

After  General  Hood  crossed  the  Chattahoochee,  a  force  of  five  brigades  and 
eight  guns,  under  General  French,  attacked  Big  Shanty,  on  the  Chattanooga  rail 
road,  and  succeeded  in  taking  the  place.  They  then  moved  on  Ackworth,  further 
north,  which  occupied  them  until  evening.  The  next  morning,  October  5th,  they 
drove  in  the  Federal  pickets  at  Allatoona.  This  post  was  defended  by  Brigadier 
General  John  M.  Corse,  who  had  abandoned  Rome  in  order  to  protect  Allatoona, 
which  was  of  far  greater  value,  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy. 

General  Corse  commanded  a  garrison  of  1700  men.  General  French,  the  rebel 
commander,  sent  to  Corse  a  summons  to  surrender  "  to  avoid  the  useless  effusion 
of  blood."  Corse  replied  that  he  and  his  command  "were  ready  for  the  useless 
effusion  as  soon  as  was  agreeble  to  General  French."  Leaving  their  artillery  on 
the  south  side,  to  shell  the  position,  the  rebels  swung  their  infantry  round  to  the 
north  front,  which  was  more  practicable.  The  attack  was  violent  and  determined, 
and  lasted  until  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  when  the  enemy  withdrew,  leaving 
1300  killed  and  wounded  on  the  field.  Nearly  700  of  Corse's  heroes  were  either 
killed  or  wounded. 

The  rebels  numbered  about  7500  in  all.  They  came  provided  with  a  wagon 
train  to  remove  the  rations  which  Sherman  had  accumulated  at  Allatoona,  but 
they  went  away  with  empty  wagons.  The  dead  rebels  had  their  haversacks  full 
of  uncooked  black  beans,  sugar  cane,  etc.  General  Corse  was  wounded  in  the 
head,  but  not  seriously.  Only  four  guns  were  mounted  in  the  fort.  If  the  rebels 
had  succeeded  in  taking  the  place,  they  would  have  been  able,  with  the  rations  on 
hand,  to  have  held  it  for  several  weeks. 

General  Sherman  witnessed  the  action  from  Kenesaw  Mountain,  with  breath 
less  interest,  aware  of  the  vast  interests  at  stake  and  peril  to  his  future  campaign 
in  case  of  Corse's  defeat.  Two  days  afterward  he  issued  a  congratulatory  order, 
commending  General  Corse  for  his  gallant  defense,  which  he  considered  an  exam 
ple  illustrating  both  the  necessity  and  possibility  of  defending  fortified  positions 
to  the  last. 

No  other  state,  we  believe,  has  furnished  a  regiment  with  such  a 
record  as  that  of  the  37th  Iowa,  or  GREYBEARD  regiment. 

The  formation  of  the  37th  or  Greybeard  regiment  illustrated  the  strength  of 
patriotism  among  the  people  of  Iowa.  This  regiment  was  all  composed  of  volun 
teers  not  one  of  whom  was  liable  to  military  duty.  Every  member  was  over 
forty-five  years  of  age ;  and,  therefore,  it  was  called  the  Greybeard  regiment. 
When  first  mustered  into  service,  the  regiment  had  907  men.  These  "  boys"  as 
our  volunteers  are  familiarly  called,  then  had  1374  sons  and  grandsons  in  the 
union  army.  Twenty-seven  of  the  common  soldiers  of  the  Greybeards  were  min 
isters  of  the  gospel ;  20  of  these  Methodist  preachers. 
35 


546  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

The  regiment  were  mostly  substantial  farmers  from  eastern  Iowa;  their  Colo 
nel  G.  W.  Kincaid,  being  also  an  agriculturist  from  Muscatine  county.  No  other 
state  in  the  union  has  furnished  such  a  corps  as  this;  and  no  provision  was  made 
in  the  laws  of  the  country  for  the  acceptance  of  such.  The  War  Department  sur 
mounted  the  difficulty,  and  they  were  mustered  into  service  on  the  15th  Decem 
ber,  1862. 

The  regiment  was  designed  for  garrison  duty,  and  were  so  employed,  rendering 
most  effective  service.  At  Alton,  Illinois,  they  guarded  the  rebel  prisoners  and 
with  a  remarkable  faithfulness  and  success.  The  police  of  the  prison  was  carried 
out  with  a  thoroughness  previously  unknown,  and  the  escapes  were  less.  On  being 
ordered  to  St.  Louis,  the  citizens  of  Alton,  headed  by  their  mayor,  keenly  alive 
to  the  value  of  their  services,  assembled  in  public  meeting,  passed  a  series  of  ap 
preciative  resolutions,  and  united  in  a  petition  to  the  War  Department,  to  retain 
them  at  their  post  It  was  unsuccessful,  as  they  had  been  ordered  immediately 
away. 

In  Missouri,  they  guarded  180  miles  of  the  Pacific  railroad.  They  were,  after 
this  transferred  to  other  points,  and  were  at  Memphis  in  1864,  when  Forrest's 
cavalry  made  their  sudden  dash  into  that  city.  In  1865,  they  were  employed  in 
guarding  the  prisoners  at  Camp  Chase,  Ohio,  and  a  part  were  also  on  duty  at  Cincin 
nati.  As  late  as  March,  1865,  when  the  regiment  was  in  its  third  year  of  service, 
it  mustered  500  muskets,  more  than  half  of  its  original  number.  Its  labors  were 
unusually  severe,  for  nearly  the  entire  period  each  man  was  summoned  on  guard 
duty,  every  other  day. 

Not  all  of  this  paternal  corps  set  good  soldierly  examples.  One  old  hunter  and 
trapper,  who  "  passed  "  by  the  name  of  PENNY,  and  aged  sixty-five,  proved  to  be 
"bad  coin."  He  ran  off,  and  although  due  "hue  and  cry"  was  made,  nearly 
three  years  elapsed  before  his  hunters  got  on  the  right  "  scent,"  and  he  was  dis 
covered.  The  "old  boy"  was  arrested  as  a  deserter  while  setting  his  traps  on 
the  head  waters  of  a  frontier  stream. 

We  turn  from  such  a  sad,  melancholy  dereliction  of  duty  to  the 
more  pleasant  contemplation  of  a  sketch  of  the  faithful  FATHER  KING, 
aged  eighty-two  years.  It  is  drawn  by  one  who  knew  and  probably 
loved  him.  This  father  in  the  Greybeard  camp  makes  a  good  picture 
of  a  Western  pioneer.  He  may,  indeed,  be  termed  a  "representative 
man." 

The  venerable  Curtis  King,  "  high  private,"  in  company  H  of  the  celebrated 
37th  Iowa,  the  regiment  of  "Silver  Greys,"  or  "Greybeards,"  has  deservedly  at 
tracted  much  attention,  alike  from  his  great  age,  elevated  character  and  exemplary 
patriotism.  The  following  authentic  particulars,  obtained  by  an  interview  with 
him,  can  not  fail  to  be  read  with  interest : 

"  Father  King,"  as  his  friends  love  to  designate  him,  is  six  feet  and  an  inch  in 
hight,  of  massive  and  well  knit  frame,  genial  presence,  careful  and  kindly  speech, 
good  health  and  spirits,  and  will  be  eighty-two  years  of  age  on  the  10th  of  May 
next.  He  is  able  to  perform  his  military  duties  with  alacrity,  and  has  sustained  the 
fatigues  of  guard  duty  with  much  less  inconvenience  than  many  younger  soldiers. 
While  those  who  were  his  juniors  by  scores  of  years,  have  been  rendered  invalids 
through  patrol  duty  at  night,  this  veteran  of  more  than  four-fifths  of  a  century, 
has  unintermittently  returned  to  his  post  with  cheerfulness  and  comfort.  For 
this  extraordinary  power  of  endurance,  at  so  advanced  an  age,  he  is  indebted  to 
a  constitution  derived  from  a  family  remarkable  for  strength,  vivacity,  stature, 
and  longevity,  and  to  his  healthful  habits  of  toil  and  religious  sobriety. 

Prior  to  the  Revolution  his  grandfather,  King,  left  Ireland,  and  with  wife  and 
six  sons  emigrated  to  the  colony  of  Virginia,  where,  in  the  valley  of  the  Rappa- 
hannock  and  in  Culpepper  county,  he  located  on  a  mile  square  of  land,  leased 
from  Colonel  Carter.  On  this  tract  the  children  were  reared,  married  and  brought 
up  their  families.  Thence  King,  youngest  of  the  six  sons  and  the  father  of  Curtis, 
died  at  the  age  of  fifty  years  from  the  bite  of  a  copperhead — a  fact  which  does 
not  help  to  lessen  the  son's  detestation  of  our  more  venomous  modern  copperheads. 


IN  IOWA.  547 

Curtis'  father  fought  under  Washington  through  the  Revolutionary  war,  and  was 
guarding  prisoners  at  Winchester  when  relieved  by  the  return  of  peace.  Among 
the  first  emigrants  to  the  free  soil  of  Ohio,  was  Curtis'  only  brother  and  two  'of 
his  five  sisters,  while  he  and  three  sisters  remained  with  their  widowed  mother 
on  the  old  farm.  At  the  age  of  nineteen,  Curtis  obtained  the  consent  of  the  rest 
of  the  family  to  transfer  their  residence  to  the  Great  West,  and  after  a  journey  of 
eight  tedious  weeks  over  the  rugged  mountains,  they  rejoined  their  friends  at 
Hillsboro',  in  Highland  county,  Ohio. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  in  Virginia,  neither  the  wealthy  grandsire,  nor  any 
of  his  descendants  ever  used  slaves.  Curtis  rented  a  cottage  for  his  mother  and 
his  three  sisters,  but  before  long  he  found  the  latter  all  married  and  himself  and 
mother  alone.  He  thereupon,  as  he  states,  considered  what  he  should  do  to  make 
her  happy,  and  concluded  to  marry  a  certain  attractive  young  widow,  of  thirty-six 
years,  u  of  good  report,  pious,  and  well  disposed."  He  was  then  not  20  years  old. 
Locating  his  wife  and  mother  together,  he  devoted  himself  arduously  to  "  trying 
to  make  a  living,"  and  "  found  the  labor  of  his  hands  blessed  abundantly,  so  that 
before  long  he  was  comfortably  fixed  in  his  sphere  of  life."  Then  new  territories 
were  discovered  beyond  the  Mississippi  and  he  was  still  led  after  them  and  was 
successful  in  his  locations,  and  continued  on  the  gaining  land  abundantly.  In 
the  town  of  Danby,  Hendricks  county,  Indiana,  his  mother  died,  and  was  buried 
at  the  age  of  one  hundred  and  three  years.  Her  name  was  Obedience,  and  she 
was  the  daughter  of  Colonel  Blackwell,  of  Virginia,  a  connection  of  the  family  of 
John  Randolph,  of  Roanoke.  Subsequently  Curtis  and  his  increasing  family  re 
moved  to  Richland  township,  Wapello  county,  Iowa,  near  the  L>es  Moines  river, 
where  they  have  now  resided  nearly  sixteen  years. 

He  has  now  been  twenty-five  years  married"  to  his  second  wife,  who  is  just  half 
his  age,  or  forty-one  years,  and  was  sixteen  when  united  in  marriage  with  him,  he 
being  then  fifty-seven  years  old.  By  her  he  has  nine  sons  and  three  daughters, 
and  by  his  former  wife  had  six  sons  and  three  daughters — in  all  twenty-one  chil 
dren,  15  of  them  sons.  The  Irish  ancestor,  Curtis'  grandfather,  lived  to  the  age 
of  one  hundred  and  fifteen  years,  and  was  six  feet  and  six  inches  in  stature. 
Several  of  Curtis'  uncles  were  seven  feet  in  hight,  and  lived  to  an  extreme  old 
age.  His  mother's  father  migrated  from  England  to  Virginia,  and  here  lived  upon 
the  rental  of  his  ancestral  estates  in  the  old  country.  After  his  demise,  the  old 
est  son,  Curtis  Blackwell,  removed  from  America  to  England,  to  manage  the  es 
tate  of  his  father. 

The  venerable  lowan  has  been  in  active  military  service  since  the  25th  October 
last.  He  may  well  be  excused  a  feeling  of  pride  in  his  personal  history  and  ante 
cedents,  and  a  desire  that  the  facts  of  his  life  and  family,  since  they  have  excited 
curiosity  and  comment,  should  be  correctly  published.  May  he  be  spared  to  hail 
the  return  of  peace  and  the  restoration  of  the  union  ! 

Of  the  conduct  of  the  men  of  Iowa  in  battle  we  could  fill  a  vol 
ume.  We  give  a  few  instances — opening  with  the  last  decisive  charge 
at  Fort  Donelson : 

On  the  right,  however,  lay  an  open  space,  up  which  climbed  the  brigade  of 
Lauman.  The  2d  Iowa  led  the  charge,  followed  by  the  rest  in  their  order.  The 
sight  was  sublime.  Onward  they  sped,  heedless  of  the  bullets  and  balls  of  the 
enemy  above.  The  hill  was  so  steep  that  the  rebels  left  a  gap  in  their  line  of 
rifle-pits  on  this  crest  of  hill.  Through  this  gap  they  were  bound  to  go.  Right 
up  they  went,  climbing  on  all-fours,  their  line  of  dark  blue  advancing;  the 
white  line  of  smoke  from  the  top  of  the  works  opposed  by  a  line  from  our  troops. 

They  reach  the  top — numbers  fall — the  suspense  is  breathless!  See!  they 
climb  over  the  works — they  fall — they  are  lost !  Another  group,  and  still  another 
and  another,  closes  up  the  gap.  All  is  covered  in  smoke.  The  lodgment  is  made — 
.he  troops  swarm  up  the  hill-side,  their  bright  bayonets  glittering  in  the  sun,  and 
the  firing  slackens. 

What  is  more  wonderful  is,  that  Captain  Stone's  battery  of  rifle'd  10-pounder*, 
close  behind  the  brigade,  is  tugging  up  the  hill,  the  horses  plunging,  the  riders 


548  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

whipping.  Upward  they  go,  where  never  vehicle  went  before,  up  the  precipitous 
and  clogged  sides  of  the  hill.  No  sooner  on  the  crest  than  their  guns  are  unliui- 
bered  and  the  men  at  their  posts.  Percussion  shells  and  canister  are  shot  spite 
fully  from  the  Parrot  guns  at  the  flying  enemy.  The  day  is  gained — the  position 
is  taken — the  troops  surround  the  guns,  and  the  enemy  has  deserted  his  post.  The 
34-pounder,  which  had  caused  so  much  havoc,  is  silenced  by  Colonel  Cook's  bri 
gade,  and  the  rebels  fly  to  the  main  fort  in  alarm.  The  day  is  gained — the  foe  is 
running!  Cheers  upon  cheers  rend  the  air,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  is  hushed. 

At  the  battle  of  Shiloah  it  is  said  of  them : 

The  2d,  3d,  6th,  7th,  8th,  9th,  llth,  12th,  13th,  14th,  15fch,  and  16th  Iowa  regi 
ments  were  engaged  in  this  battle.  The  7th  had  made  itself  glorious  at  Belmont 
and  the  2d  at  Fort  Donelson,  the  7th  being  at  both  battles.  Here  every  Iowa 
regiment  did  its  duty,  and  their  lists  of  killed  and  wounded  prove  it.  The  8th, 
12th,  and  14th  were  nearly  all  taken  prisoners;  and  it  was  because  they  fought 
and  held  their  ground  to  the  last,  in  obedience  to  orders,  instead  of  "  retiring,"  as 
some  of  the  Ohio  and  Illinois  regiments  did,  and  thus  saving  themselves.  General 
Prentiss  was  taken  prisoner  with  a  portion  of  them.  Many  of  our  Iowa  field  and 
company  officers  have  been  killed  or  wounded,  and  the  record  shows  or  will  show 
when  an  official  report  is  made,  that  our  Iowa  troops  shed  their  blood  as  freely 
as  those  from  any  other  state. 

Two  Iowa  regiments  were  led  into  the  battle-field  before  their  baggage  had  left 
the  river.  Arms  had  been  placed  in  their  hands  only  a  few  days  before,  for  the 
first  time,  and  they  had  never  been  drilled  in  loading  and  firing.  Probably  three- 
I'onrtii.s  of  them  had  never  before  seen  a  ball-cartridge;  yet  two  regiments  of  bet 
ter  man-material  had  never  left  the  State  of  Iowa  nor  any  other  state,  nor  men 
more  eager  for  a  fight  or  placing  that  fight  more  distinctly  on  principle.  The  loth 
was  led  almost  directly  to  the  battle-field,  and  afterward  was  intermingled  with 
the  16th.  The  latter  was  led  across  an  open  field  exposed  to  a  rebel  battery  fire, 
and  when  formed  in  line  on  the  opposite  side  was  ordered  back  again  by  a  "Gen 
eral"  commanding.  Arms  and  legs  were  cut  off  and  several  men  killed  while 
crossing  this  field  and  retiring,  yet  the  regiment  behaved  nobly — certainly  better 
than  could  have  been  expected  of  raw  recruits  under  their  first  fire.  The  regi 
ment  was  afterward  formed,  with  the  15th,  in  another  exposed  field — a  rebel  bat 
tery  and  musketry  in  front  in  the  woods.  Here  our  regiments  fought,  for  over  an 
hour,  against  an  almost  concealed  foe.  In  the  mean  time,  an  old  regiment,  of 
another  state,  came  up  and  took  position,  and  was  the  first  to  retire  from  the 
field.  The  Iowa  regiments  retired  only  when  an  advance  and  flanking  movement 
was  simultaneously  made  by  an  overwhelming  force  of  the  enemy.  A  delay  of 
five  minutes  would  have  resulted  in  the  surrounding  and  capture  of  our  small  force. 
The  result  was,  in  the  loth,  the  colonel  wounded  in  the  neck,  major  in  the  shoul 
der,  twenty  killed,  and  some  eighty  wounded ;  in  the  16th,  the  colonel  wounded 
in  the  arm,  lieutenant-colonel  had  his  horse  shot,  twenty-six  killed  and  ninety- 
three  wounded,  the  color-sergeant  killed  and  six  of  the  eight  color-guard  wounded. 
I  would  thank  you  to  compare  this  with  the  reports  of  many  old  regiments  re 
ported  by  correspondents  as  having  fought  all  day  long  most  desperately,  and 
had  their  hundreds  killed  and  wounded.  1  think  you  will  find  the  average  not  up 
to  ours.  That  afternoon,  the  16th,  or  a  large  portion  of  the  regiment,  was  again 
in  the  battle,  supporting  a  battery,  under  heavy  rebel  artillery-fire.  At  night  they 
were  in  the  advance,  under  Generals  Hurlbut  and  Lauman,  lying  out  in  a  drench 
ing  rain  and  expecting  a  conflict  every  moment.  Next  day  they  were  marched  out 
to  join  in  the 'Monday's  battle,  but  were  held  back  to  protect  a  reserve  battery. 
That  night  and  the  following  they  lay  out  in  the  cold  rain  and  mud,  without  over 
coats  or  blankets,  on  duty. 

Let  me  here  say,  that  when  these  regiments  marched  to  the  battle-field  on  Sun 
day  morning,  they  met  scores  and  hundreds  of  soldiers  belonging  to  other  regi 
ments  (not  one  man  from  an  Iowa  regiment)  going  back  to  the  river.  In  answer 
to  inquiries,  tfcey  all  said  their  regiments  had  been  "cut  to  pieces,"  and  the  rebels 
were  whipping  us,  etc.  They  could  not  be  turned  back,  although  the  effort  was 
repeatedly  made,  and  they  warned  our  regiment  not  to  advance;  but  the  Iowa 


649 

boys  pushed  straight  ahead  and  nobly  did  their  duty.  That  afternoon  thousands 
of  these  men  were  on  the  river  bank,  and  aids  not  being  able  to  rally  them,  gen 
erals  themselves  came  down  and  literally  drove  them  with  swords  to  their  duty. 
No  Iowa  soldier,  or  but  very  few,  were  found  in  that  cowardly  crowd ;  but  Iowa 
officers  helped  to  rally  these  recreants  and  march  them  off  to  the  battle-field. 

At  the  charge  of  Black-Eiver  bridge,  in  Grant's  Yicksburg  cam 
paign,  the  23d  Iowa,  of  Lawler's  brigade,  won  laurels.  The  circum 
stances  are  thus  told  by  one  of  the  soldiers : 

Only  eight  companies  were' engaged  in  the  charge,  two  being  deployed  as  skir 
mishers  at  the  time.  There  is  no  charge  on  record,  in  the  history  of  this  war,  more 
brilliant  or  daring  than  that  of  the  23d  on  the  Black-River  bridge  fortifications. 
When  we  received  the  order  to  charge,  from  our  gallant  Colonel  Kinsman,  we  had 
a  steep  river-bank  before  us,  then  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  clear  ground  to 
the  breast-works;  on  our  right  was  a  line  of  rifle  pits  filled  with  rebel  sharp 
shooters.  At  the  word — forward,  every  man  jumped  upon  the  bank.  A  terrible 
enfilading  fire  from  the  sharpshooters  struck  our  men  ere  we  had  hardly  shown  our 
heads.  Onward  the  regiment  dashed,  the  field  and  line-officers  waving  their  swords 
in  the  front,  led  by  Colonel  Kinsman.  The  cross-fire  of  the  rebels  grew  more 
terrible  at  every  step.  Many  were  lying  dead  and  wounded  on  the  ground.  Our 
colonel  fell,  wounded  in  the  leg ;  he  rose  up  and  again  struggled  forward  ;  he  was 
struck  again  and  fell  mortally  wounded.  For  an  instant  it  seemed  that  all  were 
slain,  so  rapidly  did  our  men  fall.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Glasgow  was  now  far  in  the 
lead,  crying  out  to  his  men  to  avenge  the  death  of  their  colonel.  We  beheld,  for 
the  first  time,  a  deep,  wide  ditch,  full  of  water,  extending  all  along  the  front,  and 
across  the  flank  of  the  rebel  works ;  but,  nothing  daunted,  the  right  of  the  regi 
ment,  which  came  first  on  the  works,  plunged  across  the  ditch,  formed  across  the 
flank  of  the  intrenchment,  and  poured  a  destructive  enfilading  fire  into  the  mass 
of  rebels  at  a  few  paces  distant.  They  could  not  stand  this,  at  once  they  started 
from  their  former  place  of  safety;  the  right  of  the  regiment  rushed  upon  them 
with  the  bayonet,  the  left  had  swung  across  the  ditch  and  were  on  the  works  too. 
The  whole  rebel  line  fled  when  their  left  broke.  Exhausted  as  our  men  were, 
they  outran  the  flying  butternuts,  in  their  efforts  to  reach  the  bridge,  and  took 
1,600  of  them  prisoners.  We  had  possession  of  the  strong  defenses  of  Black- 
River  bridge,  with  seventeen  pieces  of  artillery.  This  part  of  the  programme 
was  played  in  three  minutes,  solely  by  the  23d  Iowa,  during  which  time  120  men 
fell  on  the  field.  After  this  the  rest  of  the  brigade  got  up,  and  took  a  large  num 
ber  of  prisoners  on  our  right  and  left,  who  had  thrown  away  their  guns  when 
they  saw  their  defeat.  Many  escaped  across  the  railroad  bridge,  some  even  swam 
the  river,  and  quite  a  number  were  drowned  while  making  this  attempt. 

The  21st  and  22d  Iowa  and  llth  Wisconsin  were  the  regiments  that  supported 
us.  They  did  their  duty  well;  but  the  rebels  were  utterly  routed  before  these 
regiments  reached  the  works;  and  owing  to  the  rapidity  with  which  the  23d 
moved,  the  supporting  regiments  did  not  get  near  enough  to  receive  much  dam 
age  from  the  rebel  fire.  They  were  all  splendid  regiments,  and  have  since  dis 
tinguished  themselves  in  a  desperate  assault  on  the  defenses  of  Vicksburg. 

The  following  incident  occurred  at  the  same  battle,  and  is  told 
under  the  caption  of,  The  Methodists  in  the  Fight  : 

The  24th  Iowa  is  called  a  Methodist  regiment.  The  colonel  and  several  of  the 
captains  are  Methodist  preachers,  and  a  majority  of  the  soldiers  are  members  of 
the  Methodist  Church.  They  did  some  of  the  best  fighting  of  the  day,  yesterday. 
They  went  into  the  battle  full  of  enthusiasm,  and  not  one  of  them  flinched  during 
the  engagement.  Their  major  was  wounded  late  in  the  day.  He  walked  from  the 
field,  and,  on  his  way  to  the  hospital  captured  a  stalwart  confederate,  and  com 
pelled  him  to  carry  him  on  his  back  to  the  provost-marshal's  headquarters.  It  was 
a  laughable  sight  to  see  Major  Wright  riding  his  captive  into  camp.  The  casualty- 
list  of  the  Methodists  is  very  large,  and  shows  that  they  stood  up  to  their  work 
like  true  soldiers.  On  returning  from  the  battle-field  in  the  evening  they  held  a 


550 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


religious  meeting,  at  which  the  exercises  were  very  impressive.     As  I  write  they 
are  tilling  the  woods  with  "  Old  Hundred." 

In  this  battle,  after  the  enemy  had  been  driven  across  the  bridge, 
they  endeavored  to  burn  it  to  prevent  pursuit,  firing  it  in  several 
places.  The  Iowa  men  made  a  strong  effort  to  save  it. 

Conspicuous  among  the  latter  was  Elias  H.  Durand  of  the  27th  Iowa.  Noticing 
a  6-pounder,  that  had  been  deserted  by  the  foe,  too  hurriedly  to  permit  even  of 
its  being  fired  or  spiked,  he  sprang  to  it,  and  turning  it  by  himself  upon  a  group 
of  rebels  on  the  bridge,  sighted  it  with  the  utmost  coolness  and  precision,  and 
fired.  The  double  charge  of  grape  was  well  aimed,  and,  as  the  heroic  gunner 
sprang  upon  the  piece  to  see  the  effect  of  his  discharge,  a  yell  of  triumph  from 
his  comrades  rang  out  upon  the  air.  Of  the  rebel  group  all  but  two  lay  dead  or 
dying  on  the  timber  they  were  endeavoring  to  kindle.  Twice  more  did  our  im 
promptu  artilleryman — who,  it  must  be  stated,  did  not  belong  to  that  arm  of  the 
service — load,  sight,  and  fire  the  captured  piece,  and  each  time  with  the  most  fear 
ful  effect  upon  the  enemy.  As  at  first,  he  leaped  upon  the  gun  to  see  what  his 
shot  had  effected;  but  by  this  time  he  had  attracted  the  notice  of  a  Mississippi 
sharpshooter,  who  instantly  leveled  his  deadly  rifle  upon  the  brave  fellow.  The 
next  moment  Durand  was  seen  to  stagger  and  fall,  and  it  was  supposed  that  he 
was  killed.  But  he  was  not  to  be  so  easily  "put  out  of  the  ring"  as  he  after 
ward  remarked  to  his  surgeon.  At  the  instant  that  the  rebel  sharpshooter  had 
pulled  his  trigger,  Durand  partially  turned  himself,  and  steadying  himself  upon 
the  rammer  of  the  piece,  he  was  just  in  the  act  of  leaping  down  to  load  again. 
The  well-directed  rifle-ball  struck  the  rammer,  and,  splintering  it,  then  passed 
into  Durand's  left  shoulder,  just  below  the  clavicle  or  shoulder  bone,  and  lodged 
a  little  above  the  inferior  edge  of  the  scapula  or  blade  bone.  He  found  that  he 
could  not  use  his  arm,  and  therefore  could  not  reload  the  6-pounder.  Determined, 
however,  to  continue  the  battle,  he  made  his  way  down  to  the  bridge,  which  was 
now  more  than  half  consumed,  and  seizing  an  ax  from  the  hands  of  a  dying 
pioneer,  pressed  forward  with  his  brave  comrades  to  assist  in  staying  the  progress 
of  the  flames.  As  he  jostled  forward  his  shoulder  gave  him  dreadful  pain;  but, 
like  a  true  hero,  he  pushed  on  until  a  piece  of  shell,  fired  from  our  own  artillery, 
and  falling  short  of  its  mark,  wounded  his  remaining  arm  severely.  Then  seeing 
that  he  was  no  longer  of  any  service,  but  rather  a  hindrance,  he  commenced  his 
retreat.  After  getting  clear  of  the  masses  of  soldiers  who  were  immediately  by 
the  bridge,  he  was  met  by  an  officer  who  halted  him  and  asked  why  he  was  flying. 
"Flying,  sir,"  he  replied,  with  pardonable  vehemence,  "flying!  Why  it  is  as 
much  as  1  can  do  to  creep  along,  let  alone  fly !  See  this  hole  through  my  shoul 
der  and  this  shell  mark  in  my  other  arm  ?"  The  blood  was  flowing  rapidly  from 
his  arm,  and  he  must  soon  have  fallen  from  weakness  had  not  the  officer,  appre 
ciating  the  bravery  of  the  noble  fellow,  dismounted  and  bound  up  the  wounded 
limb  with  his  own  hands.  He  then  gave  him  directions  how  to  reach  the  hospi 
tal  and  promised  to  have  him  promoted  for  his  gallantry.  His  bravery  was  fully 
appreciated;  for,  on  hearing  his  narrative,  and  learning  also  that  he  had  served 
ten  years  in  the  old  regular  army,  his  commander  had  him  commissioned  a  second- 
lieutenant  of  artillery. 

And  if  anything  were  yet  wanting,  to  illustrate  the  spirit  of  Iowa 
soldiers,  we  have  it  in  the  following  striking  instance  of  "  the  ruling 
passion." 

It  was  immediately  after  the  battle  of  the  Hatchie.  The  dead  in  that  terrible 
conflict  had  been  laid  beneath  the  mold,  while  the  wounded  had  been  brought  to 
the  church-building  or  placed  in  the  spacious  apartments  of  wealthy  disloyalists 
of  Bolivar.  Among  the  number  of  unfortunates  was  William  C.  Nowlon,  a  ser 
geant  of  Company  G,  of  the  3d  Iowa  infantry.  His  leg  had  been  so  badly  shat 
tered  and  torn  by  a  musket-shot  as  to  render  amputation  unavoidable.  He  was 
informed  of  such  a  necessity,  but  not  a  murmur  or  word  of  complaint  escaped  hia 
lips,  nor  did  the  intelligence  seem  to  cast  over  his  face  the  least  perceptible  shade 


IN  IOWA.  5fil 

of  seriousness.  The  table  was  prepared — the  instruments  were  placed  conve 
niently,  and  everything  put  in  readiness  for  the  operation.  He  was  brought  out 
upon  the  verandah  and  placed  upon  the  table — his  poor,  shattered,  torn  and  half 
fleshless  leg  dangling  around  as  if  only  an  extraneous  and  senseless  appendage. 
There  was  no  sighing,  no  flinching,  no  drawing  back  or  holding  in. 

There  was  not  a  simple  feeling  of  dumb  resignation,  nor  yet  of  brute  indiffer 
ence,  but  of  soldierly  submission — a  heroic  submission,  without  a  question  or  a 
sigh.  He  indulged  freely  in  conversation  respecting  the  operation,  until  the 
chloroform  was  applied.  From  the  waking  and  rational  state  he  glided  into  the 
anaesthetic  without  the  convulsive  motion  of  a  single  muscle  and  without  the 
utterance  of  a  single  incoherent  sentence ;  but  glided  into  it  as  the  innocent 
and  weary  child  glides  into  the  sweet  embrace  of  a  healthy  and  restoring  sleep. 
The  operation  was  performed;  the  arteries  all  ligatured;  the  stump  cleansed; 
and  the  last  suture  just  in  that  instant  applied.  During  the  entire  operation  he 
had  scarcely  moved  a  muscle. 

Just  at  this  time,  the  large  body  of  prisoners  taken  in  the  engagement  were 
marched  up  the  street,  and  were  nearing  the  house  where  the  maimed  and  bleed 
ing  soldier  lay.  The  streets  were  all  thronged  by  soldiery,  and  hundreds  of  them 
rushed  to  get  a  near  sight  of  the  vanquished,  while  they  rent  the  heavens  with 
their  loud  huzzas.  A  full  regiment  preceded  the  column  of  prisoners;  and  when 
just  opposite,  the  band  struck  up,  in  force,  the  inspiring  air  of  "  Hail  Columbia.11 

In  a  moment — upon  the  very  instant,  the  color  mounted  to  his  face.  He  opened 
his  eyes  half  wonderingly,  and  raised  his  head  from  the  pillow  with  the  steadiness 
and  diginity  of  a  god.  The  scenes  of  the  conflict  came  back  to  him,  and  he 
thought  that  his  noble  regiment  was  again  breasting  toward  the  enemy  through  a 
shower  of  shot  and  shell.  His  brave  comrades,  he  deemed,  were  falling  one  by 
one  around  him,  just  as  they  had  done  in  that  dreadful  hour  of  fratricide  and  car 
nage.  The  spirit  of  the  time  came  over  him,  and  his  features  assumed  an  air  of 
bold,  fierce,  fiery,  and  unyielding  determination ;  and  he  broke  forth  into  excla 
mations  the  most  terrible  and  appalling  I  had  ever  listened  to  in  all  my  life. 

"  Louder  with  the  music  !  louder !  louder ! !  louder ! ! !  Burst  the  heavens  with 
your  strains !  Sweeter !  softer !  sweeter !  charm  the  blessed  angels  from  the 
very  courts  of  heaven !  Victory!  Victory!!  Onward!  onward!!  No  flagging! 
no  flinching !  no  faltering  !  Fill  up !  till  up ! !  Step  forward  !  press  forward ! 
Your  comrades  graves !  The  fresh  graves  of  your  slain !  Remember  the  graves 
of  your  comrades!  Blue  Mills!  Blue  Mills!!  Shelbina!  Shelbina!!  Hager 
Wood !  Hager  Wood ! !  Shiloah !  Shiloah  ! !  Shiloah ! ! !  For  God's  sake,  onward ! 
Onward,  in  heaven's  name !  Onward !  onward ! !  onward ! ! !  See  the  devils 
waver!  See  them  run!  See!  see!!  see  them  fly!!! — fly!  fly!!" 

During  this  outburst  of  passion  his  countenance  kindled  and  became  purple, 
till  his  look  seemed  that  of  diabolism.  Such  a  fury  marked  his  lineaments  that 
I  instinctively  drew  back.  But  there  was  "method  in  his  madness."  He  only 
erred  in  mistaking  time  and  in  misplacing  himself  and  his  position;  facts  which 
the  martial  music  and  the  "pomp  and  circumstance  of  war"  in  the  public 
streets  would  have  a  natural  tendency  toward  producing. 

In  the  very  middle  of  his  fury  he  seemed  suddenly  to  comprehend  his  mistake.. 
He  ceased  abruptly,  his  whole  frame  in  a  tremor  of  emotion.  He  looked  around 
upon  the  faces  present,  and  without  a  word,  quietly  laid  down  his  head.  He  grew 
meditative  as  he  seemed  to  realize  a  full  sense  of  his  unhappy  situation.  At 


ried  away  to  his  room. 

Gay  fellows  were  they  too,  in  camp  and  on  the  march,  as  the  follow 
ing  song  testifies  : 


552  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

GAY  AND  HAPPY. 

AS   COMPOSED   AND   SUNG   BY   THE   BOYS   OP   THE   SIXTH   IOWA  VOLUNTEERS. 

We  're  the  boys  most  gay  and  happy, 

Tho'  we  're  tented  in  the  field ; 
With  our  nation's  banner  o  'er  us, 
And  its  honor  for  a  shield. 

CHORUS — Then  let  the  cannon  boom  as  they  will, 

We '11  be  gay  and  happy  still; 

Gay  and  happy,  gay  and  happy — 

We'll  be  gay  and  happy  still. 

Friends  at  home,  be  gay  and  happy, 

Never  blush  to  speak  our  names ; 
If  our  comrades  fall  in  battle, 

They  shall  share  a  soldier's  fame. 
CHORUS— Then  let,  etc. 

Colonel  Corse  is  gay  and  happy- 
Holds  his  post  with  his  command ; 

Seldom  has  a  soldier's  honor 
Ever  graced  a  better  man. 
CHORUS — Then  let,  etc. 

We  're  the  gay  and  happy  Hawkeyes, 

From  the  State  of  Iowa; 
Heady,  when  our  colonel  leads  us, 

For  the  thickest  of  the  fray, 
CHORUS — Then  let,  etc. 

Rebels  are  not  gay  and  happy ; 

For  their  "scrip"  they  can  not  eat — 
Some  like  birds  we  keep  in  cages, 

Dining  on  "  hard  tack  "  and  meat 
CHORUS — Then  let>  etc. 

Girls  at  home,  be  gay  and  happy, 

Show  that  you  have  woman's  pride, 
Never  wed  a  home-sick  coward — 

Wait  and  be  a  soldier's  bride. 
CHORUS— Then  let,  etc. 

Gay  and  happy,  hear  the  answer, 

None  but  fools  get  married  now. 
Valiant  men  have  all  enlisted, 

And  to  cowards  we  '11  not  bow. 
CHORUS — Then  let,  etc. 

We  're  the  girls  so  gay  and  happy, 

Waiting  for  the  end  of  strife  • 
Better  share  a  soldier's  rations 

Than  to  be  a  coward's  wife. 
CHORUS — Then  let,  etc. 

For  the  gay  and  for  the  happy, 

We  're  as  constant  as  the  dove ; 
But  the  man  who  dare  not  soldier 
Never  can  obtain  our  love. 

CHORUS — Then  let  the  cowards  prate  as  they  will, 

We'll  be  gay  and  happy  still; 

Gay  and  happy,  gay  and  happy — 

We  '11  be  gay  and  happy  still. 


IN  IOWA. 


553 


It  is  in  place  here  to  give  the  famous  army  song  which  Sherman's 
veterans  chanted  on  their  victorious  march.  It  was  written  by  Adju 
tant  Byers  of  the  5th  Iowa,  while  confined  in  the  rebel  prison  at  Co 
lumbia,  South  Carolina,  and  being  set  to  music  was  frequently  sung 
by  the  captives,  as  a  relief  to  the  monotony  of  their  prison  life.  After 
Wilmington  was  taken,  it  was  sung  in  the  theater,  producing  immense 
enthusiasm : 

THB   MARCHING   SONG  OP   SHERMAN'S   ARMY   ON   THEIR   WAT   TO   THE   SEA. 

Our  camp  fires  shone  bright  on  the  mountains 

That  frowned  on  the  river  below, 
While  we  stood  by  our  guns  in  the  morning 

And  eagerly  watched  for  the  foe — 
When  a  rider  came  out  from  the  darkness 

That  hung  over  mountain  and  tree, 
And  shouted,  "  Boys,  up  and  be  ready, 

For  Sherman  will  march  for  the  sea." 

When  cheer  upon  cheer  for  bold  Sherman 

Went  up  from  each  valley  and  glen, 
And  the  bugles  re-echoed  the  music 

That  came  from  the  lips  of  the  men. 
For  we  knew  that  the  stars  in  our  banner 

More  bright  in  their  splendor  would  be. 
And  that  blessings  from  Northland  would  greet  u», 

When  Sherman  marched  down  to  the  sea. 

Then  foward,  boys,  forward  to  battle, 

We  marched  on  our  wearisome  way 
And  we  stormed  the  wild  hills  of  Kesaca— 

God  bless  those  who  fell  on  that  day. 
Then  Kenesaw  frowned  in  its  glory, 

Frowned  down  on  the  flag  of  the  free, 
But  the  East  and  the  West  bore  our  standards, 

And  Sherman  marched  on  to  the  sea. 

Still  onward  we  pressed,  till  our  banners 

Swept  out  from  Atlanta's  grim  walls, 
And  the  blood  of  the  patriot  dampened 

The  soil  where  the  traitor  flag  falls. 
But  we  paused  not  to  weep  for  the  fallen, 

Who  slept  by  each  river  and  tree, 
Yet  we  twined  them  a  wreath  of  the  laurel, 

As  Sherman  marched  down  to  the  sea. 

O,  proud  was  our  army  that  morning, 

That  stood  where  the  pine  darkly  towers, 
When  Sherman  said  :  "  Boys,  you  are  weary 

But  to-day  fair  Savannah  is  ours." 
Then  sang  we  a  song  for  our  chieftain, 

That  echoed  o'er  river  and  lea, 
And  the  stars  in  our  banners  shone  brighter 

When  Sherman  marched  down  to  the  sea. 

These  bold  singers  ceased  not  their  march  when  they  reached  the 
sea,  but  swept  on  as  conquerors  through  Carolina;  and  Iowa  boys 
in  the  advance  were  the  first  to  raise  the  banner  of  stars  over  the  cap 
ital  of  the  state,  Columbia,  where  not  long  before  a  captive  lowan 


554  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION  IN  IOWA. 

penned  Sherman's  march  to  the  sea.     Well  may  we  say,  as  does  an 
Iowa  editor : 

HURRAH  FOR  IOWA! — Colonel  Kennedy  of  the  13th  Iowa,  Lieutenant  McArthur, 
and  Lieutenant  W.  H.  Goodrell  of  the  15th  Iowa,  supported  by  about  fifty  men, 
oonstituted  the  advance  guard  which  captured  Columbia,  South  Carolina.  The 
squad  crossed  the  river  in  a  small  boat,  and  advanced  on  the  city.  The  boys  ran 
into  a  company  of  Wheeler's  cavalry  and  received  the  benefit  of  several  shots 
which  did  no  damage.  The  colors  of  the  13th  Iowa  were  flying  over  the  old  and 
new  state  houses  before  the  15th  corps  came  up.  The  city  surrendered  to  Gene 
ral  Hazen. 

A  few  weeks  later,  another  "  Hurra  for  Iowa  "  might  have  been  given, 
topped  with  "a  tiger,"  and  a  motion  to  "adjourn"  for  it  was  then 
that  in  the  fall  of  Mobile,  the  8th  Iowa  signalized,  itself  by  leading  in 
"the  forlorn  hope,"  in  a  gallant,  successful  and  desperate  charge 
against  Fort  Blakely.  It  was  on  this  occasion  that  Lieutenant  Vine 
yard,  leading  company  G-,  fell  desperately  wounded.  Some  of  his  men 
halted  a  moment  where  he  lay  :  "Pay  no  attention  to  me,  boys,"  he  cried, 
"  move  on! "  and  the  rebels  found  they  did. 


M  ISSO  U  El. 


MISSOURI  was  originally  included  in  the  limits  of  Louisiana,  purchased 
of  the  French  government  in  1803.  The  first  Europeans  who  visited  any 

part  of  its  territory  appear  to  have 
been  Marquette  and  Joliet,  the 
French  missionaries  from  Canada, 
who  sailed  down  the  Mississippi  in 
1673.  This  river  was  more  fully  ex 
plored  by  La  Salle,  in  1682,  who  de 
clared  all  the  region  between  the  Il 
linois  country  and  the  Gulf  of  Mex 
ico  to  be  an  appendage  of  France. 
From  this  period,  settlements  began- 
to  be  made  in  the  valley  of  the  Mis 
sissippi,  and  the  territory  was  pro 
tected  from  Spanish  invasion  by  a 
chain  of  fortifications,  extending  from 
the  lakes  to  the  gulf.  Among  these 
was  Fort  Orleans,  built  in  1719,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Osage,  not  far  from 
the  site  of  Jefferson  City. 

The  settlements  in  the  Mississippi 
valley  were  made  advancing  from  its 
northern  and  southern  extremities  into  the  interior.  Missouri  being  in  the 
central  part,  its  progress  was  slow.  Its  lead  mines  were  worked  as  early  as 
1720.  St.  Genevieve,  the  oldest  town,  was  founded  in  1755;  St.  Louis  in 
1764  :  other  settlements  followed  in  quick  succession.  During  tbe  progress 
of  the  contest  between  France  and  Great  Britain,  many  of  the  Canadian 
French  emigrated  by  way  of  the  lakes,  and  going  southward,  located  them 
selves  in  both  Upper  and  Lower  Louisiana.  These  emigrants  gave  the  first 
important  impulse  to  the  colonization  of  Missouri. 

After  the  conquest  of  Canada,  in  1763,  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Mississippi 
passed  from  France  to  Great  Britain  and  Spain,  the  Mississippi  River  being 
the  dividing  line  between  the  possessions  of  the  two  latter  powers.  The 
whole  population  of  Spanish  Louisiana,  north  and  south,  at  the  time  of  the 
public  transfer,  in  1769,  is  stated  to  have  been  18.840  persons,  of  whom  5,556 
were  whites,  and  the  remainder  negroes.  A  river  trade  had  sprung  up  be- 

(555) 


ARMS  or  MISSOURI. 

MOTTO — Salus  popnli  suprema  lex  exto — Let  the  prop 
erty  of  the  people,  be  the  supreme  law. 


558 


MISSOURI. 


in  1854,  the  western  border  of  the  state  became  the  theater  of  much  excite 
ment  and  many  hostile  demonstrations,  arising  from  the  contest  between  the 
free  state  men,  who  had  emigrated  into  the  adjoining  Territory  of  Kansas, 
and  the  pro-slavery  party,  principally  from  the  western  border  of  Missouri, 
who  were,  by  their  opponents,  termed  "border  ruffians."  During  the  strug 
gle  for  ascendency,  man^r  outrages  were  committed,  and  many  lives  lost  on 
both  sides.  Of  late  years,  a  political  contest  has  sprung  up  between  the 
emancipation  and  pro-slavery  parties  in  this  state,  the  final  result  of  which 
remains  to  be  seen. 

Missouri  is  bounded  N.  by  Iowa,  E.  by  the  Mississippi  River,  S.  by  Ar 
kansas,  and  W.  by  Kansas,  Nebraska,  and  the  Indian  territory.  It  is  situ 
ated  between  36°  and  40°  36'  N.  Lat.,  and  between  89°  and  95°  36'  W. 
Long.  It  is  287  miles  long  and  230  broad,  containing  upward  of  65,000 
square  miles,  nearly  equaling  in  extent  the  six  New  England  states  together, 
and  more  than  doubling  them  all  in  agricultural  capacity.  The  surface  of 
Missouri  is  quite  varied.  Alluvial,  or  bottom  lands,  are  found  on  the  mar 
gins  of  the  rivers.  In  the  interior,  bottoms  and  barrens,  naked  hills  and 
prairies,  heavy  forests  and  streams  of  water,  may  be  often  seen  in  one  view. 
In  the  south-east  part,  near  the  Mississippi  and  south  of  Cape  Girardeau,  is 
an  extensive  marsh,  reaching  into  Arkansas,  and  comprising  an  area  nearly 
equal  to  the  entire  state  of  Connecticut.  Back  of  this  is  a  hilly  country, 
rich  in  minerals,  which  extends  to  Osage  River.  One  of  the  richest  coal 
fields  in  the  Union  occupies  the  greater  part  of  the  state  north  of  the  Osage 
River,  and  extending  nearly  to  the  Iowa  line.  The  coal  is  bituminous  and 
much  of  it  cannel.  The  great  cannel  coal  bed  in  Calloway  county,  is  the 
largest  body  of  cannel  coal  known:  in  places  it  is  75  feet  thick.  On  distil 
lation,  it  yields  excellent  coke,  and  a  gas  that,  being  destitute  of  sulphur, 
burns  with  a  bright  and  beautiful  flame.  The  lead  region  is  at  an  average 
distance  of  seventy  miles  from  St.  Louis,  and  covers  an  area  of  3,000  square 
miles.  While  in  Wisconsin  the  lead  does  not  extend  100  feet  in  depth,  the 
lead  veins  of  Missouri  extend,  in  places,  more  than  1,000  feet.  The  mineral 
region  contains  216  localities  of  lead  ore,  90  of  iron,  and  25  of  copper.  The 
state  abounds  in  iron ;  in  fact,  no  country  in  the  world  contains  so  much  of 
this  useful  ore  as  Missouri*;  and  her  general  mineral  wealth  is  enormous,  in 
coal,  iron,  copper,  lead,  etc.  Minerals  of  the  non -metallic  kind  are  also 
abundant,  limestone,  sandstone,  porphyries,  gypsum,  sienite,  porcelain,  pipe 
and  variegated  clays. 

The  country  north  of  the  Missouri,  and  that  which  adjoins  Kansas,  has 
been  termed  the  garden  of  the  west.  In  most  places  it  has  a  beautiful,  un 
dulating  surface,  sometimes  rising  into  picturesque  hills,  then  stretching  into 
a  sea  of  prairie,  interspersed  with  shady  groves  and  streams  of  water. 

Missouri  possesses  very  great  facilities  for  internal  intercourse  by  water, 
having  the  navigation  of  the  two  greatest  rivers  in  the  United  States,  if  not 
in  the  world.  By  means  of  the  Mississippi  River,  forming  her  eastern  boun 
dary,  she  has  commerce  with  the  most  northern  territory  of  the  Union,  with 
the  whole  valley  of  the  Ohio,  some  of  the  Atlantic  states,  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico ;  by  the  Missouri,  which  passes  through  the  central  part  of  the  state, 
she  can  extend  her  commercial  intercourse  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
climate  is  variable,  in  winter  the  streams  are  sometimes  frozen  so  as  to  admit 
the  passage  of  heavy  loaded  vehicles;  the  summers  are  very  hot,  but  the  air  is 
dry  and  pure,  and  the  climate  may  be  classed  among  those  most  favorable  to 
health.  The  soil  of  the  state,  speaking  generally,  is  good  and  of  great  agri- 


MISSOURI. 


559 


cultural  capabilities,  particularly  the  bottom  lands,  bordering  the  rivers. 
The  principal  agricultural  staples  are  Indian  corn  and  hemp.  The  southern 
highlands  are  finely  adapted  to  the  culture  of  the  grape.  In  1810,  the  pop 
ulation  was  less  than  20,000  ;  in  1830,  in  was  140,000;  in  1850,  682,244,  of 
whom  87,422  were  slaves;  in  1860,  1173,317,  including  114,965  slaves. 


—^lN^^F 


Central  part  of  the  Levee,  at  St,  Louis. 

The  view  was  taken  from  Bloody  Island,  near  the  Kailroad  Depot,  on  the  Illinois  side  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  shows  the  steamboats  lying  at  the  Levee,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Custom  House,  and  the  Court  House, 
the  upper  portion  of  which  is  seen  in  the  distance.  The  river  front  here,  for  a  long  distance,  is  generally 
crowded  with  steamers,  lying  abreast  of  each  other,  in  tiers  of  three  and  four  deep,  indicating  the  extra 
ordinary  commerce  of  the  city. 

ST.  Louis,  the  commercial  capital  of  Missouri,  and  of  the  great  central 
valley  of  the  Mississippi,  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  18 
miles  below  the  junction  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  in  38°  37'  28"  N.  Lat.,  and 
90°  15'  16"  W.  Long.,  about  1,200  miles  above  New  Orleans,  705  from  Cin 
cinnati,  822  from  St.  Paul,  564  from  Louisville,  Ky.,  180  above  Cairo,  and  125 
from  Jefferson  City,  the  capital  of  the  state.  The  compact  part  of  the  city 
stretches  about  three  miles  along  the  river,  and  two  miles  back.  The  site 
rises  from  the  river  into  two  limestone  elevations,  the  first,  twenty,  and  the 
second  forty  feet  above  the  ordinary  floods  of  the  Mississippi.  The  ascent 
to  the  first  is  rather  abrupt,  the  second  rises  more  gradually,  and  spreads  out 
into  an  extensive  plain.  The  city  is  well  laid  out,  the  streets  being  for  the 
most  part  60  feet  wide,  and,  with  few  exceptions  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles.  Front-street,  which  extends  along  the  levee,  is  upward  of  100  feet 
broad,  built  upon  the  side  facing  the  river  with  a  massive  range  of  stone  ware 
houses,  which  make  an  imposing  appearance.  The  population  of  St.  Louis 


560  MISSOURI. 

in  1840,  was  16,469;  in  1850,  82,774;  and  in  1860,  162,179.  About  one 
third  of  the  inhabitants  are  natives  of  Germany  or  their  descendants. 

St.  Louis  is  sometimes  fancifully  called  the  "Mound  City,"1'  from  a  great 
mound,  at  the  base  of  which  it  was  first  settled,  and  which  is  said  by  the  In 
dians  to  have  been  the  burial  place  of  their  ancestors  for  centuries. 

The  natural  advantages  which  St.  Louis  enjoys,  as  a  commercial  emporium, 
are  probably  equal  to  any  inland  port  in  the  world.  Situated  midway  be 
tween  two  oceans,  and  near  the  geographical  center  of  the  finest  agricultural 
and  mineral  region  of  the  globe,  almost  at  the  very  focus  toward  which  con 
verge  the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  the  Ohio,  and  the  Illinois  Rivers,  she 
seems  destined  to  be  the  great  receiving  and  distributing  depot  for  a  vast  re 
gion  of  country.  It  is  now,  next  to  New  Orleans,  the  principal  port  on  the 
Mississippi,  and  among  the  western  cities  is  the  rival  to  Cincinnati  in  popu 
lation  and  wealth.  "  In  a  circuit  of  less  than  90  miles  from  the  city,  iron, 
coal,  lead,  and  probably  copper,  are  sufficiently  abundant  to  supply  the  Union 
for  indefinite  ages,  and  of  this  region  St.  Louis  is  the  only  outlet.  The  man 
ufactures  of  St.  Louis  embrace  a  great  variety  of  products.  Among  the 
manufacturing  establishments  may  be  mentioned,  extensive  iron  works,  flour 
ing  mills,  sugar  refineries,  manufactures  of  hemp,  rope  and  bagging  factories, 
tobacco  factories,  oil  mills,  etc.  The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the 
Mississippi,  drawn  up  by  two  engines,  each  of  about  350  horse  power,  and 
forced  through  a  20  inch  pipe  to  the  reservoir',  located  about  one  mile  west, 
and  capable  of  holding  thirty-two  millions  of  gallons. 

Very  few  cities  in  the  Union  have  improved  more  rapidly  in  the  style  of 
its  public  buildings,  than  St.  Louis;  among  these  is  the  magnificent  court 
house,  which  occupies  a  square,  presenting  a  front  on  four  streets  :  it  is  con 
structed  of  limestone,  and  erected  at  an  expense  of  upward  of  one  million 
of  dollars.  The  custom  house,  another  noble  building,  is  fire  proof,  con 
structed  of  Missouri  marble.  The  Lindell  House  is  one  of  the  most  exten 
sive  and  beautiful  of  hotels.  The  Mercantile  Library  building  is  a  fine 
structure,  having  one  of  the  best  halls  in  the  western  states,  capable  of 
seating  2,300  persons.  The  library  connected  with  the  institution  consists 
of  upward  of  14,000  volumes.  The  Library  Association,  among  the  curios 
ities  in  their  possession,  have  the  original  model  of  John  Fitch's  steam  en 
gine,  made  about  the  year  1795;  it  is  some  two  feet  high,  with  a  copper 
boiler.  They  also  have  a  marble  slab,  about  seven  feet  square,  from  the  ruins 
of  ancient  Ninevah,  covered  with  a  figure  in  bas-relief  and  interesting  cunei 
form  inscriptions.  The  St.  Louis  University,  under  the  direction  of  the  Cath 
olics,  has  a  spacious  building  in  the  city,  with  18  instructors,  and  about  300 
students,  and  some  15,000  volumes  in  its  libraries.  This  institution  was 
founded,  in  1829,  by  members  of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  and  was  incorporated 
by  the  legislature  in  1832.  In  the  museum  connected  with  the  University, 
is  the  dagger  of  Cortez,  14  inches  long,  the  blade  consisting  of  two  divisions, 
with  an  apparatus  and  spring  in  the  hilt  for  containing  and  conveying  poison. 
The  Washington  University  was  founded  in  1853.  The  city  contains  various 
other  excellent  literary  institutions :  among  these  are  several  medical  colleges. 
There  are  also  hospitals,  dispensaries,  and  other  charities,  for  the  medical 
care  of  the  destitute.  Among  the  charitable  institutions,  the  most  conspic 
uous  are  the  Protestant  and  Catholic  Orphan  Asylums — the  first  under  the 
direction  of  Protestant  ladies,  and  the  latter  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  The 
total  value  of  the  taxable  property  of  St.  Louis,  for  1860,  was  about  100 
millions  of  dollars. 


MISSOURI. 


561 


The  subjoined  sketch  of  the  history  of  St.  Louis,  is  extracted  from  the 
London  edition  of  the  work  of  Abbe  Domenech,*  the  original  being  in 
French: 

St.  Louis,  the  Queen  of  the  West,  was  French  by  birth ;  her  cradle  was  sus 
pended  in  the  forest  watered  by  the  Mississippi ;  her  childhood  was  tried  by  many 
privations;  and  her  adolescence  was  reached  amid  the  terrors  inspired  by  the  In 
dian's  cry.  Her  youth,  though  more  calm,  was  scarcely  more  happy.  Abandoned 
by  her  guardian,  the  Lion  of  Castile,  she  was  again  claimed  by  her  ancient  mother; 
but  only  to  be  forsaken  anew.  She  then  passed  under  the  protecting  wing  of  the 
American  eagle,  and  became  the  metropolis  of  the  Empire  of  the  De&erta, 


South-eastern  view  of  the  Court  House,  St.  Louis, 

M.  d'Abadie,  civil  and  military  director-general,  and  governor  of  Louisiana,  con 
ceded,  in  1762,  to  Messrs.  Pierre  Ligueste,  Laclede,  Antoine  Maxan,  and  Company, 
the  monopoly  of  the  fur  trade  with  the  Indians  of  Mississippi  and  Missouri.  M. 
Laclede,  a  man  of  remarkable  intelligence,  of  an  enterprising  character,  and  the 
principal  chief  of  the  company,  immediately  prepared  an  expedition,  with  a  view 
of  forming  a  large  establishment  in  the  north-west.  On  the  3d  of  August,  1763, 
he  started  from  New  Orleans,  and  on  the  3d  of  November  following,  he  reached 
St.  Genevieve,  situated  sixty  miles  south  of  where  St.  Louis  is  actually  built. 

At  that  epoch  the  French  colony,  established  sixty  years  before  in  Illinois,  was 
in  a  surprising  state  of  prosperity.  It  had  considerably  augmented  its  importance 
since  1732,  at  which  period  France  was  beginning  to  realize  her  great  conception 
of  uniting  Canada  to  Louisiana  by  an  extensive  line  of  military  posts,  that  were 


*"  Seven  Years  Residence  in  the  Great  Deserts  of  North  America,  by  the  Abb<»  Km 
Domenech,  Apostolical  Missionary,  Canon  of  Montpellier,  Member  of  the  Pontificial  Ao»<l- 
eray  Tiberina,  and  of  the  Geographical  and  Ethnographical  Societies  of  France,  etc.:  "  in 


two  volumes. 


36 


562 

to  have  been  supported  by  forts,  the  strategic  positions  of  which  were  admirably 
chosen.  But  when  M.  Laclede  arrived  in  the  country,  Louis  XV  had  already  signed 
the  shameful  treaty  by  which  he  ceded  to  England,  in  a  most  blamable  and  incon 
siderate  manner,  one  of  the  finest  regions  of  the  globe,  the  possession  of  which  had 
cost  nearly  a  century  of  efforts,  discoveries,  and  combats,  besides  enormous  sums 
of  money.  By  that  treaty,  which  will  cover  with  eternal  ignominy  the  memory  of 
Louis  XV,  France  yielded  up  to  great  Britain  the  two  Canadies,  the  immense  ter 
ritory  of  the  northern  lakes,  and  the  rich  states  of  Illinois,  Kentucky,  Tennessee, 
Mississippi,  and  Western  Louisiana,  as  far  as  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Britannic  frontiers,  north,  west,  and  south,  were  then  surrounded  by  that 
French  race,  so  antipathetic  to  the  Saxon  one.  It  enveloped  them  by  its  power 
and  its  immense  territory,  by  an  uinterrupted  chain  of  fertile  countries,  which  ex 
tend  from  Canada  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  following  the  interminable  and  rich  val 
ley  of  the  Mississippi,  which  winds  round  the  English  possessions  like  the  coiling 
serpent  whose  innumerable  folds  entwined  the  Laocoon.  Unhappily  for  France, 
the  statesmen  of  her  luxurious  court  were  short-sighted  in  this  matter;  they  did  not 
know  the  value  of  our  transatlantic  dominions,  nor  forsee  what  the  future  might 
do  for  them.  Occupied  with  miserable  palace  intrigues,  they  basely  abandoned  our 
finest  colonies,  and  merely  sought  feebly  to  prolong  their  agony.  Napoleon  him 
self  committed  a  great  fault  when  he  ceded  Louisiana  for  fifteen  millions.  He 
thought  that  a  bird  in  the  hand  was  better  than  two  in  the  bush ;  but  what  a  bush 
he  sold  for  such  a  sum !  Louisiana,  that  of  herself  contains  colossal  wealth,  did 
she  not  give  birth  to  many  powerful  states  by  dismembering  herself?  Did  she  not 
draw  toward  Texas,  Kansas,  New  Mexico,  and  California?  When  one  thinks  of 
this  great  and  irreparable  loss  which  Louis  XV  and  Napoleon  I  caused  France  to 
suffer,  one  can  not  help  sighing  at  the  blindness  of  that  fatal  policy,  which,  for  the 
sake  of  passing  difficulties,  from  pusillanimous  fear,  or  from  the  want  of  perfect 
knowledge  of  the  resources  and  importance  of  the  colonies,  forgets  the  honor  and 
interest  of  the  empire  it  rules. 

It  was  thus  that  in  the  time  of  M.  Laclede,  the  Mississippi  became  the  natural 
boundary  of  the  French  and  English  possessions;  St.  Genevieve  was  the  only 
French  settlement  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  all  the  others,  being  on  the  left, 
were  made  over  to  the  English.  After  a  short  sojourn  in  that  village,  M.  Laclede 
explored  the  country,  and  discovering,  sixty  miles  more  to  the  north,  a  table-land 
seventy-five  feet  above  the  Mississippi,  and  covered  with  forests  and  fertile  ground, 
he  took  possession  of  it  and  laid  the  foundation  of  a  town,  which  he  named  St. 
Louis,  in  the  presence  of  the  French  officers  of  the  Chartres  and  of  two  youn« 
Creoles,  Messrs.  Auguste  and  Pierre  Chouteau.  We  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
the  latter  in  1847,  during  the  festival  celebrated  at  St.  Louis  in  honor  of  Laclede. 

Scarcely  was  the  rising  colony  established,  which  was  augmented  by  French, 
Creole,  and  Illinois  emigrants,  who  would  not  remain  under  the  English  dominion, 
when  it  was  greatly  alarmed  by  the  arrival  of  400  Indians,  who,  without  being  hos 
tile,  were  nevertheless  very  troublesome,  on  account  of  their  continual  demands 
for  provisions  and  the  daily  robberies  they  committed.  M.  Laclede  made  all  pos 
sible  haste  to  rescue  his  establishment  from  the  peril  that  menaced  it,  and  imme 
diately  acted  in  a  manner  that  showed  his  tact  and  his  profound  knowledge  of  the 
Indian  character.  The  chieftains  having  appeared  in  his  presence,  addressed  him 
in  these  terms : 

"  We  are  deserving  of  pity,  for  we  are  like  ducks  and  geese  seeking  clear  water  whereon 
to  rest,  as  also  to  find  an  easy  existence.  We  know  of  no  better  place  than  where  we  are. 
We  therefore  intend  to  build  our  wigwams  around  your  village.  We  shall  be  your  children, 
and  you  will  be  our  father." 

Laclede  put  an  end  to  the  conversation  by  promising  to  give  his  answer  the  next 
day,  which  he  did  in  the  following  manner : 

"  You  told  me  yesterday  that  you  were  like  ducks  and  geese  that  seek  a  fair  country 
wherein  to  rest  and  live  at  ease.  You  told  me  that  you  were  worthy  of  pity  ;  that  you  had 
not  found  a  more  favorable  spot  to  establish  yourselves  in  than  this  one  j  that  you  would 
build  your  village  around  me,  and  that  we  could  live  together  as  friends.  I  shall  now  an 
swer  you  as  a  kind  father:  and  will  tell  you  that,  if  you  imitate  the  ducks  and  geese,  you 
follow  improvident  guides;  for,  if  they  had  any  forethought,  they  would  not  establish 


MISSOURI. 

themselves  on  clear  wa.ter  where  they  may  be  perceived  by  the  eagle  that  will  pounce  on 
them.  It  would  not  have  been  so  had  they  chosen  a  retired  spot  well  shaded  with  trees. 
You,  Missourians,  will  not  be  devoured  by  birds  of  prey,  but  by  the  red  men,  who  have 
fought  so  long  against  you,  and  who  have  already  so  seriously  reduced  your  number.  At 
this  very  moment  they  are  not  far  from  us,  watching  the  English  to  prevent  them  from  tak 
ing  possession  of  their  new  territories.  If  they  find  you  here  they  will  slay  your  warriors 
and  make  your  wives  and  children  slaves.  This  is  what  will  happen  to  you,  if,  as  you  say, 
you  follow  the  example  of  the  ducks  and  geese,  instead  of  listening  to  the  counsels  of  men 
who  reflect.  Chieftains  and  warriors,  think  now,  if  it  is  not  more  prudent  for  you  to  go 
away  quietly  rather  than  to  be  crushed  by  your  enemies,  superior  to  you  in  number,  in  the 
presence  of  your  massacred  sires,  of  your  wives  and  children  torn  to  pieces  and  thrown  to 
the  dogs  and  vultures.  Remember  that  it  is  a  good  father  who  speaks  to  you ;  meditate  on 
what  he  has  said,  and  return  this  evening  with  your  answer." 

In  the  evening  the  entire  tribe  of  the  Missourians  presented  itself  in  a  body  be 
fore  M.  Laclede,  and  announced  to  him  that  its  intention  was  to  follow  his  advice ; 
the  chiefs  then  begged  of  him  to  have  pity  on  the  women  and  children,  by  giving 
them  some  provisions,  and  a  little  powder  to  the  warriors.  M.  Laclede  acceded 
liberally  to  their  request,  and  sent  them  off  next  day  well  supplied  and  happy. 

On  the  17th  of  July,  1755,  M.  de  St.  Ange  de  Bellerive  resigned  the  command 
of  the  frontiers  to  the  English,  and  came  to  St.  Louis  with  his  troops  and  the  civic 
officers.  His  arrival  favored  the  definitive  organization  of  the  colony ;  St.  Louis 
became  the  capital  of  Upper  Louisiana,  and  M.  de  St.  Ange  was  appointed  gov 
ernor  of  the  place.  But  Louis  XV  had  made,  in  1763,  another  treaty,  by  which 
he  ceded  to  Spain  the  remainder  of  our  possessions  in  North  America.  This  treaty, 
kept  secret  during  a  year,  completed  the  measure  of  humiliations  and  losses  that 
France  had  to  endure  under  such  a  reign.  The  official  news  of  it  was  only  re 
ceived  at  New  Orleans  on  the  21st  of  April,  1764,  and  the  consternation  it  spread 
throughout  Upper  and  Lower  Louisiana  was  such  that  the  governor,  M.  d'Abadie, 
died  of  grief.  Serious  disturbances  were  the  consequence,  and  the  tragical  events 
which  took  place  under  the  command  of  Gen.  O'Reilly,  of  sanguinary  memory, 
caused  the  administration  of  Upper  Louisiana  to  remain  in  the  hands  of  the  French 
for  several  years.  It  was  only  on  the  1 1th  of  August,  1768,  that  the  Spanish  troops 
were  able  to  take  possession  of  St.  Louis  for  the  first  time,  and  even  then  they  could 
not  hold  the  position  above  eleven  months.  At  last,  peac*1  being  restored,  the  Span 
iards  again  became  masters  of  all  the  country  in  1770,  five  years  before  the  death 
of  M.  de  St.  Ange,  who  expired  at  St.  Louis  in  1775.  aged  seventy-six  years.  M. 
Laclede  died  at  the  Post  of  the  Arkansas  on  the  20th  of  July,  1778,  leaving  no 
children. 

In  1780,  St.  Louis  was  unsuccessfully  attacked  by  1,000  Indians  and  English 
men,  from  Michillimackinac,  who  had  received  orders  to  seize  upon  the  town  on 
account  of  the  part  the  Spaniards  had  taken  in  the  war  of  American  independ 
ence. 

Spain  never  sought  to  derive  any  advantage  from  the  resources  of  Upper  Louis 
iana  :  it  would  seem  as  if  she  merely  considered  that  mighty  region  as  a  barrier 
against  the  encroachments  of  her  neighbor  on  her  Mexican  possessions.  This 
policy  alone  can  explain  her  indifference  with  regard  to  the  government  of  that 
co.untry.  When  she  took  possession  of  all  the  territory  situated  to  the  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  she  found  there  a  French  population  already  acclimated,  civilized,  and 
inured  to  fatigues,  owing  to  the  long  wars  it  sustained  against  the  English  and  the 
Indians.  The  prospect  of  a  calm  and  peaceable  existence  had  assembled  this  pop 
ulation  on  the  borders  of  Arkansas,  of  the  Mississippi,  and  of  the  Missouri,  where 
it  only  awaited  a  protecting  government,  to  enable  it  to  give  to  industry  and  agri 
culture  all  possible  development  All  that  Spain  had  to  do  was  to  open  markets 
for  its  produce,  and  for  exchanges  with  the  southern  colonies.  This  extensive  em 
pire,  possessing  the  largest  natural  advantages,  bounded  by  the  Mississippi,  the 
Missouri,  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  might  have,  owing  to  the  preponderance  that  it 
could  have  acquired  (as  we  witness  in  our  days),  changed  the  course  of  events 
which  have  taken  place  in  Europe  since  that  epoch.  France  could  not  aspire  to 
such  power  as  long  as  she  possessed  Canada,  but  she  should  have  thought  of  it 
when  she  abandoned  that  colony.  The  immense  results  obtained  by  the  liberal 
institutions  of  the  United  States  show  clearly,  in  the  present  day,  that  the  loss  of 


564  MISSOURI. 

Canada  would  have  turned  to  our  advantage,  and  that  by  developing  the  produce 
of  the  possessions  which  we  still  retained  to  the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  we  hould 
soon  have  been  amply  compensated  for  the  sacrifices  made  in  1763,  after  the  taking 
of  Quebec.  Such  was  the  opinion  of  the  intelligent  men  of  France.  Turgot,  our 
celebrated  statesman,  in  particular,  foresaw  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  such 
a  policy,  and  he  even  submitted  a  plan  to  the  king  by  means  of  which  that  vast  re 
gion  he  called  Equinoctial  France,  was  to  become  densely  populated  in  a  short 
time.  But,  as  M.  Nicollet  observes  in  his  essay  on  the  primitive  history  of  St. 
Louis,  he  was  treated  as  a  visionary. 

What  was  easy  for  France  was  still  much  more  so  for  Spain ;  but  instead  of  adopt 
ing  this  simple  policy — liberal  and  grand  in  its  results — Spain  contented  herself  with 
isolating  the  colonists  and  the  Indians  of  Missouri  and  of  Mississippi,  imposing  an 
arbitrary  government  upon  them,  checking  all  communication  between  the  neigh 
boring  populations;  establishing  restrictions  on  importation,  prohibiting  foreign 
competition,  restricting  emigration,  granting  exclusive  privileges,  and  making, 
without  any  conditions,  concessions  of  lands,  etc.  It  is  not  surprising,  then,  that 
shs  complains  that  her  colonies  cost  her  more  than  she  realized  by  them.  No 
where,  either  in  her  laws  or  in  her  decrees,  is  there  to  be  found  a  plan  adopted 
with  a  view  of  developing  the  natural  and  moral  resources  of  these  countries.  As 
the  government  appeared  only  to  occupy  itself  with  the  exigencies  of  each  day,  in 
like  manner  the  inhabitants  did  not  seem  to  think  of  the  morrow.  The  Creoles  of 
Upper  Louisiana,  who  were  the  descendants  of  a  brave  and  enterprising  nation,  not 
finding  in  this  state  of  things  any  support  for  their  physical  and  moral  faculties, 
penetrated  into  the  depths  of  the  forests,  got  amid  a  multitude  of  savage  tribes 
whom  they  had  not  heard  of  before,  began  to  explore  the  regions  situated  between 
the  Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  created  the  iur  trade  in  that  exten 
sive  portion  of  North  America.  In  this  way  was  formed  that  class  of  intrepid  men 
called  voi/ageurs  or  engages,  of  whom  we  have  already  spoken,  and  who  were  as 
necessary  in  the  plains  of  the  west  as  are  the  Canadian  i*oyageiirs  in  the  frozen 
countries  of  the  north  and  north-west. 

Meanwhile  America  had  attained  her  independence,  and  France  was  commenc 
ing  her  revolution,  when,  all  of  a  sudden,  on  the  9th  of  July,  1803.  at  SPV^-M  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Louis  learned  that  Spain  had  re-ceded  Louis 
iana  to  Napoleon,  who,  in  turn  had  sold  it  to  the  United  States.  We  will  make  no 
remark  on  the  profound  sensation  produced  by  this  unexpected  news.  We  will 
merely  observe  that  the  colonists  could  scarcely  recover  from  their  astonishment 
on  hearing  that  they  had  become  republicans,  and  seeing  a  multitude  of  judges, 
lawyers,  notaries,  tax-gatherers,  etc.,  arriving  among  them.  They  were  even 
less  able  to  understand  that  liberty  which  obliged  them  to  leave  their  homes  to 
vote  at  elections,  or  to  serve  as  jurors.  They  had  allowed  civilization  to  advance 
without  taking  any  notice  of  it.  Their  existence  was  so  isolated,  so  simplified,  that 
they  lost  sight  of  the  advantages  of  social  life.  They  possessed  no  public  schools, 
and  the  missionaries,  being  too  few  in  number,  were  seldom  able  to  visit  or  in 
struct  them  in  their  religious  duties.  The  object  of  their  material  life  did  not  go 
beyond  the  domestic  circle,  the  virtue  and  honesty  of  which  were  proverbial. 
They  knew  nothing  of  notaries,  lawyers,  or  judges;  and  the  prison  remained  empty 
during  thirty  years.  To  give  an  idea  of  the  simplicity  of  the  Creoles,  we  can  not 
do  better  than  relate  an  incident  that  took  place  a  few  years  after  the  cession  of 
Louisiana  to  the  United  States. 

A  Creole  from  Missouri  was  lounging  about  a  sale  of  negro  slaves  on  the  bor 
ders  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Lower  Louisiana.  The  merchant,  who  was  from  Ken 
tucky,  asked  him  if  he  wished  to  buy  anything:  u  Yes,"  replied  the  Missourian, 
"  I  want  a  negro."  Having  made  his  choice,  he  inquired  the  price  of  the  one  he 
selected.  "Five  hundred  piastres,"  replied  the  merchant;  "but,  according  to  cus 
tom,  you  have  one  year  to  pay."  At  this  proposition  the  purchaser  became  em 
barrassed;  the  thought  of  being  liable  to  such  a  debt  during  an  entire  year 
annoyed  him  greatly.  "No,  no!  "  said  he  to  the  merchant,  "I  prefer  paying  you 
at  once  six  hundred  piastres,  and  letting  the  matter  be  ended."  "Very  well,"  said 
the  obliging  Kentuckian,  "I  will  do  anything  you  please  to  make  the  affair  con 
venient  to  you."  And  the  bargain  was  concluded. 


MISSOURI.  5(j5 

The  Spanish  troops  departed  from  Louisiana  on  the  3d  of  November,  1804 
The  American  governor,  W.  H.  Harrison,  who  had  the  chief  command  of  the  In 
dian  territories  of  Upper  Louisiana,  organized  the  civil  and  judicial  power  of  that 
country;  and  on  the  2d  of  July,  1805,  Gen.  James  Wilkinson  established  there, 
by  order  of  congress,  a  territorial  government,  of  which  St.  Louis  was  the  capital. 


The  only  military  event  in  the  annals  of  St.  Louis  was  the  attack  upon  the 
town  by  the  English  and  Indians  from  Mackinaw,  in  1780.  The  citizens 
had  intelligence  the  previous  fall  of  the  contemplated  expedition,  and  there 
upon  fortified  the  town  with  a  rude  stockade  six  feet  high,  made  by  two  rows 
of  upright  palisades,  a  few  feet  apart,  filled  in  between  with  earth.  The  out 
line  of  the  stockade  described  a  semi-circle  around  the  place,  resting  its  ex 
tremities  upon  the  river,  above  and  below  the  town,  flanked  by  a  small  fort 
at  each  extremity.  Three  gates  gave  opening  to  the  country  in  the  rear, 
each  defended  by  a  piece  of  ordnance,  kept  well  charged.  Monette,  in  his 
History  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  gives  these  particulars : 

The  British  commandant  at  Michillimackinac.  hearing  of  the  disasters  of  the  Britieh 
arms  in  Florida,  conceived  the  idea  of  leading  an  expedition  upon  his  own  responsibility 
against  the  Spanish  settlement  of  St.  Louis.  Early  in  the  spring  he  had  assembled  one 
hundred  and  forty  regular  British  troops  and  Canadian  Frenchmen,  and  fourteen  hundred 
Indian  warriors  tor  the  campaign.  From  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Michigan  this 
host  of  savages,  under  British  leaders,  marched  across  to  the  Mississippi,  and  encamped 
within  a  few  miles  of  St.  Louis.  The  town  had  been  fortified  for  temporary  defense,  and 
the  hostile  host  made  a  regular  Indian  investment  of  the  place-  Skirmishes  and  desultory 
attacks  continued  for  several  days,  during  which  many  were  killed,  and  others  were  taken 
captive  by  the  Indians.  Much  of  the  stock  of  cattle  and  horses  belonging  to  the  place 
was  killed  or  carried  off. 

The  people  at  length,  believing  a  general  attack  was  contemplated,  and  having  lost  con 
fidence  in  their  commandant's  courage,  or  in  his  preparations  for  defense,  sent  a  special  re 
quest  to  Col.  Clark,  then  commanding  at  Kaskaskia,  to  come  to  their  aid  with  such  force 
as  he  could  assemble.  Col.  Clark  immediately  made  preparation  to  march  to  their  relief. 
Having  assembled  nearly  five  hundred  men  under  his  command,  he  marched  to  the  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  a  short  distance  below  the  town  of  St.  Louis.  Here  he  remained  en 
camped  for  further  observations.  On  the  sixth  of  May  the  grand  Indian  attack  was  made, 
when  Col.  Clark,  crossing  the  river,  marched  up  to  the  town  to  take  part  in  the  engage 
ment.  The  sight  of  the  Americans,  or  the  "Long -knives,"  as  they  were  called,  under  the 
command  of  the  well-known  Col.  Clark,  caused  the  savages  to  abandon  the  attack  and 
seek  safety  in  flight.  They  refused  to  participate  in  any  further  hostilities,  and  reproached 
the  British  commandant  with  duplicity  in  having  assured  them  that  he  would  march  them 
to  fight  the  Spaniards  only,  whereas  now  they  were  brought  against  the  Spaniards  and  the 
Americans.  They  soon  afterward  abandoned  the  British  standard,  and  returned  to  their 
towns,  near  Lakes  Superior  and  Michigan. 


An  old  settler,  writing  for  the  Missouri  Republican,  in  1826,  and  the  St. 
Louis  Sketch  Book,  gives  these  historical  items: 

A  lapse  of  twenty  years  has  ensued  since  I  first  obtained  a  residence  in  this,  rising 
town.  ...  It  did  not,  when  I  first  knew  it,  appear  to  possess  even  the  germ  of  the 
materials  which  have  since  been  so  successfully  used  in  making  it  the  mart  of  commerce 
and  the  seat  of  plenty.  Then,  with  some  exceptions,  it  was  the  residence  of  the  indolent 
trader  or  trapper,  or  more  desperate  adventurers.  .  .  .  Twenty  years  ago  there  were 
no  brick  buildings  in  St.  Louis.  The  houses  were  generally  of  wood,  built  in  a  fashion 
peculiar  to  the  country,  and  daubed  with  mud.  There  were,  however,  some  of  the  better 
order,  belonging  to  the  first  settlers  of  the  town,  but  whose  massive  walls  of  stone  were 
calculated  to  excite  the  wonder  of  the  modern  beholder,  giving  the  idea  of  an  antique 
fortress.  What  was  then  called  Chouteau's  Hill,  but  which  has  since  lost  that  distinctive 
appellation,  was  nothing  else  than  a  barren  waste,  over  which  the  wind  whistled  in  its  unob 
structed  course,  if  we  except  only  an  occasional  cumbrous  fortification,  intended  for  a  de 
fense,  and  evidencing  the  poverty  of  the  country  in  military  as  in  other  talent.  Then,  and 
for  a  long  while  after,  the  streets  were  intolerably  bad,  resembling  the  roads  in  Ohio,  where 


566  MISSOURI 

it  is  related  of  a  man  that,  his  hat  was  taken  from  his  head  jusfc  as  ho  was  disappearing 
forever  in  the  regions  of  mud. 

Twenty  years  since,  and  down  to  a  much  later  period,  the  commerce  of  the  country,  on 
the  Mississippi,  was  carried  on  in  Mackinaw  batteaux  and  keel  boats.  A  voyage  performed 
in  one  of  the  latter  kind  was  a  fearful  undertaking;  and  the  return  trip  from  New  Orleans 
was  considered  an  expeditious  one  if  made  in  ninety  days.  When  an  increased  commerce 
took  place,  our  streets  were  thronged  with  voyageurs,  of  all  ages,  countries  and  complex 
ions.  They  were  a  source  of  constant  trouble  to  a  weak  and  inefficient  police,  with  whom 
they  delighted  to  kick  up  a  row.  Deprived,  by  the  introduction  of  steamboats,  of  their 
usual  means  of  living,  and  like  the  savage  averse  to  settled  life,  they  have  almost  entirely 
disappeared.  At  the  time  of  which  we  write,  the  traveler  who  made  a  journey  to  the 
Atlantic  states,  did  not  resolve  upon  it  without  mature  deliberation.  .  .  .  It  then  "required 
from  thirty  to  forty  days  to  travel  to  Philadelphia.  .  .  .  The  morals  or  religion  of  the 
people  can  not  be  denned.  They  had,  it  is  true,  vague  notions  of  such  things,  but  they 
were  of  so  quiescent  a  character  as  to  be  easily  set  aside  when  in  opposition  to  their  pleas 
ure  or  interest.  There  was  but  one  church,  and  after  a  resort  to  this  it  was  no  uncommon 
thing  to  pass  the  remainder  of  the  Sabbath  evening  in  dancing  or  whist,  for  St.  Louis  then 
contained,  at  most,  but  a  few  hundred  people." 

"Previous  to  the  year  1829."  says  the  Sketch  Book  of  St.  Louis,  "  there  was  no  Pro 
testant  church  in  St.  Louis,  but  in  that  year  the  first  Presbyterian  church  was  built,  and 
the  Rev.  Artemas  Bullard  engaged  as  the  minister.  «  .  .  There  were  places  where  the 
Methodists,  Presbyterians,  Baptists,  Universalists,  etc.,  held  divine  service,  but  none  of  them 
possessed  church  edifices  until  this  year. 

In  1844,  another  flood,  equaling  that  which  took  place  in  the  days  of  Crusat,  visited  the 
Mississippi.  The  river  rose  rapidly  until  the  entire  American  bottom  was  submerged. 
Steamboats  and  all  descriptions  of  water  craft  were  to  be  seen  winding  their  way  through 
the  woods  opposite  the  city,  conveying  passengers  to  and  from  the  coal  hills  on  the  Illinois 
shore,  a  distance  of  about  twelve  miles.  This  flood  was  very  disastrous  in  its  character, 
almost  totally  destroying  Illinoistown,  which  had  become  a  village  of  several  thousand 
inhabitants.  The  damage  was  immense,  while  not  a  few  lives  were  lost,  thousands  of 
hogs,  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  fowls,  etc.,  were  drowned.  '  Many  who,  before  the  flood,  were 
in  affluent  circumstances,  found  themselves  beggared.  This  was  a  marked  event  upon  the 
trade  of  St.  Louis,  and  she  had  scarcely  recovered  from  the  effects,  when  another  calamity 
betel  her.  Late  in  the  fall  of  1848,  that  dreadful  scourge,  the  cholera,  made  its  appear 
ance;  the  approach  of  cold  weather  stayed  in  a  great  measure  the  ravages  of  disease,  but 
in  the  spring  it  developed  itself  in  full  force.  .  .  .  The  disease  now  assumed  a  more  bold 
and  formidable  appearance,  and  instead  of  stalking  through  dirty  lanes  and  filthy  alleys, 
it  boldly  walked  the  streets.  .  .  .  Funeral  processions  crowded  every  street.  .  .  The  hum 
of  trade  was  hushed.  The  levee  was  a  desert.' 

When  the  disease  was  raging  at  its  fiercest,  the  city  was  doomed  to  another  horror — May 
17,  1843,  it  was  burned — fitteen  squares  were  laid  in  ashes.  The  fire  commenced  on  the 
steamer  White  Cloud.  At  the  commencement  the  wind  was  blowing  stiffly,  forcing  the 
boat  directly  into  shore,  which  circumstance  contributed  seriously  to  the  marine  disaster. 
The  wind  set  into  the  wharf,  and  although  the  cables  of  all  the  boats  were  hauled  in,  and 
they  drifted  out  into  the  current,  yet  the  flaming  vessel  seemed  to  outstrip  them  all  in  the 
speed  with  which  she  traveled  down  stream.  ...  In  a  short  time,  perhaps  thirty  minutes, 
twenty-three  vessels  were  burnt.  .  .  .  Fifteen  blocks  of  houses  were  destroyed  and  in 
jured,  causing  a  loss  of  ten  millions  of  dollars.  Olive-street  was  the  commencement  in 
the  city,  and  with  the  exception  of  one  building,  the  entire  space  down  to  Market-street 
was  laid  in  ruins.  The  progress  of  the  flames  was  stayed  by  blowing  up  a  portion  of  the 
buildings  below  Market-street  with  powder:  in  doing  this,  although  timely  warning  was 
given,  several  persons  lost  their  lives." 

In  July,  1817,  came  the  Gen.  Pike,  the  first  steamer  which  arrived  at  St.  Louis.  She 
was  commanded  by  Capt.  Jacob  Reed,  and  was  built  on  Bear  Grass  Creek,  near  Louisville. 
In  li-'47,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  city's  birth,  a  miniature  representation  of  the  boat  was 
exhibited,  and  became  the  most  curious  feature  of  the  celebration,  as  showing  the  changes 
in  steamboat  architecture.  "  This  miniature  representation  was  about  twenty  feet  long; 
the  hull  that  of  a  barge,  and  the  cabin  on  the  lower  deck  run  up  on  the  inside  of  the  run 
ning  board.  The  wheels  were  exposed,  being  without  a  wheel-house — she  was  propelled 
by  a  low  pressure  engine,  with  a  single  chimney  and  a  large  walking  beam.  The  crew 
were  supplied  with  poles,  and  where  the  current  proved  too  strong  for  the  steam,  they  used 
the  poles,  as  on  keel  boats,  to  help  her  along.  It  was  mounted  on  wheels,  and  drawn  by 
eight  white  horses.  The  boat  was  manned  by  a  crew  of  steamboat  captains,  who  appeared 
in  the  dress  usually  worn  by  the  officers  and  men  in  their  various  stations." 


MISSOURI. 


567 


Bloody  Island,  opposite  St.  Louis,  near  the  Illinois  shore  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad.  It  received  its 
name  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  the  dueling  ground  for  this  region. 
It  is  within  the  limits  of  Illinois,  and  at  the  time  of  high  freshets  is  par 
tially  covered  with  water.  It  has  a  growth  of  large  forest  trees.  This  spot 
was  selected  by  duelists  from  its  being  neutral  ground :  the  island  was  for 

some  time  disputed  territory  between  the  states 
of  Illinois  and  Missouri.  A  fatal  contest  of 
this  kind  ensued  between  Thomas  Biddle,  of 
St.  Louis,  and  one  of  his  friends,  in  which  both 
were  killed.  The  origin  of  the  duel  seems  to 
have  been  some  jocose  remark  made  by  the 
antagonist  of  Mr.  Biddle  in  regard  to  his  (Mr. 
Biddle's)  family  affairs.  Mrs.  Biddle  foolishly 
considering  herself  insulted,  gave  her  husband 
no  rest  until  he  had  challenged  the  author  of 
the  remark  to  mortal  combat.  Having  passed 
over  to  Bloody  Island,  they  fought  at  the  dis 
tance  of  some  three  or  four  paces  apart,  and 
both  fell  mortally  wounded.  Mrs.  Biddle, 
overwhelmed  at  the  fatal  consequences  of  her 
attempt  to  avenge  her  injured  feelings,  devoted 
the  remainder  of  her  life  to  penitence,  and  her 
fortune  to  charity.  The  annexed  engraving  is 
a  view  of  a  monument  erected  in  memory  of 
husband  and  wife,  on  the  premises  of  St.  Mary's 
Orphan  Asylum,  on  Tenth-street,  under  the  charge  of  the  order  of  the 
"Daughters  of  Charity."  The  monument  is  about  20  feet  high :  the  follow 
ing  words  are  affixed  over  the  door,  "Pray  for  the  souls  of  Thomas  and  Anne 
Biddle." 

The  following  inscriptions  are  from  monuments  within  the  city  limits: 

In  memory  of  one  whose  name  needs  no  eulogy,  JOSEPH  M.  WHITE,  late  Delegate  in  Con 
gress  from  the  Territory  of  Florida.  Born  in  Franklin  county,  Kentucky,  8th  of  Oct.,  1798, 
died  in  St.  Louis,  at  the  residence  of  his  brother,  Thomas  J.  White,  M.D.,  the  19th  day  of 
October,  1839. 

THOMAS  BARBOUK,  M.D.,  son  of  the  Hon.  P.  P.  Barbour,  of  Virginia.  Born  Aug.  26, 
1810,  and  died  June  18,  1849.  In  all  the  relations  of  life,  he  illustrated  the  strength  and 
beauty  of  Christian  principle — ardent  affection,  generous  friendship,  and  fervent  charity 
were  the  spontaneous  emotions  of  a  heart  imbued  with  the  holy  desire  of  glorifying  God 
and  doing  good  to  man.  As  a  practitioner  of  medicine  he  had  attained  a  distinguished 
eminence.  With  the  Medical  Department  of  the  University  of  Missouri,  his  name  is  asso 
ciated  as  one  of  its  founders  and  most  able  and  faithful  teachers.  With  the  early  history 
of  the  Central  Presbyterian  Church,  of  which  he  was  an  Elder,  his  name  is  recorded  as  one 
of  its  brightest  ornaments. 


BIDDLE  MONUMENT,  ST.  Louis. 

Over  the  door  are  the  words,  Pray  for 
the  souls  of  Thomas  and  Anne  Biddle. 


JEFFERSON  CITY,  the  capital  of  Missouri  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
Missouri  River,  on  elevated,  uneven  and  somewhat  rocky  ground,  125  miles 
W.  of  St.  Louis.  It  contains  the  state  house,  a  state  penitentiary,  the  gov 
ernor's  house,  several  schools,  5  churches,  2  banks,  and  about  3,500  inhabit 
ants,  of  whom  near  one  half  are  Germans  or  of  German  orgin.  The  state 
house  is  built  of  stone,  at  an  expense  of  $250,000,  and  presents  a  magnifi 
cent  appearance  as  it  is  approached  sailing  up  the  river  from  the  eastward. 


r>fi8 


MISSOURI. 


Over  the  door  of  the  main  entrance  of  the  capitol  is  the  following  inscrip 
tion  : 

"  Erected  Anno  Domini,  1838.  L.  W.  Boggs,,  Governor;  P.  C.  Glover,  Sec'y  of  State  ;  H. 
H.  Baber,  Aud.  Pub.  Accts ;  W.  B.  Napton,  Att'y  General ;  A.  McClellan,  Treasurer,  Com 
missioners.  S.  Hills,  Architect." 


East  view  <>f  Jefferson  City. 


The  view  annexed  presents  the  appearance  of  the  Capitol  and  other  buildings,  as  the  city  is  entered 
npoii  the  Pacific  Railroad.  The  bluff  shown  is  80  feet  high,  and  on  its  summit  is  the  residence  of  Gen.  J. 
L.  Minor,  formerly  secretary  of  the  state.  The  Railroad  Depot  is  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff  on  the  left ;  the 
Capitol  on  Capitol  Hill  is  in  the  central  part,  at  the  base  of  which  is  the  Ferry  and  City  Landing. 

The  first  white  persons  who  located  themselves  within  the  limits  of  Jefferson  City  were 
John  Wier  and  a  Dr.  Brown.  Wier,  who  appears  to  have  been  a  squatter,  built  his  cabin 
on  the  spot  where  J.  T.  Rogers'  (late  mayor)  house  now  stands.  Wier's  Creek,  at  the  foot 
ot'  Capitol  Hill,  was  named  after  him  Dr.  Brown,  said  to  have  been  from  Ireland,  located 
himself  on  the  declivity  of  Capitol  Hill.  William  Jones,  a  bricklayer,  kept  the  first  ferry 
and  house  of  entertainment  at  this  place;  he  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  Thomas  Rogers,  the 
lather  of  the  mayor.  Dr.  Stephen  C.  Dorris,  father  of  Dr.  A.  P.  Dorris,  was  the  first  reg 
ular  physician:  he  was  succeeded  by  Dr.  Bolton,  and  he  in  turn  by  Dr.  Mills.  Robert  A. 
Ewing  (afterward  judge  of  the  county  court),  was  the  first  resident  lawyer.  Judge  Wells 
was  the  next.  Robert  Jones  was  the  first  merchant:  he  had  his  store  at  the  base  of  the 
Capitol  Hill,  near  the  ferry  and  city  wharf.  Among  his  purchases  was  that  of  two  or  three 
barrels  of  coffee,  which  at  that  time  was  considered  a  bold  and  hazardous  speculation,  as 
it  was  supposed  it  would  take  a  long  period  to  sell  such  an  amount. 

The  first  school  was  taught  by  Jesse  F.  Roys,  an  itinerant  teacher  from  North  Carolina; 
he  was  succeeded  by  Hiram  H.  Baber,  Esq.,  a  native  of  Virginia,  and  now,  with  one  ex 
ception,  the  oldest  inhabitant  of  Jefferson  City.  The  school  house  was  about  half  way 
between  the  railroad  depot  and  the  penitentiary.  Jason  Harrison,  Esq.,  the  first  clerk  of 
Cole  county,  was  a  native  of  Maryland;  he  came  into  Missouri  in  1811,  and  into  Jefferson 
City  in  1831.  The  first  brick  structure  erected  was  a  one  story  building,  16  feet  square, 
built  by  Wm.  Jones,  and  occupied  as  the  state  treasury  office:  it  stood  opposite  the  Metho 
dist  Church.  The  first  state  house  was  built  of  brick,  by  Reuben  Garnett,  and  stood  in 
a  lot  adjoining  the  governor's  house.  It  was  accidentally  burnt  in  Nov.,  1837,  and  all  the 
state  papers,  except  those  in  the  auditor's  office  destroyed.  The  seat  of  government  was 
located  in  1821,  laid  out  in  1822,  and  the  first  sale  of  lots  was  made  in  1823.  The  first 
trustees  of  the  town  were  Adam  Hope,  John  C.  Gordon,  and  Josiah  Ramsay,  jr.  The  first 
governor  resident  in  Jefferson  City,  was  John  Miller,  and  a  man  of  great  wealth.  He  died 
while  member  of  Congress,  and  was  buried  at  St.  Louis. 


MISSOURI.  569 

The  first  printing  press  was  started  here  in  1826,  by  Calvin  Ounn,  who,  it  is  believed, 
was  from  Connecticut.  It  was  called  the  "Jeffersonian  Republican."  The  first  house  for 
,  public  worship  here  was  erected  by  the  Methodists  and  Baptists:  this  was  in  18.'j8.  The 
Episcopal  church  was  erected  in  1842;  the  first  resident  Episcopal  clergyman  was  Rev. 
Win.  L.  Hommann.  The  first  Presbyterian  church  was  built  about  the  year  1845,  and  tho 
first  resident  clergyman  was  Rev.  Hiram  S.  Goodrich,  D.D.,  from  the  eastern  states,  who 
came  here  about  1843.  The  Catholics,  who  are  the  largest  religious  body  in  the  city, 
erected  their  first  house  of  worship  in  1847:  their  present  handsome  structure  was  built  iu 
1857.  The  state  penitentiary  was  opened  about  1835:  the  first  warden  was  Gen.  Lewis 
Bolton,  and  for  about  three  months  he  had  but  one  convict  under  his  charge,  who  was  put 
here  for  horse  stealing  or  some  kindred  crime.  This  prisoner  was  much  delighted  when 
the  next  convict  arrived,  for  he  was  quite  weary  of  solitude. 

The  Missouri  River  is  about  1,000  yards  wide  at  this  place,  its  ordinary  current  three 
and  a  half  miles  an  hour,  and  its  fall  four  inches  to  the  mile.  The  ordinary  rise  of  water 
here  is  from  10  to  15  feet  above  low  water  mark.  The  highest  floods  occur  annually  in 
June,  like  the  annual  overflow  of  the  Nile  in  Egypt.  It  is  caused  by  the  melting  of  the 
snow  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  nearly  3,000  miles  distant.  One  of  the  greatest  rise  of 
waters  known  was  on  the  24th  of  June,  1844,  at  which  time  the  water  rose  thirty  feel  above 
low  water  mark. 

In  this  section  the  principal  fish  are  the  cat,  buffalo,  and  shovel  fish:  sturgeon  are  also 
taken.  The  cat  fish  ordinarily  weigh  from  3  to  25  Ibs.  In  some  instances  they  have  been 
known  to  weigh  200  Ibs.  The  method  by  which  they  are  taken  is  called  "'jugging  for 
cats."  A  single  line  about  four  feet  in  length,  having  a  hook  baited  with  flesh,  is  attached 
to  the  handle  of  a  gallon  jug  and  then  thrown  into  the  middle  of  the  current  of  the  river. 
When  the  bait  is  swallowed  it  is  known  by  the  sinking  of  the  jug,  which  acts  like  a  cork: 
the  fisherman  thereupon  takes  up  the  line  and  secures  the  fish.  The  fisherman's  usual 
method  is  to  go  up  the  stream,  throw  in  his  jugs,  and  float  down  with,  them,  hugging  the 
shore  with  his  boat,  so  as  to  be  in  a  position  to  closely  watch  his  jugs,  of  which  he  can 
generally  oversee  some  10  or  12  at  a  time. 


The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  Jefferson 
City  graveyard: 

Erected  by  the  State  of  Missouri  to  the  memory  of  Gov.  THOMAS  REYNOLDS,  who  died 
Feb.  9,  18-14,  aged  48  years.  He  was  born  in  Bracken  county,  Kentucky,  March  12,  1796  : 
in  early  life  he  became  a  citizen  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  and  there  filled  the  several  offices 
of  Clerk  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  Attorney  General,  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Rep 
resentatives,  and  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court.  In  1829,  he  removed  to  the  State 
of  Missouri,  and  was  successively  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  Judge  of  the 
Second  Judicial  Circuit,  and  died  Governor  of  the  State.  His  life  was  one  of  honor,  virtue 
and  patriotism,  and  in  every  situation  in  which  he  was  placed,  he  discharged  his  duty  faith 
fully. 

In  memory  of  PETER  G.  GLOVER,  born  in  Buckingham*  county,  Va.,  Jan.  14,  1792;  died 
in  Osage  county,  Oct.  27,  1851,  and  lies  buried  here.  He  emigrated  to  Kentucky  in  early 
life,  then  to  Missouri,  where  he  filled  the  important  public  offices  of  the  Justice  of  the 
County  Court,  Representative  from  Callaway,  Senator  from  Cole,  Auditor  of  Public  Ac 
counts,  Superintendent  of  Common  Schools,  and  Treasurer  of  the  State,  to  the  satisfaction 
of  the  people.  As  a  father,  husband,  and  friend,  he  was  without  reproach. 


WM.  A.  ROBARDS,  late  Attorney  General  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  born  in  Ky.,  May  3, 
1817;  died  Sept.  3,  1851.  Erected  by  the  State  of  Missouri,  of  which  he  was  a  worthy  cit 
izen,  and  its  able  and  faithful  officer,  having  filled  several  offices  of  public  trust. 

New  Madrid,  the  seat  of  New  Madrid  county,  is  on  the  Mississippi,  150 
miles  below  St.  Louis,  in  the  south-eastern  corner  of  the  state,  and  has  about 
1,000  inhabitants.  This  is  one  of  the  old  towns  of  Missouri,  and  the  earliest 
American  settlement  west  of  the  Mississippi  River.  Through  the  diplomatic 
talents  of  Colonel  Wilkinson,  the  Spanish  governor  of  Louisiana  was  induced 
to  adopt  a  policy  of  conciliation  to  the  western  people,  in  hopes  of  attaching 
them  to  the  Spanish  government,  and  so  forming  a  political  union  with  tho 


570  MISSOURI. 

Louisianians,  that  should  terminate  in  a  dismemberment  of  the  east  from  the 
west,  and  an  incorporation  of  the  latter  under  the  Spanish  crown.  Says 
Monette : 

The  first  step  toward  the  a  "omplishment  of  this  desirable  object  was  the  plan  of  form 
ing  American  settlements  in  Upper  Louisiana,  as  well  as  in  the  Florida  district  of  Lower 
Louisiana.  A  large  American  settlement  was  to  be  formed  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mis 
sissippi,  between  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  the  St.  Francis  River.  General  Morgan,  an 
American  citizen,  received  a  large  grant  of  land  about  seventy  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio,  upon  which  he  was  to  introduce  and  settle  an  American  colony.  Soon  afterward 
and  in  1788,  General  Morgan  arrived  with  his  colony,  and  located  it  about  seventy  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  upon  the  ancient  alluvions  which  extend  westward  to  the 
Whitewater  Creek,  within  the  present  county  of  New  Madrid,  in  Missouri.  Here,  upon 
the  beautiful  rolling  plains,  he  laid  off  the  plan  of  a  magnificent  city,  which,  in  honor  of 
the  Spanish  capital,  he  called  "  New  Madrid."  The  extent  and  plan  of  the  new  city  was 
but  little,  if  any,  inferior  to  the  old  capital  which  it  was  to  commemorate.  Spacious 
streets,  extensive  public  squares,  avenues,  and  promenades  were  tastefully  laid  off  to  mag 
nify  and  adorn  the  future  city.  In  less  than  twelve  months  from  its  first  location,  it  had 
assumed,  according  to  Major  Stoddart,  the  appearance  of  a  regularly  built  town,  with  nu 
merous  temporary  houses  distributed  over  a  high  and  beautiful  undulatory  plain.  Its  lati 
tude  was  determined  to  be  36  deg.  30  min.  north.  In  the  center  of  the  site,  and  about  one 
mile  from  the  Mississippi,  was  a  beautiful  lake,  to  be  inclosed  by  the  future  streets  of  the 
city. 

This  policy  was  continued  for  nearly  two  years,  in  hopes  of  gaining  over  the  western 
people  to  an  adherence  to  the  Spanish  interests.  Nor  was  it  wholly  unsuccessful.  In  the 
meantime,  many  individuals  in  Kentucky,  as  well  as  on  the  Cumberland,  had  become  fa 
vorably  impressed  toward  a  union  with  Louisiana  under  the  Spanish  crown,  and  a  very 
large  portion  of  them  had  been  highly  dissatisfied  with  the  policy  of  the  Federal  govern 
ment,  because  it  had  failed  to  secure  for  them  the  free  navigation  of  the  river,  either  by 
formal  negotiation  or  by  force  of  arms.  But  this  state  of  mitigated  feeling  toward  the 
Spanish  authorities  was  of  but  short  duration. 

New  Madrid  was  nearly  ruined  by  the  great  earthquakes  of  the  winter 
of  1811-12,  it  being  the  center  of  the  most  violent  shocks.  The  first 
occurred  in  the  night  of  15th  Dec.,  1811,  and  they  were  repeated  at  in 
tervals  for  two  or  three  months,  being  felt  from  Pittsburg  to  New  Orleans. 
By  them  the  Little  Prairie  settlement,  thirty  miles  below  this  place,  was  en 
tirely  broken  up,  and  Great  Prairie  nearly  ruined.  The  graveyard  at  New 
Madrid,  with  its  sleeping  tenants,  was  precipitated  into  the  river,  and  the 
town  dwindled  to  insignificance  and  decay.  Thousands  of  acres  in  this  sec 
tion  of  the  country  sunk,  and  multitudes  of  ponds  and  lakes  were  created  in 
their  places.  "The  earth  burst  in  what  are  called  sand  blows.  Earth,  sand, 
coal,  and  water  were  thrown  up  to  great  hights  in  the  air."  The  Mississippi 
was  dammed  up  and  flowed  backward ;  birds  descended  from  the  air,  and 
took  refuge  in  the  bosoms  of  people  that  were  passing.  The  whole  country 
was  inundated.  A  great  number  of  boats  that  were  passing  on  the  river 
were  sunk,  and  whole  crews  perished  ;  one  or  two  that  were  fastened  to  islands 
went  down  with  them.  The  country  being  but  sparsely  settled,  and  the  build 
ings  mostly  logs,  the  loss  of  life  was  less  than  it  otherwise  would  have  been. 
Col.  John  Shaw  gives  these  reminiscences  of  this  event.* 

While  lodging  about  thirty  miles  north  of  New  Madrid,  on  the  14th  of  December,  1811, 
about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  occurred  a  heavy  shock  of  an  earthquake.  The  house 
where  I  was  stopping,  was  partly  of  wood  and  partly  of  brick  structure;  the  brick  portion 
all  fell,  but  I  and  the  family  all  fortunately  escaped  unhurt.  At  another  shock,  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  February,  1812, 1  was  in  New  Madrid,  when  nearly 
two  thousand  people,  of  all  ages,  fled  in  terror  from  their  falling  dwellings,  in  that  place 

*"  Personal  Narrative  of  Col.  John  Shaw,  of  Marquette  county,  Wisconsin,"  published 
in  the  Collections  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Wisconsin. 


MISSOURI.  571 

and  the  surrounding  country,  and  directed  their  course  about  thirty  miles  north  to  Ty  wap- 
pety  Hill,  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  about  seven  miles  back  from  the  river 
This  was  the  first  high  ground  above  New  Madrid,  and  here  the  fugitives  formed  an  en 
campment.  It  was  proposed  that  all  should  kneel,  and  engage  in  supplicating  God's  mercy, 
and  all  simultaneously,  Catholics  and  Protestants,  knelt  and  offered  solemn  prayer  to  their 
Creator. 

About  twelve  miles  back  toward  New  Madrid,  a  young  woman  about  seventeen  years 
of  age,  named  Betsey  Masters,  had  been  left  by  her  parents  and  family,  her  leg  having 
been  broken  below  the  knee  by  the  falling  of  one  of  the  weight-poles  of  the  roof  of  the 
cabin;  and,  though  a  total  stranger,  I  was  the  only  person  who  would  consent  to  return  and 
see  whether  she  still  survived.  Receiving  a  description  of  the  locality  of  the  place,  I 
started,  and  found  the  poor  girl  upon  a  bed,  as  she  had  been  left,  with  some  water  and 
corn  bread  within  her  reach.  I  cooked  up  some  food  for  her,  and  made  her  condition  as 
comfortable  as  circumstances  would  allow,  and  returned  the  same  day  to  the  grand  en 
campment.  Miss  Masters  eventually  recovered. 

In  abandoning  their  homes,  on  this  emergency,  the  people  only  stopped  long  enough  to 
get  their  teams,  and  hurry  in  their  families  and  some  provisions.  It  was  a  matter  of  doubt 
among  them,  whether  water  or  fire  would  be  most  likely  to  burst  forth,  and  cover  all  the 
country.  The  timber  land  around  New  Madrid  sunk  five  or  six  feet,  so  that  the  lakes  and 
lagoons,  which  seemed  to  have  their  beds  pushed  up,  discharged  their  waters  over  the  sunken 
lands.  Through  the  fissures  caused  by  the  earthquake,  were  forced  up  vast  quantities  of 
a  hard,  jet  black  substance,  which  appeared  very  smooth,  as  though  worn  by  friction.  It 
seemed  a  very  different  substance  from  either  anthracite  or  bituminous  coal.* 

This  hegira,  with  all  its  attendant  appalling  circumstances,  was  a  most  heart-rending 
scene,  and  had  the  effect  to  constrain  the  most  wicked  and  profane,  earnestly  to  plead 
to  God  in  prayer  for  mercy.  In  less  than  three  months,  most  of  these  people  returned  to 
their  homes,  and  though  the  earthquakes  continued  occasially  with  less  destructive  effects, 
they  became  so  accustomed  to  the  recurring  vibrations,  that  they  paid  little  or  no  regard 
to  them,  not  even  interrupting  or  checking  their  dances,  frolics,  and  vices. 

Father  Cartwright,  in  his  autobiography,  gives  us  some  facts  to  show  that 
the  earthquakes  proved  an  element  of  strength  to  the  Methodists.  He  tells 
us: 

In  the  winter  of  1812  we  had  a  very  severe  earthquake;  it  seemed  to  stop  the  current 
of  the  Mississippi,  broke  flatboats  loose  from  their  moorings,  and  opened  large  cracks  or 
fissures  in  the  earth.  This  earthquake  struck  terror  to  thousands  of  people,  and  under  the 
mighty  panic  hundreds  and  thousands  crowded  to,  and  joined  the  different  churches. 
There"  were  many  very  interesting  incidents  connected  with  the  shaking  of  the  earth  at 
this  time;  two  I  will  name.  I  had  preached  in  Nashville  the  night  before  the  second 
dreadful  shock  came,  to  a  large  congregation.  Early  the  next  morning  I  arose  and  walked 
out  on  the  hill  near  the  house  where  I  had  preached,  when  I  saw  a  negro  woman  coming 
down  the  hill  to  the  spring,  with  an  empty  pail  upon  her  head.  (It  is  very  common  for 
negroes  to  carry  water  this  way  without  touching  the  pail  with  either  hand.)  When  she 
got  within  a  few  rods  of  where  I  stood,  the  earth  began  to  tremble  and  jar;  chimneys  were 
thrown  down,  scaffolding  around  many  new  buildings  fell  with  a  loud  crash,  hundreds  of 
the  citizens  suddenly  awoke,  and  sprang  into  the  streets;  loud  screaming  followed,  for 
many  thought  the  day  of  judgment  was  come.  The  young  mistresses  of  the  above-named 
negro  woman  came  running  after  her,  and  begging  her  to  pray  for  them.  She  raised  the 
shout  and  said  to  them,  "  My  Jesus  is  coming  in  the  clouds  of  heaven,  and  I  can't  wait  to 
pray  for  you  now;  I  must  go  and  meet  him.  I  told  you  so,  that  he  would  come,  and  you 
would  not  believe  me.  Farewell.  Hallelujah!  Jesus  is  coming,  and  I  am  ready.  Halle 
lujah!  Amen."  And  on  she  went,  shouting  and  clapping  her  hands,  with  the  empty  pail 
on  her  head. 

Near  Russellville,  Logan  county,  Kentucky,  lived  old  Brother  Valentine  Cook,  of  very 
precious  memory,  with  his  wife  Tabitha.  Brother  Cook  was  a  graduate  at  Cokesbury  Col 
lege  at  an  early  day  in  the  history  of  Methodism  in  these  United  States.  He  was  a  very 
pious,  successful  pioneer  preacher,  but,  for  the  want  of  a  sufficient  support  for  a  rising  and 
rapidly  increasing  family,  he  had  located,  and  was  teaching  school  at  the  time  of  the  above 

*The  late  Hon.  Lewis  F.  Linn,  a  resident  of  St.  Genevieve,  and  for  many  years  a  mem 
ber  of  the  United  States  senate  from  Missouri,  and  a  man  of  science,  addressed  a  letter,  in 
1836,  to  the  chairman  of  the  committee  on  commerce,  in  which  he  speaks  of  the  New  Mad 
rid  earthquakes,  and  distinctly  mentions  water,  sand,  and  coal  issuing  from  the  vast  chasms 
opened  by  the  convulsions. 


572  MISSOURI. 

named  earthquake.  He  and  his  wife  were  in  bed  when  the  earth  began  to  shake  and  trem 
ble.  He  sprang  out  of  bed,  threw  open  the  door,  and  began  to  shout,  and  started,  with 
nothing  on  but  his  night-clothes.  He  steered  his  course  east,  shouting  every  step,  saying, 
"  My  Jesus  is  coming."  His  wife  took  after  him,  and  at  the  top  of  her  voice  cried  out, 
"O  Mr.  Cook,  don't  leave  me." 

"0  Tabby,"  said  he,  "  my  Jesus  is  coming,  and  I  can  not  wait  for  you  ; "  and  on  he 
went,  shouting  at  every  jump,  "My  Jesus  is  coming;  I  can't  wait  for  you,  Tabby." 

The  years  of  the  excitement  by  these  earthquakes  hundreds  joined  the  Methodist  Epis 
copal  Church,  and  though  many  were  sincere,  and  stood  firm,  yet  there  were  hundreds  that 
no  doubt  had  joined  them  from  mere  fright. 

The  earthquake  gave  Tecumseh,  the  Shawnee  chieftain,  the  reputation  of 
a  prophet  among  the  Indians  of  Alabama.  A  few  months  previous  to  this 
event,  he  was  on  his  mission  to  the  southern  Indians,  to  unite  all  the  tribes 
of  the  south  with  those  of  the  north  in  his  grand  scheme  of  exterminating 
the  whole  white  race  from  the  wide  extent  of  the  Mississippi  valley — from 
the  lakes  of  the  north  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Drake,  in  his  memoir  of  Te 
cumseh,  gives  this  anecdote: 

On  his  return  from  Florida,  Tecumseh  went  among  the  Creeks  m  Alabama,  urging  them 
to  unite  with  the  Seminoles.  Arriving  at  Tuckhabatchee,  a  Creek  town  on  the  Tallapoosa 
River,  he  made  his  way  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  called  the  Big  Warrior.  He  explained 
his  object,  delivered  his  war  talk,  presented  a  bundle  of  sticks,  gave  a  peace  of  wampum 
and  a  hatchet;  all  which  the  Big  Warrior  took.  When  Tecumseh,  reading  the  intentions 
and  spirit  of  the  Big  Warrior,  looked  him  in  the  eye,  and  pointing  his  finger  toward  his 
face,  said:  "  Your  blood  is  white;  you  have  taken  my  talk,  and  the  sticks,  and  the  wam 
pum,  arid  the  hatchet,  but  you  do  not  mean  to  fight;  I  know  the  reason;  you  do  not  be 
lieve  the  Great  Spirit  has  sent  me;  you  shall  know;  I  leave  Tuckhabatchee  directly,  and 
shall  go  straight  to  Detroit;  when  I  arrive  there,  I  will  stamp  on  the  ground  with  my  foot, 
and  shake  down  every  house  in  Tuckhabatchee."  So  saying,  he  turned  and  left  the  Big 
Warrior  in  utter  amazement,  at  both  his  manner  and  his  threat,  and  pursued  his  journey. 
The  Indians  were  struck  no  less  with  his  conduct  than  was  the  Big  Warrior,  and  began  to 
dread  the  arrival  of  the  day  when  the  threatened  calamity  would  befall  them.  They  met 
often  and  talked  over  this  matter,  and  counted  the  days  carefully,  to  know  the  time  when 
Tecumseh  would  reach  Detroit.  The  morning  they  had  fixed  upon,  as  the  period  of  his 
arrival,  at  last  came.  A  mighty  rumbling  was  heard — the  Indians  all  ran  out  of  their 
houses — the  earth  began  to  shake;  when  at  last,  sure  enough,  every  house  in  Tuckhabat 
chee  was  shaken  down!  The  exclamation  was  in  every  mouth,  "  Tecumseh  has  got  to 
Detroit!  "  The  effect  was  electrical.  The  message  he  had  delivered  to  the  Big  Warrior 
was  believed,  and  many  of  the  Indians  took  their  rifles  and  prepared  for  the  war.  The 
reader  will  not  be  surprised  to  learn  that  an  earthquake  had  produced  all  this;  but  he  will 
be,  doubtless,  that  it  should  happen  on  the  very  day  on  which  Tecumseh  arrived  at  Detroit; 
and,  in  exact  fulfillment  of  his  threat.  It  was  the  famous  earthquake  of  New  Madrid. 


LEXINGTON,  the  county  seat  of  Fayette,  is  situated  for  the  most  part  on 
high  grounds,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Missouri.  The  bluffs  at  the  landing 
being  about  200  feet  above  the  river,  the  city  is  but  partially  seen  from  the 
decks  of  passing  steamers.  It  is  125  miles  above  Jefferson  City,  and  250 
from  St.  Louis.  It  contains  the  county  buildings,  8  churches,  the  Masonic 
College,  a  flourishing  institution,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Masonic  fra 
ternity  of  the  state,  and  about  5,000  inhabitants. 

Fayette,  the  county  in  which  Lexington  is  situated,  ranks  the  second  in 
wealth  in  Missouri.  Hemp  is  the  most  important  production.  Inexhausti 
ble  beds  of  bituminous  coal  are  found  in  almost  every  part  of  the  county, 
and  the  soil  is  rich  and  fertile.  The  Messrs.  McGrew's  establishment  for  the 
manufacture  of  bale  rope,  at  Lexington  landing,  is  admirably  constructed. 
The  hemp  is  unloaded  at  the  upper  story,  and  passes  through  the  various 
stages  of  its  manufacture,  till  it  comes  out  bales  of  rope,  ready  for  transpor 
tation  to  marke^  in  the  warehouse  below.  The  machinery  is  moved  by 


MISSOURI. 


573 


steam,  the  coal  to  produce  which  is  dug  out  of  the  earth  a  few  feet  only  from 
the  building.     Eight  tuns  of  rope  can  be  manufactured  daily. 


View  of  Lexington  Landing. 

The  engraving  shows  the  appearance  of  the  steamboat  landing  as  it  appears  from  the  point  on  the 
opposite  side  of  Missouri  River.  The  Messrs.  M'Grevv's  Hemp  Factory,  Flouring  Mill,  etc.,  are  seen  in 
the  central  part ;  the  road  to  the  city  back  from  the  bluffs  appears  on  the  left ;  the  places  from  whence 
coal  is  taken  on  the  right. 

Lexington  was  originally  laid  out  about  a  mile  back  from  the  river,  which,  at  that  period, 
was  hardly  considered  fit  for  navigation,  goods  being  principally  transported  by  land.  The 
present  city,  being  an  extension  of  the  old  town,  was  commenced  in  1839.  At  that  time, 
the  site  on  which  the  present  court  house  stands  was  a  cornfield,  owned  by  James  Aull, 
brother  to  Robert  Aull,  the  president  of  the  Bank  of  Lexington,  both  of  whom  were  na 
tives  of  New  Castle,  Del.  The  first  court  house  was  erected  in  tile  ancient  part  of  Lex 
ington,  and  is  now  occupied  as  a  Female  Seminary,  a  flourishing  institution  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Baptists.  The  first  house  of  worship  in  Lexington,  was  erected  about 
1831  or  1832,  by  the  Cumberland  and  the  Old  School  Presbyterians.  It  was  a  small  frame 
building,  which  stood  a  few  rods  west  of  the  old  court  house.  Rev.  John  L.  Yantis,  now 
president  of  the  Theological  College  at  Richmond,  was  one  of  the  first  preachers.  The 
inhabitants  previously  attended  public  worship  in  the  country,  back  from  the  river.  The 
Baptist  and  Methodist  churches  were  erected  in  184U.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  recent 
structure;  the  first  minister  who  officiated  was  Rev.  St.  Michael  Fackler,  now  a  missionary 
in  Oregon.  The  Dutch  Reformed  Church  bought  their  meeting  house  of  the  Christians 
or  Campbellite  Baptists,  in  1856. 

The  first  regular  public  house  in  the  modern  part  of  Lexington,  was  the  house  next  the 
residence  of  Robert  Aull,  the  president  of  the  bank,  on  the  summit  of  the  bluff'.  This 
spot  commands  an  extensive  prospect  up  and  down  the  river,  showing  Wellington,  8  miles 
distant,  also  Camden,  in  Ray  county,  some  8  or  10  miles  distant  in  a  direct  line,  but  18  by 
the  river.  The  first  regular  ferryman  was  William  Jack,  a  Methodist  class  leader  and  ox- 
horter,  a  man  much  esteemed  for  his  Christian  life  and  conversation.  In  1827,  C.  R.  More- 
head,  cashier  of  the  Farmer's  Bank,  built  and  loaded  the  first  flatboat,  in  which  he  trans 
ported  the  first  tobacco  raised  for  export  in  the  county.  This  cargo,  which  consisted  of 
forty-six  hogsheads,  with  a  quantity  of  bees-wax  and  peltries,  was  sent  to  New  Orleans. 
The  first  goods  brought  by  steamboats  came  in  1828,  by  the  steamer  William  Duncan. 

In  1838,  at  the  period  of  the  Mormon  war,  as  it  was  called,  Lexington  contained  some  500 
inhabitants.  The  Mormons  first  located  themselves  in  Jackson  county,  about  35  miles 
west.  They  afterward  effected  a  more  permanent  settlement  in  Caldwell  county.  At  first 
they  were  enabled  to  live  peaceably  with  their  neighbors.  In  1838,  difficulties  arising,  the 
governor  of  Missouri  gave  orders  for  their  expulsion.  A  conflict  took  place  in  Ray  county, 
iii  which  Patten,  a  Mormon  leader  and  elder  was  killed,  and  a  number  wounded.  During 
this  period  it  was  quite  a  time  of  alarm  in  this  section,  and  the  inhabitants  of  Lexington 
fled  to  Richmond  for  safety. 

Wm  Downing  is  believed  to  have  been  the  first  innkeeper  in  the  ancient  part  of  Lexing 
ton.  Win.  Todd  was  the  first  judge  of  the  circuit  court;  the  present  judge,  Russ  el  Hicks, 


574 


MISSOURI. 


who  first  came  into  the  county  about  the  year  1825,  hired  himself  out  to  a  farmer  for  about 
tea  dollars  a  month.  He  afterward  became  a  school  teacher,  and  while  studying  law,  he 
supported  himself  by  this  occupation. 

The  following  inscriptions  are  copied  from  monuments  in  the  graveyard  in 
this  place: 

In  memory  of  REV.  FINIS  EWING,  born  in  Bedford  county,  Va.,  July  10,  1773,  died  in 
Lexington,  Mo.,  July  4,1841.  He  was  a  Minister  of  the  Gospel  for  forty-five  years  j  was 
one  of  the  fathers  and  founders  of  the  Cumberland  Presbyterian  Church. 

In  memory  of  Reverend  JESSE  GREENE,  born  Nov.  29,  A.D.  1791,  died  April  18,  A.D. 
1847.  A  pure  Christian,  a  wise  Counsellor,  a  faithful  Minister,  a  Pioneer  of  Methodism  in 
Missouri,  part  in  the  Council  and  Itinerant  labors  of  his  Church,  and  fell  at  his  post.  "  I 
heard  a  voice  from  heaven,  saying  write,  Blessed  are  the  dead  who  die  in  the  Lord ;  Yea, 
eaith  the  Spirit,  their  works  do  follow  them."  Rev.  xiv,  13.  The  members  of  the  Saint 
Louis  Annual  Conference  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South  have  erected  this  mon 
ument  over  his  remains,  A.D.  1850. 

L.  A.  GEISWOLD,  Hebe  of  Prudence  Constellation,  No.  34,  A.A.R.,  surrendered  her  crown 
on  Earth  to  be  crowned  with  immortal  glory  in  Heaven.  In  memory  of  Lockie  A.  Gris- 
wold,  wife  of  Sylvanus  A.  Griswold,  completed  her  errand  of  Mercy  here,  and  was  per 
mitted  to  behold  the  Light  of  the  Seraphic  world,  which  ever  inspired  her  with  fraternal 
excellence,  at  10  o'clock,  P.M.,  Sept.  27,  1856. 


North-eastern  view  of  Kansas  City. 

Showing  the  appearance  of  Kansas  City,  at  the  Landing,  as  seen  from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Missouri. 
The  forest  shown  in  the  distance,  beyond  the  point  of  the  bluff  on  the  right,  is  within  the  territorial  limits 
of  Kansas.  The  Ferry  Landing  and  the  old  Jail  or  Calaboose  appear  on  the  left. 

KANSAS  CITY  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  Kansas  River,  at  the  western 
boundary  line  between  the  state  of  Missouri  and  Kansas,  282  miles  westward 
of  Jefferson  City,  456  from  St.  Louis,  and  109  southerly  from  St.  Joseph,  on 
the  Missouri.  It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  line  of  the  Pacific  Railroad. 
A  bluff,  about  120  feet  above  high  water  mark,  extends  along  the  river  for 
about  a  mile  within  the  city  limits.  The  principal  part  of  the  town  is  situ 
ated  immediately  back  of  the  bluff,  through  which  roads  are  being  cut  to  the 
levee  in  front.  This  city  is  the  great  depot  for  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  and  it  is 


MISSOURI.  575 

estimated  that  one  fourth  ef  all  the  shipments  up  the  Missouri  River,  from 
its  mouth  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  received  here.  Kansas  City  was  in 
corporated  in  1853.  Population  ahout  8,000. 

As  far  back  as  the  days  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,  or  the  first  expeditions  of  the  vari 
ous  trapping  companies  of  the  French  and  the  old  pioneers  of  the  west,  the  site 
of  Kansas  City  has  been  a  prominent  point  for  the  business  of  the  old  trappers  and 
traders,  who  have  had  many  a  business  transaction  around  their  camp  fires  under 
the  bluffs  of  the  "Kawsmouth"  as  this  spot  was  formerly  called. 

The  principal  portion  of  the  land  inclosed  by  the  old  city  limits  was  entered  by 
Gabriel  Prudhomme,  an  old  mountain  trader.  The  selection,  survey,  and  first  sale 
of  the  lots  was  made  in  1838.  The  survey  was  but  a  partial  one,  and  owing  to 
some  disagreement,  nothing  was  done  by  the  stockholders  except  the  erection  of  a 
few  cabins.  In  1846,  the  town  was  re-surveyed  by  J.  C.  McCoy,  Esq.,  and  the 
growth  of  the  city  may  be  dated  as  commencing  from  that  year.  Within  eighteen 
months  after  the  first  sale  of  lots,  there  was  a  population  of  about  700.  The  pro 
prietors  of  the  town  were  J.  C.  McCoy,  Wm.  Gilliss,  Robert  Campbell,  H.  Jobe, 
W.  B.  Evans,  Jacob  Ragan,  and  Fry  P.  McGee. 

The  first  house  erected  in  Kansas  City  was  a  log  cabin,  which  stood  on  the  site 
of  the  building  in  which  the  Western  Journal  of  Commerce  is  issued.  This  cabin 
was  erected  in  1839,  by  Thomas  A.  Smart,  as  a  trading  house.  The  second  build 
ing  was  erected  by  Anthony  Richers,  a  native  of  Germany,  who  was  educated  for 
the  Catholic  ministry.  Father  Bernard  Donnelly,  a  native  of  Ireland  and  a  Cath 
olic,  is  believed  to  have  been  the  first  clergyman  who  officiated  in  public  worship ; 
he  preached  in  a  log  building,  now  used  as  a  school  house,  near  Broadway,  about 
half  a  mile  back  from  the  steamboat  landing.  The  first  physician  was  Dr.  Benoist 
Troost,  of  Holland,  formerly  a  surgeon  under  Napoleon.  The  first  postmaster  was 
William  Chick,  who  for  a  time  kept  the  office  in  the  top  of  his  hat.  "  One  eyed 
Ellis"  as  he  was  familiarly  called,  appears  to  have  been  the  first  lawyer,  who,  it 
is  stated,  employed  his  leisure  time  in  "picking  up  stray  horses."  Wm.  B.  Evans 
kept  the  first  tavern,  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Levee-streets.  The  first  newspapers 
were  the  "Kansas  Ledger,"  first  issued  in  1852,  and  the  "Western  Journal  of 
Commerce,"  first  issued  in  Aug.,  1854,  under  the  name  of  the  "Kansas  City  En 
terprise." 

A  great  portion  of  the  early  trade  of  the  city  was  with  the  Indians,  mountain 
and  Mackinaw  traders,  boatmen,  etc.  Poneys,  pelts,  furs,  etc.,  were  received  in 
exchange  for  powder,  lead,  tobacco,  coffee,  etc.  The  first  and  principal  warehouses 
in  town  were  erected  in  1847.  Col.  E.  C.  McCarty,  in  company  with  Mr.  Russell, 
started  the  first  train  from  Kansas  City  to  New  Mexico ;  old  Mr.  McDowell  took 
the  charge  of  it,  and  was  the  first  man  that  ever  crossed  the  American  Desert  in 
a  wagon.  The  following  is  extracted  from  the  Annals  of  the  City  of  Kansas,  pub 
lished  in  1858: 

The  New  Mexico,  or,  as  it  is  generally  known,  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  is  said  to  have  first 
began  at  Boonville,  or  Old  Franklin,  as  early  as  the  year  1824.  Mr.  Monroe,  Philip 
Thompson,  the  Subletts  of  St.  Louis  and  Jackson  counties,  Nat.  Semes,  and  others,  were 
among  the  first  men  ever  engaged  in  the  trade.  The  idea  of  taking  or  sending  goods  to  New 
Mexico,  was  first  suggested  to  these  gentlemen  by  the  richness  and  thick  settlements  of  this 
valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  Del  Norte.  When  returned  to  the  states,  they  commenced  mak 
ing  preparations  to  forward  goods  to  this  valley.  How  to  get  thei /merchandise  there, 
without  being  at  an  almost  ruinous  expense,  was  the  most  important  subject  of  considera 
tion.  Finally,  having  resolved  to  go — to  make  the  experiment  at  all  hazards,  they  started, 
taking  out  their  freight  as  best  they  could,  some  in  one  horse  wagons,  some  in  carts,  some 
on  pack-mules,  and,  on  dit,  with  packs  on  their  backs.  They  were  successful — a  better 
trade  was  found  than  they  anticipated — more  goods  were  sent  out,  with  better  carriage  fa 
cilities,  and  in  a  few  years  large  fortunes  were  realized.  In  1845,  Messrs.  Bent  and  St. 
Vrain  landed  the  first  cargo  of  goods  at  Kansas  City,  that  was  ever  shipped  from  this 
point  to  New  Mexico  in  wagons  that  went  out  in  a  train.  This  train  consisted  of  eighteen 
wagons,  with  five  yoke  of  cattle  to  the  wagon,  and  about  5,000  Ibs.  of  freight  to  each 
team.  A  great  excitement  was  extant.  Mexican  commerce  had  given  new  life  to  border 
trade.  Gradually  the  business  with  New  Mexico  became  concentrated  at  points  on  the  river. 
From  1832  to  1848,  or  1850,  our  neighbor  city,  Independence,  had  the  whole  command  of 


576 


MISSOURI. 


this  great  trade.  Her  merchants  amassed  fortunes,  and  the  business  generated  by  this 
prosperous  intercourse,  built  up  Independence  into  one  of  the  most  flourishing  and  beauti 
ful  towns  in  the  west. 

During  these  years,  from  1832  to  1848,  some  few  mountain  and  Mexican  goods  were 
landed  among  the  cottonwoods  below  our  city.  Messrs.  Bent  &  St.  Vrain  are  amor  g  the 
oldest  freighters  engaged  in  transporting  goods  over  the  Great  Plains;  in  1834,  they  landed 
a  small  shipment  of  mountain  goods  at  Mr.  Francois  Chouteau's  log  warehouse,  near  the 
island  just  east  of  the  city.  In  1846  our  citizens  then  had  what  they  thought  to  be  quite 
a  large  and  respectable  trade  with  New  Mexico,  and  the  next  year,  1847,  it  is  conceded 
that  Kansas  City  fairly  divided  this  great  trade  with  the  city  of  Independence;  and  since 
1850,  Kansas  City  has  had  the  exclusive  benefit  of  all  the  shipping,  commission,  storage, 
repairing  and  outfitting  business  of  the  mountains  and  New  Mexico,  save,  perhaps,  a  lew 
wagons  that  have  been  loaded  and  outfitted  at  Independence  by  her  own  merchants. 


A   Train  crossing  the  Great  Plains. 

From  the  most  reliable  information  we  can  obtain,  it  is  estimated  that  there  are  at  least 
three  hundred  merchants  and  freighters  now  engaged  in  the  New  Mexico  and  mountain 
commerce.  Properly,  in  this  connection,  may  be  inserted  a  few  remarks  concerning  our 
mountain  traffic  and  importations. 

Some  of  our  leading  merchants  for  years  have  had  trading  houses  established  in  tho 
mountains,  where  they  constantly  keep  a  large  stock  of  goods  to  trade  with  the  Indians, 
who  pay  for  these  goods  with  their  annuity  money,  with  buffalo  robes,  with  furs,  pelts, 
hides,  and  Indian  ornamental  fabrics. 

This  trade  done  in  the  mountains,  creates  large  importations  of  the  above  mountain 
products  to  our  city.  In  1857,  the  following  importations  were  made:  Robes,  furs,  etc., 
$267,253  52;  Mexican  wool,  $129,600;  goat  skins,  $25,000;  dressed  buckskins,  $62,500; 
dry  hides,  $37,500;  peltries,  $36,000.  Like  the  transport  of  Mexican  goods,  these  imports 
come  to  us  as  the  cargoes  of  the  great  mountain  trains  or  caravans. 

Train  is  only  another  word  for  caravan.  These  caravans,  then,  consist  of  from  forty  to 
eighty  large  canvas  covered  wagons,  with  from  fifty  to  sixty-five  hundred  pounds  of 
freight  to  each  wagon — also,  six  yoke  of  oxen  or  five  span  of  mules  for  every  wagon — 
two  men  as  drivers  for  every  team,  besides  supercargoes,  wagon  masters,  etc.,  who  gener 
ally  ride  on  horseback.  When  under  way,  these  wagons  are  about  one  hundred  feet  apart, 
and  as  each  wagon  and  team  occupies  a  space  of  about  ninety  or  one  hundred  feet,  a  train 
<>f  eighty  wagons  would  stretch  out  over  the  prairie  for  a  distance  of  a  trifle  over  three 
miles.  In  1857,  9,884  wagons  left  Kansas  City  for  New  Mexico.  Now,  if  these  wagons 
were  all  in  one  train,  they  would  make  a  caravan  223  miles  long,  with  98,840  mules  and 
oxen,  and  freighting  an  amount  of  merchandise  equal  to  59,304,000  Ibs. 


A  recent  visitor  at  Kansas  City  gives  some  valuable  items  : 
Just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas,  and  between  it  and  the  highlands  on  which  Kansas 


MISSOURI.  577 

C:*Y  Is  located,  is  an  extent  of  level  bottom  land,  embracing  some  fifty  acres,  and  covered 
pparsely  with  trees.  This  is  the  camping  ground  of  the  immense  caravans  of  Russell, 
ii-.jors  &  Co.  We  found  several  acres  covered  with  the  enormous  wagons  that  are  used 
it:  the  prairie  trade.  Here  is  also  an  immense  stable  for  the  horses,  mules,  etc.,  and  a 
place  of  deposit  for  feed  for  the  thousands  of  oxen.  It  was  to  me  something  of  a  sight  to 
tee  such  a  number  of  land  ships.  They  will  carry  from  seven  to  ten  thousand  pounds,  and 
are  drawn  by  from  thrjee  to  six  yokes  of  oxen.  They  are  covered  when  loaded,  so  as  10 
protect  the  goods  from  the  rains.  1  examined  them,  and  found  them  made  many  hundreds 
of  miles  to  the  east.  I  saw  a  large  number  which  came  from  Michigan.  They  are  strong, 
heavily  ironed  and  massive  wagons. 

The  commercial  business  of  the  town  is  mostly  transacted  on  the  levee.  The  solid 
blocks  of  warehouses  receive  the  goods  from  the  steamers,  and  from  them  they  are  loaded 
into  the  immense  wagons  and  taken  to  their  final  destination.  Here  is  the  landing  and 
the  starting  place  for  the  vast  trade  to  Santa  Fe  and  New  Mexico.  One  of  the  singular 
features  in  the  streets  is  the  large  number  of  Mexicans,  or  as  every  body  here  calls  them, 
"greasers,"  with  their  trains  of  mules,  loading  for  their  far  distant  homes.  Kansas  City 
has  been  the  starting  place  |or  this  trade  for  thirty  years.  Many  of  the  citizens  have  be 
come  wealthy  by  it,  and  the  evidences  of  prosperity  and  thrift  around  us  are  traceable  to 
the  effects  of  this  Santa  Fe  trade.  I  do  not  see  any  cause  that  can  disturb  this  in  the  fu 
ture.  Heavy  loads  of  goods  and  merchandise  of  all  kinds  are  brought  from  St.  Louis  and 
the  east,  on  steamers,  to  this,  the  last  and  the  nearest  point  to  the  Territory  of  New  Mex 
ico,  and  as  this  business  must  increase  with  the  settlement  of  the  country  to  the  west  and 
south-west,  the  permanence  of  the  prosperity  of  this  city  seems  to  be  fixed. 

These  "greasers  "  are  a  hard  looking  set  of  men.  They  are  a  sort  of  compromise  be 
tween  the  Indian  and  negro,  with  now  arid  then  a  touch  of  Spanish  blood.  They  are  gen 
erally  short  and  small,  quite  dark,  very  black  straight  hair,  generally  hanging  about  their 
faces.  Their  national  hat  is  a  low  crowned  slouch  looking  concern.*  They  wear  girdles, 
with  knives,  etc.,  convenient  for  use.  Altogether  they  look  like  an  ignorant,  sensual, 
treacherous,  thieving  and  blood-thirsty  set,  which  is  very  much  the  character  they  bear 
among  the  people  of  this  city. 

Kansas  City,  being  in  Missouri,  has  a  few  slaves,  but  they  are  fast  disappearing.  Some 
forty  were  shipped  off  in  one  g;>ng  this  spring  for  the  southern  market.  The  original  set 
tiers  were  Southerners  and  slaveholders,  but  the  northern  element  has  been  pouring  in 
upon  them  till  a  large  proportion  of  the  business  men  are  now  from  the  free  states.  There 
is  now  no  talk  about  slavery,  all  are  engaged  in  a  more  sensible  business— building  up 
the  city. 

ST.  JOSEPH,  the  most  populous  and  flourishing  place  in  north-western 
Missouri,  is  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Missouri,  565  miles  N.W.  from 
St.  Louis,  391  from  Jefferson  City,  and  206,  by  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph 
Railroad,  from  the  Mississippi.  The  city  is  for  the,  most  part  on  broken  and 
uneven  ground,  called  the  Black  Snake  Hills,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  rich 
and  fertile  country.  There  are  7  churches,  2  female  seminaries,  2  daily  and  3 
weekly  papers  published  here.  There  are  several  steam  sawing  and  grist  mills 
and  other  extensive  manufacturing  establishments.  The  Catholic  Female 
Seminary  of  this  place  stands  on  a  commanding  elevation  back  from  the  city, 
and  is  seen  from  down  the  river  at  a  great  distance.  The  completion  of  the 
Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad  makes  this,  at  present,  the  most  western 
point  in  the  United  States  reached  by  the  great  chain  of  railroads,  and  has 
opened  a  new  era  in  its  prosperity.  It  is  now  the  central  point  for  all  west 
ern  travel.  The  Great  Salt  Lake  mail,  the  Pike's  Peak  express,  and  the 
Pony  express,  taking  dispatches  to  San  Francisco  in  eight  days,  all  start  from 
this  place.  Population  about  10,000. 

The  city  of  St.  Joseph  was  founded  by  Joseph  Robidoux,  a  native  of  St. 
Louis,  and  of  French  descent.  Mr.  Robidoux  first  visited  this  place  in  1803, 
as  an  Indian  trader,  being  in  connection  at  that  time  with  the  American  Fur 
Company.  He  was  forty  days  in  sailing  up  the  Missouri  from  St.  Louis,  and 
camped  out  every  night  on  shore  with  his  boatmen,  about  a  dozen  in  number. 
The  Indians  lived  on  the  city  grounds  till  they  removed  to  the  opposite  bank 
37 


578 


MISSOURI. 


of  the  river,  about  25  miles  above.  He  erected  his  first  trading  house  5  a 
1831,  about  two  miles  below  the  city.  In  1833,  he  built  a  second  tradin;: 
house  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  City  Hotel:  and  in  1838  pre-empted 
the  site  of  the  city. 


South  view  of  St.  Joseph. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  the  city,  as  it  is  approached  from  the  south  by  the  Missouri  River. 
The  Court  House,  in  the  central  part,  stands  on  an  elevation  of  about  200  feet ;  the  Railroad  from  Haru.i- 
bal  enters  the  city  on  the  rich  bottom  lands  on  the  right.  The  sand  bank  seen  in  the  view  on  the  left,  is 
within  the  limits  of  Kansas. 

The  town  was  laid  off  in  1843.  The  first  resident  clergyman  in  the  place 
was  a  Catholic,  Rev.  Thomas  Scanlan,  and  the  first  public  worship  was  held 
in  the  house  of  Mr.  Julius  C.  Robidoux,  the  first  postmaster  in  the  place. 
Mr.  R.'s  first  office  was  west  of  the  Black  Snake  Creek,  and  he  was  the  first 
regular  merchant  in  St.  Joseph.  Rev.  T.  S.  Reeve,  the  next  minister,  first 
preached  in  a  log  house  on  the  corner  of  Third  and  Francis-streets.  The 
first  settlers  were  principally  from  Indiana,  Kentucky  and  Ohio.  Among 
the  first  settlers  were  Col.  Samuel  Hall,  Capt.  Wm.  H.  Hanson  and  William 
Ewing,  from  Kentucky ;  Capt.  John  Whitehead  and  James  Cargill,  from 
Virginia;  Frederick  W.  Smith,  from  St.  Louis;  and  Michael  Rogers,  from 
Ireland.  Daniel  Gr.  Keedy,  from  Maryland,  was  the  first  physician.  Jona 
than  M.  Bassett,  James  B.  Gardenhire,  and  Willard  P.  Hall,  were  among  the 
first  lawyers.  Mrs.  Stone,  a  widow  lady,  opened  the  first  school.  The  first 
tavern  was  kept  by  David  St.  Clair,  from  Indiana,  who  came  here  in  1843. 
Jeremiah  Lewis,  from  Kentucky,  was  the  first  ferryman. 

Weston,  a  flourishing  commercial  town,  on  the  Missouri  River,  about  4 
miles  above  Fort  Leavenworth,  is  the  river  port  for  Platte  county,  about  225 
miles  W.  N.W.,  by  the  road,  from  Jefferson  City,  and  upward  of  500  by 
water  from  St.  Louis.  Its  frontier  position  renders  it  a  favorable  position 
for  emigrants  starting  for  California  and  other  points  west.  It  was  first  settled 
in  1838.  The  great  emigration  westward  of  late  years,  has  much  increased 
the  activity  of  trade  at  this  point.  Two  newspapers  are  published  here. 
Population  about  3,500. 


MISSOURI.  579 

Independence,  the  county  seat  of  Jackson,  is  important  as  one  of  the  start 
up  points  in  the  trade  to  New  Mexico,  and  other  places  westward.  It  is 
about  five  miles  back  from  the  Missouri  River,  and  165  miles  W.  by  N.  from 
Jefferson  City.  It  was  laid  out  in  1828,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  most  beau 
tiful  and  fertile  country,  abundantly  supplied  with  pure  water.  Population 
about  3,500. 


Hannibal. 

HANNIBAL,  Marion  county,  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  is  15 
miles  below  Quincy,  111.,  and  153  above  St.  Louis.  It  is  a  nourishing  town 
and  the  shipping  port  of  a  large  quantity  of  hemp,  tobacco,  pork,  etc., 
raised  in  the  vicinity.  Stone  coal,  and  excellent  limestone  for  building  pur 
poses,  are  abundant.  Its  importance,  however,  is  principally  derived  from 
it?  being  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad,  a 
line  extending  directly  across  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  and  which,  at 
this  point,  connects  this  great  western  railroad  with  the  system  of  railroads 
eastward  of  the  Mississippi.  Hannibal  was  laid  out  in  1819,  and  incorpor 
ated  in  1839.  It  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  towns  on  the  Mississippi,  has 
numerous  manufacturing  establishments,  an  increasing  commerce,  and  about 
8,000  people. 


Col.  John  Shaw,  in  his  personal  narrative,  relates  some  incidents  that 
occurred  in  this  section  of  Missouri  in  the  war  of  1812.  He  acted  as  a 
scout  on  this  frontier.  We  here  quote  from  him: 

The  Upper  Mississippi  Indians,  of  all  tribes,  commenced  depredations  on  the 
frontiers  of  Missouri  and  Illinois,  in  1811,  and  early  in  1812.  Several  persons 
wore  killed  in  different  quarters.  About  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Salt 
River,  and  fully  a  hundred  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  was  Gilbert's  Lick, 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  a  place  of  noted  resort  for  animals  and 
cattle  to  lick  the  brackish  water ;  and  where  a  man  named  Samuel  Gilbert,  from 
Virginia,  had  settled  two  or  three  years  prior  to  the  spring  of  1812.  In  that  region, 
and  particularly  below  him,  were  a  number  of  other  settlers.  About  the  latter 
part  of  May,  1812,  a  party  of  from  twelve  to  eighteen  Upper  Mississippi  Indians 
descended  the  river  in  canoes,  and  fell  upon  the  scattered  cabins  of  this  upper  set 
tlement  in  the  night,  and  killed  a  dozen  or  more  people. 

This  massacre  in  the  Gilbert's  Lick  settlement,  caused  great  consternation  along 
the  Missouri  frontier,  and  the  people,  as  a  matter  of  precaution,  commenced  fort- 
ins;.  Some  seven  or  eight  forts  or  stockades  were  erected,  to  which  a  portion  of 
the  inhabitants  resorted,  while  many  others  held  themselves  in  readiness  to  flee 
there  for  safety,  in  case  it  might  be  thought  necessary.  I  remember  the  nanut  of 


580 


MISSOURI. 


Stout's  Fort,  Wood's  Fort,  a  small  stockade  at  what  is  now  Clarksville,  Fort  How 
ard,  and  a  fort  at  Howell's  settlement — the  latter  nearest  to  Col.  Daniel  Boone;  b'?/ 
thi  people  bordering  immediately  on  the  Missouri  River,  being  less  exposed  to  dan 
geT,  did  not  so  early  resort  to  the  erection  of  stockades. 

About  this  time,  probably  a  little  after,  while  I  was  engaged  with  eighteen  or 
twenty  men  in  building  a  temporary  stockade  where  Clarksville  now  stands,  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  a  party  of  Indians  came  and  killed  the  entire 
family  of  one  O'Neil,  about  three  miles  above  Clarksville,  while  O'Neil  himself  was 
employed  with  his  neighbors  in  erecting  the  stockade.  In  company  with  O'Neil 
and  others,  I  hastened  to  the  scene  of  murder,  and  found  all  killed,  scalped,  and 
horribly  mangled.  One  of  the  children,  about  a  year  and  a  half  old,  was  found 
literally  baked  in  a  large  pot  metal  bake  kettle  or  Dutch  oven,  with  a  cover  on ;  and 
a  a  there  were  no  marks  of  the  knife  or  tomahawk  on  the  body,  the  child  must  have 
been  put  in  alive  to  suffer  this  horrible  death;  the  oil  or  fat  in  the  bottom  of  the 
kefcle  was  nearly  two  inches  deep. 

I  went  to  St.  Louis,  in  company  with  Ira  Cottle,  to  see  Gov.  Clark,  and  ascertain 
whether  war  had  been  actually  declared.  This  must  have  been  sometime  in  June, 
but  the  news  of  the  declaration  of  war  against  Great  Britain  had  not  yet  reached 
th$ce.  On  our  return,  1  was  strongly  urged  by  the  people  to  act  as  a  spy  or  scout 
on  the  frontier,  as  1  was  possessed  of  great  bodily  activity,  and  it  was  well  known 
that  I  had  seen  much  woods  experience.  1  consented  to  act  in  this  capacity  on 
tho.  frontiers  of  St.  Charles  county,  never  thinking  or  troubling  myself  about  any 
pecuniary  recompense,  and  was  only  anxious  to  render  the  distressed  people  a  use- 
i'ul  service.  I  immediately  entered  alone  upon  this  duty,  sometimes  mounted,  and 
sometimes  on  foot,  and  carefully  watching  the  river  above  the  settlements,  to  dis- 
cor«r  whether  any  Indians  had  landed,  and  sometimes  to  follow  their  trails,  learr* 
their  destination,  and  report  to  the  settlements. 

Upon  my  advice,  several  of  the  weaker  stockades  were  abandoned,  for  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  around,  and  concentrated  at  a  place  near  the  mouth  of  Cuivre  or  Cop 
per  River,  at  or  near  the  present  village  of  Monroe;  and  there  a  large  number  of 
us.,  perhaps  some  sixty  or  seventy  persons,  were  some  two  or  three  weeks  employed 
in  the  erection  of  a  fort.  We  named  it  in  honor  of  the  patriotic  governor,  Benja 
min.  Howard,  and  between  twenty  and  thirty  families  were  soon  safely  lodged  in 
Fort  Howard.  The  fort  was  an  oblong  square,  north  and  south,  and  embraced 
about  half  an  acre,  with  block  houses  at  all  the  corners  except  the  south-east  one. 

As  the  war  had  now  fairly  commenced,  an  act  of  congress  authorized  the  rais 
ing  of  six  companies  of  Rangers;  three  to  be  raised  on  the  Missouri  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  other  three  on  the  Illinois  side.  The  Missouri  companies  were 
commanded  by  Daniel  M.  Boone,  Nathan  Boone,  and  David  Musick.  1  he  commis 
sion  of  Nathan  Boone  was  dated  in  June,  1812,  to  serve  a  year,  as  were  doubtless 
the  others. 

The  Indians,  supplied  by  their  British  employers  with  new  rifles,  seemed  bent 
on  exterminating  the  Americans — always,  however,  excepting  the  French  and 
Spaniards,  who,  from  their  Indian  intermarriages,  were  regarded  as  friends  and 
connections.  Their  constant  attacks  and  murders,  led  to  offensive  measures. 

Of  the  famous  Sink  Hole  battle,  fought  on  the  24th  of  May,  1814,  near  Fort  How« 
ard,  I  shall  be  able  to  give  a  full  account,  as  I  was  present  and  participated  in  it. 
Capt.  Peter  Craig  commanded  at  Fort  Howard ;  he  resided  with  his  father-in-law, 
Andrew  Ramsey,  at  Cape  Girardeau,  and  did  not  exceed  thirty  years  of  age. 
Drakeford  Gray  was  first  lieutenant.  Wilson  Able,  the  second,  and  Edward  Spears. 
third  lieutenant. 

About  noon,  five  of  the  men  went  out  of  the  fort  to  Byrne's  deserted  house  on 
the  bluff,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  fort,  to  bring  in  a  grindstone.  In 
consequence  of  back  water  from  the  Mississippi,  they  went  in  a  canoe ;  and  on 
their  return  were  fired  on  by  a  party  supposed  to  be  fifty  Indians,  who  were  under 
shelter  of  some  brush  that  grew  along  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  near  Byrne's  house, 
and  about  fifteen  rods  distant  from  the  canoe  at  the  time.  Three  of  the  whites 
were  killed,  and  one  mortally  wounded;  and  as  the  back  water,  where  the  canoe 
was,  was  only  about  knee  deep,  the  Indians  ran  out  and  tomahawked  their  vic 
tims. 


MISSOURI. 


581 


The  people  in  the  fort  ran  out  as  quick  as  possible,  and  fired  across  the  back 
water  at  the  Indians,  but  as  they  were  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off,  it  was  of 
course  without  effect.  Capt.  Craig  with  a  party  of  some  twenty-five  men  hastened 
in  pursuit  of  the  Indians,  and  ran  across  a  point  of  the  back  water,  a  few  inches 
deep;  while  another  party,  of  whom  1  was  one,  of  about  twenty -five,  ran  to  the 
right  of  the  water,  with  a  view  of  intercepting  the  Indians,  who  seemed  to  be  mak 
ing  toward  the  bluff  or  high  plain  west  and  north-west  of  the  fort.  The  party  with 
which  I  had  started,  and  Capt.  Craig's  soon  united. 

Immediately  on  the  bluff  was  the  cultivated  field  and  deserted  residence  of  Ben 
jamin  Allen,  the  field  about  forty  rods  across,  beyond  which  was  pretty  thick  tim 
ber.  Here  the  Indians  made  a  stand,  and  here  the  fight  commenced.  Both  parties 
treed,  and  as  the  firing  waxed  warm,  the  Indians  slowly  retired  as  the  whites  ad 
vanced.  After  this  fighting  had  been  going  on  perhaps  some  ten  minutes,  the  whites 
were  reinforced  by  Capt.  David  Musick,  of  Cape  au  Gris,  with  about  twenty  men. 
Capt  Musick  had  been  on  a  scout  toward  the  head  of  Cuivre  River,  and  had  re 
turned,  though  unknown  at  Fort  Howard,  to  the  Crossing  of  Cuivre  River,  about  a 
mile  from  the  fort,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  scene  of  conflict;  and  had 
stopped  with  his  men  to  graze  their  horses,  when  hearing  the  firing,  they  instantly 
remounted  and  dashed  toward  the  place  of  battle,  and  dismounting  in  the  edge  of 
the  timber  on  the  bluff,  and  hitching  their  horses,  they  rushed  through  a  part  of 
the  Indian  line,  and  shortly  after  the  enemy  fled,  a  part  bearing  to  the  right  of  the 
Sink  Hole  toward  Bob's  Creek,  but  the  most  of  them  taking  refuge  in  the  Sink 
Bole,  which  was  close  by  where  the  main  fighting  had  taken  place.  About  the 
time  the  Indians  were  retreating.  Capt.  Craig  exposed  himself  about  four  feet  be 
yond  his  tree,  and  was  shot  through  the  body,  and  fell  dead;  James  Putney  was 
killed  before  Capt.  Craig,  and  perhaps  one  or  two  others.  Before  the  Indians  re 
tired  to  the  Sink  Hole,  the  fighting  had  become  animated,  the  loading  was  done 
quick,  and  shots  rapidly  exchanged,  and  when  one  of  our  party  was  killed  or 
wounded,  it  was  announced  aloud. 

This  Sink  Hole  was  about  sixty  feet  in  length,  and  about  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
wide,  and  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep.  Near  the  bottom  on  the  south-east  side,  was  a 
shelving  rock,  under  which  perhaps  some  fifty  or  sixty  persons  might  have  shel 
tered  themselves.  At  the  north-east  end  of  the  Sink  Hole,  the  descent  was  quite 
gradual,  the  other  end  much  more  abrupt,  and  the  south-east  side  was  nearly  per 
pendicular,  and  the  other  side  about  like  the  steep  roof  of  a  house.  On  the  south 
east  side,  the  Indians,  as  a  further  protection  in  case  the  whites  should  rush  up, 
dug  under  the  shelving  rock  with  their  knives.  On  the  sides  and  in  the  bottom  of 
the  Sink  Hole  were  some  bushes,  which  also  served  as  something  of  a  screen  for 
the  Indians. 

Capt.  Musick  and  his  men  took  post  on  the  north-east  side  of  the  Sink  Hole,  and 
the  others  occupied  other  positions  surrounding  the  enemy.  As  the  trees  ap 
proached  close  to  the  Sink  Hole,  these  served  in  part  to  protect  our  party.  Find 
ing  we  could  not  get  a  good  opportunity  to  dislodge  the  enemy,  as  they  were  best 
protected,  those  of  our  men  who  had  families  at  the  fort,  gradually  went  there,  not 
knowing  but  a  large  body  of  Indians  might  seize  the  favorable  occasion  to  attack 
the  fort,  while  the  men  were  mostly  away,  engaged  in  the  exciting  contest. 

The  Indians  in  the  Sink  Hole  had  a  drum,  made  of  a  skin  stretched  over  a  sec 
tion  of  hollow  tree,  on  which  they  beat  quite  constantly ;  and  some  Indian  would 
shake  a  rattle,  called  she-shu-qui,  probably  a  dried  bladder  with  pebbles  within ; 
and  even,  for  a  moment,  would  venture  to  thrust  his  head  in  view,  with  his  hand 
elevated  shaking  his  rattle,  and  calling  out  peash!  peash!  which  was  understood  to 
be  a  sort  of  defiance,  or  as  Black  Hawk,  who  was  one  of  the  party,  says  in  his  ac 
count  of  that  affair,  a  kind  of  bravado  to  come  and  fight  them  in  the  Sink  Hole. 
When  the  Indians  would  creep  up  and  shoot  over  the  rim  of  the  Sink  Hole,  they 
would  instantly  disappear,  and  while  they  sometimes  fired  effectual  shots,  they  in 
turn  became  occasionally  the  victims  of  our  rifles.  From  about  one  to  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  the  firing  was  inconstant,  our  men  generally  reserving  their  fire 
till  an  Indian  would  show  his  head,  and  all  of  us  were  studying  how  he  could  more 
effectually  attack  and  dislodge  the  enemy. 

At  length  Lieut.  Spears  suggested  that  a  pair  of  cart  wheels,  axle  and  tongue. 


582  MISSOURI. 

which  were  seen  at  Allen's  place,  near  at  hand,  be  obtained,  and  a  moving  battery 
constructed.  This  idea  was  entertained  favorably,  and  an  hour  or  more  consumed 
in  its  construction.  Some  oak  floor  puncheons,  from  seven  to  eight  feet  in  length, 
were  made  fast  to  the  axle  in  an  upright  position,  and  port-holes  made  through 
them.  Finally,  the  battery  was  ready  for  trial,  and  was  sufficiently  large  to  pro: 
tect  some  half  a  dozen  or  more  men.  It  was  moved  forward  slowly,  and  seemed 
to  attract  the  particular  attention  of  the  Indians,  who  had  evidently  heard  the 
knocking  and  pounding  connected  with  its  manufacture,  and  who  now  frequently 
popped  up  their  heads  to  make  momentary  discoveries ;  and  it  was  at  length  moved 
up  Co  within  less  than  ten  paces  of  the  brink  of  the  Sink  Hole,  on  the  south-east 
side.  The  upright  plank  did  not  reach  the  ground  within  some  eighteen  inches, 
our  men  calculating  to  shoot  beneath  the  lower  end  of  the  plank  at  the  Indians; 
but  the  latter,  from  their  position,  had  the  decided  advantage  of  this  neglected 
aperture,  for  the  Indians  snooting  beneath  the  battery  at  an  upward  angle,  would 
get  shots  at  the  whites  before  the  latter  could  see  them.  The  Indians  also  watched 
the  port-holes,  and  directed  some  of  their  shots  to  them.  Lieut.  Spears  was  shot 
dead,  through  the  forehead,  and  his  death  was  much  lamented,  as  he  had  proved 
himself  the  most  active  and  intrepid  officer  engaged.  John  Patterson  was  wounded 
in  the  thigh,  and  some  others  wounded  behind  the  battery.  Having  failed  in  the 
object  for  which  it  was  designed,  the  battery  was  abandoned  after  sundown. 

Our  hope  all  along  had  been,  that  the  Indians  would  emerge  from  their  covert, 
and  attempt  to  retreat  to  where  we  supposed  their  canoes  were  left,  some  three  or 
four  miles  distant,  in  which  case  we  were  firmly  determined  to  rush  upon  them, 
and  endeavor  to  cut  them  totally  off.  The  men  generally  evinced  the  greatest 
bravery  during  the  whole  engagement.  Night  now  coming  on,  and  having  heard 
the  reports  of  half  a  dozen  or  so  of  guns  in  the  direction  of  the  fort,  by  a  few  In 
dians  who  rushed  out  from  the  woods  skirting  Bob's  Creek,  not  more  than  forty 
rods  from  the  north  end  of  the  fort.  This  movement  on  the  part  of  the  few  Indians 
who  had  escaped  when  the  others  took  refuge  in  the  Sink  Hole,  was  evidently  de 
signed  to  divert  the  attention  of  the  whites,  and  alarm  them  for  the  safety  of  the 
fort,  and  thus  effectually  relieve  the  Indians  in  the  Sink  Hole.  This  was  the  result, 
for  Capt  Musick  and  men  retired  to  the  fort,  carrying  the  dead  and  wounded,  and 
made  every  preparation  to  repel  a  night  attack.  As  the  Mississippi  was  quite  high, 
with  much  back  water  over  the  low  grounds,  the  approach  of  the  enemy  was  thus 
facilitated,  and  it  was  feared  a  large  Indian  force  was  at  hand.  The  people  were 
always  more  apprehensive  of  danger  at  a  time  when  the  river  was  swollen,  than 
when  at  its  ordinary  stage. 

The  men  in  the  fort  were  mostly  up  all  night,  ready  for  resistance,  if  necessary. 
There  was  no  physician  at  the  fort,  and  much  effort  was  made  to  set  some  broken 
bones.  There  was  a  well  in  the  fort,  and  provisions  and  ammunition  sufficient  to 
sustain  a  pretty  formidable  attack.  The  women  were  greatly  alarmed,  pressing 
their  infants  to  their  bosoms,  fearing  they  might  not  be  permitted  to  behold  another 
morning's  light;  but  the  night  passed  away  without  seeing  or  hearing  an  Indian. 
The  next  morning  a  party  went  to  the  Sink  Hole,  and  found  the  Indians  gone,  who 
had  carried  off  all  their  dead  and  wounded,  except  five  dead  bodies  left  on  the 
north-west  bank  of  the  Sink  Hole  ;  and  by  the  signs  of  blood  within  the  Sink  Hole, 
it  was  judged  that  well  nigh  thirty  of  the  enemy  must  have  been  killed  and 
wounded.  Lieut.  Drakeford  Gray's  report  of  the  affair,  made  eight  of  our  party 
killed,  one  missing,  and  five  wounded — making  a  total  of  fourteen;  I  had  thought 
the  number  was  nearer  twenty.  Our  dead  were  buried  near  the  fort,  when  Capt. 
Musick  and  his  men  went  over  to  Cape  au  Gris,  where  they  belonged,  and  of  which 
srarrison  Capt.  Musick  had  the  command.  We  that  day  sent  out  scouts,  while  I 
proceeded  to  St.  Charles  to  procure  medical  and  surgical  assistance,  and  sent  for- 
w-jird  Drs.  Hubbard  and  Wilson. 


St.  Charles,  the  capital  of  St.  Charles  county,  is  on  the  northern  bank  of 
the  Missouri  River,  18  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  about  20  by  land  from  St. 
Louis.  The  first  settlement  of  St.  Charles  dates  back  to  the  year  1764, 


MISSOURI.  533 

when  it  was  settled  by  the  French,  and  for  a  long  time  was  regarded  as  the 
rival  of  St.  Louis.  The  opening  of  the  North  Missouri  Railroad  has  added 
much  to  its  prosperity.  It  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  first  elevation  on 
the  river  from  its  mouth.  The  rocky  bluffs  in  the  vicinity  present  beautiful 
views  of  both  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers.  Quarries  of  limestone, 
sandstone,  and  stone  coal  have  been  opened  near  the  town.  The  village  is 
upward  of  a  mile  long,  and  has  several  streets  parallel  with  the  river.  It 
contains  the  usual  county  buildings,  several  steam  mills,  etc.,  a  Catholic  con 
vent,  a  female  academy,  and  St.  Charles  College,  founded  in  1837,  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Methodists.  Population  about  3,000. 

Boonville^  a  flourishing  town,  the  county  seat  of  Cooper  county,  is  on  the 
S.  bank  of  Missouri  River,  48  miles  N.W.  from  Jefferson  City.  It  has  im 
portant  commercial  advantages,  which  have  drawn  to  it  the  principal  trade 
of  S.W.  Missouri,  of  a  portion  of  Arkansas,  and  the  Cherokee  Nation.  It 
has  a  healthy  situation,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  farming  region.  Grapes 
are  cultivated  here  to  some  extent.  Iron,  lead,  stone  coal,  marble  and  lime 
stone  are  abundant  in  the  vicinity.  The  New  Mexico  or  Santa  Fe  trade  is 
said  to  have  first  begun  at  Boonville,  or  Old  Franklin,  as  early  as  1824. 
Population  about  4,000. 

Ironton,  the  county  seat  of  Iron  county,  is  on  the  line  of  the  Iron  Moun 
tain  Railroad,  87  miles  from  St.  Louis.  The  county  abounds  in  mineral 
wealth,  iron,  marble,  copper,  and  lead,  and  the  town,  containing  some  few 
hundred  inhabitants,  is  becoming  quite  a  summer  resort  from  its  excellent 
medicinal  springs. 

Potosi  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  state,  having  been  settled  in  1763, 
by  Messrs.  Renault  and  Moses.  It  is  near  the  line  of  the  Iron  Mountain 
Railroad,  54  miles  from  St.  Louis.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Washington,  and 
has  been  long  noted  as  the  seat  of  the  richest  of  lead  mines.  The  town  has 
about  700  inhabitants. 

The  famous  Mine  a  Burton,  at  this  place,  was  the  most  important  and 
principal  discovery  made  in  Missouri  under  Spanish  authority.  It  took  its 
name  from  M.  Burton,  a  Frenchman,  who,  while  hunting  in  this  quarter, 
found  the  ore  lying  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This  was  about  the  year 
1780.  Hon.  Thos.  H.  Benton  gives  this  account  of  Mr.  Burton  from  per 
sonal  knowledge,  and  published  it  in  the  St.  Louis  Enquirer  of  October  16, 
1818: 

He  is  a  Frenchman  from  the  north  of  France.  In  the  forepart  of  the  last  cen 
tury,  he  served  in  the  low  countries  under  the  orders  of  Marshal  Saxe.  He  was 
at  the  siege  of  Bergen-op  zoom,  and  assisted  in  the  assault  of  that  place  when  it 
was  assailed  by  a  division  of  Marshal  Saxe's  army,  under  the  command  of  Count 
Lowendahl.  He  has  also  seen  service  upon  the  continent.  He  was  at  the  building 
of  Fort  Chartres,  on  the  American  bottom,  afterward  went  to  Fort  I)u  Quesne  (now 
Pittsburg),  and  was  present  at  Braddock's  defeat.  From  the  life  of  a  soldier,  Bur 
ton  passed  to  that  of  a  hunter,  and  in  that  character,  about  half  a  century  ago, 
while  pursuing  a  bear  to  the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  he  discovered  the  rich  lead 
mines  which  have  borne  his  name  ever  since.  His  present  age  can  not  be  ascer 
tained.  He  was  certainly  an  old  soldier  at  Fort  Chartres,  when  some  of  the  peo 
ple  of  the  present  day  were  little  children  at  that  place.  The  most  moderate  com 
putation  will  make  him  one  hundred  and  six.  He  now  lives  in  the  family  of  Mr. 
Micheaux,  at  the  Little  Rock  ferry,  three  miles  above  Ste.  Genevieve,  and  walks  to 
that  village  almost  every  Sunday  to  attend  Mass.  He  is  what  we  call  a  square  built 
man,  of  five  feet  eight  inches  high,  full  chest  and  forehead;  his  sense  of  seeing 
and  hearing  somewhat  impaired,  but  free  from  disease,  and  apparently  able  to  hold 
out  against'time  for  many  years  to  come. 


584 


MISSOURI. 


In  1797,  Moses  Austin,  a  native  of  Connecticut,  who  afterward  became 
identified  with  the  history  of  Texas,  explored  the  country  about  Mine  a  Bur 
ton,  and  obtained  a  grant  of  a  league  square  from  the  Spanish  government, 
in  consideration  of  erecting  a  reverberating  furnace  and  other  works,  for  the 
purpose  of  prosecuting  the  mining  business  at  these  mines. 

"Associated  with  Mr.  Austin,  was  his  son  Stephen  F.  Austin,  who,  in  1798,  com 
menced  operations,  erected  a  suitable  furnace  for  smelting  the  "  ashes  of  lead," 
and  sunk  the  first  regular  shaft  for  raising  ore.  These  improvements  revived  the 
mining  business,  and  drew  to  the  country  many  American  families,  who  settled  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  mines.  The  next  year  a  shot-tower  was  built  on  the  pin 
nacle  of  the  cliff  near  Herculaneum,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Elias 
Bates,  and  patent  shot  were  made.  A  manufactory  of  sheet  lead  was  completed 
the  same  year,  and  the  Spanish  arsenals  at  New  Orleans  and  Havana,  received  a 
considerable  part  of  their  supplies  for  the  Spanish  navy  from  these  mines." 

Hermann,  capital  of  Gasconade  county,  is  on  the  line  of  the  Pacific  Rail 
road,  81  miles  from  St.  Louis.  It  was  first  settled  in  1837,  by  the  German 
Settlement  Society,  of  Philadelphia.  The  place  and  vicinity  are  noted  for 
the  culture  of  the  grape,  being  second  only  to  Cincinnati.  A  good  year's 
growth  of  the  grape  will  yield  over  100,000  gallons  of  wine,  worth  from 
$1  25  to  $2  per  gallon. 

There  are  in  the  state  a  large  number  of  towns  of  from  1,000  to  3,000  in 
habitants,  beside  those  described.  These  are  among  them:  Canton,  in  Lewis 
county,  175  miles  N.E.  from  Jefferson  City.  Carondolet,  on  the  Iron  Moun 
tain  Railroad.  6  miles  from  St.  Louis.  This  is  an  old  town,  settled  half  a 
century  since,  and  named  from  one  of  its  early  settlers,  Baron  De  Carondo 
let.  Chillicothe,  the  county  seat  of  Livingston,  is  129  miles  west  of  Hanni 
bal,  on  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad.  Columbia,  the  county  seat 
of  Boone,  33  miles  N.N.W.  from  Jefferson  City,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  State 
University  and  of  two  colleges.  Fulton,  county  seat  of  Callaway,  is  24  miles 
N.E.  from  Jefferson  City.  Here  is  located  Westminster  College  and  the 
State  Lunatic  and  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylums.  Glasgow  is  in  Howard  county, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri,  60  miles  N.W.  of  Jefferson  City.  La 
Grange  is  on  the  Mississippi,  in  Lewis  county,  104  N.N.E.  of  Jefferson  City. 
Louisiana  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  82  miles  N.E.  of  Jefferson 
City.  Palmyra,  the  county  seat  of  Marion,  on  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph 
Railroad,  14  miles  from  Hannibal,  has  two  colleges  and  two  academies,  and 
is  considered  the  most  beautiful  town  of  northern  Missouri.  St.  Genevieve, 
the  capital  of  St.  Genevieve  county,  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mis 
sissippi,  72  miles  below  St.  Louis,  and  117  S.E.  from  Jefferson  City.  St. 
Genevieve  exports  large  quantities  of  copper,  lead,  limestone,  marble,  and 
white  sand;  the  latter  article  is  of  superior  quality,  being  used  in  the  glass 
works  of  Boston  and  Pittsburg.  It  is  noted  as  the  oldest  town  in  Missouri, 
having  been  settled  by  a  few  French  families  in  1751.  Tipton  is  in  Moniteau 
county,  38  miles  from  Jefferson  City.  Washington  is  in  Franklin  county,  on 
the  line  of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  54  miles  from  St.  Louis.  HuntsviUe,  county 
seat  of  Randolph,  is  on  the  North  Missouri  Railroad,  160  miles  N.W.  from 
St.  Louis:  near  it  is  Mount  Pleasant  College.  Mound  City,  or  Hudson,  is 
at  the  junction  of  the  North  Missouri  and  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Rail 
roads,  168  miles  from  St.  Louis.  Mexico,  the  county  seat  of  Audrian,  is  on 
the  North  Missouri  Railroad,  50  miles  N.E.  from  Jefferson  City. 


MISSOURI. 

BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCHES,  MISCELLANIES,  ETC. 

Gen.  William  Clark  was  born  in  Virginia  in  Aug.,  1770,  and  in  1784  removed, 
with  his  father's  family,  to  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio,. now  the  site  of  Louisville,  where 
his  brother,  the  distinguished  Gen.  George  Rogers  Clark,  had  a  short  time  previ 
ously  established  a  fort.  In  1793,  he  was  appointed  by  Washington  lieutenant  of 
riflemen.  "  In  1803  he  was  tendered  by  Mr.  Jefferson  the  appointment  of  captain 
of  engineers,  to  assume  joint  command  with  Captain  Merriwether  Lewis,  of 
the  North-western  Expedition  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This  was  accepted,  and  the 
party  left  St.  Louis  in  March,  1804,  for  the  vast  and  then  unexplored  regions  be 
tween  the  Mississippi  River  and  the  ocean,  under  the  joint  command  of  himself 
and  Lewis,  they  being,  by  a  special  regulation  to  that  effect,  equal  in  rank.  On 
this  perilous  expedition,  he  was  the  principal  military  director,  while  Lewis,  assisted 
by  himself,  was  the  scientific  manager.  Gen.  Clark  then  kept  and  wrote  the  Jour 
nal,  which  has  since  been  published,  and  assisted  Lewis  in  all  his  celestial  obser 
vations,  when  they  were  together.  On  their  return  to  St.  Louis  from  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  in  the  fall  of  1806,  Capt.  Lewis  was  appointed  governor  of  the  territory 
then  designated  as  Upper  Louisiana,  and  the  place  of  lieutenant-colonel  of  infantry 
was  offered  to  Gen.  (then  Capt.)  Clark:  but  he  preferred  the  place  of  Indian  agent 
at  St.  Louis,  having  become,  by  his  intercourse  with  the  various  tribes  on  the  Mis 
souri,  well  acquainted  with  the  proper  course  to  be  pursued  toward  them;  and  he 
remained  in  this  office  until  he  was  made  brigadier  general  for  the  Territory  of 
Upper  Louisiana,  under  the  laws  of  congress.  During  the  late  war  with  Great 
Britain  he  was  applied  to  by  the  war  department  to  revise  the  plan  of  the  campaign 
then  going  on  under  Gen.  Hull,  and  was  offered  the  appointment  of  brigadier  gen 
eral  in  the  United  States  army,  and  the  command  then  held  by  Hull;  these,  how 
ever,  he  refused,  being  convinced  that  the  operations  of  this  officer  were  too  far 
advanced  to  be  successfully  remedied.  In  1813,  President  Madison  appointed  him, 
in  place  of  Gov.  Howard,  resigned,  governor  of  the  territory  and  superintendent 
of  Indian  affairs,  after  he  had  twice  refused  to  be  nominated  to  the  first  office.  He 
held  both  these  offices  until  Missouri  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  state  in 
1820.  Upon  her  admission,  he  was  nominated  against  his  consent  as  a  candidate 
for  governor,  but  was  not  elected,  being  in  Virginia  at  the  time  of  election.  He 
then  remained  in  private  life  until  1822,  when  he  was  appointed  by  President  Mon 
roe,  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs.  As  commissioner  and  superintendent  of  In 
dian  affairs  for  a  long  series  of  years,  he  made  treaties  with  almost  every  tribe  of 
Indians,  and  exhibited  to  all  of  them  the  feelings  of  a  philanthropist,  as  well  as  a 
becoming  zeal  for  the  rights  of  the  government  of  his  country.  He  was  applied 
to,  to  accept  the  office  of  United  States  senator  from  Missouri,  but  declined,  be 
lieving  that  he  could  more  efficiently  serve  his  country,  and  the  cause  of  humanity, 
in  the  Indian  department  than  in  the  national  halls  of  legislation.  He  was  the 
youngest  of  six  brothers,  the  four  oldest  of  whom  were  distinguished  officers  in 
the  Revolutionary  war.  One  of  them  fell  in  the  struggle ;  another  was  killed  by 
the  Indians  upon  the  Wabash,  and  his  brother,  Gen.  George  Rogers  Clark,  is  well 
known  to  the  people  of  the  west.  The  early  history  of  Kentucky  is  identified  with 
his,  and  as  long  as  that  noble  and  proud  state  maintains  her  lofty  eminence,  she 
will  cherish  his  name.  Gen.  Clark  was  a  resident  of  St.  Louis  for  more  than  thirty 
years,  and  died  there  in  September,  1838,  aged  68  years." — Blake's  Biog.  Did. 

Gov.  Benjamin  Howard  was  born  in  Virginia.  From  1807  to  1810,  he  was  a 
representative  in  Congress  from  Kentucky,  when  he  was  appointed  governor  of 
Missouri  Territory.  In  1 813,  he  resigned  the  latter  office  being  appointed  brigadier 
general  in  the  U.  S.  service.  This  was  the  period  of  the  war  with  Great  Britain, 
and  he  was  in  command  of  the  8th  military  department,  then  embracing  all  the 
territory  from  the  interior  of  Indiana  to  the  Mexican  frontier.  He  died  after  two 
days  illness,  at  St.  Louis,  in  Sept.,  1814.  He  was  a  brave  and  patriotic  man,  and 
his  loss -was  sincerely  felt.  Several  forts  in  the  west  have  been  named  from  him. 

Hon.  Lewis  F.  Linn  was  born  near  Louisville,  Ky.,  in  1795,  and  was  educated 
to  medicine,  which  he  practiced  after  his  removal  to  Missouri.  From  1833  to  1843, 
he  was  a  senator  in  congress  from  Missouri,  and  died  Oct.  3d,  in  the  last  named  year 


586  MISSOURI. 

at  his  residence  in  St.  Genevieve.  His  congressional  career  was  eminently  distin 
guished  for  ability,  and  for  his  identification  with  the  interests  of  the  Mississippi 
Valley.  His  virtues  were  eulogized  by  many  of  the  best  men  in  the  country. 

Hon.  Thomas  Hart  Benton  "was  born  in  Hillsborough,  North  Carolina,  March 
14, 1782,  and  educated  at  Chapel  Hill  College.  He  left  that  institution  without  re 
ceiving  a  degree,  and  forthwith  commenced  the  study  of  law  in  William  and  Mary 
College,  Virginia,  under  Mr.  St.  George  Tucker.  In  1810,  he  entered  the  United 
States  army,  but  soon  resigned  his  commission  of  lieutenant-colonel,  and  in  1811 
was  at  Nashville,  Tenn.,  where  he  commenced  the  practice  of  the  law.  He  soon 
afterward  emigrated  to  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  where  he  connected  himself  with  the  press 
as  the  editor  of  a  newspaper,  the  Missouri  Argus.  In  1820,  he  was  elected  a  mem 
ber  of  the  United  States  senate,  serving  as  chairman  of  many  important  com 
mittees,  and  remained  in  that  body  till  the  session  of  1851,  at  which  time  he  failed 
of  re-election.  As  Missouri  was  not  admitted  into  the  Union  till  August  10,  1821, 
more  than  a  year  of  Mr.  Benton's  first  term  of  service  expired  before  he  took  his 
seat  He  occupied  himself  during  this  interval  before  taking  his  seat  in  congress 
in  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  the  language  and  literature  of  Spain.  Immediately 
after  he  appeared  in  the  senate  he  took  a  prominent  part  in  the  deliberations  of 
that  body,  and  rapidly  rose  to  eminence  and  distinction.  Few  public  measures 
were  discussed  between  the  years  1821  and  1851  that  he  did  not  participate  in 
largely,  and  the  influence  he  wielded  was  always  felt  and  confessed  by  the  coun 
try.  He  was  one  of  the  chief  props  and  supporters  of  the  administrations  of 
Presidents  Jackson  and  Van  Buren.  The  people  of  Missouri  long  clung  to  him  as 
their  apostle  and  leader;  and  it  required  persevering  effort  to  defeat  him.  But  he 
had  served  them  during  the  entire  period  of  thirty  years  without  interruption,  and 
others,  who  aspired  to  honors  he  enjoyed,  became  impatient  for  an  opportunity  to 
supplant  him.  His  defeat  was  the  consequence.  Col.  Benton  was  distinguished 
for  his  learning,  iron  will,  practical  mind,  and  strong  memory.  As  a  public  speaker 
he  was  not  interesting  or  calculated  to  produce  an  effect  on  the  passions  of  an 
audience,  but  his  speeches  were  read  with  avidity,  always  producing  a  decided  in 
fluence.  He  was  elected  a  representative  in  the  thirty-third  congress  for  the  dis 
trict  of  St.  Louis,  and  on  his  retirement  from  public  life  devoted  himself  to  the 
preparation  of  a  valuable  register  of  the  debates  in  congress,  upon  which  he 
labored  until  his  death,  which  occurred  in  Washington  on  the  10th  of  April,  1858, 
of  cancer  in  the  stomach." — Lanmaris  Diet,  of  Congress. 


EXPULSION   OF   THE   MORMONS   FROM   MISSOURI. 
[From  Perkins'  Annals  of  the  West.] 

From  the  time  of  Rigdon's  conversion,  in  October,  1830,  the  progress  of  Mor- 
monism  was  wonderfully  rapid,  he  being  a  man  of  more  than  common  capacity 
and  cunning.  Kirtland,  Ohio,  became  the  chief  city  for  the  time  being,  while 
large  numbers  went  to  Missouri  in  consequence  of  revelations  to  that  effect.  In 
July,  1833,  the  number  of  Mormons  in  Jackson  county,  Missouri,  was  over  1,200. 
Their  increase  having  produced  some  anxiety  among  the  neighboring  settlers,  a 
meeting  was  held  in  the  month  just  named,  from  whence  emanated  resolutions  for 
bidding  all  Mormons  thenceforth  to  settle  in  that  county,  and  intimating  that  all 
who  did  not  soon  remove  of  their  own  will  would  be  forced  to  do  so.  Among  the 
resolutions  was  one  requiring  the  Mormon  newspaper  to  be  stopped,  but  as  this 
was  not  at  once  complied  with  the  office  of  the  paper  was  destroyed.  Another 
large  meeting  of  the  citizens  being  held,  the  Mormons  became  alarmed  and  con 
tracted  to  remove.  Before  this  contract,  however,  could  be  complied  with,  violent 
proceedings  were  again  resorted  to;  houses  were  destroyed,  men  whipped,  and  at 
length  some  of  both  parties  were  killed.  The  result  was  a  removal  of  the  Mor 
mons  across  the  Missouri  into  Clay  county. 

These  outrages  being  communicated  to  the  Prophet  at  Kirtland,  he  took  steps 
to  bring  about  a  great  gathering  of  his  disciples,  with  which,  marshaled  as  an 
army,  in  May,  1834,  he  started  for  Missouri,  which  in  due  time  he  reached,  but 


MISSOURI.  587 

with  no  other  result  than  the  transfer  of  a  certain  portion  of  his  followers  as  per 
manent  settlers  to  a  region  already  too  full  of  them.  At  first  the  citizens  of  Clay 
county  were  friendly  to  the  persecuted;  but  ere  long  trouble  grew  up,  and  the 
wanderers  were  once  more  forced  to  seek  a  new  home,  in  order  to  prevent  outrages. 
This  home  they  found  in  Caldwell  county,  where,  by  permission  of  the  neighbors 
and  state  legislature,  they  organized  a  county  government,  the  country  having  been 
previously  unsettled.  Soon  after  this  removal,  numbers  of  Mormons  flocking  in, 
settlements  were  also  formed  in  Davis  and  Carroll : — the  three  towns  of  the  new 
sect  being  Far  West  in  Caldwell ;  Adam-on-di-ah-mond,  called  Diahmond  or  Diah- 
man,  in  Davis ;  and  Dewit,  in  Carroll.  Thus  far  the  Mormon  writers  and  their 
enemies  pretty  well  agree  in  their  narratives  of  the  Missouri  troubles ;  but  thence 
forth  all  is  contradiction  and  uncertainty.  These  contradictions  we  can  not  recon 
cile,  and  we  have  not  room  to  give  both  relations ;  referring  our  readers,  therefore, 
to  Hunt  and  Greene,  we  will,  in  a  few  words,  state  our  own  impressions  of  the 
causes  of  the  quarrel  and  the  catastrophe. 

The  Mormons,  or  Latter-day  Saints,  held  two  views  which  they  were  fond  of 
dwelling  upon,  and  which  were  calculated  to  alarm  and  excite  the  people  of  the 
frontier.  One  was,  that  the  west  was  to  be  their  inheritance,  and  that  the  uncon 
verted  dwellers  upon  the  lands  about  them  were  to  be  destroyed,  and  the  saints  to 
succeed  to  their  property.  The  destruction  spoken  of  was  to  be,  as  Smith  taught, 
by  the  hand  of  God ;  but  those  who  were  threatened  naturally  enough  concluded 
that  the  Mormons  might  think  themselves  instruments  in  His  hand  to  work  the 
change  they  foretold  and  desired.  They  believed  also,  with  or  without  reason,  that 
the  saints,  anticipating,  like  many  other  heirs,  the  income  of  their  inheritance, 
helped  themselves  to  what  they  needed  of  food  and  clothing;  or,  as  the  world 
called  it,  were  arrant  thieves. 

The  other  offensive  view  was,  the  descent  of  the  Indians  from  the  Hebrews, 
taught  by  the  Book  of  Mormon,  and  their  ultimate  restoration  to  their  share  in  the 
inheritance  of  the  faithful :  from  this  view,  the  neighbors  were  easily  led  to  infer 
a  union  of  the  saints  and  savages  to  desolate  the  frontier.  Looking  with  suspicion 
upon  the  new  sect,  and  believing  them  to  be  already  rogues  and  thieves,  the  in 
habitants  of  Carroll  and  Davis  counties  were  of  course  opposed  to  their  possession 
of  the  chief  political  influence,  such  as  they  already  possessed  in  Caldwell,  and 
from  the  fear  that  they  would  acquire  more,  arose  the  first  open  quarrel.  This  took 
place  in  August,  1838,  at  an  election  in  Davis  county,  where  their  right  of  suffrage 
was  disputed.  The  affray  which  ensued  being  exaggerated,  and  some  severe  cuts 
and  bruises  being  converted  into  mortal  wounds  by  the  voice  of  rumor,  a  number 
of  the  Mormons  of  Caldwell  county  went  to  Diahmond,  and  after  learning  the  facts, 
by  force  or  persuasion  induced  a  magistrate  of  Davis,  known  to  be  a  leading  oppo 
nent  of  theirs,  to  sign  a  promise  not  to  molest  them  any  more  by  word  or  deed. 
For  this  Joe  Smith  and  Lyman  Wight  were  arrested  and  held  to  trial.  By  this 
time  the  prejudices  and  fears  of  both  parties  were  fully  aroused;  each  anticipated 
violence  from  the  other,  and  to  prevent  it  each  proceeded  to  violence.  The  Mor 
mons  of  Caldwell,  legally  organized,  turned  out  to  preserve  the  peace;  and  the 
Anti-Mormons  of  Davis,  Carroll  and  Livingston,  acting  upon  the  sacred  principle 
of  self-defense,  armed  and  embodied  themselves  for  the  same  commendable  pur 
pose.  Unhappily,  in  this  case,  as  in  many  similar  ones,  the  preservation  of  peace 
was  ill  confided  to  men  moved  by  mingled  fear  and  hatred ;  and  instead  of  it,  the 
opposing  forces  produced  plunderings,  burnings,  and  bloodshed,  which  did  not 
terminate  until  Governor  Boggs,  on  the  27th  of  October,  authorized  Gen.  Clark, 
with  the  full  military  power  of  the  state,  to  exterminate  or  drive  from  Missouri,  if 
he  thought  necessary,  the  unhappy  followers  of  Joe  Smith.  Against  the  army, 
3,500  strong,  thus  brought  to  annihilate  them,  and  which  was  evidently  not  a  mob, 
the  1,400  Mormons  made  no  resistance;  300  fled,  and  the  remainder  surrendered. 
The  leaders  were  examined  and  held  to  trial,  bail  being  refused ;  while  the  mass 
of  the  unhappy  people  were  stripped  of  their  property  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the 
war,  and  driven,  men,  women,  and  children,  in  mid  winter,  from  the  state,  naked 
and  starving.  Multitudes  of  them  were  forced  to  encamp  without  tents,  and  with 
scarce  any  clothes  or  food,  on  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  which  was  too  full  of 
ice  for  them  to  cross.  The  people  of  Illinois,  however,  received  the  fugitives  when 


588 


MISSOURI. 


they  reached  the  eastern  shore,  with  open  arms,  and  the  saints  entered  upon  a 
new  and  yet  more  surprising  series  of  adventures  than  those  they  had  already 
passed  through.  The  Mormons  found  their  way  from  Missouri  into  the  neighbor 
ing  state  through  the  course  of  the  year  1839,  and  missionaries  were  sent  abroad 
to  paint  their  sufferings,  and  ask  relief  for  those  who  were  persecuted  because  of 
their  religious  views;  although  their  religious  views  appear  to  have  had  little  or 
nothing  to  do  with  the  opposition  experienced  by  them  in  Missouri. 


PILOT  KNOB. 

One  of  the  Iron  Mountains,  and  rising  to  the  bight  of 
five  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet. 


THE   IRON   MINES   OF  MISSOURI. 

No  country  on  the  globe,  of  the  same  extent,  equals  Missouri  in  the  quantity  of 
iron.  "  The  metalliferous  region  of  Missouri  covers  an  area  of  at  least  20^000 

square  miles,  or  about  12,800,000 
acres,  and  the  same  formation  ex 
tends  southward  into  Arkansas  and 
westward  into  the  territories.  In 
this  great  region  is  a  uniformity  of 
mineral  character  as  unusal  as  the 
great  extent  of  the  deposits.  The 
whole  country  is  composed  of  lower 
magnesian  limestone,  and  bears 
lead  throughout  its  entire  extent, 
and  in  numerous  localities,  iron 
mines  of  great  value  exist.  The 
ore  is  massive,  generally  found  on 
or  near  the  surface,  and  of  remark 
able  purity.  Among  the  most  re 
markable  of  these  iron  formations 
is  the  celebrated  Iron  Mountain,  in 
St.  Francis  county,  nearPotosi,  and 
about  80  miles  south  from  St.  Louis 
by  the  Iron  Mountain  Railroad, 
and  30  west  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  On  account  of  the  difficulty  of  transportation,  and  the  prevailing  impres 
sion  that  the  ore  from  the  Iron  Mountain  could  not  be  smelted,  it  remained  un 
productive  till  the  formation  of  the  Iron  Mountain  Company,  in  1845.  It  now 
furnishes  the  chief  material  for  the  St.  Louis  rolling-mill,  and  is  the  principal  sup 
port  of  the  iron  manufactures  of  Missouri. 

The  mountain  is  the  south-western  termination  of  a  ridge  of  porphyritic  rocks. 
It  is  of  a  conical  shape,  flattened  at  the  top,  and  slopes  toward  the  west.  It  is 
made  up  exclusively  of  specular  oxide  of  iron,  the  most  abundant  and  valuable 
ore  in  the  state,  in  its  purest  form,  containing  no  perceptible  quantity  of  other 
mineral  substances  except  a  little  less  than  one  per  cent,  of  silica,  which,  accord 
ing  to  Dr.  Ditton,  who  made  an  analysis  of  the  ore  four  or  five  years  ago,  rather 
improves  than  injures  its  quality.  The  quantity  of  the  ore  is  inexhaustible,  and, 
for  most  purposes,  its  quality  requires  no  improvement. 

The  area  of  the  Iron  Mountain  covers  an  extent  of  some  five  hundred  acres. 
It  rises  to  the  hight  of  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  general  level  of  the 
surrounding  country.  Its  whole  top  is  a  solid  mass  of  iron,  and  one  can  see  noth 
ing  but  iron  lumps  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  ore  of  this  mountain  is 
known  as  the  specular  oxide,  and  usually  yields  some  sixty-eight  or  seventy  per 
cent,  of  pure  iron,  and  so  free  from  injurious  substances  as  to  present  no  obstacle 
to  working  it  directly  into  blooms.  The  metal  is  so  excellent  that  much  of  it  is 
now  used  by  the  manufacturers  on  the  Ohio  River,  for  mixing  with  the  ore  found 
there.  There  are  in  operation  at  the  mountain  three  blast  furnaces,  producing 
from  seven  thousand  to  seven  thousand  five  hundred  tuns  of  metal  annually.  Be 
sides  this  immense  deposit  of  ore  above  the  surface,  a  shaft  sunk  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain  gives  fifteen  feet  of  clay  and  ore,  thirty  feet  of  white  sandstone, 
thirty-three  feet  of  blue  porphyry,  and  fifty-three  feet  of  pure  iron  ore.  This  bed 
of  mineral  would  be  immensely  valuable  if  there  was  none  above  the  surface. 


MISSOURI.  -Oft 

Ooc/ 

"About  six  miles  south  and  a  little  east  of  the  Iron  Mountain  are  deposits  of  ore 
no  less  rich,  and  scarcely  less  extensive.  These  are  chiefly  in  Pilot  Knob  and 
Shepherd  Mountain.  The  Pilot  Knob  ore  is  different  from  all  other  ore  of  the 
neighborhood,  both  in  appearance  and  in  composition.  It  is  of  finer  grain,  and 
more  compact,  and  breaks  with  a  gray,  steel-like  fracture.  It  contains  from  ten  to 
twenty  per  cent,  of  silica,  which  renders  it  more  readily  fusible,  and  better  fitted 
for  some  purposes.  The  Knob  is  a  very  striking  feature  in  the  landscape.  .  Rising 
almost  perpendicularly  five  hundred  and  eighty-one  feet  on  a  base  of  three  hun 
dred  and  sixty  acres,  and  almost  wholly  isolated,  it  has  long  served  as  a  land-mark 
to  the  pioneers  of  Missouri.  Hence  its  name.  A  very  large  portion  of  the  moun 
tain  is  pure  iron.  It  is  somewhat  difficult  to  estimate  the  quantity  of  the  ore,  on 
account  of  its  being  interstratified  with  slate.  The  rocks  about  the  base  of  the 
mountain  are  dark  gray,  silicious  and  slaty.  At  a  hight  of  three  hundred  feet 
they  show  more  traces  of  iron.  At  a  hight  of  four  hundred  and  forty-one  feet 
there  is  a  stratum  of  pure  ore,  from  nineteen  to  twenty-four  feet  thick.  Beneath 
and  above  this  are  beds  of  ore  mixed  with  the  silicious  rocks.  It  is  estimated  that 
the  amount  of  ore  above  the  surface  is  not  less  than  13,872,773  tuns,  and  probably 
much  more.  Its  igneous  origin  is  not  certain,  but  probable ;  and  hence  it  is  proba 
ble  that  it  extends  downward  to  an  indefinite  extent,  according  to  the  well-founded 
theory  of  geologists. 

Shepherd  Mountain,  which  is  a  little  more  than  a  mile  south-west  of  Pilot  Knob, 
rises  to  a  hight  of  660  feet  on  a  base  of  800  acres.  It  is  penetrated  with  veins  or 
dykes  of  ore,  running  in  different  directions,  but  mostly  vertical,  and  of  indefinite 
extent. 

From  the  mine,  which  is  worked  at  about  500  feet  from  the  top  of  Pilot  Knob, 
the  ore  is  Carried  in  cars  on  a  railway  running  down  the  side  of  the  mountain,  on 
a  fearfully  steep  inclined  plane.  Upon  this  plane  we  climbed  laboriously  to  the 
mine  and  then  ascended  to  the  flagstaff,  firmly  fastened  among  the  rocks,  on  the 
topmost  peak,  which  are  so  well  worn  by  the  feet  of  strangers  that  they  present 
the  appearance  of  pure  wrought  iron,  which  is  hardly  remarkable  in  view  of  the 
fact  that  horse-shoes  and  knives  have  been  repeatedly  made  from  the  crude  ore, 
merely  by  hammering. 

When  we  state,  on  the  authority  of  Prof.  Swallow,  that  there  is  enough  ore,  of 
the  very  best  quality,  within  a  few  miles  of  Pilot  Knob  and  Iron  Mountain,  above 
the  surface  of  the  valleys,  not  reckoning  the  vast  deposits  that  lie  beneath,  to  fur 
nish  one  million  tuns  per  annum  of  manufactured  iron  for  two  hundred  years, 
some  estimate  may  be  formed  of  the  vast  advantages  that  must  accrue  to  Missouri 
from  the  possession  of  so  rich  a  store  of  that  indispensable  metal,  which,  greater 
in  its  power  even  than  gold,  has  always  stood  pre-eminent  in  its  influence  on  the 
prosperity  of  nations,  seeming,  as  it  were,  to  communicate  to  those  who  own  and 
manufacture  it  some  of  its  own  hardy  and  sterling  qualities." 

The  mines  of  Elba,  Sweden,  and  Norway,  all  together  do  not  equal  these  peaks. 
The  substantial  wealth  of  England  and  Belgium  is  drawn  from  their  mines,  but 
neither  of  them  possess  the  mineral  wealth,  the  iron,  lead,  coal,  tin  and  copper  of 
this  single  state. 

Gen.  James  Wilkinson  was  born  in  Maryland  about  the  year  1757,  was  educated 
to  medicine,  entered  the  army  of  the  Revolution,  and  was  breveted  brigadier  gen 
eral.  After  the  war  he  settled  in  Kentucky  in  commercial  business.  Again  en 
tering  the  army,  he  had  command  of  the  United  States  forces  in  the  Mississippi 
valley.  In  the  war  of  1812,  he  served  on  the  northern  frontier.  He  died  in  1825, 
aged' 68.  He  published  "Memoirs  of  My  Own  Times,"  3  vols.  8vo.,  1816. 

Major  Amos  Stoddard^  the  first  American  governor  of  Upper  Louisiana,  was 
born  in  Woodbury,  Conn.,  and  was  a  soldier  of  the  Revolution.  He  was  subse 
quently  clerk  of  the  supreme  court  in  Boston,  also  practiced  law  at  Hallowell, 
Maine.  In  1799,  he  entered  the  army  as  captain  of  artillery.  About  the  year 
1S04,  he  was  appointed  first  military  commandant  and  civil  governor  of  Upper 
Louisiana,  his  headquarters  being  St.'Louis.  He  died  of  lockjaw  in  1813,  from  a 
wound  received  at  the  siege  of  Fort  Meigs.  He  was  a  man  of  talent,  and  was  the 
author  of  Sketches  of  Louisiana,  a  valuable  work. 


THE  TIMES 

OP 

THE      REBELLION 

IN 

MISSOURI. 


AT  the  outbreak  of  the  Eebellion  the  governors  of  all  the  border 
slave-states  were  secessionists  with  the  single  exception  of  Maryland. 
Some  of  them,  it  is  true,  professed  "neutrality;"  but  subsequent 
events  proved  them  to  have  been  rebels  in  disguise,  and  therefore 
especially  despicable  for  uniting  hypocrisy  to  their  treason.  Prom 
inent  among  these  was  Claiborne  F.  Jackson  of  Missouri,  whose  atro 
cious  policy  brought  upon  his  state  untold  miseries.  The  result  of 
the  presidential  campaign  was  no  sooner  known  than  he  and  his 
accomplices  in  crime  began  their  attempt  to  take  the  state  out  of 
the  union.  What  rendered  this  conduct  the  more  nefarious  was  the 
knowledge,  on  the  part  of  Jackson,  that  the  majority  of  the  peo 
ple  were  opposed  to  uniting  their  fortunes  with  the  Southern  confed 
eracy.  In  a  letter  to  Judge  Walker  he  says,  "  I  have  been,  from  the 
beginning  in  favor  of  prompt  action  on  the  part  of  the  Southern 
States,  but  the  majority  of  the  people  have  differed  from  me."  And 
yet,  with  this  knowledge,  he  plunged  his  state  into  the  whirlpool  of 
treason  and  blood. 

In  January,  1861,  the  state  legislature  passed  an  act  calling  a  con 
vention,  and  providing  for  the  election  of  delegates.  Contrary  to  the 
expectation  of  the  leaders,  who  had  used  every  art  to  carry  out  their 
designs,  the  convention  proved  to  be  a  loyal  body. 

Determined  not  to  be  foiled,  the  rebel  leaders  began  to  raise  troops, 
which  were  placed  under  the  control  of  the  governor.  Preparations 
were  also  made  to  seize  the  arsenals  and  all  other  public  property  be 
fore  the  new  president  should  be  inaugurated  In  all  these  movements 
the  governor  was  the  most  active  spirit.  He  even  entered  into  cor 
respondence  with  the  secession  leaders  in  other  states,  and  pledged 
Missouri  to  the  cause  upon  which  they  had  entered. 

When  the  president  called  for  troops,  his  act  was  denounced  by 
Jackson  in  terms  violent  and  abusive ;  and  he  called  the  legislature 
together  in  order  to  obtain  the  means  of  placing  the  state  on  a  war 
footing. 

The  action  of  this  body  was  not  waited  for,  and  on  the  20th  of 

(591; 


592  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

April  the  enemies  of  the  government  seized  upon  the  arsenal  at  Lib 
erty,  near  the  state  line,  and  laid  their  plans  for  obtaining  the  posses 
sion  of  a  much  more  important  one  located  at  St.  Louis.  In  this, 
however,  they  were  foiled  by  the  activity  and  energy  of  Capt.  Stokes, 
of  the  United  States  army,  who  succeeded  in  removing  an  immense 
amount  of  the  material  of  war  into  the  State  of  Illinois,  which  doubt 
less  would  soon  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  secessionists  and 
greatly  aided  their  cause. 

Capture  of  Camp  Jackson. — Early  in  May,  Governor  Jackson  ordered  out  the 
militia  of  the  state  to  go  into  camps  in  their  several  districts,  ostensibly  to  obtain 
instruction  in  military  drill,  but  in  reality  to  precipitate  the  state  into  secession. 
The  legislature,  at  the  same  period,  passed  what  was  termed  the  "Military  Bill," 
which  was,  in  the  language  of  General  Harney,  "  an  indirect  secession  ordinance, 
ignoring  even  the  forms  resorted  to  by  other  states."  This  bill  gave  the  governor 
despotic  power;  three  million  of  dollars  were  to  be  placed  in  his  hands;  author 
ity  was  given  him  to  draw  for  soldiers  as  long  as  there  was  a  man  left  unarmed, 
and  to  question  the  justness  of  his  conduct  was  to  incur  the  death  penalty.  Every 
soldier  was  required  to  take  an  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  State  of  Missouri. 

At  Linden's  grove,  in  the  outskirts  of  St.  Louis,  a  camp  was  formed,  called 
Camp  Jackson.  The  principal  avenues  were  named  Beauregard,  Davis,  etc.,  and 
a  quantity  of  arms,  shot,  and  shell,  stolen  from  the  U.  S.  arsenal  at  Baton  Rouge, 
was  received  there,  which  had  come  up  the  river  in  boxes  marked  "Marble,1'. 
" Nails,"  and  "  Collin's  Axes."  A  secession  flag  was  displayed;  the  troops  were 
constantly  cheering  for  Jeff.  Davis  and  the  Southern  Confederacy;  prominent 
union  men  visiting  the  camp  were  insulted  and  hailed  as  federal  spies.  It  was  a 
secession  camp  and  nothing  else.  In  all  it  contained  about  1000  men,  under  Gen 
eral  D.  M.  Frost. 

On  the  6th  of  May  the  police  commissioners  of  St.  Louis  insolently  demanded 
of  Captain  Nathaniel  Lyon,  the  officer  in  command  of  the  arsenal,  that  he  should 
remove  the  United  States  troops  from  all  places  and  buildings  occupied  bv  them 
outside  of  the  arsenal,  on  the  ground  that  the  United  States  government  had  no 
right  to  occupy  or  touch  the  soil  of  the  sovereign  State  of  Missouri. 

Captain  Lyon,  on  his  own  responsibility,  on  the  10th  summoned  the  home  guard 
of  the  city  (composed  largely  of  Germans,)  whom  he  had  provided  with  arms  at 
the  arsenal,  to  assemble  at  their  different  posts,  at  noon,  for  an  unknown  service. 
At  two  o'clock  the  whole  town  was  greatly  agitated  by  the  tidings  that  some  7000 
men,  with  20  pieces  of  artillery,  under  Captain  Lyon,  were  marching  up  Market 
street  for  Camp  Jackson.  On  their  arrival  they  rapidly  surrounded  it,  planting 
batteries  upon  all  the  commanding  hights. 

Upon  learning  of  their  approach,  General  Frost  sent  a  note  to  Captain  Lyon, 
disowning  any  disloyal  intentions  on  their  part ;  that  they  had  simply  gathered  in 
obedience  to  the  laws  of  the  state  for  instruction.  Captain  Lyon  refused  to  re 
ceive  this  communication,  and  dispatched  one  to  General  Frost  demanding  his 
unconditional  surrender  within  "one  half  hour's  time.''  The  demand  was  agreed 
to,  and  they,  to  the  number  of  800,  were  made  prisoners  of  war,  marched  to  the 
arsenal,  and,  for  the  time,  held  there  under  guard,  excepting  those  who  were  will 
ing  to  take  the  oath  of  allegiance :  of  these  there  were  less  than  a  dozen.  On  the 
return  of  the  troops  to  the  city,  they  were  not  only  taunted  and  spit  upon  by  the 
mob,  but  revolvers  were  discharged  at  them,  when  the  former  turned  and  fired 
into  the  crowd,  wounding  and  killing  twenty-two  persons,  mostly  innocent  spec 
tators. 

The  energetic  measures  of  Captain  Lyon  for  the  time  awed  the  secession  spirit 
of  the  city  and  vicinity;  and  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  brigadier  general  of 
volunteers  and  given  command  of  the  union  forces  in  Missouri. 

Skirmish  at  BooneviUe. — Union  men,  of  all  parties  throughout  the  state,  at  this 
period  began  to  be  proscribed  and  driven  from  their  homes.  Governor  Jackson, 
who,  with  General  Sterling  Price,  had  assembled  a  large  force  of  State  troops,  at 
the  capital,  Jefferson  City,  learned  that  General  Lyon  was  on  his  way  to  attack 


IN  MISSOURI.  593 

him,  on  the  15th  of  June  fled  with  his  forces  to  Boonville,  forty  miles,  above,  burn 
ing,  as  they  went,  the  railroad  bridges  oiv  the  route.  Thither  <re»eral  Lyon, 
with  2000  men,  pursued  and  defeated  them  in  a  slight  skirmish,  in  which  they 
broke  ranks  and  ingloriously  fled.  Lyon  took  their  camp  equipage  and  a  large 
number  of  prisoners,  many  of  whom  being  of  immature  age,  "misguided  youths, 
led  astray  by  ingeniously  devised  frauds-  of  designing  leaders,"  he  liberated  oa 
condition  that  they  should  not  serve  against  the  United  States.  "  But  levst,  as  in 
the  affair  of  Camp  Jackson,  this  clemency  should  be  misconstrued,  he  gave  warn 
ing  that  the  government  would  not  always  be  expected  to  indulge  in  it  to  the  com 
promise  of  its  evident  welfare." 

Action  near  Carthage. — In  the  beginning  of  July  General  Lyon  left  Boonville 
in  pursuit  of  the  enemy  in  the  south-western  portion  of  the  state.  On  the  5th 
Colonel  Franz  Sigel  had  a  brilliant  tight  with  the  enemy  in  the  viciuity  of  Car 
thage,  he  having  been  sent  into  that  section  of  country  just  after  the  affair  at 


caralry  any  five  pieces  of  artillery.  Early  in  the  morning  Sigel  marched  from 
hi«  camp  just  south-east  of  Carthage,  and  nine  miles  north  of  that  place  found 
the  enemy,  at  half  past  nine  o'clock,  drawn  up  in  line  of  battle,  on  elevated 
ground  of  a  priirie,  just  beyond  Dry  Run  Creek.  By  most  skillful  maneuver 
ing  Sigel  defeated  them  and  continued  his  retreat  with  but  insignificant  loss— 
the  enemy  suffering  severely. 

Early  in  July  General  "Fremont  was  appointed  to  the  command  of 
the  Western  Department,  and  made  his  headquarters  at  St.  Louis. 
His  arrival  was  at  the  season *)f  gloom  and  despondency  consequent 
upon  tne  defeat  at  Manassas.  Of  the  new  levies  of  federal  troops  few 
were  in  the  field  :  the  term  of  enlistment  of  the  three-months'  men 
was  just  expiring,  while  50,000  rebel  soldiers  were  on  the  southern 
frontier.  General  Pope  was  in  north  Missouri  with  nearly  all  the  dis 
posable  force,  and  Lyon  was  at  Springfield  with  an  army  of  less  than 
6000  men,  threatened  by  an  enemy  nearly  four  times  his  own  number. 
There  was  danger,  also,  on  the  Mississippi  river,  where  General  Pil 
low,  from  New  Madrid,  was  threatening  General  Prentiss  and  his  small 
force,  at  Cairo.  Unable  to  reinforce  General  Lyon,  that  gallant  officer 
made  the  best  possible  use  of  the  small  force  at  his  disposal.  On  the 
1st  of  August,  learning  that  the  enemy,  under  McCulloch  and  Price 
were  advancing  upon  him,  he  went  out  to  meet  them,  and  the  next 
day  had  a  severe  skirmish  at  Dug  Spring,  the  enemy  suffering  from  a 
very  successful  charge  of  the  United  States  cavalry.  This  was  fol 
lowed  by  a  general  engagement,  on  the  10th  of  the  same,  month,  in 
which  Lyon  lost  his  life  in  a  noble  but  unequal  struggle. 

Battle  of  Wilson's  Creek. — The  rebels,  under  Ben  McCulloch  were  from  20,000 
to  25,000  in  number,  the  union  forces  under  Lyon,  less  than  6000.  The  union 
general,  having  learned  that  the  enemy  was  meditating  an  attack,  determined  to 
become  the  attacking  party,  as  that  plan  promised  the  greatest  success.  Accord 
ing,  on  Friday  evening,  August  9th,  General  Lyon  set  out  from  Springfield,  with 
the  intention  of  falling  upon  the  enemy  next  morning  at  daylight.  His  little 
army  was  divided  into  two  columns :  one  of  3700  men,  under  his  own  command  ; 
the  other  of  1500,  under  Colonel  Sigel,  who  had  orders  to  attack  the  enemy  at  a 
point  three  miles  distanttrom  that  to  be  assailed  by  the  main  column. 

The  result  is  told,  in  a  few  lines,  by  one  who  was,  at  the  time,  within  the  south 
ern  lines,  and  who  wrote  from  his  own  knowledge  and  from  information  received 
from  those  who  took  a  part  in  the  conflict.  He  says:  "Notwithstanding  McCul- 
loch's  reputation  as  a  wary  and  watchful  chief,  his  army,  outnumbering  the  enemy 
three  or  four  to  one,  wan  completely  surprised.  Indeed,  so  silent  was  the  march, 
38 


594  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

so  perfect  th'e  plan  of  attack,  that  the  first  notice  they  had  of  the  enemy's  pres 
ence  was  the  shot  and  shell  from  the  batteries  of  Totten  and  Sigel  falling  into  the 
very  heart  of  their  camp.  The  federal  accounts  claim  that  success  would  not  have 
been  doubtful  had  the  gallant  Lyon  lived  half  an  hour  longer.  But  the  panic  that 
prevailed  among  the  rebels,  and  how  very  nearly  the  field  was  lost,  could  only  be 
told  by  those  whose  reports  have  never  seen  the  light.  I  have  heard  persons  who 
were  upon  the  field  say  that,  many  were  still  asleep,  many  preparing  breakfast,  and 
others  eating,  when  the  enemy's  artillery  opened  upon  them.  Many  fled  at  the  first 
alarm;  but  a  large  army  still  remained.  The  contest  was  long  and  doubtful,  till 
Lyon,  bravely  leading  a  charge  in  person,  fell.  The  union  forces  then  withdrew, 
under  the  command  of  Major  S.  D.  Sturgis.  The  movement  of  Sigel.  in  the  end, 
proved  unsuccessful.  He  was  compelled  to  retire  with  the  loss  ot  nearly  Jill  his 
artillery." 

The  official  report  of  our  loss  was  1235.  The  1st  Kansas  and  1st  Missouri,  each 
lost  about  half  of  their  entire  number.  The  rebels  reported  their  loss  at  1738. 
Sturgis,  in  his  report,  thought  it  "probably  would  reach  300U  '' 

The  result  of  the  battle  made  it  necessary  for  the  remnant  of 
Lyon's  army  to  retreat,  which  was  effected  in  good  order,  under  Sigel, 
upon  whom  the  command  now  devolved.  Hundreds  of  citizens  ac 
companied  the  army ;  and  south-western  Missouri  was  overrun  and 
devastated  by  the  rebels. 

The  Siege  of  Lexington — On  Wednesday  the  llth  of  September,  a  force  of 
2640  union  soldiers  were  in  Lexington,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Jas.  B. 
Mulligan,  (a  young  lawyer  of  Chicago,  of  Irish  parentage),  when  the  advance  of 
the  enemy  approached  the  town,  which  in  a  few  days  was  increased  to  30,000 
men,  under  General  Sterling  Price.  In  the  nlean  while  our  troops  had  built  en 
trenchments  around  their  camp,  inclosing  some  fifteen  acres,  including  within  its 
limits  the  college  buildings.  Price  invested  the  works  on  the  12th,  but  no  direct 
assault  was  made  until  the  18th.  The  little  band  heroically  held  his  large  army  at 
bay;  but  all  access  to  the  river  being  cut  off  they  suffered  intensely  for  water,  and 
it  was  not  until  their  provisions  were  exhausted  and  nearly  the  last  cartridge 
fired  that  they  surrendered. 

General  Price  obtained  considerable  eclat  by  a  stratagem  he  used  in  approach 
ing  the  union  lines.  He  made  a  movable  breastwork  of  hempen  bales  of  some 
twenty  rods  in  length,  behind  the  cover  of  which  his  men,  as  they  rolled  them 
ahead,  advanced  in  security  close  up  to  the  union  works.  He  was  not  a  rebel  at 
heart:  but  he  had,  against  his  better  nature,  been  seduced  into  treason.  After 
the  surrender  he  chided  one  of  his  men  for  indignities  offered  to  the  union  flag, 
closing  his  rebuke  with  the  expression,  "  1  yet  love  that  flag." 

Price  was  endeared  to  the  people  of  Missouri  by  generous  and  noble  personal 
traits;  and,  when  he  sided  with  the  rebel  cause,  these  qualities,  by  their  influ 
encing  others  into  error,  were  productive  of  greater  evil  .than  could  have  been  in 
the  power  of  any  mere  villain  with  superior  intellectual  force  to  have  inflicted. 

Battle  of  Belmont. — Belmont  is  a  point  on  the  Mississippi  river, 
nearly  opposite  Columbus,  Ky.  It  is  about  twenty  miles  below  Cairo, 
and  was  the  scene  of  one  General  Grant's  first  battles.  His  whole 
force  in  this  battle,  which  took  place  on  the  7th  of  November,  1861, 
was  2850.  He  lost  507  men ;  the  rebels  966,  beside  their  entire  en 
campment  with  valuable  stores.  The  following  account  is  given  by 
one  present. 

Landing  two  and  half  miles  above  Belmont,  it  was  two  hours  before  we  had 
disposed  our  men  in  line  of  battle  to  engage  the  enemy ;  thus  giving  them  full 
time  for  preparation,  and  to  come  out  and  meet  U8,  when  the  engagement  soon  be 
came  general.  Although  the  enemy  were  two  to  our  one  we  never  faltered,  but 
drove  them  from  one  stronghold  to  another,  until  we  were  told  to  charge  the  bat 
teries.  The  enthusiasm  of  our  men,  on  receiving  this  order,  beggars  description  ; 
some  threw  off  their  coats,  all  whooped  and  yelled,  and  each  man  went  to  work  as 


IN  MISSOURI.  r>05 

though  the  taking  of  the  batteries  depended  on  his  own  exertions;  they  leaped 
like  cats,  irom  log  to  Jog,  and  from  brush  to  brush,  sometimes  running,  sometimes 
crawling,  never  wavering  until  they  had  tafcen  the  enemy's  last  gun.  Our  bms 
drove  them  through  their  encampment,  and  down  the  river  bank,  taking  their 
tents,  stores,  and  baggage. 

Our  men  and  officers  were  so  elated  with  thair  victory,  that  they  went  round  sha 
king  hands  and  congratulating  one  another  on  the  result,  and  General  Grunt's 
order  to  fall  into  line  and  retire  to  their  transports  was  not  executed  as  rapidly  as 
it  should  have  been,  and  some  half  an  hour  was  consumed  in  these  manifestations, 
until  the  enemy  had  outflanked  us,  by  landing  the  rebel  general,  Cheatham's  bri 
gade — fresh  troops  from  Columbus — between  us  and  our  transports.  This  move 
ment  was  concealed  from  us  by  the  bend  of  the  river.  No  alternative  was  left 
but  to  fight  it  out,  and  cut  our  way  through  the  serried  columns.  The  order  to 
march  was  given,  and,  although  our  troops  had  had  six  hours  of  hard  fighting 
they  did  not  appear  weary,  but  attacked  the  enemy  with  renewed  vigor  and  drove 
him  back,  and  cut  their  way  through  his  ranks  to  our  transports.  Beaten  again, 
the  enemy  planted  their  new,  fresh  artillery,  supported  by  infantry,  in  a  cornfield 
just  above  our  transports,  with  the  intention  of  sinking  them,  when  we  started 
up  the  river,  and  of  bagging  the  entire  army ;  but  thanks  to  the  gunboats,  Lex 
ington  and  Tyler,  and  their  experienced  gunners,  they  saved  us  from  a  terrible 
and  certain  doom;  they  took  up  a  position  between  us  and  the  enemy,  and  opened 
their  guns  upon  them,  letting  slip  a  whole  broadside  at  once.  This  movement 
was  performed  so  quick  that  the  rebel  guns  were  si  fenced  as  soon  as  they  opened. 
The  first  shot  from  the  gunboats  was  a  cannister-shot,  and  it  made  a  perfect  lane 
through  the  enemy's  ranks.  Defeated  in  this — their  third  movement — the  enemy's 
infantry  broke  for  our  transports,  and  as  we  pushed  from  shore  they  fired  upon 
us  until  we  got  out  of  range,  their  bullets  coming  on  our  transports  <k  like  hail 
upon  a  meeting  house,"  but  they  did  but  little  execution. 

Price,  after  the  fall  of  Lexington,  finding  himself  unable  to  hold  it, 
retreated  to  the  south-west,  with  Fremont  in  pursuit.  Many  inci 
dents  of  interest  took  place,  which  have  become  obscure  in  conse 
quence  of  the  more  brilliant  occurrences  of  a  war  abounding  in  splen 
did  exploits.  But  the  famous  charge  of  Fremont's  body-guard,  at 
Springfield,  on  the  25th  of  October,  1861,  remains  memorable.  It  is 
thrillingly  described  by  a  writer  in  the  Atlantic  Monthly  : 

Among  the  foreign  officers  whom  the  famous  General  Frefcont  drew  around 
him  was  Charles  Zagonyi — a  Hungarian  refugee,  but  long  a  resident  of  this 
country.  Tn  his  boyhood,  Zagonyi  had  plunged  into  the  passionate,  but  unavail 
ing  struggle  which  Hungary  made  for  her  liberty. 

General  Fremont  welcomed  Zagonyi  cordially,  and  authorized  him  to  recruit  a 
company  of  horse,  to  act  as  his  body-guard.  Zagonyi  was  most  scrupulous  in  his 
selection ;  but  so  ardent  was  the  desire  to  serve  under  the  eye  and  near  the  per 
son  of  the  general,  that  in  five  days  after  the  lists  were  opened  two  full  companies 
were  enlisted.  Soon  after  a  whole  company,  composed  of  the  very  flower  of  Ken 
tucky,  tendered  its  services,  and  requested  to  be  added  to  the  guard.  Zagonyi 
was  still  overwhelmed  with  applications,  and  he  obtained  permission  to  re 
cruit  a  fourth  company.  The  fourth  company,  however,  did  not  go  with  us  into 
the  field.  The  men  were  clad  in  blue  jackets,  trowsers,  and  caps.  They  were 
armed  with  light  German  sabers,  the  best  that  at  that  time  could  be  procured,  and 
revolvers  ;  besides  which,  the  first  company  carried  carbines.  They  were  mounted 
upon  bay  horses,  carefully  chosen  from  the  government  stables.  Zagonyi  had  but 
little  time  to  instruct  his  recruits;  but  in  less  than  a  month  from  the  commence 
ment  of  the  enlistment  the  body-guard  was  a  well  disciplined  and  most  efficient 
corps  of  cavalry.  The  officers  were  all  Americans  except  three — one  Hollander, 
and  two  Hungarians,  Zagonyi  and  Lieutenant  Maythenyi,  who  came  to  the  United 
States  during  his  boyhood. 

On  the  prairie,  near  the  town,  at  the  edge  of  the  woodland  in  which  he  knew 
his  wily  foe  lay  hidden,  Zagonyi  halted  his  command.  He  spurred  along  the 


596  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

line.  With  eager  glance  he  scanned  each  horse  and  rider.  To  his  officers  he  gave 
tho  simple  order,  "Follow  me!  do  as  I  do!"  and  then  drawing  up  in  front  of  his 
men,  with  a  voice  tremulous  and  shrill  with  emotion,  he  vspoke  : 

"  FELLOW-SOLDIERS,  COMRADES,  BROTHERS  ! — This  is  your  first  battle.  For  our  three  hun 
dred  the  enemy  are  two  thousand.  If  any  of  you  are  sick,  or  tired  by  the  long  march,  or 
if  any  think  the  number  is  to  great,  now  is  the  time  to  torn  back."  He  paused  ;  no  one 
was  sick  or  tired.  "  We  must  not  retreat.  Our  honor  and  the  honor  of  our  general  and 
our  country,  tell  us  to  go  on.  I  will  lead  you.  We  have  been  called  holiday  soldiers  for 
the  pavements  of  St.  Louis  ;  to-day  we  will  show  that  we  are  soldiers  for  the  battle. 
Your  watchword  shall  be,  '  The  Union  and  Fremont!'  Draw  saber  I  By  the  right  flank — 
quick  trot — march  1 " 

»  Bright  swords  flashed  in  the  sunshine,  a  passionate  shout  burst  from  every  lip, 
and,  with  one  accord,  the  trot  passing  into  a  gallop,  the  compact  column  swept  on 
to  its  deadly  purpose.  Most  of  them  were  hoys.  A  few  weeks  before  they  had 
left  their  homes.  Those  who  were  cool  enough  to  note  it  say  that  ruddy  cheeks 
grew  pale,  and  fiery  eyes  were  dimmed  with  tears.  Who  shall  tell  what  thoughts, 
what  visions  of  peaceful  cottages  nestling  among  the  groves  of  Kentucky  or  shi 
ning  upon  the  banks  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Illinois,  what  sad  recollections  of  tearful 
farewells,  of  tender,  loving  faces,  filled  their  minds  during  these  fearful  momenta 
of  suspense?  No  word  was  spoken.  With  lips  compressed,  firmly  clenching  their 
sword-hilts,  with  quick  tramp  of  hoofs  and  clank  of  steel,  honor  leading  and  glory 
awaiting  them,  the  young  soldiers  flew  forward,  each  brave  rider  and  each  strain 
ing:  steed  of  one  huge  creature,  enormous,  terrible,  irresistible. 
"  'T  were  worth  ten  years  of  peaceful  life, 
One  glance  at  their  array." 

They  pass  the  fair  ground.  They  are  at  the  corner  of  the  lane  where  the  wood 
begins.  It  runs  close  to  the  fence  on  their  left  for  a  hundred  yards,  and  beyond 
it  they  see  white  tents  gleaming  They  are  half  way  past  the  forest,  when,  sharp 
and  loud,  a  volley  of  musketry  bursts  upon  the  head  of  the  column;  horses  stag 
ger,  riders  reel  and  fall,  but  the  troop  presses  forward  undismayed.  The  further 
corner  of  the  road  is  readied,  and  Zagonyi  beholds  the  terrible  array.  Amazed, 
he  involuntarily  checks  his  horse.  The  rebels  are  not  surprised.  There,  to  his 
left,  they  stood  crowning  the  hight,  foot  and  horse,  ready  to  ingulf  him,  if  he 
should  be  rash  enough  to  go  on.  The  road  he  is  following  declines  rapidly.  There 
is  but  one  thing  to  do — run  the  gauntlet,  gain  the  cover  of  the  hill,  and  charge  up 
the  steep.  These  thoughts  pass  quicker  then  they  can  be  told,  lie  waves  his  sa 
ber  over  his  head,  and  shouting,  "  Forward  !  follow  me  !  quick  trot!  gallop  !  "  he 
dashes  headlong  cU>wn  the  stony  road.  The  first  company  and  most  of  the  second 
follow.  From  the  left  a  thousand  muzzles  belch  forth  a  hissing  flood  of  bullets; 
the  poor  fellows  clutch  wildly  at  the  air  and  fall- from  their  saddles,  and  maddened 
horses  throw  themselves  against  the  fences.  Their  speed  is  not  for  an  instant 
checked;  farther  down  the  hill  they  fly,  like  wasps  driven  by  the  leaden  storm. 
Sharp  volleys,  pour  out  of  the  underbrush  at  the  left,  clearing  wide  gaps  through 
their  ranks.  They  leap  the  brook,  take  down  the  fence,  and  draw  up  under  the 
shelter  of  the  hill.  Zagonyi  looked  around  him,  and  to  his  horror  sees  that  only 
a  fourth  of  his  men  are  with  him.  He  cries,  "They  do  not  come — we  are  lost!" 
and  frantically  waves  his  saber. 

He  had  not  long  to  wait.  The  delay  of  the  rest  of  the  guard  was  not  from  hes 
itation.  When  Captain  Foley  reached  the  lower  corner  of  the  wood,  and  saw  the  • 
enemy's  line,  he  thought  a  flank  attack  might  be  advantageously  made.  He  or 
dered  some  of  his  men  to  dismount  and  take  down  the  fence.  This  was  done 
under  a  severe  fire.  Several  men  fell,  and  he  found  the  wood  so  dense  that  it 
could  not  be  penetrated.  Looking  down  the  hill,  he  saw  the  flash  of  Zagonyi's 
Haber,  and  at  once  gave  the  order,  "  Forward  !"  At  the  same  time,  Lieutenant 
Kennedy,  a  stalwart  Kentuckian,  shouted,  "Come  on,  boys!  remember  old  Ken 
tucky  !  "  and  the  third  company  of  the  guard,  fire  on  every  side  of  them — from  be 
hind  trees,  from  under  the  fences — with  thundering  strides  and  loud  cheers, 
poured  down  the  slope  and  rushed  to  the  side  of  Zagonyi.  They  have  lost  sev 
erity  dead  and  wounded  men,  and  the  carcases  of  horses  are  strewn  along  the  lane. 
Kennedy  is  wounded  in  the  arm,  and  lies  upon  the  stones,  his  faithful  charger 


IN  MISSOURI. 


597 


standing  motionless  beside  him.  Lieutenant  Goff  received  a  wound  in  the  thigh  ; 
he  kept  his  seat,  and  cried  out,  "  The  devils  have  hit  me,  but  1  will  give  it  to 
them  yet!  " 

The  guard  is  formed  under  the  shelter  of  the  hill.  In  front,  with  a  gentle  in 
clination,  rises  a  grassy  slope  broken  by  occasional  tree  stumps.  A  line  of  fir»> 
upon  the  summit  marks  the  position  of  the  rebel  infantry,  and  nearer  and  on  the 
top  of  a  lower  eminence  to  the  right  stand  their  horse.  Up  to  this  time  no  guards 
man  has  struck  a  blow,  but  blue  coats  and  bay  horses  lie  thick  along  the  bloody 
lane.  Their  titne  has  come.  Lieutenant  Maythenyi,  with  thirty  men,  is  ordered 
to  attack  the  cavalry.  With  sabers  flashing  over  their  heads,  the  little  band  of 
heroes  spring  toward  their  tremendous  foe.  Right  upon  the  center  they  charge. 
The  dense  mass  opens,  the  blue  coats  force  their  way  in,  and  the  whole  rebel 
squadron  scatter  in  disgraceful  flight  through  the  cornfields  in  the  rear.  The  bays 
follow  them,  sabering  the  fugitives.  Days  after,  the  enemy's  horses  lay  thick 
among  the  uncut  corn. 

Zagonyi  holds  his  main  body  until  Maythenyi  disappears  in  the  cloud  of  rebel 
cavalry;  then  his  voice  rises  through  the  air — "In  open  order — charge!"  The 
line  opens  out  to  give  play  to  the  sword-arm.  Steeds  respond  to  the  ardor  of  their 
riders,  and,  quick  as  thought,  with  thrilling  cheers,  the  noble  hearts  rush  into  the 
leaden  torrent  which  pours  down  the  incline.  With  unabated  fire  the  gallant  fel 
lows  press  through.  Their  fierce  onset  is  not  even  checked.  The  foe  do  not  wait 
for  them — they  waver,  break,  and  fly.  The  guardsmen  press  into  the  midst  of 
the  rout,  and  their  fast  falling  swords  work  a  terrible  revenge.  Some  of  the  bold 
est  of  the  southrons  retreat  into  the  woods,  and  continue  a  murderous  fire  from 
behind  trees  and  thickets.  Seven  guard  horses  fall  oh  a  space  not  more  than 
twenty  feet  square.  As  his  steed  sinks  under  him,  one  of  the  officers  is  caught 
around  the  shoulders  by  a  grape-vine,  and  hangs  dangling  in  the  air  until  he  is 
cut  down  by  his  friends. 

The  rebel  foot  are  flying  in  furious  haste  from  the  field.  Some  take  refuge  in 
the  fair-ground,  some  hurry  into  the  cornfield,  but  the  greater  part  run  along  the 
edge  of  the  wood,  swarm  over  the  fence  into  the  road,  and  hasten  to  the  village. 
The  guardsmen  follow.  Zagonyi  leads  them.  Over  the  loudest  roar  of  battle 
rings  his  clarion  voice — "  Come  on,  old  Kentuck  !  I'm  with  you!  "  And  the  flash 
of  his  sword-blade  tells  his  men  where  to  go.  As  he  approaches  a  barn  a  man 
steps  from  behind  the  door  and  lowers  his  rifle ;  but  before  he  had  reached  the 
level,  Zagonyi's  saber-point  descended  upon  his  head,  and  his  life-blood  leaps  to 
the  very  top  of  the  huge  barn-door. 

The  conflict  now  rages  through  the  village — in  the  public  square  and  along  the 
street.  Up  and  down  the  guard  ride  in  squads  of  three  or  four,  and,  wherever 
they  see  a  group  of  the  enemy,  charge  upon  and  scatter  them.  It  is  hand  to  hand. 
No  one  but  has  a  share  in  the  fray. 

There  was  at  least  one  soldier  in  the  southern  ranks.  A  young  officer,  superbly 
mounted,  charged  alone  upon  a  large  body  of  the  guard.  He  passed  through  the 
line  unscathed,  killing  one  man.  He  wheels,  charges  back,  and  again  breaks 
through,  killing  another  man.  A  third  time  he  rushes  upon  the  union  line,  a 
score  of  saber-points  confront  him,  but  he  pushes  on  until  he  reaches  Zagonyi — 
he  presses  his  pistol  so  close  to  the  major's  side  that  he  feels  it  and  draws  convul 
sively  back,  the  bullet  passes  through  the  front  of  Zagoni's  coat,  who  at  the  same 
instant  runs  the  daring  rebel  through  the  body;  he  falls,  and  the  men,  thinking 
their  commander  hurt,  kill  him  with  a  half  dozen  wounds. 

"  He  was  a  brave  man,"  said  Zagonyi  afterward,  "  and  I  did  wish  to  make  him 
prisoner." 

Meanwhile  it  has  grown  dark.  The  foe  has  left  the  village,  and  the  battle  has 
ceased.  The  assembly  is  sounded,  and  the  guard  gathers  in  the  plaza.  Not  more 
than  eighty  mounted  men  appear;  the  rest  are  killed,  wounded,  or  unhorsed.  At 
this  time  one  of  the  most  characteristic  incidents  of  the  affair  took  place. 

Just  before  the  charge,  Zagoni  directed  one  of  his  buglers,  a  Frenchman,  to 
sound  a  signal.  The  bugler  did  not  seem  to  pay  any  attention  to  the  order,  but 
darted  after  Lieutenant  Maythenyi.  A  few  moments  afterward  he  was  observed 
in  another  part  of  the  field  busily  pursuing  the  flying  infantry.  His  active  form 


598  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

was  always  seen  in  the  thickest  of  the  fight.  When  the  line  was  termed  in  Hie 
plaza,  Zagonyi  noticed  the  bugler,  and  approaching  him  said,  "In  the  midst  of 
the  battle  you  disobeyed  my  order.  You  are  unworthy  to.be  a  member  of  the 
guard.  I  dismiss  you."  The  bugler  showed  his  bugle  to  his  indignant  com 
mander — the  mouth-piece  of  the  instrument  was  shot  away.  He  said,  "The 
mouth  was  shoot  off.  I  could  not  bugle  viz  mon  hugle,  and  so  I  bugle  viz  mon  pis 
tol  and  saber."  It  is  unnecessary  to  add  the  brave  Frenchman  was  not  dismissed. 

1  must  not  forget  to  mention  Sergeant  Hunter  of  the  Kentucky  company.  His 
soldierly  figure  never  failed  to  attract  the  eye  in  the  ranks  of  the  guard.  He  had 
served  in  the  regular  cavalry;  and  the  bodyguard  had  profited  greatly  from  his 
skill  as  a  drill-master.  He  lost  three  horses  in  the  fight.  As  ^oon  as  one  was 
killed  he  caught  another  from  the  rebels:  the  third  horse  taken  in  this  way  he 
rode  into  St.  Louis. 

The  sergeant  slew  five  men.  "I  won't  speak  of  those  that  I  shot,"  said  he, 
"another  may  have  hit  them;  but  these  I  touched  with  my  saber  I  am  sure  of,  be 
cause  I  felt  them." 

At  the  beginning  of  the  charge,  he  came  to  the  extreme  right  and  took  position 
next  to  Zagonyi,  whom  he  followed  closely  through  the  battle.  The  major,  seeing 
him,  said : 

"  Why  are  you  here,  Sergeant  Hunter  ?  Your  place  is  with  your  company  on 
the  left." 

"  I  kind  o'  wanted  to  be  in  the  front,"  was  the  answer. 

"What  could  I  say  to  such  a  man?"  exclaimed  Zagonyi,  speaking  of  the  mat 
ter  afterward. 

There  was  hardly  a  horse  or  rider  among  the  survivors  that  did  not  bring  away 
some  mark  of  the  fray.  1  saw  one  animal  with  no  less  than  seven  wounds — none 
of  them  serious.  Scabbards  were  bent,  clothes  and  caps  pierced,  pistols  injured. 
I  saw  one  pistol  from  which  the  sight  had  been  cut  as  neatly  as  it  could  have  been 
done  by  machinery.  A  piece  of  board  a  few  inches  long  was  cut  from  a  fence  on 
the  field,  in  which  there  were  thirty-one  shot  holes. 

It  was  now  nine  o'clock.  The  wounded  had  been  carried  to  the  hospital.  The 
dismounted  troopers  had  been  placed  in  charge  of  them — in  the  double  capacity 
of  nurses  and  guards.  Zagonyi  expected  the  foe  to  return  every  minute.  It 
seemed  like  madness  to  try  and  hold  the  town  with  his  small  force,  exhausted  by 
the  long  march  and  desperate  fight.  He  therefore  left  Springfield,  and  retired,  be 
fore  morning,  twenty-five  miles  on  the  Bolivar  road. 

The  loss  of  the  enemy,  was  116  killed.  The  number  of  wounded  could  not  be 
ascertained.  After  the  conflict  had  drifted  away  from  the  hill-side,  some  of  the 
foe  had  returned  to  the  field,  taken  away  their  wounded  and  robbed  our  dead. 
The  loss  of  the  guard  was  53  out  of  148  actually  engaged,  12  men  having  been  left 
by  Zagonyi  in  charge  of  his  train. 

The  fame  of  the  guard  is  secure.  Out  from  that  fiery  baptism  they  came  child 
ren  of  the  nation  ;  and  American  song  and  story  will  carry  their  heroic  triumph 
down  to  the  latest  generation. 

Fremont's  campaign  in  south-western  Missouri  was  arrested  by  an 
order  from  the  War  Department,  at  the  beginning  of  November. 
Fremont,  at  that  time,  was  deprived  of  command  in  Missouri,  and 
a  new  campaign  was  prosecuted  in  the  south-west,  with  signal  ability 
and  success,  under  General  Curtis,  who  drove  the  confederate  forces 
out  of  the  state  into  Arkansas ;  and  after  Sterling  Price  had  formed  a 
junction  with  YanDorn  and  McCulloch,  he  defeated  their  combined 
forces  in  the  memorable  battle  of  Pea  Ridge,  just  on  the  south-west 
line  of  the  state. 

While  Price's  army  was  on  its  retreat  they  passed  through  Fay ette- 
ville,  just  over  the  state  line.  This  beautiful  mountain-town  was  the 
brightest  spot  in  all  Arkansas.  Several  literary  institutions,  con- 
el  acted  by  northern-born  men,  were  blessing  this  entire  region  of 


IN  MISSOURI. 

country.  Light,  knowledge,  and.  Christian  love  were  spreading 
among  the  people,  and  a  pure,  moral  tone  diffused  into  the  society  of 
the  place.  William  Baxter,  president  of  one  of  these  institutions,  in 
his  frank-hearted  and  .artless  little  volume,  "Pea  Ridge  and  Prairie 
Grove"  tells  us  how,  on  this  retreat  of  Price,  his  men  conducted  them 
selves,  on  their  arrival  at  his  town. 

I  was  somewhat  familiar  with  the  great  retreats  in  history,  but  never  before 
had  I  realized  the  full  meaning  of  the  term.  Early  in  the  morning  of  the  21st 
of  February,  the  Missouri  army,  which  had  been  marching  day  and  night,  con 
stantly  harassed  by  the  enemy,  made  its  appearance ,  the  roads  were  bad,  their 
clothing,  their  looks  dispirited,  no  music  to  cheer  them,  no  bright  prospects  be 
fore — it  was  a  practical  picture  of  secession;  and  O  how  sadly  did  the  Missouri 
troops  secede  from  their  beloved  state  !  thousands  of  them,  alas,  never  to  return ! 
One  of  the  officers,  the  judge  advocate  of  Price's  army,  stopped  a  while  at  my 
house,  and  wept  like  a  child  at  the  thought  of  leaving  home  and  country  behind. 
There  are  many  others,  who  complain  bitterly  because  McCulloch  had  not  come 
to  their  aid,  to  enable  them  to  make  a  stand,  on  their  own  soil  against  the  foe  now 
eagerly  pressing  upon  their  rear. 

The  officers  of  the  commissary  and  quartermaster's  department,  unable  to  re 
move  their  stores,  threw  open  the  various  depots  to  the  soldiers  and  citizens; 
the  permission  thus  granted  was  construed  into  a  general  license  to  plunder,  and 
pillage  soon  became  the  order  of  the  day.  An  officer,  fearing  the  effects  of  liquor 
upon  a  wearied,  pursued,  and  reckless  soldiery,  took  the  precaution  to  burst  in 
the  heads  of  a  number  of  barrels  of  whisky,  which  constituted  a  portion  of  the 
army  stores,  and  the  cellar  was  soon  several  inches  deep  with  the  precious  fluid. 
By  some  means  the  place  was  discovered,  and  scores  drank  the  filthy  puddle  which 
the  spilled  liquor  had  made.  Private  stores  were  broken  open,  and  every  one 
helped  himself  to  whatever  suited  him;  and  as  regiment  after  regiment  poured 
in  to  swell  the  tide  of  waste  and  robbery,  the  scene  became  one  of  riot  and  unre 
strained  plunder.  And  yet,  strange  to  say,  this  was  not  in  an  enemy's  country; 
these  men  claimed  to  be  the  defenders  of  the  very  people  that  they  were  despoil 
ing;  and  at  that  very  moment  the  men  of  Arkansas  were  acting  as  rear-guard  to 
this  very  army,  engaged,  hundreds  of  them,  as  I  have  just  stated.  Passing  among 
them  as  I  did  while  thus  employed,  so  general  had  the  work  of  destruction  and 
plunder  become,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  find  a  single  soldier  who  did  nofe 
possess  some  evidence  of  being  carried  away  by  the  spirit  of  the  hour.  Here  was 
one  with  a  cigar  box  half  filled  with  sugar,  another  with  a  pair  of  lady's  gaiters 
sticking  out  of  his  pocket;  this  had  a  pair  of  baby's  shoes,  that,  some  fine  lace; 
artificial  flowers  adorned  the  caps  of  some;  while  jars  of  pickles,  tin  cups  full  of 
molasses,  tape,  calico,  school-books,  letters,  law  papers,  sheets  of  tin-plate,  in  fact 
nearly  every  article  known  to  traffic,  even  to  a  thermometer,  might  have  been  seen 
in  the  motley  throng.  Indeed,  any  one  could  see  at  a  glance  that  the  greater  part 

of  them  had  taken  articles  for  which  they  had  no  use  whatever Officers 

threatened,  cursed,  called  them  thieves,  made  appeals  to  their  manliness  and  state 
pride,  and  to  the  fact  that  they  were  among  those  battling  in  the  same  cause; 
but  all  in  vain;  stealing  had  become  a  recreation,  and  they  would  steal.  General 
Price  himself  strove  to  check  the  disorder  which  1  have  attempted  faintly  to  des 
cribe,  but  for  once  his  commands  were  powerless,  and  the  work  of  ruin  went  on. 
The  troops  encamped,  for  the  night,  south  of  us,  but  many  of  the  officers  re 
mained  in  town.  Among  those  that  1  best  remember  were  General  Rains,  for 
once  sober,  and  most  gentlemanly  in  his  manners;  Major  Savary,  who  shed  tears 
at  being  thus  made  "an  exile  from  home;  "  Churchill,  Clarke,  said  to  be  the  best 
artillerist  in  Price's  army  ;  Emmett  McDonald,  who  indeed  looked  and  talked  like 
the  brave  soldier  that  he  was;  and  Ben  McCulloch,  meditating  doubtless  upon 
the  dark  deeds;  that  the  morrow  would  bring. 

The  brutal  McCulloch,  the  next  day  wantonly  burnt  the  best  part 
of  the  town  ;  and,  in  his  vandalism,  consigned  the  colleges,  with  their 
fine  libraries,  to  the  flames. 


TIMES  OF  THE    REBELLION 

Mr.  Baxter  gives  us  another  picture,  the  entrance  of  the  union  ad 
vance,  in  the  pursuit.  As  they  welcomed  our  heroic  soldiers,  and  saw, 
once  more  our  beautiful  but  long  exiled  flag,  he  tells  us  how  their 
hearts  bounded  with  glorious  emotions ;  how  the  sweet  tears  of  pleas 
ure  started,  and  the  nerves  thrilled,  as  the  successive  waves  of  deli 
cious  sensation  struck  and  passed  over  these  vibrating,  human  chords 
of  the  immortal  soul. 

Another  day  passed,  one  of  strange  quiet;  one  army  had  swept  by  in  harried 
retreat,  the  other,  we  felt  assured  would  soon  appear  in  pursuit.  Most  of  the  men 
who  favored  the  southern  cause  had  left,  and  to  nearly  all  who  remained,  the  ap 
proach  of  the  union  army  meant  deliverance.  Night  caine,  and  southward  the 
camp-fires  of  the  armies  of  Price  and  McCulloch  could  be  seen,  while  to  the 
northern  sky  a  glow,  like  that  of  the  aurora  borealia,  was  given  by  those  of 
the  federal  soldiery.  With  the  next  dawn  came  the  report  of  the  advance  of  the 
men  of  the  north ;  the  heavy  pickets,  pressed  back  by  the  advancing  enemy,  rode 
slowly  by,  and  soon,  in  hot  haste,  came  a  scouting  party  who  had  been  watching 
the  movements  of  the  pursuing  foe.  In  answer  to  our  inquiries,  they  said  the 
"feds"  were  .rapidly  coming;  and,  indeed,  they  were  with  the  swiftness  and  fury 
of  a  storm.  The  last  of  the  rebel  pickets  were  but  a  few  hundred  yards  north 
of  my  residence,  watching  with  deep  interest  a  few  gleaming  points  of  steel  on 
the  wooded  hill  opposite;  soon  a  line  of  blue  wound  down  the  hill-side,  the  pick 
ets  turned  their  horses'  heads  southward ;  there  was  a  clatter  of  hoofs,  a  flashing 
sabers,  a  wild  and  Jierce  hurrah,  ringing  shots  from  revolvers,  men  fleeing  for 
life,  men  and  steeds  in  the  chase  both  seemingly  animated  by  the  same  spirit  of 
destruction;  in  a  word,  the  most  exciting  of  military  spectacles  ;  a  cavalry  charge 
had  been  made  past  my  door.  Within  a  few  moments  men  had  been  slain  and 
wounded;  prisoners  taken,  and  our  town  was  in  possession  of  the  advance  guard 
of  the  union  army. 

And  now  they  streamed  in  on  every  side;  the  whole  country  seemed  alive  with 
mounted  men.  A  loud  shout  was  heard  on  the  public  square;  we  turned  our  eyes 
in  that  direction,  and  a  splendid  banner,  made  when  the  union  sentiment  ran 
high,  but  which  for  months  had  been  concealed,  was  floating  from  the  flag-staff  on 
the  court-house,  and  we  were  once  more  under  the  stripes  and  stars.  Strange  that 
an  emblem  should  have  such  power  over  the  human  soul !  and  yet  the  first  sight  of 
the  ocean  or  the  down-rushing  flood  of  Niagara  did  not  awaken  such  emotions  as 
the  waving  folds  of  that  banner  of  the  free.  Carefully  had  it  been  concealed,  and 
faithfully  preserved  when  its  possession  would  have  been  deemed  a  high  crime  if 
discovered.  A  few  eyos  had  been  permitted  to  look  upon  it  in  secret  during  the 
dark  days;  the  tones  of  the  voice  were  low  when  it  was  mentioned  ;  on  one  occa 
sion  a  confederate  officer  had  only  a  mattress  between  him  and  that  flag ;  but 
now  it  was  flung  out  once  more  by  loyal  hands  to  the  free  air,  hailed  with  almost 
frantic  delight  by  loyal  voices,  stretched  to  its  utmost  tension  by  a  strong  breeze ; 
every  stripe  distinct,  every  star  visible;  the  old  flag,  the  joy  of  every  loyal  heart! 
Scorn  and  contumely  had  been  heaped  upon  it ;  to  mention  it,  save  in  condemna 
tion,  a  crime;  its  place  usurped  by  another  banner,  but  the  day  of  its  triumph 
had  come  at  last. 

Soon  the  main  body  of  the  troops,  under  General  Asboth,  rode  into  town. 
Their  appearance,  when  contrasted  with  that  of  the  legions  of  Price,  who  pre 
ceded  them,  was  magnificent;  and,  indeed,  apart  from  any  comparison,  they  were 
a  noble  body  of  men.  They  were  mostly  from  Iowa  and  Illinois;  under  a  chief 
who  had  seen  service  in  Europe,  and  who  looked  more  like  a  soldier  than  any  of 
the  hastily  improvised  generals  who  were  with  the  army  whose  retreat  we  had  just 
\vitnessed.  The  union  ladies  warmly  and  gladly  saluted  the  flag  which  was  borne 
nt  the  head  of  the  column,  and  my  wife  was  the  first,  from  the  balcony  of  our 
dwelling,  to  wave  and  shout  a  welcome.  An  officer  observing  her,  while  thus 
greeting  the  banner,  called  out,  u  Where  are  you  from?'1  "  Massachusetts"  was 
the  reply.  "  Ah,''  he  said,  "  I  thought  so  !  I  too  am  from  Massachusetts." 

This  force,  which  entered  Fayetteyille,  was  the  cavalry  of  Curtis, 


IN  MISSOURI.  601 

which,  after  a  brief  stay,  returned  north  to  the  main  body.  The 
rebel  army  being  largely  reinforced  south  of  the  town,  again  passed 
through  it,  a  few  days  later,  to  attack  Curtis,  when  occurred  the  Bat 
tle  of  Pea  Ridge,  which  we  thus  outline. 

The  5th  of  March  was  cold  and  blustering,  and  the  ground  became  whitened 
with  the  falling  snow,  when  intelligence  caine  to  the  headquarters  of  General 
Curtis,  near  Sugar  Creek,  that  the  enemy  were  approaching  to  give  battle.  The 
general  sent  orders  to  his  various  divisions  to  concentrate  at  Sugar  Creek  hollow. 
Sigel  tarried  at  Bentonville,  a  point  ten  miles  distant,  with  a  German  regiment  and 
battery,  until  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning,  when  he  was  attacked  by  a  large  ad 
vance  of  the  enemy.  Having  a  large  baggage  train  to  guard,  Sigel  retreated 
slowly  along  the  road.  He  fought  his  way,  most  gallantly,  until  within  three  or 
four  miles  of  the  main  body,  when  part  of  the  first  division  came  to  his  relief, 
opening  upon  the  enemy  with  artillery  and  infantry  and  checked  the  pursuit, 
which  closed  the  fight  for  the  day. 

At  eleven  o'clock  the  next  morning  the  rebels  attacked  the  right  of  the  union 
line.  The  fight  was  heavy  here  during  the  day  and  the  losses  severe.  General 
McCulloch,  commanding  the  rebel  forces,  fell  shot  through  the  heart.  The  next 
morning,  at  sunrise  the  battle  was  again  renewed.  Sigel  moved  steadily  forward, 
with  the  left,  and  driving  the  enemy  from  the  hills,  when  General  Curtis  ordered 
the  right,  under  General  E.  A.  Carr,  and  the  center,  under  General  Jefferson  C. 
Davis,  to  advance.  In  the  final  position,  thus  obtained,  the  rebels  were  inclosed 
in  a  segment  of  a  circle.  A  charge  of  infantry  was  then  made,  extending  through 
out  the  whole  line,  which  completely  routed  the  rebels,  and  they  fled  in  great 
confusion. 

The  total  union  loss  was  1301 ;  that  of  the  enemy  far  greater — among  these 
were  four  of  their  generals:  McCulloch,  Mclntosh,  Herbert,  and  Slack;  while 
our  highest  officer  killed  was  the  brave  Lieutenant-Colonel  Hendricks,  of  the  22d 
Indiana. 

In  his  official  report,  General  Curtis  said :  "  Illinois,  Indiana,  Iowa,  Ohio,  and 
Missouri  may  proudly  share  the  honor  of  victory  which  their  gallant  heroes  won, 
over  the  combined  forces  of  VanDorn,  Price,  and  McCulloch,  at  Pea  Ridge,  in  the 
Ozark  Mountains  of  Arkansas." 

A  vivid  description  of  the  flight  of  the  routed  army  is  given  in 
Pea  Ridge  and  Prairie  Grove,  from  which  the  following  is  extracted : 

The  living  tide,  which  had  swept  through  our  town  to  the  Boston  Mountains, 
began  to  flow  back.  VanDorn  had  arrived  to  take  the  command  of  all  the  forces 
in  that  region.  We  heard  the  salutes  which  welcomed  his  arrival,  and  about  the 
same  time  there  came  the  first  news  from  Fort  Donelson ;  but  how  different  from 
the  reality :  it  was  represented  as  an  unmitigated  disaster  to  the  union  cause  ; 
twenty  thousand  prisoners  had  been  taken,  and  the  confederate  cavalry  was  in  hot 
pursuit  of  the  remnant  of* the  fleeing  host.  Bulletins  to  this  effect  were  circulated 
through  the  camp,  and  all  felt  certain  that  a  similar  fate  soon  awaited  the  little 
army  of  General  Curtis,  then  encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  the  now  famous  field  of 
Pea  Ridge  ;  and,  though  much  has  been  said  concerning  this — one  of  the  most 
important  and  stoutly  contested  battles  of  the  war — yet  I  am  bold  to  say  that  the 
story  of  that  field  has  not  yet  been  told.  In  the  official  reports  of  General  Curtis 
and  his  division  commanders,  the  occurrences  of  the  three  eventful  days  are 
clearly  and  modestly  let  forth ;  but  neither  he  nor  they  were  aware  of  the  utter 
rout  of  the  enemy,  from  the  fact  that  they  had  no  large  body  of  cavalry  to  follow 
up  the  victory. 

General  Curtis  estimated  the  forces  he  met  and  vanquished  at  about  30,'OOQ — 
three  times  the  number  of  his  own  little  but  brave  band ;  but  the  southern  men 
themselves  claimed  a  much  larger  force :  by  most  it  was  placed  at  from  40,000  to 
45,000;  and  from  the  number  of  the  regiments,  nearly  all  of  them  full,  and  from 
the  appearance  of  the  troops,  and  the  time  it  took  them  to  pass,  1  think  40,000 
rather  inside  than  beyond  the  real  number.  In  Price's  army  were  the  divisions 
of  Rains,  Slack,  and  Frost.  McCulloch  had  a  large  army  before  the  retreat  from. 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Cross  Hollows,  and  many  newly-raised  regiments  were  said  to  have  joined  him  at 
Boston  Mountain;  and  to  these  must  be  added  the  Indian  brigade,  under  General 
Pike.  Most  of  these  troops  passed  through  our  town  on  the  3d  and  4th  of  March. 

The  quiet  which  reigned  after  the  army  had  passed  northward  was  soon  broken 
by  the  roar  of  artillery,  which  told  that  the  battle  had  begun ;  this  tiring  took  place 
near  Bentonville,  where  VanDorn,  in  his  report  of  the  battle,  says  that  he  found 
Sigel  posted  with  a  force  of  7000  strong.  The  truth  is  that  Sigel  was  there,  but 
with  not  quite  as  many  hundreds  as  he  was  reputed  to  have  thousands.  With  this 
small  yet  determined  band  he  kept  fighting  and  retreating;  and  the  severe  loss 
inflicted  upon  the  enemy  during  that  well-conducted  retreat,  was  well  calculated 
to  create  and  keep  up  the  impression  that  Sigel  had  7000  instead  of  but  600  men. 

This  falling  back,  in  the  face  of  an  overwhelming  force,  was  called  a  retreat  of 
all  the  federal  forces:  and  we  soon  got  news  that  the  invading  army  was  in  full 
flight  in  Missouri;  and  then  that  it  had  been  overtaken  and  surrounded.  At  this 
juncture  our  feelings  were  not  of  the  most  agreeable  character.  Our  news,  be  it 
remembered,  however,  was  from  the  southern  side  alone ;  we  knew  nothing  of  the 
splendid  strategy  of  Sigel,  the  truly  chivalrous  deeds  of  Asboth,  the  unflagging 
courage  and  endurance  of  Carr,  Davis,  and,  indeed,  of  every  man  in  those  terrible 
three  days,  for  every  man  there  did  his  duty.  How  cheering  to  us  wrould  have 
been  the  knowledge  of  the  calm  self-reliance  of  Curtis,  who,  though  surrounded, 
as  he  knew,  by  a  vastly-superior  foe,  abated  neither  heart  nor  hope ;  having  come 
to  fight,  not  to  surrender!  Thus  passed  Thursday  and  Friday.  On  Saturday  morn 
ing  the  news  was  not  so  favorable  for  the  exultant  expectants  of  a  triumph  before 
which  all  others  were  to  pale ;  the  contest  was  said  to  be  fearful,  the  slaughter,  on 
both  sides,  immense;  still  the  advantage  was  with  the  south.  Then  the  report 
came  that  a  carriage  was  coming  containing  a  wounded  officer;  and  one  of  those 
who  had  just  returned  from  th«-  battle-field  said :  "  It  is  true,  gentlemen,  that  a 
carriage  is  coming,  but  the  officer  in  it,  be  he  whom  he  may,  is  dead,  for  1  helped 
to  lift  him  into  it;  his  face  was  covered,  I  did  not  know  him,  but  that  he  is  dead 
I  know."  Soon  the  carriage  came  in  sight;  and  we  learned  that  it  contained  the 
body  of  the  famous  Ben  McCulloch. 

This  was  unexpected  and  startling;  matters  began  to  wear  a  serious  aspect; 
and,  just  after  nightfall,  hearing  a  wagon  from  the  direction  of  the  battle-ground 
passing  my  door,  I  went  out  to  make  some  inquiries,  and  found  that  it  contained 
the  body  of  General  James  Mclntosh,  who  fell  nearly  at  the  same  time  with 
McCulloch.  The  body  was  taken  into  the  house  of  an  acquaintance  of  mine  ;  I 
entered,  and  there  he  lay,  cold  and  stark,  just  as  he  was  taken  from  the  spot  where 
he  fell ;  a  military  overcoat  covering  his  person,  and  the  dead  forest  leaves  still 
clinging  to  it.  His  wound  had  not  been  examined ;  I  aided  in  opening  his  vest 
and  under-garments,  and  soon  found  that  the  ball  had  passed  through  his  body, 
near,  if  not  through  the  heart. 

Returning  home  from  the  sad  scene  I  heard  the  sound  of  a  horse's  feet  coming 
down  the  road  from  the  battle-field ;  soon  horse  and  rider  came  into  view,  both 
evidently  much  jaded.  1  hailed  him,  and  asked  the  news  from  the  fight;  he  re 
plied  by  calling  me  by  name,  and  I  soon  found  it  to  be  one  of  our  citizens,  we  1 
known  to  me,  an  officer  in  the  confederate  army,  but  just  before  the  breaking  out 
of  the  war  a  strong  union  man,  who,  like  many  others,  was  forced,  by  public  sen- 
ment,  into  the  army.  "  How  is  the  contest  going?"  said  I.  He  replied:  "We 
had  them  all  surrounded;  but  just  before  I  left  a  movement  was  made  by  our 
troops  to  let  them  get  away  if  they  wished  to  do  so.  Orders  were  given  to  our 
regiment  for  every  man  to  take  care  of  himself.  Our  friend  Wilson's  son,  a  lad 
of  fourteen,  had  his  leg  shot  off,  and  I  thought  T  would  come  and  let  the  father 
know  the  condition  of  the  son.  A  terrible  time  it  was,  I  tell  you  ;  their  men 
were  vastly  better  drilled  than  ours;  and  when  under  fire  they  moved  with  as 
much  precision  as  on  the  parade-ground,  but  our's  broke  ranks  often." 

A  few  officers  came  in  during  the  night,  and  a  confederate  surgeon,  when  I  met 
him  the  next  morning,  said  that  they  were  badly  beaten.  "  The  very  earth  trem 
bled,"  said  he,  "when  their  infantry  opened  fire  upon  us." 

About  ten  o'clock  on  Sunday  morning,  the  army,  which  a  few  days  "before  had 


IN  MISSOURI. 


603 


passed  my  house  so  exultant  and  confident  of  an  easy  and  complete  victory,  came 
back ;  but  it  was  an  army  no  longer. 

When  Price  went  by  a  quick  march  on  his  way  to  Boston  Mountain,  he  was 
only  falling  back  to  lay  a  trap  for  his  enemies;  but  now  the  army  was  a  confused 
mob,  not  a  regiment,  not  a  company  in  rank,  save  two  regiments  of  cavalry,  which, 
as  a  rear  guard,  passed  through  near  sun-down  ;  the  rest  were  a  rabble-rout,  not 
four  or  five  abreast,  but  the  whole  road,  about  fifty  feet  wide,  filled  with  men, 
every  one  seemingly  animated  with  the  same  desire — to  get  away.  Few,  very  few, 
had  guns,  knapsacks,  or  blankets ;  every  thing  calculated  to  impede  their  flight  had 
been  abandoned ;  many  were  hatless,  and  the  few  who  had  any  thing  to  carry  were 
those  who  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  pick  up  a  chicken,  goose  or  pig;  if  the 
latter,  it  was  hastily  divided  so  as  not  to  be  burdensome,  and  the  usual* formalities 
of  butchering  and  taking  of  the  bristles  were  dispensed  with.  Very  few  words 
were  spoken ;  few  of  them  had  taken  any  food  for  two  or  three  days ;  they  had  lost 
McCulloch,  Mclntosh,  Slack,  Reeves,  and  other  officers  of  note,  and,  in  a  word, 
they  were  thoroughly  dispirited.  And  thus,  for  hours,  the  human  tide  swept  by, 
H  broken,  drifting,  disorganized  mass,  not  an  officer,  that  I  could  see,  to  give  an 
order ;  and  had  there  been,  he  could  not  have  reduced  the  formless  mass  to  dis 
cipline  or  order.  Many  called  in,  with  piteous  stories  of  suffering  from  hunger, 
and  were  relieved,  as  far  as  our  means  would  permit;  but  these  soon  failed,  and 
all  we  could  furnish  was  pure  water.  Four  members  of  the  3d  Lousiana  stopped 
at  one  time  to  get  water,  and  one  of  them  looking  round,  said  :  u  This  is  the  largest 
number  of  our  regiment  that  I  have  seen  since  we  left  the  battle-field."  Of  an- 
other  I  inquired:  "What  has  become  of  the  3d  Louisiana?"  He  replied: 
"There  is  no  3d  Louisiana." 

An  old  friend  of  mine — John  Mays,  a  true  union  man — who  had  three  sons  in 
the  confederate  army,  as  I  am  fully  assured,  contrary  to  their  wishes  and  prin 
ciples,  when  he  heard  the  sounds  of  battle,  started  for  the  field  to  see  what  was 
the  fate  of  his  boys,  and  was  returning  with  one  of  them  when  I  asked  him, 
'•  How  went  the  day  ?  "  He  replied :  "  It  was  a  perfect  stampede ;  whole  regiments 
threw  down  their  arms  and  fled."  Indeed,  after  the  fall  of  McCulloch  and  Mcln 
tosh,  and  the  capture  of  Colonel  Hebert,  there  was  no  one  to  take  command  of 
that  portion  of  the  army;  the  necessary  result  was  the  hurried  and  disorderly 
flight  I  have  attempted  to  describe.  The  victors  had  no  cavalry  to  keep  up  the 
pursuit;  and,  indeed,  constant  watching  and  fighting  for  three  days  had  left  them 
in  such  a  condition  that  they  were  unable  to  reap  all  the  advantages  of  their  val 
or.  Still  it  was  a  most  decisive  victory;  much  of  the  routed  army  never  was  got 
together  again;  and  no  portion  of  it  made  a  stand,  but  only  to  be  again 
sorely  beaten,  until  it  had  traversed  the  state  from  north  to  south,  and  crossed  the 
Mississippi ;  escaping  Curtis  only  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  Rosecrans  and  Grant. 

In  a  few  days  scouting  parties  from  the  battle-field  came  to  our  town ;  several 
of  the  soldiers  came  to  my  house  ;  some  of  them  had  been  down  with  General 
Asboth,  and  knew  me,  and  of  course  were  friendly.  One  of  them  claimed  to 
have  killed  Ben  McCulloch.  Being  familiar  with  the  appearance  of  the  rebel 
chief,  I  was  curious  to  know  whether  he,  who  had  sent  the  bitterest  foe  to  union 
men  to  his  account,  was  really  before  me.  I  asked  him  to  describe  the  person  he 
had  killed,  and  he  described  McCulloch  with  as  much  precision  as  I  could  have 
done  myself;  every  peculiarity  of  his  dress,  his  white  hat,  black  velvet  or  velvet 
een  suit,  with  long  stockings  drawn  over  boots  and  pantaloons  up  tq  his  knees, 
were  all  mentioned  ;  and  as  there  was  probably  not  another  man  in  either  army 
dressed  like  the  Texan  chief,  I  felt  no  doubt  that  his  statement  was  correct.  He 
said  McCulloch  was  sitting  on  his  horse,  with  his  glass  to  his  eye,  when  he  dis 
covered  him  ;  he  took  deliberate  aim,  fired  and  he  fell.  Southern  men,  who  were 
near  him  when  he  was  killed,  state  that  he  was  observing  the  movements  of  the 
enemy  through  his  field  glass  when  he  received  the  fatal  shot;  thus  corroborating 
the  story  of  the  federal  sharp-shooter.  I  did  not  ask  him  his  name,  but  saw  after 
ward,  in  the  report  of  the  battle,  that  it  was.  Peter  Pelican. 

General  Halleck,  upon  succeeding  Fremont,  immediately  adopted 
stringent  measures  against  rebels  and  those  who,  sympathized  with 


604  TIMES  OF  THE   REBELLION 

them.  This  commanding  officer  was  directed  to  arrest  and  imprison 
all  persons  found  in  arms  against  the  government,  and  all  who,  in  any 
way,  aided  them.  Success  attended  his  plans.  The  campaign  of  Gen 
eral  Curtis,  in  the  south-west,  resulted  in  driving  the  rebels  out  of 
two  states  and  across  the  Mississippi;  and  the  expedition  against 
Island  No.  10,  under  General  Pope  and  Commodore  Foote,  was  one  of 
the  most  brilliant  operations  of  the  war,  as  the  most  splendid  results 
were  obtained  by  strategy  rather  than  fighting — all  the  advantages 
usually  attendant  on  a  bloody  and  decisive  victory,  without  loss 
of  life.  % 

ISLAND   NO.    TEN. 

Upon  the  evacuation  of  Columbus,  on  the  3d  of  March,  the  enemy  fell  back 
upon  and  fortified  Island  No.  Ten,  a  place  of  remarkable  strength,  situated  in  the 
Mississippi,  just  opposite  the  boundary  line  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  The 
general  course  of  the  river  is  south,  but* at  the  island  it  makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the 
north  for  several  miles,  and  then,  timing  south  in  a  semi-circle,  forms  a  tongue 
of  land,  opposite  the  northern  point  of  which,  on  the  Missouri  side,  is  New  Ma 
drid,  which  last  is  two  or  three  miles  below  the  island.  On  the  3d  of  March  the 
corps  of  Gen,  Pope,  which  had  been  disciplined  by  severe  service  in  Missouri,  ar 
rived  before  New  Madrid,  which  was  strongly  garrisoned.  He  took  possession  of 
.Point  Pleasant,  eight  miles  below  the  town,  with  a  body  of  troops,  and  planted 
sunken  batteries  and  rifle  pits,  so  that  the  enemy's  gunboats  could  not  pass  up 
the  river.  The  enemy  erected  batteries  on  the  east  side  the  of  stream,  and  in  con 
junction  with  six  gunboats,  in  vain  attempted  to  shell  Pope  from  his  position. 
New  Madrid  was  well  defended  by  redoubts  and  intrench uients,  and  the  land  be 
ing  low  the  gunboats  commanded  the  country  for  some  distance. 

Gen.  Pope  took  up  a  position  below  the  town,  cutting  off  supplies,  and  pushing 
forward  works  to  command  the  place.  On  the  13th  he  opened  tire  most  vigor 
ously,  disabling  several  of  the  gunboats.  In  the  night  a  severe  thunder  storm 
ensued.  Under  cover  of  the  darkness,  the  enemy  having  been  severely  handled, 
secretly  abandoned  their  works,  and  in  panic  rushed  aboard  of  their  gunboats  and 
transports. 

When  the  morning  of  the  14th  dawned,  their  departure  became  known.  Their 
flight  had  been  so  hasty,  that  they  left  their  dead  unburied,  their  suppers  un 
touched,  standing  on  their  tables,  candles  burning  in  their  tents  and  every  other 
evidence  of  a  disgraceful  panic.  Nothing  except  the  men  escaped,  and  they  only 
with  what  they  wore.  They  landed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  scattered 
in  the  wide  bottoms.  Immense  supplies  of  property,  even  the  officers'  private 
baggage,  all  their  artillery,  amounting  to  33  pieces,  thousands  of  stands  of  arms, 
tents  for  ten  thousand  men,  were  among  the  spoils.  Our  whole  loss  during  these 
operations  was  51  killed  and  wounded.  The  enemy's  loss  was  unknown;  beside 
his  dead  unburied,  more  than  one  hundred  new  graves  attested  that  he  had  suf 
fered  severely. 

The  investment  of  the  Island  was  begun  on  the  16th,  by  the  fleet  of  Commo 
dore  Foote,  from  above  it.  Although  a  continuous  bombardment  was  kept  up  dur 
ing  the  seige,  little  harm  was  thus  done  to  the  enemy.  When  Gen.  Pope  got  pos 
session  of  New  Madrid  his  troops  lined  the  Missouri  bank,  below  the  Island,  and 
their  batteries  were  vigorously  replied  to  by  those  of  the  enemy  on  the  Tennessee 
shore,  and  the  Island.  There  were,  however,  no  means  for  Gen.  Pope  to  cross 
the  river  while  the  enemy's  gunboats  occupied  below  the  Island,  and  all  the  union 
boats  were  above  it  It  was  necessary  to  cross  to  successfully  assail  the  enemy's 
batteries  there.  Gen.  Schuyler  Hamilton  suggested  a  plan,  which  was  adopted, 
to  cut  a  canal,  on  the  Missouri  side,  from  above  the  Island  to  New  Madrid  below, 
and  through  it  bring  steamboats  to  enable  them  to  transport  their  troops  across 
the  river  The  cutting  of  the  canal  was  performed  by  Col.  Bissel  and  his  regi 
ment  of  engineers,  and  was  a  worlc  of  great  difficulty.  The  idea  of  cutting  a 
canal  large  enough  for  good  sized  steamboats,  for  four  miles,  and  then  to  saw  off. 


IN  MISSOURI.  605 

four  feet  under  water,  at  least  one  thousand  trees,  ranging  from  six  inches  to 
three  feet  in  diameter,  beside  removing  unnumbered  snags  for  a  distance  of  eight 
miles,  was  something  novel  in  warfare.  Napoleon's  drawing  his  cannon  over  the 
icy.  crags  of  the  Alps,  was  nothing  in  comparison.  These  trees  were  cut  off  by 
hand  by  means  of  long  saws  worked  by  twenty  men.  After  digging  the  canal 
the  water  canre  through  with  such  a  current  that  the  boats  had  to  be  dropped  by 
lines  over  nearly  ihe  whole  distance  of  twelve  miles.  For  nineteen  days  the  work 
was  prosecuted  with  untiring  energy  and  determination,  under  exposures  and  pri 
vations  very  unusual,  even  in  the  history  of  warfare.  It  was  completed  on  the 
4th  of  April,  and  will  long  remain  a  monument  of  enterprise  and  skill. 

On  the  5th  of  April  the  steamers  and  barges  were  brought  near  to  the  mouth  of  the 
bayou  which  discharges  into  the  Mississippi  at  New  Madrid,  but  were  kept  care 
fully  out  of  sight  from  the  river,  while  our  floating  batteries  were  being  completed. 
The  enemy,  as  was  afterward  learned,  had  received  positive  advices  of  the  con 
struction  of  the  canal,  but  were  unable  to  believe  that  such  a  work  was  practica 
ble.  The  first  assurance  they  had  of  its  completion,  was  the  appearance  of  the 
four  steamers  loaded  with  troops,  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  April,  the  day  of 
the  defeat  and  surrender  of  the  rebels. 

In  the  meanwhile  Commodore  Foote,  above  the  Island,  had  accomplished  some 
important  points.  The  first  of  those  was  the  spiking  of  a  battery /it  the  head  of  the 
Island,  a  daring  and  most  gallant  act,  which  was  performed  on  the  night  of  the 
1st  of  April  by  Col.  Roberts,  of  the  42d  Illinois.  Each  gunboat  furnished  a  yawl 
manned  by  six  oarsmen.  Selecting  forty  men  picked  from  Company  A,  each 
armed  with  a  revolver,  they  started  on  their  perilous  errand,  a/id  just  as  a  severe 
thunder  storm  was  approaching. 

With  muffled  oars  the  boats  advanced  cautiously  along  the  edge  of  the  bank. 
Owing  to  the  violence  of  the  storm  and  darkness,  they  got  within  a  few  rods  of 
the  battery,  when  a  blinding  flash  of  lightning  glared  across  the  water,  revealing 
to  the  rebel  sentinels  dark  objects  approaching.  The  next  instant  impenetrable 
darkness  closed  in.  The  sentinels  fired  wildly,  and  then  fled  in  terror.  Our  boats 
made  no  reply.  In  two  or  three  minutes  they  touched  the  slope  of  the  earthworks. 
The  men  sprang  over  the  parapet,  sledges  and  files  were  busy,  and  with  a  few 
vigorous  strokes  all  the  guns  were  spiked.  They  were  six  in  number,  one  of  them 
a  splendid  nine  inch  pivot  gun,  received  the  personal  attention  of  Col.  Robert's 
brawny  arm.  In  an  inconceivably  short  time  the  boats  were  on  their  way  back, 
and  all  arrived  safely  and  exultant. 

On  the  night  of  the  4th,  the  gunboat  Carondolet,  and  on  that  of  the  6th,  the 
Pittsburg  succeeded  in  running  past  the  Island.  On  the  7th,  these  boats  attacked 
and  silenced  the  batteries  on  the  Tennessee  shore,  at  the  point  destined  for  cross 
ing.  Meanwhile  the  division  of  Gen.  Paine  embarked  in  the  boats  that  had  come 
through  the  bayou,  and  was  followed  by  the  other  corps  over  the  river,  where 
they  attacked  the  enemy  and  drove  them  to  the  impassable  swamps  in  their  rear, 
where  they  were  compelled  to  surrender.  While  these  events  transpired,  the 
Island  surrendered  to  Commodore  Foote ;  but  most  of  the  troops  had  before  aban 
doned  it.  About  7000  prisoners  were  captured  in  all,  with  123  pieces  of  heavy 
artillery,  30  field  guns,  beside  an  immense  amount  of  munitions,  and  seven  steam 
boats.  It  was  a  great  success,  reflecting  lasting  credit  to  the  general  in  command. 

An  officer  of  the  39th  Ohio,  present,  gives  us  an  amusing  descrip 
tion  of  the  scenes  of  the  flight  and  surrender.  He  first  alludes  to  the 
famous  canal. 

All  this  done,  and  forthwith,  to  the  astonished  eyes  of  rebels,  came  slowly 
steaming  out  of  the  woods  four  Jin  e  steamers,  able  to  carry  easily  three  thousand 
men  !  This  last  was  the  unkindest  cut  of  all.  They  felt  sore  that  General  Pope 
should  have  out-generaled  them  out  of  New  Madrid,  but  the  idea,  so  sacriligious 
in  its  character,  of  bringing,  in  opposition  to  all  the  laws  of  nature,  u  steamboats 
overland"  was  too  much. 

Our  troops  landed  at  twelve,  yesterday,  and  commenced  the  pursuit — down 
across  the  Kentucky  line  into  the  swamps  of  Tennessee.  Now  the  rebels  are 


606  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

long-winded  and  run  well,  if  they  do  not  fight.  This  fact  our  boys  can  testifv  to. 
Here  they  went — Tennessee,  Arkansas,  Mississippi,  Alabama.  Louisiana — puffinir, 
blowing  and  swearing  at  the  "  unchivalrous"  treatment — as  Ohio,  Illinois,  Indiana 
and  Iowa  stepped  on  their  heels,  and  occasionally  pulled  at  the  coat  tails  that 
stuck  out  so  invitingly.  Once  in  a  while  they  would  get  mad  and  shoot,  and  have 
the  compliment  returned — but  it  was  the  old  song,  '•  nobody  hurt."  When  the 
poor  fellows  found  our  battery  planted  below,  and  the  two  gunboats,  with  the 
stars  and  stripes  ahead  of  them,  and  their  half  dozen  cowardly  gunboats,  taken 
good  care  to  leave  them,  they  appeared  to  resign  themselves  to  their  fate.  They 
sat  down  on  logs,  crawled  into  tree  tops,  dodged  into  houses,  and  went  promiscu 
ously  loose.  Guns  and  cartridge  boxes  were  thrown  away — clothing  and  blankets, 
ammunition,  lumber  of  all  kinds,  from  the  favorite  eighteen  inch  tooth-pick  to  a 
thirty-two  pounder,  lay  along  their  line  of  march — even  the  march  of  the  chivalry, 
one  of  whom  "  at  any  time  whips  five  Yankees."  But  one  division  of  our  little 
army  reach  the  enemy,  until  they  were  all  made  prisoners. 

Gen.  McCall  was  first  in  command,  and  had  formally  surrendered  his  force.  He 
marched  it  in  about  nine  at  night.  I  almost  felt  sorry,  the  poor  fellows  looked  so 
chop  fallen.  Gen.  Pope  had  just  two  regiments  to  receive  them,  while  the  force 
surrendered  was  seven  regiments  from  Tennessee,  Arkansas,  Mississippi,  Alabama 
and  Louisiana.  , 

It  was  nothing  strange  to  see  half  a  dozen  of  our  soldiers  bringing  in  fifty 
armed  men.  Now,  it  may  seem  strange,  but  it  is  true.  I  never  yet  saw  men  so 
completely  humiliated.  Some  of  their  officers  were  a«  dashing  and  bloviating  as 
ever.  One  says,  "well,  I  have  been  fighting  all  my  life,  but  its  over  with  me  novr. 
I  am  a  prisoner,  but  gentlemen,  you  can  not  subdue  the  South — just  as  sure  as 
you  live  in  the  next  great  battle  we  will  whale  you  to  death.  You  can't  whip  the 
South" 

Some  beautiful  farms,  in  fine  cultivation,  rise  up  out  of  the  marshes  here,  very 
productive.  But  such  a  pale,  cadaverous  people  are  the  inhabitants,  that  one 
could  almost  be  persuaded  that  they  are  a  mixed  race.  Of  this  "  poor  white  trash," 
there  is  a  large  portion  in  the  Southern  army.  Their  white  masters  have  made 
them,  believe,  in  their  ignorance,  that  we  are  a  set  of  demons.  One  poor  woman, 
where  the  39th  boys  arrested  a  dozen  rebels  to-day,  raised  her  voice  in  prayer  and 
fervently  blessed  God  that  Major  Noyes  did  not  have  her  and  her  children  all 
murdered  at  once.  She  must  have  confidently  expected  that  we  would  adorn  our 
selves  with  the  scalps  of  her  little  white  headed  urchins.  One  whole  family  floated 
down  on  a  raft  the  other  day — man,  woman  and  tow-headed  urchins,  all  were 
towed  a  shore  by  one  of  our  boats.  The  good  lady  was  a  voluble  talker,  and  told 
us  all  her  wrongs.  She  says.  "I  has  jist  got  this  one  dress  and  no  skeerts.  I 
wears  it  till  its  slick  and  dirty  and  has  to  go  to  bed  till  its  washed."  I  believed  all 
the  story  but  the  last  part.  I  should  like  to  take  a  few  such  families  home  with 
me,  on  exhibition,  to  show  the  beautiful  workings  of  the  system  of  slavery  upon 
the  laboring  white  man. 

After  Gen.  Halleck  was  appointed  commander-in-chief  of  the  forces 
of  the  United  States,  Gen.  Curtis  succeeded  him  in  the  Department 
of  the  South-West,  and  Gen.  Schofield  assumed  command  of  the  army 
of  the  frontier,  the  operations  of  which  were  mainly  confined  to 
South-Western  Missouri. 

The  next  matter  of  moment  to  the  people  of  Missouri,  after  the 
surrender  of  Island  No.  10,  was  the  battle  of  Prairie  Grove,  December 
7,  1862,  over  the  state  line,  near  Fayetteville,  Arkansas.  This  was 
fought  just  nine  months  after  the  battle  of  Pea  Ridge,  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  same  spot,  and  like  that  also  a  signal  union  victory.  It 
is  described  on  page  541. 

Early  next  year  the  rebel  Marmaduke  made  two  unsuccessful  raids 
into  Missouri.  On  the  8th  of  January,  1863,  he  attacked  Springfield 
with  6000  troops,  and  was  beaten  off  with  severe  loss,  by  the  union 


IN  MISSOURI.  607 

forces  under  Gen.  E.  B.  Brown.  Being  foiled  in  this  attempt,  Mar- 
maduke  moved  his  whole  force  northward,  when  he  was  again  de 
feated  by  a  greatly  inferior  force  at  Hartsville.  Gen.  Fitz  Henry 
Warren  having  learned  of  the  approach  of  the  enemy  toward  Spring 
field,  ordered  Col.  Merrill,  of  the  21st  Iowa,  to  make  a  forced  march 
with  700  men  to  the  relief  of  that  place.  These  troops  were  the  21st 
Iowa,  99th  Illinois  infantry,  detachments  of  the  3d  Iowa  and  3d  Mis 
souri  cavalry,  and  a  section  of  artillery  under  Lieut.  Waldsmidt.  At 
Hartsville  they  met  the  enemy,  where  the  action  occurred,  and  it  is 
called  the  Hartsville  fight ;  but  it  should  be  termed  the  "  battle  of  the 
Wagons"  for  wagons  contributed  in  a  large  measure  to  the  vic 
tory.  Gen.  Warren,  for  greater  speed,  had  dispatched  all  the  infan 
try  in  wagons.  The  presence  of  such  an  immense  train,  led  Marma- 
duke  to  believe  that  the  union  force  was  correspondingly  large.  Hence 
his  excessive  caution  led  to  his  defeat,  by  one  eighth  of  his  own  num 
ber.  The  details  of  this  remarkable  victory  are  thus  given  by  Warren : 

Our  artillery  opened  fire  at  eleven  o'clock  The  position  of  our  troops  was : 
one  thousand  thrown  out  three  and  a  half  miles  on  the  Houston  road ;  one  thou 
sand  held  the  town  approach  from  Springfield;  one  thousand  rested  on  the  Gas 
conade,  south  of  town,  covered  by  a  high  bluff;  while  twenty-five  hundred  to  three 
thousand  men  were  in  the  open  field  in  front  of  our  line,  and  occupying  the  court 
house,  and  other  buildings  in  the  town.  Their  artillery  (five  pieces)  was  in  bat 
tery  on  a  high  bluff  east  of  town,  and  to  occupy  it,  they  used  a  road  cut  by  my 
order  for  the  same  purpose  during  my  former  occupancy  of  Hartsville.  The 
officers  in  command  with  Generals  Marmaduke  and  McDonald  were  Colonels 
Porter,  Thompson,  Burbridge,  Shelby,  Henkle,  Jeffrey  and  Campbell.  The  battle 
opened,  after  the  fire  of  artillery,  by  a  charge  of  Jeffrey's  cavalry  (seven  hundred) 
on  our  whole  line.  The  infantry,  lying  flat,  held  themselves  with  great  coolness 
until  the  line  was  in  easy  range,  when  they  fired  with  great  accuracy,  and  threw 
the  whole  force  into  utter  confusion.  From  this  time  until  half  past  four  the  firing 
was  incessant,  but  smaller  bodies  of  men  were  brought  out,  and  although  at  times 
both  flanks  and  the  center  were  heavily  press,  no  large  column  moved  up.  Our 
men  held  their  cover  and  did  fine  execution,  while  the  artillery  shelled  the  enemy 
from  the  court  and  other  houses.  At  this  time  (3  o'clock),  had  we  a  reserve  of  five 
hundred  men,  we  could  have  broken  their  line,  and  compelled  their  retreat  in  dis 
order,  but  every  man  was  required  to  hold  our  only  avenue  of  retreat  on  the  Leb 
anon  road,  where  our  communication  was  constantly  threatened.  The  enemy 
commenced  falling  back — as  I  am  informed  by  Lieut.  Brown,  of  the  3d  Iowa  cav 
alry,  taken  prisoner,  while  reconnoitering  at  Wood's  Fork,  during  the  first  fight — 
at  three  o'clock,  and  the  retreat  became  general  at  twilight.  In  the  meantime 
our  artillery  ammunition  being  nearly  spent,  Colonel  Merrill,  ignorant  of  their 
movements,  ordered  the  detachments  to  fall  back  on  the  Lebanon  road,  which 
they  did  in  perfect  order,  with  their  whole  transportation,  losing  not  even  a  mus 
ket  or  cartridge  box.  Our  loss,  as  by  statements  appended  herewith,  is  seven  killed 
and  sixty-four  wounded,  five  prisoners  and  two  missing.  Theirs  is  large  in  men 
and  officers.  From  subsequent  details,  I  am  satisfied  it  will  exceed  three  hundred 
killed  and  wounded,  besides  two  lieutenants  and  twenty-seven  privates  prisoners. 
Among  the  killed  (.whose  bodies  were  recognized  at  Hartsville)  are  Brigadier 
General  Emmet  McDonald,  Cols.  Thompson  and  Hinkle,  and  Major  Rubley.  At 
the  mouth  of  Indian  creek,  they  paroled  and  released  Lieut.  Brown,  and  the  other 
prisoners.  Gen.  Marmaduke,  several  times  on  the  march,  expressed  his  wonder 
at  the  bravery  of  our  troops,  repeating,  "  Why,  Lieutenant,  your  boys  fought  like 
devils.'1 

I  can  not  sufficiently  express  my  admiration  of  their  conduct.  The  21st  Iowa 
and  99th  Illinois  were  never  before  under  fire,  yet  not  a  single  man  or  officer 
flinched.  Nothing  could  have  been  finer  than  their  steadiness  and  discipline. 


608  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION. 

The  3d  Iowa  and  3d  Missouri  cavalry  were  equally  cool  and  determined ;  hut  they 
have  before  seen  dangerous  service. 

Capt.  Black,  commanding  the  3d  Missouri  cavalry,  made  for  himself  a  most  en 
viable  reputation;  thirteen  shot  holes  in  his  coat  sufficiently  indicated  where  he 
was — in  the  hottest  of  the  fire.  The  artillery  saved  the  battle.  Lieut.  Wald- 
smidt's  gunnery  was  superb,  and  his  coolness  astonishing  The  enemy's  Parrott 
gun  got  his  range  and  fired  with  great  precision,  compelling  him  to  change  the 
position  of  his  piece  constantly. 

The  often  defeated,  but  pertinacious  Marmaduke,  in  the  succeed 
ing  April  made  an  assault  upon  Cape  Girardeau  and  was  gallantly 
repelled  by  Gen.  McNeil.  No  large  body  of  rebel  troops  again  in 
vaded  Missouri  until  the  spring  of  1864,  when  Eosecrans  was  military 
commander  of  the  state.  Then  occurred  Price's  last  campaign.  Its 
events  have  thus  been  outlined. 

Price  chose  a  time  when  we  were  poorly  prepared  to  meet  him,  Rosecrans  not 
having  troops  enough  at  command  to  stop  him  until  a  large  part  of  the  state  had 
been  traversed  and  ravaged.  Price,  having  crossed  the  Arkansas,  reorganized 
his  troops  at  Batesville.  There  Shelby  joined  him,  leaving  Steele,  whom  he  had 
hitherto  been  threatening,  as  a  cover  to  Price's  advance.  At  once  our  troops  be 
gan  to  callect.  Steele  rapidly  followed  Price  from  Arkansas  with  a  part  of  his 
troops,  reinforced  at  Duval's  Bluff  by  Mower's  infantry  division  and  Winslow's 
cavalry,  from  Washburne's  command,  which  the  latter  sent  across  from  Memphis. 
A.  J.  Smith,  who  was  going  to  join  Sherman,  crossed  to  Brownsville,  Ark.,  and 
thence,  by  a  long  march  of  nineteen  days  and  312  miles,  on  short  rations,  reached 
Cape  Girardeau,  Mo.  Nine  days  on  transports  carried  him  thence  to  .Jeffer 
son  City. 

No  sooner  did  Price  commence  his  march  from  Batesville,  than  it  was  evident 
that  Pilot  Knob,  Rolla,  Springfield,  and  Jefferson  City,  (all  important  points), 
would  be  directly  aimed  at.  Should  these  be  carried  St.  Louis  would  be  in  dan 
ger. 

Price,  with  15,000  men,  advanced,  without  opposition,  to  Pilot  Knob,  which  was 
partially  fortified  and  garrisoned  with  less  than  1000  men,  under  General  Hugh 
Ewing.  On  the  morning  of  the  26th  the  attack  on  the  town  commenced,  and,  for 
several  hours,  the  battle  raged  fiercely  outside  the  works.  The  fighting  continued 
for  two  days.  Ewing  finally  retired  to  the  fortifications  and  defended  them  most 
pertinaciously.  The  rebels  finding  that  the  works  could  not  be  carried  by  assault, 
placed  their  artillery  upon  a  commanding  hill,  which  at  once  rendered  Ewing's 
position  untenable.  At  three  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  28th,  Ewing,  with  his 
little  band,  evacuated  the  fort,  taking  the  road  towards  Harrison,  on  the  south 
west  branch  of  the  Pacific  Railroad.  Although  the  enemy  had  troops  on  all  sides 
of  the  town,  it  was  some  time  before  they  learned  of  his  retreat.  Pursuit  was 
immediately  commenced,  and  for  two  or  three  days  the  federals  were  sorely 
pressed  and  compelled  to  fight  at  every  step.  At  Harrison,  Ewing  was  reinforced 
by  a  small  force  of  cavalry,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  Rolla  in  safety.  The  reb 
els  lost  500  men  in  the  attack  and  retreat;  and  Ewing  not  over  200. 

Price  now  aimed  at  Jefferson  City,  crossing  the  Osage.  Here  our  troops  had 
been  concentrated,  under  General  Fisk,  from  Rolla,  Springfield,  and  elsewhere. 
After  some  skirmishing  at  Jefferson  City,  Price  retired  to  Booneville.  Our  forces 
remained  quiet,  and  without  pursuit,  until  Pleasantson  came  up,  when  the  latter 
followed  Price  to  Booneville,  and  harassed  his  rear  with  Sanborn's  troops.  Mean 
while  Price  had  captured  Harding's  new  regiment  at  Glasgow,  on  its  way  to  Jef 
ferson  City.  Most  of  our  cavalry  was  now  concentrated  at  the  Black  Water, 
where  Winslow,  from  Washburn's  command,  joined  it.  On  the  17th,  Pleasantson 
moved  from  Sedalia  in  pursuit  of  Price,  whom  he  struck  at  the  Little  Blue  on  the 
22d,  and  drove  thence  to  the  Big  Blue.  Here  Price  forced  Blunt  to  retire,  and 
awaited  Pleasantson's  attack. 

On  the  following  day,  the  23d,  a  severe  battle  was  fought  near  Westport.  It 
seems  to  have  been  a  singular  affair.  Curtis  was  first  driven  from  Westport,  by 


IN  MISSOURI.  609 

the  enemy  under  Shelby,  who  was  in  turn  attacked  and  defeated  by  Pleasantson. 
The  enemy  then  turned  south,  on  the  Fort  .Scott  road,  and  henceforward  occupied 
himself  only  to  get  away  with  the  spoils  of  his  campaign.  Pleasantson  and  Cur 
tis,  having  joined  forces,  briskly  pursued,  and  at  length  reached  the  enemy  on  the 
25th.  Under  cover  of  a  dense  fog,  Pleasantson  attacked  and  routed  him,  cap 
turing  camp  equipage,  one  cannon,  twenty  wagons  lull  of  plunder,  and  several 
hundred  head  of  cattle.  The  enemy  retreated,  and  at  length  secured  a  better 
position  across  Mine  Creek,  which  he  guarded  with  a  full  battery. 

Marmaduke  and  Fagan's  entire  divisions  were  joined  in  line  of  battle,  supported 
by  seven  pieces  of  artillery.  The  first  brigade,  under  Colonel  Philips,  and  the 
fourth,  under  Lieutenant-Colonel  Benteen,  soon  arrived  upon  the  ground,  and 
formed  their  line  of  battle;  and  this  little  force  of  cavalry,  scarcely  3000  men, 
on  the  order  being  given  to  charge,  dashed  against  more  than  three  times  their 
number.  Across  the  prairie  they  went,  filling  the  air  with  their  enthusiastic  yells, 
and  carrying  consternation  and  death  to  the  rebel  ranks.  A  hand  to  hand  saber- 
fight  ensued,  which,  however,  was  very  brief,  as  the  enemy  broke  and  fled  in  all 
directions. 

The  results  of  this  charge  were :  seven  pieces  of  artillery,  two  battle-flags,  Gen 
erals  Marmaduke  and  Cabell,  five  colonels,  and  about  700  prisoners. 

Once  more,  at  Marias  des  Cygnes,  the  enemy  attempted  a  stand,  but  was  forced 
to  retreat,  destroying  a  long  train  of  wagons  and  some  ammunition,  to  prevent  its 
recapture. 

Again,  on  the  2Sth,  Price  was  overtaken  at  Newtonia,  and  defeated  with  a  re 
ported  loss  of  250  men.  More  wagons  were  here  destroyed. 

Last  of  all,  at  Fayetteville,  Ark.,  his  rear-guard  was  again  harassed,  and  one 
more  skirmish  ensued  of  a  similar  character  with  the  preceding. 

REBEL    ATROCITIES. 

In  addition  to  the  devastation  of  regular  warfare,  Missouri  suffered 
more,  perhaps,  from  guerrilla  bands,  than  any  other  state.  Many  of 
these  bandit  chiefs  were  harbored  and  protected  by  disloyal  citizens. 
The  crimes  of  these  men  were  such  as  would  have  been  deemed  im 
possible  a  few  years  since ;  but  now  no  pen  can  exaggerate  their  bar 
barities.  When  the  rebel  armies  were  driven  out  of  Missouri,  most  of 
these  plundering  bands  left  the  northern  and  interior  portions  of  the 
state,  and  confined  their  foul  deeds  mainly  to  the  south-west.  Of 
their  deeds  in  that  region,  Mr.  Baxter,  in  his  work  already  quoted, 
gives  us  these  facts  as  coming  within  his  knowledge : 

The  leaders  of  these  bands,  though  in  some  instances  men  of  ability,  were 
mostly  intemperate,  and  when  under  the  influence  of  drink  perpetrated  crimes, 
which  we  fain  would  hope  they  would  have  shrank  from  in  their  sober  moments. 
On  one  occasion,  about  the  last  of  .June,  the  bands  of  Coffee,  Rains,  and  some 
others  came  into  our  town,  bringing  as  prisoners  several  men  whom  they  had 
taken  from  their  homes  while  endeavoring  to  secure  their  crops.  The  men  were 
accused  of  no  crime,  and  were  engaged  in  their  usual  peaceful  labors  when  ar 
rested.  A  few  days  after  they  were  brought  in,  Coffee,  who  was  seldom  sober, 
and  some  of  the  other  officers,  began  to  talk  about  shooting  those  prisoners,  in 
retaliation  for  some  men  they  had  lost  in  an  engagement  with  some  federal  cavalry 
a  few  days  before.  They  mutually  excited  each  other  while  in  their  cups,  and 
even  in  the  hearing  of  some  citizens  spoke  of  shooting  their  prisoners;  their 
friends  regarded  their  threats  as  due  more  to  the  liquor  they  had  taken  than  any 
serious  intention  to  injure  innocent  men;  but  no,  the  drunken  wretches  were  in 
earnest,  and  before  the  dawn  of  another  morning  they  had  executed  their  murder 
ous  purpose. 

About  midnight,  without  the  least  form  of  trial  or  intimation  of  the  fate  that 
awaited  them,  the  prisoners,  four  in  number,  were  marched  southward  under  a 
strong  e;uard.  About  a  mile  from  the  town  they  turned  into  a  dim  and  unfre 
quented  road;  and  when  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  main  road  were 
39 


610  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

halted.  On  the  lower  side  of  the  road  was  a  comparatively  clear  spot,  the  under 
growth  having  been  cleared  away;  into  that  space  they  were  ordered;  the  word 
was  pven ;  the  report  of  fifteen  or  twenty  guns  was  heard ;  they  all  fell,  and 
their  murderers  returned  and  left  them  just  as  they  lay.  The  firing  was  heard  in 
town,  but  the  cause  of  it  was  known  only  to  the  drunken  and  brutal  Coffee  and 
his  companions,  by  whose  order  this  deed,  black  as  the  hour  at  which  it  took 
place,  was  done. 

Only  three  of  the  poor  wretches,  however,  were  dead,  the  other  was  shot 
through  the  body  and  fell;  and  after  the  departure  of  the  executioners  he 
crawled  through  the  bushes  and  over  the  rocks,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  to  the 
nearest  house.  His  wounds  were  of  a  horrible  character,  and  no  expectation 
was  entertained  that  he  could  live  more  than  a  few  hours.  In  this  condition, 
with  death,  as  he  felt  assured,  close  at  hand,  he  told  his  sad  story :  he  said  that  he 
and  his  companions  had  never  had  arms  in  their  hands  on  either  side;  that  they 
were  taken  prisoners  at  home  while  at  work;  that  they  knew  of  no  reason  lor 
their  arrest,  but,  without  warning  and  without  crime,  had  been  torn  from  their 
families;  they  had  not  been  tried,  and  only  knew  their  fate  when  brought  to  the 
place  of  the  foul  murder.  He  gave  his  name  and  that  of  his  fellow-prisoners, 
and  desired  that  their  families  might  be  informed  of  their  fate.  A  few  hours 
more  would,  in  all  probability,  have  brought  an  end  to  his  sufferings;  but  the  next 
day  the  news  got  out  that  one  of  the  victims  was  still  alive ;  some  of  the  band  rode 
out  to  see  him,  and  one  of  them  gave  him  some  drug  which  soon  resulted  in  a 
Bleep  from  which  he  never  woke  again.  The  shooting  at  midnight  was  doubtless 
consummated  by  deliberate  poisoning  in  open  day. 

The  bodies  of  the  other  three  were  found,  weltering  in  their  blood,  by  some  of 
the  neighbors  the  next  morning,  whose  fears  and  suspicions  had  been  aroused  by 
the  firing  in  such  an  unfrequented  place  at  an  hour  so  unusual,  and  who  imme 
diately  set  about  giving  them  a  burial,  hasty  it  is  true,  but  decent  as  circumstances 
would  permit. 

They  were  proceeding  in  their  pious  task,  preparing  a  grave  large  and  deep 
enough  for  three;  but  before  the  task  was  half  accomplished,  the  murderers  of 
the  previous  night  came  upon  them,  made  them  throw  the  bodies  into  the  half- 
dug  grave,  and  would  not  permit  them  to  hide,  with  earth,  the  corpses  of  the  poor 
victims  from  the  light  of  day  and  the  reach  of  dogs  and  vultures.  One  of  the 
burial  party,  however,  an  old  man,  and  a  union  man,  after  their  departure,  came 
back  and  built  a  wall  of  loose  stones  around  the  place  of  the  dead,  and  then  pro 
tected  it  with  brush  that  the  bodies  might  rest  unmolested  by  either  brute  or  foul 
bird. 

Noble  old  man !  hard  didst  thou  toil  in  thy  labor  of  love  in  the  heat  of  that 
summer  day;  no  human  eye  saw  thy  sweat  and  toil,  or  knew  the  thoughts  of  thy 
heart  as  thou  didst  labor  at  the  grave  of  the  murdered  ones;  but  the  honest  and 
noble  purpose  of  thy  heart,  and  the  pious  labor  of  thy  hands,  were  not  unnoted 
of  God;  and  the  little  mound  thou  didst  raise  over  these  strangers  in  that  solitude 
will  seem,  to  thy  fellows,  like  a  mountain-peak  raising  thee  nearer  to  heaven  than 
thou  ever  didst  stand  before. 

Another  murder,  darker,  and  more  unprovoked,  if  possible,  than  the  foul  mid 
night  deed  just  narrated,  took  place  a  few  miles  from  town;  and,  as  the  subject 
of  it  was  well  known  for  miles  around,  it  struck  a  strange  and  undefinable  terror 
into  nearly  every  household;  for,  if  such  persons  as  the  victim  in  this  instance 
were  not  safe,  there  were  none  who  could  feel  secure. 

He  was  a  man  by  the  name  of  Neal,  a  leading  member  of  the  Methodist 
Church,  of  simple  manners  and  a  pure  life,  well  and  widely  known,  and  univer 
sally  regarded  as  a  good  man.  He  was  a  union  man,  as  nearly  all  of  his  type  of 
character  were,  and  yet  he  was  not  offensively  so;  he  did  not  boast  of  his  attach 
ment  to  the  old  government,  nor  did  he  speak  harshly  or  bitterly  of  his  neighbors 
who  favored  the  rebellion.  He  was  too  old  and  of  too  pacific  a  spirit  to  take  up 
arms,  and  was  ready,  at  all  times,  to  relieve  the  wants  of  the  sick  and  suffering 
without  reference  to  their  position  on  the  great  questions  of  the  day. 

No  intemperate  language,  no  unfriendly  act  was  charged  against  him ;  his  only 


IN  MISSOURI. 

crime,  he  had  never  wavered  in  his  attachment  to  the  government,  he  never  had 
approved  of  the  mad  act  of  secession  ;  yet  yielding  to  the  violence  of  a  storm  tliat 
he  was  powerless  to  resist,  he  retained  his  principles  in  a  day  of  great  defection, 
and  for  this,  at  last,  be  became  one  of  the  noble  army  of  martyrs  for  the  union, 
whose  graves  are  to  be  found  all  over  the  seceding  states,  whom  generations  to 
come  will  yet  honor. 

One  afternoon  several  mounted  men,  friendly  to  all  appearance,  rode  up  to  his 
gate,  asking  food  for  themselves  and  animals ;  they  were  invited  to  alight  and  re 
main  till  provision  could  be  made  for  their  wants;  they  entered  the  house  and 
found  two  or  three  men  there,  relatives  of  the  family,  and  entered  freely  into  con 
versation  with  them,  but  not  giving  the  slightest  intimation  as  to  which  party  they 
were  attached.  Supper  was  served;  they  all  sat  down  and  partook;  at  its  close, 
the  strangers  said  that  General  Curtis,  whose  army  was  encamped  some  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  northward,  had  heard  that  he,  Neal,  had  been  giving  information  to 
the  southern  army,  and  that  he  must  go  with  them  to  the  federal  camp  to  answer 
to  this  charge.  The  old  man,  with  all  the  fearlessness  of  innocence,  expressed 
his  willingness  to  go;  but  his  wife  was  fearful,  she  hardly  knew  why;  the  stran 
gers,  however,  insisted  that  he  and  the  men  who  were  in  the  house  should  go  with 
them  instantly  to  the  camp,  tied  their  hands  behind  them,  and  they,  riding,  with 
the  captives  on  foot  before  them,  set  off. 

They  had  only  proceeded  a  few  hundred  yards,  when  they  halted  their  prison 
ers,  formed  them  in  a  line,  and  informed  them  that  if  they  had  any  prayers  to 
offer  they  had  better  begin,  as  they  had  only  five  minutes  to  live.  Appalled  by 
this  intelligence,  they  began  to  plead  for  their  lives.  The  old  man  prayed  them  to 
spare  him,  but  they  were  deaf  to  his  entreaties.  Suddenly  one  of  the  younger 
prisoners,  seeing  death  inevitable,  by  a  violent  effort  broke  the  ropes  which  con 
fined  his  hands,  and  ran  for  the  woods  and  escaped;  upon  this  the  murderers  fired 
upon  the  rest,  killing  the  old  man  and  wounding  the  others,  and  then  hastily 
abandoned  the  scene  of  blood.  They  were  confederates  and  had  endeavored  to 
palm  themselves  off  as  union  soldiers,  had  been  hospitably  entertained,  and  rode 
off  with  the  blood  of  their  innocent  and  unsuspecting  host  upon  their  heads. 

This  was  the  first  killing  of  a  private  and  unarmed  citizen  that  had  taken  place, 
and  the  sensation  it  produced  was  immense.  As  soon  as  it  was  known,  those  who 
gathered  around  the  evening  fire,  in  nearly  every  house  and  cabin,  looked  anx 
iously  into  each  other's  faces,  and  spoke  in  low  tones  of  the  dead  and  their  o'wn 
probable  future.  If  a  stranger  or  two  rode  up  to  a  dwelling,  wives  and  mothers 
became  fearful,  and  children  turned  ghastly  pale;  none  knew  who  would  be  the 
next  victim,  and  a  shadow  seemed  to  have  fallen  upon  every  household. 

One,  writing  from  St.  Louis,  says  : 

All  the  south-western  portions  of  Missouri  has  been  depopulated;  houses  have 
been  sacked  and  burnt;  horses,  swine,  sheep,  and  cattle  have  been  stolen;  their 
brave  defenders  have  often  been  shot  down,  and  women  and  children  have  been 
robbed  of  the  clothes  they  wore.  There  are  now  in  this  city  widows,  whose  hus 
bands  have  been  murdered  before  their  eyes;  their  houses  have  been  stripped  of 
everything  valuable,  and  even  the  very  shoes  have  been  taken  from  their  feet. 

One  woman  saw  her  husband  driven  away  by  the  bayonets  of  a  gang  of  ma 
rauders,  she  knew  not  where.  She  afterward  learned,  from  rumor,  that  he  had 
been  murdered  and  left  about  ten  miles  from 'his  home.  She  went  on  foot  to  the 
place,  and  was  guided  to  the  decaying  body  of  her  husband  by  the  offensive  odor 
which  the  wind  wafted  from  it.  How  terrible  to  a  solitary,  helpless  woman  must 
have  been  that  awful  scene! 

One  respectable  woman  came  into  St.  Louis  barefoot,  with  a  single  cotton  dress 
to  shield  her  from  "  chill  November's  surly  blast." 

We  see,  every  day,  entering  our  city  creaking  and  rickety  carts,  drawn  by  lean 
and  hungry  oxen,  laden  with  half-clad  women  and  children,  with  the  remains  of 
their  furniture  and  bedding.  Sometimes  girls  with  old  quilts  wrapped  around 
them  are  riding  upon  lean  horses  or  shriveled  or  gaunt  mules. 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Many  suffered,  as  did  the  author  of  the  following  affidavit : 

1,  Franklin  Wood,  was  born  in  the  State  of  Maryland,  and  raised  in  Washing 
ton  county,  0.;  have  resided  in  the  State  of  Missouri  for  the  last  fourteen  years, 
prior  to  the  25th  of  March,  1862,  and  was  living  in  the  town  of  Independence, 
Jackson  county,  Mo.,  at  the  time  of  the  breaking  out  of  the  present  rebellion, 
working  at  my  trade  (stone-cutting)  when  President  Lincoln  called  upon  Missouri 
by  requisition,  last  April,  for  four  regiments  of  soldiers  to  protect  Washington 
City.  Claib.  Jackson,  governor  of  said  state,  refused  to  fill  the  requisition,  when 
it  was  proposed,  by  some  loyal  union  men,  to  raise  companies  and  go  to  Washing 
ton  City.  I  made  the  same  proposition  to  raise  a  company  in  Jackson  county, 
but  failed.  After  speaking  frequently  in  favor  of  the  union,  in  opposition  to 
abuse,  1  was  arrested  by  a  band  of  guerrillas  under  Jack  Harris,  late  member  of 
the  legislature.  I  was  working  in  my  shop  at  the  time  when  Jack  Harris  ordered 
his  men  to  demolish  my  work  :  consisting  of  monuments,  a  number  of  head-stones, 
table-tops,  etc.,  valued  at  $1000— all  of  which  they  wantonly  destroyed  because  1 
refused  to  take  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  Southern  Confederacy.  As  an  induce 
ment  to  do  this,  I  was  offered  a  command  in  the  rebel  army.  Still  refusing,  they 
took  me  over  to  the  court  house  square,  and,  after  placing  a  rope  around  my  neck, 
proceeded  to  hang  me,  when  1  was  rescued  by  the  timely  assistance  of  Mr.  Sam 
uel  D.  Lucas,  County  clerk,  who  appealed  to  them  in  my  behalf.  1  was  then  taken 
by  William  Botts  (ex-sheriff  of  the  county,  who  was  second  in  command,)  to  the 
jail-yard,  when,  upon  again  refusing  to  take  the  rebel  oath,  1  was  tied  to  the  "ne 
gro  whipping-post  ' — a  place  of  punishment  for  slaves — my  coat  was  cut  and  torn 
from  my  back,  and  I  received  twenty-five  lashes  from  a  cowhide  it  the  hands  of 
said  Botts. 

While  this  was  going  on,  Jack  Harris  ordered  a  body  of  men  to  set  fire  to  my 
house  and  shop,  which  was  done,  destroying  the  buildings  and  all  their  contents. 
I  was  thrown  into  the  county  jail,  and  confined  in  a  room  fourteen  feet  square,  in 
company  with  twenty  one  others — fourteen  white  men  and  seven  negroes.  Twc 
of  the  white  men  died,  during  the  winter,  from  hardship  and  exposure.  Our  ra 
tions,  per  day,  for  each  prisoner,  was  about  three  ounces  of  pork  and  six  ounces 
of  cold  corn  bread,  with  water.  We  were  compelled  to  lie  upon  the  hard  oak 
floor  with  no  covering  or  fire  during  the  inclemency  of  the  winter  season. 

There  were  about  seventy -five  persons  in  Harris'  band  at  the  time  1  was  taken 
prisoner;  and  I  am  personally  acquainted  with  about  sixty  of  them,  who  were 
residents  of  Jackson  county.  1  lost  betwean  $4000  and  $5000  worth  of  stock  and 
outstanding  accounts.  1  have  a  disease  contracted  through  ill-treatment  and  ex 
posure  during  my  confinement,  which  may  shorten  my  days;  yet  what  are  my 
troubles  compared  with  those  of  thousands  of  others,  who  have  lost  their  all  in 
the  cause  of  the  constitution  and  the  union  ? 

On  the  28th  of  February  hist,  a  detachment  of  General  Pope's  division  came 
into,  and  took  possession  of,  Independence,  and  I  was  released  with  the  others.  I 
was  so  afflicted  with  rheumatism  that  I  was  unable  to  walk,  but  had  to  be  carried 
to  the  transport  and  conveyed  to  the  general  hospital.  There,  under  the  kind 
treatment  of  Surgeon  R.  Wells,  I  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  make  my  way 
here ;  and  by  the  blessing  of  God  1  may  yet  live  to  see  the  day  when  my  enemies 
and  the  enemies  of  my  country  may  tremble  and  the  rebellion  be  crushed. 

.  FRANKLIN  WOOD. 

Subscribed  and  sworn  to,  before  me,  this  26th  day  of  April,  1862,  at  Marietta, 
Ohio.  MANLY  WARREN,  Notary  Public. 

A  correspondent  of  the  New  York  Times,  who  writes  from  Spring 
field,  Mo.,  tells  the  following  sad  tale : 

The  tender  mercies  of  secession  are  cruel.  I  have  just  heard  the  sad  story  of 
a  widow  who  has  buried  two  sons  and  a  daughter  since  the  outbreak  of  the  rebel 
lion.  Her  three  children  all  fell  by  the  hand  of  violence. 

She  lived  in  the  White  River  country — a  land  of  hills  and  of  ignorance.  In 
that  country  she  and  her  family  stood  almost  alone  on  the  side  of  the  nationa! 
union.  Her  neighbors  were  advocates  of  rebellion,  and  even  before  the  arrival 


IN  MISSOURI. 

of  our  army  in  Springfield,  all  loyal  citizens  were  warned  that  they  must  leave 
their  homes  or  die.  It  was  little  that  the  poor  widow  had  to  leave — a  miserable 
log-cabin  and  a  small  patch  of  hillside — but  such  as  it  was,  she  was  preparing  to 
abandon  it,  when  her  son  Harvey  left  her,  in  search  of  employment.  She  packed 
his  bundle  with  a  heavy  heart;  took  a  silk  handkerchief  from  her  neck,  ^ave  it 
to  him,  and  kissed  him  good-bye,  never  expecting  to  see  him  again. 

He  had  not  been  gone  many  days  when  her  persecution  began.  Her  little  boy 
was  one  evening  bringing  in  wood  for  the  fire,  when  a  shot  was  heard — a  bullet 
struck  the  log  under  his  arm,  and  he  dropped  it  with  a  scream.  The  ball  had 
just  missed  his  heart.  Joy  at  his  escape  from  death  was  henceforth  mingled  with 
gloomy  apprehension.  Next  she  heard  of  the  death  of  Harvey.  He  had  found  a 
home,  and  fancied  himself  secure:  was  alone  at  work  in  the  field.  The  family 
with  whom  he  lived  was  absent.  When  they  returned  at  noon  they  found  his 
dead  body,  in  the  house,  pierced  with  a  bullet  His  torn  cap,  and  other  signs,  wit 
nessed  the  severity  of  his  struggle  before  he  yielded  to  his  murderer. 

From  this  time  the  family  of  Mrs.  Willis  lived  in  constant  fear.  One  day  a 
gun  was  fired  at  them  as  they  sat  at  dinner.  Often  they  saw  men  prowling  about 
with  guns,  looking  for  the  young  men.  One  man  was  bold  enough  to  come  into 
the  cabin  in  search  of  them.  At  night  they  all  hid  in  the  woods,  and  slept.  The 
poor  woman  was  one  day  gathering  corn  in  the  garden,  and  William  was  sitting 
upon  the  fence. 

"Don't  sit  there,  William,"  said  his  mother,  "you  are  too  fair  a  mark  fora 
shot."  Willium  went  to  the  door,  and  sat  upon  the  step.  "  William,"  said  his 
sister,  "you  are  not  safe  there.  Come  into  the  house."  He  obeyed.  He  was 
sitting  between  two  beds,  when  suddenly  another  shot  rang  upon  the  air,  and  the 
widow's  second  son,  Samuel,  whom  she  had  not  noticed  sitting  by  another  door, 
rose  to  his  feet,  staggered  a  few  steps  toward  his  mother,  and  fell  a  corpse  before 
her.  "  I  never  wished  any  one  in  torment  before,"  she  said,  "  but  I  did  wish  the 
man  that  killed  him  was  there." 

Her  three  eldest  sons  at  once  left  the  cabin  and  fled  over  the  hills.  They  are  all 
in  the  national  army  to-day.  Samuel's  sister  washed  the  cold  clay  and  dressed  it 
for  the  grave.  After  two  days  the  secession  neighbors  came  to  bury  him.  At 
first  the  frantic  mother  refund  to  let  them  touch  his  body;  but  after  a  time  she 
consented.  The  clods  were  falling  upon  the  coffin,  each  sound  awakening  an 
echo  in  her  heart,  when  a  whip-poor-will  fluttered  down,  with  its  wild,  melancholy 
cry,  and  settled  in  the  open  grave.  The  notes  so  terrified  the  conscience-stricken, 
superstitious  wretches  that,  for  a  moment,  they  fled  in  dismay. 

Two  of  her  children  were  now  in  the  tomb.  Three  had  fled  for  their  lives. 
The  unhappy  woman  was  left,  with  her  two  daughters  and  three  small  children, 
helpless  and  alone.  She  was  compelled  to  go  thirty  miles,  on  horseback,  to  mill 
for  food,  and  afterward  to  return  on  foot,  leading  her  horse  by  the  bridle,  with  the 
sack  of  meal  upon  his  back.  On  her  return  she  met  her  children  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  her  own  house.  In  her  neighbor's  yard,  her  two  eldest  boys,  aged 
ten  and  twelve  years,  were  digging  another  grave — the  grave  of  an  old  man,  mur 
dered,  in  her  absence,  for  the  crime  of  loyalty  to  the  union.  Together  with  a 
white-headed  patriot,  who  tottered  with  age,  they  placed  the  corpse  upon  a  board, 
rolled  it,  unprepared  for  burial  and  uncoffined,  into  the  shallow  pit,  and  then  cov 
ered  it  with  earth. 

/The  widow  now  escaped,  for  refuge,  to  this  city.  And  here,  to  crown  her  sor 
rows,  in  the  absence  of  her  three  oldest  remaining  sons,  a  drunken  soldier  of  the 
5th  Kansas  regiment  shot  her  daughter,  Mary,  as  she  was  standing  in  the  door  of 
her  house.  Is  it  any  wonder  that  this  woman's  hair  is  gray,  her  forehead  full  of 
wrinkles,  or  that  she  should  say,  with  tremulous  tones :  "  1  feel  that  I  shall  not 
live  long.  The  only  thing  which  sustains  me  is  the  love  of  Christ." 

Another  writes :  The  stories  of  barbarities  committed  upon  union 
men,  at  the  south,  have  been  so  horrid  that  we  have  been  almost  dis 
posed  to  discredit  them. 

Take  this  as  an  instance :  I  met  a  lady,  who,  with  her  husband,  was  from  Mas- 


614  TIMES  OF  THE   REBELLION 

sachusetts — herself  a  Presbyterian — who  told  me  that  in  a  neighborhood  where 
they  had  resided,  nine  of  their  neighbors  were  murdered  by  the  bushwhackers, 
who  came  in  with  a  list  of  the  names  of  the  doomed  men,  arid  went  from  house 
to  house  on  their  hellish  errand.  Finding  one  man,  they  would  compel  him  to  es 
cort  them  to  the  house  of  the  next,  and  when  within  sight  of  the  house  of  the  new 
victim,  they  would  dispatch  the  man  in  hand.  No  begging  would  suffice.  The 
reply  was,  "You  are  radicals,  and  we  are  sent  to  kill  you."  After  shooting, 
they  cut  the  throats  of  each  from  ear  to  ear.  They  cut  off  the  ears  and  nose  of 
one  man,  and  then  cut  out  his  heart.  One  man,  after  they  had  wounded  him,  they 
shot  while  his  wife  was  bathing  the  wound.  Another,  shot  in  three  places,  yet 
alive,  begged  for  the  chance  of  his  life.  "No;  we  don't  do  our  business  in  that 
way,"  was  the  reply ;  and  the  captain  put  his  revolver  to  the  head  of  the  poor 
man  and  killed  him. 

The  St.  Louis  News  of  May  1st,  1862,  gives  this  account  of  the  mur 
der  of  eleven  men  in  Cedar  county :  one  of  whom  was  Obediah  Smith, 
a  member  of  the  state  legislature  : 

The  scene  of  the  atrocities  was  the  neighborhood  of  Bear  creek  post  office,  in 
the  eastern  part  of  Cedar  county.  "On  Sunday,  the  19th  of  April,  a  band  of  guer 
rillas,  thirty-one  in  number,  came  into  the  neighborhood  from  Calhoun,  in  Henry 
county.  They  first  captured  seven  soldiers  of  the  State  Militia,  three  of  whom 
were  of  Col.  Gravelly's  regiment,  and  four  of  Capt.  McCabe's  company,  who  were 
on  their  return  from  guarding  the  Paymaster  to  Springfield.  After  being  cap 
tured,  they  were  stripped  of  all  their  clothing  but  their  shirts  and  drawers,  formed 
in  a  line,  and  shot  from  behind,  the  charges  entering  the  back  of  their"  heads. 
All  seven  were  killed,  and  fell  to  the  ground  in  a  heap.  Having  perpetrated  this 
butchery,  the  villains  went  to  the  north  of  Stockton,  in  the  same  county,  and  cap 
tured  Robert  Williams  and Powell,  taking  them  up  to  the  house  of  a  seces 
sionist  to  feed.  Finding  no  corn  at  this  house,  they  asked  Mr.  Williams  for  di 
rections  to  a  place  where  they  could  get  feed;  but  while  he  was  standing  before 
them,  giving  the  requested  information,  they  shot  him  in  the  head,  killing  him  in 
stantly.  They  then  turned  to  Powell  and  fired  at  him,  wounding  him.  Neverthe 
less,  he  sprang  up  and  ran  three  quarters  of  a  mile  before  they  overtook  him.  He 
fell  on  his  knees  and  plead  for  his  life,  but  the  pitiless  murderers  gave  him  a 
second  shot,  which  finished  him.  They  then  took  his  gun  and  went  to  Powell's 
house,  where  they  were  met  by  the  women,  who  told  them  they  had  ruined  them. 
The  scoundrels  replied:  "  We  have  killed  them,  and  you  can  not  help  yourselves." 

They  next  went  to  the  house  of  Obediah  Smith,  and  pretended  to  be  Kansas 
troops.  Mr.  Smith,  believing  them  to  be  such,  went  out  to  the  fence  to  speak 
with  them,  carrying  with  him,  however,  his  Sharpe's  rifle  and  a  pistol.  The  cap 
tain  of  the  band  remarked  to  him:  "You  have  a  gun  just  like  mine  ;  let  me  see 
it."  Smith  unsuspectingly  handed  the  weapon  to  him,  which  the  bushwhacker 
had  no  sooner  received  than  be  said  :  "  I  will  give  you  the  contents  of  this  gun," 
and  fired  at  him.  The  ball  missed  its  aim,  but  the  muzzle  was  so  close  to  Mr. 
S.'s  person,  that  the  powder  burned  his  face.  He,  however,  fired  his  pistol 
twice,  knocking  two  of  the  scoundrels  from  their  horses.  He  then  ran  toward 
his  house,  his  brave  wife  keeping  between  them  for  about  forty  yards,  when,  as 
he  was  trying  to  escape  through  the  orchard,  they  tired  and  brought  him  down. 
Coming  up  to  where  he  lay,  they  shot  him  again  and  again  in  the  back,  and 
then,  turning  him  over,  shot  him  the  face.  He  had  thirty-eight  bullet  wounds 
on  his  body.  The  murderers  then  robbed  him  of  his  money,  $700  or  $800  and 
threw  the  empty  purse  in  his  wife's  face. 

Among  the  horrible  acts  was  one  perpetrated  by  the  rebel  fiends  on 
the  night  of  the  3d  of  November,  1861.  The  passenger  express  train 
bound  west,  on  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  railroad,  when  it  had 
reach  Little  Platte  river  bridge,  nine  miles  east  of  St.  Joseph,  was  pre 
cipitated  into  the  river,  the  whole  train  going  down  with  a  terrible 


IN  MISSOURI. 

crash,  hurling  nearly  100  men,  women,  and  children,  into  the  chasm. 
The  following  account  of  the  affair  is  from  a  St.  Louis  paper : 

The  bridge  was  a  substantial  work  of  100  feet  span,  and  about  35  feet  above 
the  river.  The  timbers  of  the  bridge  had  been  burned  by  these  horrible  wretches 
underneath  the  track,  until  they  would  sustain  but  little  more  than  their  own 
weight,  and  the  fire  was  then  extinguished,  leaving  the  bridge  a  mere  shell. 
The  train,  bringing  from  85  to  100  passenger,  including  women  and  children, 
reached  the  river  at  11  o'clock  at  night,  and,  the  bridge  looking  secure,  passed  in; 
but  no  sooner  had  the  locomotive  measured  its  length  upon  the  bridge  than 
some  40  or  50  yards  of  the  structure  gave  way,  precipitating  the  entire  train 
into  the  abyss  below.  All  the  seats  in  the  passenger  coaches  were  torn  and 
shoved  in  front,  carrying  men,  women  and  children  in  a  promiscuous  heap  down 
the  declivity,  and  burying  them  beneath  the  crushed  timber,  or  throwing  them 
out  of  the  cars  through  the  broken  sides.  Some  were  mangled  by  the  machinery 
tearing  through  the  timbers  ;  several  were  caught  between  planks,  pressing  to 
gether  like  a  vice.  Others  were  struck  by  parts  of  the  roof  as  it  came  down  with 
mighty  force,  and  still  others  were  cut  with  pieces  of  glass.  In  the  midst  of  this 
confusion  the  two  last  cars  of  the  train  went  down,  pitching  the  passengers  into 
he  wreck,  or  throwing  them  into  the  water,  which  at  this  point  is  about  a  foot  and 
i  half  in  depth. 

Only  three  persons— J.  W.  Parker,  superintendent  of  the  United  States  Express, 
itr.  Mars,  mail  agent,  and  Mr.  Hager — were  able  to  afford  assistance  to  the  suffer 
ing — the  remainder  of'those  who  were  not  killed  outright  being  so  disabled  as  to 
be  helpless.  After  doing  all  that  was  possible  for  those  requiring  immediate  at 
tention,  Mr.  Hager,  at  midnight,  left  the  wreck  to  go  to  St.  Joseph  for  medical  and 
other  assistance.  He  walked  five  miles  of  the  way,  when  he  found  a  hand  car, 
upon  which  he  proceeded  the  remainder  of  the  journey.  Two  hundred  yards 
west  of  the  bridge  he  discovered  a  heavy  oak  railroad  tie  strongly  strapped  across 
the  track,  and  two  miles  further  on  he  found  the  trestle  work  over  a  small  stream 
on  fire,  which,  however,  had  'not  as  yet  been  so  badly  burned  that  trains  could 
not  pass  over  or  could  not  be  easily  extinguished. 

Arriving  at  St.  Joseph,  the  alarm  was  soon  spread  throughout  the  city,  and,  al 
though  it  was  one  o'clock  at  night,  75  men,  including  all  the  physicians  in  the 
neighborhood,  a  train  fully  equipped,  supplied  with  medical  stores  and  other  neces 
saries,  went  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster. 

The  wounded  had  emerged  from  the  wreck,  and  were  lying  on  the  banks  and  upon 
a  sand  bar  in  the  river.  Seventeen  dead  bodies  were  recovered,  and  it  is  believed 
that  this  number  embraced  all  who  were  killed  up  to  that  time.  Two  are  so 
badly  mangled  that  it  was  not  expected  they  would  survive  till  morning,  while 
many  others  were  dangerously  wounded,  and  would  have  to  be  well  taken  care  of 
to  recover.  Many  who  will  escape  with  their  lives,  will  be  maimed  and  crippled. 

The  annals  of  atrocity  furnish  nothing  more  fiendish  than  the  "  Sam 
G-aty  Butchery"  in  the  spring  of  18G3,  as  related  by  the  St.  Joseph 
Herald  : 

The  steamboat  Sam  Gaty  had  arrived  at  Sibley's  Landing  where  the  channel 
was  close  to  shore,  and  was  hailed  by  some  men  on  the  bank,  followed  by  the 
cracking  of  a  dozen  or  more  guns.  The  pilot  put  her  in  shore,  and  George  Todd 
and  about  twenty-five  of  his  gang  of  guerrillas  came  aboard.  It  was  almost  morn 
ing,  and  there  was  no  moon.  The  rebels  were  dressed  in  butternut,  having  a  pair 
of  Colt's  navy  revolvers  each  (and  some  as  many  as  three  and  four),  and  shot-guns 
and  rifles.  Todd  wore  a  large  cloth  coat,  with  an  ample  cape  and  flowing  sleeves, 
and  had  also  a  slouched  hat,  which  he  soon  exchanged  with  a  passenger  for  a 
new  light-colored  beaver.  He  gave  the  command,  and  the  work  of  murder  com 
menced.  The  passengers  were  mostly  ladies,  and  the  few  gentlemen  were  un 
armed. 

They  first  killed  George  Meyer,  by  shooting  him  in  the  back.  Meyer  was  for 
merly  in  this  city,  and  when  Col.  Peabody  was  here  after  the  seige  of  Lexington, 


616  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

he  was  in  Major  Berry's  cavalry  command,  acting  as  Quartermaster  For  a  time 
he  was  Serjeant-Major  of  the  5th  Cavalry,  Col.  Penick.  During  the  last  winter 
he  was  frequently  engaged,  with  Assistant-Secretary  Rodman,  in  the  Senate  at 
Jefferson  City,  in  writing  up  the  journal.  He  was  a  young  man  of  the  most  gen 
erous  impulses,  and  will  be  mourned  by  a  large  number  of  men,  who  will  avenge 
his  death. 

The  cowardly  butchers  next  blew  out  the  brains  of  William  Henry,  a  member 
of  Capt.  Wakerlin's  company.  He,  too,  was  a  St.  Joseph  boy,  and  was  formerly 
engaged  in  a  stall  in  our  city  market,  and  at  one  time,  we  think,  labored  for  John 
P.  Hax,  a  meat  dealer.  He  leaves  a  wife  and  four  children  in  our  city  wholly 
unprovided  for.  They  next  led  out  to  slaughter  young  Schuttner,  of  this  town, 
whom  they  first  robbed  of  $200,  then  shot.  He  revived  the  next  morning,  and 
will  probably  recover. 

The  most  revolting  act  in  the  bloody  drama  was  the  ordering  ashore  of  twenty 
negroes,  drawing  them  up  in  line,  one  man  holding  a  lantern  up  by  the  side  of 
their  faces,  while  the  murderers  shot  them,  one  by  one,  through  the  head.  This 
inhuman  butchery  was  within  three  yards  of  the  boat  One  negro  alone  of  all 
that  were  shot  is  alive. 

Christ.  Habacher,  who  lives  near  Hamilton's  Mill,  in  this  city,  was  aboard,  but 
managed  to  hide  his  money,  and  got  off  scot  free.  Charley,  formerly  bar-keeper 
for  Christian  Wagner,  in  Jefferson  City,  was  robbed  of  every  dollar  he  had,  some 
$450.  George  Schriverof  this  city  was  led  out  to  be  shot,  and  a  watchman  on  the 
boat  halloed,  "  hold  on  there,  he  is  one  of  my  deck  hands,"  and  they  led  him  back, 
taking  $72  from  him,  being  all  he  had  except  $20,  which  he  had  secreted  on  the 
boat.  George  Morenstecker,  a  grocer,  on  the  corner  of  Tenth  street  and  Frede 
rick  avenue,  in  this  city,  and  a  captain  in  the  33d  Missouri,  was  robbed  of  $1060 
and  his  gold  watch.  The  affair  ended  by  the  gang  going  aboard  the  boat  and 
compelling  the  passengers  to  throw  overboard  fifty  wagon-beds,  100  sacks  of  flour, 
and  a  large  amount  of  other  stores,  including  sugar,  coffee,  etc.  Wearing  apparel 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen  was  indiscriminately  plundered. 

There  were  about  80  contrabands  aboard,  sent  on  their  way  to  Kansas  by  Gen. 
Curtis.  Sixty  jumped  off  and  ran  away,  and  are  now  under  Col.  Penick,  whose 
men  are  scouring  the  country  for  these  murderers.  When  the  guerrillas  drew 
their  revolvers  on  the  negroes  as  they  stood  in  line,  the  women  on  the  boat 
screamed  and  cried,  and  begged  them  not  to  kill  them,  but  the  work  of  death 
went  on. 

Speedy  vengeance  followed  this  act  of  diabolism.  These  guerrillas 
were  pursued  into  Jackson  county  by  Major  Ransom  of  the  6th  Kansas, 
seventeen  of  them  shot,  and  two  hung.  Indeed,  retribution  swift  and 
terrible  often  overtook  the  perpetrators  of  these  cruel  wrongs.  The 
Palmyra  Courier  describes  a  tragic  scene  of  this  nature,  which  occurred 
in  the  fall  of  1863. 

Saturday  last,  the  18th  instant,  witnessed  the  performance  of  a  tragedy  in  this 
once  quiet  and  beautiful  city  of  Palmyra,  which  in  ordinarily  peaceful  times 
would  have  created  a  profound  sensation  throughout  the  entire  country,  but  which 
now  scarcely  produces  a  distinct  ripple  upon  the  surface  of  our  turbulent  social 
tide. 

It  will  be  remembered  by  our  readers  that  on  the  occasion  of  Porter's  descent 
upon  Palmyra,  he  captured,  among  other  person,  an  old  and  highly  respected  res 
ident  of  this  city,  by  name,  Andrew  Allsman.  This  person  formerly  belonged  to 
the  3d  Missouri  Cavalry,  though  too  old  to  endure  all  the  hardships  of  very  active 
duty.  He  was,  therefore,  detailed  as  a  kind  of  special  or  extra  Provost  Marshal's 
guard  or  cicerone — making  himself  generally  useful  in  a  variety  of  ways  to  the 
military  of  the  place.  Being  an  old  resident  and  widely  acquainted  with  the 
people  of  the  place  and  vicinity,  he  was  frequently  called  upon  for  information 
touching  the  lovalty  of  men,  which  he  always  gave  to  the  extent  of  his  ability, 
though  acting,  we  believe,  in  all  such  cases,  with  great  candor,  and  actuated  solely 


IN  MISSOURI. 


617 


by  a  conscientious  desire  to  discharge  his  whole  duty  to  his  government.  His 
knowledge  of  the  surrounding  country  was  the  reason  of  his  being  frequently 
called  upon  to  act  as  a  guide  to  scouting  parties  sent  out  to  arrest  disloyal  per 
sons.  So  efficiently  and  successfully  did  he  act  in  these  various  capacities,  that 
he  won  the  bitter  hatred  of  all  the  rebels  in  this  city  and  vicinity,  and  they  only 
awaited  the  coming  of  a  favorable  opportunity  to  gratify  their  desire  for  revenge. 
The  opportunity  came  at  last,  when  Porter  took  Palmyra.  That  the  villains,  with 
Porter's  assent,  satiated  their  thirst  for  his  blood  by  the  deliberate  and  predeter 
mined  murder  of  their  helpless  victim,  no  truly  loyal  man  doubts.  When  they 
killed  him,  or  how,  or  where,  are  items  of  the  act  not  yet  revealed  to  the  public. 
Whether  he  was  stabbed  at  midnight  by  the  dagger  of  the  assassin,  or  shot  at 
midday  by  the  rifle  of  the  guerrilla;  whether  he  was  hung,  and  his  body  hidden 
beneath  the  scanty  soil  of  some  oaken  thicket,  or  left  as  food  for  hogs  to  fatten 
upon;  or  whether,  like  the  ill-fated  Wheat,  his  throat  was  severed  from  ear  to  ear, 
and  his  body  sunk  beneath  the  wave — we  know  not.  But  that  he  was  foully,  cause 
lessly  murdered,  it  is  useless  to  attempt  to  deny. 

When  General  McNeil  returned  to  Palmyra,  after  that  event,  and  ascertained 
the  circnmstances  under  which  Allsman  had  been  abducted,  he  caused  to  be  is 
sued,  after  due  deliberation,  the  following  notice  : 

"PALMYRA,  Mo.,  October  8. 

"  JOSEPH  C.  PORTER — SIR  :  Andrew  Allsman,  an  aged  citizen  of  Palmyra,  and 
non-combatant,  having  been  carried  from  his  home  by  a  band  of  persons  unlaw 
fully  arrayed  against  the  peace  and  good  order  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  and 
which  band  was  under  your  control  this  is  to  notify  you  that  unless  said  Andrew 
Allsman  is  returned,  unharmed,  to  his  family  within  ten  days  from  date,  ten  men 
who  have  belonged  to  your  band  unlawfully  sworn  by  you  to  carry  arms  against 
the  Government  of  the  United  States,  and  who  are  now  in  custody,  will  be  shot, 
as  a  meet  reward  for  their  crimes,  among  which  is  the  illegal  restraining  of  said 
Allsman  of  his  liberty,  and,  if  not  returned,  presumptively  aiding  in  his  murder. 

"  Your  prompt  attention  to  this  will  save  much  suffering. 

"  Yours,  etc.  W.  R.  STRACHAN. 

"  Provost  Marshal  General,  District  N.  E.  Ma 
"  Per  order  of  Brigadier  General  commanding  McNeil's  column." 

A  written  duplicate  of  this  notice  he  caused  to  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  the 
wife  of  Joseph  C.  Porter,  at  her  residence  in  Lewis  county,  who,  it  was  well- 
known,  was  in  frequent  communication  with  her  husband.  The  notice  was  pub 
lished  widely,  and  as  Porter  was  in  northeast  Missouri  during  the  whole  of  the 
ten  days  subsequent  to  the  date  of  this  notice,  it  is  impossible  that,  with  all  his 
varied  channels  of  information,  he  remained  unappraised  of  General  McNeil's 
determination  in  the  premises. 

Many  rebels  believed  the  whole  thing  was  simply  intended  as  a  scare — declar 
ing  that  McNeil  did  not  dare  (!)  to  carry  out  the  threat. 

The  ten  days  elapsed,  and  no  tidings  came  of  the  murdered  Allsman.  It  is  not 
our  intention  to  dwell  upon  the  details  of  this  transaction.  The  tenth  day  ex 
pired  with  last  Friday.  On  that  day  ten  rebel  prisoners,  already  in  custody,  were 
selected  to  pay,  with  the  lives,  the  penalty  demanded.  The  names  of  the  men  so 
selected  were  as  follows  : 

Willis  Baker,  Lewis  county  ;  Thomas  Humston,  Lewis  county;  Morgan  Bixler, 
Lewis  county;  John  Y.  MePheeters,  Lewis  county;  Herbert  Hudson,  Kails 
county ;  Captain  Thomas  A,  Snider,  Monroe  county ;  Eleazer  Lake,  Scotland 
county;  Hiram  Smith,  Knox  county. 

These  parties  were  informed  Friday  evening,  that  unless  Mr.  Allsman  was  re 
turned  to  his  family  by  one  o'clock  on  the  following  day,  they  would  be  shot  at 
that  hour. 

Most  of  them  received  the  announcement  with  composure  or  indifference.  The 
Rev.  James  S.  Green,  of  this  city,  remained  with  them  during  that  night,  as  their 
spiritual  adviser,  endeavoring  to  prepare  them  for  their  sudden  entrance  into  the 
presence  of  their  Maker. 

A  little  after  11  o'clock  A.  M.,  the  next  day,  three  government  wagons  drove  to 


618  TIMES  OP  THE  REBELLION 

the  jail.  One  contained  four,  and  each  of  the  others  three  rough  board  coffins. 
The  condemned  mere  conducted  from  the  prison  and  seated  in  the  wagons — one 
upon  each  coffin.  A  sufficient  guard  of  soldiers  accompanied  them,  and  the  cav 
alcade  started  for  the  fatal  grounds.  Proceeding  east  to  Main-street,  the  cortege 
turned  and  moved  slowly  as  far  as  Malone's  livery-stable;  thence  turning  east,  it 
entered  the  Hannibal  road,  pursuing  it  nearly  to  the  residence  of  Colonel  James 
Culbertson ;  there,  throwing  down  the  fence,  they  turned  northward,  entering  the 
fair-grounds  (half  a  mile  east  of  town)  on  the  west  side,  and  driving  within  the 
circular  amphitheater,  paused  for  the  final  consummation  of  the  scene. 

The  ten  coffins  were  removed  from  the  wagons,  and  placed  in  a  row,  six  or 
eight  feet  apart,  forming  a  line,  north  and  south,  about  fifteen  paces  east  of  the 
central  pagoda  or  music  stand  in  the  center  of  the  ring.  Each  coffin  was  placed 
on  the  ground  with  its  head  toward  the  east.  Thirty  soldiers,  of  the  Missouri 
state-militia,  were  drawn  up,  in  a  single  line,  facing  the  row  of  coffins.  This  line 
of  executioners  extended  directly  from  the  east  base  of  the  pagoda,  leaving  a 
space  between  them  and  the  coffins  of  twelve  or  thirteen  paces.  .Reserves  were 
drawn  up  in  line  upon  either  flank  of  these  executioners. 

The  arrangements  completed,  the  doomed  men  knelt  on  the  grass  between  their 
coffins  and  the  soldiers,  and  while  the  Rev.  R.  M.  Rhodes  offered  up  a  prayer. 
At  the  conclusion  of  this  each  prisoner  took  his  seat  upon  the  foot  of  his  coffin, 
facing  the  muskets  which,  in  a  few  moments,  were  to  launch  them  into  eternity. 
They  were  nearly  all  firm  and  undaunted.  Two  or  three  only  showed  signs  of 
trepidation. 

The  most  noted  of  the  ten  was  Captain  Thomas  A.  Snider,  of  Monroe  county, 
who  was  captured,  at  Shelbyville,  disguised  as  a  woman.  He  was  now  elegantly 
attired  in  a  coat  and  pantaloons  of  black  broadcloth  and  a  white  vest.  A  luxu 
rious  growth  of  beautiful  hair  rolled  down  his  shoulders,  which,  with  his  tine 
personal  appearance,  could  not  but  bring  to  mind  the  handsome  but  vicious  Abso- 
lom.  There  was  nothing  especially  worthy  of  note  in  the  appearance  of  the  others. 
One  of  them,  Willis  Baker,  of  Lewis  county,  was  proven  to  be  the  man  who,  some 
time  before,  shot  and  killed  Mr.  Ezekiel  Pratte,  his  union  neighbor,  near  Wil- 
liamstown,  in  that  county.  All  the  others  were  rebels  of  lesser  note,  the  particu 
lars  of  whose  crimes  we  are  not  familiar  with. 

A  few  minutes  after  one  o'clock,  Colonel  Strachan,  provost-marshal-general,  and 
Rev.  Mr.  Rhodes,  shook  hands  with  the  prisoners.  Two  of  them  accepted  band 
ages  for  their  eyes — all  the  rest  refused.  A  hundred  spectators  had  gathered 
around  the  amphitheater  to  witness  the  impressive  scene.  The  stillness  of  death 
pervaded  the  place. 

The  officer  in  command  now  stepped  forward,  and  gave  the  word  of  command : 
"Ready — aim — fire!"  The  discharges,  however,  were  not  made  simultaneously, 
probably  through  want  of  a  perfect  understanding  of  the  orders  and  of  the  time 
at  which  to  fire.  Two  of  the  rebels  fell  backward  upon  their  coffins  and  died  in 
stantly.  Captain  Snider  sprang  forward  and  fell  with  his  head  toward  the  soldiers, 
his  face  upward,  his  hands  clasped  upon  his  breast,  and  the  left  leg  drawn  half 
way  up.  He  did  not  move  again,  but  died  immediately.  He  had  requested  the 
soldiers  to  aim  at  his  heart,  and  they  had  obeyed  but  too  implicitly.  The  other 
seven  were  not  killed  outright;  so  the  reserves  were  called  in,  who  dispatched 
them  with  their  revolvers. 

The  lifeless  remains  were  then  placed  in  the  coffins ;  the  lids,  upon  which  the 
name  of  each  man  was  written,  were  screwed  on,  and  the  solemn  procession  re 
turned  to  town  by  the  same  route  it  had  pursued  in  going;  but  the  souls  of  ten 
men  that  went  out  came  not  back. 

Friends  came  and  took  seven  of  the  corpses;  three  were  buried  by  the  military 
in  the  public  cemetery ;  and  the  tragedy  was  over. 

Retaliation  of  the  same  character  occurred  at  St.  Louis,  on  the  29th 
of  October,  1864,  for  the  murder  of  Major  Wilson,  of  the  3d  Missouri, 
and  six  of  his  men,  by  the  guerrilla  chief,  Sim  Reeves.  The  major 
and  his  comrades  had  been  taken  prisoners  at  Pilot  Knob,  and  were 


IN  MISSOURI. 


619 


killed  after  their  surrender.  Their  bodies  were  accidentally  discov 
ered  in  the  woods  by  young  men  out  gathering  persimmons.  Three 
of  them  were  horrible  mutilated  by  the  hogs.  The  others  had  on 
United  States  uniforms,  one  being  that  of  a  major  of  cavalry.  From 
papers  and  orders  in  his  pocket,  and  other  circumstances,  it  was 
identified  as  that  of  the  unfortunate  Wilson.  Upon  this,  six  rebel 
prisoners,  of  the  Arkansas  and  Missouri  cavalry,  were  selected  to  be 
shot  in  retaliation.  The  names  of  these  doomed  men  were :  James 
W.  Gates,  Geo.'T.  Bunch,  Hervey  H.  Blackburn,  John  Nichols,  Chas. 
W.  Minnekin,  and  Asa  Y.  Ladd.  The  circumstances  of  their  execu 
tion  were  thus  detailed  at  the  time : 

The  men  were  told  of  their  fate,  last  night,  and  were  allowed  every  opportunity 
for  preparation  that  could,  under  the  circumstances,  be  given.  They  were  placed 
together  in  a  separate  ward,  and  it  is  said  that  the  scene  beggared  description. 
They  were  cut  to  the  soul  with  horror,  and  gave  expression  to  their  terrible  agony 
with  such  wailings  as  can  not  be  repeated. 

In  the  mean  time  Lieutenant-Colonel  Heinrichs  chose  the  place  of  execution, 
at  Fort  No.  4,  the  same  place  where  Barney  Gibbons,  the  deserter,  was  shot  sev 
eral  weeks  ago,  and  made  such  necessary  preparations  as  he  could.  Six  stakes 
were  sunk  in  the  ground,  eight  feet  apart,  each  stake  having  a  little  seat  attached 
for  the  men  to  sit  upon,  and  the  name,  rank,  regiment,  etc.,  of  each  man  was  in 
scribed  on  a  label  tacked  overhead. 

The  place  was  well  adapted  for  the  purpose,  because  it  was  clear  of  the  city, 
yet  sufficiently  near ;  the  space  was  large  and  open,  and  the  parapet  of  the  fort 
would  receive  any  bullets  that  might  miss  their  mark. 

At  half  past  two,  the  prisoners,  under  a  strong  guard,  left  the  Gratiot-streei 
prison,  and  were  marched  out  to  the  fort,  where  the  troops  of  the  post  were  al 
ready  under  arras  and  forming  a  hollow  square,  with  the  six  stakes  at  the  upper, 
open  side.  Upon  arriving  on  the  ground,  the  six  men  were  placed,  each  beside 
his  stake  and  ordered  to  take  his  seat,  after  which  their  arms  were  pinioned  to  the 
stakes,  behind,  to  prevent  the  bodies  falling  forward  on  the  ground.  Fifty-four 
men,  forty-four  of  the  10th  Kansas  (dead  shots,)  and  ten  of  the  41»t  Missouri, 
were  detailed  as  the  firing-party.  Thirty-six  men  stood,  six  before  each  stake, 
with  three  in  reserve,  behind  each  six,  in  case  the  first  volley  should  not  be  ef 
fective. 

The  wretched  men  were  allowed  to  speak.  They  said  it  was  hard  to  be  com 
pelled  to  die  that  way,  and  all  prayed  to  God  to  have  mercy  upon  their  souls.  It 
was  a  dreadful  sight,  and  made  the  stoutest  heart  quail.  The  wailing  voices  of 
the  six  mingled  together  in  the  clear  autumnal  air,  and  were  wafted  up  to  heaven 
to  the  Great  Father,  who  looked  down  in  pity  on  his  poor,  helpless,  and  imploring 
creatures.  A  chaplain  knelt  down  and  prayed,  and  after  taking  a  pious  leave  of 
each  the  ghastly  white  caps  were  produced  and  drawn  over  their  faces.  The 
scene  then  presented  was  thrilling,  and  may  be  represented  as  follows : 

GATES.  BUNCH.       BLACKBURN.     NICHOLS.      MINNEKIN.  LADD. 

f  coffin.        f  coffin.       f  coffin.       f  coffin.       f  coffin.       f  coffin. 
Fifteen  paces. 


Six  men  with  loaded  muskets  (five  with  bullets,)  before  each  stake. 
Three  men  with  loaded  muskets  (two  with  bullets,)  behind  each  six,  as  reserve. 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Heinrichs  gave  the  word  "  Ready — aim — fire."  The  thirty- 
six  muskets  flashed  as  one,  and  each  of  the  doomed  men  died  almost  instantly. 
Five  out  of  the  six  received  two  bullets  through  the  heart;  the  sixth  died  even 
sooner  than  those  thus  shot. 

We  conclude  these  narratives  of  horror  by  an  account  of  the  Gen- 


£20  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

tralia  Butchery,  which  took  place  on  the  27th  of  September,  1864. 
The  only  satisfactory  reflection  connected  with  the  affair  is,  that  a 
few  days  after,  Anderson,  the  guerrilla  leader,  was  killed,  and  his 
band  routed,  near  Albany,  by  a  force  sent  out  in  pursuit,  under  Lieu 
tenant-Colonel  S.  P.  Cox,  32d  Eegiment  E.  M.  M.  The  particulars  of 
the  butchery  were  thus  given  in  the  St.  Joseph  Morning  Herald : 

Bill  Anderson  and  his  body  of  bushwhacking  fiends,  numbering  from  250  to  300 
men,  rode  into  the  town  of  Centralia,  on  the  North-Missouri  Railroad,  and  there 
waited  for  the  passenger-train  coming  north  to  Macon.  He  had  his  pickets  sta 
tioned  a  mile  from  town,  on  a  prominent  place  in  the  prairie.  Passengers  on  the 
train  saw  them  and  believed  they  were  rebels;  but  the  conductor,  supposing  all 
was  right,  and  anticipating  no  danger,  ran  the  train  info  Centralia. 

As  it  approached  the  station,  Anderson  had  his  men  drawn  up  near  it,  and 
mounted,  ready  to  run  in  case  there  was  any  force  on  the  train ;  but  finding  there 
was  none,  he  gave  orders  to  dismount  and  surround  the  train,  which  his  men  did 
with  their  revolvers  in  their  hands.  Then  commenced  a  scene  of  consternation: 
men,  women,  and  children,  frightened  and  crying,  imploring  for  their  lives,  money, 
and  the  clothing  they  had  on  their  persons — all  were  in  the  greatest  state  of  alarm 
and  confusion.  Anderson's  men  walked  through  the  cars  with  pistol  in  hand. 

They  would  point  their  pistols  at  the  passengers'  faces,  ready  to  fire  if  they  did 
not  hand  over  their  money  and  valuables.  Some  passengers,  who  were  fright 
ened,  at  once  handed  over  every  thing  they  had  which  was  of  any  account. 
Others,  having  more  presence  of  mind,  threw  their  money  to  the  ladies,  who  were 
not  molested  by  the  bushwhackers,  as  Anderson  told  his  men,  in  the  train,  not  to 
trouble  women  or  children.  After  they  had  robbed  the  passengers,  they  ordered 
them  out  into  a  line  and  marched  them  around  the  bluff  and  kept  them  there  a 
short  time. 

There  being  twenty-four  unarmed  soldiers  aboard,  they  were  ordered  into  a 
line,  marched  out  a  few  paces  from  the  train  and  shot.  After  they  had  killed  the 
soldiers,  one  of  Anderson's  men  said  he  recognized  a  German  Jew,  in  the  crowd 
of  citizens,  who  had  tried  to  have  him  hung,  when  a  prisoner  among  the  federals, 
and,  as  soon  as  he  had  finished  talking,  fired  at  the  Jew.  He  was  then  ordered 
out  of  the  line,  when  a  number  of  Anderson's  men  fired  at  him,  killing  him  in 
stantly.  While  some  of  the  bushwhackers  were  guarding  the  passengers  others 
were  rifling  the  baggage-car  and  taking  what  they  wanted. 

After  possessing  themselves  of  the  plunder,  they  set  fire  to  the  passenger-train, 
and  it  was  soon  in  ashes.  In  the  mean  time  a  freight-train  had  arrived.  It  was 
also  captured  and  burnt.  The  engine  of  the  passenger-train  was  all  that  was 
saved.  They  all  then  left,  going  in  the  direction  of  the  Missouri  River.  Some 
of  the  passengers  came  to  Sturgeon,  some  went  below,  and  some  remained  at 
€entralia  One  passenger  was  robbed  of  $2,000,  and  others  of  smaller  amounts. 
If  a  passenger  did  not  give  up  his  money  he  was  threatened  with  being  shot.  An 
officer  and  a  soldier  saved  their  lives  by  being  dressed  in  citizen's  clothes. 

Among  the  brave  and  noble  soldiers  who  were  shot  ware  some  from  Atlanta, 
on  furlough  and  discharged.  A  lieutenant,  who  was  a  cripple,  was  with  them, 
and  was  walking  on  crutches.  He  was  ordered  to  take  off  his  coat  and  vest. 
They  then  killed  him.  Two  hours  after  they  had  burnt  the  train,  a  detach 
ment,  numbering  150  men,  of  Colonel  Keutzner's  regiment  of  twelve-months' 
men,  and  under  the  command  of  Major  Johnson,  arrived  at  Centralia,  and  imme 
diately  formed  in  line  of  battle.  Anderson  also  drew  up  in  line  of  battle  and 
ordered  his  men  forward.  They  carne  on  with  a  yell ;  making  a  dash  on  the  fed 
erals,  causing  their  horses  to  stampede  and  scatter  in  all  directions,  his  men  after 
them,  and  shooting  them  down.  Some  fifteen  made  their  way  into  Sturgeon; 
and  it  is  thought,  from  the  information  of  those  who  escaped,  that  fifty  or  seventy- 
five  soldiers  were  killed.  They  were  new  recruits;  had  seen  no  service;  their 
horses  were  wild  and  unmanageable,  and  they  were  forced  to  retreat. 

An  eye-witness,  a  gentleman  from  Indiana,  gave  these  additional 
incidents  of  the  slaughter : 


IN  MISSOURI. 

The  engineer  of  the  northern-bound  train  said  the  steam  in  the  boiler  was 
quite  low,  and  that,  after  he  discovered  the  character  of  the  troops  in  Centralia, 
it  was  an  utter  impossibility  to  back  the  train  out  of  danger.  This  may  be  true, 
but  many  people  will  ask  why  that  train  was  suffered  to  run  into  a  band  of  bush 
whackers,  when  the  conducior  and  passengers  saw  them  a  mile  distant,  and  it 
was  well  known  that  Bill  Anderson's  gang  had,  that  morning,  been  at  that 
station. 

As  soon  as  the  train  stopped,  Anderson  walked  to  the  platform  and  ordered  the 
passengers  to  march  out.  Our  informant  said  Anderson  appeared  to  be  a  man 
about  five  feet  ten  inches  high,  rather  slim,  black  beard,  long  black  hair  inclined 
to  curl,  and  altogether  a  promising  looking  man  of  about  thirty-two  years  of  age. 
He  was  dressed  in  a  federal  soldiers'  coat,  black  pantaloons,  and  cavalry  hat.  He 
ordered  the  citizens — men,  women,  and  children — to  march  in  one  direction,  and 
those  dressed  in  soldiers'  clothes  in  the  other.  In  getting  off  the  platform  two  of 
the  soldiers  hung  back,  and  talked  against  obeying  orders.  They  were  shot  by 
Anderson,  and  fell  off  between  the  cars.  This  had  the  effect  of  causing  a 
stampede  of  the  passengers,  who  rushed  off  the  cars  in  great  confusion.  There 
were  twenty-four  soldiers  on  board  the  train,  belonging  to  the  23d,  24th,  and  the 
old  25th  Missouri  infantry.  Some  were  wounded  and  sick,  returning  home  on 
furlough,  and  some  were  discharged.  One  was  wounded  in  the  leg  and  hobbled 
on  crutches.  All  the  soldiers  were  formed  in  line,  and  Anderson  walked  up  to 
them  and  thus  addressed  them : 

"You  federals  have  just  killed  six  of  my  soldiers;  scalped  them  and  left  them 
on  the  prairie.  I  am  too  honorable  a  man  to  permit  any  body  to  be  scalped ; 
but  1  will  show  you  that  I  can  kill  men  with  as  much  skill  and  rapidity  as  any 
body.  From  this  time  forward  I  ask  no  quarter  and  give  none.  Every  federal 
soldier  on  whom  I  can  put  my  finger  shall  die  like  a  dog.  If  I  get  into  your 
clutches  I  shall  expect  death.  You  are  all  to  be  killed  and  sent  to  hell.  That  is 
the  way  every  d — d  soldier  shall  be  served  who  falls  into  my  hands." 

Some  of  the  soldiers  remonstrated,  declaring  that  they  were  just  from  Sher 
man's  army,  and  had  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  killing  and  scalping  any  of  his 
men.  Anderson  replied  :  "  I  treat  you  all  as  one.  You  are  federals;  and  federals 
scalped  my  men,  and  carry  their  scalps  at  their  saddle-bows."  A  line  of  bush 
whackers,  with  revolvers,  were  then  drawn  up  before  the  soldiers,  who  cried  and 
begged  for  their  lives ;  but  every  man  was  shot. 

All  fell  but  one,  who  was  shot  through  the  shoulder.  He  dashed  through  the 
guerrillas,  ran  through  the  line  of  citizens  chased  and  fired  at  by  the  fiends, 
crawled  under  the  cars,  and  thence  under  the  depot-building.  The  building  was 
fired  and  he  was  soon  forced  to  come  out.  He  emerged  from  the  smoke  and  flame, 
and  with  a  club  knocked  down  two  of  Anderson's  men  before  they  killed  him. 
He  fell,  pierced  with  twenty  bullets.  The  passengers  were  then  robbed  of  their 
watches,  jewelry,  and  money. 

One  young  man  was  on  his  way  to  St.  Joseph  with  his  mother.  He  slipped  a 
hundred  dollars  in  greenbacks  into  his  boot-leg,  and,  on  demand,  handed  over  the 
balance.  A  guerrilla  asked  him  if  he  had  secreted  any  money  and  he  denied  that 
he  had.  He  was  told  that  he  would  be  searched,  and  that  if  any  funds  were 
found  on  him  he  would  be  killed.  He  then  acknowledged  that  he  'had  secreted 
one  hundred  dollars  in  his  boot,  which  was  drawn  off  by  the  guerrilla,  the  money 
obtained, 'and  the  young  man  shot  dead.  A  gold  watch  was  found  in  the  boot  of  a 
German  and  he  was  instantly  killed. 

When  the  war  began,  Missouri  was  a  slave-state ;  but,  before  it 
ended,  by  her  own  act,  there  is  not  a  slave  on  her  soil.  This  terrible 
incubus  being  removed,  she  is  prepared  to  advance  rapidly  in  the 
path  of  happiness  and  prosperity. 


KANSAS,' 


KANSAS,  prior  to  1854,  was  included  within  the  limits  of  the  "Indian 
Territory,"  lying  west  of  Missouri,  and  the  adjoining  states.  It  was  thus 

called  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
being  the  territory  on  which  several 
tribes  of  Indians,  mainly  from  east 
of  the  Mississippi,  were  located  un 
der  the  direction  of  the  general  gov 
ernment.  The  principal  tribes  thus 
placed  within  the  present  limits  of 
Kansas,  were  the  Delawares,  who 
were  estimated  at  upward  of  800  in 
number ;  the  Kickapoos,  at  about 
900,  the  Shawnees,  at  about  1,300: 
the  Kansas,  one  of  the  original 
tribes  of  this  region,  were  located 
on  the  Kansas  River,  farther  west 
ward,  and  were  supposed  to  number 
about  2,000. 

The  first  white  man  who  traversed 
the  soil  of  Kansas  seems  to  have 
been  M.  Dutisne,  a  French  officer, 
sent  in  1719,  by  Bienville,  the  gov 
ernor  of  Louisiana,  to  explore  the  territory  west  of  the  Mississippi.  He 
passed  up  Osage  River,  a  southern  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and  visited 
several  Indian  villages  within  the  present  limits  of  Kansas. 

In  1804,  Lewis  and  Clark,  on  their  celebrated  Rocky  Mountain  expedi 
tion,  passed  up  the  Missouri  River,  on  the  eastern  boundary  of  Kansas. 
The  oldest  fort  on  this  river  is  Fort  Leavenworth,  which  was  established 
in  1827.  This,  with  the  missionary  establishments  among  the  Indians,  were 
the  first  places  occupied  by  the  whites. 

In  1832,  the  small  pox  reduced  the  Pawnee  Indians,  in  Kansas,  one 
half.  Thus,  enfeebled,  they  entered  into  a  treaty  with  the  United  States, 
disposing  of  their  Kansas  possessions,  and  agreed  to  reside  wholly  north  of 
the  Nebraska  River,  and  west  of  Missouri.  Here,  under  the  patronage  of 
government,  they  erected  dwellings,  shops,  etc.,  and  commenced  agricultural 
improvements.  Their  young  men,  however,  formed  war  parties,  and  com 
mitted  depredations  upon  the  tribes  around  them.  They  were  severely 

(623) 


ARMS  OF  KANSAS. 

MOTTO. — Ad  Astra  per  Atptra.—1!o  Prosperity 
through  Adversity. 


624  KANSAS. 

chastised  by  the  Comanches  and  Osages;  and  the  Utahs,  from  their  mountain 
fastnesses,  avenged  themselves  of  former  cruelties.  To  crown  the  misery  of 
the  Pawnees,  the  Blacki'eet  and  Sioux  Indians,  in  the  north  and  west,  rav 
aged  their  fields,  burned  their  houses,  and  drove  away  their  horses  and  Battle. 
Disheartened,  they  migrated  south,  and  settled  near  the  Ottoes  and  Oinahas, 
where  the  remnant  now  exist. 

"The  whole  Indian  population  of  Kansas,"  says  Mr.  Greene,  in  his  His 
tory  of  the  Kansas  region,  1856, "  is  probably  25,000.  The  immigrant  tribes  are 
the  Kickapoos,  Wyandots,  Sacs  and  Foxes,  Munsees,  Weasand  Plankeshaws, 
Peorias  and  Kaskaskias,  Ottawas,  Potto watamies,  Chippewas,  Delawares,  and 
Shawnees;  embracing  in  all  a  population  of  about  5,000,  and  including  within 
their  reservations,  prior  to  the  treaties  of  1853  and  '54,  almost  ten  millions 
of  acres.  A  million  of  a-cres  were  ceded  by  the  Delawares,  Weas  and  Kick 
apoos,  in  May,  1853,  to  be  sold  at  auction.  The  Shawnee  Reserve  embraces 
thirty  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  line  and  fifteen  south  of  Kansas  River. 
The  Wyandots  have  thirty  sections  in  the  angle  formed  by  the  confluence  of 
the  Kansas  and  Missouri.  The  Delawares  retain  a  tract  ten  miles  wide  arid 
forty  long,  extending  east  from  the  mouth  of  Grasshopper  Creek.  The  Pot- 
tawatomies  own  thirty  miles  square,  cut  through  the  middle  by  Kansas  River. 
The  Kickapoos  have  a  small  reserve  at  the  head  of  the  Grasshopper.  North 
of  the  river  and  below  Pottawatomie,  the  Kansas  still  hold  a  tract  twenty- 
two  miles  long  and  one  wide." 

In  1820,  on  the  admission  of  Missouri  into  the  Union,  the  congress  of 
the  United  States  passed  the  "Missouri  Compromise"  act,  prohibiting  slavery 
in  all  territory  of  the  United  States  north  of  36°  30'.  Kansas  being  north 
of  this  line  was  included  within  the  limits  of  the  prohibition.  In  1854,  on 
the  organization  of  the  Territories  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  congress,  after 
an  exciting  discussion,  passed  the  "Kansas  and  Nebraska  bill,"  which  in 
effect  rendered  nugatory  the  Compromise  Act  of  1820.  This  at  once  opened 
up  a  contest  between  slave-holders  and  free-soil  men  for  possession.  The 
richest  part  of  Missouri,  that  most  densely  filled  with  a  slave  population,  lay 
adjacent  to  the  soil  of  Kansas.  Were  Kansas  to  become  free  territory  the 
people  feared  that  there  would  be  no  security  in  western  Missouri  for  slavery. 
They  determined,  therefore,  to  introduce  and  fasten  the  institution  in 
Kansas. 

The  passage  of  the  Kansas  Nebraska  bill  had  agitated  the  whole  country, 
and  widely  spread  the  information  of  the  fine  climate  and  rich  soil  of  Kan- 
sa*:  this  excited  the  desire  of  multitudes  of  the  citizens  of  the  free  states 
to  emigrate  thither,  introduce  their  institutions,  open  farms  on  its  virgin  soil, 
and  found  new  homes  for  themselves  and  their  children  in  the  beautiful 
prairie  land.  The  conflict  which  ensued  between  the  pro-slavery  and  the 
free-soil  parties  was  inevitable. 

Soon  as  the  tidings  of  the  passage  of  the  Kansas-Nebraska  bill  reached 
western  Missouri,  some  thousands  of  the  people  crossed  over  the  borders  and 
selected  farms,  and  for  a  while  they  had  the  control  of  the  political  move 
ments  in  the  territory,  ere  the  van  of  the  free  state  emigrants  could  reach  it. 

Many  of  the  latter  came  hither  in  bodies,  neighbors  joining  together  for 
that  purpose,  and  in  Massachusetts,  an  Emigrant  Aid  Society  was  created, 
fur  (it  was  alleged)  pecuniary  gain,  by  the  means  of  organized  capital  in 
forming  centers  for  settlers.*  To  counteract  this,  "Blue  Lodges"  were 

*The  Emigrant  Aid  Society  WT»S  originally  formed  in  Massachusetts,  May  4,  1854,  just 
before  the  passage  of  the  Kansas-Nebraska  bill.  In  the  succeeding  February  a  new  char- 


KANSAS.  £25 

established  in  western  Missouri  to  assist  pro-slavery  emigration.  Soon  all 
emigrants  came  armed,  for  events  showed  that  only  by  a  struggle  and  blood 
shed  the  question  of  ascendency  would  be  settled. 

A.  H.  Reeder,  the  first  governor  of  the  territory,  and  appointed  by  Presi 
dent  Pierce,  arrived  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  Oct.  6, 1854,  and  soon  after  visited 
Lawrence,  where  he  was  met  by  the  citizens,  and  was  welcomed  in  an  address 
by  Gen.  Pomeroy.  The  governor  stated  in  his  reply  that,  as  far  as  possible, 
he  should  maintain  law  and  order,  and  preserve  the  freedom  of  speech.  The 
first  election  of  a  delegate  to  congress  took  place  Nov.  29,  1854.  The  ter 
ritory  was  divided  into  nineteen  districts.  Gov.  Reeder,  who  resided  at 
Fort  Leavenworth,  appointed  election  judges,  and  gave  instructions  to  have 
the  vote  properly  taken.  It  appears,  however,  that  an  organized  body  of 
Missourians.  in  some  instances,  took  forcible  possession  of  the  polls,  and 
elected  Gen.  Whitfield  as  a  delegate.  In  the  election  for  the  territorial  leg- 
islature,  on  March  30,  1855,  large  organized  bodies  from  Missouri  controlled 
the  polls,  appointing  their  own  judges,  where  those  previously  appointed 
would  not  conform  to  their  wishes.  In  consequence  of  this,  every  district 
(with  one  exception)  returned  pro-slavery  men  to  the  prospective  legislature. 

The  legislature  met  on  the  2d  of  July,  at  Pawnee,  according  to  the  pro 
clamation  of  the  governor,  and  was  organized  by  the  election  of  D.  S.  String- 
fellow  as  speaker.  In  the  course  of  the  first  week  they  passed  an  act  re 
moving  the  seat  of  government  from  Pawnee  to  the  Shawnee  Manual  Labor 
School,  to  take  effect  from  and  after  its  passage:  they  also  passed  an  act 
adopting  the  laws  generally  of  Missouri  as  the  laws  of  Kansas.  On  the  6th 
of  July,  the  governor  vetoed  the  act  removing  the  seat  of  government.  It 
was,  however,  passed  over  his  veto  by  a  two  thirds  vote,  and  the  two  legis 
lative  houses  met  at  the  Shawnee  Mission  on  the  16th  of  July.  On  July 
25.  in  a  joint  session,  they  elected  the  various  county  officers  for  a  term  of 
six  years.  Various  other  extraordinary  and  unusual  acts  were  passed.*  A 
resolution  was  carried  declaring  the  incompetency  of  the  governor,  and  a 
memorial  was  dispatched  to  Washington  praying  for  his  removal. 

Gov.  Reeder  and  Judge  Elmer,  of  the  supreme  court,  having  been  removed  by 
the  general  government,  Wilson  Shannon,  an  ex-governor  of  Ohio,  was  appointed 
governor,  and  Judge  Moore,  of  Alabama,  succeeded  Judge  Elmer.  On  Sept.  5, 
1855,  a  free  state  convention  met  at  Big  Springs,  which  resolved  to  repudiate 
all  the  acts  passed  by  the  legislature  held  at  the  Shawnee  Mission.  On  the 

ter  was  obtained,  in  which  the  objects  of  the  society  were  declared  to  be  "  For  the  purposes, 
of  directing  emigration  westward,  and  aiding  in  providing  accommodations  for  the  emi 
grants  after  arriving  at  their  places  of  destination."  The  total  capital  was  about  $100,000. 
The  plan  was  to  give  fixed  centers  for  emigrants,  with  mills,  schools,  and  churches,  and 
thus  to  benefit  the  stockholders  by  the  opportunities  which  the  application  of  associated 
capital  would  give  in  the  rapid  rise  of  the  real  estate  around  these  centers.  Emigrants 
under  it  provided  their  own  expenses;  but  by  going  in  companies  had  the  advantages  of 
traveling  at  reduced  rates.  The  great  bulk  of  emigration  was  not,  however,  from  distant 
New  England,  but  from  the  hardy  population  of  the  north-west,  familiar  with  pioneer  life 
and  inured  to  its  hardships. 

*  "Among  their  labors  were  an  act  to  fix  the  seat  of  government  at  Lecompton  j  acts  mak 
ing  it  a  capital  offense  to  assist  slaves  in  escaping  either  into  the  territory  or  out  of  it,  and 
felony,-  punishable  with  imprisonment  at  hard  labor  from  two  to  five  years,  to  conceal  or 
aid  escaping  slaves,  to  circulate  anti-slavery  publications,  or  to  deny  the  right  to  hold  slaves 
in  the  territory  ;  an  act  giving  the  right  to  vote  to  all  persons  who  had  paid  a  poll  tax  of 
one  dollar,  whether  residents  or  not;  an  act  requiring  all  voters,  officers,  and  attorneys,  to 
take  an  oath  to  support  the  fugitive  slave  law  and  the  acts  of  this  legislature ;  and  an  act 
giving  the  selection  of  jurors  to  the  sheriff.  They  also  adopted  the  Missouri  laws  in  a 
heap." 

40 


KANSAS. 

19th  of  September,  a  convention  assembled  at  Topeka,  in  which  it  was  re 
solved  to  take  measures  to  form  a  state  constitution.  On  the  9th  of  Octo 
ber,  the  free  state  men  held  their  election,  allowing  no  nonresident  to  vote : 
2,400  votes  were  cast,  nearly  all  of  which  were  for  Gov.  Reeder  as  delegate 
to  congress.  They  also  elected  delegates  to  assemble  at  Topeka,  on  the 
fourth  Tuesday  of  the  same  month,  to  form  a  state  constitution.  This  con 
vention  met,  and  chose  Col.  James  Lane  its  president:  a  constitution  was 
formed  in  which  slavery  was  prohibited.  Immediately  after  the  adjourn 
ment  of  this  convention,  the  pro-slavery  party  called  a  "Law  and  Order  con 
vention,"  over  which  Gov.  Shannon  and  Judges  Lecompte  and  Elmer  pre 
sided,  in  which  the  Topeka  convention  was  denounced  as  a  treasonable 
assemblage. 

In  Nov.,  one  Coleman,  in  a  quarrel  about  a  land  claim,  killed  a  Mr.  Dow, 
a  free  state  settler,  at  Hickory  Point,  about  12  miles  from  Lawrence.  Cole 
man  then  proceeded  to  Lecompton,  to  Gov.  Shannon,  and  swore  a  complaint 
against  Branson,  at  whose  house  Dow  had  lodged,  that  Branson  had  threat 
ened  his  (Coleman's)  life.  Branson  was  thereupon  arrested  by  Sheriff  Jones, 
but  was  rescued  by  his  neighbors,  and  took  refuge  in  Lawrence.  These 
transactions  caused  great  excitement.  The  people  of  Lawrence  armed  as 
an  attack  was  threatened.  Gov.  Shannon  issued  his  proclamation,  stat 
ing  an  open  rebellion  had  commenced,  and  calling  for  assistance  to  carry  out 
the  laws :  this  was  circulated  through  the  border  counties  of  Missouri,  vol 
unteer  companies  were  raised,  and  nearly  1,800  men  crossed  over  from  Mis 
souri,  having  with  them  seven  pieces  of  cannon,  obtained  from  the  U.  S. 
arsenal  near  Liberty,  Mo.  This  formidable  array  encamped  at  Wakerusa,  over 
against  Lawrence,  which  was  now  threatened  with  destruction.  Gov.  Shan 
non,  Chief  Justice  Lecompte  and  David  R.  Atchison  accompanied  the  troops. 
For  more  than  a  week  the  invading  force  continued  encamped,  and  a  deadly 
conflict  seemed  imminent.  Fortunately  for  the  peace  of  the  country,  a  direct 
conflict  was  avoided  by  an  amicable  arrangement.  The  invading  army  re 
tired  from  Lawrence,  Dec.  9,  1855. 

In  Dec.,  1855,  the  Topeka  constitution  was  adopted  by  a  vote  of  the  peo 
ple,  and  state  officers  were  appointed.  On  Jan.  4,  1856,  in  a  message,  Gov. 
Shannon  indorsed  the  pro-slavery  legislature  and  code,  and  represented  th^ 
formation  of  the  Topeka  constitution  as  equivalent  to  an  act  of  rebellion 
This  was  followed  by  a  proclamation,  on  Feb.  4th,  directed  against  the  frer 
state  men,  and  on  the  strength  of  it,  indictments  for  treason  were  Ibum* 
against  Charles  Robinson,  Geo.  W.  Brown,  ex-Gov.  Reeder,  Gen.  Lane,  Geo 
W.  Deitzler,  and  others,  connected  with  the  formation  of  the  free  state  gov 
ernment.  Robinson,  Brown,  Deitzler,  and  many  others,  were  arrested  and 
imprisoned  at  Lecompton  during  the  entire  summer,  guarded  by  the  United 
States'  dragoons. 

In  March,  1856,  the  house  of  representatives,  at  Washington,  having  un 
der  consideration  the  conflicting  claims  of  Gov.  Reeder  and  Gov.  Whitfield 
to  represent  Kansas  in  congress,  appointed  a  commission  to  investigate  the 
fact.  This  committee  consisted  of  Howard,  of  Michigan,  Sherman,  of  Ohio, 
and  Oliver,  of  Missouri,  who,  being  directed  to  proceed  to  Kansas,  arrived 
at  Lawrence  on  the  17th  of  April.  While  in  Kansas  this  "congressional 
committee  of  investigation  "  collected  a  large  mass  of  testimony  which  went 
to  prove  that  frauds  had  been  perpetrated  by  the  pro-slavery  party  at  the 
ballot  box,  also  that  many  outrages  had  been  committed,  in  which  the  free 
state  settlers  were  principally  the  sufferers. 


KANSAS. 


627 


Early  in  April,  1856,  two  or  three  hundred  pro-slavery  men,  from  Georgia 
and  the  Carolines,  arrived  in  the  territory,  under  the  command  of  Maj.  Bu- 
ford,  of  Georgia.  On  the  24th  of  April,  Sheriff  Jones  entered  Lawrence 
and  arrested  several  free  state  men.  On  the  8th  of  May,  Gov.  Robinson, 
while  descending  the  Missouri  on  his  way  east,  was  seized  and  detained  at 
Lexington,  Mo.,  and  afterward  sent  back  to  Kansas  on  the  charge  of  treason. 
Gov.  Reeder  and  Gen.  Lane,  being  indicted  on  the  same  charge,  succeeded 
in  making  their  "scape  out  of  the  territory.  On  the  21st  of  May,  Sheriff 
Jones,  with  a  posse  of  some  four  or  five  hundred  men,  proceeded  to  Lawrence, 
ostensibly  for  the  purpose  of  executing  the  process  of  the  courts.  Several 
pieces  of  artillery  and  about  200  of  Sharp's  rifles  were  taken,  two  printing 
presses,  with  a  large  quantity  of  material,  were  destroyed,  and  the  Free 
State  Hotel  and  Dr.  Robinson's  mansion  were  burnt  as  nuisances.  On  the 
26th,  a  skirmish  occurred  at  Ossawatomie,  in  which  three  free  state  and  five 
pro-slavery  men  were  killed.  The  free  state  men  now  began  to  make  a  con 
certed  and  armed  resistance  to  the  pro-slavery  bands  which  were  spread  over 
the  country.  Parties  of  free  state  emigrants  coming  up  the  Missouri,  were 
turned  back,  and  forbid  entering  the  territory,  so  that  their  only  ingress  into 
Kansas  was  overland  through  Iowa.  For  months  civil  war  prevailed,  and 
the  settlers  were  distressed  by  robberies,  murders,  house  burnings,  the  de 
struction  of  crops,  and  other  atrocities. 

The  free  state  legislature,  according  to  the  time  fixed,  met  at  Topeka,  July 
4,  1856.  As  they  were  about  organizing  for  business.  Col.  Sumner  (who 
was  accompanied  by  a  body  of  U.  S.  dragoons),  went  into  the  hall,  and  claim 
ing  to  act  under  the  authority  of  the  president  of  the  United  States,  dispersed 
the  assemblage.  On  the  5th  of  Aug.,  a  body  of  men  from  Lawrence  marched 
against  a  post,  near  Ossawatomie,  occupied  by  a  company  of  marauders,  said 
to  be  Georgians.  After  a  conflict  of  three  hours,  the  post,  a  large  block 
house,  was  carried  with  a  loss  of  one  or  two  killed,  and  several  wounded  on 
both  sides.  Other  conflicts  took  place  in  other  places,  attended  with  loss  of 
life.  Gov.  Shannon  was  removed  early  in  August,  and  acting  Gov.  Wood- 
son,  on  the  25th  of  that  month,  issued  a  proclamation  declaring  the  territory 
in  a  state  of  rebellion. 

Gov.  Geary,  the  successor  of  Gov.  Shannon,  arrived  in  the  territory  about 
the  1st  of  Sept.,  and  by  proclamation  ordered  all  the  volunteer  militia  to  be 
discharged,  and  all  bodies  of  men  acting  without  the  authority  of  govern 
ment,  instantly  to  disband  or  quit  the  territory.  After  this  the  outrages  and 
skirmishes  rapidly  diminished,  and  order  was  gradually  restored. 

The  next  season,  the  pro-slavery  party,  at  a  convention  held  at  Lecomp- 
ton,  formed  a  state  constitution,  familiarly  known  as  the  Lecompton  Constitu 
tion,  and  in  the  session  of  1857—8,  applied  to  congress  for  admission  into  the 
Union.  Great  opposition  was  made  to  it  on  the  ground  that  the  convention 
which  formed  it  was  fraudulently  elected,  and  did  not  represent  the  will  of 
the  people,  as  it  was  favorable  to  slavery.  After  a  long  and  memorable 
struggle,  the  instrument  was  referred  to  the  people  of  Kansas,  on  the  4th  of 
Aug.,  1858.  They  rejected  it  by  a  vote  of  more  than  six  to  one — 11,300 
against  to  1,788  votes  in  favor. 

To  this  period  the  party  lines  in  Kansas  had  been  divided  between  the 
pro-slavery  and  the  free  state  men.  Soon  after,  these  distinctions  gave  place 
to  the  Democratic  and  Republican  parties.  The  next  territorial  legislature 
met  in  Jan.,  1859,  and  the  Republicans,  having  the  majority,  took  measures 
by  which  a  convention  met  at  Wyandot,  in  the  succeeding  July,  and  formed 


t"!f>8  KANSAS 

a  state  constitution,  known  aa  the  Wyandot  Constitution,  which  prohibited 
slavery.  This  constitution,  on  reference  to  the  people,  was  adopted  by  a 
large  majority.  The  lower  house  of  congress,  in  the  succeeding  session, 
1859-60,  passed  the  bill,  but  the  senate  failed  to  act  upon  it.  so  it  was  lost. 
Kansas,  therefore,  remained  in  a  territorial  condition  until  January  30th, 
1861,  when  it  was  admitted  as  a  free  state  of  the  Union.  The  severe 
contest  in  regard  to  the  institutions  of  Kansas  was  thus  closed,  only,  how 
ever,  to  give  place  to  a  more  terrible  struggle,  involving  the  whole  nation. 

Kansas  is  bounded  N.  by  Nebraska,  E.  by  Missouri,  S.  by  the  Indian  Ter 
ritory,  and  W.  by  Colorado  Territory.  It  extends  between  the  parallels  of 
37°  30'  and  40°  N.  Lat.,  and  94°  30'  and  102°  W.  Long. 


South  view  of  Fort  Leavenworth. 

The  view  is  taken  from  a  point  near  the  residence  of  the  Chaplain.  The  block -house,  whicn  appears 
near  the  central  part,  is  the  oldest  building  standing  in  Kansas.  It  is  pierced  for  musketry  and  cannon  ; 
the  lower  part  is  constructed  of  brick,  the  upper  of  logs,  etc.  The  barrack  buildings  appear  beyond  ;  th» 
Quartermaster's  building  is  seen  on  the  right. 

The  eastern  part  of  Kansas  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  sections 
of  country  found  in  the  United  States.  It  consists,  for  the  most  part,  of 
rolling  prairies,  having  a  deep,  rich  and  fertile  soil.  The  smooth  and  grace 
ful  hills,  covered  with  dense  vegetation,  extend  westward  from  the  Missouri 
about  200  miles,  having,  in  many  places,  the  appearance  of  a  vast  sea  of 
grass  and  flowers.  The  timber  is  principally  in  the  vicinity  of  the  rivers  and 
streams,  but  a  remarkable  provision  exists  in  the  abundance  of  limestone 
found  on  the  crest  of  all  the  elevations,  just  cropping  out  from  the  surface, 
hardly  interfering  with  vegetation.  This  is  admirably  adapted  for  buildings 
and  fences.  Numerous  coal  beds  are  said  to  abound. 

The  Kansas  or  Kaw  is  the  only  stream  of  importance  passing  into  the  in 
terior.  The  climate  is  healthy,  the  air  being  pure  and  dry.  The  winters  are 
usually  mild  and  open,  with  little  snow.  Kansas  possesses  very  superior  ad 
vantages  for  the  raising  of  cattle.  Almost  all  kinds  of  grain  and  fruits  can 
be  produced  in  great  abundance.  In  March,  1855,  the  population  was  esti 
mated,  in  round  numbers,  at  8,000;  a  year  later  it  was  estimated  at  60,000; 
in  1860,  it  was  107,110. 

FORT  LEAVENWORTH,  formerly  the  most  important  military  post  in  the 
United  States,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Missouri  River,  31  milea 


KANSAS. 


629 


above  the  mouth  of  Kansas  River,  and  4  miles  below  Weston,  Mo.  This  is 
the  oldest  fort  on  the  Missouri,  having  been  established  in  1827 :  it  ro- 
ceived  its  name  from  Col.  Leavenworth,  an  officer  of  distinction  in  the 
Niagara  campaign.  It  is  the  great  frontier  depot  for  other  military  posts  on 
the  Santa  Fe,  Utah  and  Oregon  routes,  and  the  general  rendezvous  for  troops 
proceeding  to  the  western  forts.  The  fort  stands  on  an  elevation  of  about 
150  feet,  and  about  150  yards  back  from  the  steamboat  landing.  Several 
thousand  acres  of  fine  land  in  the  vicinity  are  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  force 
at  this  point. 


South-eastern  view  of  Leavenworth  City. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  the  city  as  seen  from  the  Missouri  side  of  the  river.  The  Market 
House  and  Theater  building,  surmounted  by  a  flag,  is  shown  on  the  left ;  and  the  Planters'  House,  the 
Steamboat  and  Steam  Ferry  Landings  on  the  right. 

On  some  occasions,  as  many  as  1,000  laborers  and  artisans  have  been  em 
ployed  here  in  the  government  service  at  one  time.  The  buildings  consist 
of  the  barracks,  magazines,  the  officers'  houses,  hospital,  the  quartermaster's 
Building,  and  others.  General  Persifer  F.  Smith,  the  commander  of  the 
Utah  expedition,  died  here  on  Sunday  evening,  May  16,  1858:  his  remains 
were  taken  east  for  burial.  The  government  has  a  small  chapel  here,  in 
which  the  Rev.  Leander  Ker,  of  Scotch  descent,  officiates  as  chaplain  of  the 
post.  Mr.  Ker  likewise  has  the  charge  of  a  school  of  30  or  40  children,  the 
books,  stationery,  etc.,  being  furnished  by  the  government. 

During  the  difficulties  with  Utah,  in  1858,  the  transportation  establish 
ment  of  the  army,  under  Russell  &  Waddell,  the  contractors,  between  the 
fort  and  the  city,  was  the  great  feature  of  this  vicinity,  with  its  acres  of 
wagons,  herds  of  oxen,  and  regiments  of  drivers  and  other  employees.  This 
firm  had  millions  of  dollars  invested  in  the  business,  employed  six  thpvsaa  I 
teamsters,  and  worked  forty-Jive  thousand  oxen. 


LEAVENWORTH  CITY,  on  the  W.  bank  of  Missouri  River,  the  largest  town 
and  commercial  metropolis  of  Kansas,  is  3  miles  below  the  fort,  37  N.K 
from  Lawrence.  70  S.  from  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  and  by  the  Missouri  River  495 


630  KANSAS. 

from  St.  Louis.  Several  daily  and  weekly  newspapers  are  published  here. 
Leavenworth  city  was  founded  in  the  autumn  of  1854.  Previous  to  this  it 
was  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  forest  trees,  the  hunting  ground  for  the 
officers  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  traversed  by  wolves,  wildcats,  wild  turkeys, 
and  deer.  The  first  building  was  a  frame  shanty,  erected  in  1834,  near 
which  is  an  elm  tree,  under  which  the  first  number  of  the  "  Kansas  Weekly 
Herald  "  was  printed,  in  September,  1854.  The  first  printer  was  General 
Lucius  Eastin,  of  Kentucky.  The  first  public  house  was  the  Leavenworth 
Hotel :  the  Planters'  House  was  erected  in  1856.  Rev.  Mr.  Martin,  0.  S. 
Presbyterian,  was  among  the  first  clergymen  who  preached  in  the  place. 
Population  about  15,000. 

Wyandot  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  at  the  mouth  of 
Kansas  River,  37  miles  below  Leavenworth  City,  and  35  miles  east  of  Law 
rence.  It  is  a  new,  beautiful  and  flourishing  place,  regularly  laid  out  on 
ground  rising  gracefully  from  the  water.  Being  built  on  the  curve  of  the 
river,  it  is  in  full  view  of  Kansas  City,  in  Missouri,  from  which  by  water  it 
is  about  a  mile  distant,  and  two  miles  by  land  ;  a  steam  ferry-boat  plies  be 
tween  the  two  places.  It  is  a  busy  town,  and  the  outlet  between  southern 
Kansas  and  the  Missouri  River.  At  Wyandot  commences  the  great  Pa 
cific  Railroad.  Population  about  3,000. 

Atchison,  46  miles  above  Leavenworth,  on  the  Missouri  River,  is,  next  to 
Leavenworth,  the  largest  town  in  Kansas,  with  a  population  estimated  in 
1865  at  8,000.  Here  daily  start  the  overland  stages  for  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains.  A  railroad  has  been  commenced,  leading  hence  to  connect  with  the 
South  Pacific  on  the  Republican  Fork.  When  the  grass  starts  up  in  the 
spring,  the  place  is  so  thronged  with  the  teams  of  overland  emigrants  one 
can  scarcely  cross  the  streets. 


LAWRENCE,  the  county  seat  of  Douglas  county,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  Kansas  River.  45  miles  W.  from  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  and  12 
from  Lecompton.  The  Eldridge  Souse,  100  by  117  feet,  is  at  this  time  by 
far  the  finest  building  in  Kansas.  Mount  Oread  is  about  half  a  mile  S.W. 
of  the  Eldridge  House.  On  this  elevation  it  is  in  contemplation  to  build  a 
college:  the  view  from  this  location,  embracing  a  space  of  from  50  to  70 
miles  in  circumference,  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  Population  about  5,000. 

Lawrence  received  its  name  from  Amos  A.  Lawrence,  of  Boston,  Mass. 
In  July,  1854,  a  company  of  24  persons,  principally  from  New  England, 
came  up  the  Missouri  River  to  Kansas  City,  and  from  thence  traveling  by 
land,  located  themselves  on  the  site  of  Lawrence,  the  spot  having  been  selected 
by  Chas.  H.  Branscomb,  agent  of  the  Massachusetts  Aid  Society.  In  Sep 
tember  following,  a  second  company  of  about  70  persons  arrived.  These 
two  companies  of  pioneers  held  their  first  regular  meeting  Sept.  16,  1854, 
being  called  to  order  by  Dr.  Robinson.  A.  H.  Mallory  was  chosen  presi 
dent,  C.  S.  Pratt,  secretary,  and  a  committee  of  six  to  manage  the  affairs  of 
the  company,  viz:  J.  Doy,  J.  F.  Morgan,  A.  H.  Mallory,  J.  N.  Nace,  G.  L.  Os- 
borne  and  L.  P.  Lincoln.  On  Sept.. 20,  1854,  at  a  meeting  of  the  "Law 
rence  Association,"  the  following  persons  were  chosen  officers,  viz:  Dr.  Chas. 
Robinson,  president;  Ferd.  Fuller,  vice  president;  Caleb  S.  Pratt,  secretary; 
Levi  Gates,  jr.,  treasurer;  Erastus  D.  Ladd,  register;  A.  D.  Searl,  surveyor; 
John  Mailley,  Owen  Taylor,  John  Bruce,  jr.,  arbitrators;  and  Joel  Grover, 
marshal. 


KANSAS. 


631 


Very  soon  after  their  arrival,  the  settlers  were  visited  by  a  body  of  150 
Missouri  borderers,  ordered  to  strike  their  tents,  and  leave  the  territory  to 
return  no  more.  But  this  the  people  declining,  the  borderers  left,  and  com 
menced  the  organization  of  "Blue  Lodges,"  to  foster  pro-slavery  emigration. 


Northern  view  of  Lawrence. 

The  view  shows  the  appearance  of  Lawrence  as  seen  from  the  opposite  bank  of  Kansas  River,  having 
the  eye  slightly  elevated.  The  Eldridge  Hotel,  on  Massachusetts-street,,  is  seen  on  the  right.  A  log 
cabin,  the  first  structure  in  Lawrence,  is  shown  near  the  bank.  The  passage  down  the  bank  to  the  ferry, 
with  the  Whitney  and  Waverly  Houses  above,  appear  on  the  left. 

Lawrence  and  Leavenworth  were  the  first  towns  located  in  Kansas.  Some 
time  in  the  summer  of  1854,  Clark  Stearns,  of  Missouri,  squatted  at  this 
place  and  erected. a  log  cabin,  the  first  structure  built  here  (still  standing  at 
the  head  of  Massachusetts-street).  It  is  stated  that  the  Lawrence  Company 
intended  to  have  passed  on  to  the  Big  Blue  River,  at  Manhattan,  some  60 
miles  above.  Having  arrived  near  this  spot,  some  of  the  company  rode 
their  horses  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Oread,  to  find  a  suitable  place  to  en 
camp  during  the  night.  Discovering  Stearns'  cabin,  and  being  charmed  with 
the  appearance  of  the  country,  they  determined  to  stop  here,  and  accord 
ingly  encamped  on  the  present  site  of  the  Eldridge  Hotel. 

The  first  meeting  for  public  worship  was  held  in  a  building  constnu-te'l 
of  long  poles  united  at  the  top,  intertwined  with  sticks,  twigs,  hay,  etc.,  and 
then  sodded  over.  This  was  on  the  first  Sunday  after  the  arrival  of  the  com 
pany.  Erastus  D.  Ladd,  of  New  England  origin,  read  a  sermon  on  the 
occasion.  The  first  school  was  kept  by  Edward  P.  Fitch,  of  Massachusetts. 
The  first  framed  building  was  erected  by  Rev.  S.  Y.  Lum,  of  New  Jersey, 
the  first  regular  preacher  and  agent  of  the  Home  Missionary  Society.  The 
Free  State  Hotel  (afterward  burnt),  the  first  in  the  placa,  was  built  by  the 


632 


KANSAS. 


Emigrant  Aid  Society,  and  was  kept  by  Col.  Eldridge.  The  first  newspaper, 
"The  Herald  of  Freedom"  was  issued  in  the  fall  of  1854,  by  G.  TV.  Brown, 
from  Pennsylvania.  The  first  merchants'  shops  were  opened  by  C.  L.  Pratt 
and  Norman  Allen,  on  Massachusetts -street.  The  first  ferryman  was  Wm. 
N.  Baldwin. 

Lawrence  will  ever  be  a  memorable  spot  as  having  been  the  head-quarters 
of  the  free  state  settlers  during  the  "Kansas  War:"  it  was  particularly  ob 
noxious  to  the' contrary  party,  on  account  of  the  free  soil  sentiments  of  the 
inhabitants.  On  the  llth  of  May,  1856,  Marshal  Donaldson,  in  order  to 
arrest  several  obnoxious  free  state  men,  summoned  a  posse,  took  the  Georgia 
emigrants,  under  Maj.  Bufordr  under  pay,  together  with  several  hundred 
others.  Having  proceeded  to  Lawrence,  he  announced  his  determination  to 
make  arrests.  The  citizens,  in  a  public  meeting,  denied  the  charge  of  hav 
ing  resisted  the  authorities  of  the  territory.  On  the  morning  of  the  21st  of 
May,  a  body  of  about  500  men  came  from  the  camp,  near  Lecompton.  and 
halted  on  Mount  Oread,  in  Lawrence,  near  the  residence  of  Gov.  Robinson. 
They  were  headed  by  the  U.  S.  Marshal  Donaldson,  who  claimed  the  assem 
bled  force  as  his  posse,  they  having  responded  to  his  late  proclamation.  They 
formed  in  line  facing  the  north-east,  and  planted  two  cannon  in  range  with 
the  Free  State  Hotel  and  other  large  buildings  in  Massachusetts-street. 
About  noon,  the  marshal,  with  a  posse  of  ten  men,  arrested  G.  W.  Deitzler, 
Col.  Jenkins,  Judge  Smith,  and  some  others,  taking  them  as  prisoners  to 
their  camp.  About  3  o'clock,  P.  M.,  Sheriff  Jones,  accompanied  by  about 
twenty-five  armed  horsemen,  rode  up  to  the  door  of  the  Free  State  Hotel  and 
stopped.  Gen  Pomeroy,  and  several  others,  went  out  to  meet  him.  The 
sheriff  demanded  that  all  the  arms  be  given  up  to  him,  and  said  he  would 
give  them  one  hour  for  this  purpose.  Pomeroy  then,  after  some  consultation 
with  the  committee,  delivered  up  several  pieces  of  artillery.  The  U.  S.  Mar- 
vshal  Donaldson  having  dismissed  his  posse,  they  moved  their  two  field  pieces 
into  Massachusetts-street,  and  were  immediately  summoned  to  the  spot  to  act 
as  the  sheriff's  posse.  The  sheriff  then  gave  information  that  the  Free  State 
Hotel  had  been  presented  by  the  grand  jury  of  Douglas  county  as  a  nuisance, 
together  with  the  two  newspapers,  the  Herald  of  Freedom  and  Free  State, 
and  that  Judge  Lecompte  wished  them  removed.  A  lone  star  flag  having 
for  a  motto  '-'Southern  Rights"  was  thereupon  raised  over  these  offices,  the 
presses  destroyed,  and  the  type  thrown  into  the  river.  An  attempt  was  next 
made  to  batter  down  the  hotel  by  cannon  shot,  but  not  succeeding,  it  was  set 
on  tire  and  reduced  to  ashes.  After  this,  several  private  houses  were  robbed, 
and  money,  clothing,  and  other  articles  were  pillaged.  During  the  night  fol 
lowing,  the  house  of  Gov.  Robinson,  on  Mount  Oread,  having  a  valuable 
library,  was  set  on  fire  and  consumed.  The  total  damage  to  property  in 
Lawrence  was  estimated  at  $150,000. 

During  the  summer,  until  late  in  the  fall,  civil  war  raged  in  the  territory, 
many  murders  and  other  atrocities  being  committed.  On  the  14th  of  Sept., 
an  army  of  2,500  Missourians,  arranged  in  three  regiments,  with  five  pieces 
ot  artillery,  appeared  before  Lawrence,  with  threats  of  destruction  to  the 
town.  The  people  threw  up  breastworks,  and  made  hasty  preparations  for 
defense,  but  they  must  have  been  overwhelmed  in  case  of  attack.  This  was 
averted  by  the  interference  of  Gov.  Geary,  with  a  body  of  U.  S.  dragoons, 
who  threw  himself  between  the  conflicting  parties,  and  prevailed  upon  the 
AUssouriaus  to  retire  to  their  homes. 


KANSAS. 


633 


LECOMPTON  is  a  village  of  about  600  inhabitants:  it  has  a  Methodist 
church  and  several  land  offices,  and  is  some  twelve  miles  westward  of  Law 
rence,  and  35  from  Leavenworth.  The  capital  was  located  here  in  August, 
1855,  by  the  territorial  legislature.  A  fine  capitol  building  has  been  com 
menced,  the  foundations  laid  and  part  of  the  first  story  reared,  but  owing  to 
the  failure  of  obtaining  the  necessary  appropriations,  the  building  has  been 
suspended. 


Northern  view  at  Lecompton. 

The  long  building  seen  in  the  central  part  of  the  view  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  in  the  upper  story  of  which 
the  noted  Lecompton  Constitution  was  formed.  The  lower  storj1,  and  most  of  the  oth  -r  buildings  repre 
sented,  are  used  for  land  offices. 

The  site  of  this  place  was  taken  up  by  Thomas  Simmons  and  his  son  Wil 
liam,  in  the  fall  of  1854;  in  the  spring  of  1855,  it  was  purchased  of  them 
by  a  company,  consisting;  of  Judge  Lecompte,  of  Maryland,  Daniel  Wood- 
son,  secretary,  from  Virginia,  C.  B.  Donaldson,  from  Illinois,  John  A.  Haider- 
man,  from  Kentucky,  private  secretary  of  Gov.  Reeder,  Samuel  J.  Jones, 
sheriff,  from  Virginia,  and  Dr.  Aristedes  Rodrique,  from  Pennsylvania.  The 
town  was  then  laid  out,  on  the  grounds  rising  from  the  river,  covered  with 
forest  trees,  many  of  which  still  remain. 

The  first  structure  erected  here  was  Simmons'  log  cabin,  still  standing 
about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  back  from  the  river;  the  next  was  a  log  cabin 
built  on  the  river  bank,  under  the  direction  of  Sheriff  Jones.  The  first 
framed  house  here  was  put  up  by  Samuel  J.  Cramer,  from  Virginia.  Rev. 
Mr.  Prichard,  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South,  delivered  the  first 
sermon  in  this  place,  over  a  grocery  store,  while,  it  is  said,  a  company  were 
playing  cards  below.  Dr.  Rodrique  was  the  first  physician.  The  first  house 
of  entertainment  was  kept  on  the  bank  of  the  river  by  a  Mrs.  Sipes.  Part 
of  the  building  now  fitted  up  as  a  hotel,  by  Maj.  Barnes,  was  used  as  a  place 
of  confinement  for  the  free  state  prisoners  arrested  after  the  battle  of  Hick 
ory  Point,  in  the  fall  of  1856,  by  the  United  States  dragoons.  One  hundred 
and  one  of  these  were  confined  here  nearly  three  months,  guarded  by  two 
companies  of  militia,  under  Col.  Titus,  being  occasionally  relieved  by  the  U. 


634 


KANSAS. 


S.  troops.  Of  these  prisoners,  33  were  from  states  east  of  Ohio;  (>  from 
Missouri ;  and  77  from  the  free  states  of  the  north-west.  Twenty  of  them 
were  convicted,  in  Judge  Lecompte's  court,  of  manslaughter.  They  were 
subsequently  removed  to  Tecumseh,  and  after  a  tedious  confinement  in  prison 
liberated. 

The  first  legislative  assembly,  in  accordance  with  the  proclamation  of  Gov. 
Reeder,  met  at  Pawnee,  near  Fort  Riley,  but  having  to  camp  out,  they  ad 
journed  to  the  Shawnee  Mission.  This  act  was  vetoed  by  the  governor,  but 
the  assembly  passed  it  over  his  head.  The  next  legislative  assembly  met  in 
the  Masonic  Hall,  in  Lecompton,  and  it  was  in  this  building  that  the  cele 
brated  Lecompton  Constitution,  the  subject  of  so  much  political  discussion, 
was  formed.  The  council  sat  in  the  building  later  occupied  by  Gov.  Denver, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street. 


TOPEKA,  for  a  time  the  free  state  capital  of  Kansas,  is  on  the  S.  side  of 
Kansas  River,  25  miles  westward  from  Lawrence,  and  55  in  a  direct  line 
from  Leavenworth  City.  It  contains  two  or  three  churches,  the  Constitu 
tional  Hall,  etc.,  and  about  1,000  inhabitants.  A  bridge  was  built,  at  an  ex 
pense  of  about  $15,000,  over  the  Kansas  River,  at  this  place,  and  finished  in 
May,  1858.  It  was,  however,  soon  after  swept  down  by  the  great  freshet  of 
that  year. 

"Topeka"  is  an  Indian  word,  signifying  "wild  potato",  or  "potato  bottom," 
the  place  where  they  grow.  This  root,  which  is  about  as  large  as  a  man's 
thumb,  is  found  along  the  bottom  lands  of  Kansas  River,  and  is  used  by  the 
Indians  as  food.  The  foundation  of  Topeka  was  laid  Dec.  4,  1854,  by  a  num 
ber  of  settlers,  who  came  here  from  Lawrence.  The  company  consisted  of 
C.  K.  Halliday.  from  Pennsylvania;  M.  C.  Dickey,  New  Hampshire;  Enoch 
Chase,  Jacob  B.  Chase  and  Geo.  Davis,  from  Massachusetts;  L.  G.  Cleve 
land,  from  Iowa;  Frye  W.  Giles,  from  Illinois;  D.  H.  Home  and  S.  A. 
Clark.  Having  formed  themselves  into  the  "Topeka  Association,"  C.  K. 
Halliday  was  chosen  president. 

The  first  building  raised  here  was  a  log  cabin  now  standing  near  the  ferry 
or  bridge,  13  by  11  feet  inside.  The  earth  inside  was  covered  by  prairie 
grass  or  hay,  when  twenty-four  persons  lodged  within,  lying  on  the  ground: 
while  the  twenty-fifth  man  stretched  himself  on  a  load  of  hay  on  the 
outside.  The  first  building  was  burnt  on  the  first  evening  of  its  occu 
pancy.  The  company,  during  the  winter  of  1854-5,  slept  in  their  clothes, 
boots,  etc.  Their  food  was  principally  mush,  on  which  they  were  kept  in  a 
healthy  condition.  Rev.  S.  Y.  Lum,  a  congregationalist  minister,  preached 
the  first  sermon  in  Topeka,  in  the  log  cabin.  The  second  place  of  public 
worship  was  in  a  small  building  constructed  of  clapboards,  now  standing  on 
the  premises  of  Col.  Halliday.  The  first  school  was  under  Miss  Harlan,  now 
Mrs.  J.  F.  Cummings,  in  a  "shake"  building,  a  few  yards  from  Col.  Halli 
day 's  house.  The  first  regular  house  of  entertainment  was  kept  by  Mrs.  A. 
W.  Moore,  near  the  first  log  cabin.  In  Nov.,  1855,  W.  W.  Ross,  of  Ohio, 
established  the  first  newspaper  here-,  called  the  "  Kansas  Tribune,"  some  30 
numbers  of  which  had  been  previously  issued  in  Lawrence. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  1856,  the  state  assembly,  under  the  Topeka  constitu 
tion,  consisting  of  representatives  from  all  parts  of  the  territory,  met  at  the 
Constitutional  Hall,  in  Topeka.  Free  state  men,  to  the  number  of  some 
1,000  or  1,500,  assembled  here  at  the  time,  and  were  encamped  about  the 


KANSAS. 


635 


town.  Some  600  or  800  were  considered  as  regular  militia  volunteers,  and 
were  under  the  command  of  Col.  C.  K.  Halliday.  At  this  period,  such  was 
the  state  of  the  times,  that  most  of  the  settlers  went  armed,  even  about 
their  daily  avocations.  The  U.  S.  force  at  this  time,  under  the  command 
of  Colonel  Sumner,  consisted  of  some  seven  hundred  dragoons  and  flying 
artillery,  from  Forts  Leavenworth  and  Riley.  In  addition  to  this,  it  is  stated 
that  about  2,000  armed  men,  ostensibly  gathered  in  various  places  to  cele 
brate  the  4th  of  July,  were  ready  to  march  and  "wipe  out"  Topeka,  should 
there  be  any  resistance  made  to  the  United  States  authorities. 


Northern  view  of  the  Bridge,  etc.,  at  Topeka. 

The  view  was  taken  a  short  time  after  the  completion  of  the  bridge,  the  first  ever  built  over  Kansas  River. 
Part  of  the  village  of  Topeka  is  seen  in  the  distance  on  the  right.  The  log  cabin  near  the  bridge  Is  the 
first  building  erected  in  the  place.  \ 

The  state  assembly  met  at  12  o'clock  at  noon,  at  the  Constitutional  Hall, 
the  lower  story  of  which  was  occupied  by  the  house  of  representatives,  the 
upper  by  the  senate.  Col.  Sumner,  with  a  body  of  about  200  dragoons  and 
a  company  of  artillery,  now  came  into  the  place,  and  having  planted  two 
cannon  at  the  head  of  the  avenue,  with  lighted  matches  in  hand,  rode  up  to 
the  hall,  arranging  his  troops  in  a  semi-circular  line  in  front.  At  this  time 
a  company  of  free  state  volunteers  were  assembled,  and  were  in  the  act  of 
receiving  a  silk  banner  from  a  collection  of  young  ladies,  one  of  whom  was 
then  standing  at  the  door  of  the  Constitutional  Hall,  making  the  presenta 
tion  address.  The  dragoons  having  rather  overridden  the  volunteers,  the 
assemblage  was  broken  up.*  Col.  Sumner,  dismounting,  entering  the  repre 
sentative  hall,  accompanied  by  Marshal  Donaldson.  At  this  time,  the  speaker 
being  temporarily  absent,  S.  F.  Tappan,  the  clerk,  was  calling  the  roll.  Col. 
Sumner  advanced,  took  possession  of  the  speaker's  chair,  and  stated  that  he 
was  obliged  to  perform  the  most  painful  duty  of  his  life,  that  he  had  rather 
spend  the  whole  of  it  in  opposing  the  enemies  of  his  country,  than  to  per 
form  that  single  act,  which  was,  "by  authority  vested  in  him  by  the  presi- 

*Col.  S.  afterward  made  an  apology  to  the  company  assembled  on  the  occasion. 


636  KANSAS. 

dent  of  the  United  States,  now  to  command  the  body  here  assembled,  calling 
itself  the  legislature  of  Kansas,  to  disperse."  Judge  Schuyler,  addressing 
the  colonel,  asked,  "Are  we  to  understand  that  we  are  to  be  driven  out  at 
the  point  of  the  bayonet?"  "I  give  you  to  understand,"  replied  Sunnier, 
"  that  all  the  force  under  my  command  will  be  put  under  requisition  to  carry 
out  my  orders;  I  again  command  you  to  disperse"  The  house  then  dispersed. 
As  Suiiiner  was  passing  out,  he  was  informed  that  the  senate  was  in  session 
in  the  chamber  above.  Just  as  he  entered,  the  chair  was  taken  by  Thomas 
G.  Thornton,  president  pro  tem.,  with  the  view  of  calling  the  senate  to  order. 
Col.  S.  then  informed  them  of  what  he  had  done  below,  and  that  he  wished 
to  know  their  intentions.  Mr.  Thornton  replied  that  the  senate  not  being 
organized,  he  could  give  no  answer,  but  if  he  would  wait  until  they  were  so, 
one  would  be  given.  Col.  S.  rejoined,  that  his  object  was  to  prevent  an  or 
ganization.  After  some  desultory  conversation,  the  assemblage  dispersed. 


Ossaivatomie  is  on  the  Osage,  at  its  confluence  with  Pottawatomie  Creek, 
42  miles  S.E.  from  Lawrence,  and  28  from  the  Missouri  line.  The  most 
severe  conflict  in  the  Kansas  War  took  place  here,  on  the  31st  of  August, 
1856.  About  300  pro-slavery  men,  under  Capt.  Reid,  of  Missouri,  marched 
with  a  field  piece  upon  the  town,  their  line  extending,  in  battle  order,  from 
river  to  river,  across  the  prairie  westward  of  the  place.  The  inhabitants 
mustered  about  40  men  in  defense,  under  Capt.  John  Brown,  who  took  to 
the  timber,  and  fighting  Indian  fashion,  from  the  shelter  of  the  trees,  kept 
their  enemy  on  the  open  plain  for  some  time  at  bay,  until  their  ammunition 
failing,  most  of  them  effected  their  retreat  across  the  river.  Their  women 
and  children  escaped  to  the  woods  on  the  south.  Their  village,  consisting 
of  about  30  houses,  was  plundered  and  then  laid  in  ashes,  being  the  second 
time  it  had  been  thus  destroyed  by  the  pro-slavery  forces.  "Old  Brown," 
the  free  soil  leader,  sometimes  called  "Ossawatomie  Brown,"  lost  one  of  his 
sons  on  this  occasion.  Becoming  fanatical  on  the  subject  of  slavery,  he  after 
this  engaged  in  running  off  slaves  from  Missouri  to  Canada,  and  finally  be 
came  a  historical  character  by  a  conviction  for  treason,  and  a  termination  of 
his  career  on  the  gallows,  at  Harpers  Ferry. 

Grasshopper  Falls  is  about  30  miles  N.W.  of  Lawrence.  It  has  several 
mills  and  the  best  water  power  north  of  Kansas  River.  Fort  Riley  is  a  mil 
itary  post  at  the  junction  of  the  two  main  branches  of  the  Kansas,  which,  in 
high  water,  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  to  this  point.  Manhattan  and 
Waubonsee  are  two  thriving  towns  in  that  vicinity.  The  latter  was  colonized 
from  New  Haven,  Conn.;  and  by  the  identical  party  to  whom  Sharps  rifles 
were  subscribed  at  a  meeting  in  a  church.  One  of  them  was  a  deacon  in 
the  church,  and  among  the  donors  were  clergymen,  professors  of  science, 
lady  principals  of  female  seminaries,  and  others  of  quiet  callings  and  anti- 
pugnacious  tendencies. 

St.  Marys,  on  Kansas  River,  51  miles  below  Fort  Riley,  is  an  important 
and  flourishing  Catholic  missionary  establishment  among  the  Pottawatomies, 
and  the  mission  buildings,  the  trading  houses,  with  the  Indian  improvements, 
give  it  quite  the  appearance  of  a  town. 

The  Catholic  Osage  Mission,  on  the  Neosho  River,  45  miles  from  Fort 
Scott,  is  one  of  the  largest  missions  and  schools  in  Kansas.  It  was  com- 


KANSAS. 


637 


menced  in  1847 ;  Rev.  John  Schoenmaker  was  the  first  superior  of  this  mis 
sion.  Sermons  are  preached  in  Osage  and  English.  Attached  to  this  mis 
sion  is  a  manual  labor  school  for  boys,  under  the  direction  of  the  fathers. 
There  are  ten  missionary  stations  at  as  many  Indian  villages,  within  sixty 
miles,  attended  mostly  from  this  mission.  In  1853,  the  Quapaw  school,  by 
the  direction  of  the  U.  S.  government,  was  transferred  to  this  mission. 

The  Shawnee  Mission,  under  the  direction  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  South,  is  about  8  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Kansas  River,  and  3  from 
Westport,  Mo.  It  has  very  superior  buildings,  and  a  manual  labor  school. 
The  Friends'  Shawnee  Labor  School  is  3  miles  W.  from  the  Methodist  mis 
sion.  It  has  been  in  operation  more  than  fifty  years,  including  the  period 
before  their  arrival.  The  Baptist  Shawnee  Mission  is  2  miles  N.W.  from  the 
Methodist  School.  The  Kickapoo  Mission  is  on  Missouri  River,  4  miles 
above  Fort  Leavenworth;  the  Iowa  and  Sac  Mission  School  is  just  south  of 
the  northern  line  of  Kansas,  about  26  miles  N.W.  of  St.  Joseph.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  established  as  early  as  1837. 

Council  Grove  is  a  noted  stopping  place  on  the  Santa  Fe  road,  S.  from  Fort 
Riley,  containing  several  trading  houses  and  shops,  and  a  missionary  estab 
lishment  and  school. 

Council  City,  a  tract  nine  miles  square,  recently  laid  out  on  a  branch  of 
the  Osage,  is  in  a  S.W.  course  from  Lawrence. 


MISCELLANIES. 

The  following  narrative  of  a  visit  to  the  Kansas  Indians,  is  from  the  work 

of  P.  J.  De 
Smet,  a  Catho 
lic  missionary, 
who  was  sent 
by  the  bishop 
of  St.  Louis,  in 
1840,  on  an  ex 
ploring  expedi- 
t  i  o  n  to  the 
Rocky  Moun 
tains,  to  ascer 
tain  the  spirit- 
11  a  1  condition 
of  the  Indians, 
etc.: 

W  e     started 
from     Westport 

on  the  10th  of  May,  and  after  having  passed  by  the  lands  of  the  Shawnees  and 
Delawares,  where  we  saw  nothing  remarkable  but  the  college  of  the  Methodists, 
built,  it  is  easy  to  divine  for  what,  where  the  soil  is  richest;  we  arrived  after  five 
days'  march  on  the  banks  of  the  Kansas  River,  where  we  found  those  of  our  com 
panions,  who  had  traveled  by  water,  with  a  part  of  our  baggage.  Two  of  the  rela 
tives  of  the  grand  chief  had  come  twenty  miles  from  that  place  to  meet  us,  one  of 
whom  helped  our  horses  to  pass  the  river  in  safety,  by  swimming  before  them,  and 
the  other  announced  our  arrival  to  the  principal  men  of  the  tribe  who  waited  for 
us  on  the  opposite  bank.  Our  baggage,  wagons  and  men  crossed  in  a  pirogue, 
which,  at  a  distance,  looked  like  one  of  those  gondolas  that  glide  through  th« 


KANSAS  VILLAOS. 
Engraved  from  a  view  in  De  Smet's  Sketches. 


638  KANSAS 

streets  of  Venice.  As  soon  as  the  Kansas  understood  that  we  were  going  to  en 
camp  on  the  banks  of 'the  Soldier's  River,  which  is  only  six  miles  from  the  village, 
they  galloped  rapidly  away  from  our  caravan,  disappearing  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  so 
that  we  had  scarcely  pitched  our  tents  when  the  great  chief  presented  himself, 
with  six  of  his  bravest  warriors,  to  bid  us  welcome.  After  having  made  mo  sit 
down  on  a  mat  spread  on  the  ground,  he,  with  much  solemnity,  took  from  his  pocket 
a  portfolio  containing  the  honorable  titles  that  gave  him  a  right  to  our  friendship, 
and  placed  them  in  my  hands.  I  read  them,  and  having,  with  the  tact  of  a  man 
accustomed  to  the  etiquette  of  savage  life,  furnished  him  with  the  means  of  smok 
ing  the  calumet,  he  made  us  accept  for  our  guard  the  two  braves  -who  had  come 
to  meet  us.  .Both  were  armed  like  warriors,  one  carrying  a  lance  and  a  buckler, 
and  the  other  a  bow  and  arrows,  with  a  naked  sword  and  a  collar  made  of  the 
claws  of  four  bears  which  he  had  killed  with  his  own  hand.  These  two  braves  re 
mained  faithful  at  their  post  during  the  three  days  and  three  nights  that  we  had  to 
wait  the  coming  up  of  the  stragglers  of  the  caravan.  A  small  present,  which  we 
made  them  at  our  departure,  secured  us  their  friendship. 

On  the  19th  we  continued  our  journey  to  the  number  of  seventy  souls,  fifty  of 
whom  were  capable  of  managing  the  rifle — a  force  more  than  sufficient  to  under 
take  with  prudence  the  long  march  we  had  to  make.  Whilst  the  rest  of  our  com 
pany  inclined  to  the  west,  Father  Point,  a  young  Englishman  and  myself  turned 
to  the  left,  to  visit  the  nearest  village  of  our  hosts.  At  the  first  sight  of  their  wig 
wams,  we  were  struck  at  the  resemblance  they  bore  to  the  large  stacks  of  wheat 
which  cover  our  fields  in  harvest  time.  There  were  of  these  in  all  no  more  than 
about  twenty,  grouped  together  without  order,  but  each  covering  a  space  of  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  circumference,  and  sufficient  to  shelter  from  thirty 
to  forty  persons.  The  entire  village  appeared  to  us  to  consist  of  from  seven  to 
eight  hundred  souls — an  approximation  which  is  justified  by  the  fact  that  the  total 
population  of  the  tribe  is  confined  to  two  villages,  together  numbering  1,900  in 
habitants.  These  cabins,  however  humble  they  may  appear,  are  solidly  built,  and 
convenient.  From  the  top  of  the  wall,  which  is  about  six  feet  in  hight,  rise  in 
clined  poles,  which  terminate  round  an  opening  above,  serving  at  once  for  chimney 
and  window.  The  door  of  the  edifice  consists  of  an  undressed  hide  on  the  most 
sheltered  side,  the  hearth  occupies  the  center  and  is  in  the  midst  of  four  upright 
posts  destined  to  support  the  rotunda;  the  beds  are  ranged  around  the  wall  and  the 
space  between  the  beds  and  the  hearth  is  occupied  by  the  members  of  the  familv, 
some  standing,  others  sitting  or  lying  on  skins,  or  yellow  colored  mats.  It  would 
seem  that  this  last  named  article  is  regarded  as  an  extra  piece  of  finery,  for  the 
lodge  assigned  to  us  had  one  of  them. 

As  for  dress,  manners,  religion,  modes  of  making  war,  etc.,  the  Kansas  are  like 
the  savages  of  their  neighborhood,  with  whom  they  have  preserved  peaceful  and 
friendly  relations  from  time  immemorial.  In  stature,  they  are  generally  tall  and 
well  made.  Their  physiognomy  is  manly,  their  language  is  guttural,  and  remarka 
ble  for  the  length  and  strong  accentation  of  the  final  syllables.  Their  style  of 
singing  is  monotonous,  whence  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  enchanting  music  heard 
on  the  rivers  of  Paraguay,  never  cheers  the  voyager  on  the  otherwise  beautiful 
streams  of  the  country  of  the  Kansas. 

The  Kansas,  like  all  the  Indian  tribes,  never  speak  upon  the  subject  of  religion 
without  becoming  solemnity.  The  more  they  are  observed,  the  more  evident  does 
it  become  that  the  religious  sentiment  is  deeply  implanted  in  their  souls,  and  is,  of 
all  others,  that  which  is  most  frequently  expressed  by  their  words  and  actions. 
Thus,  for  instance,  they  never  take  the  calumet  without  first  rendering  some  homage 
to  the  Great  Spirit.  In  the  midst  of  their  most  infuriate  passions  they  address 
him  certain  prayers,  and  even  in  assassinating  a  defenseless  child,  or  a  woman, 
they  invoke  the  Master  of  Life.  To  be  enabled  to  take  many  a  scalp  from  their 
enemies,  or  to  rob  them  of  many  horses,  becomes  the  object  of  their  most  fervid 
prayers,  to  which  they  sometimes  add  fasts,  macerations  and  sacrifices.  What  did 
they  not  do  last  spring,  to  render  the  heavens  propitious  ?  And  for  what  ?  To  ob 
tain  the  power,  in  the  absence  of  their  warriors,  to  massacre  all  the  women  and 
children  of  the  Pawnees !  And  in  effect  they  carried  off  the  scalps  of  ninety  vic 
tims,  and  made  prisoners  of  all  whom  they  did  not  think  proper  to  kill.  Tn  their 


KANSAS. 

eyes,  revenge,  far  from  being  a  horrible  vice,  is  the  first  of  virtues,  the  distinctive 
mark  of  great  souls,  and  a  complete  vindication  of  the  most  atrocious  cruelty.  It 
would  be  time  lost  to  attempt  to  persuade  them  that  there  can  be  neither  merit,  nor 
glory,  in  the  murder  of  a  disarmed  and  helpless  foe.  There  is  but  one  exception 
to  this  barbarous  code ;  it  is  when  an  enemy  voluntarily  seeks  a  refuge  in  one  of 
their  villages.  As  long  as  he  remains  in  it,  his  asylum  is  inviolable — his  life  is 
more  safe  than  it  would  be  in  his  own  wigwam.  But  wo  to  him  if  he  attempt  to 
fly — scarcely  has  he  taken  a  single  step,  before  he  restores  to  his  hosts  all  the  im 
aginary  rights  which  the  spirit  of  vengeance  had  given  them  to  his  life  !  However 
cruel  they  may  be  to  their  foes,  the  Kansas  are  no  strangers  to  the  tenderest  sen 
timents  of  piety,  friendship  and  compassion.  They  are  often  inconsolable  for  the 
death  of  their  relations,  and  leave  nothing  undone  to  give  proof  of  their  sorrow. 
Then  only  do  they  suffer  their  hair  to  grow — long  hair  being  a  sign  of  long  mourn 
ing.  The  principal  chief  apologized  for  the  length  of  his  hair,  informing  us,  of 
what  we  could  have  divined  from  the  sadness  of  his  countenance,  that  he  had  lost 
his  son.  I  wish  I  could  represent  to  you  the  respect,  astonishment  and  compas 
sion,  expressed  on  the  countenances  of  three  others,  when  they  visited  our  little 
chapel  for  the  first  time.  When  we  showed  them  an  "  Ecce  Homo  "  and  a  statue 
of  our  Lady  of  the  seven  Dolours,  and  the  interpreter  explained  to  them  that  that 
head  crowned  with  thorns,  and  that  countenance  denied  with  insults,  were  the  true 
and  real  image  of  a  God  who  had  died  for  the  love  of  us,  and  that  the  heart  they 
saw  pierced  with  seven  swords,  was  the  heart  of  his  mother,  we  beheld  an  affecting 
illustration  of  the  beautiful  thought  of  Tertullian,  that  the  soul  of  man  is  naturally 
Christian !  On  such  occasions,  it  is  surely  not  difficult,  after  a  short  instruction  on 
true  faith  and  the  love  of  God,  to  excite  feelings  of  pity  for  their  fellow  creatures 
in  the  most  ferocious  bosoms. 

THE    SHAWNEES    IN    KANSAS. 

Henry  Harvey,  late  superintendent  of  the  Friends  Mission  among  the  Shawnees, 
in  Kansas,  gives,  in  his  work"  on  the  history  of  that  tribe,  an  account  of  their  con 
dition  in  Kansas,  at  the  time  of  the  passege  of  the  Kansas-Nebraska  bill.  Origin 
ally  the  Shawnees  resided  in  the  Ohio  country:  the  tribe  was  one  of  the  most  pow 
erful  there,  and  has  numbered  among  its  chiefs,  Tecumseh,  Cornstalk,  and  other 
men  of  extraordinary  talent  and  nobility  of  soul.  Mr.  Harvey  says: 

"The  Shawnees,  in  the  year  1854,  numbered  about  nine  hundred  souls,  includ 
ing  the  white  men  who  have  intermarried  into  the  nation,  and  are  thereby  adopted  as 
Indians.  This  number  is  perhaps  not  more  than  twenty. 

This  tribe  owns  about  one  million  six  hundred  thousand  acres  of  land,  or,  about 
1,700  acres  each.  Many  of  them  have  good  dwelling-houses,  well  provided  with 
useful  and  respectable  furniture,  which  is  kept  in  good  order  by  the  females,  and 
they  live  in  the  same  manner  as  the  whites  do,  and  live  well  too.  They  have 
smoke-houses,  stables,  corn  cribs,  and  other  outbuildings.  They  have  a  good  sup 
ply  of  horses,  cattle,  hogs,  and  some  sheep.  They  have  many  farm  wagons  and 
work  oxen — some  carriages  and  buggies,  and  are  generally  well  supplied  with  farm 
ing  implements,  and  know  how  to  use  them.  They  raise  abundance  of  corn  and 
oats,  and  some  wheat.  Their  houses  are  generally  very  neat;  built  of  hewn  logs, 
with  shingled  roofs,  stone  chimneys,  and  the  inside  work  very  well  finished  off,  and 
mostly  done  by  themselves,  as  there  are  a  number  of  very  good  mechanics  among 
the  younger  class.  Their  fencing  is  very  good,  and,  taken  altogether,  their  settle 
ments  make  a  very  respectable  appearance,  and  would  lose  no  credit  by  a  compari 
son  with  those  of  their  white  neighbors  in  the  state  adjoining  them,  leaving  out 
now  and  then,  a  farm  where  slaves  do  the  labor,  and  thus  carry  on  farming  on  a 
large  scale. 

The  Shawnees  have  a  large  and  commodious  meeting-house,  where  they  hold  a 
religious  meeting  on  the  first  day  of  each  week.  They  have  also  a  graveyard  at 
tached  to  the  meeting-house  lot.  They  hold  religious  meetings  often  at  their  own 
houses  during  the  week,  generally  at  night.  They  hold  their  camp-meetings  and 
their  other  large  meetings,  in  their  meeting-house,  as  well  as  their  public  councils, 
and  also  their  temperance  meetings;  for  they,  in  imitation  of  their  white  brethren, 


g40  KANSAS. 

and  as  a  means  of  arresting  the  worst  evil  which  ever  overtook  the  Indians,  organ 
ized  a  society  on  this  subject,  and  have  their  own  lecturers,  in  which  they  arc 
assisted  by  some  of  the  missionaries.  The  younger  class  of  them  ar^  most  inter 
ested  in  this  work,  which  is  doing  much  good  among  them.  Many  of  them  have 
united  themselves  to  religious  societies,  and  appear  to  be  very  zealous  observers  of 
the  forms  and  ceremonies  of  religion,  and  notwithstanding  many  of  them,  like  too 
many  of  their  white  brethren,  appear  to  have  the  form  of  godliness  but  not  the 
power,  yet  it  is  apparent,  that  there  are  those  among  them  who  are  endeavoring  to 
walk  in  the  just  man's  path,  which,  to  one  who  has  been  acquainted  with  them  for 
a  number  of  years,  even  when  in  their  wild  and  savage  state,  affords  great  satisfac 
tion. 

As  regards  the  settlements  of  the  Shawnees  in  their  present  situation,  they  are 
all  located  on  about  thirty  miles  of  the  east  end  of  their  tract;  their  settlements 
of  course,  reaching  a  little  short  of  one  third  of  the  distance  back  from  the  Mis 
souri  state  line. 

In  passing  along  the  California  and  Santa  Fe  roads,  which  run  on  the  divide  be 
tween  the  streams  of  the  Blue  and  Osage  Rivers,  and  the  Kansas  River — in  cast 
ing  the  eye  on  either  side,  a  handsome  view  is  presented  on  both  hands,  of  good 
dwellings,  handsome  farms,  bordering  on  the  forest,  and  fine  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses  grazing  in  the  rich  prairies,  as  we  pass,  and  beautiful  fields  of  grain  sown, 
planted  and  cultivated  by  the  Indians  themselves;  and  should  the  weary  traveler 
see  proper  to  call,  and  spend  a  night  with  these  people,  and  manifest  that  interest 
for  them,  which  he  will  be  very  sure  to  do,  in  viewing  them  in  their  present  con 
dition,  and  comparing  it  with  what  it  once  was,  he  will  be  well  cared  for.  The 
Shawnees  generally  sow  a  large  amount  of  grain,  and  often  spare  a  large  surplus 
after  supplying  their  own  wants. 

There  are  now  in  the  Shawnee  nation  four  Missions,  one  under  the  care  of  the 
Methodist  Church  South,  one  under  the  care  of  the  Northern  Methodist  Church, 
one  under  the  care  of  the  Baptist  Church,  and  the  other  under  the  care  of  the  So 
ciety  of  Friends.  They  are  all  conducted  on  the  manual  labor  system;  about  one 
hundred  and  forty  children  are  generally  in  attendance  at  those  schools.  At  the 
first  named  mission  there  are  large  and  commodious  buildings  of  brick,  and  other 
out-buildings,  and  five  or  six  hundred  acres  under  cultivation;  at  the  other  Metho 
dist  Mission,  a  farm  of  about  one  hundred  acres  is  under  cultivation,  and  comfort 
able  log  buildings  are  erected.  At  the  Baptist  Mission  are  good  comfortable  build 
ings,  and,  I  suppose,  near  one  hundred  acres  adjoining  to,  and  at  some  distance 
from,  the  farm,  where  the  school  is  kept ;  and  at  the  Friends'  Mission  are  a  large 
frame  house  and  barn,  and  other  out-buildings,  and  about  two  hundred  acres  under 
cultivation." 


THE   TIMES 

OF 

THE      HEB 

IN 

KANSAS. 


Though  young  and  weak  Kansas  has  taken  an  important  part  In 
the  war  for  the  union,  and  proved  her  devotion,  not  only  by  the  hero 
ism  of  her  sons  in  the  field,  but  by  the  sufferings  she  has  endured 
from  her  unwavering  steadfastness.  Though  not  the  cause,  she  may 
be  regarded  in  a  certain  sense  as  the  occasion  of  the  terrible  war 
which  has  deluged  the  land  with  blood.  This  must  be  evident  to  all 
acquainted  with  her  struggles  for  existence  as  a  state,  for  out  of  them 
arose  the  republican  party,  the  election  of  a  republican  president,  and 
the  rebellion  of  the  southern  states  against  his  rule. 

Though  no  great  battle  has  been  fought  on  her  soil,  the  valor  of  her 
sons  has  been  illustrated  in  many  a  fierce  conflict ;  and  the  fiendish 
atrocities  which  have  been  enacted  within  her  borders,  will  forever 
entitle  her  to  the  sad,  yet  truthful,  distinction  which  suffering  for 
right  ever  bestows.  At  the  breaking  out  of  the  war,  the  hatred  of 
pro-slavery  men  in  Missouri  burst  forth  upon  this  weak  and  unpro 
tected  neighbor  with  redoubled  fury,  and  a  cruelty  never  surpassed. 

The  Kansas  volunteers  were  in  the  earliest  conflicts  of  the  war  on 
the  borders  ;  and  with  such  spirit  had  they  entered  into  them,  that, 
when  taken  prisoners,  they  were  the  special  victims  of  the  malig 
nancy  of  the  rebels.  The  Kansas  troops  gained  great  distinction  un 
der  the  leadership  of  General  James  G.  Blunt,  the  hero  of  many  bor 
der  fights,  nearly  all  of  them  victories.  We  give  a  brief  account  of 
his  operations. 

In  September,  1862,  a  body  of  his  cavalry,  commanded  by  Colonel  Cloud,  went 
in  pursuit  of  a  body  of  rebels  under  Emmett  McDonald.  They  encountered 
them  at  Cane  Hill,  in  Arkansas.  The  latter  dashed  into  the  Boston  mountains 
with  Cloud  in  swift  pursuit.  He  chased  them  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Ar 
kansas  ;  but  the  fleet-footed  Emmett  escaped  with  severe  loss.  On  the  7th  of  De 
cember  following  occurred  the  battle  of  Prairie  Grove,  in  which  the  troops  under 
Gen.  Blunt  came  in  most  opportunely,  saving  Gen.  Herron's  forces  from  being 
overwhelmed,  and  bringing  a  noble  victory  to  the  union  arms.  The  details  are 
given  on  page,  541. 

On  the  5th  of  July,  of  the  next  year,  Blunt  headed  his  little  column  and  started 
from  Fort  Scott  for  the  front  of  his  command.  He  made  the  march  to  Arkansas 
(175  miles)  in  four  days ;  organized  his  force,  2,500  strong,  of  all  colors ;  crossed 
41 


642 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 


the  Arkansas,  and  attacked  Cooper's  combined  force  of  6,000  men,  at  Honey 
Springs;  fought  half  a  day,  totally  routed  him;  rested  a  couple  of  days  on  the 
battle  field,  and  then  fell  back  to  the  Arkansas  again.  This  brilliant  movement 
effectually  crippled  the  enemy. 

But  this  was  not  enough.  The  rebels  had  merely  fallen  back  south  of  the  Ca 
nadian.  They  held  Fort  Smith — an  old  and  historical  post  of  the  government, 
in  the  Indian  territory,  substantially  fortified,  and  a  fine  base  for  operations. 
The  government  had  decided  to  colonize  the  Kansas  Indians  in  the  Indian  terri 
tory — the  Kickapoos,  Sacs  and  Foxes,  Delawares,  Shawnees,  and  Osages — few  in 
number,  but  highly  civilized;  and  it  was  clear  that  the  rebels  must  be  driven  out 
before  this  could  be  accomplished.  General  Blunt's  call  for  reinforcements  was 
at  length  partially  answered.  Colonel  Cloud's  brigade  of  Arkansas,  Missouri  and 
Kansas  troops,  which  had  been  stationed  in  southwest  Missouri,  was  ordered  to 
move  into  northwestern  Arkansas,  and  support  General  Blunt.  He  ordered  them 
to  join  his  immediate  command,  which  they  did  the  19th  of  August;  and  the  22d 
of  August  he  again  took  the  field  south  of  the  Arkansas.  A  ten-days  campaign 
ensued,  that,  in  arduous  marches,  rapidity  of  movement,  and  decisive  results,  has 
been  rarely  equaled.  Every  march  was  a  battle — every  roadside  was  lined  with 
the  enemy's  dead — running  fights  of  twenty-five,  thirty-five,  and  one  of  fifty  miles 
in  a  day,  were  the  characteristics  of  the  movement.  In  the  result,  Fort  Smith  was 
taken.  This  town,  for  more  than  two  years,  had  been  a  general  headquarters  of 
rebellion  and  treason.  Few  places  had  suffered  as  much  from  the  desolation  of 
war  as  this  once  flourishing  town  ;  and  great  was  the  misery  brought  upon  the 
people  who  had  been  dragooned  into  subserviency  to  treason. 

The  amount  of  territory  recovered  and  occupied  by  the  federal  forces,  during 
these  operations,  was  great.  Not  a  general  had  then  restored  a  country  so  vast  to 
the  sovereignty  of  the  government.  It  is  true,  he  had  no  large  armies  to  encoun 
ter,  but  the  enemy  always  outnumbered  him  three  to  one,  were  led  by  experienced 
officers,  and  made  to  believe  that  their  homes,  their  safety,  their  all,  depended  on 
his  defeat.  With  unwavering  courage  and  persistent  energy,  he  pushed  them 
from  post  to  post,  and  from  camp  to  camp,  till  they  abandoned  their  unrighteous 
conquest,  and  left  it  to  undergo,  without  disturbance,  the  process  of  a  full  restora 
tion  of  federal  sway. 

On  the  6th  of  the  ensuing  October,  his  wagon  train  and  escort  were  surprised 
by  a  large  body  of  Quantrill  and  Coffey's  guerrillas,  disguised  in  federal  uniforms, 
when  most  of  them,  panic-stricken,  fled.  Gen.  Blunt,  who  was  along,  rallied  a 
small  band  of  men  under  Lieut.  Pierce,  of  the  14th  Kansas,  and  drove  back  theii 
advance.  About  75  of  the  union  soldiers  were  killed.  This  number  included 
the  wounded,  all  of  whom  were  massacred.  Among  these  were  Major  Curtis  and 
Mr.  O'Neill,  artist  for  Frank  Leslie's  paper.  Gen.  Blunt,  in  his  history  of  th» 
disaster,  said :  "  I  was  fortunate  in  escaping,  as,  in  my  efforts  to  halt  and  rally  th< 
men,  I  frequently  got  in  the  rear  and  became  considerably  mixed  up  with  th« 
rebels,  who  did  not  fail  to  pay  me  their  compliments.  Revolver  bullets  flew  around 
my  head  thick  as  hail — but  not  a  scratch.  I  believe  I  am  not  to  be  killed  bv  a 
rebel  bullet." 

THE  LAWRENCE  MASSACRE. 

The  bloodiest  tragedy  of  the  war  took  place  just  after  daylight  on 
the  morning  of  the  20th  of  August,  1863,  when  that  guerrilla  chief, 
Quantrill,  and  his  cutthroat  band,  numbering  about  300,  suddenly  and 
secretly  stole  into  Lawrence,  murdered  many  of  its  peaceful  and  un 
armed  inhabitants,  and  after  satiating  their  thirst  for  plunder  and 
blood,  applied  the  torch  and  destroyed  a  great  portion  of  this  young 
and  nourishing  city.  From  the  accounts  of  various  witnesses,  we 
give  the  soul-harrowing  details :  and  yet  there  are  men — many  call 
ing  themselves  Christians — all  through  the  north,  who  would  like  to 
preserve  an  institution  which  alone  could  produce  such  horrible  fiends 


IN  KANSAS. 


643 


as  the  Lawrence  murderers.     One  who  visited  the  scene  of  blood  just 
after  the  occurrence,  writes  : 

We  arrived  in  Lawrence  at  7  o'clock.  Flying  rumors  had  painted  a  terrible 
picture,  but  the  reality  exceeded  the  report.  We  found  Massachusetts-street  one 
mass  of  smoldering  ruins  and  crumbling  walls,  the  light  from  which  cast  a  sick 
ening  glare  upon  the  little  knots  of  excited  men  and  distracted  women,  gazing 
upon  the  ruins  of  their  once  happy  homes  and  prosperous  business. 

Only  two  business  houses  were  left  upon  the  street,  one  known  as  the  armory 
and  the  other  as  the  old  "Miller  block."  And  only  one  or  two  houses  in 
the  place  escaped  being  burned  or  ransacked,  and  everything  valuable  being  car 
ried  away  or  destroyed.  Six  or  eight  soldiers  camped  upon  the  side  of  the  river, 
and  who  fired  across  at  every  rebel  who  appeared  upon  the  bank,  deterred  the 
cowards  from  destroying  some  of  the  houses  near  the  ferry  and  from  cutting  down 
the  flag-pole. 

Their  every  act  during  their  stay  in  the  city  was  characterized  by  the  most 
cowardly  barbarism.  They  entered  the  town  on  the  gallop  firing  into  every 
house,  and  when  the  occupants  appeared  at  the  door  they  were  shot  down  like 
dogs. 

Five  bodies  burned  to  a  crisp  lay  near  the  ruins  of  the  Eldridge  house.  They 
could  not  be  recognized.  Judge  Carpenter  was  wounded  in  his  yard,  and  fell, 
when  his  wife  and  sister  threw  themselves  upon  his  body,  begging  for  mercy,  but 
to  no  avail. 

The  fiends  dismounted,  stuck  their  pistols  between  the  persons  of  his  protectors 
and  fired. 

Gen.  Collamore  went  into  his  well  to  hide,  and  the  bad  air  killed  him.  His  son 
and  Pat  Keefe  lost  their  lives  trying  to  get  the  father  out 

The.  life  of  District  Attorney  Higgs  was  saved  by  the  heroism  of  his  wife,  who 
seized  the  bridle  of  the  rebel's  horse  who  attempted  to  shoot  him  as  he  ran.  Seve 
ral  cases  of  remarkable  bravery  of  women  were  related  to  us.  The  wife  of  Sher 
iff  Brown,  three  successive  times  put  out  the  fire  kindled  to  burn  the  house — her 
husband  was  hidden  under  the  floor. 

The  offices  of  the  Journal,  Tribune  and  Republican  were,  of  course,  leveled  to 
the  ground.  John  Speer,  jr.,  of  the  Tribune,  started  from  his  home  for  the  office, 
after  the  rebels  came  in.  Mr.  Murdock,  a  printer  in  the  office,  tried  to  induce  him 
to  accompany  him  into  a  well  near  by  for  safety,  but  he  would  do  nothing  but  go 
home  to  defend  the  house,  which  he  did  and  was  killed.  Murdock  went  into  the 
well  and  was  saved.  A  younger  son  of  John  Speer,  sr.,  killed  a  rebel  and  left. 
Guests  at  the  Eldridge  were  ordered  out,  their  rooms  pillaged  and  some  of  the 
people  shot  down.  All  the  hotels  were  destroyed  except  the  City  Hotel.  The 
loss  in  cash  is  estimated  at  $250,000,  and  in  property  and  all,  at  $2,000,000. 

We  have  seen  battle-fields  and  scenes  of  carnage  and  bloodshed,  but  have  never 
witnessed  a  spectacle  so  horrible  as  that  seen  among  the  smoldering  ruins  at  Law 
rence.  No  fighting,  no  resistance,  but  cold-blooded  murder  was  there.  The  whole 
number  killed  was  over  200.  We  give  below  a  list  of  76  killed  and  several 
wounded.  The  fiends  finished  their  murderous  work  in  nearly  every  case.  This 
list  contains  no  names  but  those  of  white  persons.  A  few  negroes  were  killed, 
but  we  did  not  get  their  names: 

John  Fromley,  J.  C.  Trask,  of  the  State  Journal,  (Jen.  G.  W.  Collamore  and  son,  James 
Eldridge,  James  Perrine,  Joseph  Bldridge,  Joseph  Lowe,  Dr.  Griswold,  druggist,  Win. 
Williamson,  deputy  marshal,  S.  M.  Thorp,  state  senator,  Judge  Lewis  Carpenter,  John 
Speer,  jr.,  of  Kansas  Tribune,  Nathan-Stone,  city  hotel,  Mr.  Brant,  Mr.  West,  Thos.  Mur 
phy,  Mr.  Twitch,  bookbinder  at  Journal  office,  B.  P.  Fitch,  bookseller,  Chas.  Palmer,  of 
the  Journal,  Lemuel  Fillmore,  James  O'Neill,  John  Dagle,  D.  C.  Allison,  firm  of  Duncan 
&  Allison,  J.  Z.  Evans,  Levi  Gates,  George  Burt,  Samuel  Jones,  George  Coates,  John  B. 
Gill,  Ralph  E.  Dix,  Stephen  Dix,  Capt.  George  W.  Bell,  county  clerk,  John  C.  Cornell,  A. 
Kridmiller,  George  Albrecht,  S.  Dullinski,  Robert  Martin,  Otis  Lengley,  John  W.  Lawrie, 
Wm.  Lawrie,  James  Roach,  Michael  Meekey,  Louis  Wise  and  infant,  Joseph  Bretchel- 
baner,  August  Ellis,  Dennis  Murphy,  John  K.  Zimmerman,  Carl  Enzler,  George  Range, 
Samuel  Range,  Jacob  Pollock,  Fred.  Klaus,  Fred.  Kimball,  Dwight  Coleman,  Mr.  Earle 
Daniel  McClellan,  Rev.  S.  S.  Snyder,  Samuel  Reynolds,  Goo.  Gerrard,  A.  W.  Griswold' 


TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Pat.  Keefe,  Chas.  Allen,  James  Wilson,  Charles  Riggs,  A.  J.  Woods,  Chae.  Anderson,  W. 
B.  Griswold,  A.  J.  Cooper,  Asbury  Markle,  David  Markle,  Lewis  Markle,  Aaron  Haider- 
man  and  Addison  Waugh. 

Wounded. — H.  W.  Baker,  Dennis  Berryman,  G.  H.  Sargeant,  mortally ;  G.  Smith,  H. 
Hayes,  M.  Hampson,  Mr.  Livingston. 

At  one  house  they  had  entered,  the  rebels  were  told  there  was  a  negro  baby 
still  there,  but  they  said,  "  We  will  burn  the  G — d  d — d  little  brat  up,"  and  they 
did.  We  saw  its  charred  remains,  burned  black  as  the  hearts  of  its  murderers. 

The  books  of  the  county  and  district  clerks  were  burned,  but  those  of  the  regis 
ter  of  deeds  were  in  the  safe,  and  are  supposed  to  have  been  saved.  Every  safe 
in  the  city  but  two  was  robbed.  In  the  Eldridge  store,  James  Eldridge  and  James 
Perrine  gave  the  rebels  all  the  money  in  the  safe,  and  were  immediately  shot. 

The  last  account  we  have  of  Quantrill  and  his  men  is  up  to  Saturday  night,  at 
which  time  he  was  being  pressed  closely  by  Lane,  who  had  been  skirmishing  with 
him  constantly  since  he  left  Lawrence. 

Lane's  force  was  being  increased  rapidly  by  farmers,  who  were  flocking  to  him 
with  their  arms,  and  it  was  their  determination  to  follow  him  into  Missouri,  and, 
if  he  disbanded  his  gang,  they  would  hunt  them  down,  like  wolves,  and  shoot 
them. 

One  of  their  number  was  captured  near  Olathe,  and  he  gave  the  names  of  fifty 
of  Quantrill's  gang,  who  are  citizens  of  Jackson  county,  Missouri,  and  are  well- 
known  here  and  have  always  been  considered  union  men. 

The  best-informed  citizens  of  Lawrence  are  of  the  opinion  that  Quantrill's 
troops  are  mainly  composed  of  paroled  prisoners  from  Pemberton's  army,  and 
some  of  them  from  Price's  command,  from  the  fact  that,  they  are  much  sunburned 
and  have  the  appearance  of  being  long  in  the  service. 

After  they  had  accomplished  the  destruction  of  Lawrence,  some  of  them  be 
came  much  intoxicated,  but,  being  strapped  to  their  horses,  there  was  none  left 
behind  to  give  information  as  to  who  they  were  or  where  they  were  from. 

A  resident  near  the  town  writes  to  his  brother  some  additional  par 
ticulars. 

DEAR  BROTHER:  You  have  doubtless  heard  before  this  will  reach  you,  of  the 
dreadful  calamity  that  has  befallen  Lawrence  and  vicinity,  by  the  sacking  and 
burning  of  the  town,  and  other  indiscriminate  slaughter  of  its  citizens  on  Frida  , 
the  21st  instant,  by  Quantrill  and  his  band  of  incarnate  demons. 

Language  fails  me  to  depict  the  scenes  enacted  on  last  Friday.  May  I  never 
behold  the  like  again.  But  I  must  give  you  some  idea  of  the  raid  and  its  dire  re 
sults. 

About  sunrise  or  a  little  before,  on  the  21st  instant,  four  men  forcibly  entered 
the  house  of  a  Rev.  Mr.  Snyder,  living  about  a  mile  southeast  of  Lawrence,  and 
pierced  him  through  and  through  with  balls  from  their  revolvers,  while  lying  in 
bed  by  the  side  of  his  wife.  At  the  same  time,  a  body  of  about  300  well-mounted 
beings  in  the  shape  of  men,  armed  to  the  teeth,  dashed  into  town  and  spread  them 
selves  instantly  over  the  whole  business  part  of  the  place,  shooting  down  every 
man  who  dared  to  show  himself. 

In  this  dash  two  small  camps  of  recruits,  on  Massachusetts-street  (one  of  white, 
and  the  other  colored)  were  surrounded,  and  the  poor,  defenseless  fellows,  with 
out  a  gun  in  camp,  and  begging  most  piteously  for  their  lives,  were  pierced 
through  and  through  with  bullets,  and  all  but  four  of  the  two  unfilled  companies 
left  mangled  corpses  on  the  ground.  One  of  the  poor  fellows  thus  barbarously 
murdered  for  daring  to  become  a  union  soldier,  was  a  nephew  of  mine,  the  sight 
of  whose  bleeding,  mangled  body  I  shall  never  forget. 

The  armory  was  cut  off  from  the  citizens,  pickets  stationed  around  the  town, 
and  no  chance  whatever  of  concentrating  even  twenty  men  with  arms.  The  peo 
ple  were  completely  paralyzed  by  this  sudden  and  audacious  dash ;  indeed,  the 
most  of  them  were  still  in  their  beds  when  the  work  of  murder  commenced. 
The  banks  were  robbed,  safes  broken  open,  stores  ransacked,  the  best  of  every 
thing  taken,  and  then  the  buildings  fired.  Every  man  that  was  encountered  was 
met  with,  "  Your  money  or  your  life;  "  and,  with  few  exceptions,  the  poor  victim 


IN  KANSAS. 


645 


would  be  shot  dead,  after  handing  over  his  purse,  and  answering  what  questions 
they  chose  to  put  to  him. 

In  several  instances,  they  ordered  men  to  get  water  for  them  and  wait  upon 
them  in  various  ways,  pledging  themselves,  if  they  would  do  so,  their  lives  should 
be  spared,  and  as  soon  as  they  had  done  with  them,  would  turn  around  and  shoot 
them  down  like  mad  dogs.  One  little  child  they  shot  dead,  because  it  cried. 
There  were  those  with  them  who,  evidently,  were  well-acquainted  with  the  town, 
as  the  places  and  persons  of  active  and  prominent  union  men  were  made  the  spe 
cial  marks  of  vengeance. 

General  Lane's  fine  residence  was  among  the  first,  and  he  himself  had  a  narrow 
escape.  The  editors  of  the  several  papers  were  objects  of  especial  vengeance, 
and  two  of  them  were  caught  and  murdered.  1  shall  not  attempt  to  give  you  a 
list  of  the  precious  lives  taken.  I  believe,  however,  that  half  our  business  men 
were  either  shot  down  or  burnt  alive  in  their  houses  ;  and  out  of  the  fine  blocks 
of  stores  of  every  description  only  two  solitary  buildings  remain,  and  they  were 
sacked.  The  rest  is  a  mass  of  blackened  ruins,  under  which  lies,  I  fear,  many  a 
charred  body,  as  many  were  shot  down  while  attempting  to  escape  from  the  burn 
ing  buildings.  Nearly  every  house  was  sacked,  and  the  best  ones  fired ;  but,  ow 
ing  to  the  very  stillness  of  the  air  at  the  time,  the  flames  were  extinguished  in 
many,  as  soon  as  the  rebels  would  leave,  and  as  they  had  so  large  a  programme 
before  them,  they  could  not  repeat  any  of  the  performance.  The  work  of  mur 
der,  arson  and  robbery  lasted  about  two  hours  and  a  half,  in  which  time  they  had 
sent  over  one  hundred  innocent  men  to  the  eternal  world — deprived  a  large  num 
ber  of  families  of  food,  raiment,  house  and  home,  and  destroyed  about  $2,000,000 
worth  of  property.  They  then  took  up  their  line  of  march  due  south,  detailing 
squads  of  men  on  each  side  of  the  road  to  burn  every  house  and  murder  every 
man.  Family  after  family  would  slip  out  into  their  corn-fields,  to  watch  their 
houses  burned  up  by  these  invaders,  without  being  able  to  offer  the  least  resist 
ance  ;  and  woe  be  to  any  man  who  had  the  hardihood  to  remain  at  his  house  and 
offer  remonstrance. 

I  live  but  two  miles  south  of  Lawrence,  and  three  men  were  shot  between  Law 
rence  and  my  place,  for  daring  to  remain  in  sight — all  of  them  quiet,  peaceable 
men,  and  two  of  them  too  old  to  be  called  upon  to  do  military  duty.  And  now 
comes  the  practical  application  to  my  own  case.  A  squad  of  six  men  are  sent 
fro**  the  main  body  to  visit  my  house.  With  guns  cocked,  and  eyes  glaring  more 
ferociously  than  a  tiger's,  they  dash  up  to  the  buildings,  apply  a  match  to  a  large 
stack  of  Hungarian,  then  to  the  outbuildings,  the  barn  and  sheds,  and  while  these 
are  rolling  up  their  volumes  of  smoke  and  flames,  the  house  is  visited,  trunks 
burst  open,  drawers  and  shelves  ransacked,' all  valuables  that  could  be  crammed 
into  pockets,  or  strapped  on  their  horses,  taken,  and  the  rest  enveloped  in  flames. 

By  the  time  the  flames  began  to  recede,  the  next  house  south  of  mine  is  rolling 
up  dense  volumes  of  smoke,  and  soon  the  next:  and  now  they  visit  the  house  of 
an  old  gray-headed  Dunkard,  who,  alas,  thought  that  his  age  and  religion  would 

Erotect  him,  but  the  infuriated  demons  thirsted  for  blood,  shot  him  down,  regard- 
388  of  the  poor  old  man's  cries  and  entreaties  to  spare  his  life.  The  track,  by 
fire  and  sword,  of  these  murderous  villains,  was  made  through  the  valleys  and 
over  the  hills  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 

In  a  little  longer  than  it  has  taken  me  to  write  this,  everything  inflammable 
was  consumed — houses,  furniture,  bedding,  clothing,  books,  provisions,  outbuild 
ings — all,  all  utterly  destroyed.  The  work  of  eight  years'  hard  toil  gone  in  as 
many  minutes,  and  another  family  thrown  out  of  house  and  shelter. 

I  can  not  refrain  from  giving  you  an  instance  or  two  of  the  savage  barbarity 
practiced  by  these  demons.  They  brought  Mr.  Trask  to1  the  door  of  his  house 
and  told  him  if  he  would  give  up  his  money  they  would  not  shoot  him,  but  as  soon 
as  he  had  given  it  up  he  was  instantly  shot;  he  then  tried  to  escape  by  running, 
but  they  followed  and  shot  him  dead. 

Dr.  Griswold  was  in  his  house  when  they  attacked  him.  His  wife  ran  and  put 
her  arms  around  him,  and  begged  most  piteously  for  his  life,  when  one  of  them 
passed  his  hand,  holding  a  revolver,  around  her,  and  shot  the  doctor  through  the 
heart. 


£46  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION 

Mr.  Fitch  was  shot  in  his  house,  and  his  wife,  while  running  to  his  rescue,  was 
dragged  away,  the  house  fired,  and  poor  Mr.  Kiteh  burned  up,  it  inav  be  alive. 

A  gunsmith,  by  the  name  of  Palmer,  and  his  son,  were  burned  up  in  their 
shop  before  dying  of  their  wounds. 

Mr.  Allison,  of  the  firm  of  Duncan  &  Allison,  crawled  out  from  under  the 
burning  ruins,  and  they  threw  him  back  again  into  the  ruins. 

But  the  heart  sickens.     1  can  write  no  more.     Oh,  God  !  who  shall  avenge  ? 

Your  brother,  S.  R. 

Incidents. — Mr.  Stone  was  killed  by  one  of  a  party  which  remained  in  town 
after  the  main  body  had  gone.  They  remained  with  the  avowed  purpose  of  kill 
ing  Miss  Lydia  Stone,  her  father  and  brother;  and.  for  that  purpose,  ordered  all 
in  the  house  to  form  a  line  outside.  Hearing  this,  Mr.  Stevens  went  up  stairs  and 
informed  Miss  Stone  that  she,  as  well  as  himself,  was  marked  for  a  victim,  and 
asked  if  she  would  not  try  to  escape.  The  brave  girl  replied  that  it  would  be 
useless;  that  they  would  probably  kill  some  of  them,  and  that  she  would  share 
the  danger,  "  it  might  as  well  be  her  as  any  of  the  others." 

During  the  confusion  which  ensued  in  front  of  the  house,  Mr.  Stevens  and  Mr. 
Stone,  jr..  escaped  by  a  back  door  and  secreted  themselves  on  the  bank  of  the 
river.  Finally,  the  house  was  cleared,  and  the  citizens  formed  in  a  line  outside, 
when  the  villains  commenced  questioning  them,  asking  their  names,  where  they 
were  born,  etc.  A  gentleman  answered,  "  central  Ohio,"  when  one  of  the  party 
remarked,  "that  is  worse  than  Kansas,"  and  shot  him,  the  wound,  however,  not 
being  fatal.  A  lady  in  the  house  was  then  fired  at,  when  Mr.  Stone  commenced 
to  remonstrate  with  them,  was  immediately  shot,  the  ball  entering  the  left  side  of 
the  head,  killing  him  instantly. 

We  are  indebted  to  Mr.  Wm.  Kempf's  account  for  the  following  facts: 

Citizens  without  arms,  who  came  to  the  door,  in  obedience  to  their  call,  would 
be  shot  at  sight.  Several  were  shot  down  on  the  sidewalk,  and  when  the  build 
ings  burned,  their  bodies  would  roast.  Others  could  be  seen  in  the  burning  build 
ings. 

One  of  the  first  persons  out,  was  Colonel  Dietzler.  The  sight  that  met  us  when 
coming  out,  1  can  not  describe.  I  have  read  of  outrages  committed  in  the  so- 
called  dark  ages,  and  horrible  as  they  appeared  to  me,  they  sink  into  insignifi 
cance  in  comparison  with  what  1  was  then  compelled  to  witness  Well-known 
citizens  were  lyin<:  in  front  of  the  spot  where  there  stores  or  residences  had  been, 
completely  roasted.  They  were  crisped  and  nearly  black.  We  thought,  at  Jirst, 
that  they  were  all  negroes,  till  we  recognized  some  of  them.  In  handling  the  dead 
bodies  pieces  of  roasted  flesh  would  remain  in  our  hands. 

Soon  our  strength  failed  us  in  this  horrible  and  sickening  work.  Many  could 
not  help  crying  like  children.  Women  and  little  children  were  all  over  town 
hunting  for  their  husbands  and  fathers,  and  sad  indeed  was  the  scene  when  they 
did  finally  find  them  among  the  corpses  laid  out  for  recognition.  I  can  not  de 
scribe  the  horrors;  language  fails  me,  and  the  recollection  of  scenes  I  witnessed 
makes  me  sick,  when  I  am  compelled  to  repeat  them. 

Captain  Banks  surrendered  the  Eldridge  House,  by  waving  a  wThite  flag  from 
the  window,  and  was  promised  that  the  ladies  should  be  treated  with  respect,  and 
that  the  men  should  be  regarded  as  prisoners.  The  party  was  then  sent  to  the 
Whitney  House  under  escort,  being  followed  all  the  way  by  three  or  four  of  the 
gang,  crazed  with  drink,  and  totally  regardless  of  the  decencies  of  modesty  in 
their  remarks  to  the  prisoners.  One  man  was  shot  while  the  prisoners  were  pass 
ing  toward  the  Whitney  House,  but,  upon  the  interposition  of  Quantrill's  author 
ity,  they  were  not  further  injured. 

The  Eldridge  House  was  ransacked  form  cellar  to  garret,  and  plundered  of 
everything  which  could  tempt  the  cupidity  of  the  guerrillas.  Trunks  were  cut 
open,  clothing  taken,  ladies'  wardrobes  seized  or  ruined,  and  the  house  fired,  in 
the  drug  store  below,  whence  the  flames  rapidly  spread,  and  in  a  short  time  the 
noble  structure  was  only  a  heap  of  ruins — the  second  destruction  upon  the  site. 

Plunder  was  carried  off  on  pack-bosses,  and  each  private  of  the  rebel  gang 
must  have  been  greatly  elated  by  his  share  of  the  pure  money,  as  all  the  safes  io 


IN  KANSAS. 


647 


the  city  were  cut  open,  or  blown  up  by  filling  the  key-holes  with  powder.  Tn 
some  instances  the  keys  were  demanded,  and  a  refusal,  in  every  case,  was  a  death- 
warrant,  and  compliance  hardly  better.  The  amount  carried  away  by  the  gang 
will  probably  exceed  $75,000. 

Eighteen  soldiers,  out  of  twenty-two,  belonging  to  the  14th  regiment,  were 
killed,  with  a  number  of  the  2d  colored. 

The  ladies  exhibited,  in  many  instances,  the  greatest  degree  of  calmness  and 
courage.  Among  the  noble  women  of  the  second  sacking  of  Lawrence,  Miss 
Lydia  Stone  will  always  be  remembered  as  a  "ministering  angel,"  moving  with 
quiet  grace  among  the  throng  of  sufferers,  attending  to  their  wants  and  speaking 
words  of  comfort  and  cheer. 

The  search  was  particularly  directed  for  Governor  Carney  and  General  Lane, 
the  rebels  having  heard  that  both  were  in  the  city.  Lane's  lucky  star  and  a 
neighboring  corn  field  saved  him,  and  the  governor  was  in  Leavenworth. 

Eev.  H.  D.  Fisher,  a  well-known  minister  of  the  Methodist  Episco 
pal  Church,  gives  a  thrilling  description  of  his  escape  from  death  dur- 
ng  the  massacre.     He  says  : 

Many  miraculous  escapes  from  the  assassin's  hand  were  made — none,  perhaps, 
nore  so  than  in  my  own  case.  For  the  last  eighteen  months  I  have  been  marked 
)y  rebels  for  death,  because  I  have  been  ordered  by  various  generals  to  provide 
4  homes  for  refugees,"  and  find  work  for  them  to  do,  to  support  themselves  and 
families.  ^Vow,  three  times  I  have  signally  escaped  their  hands.  God  has  saved 
my  life  as  by  fire.  When  Quantrill  and  his  gang  came  into  our  town,  almost  all 
were  yet  in  their  beds.  My  wife  and  second  boy  were  up,  and  I  in  bed,  because  I 
had  been  sick  of  quinsy.  The  enemy  yelled  and  fired  a  signal.  I  sprang  out,  and 
my  other  children,  and  we  clothed  ourselves  as  quickly  as  possible. 

1  took  the  two  oldest  boys  and  started  to  run  for  the  hill,  as  we  were  completely 
defenseless  and  unguarded.  1  ran  a  short  distance,  and  felt  I  would  be  killed.  I 
returned  to  my  house,  where  I  had  left  my  wife  with  Joel,  seven  years,  and  Frank, 
six  months  old,  and  thought  to  hide  in  our  cellar.  I  told  Willie,  twelve  years  old, 
and  Eddie,  ten  years  old,  to  run  for  life,  and  [  would  hide.  I  had  scarcely  found 
a  spot  in  which  to  secrete  myself,  when  four  murderers  entered  my  house  and  de 
manded  of  my  wife,  with  horrid  oaths,  where  that  husband  of  hers  was,  who  was 
hid  in  the  cellar  ?  She  replied,  "  The  cellar  is  open  ;  you  can  go  and  see  for 
yourselves.  My  husband  started  over  the  hill  with  the  children."  They  de 
manded  a  light  to  search.  My  wife  gave  them  a  lighted  lamp,  and  they  came, 
light  and  revolvers  in  hand,  swearing  to  kill  at  first  sight.  They  came  within  eight 
feet  of  where  I  lay,  but  my  wife's  self-possession  in  giving  the  light  had  discon 
certed  them,  and  they  left  without  seeing  me.  They  fired  our  house  in  four 
places ;  but  rny  wife,  by  almost  superhuman  efforts,  and  with  baby  in  arms,  ex 
tinguished  the  fire.  Soon  after,  three  others  came  and  asked  for  me.  But  she 
said :  "  Do  you  think  he  is  such  a  fool  as  to  stay  here  ?  They  have  already 
hunted  for  him,  but,  thank  God!  they  did  not  find  him."  They  then  completed 
their  work  of  pillage  and  robbery,  and  fired  the  house  in  five  places,  threatening 
to  kill  her  if  she  attempted  to  extinguish  it  again.  One  stood,  revolver  in  hand, 
to  execute  the  threat  if  it  was  attempted.  The  fire  burned  furiously.  The  roof 
fell  in,  then  the  upper  story,  and  then  the  lower  floor;  but  a  space  about  six  by 
twelve  feet  was,  by  great  effort,  kept  perfectly  deluged  by  water,  by  my  wife,  to 
save  me  from  burning  alive.  I  remained  thus  concealed  as  long  as  I  could  live  in 
such  peril.  At  length,  and  while  the  murderers  were  still  at  my  front  door  and 
all  around  my  lot,  watching  for  their  prey,  my  wife  succeeded,  thank  God,  in  cov 
ering  rne  with  an  old  dress  and  a  piece  of  old  carpet,  and  thus  getting  me  out  into 
the  garden  and  to  the  refuge  of  a  little  weeping-willow  covered  with  "morning- 
glory"  vines,  where  I  was  secured  from  their  fiendish  gaze  and  saved  from  their 
hellish  thirst  for  my  blood.  I  still  expected  to  be  discovered  and  shot  dead.  But 
a  neighbor  woman  who  had  come  to  our  help  aided  my  wife  in  throwing  a  few 
things,  saved  from  the  fire,  over  and  around  the  little  tree  where  I  lay,  so  as  to 
cover  me  more  securely.  Our  house  and  all  our  clothes — except  a  few  old  and 


648  TIMES  OF  THE  REBELLION. 

broken  garments,  (not  a  full  suit  of  anything  for  one  of  us,)  and  some  carpet — 
with  beds,  books,  and  everything  we  had  to  eat  or  read,  were  consumed  over  us, 
or  before  our  eyes.  But  what  of  that?  I  live !  Through  God's  mercy  I  live  ! 

A  few  days  later,  it  is  stated : 

One  hundred  and  eighty-two  buildings  were  burned,  eighty  of  them  were 
brick;  sixty-five  of  them  were  on  Massachusetts-street.  There  are  eighty-five 
widows  and  two  hundred  and  forty  orphans  made  by  Quantrill's  raid.  Three  men 
have  subscribed  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  to  rebuild  the  Free  State  Hotel, 
known  as  the  Eldridge  Hotel. 

Several  merchants  have  commenced  rebuilding.  All  the  laboring  men  in  town 
will  be  set  to  work  immediately  to  clear  off  the  ruins.  In  spite  of  the  terrible 
calamity,  the  people  are  in  good  spirits.  All  the  towns  in  the  state  have  sent  in 
large  sums  of  money.  Even  the  men  burned  out  on  Quantrill's  retreat  have  sent 
in  loads  of  vegetables  and  provisions. 

Quantrill. — The  infamous  monster  who  perpetrated  the  inhuman  massacre, 
was,  it  is  said,  a  native  of  Maryland.  He  once  lived  in  Cumberland,  in  that  state, 
where  he  attempted  to  kill  his  wife.  For  this,  he  was  placed  in  jail,  where  he 
raged  and  roared  like  a  wild  beast.  He,  finally,  made  his  es  ;ape  to  Kansas, 
where,  for  a  time,  he  was  known  as  a  free  state  man,  and,  as  such,  took  part  in 
the  Kansas  war  in  1855-6,  and  also  in  the  border  fights  in  1861.  For  some  rea 
son,  he  became  estranged  from  the  union  cause,  espoused  that  of  the  rebellion, 
and  became  a  skillful  partisan  leader,  bold,  daring,  and  as  merciless  as  a  hyena. 

Some  time  in  the  year  previous, he  was  surprised  at  night,  with  a  small 

band  of  followers,  by  a  squad  of  federal  troops,  near  Independence,  Missouri. 
His  companions  were  either  killed  or  captured,  but  he  managed  to  escape  in  the 
darkness,  by  plunging  into  the  Missouri  and  swimming  to  the  opposite  shore, 
stopping  at  times  to  heap  the  savagest  curses  upon  his  pursuers. 

It  was  subsequently  ascertained  that  Quantrill's  force  was  composad  of  300  se 
lected  men  from  the  border  counties  of  Missouri.  Gen.  Ewing  in  his  report 
stated  :  With  one  exception,  citizens  along  the  route,  who  could  well  have  given 
the  alarm,  did  not  even  attempt  it.  One  man  excused  himself  for  his  neglect  on 
the  plea  that  his  horses  had  been  working  hard  the  day  before.  A  boy,  living 
ten  or  twelve  miles  from  Lawrence,  begged  his  father  to  let  him  mount  his  pony, 
and,  going  a  by-road,  alarm  the  town,  and  he  was  not  allowed  to  go.  Mr.  J.  Reed, 
living  in  the  Hesper  neighborhood,  near  Eudora,  started  ahead  of  Quantrill  from 
that  place,  to  carry  the  warning  to  Lawrence ;  his  horse  felling  he  was  killed. 

The  guerrillas,  reaching  the  town  at  sunrise,  caught  most  of  the  inhabitants 
asleep,  and  scattered  to  the  various  houses  so  promptly  as  to  prevent  the  concen 
tration  of  any  considerable  number  of  the  men.  After  the  massacre,  Gen.  Bwing 
ordered  all  the  residents  of  Jackson,  Gass,  Bates,  and  part  of  Vernon  counties, 
Mo.,  to  remove  from  their  residences  within  fifteen  days.  The  loyal  people  had 
been  previously  driven  away.  As  his  reason  for  this,  Gen.  Ewing  said :  "  None 
remain  on  their  farms  but  rebel  or  neutral  families;  and,  practically,  the  condi 
tion  of  their  tenure  is,  that  they  shall  feed,  clothe  and  shelter  the  guerrillas,  fur 
nish  them  information  and  deceive  or  withhold  information  from  us." 

In  the  pursuit  which  was  made,  but  few  of  the  robbers  were  killed, 
most  of  them  escaping  with  their  blood-bought  plunder. 

Nothing  more  brutally  and  wantonly  bloody  was  ever  perpetrated  in  any  civil 
ized  or  uncivilized  country.  The  massacre  at  Wyoming  by  the  Indians,  the  mas 
sacre  of  Glencoe  by  English  soldiers,  the  murder  of  Mamalukes  by  Napoleon,  the 
massacre  of  the  .Janissaries  by  Sultan  Mohammed,  the  smothering  of  the  English 
in  the  Black-hole  by  Surajah  Dowlah,  all  acts  which  have  left  an  ineffaceable  stain 
on  the  page  of  history,  and  upon  the  reputations  of  the  nations  committing  them, 
xva«  less  cruel,  causeless,  and  infamous  than  the  massacre  of  Lawrence.  It  will 
go  down  to  future  ages  as  one  of  those  acts  which  are  made  memorable  solely  by 
their  monstrous  character. 


CALIFORNIA, 


CALIFORNIA  is  said,  by  some  writers,  to  signify  in  English,  hot  furnace, 
and  to  be  derived  from  two  Spanish  words,  caliente  fornalla,  or  homo :  but 

this  is  doubtful.  If  true,  however, 
it  is  properly  applied,  as  the  sun 
pours  down  into  the  valleys  through 
a  dry  atmosphere  with  great  power. 
Under  the  Mexicans,  California  was 
in  two  divisions.  Lower  California 
was,  as  now,  the  peninsula.  Upper 
or  New  California  comprised  all  of 
Mexico  north  of  that  point  and  the 
Gila  River,  and  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  containing  nearly  400,000 
square  miles.  The  greater  part  of 
New  Mexico,  and  of  Utah,  and  all  of 
the  state  of  California,  comprised  the 
original  Upper  California. 

"  California  was  discovered  in  1548, 
by  Cabrillo,  a  Spanish  navigator.  In 
1758,  Sir  Francis  Drake  visited  its 
northern  coast,  and  named  the  coun 
try  New  Albion.  The  original  settlements  in  California  were  mission  estab 
lishments,  founded  by  Catholic  priests  for  the  conversion  of  the  natives.  In 
1769,  the  mission  of  San  Diego  was  founded  by  Padre  Junipero  Serra. 

The  mission  establishments  were  made  of  adobe,  or  sun  burnt  bricks,  and 
contained  commodious  habitations  for  the  priests,  store -houses,  offices,  me 
chanic  shops,  granaries,  horse  and  cattle  pen»,  and  apartments  for  the  instruc 
tion  of  Indian  youth.  Around  and  attached  to  each,  were,  varying  in  dif 
ferent  missions,  from  a  few  hundred  to  several  thousand  Indians,  who  gen 
erally  resided  in  conical-shaped  huts  in  the  vicinity,  their  place  of  dwelling 
being  generally  called  the  rancheria.  Attached  to  each  mission  were  a  few 
soldiers,  for  protection  against  hostilities  from  the  Indians. 

The  missions  extended  their  possessions  from  one  extreme  of  the  territory 
to  that  of  the  other,  and  bounded  the  limits  of  one  mission  by  that  of  the 
next,  and  so  on.  Though  they  did  not  require  so  much  land  for  agriculture, 


ARMS  OF  CALIFORNIA. 
MOTTO — Eureka — I  have  found  it. 


£50  CALIFORNIA. 

and  the  maintenance  of  their  stock,  they  appropriated  the  whole ;  always 
strongly  opposing  any  individual  who  might  wish  to  settle  on  any  land  be 
tween  them. 

All  the  missions  were  under  the  charge  of  the  priests  of  the  order  of  San  Fran 
cisco.  Each  mission  was  under  one  of  the  fathers,  who  had  despotic  authority. 
The  general  products  of  the  missions  were  large  cattle,  sheep,  horses,  Indian  corn, 
beans  and  peas.  Those  in  the  southern  part  of  California,  produced  also  the  grape 
and  olive  in  abundance.  The  most  lucrative  product  was  the  large  cattle,  their 
hides  and  tallow  affording  an  active  commerce  with  foreign  vessels,  and  being,  in 
deed,  the  main  support  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  territory. 

From  1800  to  1830,  the  missions  were  in  the  hight  of  their  prosperity.  Then, 
each  mission  was  a  little  principality,  with  its  hundred  thousand  acres  and  its 
twenty  thousand  head  of  cattle.  All  the  Indian  population,  except  the  "  Gentiles  " 
of  the  mountains,  were  the  subjects  of  the  padres,  cultivating  for  them  their  broad 
lands,  and  reverencing  them  with  devout  faith. 

The  wealth  and  power  in  possession  of  the  missions,  excited  the  jealousy  of  the 
Mexican  authorities.  In  1833,  the  government  commenced  a  series  of  decrees, 
which  eventually  ruined  them.  In  1845,  the  obliteration  of  the  missions  was  com 
pleted  by  their  sale  at  auction,  and  otherwise. 

Aside  from  the. missions,  in  California,  the  inhabitants  were  nearly  all  gathered 
in  the  presidios,  or  forts,  and  in  the  villages,  called  'Los  Pueblos.1  The  presidios, 
or  fortresses,  were  occupied  by  a  few  troops  under  the  command  of  a  military  pre 
fect  or  governor.  The  Padre  President,  or  Bishop,  was  the  supreme  civil,  military 
and  religious  ruler  of  the  province.  There  were  four  presidios  in  California,  each 
of  which  had  under  its  protection  several  missions.  They  were  respectively,  San 
Diego,  Santa  Barbara,  Monterey,  and  San  Francisco. 

Within  four  or  five  leagues  of  the  presidios,  were  certain  farms,  called  ranchios, 
which  were  assigned  for  the  use  of  the  garrisons,  and  as  depositories  of  the  cattle 
and  grain  which  were  furnished  as  taxes  from  the  missions. 

Los  Pueblos,  or  towns,  grew  up  near  the  missions.  Their  first  inhabitants  con 
sisted  of  retired  soldiers  and  attaches  of  the  army,  many  of  whom  married  Indian 
women.  Of  the  villages  of  this  description,  there  were  but  three,  viz  :  Los  Ange- 
los,  San  Jose,  and  Branciforte.  In  later  times,  the  American  emigrants  established 
one  on  the  Bay  of  San.  Francisco,  called  Yerba  Buena,  i.  e.  good  herb,  which  be 
came  the  nucleus  of  the  flourishing  city  of  San  Francisco.  Another  was  estab 
lished  by  Capt.  Sutter,  on  the  Sacramento,  called  New  Helvetia.  The  larger  pue 
blos  were  under  the  government  of  an  alcalde,  or  judge,  in  connection  with  other 
municipal  officers. 

The  policy  of  the  Catholic  priests,  who  held  absolute  sway  in  California,  until 
1833,  was  to  discourage  emigration.  Hence,  up  to  about  the  year  1840,  the  villages 
named  comprised  all  in  California,  independent  of  those  at  the  missions ;  and  at 
that  time,  the  free  whites  and  half-breed  inhabitants  in  California  numbered  less 
than  six  thousand  souls.  The  emigration  from  the  United  States  first  commenced 
in  1838;  this  had  so  increased  from  year  to  year,  that,  in  1846,  Col.  Fremont  had 
but  little  difficulty  in  calling  to  his  aid  some  five  hundred  fighting  men.  Some  few 
resided  in  the  towns,  but  a  majority  were  upon  the  Sacramento,  where  they  had 
immense  droves  of  cattle  and  horses,  and  fine  farms,  in  the  working  of  which  they 
were  aided  by  the  Indians.  They  were  eminently  an  enterprising  and  courageous 
body  of  people,  as  none  other  at  that  time  would  brave  the  perils  of  an  overland 
journey  across  the  mountains.  In  the  ensuing  hostilities  they  rendered  important 
services. 

At  that  period,  the  trade  carried  on  at  the  different  towns  was  quite  extensive, 
and  all  kinds  of  dry  goods,  groceries  and  hardware,  owing  to  the  heavy  duties, 
ranged  about  five  hundred  per  cent,  above  the  prices  in  the  United  States,  Me 
chanics  and  ordinary  hands  received  from  two  to  five  dollars  per  day.  The  com 
merce  was  quite  extensive,  fifteen  or  twenty  vessels  not  un frequently  being  seen 
in  the  various  ports  at  the  same  time.  Most  of  the  merchant  vessels  were  from 
the  United  States,  which  arrived  in  the  spring,  and  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade 
until  about  the  beginning  of  winter,  when  they  departed  with  cargoes  of  hides, 


CALIFORNIA. 


651 


tallow  or  furs,  which  had  been  collected  during  the  previous  year.  Whale  ships 
also  touched  at  the  ports  for  supplies  and  to  trade,  and  vessels  from  various  parts 
•of  Europe,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  the  Russian  settlements,  and  China." 

From  1826  to  1846,  the  date  of  the  conquest  of  California  by  the  United  States, 
there  had  been  numerous  civil  revolutions  in  California;  but  Mexican  authority 
was  generally  paramount.  Of  its  conquest  we  give  a  brief  account. 

In  July,  1846,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Mexican  war,  an  American  naval  force, 
under  Commodore  Sloat,  took  Monterey  and  San  Francisco.  Sloat  then  dispatched 
a  party  to  the  mission  of  St.  John,  who  there  found  that  the  American  flag  had 
been  raised  by  Fremont.  This  officer,  on  his  third  exploring  expedition,  had  arrived 
near  Monterey  in  the  preceding  January,  some  months  prior  to  the  commencement 
of  the  war.  Learning  that  Gen.  De  Castro,  the  military  commandant  at  that  place, 
intended  to  drive  him  from  the  country,  he  took  a  strong  position  in  the  mountains 
with  his  small  party  of  62  men,  raised  the  American  flag,  and  prepared  for  resist 
ance.  De  Castro  relinquished  his  design,  but  later  prepared  an  expedition  for  So 
noma,  to  expel  all  the  American  settlers  from  the  country.  Fremont,  on  learning 
this,  took  Sonoma  on  the  15th  of  June  by  surprise,  captured  Gen.  Vallejo  and  other 
officers,  9  cannon,  250  muskets,  and  a  quantity  of  military  stores.  On  the  4th  of 
July,  Fremont  assembled  the  American  settlers  at  Sonoma,  and  by  his  advice  they 
-.raised  the  revolutionary  flag,  and  prepared  to  fight  for  their  independence.  A  few 
days  later  they  learned,  through  the  operations  of  Commodore  Sloat,  of  the  exist 
ence  of  war,  and  the  star  spangled  banner  was  substituted  for  the  standard  of 
revolt. 

Soon  after,  Fremont  united  his  force  of  160  men  to  the  marines  of  Commodore 
Stockton,  and  they  sailed  to  San  Diego.  From  thence  they  marched  up  and  took 
Los  Angelos,  the  seat  of  government.  Stockton  established  a  civil  government, 
and  proclaimed  himself  governor.  In  September,  Los  Angelos  being  left  with  a 
small  garrison,  under  Capt.  Gillespie,  was  taken  by  a  superior  Mexican  force  led  by 
Ge n s.  Flores  and  Pico. 

1 1)  November,  the  army  of  Gen.  Kearney,  having  conquered  New  Mexico,  arrived 
in  their  overland  march  across  the  continent,  on  the  southern  borders  of  Califor 
nia,  On  the  6th  of  December,  an  advance  party  of  12  dragoons  and  30  volunteers 
ln<l  a  battle  with  160  mounted  Mexicans  near  San  Pasqual.  The  Americans  were 
victorious.  Gen.  Kearney  was  twice  wounded,  Capts.  Johnson  and  Moore,  Lieut. 
Hiinunond  and  most  of  the  other  officers,  together  with  nineteen  of  the  men,  were 
either  killed  or  wounded. 

On  the  29th  of  December,  Kearney  took  command  of  five  hundred  marines,  with  the 
land  forces,  and  moved  toward  Angelos,  to  co-operate  with  Col.  Fremont  in  quelling  the 
revolt,  now  backed  by  a  Mexican  army  of  six  hundred  men,  under  Gens.  Flores  and  Pico. 
These  forces  be  met  and  defeated  at  San  Gabriel  on  the  8th  of  January.  The  next  day, 
he  again  fought  and  routed  them  at  Mesa.  The  Mexicans  then  marched  twelve  miles 
past  Angelos  to  Cowenga,  where  they  capitulated  to  Col.  Fremont,  who  had,  after  a 
tedious,  wintry  march  from  the  north,  of  four  hundred  miles,  arrived  at  that  place. 

On  the  16th  of  January,  Com.  Stockton  commissioned  Fremont  as  governor,  the  duties 
of  which  he  had  discharged  about  six  weeks,  when  Gen.  Kearney,  according  to  orders  re 
ceived  from  government,  assumed  the  office  and  title  of  governor  of  California.  Com. 
Shubrick,  who  was  now  the  naval  commander,  co-operated  with  Kearney,  whose  forces 
were  augmented  about  the  last  of  January,  by  the  arrival  of  Col.  Cooke  with  the  Mor 
mon  battalion,  which  had  marched  from  Council  Bluffs  to  Santa  Fe. 

Gen.  Kearney,  by  direction  of  government,  placing  Col.  Mason  in  the  office  of  governor, 
on  the  16th  of  June  took  his  way  homeward  across  the  northern  part  of  California,  and 
from  thence  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  through  the  South  Pass. 

Before  the  news  of  peace  was  received  in  California,  a  new  era  commenced  in  the  dis 
covery  of  the  gold  mines.  The  peculiar  state  of  affairs  brought  about  by  this,  with  the 
great  rush  of  population,  was  such  that  the  people  were  in  a  measure  compelled  to  form  a 
constitution  of  state  government.  The  convention,  for  this  purpose,  met  at  Monterey  in 
18  19,  and  on  the  12th  of  October,  formed  the  constitution,  which  was  adopted  by  the  peo 
ple.  After  much  delay,  California  was  admitted  into  the  Union  by  action  of  congress,  in 
September,  1850. 

The  first  officers  elected  under  the  state  constitution  were,  Peter  H.  Burnett,  governor; 
John  McDoutral,  lieut.  governor;  John  C.  Fremont,  "Wm.  M.  Gwin,  U.  S.  senators;  Geo. 
W.  Wright,  Edward  Gilbert,  U.  S.  representatives:  Wm.  Van  Vorhies,  secretary  of  state; 


652  CALIFORNIA. 

Richard  Roman,  treasurer;  J.  S.  Houston,  comptroller;  Ed.  J.  C.  Kewen,  attorney  gen 
eral;  Chas.  J.  Whiting,  surveyor  general;  S.  C.  Hastings,  chief  justice;  and  J.  A.  Lyon 
and  Nathaniel  Bennett,  associates-. 

California,  one  of  the  Pacific  states,  is  about  750  miles  long,  with  an 
average  breadth  of  about  200  miles,  giving  an  area  of  150,000  square 
miles.  Its  southern  boundary  approximates  in  latitude  to  that  of  Charles 
ton,  South  Carolina:  its  northern  to  that  of  Boston,  Massachusetts.  This, 
with  its  variation  of  surface,  gives  it  a  diversity  of  climate,  and  consequently 
of  productions.  Geographically,  its  position  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world, 
lying  on  the  Pacific  fronting  Asia. 

"California  is  a  country  of  mountains  and  valleys.  The  principal  mountains  are 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  i.  e.  snowy  mountains.  This  sierra  is  part  of  the  great  moun 
tain  range,  which,  under  different  names,  extends  from  the  peninsula  of  California 
to  Russian  America,  Rising  singly,  like  pyramids,  from  heavily  timbered  plateaux, 
to  the  bight  of  fourteen  and  seventeen  thousand  feet  above  the  ocean,  these  snowy 
peaks  constitute  the  characterizing  feature  of  the  range,  and  distinguish  it  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains  and  all  others  on  our  part  of  the  continent.  The  Sierra,  Ne 
vada  is  the  grandest  feature  of  the  scenery  of  California,  and  must  be  well  under 
stood  before  the  structure  of  the  country  and  the  character  of  its  different  divis 
ions  can  be  comprehended.  Stretching  along  the  coast,  and  at  the  general  dis 
tance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  it,  this  great  mountain  wall  receives  the 
warm  win>ls,  charged  with  vapor,  which  sweep  across  the  Pacific  Ocean,  precipi 
tates  their  accumulated  moisture  in  fertilizing  rains  and  snows  upon  its  western 
flank,  and  leaves  cold  and  dry  winds  to  pass  on  to  the  east.  The  region  east  of  the 
sierra  is  comparatively  barren  and  cold,  and  the  climates  are  distinct.  Thus,  while 
in  December  the  eastern  side  is  winter,  the  ground  being  covered  with  snow  and 
the  rivers  frozen,  on  the  west  it  is  spring,  the  air  being  soft,  and  the  grass  fresh 
and  «rreen.  West  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  the  inhabitable  part  of  California. 
North  and  south,  this  region  extends  about  ten  degrees  of  latitude,  from  Oregon  to 
the  peninsula  of  California.  East  and  west  it  averages,  in  the  middle  part,  one 
hundred  and  fifty,  and  in  the  northern  part,  two  hundred  miles,  giving  an  area  of 
about  100,000  square  miles.  Looking  westward  from  the  summit,  the  main  feature 
presented  is  the  long,  low,  broad  valley  of  the  Joaquin  and  Sacramento  Rivers — 
the  two  valleys  forming  one,  five  hundred  miles  long  and  fifty  broad,  lying  along 
the  base  of  the  sierra,  and  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  low  coast  range  of 
mountains,  which  separates  it  from  the  sea.  Side  ranges,  parallel  to  the  sierra 
and  the  coast,  make  the  structure  of  the  remainder  of  California,  and  break  it 
into  a  surface  of  valleys  and  mountains — the  valleys  a  few  hundred,  and  the  moun 
tains  two  or  three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  These  form  great  masses,  and  at 
the  north  become  more  elevated,  where  some  peaks,  as  the  Shaste — which  rises 
fourteen  thousand  feet,  nearly  to  the  hight  of  Mont  Blanc — enter  the  region  of 
perpetual  snow.  The  two  rivers,  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  rising  at  opposite 
ends  of  the  same  great  valley,  receive  their  numerous  streams,  many  of  them  bold 
rivers,  unite  half  way,  and  enter  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  together." 

Greeley,  in  his  letters  written  in  1859,  gives  a  clear  view  of  the  resources 
of  California.  We  here  copy  from  them  in  an  abridged  form.  The  first 
quoted  from  was  written  at  San  Jose. 

The  state  of  California  may  be  roughly  characterized  as  two  ranges  of  moun 
tains — a  large  and  a  small  one — with  a  great  valley  between  them,  and  a  narrow, 
irregular  counterpart  separating  the  smaller  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  If  we  add 
to  these  a  small  strip  of  arid,  but  fertile  coast,  and  a  broad  sandy  desert  behind  it, 
lying  south-west  of  California  proper,  and  likely  one  day  to  be  politically  severed 
from  it,  we  have  a  sufficiently  accurate  outline  of  the  topography  of  the  Golden 
State. 

Such  a  region,  stretching  from  N.  lat.  32  deg.  30  min.  up  to  lat.  42  deg.,  and 
rising  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  up  to  perpetually  snow-covered  peaks  15,000  feet 


CALIFORNIA. 


653 


high,  can  hardly  be  said  to  have  a  climate.  Aside  from  the  Alpine  crests  of  the 
sierra,  and  the  sultry  deserts  below  the  Mohave  and  Santa  Barbara,  California  em 
bodies  almost  every  gradation  of  climate,  from  the  semi-arctic  to  the  semi-tropical. 
There  are  green,  fertile  fields  in  the  sierra  which  only  begin  to  be  well  grassed 
when  the  herbage  of  the  great  valley  is  drying  up,  and  from  which  the  cattle  are 
driven  by  snows  as  early  as  the  1st  of  October — long  before  grass  begins  to  start 
afresh  on  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento.  There  are  other  valleys  upon  and  near 
the  sea-coast,  wherein  frost  and  snow  are  strangers,  rarely  seen,  and  vanishing  with 
the  night  that  gave  them  being.  Generally,  however,  we  may  say  of  the  state  that 
it  has  a  mild,  dry,  breezy,  healthy  climate,  better  than  that  of  Italy,  in  that  the  sultry, 
scorching  blasts  from  African  deserts  have  here  no  counterpart.  Save  in  the 
higher  mountains,  or  in  the  extreme  north-east,  snow  never  lies,  the  earth  never 
freezes,  and  winter  is  but  a  milder,  greener,  longer  spring,  throughout  which  cattle 
pick  up  their  own  living  far  more  easily  and  safely  than  in  summer. 

The  climate  of  the  valleys  may  be  said  to  be  created,  as  that  of  the  mountains 
is  modified,  by  the  influence  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Sea  breezes  from  the  south 
west  in  winter,  from  the  north-west  in  summer,  maintain  an  equilibrium  of  tem 
perature  amazing  to  New  Bnglanders.  San  Francisco — situated  on  the  great  bay 
formed  by  the  passage  of  the  blended  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  the  San  Joaquin 
— the  former  draining  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  from  the  north,  as 
the  latter  does  from  the  south — is  thus,  as  it  were,  in  the  throat  of  the  bellows 
through  which  the  damp  gales  from  the  Pacific  are  constantly  rushing  to  cool  the 
parched  slopes  or  warm  the  snow-clad  hights  of  the  interior.  I  presume  there  was 
never  a  day  without  a  breeze  at  San  Francisco — generally  a  pretty  stiff  one.  This 
sea  breeze  is  always  damp,  often  chilly,  and  rolls  up  clouds  which  hide  the  sun  for 
a  part,  at  least,  of  most  days.  Though  ice  seldom  forms,  and  snow  never  lies  in 
her  streets,  San  Francisco  must  be  regarded  as  a  cold  place  by  most  of  her  visiters 
and  unacclimated  summer  denizens.  I  presume  a  hot  day  was  never  known  there, 
and  no  night  in  which  a  pair  of  good  woolen  blankets  were  not  esteemed  a  shelter 
and  a  comfort  by  all  but  extremely  hot-blooded  people.  Thick  flannels  and  warm 
woolen  outer  garments  are  worn  throughout  the  year  by  all  who  have  or  can  get 
them.  In  short,  San  Francisco  is  in  climate  what  London  would  be  with  her  sum 
mer  rains  transformed  into  stiff  and  almost  constant  breezes. 

The  soil  of  California  is  almost  uniformly  good.  The  valleys  and  ravines  re 
joice  in  a  generous  depth  of  dark  vegetable  mold,  usually  mingled  with  or  resting 
on  clay ;  while  the  less  precipitous  hill  sides  are  covered  with  a  light  reddish  clayey 
loam  of  good  quality,  asking  only  adequate  moisture  to  render  it  amply  productive. 
Bring  a  stream  of  water  almost  anywhere,  save  on  the  naked  granite,  and  you  in 
cite  a  luxuriant  vegetation. 

Yet  the  traveler  who  first  looks  down  on  the  valleys  and  lower  hill-sides  of  Cali 
fornia  in  midsummer  is  generally  disappointed  by  the  all  but  universal  deadness. 
Some  hardy  weeds,  a  little  sour,  coarse  grass  along  the  few  still  living  water  courses, 
some  small,  far-between  gardens  and  orchards  rendered  green  and  thrifty  by  irri 
gation,  form  striking  exceptions  to  the  general  paralysis  of  all  annual  manifesta 
tions  of  vegetable  life. 

....  These  slopes,  these  vales,  now  so  dead  and  cheerless,  are  but  resting  from 
their  annual  and  ever  successful  efforts  to  contribute  bountifully  to  the  sustenance 
and  comfort  of  man.  Summer  is  their  season  of  torpor,  as  winter  is  ours.  Dead 
as  these  wheat  fields  now  appear,  the  stubble  is  thick  arid  stout,  and  its  indications 
are  more  than  justified  by  the  harvest  they  have  this  year  yielded. 

Cattle  growing  was  the  chief  employment  of  the  Californians  of  other  days,  and 
cattle-growing,  next  after  mining,  is  the  chief  business  of  the  Californians  of  1859. 
There  are  comparatively  few  farms  yet  established,  while  ranches  abound  on  every 
side.  A  corral,  into  which  to  drive  his  wild  herd  Avhen  use  or  security  is  in  ques 
tion,  and  a  field  or  two  in  which  to  pasture  his  milch  cows  and  working  cattle,  are 
often  nil  of  the  rancAethat  is  inclosed;  the  herd  is  simply  branded  with  the  owner's 
mark  and  turned  out  to  range  where  they  will,  being  looked  after  occasional ly  by 
a  mounted  ranchero,  whose  horse  is  trained  to  dexterity  in  running  among  or 
around  them. 

Fruit,  however,  is  destined  to  be  the  ultimate  glory  of  California.     Nowhere  else 


654  CALIFORNIA. 

on  earth  is  it  produced  so  readily  or  so  bountifully.  Such  pears,  peaches,  apricots, 
nectarines,  etc.,  as  load  the  trees  of  nearly  every  valley  in  the  state  which  has  had 
&ny  chance  to  produce  them,  would  stagger  the  faith  of  nine  tenths  of  1*15  readers. 
Peach  trees  only  six  years  set,  which  have  borne  four  large  burdens  of  fruit  while 
growing  luxuriantly  each  year,  are  quite  common.  Apple  trees,  but  three  years 
set,  yet  showing  at  least  a  bushel  of  large,  fair  fruit,  are  abundant.  I  have  seen 
peach  trees  four  or  five  years  from  the  states  which  have  all  the  fruit  they  can 
stagger  under,  yet  have  grown  three  feet  of  new  wood  over  this  load  during  the 
current  season.  Dwarf  pears,  just  stuck  into  the  black  loam,  and  nowise  fertilized 
or  cultivated,  but  covered  with  fruit  the  year  after  they  were  set,  and  thencefor 
ward  bearing  larger  and  larger  yields  with  each  succeeding  summer,  are  seen  in 
almost  every  tolerably  cared-for  fruit  patch.  I  can  not  discover  an  instance  in 
which  any  fruit-tree,  having  borne  largely  one  year,  consults  its  dignity  or  its  ease 
by  standing  still  or  growing  wood  only  the  next  year,  as  is  common  our  way.  ] 
have  seen  green  gages  and  other  plum-trees  so  thickly  set  with  fruit  that  1  am  sure 
the  plums  would  far  outweigh  the  trees,  leaves  and  all.  And  not  one  borer,  curcu- 
Ho,  caterpillar,  apple-worm,  or  other  nuisance  of  that  large  and  undelightful  family^ 
appears  to  be  known  in  all  this  region.  Under  a  hundred  fruit-trees,  you  will  not 
see  one  bulb  which  has  prematurely  fallen — a  victim  to  this  destructive  brood. 

That  California  is  the  richest  of  all  the  American  states  in  timber,  as  well  as  in 
minerals,  I  consider  certain,  though  the  forests  of  Oregon  are  doubtless  stately  and 
vast.  Even  the  Coast  Range  between  San  Jose  valley  and  Santa  Cruz  on  the  south 
west,  is  covered  by  magnificent  redwood — some  of  the  trees  sixteen  feet  through, 
and  fifty  in  circumference.  In  soil,  I  can  not  consider  her  equal  to  Illinois,  Iowa, 
Kansas,  or  Minnesota,  though  the  ready  markets  afforded  by  her  mines  to  her  farms 
probably  render  this  one  of  the  most  inviting  states  to  the  enterprising,  energetic 
husbandman.  But  it  must  be  considered  that  not  half  the  soil  of  California  can 
ever  be  deemed  arable;  the  larger  area  being  covered  by  mountains,  ravines, 
deserts,  etc. 

The  persistent  summer  drouth  is  not  an  unmixed  evil.  It  is  a  guaranty  against 
many  insects,  and  against  rust,  even  in  the  heaviest  grain.  Grain  and  hay  are  got 
in  at  far  less  cost  and  in  much  better  average  condition  here  than  they  can  be 
where  the  summers  are  not  cloudless  nor  rainless.  Weeds  are  far  less  persistent 
and  pestilent  here  than  at  the  east;  while  the  air  is  so  uniformly  dry  and  bracing, 
and  the  days  so  generally  tempered  by  a  fresh  breeze,  that  the  human  frame  main 
tains  its  elasticity  in  spite  of  severe  and  continued  exertion.  I  was  never  before 
in  a  region  where  so  much  could  be  accomplished  to  the  hand  in  summer  as  just 
here. 

Irrigation  is  exceptional,  even  here.  All  the  grains  are  grown  here  without  irri 
gation;  but  the  small  grains  are  hurried  up  quite  sharply  by  drouth,  and  in  some 
instances  blighted  by  it,  and  at  best  are  doubtless  much  lighter  than  they  would 
be  with  a  good,  soaking  rain  early  in  June ;  while  Indian  corn  arid  most  roots  and 
vegetables  can  only  in  favored  localities  be  grown  to  perfection  without  artificial 
watering.  I  estimate  that,  if  all  the  arable  land  in  the  state,  fertile  as  it  undoubt 
edly  is,  were  seasonably  planted  to  corn  and  fairly  cultivated,  without  irrigation, 
the  average  yield  would  fall  below  ten  bushels  per  acre.  Hence  every  garden 
throughout  the  state,  save  a  part  of  those  near  the  coast  and  within  the  immediate 
influence  of  the  damp  sea  breeze,  must  have  its  stream  of  water  or  it  comes  to 
nothing,  and  various  devices  are  employed  to  procure  the  needful  fluid.  Of  these 
I  like  Artesian  wells  far  best;  and  they  are  already  numerous,  especially  in  this 
valley.  But  ordinary  wells,  surmounted  by  windmills  which  press  every  casual 
breeze  into  the  service  and  are  often  pumping  up  a  good  stream  of  water  while  the 
owner  and  all  hands  are  asleep,  are  much  more  common,  and  are  found  to  answer 
very  well;  while  some  keep  their  little  gardens  in  fair  condition  by  simply  draw 
ing  water,  bucket  after  bucket,  in  the  old,  hard  way. 

In  a  subsequent  letter,  written  from  Marysville,  the  chief  town  of  north 
ern  California,  at  the  junction  of  the  Yuba  and  Feather  Rivers,  Mr.  Gree- 
ley  gives  a  description  of  what  he  saw  of  the  agricultural  riches  of  that 
fertile  region.  We  again  quote  : 


CALIFORNIA.  555 

The  edifice  erected  by  the  public  spirit  of  Marysville  for  the  fairs  which  are  to 
be  held  here  annually,  and  at  which  all  northern  California  is  invited  to  compete 
for  very  liberal  premiums,  is  quite  spacious  and  admirably  adapted  to  its  purpose ; 
and  herein  is  collected  the  finest  show  of  fruits  and  vegetables  1  ever  saw  at  any 
thing  but  a  state  fair.  Indian  corn  not  less  than  twenty  feet  high;  squashes  like 
brass  kettles  and  water-melons  of  the  size  of  buckets,  are  but  average  samples  of 
the  wonderful  productiveness  of  the  Sacramento  and  Yuba  valleys,  while  the 
peaches,  plums,  pears,  grapes,  apples,  etc.,  could  hardly  be  surpassed  anywhere. 
The  show  of  animals  is  not  extensive,  but  is  very  fine  in  the  departments  of  horses 
and  horned  cattle.  The  most  interesting  feature  of  this  show  was  its  young  stock 
— calves  and  colts  scarcely  more  than  a  year  old,  equal  in  weight  and  size,  while 
far  superior  in  form  and  symmetry,  to  average  horses  and  bulls  of  ripe  maturity. 
With  generous  fare  and  usage,  I  am  confident  that  steers  and  heifers  two  years 
old  in  California  will  equal  in  size  and  development  those  a  year  older  in  our  north 
ern  states,  and  California  colts  of  three  years  be  fully  equal  to  eastern  colts  of  like 
blood  and  breeding  a  good  year  older — an  immense  advantage  to  the  breeder  on 
the  Pacific.  T  am  reliably  assured  that  steers  a  year  old,  never  fed  but  on  wild 
grass,  and  never  sheltered,  have  here  dressed  six  hundred  pounds  of  fine  beef. 
Undoubtedly,  California  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and  best  stock  growing  countries  in 
the  world — and  will  be,  after  these  great,  slovenly  ranches  shall  have  been  broken 
up  into  neat,  modest  farms,  and  when  the  cattle  shall  be  fed  at  least  three  months 
in  each  year  on  roots,  hay  and  sorghum,  or  other  green  fodder. 

The  valleys  of  the  Yuba  and  Feather  Rivers  are  exceedingly  deep  and  fertile, 
and  their  productiveness  in  this  vicinity  almost  surpasses  belief.  I  visited  this 
morning,  in  the  suburbs,  gardens,  vineyards,  orchards,  of  rarely  equaled  fruitful- 
ness.  The  orchard  of  Mr.  Briggs,  for  example,  covers  160  acres,  all  in  young  fruit, 
probably  one  half  peaches.  He  has  had  a  squad  of  thirty  or  forty  men  picking 
and  boxing  peaches  for  the  last  month,  yet  his  fruit  by  the  cartload  ripens  and  rots 
ungathered.  The  wagons  which  convey  it  to  the  mines  have  their  regular  stations 
and  relays  of  horses  like  mail  stages,  and  are  thus  pulled  sixty  miles  up  rough 
mountain  passes,  per  dav,  where  twenty-five  miles  would  be  a  heavy  day's  work  for 
any  one  team.  But  he  is  not  sending  to  the  mines  only,  but  by  steamboat  to  Sac 
ramento  and  San  Francisco  as  well.  His  sales  last  year,  I  am  told,  amounted  to 
$90,000;  his  net  income  was  not  less  than  $40,000.  And  this  was  realized  mainly 
from  peaches,  apricots  and  nectarines;  his  apples  and  pears  have  barely  begun  to 
bear;  his  cherries  will  yield  their  first  crop  next  year.  There  are  of  course  heavier 
fruit  growers  in  California  than  Mr.  Briggs,  but  he  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  sample 
of  the  class.  Their  sales  will  doubtless  be  made  at  lower  and  still  lower  prices; 
they  are  now  a  little  higher  than  those  realized  for  similar  fruit  grown  in  New 
Jersey;  they  were  once  many  times  higher  than  now;  but,  though  their  prices 
steadily  decrease  their  incomes  do  not,  because  their  harvests  continued  to  be  aug 
mented  by  at  least  twenty  five  per  cent,  per  annum. 

Let  me  give  one  other  instance  of  successful  fruit  growing  in  another  district: 
Mr.  Fallen,  the  mayor  of  San  Jose,  has  a  fine  garden,  in  which  are  some  ten  or 
twelve  old  pear  trees — relics  of  the  Spanish  era  and  of  the  Jesuit  missions.  The 
trees  being  thrifty  but  the  fruit  indifferent,  Mr.  F.  had  them  pretty  thoroughly 
grafted  with  the  Bartlett  variety,  and  the  second  year  thereafter  gathered  from  one 
tree  one  thousand  pounds  of  Bartlett  pears,  which  he  sold  for  $200,  or  twenty  cents 
per  pound.  The  other  trees  similarly  treated  bore  him  six  to  seven  hundred  pounds 
each  of  that  large,  delicious  fruit,  which  he  sold  at  the  same  price.  And,  every 
year  since,  these  trees  have  borne  large  yields  of  these  capital  pears. 

Just  a  word  now  on  grain.  California  is  still  a  young  state,  whose  industry  and 
enterprise  are  largely  devoted  to  mining;  yet  she  grows  the  bread  of  her  half  a 
million  well-fed  inhabitants  on  less  than  a  fortieth  part  of  her  arable  soil,  and  will 
this  year  have  some  to  spare.  I  am  confident  her  wheat  crop  of  1859,  is  over  four 
millions  of  bushels,  and  I  think  it  exceeds  twenty-five  bushels  for  each  acre  sown. 
To  day,  its  price  in  San  Francisco  is  below  a  dollar  a  bushel,  and  it  is  not  likely 
to  rise  very  soon.  Though  grown,  harvested  and  threshed  by  the  help  of  labor 
which  costs  her  farmers  from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  per  month,  beside  board,  it  is 
still  mainly  grown  at  a  profit;  and  so  of  a  very  large  breadth  of  barley,  grown 


656  CALIFORNIA. 

here  instead  of  oats  as  food  for  working  horses  and  cattle.  Thougn  wheat  is  prob 
ably  the  fullest,  I  judj^e  that  barley  is  the  surest  of  any  grain  crop  grown  in  the 
state.  It  has  never  failed  to  any  serious  extent. 

Indian  corn  is  not  extensively  grown;  only  the  Russian  River  and  one  or  two 
other  small  valleys  are  generally  supposed  well  adapted  to  it.  And  yet,  I  never 
saw  larger  or  better  corn  growing  than  stands  to-day  right  here  on  the  Yuba — not 
a  few  acres  merely,  but  hundreds  of  acres  in  a  body.  I  judge  that  nearly  all  the 
intervales  throughout  the  state  would  produce  good  corn,  if  well  treated.  On  the 
hill-sides,  irrigation  may  be  necessary,  but  not  in  the  valleys.  None  has  been  re 
sorted  to  here,  yet  the  yield  of  shelled  grain  will  range  between  75  and  100  bush 
els  per  acre.  And  this  is  no  solitary  instance.  Back  of  Oakland,  across  the  bay 
from  San  Francisco,  Mr.  Hobart,  a  good  farmer  from  Massachusetts,  showed  me 
acres  of  heavy  corn  which  he  planted  last  May,  after  the  rains  had  ceased  and  the 
dry  season  fairly  set  in,  since  which  no  hoe  nor  plow  had  been  put  into  the  field ; 
yet  the  soil  remains  light  and  porous,  while  there  are  very  few  weeds.  Not  one 
drop  of  water  has  been  applied  to  this  farm ;  yet  here  are  not  only  corn,  but  pota 
toes,  beets,  etc.,  with  any  number  of  young  fruit  trees,  all  green  and  thriving,  by 
virtue  of  subsoiling  and  repeated  plowings  last  spring.  The  ground  (sward)  was 
broken  up  early  in  the  winter,  and  cross-plowed  whenever  weeds  showed  their 
heads,  until  planting  time;  and  this  discipline,  aided  by  the  drouth,  has  prevented 
their  starting  during  the  summer.  Such  thorough  preparation  for  a  crop  costs 
something;  but,  this  once  made,  the  crop  needs  here  only  to  be  planted  and  har 
vested.  Such  farming  pays. 

The  fig  tree  grows  in  these  valleys  side  by  side  with  the  apple;  ripe  figs  are  now 
gathered  daily  from  nearly  all  the  old  Mexican  gardens.  The  olive  grows  finely 
in  southern  California,  and  I  believe  the  orange  and  lemon  as  well.  But  the  grape 
bids  fair  to  become  a  staple  throughout  the  state.  Almost  every  farmer  who  feels 
sure  of  his  foothold  on  the  land  he  cultivates  either  has  his  vineyard  already 
planted,  or  is  preparing  to  plant  one,  while  most  of  those  who  have  planted  are  ex 
tending  from  year  to  year.  I  have  looked  through  many  of  these  vineyards,  with 
out  finding  one  that  is  not  thrifty — one  that,  if  two  years  planted,  is  not  now  loaded 
with  fruit.  The  profusion  and  weight  of  the  clusters  is  marvelous  to  the  fresh  be 
holder.  I  will  not  attempt  to  give  figures;  but  it  is  my  deliberate  judgment  that 
grapes  may  be  grown  here  as  cheaply  as  wheat  or  corn,  pound  for  pound,  and  that 
wine  will  ultimately  be  made  hero  at  a  cost  per  gallon  not  exceeding  that  of  whisky 
in  Illinois  or  Ohio.  Wine  will  doubtless  constitute  a  heavy  export  of  California 
within  a  very  few  years.  So,  I  think,  will  choice  timber,  should  the  wages  of  labor 
ever  fall  here  so  as  to  approximate  our  eastern  standards. 

I  can  not  conclude  this  survey  without  alluding  once  more  to  the  deplorable  con 
fusion  and  uncertainty  of  land  titles  which  has  been  and  still  is  the  master  scourge 
of  this  state.  The  vicious  Spanish-Mexican  system  of  granting  lands  by  the  mere 
will  of  some  provincial  governor  or  municipal  chief,  without  limitation  as  to  area 
or  precise  delineation  of  boundaries,  here  developes  and  matures  its  most  perni 
cious  fruits.  Your  title  may  be  ever  so  good,  and  yet  your  farm  be  taken  from 
under  you  by  a  new  survey,  proving  that  said  title  does  not  cover  your  tract,  01 
covers  it  but  partially.  Hence  many  refuse  or  neglect  to  improve  the  lands  they 
occupy,  lest  some  title  adverse  to  theirs  be  established,  and  they  legally  ousted  or 
compelled  to  pay  heavily  for  their  own  improvements.  And,  in  addition  to  the 
genuine  Spanish  or  Mexican  grants,  which  the  government  and  courts  must  con 
firm  and  uphold,  there  are  fictitious  and  fraudulent  grants — some  of  them  only 
trumped  up  to  be  bought  off,  and  often  operating  to  create  anarchy  and  protract 
litigation  between  settlers  and  the  real  owners.  Then  there  are  doubtless  squat 
ters  who  refuse  to  recognize  and  respect  valid  titles,  and  waste  in  futile  litigation 
the  money  that  might  make  the  lands  they  occupy  indisputably  their  own.  Were 
the  titles  to  lands  in  California  to-day  as  clear  as  in  Ohio  or  Iowa,  nothing  could 
check  the  impetus  with  which  California  would  bound  forward  in  a  career  of  un 
paralleled  thrift  and  growth.  It  were  far  better  for  the  state  and  her  people  that 
those  titles  were  wrongly  settled  than  that  they  should  remain  as  now.  I  met  to 
day  an  intelligent  farmer  who  has  had  three  different  farms  in  this  state,  and  has 
lost  them  successively  by  adjudications  adverse  to  his  title.  The  present  cost  of 


CALIFORNIA. 

litigation,  enormous  as  it  is,  is  among  the  lesser  evil  consequences  of  this  general 
anarchy  as  to  land  titles. 

Should  these  ever  be  settled,  it  will  be  probably  found  advisable  to  legislate  for 
the  speedy  breaking  up  and  distribution  of  the  great  estates  now  held  under  good 
titles  by  a  few  individuals.  There  will  never  be  good  common  schools  on  or  about 
these  great  domains,  which  will  mainly  be  inhabited  by  needy  and  thriftless  ten 
ants  or  dependents  of  the  landlords.  An  annual  tax  of  a  few  cents  per  acre,  the 
proceeds  to  be  devoted  to  the  erection  of  school  houses  and  the  opening  of  roads 
through  these  princely  estates,  would  go  far  to  effect  the  desired  end.  But,  whether 
by  this  or  some  other  means,  the  beneficent  end  of  making  the  cultivators  of  the 
soil  their  own  landlords  must  somehow  be  attained — the  sooner  the  better,  so  that 
-it  be  done  justly  and  legally.  In  the  course  of  several  hundred  miles'  travel 
through  the  best  settled  portions  of  this  state,  I  remember  having  seen  but  two 
school  houses  outside  of  the  cities  and  villages,  while  the  churches  are  still  more 
uniformly  restricted  to  the  centers  of  population.  Whenever  the  land  titles  shall 
have  been  settled  and  the  arable  lands  have  become  legally  and  fairly  the  property 
of  their  cultivators,  all  this  will  be  speedily  and  happily  changed. 

There  are  two  seasons  in  California,  the  dry  and  the  rainy,  the  latter  ex 
tending  from  the  1st  of  November  to  the  1st  of  April.  During  the  rainy 
season  are  intervals  of  fine  weather,  in  which  all  the  plowing  and  sowing  is 
done. 

"  The  mining  interests  of  California  are  vast  and  inexhaustible.  The  state 
abounds  in  mineral  wealth,  and  in  great  varieties,  and  there  is  no  knowing 
to  what  extent  these  riches  may  be  developed.  The  gold  region  embraces  a 
district  of  country  extending  from  the  Oregon  line  on  the  north  to  Kern 
River  in  the  south,  a  distance  of  nearly  five  hundred  miles  in  length,  and 
from  ten  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  width.  Mining  is  successfully 
carried  on  in  some  twenty-five  counties,  and  not  more  than  one  fifth  of  this 
gold  region  is  occupied  by  miners  at  the  present  time."  From  1849  to  1860, 
it  was  estimated  that  gold  to  the  value  of  600  millions  of  dollars  had  been 
taken  out  of  the  mines  of  California  and  sent  abroad. 

"  In  a  few  years  California  will  become  a  vast  empire  within  herself.  The  peo 
ple  have  the  use  of  all  the  mineral  lands  without  any  cost  whatever,  except  the 
tax  on  their  personal  property,  but  no  mining  claim  is  taxed.  Every  vacant  piece 
of  land  in  the  mines  is  subject  to  location  by  any  one  who  may  wish  to  settle  on 
it,  and  as  long  as  he  remains  his  possessory  right  is  as  good  a  title  as  he  wants. 
The  mineral  lands  are  expressly  reserved  from  sale  by  act  of  congress,  and  the 
legislation  of  the  state,  so  far,  has  been  to  let  them  alone,  yet  recognizing  the  rules 
of  each  mining  camp  as  the  law  under  which  the  miners  hold  their  different  kind 
of  claims. 

The  pre-emption  laws  of  the  United  States  have  been  extended  to  California,  and 
persons  settling  upon  the  public  land  can  have  the  benefit  of  them.  Of  the  sur 
veyed  lands  the  state  is  entitled  to  the  sixteenth  and  thirty-sixth  sections  of  each 
township,  for  school  purposes.  She  was  granted  500,000  acres  by  congress  for  in 
ternal  improvements,  but  a  provision  in  her  constitution  diverts  them  to  educa 
tional  purposes.  Thus  California  has  over  6,000,000  acres  out  of  which  to  build 
up  her  school  system. 

She  has  also  5,000,000  of  acres  of  swamp  land,  donated  her  by  congress.  This 
land  is  destined  to  become  the  most  valuable  in  the  state.  It  is  all  alluvial  and  of 
inexhaustible  richness.  By  an  act  of  the  state  legislature,  any  person  can  locate 
640  acres  of  this  at  one  dollar  an  acre,  by  paying  one  fifth  down  and  the  balance 
in  five  years.  She  is  thus  the  absolute  owner  of  over  eleven  millions  of  acres,  and 
constituting  a  basis  of  prosperity  and  usefulness  of  which  perhaps  no  other  state 
can  boast." 

The  population  of  California,  January  1,  1849,  was  estimated  at  26,000, 
viz:  natives  of  the  country,  not  including  Indians,  13,000;  United  States 
Americans,  8,000;  and  Europeans,  5,000.     The  whole  number  of  Indians 
42 


658  CALIFORNIA. 

was  probably  then  about  40,000.  In  1852,  a  state  census  gave  the  population 
as  264,435.  The  census  of  1860  gave  a  population  of  384,770.  A  very  large 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  are  males  and  of  mixed  nationalities.  A  Cal 
ifornia  writer  thus  estimates  the  number  of  the  various  classes  of  the  popu 
lation  in  1859 : 

"There  may  now  be  125,000  voters  in  the  state,  certainly  not  more.  Of  alien 
men,  there  are  about  15,000  Frenchmen,  7,000  Spanish  Americans,  8,000  Britons 
ancl  Irishmen,  4,000  Italians,  5,000  Germans,  and  6,000  miscellaneous  Europeans — 
40,000  alien  white  men  in  all.  We  have  thus  170,000  white  men.  There  are 
50,000  Chinamen,*  as  ascertained  from  the  custom  house  books.  This  figure  is 
more  exact  than  the  census  returns  will  be.  Thus  we  have  220,000  men,  of  whom 
about  88,000  (two  fifths  reside  in  the  farming  districts,  including  the  cities,  and 
three  fifths  in  the  mining  districts.  In  the  former  there  are,  on  an  average,  two 
men  to  a  woman;  in  the  latter,  five  men  to  a  woman;  so  that,  in  the  farming  dis 
tricts,  there  will  be  of  men  and  women,  132,000,  and  in  the  mining  districts, 
158,400,  or  70,400  women  in  the  state.  Add  90,000  minors,  including  school  chil 
dren,  and  we  have  380,400.  To  these  add  5,000  negroes  and  9,600  Indians,  and  we 
have  395,000  as  the  total  population  of  the  state.  The  mining  districts  have  a 
large  majority  of  the  Chinamen  and  aliens;  the  farming  districts  have  a  majority 
of  the  citizens,  and  a  large  majority  of  the  women  and  children.  Of  the  nativity 
of  the  125,000  voters,  I  make  the  following  estimate,  viz :  40,000  native  Americans 
from  the  free  states,  30,000  Americans  from  the  slave  states,  25,000  Irishmen, 
20,000  Germans,  and  10,000  miscellaneous  persons  of  foreign  birth,  including 
British,  Hungarians,  Spaniards,  etc.  If  this  estimate  be  correct,  you  will  perceive 
that  our  population  ,js  very  much  mixed.  But  the  English  language  prevails  every 
where,  and  in  another  generation  it  will  be  the  mother  tongue  of  all  the  children 
born  of  parents  now  in  the  state." 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  the  commercial  capital  of  California,  is  in  the  same  lati 
tude  with  Lisbon,  and  also  with  Richmond,  Virginia,  and  distant  on  an  air 
line  from  the  latter  2,500  miles.  Its  latitude  is  37°  48'  and  longitude  122° 
25'  W.  from  Greenwich.  Her  trade  is  immense,  being  the  fourth  commer 
cial  city  in  the  Union.  Her  situation  is  unrivaled,  fronting  the  Pacific  at 
the  head  of  the  magnificent  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  which  has  no  equal  for  a 
line  of  thousands  of  miles  of  coast.  "  The  connection  of  San  Francisco 
with  the  great  interior  valley  of  the  state  being  the  only  water  communication 
with  it,  together  with  its  easy  communication  with  Asia,  gives  it  vast  com 
mercial  advantages.  Approaching  it  from  the  sea,  the  coast  presents  a  bold 
mountainous  outline.  The  bay  is  entered  by  a  strait  running  east  and  west, 
about  a  mile  broad  at  its  narrowest  part,  and  five  miles  long  from  the  ocean, 
when  it  opens  to  the  north  and  south,  in  each  direction  more  than  thirty 
miles.  It  is  divided  by  straits  and  projecting  points,  into  three  separate 
bays,  the  two  northern  being  called  San  Pablo  and  Suisun,  and  the  south 
ern,  San  Francisco.  The  strait  is  called  the  'Golden  Gate,'  on  the  same  prin 
ciple  that  the  harbor  of  Constantinople  was  called  the  '  Golden  Horn,'  viz : 
its  advantages  for  commerce." 


*  "  Of  all  this  number  of  50,000  Chinamen,  by  the  laws  of  California,  not  one  is  allowed 
to  vote,  not  one  to  give  evidence  in  a  court  of  justice,  but  kept  virtually  outlawed,  and 
liable  to  all  manner  of  unlimited  abuse,  robbery,  or  personal  cruelty,  with  no  possibility  of 
redress,  except  some  European  happens  to  be  an  eye-witness.  If  some  renegade  Celt  of 
Saxon  wishes  to  plunder  a  Chinaman,  knowing  the  law  and  the  poor  man's  defenselessness 
he  has  but  to  choose  a  time  when  none  but  Chinese  eyes  are  looking  on  !  A  hundred  Chi 
nese  may  witness  a  deed  of  violence,  but  their  united  testimony  is  worthless  and  inadmia 
sible  against  a  European  or  American  evil-doer  within  the  limits  of  the  state." 


CALIFORNIA. 


San  Francisco,  as  a  town,  is  of  very  recent  origin  :  but  the  immediate  vi 
cinity  has  a  history  dating  back  to  the  year  1776.  Then  the  Mission  of  San 
Francisco  was  founded,  which  stood  two  and  a  half  miles  south-west  of  the 
cove  of  Yerba  Buena;  at  the  same  time  was  erected  a  presidio  and  a  fort 


Harbor  of  San  Francisco. 

along  the  margin  of  the  Golden  Gate.  In  1835,  the  first  habitation  was 
reared  on  the  site  of  San  Francisco,  by  Capt.  W.  A.  Richardson,  who,  being 
appointed  harbor  master,  erected  a  tent  of  a  ship's  foresail,  and  supported  it 
by  four  redwood  posts.  His  business  was  to  manage  two  schooners,  which 
brought  produce  from  the  various  missions  and  farms  to  the  sea  going  ves 
sels  that  came  into  the  cove.  In  May,  1836,  Mr.  Jacob  Primer  Leese  arrived 
in  the  cove,  with  the  intention  of  establishing  a  mercantile  business  in  con 
nection  with  partners  at  Monterey.  He  erected  the  first  frame  house,  which 
was  60  by  25  feet,  placing  it  alongside  of  the  tent  of  Richardson,  and  on  the 


660  CALIFORNIA. 

site  of  the  St.  Francis  Hotel,  corner  of  Clay  and  Dupont-streets.  The  man. 
sion  was  finished  on  the  4th  of  July,  and  the  day  was  celebrated  by  a  grand 
banquet.  The  guests,  numbering  about  60,  consisted  of  the  principal  Mex 
ican  families  of  the  neighborhood,  together  with  the  officers  of  two  Ameri 
can  and  one  Mexican  vessel  in  port.  Outside  of  the  building  the  American 
and  Mexican;  flags  waved  together  in  amicable  proximity,  within,  toasts  were 
drank  and  good  cheer  prevailed :  half  a  dozen  instruments  added  their  en 
livening  strains  to  the  general  enjoyment,  two  six 'pounders  hard-by  occa 
sionally  opened  their  throats  and  barked  forth  with  an  emphasis  proper  to 
the  occasion.  Mr.  Leese  subsequently  married  a  sister  of  General  Vallejo, 
one  of  his  guests  on  this  occasion,  and  on  the  15th  of  April,  1838,  was  born 
Rosalia  Leese,  the  first  born  of  Yerba  Buena,  as  the  place  was  then  called 
from  the  wild  mint  growing  on  the  hills. 

A  few  other  houses  were  soon  after  built,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  be 
came  interested  in  the  place ;  their  agents  and  people  came  to  form  nearly  the  en 
tire  settlement.  Late  as  1 844,  Yerba  Buena  contained  only  about  a  dozen  houses. 
In  1846,  this  company  disposed  of  their  property  and  removed  from  the  place, 
when  the  progress  of  the  Mexican  war  threw  it  into  American  hands,  and  it  then 
advanced  with  wonderful  rapidity.  By  the  end  of  April  1848,  the  era  of  the  gold 
discovery,  the  town  contained  200  dwellings  and  1,000  inhabitants,  comprised 
almost  entirely  of  American  and  European  emigrants. 

The  church,  tavern  and  printing  office  are  an  indispensable  adjunct  to  all  Amer 
ican  settlements.  In  January,  1847,  appeared  the  first  newspaper,  the  California 
Star,  published  by  Samuel  Brannan,  and  edited  by  Dr.  E.  P.  Jones.  In  the  first 
month  of  its  issue  was  printed  an  ordinance,  from  the  alcalde,  Mr.  Bartlett,  chang 
ing  the  name  of  the  place  from  Yerba  Buena  to  San  Francisco. 

The  first  alcalde  of  San  Francisco,  under  the  American  flag,  was  Washington  .A. 
Bartlett,  a  lieutenant  of  the  navy,  who,  being  ordered  to  his  ship,  was  succeeded 
on  the  22d  of  February,  1847,  by  Edwin  Bryant.  Under  Mexican  laws  an  alcalde 
has  entire  control  of  municipal  affairs,  and  administers  justice  in  ordinary  matters 
according  to  his  own  ideas  of  right,  without  regard  to  written  law.  On  the  Amer 
icans  taking  possession  of  the  country,  they  temporarily  made  use  of  the  existing 
machinery  of  local  government,  everywhere  appointed  alcaldes,  and  instructed 
them  to  dispense  justice  with  a  general  regard  to  the  Mexican  laws  and  the  pro 
vincial  customs  of  California. 

In  December,  1847,  occurred  the  event  which  was  so  suddenly  to  trans 
form  California  from  a  wilderness  into  a  great  state,  and  San  Francisco  from 
a  petty  village  into  a  great  commercial  metropolis — the  discovery  of  gold. 
"Early  in  1848,  the  news  spread  to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  and  imme 
diately  adventurers  from  every  land  came  thronging  to  this  new  El  Dorado. 
The  magnificent  harbor  of  San  Francisco  made  this  port  the  great  rendez 
vous  for  the  arriving  vessels,  and  from  this  period  dates  the  extraordinary 
increase  and  prosperity  of  the  Californian  metropolis.  In  the  first  four 
months  of  the  golden  age,  the  quantity  of  precious  dust  brought  to  San 
Francisco  was  estimated  at  $850,000.  In  February,  1849,  the  population  of 
the  town  was  about  2,000;  in  August  it  was  estimated  at  5,000.  From  April 
12,  1849,  to  the  29th  of  January,  1850,  there  arrived  by  sea  39,888  emi 
grants,  of  whom  1,421  only  were  females.  In  the  year  ending  April  15, 
1850,  there  arrived  £2,000  passengers.  In  the  first  part  of  1850,  San  Fran 
cisco  became  a  city,  with  a  population  of  15,000  to  20,000;  and  in  1860,  it 
had  56,805,  together  with  the  largest  trade  of  any  city  on  the  Pacific  side 
of  the  American  continent. 

The  magical  effect  upon  San  Francisco  of  the  discovery  of  gold,  is  thus 
described  in  the  Annals  of  the  city: 

Early  in  the  spring  of  this  year  (1848),  occasional  intelligence  had  been  received 


CALIFORNIA. 


661 


of  the  finding  of  gold  in  large  quantities  among  the  foot  hills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
Small  parcels  of  the  precious  metal  had  also  been  forwarded  to  San  Francisco, 
while  visitors  from  the  mines,  and  some  actual  diggers  arrived,  to  tell  the  wonders 
of  the  region  and  the  golden  gains  of  those  engaged  in  exploring  and  working  it. 
In  consequence  of  such  representations,  the  inhabitants  began  gradually,  in  bands 
and  singly,  to  desert  their  previous  occupations,  and  betake  themselves  to  the 
American  River  and  other  auriferous  parts  of  the  great  Sacramento  valley.  Labor, 
from  the  deficiency  of  hands,  rose  rapidly  in  value,  and  soon  all  business  and  work, 
except  the  most  urgent,  was  forced  to  be  stopped.  Seamen  deserted  from  their 
ships  in  the  bay  and  soldiers  from  the  barracks.  Over  all  the  country  the  excite 
ment  was  the  same,  Neither  threats,  punishment  nor  money  could  keep  men  to 
their  most  solemn  engagements.  Gold  was  the  irresistible  magnet  that  drew  hu 
man  souls  to  the  place  where  it  lay,  rudely  snapping  asunder  the  feebler  ties  of 
affection  and  duty.  Avarice  and  the  overweening  desire  to  be  suddenly  rich,  from 
whence  sprang  the  hope  and  moral  certainty  of  being  so,  grew  into  a  disease,  and 
the  infection  spread  on  all  sides,  and  led  to  a  general  migration  of  every  class  of 
the  community  to  the  golden  quarters.  The  daily  laborer,  who  had  worked  for  the 
good  and  at  the  command  of  another,  for  one  or  two  dollars  a  day,  could  not  be  re 
strained  from  flying  to  the  happy  spot  where  he  could  earn  six  or  ten  times  the  amount, 
and  might  possibly  gain  a  hundred  or  even  a  thousand  times  the  sum  in  one  lucky 
day's  chance.  Then  the  life,  at  worst,  promised  to  be  one  of  continual  adventure 
and  excitement,  and  the  miner  was  his  own  master.  While  this  was  the  case  with 
the  common  laborer,  his  employer,  wanting  his  services,  suddenly  found  his  occu 
pation  at  an  end ;  while  shopkeepers  and  the  like,  dependent  on  both,  discovered 
themselves  in  the  same  predicament.  The  glowing  tales  of  the  successful  miners 
all  the  while  reached  their  ears,  and  threw  their  own  steady  and  large  gains  com 
paratively  in  the  shade.  They  therefore  could  do  no  better,  in  a  pecuniary  sense 
even,  for  themselves,  than  to  hasten  after  their  old  servants,  and  share  in  their  new- 
labor  and  its  extraordinary  gains,  or  pack  up  their  former  business  stock,  and  trav 
eling  with  it  to  the  mines,  open  their  new  shops  and  stores  and  stalls,  and  dispose 
of  their  old  articles  to  the  fortunate  diggers,  at  a  rise  of  five  hundred  or  a  thousand 
per  cent. 

In  the  month  of  May  it  was  computed  that  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  people 
had  left  San  Francisco,  and  every  day  since  was  adding  to  their  number.  Some 
were  occasionally  returning  from  the  auriferous  quarter;  but  they  had  little  time 
to  stop  and  expatiate  upon  what  they  had  seen.  They  had  hastily  come  back,  as 
they  had  hastily  gone  away  at  first,  leaving  their  household  and  business  to  waste 
and  ruin,  now  to  fasten  more  properly  their  houses,  and  remove  goods,  family  and 
all,  at  once  to  the  gold  region.  Their  hurried  movements,  more  even  than  the 
words  they  uttered,  excited  the  curiosity  and  then  the  eager  desire  of  others  to 
accompany  them.  And  so  it  was.  Day  after  day  the  bay  was  covered  with 
launches,  filled  with  the  inhabitants  and  their  goods,  hastening  up  the  Sacramento. 
This  state  of  matters  soon  came  to  a  head ;  and  master  and  man  alike  hurried  to 
the  placeres,  leaving  San  Francisco,  like  a  place  where  the  plague  reigns,  forsaken 
by  its  old  inhabitants,  a  melancholy  solitude. 

On  the  29th  of  May,  the  "  Californian  "  published  a  fly-sheet,  apologizing  for  the 
future  non-issue  of  the  paper,  until  better'days  came,  when  they  might  expect  to 
retain  their  servants  for  some  amount  of  remuneration,  which  at  present  was  im 
possible,  as  all,  from  the  "subs"  to  the  "devil"  had  indignantly  rejected  every 
offer,  and  gone  off  to  the  diggings.  "The  whole  country," "said  the  last  editorial 
of  the  paper,  "  from  San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles,  and  from  the  sea  shore  to  the 
base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  resounds  with  the  sordid  cry  of  gold !  GOLD  !  !  GOLD ! ! ! 
— while  the  field  is  left  half  planted,  the  house  half  built,  and  everything  neglected 
but  the  manufacture  of  shovels  and  pick-axes,  and  the  means  of  transportation  to 
the  spot  where  one  man  obtained  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  dollars'  worth  of 
the  real  stvff  in  one  day's  washing,  and  the  average  for  all  concerned  is  twenty  dol 
lars  per  diem  /" 

Within  the  first  eight  weeks  after  the  " diggings"  had  been  fairly  known,  two 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  had  reached  San  Francisco  in  gold  dust,  and 
within  the  next  eight  weeks,  six  hundred  thousand  more.  These  sums  were  all  to 


CALIFORNIA. 

purchase,  at  any  price,  additional  supplies  for  the  mines.  Coin  grew  scarce,  and 
nil  that  was  in  the  country  was  insufficient  to  satisfy  the  increased  wants  of  com 
merce  in  one  town  alone.  Gold  dust,  therefore,  soon  became  a  circulating  medium, 
nnd  after  some  little  demur  at  first,  was  readily  received  by  all  classes  at  sixteen 
dollars  an  ounce.  The  authorities,  however,  would  only  accept  it  in  payment  of 
duties  at  ten  dollars  per  ounce,  with  the  privilege  of  redemption,  by  payment  of 
coin,  within  a  limited  time. 

When  subsequently  immigrants  began  to  arrive  in  numerous  bands,  any  amount 
of  labor  could  be  obtained,  provided  always  a  most  unusually  high  price  was  paid 
for  it.  Returned  diggers,  and  those  who  cautiously  had  never  went  to  the  mines, 
were  then  also  glad  enough  to  work  for  rates  varying  from  twelve  to  thirty  dollars 
a  day ;  at  which  terms  capitalists  were  somewhat  afraid  to  commence  any  heavy 
undertaking.  The  hesitation  was  only  for  an  instant.  Soon  all  the  labor  that 
could  possibly  be  procured,  was  in  ample  request  at  whatever  rates  were  demanded. 
The  population  of  a  great  state  was  suddenly  flocking  in  upon  them,  and  no  prepa 
rations  had  hitherto  been  made  for  its  reception.  Building  lots  had  to  be  surveyed, 
and  streets  graded  and  planked — hills  leveled — hollows,  lagoons,  and  the  bay  itself 
piled,  capped,  filled  up  and  planked — lumber,  bricks,  ard  all  other  building  mate 
rials,  provided  at  most  extraordinarily  high  prices — houses  built,  finished  and  fur 
nished — great  warehouses  and  stores  erected — wharves  run  far  out  into  the  sea — 
numberless  tuns  of  goods  removed  from  shipboard,  and  delivered  and  shipped  anew 
everywhere — and  ten  thousand  other  things  had  all  to  be  done  without  a  moment's 
unnecessary  delay.  Long  before  these  things  were  completed,  the  sand  hills  and 
barren  ground  around  the  town  were  overspread  with  a  multitude  of  canvas, 
blanket  and  bough-covered  tents — the  bay  was  alive  with  shipping  and  small  craft 
carrying  passengers  and  goods  backward  and  forward — the  unplanked,  ungraded, 
unformed  streets  (at  one  time  moving  heaps  of  dry  sand  and  dust;  at  another,  miry 
abysses,  whose  treacherous  depths  sucked  in  horse  and  dray,  and  occasionally  man 
himself),  were  crowded  with  human  beings  from  every  corner  of  the  universe  and 
of  every  tongue — all  excited  and  busy,  plotting,  speaking,  working,  buying  and 
selling  town  lots,  and  beach  and  water  lots,  shiploads  of  "every  kind  of  assorted 
merchandise,  the  ships  themselves,  if  they  could — though  that  was  not  often — gold 
dust  in  hundred  weights,  ranches  square  leagues  in  extent,  with  their  thousands 
of  cattle — allotments  in  hundreds  of  contemplated  towns,  already  prettily  designed 
and  laid  out — on  paper — and,  in  short,  speculating  and  gambling  in  every  branch 
of  modern  commerce,  and  in  many  strange  things  peculiar  to  the  time  and  place. 
And  everybody  made  money,  and  was  suddenly  growing  rich.* 

The  loud  voices  of  the  eager  seller  and  as  eager  buyer — the  laugh  of  reckless 
joy — the  bold  accents  of  successful  speculation— the  stir  and  hum  of  active,  hur 
ried  labor,  as  man  and  brute,  horse  and  bullock,  and  their  guides,  struggled  and 
managed  through  heaps  of  loose  rubbish,  over  hills  of  sand,  and  among  deceiving 
deep  mud  pools  and  swamps,  filled  the  amazed  newly  arrived  immigrant  with  an 
almost  appalling  sense  of  the  exuberant  life,  energy  and  enterprise  of  the  place. 
He  breathed  quick  and  faintly — his  limbs  grew  weak  as  water — and  his  heart  sunk 
within  him  as  he  thought  of  the  dreadful  conflict,  when  he  approached  and  mingled 
among  that  confused  and  terrible  business  battle. 

Gambling  saloons,  glittering  like  fairy  palaces,  like  them  suddenly  sprang  into 
existence,  studding  nearly  all  sides  of  the  plaza,  and  every  street  in  its  neighbor 
hood.  As  if  intoxicating  drinks  from  the  well  plenished  and  splendid  bar  they 
each  contained  were  insufficient  to  gild  the  scene,  music  added  its  loudest,  if  not 

*Johnson,  in  his  "Sights  in  the  Gold  Region,"  states  "  Lumber  sold  as  high  as  $600  per 
thousand  feet.  The  merest  necessaries  of  life  commanded  the  most  extravagant  prices. 
Laundresses  received  $8  per  dozen,  aird  cooks  $150  per  month ;  and  it  was  nearly  impossi 
ble  to  obtain  either.  The  prices  of  houses  and  lots  were  from  $10,000  to  $75,000,  each.  A 
Jot  purchased  two  years  ago  for  a  barrel  of  aguardiente  was  sold  recently  for  $18,000.  One 
new  three  story  frame  hotel,  about  forty  by  sixty  feet,  cost  $180,000,  and  rented  for  an  in 
terest  of  more  than  twenty  per  cent,  per  annum  ;  small  rooms  for  gambling  purposes  rent- 
lag  for  $400  per  month.  Yet,  notwithstanding  these  enormous  inc6rnes,  speculation  so 
raged  that  as  high  as  twenty-five  per  cent,  was  actually  paid  for  the  use  of  money  for  on* 
week." 


CALIFORNIA 

its  sweetest  charms ;  and  all  was  mad,  feverish  mirth,  where  fortunes  were  lost 
and  won,  upon  the  green  cloth,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  All  classes  gambled 
in  those  days,  from  the  starchiest  white  neck-clothed  professor  to  the  veriest  black 
rascal  that  earned  a  dollar  for  blacking  massa's  boots.  Nobody  had  leisure  to 
think  even  for  a  moment  of  his  occupation,  and  how  it  was  viewed  in  Christian 
lands.  The  heated  brain  was  never  allowed  to  get  cool  while  a  bit  of  coin  or  dust 
was  left.  These  saloons,  therefore,  were  crowded,  night  and  day,  by  impatient 
revelers  who  never  could  satiate  themselves  with  excitement,  nor  get  rid  too  soon 
of  their  golden  heaps. 

The  very  thought  of  that  wondrous  time  is  an  electric  spark  that  fires  into  one 
great  flame  all  our  fancies,  passions  and  experiences  of  the  fall  of  that  eventful 
year,  1849.  The  world  had  perhaps  never  before  afforded  such  a  spectacle;  and 
probably  nothing  of  the  kind  will  be  witnessed  for  generations  to  come.  A  city 
of  twenty  or  thirty  thousand  inhabitants  improvised — the  people  nearly  all  adult 
males,  strong  in  person,  clever,  bold,  sanguine,  restless  and  reckless." 

The  proceedings  of  the  famous  "Vigilance  Committee"  of  San  Francisco 
at  the  time  excited  the  surprise  of  the  outside  world.  It  was,  however,  an 
organization  that  arose  from  the  necessities  of  the  community:  its  acts  were 
justified  by  the  great  body  of  the  citizens,  while  its  members  comprised  the 
first  men  in  business  and  social  standing  in  the  city. 

Up  to  the  beginning  of  1851,  the  emigration  to  California  had  been  im 
mense.  Nearly  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  men,  strangers  from  various  parts 
of  the  world,  had  been  suddenly  thrown  into  this  new  land,  and  scattered 
among  the  newly  established  towns  and  over  the  different  mining  districts. 
The  institutions  of  law,  in  but  a  forming  state,  failed  to  give  adequate  pro 
tection.  Among  the  inhabitants  were  a  large  number  of  criminals  and  vile 
men  from  various  countries.  The  most  numerous  and  daring  class  of  des 
peradoes  were  the  convicted  felons  of  the  English  penal  colonies,  who.  having 
"served  their  time,"  early  contrived  to  sail  for  California.  These  "Sydney 
coves,"  as  they  were  called,  reaped  a  rich  harvest  in  California,  and  for  a 
while  it  seemed  impossible  to  check  their  crimes. 

Around  Clark's  Point  and  vicinity,  in  San  Francisco,  was  the  rendezvous  of 
these  villains.  "  Low  drinking  and  dancing  houses,  lodging  and  gambling  houses 
of  the  same  mean  class,  the  constant  scenes  of  lewdness,  drunkenness  and  strife, 
abounded  in  the  quarter  mentioned.  The  daily  and  nightly  occupants  of  these 
vile  abodes  had  every  one,  more  or  less,  been  addicted  to  crime ;  and  many  of  them 
were  at  all  times  ready,  for  the  most  trifling  consideration,  to  kill  a  man  or  fire  a 
town.  During  the  early  hours  of  night,  when  the  Alsatia  was  in  revel,  it  was  dan 
gerous  in  the  highest  degree  for  a  single  person  to  venture  within  its  bounds.  Even 
the  police  hardly  dared  to  enter  there ;  and  if  they  attempted  to  apprehend  some 
known  individuals,  it  was  always  in  a  numerous,  strongly-armed  company.  Seldom, 
however,  were  arrests  made.  The  lawless  inhabitants  of  the  place  united  to  save 
their  luckless  brothers,  and  generally  managed  to  drive  the  assailants  away.  When 
the  different  fires  took  place  in  San  Francisco,  bands  of  plunderers  issued  from 
this  great  haunt  of  dissipation,  to  help  themselves  to  whatever  money  or  valuables 
lay  in  their  way,  or  which  they  could  possibly  secure.  With  these  they  retreated 
to  their  dens,  and  defied  detection  or  apprehension.  Fire,  however,  was  only  one 
means  of  attaining  their  ends.  The  most  daring  burglaries  were  committed,  and 
houses  and  persons  rifled  of  their  valuables.  Where  resistance  was  made,  the 
bowie-knife  or  the  revolver  settled  matters,  and  left  the  robber  unmolested.  Midnight 
assaults,  ending  in  murder,  were  common.  And  not  only  were  these  deeds  perpe 
trated  under  the  shade  of  night ;  but  even  in  daylight,  in  the  highways  and  byways 
of  the  country,  in  the  streets  of  the  town,  in  crowded  bars,  gambling  saloons  and 
lodging  houses,  crimes  of  an  equally  glaring  character  were  of  constant  occurrence 
People  at  that  period  generally  carried  during  all  hours,  and  wherever  they  hap- 


664 


CALIFORNIA. 


pened  to  be,  loaded  firearms  about  their  persons  ;  but  these  weapons  availed  noth 
ing  against  the  sudden  stroke  of  the  '  slung  shot/  the  plunge  and  rip  of  the  knife, 
or  the  secret  aiming  of  the  pistol.  No  decent  man  was  in  safety  to  walk  the  streets 
after  dark;  while  at  all  hours,  both  of  night  and  day,  his  property  was  jeopardized 
by  incendiarism  and  burglary. 

All  this  while,  the  law.  whose  supposed  'majesty'  is  so  awful  in  other  countries, 
was  here  only  a  matter  lor  ridicule.     The  police  were  few  in  number,  and  poorly 

as  well  as  irregularly  paid. 
Some  of  them  were  in  league 
with  the  criminals  themselves, 
and  assisted  these  at  all  times 
to  elude  justice.  Subsequent 
confessions  of  criminals  on  the 
eve  of  execution,  implicated  a 
considerable  number  of  people 
in  various  high  and  low  de 
partments  of  the  executive. 
feail  was  readily  accepted  in 
the  most  serious  cases,  where 
the  security  tendered  was  ab 
solutely  worthless  ;  and  where, 
whenever  necessary,  both  prin 
cipal  and  cautioner  quietly  dis 
appeared.  The  prisons  like 
wise  were  small  and  insecure  ; 
and  though  filled  to  overflow 
ing,  could  no  longer  contain 
the  crowds  of  apprehended 
offenders.  When  these  were 
ultimately  brought  to  trial,  sel 
dom  could  a  conviction  be  ob 
tained.  From  technical  errors 
on  the  part  of  the  prosecutors, 
laws  ill  understood  and  worse 
applied,  false  swearing  of  the 
witnesses  for  the  prisoners,  ab 
sence  often  of  the  chief  evi 
dence  for  the  prosecution,  dis 
honesty  of  jurors,  incapacity, 
weakness,  or  venality  of  the 
judge,  and  from  many  other 
causes,  the  cases  generally 
broke  down  and  the  prisoners 
were  freed.  Not  one  criminal 


HANGING  OF  WHITTAKEB  AND  MCKENZIE, 
By  the  San  Francisco  Vigilance  Committee. 


had  yet  been  executed.  Yet  it  was  notorious,  that,  at  this  period,  at  least  one  hun 
dred  murders  had  been  committed  within  the  space  of  a  few  months;  while  innu 
merable  were  the  instances  of  arson,  and  of  theft,  robbery,  burglary,  and  assault 
with  intent  to  kill.  It  was  evident  that  the  offenders  defied  and  laughed  at  all  the 
puny  efforts  of  the  authorities  to  control  them.  The  tedious  processes  of  legal 
tribunals  had  no  terrors  for  them.  As  yet  everything  had  been  pleasant  and  safe, 
and  they  saw  no  reason  why  it  should  not  always  be  so.  San  Francisco  had  just 
been  destroyed,  a  fifth  time,  by  conflagration.  The  cities  of  Stockton  and  Nevada 
had  likewise  shared  the  same  fate.  That  part  of  it  was  the  doing  of  incendiaries 
no  one  doubted  ;  and  too,  no  one  doubted  but  that  this  terrible  state  of  things 
would  continue,  and  grow  worse  until  a  new  and  very  different  executive  from  the 
legally-constituted  one  should  rise  up  in  vengeance  against  those  pests  that  worried 
and  preyed  upon  the  vitals  of  society.  It  was  at  this  fearful  time  that  the  Vigil 
ance  Committee  was  organized." 

This  was  in  June,  1851,  at  which  time  the  association  organized  "  for  the  protection 
of  the  lives  and  property  of  the  citizens  and  residents  of  the  city  of  San  Fran- 


CALIFORNIA. 

cisco."  They  formed  a  constitution  and  selected  a  room  in  which  to  hold  their 
meetings,  which  were  entirely  secret.  The  first  person  they  arrested  was  John 
Jenkins,  a  notorious  "  Sydney  cove."  He  was  seized  for  stealing  a  safe  on  the  10th 
of  June.  About  10  o'clock  that  night,  the  signal  for  calling  the  members  was 
given — the  tolling  of  the  bell  of  the  Monumental  Engine  Company.  Shortly  after 
ward  about  80  members  of  the  committee  hurried  to  the  appointed  place,  and  giv 
ing  the  secret  password  were  admitted.  For  two  long  hours  the  committee  closely 
examined  the  evidence  and  found  him  guilty.  "At  midnight  the  bell  was  tolled,  as 
sentence  of  death  by  hanging  was  passed  upon  the  wretched  man.  The  solemn 
sounds  at  that  unusual  hour  filled  the  anxious  crowds  with  awe.  The  condemned 
at  this  time  was  asked  if  he  had  anything  to  say  for  himself,  when  he  answered : 
'  No,  I  have  nothing  to  say,  only  I  wish  to  have  a  cigar."  This  was  handed  to 
him,  and  afterward,  at  his  request,  a  little  brandy  and  water.  He  was  perfectly 
cool,  and  seemingly  careless,  confidently  expecting,  it  was  believed,  a  rescue,  up  to 
the  last  moment. 

A  little  before  one  o'clock,  Mr.  S.  Brannan  came  out  of  the  committee  rooms, 
and  ascending  a  mound  of  sand  to  the  east  of  the  Rassette  House,  addressed  the 
people.  He  had  been  deputed,  he  said,  by  the  committee,  to  inform  them  that  the 
prisoner's  case  had  been  fairly  tried,  that  he  had  been  proved  guilty,  and  was  con 
demned  to  be  hanged;  and  that  the  sentence  would  be  executed  within  one  hour 
upon  the  plaza.  He  then  asked  the  people  if  they  approved  of  the  action  of  the 
committee,  when  great  shouts  of  Ay  I  Ay  I  burst  forth,  mingled  with  a  few  cries 
of  No  I  In  the  interval  a  clergyman  had  been  sent  for,  who  administered  the  last 
consolations  of  religion  to  the  condemned. 

Shortly  before  two  o'clock,  the  committee  issued  from  the  building,  bearing  tho 
prisoner  (who  had  his  arms  tightly  pinioned)  along  with  them.  The  committee 
were  all  armed,  and  closely  clustered  around  the  culprit  to  prevent  any  possible 
chance  of  rescue.  A  procession  was  formed ;  and  the  whole  party,  followed  by 
the  crowd,  proceeded  to  the  plaza,  to  the  south  end  of  the  adobe  building,  which 
then  stood  on  the  north-west  corner.  The  opposite  end  of  the  rope  which  was 
already  about  the  neck  of  the  victim  was  hastily  thrown  over  a  projecting  beam. 
Home  of  the  authorities  attempted  at  this  stage  of  affairs  to  interfere,  but  their 
efforts  were  unavailing.  They  were  civilly  desired  to  stand  back,  and  not  delay 
what  was  still  to  be  done.  The  crowd,  which  numbered  upward  of  a  thousand, 
were  perfectly  quiescent,  or  only  applauded  by  look,  gesture,  and  subdued  voice 
the  action  of  the  committee.  Before  the  prisoner  had  reached  the  building,  a  score 
of  persons  seized  the  loose  end  of  the  rope  and  ran  backward,  dragging  the  wretch 
along  the  ground  and  raising  him  to  the  beam.  Thus  they  held  him  till  he  was 
dead.  Nor  did  they  let  the  body  go  until  same  hours  afterward,  new  volunteers 
relieving  those  who  were  tired  holding  the  rope.  Little  noise  or  confusion  took 
place.  Muttered  whispers  among  the  spectators  guided  their  movements  or  be 
trayed  their  feelings.  The  prisoner  had  not  spoken  a  word,  either  upon  the  march 
or  during  the  rapid  preparations  for  his  execution.  At  the  end  he  was  perhaps 
strung  up  almost  before  he  was  aware  of  what  was  so  immediately  coming.  He 
was  a  strong-built,  healthy  man,  and  his  struggles,  when  hanging,  were  very  vio 
lent  for  a  few  minutes." 

The  next  execution  which  took  place  was  about  a  month  later,  that  of  James 
Stuart.  He  was  an  Englishman,  who  had  been  transported  to  Australia  for  forgery. 
On  leaving  it,  he  wandered  in  various  parts  of  the  Pacific  until  he  reached  Cali 
fornia,  where  he  was  supposed  to  have  committed  more  murders  and  other  desper 
ate  crimes  than  any  other  villain  in  the  country.  Before  his  death  he  acknowl 
edged  the  justice  of  his  punishment.  He  was  hung  July  llth,  from  a  derrick  at 
the  end  of  Market-street  wharf,  in  the  presence  of  assembled  thousands. 

One  more  month  rolled  round,  and  the  committee  again  exercised  their  duties 
upon  the  persons  of  Samuel  Whittaker  and  Robert  McKenzie,  who  were  guilty  of 
robbery,  murder  and  arson,  and  on  trial  confessed  these  crimes.  The  sheriff  and 
his  posse  with  a  writ  of  habeas  corpus,  took  these  men  from  the  hands  of  the  com 
mittee  and  confined  them  in  jail.  The  latter,  fearful  that  the  rascals  would  escape 
through  the  quibbles  of  the  law,  prepared  for  the  rescue. 

"About  half  past  two  o'clock,"  says  the  A»nals  of  San  Francisco,  "on  the  after- 


666  CALIFORNIA. 

noon  of  Sunday,  the  24th  of  August,  an  armed  party,  consisting  of  thirty-six 
members  of  the  Vigilance  Committee,  forcibly  broke  into  the  jail,  at  a  time  when 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams  happened  to  be  engaged  at  devotional  exercises  with  the 
prisoners,  among  whom  were  Whittaker  and  McKenzie.  The  slight  defense  of 
the  jailers  and  guards  was  of  no  avail.  The  persons  named  were  seized,  and 
hurried  to  and  placed  within  a  coach,  that  had  been  kept  in  readiness  a  few  steps 
from  the  prison.  The  carriage  instantly  was  driven  off  at  full  speed,  and  nearly 
at  the  snme  moment  the  ominous  bell  of  the  Monumental  Engine  Company  rapidly 
and  loudly  tolled  for  the  immediate  assemblage  of  the  committee  and  the  knell 
itself  of  the  doomed.  The  whole  population  leaped  with  excitement  at  the  sound; 
and  immense  crowds  from  the  remotest  quarter  hurried  to  Battery-street.  There 
blocks,  with  the  necessary  tackle,  had  been  hastily  fastened  to  two  beams  which 
projected  over  the  windows  of  the  great  hall  of  the  committee.  Within  seventeen 
minutes  after  the  arrival  of  the  prisoners,  they  were  both  dangling  by  the  neck 
from  these  beams.  The  loose  extremities  of  the  halters  being  taken  within  the 
building  itself  and  forcibly  held  by  members  of  the  committee.  Full  six  thousand 
people  were  present,  who  kept  an  awful  silence  during  the  short  time  these  prepa 
rations  lasted.  But  so  soon  as  the  wretches  were  swung  off,  one  tremendous  shout 
of  satisfaction  burst  from  the  excited  multitude;  and  then  there  was  silence 
again. 

This  was  the  last  time,  for  years,  that  the  committee  took  or  found  occasion  to 
exercise  their  functions.  Henceforward  the  administration  of  justice  might  be 
safely  left  in  the  hands  of  the  usual  officials.  The  city  now  was  pretty  well 
cleansed  of  crime.  The  fate  of  Jenkins,  Stuart,  Whittaker  and  McKenzie  showed 
that  rogues  and  roguery,  of  whatever  kind,  could  no  longer  expect  to  find  a  safe 
lurking-place  in  San  Francisco.  Many  of  the  suspected,  and  such  as  were  warned 
off  by  the  committee,  had  departed,  and  gone,  some  to  other  lands,  and  some  into 
the  mining  regions  and  towns  of  the  interior.  Those,  however,  who  still  clung  to 
California,  found  no  refuge  anywhere  in  the  state.  Previously,  different  cases  of 
lynch  law  had  occurred  in  the  gold  districts,  but  these  were  solitary  instances 
which  had  been  caused  by  the  atrocity  of  particular  crimes.  When,  however,  the 
Vigilance  Committee  of  San  Francisco  had  started  up,  fully  organized,  and  began 
their  great  work,  Sacramento,  Stockton,  San  Jose,  as  well  as  other  towns  and  the 
more  thickly  peopled  mining  quarters,  likewise  formed  their  committees  of  vigil 
ance  and  safety,  and  pounced  upon  all  the  rascals  within  their  bounds.  These 
associations  interchanged  information  with  each  other  as  to  the  movements  of  the 
suspected;  and  all,  with  the  hundred  eyes  of  an  Argus  and  the  hundred  arms  of 
a  Briareus,  watched,  pursued,  harassed,  and  finally  caught  the  worst  desperadoes 
of  the  country.  Like  Cain,  a  murderer  and  wanderer,  as  most  of  them  were,  they 
bore  a  mark  on  the  brow,  by  which  they  were  known.  Some  were  hanged  at 
various  places,  some  were  lashed  and  branded,  but  the  greater  number  were  simply 
ordered  to  leave  the  country,  within  a  limited  time,  under  penalty  of  immediate 
death  if  found  after  a  stated  period  within  its  limits.  Justice  was  no  longer  blind 
or  leaden-heeled.  With  the  perseverance  and  speed  of  a  bloodhound,  she  tracked 
criminals  to  their  lair,  and  smote  them  where  they  lay.  Fora  long  time  afterward, 
the  whole  of  California  remained  comparatively  free  from  outrages  against  person 
and  property. 

From  all  the  evidence  that  can  be  obtained,  it  is  not  supposed  that  a  single  in 
stance  occurred  in  which  a  really  innocent  man  suffered  the  extreme  penalty  of 
death.  Those  who  were  executed  generally  confessed  their  guilt,  and  admitted 
the  punishment  to  have  been  merited." 

San  Francisco,  in  common  with  all  of  the  American  cities  in  California, 
has  suffered  terribly  from  tremendous  conflagrations.  The  towns  wfeen  first 
founded  were  composed  mostly  of  frail  wooden  tenements,  intermingled  with 
tents,  which  in  the  dry  season  became  like  tinder,  so  that  when  a  fire  broke  out 
and  got  headway  it  was  impossible  to  arrest  it.  San  Francisco,  Sacramento 
City,  Stockton,  and  other  places  were  several  times  successively  destroyed. 


CALIFORNIA. 

No  sooner,  however,  was  the  work  of  destruction  completed,  than  the  inhab 
itants  rushed  forth  like  so  many  bees,  and  dashing  aside  the  smoking  embers, 
went  to  work  to  build  new  habitations;  when  lo  !  in  a  twinkling,  a  fairer 
city  would  arise,  as  it  were  by  magic,  on  the  ashes  of  the  old,  called  forth 
by  the  matchless  energy  and  fertility  of  invention  of  the  most  extraordinary, 
wonder-working  body  of  men  that  had  ever  been  gathered  to  found  a  state — 
the  adventurous  and  enterprising  of  every  clime,  self-exiles,  driven  thither 
by  the  eager  thirst  for  gold. 

Before  midsummer  of  1851,  San  Francisco  had  been  visited  by  six  "great* 
fires,  most  of  them  the  work  of  incendiaries.  By  them  nearly  all  the  old  land 
marks  and  buildings  of  Yerba  Buena  had  been  obliterated,  and  the  total  value  of 
property  destroyed  amounted  to  about  twenty  millions.  The  most  destructive  was 
that  of  the  4th  May,  1851,  when,  in  the  short  space  of  ten  hours,  nearly  2,000 
houses  were  destroyed,  many  lives,  and  property  to  the  amount  of  from  ten  to 
twelve  millions. 

"A  considerable  number  of  buildings,  which  were  supposed  fire-proof,  had  been 
erected  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  year,  the  solid  walls  of  which,  it  was  thought, 
would  afford  protection  from  the  indefinite  spreading  of  the  flames,  when  fire 
should  unhappily  break  out  in  any  particular  building.  But  all  calculations  and 
hopes  on  this  subject  were  mocked  and  broken.  The  brick  walls  that  had  been  so 
confidently  relied  upon,  crumbled  in  pieces  before  the  furious  flames;  the  thick 
iron  shutters  grew  red  hot  and  warped,  and  only  increased  the  danger  and  insured 
final  destruction  to  everything  within  them.  Men  went  for  shelter  into  these 
fancied  fire-proof  brick  and  iron-bound  structures,  and  when  they  sought  to  come 
forth  again,  to  escape  the  heated  air  that  was  destroying  them  as  by  a  close  fire, 
they  found,  O  horror!  that  the  metal  shutters  and  doors  had  expanded  by  the  heat, 
and  could  not  be  opened!  So,  in  these  huge,  sealed  furnaces,  several  perished 

miserably San  Francisco  had  never  before  suffered  so  severe  a  blow, 

and  doubts  were  entertained  by  the  ignorant  that  she  could  possibly  recover  from 
its  effects.  Such  doubts  were  vain.  The  bay  was  still  there,  and  the  people  were 
also  there;  the  placers  of  the  state  were  not  yet  exhausted,  and  its  soil  was  as 
fertile  arid  inviting  as  ever.  The  frightful  calamity,  no  doubt,  would  retard  the 
triumphant  progress  of  the  city — but  only  for  a  time.  The  citizens  of  San  Fran 
cisco  were  content  only  to  curse  and  vow  vengeance  on  the  incendiaries  that 
kindled  the  fire,  and  resolved  to  be  better  prepared  in  future  to  resist  its  spreading 
ravages.  After  the  first  short  burst  of  sorrow,  the  ruined  inhabitants,  many  of 
whom  had  been  burnt  out  time  after  time  by  the  successive  fires,  began  again,  like 
the  often  persecuted  spider  with  its  new  web,  to  create  still  another  town  and 
another  fortune." 

The  city  of  San  Francisco  being  at  first  a  city  of  strangers,  the  post-office, 
on  the  arrival  of  the  monthly  steamer  from  the  Atlantic  states  was  the 
scene  of  exhibitions  of  an  interesting  character  from  the  assembled  multi 
tudes  that  gathered  for  letters,  most  from  loved  ones  at  home,  thousands  of 
miles  away. 

At  a  distance  they  looked  like  a  mob ;  but,  on  approaching,  one  would  find  that 
though  closely  packed  together,  the  people  were  all  in  six  strings,  the  head  of  each 
being  at  a  delivery  window,  from  whence  the  lines  twisted  up  and  down  in  all  di 
rections,  extending  along  the  streets  to  a  great  distance,  the  new  comers  being  at 
the  end  of  the  line.  So  anxious  were  many  to  receive  their  epistles  that  they 
posted  themselves  in  the  evening  of  one  day  to  be  early  at  the  window  on  the 
morning  of  the  next,  standing  all  night  in  the  mud,  often  with  a  heavy  rain  pour 
ing  on  their  heads.  "Hours  always  elapsed  before  one's  turn  came.  To  save  such 
delay,  sometimes  people  would  employ  and  handsomely  pay  others  to  preserve  places 
for  them,  which  they  would  occupy,  in  room  of  their  assistants,  when  they  were 
approaching  the  loop-holes  where  the  delivery  clerks  stood.  Ten  and  twenty  dol 
lars  were  often  paid  for  accommodation  in  this  way.  Some  of  these  eager  appli- 
oants  had  not  heard  from  their  far  distant  homes  for  many  long  months,  and  their 


CALIFORNIA. 

anxious  solicitude  was  even  painful.  It  was  therefore  exceedingly  distressing  to 
mark  the  despondency  with  which  many  would  turn  away  upon  hearing  from°tha 
delivery  clerks  the  oft-repeated  and  much-dreaded  sentence,  '  there  is  nothing  here 
for  you.'  On  the  other  hand,  it  was  equally  pleasing  to  observe  the  cheerful  and 
triumphant  smile,  not  unfrequently  accompanied  with  a  loud  exclamation  of  joy, 
that  would  light  up  the  countenance  of  the  successful  applicant,  who  hastens  from 
the  window,  and  as  soon  as  he  can  force  a  passage  through  the  crowd,  tears  open 
and  commences  to  read  the  more  than  welcome  letter,  every  word  of  which  awakens 
in  his  mind  some  tender  reminiscence." 


SACRAMENTO  CITY  is  the  second  city  in  commerce  and  population  in  Cal 
ifornia.  It  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sacramento,  a  little  below  the  mouth 
of  the  American,  in  the  midst  of  a  level  and  fertile  country :  distance,  by 
water,  140  miles  N.E.  of  San  Francisco.  It  has  great  advantages  as  a  cen 
ter  of  commerce,  being  accessible  for  sailing  vessels  and  steamers  of  a  large 
size  at  all  seasons:  both  the  Sacramento  and  its  important  branch,  the 
Feather  River,  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  far  above  into  the  interior  of 
the  country.  It  is  the  natural  trading  depot  for  all  the  great  mining  region 
of  the  north  Sacramento  valley.  The  site  being  low,  the  city  has  suffered 
in  its  early  history  by  disastrous  floods  in  the  rainy  season :  it  is  now  pro 
tected  by  levees.  Population  about  30,000. 

The  site  of  Sacramento  City  was  originally  in  possession  of  Capt.  John 
A*  Sutter,  a  Swiss  gentleman,  who  established  himself  in  the  country  in 
1839,  and  soon  after  built  "Sutter's  Fort,"  taking  possession  of  the  surround 
ing  country  under  a  Mexican  grant,  giving  to  it  the  name  of  New  Helvetia. 
"From  this  point  he  cut  a  road  to  the  junction  of  Sacramento  and  Ameri 
can  Eivers,  where  he  established  an  embarcadero  (quay,  or  landing  place), 
on  the  site  of  which  has  since  been  built  the  City  of  Sacramento.  Here  he 
renamed  for  several  years,  his  settlement  being  the  head-quarters  of  the 
immigrants,  who,  following  his  example,  poured  into  the  country  from  the 
American  states." 

Coloma  is  about  50  miles  N.E.  of  Sacramento  City,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
South  Fork  of  American  River.  It  contains  some  4,000  inhabitants. 

In  the  winter  of  1847-'48,  Capt.  Sutter  contracted  with  Mr.  James  W. 
Marshall,  an  emigrant  from  New  Jersey,  to  erect  a  saw  mill  on  the  river  near 
the  site  of  Coloma.  This  accidentally  led  to  the  discovery  of  gold,  which  at 
once  changed  the  history  of  California.  "  Marshall  one  day  in  January, 
having  allowed  the  whole  body  of  water  to  rush  through  the  tail-race  of  the 
mill  for  the  purpose  of  making  some  alterations  in  it,  observed,  while  walk 
ing  along  the  banks  of  the  stream  early  the  next  morning,  numerous  glisten 
ing  particles  among  the  sand  and  gravel,  which  had  been  carried  off  by  the 
force  of  the  increased  body  of  water.  For  a  while  he  paid  no  particular  at 
tention  to  them,  but  seeing  one  larger  and  brighter  than  the  rest,  he  was  in 
duced  to  examine  it,  and  found  it  to  be  a  scale  of  gold.  Collecting  several, 
he  immediately  hurried  to  Sutter,  and  began  his  tale  in  such  a  hurried  man 
ner,  and  accompanied  it  with  such  extravagant  promises  of  unbounded  wealth, 
that  the  captain  thought  him  demented,  and  looked  to  his  rifle  for  protec 
tion;  but  when  Marshall  threw  his  gold  upon  the  table,  he  was  forced  into 
the  delightful  conviction.  They  determined  to  keep  the  discovery  a  secret, 
but  were  observed  while  examining  the  river,  and  soon  had  immense  armies 
around  them." 

The  neighborhood  literally  overflowed  with  the  busy  gold  hunters,  and 


CALIFORNIA. 


669 


from  thence  they  rapidly  extended  to  the  different  gold  districts,  so  that  by 
midsummer  they  amounted  to  many  thousands.  At  first  the  general  gains 
of  the  miners,  though  great,  were  nothing  to  what  was  shortly  after  col 
lected.  The  average  was  usually  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  per  day.  Some 
met  with  extraordinary  success. 

"Well  authenticated  accounts  described  many  known  persons  as  averaging  from 
one  to  two  hundred  dollars  a  day  for  a  long  period.     Numerous  others  were  said 

to  be  earning  from  five  to 


A  piece  of  four  pounds  in 
weight  was  early  found. 
If,  indeed,  in  many  cases, 
a  man  with  a  pick  and  pan 
did  not  easily  gather  some 
thirty  or  forty  dollars  worth 
of  dust  in  a  single  day,  he 
just  moved  off  to  some 
other  place  which  he  sup 
posed  might  be  richer. 
When  the  miners  knew  a 
little  better  about  the  busi 
ness  and  the  mode  of  turn 
ing  their  labor  to  the  most 
profitable  account,  the  re 
turns  were  correspondingly 
increased.  At  what  were 
called  the  '  dry  diggings  ' 
particularly,  the  yield  of 
gold  was  enormous.  One 
piece  of  pure  metal  was 
found  of  thirteen  pounds 
weight.  The  common  in 
strument  at  first  made  use 
of  was  a  simple  butcher's 
knife ;  and  as  everything 
was  valuable  in  proportion 
to  the  demand  and  supply, 
butchers'  knives  suddenly 
went  up  to  twenty  and 
thirty  dollars  apiece.  But 
afterward  the  pick  and 
Bhovel  were  employed.  The  auriferous  earth,  dug  out  of  ravines  and  holes  in  the 
sides  of  the  mountains,  was  packed  on  horses,  and  carried  one,  two,  or  three  miles, 
to  the  nearest  water,  to  be  washed.  An  average  price  of  this  washing  dirt  was,  at 
this  period,  so  much  as  four  hundred  dollars  a  cart  load.  In  one  instance,  five 
loads  of  such  earth  sold  for  seven  hundred  and  fifty-two  dollars,  which  yielded, 
after  washing,  sixteen  thousand  dollars.  Cases  occurred  where  men  carried  the 
earth  in  sacks  on  their  backs  to  the  watering  places,  and  collected  eight  to  fifteen 
hundred  dollars  in  a  day,  as  the  proceeds  of  their  labor.  Individuals  made  their 
five  thousand,  ten  thousand,  and  fifteen  thousand  dollars  in  the  space  of  only  a 
few  weeks.  One  man  dug  out  twelve  thousand  dollars  in  six  days.  Three  others 
obtained  eight  thousand  dollars  in  a  single  day.  But  these,  of  course,  were  ex 
treme  cases.  Still  it  was  undoubtedly  true,  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  miners 
were  earning  such  sums  as  they  had  never  even  seen  in  their  lives  before,  and 
which,  six  months  earlier,  would  have  appeared  a  downright  fable. 

The  story  has  a  shady  as  well  as  a  bright  side,  and  would  be  incomplete  unless 
both  were  shown.  There  happened  to  be  a  '  sickly  season '  in  the  autumn  at  the 
mines;  many  of  the  miners  sank  under  fever  and  diseases  of  the  bowels.  A  severe 
kind  of  labor,  to  which  most  had  been  unaccustomed,  a  complete  change  of  diet 


M:iTEE'8  MILL. 
Where  Gold  was  first  discovered. 


670 


CALIFORNIA. 


and  habits,  insufficient  shelter,  continued  mental  exciiement,  and  the  excesses  in 
personal  amusement  and  dissipation  which  golden  gains  induced,  added  to  the  nat 
ural  unhealthiness  that  might  have  existed  in  the  district  at  different  periods  of 
the  year,  soon  introduced  sore  bodily  troubles  upon  many  of  the  mining  popula 
tion.  No  gains  could  compensate  a  dying 
man  for  the  fatal  sickness  engendered  by 
his  own  avaricious  exertions.  In  the 
wild  race  for  riches,  the  invalid  was  neg 
lected  by  old  comrades  still  in  rude  health 
and  the  riotous  enjoyment  of  all  the 
pleasures  that  gold  and  the  hope  of  con 
tinually  adding  to  their  store  could  be 
stow.  When  that  was  the  case  with  old 
companions,  it  could  not  be  expected  that 
strangers  should  care  whether  the  sick 
man  lived  or  died.  Who  forsooth  among 
the  busy  throng  would  trouble  himself 
with  the  feeble  miner  that  had  miscalcu 
lated  his  energies,  and  lay  dying  on  the 
earthen  floor  of  his  tent  or  under  the  pro 
tecting  branch  of  a  tree  ?  Many,  not  so 
far  reduced,  were  compelled  to  return  to 
their  old  homes,  the  living  spectres  of 
their  former  selves,  broken  in  constitu 
tion  and  wearied  in  spirit;  thoroughly 
satisfied  that  the  diggings  were  not  fit 
abiding  places  for  them. 

The  implements  at  first  used  in  the 
process  of  gold  seeking,  were  only  the 
common  pick  and  shovel,  and  a  tin  pan 
or  wooden  bowl.  The  auriferous  earth 
when  dug  out  was  put  into  the  last,  and 
water  being  mixed  with  it,  the  contents 
were  violently  stirred.  A  peculiar  shake 
of  the  hand  or  wrist,  best  understood  and 
learned  by  practice,  threw  occasionally 
over  the  edge  of  the  pan  or  bowl  the 
muddy  water  and  earthy  particles,  while 
the  metal,  being  heavier,  sunk  to  the  bot 
tom.  Repeated  washings  of  this  nature, 
assisted  by  breaking  the  hard  pieces  of 
earth  with  the  hand  or  a  trowel,  soon  ex 
tricated  the  gold  from  its  covering  and 
carried  away  all  the  dirt.  But  if  even 
these  simple  implements  were  not  to  be 
had,  a  sailor's  or  butcher's  knife,  or  even 
a  sharpened  hard-pointed  stick  could  pick 
out  the  larger  specimens — the  pepitas, 
chunks,  or  nuggets,  of  different  miners — 
while  the  finer  scales  of  gold  could  be 
washed  from  the  covering  earth  in  Indian 

willow-woven  baskets,  clay  cups,  old  hats,  or  any  rude  apology  for  a  dish ;  or  the 
dried  sand  could  be  exposed  on  canvas  to  the  wind,  or  diligently  blown  by  the 
breath,  until  nothing  was  left  but  the  particles  of  pure  gold  that  were  too  heavy  to 
be  carried  away  by  these  operations.  Afterward  the  rocker  or  cradle  and  Long 
Tom  were  introduced,  which  required  several  hands  to  feed  and  work  them;  and 
the  returns  by  which  were  correspondingly  great.  Every  machine,  however,  was 
worked  on  the  same  principle,  by  rocking  or  washing,  of  separating  by  the  me 
chanical  means  of  gravitation,  the  heavier  particles — the  gold  from  stones,  and  the 
lighter  ones  of  earth. 


CALIFORNIA. 


671 


Provisions  and  necessaries,  as  might  have  been  expected,  soon  rose  in  price 
enormously.  At  first  the  rise  was  moderate  indeed,  four  hundred  per  cent,  for  flour, 
five  hundred  for  beef  cattle,  while  other  things  were  in  proportion.  But  these 
were  trifles.  The  time  soon  came  when  eggs  were  sold  at  one,  two,  and  three  dol 
lars  apiece ;  inferior  sugar,  tea,  and  coffee,  at  four  dollars  a  pound  in  small  quan 
tities,  or  three  or  four  hundred  dollars  a  barrel;  medicines — say,  for  laudanum,  a 
dollar  a  drop  (actually  forty  dollars  were  paid  for  a  dose  of  that  quantity),  and  ten 
dollars  a  pill  or  purge,  without  advice,  or  with  it,  from  thirty,  up,  aye,  to  one  hun 
dred  dollars.  Spirits  were  sold  at  various  prices,  from  ten  to  forty  dollars  a  quart ; 
and  wines  at  about  as  much  per  bottle." 

Among  the  modes  of  mining  early  adopted  was  one  termed  "  cayoteing,"  or  drift 
ing.  The  word  is  derived  from  cayote,  the  name  applied  to  the  prairie  wolf,  and 
as  used,  means  burrowing,  after  the  manner  of  that  animal.  Cayoeting  was  only 
necessary  in  those  cases  where  the  gold  by  its  superior  weight  had  sunk  through 
the  surface  earth,  until  it  had  reached  the  layer  of  clay  on  the  bed  rock,  often 
many  fathoms  from  the  top.  Having  reached  by  a  shaft  the  "hard  pan,"  the  miner 
then  ran  passages  horizontally  in  search  of  the  gold,  taking  care  to  prop  up  the 
roofs  of  these  passages.  Often,  however,  these  have  slowly  yielded  under  the  im 
mense  masses  above,  and  buried  the  gold  hunter  beyond  all  human  resurrection. 
Cayoteing  has  been  superseded  by  tunneling.  Tunnels  are  run  into  the  sides  of 
mountains,  following  the  uneven  surface  of  the  bed  rock.  Some  of  these  are  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  or  more  in  length  and  involve  an  immense  labor  and  expense. 
From  them  the  "pay  dirt"  is  carried  out  of  the  mine  in  carts  drawn  by  mules  over 
railroads. 

The  old  mining  localities  of  California,  the  flats  and  bars  of  rivers,  are  now 
pretty  much  exhausted,  and  there  is  very  little  of  the  old  modes  of  mining  fol 
lowed,  excepting  by  the  Chinese,  who,  content  with  small  earnings,  take  up  the 
abandoned  claims.  Tunneling,  quarts,  sluice,  and  hydraulic  mining  are  now  the 
means  by  which  the  larger  part  of  the  gold  is  obtained.  Through  the  improvements 
in  machinery  and  contrivances  for  saving  the  gold,  the  yield  is  constantly  aug 
menting,  and  as  the  gold  region  of  California  comprises  a  tract  about  as  large  as 
all  New  England,  it  is  presumed  that  the  state  for  100  years  to  come  will  continue 
to  yield  at  least  as  much  as  since  the  first  discovery — viz:  fifty  millions  per 
annum. 

The  most  efficient  mode  of  operation  is  hydraulic  mining.  A  heavy  current  of 
water  is  poured  from  a  hose  and  pipe,  precisely  on  the  principle  of  a  fire  engine, 
upon  a  side  hill.  For  instance,  "  at  North  San  Juan,  near  the  middle  fork  of  tho 
Y"uba,  streams  at  least  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  probably  containing  twenty 
measured  inches  of  water,  are  directed  against  the  remaining  half  of  a  high  hill, 
which  they  strike  with  such  force  that  bowlders  of  the  size  of  cannon  balls  are 
Btarted  from  their  beds  and  hurled  five  to  ten  feet  in  the  air.  By  this  process,  one 
man  will  wash  away  a  bank  of  earth  like  a  haystack  sooner  than  a  hundred  men 
could  do  it  by  old-fashioned  sluicing.  Earth  yielding  a  bare  cent's  worth  to  the 
pan  may  be  profitably  washed  by  this  process,  paying  a  reasonable  price  for  the 
water.  As  much  as  *$100  per  day  is  profitably  paid  for  the  water  thrown  through 
one  pipe.  The  stream  thus  thrown  will  knock  a  man  as  lifeless  as  though  it  were 
a  grape-shot  As  the  bank,  over  a  hundred  feet  high,  is  undermined  by  this  bat 
tery,  it  frequently  caves  from  the  top  downward,  reaching  and  burying  the  careless 
operator.  Very  long  sluices — as  long  as  may  be — conduct  the  discharged  water 
away ;  and  it  is  no  matter  how  thick  with  earth  the  water  may  run,  provided  the 
sluice  be  long  enough.  It  is  of  course  so  arranged  as  to  present  riffles,  crevices, 
etc.,  to  arrest  the  gold  at  first  borne  along  by  the  turbid  flood.  There  are  compa 
nies  operating  by  this  method  whose  gross  receipts  from  a  single  sluice  have 
reached  a  thousand  dollars  per  day." 

"  In  California  the  whole  art  of  placer-mining  was  revolutionized  by  this  hy 
draulic  process,  and  the  production  of 'gold  received  a  fresh  and  lasting  impulse. 
Square  miles  of  surface  on  the  hills,  rich  in  gold,  which  have  lain  untouched,  now 
yield  up  their  treasure  to  the  hydraulic  miner.  In  that  region,  where  labor  can 
scarcely  be  obtained,  and  is  so  costly,  water  becomes  the  great  substitute  for  it, 
and,  as  we  have  seen,  is  more  effective  and  economical  in  its  action  that  the  labor 


672 


CALIFORNIA. 


of  men.     Every  inch  of  water  which  can  be  brought  to  bear  upon  a  placer  is  valu 
as  the  representative,  or  producer,  of  a  certain  amount  of  gold.     Wherever  it  fa 


r— \ 


HYDRAULIC   MINING. 


valued 

representative,  or  producer,  ot  a  certain  amount  01  gold,  wnerever  it  falls 
upon  the  auriferous  earth  it  liberates  the  precious  metal,  and  if  the  gold  is  uni 
formly  distributed  through  the  earth,  the  amount  produced  is  directly  as  the 

quantity  of  water  used.     As  a  la- 

„--— ~ bor  saving  process,  the  results  of 

this    method    compare  favorably 
with  those  obtained  by  machinery 
\  in  the  various  departments  of  hu 

man  industry,  where  manual  la 
bor  has  been  superseded. 

It  is  stated  that  at  the  close  of 
the  year  1858  there  were  5,726 
miles  of  artificial  water-courses 
for  mining  purposes  in  the  state 
of  California,  constructed  at  a 
cost  of  over  13  millions  of  dollars. 
This  estimate  is  exclusive  of  sev 
eral  hundred  miles  of  new  canals 
in  course  of  construction,  and  of 
the  many  subordinate  branches 
of  the  canals,  the  aggregate  length 
of  which  is  estimated  at  over  one 
thousand  miles.  Most  of  the  canals 
have  been  constructed  by  individ 
uals,  or  small  companies  of  from 
three  to  ten  persons,  but  the  works 
compare  in  their  magnitude  and 
cost  with  the  most  important  pub 
lic  works. 

A  vast  deal  of  this  canaling  is  over  the  most  wild,  rocky,  and  precipitous  coun 
try ;  jumping  over  awful  chasms,  and  plunging  down  fearful  abysses;  trestle  work, 
story  piled  upon  story,  and  wooden  fluming  zigzagged  at  every  angle  (rough  as  yet, 
truly,  but  with  strength  adequate  to  its  purpose),  may  be  seen  winding  for  miles 
and  miles  its  tortuous  course,  leading  mountain  streams  far  away  from  their  native 
channels,  an,d  giving  to  the  driest  diggings  water  superabundant.  The  waterfall 
at  the  end  is  generally  very  great,  and'  it  is  turned  to  curious  account. 

Next  to  the  hydraulic  process  of  hose-washing,  the  most  important  application 
of  water  in  placer  mining  is  in  sluicing.  The  sluice  is  a  long  channel  or  raceway, 
cut  either  in  the  surface  of  the  bed  rock  or  made  of  boards.  The  former  is  known 
as  the  ground-sluice,  and  the  latter  as  the  board-sluice.  J*he  ground  sluice  is  cut 
in  the  softened  surface  or  outcrop  of  the  bed-rocks,  which  are  generally  of  slate, 
presenting  upturned  edges  like  the  leaves  of  a  book.  In  the  softened  mica  slates 
this  resemblance  is  very  great,  and  the  surface  is  highly  favorable  to  the  retention 
of  particles  of  gold.  It  is  easily  cleaned  up,  as  one  or  two  inches  in  depth  of  the 
surface  may  usually  be  scraped  off  with  the  shovel.  The  board-sluice  is  generally 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  in  width,  and  from  eight  to  ten  inches  deep,  and  is  made  in 
convenient  lengths,  so  that  one  can  be  added  to  another,  until  a  length  of  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  or  more  is  obtained.  False  bottoms  of  boards  are  often  used 
to  facilitate  the  retention  of  the  gold,  while  the  stones  and  gravel  are  swept  away 
by  the  rapid  flow  of  the  water.  Long  bars  or  rifflers  are  generally  preferred  to 
cross  cleats  or  holes.  The  fall  or  rate  of  descent  of  the  bottom  of  the  sluice  is 
varied  according  to  circumstances,  being  arranged  to  suit  the  size  of  the  gold  and 
the  nature  of  the  drift.  Ole  or  two  feet  in  a  rod,  or  one  foot  in  twelve,  is  a  com-' 
mon  inclination,  and  with  a  good  supply  of  water  will  cause  stones  several  inches 
in  diameter  to  roll  from  one  end  of  the  sluice  to  the  other.  The  earth,  stones  and 
gold  as  they  enter  these  sluices  with  the  water,  are  all  mingled  together,  but  the 
current  soon  effects  a  separation ;  the  lighter  portions  are  swept  on  in  advance,  and 
the  gold  remains  behind,  moving  slowly  forward  on  the  bottom  until  it  drops  down, 
between  the  cleats  or  bars.  The  larger  stones  and  coarse  gravel  are  swept  on  by 


CALIFORNIA. 


073 


the  current,  and  after  traversing  the  whole  length  of  the  sluice,  are  thrown  out  at 
the  lower  end.  The  operation,  as  in  the  hydraulic  or  hose  process,  with  which  the 
sluice  is  always  combined,  is  a  continuous  one,  and  requires  comparatively  little 
labor  or  attention,  except  to  keep  the  sluice  from  clogging.  In  some  localities, 
where  the  depth  of  the  auriferous  gravel  and  overlying  clay  and  soil  is  not  great, 

water  may  be  used  to  as  great  ad 
vantage  in  the  sluice  as  under 
pressure.  It  has  this  advantage, 
that  the  auriferous  earth  may  be 
washed  as  high  up  as  the  source 
of  supply.  The  process  is  a  close 
imitation  of  the  operations  of  na 
ture  in  concentrating  gold  in  the 
deposits  along  the  streams." 

Quartz  mining  is  the  reduc 
tion  to  powder  of  the  vein 
stone,  which  contains  the 
gold,  which  is  extracted  from  the 
powder  by  means  of  water,  quick 
silver,  etc.  There  are  so  many 
practical  difficulties  in  the  way 
that  it  is  very  rarely  attended  with 
success,  as  the  expenses  eat  up 
the  profits,  the  gold  not  usually 
averaging  more  than  one  cent  in 
a  pound  of  rock.  The  quartz 
works  at  Allison's  Ranche,.  in 
Grass  Valley,  and  those  at  Fre 
mont's  Ranche,  in  Bear  Valley, 
are  worked  to  great  profit.  Col. 

^^^^  Fremont's  mines  produce  gold  to 

the  value  of  several  hundred  thousand  dollars  per  annum,  though  at  an  immense 
outlay  for  mills,  waterworks,  etc.  His  great  mine,  it  is  supposed,  contains  10  mil 
lions  of  dollars  worth  of  gold  above  the  water  level  of  the  Merced,  from  near 
which  it  rises  up  a  pyramid  of  gold-bearing  quartz,  inclosed  in  a  mountain  of 
slate. 


FREMONT'S  RA.NCHE. 


Marys/wile,  the  chief  town  of  northern  California,  is  located  at  the  junc 
tion  of  the  Yuba  and  Feather  Rivers,  just  above  their  union  with  the  Sacra 
mento,  about  40  miles  north  of  Sacramento  City.  It  is  a  well  built  town, 
principally  of  brick,  and  at  the  head  of  navigation  in  the  direction  of  the 
northern  mines.  The  country  around  it  is  of  great  fertility,  and  the  town 
itself  rapidly  growing.  Population  about  16,000. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Marysville,  and  easterly,  toward  the  slopes  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  are  the  important  mining  towns  of  Nevada,  Grass  Valley,  Auburn, 
Placerville,  Diamond,  Mera  Springs.  North  of  it,  near  the  north  line  of  the 
state,  are  the  little  thriving  towns  of  Shasta  City  and  Yreka,  the  former  de 
riving  its  name  from  Mount  Shasta,  in  its  vicinity,  at  the  head  of  Sacramento 
valley,  the  highest  mountain  in  California,  a  vast  cone  of  snow  rising  to  the 
bight  of  15,000  feet  into  the  blue  above. 

Stockton  disputes  with  Marysville  the  reputation  of  being  the  third  city  in 
importance  in  the  state:  and  is  the  depot  for  the  southern  mines.  It  is  sit 
uated  on  a  bayou  of  Sun  Joaquin,  at  the  head  of  regular  steamboat  naviga 
tion,  and  is  48  miles  south  of  Sacramento  City,  and  by  water  125  miles  ea>st 
of  San  Francisco.  The  channel  is  navigable  for  steamboats  and  vessels  of 
43 


CALIFORNIA. 

400  tuns,  affording  at  all  seasons  ready  communication  with  the  Pacific,  and 
the  town  has  an  extensive  carrying  trade.  Here  is  the  State  Insane  Asylum, 
a  cabinet  of  natural  history,  and  an  Artesian  well  of  1,000  feet  in  depth. 
Stockton  has  some  fine  fruit  gardens,  and  the  foliage  of  these,  together  with 
an  abundance  of  wide  spreading  oaks,  gives  the  place  a  grateful  aspect. 
Population  about  16,000. 

Sonora,  the  most  important  mining  town  in  the  southern  mines,  lies  130 
miles  east  of  San  Francisco,  and  about  60  east  of  Stockton,  and  contains 
some  4,000  inhabitants.  North-westerly  from  it  are  the  mining  towns  of 
Mokelumne  Hill,  Columbia,  and  Murpheys.  At  the  former  is  a  noted  mining 
canal  of  40  miles  in  length.  Within  15  miles  of  the  latter,  86  from  Stock 
ton,  and  213  from  San  Francisco,  is  the  famous  "Mammoth  Tree  Grove.'' 
A  late  visitor  gives  this  description : 

The  "  Big  Tree  Grove  "  occupies  a  space  of  about  fifty  acres,  other  evergreen  trees 
being  interspersed  among  them.  The  ground  is  "claimed"  by  the  owners  of  the 
hotel,  to  whom  it  will  prove  a  pretty  fortune.  It  occupies  a  level  plateau  in  the 
Sierra  Mountains,  and  is  elevated  4,500  feet  above  tide  water.  The  mammoth  trees 
are  of  a  species  unknown  except  in  California. 

The  bark  is  very  porous,  so  that  it  is  used  for  pincushions.  It  is  on  some  of  the 
trees  nearly  two  feet  thick!  The  foliage  is  of^a  deep  green,  like  that  of  the  arbor 
vitae,  and  the  seeds  are  contained  in  a  small  cone.  The  wood  is  of  a  red  color,  like 
the  cedar,  and  somewhat  like  the  redwood  of  California.  Still  the  tree  differs  from 
all  these  essentially.  It  is  estimated  by  calculations  based  on  the  rings  or  layers 
which  indicate  the  annual  growth,  that  the  largest  of  these  trees  are  more  than 
three  thousand  years  old  !  A  correspondent  of  the  London  Times  made  one,  of  the 
wood  and  bark  of  which  he  had  a  specimen,  six  thousand  four  hundred  and  eight 
years  old.  They  are  no  doubt  "  the  oldest  inhabitants  "  of  the  state.  A  path  has 
been  made  through  the  grove,  leading  by  the  most  notable  specimens,  and  each  has 
been  named,  and  has  a  label  of  wood  or  tin  attached,  on  which  is  inscribed  its 
name  and  size.  In  several  cases,  beautiful  white  marble  tablets,  with  raised  let 
ters,  have  been  let  into  the  bark.  There  are,  in  all,  ninety  four  of  these  monster 
trees,  with  multitudes  of  others  from  a  foot  high  and  upward. 

Near  the  house  is  the  stump  of  a  tree  that  was  felled  in  1853  by  the  vandals. 
The  stump  is  seven  feet  high,  and  measures  in  diameter,  at  the  top,  thirty  feet.  I 
paced  it,  and  counted  thirty  paces  across  it.  A  canvas  house  has  been  erected  over 
and  around  it,  and  a  floor  laid  on  the  same  level  adjoining,  and  here  dances  are 
often  had  upon  the  stump,  whose  top  has  been  smoothed  for  the  purpose.  Four 
quadrilles  have  been  performed  at  once  upon  it,  and  the  Alleghanians  once  gave  a 
concert  to  about  fifty  persons  here,  performers  and  audience  all  occupying  the 
stump.  A  portion  of  the  trunk  lies  on  the  ground,  divested  of  bark,  and  steps. 
twenty-six  in  number,  have  been  erected,  as  nearly  perpendicular  as  possible,  by 
which  visitors  ascend  its  side  as  it  lies  upon  the  ground.  The  vandals  had  a  hard 
job  when  they  cut  down  this  giant.  It  was  accomplished  by  boring  a  series  of 
holes  with  a  large  auger  to  the  center  and  completely  round  it,  the  holes  being  of 
course  fifteen  feet  deep  each.  Five  men  worked  steadily  for  25  days ;  and  then 
so  plumb  was  the  tree  that  it  would  not  fall.  After  trying  various  means  to  topple 
it  over,  at  length  they  cut  a  large  tree  near  it  so  that  it  should  fall  against  it,  but 
still  it  stood.  A  second  attempt  with  another  tree  was  successful,  and  it  was  forced 
over,  and  fell  with  a  crash  which  made  everything  tremble,  and  which  reverberated 
far  and  near  through  the  mountains  and  forests.  The  solid  trunk  snapped  in  sev 
eral  places  like  a  pipe-stem.  The  top  of  the  stump  is  as  large  as  the  space  length- 
{  wise  between  the  walls  of  two  parlors,  with  folding  doors,  of  fifteen  feet  each. 
Imagine  the  side  walls  spread  apart  to  double  their  width,  and  then  the  stump 
would  fill  all  the  space  !  But  at  the  roots,  seven  feet  lower,  it  is  much  larger. 

"  Hercules"  is  the  largest  perfect  standing  tree,  and  it  has  been  computed  to 
contain  seven  hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand  feet  of  lumber,  or  enough  to  load 
a  large  clipper  ship.  It  leans  remarkably  toward  one  side,  so  that  the  top  is  from 


CALIFORNIA. 


675 


forty  to  fifty  feet  out  of  the  perpendicular.  It  should  have  been  named  u  The 
^eaning  Tower."  It  is  thirty-three  feet  between  two  roots  that  enter  the  ground 
near  opposite  sides  of  the  trunk. 


Mammoth  Tree  Grove,  in  the  Valley  of  the  Calaveras. 

The  trees  are  evergreens  and  ninety -four  of  them  are  yet  standing,  many  of  which  rise  to  more  that 
300  feet  in  hight.  One,  which  has  blown  down,  measured  110  feet  in  circumference,  nnd  was  450  liinh 
Another,  which  had  fallen  and  is  hollow,  is  ridden  through  on  horseback  for  75  feet.  Some  of  tli^in  nre 
estimated  to  be  more  than  3,000  years  old.  The  bark  is  nearly  two  feet  thick,  and  being  porous  is  used  t'«>r 
pincushions. 

"The  Husband  and  Wife"  seem  very  affectionate,  leaning  toward  each  other  *•> 
that  their  tops  touch.  They  are  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  sixty  end)  in 
circumference.  "  The  Family  Group"  consists  of  two  very  large  trees,  the  father 
and  mother,  with  a  family  of  grownup  children,  twenty-four  in  number,  around 
them,  all  large  enough  to  be  of 'age  and  to  speak  for  themselves  !  The  father  blew 
down  many  years  ago,  having  become  feeble  from  old  age.  The  trunk  is  hollow  as 
it  lies  upon  the  ground,  and  would  accommodate  half  a  regiment  with  quarters. 


676  CALIFORNIA. 

The  circumference  is  one  hundred  and  ten  feet,  or  upward  of  thirty-three  diame 
ter  !  Its  hight  was  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  as  great  as  that  of  the  dome  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Home !  Near  what  was  the  base  of  the  trunk,  and  within  the  cavity, 
there  is  now  a  never-failing  pond  of  water,  fed  by  a  spring.  Nearly  half  the  trunk 
is  embedded  in  the  ground.  The  mother  still  stands  amid  her  children  and  little 
grandchildren.  She  327  feet  high,  91  feet  in  circumference — a  stately  old  dame  ! 

"  The  Horseback  Ride  "  is  an  old  hollow  tree  fallen  and  broken  in  two.  I  rode  through 
the  trunk  a  distance  of  75  feet  on  horseback,  with  a  good  sized  horse,  as  did  my  wife  also. 
"  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin  "  is  hollow  for  some  distance  above  the  base,  and  25  persons  can 
seat  themselves  in  the  space. 

"  The  Mother  of  the  Forest  "  is  90  feet  round,  and  328  feet  high.  To  the  hight  of  116 
feet  the  bark  has  been  taken  off  by  some  speculators,  who  carried  it  in  sections  to  Paris, 
for  exhibition.  The  staging  on  which  they  worked  is  still  standing  around  the  trunk.  But 
so  immense  was  the  size  indicated,  that  the  Parisians  would  not  believe  it  was  all  from 
one  tree,  and  charged  the  exhibitor  with  Yankee  trickery,  and  branded  the  whole  thing  a 
humbug,  and  as  the  result  be  lost  considerable  money  in  his  speculation.  The  tree  is  now 
dead. 

In  one  place  we  saw  a  small  part  of  the  trunk  of  what  was  an  enormous  tree,  which  had 
fallen  probably  centuries  ago,  and  become  imbedded  in  the  earth,  and  so  long  ago  did  this 
happen,  that  three  very  large  trees  had  grown  up  over  its  butt  so  as  to  inclose  it  with  their 
roots  completely.  It  was  ludicrous  to  see  as  we  did  in  one  place,  near  one  of  the  largest 
trees,  a  little  one,  about  two  feet  high,  growing  from  the  seed  of  the  large  one,  and  evi 
dently  starting  with  high  hopes  and  youthful  ambition  in  the  race  of  life.  What  a  job, 
thought  I,  Las  that  little  fellow  before  him  to  work  himself  up  300  or  400  feet  to  reach  the 
altitude  of  his  father  and  uncles  and  aunts.  But  we  bid  him  God  speed,  and  I  doubt  not, 
if  he  perseveres,  he  will  one  da)7  stand  as  proudly  erect  as  his  ancestors,  and  three  thous 
and  years  hence  he  will  be  an  object  of  as  great  curiosity  and  reverence  to  those  who  shall 
come  after  us  as  "  Hercules  "  is  now  to  us!  What  will  be  the  condition  and  population 
of  California  and  of  the  United  States  then? 

But,  seriously,  I  think  I  never  was  inspired  with  greater  awe  by  an  object  on  which  I 
looked,  than  I  felt  when  I  walked  about  among  these  noble  and  ancient  "  sons  of  the  for 
est,"  or  rather  patriarchs  of  the  wood.  To  think  that  I  stood  beside  and  looked  up  toward 
the  towering  heads  of  trees  that  were  standing,  or  at  least  had  begun  their  growth,  when 
Solomon's  Temple  was  commenced;  that  were  more  than  a  thousand  years  old  when  the 
Savior  of  men  trod  the  soil  of  Palestine;  were  ancients  at  the  period  of  the  Crusades! 
One  sees  in  Europe  old  castles,  and  looks  wrth  reverence  upon  them  as  he  thinks  of  their 
hoary  antiquity,  but  these  trees  were  between  one  thousand  and  two  thousand  years  old 
when  the  foundations  of  the  oldest  building  now  standing  in  Europe  were  laid.  I  can 
think  of  but  one  thing  more  awe  inspiring,  and  that  is  the  group  of  Egyptian  pyramids. 

One  must  actually  look  upon  these  objects,  however,  to  realize  the  impression  they 
make.  He  must  study  their  proportions,  calculate  their  altitude,  compare  them  with  other 
large  trees  or  lofty  objects,  and  he  must  do  this  repeatedly  before  he  can  take  in  the  idea. 
It  is  a  universal  remark  of  visitors  that  the  conception  of  the  reality  grows  upon  them 
every  time  they  examine  them,  and  that,  at  first  sight,  as  in  the  case  of  Niagara  Fulls, 
there  is  a  feeling  of  disappointment. 

Seeds  have  been  sent  to  Europe,  and  scattered  over  our  Union,  and  trees  are  growing 
from  them  in  some  parts  of  the  United  States,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  in  any  other  soil 
or  climate  than  that  of  California,  they  will  ever  make  such  a  growth  as  is  seen  here. 

One  thing  is  remarkable  about  these  trees,  viz:  that  although  of  such  an  immense  age, 
many  of  them,  yet  where  they  have  been  unmolested  by  man  and  unscathed  by  fire,  they 
still  seem  sound  to  the  core  and  vigorous,  the  foliage  is  bright  and  constantly  growing,  and 
one  can  not  see  why  they  may  not  live  one  thousand  or  two  thousand  years  more.  The 
spot  where  they  stand  is  beautiful.  "  We  enter  a  dell,"  says  Dr.  Bushnell, "  quietly  lapped 
in  the  mountains,  where  the  majestic  vegetable  minarets  are  crowded,  as  in  some  city  of 
pilgrimage,  there  to  look  up,  for  the  first  time,  in  silent  awe  of  the  mere  life  principle." 
There  is  another  grove  as  remarkable  in  Mariposa  county,  and  smaller  collections  of  the 
same  species  elsewhere,  but  they  are  not  common  all  over  the  state. 

Dr.  Bushnell's  theory  of  the  enormous  growths  of  California,  is  that  the  secret  lies  in 
ihese  things — "  First,  a  soil  too  deep  and  rich  for  any  growth  to  measure  it;  second,  a 
natural  under-supply  of  water  or  artificial  irrigation;  next,  the  settings  of  fruit  are  limited. 
And  then,  as  no  time  is  lost  in  cloudings  and  rain,  and  the  sun  drives  on  his  work  unim 
peded,  month  by  month,  the  growth  is  pushed  to  its  utmost  limit.  But  these  [enormous 
occasional  specimens]  are  freaks  or  extravagances  of  nature — only  such  as  can  be  equaled 
nowhere  else.  The  big  trees  depend,  in  part,  on  these  same  contingencies,  and  partly  on 
the  remarkable  longevity  of  their  species.  A  tree  that  is  watered  without  rain,  having  a 


CALIFORNIA. 

deep  vegetable  mold  in  which  to  stand,  and  not  so  much  as  one  hour's  umbrella  of  cloud 
to  fence  off  the  sun  for  the  whole  warm  season,  and  a  capacity  to  live  withal  for  two 
thousand  years  or  more,  may  as  well  grow  three  hundred  and  fifty  or  four  hundred  feet 
high  and  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter,  and  show  the  very  center  point  or  pith  still  sound 
at  the  age  of  thirteen  hundred  [or  three  thousand]  years,  as  to  make  any  smaller  figure." 

Coultersville  and  Mariposa  are  mining  towns,  south-easterly  from  Stockton. 
Near  Mariposa  is  Fremont's  Vein,  and  45  miles  east  of  Coultersville  is  the 
celebrated  "Valley  of  the  Yo-hamite,"  which  is  pronounced  by  travelers  one 
of  the  greatest  of  curiosities.  It  is  a  vast  gorge  in  the  Sierra,  through  which 
flows  the  Merced,  a  beautiful  crystal  stream,  which  rises  high  up  in  the 
mountains. 

.  .  .  "  Picture  to  yourself  a  perpendicular  wall  of  bare  granite  nearly  or 
quite  a  mile  high  !  Yet  there  are  some  dozen  or  score  of  peaks  in  all,  ranging 
from  3,000  to  5,000  feet  above  the  valley,  and  a  biscuit  tossed  from  any  of  them 
would  strike  very  near  its  base,  and  its  fragments  go  bounding  and  falling  still 

further No  single  wonder  of  Nature  on  earth  can  claim  a  superiority 

over  the  Yo-hamite.  Just  dream  yourself  for  one  hour  in  a  chasm  nearly  ten 
ailes  long,  with  egress  for  birds  and  water  out  at  either  extremity,  and  none  else 
where  save  at  these  points,  up  the  face  of  precipices  from  3,000  to  4,000  feet  high, 
he  chasm  scarcely  more  than  a  mile  wide  at  any  point,  and  tapering  to  a  mere 
^orge  or  canon  at  either  end,  with  walls  of  mainly  naked  and  perpendicular  white 
granite,  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet  high,  so  that  looking  up  to  the  sky  from  it  is  like 
looking  out  of  an  unfathomable  profound — and  you  will  have  some  conception  of 
the  Yo-hamite." 

The  highest  known  cataract  on  the  globe  is  in  this  valley,  the  Yo-hamite  Fall, 
which  tumbles  over  a  perpendicular  ledge,  1,SOO  feet  at  one  plunge,  then  taking  a 
second  plunge  of  400,  ends  by  a  third  leap  of  600,  making  in  ail  2,800  feet,  or  over 
half  a  mile  in  descent.  The  stream  beinir  small  looks,  in  the  distance,  more  like 
a  white  ribbon  than  a  cascade.  The  Merced  enters  the  valley  by  more  imposing 
cataracts  of  nearly  1,000  feet  fall.  How  many  other  wonders  exist  in  this  strange 
locality  remains  for  farther  exploration  to  unfold.  "  The  valley  varies  from  a  quar 
ter  to  a  mile  in  width,  the  bottom  level  and  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
vegetation,  grass  interspersed  with  beautiful  flowers,  and  the  finest  of  pines  and 
evergreen  shrubs,  and  the  pure,  clear,  sparkling  Merced  River  winding  its  ways, 
'  at  its  own  sweet  will,'  through  the  midst.  With  its  two  points  of  egress  guarded, 
no  human  being,  once  placed  here  within  its  rocky  mountain  walls,  could  ever  hope 
to  escape." 

Beside  the  mountain  ranges,  with  their  summits  clad  with  everlasting 
snow,  and  the  beautiful  scenery  rendered  more  attractive  by  the  wonderful 
purity  of  the  atmosphere,  California  possesses  many  natural  curiosities, 
among  which  are  "The  Geysers,"  or  hot  sulphur  springs,  of  Napa  county, 
and  the  "natural  bridges,"  of  Calaveras. 

"The  Geysers  are  from  one  to  nine  feet  in  diameter,  and  constantly  in  a  boiling 
state,  ejecting  water  to  hights  of  10  to  15  feet.  Hundreds  of  fissures  in  the  side 
of  the  mountain  emit  strong  currents  of  heated  gas,  with  a  noise  resembling  that 
of  vapor  escaping  from  ocean  steamers.  We  condense  the  following  from  Hilli- 
man's  Journal,  of  Nov.,  1851,  by  Professor  Forest  Shepard  :  '  From  a  high  peak  we 
saw  on  the  W.  the  Pacific,  on  the  S.  Mount  Diablo  and  San  Francisco  Bay,  on  the 
F..  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  on  the  N.  opened  at  our  feet  an  immense  chasm,  from 
which,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  we  distinctly  saw  dense  columns  of 
steam  rising.  Descending,  we  discovered  within  half  a  mile  square  from  100  to 
200  openings,  whence  issued  dense  columns  of  vapor,  to  the  hight  of  from  150  to 
200  feet,  accompanied  by  a  roar  which  could  be  heard  for  a  mile  or  more.  Many 
acted  spasmodically,  throwing  up  jets  of  hot,  scalding  water  to  the  hiirht  of  20  or 
30  feet.  Beneath  your  footsteps  you  hear  the  lashing  and  foaming  gyrations;  anil 
on  cutting  through  the  surface,  are  disclosed  streams  of  angry,  boiling  witter.' 


678 


CALIFORNIA. 


Near  Vallecita,  on  Cayote  creek,  in  Calaveras  county,  is  a  striking  display  of 
volcanic  action,  in  the  shape  of  what  are  called  the  natural  bridges:  two  immense 
arches,  thrown  over  the  above-named  creek,  and  covered  with  imitations  of  clus 
ters  of  fruits  and  flowers,  doubtless  formed  when  the  mass  was  first  upheaved  in 
a  molten  state.  In  the  same  vicinity  is  'Cayote  Cave,'  a  deep,  semicircular  chasm, 
entered  by  a  perpendicular  descent  of  100  feet,  aud  thsn  proceeding  by  a  gradual 
slope  till  it  reaches  a  depth  of  nearly  200  feet  below  the  surface,  where  you  come 
to  a  chamber  called  "The  Cathedral,"  from  its  containing  two  stones  resembling 
1'plls,  which,  when  struck,  produce  a  chiming  sound.  Proceeding  100  feet  farther, 
always  on  the  descent,  a  lake  is  reached  of  great  depth,  and  apparently  covering 
many  acres;  but  the  exploration  has  not  yet  been  carried  beyond  this  point.  The 
roof  of  the  cave  is  studded  with  stalactites,  assuming  various  fantastic  forms." 

Rimecia  is  30  miles  from  San  Francisco,  on  the  Straits  of  Carquinez. 
Vessels  of  the  largest  class  can  reach  this  point,  and  here  the  steamers  of 
the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Line  are  refitted.  Vallejo  is  a  few  miles  nearer 
San  Francisco,  on  the  north  side  of  the  same  straits.  Benecia,  Vallejo  and 
San  Jose  have  been  by  turns  the  seat  of  government  of  California.  San 
Jose  is  at  the  head  of  the  San  Francisco  Bay,  some  50  miles  from  San  Fran 
cisco.  It  is  at  the  entrance  of  a  most  beautiful  and  fertile  valley,  and  was 
long  the  headquarters  of  the  native  Californians.  many  of  whom  owned  im 
mense  estates  and  herds  of  wild  cattle.  The  celebrated  New  Almaden  quick 
silver  mine  is  12  miles  south  of  the  town. 

On  the  Pacific  coast,south  of  San  Francisco,  the  first  important  place  is 
Monterey,  90  miles  distant.  It  was,  under  Mexican  rule,  the  principal  com 
mercial  point  in,  and  capital  of  California.  Next  in  order  on  the  coast  are 
Santa  Barbara,  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego,  the  latter  490  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  the  southernmost  port  in  the  state,  and  the  termination  of  the 
branch  from  Texas  of  the  overland  mail  route.  In  the  rear  of  Los  An 
geles,  at  the  distance  of  80  miles  inland,  the  snow-capped  peak  of  Mount 
St.  Bernardino  is  seen.  It  marks  the  site  of  the  beautiful  valley  in  which 
is  the  Mormon  settlement  of  Bernardino. 

On  the  Pacific  coast,  north  of  San  Francisco,  the  points  of  interest  are 
/fitmholdt  City,  Trinidad,  Klamath,  and  Crescent  City.  The  latter  is  the 
sea-port  of  the  south  part  of  Oregon,  being  distant  only  a  few  miles  from 
the  southern  boundary  line  of  that  state. 

Fort  Yuma  is  at  the  south-eastern  angle  of  the  state,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Colorado  and  Gila  Rivers.  It  was  built  about  the  year  1851,  by  Major 
8.  P.  Heintzelman,  U.S.A. 


M$i&y$ 


NEVADA. 

NEVADA  was  formed  into  a  territory  in  February,  1861,  and  was 
taken  from  Western  Utah.  It  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State 
in  October,  1864.  Estimated  area  eighty  thousand  square  miles.  The 
eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  inclusive  of  the  famous 
Carson  Yalley,  is  within  it.  Originally  it  was  called  Washoe,  from 
Mt.  Washoe,  a  peak  over  nine  thousand  feet  high,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Virginia  City. 

Lying  along  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  the 
country  has  a  very  diiferent  climate  from  that  of  California.  "  The 
gigantic  wall  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  on  the  California  side,  receives  the 
hot  winds  that  blow  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  fall  there  in  rain 
and  snow,  leaving  the  opposite  or  eastern  declivity  exposed  to  droughts 
and  freezing  blasts.  Consequently  you  may  find,  at  the  same  time, 
in  the  same  latitude,  and  at  the  same  bight,  mildness  of  climate,  fer 
tility,  vegetable  riches,  in  fact,  summer  rejoicing  on  one  side,  while 
sterrility,  cold  and  winter  exist,  with  more  or  less  intensity,  on  the 
opposite  slope  of  these  mountains,  whose  sublime  beauty  is  perhaps 
unequaled  throughout  the  world." 

With  the  exception  of  Carson  valley  and  a  few  small  valleys,  the  whole  country 
for  hundreds  of  miles,  north,  south  and  east,  is,  like  most  mineral  regions,  a  bar 
ren  desert,  and  of  no  value  but  for  its  minerals.  There  is  a  great  scarcity  of 
wood  and  water.  Aside  from  the  timber  on  the  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range, 
the  only  wood  of  the  country  is  a  species  of  scrub  pine,  fit  only  for  fuel  and  to 
feed  the  Pi-Ute  Indians,  for  it  bears  very  nutritious  nuts,  which  constitutes  their 
principal  staple  article  of  food.  This  nut  pine  makes  excellent  fuel  for  steam 
works,  being  exceedingly  hard  and  full  of  pitch.  The  whole  face  of  the  country 
is  mostly  covered  with  sage  brush,  like  garden  sage.  Greasewood,  another  shrub, 
is  also  common. 

Carson  Yalley  was  pronounced  by  Mr.  Greeley,  who  was  here  in 
1859,  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  he  had  ever  seen.  He  said: 

This  valley,  originally  a  grand  meadow,  the  home  of  the  deer  and  the  antelope, 
is  nearly  inclosed  by  high  mountains,  down  which,  especially  from  the  north  and 
west,  come  innumerable  rivulets,  leaping  and  dancing  on  their  way  to  join  the 
Carnon.  Easily  arrested  and  controlled,  because  of  the  extreme  shallowness  of 
their  beds,  these  streams  have  been  made  to  irrigate  a  large  portion  of  the  upper 
valley,  producing  an  abundance  of  the  sweetest  grass,  and  insuring  bounteous 
harvests  also  of  vegetables,  barley,  oats,  etc.  Wheat  seems  to  do  fairly  here ;  corn 


680 


NEVADA. 


not  so  well;  in  fact,  the  nights  are  too  cold  for  it  if  the  water  were  not.  For  this 
spring  water,  leaping  suddenly  down  from  its  mountain  sources,  is  too  cold,  too 
pure,  to  be  well  adapted  to  irrigation ;  could  it  be  held  back  even  a  week,  and  ex 
posed  in  shallow  ponds  or  basins  to  the  hot  sunshine,  it  would  be  vastly  more  use 
ful.  When  the  whole  river  shall  have  been  made  available,  twenty  to  forty  miles 
below,  it  will  prove  far  more  nutritious  and  fertilizing. 

If  the  new  gold  mines  in  this  valley  shall  ultimately  justify  their  present  prom 
ise,  a  very  large  demand  for  vegetable  food  will  speedily  spring  up,  here,  which 
can  only  be  satisfied  by  domestic  production.  The  vast  deserts  eastward  can  not 
meet  it,  the  arable  region  about  Salt  Lake  is  at  once  too  restricted  and  too  distant; 
inland  California  is  a  dear  country,  and  the  transportation  of  bulky  staples  over 
the  Sierra  a  costly  operation.  The  time  will  ultimately  come — it  may  or  may  not 
be  in  our  day — when  two  or  three  great  dams  over  the  Carson  will  render  the 
irrigation  of  these  broad,  arid  plains  on  its  banks  perfectly  feasible;  and  then 
this  will  be  one  of  the  most  productive  regions  on  earth.  The  vegetable  food  of 
one  million  people  can  easily  be  grown  here,  while  their  cattle  may  be  reared  and 
fed  in  the  mountain  vales  north  and  south  of  this  valley.  And  when  the  best 
works  shall  have  been  constructed,  and  all  the  lights  of  science  and  experience 
brought  to  bear  on  the  subject,  it  will  be  found  that  nearly  everything  that  con 
tributes  to  human  or  brute  sustenance  can  be  grown  actually  cheaper  by  the  aid 
of  irrigation  than  without  it.  As  yet  we  know  little  or  nothing  of  the  application 
of  water  to  land  and  crops,  andjour  ignorance  causes  deplorable  waste  and  blun 
dering.  Every  year  henceforth  "will  make  us  wiser  on  this  head. 

Previous  to  the  discovery  of  the  Washoe  silver  mines,  in  the  sum 
mer  of  1859,  there  were  not  one  thousand  white  inhabitants  in  all  of 
Nevada.  Virginia  City  at  once  sprung  up  at  that  point,  which  is 
about  two  hundred  miles  easterly,  in  an  air  line  from  San  Francisco. 
The  circumstances,  as  told  of  its  discovery,  are  somewhat  romantic : 

''The  Washoe  silver  mines  wTere  first  discovered  by  Mr.  Patrick  McLaughlin, 
an  '  honest  miner,'  who  was  working  for  gold  in  a  gulch  or  ravine,  and  where  he 
was  making  $100  a  day  to  the  hand.  As  he  and  his  companions  followed  up  the 
gulch,  it  paid  even  better,  until,  on  arriving  at  a  certain  point,  it  gave  out  alto 
gether,  and  they  struck  a  vein  of  pure  sulphuret  of  silver,  which  they  at  first  sup 
posed  to  be  coal,  but  observing  that  it  was  very  heavy,  they  concluded  it  must  be 
valuable,  and  sent  one  of  their  number  to  San  Francisco  with  some  of  the  black 
ore  to  ascertain  its  value.  It  was  given  to  a  Mr.  Killaley,  an  old  Mexican  miner, 
to  assay.  Killaley  took  the  ore  home  and  assayed  it.  The  result  was  so  astound 
ing  that  the  old  man  got  terribly  excited.  The  next  morning  poor  Killaley  was 
found  dead  in  his  bed.  He  had  long  been  in  bad  health,  and  the  excitement 
killed  him. 

Immediate  search  was  made  for  the  original  deposit,  which  resulted  in  the 
since  famous  Comstock  lode.  Where  first  found,  this  lode  has  no  outcropping  or 
other  indication  to  denote  its  presence.  The  first  assay  of  the  rock  taken  from 
the  lode  when  first  struck  gave  a  return  of  $265  of  gold  and  silver,  there  being  a 
larger  proportion  of  gold  than  silver.  Subsequent  assays  of  ore  taken  from  the 
vein,  as  it  was  sunk  upon,  showed  a  rapid  increase  in  richness,  until  the  enormous 
return  was  made  of  $7,000  to  the  tun— $4,000  in  gold  and  $3,000  in  silver.  Still 
later  assays  of  choice  pieces  of  ore  have  given  a  return  of  $15,000  to  the  tun."  In 
this  case  these  ounce  assays  did  not  mislead,  but  a  vast  difference  is  to  be  observed 
between  rich  ore  and  a  rich  mine.  A  poor  mine  often  yields  specimens  of  rich 
ore,  which,  through  the  ounce  assay,  serves  but  to  delude.  The  "true  test  of  the 
value  of  a  silver  mine  is  the  quantity  of  the  ore,  and  the  average  yield  of  the  ore 
in  bulk  after  the  establishment  of  reduction  works. 

The  changes  that  grew  from  this  discovery  almost  vied  in  the  won 
derful  with  the  transformations  of  Aladdin  and  his  lamp.  The  next 
year  Virginia  City  contained  over  one  thousand  houses,  of  brick,  stone 
and  cloth,  and  a  population  of  four  thousand.  In  1864,  Virginia  City, 


NEVADA.  681 

next  to  San  Francisco,  had  become  the  largest  and  most  important 
city  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  Nevada  was  a  State  of  the  American 
Union,  with  an  estimated  population  of  sixty  thousand.  Her  esti 
mated  mineral  production  that  year  was  $30,000,000.  Her  patriotism 
was  illustrated  by  her  sending  to  the  Sanitary  Commission  silver  bricks 
to  the  value  of  $51,500.  This  she  could  afford,  for  a  single  one  of 
her  silver  mines,  the  Gould  &  Curry,  upon  the  Comstock  lode,  in  1864 
produced  $5,000,000  in  silver,  and  netted  her  stockholders  the  enor 
mous  amount  of  one  million  and  four  hundred  and  forty  thousand 
dollars!  A  citizen,  at  the  beginning  of  1865,  gives  this  glowing 
description  of  his  town,  which  then  contained  a  population  of  twen 
ty-five  thousand,  American,  Mexican,  European  and  Chinamen: 

Virginia  City  is  situated  on  the  eastern  slope  of  Mount  Davidson, 
the  site  being  a  sort  of  shelving  tract  of  table-land,  is  six  thousand  two 
hundred  and  five  feet  above  the  level  of  sea,  being  among  the  highest 
cities  on  the  globe.  When  a  stranger  arrives  in  Virginia  City,  and 
observes  a  city  containing  a  population  of  twenty-five  thousand  peo 
ple  of  both  sexes,  long  blocks  and  squares  of  brick  and  granite  struc 
tures  with  whole  ranges  of  frame  buildings,  and  ascertains  further 
that  immense  sums  are  daily  being  paid  for  real  estate,  he  naturally 
wonders  whether  growth  in  this  ratio  is  likely  to  continue,  and  if  so, 
whether  the  mines  of  Nevada  will  be  sufficient  ultimately  to  pay  for 
it  all.  But  if  he  steps  into  the  leading  banking  houses  in  the  city, 
and  takes  a  view  of  the  silver  "bricks"  generally  to  be  seen  there,  he 
begins  to  imagine  there  is  something  tangible  in  Washoe  after  all. 
And  if  he  will  next  ascertain  how  many  quartz-mills  are  running  in 
the  vicinity  of  Virginia  City,  Gold  Hill  and  Silver  City,  and  how 
much  bullion  each  returns  on  an  average  weekly,  he  will  unquestion 
ably  be  led  to  the  conclusion — which  others  have  come  to  before  him — 
that  the  rapid  growth  of  Virginia  City  is  only  the  outward  evidence 
of  a  profitable  development  of  the  mines. 

The  streets  are  Macadamized,  well  lit  with  gas,  water  introduced 
through  pipes,  and  it  boasts  of  three  theaters,  devoted  to  dramatic  en 
tertainments,  an  opera-house,  which  seats  in  its  auditorium  some  two 
thousand  people,  and  where  Italian  and  other  operas  of  the  best  com 
posers  are  produced  by  artists  equal  to  any  which  appear  before  the 
audiences  of  much  older  communities.  The  large  amount  of  wealth 
which  the  earth  so  bountifully  produces  enables  the  population  of  the 
State  to  provide  themselves  with  every  comfort  and  luxury  of  civilized 
life.  Stores  of  every  character,  well  supplied  with  merchandise  of  all 
descriptions,  hotels,  and  fine  market-houses,  filled  with  an  abundance 
of  game,  meats  and  vegetables,  attract  the  eye  on  every  side.  The 
churches  of  various  denominations,  and  school-houses,  attended  daily 
by  nearly  a  thousand  children,  will  compare  favorably  with  those  in 
the  Atlantic  States.  An  excellent  volunteer  fire  department,  police 
force,  and  the  working  of  a  good  municipal  government,  are  no  less 
attractive  features  of  the  new  city  which  has  so  suddenly  sprung  into 
existence  within  the  short  space  of  five  years.  The  country  around 
is  cut  up  with  mines,  mills,  farms  and  gardens,  while  in  every  section 
the  topography  is  dotted  with  smiling  villages,  and  even  palatial 
private  residences  give  unmistakable  indications  of  the  thrift  and 
wonderful  enterprise  of  its  hardy  and  industrious  population.  There 


NEVADA. 

has  been  no  difficulty  as  yet  experienced  in  obtaining  labor  for  mining 
operations.  The  supply  is  fully  equal  to  the  demand  at  any  and  all 
times.  Good  mining  hands  receive  usually  four  dollars  per  diem, 
while  the  tariff  of  prices  for  ordinary  laboring  men  is  fixed  at  from 
three  to  three  and  a  half  dollars  per  day,  payable  in  gold;  amalga 
mators  and  engineers  of  mills  receive  from  five  to  eight  dollars. 
Wood  for  milling  and  hoisting  purposes  is  worth  twelve  dollars,  in 
summer,  a  cord,  and  fifteen  in  winter.  Lumber  for  "timbering"  and 
"shoring"  up  mines,  and  building  purposes,  may  be  obtained  at  from 
forty  to  fifty  dollars  per  thousand  feet,  in  any  quantity  that  may  be 
desired  for  all  practical  purposes.  Fresh  meats  of  the  best  quality 
can  be  had  from  twelve  to  eighteen  cents  a  pound ;  butter,  milk,  eggs, 
cheese  and  fruits  and  vegetables  of  all  kinds  raised  in  the  State,  are 
as  reasonable  in  price  as  the  same  may  be  procured  in  the  city  of 
New  York  on  a  specie-paying  basis. 

The  elevation  of  Virginia  City,  on  the  east  slope  of  Mount  David 
son,  is  about  six  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  There  are 
no  extremes  of  heat  or  cold  experienced  at  any  season  of  the  year ; 
but  for  the  reason  that  the  air  at  this  elevation  becomes  rarefied, 
many  people  at  first  find  some  difficulty  in  breathing  as  freely  as  they 
could  in  a  lower  atmosphere.  Persons  afflicted  with  asthmatic  and 
lung  complaints  find  great  relief  in  inhaling  the  rarefied  air  of  Mount 
Davidson.  In  the  valleys,  however,  where  the  temperature  of  the 
atmosphere  is  more  moderate,  the  objections  raised  by  some  to  the 
former  locality  for  a  place  of  residence  is  entirely  overcome.  The 
best  test  of  the  general  healthiness  of  the  climate  is  to  be  found  in  the 
fact  that  there  are  few  deaths  in  proportion  to  the  population,  and 
that  the  climate  does  not  impair  the  energy  of  settlers,  is  proved  by 
the  enterprise  and  activity  which  in  Yirginia  City  is  evident  on  all 
sides,  and  in  the  rosy,  blooming  complexions  of  the  people  we  meet 
on  every  hand. 

A  late  visitor  in  Nevada  gives  us  a  picture  of  the  appearance  of 
things  in  Virginia  City  and  the  adjacent  silver-producing  towns 
which  he  approached  from  California,  passing  through  Carson  City : 

Carson  City,  in  1858,  was  a  place  where  the  emigrant  from  the  Eastern  States, 
on  the  road  to  California,  stopped  to  recruit  himself  and  cattle  for  a  start  over  the 
Sierra  Nevada.  Carson  City  of  1864  is  quite  a  large  and  important  place.  It  has 
a  large  trade  with  all  parts  of  the  State,  has  the  finest  site  for  a  town  in  the 
whole  territory,  and  is  at  present  the  capital.  A  large  quary  of  stone  having 
been  discovered  by  Abraham  Curry,  the  place  now  boasts  of  splendid  stores, 
court-houses  and  dwellings,  built  of  this  stone;  fine  hotels,  family  mansions, 
beautiful  cottages,  and,  indeed,  a  place  for  Nevada  to  be  proud  of.  It  stands  four 
thousand  six  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  has  a  fine  cli 
mate,  and  the  best  water  of  any  place  in  Nevada. 

Let  us  jog  on  toward  Virginia  City,  seventeen  miles  distant.  We  first  reach 
Curry's  warm  spring,  two  miles  east  from  the  town.  This  is  a  great  resort  (or 
drinking  the  water  and  bathing;  it  possesses  great  medicinal  qualities.  Here  is 
the  great  territorial  prison,  an  immense  stone  edifice.  Jt  was  built  for  strength, 
although  only  for  Curry's  own  house.  The  prisoners  work  in  the  quary,  which 
is  in  the  yard  adjoining.  A  railroad  connects  the  prison  with  Carson  City,  for 
the  conveyance  of  the  stone. 

We  now  start  for  Empire  City  (or  Dutch  Nicks),  called  after  an  old  settler  in 
1860.  It  originally  contained  but  two  houses;  now  fine  mills  are  erected  for  saw 
ing  lumber  and  crushing  quartz — the  Mexican  mill,  a  most  extensive  affair,  grind- 


NEVADA. 

ing  the  rock  from  their  claim  in  Virginia  City.  Here  you  hear,  for  the  first  time 
in  the  Territory,  the  ponderous  stamps  going  day  and  night.  Teams  are  going 
continually  to  the  mine  for  rock  to  be  crushed  and  the  precious  metals  extracted. 
The  Winters,  Aitchenson  and  Mead  mills,  and  others,  are  here,  and  it  is  now  quite 
a  place  of  importance ;  it  is  situated  on  Carson  river,  north-east  from  Curry's.  In 
a  northerly  direction,  you  pass  over  a  fine  road,  to  the  half-way  house  toward 
Silver  City,  through  Spring  Valley,  and  begin  to  ascend  what  is  called  the  back 
bone  of  the  range,  on  which  the  Comstock  lode  is  found.  A  fine  road  has  been 
finished  all  the  way.  You  pass  by  the  Daney  Company's  lode,  and  continue 
along  till  you  come  to  the  Canon,  on  which  road  we  will  pass  the  mills  at  work — 
Gold  Canon  being  the  one  that  drains  Silver  City,  American  Flat  and  Gold  Hill. 
The  Canon  is  full  of  mills,  crushing  the  quartz  from  all  the  above  places.  The 

§reat  want  here  is  water;  but  that  is  being  supplied  in  greater  abundance,  as  the 
old  Hill  and  Virginia  Tunnel  Company  drain  the  mines.  On  it  is  located  Silver 
City,  about  half  way  between  Virginia  City  and  Dayton,  on  the  Carson  river. 
Silver  City  is  almost  entirely  dependent  on  the  surrounding  country  for  her  sup 
port.  Some  of  the  finest  mills  in  the  country  lie  within  her  limits.  Having  a 
great  abundance  of  granite  and  other  building  material,  fine  blocks  of  buildings 
have  been  erected,  fire-proof,  and  very  substantial;  the  private  residences  are 
tasty,  and  many  are  adorned  by  both  fruit  and  shade  trees.  All  along  the  Canon, 
to  Devil's  Gate,  are  mills  at  work  on  quartz  from  the  various  districts  around. 
French's  mill,  situate  in  American  Ravine,  in  Silver  City,  was  built  in  1860 — size 
of  building,  ninety  by  seventy-five  feet.  It  has  twenty  stamps  and  sixteen  pans, 
with  an  engine  of  sixty-horse  power,  and  reduces  twenty  to  thirty  tuns  of  rock 
per  day.  There  are  a  great  many  mills  in  this  vicinity  doing  well,  and  a  hundred 
others  could  have  plenty  of  employment.  To  a  person  who  never  saw  a  quartz 
mill  at  work,  he  can  have  no  idea  of  the  noise  and  clatter  it  makes ;  the  deafen 
ing  sound,  compelling  great  exertion  to  be  heard ;  and  I  assure  you  a  person 
needs  all  his  breath  here,  for  the  rarefied  air  makes  breathing  pretty  difficult. 

Well,  save  your  breath,  and  let  us  walk  on  to  American  City — American  Flat — 
a  flourishing  place,  only  a  few  months  old,  boasting  of  churches  and  hotels. 
Residences  have  been  erected  as  if  by  magic.  Among  the  hills,  west  of  Ameri 
can  Flat,  there  is  a  beautiful  cave  of  alabaster,  from  the  roof  of  which,  when 
first  discovered,  hung  long  pendent  stalactites  of  snowy  whiteness  and  rare  beauty, 
which  visitors  have,  from  time  to  time  carried  away.  The  alabaster  in  this  cave 
is  so  soft  that  it  can  be  cut  with  a  pen-knife. 

A  short  time  ago  it  was  predicted  that  the  improvements  would  be  such  in  this 
region,  that  there  would  be  a  street  lined  with  buildings  for  a  distance  of  nearly 
eight  miles.  There  is  now  no  complete  or  dividing  space  between  Virginia  and 
Gold  Hill,  American  and  Silver  City  ;  and  the  rapidity  with  which  the  intervening 
spaces  have  been  built  up  is  truly  astonishing.  These  facts  are  remarkably  strong 
in  support  of  the  opinion  that  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  the  main  street  of 
Virginia  City  will  present  a  continuous  double  row  of  buildings  from  the  north 
end  of  the  city  to  Dayton.  The  next  place  we  reach  is  Gold  Hill  in  the  Canon. 

Gold  Hill  is  emphatically  a  mining  town.  The  ground  underneath  Virginia 
City  is  honey-combed  by  tunnels,  drifts  and  excavations,  which  extend  in  every 
direction.  But  still  there  is  little  to  be  seen  above  the  surface  to  give  a  stranger 
any  idea  of  what  is  going  on  below.  The  streets  and  houses  present  the  same 
appearance  as  the  streets  and  houses  of  any  other  city,  and  it  is  only  in  a  few 
localities  in  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  as  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Ophir  or  Mexican 
lodes,  that  evidences  of  mining,  carried  on  to  any  great  extent,  are  to  be  seen. 

But  Gold  Hill  presents  a  far  different  aspect.  All  along  the  east  side  of  the 
town  huge  piles  of  dirt,  debris  and  pulverized  quartz  are  visible,  which  have  been 
raised  out  of  the  mines  and  left  upon  the  ground,  while  the  more  valuable  rock 
has  been  taken  to  the  mill  for  crushing.  In  the  hoisting-houses  erected  over  the 
shafts,  machinery  is  in  constant  operation  night  and  day,  the  screaming  of  steam 
whistles  is  heard,  and  successive  car-loads  of  ore  are  run  over  railroads  upon 
trestle-work,  and  sent  down  long,  narrow  shutes  into  wagons  below,  with  a  noise 
perfectly  deafening.  Leaving  there,  and  passing  through  the  town,  the  ears  of 
the  visitor  are  everywhere  assailed  by  the  thunder  of  stamps  crushing  in  tho 


684 


NEVADA. 


mills,  and  the  clatter  of  machinery,  until  one  would  fain  believe  himself  in  a 
large  manufacturing  village  in  the  New  England  States.  The  quartz  teams  you 
see  in  Virginia  City  have  tripled  in  number,  and  in  places  the  streets  are  jammed 
with  them,  carrying  loads  of  rich  ore  to  the  mills  at  Devil's  Gate,  Silver  City  and 
Carson  River.  As  night  draws  on,  and  a  shift  of  hands  takes  place,  the  work 
men,  who,  for  a  number  of  hours,  have  been  many  hundred  feet  under  ground, 
timbering  up  drifts,  or  tearing  down  masses  of  glittering  quartz,  which  compose 
the  ledge,  appear,  and  their  conversation  is  utterly  unintelligible  to  a  stranger  un 
acquainted  with  the  locality  and  condition  of  the  different  claims.  Remarks  con 
cerning  the  Sandy  Bowers,  the  Pluto,  Uncle  Sam,  or  Bullion,  are  Chinese  to  him  ; 
and  he  learns  their  position  and  character  as  he  would  acquire  a  knowledge  of 
the  streets  and  buildings  of  a  strange  city.  If  Gold  Hill  presents  a  singular 
aspect  in  the  day-time,  its  appearance  from  the  Divide  at  midnight  is  absolutely 
startling.  Work  at  the  mines,  in  the  hoisting-houses  and  quartz-mills,  is  carried 
on  without  intermission  or  cessation;  and  the  flashing  of  lights,  the  noise  of 
steam  engines  and  machinery,  contrasted  with  the  silence  and  gloom  of  the  sur 
rounding  mountains,  make  up  a  strange  and  almost  unearthly  picture,  and  puts 
him  in  mind  of  what  he  has  read  of  the  residence  of  the  "  Gentleman  in  Black." 

The  mines  in  Gold  Hill  proper  are  said  to  be  very  rich.  We  visited  some  of 
them,  and  were  surprised  at  the  extent  of  the  work  done.  Everything  here  looks 
as  if  fortunes  had  been  spent,  but  the  rich  returns  have  warranted  the  outlay. 
Here  we  found  banking  houses,  refiners,  assayers,  and  every  business  connected 
with  mining;  every  one  attending  to  his  own  business.  We  will  now  go  up  the 
Divide,  between  Gold  Hill  and  Virginia  City. 

Virginia  City,  as  you  see  it,  coming  over  the  Divide,  has  a  strange  look,  and 
you  are  quite  startled  at  the  view  before  you.  You  are  at  once  astonished  at  the 
size  and  importance  of  the  City  of  the  Hills,  a  place  but  of  yesterday;  now  sec 
ond  only  to  San  Francisco  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

Virginia  City  only  differs  from  the  towns  you  have  passed  through,  because  it 
is  so  much  larger.  It  is  built  at  the  foot,  or  rather  on  the  side,  of  Mount  David 
son.  All  the  principal  mines  are  inside  the  city  limits.  The  Gould  £  Curry 
tunnel  is  in  the  very  center  of  the  city  (see  Evans'  Map  of  Virginia  City  Mines), 
although  its  mill  is  two  miles  away.  The  city,  which  lies  on  the  side  of  Mount 
Davidson,  is  one  mass  of  excavations  and  tunnels.  There  is  a  bluish  earth, 
which  is  obtained  from  the  mines,  and  this  is  dumped  at  the  mouth  of  the  tun 
nels,  so  that  the  city,  at  a  distance,  seems  speckled  with  these  blue  _ spots.  The 
city  boasts  of  fine  buildings,  stores  filled  with  every  luxury — everything  that  can 
be  "procured  for  money.  Day  and  night  the  mills  are  crushing  the  ore,  making  a 
deafening  noise.  The  silver  bricks  are  carted  around,  as  the  people  of  the  East 
do  ordinary  bricks,  literally  speaking. 

The  Comstock  Eange,  in  which  the  fine  veins  above  described  are 
situated,  is  the  most  noted  of  the  silver  regions  of  Nevada,  from  hav 
ing  been  the  earliest  discovered  and  developed.  But  Nevada  has 
other  districts  equally  rich,  and  every  day  adds  to  our  knowledge  of 
the  gigantic  wealth  hidden  in  the  mineral  regions  of  the  Pacific  slope. 
Beside  gold  and  silver,  coal,  quicksilver,  iron,  copper,  lead,  antimony 
and  every  known  mineral  abound.  Wealth  enough  exists  to  sponge 
out  our  huge  national  debt  scores  of  times.  The  policy  of  the  Gov 
ernment  in  the  past,  in  withholding  from  the  people  titles  in  fee  sim 
ple  to  her  gold  and  silver  bearing  districts,  has  been  a  great  incubus 
upon  their  development.  When  this  policy  is  reversed,  and  the  enter 
prising  emigrant  can  locate  his  discovery  with  the  same  assurance  of 
ownership  as  the  pioneer  on  a  prairie  farm  of  the  Mississippi  valley, 
the  development  of  the  Pacific  country  will  be  rapid  beyond  all  calcu 
lation.  In  relation  to  silver  mining,  however,  it  can  only  be  carried 
on  by  companies,  the  original  outlay  for  the  reduction  of  ore,  in 


NEVADA. 


685 


buildings  and  machinery,  surpassing  ordinary  individual  wealth.  The 
adage  is  here  in  full  force,  that  "it  takes  a  mine  to  work  a  mine." 
A  late  writer  gives  these  facts  in  regard  to  silver  veins : 

Silver  is  generally  found  in  veins,  and  hence  the  deposits  are  far  more  likely  to 
be  inexhaustible  than  placer  gold.  The  statistics  of  silver  mining,  in  different 
countries,  clearly  establish  this  fact.  For  centuries  this  business  has  been  the 
cardinal  interest  of  Mexico;  silver  the  circulating  medium  or  currency  of  the 
country;  and — in  coin  and  bars — a  chief  article  of  export.  Since  the  conquest 
of  Cortez,  the  mining  interest  has  been  so  successfully  prosecuted  that  the  most 
trustworthy  statistics  nearly  startle  us  with  suggestions  of  almost  fabulous  for 
tunes  realized,  and  with  vague  conceptions  of  the  vast  mineral  wealth  of  that 
country.  According  to  Humboldt,  the  total  amount  of  silver  obtained  from  the 
conquest  to  the  time  he  wrote  (1803),  was  $2,027,952,000.  Other  authorities  rep 
resent  the  sum  as  much  larger,  and  amounting  to  no  less  than  $12,000,000,000. 
And  yet  the  whole  period,  since  the  conquest  of  1521 — nearly  three  hundred  and 
fifty  years — has  developed  no  sign  of  the  possible  failure  of  the  silver  mines  of 
Mexico.  On  the  contrary,  they  were  never  richer  than  they  are  to-day.  The 
annual  coinage  of  the  mints  of  Mexico,  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
was  not  less  than  $27,000,000.  Our  statistics  for  some  years  past  have  been  less 
complete  and  trustworthy.  When  a  vein  of  silver  is  found,  it  may  generally  be 
traced  a  long  distance.  The  Vela  Madre,  said  to  be  the  richest  vein  in  Mexico, 
has  been  opened  at  different  points  along  the  strata  a  distance  of  twelve  miles, 
and  in  many  places  it  is  not  less  than  200  feet  wide.  One  vein  in  Chili  has  been 
followed  nearly  one  hundred  miles,  while  several  of  the  branches  radiating  from 
it  are  thirty  miles  long.  When  a  silver  vein  is  sometimes  broken  abruptly,  as  in 
the  mines  of  Chili,  it  is  quite  sure  to  be  found  again,  if  the  miner  patiently  pur 
sues  the  same  general  direction.  In  one  instance,  at  the  mines  of  Chanarcillo, 
the  vein  was  found  to  be  thus  interrupted  by  a  belt  of  limestone ;  but  by  sinking 
a  shaft  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  through  the  stone,  the  vein  was  struck 
again.  Not  less  than  seven  of  these  belts  have  been  found  to  interrupt  the  same 
mineral  vein,  at  different  points,  and  yet  the  miners  have  failed  of  reaching  its 
final  termination.  The  fact  that  silver  is  generally  thus  deposited  while  gold  is 
not,  must  suggest  to  the  most  thoughtless  observer,  that  of  the  two,  silver  mines 
are  far  more  likely  to  be  permanently  profitable. 

We  now  abridge  from  a  published  account  a  description  of  some  of 
the  other  prominent  mining  districts  of  Nevada,  as  they  were  early 
in  1865: 

The  Esmeralda  District  is  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  south-east  of  Virginia 
City.  Many  good  mines  are  in  the  district,  and  ten  mills  in,  operation  for  the  re 
duction  of  the  ores.  A  large  amount  of  silver  bullion  is  weekly  shipped  from 
Aurora,  the  principal  town,  which  has  four  thousand  people,  and  two  daily 
papers. 

The  Reese  River  District  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  east  of  Virginia 
City,  on  the  overland  stage  route.  Austin,  the  principal  town,  has  five  thousand 
inhabitants.  Nine  mills  are  in  operation,  and  a  daily  newspaper  published.  The 
mines  of  this  region  extend  as  far  south  as  prospecters  have  ever  ventured  to 
explore — some  two  hundred  miles.  Some  veins,  very  rich  on  the  surface,  have 
been  found  outside  of  the  settlements  in  various  directions,  but  as  yet  they  have 
not  been  improved,  the  owners  being  poor  men,  and  the  country  being  too  wild 
for  capitalists,  to  venture  into,  while  perhaps  equally  good  opportunities  for  in 
vestment  are  to  be  found  in  more  civilized  localities.  These  ores  are  mostly 
chlorids,  rodids  and  bromids,  while  in  the  Comstock  veins  the  principal  are  the 
black  and  grey  sulphurets. 

The  Humboldt  District  is  situated  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  north-east 
of  Virginia  City,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Humboldt  river,  and  near  the  Old  Emi 
grant  road,  down  that  river.  The  mines  were  first  discovered  in  1860,  but  did 
not  attract  much  attention  until  a  year  or  two  afterward.  There  are  four  or  five 


686  NEVADA. 

large  towns  in  this  region,  and  one  or  two  mills  in  operation.  Wood  is  very 
scarce,  and  for  this  reason  few  steam  mills  have  been  erected.  A  e.inal,  sixty-five 
miles  in  length,  and  capable  of  carrying  water  sufficient  to  run  forty  or  fifty  water 
mills,  is  now  nearly  half  completed.  As  soon  as  this  great  work  is  finished,  a 
number  of  large  mills  will  at  once  be  erected.  The  principal  mine  in  this  region 
is  the  Sheba,  which  yields  large  quantities  of  very  rich  ore,  much  of  which  is 
sent  to  England  for  reduction.  This  is  the  oldest  and  best  developed  claim  in 
that  region,  but  there  are  doubtless  hundreds  equally  as  good,  were  they  as  thor 
oughly  opened.  An  excellent  weekly  paper  is  published  here,  at  Unionville,  and 
there  are  some  very  heavy  tunneling  enterprises  undertaken  for  the  development 
of  the  veins  found  in  certain  mountains.  The  ores  of  this  district  are  different 
from  those  of  either  Esmeralda  or  Reese  river,  being  argentiferous,  galena  and 
antimonial  ores.  Some  of  the  leads  of  this  region  are  very  rich  in  gold,  but  in 
this  they  are  not  peculiar,  as  more  or  less  gold  is  found  in  every  mining  district, 
and  in  nearly  all  paying  veins.  It  has  been  said  that  the  Humboldt  mountains 
alone  doubtless  contain  precious  metals  sufficient  to  purchase  the  fee  simple  of 
all  the  rebel  States,  with  the  Union  and  rebel  government  debt  both  thrown  in. 

In  this  direction  are  several  new  mining  districts.  The  most  promising  of 
these  are  Pine  Wood,  Mountain  Wells  and  Clan  Alpine.  Judging  from  assays 
obtained  from  rock  taken  from  the  croppings  of  some  of  these  veins,  there  is  no 
doubt  but  they  will  prove  immensely  valuable.  The  district  is  situated  between 
Humboldt  and  the  Reese  river  mines,  is  well  watered,  and  the  hills  are  clothed 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  nut  pine.  Clan  Alpine  is  quite  a  new  district,  there  be 
ing  but  a  dozen  or  two  of  miners  there,  but  it  contains  some  most  promising 
veins.  The  district  is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  east  of  Virginia  City. 
Mountain  Wells  district,  some  eighty  miles  east  of  Virginia  City,  is  another 
promising,  though  but  little  developed,  mining  region.  Some  excellent  veins  have 
been  opened,  and  quite  a  village  is  springing  up  in  the  mines.  As  yet  they  have 
no  mills.  There  is  plenty  of  wood  and  water  in  the  district.  It  is  situated  on 
the  overland  mail  route. 

No  region  in  the  world  can  surpass  Nevada  in  the  abundance  and  variety  of  her 
mineral  productions.  Almost  everywhere  in  the  State  iron  ore,  of  an  excellent 
quality,  is  abundant,  much  of  it  so  pure  that  when  broken  it  presents  the  ap 
pearance  of  cast  iron.  Two  or  three  deposits  of  coal  have  lately  been  discovered, 
the  beds  being  from  nine  to  twenty  feet  thick.  It  burns  well,  and  will  doubtless 
prove  to  be  of  an  excellent  quality  when  the  workings  are  carried  to  a  proper 
depth  on  the  veins.  Lead  is  found  in  abundance  in  many  parts  of  the  Territory ; 
also  large  veins  of  antimony,  the  ore  of  which  is  exceedingly  pure.  None  of 
these  are  worked  unless  found  to  contain  silver  in  paying  quantities.  Large  and 
very  rich  veins  of  copper  are  found  in  almost  every  part  of  the  country,  but  no 
attention  is  paid  to  them,  except  they  contain  silver.  The  copper  ores  are  of 
various  kinds;  the  rich  black  ore  as  heavy  as  lead;  the  blue  and  green  carbon 
ates,  and  other  varieties;  also  some  veins  in  which  native  copper  is  visible  in  the 
rock  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  running  in  fibers  through  the  vein  stone. 

In  Peavine  District,  about  eighteen  miles  north-west  of  Virginia  City,  and  near 
the  Truckee  river,  also  quite  near  the  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  are 
many  splendid  veins  of  copper.  These  veins  often  show  beautifuj  specimens  of 
pure  gold,  and  also  contain  a  considerable  per  cent,  of  silver.  The  ores  of  many 
of  these  veins  contain  a  sufficient  amount  of  gold  to  pay  for  shipping  and  work 
ing,  could  it  easily  be  separated  from  the  copper.  There  are  in  the  State  numerous 
large  beds  of  plumbago.  None  of  these  are  claimed  or  worked,  though  some 
-parties  at  one  time  tried  to  manufacture  fire-proof  bricks  from  this  material,  but 
fire-clay  of  good  quality  being  discovered,  the  plumbago  was  abandoned.  Some 
seventy  miles  east  of  Virginia  City,  in  the  deserts,  are  immense  fields  of  excel 
lent  salt,  much  of  it  being  equal  to  the  best  table  salt.  As  salt  is  much  used  by 
the  mills  in  the  various  processes  for  the  reduction  of  "silver  ores,  hundreds  of 
tuns  of  this  salt  are  brought  to  Virginia  City,  being  hauled  on  wagons  or  packed 
on  the  backs  of  mules.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Humboldt  mines  is  a  whole  moun 
tain  of  brimstone,  and  in  the  same  vicinity  are  found  extensive  beds  of  pure 


NEVADA. 


687 


alum.  Carbonate  of  soda  is  found  everywhere  in  the  alkaline  deserts  in  great 
quantities,  also  many  other  curious  mineral  productions. 

In  other  countries  rivers  generally  empty  into  seas,  the  ocean,  or  other  rivers, 
but  this  is  not  the  case  with  the  Nevada  rivers.  Nevada  rivers  start  off  and  run 
till  they  get  tired,  then  quit  and  go  into  the  ground.  Carson  river  rises  in  the 
Sierras,  runs  off  east,  and  disappears  in  what  is  known  as  Carson  Sink.  The 
Truckee  rises  in  the  Sierras,  runs  eastward,  and  sinks  in  Pyramid  Lake.  The 
Humholdt  comes  from  the  east,  and  disappears  at  Humboldt  Sink  and  Walker 
River  sinks  in  Walker  Lake.  None  of  these  sinks  or  lakes  have  any  visible  out 
let.  What  becomes  of  the  waters  of  these  rivers  would  be  about  as  hard  to  say 
as  to  tell  where  a  candle  goes  to  when  it  goes  out. 

An  old  miner  living  there,  used  to  swear  that  here  was  where  the  work  of  the 
creation  was  finished.  He  said  that  "  late  on  Saturday  evening  the  Almighty 
started  in  to  make  a  tremendous  great  river.  He  made  the  four  rivers  now  in 
Washoe  as  the  four  branches  thereof,  and  was  leading  them  along,  intending  to 
bring  them  together  in  one  mighty  river,  which  was  to  empty  into  the  ocean;  but 
of  a  sudden,  before  He  got  the  branches  together,  night  came  on,  and  the  Lord 
just  stuck  the  ends  into  the  ground  and  quit,  and  they  have  stayed  so  ever  since." 

We  conclude  this  article  with  an  extract  from  a  valuable  and  in 
structive  paper  in  Gazley's  Pacific  Monthly  for  March,  1865,  upon  the 
gold  and  silver  mines  of  California  and  Nevada : 

When  the  first  "  fever  "  broke  out  in  California,  placer-digging  was  the  haven 
where  all  were  bound,  and  here,  with  a  pan  or  rocker  as  the  only  "  machinery," 
millions  per  month  of  the  precious  treasure  were  gathered.  No  one  dreamed  of 
descending  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth  by  shaft  or  tunnel ;  no  one  imagined  that 
gold  must  have  a  matrix,  or  be  imbedded  in  rock,  or  could  be  traced  in  the  quartz, 
in  which  it  was  afterward  discovered  to  have  come  from. 

As  the  placer-digging  gradually  gave  out,  adventurous  spirits  began  to  inquire 
for  "  a  cause"  and  "  a  wherefore,"  and  on  finding  on  the  mountain-sides  bowlders 
containing  streaks  of  gold,  an  immediate  conclusion  was  formed  that  the  yellow 
beauty  must  have  a  mother,  and  that  quartz  must  be  the  womb.  Happy  thought! 
Quartz-mining  superseded  the  placer-digging,  and  in  every  part  of  the  State  a  new 
era  dawned.  Quartz  became  king.  The  mighty  attractions  of  the  placer-digging 
a  short  while  ago  were  forgotten.  And  here,  parenthetically,  I  would  observe, 
that  though  placer-mining  has  lost  interest  to  a  great  extent,  there  are  many  who 
will  agree  with  me  in  saying,  that  these  diggings  are  yet  valuable,  and  that  the 
*re  has  only  to  be  looked  for,  and  it  may  be  found  in  large  quantities  and  as  rich 
is  any  before  worked. 

Gold  quartz  was  the  only  one  known  at  this  time,  and  in  some  sections  was 
found  extremely  rich.  The  Allison  Ranch,  in  Grass  Valley,  California,  for  in 
stance,  has  ledges  which  might,  perhaps,  be  classed  with  any  mine  in  the  world 
for  richness.  Indeed,  ledges  have  been  found  all  over  the  State,  which  have 
yielded  to  the  fortunate  possessors  gigantic  fortunes. 

This  excitement  had  its  day,  and  new  fields  promising  greater  results  were 
sought.  Miners,  as  a  class,  especially  those  of  California,  are  impatient  and  too 
eager.  They  wander,  explore,  and  run  from  one  place  to  another.  Kern  River 
had  its  attractions,  and  off  they  went  helter-skelter.  Gold  River  and  Frazer  River 
carried  them  off  by  thousands,  to  the  old  tune  of  follow  your  leader,  and  come 
back  bootless.  Broken  in  health  and  penniless,  back  they  came  to  placer-digging, 
where  many  made  their  "  piles  "  out  of  the  very  claims  that  they  had,  a  little 
while  before,  given  up  as  worthless. 

And  now  broke  out  the  Washoe  silver-mining  mania,  and  the  same  results  fol 
lowed  as  at  first.  Many  returned  to  placer-digging,  in  California,  again  tired  and 
weary  of  life  and  everything  under  the  sun.  But  Washoe  had  a  glorious  destiny 
awaiting  her.  She  burst  with  a  blaze  of  glory  upon  the  world;  mines  richer 
than  the  famous  mines  of  Peru  were  found,  and  the  now  State  of  Nevada,  the 
youngest  of  the  sisterhood  of  States,  has  taken  her  rank  as  the  first  silver-mining 
region  in  the  world. 


688  NEVADA. 

Virginia  City  now  rears  her  lofty  chimneys  high  to  the  clouds,  from  mills  that 
are  daily  turning  her  very  foundations  into  bricks  of  silver  and  gold,  under  the 
protection  of  Mount  Davidson,  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Few 
cities  of  the  Pacific  States  rank  higher,  either  for  the  production  of  wealth  or 
moral  advancement,  than  she  does  at  the  present  moment.  And  her  destiny  is 
onward !  upward ! 

To  attempt  to  give  the  amount  taken  from  the  soil  of  Nevada  would  be  an  utter 
impossibility,  as  most  of  it  is  taken  to  other  places  by  private  hands,  and  never 
reaches  the  Mint — from  which  we  receive  the  data  to  make  up  our  calculations. 
The  coinage  can  give  us  no  information,  as  most  of  the  precious  bricks  of  silver 
and  gold  leave  San  Francisco  for  India,  China,  Peru,  England,  France,  and,  I  may 
say,  every  portion  of  the  globe,  without  being  counted  as  the  production  of  Ne 
vada. 

Now,  let  us  see  what  effect  the  wealth  of  California  and  Washoe  will  have  on 
the  monetary  world.  Financial  calculations  have,  of  late  years,  taken  range  and 
scope  beyond  the  experience  of  former  times.  As  commerce  extends,  as  industry 
becomes  more  general,  as  the  amount  of  wealth  increases,  and  as  the  national 
debt  becomes  larger  and  more  burdensome,  the  management  of  the  currency  is  a 
serious  question.  The  extraordinary  production  of  gold,  within  the  last  few  years, 
and  the  probable  great  increase  of  silver  in  the  future,  have  set  the  financiers  of 
the  world  to  work  to  devise  a  method  to  govern  and  direct  the  change. 

To  find  out  what  changes  may  be  expected  in  the  future,  we  must  look  back  at 
those  which  have  taken  place  in  the  past.  We  must  compare  our  present  stock 
of  the  precious  metals  with  that  which  existed  at  previous  epochs,  and  we  must 
compare  the  present  increase  with  that  of  previous  ages. 

The  amount  of  gold  and  silver  coin  in  the  possession  of  civilized  nations,  in 
the  year  1500,  is  estimated  at  $250,000,000. 

The  mines  of  Mexico,  Peru,  and  Bolivia  produced  an  immense  amount  of  silver 
during  the  century  following,  bringing  up  the  amount  stated  to  $750,000,000.  In 
1700,  the  sum  in  Europe — making  all  allowances  for  wear  and  shipments  to  India 
— had  risen  to  $1,500,000,000.  The  production  of  gold  and  silver  in  America 
during  the  eighteenth  century  is  estimated  at  $350,000,000.  There  was,  however, 
at  the  same  time,  a  great  export  of  silver  to  India,  a  considerable  wear,  amount 
ing  to  twenty  per  cent. — in  a  century — and  a  great  consumption  of  the  precious 
metals  in  ornaments  and  table  ware.  At  the  commencement  of  the  present  cen 
tury,  the  whole  known  amount  of  coin  in  the  world  was  estimated  at  $1,900,000, 
000.  From  1800  till  1820,  the  annual  production  of  the  world  was  about  $25,000, 
000,  and  from  1820  to  1848,  about  $40,000,000. 

With  the  discovery  of  the  gold  mines  of  California,  began  a  production 
large  beyond  all  previous  example,  and  almost  beyond  the  conception  of  former 
times. 

California  and  Australia  each  produced  $50,000,000  annually  for  some  years 
and  Russia  produced  $20,000,000. 

The  present  total  production  of  the  world  may  safely  be  put  down  at  $120,000, 
000  per  annum,  and  the  present  total  stock  of  coin  in  existence  at  $4,000,000,000. 
The  average  annual  export  of  silver  to  India  and  China  amounts  to  about  $50,000, 
000.  In  1857  it  came  up  to  $96,000,000,  while  in  1864  it  may  safely  be  put  down 
at  $120,000,000.  Once  exported,  very  little  is  ever  returned  to  the  circulation  of 
Europe  or  America.  While  the  precious  metals  were  increasing  in  quantity,  civil 
ization  was  extending  with  great  rapidity  ;  and  thus  we  see  verified  one  of  nature's 
great,  laws,  that  as  earth's  products  develop  an  increase,  so  does  civilization  and 
enlightenment  extend.  Thus  it  is  that  precious  metals  have  fallen  to  about  one- 
eighth  of  the  value  which  they  possessed  at  the  discovery  of  America. 

The  most  important  gold  region  of  the  United  States — and  perhaps  of  the 
world — is  California;  and  the  richest  silver  region  in  the  world  is  Nevada.  The 
development  of  both  has  added  untold  millions  to  the  wealth  of  the  world,  and 
1865  will,  no  doubt,  add  more  millions  than  could  be  imagined  by  the  most  ex 
perienced  calculator  or  political  economist  in  Europe. 

Gold  and  silver  mines  of  great  richness  are  found  in  the  range  or  ranges  from 


NEVADA. 


689 


the  city  of  Mexico,  through  theGila,  Washoe,  Oregon,  Frar.er  River,  to  the  Arctic 
Ocean ;  and  as  they  are  more  explored  and  opened  up,  the  northern  portion  will 
£rove  as  rich  as  the  southern,  which  astonished  the  world  at  former  periods. 

Since  the  discovery  of  the  mines  of  California  and  Washoe,  all  the  resources 
of  modern  science  have  been  taxed  to  find  out  the  best  way  of  working,  cheaply 
and  thoroughly,  the  ores  of  the  different  ranges  and  formations.  All  the  Pacific 
States  abound  in  the  precious  metals  held  in  quartz  rock.  The  gold  or  silver- 
bearing  quartz  runs  in  veins  through  an  entirely  different  rock,  which  forms  walls 
on  both  sides  as  the  vein  is  worked.  When  a  vein,  or  what  is  called  a  ledge,  is 
discovered,  the  discoverer  becomes  the  possessor  of  so  many  feet,  on  which  he  can 
claim  all  its  dips,  spurs,  angles,  and  as  many  feet  on  each  side  as  the  mining  laws 
allow.  He  must  do  a  certain  amount  of  work  to  hold  good  his  claim,  as  estab 
lished  by  the  laws  of  the  district  in  which  his  claim  is  located.  The  recorder 
goes  on  the  ground,  and  if  all  is  correct,  he  issues  his  certificate  (miners'  laws  are 
always  respected  in  California  and  Nevada).  The  mines  of  Nevada  have  but  re 
cently  attracted  the  attention  of  the  capitalists  of  the  world  by  their  known  rich 
ness,  extent,  and  capability  of  being  worked.  The  western  range,  on  which  tfye 
famed  Comstock  is  located,  has  many  other  ledges  equally  rich  on  the  same  range 
of  hills  (for  Virginia  has  hundreds  of  ledges  situated  on  Mount  Davidson  and 
Ophir  Hills),  all  of  which  have  become  famous  to  the  world ;  and  the  eastern 
range  or  Reese  River,  with  its  ledges,  richer  than  even  the  Comstock  range,  has 
proved  to  be  full  of  mines,  so  rich,  so  extensive,  that  in  a  few  years  these  mines 
will  occupy,  in  the  eye  of  the  capitalist,  a  most  important  spot  in  which  to  invest 
his  surplus  capital. 

The  extraordinary  developments  of  mineral  deposits  in  the  countries  within 
the  confines  and  limits  of  the  ancient  Alta  California,  form  one  of  the  grandest 
epochs  in  the  annals  of  our  race.  These  discoveries  of  the  precious  metals  have 
not  all  been  of  recent  date.  In  1700  the  rich  mines  of  North  Sinaloa  were 
opened;  in  1730  the  Planchas  de  Plata  of  Arizona,  or  masses  of  native  silver, 
were  found.  Then  we  had  in  1770  the  great  placers  of  Clenaquilla,  to  the  north 
of  Hermosilla,  where  the  immense  chispa  of  seventy  pounds  was  found,  and  sent 
to  the  cabinet  of  the  King  of  Spain,  and  several  millions  were  picked  up  in  its 
vicinity  in  a  few  years.  After  this  came  the  discoveries  further  north,  on  the 
rivers  which  flow  into  the  Gila  from  the  south,  and  also  the  headwaters  of  the 
Sonora  River,  and  those  of  the  Opasura  and  Yaqui,  which  interlock  with  the  tri 
butaries  of  the  Gila  in  the  country  of  the  Opatas,  Terahumaras,  Yanos,  and 
Apaches,  and  which,  by  spasmodic  starts,  yielded  large  quantities  of  gold.  This 
section  of  the  present  Arizona,  and  as  far  up  north  as  the  Navajos,  and  east  to 
the  Camanche  range,  is  known  in  Mexico  as  the  Apacharia,  of  which  the  most 
apparently  fabulous  stories  have  been  told,  from  1770  to  1864,  concerning  the  ex 
istence  of  immense  mines  and  deposits  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  and  quicksilver, 
both  in  veins  and  pure  metal,  but  which  are  every  day  proving  the  truth  of  the 
accounts  of  the  old  missionaries  and  Gambusinos. 

After  1800,  till  1846,  discoveries  were  made  in  many  places  every  few  years, 
near  all  the  old  mission  settlements  of  Sonora.  In  1825  Captain  Patie  mentions 
that  rich  gold  placers  were  worked  near  Bacuachi,  not  far  south  of  Tucson,  and 
the  price  of  gold  was  only  eleven  and  twelve  dollars  to  the  ounce.  The  account 
of  Captain  Patie,  who  died  at  San  Diego,  in  1829,  is  the  first  printed  one  we  have 
of  any  American,  or  even  other  parties,  who  came  by  land  to  California  through 
Sonora  or  New  Mexico.  He  mentions  several  other  places  in  the  Bacuachi,  or 
River  San  Pedro  country,  where  gold  was  produced  in  abundance  when  the 
Apaches  were  out  of  the  way.  Again,  from  1838  to  1846,  the  gold  placers  of 
San  Fernando,  near  Los  Angeles,  are  of  public  notoriety  as  yielding  very  hand 
some  returns. 

From  1848  to  1864  the  discoveries  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper  have  been  con 
stant  and  of  every-day  notoriety.  The  prospectors  have  ranged  from  the  Gila, 
north  to  the  Russian  possessions,  and  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  the  interlocking 
branches  of  the  Columbia,  Missouri,  Colorado,  and  Rio  Grande  del  Norte.  It  haa 
been  of  daily  record  for  the  last  fifteen  years  that  all  this  immense  extent  of  coun- 
44 


690 


NEVADA. 


try,  gives  to  the  world  the  knowledge  of  exhaustless  millions  of  treasure,  awaiting 
but  the  hand  of  labor  to  throw  it  into  the  channel  of  commerce,  and  the  road  to 
population  and  power. 

Not  a  single  precious  metal  or  valuable  mineral  of  trade  or  science  but  what  is 
found  in  abundant  out-crops,  or  washings,  in  all  these  States  and  Territories.  A 
very  singular  and  unlooked-for  exhibition  has  been  going  on  for  the  last  few  years. 
The  explorers  of  Sonora,  California  and  Nevada  have  been  out  on  prospecting  ex 
peditions  in  the  deserts,  mountains,  and  ranges  on  the  Pacific,  while  those  of  Pike's 
Peak  and  the  Kocky  Mountains,  from  the  east,  have  been  gradually  extending  their 
lines  and  distances  till  they  now  meet  the  mining  parties  from  Oregon,  Washington, 
and  Nevada,  in  Cariboo,  Idaho,  and  Utah.  This  magnificent  mineral  empire  is 
the  most  wealthy  and  extended  known  to  the  world.  It  has  an  advantage  superior 
to  all  other  mineral  fields,  in  being  in  the  vicinity  of  sea  navigation,  and  has  a 
climate  of  unsurpassed  salubrity.  While  in  the  neighborhood  of  most  of  our 
mineral  deposits  the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  inviting  the  husbandman  to  a  rich 
return  for  his  labor,  and  boundless  pastures  to  the  herdsman ;  and,  it  may  be 
added,  that  within  our  metalliferous  ranges,  valleys  exist  of  the  most  picturesque 
and  beautiful  character;  views  equaled  by  no  country  in  Europe,  will  invite  the 
pleasure-seeker  to  travel  for  health,  recreation,  or  pleasure ;  and  a  few  years  will 
see  the  aristocracy  of  Europe  thronging  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  as  they  now  do 
the  Continent.  The  borders  of  Lake  Tehoe  or  Bigler  will  be  as  famous  as  the 
Lake  of  Como,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  will  be  climbed  by  tourists  as  are  the  Alps 
of  Switzerland.  The  Falls  of  Yo  Semite  will  be  a  greater  wonder  than  the  Falls 
of  Niagara,  and  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  will  be  dotted  with 
princely  palaces. 


OREGON. 


OREGON  is  one  of  the  Pacific  states.     The  name,  Oregon,  is  from  Oregano, 
the  Spanish  word  for  wild  marjoram;  and  it  is  from  this  word,  or  some  other 

similar,  that  its  name  is  supposed  to 
have  arisen.  "But  little  was  known 
of  even  its  coast  up  to  the  latter  part 
of  the  last  century.  Immediately 
after  the  last  voyage  of  the  renowned 
navigator,  Capt.  Cook,  the  immense 
quantities  of  sea-otter,  beaver  and 
other  valuable  furs  to  be  obtained  on 
the  north-west  coast  of  America,  and 
the  enormous  prices  which  they  would 
bring  in  China,  was  communicated  to 
civilized  nations,  and  created  as  much 
excitement  as  the  discovery  of  a  new 
gold  region.  Multitudes  of  people 
rushed  at  once  into  this  lucrative 
traffic:  so  that  in  the  year  1792,  it  is 
said  that  there  were  twenty-one  vessels 
under  different  flags,  but  principally 
American,  plying  along  the  coast  of 
Oregon,  and  trading  with  the  natives. 
On  the  7th  of  May,  1792,  Capt.  Robert  Gray,  of  the  ship  Columbia.,  of  Bos 
ton,  discovered  and  entered  the  river,  which  he  named  from  his  vessel.  He 
was,  in  reality,  the  first  person  who  established  the  fact  of  the  existence  of 
this  great  river,  and  this  gave  to  the  United  States  the  right  to  the  country 
drained  by  its  waters  by  the  virtue  of  discovery.  In  1804- '5,  Lewis  and 
Clark  explored  the  country,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  to  that  of  the 
Columbia.  This  exploration  of  the  Columbia,  the  first  ever  made,  consti 
tuted  another  ground  of  the  claim  of  the  United  States  to  the  country. 

In  1808,  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  through  their  agent,  Mr.  Henry, 
established  a  trading-post  on  Lewis  River,  a  branch  of  the  Columbia,  which 
was  the  first  establishment  of  civilized  people  in  this  section  of  country. 
An  attempt  was  made  that  year,  by  Capt.  Smith,  of  the  Albatross,  of  Bos 
ton,  to  found  a  trading-post  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia,  forty  miles 


ARMS  OF  OREGON, 
MOTTO — Alls  volat  yropriis — I  fly  with  my  own 


propms— 
wing. 


OREGON. 

from  its  mtmtli.     It  was  abandoned  the  same  season,  and  that  of  Mr.  Henry 
in  1810. 

In  the  year  1810,  John  Jacob  Astor,  a  German  merchant  of  New  York,  who  had 
accumulated  an  immense  fortune  by  commerce  in  the  Pacific  and  China,  formed 
the  Pacific  Fur  Company.  His  first  objects  were  to  concentrate  in  the  company, 
the  fur  trade  in  the  unsettled  parts  of  America,  and  also  the  supply  of  merfehan- 
dise  for  the  Russian  fur-trading  establishments  in  the  North  Pacific.  For  these 
purposes,  posts  were  established  on  the  Missouri,  and  the  Columbia,  and  vicinity. 
These  posts  were  to  be  supplied  with  the  merchandise  required  for  trading  by  ships 
from  the  Atlantic  coast,  or  across  the  country  by  way  of  the  Missouri.  A  factory 
or  depot  was  to  be  founded  on  the  Pacific,  for  receiving  this  merchandise,  and  dis 
tributing  it  to  the  different  posts,  and  for  receiving  in  turn  furs  from  them,  which 
were  to  be  sent  by  ships  from  thence  to  Canton.  Vessels  were  also  to  be  sent  from 
the  United  States  to  the  factory  with  merchandise,  to  be  traded  for  furs,  which 
would  then  be  sent  to  Canton,  and  there  exchanged  for  teas,  silks,  etc.,  to  be  ip 
turn  distributed  in  Europe  and  America. 

This  stupendous  enterprise  at  the  time  appeared  practicable.  The  only  party 
from  whom  any  rivalry  could  be  expected,  was  the  British  North-west  Company, 
and  their  means  were  far  inferior  to  those  of  Astor.  From  motives  of  policy,  he 
offered  them  one  third  interest,  which  they  declined,  secretly  intending  to  forestall 
him.  Having  matured  his  scheme,  Mr.  Astor  engaged  partners,  clerks,  and  voya- 
geurSj  the  majority  of  whom  were  Scotchmen  and  Canadians,  previously  in  the 
service  of  the  North-west  Company.  Wilson  P.  Hunt,  of  New  Jersey,  was  chosen 
the  chief  agent  of  the  operations  in  western  America. 

In  September,  1810,  the  ship  Tonquin,  Cupt  Thorn,  left  New  York  for  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  with  four  of  the  partners,  M'Kay,  M'Dougal,  and  David  and 
Robert  Stuart,  all  British  subjects,  with  clerks,  voyageurs,  and  mechanics.  In  Jan 
uary,  1811,  the  second  detachment,  with  Hunt,  M'Clellan,  M'Kenzie,  and  Crooks, 
also  left  New  York  to  go  overland  by  the  Missouri  to  the  same  point,  and  in  Octo 
ber,  1811,  the  ship  Beaver,  Capt.  Sowles,  with  several  clerks  and  attaches,  left  New 
York  for  the  North  Pacific.  Prior  to  these,  in  1809,  Mr.  Astor  had  dispatched  the 
Enterprise,  Capt.  Ebberts,  to  make  observations  at  the  Russian  settlements,  and  to 
prepare  the  way  for  settlements  in  Oregon.  He  also,  in  1811,  sent  an  agent  to  St. 
Petersburg,  who  obtained  from  the  Russian  American  Fur  Company,  the  monopoly 
of  supplying  their  posts  in  the  North  Pacific  with  merchandise,  and  receiving  furs 
in  exchange. 

In  March,  1811,  the  Tonquin  arrived  at  the  Columbia,  and  soon  after  they  com 
menced  erecting  on  the  south  bank,  a  few  miles  inland,  their  factory  or  depot 
building:  this  place  they  named  Astoria.  In  June,  the  Tonquin,  with  M'Kay 
sailed  north  to  make  arrangements  for  trading  with  the  Russians.  In  July,  the 
Astorians  Avere  surprised  by  the  appearance  of  a  party  of  the  North-west  Compa 
ny,  under  Mr.  Thompson,  who  had  come  overland  from  Canada,  to  forestall  them 
in  the  occupation  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia;  but  had  been  delayed  too  latt 
for  this  purpose,  in  seeking  a  passage  through  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  had  beei 
obliged  to  winter  there.  Mr.  Thompson  was  accompanied  on  his  return  by  David 
Stuart,  who  founded  the  trading  post  called  Okonogan. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  next  year  (1812),  the  detachment  of  Hunt  came  into 
Astoria,  in  parties,  and  in  a  wretched  condition.  They  had  been  over  a  year  in 
coming  from  St.  Louis ;  had  undergone  extreme  suffering  from  hunger,  thirst,  and 
cold,  in  their  wanderings  that  winter,  through  the  dreary  wilderness  of  snow-clad 
mountains,  from  which,  and  other  causes,  numbers  of  them  perished.  In  May, 
1*12,  the  Beaver,  bringing  the  third  detachment,  under  Mr.  Clark,  arrived  in  As 
toria.  They  brought  a  letter  which  had  been  left  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  by  Capt. 
Kbberts,  of  the  Enterprise,  containing  the  sad  intelligence  that  the  Tonquin  and 
her  crew  had  been  destroyed  by  the  savages,  near  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  the  June 
preceding. 

In  August,  Mr.  Hunt,  leaving  Astoria  in  the  charge  of  M'Dougal,  embarked  in 
the  Beaver  to  trade  with  the  Russian  posts,  which  was  to  have  been  done  by  the 
Tonquin.  He  was  successful,  and  effected  a  highly  advantageous  arrangement  at 
Sitka,  with  Baranof,  governor  of  Russian  America;  took  in  a  rich  cargo  of  furs, 


OREGON.  693 

and  dispatched  the  vessel  to  Canton,  via  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  he,  in  per 
son,  remained,  and  in  1814,  he  returned  to  Astoria  in  the  Peddler,  which  he  had 
chartered,  and  found  that  Astoria  was  in  the  hands  of  the  North-west  Company. 

When  Hunt  left  in  the  Beaver,  a  party  was  dispatched,  which  established  a 
trading  post  on  the  Spokan.  Messrs.  Crooks,  M'Cellan,  and  Robert  Stuart  about 
this  time,  set  out  and  crossed  overland  to  New  York,  with  an  account  of  what  had 
been  done.  The  trade  was  in  the  meantime  very  prosperous,  and  a  large  quantity 
of  furs  had  been  collected  at  Astoria. 

In  January,  1813,  the  Astorians  learned  from  a  trading  vessel  that  a  war  had 
broken  out  with  England.  A  short  time  after,  M'Tavish  and  Laroque,  partners 
of  the  North-west  Company,  arrived  at  Astoria;  M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie  (both 
Scotchmen)  were  the  only  partners  there,  and  they  unwisely  agreed  to  dissolve  the 
company  in  July.  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clark,  at  the  Okonogan  and  Spokan  posts, 
both  of  which  are  within  the  limits  of  Washington  Territory,  opposed  this ;  but 
it  was  finally  agreed  that  if  assistance  did  not  soon  arrive  from  the  United  States, 
they  would  abandon  the  enterprise. 

M'Tavish  and  his  followers,  of  the  North-west  Company,  again  visited  Astoria, 
where  they  expected  to  meet  the  Isaac  Todd,  an  armed  ship  from  London,  which 
had  orders 'to  take  and  destroy  everything  American  on  the  north-west  coast.' 
Notwithstanding,  they  were  hospitably  received,  and  held  private  conferences  with 
M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie,  the  result  of  which  was,  that  they  sold  out  the  establish 
ment,  furs,  etc.,  of  the  Pacific  Company  in  the  country,  to  the  North-west  Compa 
ny,  for  about  $58,004.  That  company  were  thus  enabled  to  establish  themselves 
in  the  country. 

Thus  ended  the  Astoria  enterprise.  Had  the  directing  partners  on  the  Colum 
bia  been  Americans  instead  of  foreigners,  it  is  believed  that  they  would,  notwith 
standing  the  war,  have  withstood  all  their  difficulties.  The  sale  was  considered 
disgraceful,  and  the  conduct  of  M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie  in  that  sale  and  subse 
quently,  were  such  as  to  authorize  suspicions  against  their  motives;  yet  they 
could  not  have  been  expected  to  engage  in  hostilities  against  their  countrymen  and 
old  friends. 

The  name  of  Astoria  was  changed  by  the  British  to  that  of  Fort  George.  From 
1813  to  1823,  few,  if  any,  American  citizens  entered  the  countries  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Nearly  all  the  trade  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  Missouri, 
was  carried  on  by  the  Old  North  American  Fur  Company,  of  which  Astor  was  the 
head ;  and  by  the  Columbian  Fur  Company,  formed  m  1822,  composed  mainly  of 
persons  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  North-west  Company,  and  were  dissat 
isfied  with  it.  The  Columbia  Company  established  posts  on  the  upper  waters  of 
the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  and  the  Yellow  Stone,  which  were  transferred,  in 
1826,  to  the  North  American  Company,  on  the  junction  of  the  two  bodies.  About 
this  time,  the  overland  trade  with  banta  Fe  commenced,  caravans  passing  regular 
ly  every  summer  between  St.  Louis  and  that  place.  In  1824,  Ashley,  of  St.  Louis, 
re-established  commercial  communications  with  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  built  a  trading  post  on  Ashley's  Lake,  in  Utah. 

These  active  proceedings  of  the  Missouri  fur  traders,  stimulated  the  North 
American  Fur  Company  to  send  their  agents  and  attaches  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  although  they  built  no  posts.  In  1827,  Mr.  Pilcher,  of  Missouri,  went 
through  the  South  Pass  with  forty-five  men,  and  wintered  on  the  head-waters  of 
the  Colorado,  in  what  is  now  the  north-east  part  of  Utah.  The  next  year  he  pro 
ceeded  northwardly,  along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  near  latitude  47 
deg.  There  he  remained  until  the  spring  of  1829,  when  he  descended  Clark  River 
to  Fort  Colville,  then  recently  established  at  the  falls,  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com 
pany,  which  had  a  few  years  previous  absorbed  and  united  the  interests  of  the 
North-west  Company.  He  returned  to  the  United  States,  through  the  long  and 
circuitous  far  northward  route  of  the  Upper  Columbia,  the  Athabasca,  the  Assina- 
boin,  Red  River,  and  the  Upper  Missouri.  But  little  was  known  of  the  countries 
through  which  Pilcher  traversed,  previous  to  the  publication  of  his  concise  narra 
tive.  The  account  of  the  rambles  of  J.  O.  Pattie,  a  Missouri  fur  trader,  through 
New  Mexico,  Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and  California,  threw  some  light  on  the  geogra 
phy  of  those  countries.  In  1832,  Capt.  Bonneville,  U.S.A.,  while  on  a  furlough, 
89 


OREGON". 

led  a  party  of  one  hundred  men  from  Missouri,  over  the  mountains,  where  he  passed 
more  than  two  years  on  the  Columbia  and  Colorado,  in  hunting,  trapping,  and 
trading. 

About  the  same  time,  Captain  Wyeth,  of  Massachusetts,  attempted  to  establish 
commercial  relations  with  the  countries  on  the  Columbia,  to  which  the  name  of 
Oregon  then  began  to  be  universally  applied.  His  plan  was  like  that  of  Astor, 
with  the  additional  scheme  of  transporting  the  salmon  of  the  Oregon  rivers  to  the 
United  States.  He  made  two  overland  expeditions  to  Oregon,  established  Fort 
Hall  as  a  trading  post,  and  another  mainly  for  fishing  purposes,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Willamette.  This  scheme  failed,  owing  to  the  rivalry  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  who  founded  the  counter  establishment  of  Fort  Boise,  where,  offering 
goods  to  the  Indians  at  lower  prices  than  Wyeth  could  afford,  compelled  him  to 
desist,  and  he  sold  out  his  interests  to  them.  Meanwhile,  a  brig  he  had  dispatched 
from  Boston,  arrived  in  the  Columbia,  and  returned  with  a  cargo  of  salted  salmon, 
but  the  results  not  being  auspicious,  the  enterprise  was  abandoned. 

The  American  traders  being  excluded  by  these,  and  other  means  from  Oregon, 
mainly  confined  themselves  to  the  regions  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Colorado  and 
the  Utah  Lake,  where  they  formed  one  or  two  small  establishments,  and  sometimes 
extended  their  rambles  as  far  west  as  San  Francisco  and  Monterey.  The  number 
of  American  hunters  and  trappers  thus  employed  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
seldom  exceeded  two  hundred;  where,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  they 
roved  through  the  wilds  in  search  of  furs  which  they  conveyed  to  their  places  of 
rendezvous  in  the  mountain  valleys,  and  bartered  with  them  to  the  Missouri 
traders. 

About  the  time  of  Wyeth's  expeditions,  were  the  earliest  emigrations  to  Oregon 
of  settlers  from  the  United  States.  The  first  of  these  was  founded  in  1834,  in  the 
Willamette  Valley,  by  a  body  of  Methodists  who  went  round  by  sea  under  the  di 
rection  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Lee  and  Shepherd.  In  that  valley  a  few  retired  ser 
vants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  then  residing,  and  engaged  in  herding 
cattle.  The  Congregationalists  or  Presbyterians  planted  colonies  two  or  three 
vears  after,  in  the  Walla-walla  and  Spokan  countries,  with  Messrs.  Parker,  Spauld- 
ing,  Gray,  Walker,  Eels,  Smith,  and  Whitman  as  missionaries. 

In  all  of  these  places  mission  schools  were  established  for  the  instruction  of  the 
natives,  and  in  1839,  a  printing  press  was  started  at  Walla-walla  (now  in  Washington 
Territory),  where  were  printed  the  first  sheets  ever  struck  off,  on  the  Pacific  side 
of  the  mountains,  north  of  Mexico.  On  it  books  were  printed  from  types  set  by 
native  compositors.  The  Roman  Catholics  from  Missouri,  soon  after  founded  sta 
tions  on  Clark  River. 

About  the  year  1837,  the  American  people  began  to  be  deeply  interested  in  the 
subject  of  the  claims  of  the  United  States  to  Oregon,  and  societies  were  formed 
for  emigration.  From  them  and  other  sources,  petitions  were  presented  to  con 
gress,  to  either  make  a  definite  arrangement  with  Great  Britain,  the  other  claim 
ant,  or  take  immediate  possession  of  the  country.  In  each  year,  from  1838  to 
1843,  small  parties  emigrated  overland  from  Missouri  to  Oregon,  suffering  much 
hardship  on  the  route.  At  the  close  of  1842,  the  American  citizens  there  num 
bered  about  four  hundred.  Relying  upon  the  promise  of  protection  held  out  by 
the  passage  of  the  bill  in  February,  1843,  by  the  U.  S.  senate  for  the  immediate 
occupation  of  Oregon,  about  one  thousand  emigrants,  men,  women,  and  children, 
assembled  at  Westport,  on  the  Missouri  frontier,  in  the  succeeding  June,  and  fol 
lowed  the  route  up  the  Platte,  and  through  the  South  Pass,  surveyed  the  previous 
year  by  Fremont;  thence  by  Fort  Hall  to  the  Willamette  Valley,  where  they 
arrived  in  October,  after  a  laborious  and  fatiguing  journey  of  more  than  two  thous 
and  miles.  Others  soon  followed,  and  before  the  close  of  the  next  year,  over  3,000 
American  citizens  were  in  Oregon. 

By  the  treaty  for  the  purchase  of  Florida,  in  1819,  the  boundary  between  the 
Spanish  possessions  and  the  United  States  was  fixed  on  the  N.W.,  at  lat.  42  degs., 
the  present  northern  line  of  Utah  and  California;  by  this  the  United  States  suc 
ceeded  to  such  title  to  Oregon  as  Spain  may  have  derived  by  the  right  of  discovery 
through  its  early  navigators.  In  June,  of  1846,  all  the  difficulties  in  relation  to 
Oregon,  which  at  one  time  threatened  war,  were  settled  by  treaty  between  the  two 


OREGON.  (595 

nations.  In  1841,  the  coast  of  Oregon  was  visited  by  the  ships  of  the  United 
States  Exploring  Expedition,  under  Lieut  Charles  Wilkes.  At  that  time,  Wilkes 
estimated  the  population  to  be:  of  Indians,  19,199;  Canadians  and  half-breeds, 
650 ;  and  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  150.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  then 
had  twenty-five  forts  and  trading  stations  in  Oregon." 

Oregon  was  organized  as  a  territory  in  1848,  and  included  in  its  bounda 
ries  the  present  Territory  of  Washington — an  immense  area  of  about 
250,000  square  miles,  with  an  average  width  east  and  west  of  540,  and  north 
and  south  of  470  miles.  A  state  constitution  was  adopted  in  convention, 
Sept.  18,  1857,  and  ratified  by  the  people  on  the  9th  of  November  following. 
At  the  same  time  the  question  of  admitting  slaves  and  free  negroes  into  the 
state  was  submitted  to  the  people.  The  vote  on  these  questions  was:  for 
slavery,  2,645;  against  slavery,  7,727;  majority  against,  5,082;  for  free  ne 
groes,  1,081;  against  free  negroes,  8,640;  majority  against,  7,559.  The 
constitution  prohibited  negroes,  Chinamen,  and  mulattoes  from  voting ;  and 
persons  concerned  in  dueling  ineligible  to  offices  of  trust  and  profit.  On  the 
14th  of  Feb.,  1859,  Oregon  was  admitted  by  congress  as  a  state,  and  with 
greatly  contracted  boundaries.  Its  extreme  extent  in  latitude  is  from  42° 
to  46°  12'  N.,  in  longitude  from  116°  45'  to  124°  30'  W.  from  Greenwich. 
U  has  an  average  length,  east  and  west,  of  about  350,  and  width,  north  and 
^outh,  of  260  miles  giving  an  area  of  about  90,000  square  miles.  The  act 
-f  admission  gives  two  sections  of  land  in  every  township  for  the  use  of 
schools,  grants  72  sections  for  a  state  university,  and  five  per  cent,  of  the 
net  proceeds  of  the  sales  of  the  public  lands  for  public  roads  and  internal 
improvements  within  the  state. 

Oregon  is  bounded,  north  by  Washington  Territory,  east  by  Idaho  Terri 
tory,  south  by  California  and  Nevada,  and  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is 
divided  into  three  section.  The  first,  or  western  section  is  that  between  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains.  This  range  runs  parallel 
with  the  sea  coast  the  whole  length  of  the  state,  and  is  continued  through  Cali 
fornia,  under  the  name  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  second,  or  middle  section, 
is  that  between  the  Cascade  and  Blue  Mountains:  it  comprises  nearly  half 
the  state :  the  surface  is  about  1,000  feet  above  the  western  section.  It  is 
generally  a  high  rolling  prairie  country,  destitute  of  timber,  and  but  a  small 
part  of  it  adapted  to  farming.  The  third,  or  eastern  section,  lies  south  and 
east  of  the  Blue  Mountains:  it  is  mostly  a  rocky  and  barren  waste.  The 
Columbia  is  the  great  river  of  the  state,  nearly  all  others  being  its  tributa 
ries.  It  is  navigable  from  the  ocean  120  miles,  for  vessels  of  12  feet  draught : 
from  thence  its  course  is  obstructed  by  falls  and  rapids,  which  will  eventually 
be  overcome  by  locks  and  canals.  During  freshets,  it  is  in  many  places  con 
fined  by  dalles,  i.  e.  narrows,  which  back  the  water,  covering  the  islands  and 
tracts  of  low  prairie,  giving  the  appearance  of  lakes.  The  Dalles  of  the 
Columbia,  94  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Lewis  Fork,  is  a  noted  place,  where 
the  river  passes  between  vast  masses  of  rock. 

The  settled  part  of  Oregon,  and  the  only  portion  likely  to  possess  much 
interest  for  years  to  come,  is  the  first  or  western  section,  lying  between  the 
Cascade  Mountains  and  the  Pacific — a  strip  of  country  280  long,  north  and. 
south,  and  120  miles  broad,  east  and  west.  A  writer  familiar  with  it  give* 
this  description: 

Western  Oregon,  between  the  Cascades  and  the  Pacific,  is  made  up  chiefly  of 
three  valleys,  those  of  the  Willamette  (pronounced  Wil-lam'-ette),  Umpqua  and 
Rogue  Rivers.  The  first  named  stream  begins  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  runs 
west  60  miles,  then  turns  northward,  runs  140  miles,  and  empties  into  the  Colum- 


696 


OREGON. 


bia.  Tfte  last  two  begin  in  the  Cascades,  and  run  westward  to  the  ocean.  There 
are,  perhaps,  several  thousand  miners  including  Chinamen,  in  the  Rogue  River 
valley;  but  nearly  the  whole  permanent  farming  population  is  in  the  Valley  of  the 
Willamette.  This  valley,  taking  the  word  in  its  more  restricted  sense  of  the  low 
land,  is  from  30  to  40  miles  wide  and  120  miles  long.  This  may  be  said  to  be  the 


View  in  the  Valley  of  the  Willamette. 

whole  of  agricultural  Oregon.  It  is  a  beautiful,  fertile,  well-watered  plain,  with  a 
little  timber  along  the  streams,  and  a  great  deal  in  the  mountains  on  each  side. 
The  soil  is  a  gravelly  clay,  covered  near  the  creeks  and  rivers  with  a  rich  sandy 
l«»am.  The  vegetation  of  the  valley  is  composed  of  several  indigenous  grasses,  a 
number  of  flowering  plants  and  ferns,  the  latter  being  very  abundant,  and  exceed 
ingly  troublesome  to  the  farmer  on  account  of  its  extremely  tough  vitality. 

The  tributary  streams  of  the  Willamette  are  very  numerous,  and  their  course  in 
the  valley  is  usually  crooked,  as  the  main  stream  itself  is,  having  many  "sloughs," 
"bayous,"  or  "arms."  as  they  are  differently  called.  In  some  places  the  land  is 
marshy,  and  everywhere  moist.  Drouth  will  never  be  known  in  western  Oregon; 
its  climate  is  very  wet,  both  summer  and  winter,  the  latter  season  being  one  long 
rain,  and  the  former  consisting  of  many  short  ones,  with  a  little  sunshine  interven 
ing.  The  winters  are  warm,  and  the  summers  rather  cool — too  cool  for  growing 
melons,  maize  and  sweet  potatoes.  Wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  domestic 
animals  thrive  well.  The  climate,  take  it  all  in  all,  is  much  like  that  of  England, 
and  all  plants  and  animals  which  do  well  in  Britain  will  prosper  in  Oregon.  The 
Oregon  fruit  is  excellent,  particularly  the  apples  and  plums;  the  peaches  and  pears 
are  not  quite  so  good  as  those  of  California. 

All  along  the  coast  of  Oregon,  there  is  a  range  of  mountains  about  forty  miles 
wide,  and  they  are  so  densely  timbered  with  cedar,  pine,  spruce  and  fir,  that  the 
density  of  the  wood  alone  would  render  them  worthless  for  an  age,  if  they  were 
not  rugged.  But  they  are  very  rugged,  and  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue  Rivers,  in 
making  their  way  through  them,  have  not  been  able  to  get  any  bottom  lands,  and 
are  limited  to  narrow,  high-walled  canons.  The  only  tillable  lands  on  the  banks 
of  those  rivers  are  about  fifty  miles  from  the  sea,  each  having  a  valley  which,  in 
general  terms,  may  be  described  as  twelve  miles  wide  by  thirty  long.  .Rogue  River 
valley  is  separated  from  California  by  the  Siskiyou  Mountains,  about  5,000  feet 
high,  and  from  Umpqua  valley  by  the  Canon  Mountains,  about  3,000  feet  high ;  and 


OREGON. 


697 


the  Umpqua  again  is  separated  from  the  Willamette  valley  by  the  Calapooya  Moun 
tains,  also  about  3,000  feet  high. 

All  Oregon — that  is,  its  western  division,  except  the  low  lands  of  the  Willamette, 
Umpqua  and  Rogue  valleys — is  covered  with  dense  timber,  chiefly  of  coarse  grained 
wood — such  as  fir,  spruce  and  hemlock.  In  the  south-western  corner  of  the  state, 
however,  there  are  considerable  forests  of  white  cedar — a  large  and  beautiful  tree, 
producing  a  soft,  fine-grained  lumber,  and  very  fragrant  with  a  perfume,  which 
might  be  imitated  by  mixing  ottar  of  roses  with  turpentine.  Oak  and  ash  are  rare. 
Nearly  all  the  trees  are  coniferous. 


Giant  Pines  of  Oregon. 

In  Rogue  valley  and  along  the  beach  of  the  Pacific  there  are  extensive  gold  dig 
gings.  There  are  also  large  seams  of  tertiary  coal  at  Goose  Bay.  These  are  the 
only  valuable  minerals  in  the  state.  The  scenery  on  the  Columbia  is  grand,  from 
Walla-walla,  where  it  first  touches  Oregon,  to  the  ocean.  There  are  five  mountain 
peaks  in  the  state,  rising  to  the  region  of  perpetual  snow:  Mount  Hood,  13,700 
feet  high;  Mount  Jefferson,  11,900;  the  Three  Sisters,  Mount  Scott,  and  Mount 
McLaughlin,  all  about  9,000  feet  high.  ^ 

The  people  are  generally  intelligent,  industrious  and  moral.  There  are  about  a 
dozen  newspapers  published  in  Oregon,  all  of  them  weeklies.  The  chief  exports 
are  wheat,  flour,  apples,  butter,  cheese,  salted  salmon,  salted  meats,  and  coals,  and 
from  10,000  to  20,000  head  of  horned  cattle  and  sheep  are  annually  driven  to  Cal 
ifornia. 

Salmon  are  very  abundant  in  the  Columbia  and  its  branches,  and  those  taken  at 
the  mouth  of  the  main  stream  are  said  to  be  the  best  on  the  coast.  The  fishing  is 
done  chiefly  bjr  Indians. 

Such  is  a  brief  and  a  fair  statement  of  the  resources  and  condition  of  Oregon. 
It  is  made  to  convey  a  correct  idea  of  the  state — not  to  attract  or  deter  emigratioa 


698  OREGON. 

California  has  a  clearer  sky,  a  more  agreeable  climate,  more  extensive  and  richer 
deposits  of  valuable  minerals,  greater  natural  facilities  for  internal  trade  and  ex 
ternal  commerce,  a  greater  variety  of  soil  and  clime,  fitting  it  for  the  growth  of 
the  fig,  the  orange,  the  olive,  and  the  date,  as  well  as  of  the  vine,  apple,  and  wheat ; 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  has  the  disadvantages  of  scanty  timber,  very  dry  summers 
and  autumns — compelling  the  farmer  to  irrigate  his  land — an  unsettled  population, 
a  small  proportion  of  families,  an  unsteady  course  of  trade,  and  unsettled  titles  to 
most  of  the  soil  under  occupation.  Washington  Territory  has  advantages  superior 
to  those  of  Oregon  for  foreign  commerce,  lumbering  and  fishing.  The  main  ad 
vantages  of  Oregon  over  both,  are  in  having  a  large  body  of  level,  rich  prairie 
land,  with  abundant  water,  and  neither  too  much  nor  too  little  timber. 

The  population  of  Oregon  is  largely  composed  of  emigrants  from  Missouri 
and  Illinois.  In  1848,  it  was  estimated  at  about  8,000  souls;  in  1860,  it 
was  52,566. 

Portland,  the  largest  and  most  important  town  in  Oregon,  is  upon  the 
Willamette,  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  15  miles  above  its  entrance  into 
the  Columbia,  and  overland  from  St.  Louis  2,300  miles.  Population  about 
3,000.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  foreign  trade  of  Oregon  is  done  through 
Portland,  excepting  the  southern  part,  and  that  finds  its  seaport  in  Crescent 
City,  of  California.  Portland  lies  120  miles  from  the  ocean,  access  to  it 
being  had  through  the  Columbia,  which  at  low  tide,  in  dry  seasons,  has 
only  9  feet  of  water — scarcely  enough  for  sea-going  vessels.  The  Pacific 
coast  is  destitute  of  good  harbors. 

Oregon  City  is  12  miles  above  Portland,  in  a  narrow  high  walled  valley  on 
the  Willamette,  which  affords  here,  by  its  falls,  great  water  power  for  manu 
facturing  facilities.  Excepting  at  this  place  and  on  the  Columbia  River, 
water  power  is  scarce  in  Oregon,  save  at  points  very  difficult  of  access. 

Astoria  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia,  10  miles  from  its  mouth. 
This  place,  so  long  noted  as  an  important  depot  in  the  fur  trade,  has  now 
but  a  few  dwellings.  In  this  neighborhood  are  forests  of  pine,  which  Have 
long  been  noted  for  their  beauty  and  size.  Lieut.  Wilkes  thus  speaks  of 
them:  "Short  excursions  were  made  by  many  of  us  in  the  vicinity,  and  one 
of  these  was  to  visit  the  primeval  forest  of  pines  in  the  rear  of  Astoria,  a 
sight  well  worth  seeing.  Mr.  Drayton  took  a  camera  lucida  drawing  of  one 
of  the  largest  trees,  which  the  preceding  plate  is  engraved  from.  It  conveys 
a  good  idea  of  the  thick  growth  of  trees,  and  is  quite  characteristic  of  this 
forest.  The  soil  on  which  this  timber  grows  is  rich  and  fertile,  but  the  ob 
stacles  to  the  agriculturist  are  almost  insuperable.  The  largest  tree  of  the 
sketch  was  thirty-nine  feet  six  inches  in  circumference,  eight  feet  above  the 
ground,  and  had  a  bark  eleven  inches  thick.  The  hight  could  not  be  ascer 
tained,  but  it  was  thought  to  be  upward  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and 
the  tree  was  perfectly  straight."  These  trees,  for  at  least  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  are  without  branches.  In  many  places  those  which  have  fallen 
down,  present  barriers  to  the  vision,  even  when  the  traveler  is  on  horseback; 
and  between  the  old  forest  trees  that  are  lying  prostrate,  can  be  seen  the  ten 
der  and  small  twig  beginning  its  journey  to  an  amazing  hight. 

Salem,  the  capital  of  Oregon,  is  on  the  Willamette,  50  miles  above  Oregon 
City.  The  other  towns  on  this  river  and  tributaries  are  Milwaukee,  Butevilk, 
Champoeg,  Fair  field,  Albany,  Corvallis,  Booneville,  Eugene  City,  Clackamas, 
Lafayette,  Parkersburg,  and  Santiane.  On  the  Umpqua  are  Gardner,  Mid- 
dleton,  Scottsburg,  Winchester,  Roseburg,  and  Canonville.  In  Rogue  valley 
are  Jacksonville,  Waldo,  and  Althouse.  On  the  Columbia  the  towns  are  As 
toria,  Rainier,  Gardner,  St.  Helena,  and  the  Dalles,  all  very  small  places. 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY  is  the  extreme  north-western  domain  of  the 
United  States,  and  was  formed  by  act  of  congress,  in  1853,  from  the  north 
part  of  Oregon  Territory.  Its  early  history  is  identified  with  and  partially 
given  in  that  of  Oregon.  Okonogan  and  Spokan,  two  of  the  trading  posts 
of  John  Jacob  Astor,  were  within  its  limits,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Compa 
ny  had  also  numerous  posts,  and  carried  on  extensive  trading  operations  on 
its  soil.  In  1806,  the  British  North-west  Fur  Company  established  a  trad 
ing  post  on  Frazer's  Lake,  in  latitude  54°,  which  was  the  first  settlement  of 
any  kind  made  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  west  of  the  Kocky  Mountains. 
About  the  year  1839,  missions  were  established  by  Protestants  and  Catholics, 
among  the  Indians  of  the  country. 

Down  to  the  period  of  the  administration  of  President  Polk,  the  United 
States  government  claimed  latitude  54°  40'  as  the  northern  boundary.  Then 
the  long  dispute  was  settled  by  fixing  upon  the  49th  parallel,  and  giving  up 
Vancouver's  Island  to  the  British. 

The  Cascade  range  of  mountains  enters  it  from  Oregpn,  and  runs  its  entire 
length  north  and  south.  In  a  general  description,  the  face  of  the  country 
is  mountainous,  and  resembles  Oregon,  excepting  that  the  Blue  Mountain 
range  is  more  scattered  north  of  the  Columbia.  Mount  Olympus,  the  high 
est  peak  of  the  Coast  range,  is  8,197  feet  high:  several  of  those  of  the  Cas 
cade  range  are  clothed  in  perpetual  snow,  among  which  are  Mount  St.  Helen's, 
a  volcanic  peak,  and  Mount  Kainer,  each  estimated  at  about  13,000  feet  in 
altitude.  The  Pacific  coast  is  not  so  abruptly  mountainous  as  that  of  Ore 
gon,  and  can  be  traveled  almost  its  entire  length  on  a  beautiful  sand  beach. 
It  shares  with  Oregon  the  grand  scenery  of  the  Columbia,  which  is  its  prin 
cipal  river,  and  its  main  branches  rise  within  it.  On  the  rivers  are  many 
falls  of  magnitude :  one  of  these,  the  celebrated  Snoqualmie,  in  about  47° 
40'  N.  lat.,  and  121°  30'  W.  long.,  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of  260  feet.  The 
mountain  scenery  of  the  country  is  surpassingly  beautiful. 

"  The  climate  is  similar  to  that  of  Oregon,  with  some  variations  caused  by  differ- 


WASHINGTON    TERRITORY. 

ence  of  latitude  and  local  peculiarities.  It  is,  however,  in  all  parts  of  the  territo 
ry,  much  milder  than  in  the  same  parallels  of  latitudes  east  of  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains. 

The  soil  of  all  the  prairie  lands,  with  the  exception  of  those  directly  around  Puget 
Sound,  is  exceedingly  fertile.  Those  of  the  sound  are  of  a  sandy,  gravelly  nature, 
not  readily  cultivated,  but  producing  enormous  fir  and  cedar  trees.  The  soil  on  the 
mountains  is  generally  very  rich ;  but  the  dense  growth  of  forest  deters  the  emi 
grant  from  attempting  clearings  on  a  large  extent,  as  the  fine,  fertile  plains  and 
prairie  offer  far  greater  inducements.  Fruit  of  various  kinds,  particularly  apples, 
can  be  cultivated  very  readily,  and  in  the  greatest  perfection.  Indian  corn  does 
not  thrive  well,  as  the  seasons  are  not  hot  enough ;  but  wheat,  barley,  oats,  and 
potatoes  yield  the  most  abundant  crops,  of  the  finest  quality.  The  potatoes,  in 
particular,  are  surpassingly  fine.  The  wheat  grown  on  the  Columbia,  called 
Oregon  wheat,  is  known  for  its  superior  excellence. 

Although  the  territory  is  a  very  mountainous  country,  yet  there  are  many  im 
mense  plains  and  prairies;  and,  by  reference  to  the  map,  it  will  be  seen  that  innu 
merable  streams,  like  veins,  permeate  the  whole  region,  and  each  of  them,  from  the 
largest  to  the  smallest,  flows  in  its  course  through  rich  and  fertile  plains,  of  vari 
ous  sizes,  lying  between  the  mountains.  Governor  Stevens,  in  January,  1854, 
writing  of  the  territory,  says  of  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound,  and  the  adjacent  ones 
of  Hood's  Canal,  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  Fuca  Straits,  '  that  their  maritime  advan 
tages  are  very  great,  in  affording  a  series  of  harbors  almost  unequaled  in  the  world 
for  capacity,  safety,  and  facility  of  access,  and  they  are  in  the  immediate  neighbor 
hood  to  what  are  now  the  best  whaling  grounds  of  the  Pacific.  That  portion  of 
Washington  Territory  lying  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and  the  ocean, 
although  equaling,  in  richness  of  soil  and  ease  of  transportation,  the  best  lands  of 
Oregon,  is  heavily  timbered,  and  time  and  labor  are  required  for  clearing  its  for 
ests  and  opening  the  earth  to  the  production  of  its  fruits.  The  great  body  of  the 
country,  on  the  other  hand,  stretching  eastward  from  that  range  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  while  it  contains  many  fertile  valleys  and  much  land  suitable  to  the 
farmer,  is  yet  more  especially  a  grazing  country — one  which,  as  its  population  in 
creases,  promises,  in  its  cattle,  its  horses,  and,  above  all,  its  wool,  to  open  a  vast 
field  to  American  enterprise.  But,  in  the  meantime,  the  staple  of  the  land  must 
continue  to  be  the  one  which  Nature  herself  has  planted,  in  the  inexhaustible  for 
ests  of  fir,  of  spruce,  and  of  cedar.  Either  in  furnishing  manufactured  timber,  or 
spars  of  the  first  description  for  vessels,  Washington  Territory  is  unsurpassed  by 
any  portion  of  the  Pacific  coast.' 

The  internal  improvements  of  Washington  Territory  are  progressing  as  fast  as 
can  be  expected  in  a  new  and  sparsely-populated  country,  situate  so  remote  from 
the  general  government.  In  1853,  Governor  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  the  first  governor  of 
the  territory,  surveyed  a  route  for  a  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  and  discovered  » 
pass  near  the  sources  of  Maria's  River,  suitable  for  a  railroad,  estimated  to  be 
2,500  feet  lower  than  the  south  pass  of  Fremont.  It  is  generally  admitted  that 
Governor  Stevens'  route  is  the  best  one  for  a  railroad  that  has  yet  been  discovered, 
although  the  great,  and,  in  fact  the  principal  objection  urged  against  it  is  that  it  is 
too  far  north,  and,  consequently,  will  not  suit  the  views  nor  accommodate  the  in 
habitants  of  the  more  southern  states  and  California. 

There  is  no  state  in  the  Union  that  has  so  vast  a  communication  by  water  as 
Washington  Territory — the  Columbia  River  on  its  south,  the  Pacific  on  the  west, 
and  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  Hood's  Canal,  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  Puget  Sound  on  the 
north.  There  is  not  a  safer  entrance  from  the  ocean  in  the  world  than  Fuca 
Straits ;  and  the  deep  waters  that  flow  through  the  whole  of  the  inlets,  bays,  and 
sounds,  enable  ships  of  the  largest  class  readily  to  approach  Olympia. 

Gold  and  silver  quartz  has  recently  been  discovered  in  Cascade  range,  near 
Natchez  Pass,  in  immense  deposits. 

Coal  has  been  discovered  of  a  good  quality. 

Olympia  is  the  capital  of  Washington.  Population  of  the  territory,  in 
1863,  12,519. 


NEW  MEXICO  TERRITORY. 


NEW  MEXICO  is  older  than  any  English  settlement  in  North  America.  It 
was  a  Spanish  province  in  the  century  before  the  cavaliers  had  landed  at 
Jamestown,  and  the  Puritans  had  trod  the  snow-clad  rock  of  Plymouth.  In 
1530,  Nuno  de  Guzman,  president  of  Mexico  or  New  Spain,  had  in  his  ser 
vice  an  Indian,  a  native  of  a  country  called  Tejos  or  Texos,  probably  the 
present  Texas,  who  informed  him  that  when  a  boy  he  used  to  accompany  his 
father,  a  merchant,  on  trading  expeditions  to  a  people  in  a  country  in  the  far 
interior,  when  the  latter,  in  exchange  for  handsome  feathers  to  ornament 
their  heads,  obtained  great  quantity  of  gold  and  silver;  that,  on  one  occa 
sion,  he  had  seen  seven  large  towns,  in  which  were  entire  streets  occupied  by 
people  working  in  precious  metals.  That  to  get  there,  it  was  necessary  to 
travel  forty  days  through  a  wilderness,  where  nothing  was  to  be  obtained  ex 
cepting  short  grass,  and  then  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  the  country  by 
keeping  due  north.  Fired  by  these  reports,  Guzman  organized  an  army  of 
400  Spaniards  and  20,000  Indians,  to  penetrate  this  land  of  gold.  He 
started  from  Mexico  and  went  as  far  as  Culiacan,  the  limit  of  his  govern 
ment,  when  the  obstacles  were  such,  in  passing  the  mountains  beyond,  that 
his  people  deserted  in  great  numbers.  Moreover,  he  heard  that  his  personal 
enemy,  Hernando  Cortez,  was  returning  to  Mexico,  loaded  with  titles  and 
favors.  He  gave  up  the  expedition,  and  was  soon  after  thrown  into  prison ; 
and  the  Tejos  Indian  died. 

In  1528,  Pamphilo  Narvaez,  the  unfortunate  rival  of  Hernando  Cortez, 
being  appointed  governor  of  Florida,  set  sail  from  St.  Domingo  with  400 
men  in  five  ships,  for  that  coast.  The  expedition  was  tragic  in  its  results. 
Soon  after  discovering  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  all  had  perished  but 
three ;  some  from  hunger,  some  by  shipwreck,  and  some  by  the  hostility  of 
the  natives. 

"  There  only  survived  Cabeza  de  Yaca,  boatmaster,  Esteva  Dorantes,  an 
Arabian  negro,  and  Castillo  Maldonado.  At  the  end  of  eight  years,  these 
three  men  reached  Mexico,  having  traversed  on  foot  the  American  continent 
from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  They  related  their  adventures, 
declared  that  they  had  met  with  Indian  tribes,  some  of  whom  cultivated 
maize,  while  others  lived  on  fish  and  the  produce  of  the  chase;  that  they 
had  heard  of  large  towns  with  lofty  houses  containing  many  stories,  and  sit 
uated  in  the  same  direction  as  those  spoken  of  by  the  Tejos  Indian." 


704  NEW    MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

Mendosa,  the  viceroy  of  New  Spain,  had  these  three  travelers  brought  be 
fore  him,  and  communicated  the  information  they  gave  him  to  Francisco 
Vasquez  Coronado,  governor  of  the  province  of  Culiacan,  the  chief  town  of 
which,  Culiacan,  was  68  miles  west  of  Mexico.  In  March,  1539,  Coronado 
sent  forward  an  exploring  expedition  under  Father  Marcos,  in  company  with 
two  other  monks,  the  negro  Esteva  above  spoken  of,  and  some  friendly  In 
dians. 

As  he  journeyed  along,  Father  Marcos  met  entire  populations,  who  re 
ceived  him  with  pleasure,  and  presented  him  with  provisions  and  flowers. 
He  passed  into  the  valley  of  the  Sonora.  "  The  inhabitants  of  this  valley 
were  numerous  and  intelligent;  the  women  wore  petticoats  of  tanned  deer 
skin.  Every  morning  the  caciques  ascended  little  eminences,  and,  for  above 
an  hour,  would  indicate  aloud  what  each  was  to  do  during  the  day.  At  their 
religious  ceremonies  they  stuck  arrows  around  their  temples,  resembling  in 
this  the  Zunis  of  the  present  day,  who  sometimes  stick  them  round  their 
altars  and  tombs.  Father  Marcos  found,  on  the  borders  of  this  desert,  other 
Indians,  who  were  greatly  surprised  to  see  him,  for  they  had  not  the  slight 
est  idea  of  the  Christians.  Some  of  them  would  try  to  touch  his  garments, 
and  would  call  him  Soyota,  which  signifies,  Man  come  down  from  heaven. 
Those  Indians  told  him  that,  should  he  continue  his  route,  he  would  soon 
enter  a  very  extensive  plain,  full  of  large  towns,  which  were  inhabited  by 
people  clad  in  cotton,  wearing  gold  rings  and  earrings,  and  making  use  of 
little  blades  of  the  same  metal  to  scrape  the  perspiration  off  their  bodies. 

Although  the  information  given  by  Father  Marcos  is  rather  vague,  and 
though  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  state  precisely  the  route  he  followed,  or  to 
indicate  the  geographical  positions  of  the  countries  he  passed  through,  it  is 
probable  that  the  plain  here  spoken  of  is  that  of  the  Rio  de  Las  Casas 
Grande,  situated  150  miles  east  of  the  Rio  Sonora,  which  is  to  this  day  all 
covered  with  imposing  ruins,  reminding  one  of  handsome  and  populous 
cities." 

After  a  few  days  march,  Father  Marcos  arrived  at  Vacapa,  now  known  as 
Magdalena,  in  Sonora,  near  the  American  line,  a  short  distance  below  Tubac, 
Arizona.  Here  Father  Marcos  remained  to  rest  himself,  among  a  friendly 
people;  but  finding  the  negro,  Esteva,  was  abusing  hospitality,  by  miscon 
ducting  himself  toward  the  native  women,  he  sent  him  forward  to  make  dis 
coveries  and  report.  Four  days  afterward,  the  negro  dispatched  to  Marcos 
an  Indian  messenger,  who  related  wonderful  things  of  a  large  town,  called 
Cibola,  known  in  the  present  day  as  Zuni,  and  westward  of  Santa  Fe.  "Ac 
cording  to  the  fashion  of  his  tribe,  the  messenger's  face,  breast,  and  arms, 
were  painted.  Those  Indians,  whom  the  Spaniards  called  Pintados,  lived  on 
the  frontiers  of  the  seven  towns  forming  the  kingdom  of  Cibola;  their  de 
scendants,  now  called  Papagos  and  Pimas,  still  reside  in  the  same  country, 
which  extends  from  the  valley  of  Santa  Cruz  to  the  Rio  Gila.  Cibola,  the 
first  of  the  seven  towns  and  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  that  name,  was  situ 
ated  thirty  days'  journey  from  Vacapa.  The  Pintados  said  they  often  went 
there,  and  were  employed  in  tilling  the  ground,  and  received  for  their  wages 
turquoises  and  tanned  hides. 

An  Indian  of  this  town  told  Father  Marcos,  that  '  Cibola  was  a  great  city, 
densely  peopled,  with  a  great  number  of  streets  and  squares;  that  in  some 
quarters  there  were  very  large  houses,  with  ten  stories,  where  the  chieftains 
assembled,  at  certain  times  of  the  year,  to  discuss  public  affairs.  The  doors 
and  fronts  of  those  houses  were  adorned  with  turquoises.  The  inhabitants 


NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY.  705 

had  white  skin,  like  the  Spaniards,  and  wore  wide  cotton  tunics  that  reached 
to  their  feet.  These  garments  were  fastened  round  the  neck  by  means  of  a 
button,  and  were  ornamented  at  the  waist  with  a  belt  studded  with  very  fine 
turquoises.  Over  those  tunics  some  wore  excellent  cloaks,  and  others  very 
richly  wrought  cow-hides.'  The  same  Indian  added:  'that  toward  the 
south-east,  there  existed  a  kingdom  called  Marata,  with  large  populations 
and  considerable  towns,  the  houses  of  which  had  several  stories ;  that  these 
peoples  were  continually  at  war  with  the  sovereign  of  the  seven  towns ;  and 
that,  in  the  direction  of  the  south-west,  on  the  Rio  Verde,  was  another  king 
dom,  called  Totonteac,  which  was  as  wealthy  as  it  was  densely  peopled,  and 
whose  inhabitants  were  dressed  in  fine  cloth.'  Although  these  narratives 
were  exaggerated,  it  is  not  less  a  fact  that  all  those  countries  were  thickly 
peopled,  intersected  with  roads,  and  studded  with  towns." 

Having  rested  himself,  Father  Marcos  pushed  forward  to  rejoin  his  negro, 
and  was  everywhere  welcomed  by  the  natives  until  he  had  reached,  on  the 
9th  of  May,  the  last  desert  that  separated  him  from  Cibola.  He  there  had 
stopped  to  dine  at  a  farm  house,  when  he  was  astonished  by  the  entrance  of 
Esteva's  companions,  covered  with  perspiration,  faint  and  trembling  from 
fatigue  and  fear.  He  reported  that  Esteva  had  been  imprisoned,  and  then 
killed  by  the  people  of  Cibola,  together  with  several  of  his  Indian  followers. 
The  negro,  probably,  had  been  guilty  of  some  misconduct.  Marcos,  in  con 
sternation,  took  the  back  track  to  Culiacan. 

"Captain-General  Vasquez  Coronado,  encouraged  by  the  accounts  given  by 
Father  Marcos,  and  hoping  to  discover  new  territories,  at  once  organized  in  New 
Spain  a  little  army,  which  assembled  at  Compostella,  and  on  the  day  following 
Easter,  1540,  he  put  himself  at  the  head  of  his  troops,  composed  of  150  horsemen, 
200  archers,  and  800  Indians.  Having  reached  Culiacan,  the  army  halted  to  take 
rest  At  the  end  of  a  fortnight,  Coronado  moved  forward,  accompanied  by  fiftv 
horsemen,  a  few  foot  soldiers,  and  his  best  friends,  among  whom  was  Father  Mar 
cos.  The  command  of  the  remainder  of  the  troops  was  confided  to  Don  Tristan 
d' Arellano,  with  orders  to  leave  fifteen  days  after,  and  to  follow  the  same  route  as 
the  captain-general. 

After  a  month  of  fatigue  and  of  privations  of  all  kinds,  Vasquez  Coronado  ar 
rived  at  Chichilticale.  This  name,  which  signifies  Red  Town,  was  given  to  this 
locality  because  a  large  house  of  that  color  was  to  be  seen  there,  which  was  in 
habited  by  an  entire  tribe  that  came  from  Cibola,  where  the  last  desert  begins.  At 
this  place  the  Spaniards  lost  several  horses,  and  even  some  men,  from  want  of  food. 
Nevertheless,  encouraged  by  their  chief,  they  continued  their  march,  and,  a  fort 
night  after  they  had  left  Chichilticale,  they  arrived  within  twenty-six  miles  of  Ci 
bola.  They  saw  for  the  first  time  the  natives  of  this  singular  kingdom ;  but  the 
latter  immediately  took  to  flight,  spreading  the  alarm  throughout  the  country  by 
means  of  great  fires  which  they  kindled  on  the  high  mountains — a  custom  in  use 
to  this  day  among  the  tribes  of  New  Mexico. 

Next  day,  Coronado  came  within  sight  of  Cibola;  the  inhabitants  of  the  provincft 
had  all  assembled  and  awaited  the  Spaniards  with  a  steady  attitude.  Far  from 
accepting  the  proposals  of  peace  which  were  offered  to  them,  they  threatened  the 


The  remainder  of  the  troops,  under  d' Arellano,  after  a  march  of  975  miles  by 
a  different  route,  in  which  they  crossed  many  rivers  flowing  into  the  California 
Gulf,  rejoined  the  main  army  at  Cibola.  On  their  way  they  founded  the  town  of 
San  Hieronymo,  and  in  that  vicinity  found  Indian  agricultural  tribes  who  tamed 
eagles,  as  is  yet  the  custom  among  some  tribes  of  New  Mexico. 

Coronado  now  sent  Alvarado,  his  lieutenant,  to  conquer  the  province  of  Tiguex, 
on  the  Rio  Grande,  which  he  subdued  after  a  campaign  of  fifty  days.  "It  coa* 
45 


NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

tained  twelve  towns  governed  by  a  council  of  old  men.  The  whole  community 
helped  to  construct  each  house ;  the  women  made  the  mortar  and  built  up  the  walls, 
and  the  men  brought  the  wood  and  prepared  the  timbers.  Underneath  the  houses 
and  the  court-yards  were  subterraneous  stoves,  or  drying-places,  paved  with  large 
polished  flagstones.  In  the  middle  was  a  furnace  on  which  they  threw,  from  time 
to  time,  a  handful  of  thyme,  which  was  sufficient  to  keep  up  an  intense  heat  there, 
so  that  one  felt  as  if  in  a  bath.  The  men  spent  a  considerable  part  of  their  time 
in  those  places;  but  the  women  could  not  enter  there,  except  to  carry  food  to  their 
husbands  or  sons.  The  men  spun,  wove,  and  attended  to  the  tillage  of  their 
grounds ;  the  women  occupied  themselves  with  the  care  of  their  children  and  house 
hold  affairs;  they  were  the  mistresses  of  the  house  and  kept  it  remarkably  clean. 
In  the  large  houses,  each  family  had  several  rooms;  one  served  as  a  sleeping-room, 
another  as  a  kitchen,  and  a  third  for  the  purpose  of  grinding  wheat.  In  the  latter 
was  an  oven  and  three  large  stones ;  three  women  would  seat  themselves  before 
these  stones ;  the  first  would  crush  the  grain,  the  second  bruise  it,  and  the  third 
pulverize  it  completely.  While  they  were  thus  employed,  a  man,  seated  at  the 
door,  played  on  a  kind  of  bagpipes,  and  the  women  worked  to  measure,  all  three 
pinging  together,  and  marking  the  rhythm  by  striking  with  their  tools  the  wheat 
they  were  grinding." 

The  young  girls  went  wholly  naked  during  even  the  most  severe  weather,  and 
were  not  allowed  to  cover  themselves  until  they  were  married.  The  object  of  this 
was  that  their  shame  might  be  exposed  in  case  they  misbehaved — a  kind  of  a  guard 
to  chastity.  "  The  young  people  could  only  enter  the  married  state  with  the  per 
mission  of  the  old  men  who  governed  the  town.  The  young  man  had  then  to  spin 
and  weave  a  mantle ;  when  completed,  the  girl  who  was  destined  to  become  his 
bride  was  brought  to  him ;  he  wrapped  the  mantle  round  her  shoulders  and  she 
thus  became  his  wife. 

From  Tiguex,  the  Spaniards  went  to  Cicuye — now  called  Pecos — which  they  also 
subdued.  From  thence,  Coronado  started  for  Quivira,  with  a  few  men  chosen 
among  his  best  soldiers,  postponing,  until  the  following  spring,  the  conquest  of  the 
whole  province.  In  1542,  the  Spaniards  found  themselves  masters  of  almost  all 
New  Mexico,  whose  center  was  formed  by  the  province  of  Tiguex,  around  which 
were  grouped  seventy-one  towns  distributed  among  fourteen  provinces,  viz  :  Cibola, 
which  contained  seven  towns;  Tucayan,  seven  ;  Acueo,  one;  Tiguex,  twelve ;  Cu- 
tahaco,  eight;  Quivix,  seven;  the  Snowy  Mountains,  seven;  Ximena,  three ;  Cicuye, 
one;  Hemes,  seven  ;  Aquas  Calientes,  three ;  Yuque-yunque,  six;  Rraba,  one,  and 
Chia,  one.  Besides  these  seventy-one  towns,  there  were  many  others  scattered 
outside  this  circle;  as  also  several  tribes  living  in  tents." 

In  April,  1543,  Coronado  returned  with  his  followers  to  Culiacan.  "Juan  de 
Padilla,  of  the  order  of  Saint  Francis,  preferred  remaining  at  Quivira  to  preach  the 
gospel  to  the  Indians,  and  became  a  martyr.  Brother  Luis,  of  the  same  order, 
went  to  Cicuye,  but  was  never  more  heard  of.  Such  was  the  end  of  this  expedi 
tion,  which,  instead  of  having  a  favorable  result  for  the  Spaniards,  only  tended  to 
arouse  against  them  the  profound  antipathy  of  the  natives,  who  had  been  very  ill- 
treated  by  the  conquerors. 

In  1581,  a  band  of  adventurers,  commanded  by  Francisco  de  Leyva  Bonillo,  took 
possession  of  part  of  the  province  of  Tiguex,  and  finding  its  productions,  riches, 
and  inhabitants  very  like  those  of  Mexico,  they  called  it  New  Mexico."* 

u  In  the  year  1595,  Don  Juan  de  Onate  de  Zacatecas,  at  the  head  of  a  band  of 
two  hundred  soldiers,  established  the  first  legal  colony  in  the  province,  over  which 
he  was  established  as  governor.  He  took  with  him  a  number  of  Catholic  priests 
to  establish  missions  among  the  Indians,  with  power  sufficient  to  promulgate  the 
gospel  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  administer  baptism  by  the  force  of  arms. 

The  colony  progressed  rapidly;  settlements  extended  in  every  quarter;  and,  as 
tradition  relates,  many  valuable  mines  were  discovered  and  worked.  The  poor  In- 

*  Abridged  from  Domenech's  Seven  Years'  Residence  in  the  Deserts  of  North  America. 
The  Abbe  Domenech  derived  this  history  mainly  from  the  "  Narrative  of  the  Expedition  to 
Cibola  ;  by  Pedro  de  Castaneda  Nagera."  He  was  in  Coronado's  army,  and  this  narrative 
was  published  in  Paris  in  1837. 


NEW    MEXICO    TERRITORY.  707 

dians  were  enslaved,  and,  under  the  lash,  were  forced  to  most  laborious  tasks  in 
the  mines,  until  goaded  to  desperation.  In  the  summer  of  1680,  a  general  insur 
rection  of  all  the  tribes  and  Pueblos  took  place  throughout  the  province.  General 
hostilities  having  commenced,  and  a  large,  number  of  Spaniards  massacred  all  over 
the  province,  the  Indians  laid  siege  to  the  capital,  Santa  Fe,  which  the  governor 
was  obliged  to  evacuate,  and  retreat  south  three  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  where 
the  refugees  then  founded  the  town  of  El  Paso  del  Norte.  For  ten  years  the  coun 
try  remained  in  possession  of  the  Indians,  when  it  was  reconquered  by  the  Span 
iards.  In  1698, 'the  Indians  rose,  but  the  insurrection  was  soon  quelled.  After 
this  they  were  treated  with  more  humanity,  each  pueblo  being  allowed  a  league  or 
two  of  land,  and  permitted  to  govern  themselves.  Their  rancorous  hatred  for  their 
conquerors,  however,  never  entirely  subsided  ;  yet  no  further  outbreak  occurred 
until  1837.  In  that  year  a  revolution  took  place,  by  which  the  government  of  the 
country  was  completely  overthrown,  and  most  atrocious  barbarities  committed  by 
the  insurgents,  including  the  Pueblo  Indians.  The  governor,  Perez,  was  savagely 
put  to  death — his  head  cut  off  and  used  as  a  football  by  the  insurgents  in  their 
camp.  The  ex-governor,  Abrew,  was  butchered  in  a  more  barbarous  manner.  Hia 
hands  were  cut  off;  his  tongue  and  eyes  were  pulled  out ;  his  enemies,  at  the  same 
time,  taunting  him  with  opprobrious  epithets.  The  next  season  Mexican  authority 
was  again  established  over  the  province." 

The  first  American  who  ever  crossed  the  desert  plains,  intervening  between 
New  Mexico  and  the  settlements  on  the  Mississippi  River,  was  one  James 
Pursley.  While  wandering  over  the  wild  and  then  unexplored  regions  west 
of  the  Mississippi,  he  fell  in  with  some  Indians  near  the  head-waters  of  the 
Platte  River,  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  whom  he  accompanied,  in  1805,  to 
Santa  Fe,  where  he  remained  several  years.  In  1804,  a  merchant  of  Kas- 
kaskia,  named  Morrison,  having  heard  by  the  trappers,  through  the  Indians, 
of  this  isolated  province,  dispatched  a  French  Creole,  named  La  Lande,  with 
some  goods,  up  the  Platte,  with  directions  to  make  his  way  to  Santa  Fe.  La 
Lande  never  returned  to  his  employer,  to  account  for  the  proceeds  of  his 
adventure,  but  settled  in  Santa  Fe,  grew  rich  by  trading,  and  died  some  20 
years  after.  In  1806,  the  celebrated  Captain  Pike  visited  this  country:  his 
exciting  descriptions,  as  given  in  his  narrative,  roused  the  western  country, 
and  eventually  led  to  the  overland  trade,  by  caravans,  with  western  Missouri, 
known  as  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  which  finally  grew  into  an  immense  business, 
employing  an  army  of  wagoners,  and  amounting  in  annual  value  to  four  or 
five  millions  of  dollars.  Santa  Fe  was  not  entirely  the  consumer  of  these 
importations,  but  rather  the  depot  from  whence  they  were  distributed  to 
Chihuahua  and  other  portions  of  northern  Mexico. 

When  Texas  achieved  her  independence  she  included  New  Mexico  within 
the  statutory  limits  of  the  republic,  although  Santa  Fe  had  never  been  con 
quered  or  settled  by  Texans.  A  desert  or  uninhabited  country  of  600  miles 
intervened  between  Austin,  the  Texan  capital,  and  Santa  Fe.  The  Texans 
wished  to  divert  the  overland  trade  which  was  going  on  between  the  Mis- 
sourians  and  the  New  Mexicans  to  their  country,  and  their  secretary  of  war 
proposed,  as  a  preparatory  step,  the  construction  of  a  military  road  from 
Austin  to  Santa  Fe.  In  the  spring  of  1841,  extensive  preparations  were 
made  in  Texas  for  an  armed  visit  to  Santa  Fe,  the  objects  being  to  induce 
the  New  Mexicans  to  acknowledge  the  right  of  Texas  to  complete  jurisdic 
tion  over  them,  and  to  open  a  trade  with  the  people.  On  the  20th  of  June. 
270  armed  Texans,  under  Gen.  Hugh  M'Leod,  started  from  Brushy  creek, 
near  Austin,  en  route  for  Santa  Fe.  This  expedition,  known  as  the  "  Santa 
Fe  expedition,"  was  unfortunate  in  its  results.  The  upshot  of  it  was,  that 
they  encountered  great  hardships  on  the  deserts,  and  were  finally,  when  in  a 
half  starved  condition,  near  San  Miguel,  induced  by  treachery  to  surrender 


708  NEW   MEXICO    TERRITORY. 

to  the  Mexicans  under  Armijo,  governor  of  New  Mexico.  Some  few  were 
shot,  but  the  great  body  of  them,  to  the  number  of  187,  were  sent  to  Mexico, 
and  thrown  into  the  prisons  of  Santiago,  Puebla  and  Perote. 

In  1846,  at  the  commencement  of  the  war  with  Mexico,  the  army  of  the 
west  was  organized,  to  conquer  New  Mexico  and  California.  This  army  was 
composed  of  a  mounted  regiment  of  Missourians,  and  a  battalion  each  of 
infantry,  dragoons,  and  light  artillery.  After  a  fifty  days'  march  from  Fort 
Leavenworth,  of  nearly  900  miles,  they  entered  Santa  Fe  on  the  18th  of 
August. 

"On  their  arrival,  the  American  commander,  General  Kearney,  in  accordance 
with  his  directions,  proclaimed  himself  governor  of  New  Mexico.  'You  are  now,' 
said  he,  'American  citizens;  you  no  longer  owe  allegiance  to  the  Mexican  govern 
ment.'  The  principal  men  then  took  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  United  States, 
and  whoever  was  false  to  this  allegiance,  the  people  were  told,  would  be  punished 
as  traitors.  It  was  questioned  whether  the  administration  had  not  transcended 
its  powers  in  thus  annexing  a  territory  to  the  Union  without  the  permission  of  con 
gress. 

General  Kearney,  having  appointed  Charles  Bent  governor  of  New  Mexico,  on 
the  25th  of  September,  took  a  small  force  with  him  and  proceeded  overland  to  Cal 
ifornia.  Col.  Price  arrived  soon  after  at  Santa  Fe  with  recruits.  The  Navajo  In 
dians  having  commenced  hostilities  against  the  New  Mexicans,  '  new  inhabitants 
of  the  United  States,'  Col.  Doniphan,  who  had  been  left  in  command,  set  out  west 
ward  with  the  Missouri  regiment  to  make  peace  with  them.  Winter  was  fast  ap 
proaching,  and  after  suffering  incredible  hardships  in  crossing  the  mountains, 
poorly  clad  aa  they  were,  among  snows  and  mountain  storms,  they  finally 
accomplished  their  object.  Capt.  Reid,  of  one  of  the  divisions  of  thirty  men,  vol 
unteered  to  accompany  Sandoval,  a  Navajo  chief,  five  days  through  the  mountain 
hights,  to  a  grand  gathering  of  the  men  and  women  of  the  tribe.  They  were  com 
pletely  in  the  power  of  the"  Indians,  but  they  won  their  hearts  by  their  gayety  and 
confidence.  Most  of  them  had  never  seen  a  white  man.  Reid  and  his  compan 
ions  joined  the  dance,  sung  their  country's  songs,  and,  what  pleased  the  Navajoes 
most,  interchanged  with  them  their  costume.  On  the  22d  of  November,  a  treaty 
was  made  in  form,  by  which  the  three  parties,  Americans,  New  Mexicans  and  Na 
vajoes,  agreed  to  live  in  perpetual  peace. 

By  the  middle  of  December,  Col.  Doniphan,  leaving  Col.  Price  in  command  at 
Santa  Fe,  commenced  his  march  with  his  regiment  south  to  Chihuahua,  and  on  hia 
route  met  and  defeated  superior  forces  of  the  enemy  at  Bracito,  and  at  the  Sacra 
mento  Pass. 

In  the  meantime,  the  New  Mexicans  secretly  conspired  to  throw  off  the  yoke.  Sim 
ultaneously,  on  the  19th  of  January,  in  the  valley  of  Taos,  massacres  occurred  at 
Fernandez,  when  were  cruelly  murdered  Governor  Bent,  Sheriff  Lee,  and  four 
others;  at  Arroyo  Hondo,  five  Americans  were  killed,  and  a  few  others  in  the 
vicinity.  Col.  Price,  on  receiving  the  intelligence,  marched  from  Santa  Fe,  met 
and  defeated  the  insurrectionists  in  several  engagements  in  the  valley,  with  a  loss 
of  about  three  hundred.  The  Americans  lost  in  killed  and  wounded  about  sixty. 
Fifteen  of  the  insurrectionists  were  executed." 

New  Mexico  was  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaties  with  Mexico  of  1848 
and  of  1854.  The  cession  of  1854  included  that  narrow  strip  of  territory  south 
of  the  Gila  and  west  of  the  Rio  Grande,  known  as  the  "Gadsden  Purchase,"  or 
Arizona.  In  1850,  a  territorial  government  was  established  over  New  Mexico. 


NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY.  7Q9 

The  present  American  territory  of  New  Mexico  comprises  but  a  small 
part  of  the  original  Spanish  province  of  that  name.  This  territory,  con 
sidered  as  a  whole,  "  is  .a  region  of  high  table  lands,  crossed  by  moun 
tain  ranges,  and  barren  to  the  last  degree."  It  has  scarce  a  single  wa 
ter  communication  of  consequence  with  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  famous 


The  Giant  Caches. 

Rio  Grande  is  shallow,  full  of  sand  bars,  and  at  times  almost  too  low  to  float 
an  Indian  canoe.  Many  of  the  streams  run  in  deep,  frightful  chasms,  down 
which  it  is  impossible,  for  days  of  travel,  to  penetrate.  There  is  not  enough 
•fertile  land  ever  to  support  any  but  a  slight  agricultural  population,  and  very 
little  timber  excepting  the  mesquit — a  thorny,  disagreeable  tree,  that  does 
most  of  its  growing  underground:  its  roots  being  multitudinous,  twisting 
and  burrowing  in  all  directions,  and  of  no  use  but  for  fuel.  Beside  this  is 
the  cactus,  in  many  varieties,  that  shown  in  the  engraving  being  confined 
within  narrow  lines  of  latitude.  Mescal,  a  kind  of  whisky,  of  a  most  pun 
gent,  acrid  flavor,  is  made  from  some  varieties  of  this  plant. 

"  The  climate  of  New  Mexico  is  unsurpassingly  pure  and  healthy.  A  sultry  day 
is  very  rare.  The  summer  nights  are  cool  and  pleasant.  The  winters  are  lon<r, 
but  uniform,  and  the  atmosphere  of  an  extraordinary  dryness;  and  there  is  but 
little  rain,  except  from  July  to  October.  The  general  range  of  the  thermometer  is 
from  10  deg.  to  75  deg.  above  Fahrenheit  Fevers  are  uncommon,  and  instances 
of  remarkable  longevity  are  frequent.  Persons  withered  almost  to  mummies  are 
met  with  occasionally,  whose  extraordinary  age  is  shown  by  their  recollection  or' 
certain  notable  events,  which  have  taken  place  in  times  far  remote. 

Agriculture  is  in  a  very  primitive  and  unimproved  state,  the  hoe  being  alon* 
used  by  a  greater  part  of  the  peasantry.  Wheat  and  Indian  corn  are  the  princi 
pal  staples;  cotton,  flax,  and  tobacco,  although  indigenous,  are  not  cultivated  :  the 
soil  is  finely  adapted  to  the  Irish  potato.  The  most  important  natural  product  of 
the  soil  is  its  pasturage.  Most  of  the  high  table  plains  afford  the  finest  grazing, 
while,  for  want  of  water,  they  are  utterly  useless  for  other  purposes.  That  scanty 
moisture  which  suffices  to  bring  forth  the  natural  vegetation,  is  insufficient  for  agri- 


710  NEW    MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

cultural  productions,  without  the  aid  of  irrigation.  The  high  prairie**  of  all  this 
region,  differ  greatly  from  those  of  our  border  in  the  general  diameter  of  their 
vegetation.  They  are  remarkably  destitute  of  the  gay  flowering  plants  for  which 
the  former  are  so  celebrated,  being  mostly  clothed  with  different  species  of  a  highly 
nutritious  grass  called  grama,  which  is  of  a  very  short  and  curly  quality.  The 
highlands,  upon  which  alone  this  sort  of  grass  is  produced,  being  seldom  verdant 
until  after  the  rainy  season  sets  in,  the  grama  is  only  in  perfection  from  August  to 
October.  But  being  rarely  nipped  by  the  frost  until  the  rains  are  over,  it  cures 
upon  the  ground  and  remains  excellent  hay — equal,  if  not  superior,  to  that  which 
is  cut  and  stacked  from  our  western  prairies.  Although  the  winters  are  rigorous, 
the  feeding  of  stock  is  almost  entirely  unknown  in  New  Mexico;  nevertheless,  the 
extensive  herds  of  the  country,  not  only  of  cattle  and  sheep,  but  of  mules  and 
horses,  generally  maintain  themselves  in  excellent  condition  upon  the  dry  pastur 
age  alone  through  the  cold  season,  and  until  the  rains  start  up  the  green  grass 
again  the  following  summer. 

"The  mechanic  arts  are  very  rude,  even  sawed  lumber  being  absolutely  unknown. 
The  New  Mexicans  are  celebrated  for  the  manufacture  of  a  beautiful  serape  or 
blanket,  which  is  woven  into  gaudy,  rainbow-like  hues.  Their  domestic  goods  are 
nearly  all  wool,  the  manufacture  of  which  is  greatly  embarrassed  for  the  want  of 
adequate  machinery. 

The  system  of  Peon  slavery  existed  under  the  Mexican  dominion.  By  the  local 
laws,  a  debtor  was  imprisoned  for  debt  until  it  was  paid ;  or,  if  the  creditor  chose, 
he  took  the  debtor  as  a  servant  to  work  out  his  claim.  This  system  operated  with 
a  terrible  severity  upon  the  unfortunate  poor,  who,  although  they  worked  for  fixed 
wages,  received  so  small  a  compensation,  that  if  the  debt  was  of  any  amount,  it 
compelled  them  to  a  perpetual  servitude,  as  he  received  barely  sufficient  for  food 
and  clothing."' 

Evidences  of  volcanic  action  abound  in  various  parts  of  New  Mexico,  and 
the  country  is  rich  in  gold,  silver,  and  copper.  Anthracite  coal  of  an  excel 
lent  quality  is  found  near  Santa  Fe.  Through  its  mineral  wealth  it  may 
eventually  have  a  considerable  population;  but  most  of  the  food  to  support 
it  will  require  to  be  transported  thither  from  the  agricultural  districts  of  the 
Mississippi  valley. 

The  population  of  New  Mexico  has  been  nearly  stationary  for  a  long 
period.  In  1860,  it  was  ascertained  to  be  about  93,000,  viz:  42,000  Indians, 
about  half  civilized;  41,000  peons;  and  7,300  white  native  citizens,  mostly 
of  Mexican  blood.  The  number  of  Americans  in  the  whole  country,  is  less 
than  is  contained  in  ordinary  agricultural  townships  with  us. 

SANTA  FE,  the  capital  of  New  Mexico,  sometimes  written  Santa  Fe  de 
San  Francisco — i.  e.  Holy  Faith  of  St.  Francis — is  the  only  town  of  import 
ance.  It  is,  by  air  lines,  660  miles  west  of  the  Arkansas  frontier,  450  south 
easterly  from  Salt  Lake  City,  900  east-south-east  of  San  Francisco,  and  260 
north  of  El  Paso,  the  nearest  point  in  Mexico.  "  It  is  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  Indian  pueblo,  some  fifteen  miles  east  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  at  the 
base  of  a  snow-clad  mountain,  and  contains  a  little  over  three  thousand  souls, 
and  with  its  corporate  surrounding  villages  about  double  that  number.  The 
town  is  irregularly  laid  out,  and  is  a  wretched  collection  of  mud  houses, 
much  scattered  with  intervening  corn-fields.  The  only  attempt  at  architec 
tural  compactness,  consists  of  four  tiers  of  buildings  around  the  public 
square,  comprising  the  governor's  house,  the  custom  house,  barracks,  etc." 

In  the  center  of  the  public  square  "all  the  neighboring  rancheros  assemble  to 
sell  the  produce  of  their  farms  and  industry.  All  day  Jong  files  of  donkeys  may 
be  seen  arriving  there,  laden  with  barrels  of  Taos  whisky,  bales  of  goods,  forage, 
wood,  earthen  jars,  melons,  grapes,  red  and  green  pimentos,  onions,  pasteques,  eggs, 


NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

cheese,  tobacco,  and  pinones  (fruit  of  the  pine),  Pinvs  monopJiylla.  These  pinones 
are  generally  baked  in  the  oven,  or  roasted  on  cinders,  as  a  means  of  preserving 
them  better.  Besides  those  provisions,  the  Santa  Fe  market  also  affords  a  great 
variety -of  bread  and  meat.  The  Indians  of  the  pueblos,  too,  carry  quantities  of 
fish  there,  either  fresh  .or  dried  in  the  sun.  In  the  evening,  after  the  Aitgeltts,  the 
square  is  filled  with  loungers,  who  chat,  play,  laugh,  and  smoke,  until  the  hour  for  the 
fandango;  for  be  it  known,  the  young  people  of  Mexico  could  not  live  if  they  did 
not  dance  at  least  365  fandangos  every  year.  At  Santa  Fe,  as  in  Texas,  arid  in 
all  the  provinces  of  Mexico,  the  women  go  to  the  fandangos,  with  their  rebozo 
(mantilla),  and  arrayed  in  a  light  cool  costume  appropriate  to  the  occasion ;  seated 
round  the  garden,  or  hall,  where  the  dance  is  to  take  place,  they  smoke  cigarettes 
and  chat  very  loudly  while  awaiting  the  cavaliers'  invitation." 


In  Spanish  the  term  pueblo  means  the  people  and  their  towns;  and  in 

New  Mexico  it  is  applied  to  the  Christianized  Indians  and  to  their  villages. 

"  When  the  country  was  first  discovered,  these  Indians  lived  in  comfortable 

houses,  and  cultivated  the  soil.     Indeed,  now  they  are  the  best  horticulturists  in 

New  Mexico,  furnishing  most 
of  the  fruits  and  vegetables  to 
be  found  in  the  markets.  They 
also  cultivate  the  grape,  and 
have  extensive  herds  of  cattle, 
horses,  etc.  They  are  remark 
able  for  sobriety,  honesty,  mor 
ality,  and  industry,  and  are 
much  braver  than  the  other 
classes  of  New  Mexicans,  and  in 
the  war  with  Mexico,  fought 
with  desperation  compared  to 
those  in  the  south.  At  the  timo 
of  the  conquest,  they  must  have 
been  a  very  powerful  people, 
numbering  near  one  hundred 
villages,  as  their  ruins  would 

The  population  of  their  villages  or  pueblos,  average  about  five  hundred 

They  profess 


ZUNI. 

An  Indian  Pueblo  or  Town. 


indicate.  f.t  „          + 

souls.     They  assert  that  they  are  the  descendants  of  Montezuma. 

the  Catholic  faith,  but  this,  doubtless,  reaches  no  farther  than  understanding  its 

formalities,  and  at  the  same  time,  they  all  worship  the  sun. 

They  were  only  nominally  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Mexican  government, 
many  features  of  their  ancient  customs,  in  both  government  and  religion,  being 
retained.  Each  pueblo  was  under  the  control  of  a  cacique  chosen  by  themselves, 
who,  with  his  council,  had  charge  of  the  interior  police  of  the  village.  One  of  their 
regulations  was  to  appoint  a  secret  watch  to  suppress  vice  and  disorder  of  every 
description,  and  especially  to  keep  an  eye  over  the  young  men  and  women  of  the 
village. 

Their  villages  are  built  with  adobes,  and  with  great  regularity ;  sometimes  they 
have  but  one  large  house,  with  several  stories,  each  story  divided  into  apartments, 
in  which  the  whole  village  reside.  Instead  of  doors  in  front,  they  use  trap-doors 
in  the  roofs  of  their  houses,  to  which  they  mount  up  on  a  ladder,  which  is  drawn 
up  at  night  for  greater  security.  Their  dress  consists  of  moccasins,  short  breeches, 
and  woolen  jackets  or  blankets;  they  generally  wear  their  hair  long.  Bows  and 
arrows  and  a  lance,  and  sometimes  a  gun,  constitute  their  weapons.  They  manu 
facture  blankets,  as  well  as  other  woolen  stuffs,  crockery  ware,  and  coarse  pottery. 
The  dress  of  many  is  like  the  Mexican;  but  the  majority  retain  their  aboriginal 
costume. 

Among  the  villages  of  the  Pueblos  Indians,  was  that  of  the  Pecos  tribe,  twenty- 
five  miles  east  of  Santa  Fe,  which  gradually  dwindled  away  under  the  inroads  of 
the  Comanches  and  other  causes,  until  about  the  year  1838,  when  having  been  re 
duced  to  only  about  a  dozen  souls  of  all  ages,  they  abandoned  the  place. 


712  NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

Many  tales  are  told  of  the  singular  habits  of  this  ill-fated  tribe,  which  must,  no 
doubt,  have  tended  to  hasten  its  utter  annihilation.  A  tradition  was  prevalent 
among  them  that  Montezuma  had  kindled  a  holy  fire,  and  enjoined  their  ancestors 
not  to  suffer  it  to  be  extinguished  until  he  should  return  to  deliver  his  people  from 
the  yoke  of  the  Spaniards.  In  pursuance  of  these  commands,  a  constant  watch 
had  been  maintained  for  ages  to  prevent  the  fire  from  going  out;  and,  as  tradition 
further  informed  them,  that  Montezuma  would  appear  with  the  sun,  the  deluded 
Indians  were  to  be  seen  every  clear  morning  upon  the  terraced  roofs  of  their 
houses,  attentively  watching  the  appearance  of  the  'king  of  light,'  in  hopes  of 
seeing  him  accompanied  by  their  immortal  sovereign.  This  consecrated  fire  was 
down  in  a  subterranean  vault,  where  it  was  kept  silently  smouldering  under  a  cov 
ering  of  ashes,  in  the  basin  of  a  small  altar.  Some  say  that  they  never  lost  hope 
in  the  final  coming  of  Montezuma  until,  by  some  accident  or  other,  or  a  lack  of  a 
sufficiency  of  warriors  to  watch  it,  the  fire  became  extinguished ;  and  that  it  was 
this  catastrophe  that  induced  them  to  abandon  their  village.  No  other  pueblo  ap 
pears  to  have  adopted  this  extraordinary  superstition ;  like  Pecos,  however,  they 
have  all  held  Montezuma  to  be  their  perpetual  sovereign.  It  would  likewise  appear 
that  they  all  worship  the  sun ;  for  it  is  asserted  to  be  their  regular  practice  to  turn 
the  face  toward  the  east  at  sunrise. 

The  wild  tribes  who  inhabit  or  extend  their  incursions  into  New  Mexico,  are 
the  Navajoes,  the  Apaches,  the  Yutas,  the  Kiawas,  and  the  Comanches.  The 
Navajoes  are  estimated  at  about  ten  thousand,  and  reside  in  the  main  range  of  the 
Cordilleras,  two  hundred  miles  west  of  Santa  Fe,  on  the  Rio  Colorado,  near  the 
region  from  whence  historians  say  the  Aztecs  emigrated  to  Mexico.  They  are  sup 
posed  to  be  the  remnants  of  that  justly  celebrated  nation  of  antiquity  who  re 
mained  in  the  north.  Although  living  in  rude  wigwams,  they  excel  all  Indian  na 
tions  in  their  manufactures.  They  are  still  distinguished  for  some  exquisite  styles 
of  cotton  textures,  and  display  considerable  ingenuity  in  embroidering  with  feath 
ers  the  skins  of  animals.  The  serape  Navajo  (Xavajo  blanket)  is  of  so  dense  a 
texture  as  to  be  frequently  waterproof,  and  some  of  the  finer  qualities  bring  sixty 
dollars  each,  among  the  Mexicans.  Notwithstanding  their  wandering  habits,  they 
cultivate  the  different  grains  and  vegetables,  and  possess  extensive  and  superior 
herds  of  horses,  mules,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats. 

The  Apaches  are  mainly  west  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  are  the  most  powerful 
and  vagrant  of  the  Indian  tribes  of  northern  Mexico,  and  number,  it  is  estimated, 
fifteen  thousand  souls,  of  whom  two  thousand  are  warriors.  They  cultivate  and 
manufacture  nothing,  and  appear  to  depend  entirely  upon  pillage  for  subsistence. 
The  depredations  of  the  Apaches  have  been  of  so  long  a  duration  that  beyond 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  towns,  the  whole  country,  from  New  Mexico  to  the 
borders  of  Durango,  is  almost  entirely  depopulated." 

The  population  of  New  Mexico,  other  than  the  savage  tribes,  is  mostly 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  its  tribu 
taries.  It  is  almost  exclusively  confined  to  towns  and  villages,  the  suburbs 
of  which  are  generally  farms,  a  mode  of  living  indispensable  for  protection 
against  the  savages. 

Taos,  north  of  Santa  Fe,  is  a  beautiful  valley  of  nine  miles  in  length,  and 
includes  several  villages  and  settlements.  The  valley  grows  wheat  of  an  ex 
cellent  quality,  produced  on  irrigated  land. 

La  Gran  Quivira,  about  100  miles  south  of  Santa  Fe,  are  ruins  of  an 
nncient  town,  which  was  supposed  to  have  been  reared  for  mining  purposes. 
The  style  of  architecture  is  superior  to  anything  at  present  in  New  Mexico. 
T<>  be  seen  are  the  remains  of  Catholic  churches,  and  aqueducts  leading  to 
tlie  mountains,  eight  or  ten  miles  distant.  Tradition  says,  that,  in  the  gen- 
or;  1  massacre  of  1680,  every  soul  save  one  perished. 

Kl  Placer,  27  miles  south  of  Santa  Fe,  is  an  important  mine,  from  which, 
since  its  discovery  in  1828,  half  a  million  of  gold  has  been  taken  out. 


NEW   MEXICO  TERRITORY. 

Albuquerque  is  in  the  most  fertile  locality  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  although 
not  as  important  a  place  as  Santa  Fe,  it  is  more  central.  Including  the  neigh 
boring  rancheros,  it  has  a  population  of  1,000  souls.  "Albuqurque  for  a 
Mexican  town,  is  tolerably  well  built.  Its  buildings,  like  those  inhabited  by 
Mexicans,  are  of  a  right  parallelopipedon  shape,  constructed  of  adobes 
(blocks  of  sun  dried  mud),  and  arranged  generally  on  the  four  sides  of  a 
rectangle,  thus  creating  an  interior  court  (pateo),  upon  which  nearly  every 
one  of  the  apartments  opens.  There  is  generally  but  one  exterior  or  street 
entrance ;  and  this  is  generally  quite  wide  and  high,  the  usual  width  being 
about  six  feet,  and  the  hight  seven.  'They  appear  to  be  made  thus  wide,  at 
least  as  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  discover,  to  enable  the  burros  (asses)  and 
other  animals  to  go  through  with  their  packs.  They  are  generally  strongly 
secured  by  double  doors.  There  are  two  or  three  buildings  in  the  town  with 
extensive  fronts  and  portables  (porches),  which  look,  for  this  country,  very 
well — one  of  them  being  the  house,  formerly  occupied  by  Governor  Armijo. 
There  is  a  military  post  at  this  place,  garrisoned  by  U.  S.  troops." 

Acoma,  in  the  same  vicinity,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  extraordinary 
of  the  Indian  pueblos.  "Acoma  is  situated  on  an  isolated  rock  which  rises 
perpendicularly  to  a  hight  of  360  feet  above  the  plain,  and  appears  like  an 
island  in  the  middle  of  a  lake.  The  summit  of  this  rock  is  perfectly  hori 
zontal,  and  its  superficies  is  about  sixty  acres.  To  reach  it  you  must  climb 
over  hillocks  of  sand,  heaped  up  by  the  wind  to  a  third  of  the  hight;  the 
two  other  thirds  of  the  route  are  hewn  in  the  rock  in  the  shape  of  a  spiral 
staircase.  The  town  is  composed  of  blocks,  each  of  which  contains  sixty  or 
seventy  houses,  and  a  large  Catholic  church,  with  two  towers  and  very  pretty 
spires.  The  houses  are  three  stories  high,  and  have  windows  only  in  the 
upper  one;  in  construction,  they  are  quite  similar  to  those  of  the  other 
pueblos  of  New  Mexico.  Acoma  is  in  all  probability  the  Acuco  spoken  of 
by  the  ancient  Spanish  historians,  which,  according  to  them,  was  situated 
between  Cibola  and  Tiguex,  and  built  at  the  top  of  perpendicular  rocks,  whose 
summits  could  only  be  reached  by  means  of  300  steps  hewn  in  the  rock,  at 
the  end  of  which  steps  was  a  kind  of  ladder  eighteen  feet  high,  also  formed 
by  holes  cut  in  the  rock.  Although  this  pueblo  was  deemed  impregnable, 
yet  the  inhabitants  placed  huge  stones  around  it,  that  they  might  roll  them 
down  on  any  assailant  who  was  bold  enough  to  scale  this  extraordinary 
stronghold.  Near  the  dwellings  might  be  seen  arable  lands  sufficient  to  grow 
the  necessary  quantity  of  maize  for  the  wants  of  the  population ;  also  large 
cisterns  to  save  the  rain  waters.  The  Acucos  were  called  banditti  in  all  the 
surrounding  provinces,  into  which  they  made  frequent  excursions." 

Laguna,  a  few  miles  north  of  Acoma,  is  another  ancient  Indian  pueblo, 
and  contains  about  a  thousand  inhabitants,  noted  for  their  honesty,  sobriety, 
and  industry.  "  It  has  the  appearance  of  one  of  those  old  German  cities  on 
the  banks  of  the  Rhine  perched  on  a  mountain  peak.  The  houses,  with 
their  graduated  stories,  seem  piled  one  above  the  other,  producing  the  effect 
of  an  immense  amphitheater;  the  river  bathes  the  foot  of  the  eminence  on 
which  Laguna  is  built,  and  flows  in  tortuous  windings  through  the  plain." 

Zuni,  perhaps  the  most  important  of  all  the  pueblos,  is  west  of  Laguna. 
Its  present  population  is  about  2,000.  "The  houses  are  of  the  same  style 
as  those  of  the  other  Indian  pueblos;  their  graduated  stories  are  almost  all 
festooned  with  long  garlands  of  red  pimentos,  that  dry  in  the  sun.  The 
town  possesses  a  Catholic  church  thirty-three  yards  ,in  length,  by  nine  in 
width,  it  is  built  of  adobes,  and  behind  its  sole  altar  is  suspended  a  paint- 


714  NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

ing  representing  Our  Lady  of  G-uadaloupe,  the  patroness  of  Mexico;  a  few 
statues  surround  the  painting,  but  the  lateral  walls  arc  completely  bare.  The 
governor  lives  in  a  house  three  stories  high,  wherein  the  caciques  or  chiefs 
of  the  government  frequently  assemble.  The  Zunis  have  a  mania  for  taming 
eagles,  which  they  catch  while  yet  very  young  on  the  neighboring  moun 
tains  ;  multitudes  of  these  birds  are  to  be  seen  on  the  terraces  of  the  houses, 
spreading  their  enormous  wings  as  they  bask  in  the  sun." 

Zuni  Vieja,  or  Old  Zuni,  the  ancient  Cibola,  stood  in  the  immediate  vicin 
ity.  The  ruins  are  yet  to  be  seen.  They  are  in  the  center  of  a  plateau, 
elevated  more  than  900  feet  above  the  plains,  to  which  access  is  gained  only 
by  climbing  almost  inaccessible  rocks.  It  was  only  in  1694,  that  it  became 
definitely  conquered  by  the  Spaniards. 


ANTIQUITIES   OF   NEW   MEXICO. 

Much  of  New  Mexico  is  as  yet  unexplored ;  but  the  various  expeditions 
of  the  scientific  corps  of  the  U.  S.  army  have,  of  late  years,  given  us  the 
unexpected  information  of  the  existence  of  antiquities  in  the  heart  of  our 
continent,  as  surprising  and  worthy  of  curiosity  as  those  in  Central  America. 
In  the  region  north  and  east  of  the  Gila,  and  east  of  the  Rio  Colorado,  in  a 
space  of  some  few  hundred  square  miles,  the  ruins  of  ancient  walled  cities 
to  the  number,  it  is  estimated  by  an  officer  of  the  topographical  corps  of  en 
gineers,  of  1,000,  are  found  at  this  day.  These  show  that  the  country,  at 
some  very  remote  and  unknown  era,  perhaps  thousands  of  years  since,  was 
densely  populated,  and  by  a  race  to  a  considerable  degree  civilized.  The 
natives  living  in  the  pueblos  of  that  region,  can  give  no  information  respect 
ing  them.  Their  builders  were  far  in  advance  of  any  people  found  when 
the  country  was  conquered  by  the  Spaniards,  more  than  300  years  ago. 
Their  masonry  and  carpentery  show  much  skill.  Beautiful  and  highly  orna 
mented  pottery  also  is  found  in  the  vicinity  of  these  cities ;  but  in  every  in 
stance  it  is  in  fragments,  not  a  single  perfect  utensil  having  ever  been  dis 
covered.  The  immense  amount  of  this  broken  pottery  strewn  around  would 
indicate,  at  some  time  or  other,  a  regular  sacking  of  these  places.  The  cli 
mate  and  soil  must  have  changed  since  this  mysterious  race  dwelt  here;  for 
it  is  now  a  barren,  rainless  region,  incapable  of  supporting  anything  like  the 
population  these  ruins  indicate.  The  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate  has, 
doubtless,  preserved  the  woodwork  to  our  time. 

The  journal  of  Lieut.  James  H.  Simpson,  of  the  corps  of  U.  S.  topographi 
cal  engineers,  of  a  military  reconnoissance  from  Santa  Fe  to  the  Navajo  coun 
try,  in  the  year  1849,  and  published  by  government,  first  gave  to  the  world 
detailed  descriptions  of  some  of  these  ruined  cities.  Others  on  a  larger  scale 
and  more  important  have  been  found  farther  west,  of  which  descriptions  have 
not  as  yet  been  published.  We  derive  the  facts  and  illustrations  given  below 
from  the  work  alluded  to. 

The  command,  consisting  of  175  men  under  Col.  J.  M.  Washington,  left  Santa 
Fe  on  the  16th  of  August.  They  passed  southerly  and  westerly,  and  on 
the  26th  came  to  the  highest  point  of  land  dividing  the  tributaries  of  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  from  those  of  the  Pacific,  when  they  commenced  gradually 
descending  the  western  slope,  and  reached  the  Rio  Chaco,  a  tributary  of  the 
San  Juan.  Here,  upon  the  Rio  Chaco,  were  found  a  number  of  the  ancient 
towns  or  pueblos,  named  respectively,  Pueblo  Pintado,  Weje-gi,  Una  Vida, 


NEW   MEXICO    TERRITORY. 


715 


Hungo  Pavie,  Chettro  Kettle,  Del  Arroyo,  and  De  Penasca  Blanca.  These 
ruins  are  between  36°  and  37°  N.  lat.,  and  near  108°  W.  long.  "They  are 
evidently,"  says  Simpson,  "from  the  similarity  of  their  style  and  mode  of 
construction,  of  a  common  origin.  They  discover  in  the  materials  of  which 

they  are  composed,  as  well  as 

in  the  grandeur  of  their  de 
sign  and  superiority  of  their 
workmanship,  a  condition  of 
architectural  excellence  be 
yond  the  power  of  the  Indians 
or  New  Mexicans  of  the  pres 
ent  day  to  exhibit."  He  fur 
ther  adds  there  is  a  great  deal 
to  strengthen  the  hypothesis 
that  they  are  of  Aztec  origin. 
The  largest  was  De  Penasca 
Blanca,  which  in  circuit 


ANCIENT  PUEBLO.* 


was 


The  engraving  shows  Hungo  Pavie,  i.  e.  Crooked  Nose,  in 
its  original  condition. 


1,700  feet,  and  the  number  of 
rooms  on  the  first  floor  112. 
It  differed  in  its  walls  from  the  other  pueblos:  the  stones  composing  them 
being  of  one  uniform  character;  but  in  this  there  is  a  regular  alternation  of 
large  and  small  stones,  the  effect  of  which  is  unique  and  beautiful.  The 
first  pueblo  examined  was  Pintado.  We  annex  Simpson's  description: 


GROUND    PLAN 
OF    THE 

PCEBLO  HUNGO  PAVIE,  (CROOKED  NOSE) 
Canon  de  Chaco. 


Rums  of  wall  enclosing  court. 

Scale  of  feet  t 
0  .10         80         50         S,        90 


"After  partaking  of  some  refreshments.  I  started  off,  with  high  expectations — my  assist 
ants,  the  Messrs.  Kern,  accompanying  me — to  examine  the  ruins  of  Pueblo  Pintado.  We 
found  them  to  more  than  answer  our  expectations.  Forming  one  structure,  and  built  of 
tabular  pieces  of  hard,  fine  grained,  compact  gray  sandstone  (a  material  entirely  unknown 

*  "  Unwittingly  the  artist,"  says  Lieut.  Simpson,  "  has  fallen  one  story  short  of  the  num 
ber  the  ruins  exhibited.  In  their  restored  state,  four  storie?  should  appear." 


f^fi  NEW    MEXICO   TERRITORY. 

in  the  present  architecture  of  New  Mexico),  to  which  the  atmosphere  has  imparted  a  red 
dish  tinge,  the  layers  or  beds  being  not  thicker  than  three  inches,  and  sometimes  as  thin 
as  one  i'ourtb  of  an  inch,  it  discovers  in  the  masonry  a  combination  of  science  and  art 
which  can  only  be  referred  to  a  higher  stage  of  civilization  and  refinement  than  is  discov 
erable  in  the  works  of  Mexicans  or  Pueblos  of  the  present  day.  Indeed,  so  beautifully 
diminutive  and  true  are  the  details  of  the  structure  as  to  cause  it,  at  a  little  distance,  to 
have  all  the  appearance  of  a  magnificent  piece  of  mosaic  work. 

In  the  outer  face  of  the  buildings  there  are  no  signs  of  mortar,  the  intervals  between 
the  beds  being  chinked  with  stones  of  the  minutest  thinness.  The  filling  and  backing  are 
done  in  rubble  masonry,  the  mortar  presenting  no  indications  of  the  presence  of  lime. 
The  thickness  of  the  main  wall  at  base  is  within  an  inch  or  two  of  three  feet;  higher  up, 
it  is  less — diminishing  every  story  by  retreating  jogs  on  the  inside,  from  bottom  to  top. 
Its  elevation,  at  its  present  highest  point,  is  between  twenty-five  and  thirty  feet,  the  series 
of  floor  beams  indicating  that  there  must  have  been  originally  at  least  three  stories.  The 
ground  plan,  including  the  court,  in  exterior  development,  is  about  403  feet.  On  the 
ground  floor,  exclusive  of  the  outbuildings,  are  fifty- four  apartments,  some  of  them  as 
small  as  five  feet  square,  and  the  largest  about  twelve  by  six  feet.  These  rooms  commu 
nicate  with  each  other  by  very  small  doors,  some  of  them  as  contracted  as  two  and  a  half 
by  two  and  a  half  feet;  and  in  the  case  of  the  inner  suite,  the  doors  communicating  with 
the  interior  court  are  as  small  as  three  and  a  half  by  two  feet.  The  principal  rooms  or 
those  most  in  use,  were,  on  account  of  their  having  larger  doors  and  windows,  most  prob 
ably  those  of  the  second  story.  The  system  of  flooring  seems  to  have  been  large  trans 
verse  unhewn  beams,  six  inches  in  diameter,  laid  transversely  from  wall  to  wall,  and  then 
a  number  of  smaller  ones,  about  three  inches  in  diameter,  laid  longitudinally  upon  them. 
What  was  placed  on  these  does  not  appear,  but  most  probably  it  was  brush,  bark,  or  slabs, 
covered  with  a  layer  of  mud  mortar.  The  beams  show  no  signs  of  the  saw  or  axe;  on  the 
contrary,  thev  appear  to  have  been  hacked  off  by  means  of  some  very  imperfect  instru 
ment.  On  the  west  face  of  the  structure,  the  windows  which  are  only  in  the  second  story, 
are  three  feet  two  inches  by  two  feet  two  inches.  On  the  north  side,  they  are  only  in  the 
second  and  third  stories,  and  are  as  small  as  fourteen  by  fourteen  inches.  At  different 
points  about  the  premises  were  three  circular  apartments  sunk  in  the  ground,  the  walls 
being  of  masonry.  These  apartments  the  Pueblo  Indians  call  estuffas,  or  places  where  the 
people  held  their  political  and  religious  meetings. 

. . .  .Not  finishing  our  examinations  at  the  ruins  of  Pueblo  Pintado  yesterday  afternoon, 
we  again  visited  them  early  this  morning.  On  digging  about  the  base  of  the  exterior  wall, 
we  find  that,  for  at  least  two  feet  (the  depth  our  time  would  permit  us  to  go),  the  same 
kind  of  masonry  obtains  below  as  above,  except  that  it  appears  more  compact.  We  could 
find  no  signs  of  the  genuine  arch  about  the  premises,  the  lintels  of  the  doors  and  windows 
being  generally  either  a  number  of  pieces  of  wood  laid  horizontally  side  by  side,  a  single 
stone  slab  laid*  in  this  manner,  or  occasionally  a  series  of  smaller  ones  so  placed  horizon 
tally  upon  each  other  that,  while  presenting  the  form  of  a  sharp  angle,  in  vertical  longi 
tudinal  section,  they  would  support  the  weight  of  the  fabric  above.  Fragments  of  pottery 
lay  scattered  around,  the  colors  showing  taste  in  their  selection  and  in  the  style  of  their 
arrangement,  and  being  still  quite  bright." 

Simpson,  in  his  description  of  the  Pueblo  Hungo  Pavie,  of  which  both  ground 
plan  and  elevation  are  herein  pictorially  given,  says : 

These  ruins  show  the  same  nicety  in  the  details  of  their  masonry  as  already  described. 
The  ground  plan  shows  an  extent  of  exterior  development  of  eight  hundred  and  seventy- 
two  feet,  and  a  number  of  rooms  upon  the  ground  floor  equal  to  seventy-two.  The  struc 
ture  shows  the  existence  of  but  one  circular  estuffa,  and  this  is  placed  in  the  body  of  the 
north  portion  of  the  building,  midway  from  either  extremity.  This  estuffa  differs  from  the 
others  we  have  seen,  in  having  a  number  of  interior  counterforts.  The  main  walls  of  the 
building  are  at  base  two  and  three  quarter  feet  through,  and  at  this  time  show  a  hight  of 
about  thirty  feet.  The  ends  of  the  floor  beams,  which  are  still  visible,  plainly  showing 
that  there  was  originally,  at  least,  a  vertical  series  of  four  floors,  there  must  then  also' have 
been  originally  at  least  a  series  of  four  stories  of  rooms;  and  as  the  debris  at  the  base  of 
the  walls  is  very  great,  it  is  reasonable  to  infer  that  there  may  have  been  even  more.  The 
floor  beams,  which  are  round,  in  transverse  section,  and  eleven  inches  in  diameter,  as  well 
as  the  windows,  which  are  as  small  as  twelve  by  thirteen  inches,  have  been  arranged  hori 
zontally,  with  great  precision  and  regularity.  Pottery,  as  usual,  was  found  scattered  about 
the  premise*. . . . 

The  question  now  arises,  as  we  have  seen  all  the  ruins  in  this  quarter,  what  was  the  form 
of  these  buildings? — I  mean  as  regards  the  continuity  or  non-continuity  of  its  front  and 
rear  walls.  Were  these  walls  one  plain  surface  from  bottom  to  top,  as  in'the  United  States, 


NEW   MEXICO   TERRITORY. 


717 


or  were  they  interrupted  each  story  by  a  terrace,  as  is  the  case  with  the  modern  pueblo 
buildings  in  New  Mexico? 

(  The  front  or  exterior  walls  were  evidently  one  plain  surface  from  bottom  to  top;  because 
whenever  we  found  them  in  their  integrity,  which  we  did  for  as  many  as  four  stones  in 
hight,  we  always  noticed  them  to  be  uninterruptedly  plain. 

The  rear  walls,  however,  were,  in  no  instance  that  I  recollect  of,  found  to  extend  higher 
than  the  commencement  of  the  second  sfory;  and  the  partition  walls  were,  if  my  memory 

is  not  at  fault,  corres 
pondingly  steplike  in 
their  respective  alti 
tudes.  The  idea,  then, 
at  once  unfolds  itself, 
that  in  elevation  the 
inner  wall  must  have 
been  a  series  of  retreat 
ing  surfaces,  or,  what 
would  make  this  neces 
sary,  each  story  on  the 
inner  or  court  side 
must  have  been  ter 
raced.  This  idea  also 
gathers  strength  from 
the  fact  that  we  saw 
no  indications  of  any 
internal  mode  of  ascent 
from  story  to  story, 
and  therefore  that  some 
exterior  mode  must 
have  been  resorted  to 
— such  as,  probably, 
ladders,  which  the  ter 
race  form  of  the  sev 
eral  stories  would  ren 
der  very  convenient. 
Again,  the  terrace  form 
of  the  stories  would  best  conduce  to  light  and  ventilation  for  the  interior  ranges  of  apart 
ments.  The  idea  then,  which  Mr.  R.  H.  Kern  was  the  first  to  suggest — that  these  pueblos 
were  terraced  on  their  inner  or  court  side — is  not  without  strong  grounds  of  probability; 
and  it  is  in  consonance  with  this  idea  -that,  in  his  restoration  of  the  Pueblo  Hungo  Pavie, 
he  has  given  it  the  form  exhibited  in  the  drawing. 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  in  no  single  instance  did  we  find  in  these  ruins  either  a  chimney 
or  a  fireplace,  unless,  indeed,  the  recesses  described  as  existing  in  some  of  the  rooms  were 
used  as  fireplaces,  which  their  slight  hight,  as  well  as  deprivation  of  chimney  flues,  would 
scarcely  authorize.  Neither  were  there  any  indications  of  the  use  of  iron  about  the 
premises." 

A  few  days  later  the  command  came  to  the  renowned  Canon  of  Chelly.  This 
gorge  has  long  had  a  distinguished  reputation  among  the  natives  of  this  region, 
from  its  great  depth  and  impregnability.  It  is  inhabited  by  the  Navajoes,  who, 
although  they  possess  the  skill  to  manufacture  one  of  the  most  beautiful  kind  of 
blankets  in  the  world,  possess  no  better  habitations  than  the  conical  pole,  brush 
and  mud  lodge.  This  was  explored  fora  distance  of  over  nine  miles;  and  the 
further  they/  ascended  it  the  greater  was  the  altitude  of  the  inclosing  walls :  at  their 
furthest  point  of  progress  it  was  502  feet  high,  and  the  average  width  600  feet. 
The  total  length  of  the  canon  was  judged  to  be  about  25  miles.  In  ascending  it 
they  saw  some  fine  caves  here  and  there ;  also  small  habitations  made  up  of  over 
hanging  rock,  and  artificial  walls  laid  in  stone  and  mortar — the  latter  forming  the 
front  portion  of  the  dwelling.  Some  four  miles  from  the  mouth,  they  came  to  the 
ruins  of  a  small  pueblo,  like  those  already  described.  It  stood  on  the  shelf  of  the 
left  hand  wall,  about  50  feet  up  from  the  bottom,  and  the  wall  being  very  nearly 
perpendicular,  it  could  only  be  approached  by  ladders.  Seven  miles  from  the 
mouth  they  fell  in  with  the  ruins  shown  in  the  engraving,  with  the  stupendous 
rocks  in  rear  and  overhanging  them. 

"  These  ruins  are  on  the  left  or  north  side  of  the  canon,  a  portion  of  them  being 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  escarpment  wall,  and  the  other  portion  upon  a  shelf  in 


CANON  OF  CHELLY. 
About  500  feet  deep. 


RUINS  or  AN  ANCIENT  PUEBLO. 
In  the  Canon  of  Chelly. 


NEW   MEXICO    TERRITORY. 

the  wall  immediately  back  of  the  other  part,  some  fifty  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
canon.  The  wall  in  front  of  this  latter  portion  being  vertical,  access  to  it  could 
only  have  been  obtained  by  means  of  ladders.  The  front  of  these  ruins  measures 
one  hundred  and  forty-five  feet,  and  their  depth  forty -five.  The  style  of  structure 
is  similar  to  that  of  the  pueblos  found  on  the  Chaco — the  building  material  being 
of  small,  thin  sandstones,  from  two  to  four  inches  thick,  imbedded  in  mud  mortar, 
and  chinked  in  the  facade  with  smaller  stones.  The  present  hight  of  its  walls  is 
about  eighteen  feet.  Its  rooms  are  exceedingly  small,  and  the  windows  only  a  foot 
square.  One  circular  estuffa  was  all  that  was  visible." 

In  speaking  of  this  canon,  Simpson  says:  "What  appears  to  be  singular,  the 
sides  of  the  lateral  walls  are  not  only  as  vertical  as  natural  walls  can  well  be  con 
ceived  to  be,  but  they  are  perfectly  free  from  a  talus  of  debris,  the  usual  concom 
itant  of  rocks  of  this  description.  Does  not  this  point  to  a  crack  or  natural  fissure 
as  having  given  origin  to  the  canon,  rather  than  to  aqueous  agents,  which,  at  least 
at  the  present  period,  show  an  utter  inadequacy  as  a  producing  cause?" 

Although  the  canon  of  Chelly  was,  at  the  time,  considered  a  great  curios 
ity,  later  explorers  in  the  wild  waste  country  between  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  California  have  found  numerous  other  of  these  fissures,  to  which  this 
can  bear  no  comparison.  Some  of  them  are  entirely  inaccessible,  without 
outlet  or  inlet,  deep,  gloomy  cracks,  descending  far  down  into  the  earth,  lower 
than  the  bottom  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  bounded  by  forbidding,  perpendicular 
walls,  at  the  base%  of  which  the  foot  of  man  has  never  penetrated.  Others 
form  the  valleys  of  streams,  which,  as  one  stands  on  their  verge,  are  seen 
winding  their  serpentine  course  down  in  a  gorge  thousands  of  feet  below. 
The  canon  of  the  Rio  Colorado  is  of  this  character :  Lieut.  Ives,  in  his  ex 
plorations  ascertained  it  to  be  about  11,000  feet,  or  more  than  two  miles  in 
depth. 

About  200  miles  westerly  from  Santa  Fe,  and  near  the  town  of  Zuni,  the  com 
mand  came  to  a  stupendous  mass  of  rock,  about  250  feet  in  hight,  and  strikingly 
peculiar  from  its  massive  character,  and  the  Egyptian  style  of  its  natural  but 
tresses  and  domes.  "  Skirting  this  stupendous  mass  of  rock,"  states  Simpson,  "  on 
its  left  or  north  side,  for  about  a  mile,  the  guide,  just  as  we  had  reached  its  eastern 
terminus,  was  noticed  to  leave  us,  and  ascend  a  low  mound  or  rampart  at  its  base, 
the  better,  as  it  appeared,  to  scan  the  face  of  the  rock,  which  he  had  scarcely 
reached  before  he  cried  out  to  us  to  come  up.  We  immediately  went  up,  and, 
sure  enough,  here  were  inscriptions,  and  some  of  them  very  beautiful;  and, 
although,  with  those  which  we  afterward  examined  on  the  south  face  of  the  rock, 
there  could  not  be  said  to  be  half  an  acre  of  them,  yet  the  hyperbole  was  not  near 
so  extravagant  as  I  was  prepared  to  find  it.  The  fact  then  being  certain  that  here 
were  indeed  inscriptions  of  interest,  if  not  of  value,  one  of  them  dating  as  far 
back  as  1606,  all  of  them  very  ancient,  and  several  of  them  very  deeply  as  well  as 
beautifully  engraven,  I  gave  directions  for  a  halt — Bird  at  once  proceeding  to  get 
up  a  meal,  and  Mr.  Kern  and  myself  to  the  work  of  making  fac  similes  of  the  in 
scriptions The  greater  portion  of  these  inscriptions  are  in  Spanish,  with 

some  little  sprinkling  of  what  appeared  to  be  an  attempt  at  Latin,  and  the  remain 
der  in  hieroglyphics,  doubtless  of  Indian  origin." 

We  copy  a  few  of  the  inscriptions  from  Simpson,  to  present  an  idea  of 
their  general  character.  The  engraving  is  made  from  one  in  the  work  of 
Domenech : 

"  Bartolome  Narrso,  Governor  and  Captain  General  of  the  Provinces  of  New  Mexico,  for 
our  Lord  the  King,  passed  by  this  place,  on  his  return  from  the  Pueblo  of  Zuni,  on  the  29th 
of  July,  of  the  year  1620,  and  put  them  in  peace,  at  their  petition,  asking  the  favor  to  be 
come  subjects  of  his  majesty,  and  anew  they  gave  their  obedience ;  all  which  they  did  with 
free  consent,  knowing  it  prudent,  as  well  as  very  Christian  (a  word  or  two  effaced),  to  so 
distinguished  and  gallant  a  soldier,  indomitable  and  famed;  we  love  "(the  remainder 
effaced.) 


NEW   MEXICO    TERRITORY. 


719 


"  By  this  place  passed  Second  Lieutenant  Joseph  de  Payba  Basconzelos,  in  the  year  in 
which  the  council  of  the  kingdom  bore  the  cost,  on  the  18th  of  February,  in  the  year  1726." 


1  Pero  Vacu  (possibly  intended  for  vaca — cow)  ye  Jarde." 

'Alma." 

(  Leo." 


"  Captain   Jude  Vubarri,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  1,"  (probably  meaning   1701.     The 
ieroglyphics,  excepting  what  appears  to  designate  a  buffalo,  not  decipherable.) 


Inscription  Rock,  near  the  Pueblo  of  Zuni. 

On  the  hights  above  the  inscription  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  pueblo, 
similar  to  the  others  described,  though  inferior  in  the  style  of  masonry. 

Mr.  Simpson  was  not  enamored  with  New  Mexico.  In  his  journal  he 
states  that  he  had  not  seen  a  rich,  well  timbered,  and  sufficiently  watered 
country  since  he  had  left  the  confines  of  the  states  on  the  borders  of  the 
Mississippi  valley.  He  makes  these  remarks  upon  this  part  of  New  Mexico. 
The  portion  farther  west,  to  the  California  line,  according  to  other  observers, 
is  no  more  alluring.  Says  he  : 

"  The  idea  I  pertinaciously  adhered  to,  before  ever  having  seen  this  country, 
was,  that,  beside  partaking  of  the  bold  characteristics  of  the  primary  formations, 
rocks  confusedly  piled  upon  rocks,  deep  glens,  an  occasional  cascade,  green  fertile 
valleys — the  usual  accompaniments  of  such  characteristics  with  us  in  the  states- 
it  was  also,  like  the  country  of  the  states,  generally  fertile,  and  covered  with  ver 
dure.  But  never  did  I  have,  nor  do  1  believe  anybody  can  have,  a  full  apprecia 
tion  of  the  almost  universal  barrenness  which  pervades  this  country,  until  they 
come  out,  as  I  did,  to  'search  the  land,'  and  behold  with  their  own  eyes  its  general 


720  NEW   MEXICO    TERRITORY. 

nakedness  The  primary  mountains  present  none  of  that  wild,  rocky,  diversified, 
pleasing  aspect  which  they  do  in  the  United  States,  but,  on  the  contrary,  aro 
usually  of  a  rounded  form,  covered  by  a  dull,  lifeless-colored  soil,  and  generally 
destitute  of  any  other  sylva  than  pine  and  cedar,  most  frequently  of  a  sparse  and 
dwarfish  character.  The  sedimentary  rocks,  which,  contrary  to  my  preconceived 
notions,  are  the  prevalent  formations  of  the  country,  have  a  crude,  half-made-up 
appearance,  sometimes  of  a  dull  buff  color,  sometimes  white,  sometimes  red,  and 
sometimes  these  alternating,  and  being  almost  universally  bare  of  vegetation,  ex 
cept  that  of  a  sparse,  dwarfish,  sickening-colored  aspect,  can  not  be  regarded  as  a 
general  thing — at  least,  not  until  familiarity  reconciles  you  to  the  sight — without 
a  sensation  of  loathing.  The  face  of  the  country,  for  the  same  reason — the  gen 
eral  absence  of  all  verdure,  and  the  dead,  dull,  yellow  aspect  of  its  soil — has  a 
tendency  to  create  the  same  disagreeable  sensation." 


ARIZONA  TERRITORY. 


ARIZONA  originally  comprised  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  territory,  south  of 
the  Gila  River,  extending  frqm  the  Rio  Grande  on  the  east  to  the  Rio  Col 
orado  on  the  west,  just  above  its  entrance  into  the  Gulf  of  California.  It 
was  purchased,  in  1854,  of  Mexico,  from  the  northern  part  of  the  state  of 
Sonora,  for  ten  millions  of  dollars.  It  was  for  some  time  styled  the  Gads- 
den  Purchase,  out  of  compliment  to  General  Gadsden,  the  American  minis 
ter,  who  negotiated  the  treaty.  It  was  temporarily  attached,  by  congress  to 
the  territory  of  New  Mexico.  It  was  about  500  miles  lon^  with  a  width 
ranging  from  20  to  130  miles,  and  comprising  31,000  square  miles.  It  was 
separated  from  Texas  by  the  Rio  Grande ;  from  Lower  California  by  the 
Rio  Colorado ;  and  on  the  south  of  it  were  the  Mexican  states  of  Chihuahua 
and  Sonora. 

When  it  was  purchased  of  Mexico  there  was  scarcely  any  inhabitants,  ex 
cept  a  few  scattered  Mexicans  in  the  Mesilla  valley,  on  the  Rio  Grande,'and 
at  the  old  town  of  Tucson,  in  the  center  of  the  purchase.  The  marauding 
Apache  Indians  had  gradually  extirpated  almost  every  trace  of  civilization 
in  what  was  once  an  inhabited  Mexican  province.* 

In  1854,  congress  formed  the  present  territory  of  Arizona  from  the  west 
halves  of  New  Mexico  and  the  Gadsden  Purchase ;  and  the  east  half  of  the 
latter  is  now  the  southern  part  of  New  Mexico.  Arizona  has  an  area  of 
131,000  square  miles.  The  capital,  named  Prescott,  is  in  the  center  of  the 
territory. 

"  Much  interesting  information  upon  the  early  history  of  this  compara 
tively  little  known  part  of  the  United  States,  was  obtained  from  the  archives 
of  the  Mexican  government,  by  Capt.  C.  P.  Stone,  late  of  the  U.  S.  army. 
It  appears  that  as  early  as  1687,  a  Catholic  missionary  from  the  province  of 
Sonora,  which,  in  its  southern  portion,  bore  already  the  impress  of  Spanish 
civilization,  descended  the  valley  of  Santa  Cruz  River  to  the  Gila,  which  he 

*  The  following  extract  from  the  report  of  Col.  Chas.  D.  Poston,  agent  of  the  Sonora  Ex 
ploring  and  Mining  Company,  under  date  of  Jan.  31, 1857,  will  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  con 
dition  of  the  country  at  the  period  when  it  came  into  the  possession  of  our  people  :  "  It 
may  not  be  amiss,  in  these  desultory  remarks,  to  note  the  improvement  in  Tubac  and  the 
adjacent  country  since  our  arrival.  When  we  forced  our  wagons  here,  over  the  under 
growth  on  the  highway,  in  September  last  (1856),  no  human  being  was  present  to  greet  our 
coming,  and  desolation  overshadowed  the  scene.  It  was  like  entering  the  lost  city  of 
Pompeii.  The  atmosphere  was  loaded  with  the  malaria  of  a  rank  vegetation,  the  under 
growth  in  the  bottom  served  as  a  lurking  place  for  the  deadly  Apache,  and  the  ravens  in 
the  old  church  window  croaked  a  surly  welcome.  Now  the  highroads  are  alive  with  trains 
and  people.  Commerce,  agriculture,  and  mining  are  resuming  their  wonted  prosperity  under 
the  enterprise,  intelligence,  and  industry  of  our  people.  The  former  citizens  of  Tubac  have 
returned  to  the  occupation  of  their  houses,  set  to  work  vigorously  upon  their  milpas,  and 
are  loud  in  their  praises  of  American  liberty  and  freedom." 

46 


722  ARIZONA   TERRITORY. 

followed  to  its  mouth,  now  the  site  of  Fort  Yuma.  From  this  point  he 
.ascended  the  valley  of  the  Gila,  the  Salinas  or  Salt  River,  and  other  branches. 
Proceeding  east,  he  explored  the  valley  of  the  San  Pedro  and  its  branches, 
reached  the  Mimbres,  and  probably  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Mesilla  valley. 
Filled  with  the  enthusiasm  of  his  sect,  he  procured  authority  from  the  head 
of  the  order  in  Mexico,  and  established  missions  and  settlements  at  every 
available  point.  In  a  report  to  the  viceroy  of  Spain,  made  during  the  early 
settlement  of  the  province,  we  find  the  following  statement:  CA  scientific 
exploration  of  Sonora,  with  reference  to  mineralogy,  along  with  the  intro 
duction  of  families,  will  lead  to  a  discovery  of  gold  and  silver,  so  marvelous, 
that  the  result  will  be  such  as  has  never  yet  been  seen  in  the  world.'  A  map 
of  this  and  the  adjoining  territories  was  drawn  by  some  of  the  Spanish  mis 
sionaries  in  1757,  and  dedicated  to  the  king  of  Spain.  The  reports  of  the 
immense  mineral  wealth  of  the  new  country  made  by  the  priests,  induced  a 
rapid  settlement." 

The  sites  of  various  villages,  ranches,  and  missions,  as  indicated  on  this  map, 
were  principally  in  the  valleys  of  the  San  Pedro,  Santa  Cruz,  and  on  the  Mimbres. 
u  The  missions  and  settlements  were  repeatedly  destroyed  by  the  Apaches,  and  the 
priests  and  settlers  massacred  or  driven  off.  The  Indians,  at  length  thoroughly 
aroused  by  the  cruelties  of  the  Spaniards,  by  whom  they  were  deprived  of  their 
liberty,  forced  to  labor  in  the  silver  mines  with  inadequate  food,  and  barbarously 
treated,  finally  rose,  joined  with  the  tribes  who  had  never  been  subdued,  and  grad 
ually  drove  out  or  massacred  their  oppressors.  Civilization  disappeared  before 
their  devastating  career,  and  in  its  place  we  now  find,  with  few  exceptions,  only 
ruins  and  decay,  fields  deserted,  and  mines  abandoned.  The  mission  of  San  Xavier 
del  Bae,  and  the  old  towns  of  Tucson  and  Tubac,  are  the  most  prominent  of  these 
remains.  The  mission  of  San  Xavier  del  Bac  is  a  grand  old  structure,  which,  from 
its  elegant  masonry  and  tasteful  ornaments,  must  have  been  erected  in  times  of 
great  prosperity.  From  1757  down  to  1820,  the  Spaniards  and  Mexicans  continued 
to  work  many  valuable  mines  near  Barbacora,  and  the  ancient  records  and  notes 
mention  many  silver  mines  most  of  which  contain  a  percentage  of  gold.  The 
most  celebrated  modern  localities  are  Arivaca  (also  anciently  famous  as  Aribac), 
Sopori,  the  Arizona  Mountains,  the  Santa  Rita  range,  the  Cerro  Colorado,  the  en 
tire  vicinity  of  Tubac,  the  Del  Ajo,  or  Arizona  copper  mine,  the  Gadsonia  copper 
mine,  and  the  Gila  River  copper  mines.  As  late  as  1820,  the  Mina  Cobre  de  la 
Plata  (silver  and  copper  mines),  near  Fort  Webster,  north  of  the  Gila,  were 
worked  to  great  advantage ;  and  so  rich  was  the  ore  that  it  paid  for  transportation 
on  mule-back,  more  than  a  thousand  miles,  to  the  city  of  Mexico. 

The  silver  mining  region  of  Arizona  is,  in  fact,  the  north-western  extension  oi 
the  great  silver  region  of  Mexico.  The  mountain  ranges  are  the  prolongations  oi 
those  which  southward  in  Sonora,  Chihuahua,  and  Durango,  have  yielded  silver 
by  millions  for  centuries  past.  The  general  direction  of  the  mountains  and  the 
veins,  is  north-west  and  south-east,  and  there  are  numerous  parallel  chains  or  ranges 
which  form  long  and  narrow  valleys  in  the  same  direction.  Like  most  mineral  re 
gions,  Arizona  is  of  small  value  for  agriculture,  possessing  in  comparison  with  its 
extent  but  little  arable  land,  and  in  most  parts  is  nearly  destitute  of  water,  and 
desert-like.  Some  of  this  forbidding  and  arid  surface  would,  however,  prove  fertile 
if  irrigated." 

The  population  of  Arizona,  aside  from  the  Indians,  amounted  in  1860  to 
but  a  few  thousand  souls.  In  the  whole  territory,  persons  of  the  Anglo-Saxon 
race,  aside  from  the  U.  S.  soldiers  in  garrison,  numbered,  at  the  outside,  but 
a  few  hundred  souls;  the  remainder  of  the  inhabitants  consisted  of  Mexi 
cans,  mostly  of  the  peon  class.  The  Pimos  Indians  live  in  villages  on  the 
Gila  River,  in  the  north-western  part  of  the  country,  and  are  a  friendly,  in 
offensive  race,  who  raise  corn  and  wheat,  and  supply  emigrants  who  traverse 
the  southern  route  to  California.  The  Apaches  are  a  wild,  thieving  tribe, 


ARIZONA  TERRITORY. 


723 


of  murderers,  who  live  on  the  head  streams  of  the  Gila,  beyond  the  reach 

of  the  white  man. 

The  southern  boundary  of  Arizona  was  so  run  as  to  exclude  any  part  of 

the  Gulf  of  California  from  American  jurisdiction,  so  that  she  has  not  there 

a  single  seaport. 
Tucson,  the 
principal  town,  is 
a  miserable  col 
lection  of  adobe 
h  o  u  s  e  s  ,  in  the 
valley  of  the  San 
ta  Cruz.  It  con 
tains  about  700 
inhabitants,  near 
ly  all  of  them 
degraded  Mexi 
cans.  The  en 
graving  shows 
the  church  of  the 
place,  an  adobe  or 
sun-burned  brick 
structure;  it  is 
from  a  drawing 
in  outline,  taken 
CHURCH  AT  TUCSON.  on  San  Antonio's 

On  San  Antonio's  Day,  1860.  J>  .  * 

Among  the  fig 
ures  are  one  or  two  of  the  wild  Apache  Indians  and  numerous  females,  etc. 

Tubac,  52  miles  south  of  Tucson,  is  the  business  center  of  the  silver 
mining  district  of  Arizona,  and  contains  a  few  hundred  souls.  The  princi 
pal  mines  worked  in  its  vicinity  are  the  Heintzelman  and  those  of  the  Santa 
Rita  Company.  With  the  pecuniary  success  of  these  mines,  appears  to  be 
connected  the  immediate  progress  of  the  territory,  as,  aside  from  the  mines, 
it  has  no  resources  ;  but  in  these  Arizona  has  a  great  future. 

When  our  pioneers  poured  in  upon  the  gold  placers  of  California,  the  in 
trepid  gold-hunter  could,  alone  and  single  handed,  work  his  way  to  wealth, 
with  a  jack-knife  and  tin-pan  ;  and,  at  the  end  of  a  day's  labor,  tie  up  the 
avails  in  a  rag,  place  it  under  his  pillow,  and  then  dream  pleasantly  of  wife, 
and  children,  and  home,  far  away  on  the  other  side  of  the  continent. 

Silver  mining  is  a  different  business.  The  eager  novice  might  collect  his 
tuns  of  silver  ore ;  and  then  would  come  the  tantalizing  discovery — it  was 
labor  lost.  To  extract  the  silver  from  its  ores,  is  often  one  of  the  most  dif 
ficult  of  all  chemical  processes,  requiring  practice  with  a  peculiar  aptness 
for  metallurgy,  so  diversified  and  intricate  are  the  combinations  of  this  metal 
with  other  minerals.  No  college  professor,  however  fine  a  metallurgist  he 
might  be,  could  successfully  manage  the  reduction  works  of  a  silver  mine ; 
Americans,  until  they  learn  the  art,  and  "  improve  upon  it,"  as  is  their  na 
tional  bent,  will  be  compelled  to  procure  their  talent  of  this  kind  from  those 
bred  from  youth  to  this  branch,  in  Mexico  and  Germany.  Aside  from  this 
difficulty,  enormous  outlays  are  required  to  start  and  work  a  silver  mine : 
this  can  generally  only  be  obtained  by  associated  capital.  With  this  comes 


724  ARIZONA    TERRITORY. 

the  cumbrous,  awkward  revolving  machinery  of  corporations,  and  its  attend 
ant  evils  of  mismanagement,  in  which  the  interests  of  the  small,  confiding 
stockholder  are  too  apt  to  be  the  last  thing  attended  to  by  directors  and 
agents.  Could  the  amount  of  money  lost  in  our  Union,  within  the  last  ten 


Reduction  Works  of  the  Heintzelman  Silver  Mine. 

The  engraving  is  from  a  drawing  by  H.  C.  Grosvenor.  This  establishment  is  on  the  famous  Arivaca  Banche. 
The  Reduction  Works  are  in  front,  where  the  ore  is  reduced  to  silver  by  the  German  (Freyburg)  amalgam 
ation  barrel  process.  On  the  extreme  right  of  the  inclosure  is  the  corral  for  the  mules.  In  the  rear  is 
seen  the  officers'  quarters  and  store  houses ;  on  the  left  and  also  in  the  rear  of  the  store-houses  are  the 
huts  of  the  Mexican  laborers  or  peons,  of  whom  here  and  in  the  mine  several  hundred  are  employed.  The 
buildings  are  all  adobes. 

years  alone,  by  the  selfishness  and  mismanagement  of  men  in  charge  of  cor 
porations  be  ascertained,  it  would  probably  sum  up  many  fold  the  value  of 
all  the  property  more  courageously  stolen  by  the  united  labor  of  all  the  bur 
glars  who  have  been  thrust  into  the  cells  of  our  penitentiaries,  from  the 
foundation  of  the  government  to  the  present  day.  Thus  multitudes,  orphans 
and  widows,  have  been  wronged,  and  the  hard-earned  accumulations  of  vig 
orous  manhood,  laid  by  in  a  spirit  of  self-denial,  as  a  resource  for  old  age. 
irretrievably  and  shamefully  lost.  The  suspicious  and  selfish  carry  in  theii 
own  bosoms  a  defense  against  such  allurements :  the  single-hearted  and  inno 
cent  fall  victims.  The  hard  lesson  taught  to  individuals  is,  that  money  if* 
seldom  safely  spent,  excepting  by  the  hand  that  earns  it.  Yet  it  is  only  b} 
associated  capital  great  enterprises  can  be  consummated ;  and  so,  through 
more  or  less  of  personal  risk  and  loss,  the  general  welfare  is  promoted. 

Such  are  the  enormous  returns  of  successful  silver  mines,  that  capital  and  enter 
prise  have  always  been  ready  to  embark  in  the  development  of  even  veins  of  mod 
erate  promise.  In  Mexico,  where  silver  mining  has  been,  for  over  two  hundred 
years,  the  great  staple  business  of  the  country,  the  most  enormous  fortunes,  have 
been  realized  in  working  mines.  The  famous  Real  Del  Monte,  near  the  city  of 
Mexico,  is  now  1,500  feet  deep,  and  yielded  in  1857,  $3,750,000  of  silver  from  ore 
which  averaged  $56  per  tun.  The  Biscaina  vein,  in  the  12  years  immediately  suc 
ceeding  1762,  in  which  the  adit  of  Moran  was  completed,  yielded  to  its  owner, 
Tereros,  a  clear  profit  of  $6,000,000.  The  produce  of  Catorce,  taking  the  average 
of  the  five  years  from  1800  to  1804,  was  $2,854,000.  Santa  Eulalia,  near  Chihua 
hua,  from  1705  to  1737,  yielded  $55,959,750,  or  an  average  of  $1,748,742  per  an 
num.  These  and  numerous  other  instances  of  successful  mining,  as  published  in 
Ward's  History  of  Mexico,  show  silver  mining  to  be  a  business  of  great  vicissitudes, 
involving  large  expenditures,  with  a  prospect  of  gains  correspondingly  large.  The 


ARIZONA   TERRITORY.  725 

whole  produce  of  the  Mexican  mines  was  estimated  by  Humboldt,  in  1803,  at  nearly 
two  thousand  millions  of  dollars. 

By  many,  and  especially  the  Mexicans,  the  Gadsden  Purchase  is  regarded  as  the 
richest  portion  of  the  continent,  for  mines  of  silver,  copper  and  lead.  Silver  ore 
has  already  been  reduced  there  which  yielded,  in  large  quantities,  $1,000  to  the 
tun.  The  average  of  the  Heintzelman  mine  has  been  $250,  although  much  of  the 
ore  taken  from  it  yielded  from  $1,000  to  $5,000  per  tun,  and  some  at  the  rate  of 
over  $20,000. 

The  copper  mines  worked  on 'the  Mimbres  River,  yield  large  quantities  of  ore 
which  is  95  per  cent,  copper,  while  the  lead  mines  of  the  Santa  JRita  and  Santa 
Cruz  Mountains,  are  really  inexhaustible.  With  these  mineral  treasures,  placed 
by  nature  for  the  use  of  man,  it  is  not  at  all  probable  that  Arizona  will  long  remain 
in  its  present  condition.  When  once  the  mining  enterprises  already  begun  shall 
have  demonstrated,  either  in  the  hands  of  their  present  proprietors  or  some  others, 
that  the  precious  metals  not  only  exist  there,  but  may  become  profitable,  a  new 
impetus  will  be  given  to  this  kind  of  industry,  and  the  silver  country  of  Arizona  will 
become  as  widely  known  as  the  golden  fields  of  California. 

Various  modes  are  practiced  of  reducing  silver  from  its  ores.  1.  The 
Furnace.  2.  The  Mexican  or  patio  (floor)  amalgamation,  with  quicksilver. 
3.  The  caze  (or  kettle)  amalgamation.  4.  The  Freyberg  or  German  barrel 
amalgamation.  5.  Augustin's  method,  by  salt,  without  mercury.  6.  Zier- 
vogel's  method,  with  salt  or  mercury,  These  modes  can  not  be  indiscrimin 
ately  applied.  The  character  of  the  ores,  climate,  and  other  circumstances 
will  alone  determine  it.  If  the  ore  of  a  mine,  in  its  mineralogical  consitu- 
ents,  is  not  adapted  to  the  mode  of  operation  to  which  the  operator  is  bred, 
he  is  generally  powerless  to  reduce  it.  One  experienced  in  smelting  ores, 
can  not  reduce  those  which  are  adapted  to  "the  patio ;"  or  one  accustomed 
to  "  the  patio,"  can  not  reduce  by  the  German  barrel,  or  by  the  Augustin 
process,  and  vice  versa. 


UTAH  TERRITORY. 


UTAH  derives  its  name  from  that  of  a  native  Indian  tribe,  the  Pah-Utahs. 
It  formed  originally  a  part  of  the  Mexican  territory  of  Upper  California, 
and  was  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  with  Mexico,  at  the  close 
of  the  Mexican  war.  In  1850  it  was  erected  into  a  territory  by  Congress. 

"A  large  part  of  Utah  is  of  volcanic  origin.  It  is  supposed,  from  certain 
traditions  and  remains,  to  have  been,  many  ljundred  years  ago,  the  residence 
of  the  Aztec  nation — that  they  were  driven  south  by  the  volcanic  eruptions 
which  changed  the  face  of  the  whole  country.  Eventually,  they  became  the 
possessors  of  Mexico,  where,  after  attaining  great  proficiency  in  the  arts  of 
life,  they  were  finally  overthrown  by  the  Spaniards  at  the  •  time  of  the  con 
quest. 

Utah  was  not  probably  visited  by  civilized  man  until  within  the  present 
century.  There  were  Catholic  missionaries  who  may  have  just  touched  its 
California  border,  and  the  trappers  and  hunters  employed  by  the  fur  compa 
nies.  The  first  establishment  in  Utah  was  made  by  William  H.  Ashley,  a 
Missouri  fur-trader.  In  1824,  he  organized  an  expedition  which  passed  up 
the  valley  of  the  Platte  River,  and  through  the  cleft  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
since  called  "The  South  Pass;"  and  then  advancing  further  west,  he  reached 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  which  lies  embosomed  among  lofty  mountains.  About 
a  hundred  miles  south-east  of  this,  he  discovered  a  smaller  one,  since  known 
as  "Ashley's  Lake."  He  there  built  a  fort  or  trading  post,  in  which  he  left 
about  a  hundred  men.  Two  years  afterward,  a  six-pound  piece  of  artillery 
was  drawn  from  Missouri  to  this  fort,  a  distance  of  more  than  twelve  hun 
dred  miles,  and  in  1828,  many  wagons,  heavily  laden,  performed  the  same 
journey. 

During  the  three  years  between  1824  and  1827,  Ashley's  men  collected 
and  sent  to  St.  Louis,  furs  from  that  region  of  country  to  an  amount,  in  value, 
of  ever  $180,000.  He  then  sold  out  all  his  interests  to  Messrs.  Smith,  Jack 
son,  and  Sublette.  These  energetic  and  determined  men  carried  on  for  many 
years  an  extensive  and  profitable  business,  in  the  course  of  which  they  mi- 
versed  a  large  part  of  southern  Oregon,  Utah,  California,  and  New  Mexico 
west  of  the  mountains.  Smith  was  murdered  in  the  summer  of  1829,  by  the 
Indians  north-west  of  Utah  Lake.  Ashley's  Fort  was  long  since  abandoned, 

Unfortunately,  these  adventurous  men  knew  nothing  of  science,  and  but 
little  information  was  derived  from  them  save  vague  reports  which  greatly 


728  UTAH   TERRITORY. 

excited  curiosity;  this  was  only  increased  by  the  partial   explorations  of 
Fremont 

v  In  his  second  expedition,  made  in  1843,  he  visited  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
which  appears  upon  old  Spanish  maps  as  Lake  Timpanogos  and  Lake  Tegaya. 
Four  years  after,  in  1847,  the  Mormons  emigrated  to  Utah,  and  commenced 
the  first  regular  settlement  by  whites.  It  was  then  an  isolated  region,  nom 
inally  under  the  government  of  Mexico.  They  expected  to  found  a  Mormon 
state  here,  and  rest  in  quiet  far  from  the  abodes  of  civilized  man ;  but  the 
results  of  the  Mexican  war,  the  acquirement  of  the  country  by  the  United 
States,  with  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  brought  them  on  the  line  of 
emigration  across  the  continent,  and  more  or  less  in  conflict  with  the  citizens 
and  general  government. 

Utah  extended  originally  from  the  37th  to  the  42d  degrees  of  north  lati 
tude,  and  between  the  107th  and  120th  degrees  of  west  longitude,  having  a 
breath  of  300,  and  an  average  length,  east  and  west,  of  600  miles,  containing  an 
area  of  about  180,000  square  miles.  It  now  has  110,000  square  miles  only. 

"The  main  geographical  characteristic  of  Utah  is,  that  anomalous  feature  in  our 
continent,  which  is  more  Asiatic  than  American  in  its  character,  known  as  the 
Great  Basin.  It  is  about  500  miles  long,  east  and  west,  by  275  in  breadth,  north 
and  south,  and  occupies  the  greater  part  of  the  central  and  western  portions  of  the 
territory.  It  is  elevated  near  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  shut  in 
all  around  by  mountains  with  its  own  system  of  lakes  and  rivers;  and  what  is  a 
striking  feature,  none  of  which  have  any  connection  with  the  ocean.  The  general 
character  of  the  basin  is  that  of  a  desert.  It  has  never  been  fully  explored,  but 
so  far  as  it  has  been,  a  portion  of  it  is  found  to  consist  of  arid  and  sterile  plains, 
another  of  undulating  table  lands,  and  a  third  of  elevated  mountains,  a  few  of 
whose  summits  are  capped  with  perpetual  snow.  These  range  nearly  north  and 
south,  and  rise  abruptly  from  a  narrow  base  to  a  hight  of  from  2,000  to  5,000  feet. 
Between  these  ranges  of  mountains  are  the  arid  plains,  which  deserve  and  receive 
the  name  of  desert.  From  the  snow  on  their  summits  and  the  showers  of  summer 
originate  small  streams  of  water  from  five  to  fifty  feet  wide,  which  eventually  lose 
themselves,  some  in  lakes,  some  in  the  alluvial  soil  at  their  base,  and  some  in  dry 
plains.  Among  the  most  noted  of  these  streams  is  Humboldt's  or  Mary's  River, 
well  remembered  by  every  California  emigrant,  down  which  he  pursues  his  course 
for  three  hundred  miles,  until  it  loses  itself  in  the  ground,  at  a  place  called  St. 
Mary's  Sink,  where  its  waters  are  of  a  poisonous  character. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the  Utah  Lake  are  in  this  basin,  toward  its  eastern 
rim,  and  constitute  its  most  interesting  feature — one  a  saturated  solution  of  com 
mon  'salt — the  other  fresh — the  Utah  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  Salt  Lake, 
which  is  itself  about  4,200  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  they  are  connected  by  Utah 
River — or,  as  the  Mormons  call  it,  the  Jordan — which  is  forty-eight  miles  in  length. 
These  lakes  drain  an  area  of  from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  square  miles. 

The  Utah  is  about  thirty-five  miles  long,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  numerous  and 
bold  streams  which  it  receives,  coming  down  from  the  mountains  on  the  south-east, 
all  fresh  water,  although  a  large  formation  of  rock-salt,  imbedded  in  red  clay,  is 
found  within  the  area  on  the  south-east,  which  it  drains.  The  lake  and  its  affluents 
afford  large  trout  and  other  fish  in  great  numbers,  which  constitute  the  food  of  the 
Utah  Indians  during  the  fishing  season.  The  Great  Salt  Lake  has  a  very  irregular 
outline  greatly  extended  at  time  of  melting  snows.  It  is  about  seventy  miles  in 
length ;  both  lakes  ranging  north  and  south,  in  conformity  to  the  range  of  the 
mountains,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  predominance  of  salt.  The  whole  lake  water 
seems  thoroughly  saturated  with  it,  and  every  evaporation  of  the  water  leaves  salt 
behind.  The  rocky  shores  of  the  islands  are  whitened  by  the  spray,  which  leaves 
salt  on  everything  it  touches,  and  a  covering  like  ice  forms  over  the  water  which 
the  waves  throw  among  the  rocks.  The  shores  of  the  lake,  in  the  dry  season,  when 
the  waters  recede,  and  especially  on  the  south  side,  are  whitened  with  incrusta 
tions  of  fine  white  salt;  the  shallow  arms  of  the  lake,  at  the  same  time  under  a 


UTAH   TERRITORY.  729 

slight  covering  of  briny  water,  present  beds  of  salt  for  miles,  resembling  softened 
ice,  into  which  the  horses'  feet  sink  to  the  fetlock.  Plants  and  bushes,  blown  by 
the  wind  upon  these  fields,  are  entirely  incrusted  with  crystallized  salt,  more  than 
an  inch  in  thickness.  Upon  this  lake  of  salt  the  fresh  water  received,  though  great 
in  quantity,  has  no  perceptible  effect.  No  fish  or  animal  life  of  any  kind  is  found 
in  it. 

The  Rio  Colorado,  with  its  branches,  is  about  the  only  stream  of  note  in  Utah 
which  is  not  within  the  Great  Basin.  The  only  valleys  supposed  to  be  inhabitable 
in  the  vast  country  in  the  eastern  rim  of  the  Great  Basin  and  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains,  are  the  valleys  of  the  Uintah  and  Green  Rivers,  branches  of  the  Colorado, 
and  whether  even  these  are  so,  is  extremely  problematical.  The  country  at  the 
sources  of  this  great  river  is  incapable  of  supporting  any  population  whatever. 

The  climate  01  Utah  is  milder  and  drier  in  general  than  it  is  in  the  same  parallel 
on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  temperature  in  the  Salt  Lake  Valley  in  the  winter  is 
very  uniform,  and  the  thermometer  rarely  descends  to  zero.  There  is  but  little 
rain  in  Utah,  except  on  the  mountains,  from  the  1st  of  May  until  the  1st  of  Octo 
ber  ;  hence  agriculture  can  only  be  carried  on  by  irrigation. 

In  every  portion  of  the  territory  where  it  has  been  attempted,  artificial  irriga 
tion  has  been  found  to  be  indispensable ;  and  it  is  confidently  believed  that  no  part 
of  it,  however  fertile,  will  mature  crops  without  ifc,  except  perhaps  on  some  small 
patches  on  low  bottoms.  But  limited  portions,  therefore,  of  even  the  most  fertile 
and  warmest  valleys,  can  ever  be  made  available  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  only 
such  as  are  adjacent  to  streams  and  are  well  located  for  irrigation.  Small  valleys 
surrounded  by  high  mountains,  are  the  most  abundantly  supplied  with  water,  the 
streams  being  fed  by  melting  snows  and  summer  showers. 

The  greater  part  of  Utah  is  sterile  and  totally  unfit  for  agriculture,  and  is  unin 
habited  and  uninhabitable,  except  by  a  few  trappers  and  some  roaming  bands  of 
Indians,  who  subsist  chiefly  upon  game,  fish,  reptiles,  and  mountain  crickets.  The 
general  sterility  of  the  country  is  mainly  owing  to  the  want  of  rain  during  the 
summer  months,  and  partly  from  its  being  elevated  several  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 

The  whole  country  is  almost  entirely  destitute  of  timber.  The  little  which  there 
is  may  be  found  on  the  side  of  the  high,  rocky  mountains,  and  in  the  deep  moun 
tain  gorges,  whence  issue  the  streams.  On  the  table  lands,  the  gently  undulating 
plains  and  the  isolated  hills,  there  is  none.  There  are,  however,  small  groves  of 
cotton-wood  and  box-alder  on  the  bottoms  of  some  of  the  principal  streams. 

A  species  of  artemisia,  generally  known  by  the  name  of  wild  sage,  abounds  in 
most  parts  of  the  country,  where  vegetation  of  any  kind  exists,  but  particularly 
where  there  is  not  warmth  and  moisture  sufficient  to  produce  grass. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  Valley  is  the  largest  known  in  the  Great  Basin,  being  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  long,  and  from  twenty  to  forty  broad,  but  the  Salt 
Lake  occupies  much  of  its  northern  portion.  The  surface  of  its  center  is  level, 
ascending  gently  on  either  side  toward  the  mountains.  This  valley  is  regarded  as 
one  of  the  healthiest  portions  of  the  globe ;  the  air  is  very  pure.  Its  altitude  is 
forty-three  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  and  some  of  the  mountains  on 
the  east  of  the  valley  are  more  than  a  mile  and  a  quarter  high,  and  covered  with 
perpetual  snow;  while  in  the  valley  the  thermometer  frequently  rises  above  one 
hundred  degrees. 

By  means  of  irrigation,  the  Mormon  valleys  are  made  productive.  Wheat,  rye, 
barley,  buckwheat,  oats  and  Indian  corn  are  their  agricultural  products,  and  all 
the  garden  vegetables  peculiar  to  the  middle  and  western  states  are  grown.  To 
bacco  and  sweet  potatoes  can  be  produced  in  limited  quantities.  The  system  of 
irrigation  prevents  rust  or  smut  striking  the  crop,  and  renders  it  sure.  The  terri 
tory  of  the  Mormons  is  a  stock-raising  country,  and  they  are,  to  a  great  extent,  a 
pastoral  people.  We  find  here  that  cereal  anomaly,  the  bunch  grass.  It  grows 
only  on  the  bottoms  of  the  streams,  and  on  the  table-lands  of  the  warmest  and  most 
fertile  valleys.  It  is  of  a  kind  peculiar  to  cold  climates  and  elevated  countries,  and 
is,  we  presume,  the  same  as  the  grama  of  New  Mexico.  In  May,  when  the  other 
grasses  start,  this  fine  plant  dries  upon  its  stalk,  and  becomes  a  light  yellow  straw, 
full  of  flavor  and  nourishment.  It  continues  thus  through  what  are  the  dry  months 


730 


UTAH   TERRITORY. 


of  the  climate  until  January,  and  then  starts  with  a  vigorous  growth,  like  that  of 
our  own  winter  wheat  in  April,  which  keeps  on  until  the  return  of  another  May. 
Whether  as  straw  or  grass,  the  cattle  fatten  on  it  the  year  round.  The  numerous 
little  dells  and  sheltered  spots  that  are  found  in  the  mountains  are  excellent  sheep 
walks.  Hogs  fatten  on  a  succulent  bulb  or  tuber,  called  the  seacoe  or  seegose  root, 
which  is  highly  esteemed  as  a  table  vegetable  by  the  Mormons." 

The  population  of  Utah  has  been  nearly  stationary  for  many  years,  and  is 
composed  almost  entirely  of  Mormons.  Population  of  Utah,  in  1860,  was 
50,000. 


View  in  Salt  Lake  Oity. 

'The  large  block  on  the  left  contains  the  Church,  Store,  and  Tithing  Office,  where  one  tenth  of  all  the 
produce  is  contributed  to  the  Church  Fund.  On  the  extreme  right  is  the  Harem  of  Brigham  Young,  the 
famous  "  Lion  House,"  so  called  from  the  statues  of  lions  in  front.  The  Wasatch  Mountains  are  seen  iu 
the  back  ground. 

SALT  LAKE  CITY  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gentle  declivity  near  the  base 
of  a  mountain,  about  two  miles  east  of  the  Utah  outlet,  or  the  River  Jordan, 
and  about  twenty-two  miles  south-east  of  the  Salt  Lake.  "  It  is  nearly  on 
the  same  latitude  with  New  York  City,  and  is,  by  air  lines,  distant  from  New 
York  2,100  miles;  from  St.  Louis,  1,200;  from  San  Francisco,  550;  and 
from  Oregon  City  and  Santa  Fe,  each  600.  During  five  months  of  the  year 
it  is  shut  out  from  all  communication  with  the  north,  east,  or  west,  by  moun 
tains  rendered  impassable  from  snow.  Through  the  town  runs  a  beautiful 
brook  of  cool,  limpid  water,  called  City  creek.  The  city  is  laid  out  regu 
larly,  on  an  extensive  scale ;  the  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  being  each  eight  rods  wide.  Each  lot  contains  an  acre  and  a  quarter  of 
ground,  and  each  block  or  square  eight  lots.  Within  the  city  are  four  public 
squares.  The  city  and  all  the  farming  lands  are  irrigated  by  streams  of 
beautiful  water,  which  flow  from  the  adjacent  mountains.  These  streams 
have  been,  with  great  labor  and  perseverance,  led  in  every  direction.  '  In  the 
city,  they  flow  on  each  side  of  the  different  streets,  and  their  waters  are  let 
upon  the  inhabitants'  gardens  at  regular  periods,  so  likewise  upon  the  exten 
sive  fields  of  grain  lying  to  the  south.  The  greater  part  of  the  houses  which 


UTAH   TERRITORY.  731 

had  been  built  up  to  the  close  of  1850,  were  regarded  as  merely  temporary ; 
most  of  them  were  small  but  commodious,  being,  in  general,  constructed  of 
adobe  or  sun-dried  brick.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  house  for  pub 
lic  worship,  a  council-house,  a  bath-house  at  the  Warm  Spring;  and  they 
are  erecting  another  temple  more  magnificent  than  that  they  formerly  had  at 
Nauvoo.  Public  free-schools  are  established  in  the  different  wards  into 
which  the  city  is  divided.  East  of  the  city  a  mile  square  is  laid  off  for  a 
State  University." 

Hon.  John  Cradlebaugh,  late  assistant  judge  of  the  Territory  of  Utah, 
gives  this  sketch  of  the  Mormons,  their  origin,  doctrines,  practices,  and 
crimes : 

Extent  of  Hormonisyi — The  Mormon  people  have  possessed  themselves  of  this 
country,  and  although  their  history  has  been  but  a  brief  one,  yet  their  progress 
has  been  so  great  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  world.  Although  they  have 
not  existed  more  than  the  third  of  a  century,  yet  we  find  that  they  have  been 
enabled  to  encompass  the  globe  itself  with  missionaries.  Although  they  have  ex 
isted  but  a  few  years,  we  find  them  rising  from  a  single  family  to  be  now  what  they 
call  a  great  nation.  They  claim  to  be  a  nation  independent  of  all  other  nations. 
They  have  set  up  a  church  government  of  their  own,  and  they  desire  no  other  gov 
ernment  to  rule  over  them. 

It  becomes  necessary  to  know  what  this  Mormonism  is,  that  has  thus  attracted 
these  deluded  people  to  that  country,  to  seize  this  empire  and  to  attempt  'to  estab 
lish  for  themselves  a  government  independent  of  the  world. 

Mormonism,  in  the  view  that  I  take  of  it,  is  a  religious  eccentricity,  as  well  as 
one  of  the  great  monstrosities  of  the  age.  It  is  not  the  first,  however,  of  the  reli 
gious  monstrosities  and  impositions  that  we  have  had.  Other  religious  impositions 
have  been  invented  by  men  expert  in  tricks.  Knowledge  and  civilization  go  mov 
ing  on  at  a  slow  pace,  and  yet  make  gradual  progress ;  and  every  ray  of  light  that 
is  shed  shows  us  the  gross  absurdity  of  these  frauds  in  religion.  The  idols  of 
wood  and  stone  have  fallen  from  the  sacred  places  which  they  formerly  occupied, 
to  be  trampled  under  the  feet  of  their  former  worshipers,  and  the  cunning  devices 
of  a  more  enlightened  age  have  given  way  to  a  purer  creed.  The  majority  of  the 
heathen  practices  of  the  dark  ages  have  disappeared  before  an  enlightened  Chris 
tianity.  But  an  epoch  came  when  mankind  were  fast  relapsing  into  a  painful  state 
of  ignorance ;  and  about  that  time  arose  that  boldest  and  most  successful  of  all  im- 
posters,  Mohammed,  who,  incorporating  old  and  cherished  doctrines  into  a  volup 
tuous  creed,  went  abroad  with  his  sword  in  one  hand  and  the  Koran  in  the  other, 
conquering  and  to  conquer.  This  was  done  when  darkness  reigned  on  the  earth ; 
but  in  this  nineteenth  century,  favored  as  it  is  by  the  light  of  a  true  religion,  dis 
tinguished  as  it  is  by  its  general  knowledge,  and  refined  as  it  is  beyond  all  pre 
cedent  and  parallel,  a  religious  imposture  grosser  than  all  its  predecessors,  is  being 
successfully  palmed  off  on  mankind;  not  in  the  deserts  of  some  unknown  land; 
not  in  a  secret  corner  of  the  earth;  but  in  free  America,  where  every  man  can 
worship  God  according  to  the  dictates  of  his  own  conscience,  and  under  his  own 
vine  and  fig  tree. 

Mormon  Doctrines. — This  grotesque,  absurd,  and  monstrous  system,  thus  openly 
paraded  before  the  world,  is  Mot-monism.  It  is  a  conglomeration  of  illy  cemented 
creeds  from  other  religions.  It  repudiates  the  celibacy  imposed  by  the  Catholic 
religion  upon  its  priesthood,  and  takes  instead  the  voluptuous  imposition  of  the 
Mohammedan  Church.  It  preaches  openly  that  the  more  wives  and  children  its 
men  have  in  this  world,  the  purer,  and  more  influential  and  conspicuous  they  will 
be  in  the  next;  that  his  wives,  his  property,  and  his  children  will  be  restored  to 
him,  and  even  doubled  to  him  at  the  resurrection.  It  adopts  the  use  of  prayers  for 
the  dead  and  baptism  as  parts  of  its  creed.  They  claim  to  be  favored  with  mar 
velous  gifts,  the  power  of  speaking  in  tongues,  of  casting  out  devils,  of  curing  the 
sick  and  healing  the  lame  and  the  halt;  they  also  claim,  to  have  a  living  prophet, 


732 


UTAH    TERRITORY. 


seer,  or  revelator;  they  recognize  the  Bible,  but  they  interpret  it  for  themselves, 
and  hold  that  it  is  subject  to  be  changed  by  new  revelation,  which  they  say  super 
sedes  old  revelation.  One  of  their  doctrines  is  that  of  continued  progression  to 
ultimate  perfection.  They  say  that  God  was  but  a  man  who  went  on  developing 
and  increasing  until  he  reached  his  present  high  capacity;  and  they  teach  that 
good  Mormons  will  be  equal  to  Him — in  a  word,  that  good  Mormons  will  become 

gods.  Their  elders 
teach  the  shedding  of 
blood  for  the  remis 
sion  of  sins;  or,  in 
other  words,  that  if  a 
Mormon  apostatises, 
that  his  throat  shall 
be  cut  and  his  blood 
poured  on  the  ground 
to  save  him  from  his 
sin.  They  also  prac 
tice  other  most  un 
natural  and  revolting 
doctrines,  such  as  are 
only  carried  out  in 
polygamous  countries. 
They  hold  that  the 
prophet's  revelations 
are  binding  on  their 
consciences,  and  that 

A  MORMON  HAREM,  they  must  obey  him 

in   all  things.     They 

claim  to  be  the  people  peculiarly  chosen  of  God,  and  have  christened  themselves 
"  The  Church  of  Jesus — the  Latter  Day  Saints."  They  claim  that  Mormonism  is 
to  go  on  spreading  until  it  overthrows  all  the  nations  of  the  earth ;  and  that,  if  ne 
cessary,  it  shall  be  propagated  by  the  sword ;  and  that,  in  progress  of  time,  all  the 
world  shall  be  subject  to  it.  Jackson  county,  Missouri,  whence  they  were 
driven  for  their  great  crimes,  is  called  their  Zion,  and  their  prophets  have  prophe 
sied  that  there  shall  the  saints  from  throughout  all  the  world  be  assembled,  and 
from  that  Zion  shall  proceed  a  power  that  shall  dethrone  kings,  subvert  dynasties, 
and  subjugate  all  the  nations  of  the  earth. 

Origin. — This  wretched  sect  had  its  origin  in  an  eccentricity  of  a  man  named 
Spaulding,  who  had  failed  as  a  preacher  and  as  a  shopkeeper,  and  who  thought  he 
would  write  an  historical  novel.  He  had  a  smattering  of  Biblical  knowledge,  and 
he  chose  for  his  subject  "the  history  of  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel."  The  wrhole  was 
supposed  to  be  communicated  by  Indians,  and  the  last  of  the  series  was  named 
Mormon,  representing  that  he  had  buried  the  book.  It  was  a  large,  ponderous  vol 
ume,  dull,  tedious  and  interminable,  marked  by  ignorance  and  folly.  Spaulding 
made  many  efforts  to  get  it  printed,  but  the  work  was  so  utterly  flat,  stupid  and 
insipid,  that  no  publisher  would  undertake  to  bring  it  before  the  world.  Poor 
Spaulding  at  length  went  to  his  grave,  and  his  manuscript  remained  a  neglected  roll 
in  the  possession  of  his  widow. 

But  now  arose  Joe  Smith,  more  ready  to  live  by  his  wits  than  by  the  labor  of  his 
hands.  This  Smith  early  in  life  manifested  a  turn  for  pious  frauds.  He  had  been 
engaged  in  several  wrestling  matches  with  the  devil,  and  had  been  conspicuous  for 
his  wonderful  experiences  in  religion  at  certain  revivals.  He  announced  that  he 
had  dug  up  the  book  of  Mormon,  that  taught  the  true  religion,  and  this  was  none 
other  but  the  poor  Spaulding  manuscript,  which  he  had  purloined  from  the  house 
of  the  widow.  In  his  unscrupulous  hands  the  manuscript  of  Spaulding  was  de 
signed  to  cause  an  august  apostacy;  he  made  it  the  basis  of  Mormonism. 

Polygamy  Introduced. — Before  the  death  of  Smith,  he  had  made  polygamy  a 
dogma  of  the  Mormon  creed,  and  made  it  known  to  a  few  of  the  leaders,  and  he 
and  they  proceeded  to  put  it  to  practice.  It  was  only  after  they  had  placed  the 
desert  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  between  them  and  civilization  that  they  confessed 


UTAH    TERRITORY.  1-33 

it.  Then  they  not  only  confessed  it,  but  openly  and  boldly  advocated  it  as  a  part 
of  the  religion  of  Utah.  Polygamy  then  is  now  the  rule,  monogamy  is  the  excep 
tion  to  the  rule  among  them.  This  doctrine  is  preached  from  the  pulpit — it  is 
taught  everywhere. 

Education  and  Habits. — The  little  education  the  children  get  consists  in  pre 
paring  them  for  the  reception  of  polygamy.  To  prepare  the  women  for  the  recep 
tion  of  the  revolting  practice  it  is  necessary  to  brutalize  them  by  destroying  their 
modesty.  The  sentiment  of  love  is  ridiculed,  cavalier  gallantry  and  attentions  are 
laughed  at,  the  emblematic  devices  of  lovers  and  the  winning  kindness  that  with 
us  they  dote  on  are  hooted  at  in  Utah.  The  lesson  they  are  taught,  and  that  is  in 
culcated  above  all  others,  is  "increase  and  multiply,"  in  order  that  Zion  may  be 
filled.  The  young  people  are  familiarized  to  indecent  exposures  of  all  kinds  ;  the 
Mormons  call  their  wives  their  cattle. 

A  man  is  not  considered  a  good  Mormon  that  does  not  uphold  polygamy  by  pre 
cept  and  example,  and  he  is  a  suspected  Mormon  that  does  not  practice  it.  The 
higher  the  man  is  in  the  church  the  more  wives  he  has.  Brigham  Young  and 
Heber  Kimball  are  supposed  to  have  each  between  fifty  and  a  hundred.  The  rev 
erend  Mormon  bishops,  apostles,  and  the  presidents  of  states  have  as  many  as  they 
desire,  and  it  is  a  common  thing  to  see  these  hoary-headed  old  Turks  surrounded 
by  a  troop  of  robust  young  wives.  The  common  people  take  as  many  as  they  can 
support,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  a  house  of  two  rooms  inhabited  by  a'man, 
his  half-dozen  of  wives,  and  a  proportionate  number  of  children,  like  rabbits  in  a 
warren,  and  resembling  very  much  the  happy  family  that  we  read  of— the  prairie 
dog,  the  owl,  and  the  rabbit.  Incest  is  common.  Sometimes  the  same  man  has  a 
daughter  and  her  mother  for  wives  at  once;  some  have  as  wives  their  own  nieces, 
and  Aaron  Johnson,  of  Springville,  one  of  the  most  influential  men  in  his  parts, 
has  in  his  harem  of  twelve  women  no  less  than  five  of  his  brothers'  daughters. 
One  Watts,  a  Scotchman,  who  is  one  of  the  church  reporters,  is  married  to  his 
own  half-sister. 

The  ill-assorted  children — the  offspring  of  one  father  and  many  mothers — run 
about  like  so  many  wild  animals.  The  first  thing  they  do,  after  learning  vulgarity, 
is  to  wear  a  leather  belt  with  a  butcher-knife  stuck  in  it ;  and  the  next  is  to  steal 
from  the  Gentiles ;  then  to  ride  animals ;  and  as  soon  as  they  can,  "  by  hook  or  by 
crook,"  get  a  horse,  a  pair  of  jingling  Mexican  spurs  and  a  revolver,  they  are  then 
Mormon  cavaliers,  and  are  fit  to  steal,  rob,  and  murder  emigrants.  The  women 
and  girls  are  coarse,  masculine  and  uneducated,  and  are  mostly  drafted  from  the 
lowest  stages  of  society.  It  is  but  seldom  you  meet  handsome  or  attractive  women 
among  them. 

The  foreign  element  largely  predominates  in  Utah.  The  persons  emigrating  to 
the  territory  are  generally  from  the  mining,  manufacturing  and  rural  districts  of 
England.  The  American  portion  of  the  Mormons  are  generally  shrewder  than  the 
rest,  and  are  chiefly  from  the  New  England  states.  Most  of  these  men  are  no 
doubt  fugitives  from  justice,  and  most  of  them  are  bankrupt  in  both  fortune  and 
character. 

The  three  presidents  of  the  church,  or  rather  the  president,  Brigham  Young, 
j,nd  his  two  council,  Kimball  and  Grant,  are  all  Americans;  eleven  of  the  twelve 
apostles  are  Americans.  The  foreigners  are  generally  hewers  of  wood  and  the 
drawers  of  water  for  the  church  and  its  dignitaries.  The  church  is  everything. 
It  is  not  only  an  ecclesiastical  institution,  but  it  is  a  political  engine;  it  not  only 
claims  to  control  Mormons  in  their  spiritual  matters,  but  to  dictate  to  them  as  to 
the  disposition  of  their  temporal  affairs.  The  church,  by  its  charter,  can  receive, 
hold  or  sell  any  amount  of  property ;  the  charter  provides  for  one  trustee,  and 
twelve  assistant  trustees,  and  Brigham  Young  is  trustee,  president  of  the  church, 
prophet,  seer,  revelator,  and,  the  commission  of  the  United  States  to  the  contrary 
notwithstanding,  he  is  the  real  governor  of  the  territory.  All  Mormons  are  re 
quired  to  yield  to  him  implicit  obedience. 

Each  Mormon  has  to  pay  into  the  church  one  tenth  part  of  all  he  produces,  so 
that  if  a  good  Mormon  sow  bears  ten  pigs,  one  is  a  pious  pig,  because  it  belongs 
to  the  church.  To  collect  these  tithes  officers  have  to  be  appointed,  and  to  gather 
the  results  together  a  great  central  depot  has  to  be  maintained,  and  it  is  situated 


734  UTAH   TERRITORY. 

in  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  within  Brigham's  own  walls  ;  and  the  corn,  butter,  eggs, 
and  all  sorts  of  produce  that  is  conveyed  there  and  stored  would  spoil  unless  it  WHS 
disposed  of;  and  so  we  find  tha.t  they  need  stores,  and  in  Salt  Lake  City  we  find 
an  enormous  store,  with  the  sign  "  Deseret  Store."  So  it  is,  the  church  is  a  trader. 

The  Angelic  Host. — Connected  with  the  Mormon  church  is  a  band  of  men  known 
as  "the  Danites,"  or  "the  avenging  angels."  This  band  is  composed  of  the  bold 
est  of  the  Mormon  ruffians.  They  are  bound  together  by  dreadful  oaths ;  they  are 
the  executioners  of  the  church,  carrying  out  its  vengeance  against  apostates  and 
offenders  against  the  church  discipline;  and  all  church  enemies  are  dealt  with  by 
these  men,  generally  in  a  secret  and  terrible  manner.  None  but  God,  Brigham 
Young  and  themselves  know  the  names  of  their  victims,  or  the  number. 

Missions  and  Missionaries. — The  Mormon  Church  is  recruited  by  means  of  mis 
sionaries  yearly  sent  out  in  large  numbers  throughout  the  earth,  to  preach  and 
propagate  the  Mormon  religion.  These  missionaries  are  not  selected,  as  are  the 
missionaries  of  other  sects,  for  their  piety  and  devotion,  or  for  their  general  fitness, 
but  as  a  punishment  for  some  offense  against  the  discipline  of  the  church.  The 
doctrine  is  that  they  are  good  enough  to  go  into  the  world,  for  if  they  send  good 
men  they  will  not  believe  them,  and  on  that  account  they  send  their  bad  men  off 
as  teachers  and  missionaries. 

The  missionaries  are  usually  supported  by  voluntary  contributions  raised  from 
the  ignorant  proselytes  that  they  make.  They  picture  Utah  as  a  paradise,  the  Mor 
mons  as  saints,  and  Brigham  Young  as  their  prophet;  they  promise  their  prophet 
will  heal  the  sick,  restore  sight  to  the  blind,  and  comfort  to  the  afflicted ;  to  the 
wealthy  they  promise  wealth,  and  preferment  is  for  the  ambitious,  while  social 
standing  is  to  be  given  to  the  degraded  of  both  sexes,  and  polygamy  is  the  paradise 
of  all. 

Receiving  Proselytes. — These  missionaries,  when  sent  on  missions,  if  successful, 
are  commanded  to  "bring  their  proselytes  with  them  to  Zion.  They  are  generally 
taken  in  large  trains,  and  the  arrival  of  one  of  these  emigrant  trains  is  hailed  as  a 
great  event.  Women  that  are  young  and  pretty  are  greedily  caught  up  by  the 
apostles  and  dignitaries  to  swell  their  harems. 

The  Foreign  Element. — As  I  have  said,  the  Mormons  are  chiefly  foreigners ;  and 
rude,  ignorant  foreigners  they  are.  They  have  not  the  first  conceptions  of  their 
duties  to  our  government,  or  of  their  duties  as  American  citizens.  They  come  to 
Zion,  but  they  do  not  come  to  America.  What  do  they  care  for  our  government 
or  for  our  people  ?  The  first  lesson  taught  them  is  to  hate  our  people  for  their 
oppression,  and  to  hate  all  other  people  for  they  are  Gentiles.  They  are  next  sworn 
to  support  the  church  and  the  government  established  in  Utah,  and  bear  an  eter 
nal  hostility  against  every  other  government  on  the  face  of  the  earth.1  Their  next 
lesson  is  to  revere  Brigham  Young  as  both  the  religious  and  political  head  and 
ruler.  Their  allegiance  is  alone  due  to  him ;  he  tells  them  they  are  separate  an(* 
distinct  from  all  other  nations — made  up  from  many  nations;  and  he  said  but  tht> 
other  day,  "we  have  been  looked  upon  as  a  nation  by  our  neighbors,  independent 
of  all  other  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  in  their  dealings  they  have  dealt 
with  us  as  such."  He  telte  them  the  present  connection  of  Utah  with  the  United 
States  is  only  nominal,  and  it  is  barely  permitted  by  God  until  things  shall  be  fitted 
for  the  universal  establishment  of  Mormon  ascendency. 

'  All  these  things  considered,  is  it  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  Mormons  are  dis 
loyal  to  this  government,  and  that  treason  should  insolently  rear  its  crest  in  Utah  ? 
The  ignorant  of  the  Mormons  do  not  know  what  treason  is.  They  obey  their 
leaders,  and  these  leaders  are  alone  responsible  for  their  acts.  If  Brigham  Young, 
his  counselors  and  bishops,  and  twelve  apostles,  and  his  generals  had  been  seized 
and  hung,  you  would  never  more  have  heard  of  treason  in  Utah;  but  while  the  Mor 
mon  captains  were  at  the  head  of  their  troops,  while  the  Danites  were  armed  with 
their  butcher  knives,  and  while  the  prophet  hurled  anathemas  against  the  presi 
dent,  the  government,  and  the  people  of  the  United  States,  and  while  the  Mormon 
people  were  in  arms  against  the  people  of  the  United  States,  came  a  free  pardon 
to  all  the  traitors,  big  and  little. 

Three  thousand  of  the  federal  troops  were  sent  [in  1858]  to  Utah,  and  they  have 
been  kept  there  at  a  great  expense  to  the  government.  The  government  has  not 


UTAH   TERRITORY.  735 

only  refrained  from  punishing,  but  it  has,  through  the  vast  amounts  expended  for 
the  troops,  which  went  into  the  Mormon  coffers,  enriched  and  built  up  the  terri 
tory.  When  the  troops  went  to  Utah,  the  Mormons  were  naked  and  almost  starv 
ing,  poor  and  wrangling;  but  now  they  are  clothed,  and  money  circulates  freely 
among  them.  Treason  is  lucky,  and  traitors  prosper.  Not  only  are  they  freely 
pardoned,  but  they  are  rewarded  with  pockets  full  of  gold.  When  treason  is  thus 
dealt  with,  traitors  will  he  numerous  indeed. 

An  Irrepressible  Conflict. — Attempts  to  administer  the  laws  of  the  United  States 
have  been  made  by  the  three  sets  of  the  United  States  judges.  These  experiments 
have  all  proved  to  be  failures.  The  concurrent  testimony  of  all  the  judges  is  that 
the  Federal  constitution  and  laws  can  not  be  successfully  administered.  There  is 
a  complete  repugnance  and  antagonism  between  our  institutions  and  the  Mormon 
institutions.  The  church,  through  its  rulers,  claims  to  supervise  the  spiritual  and 
temporal  relations  of  the  people.  Whether  it  be  in  the  place  of  business,  in  the 
jury-box,  on  the  witness  stand,  on  the  judge's  bench,  or  in  the  legislative  chair, 
the  Mormon  is  bound  to  obey  the  heads  of  the  church.  If  the  constitution  of  the 
United  States,  or  the  organic  law  of  the  territory  conflicts,  the  constitution  is 
treated  as  a  nullity;  if  the  laws  of  the  United  States  contravene  the  ordinances 
of  Utah,  the  law  is  disregarded.  The  will  of  the  prophet  is  the  supreme  law  in 
Utah. 

Mormon  grand  and  petit  juries,  on  being  impanneled,  would  go  through  the 
forms  of  business,  but  do  nothing,  while  murder  and  other  felonies  abounded. 
When  warrants  are  issued  for  the  parties  accused,  they  can  not  be  arrested,  for  the 
entire  church  and  the  whole  community  united  in  concealing  and  protecting  the 
offender.  Witnesses  are  prevented  by  church  orders  from  appearing  before  the 
grand  jury,  or  are  forcibly  detained.  Grand  juries  refuse  to  find  bills  upon  testi 
mony  the  most  conclusive,  for  most  of  the  crimes  have  been  committed  by  the 
order  of  the  church  ;  and  to  expose  them  would  be  to  expose  and  punish  the  church 
and  the  functionaries  of  the  church. 

The  most  noted  of  all  the  atrocities  committed  by  the  Mormons  was  the 
'•'•Mountain  Meadow  Massacre."  This  event  occurred  in  the  autumn  of  1857, 
when  about  140  emigrants,  inoffensive,  peaceful  men,  women  and  children, 
on  their  way  overland  from  Arkansas  to  California,  were  waylaid  by  the 
Danite  band  of  Mormons  and  their  Indian  allies,  and  butchered  in  cold  blood. 
Some  of  the  little  children  were  spared,  and  afterward  recovered  from  the 
Mormons;  and  from  their  lips  these  particulars  were  gathered.  A  corres 
pondent  of  Harpers'  Weekly,  for  August  13,  1859,  presents  this  narrative, 
which  is  substantially  true,  and  otherwise  indubitably  corroborated: 

"A  train  of  Arkansas  emigrants,  with  some  few  Missourians,  said  to  number 
forty  men,  with  their  families,  were  on  their  way  to  California,  through  the  Terri 
tory  of  Utah,  and  had  reached  a  series  of  grassy  valleys,  by  the  Mormons  called 
the  Mountain  Meadows,  where  they  remained  several  days  recruiting  their  animals. 
On  the  night  of  Sept.  9,  not  suspecting  any  danger,  as  usual  they  quietly  retired 
to  rest,  little  dreaming  of  the  dreadful  fate  awaiting  and  soon  to  overtake  them. 
On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  as,  with  their  wives  and  familes,  they  stood  around 
their  camp-fires  passing  the  congratulations  of  the  morning,  they  were  suddenly 
tired  upon  from  an  ambush,  and  at  the  first  discharge  fifteen  of  the  best  men  are 
said  to'have  fallen  dead  or  mortally  wounded.  To  seek  the  shelter  of  their  corral 
was  but  the  work  of  a  moment,  but  there  they  found  but  limited  protection. 

The  encampment,  which  consisted  of  a  number  of  tents  and  a  corral  of  forty 
wagons  and  ambulances,  lay  on  the  west  bank  of,  and  eight  or  ten  yards  distant 
from,  a  large  spring  in  a  deep  ravine,  running  southward;  another  ravine,  also, 
branching  from  this,  and  facing  the  camp  on  the  south-west;  overlooking  them  on 
the  north-west,  and  within  rifle-shot,  rises  a  large  mound  commanding  the  corral, 
upon  which  parapets  of  stone,  with  loop-holes,  have  been  built.  Yet  another  ra 
vine,  larger  and  deeper,  faces  them  on  the  east,  which  could  be  entered  without 
exposure  from  the  south  and  far  end.  Having  crept  into  these  shelters  in  the  dark 
ness  of  the  night,  the  cowardly  assailants  fired  upon  their  unsuspecting  victims, 


736  UTAH  TERRITORY. 

thus  making  a  beginning  to  the  most  brutal  butchery  ever  perpetrated  upon  this 
continent. 

Surrounded  by  superior  numbers,  and  by  an  unseen  foe,  we  are  told  tho  little 
party  stood  a  siege  within  the  corral  of  five  or  seven  days,  sinking  their  wagon 
wheels  in  the  ground,  and  during  the  darkness  of  night  digging  trenches,  within 
which  to  shelter  their  wives  and  children.  A  large  spring  of  cool  water  bubbled 
up  from  the  sand  a  few  yards  from  them,  but  deep  down  in  the  ravine,  and  so  well 
protected  that  certain  death  marked  the  trail  of  all  who  dared  approach  it.  The 
wounded  were  dying  of  thirst ;  the  burning  brow  and  parched  lip  marked  the  de 
lirium  of  fever;  they  tossed  from  side  to  side  with  anguish;  the  sweet  sound  of 
the  water,  as  it  murmured  along  its  pebbly  bed,  served  but  to  highten  their  keen 
est  suffering.  But  what  was  this  to  the  pang  of  leaving  to  a  cruel  fate  their  helpless 
children  !  Some  of  the  little  ones,  who  though  too  young  to  remember  in  after 
years,  tell  us  that  they  stood  by  their  parents,  and  pulled  the  arrows  from  their 
bleeding  wounds. 

Long  had  the  brave  band  held  together;  but  the  cries  of  the  wounded  sufferers 
must  prevail.  For  the  first  time,  they  are  (by  four  Mormons)  offered  their  lives  if 
they  will  lay  down  their  arms,  and  gladly  they  avail  themselves  of  the  proffered 
mercy.  Within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  corral  faith  is  broken.  Disarmed  and 
helpless,  they  are  fallen  upon  and  massacred  in  cold  blood.  The  savages,  who  had 
been  driven  to  the  hills,  are  again  called  down  to  what  was  denominated  the  'job,' 
which  more  than  savage  brutality  had  begun. 

Women  and  children  are  now  all  that  remain.  Upon  these,  some  of  whom  had 
been  violated  by  the  Mormon  leaders,  the  savage  expends  his  hoarded  vengeance. 
By  a  Mormon  who  has  now  escaped  the  threats  of  the  Church  we  are  told  that  the 
helpless  children  clung  around  the  knees  of  the  savages,  offering  themselves  as 
slaves;  but  with  fiendish  laughter  at  their  cruel  tortures,  knives  were  thrust  into 
their  bodies,  the  scalp  torn  from  their  heads,  and  their  throats  cut  from  ear  to  ear." 

Beside  Salt  Lake  City,  the  other  principal  Mormon  settlements  are  Fill- 
more  City,  the  capital,  Brownsville,  Provo,  Ogden,  Manti,  and  Parovan. 


COLORADO  TERRITORY. 


COLORADO  was  formed  into  a  territory  February  18,  1861.  Colorado 
derives  its  name  from  the  Colorado  River,  and  its  population  from  the  dis 
covery  of  gold  in  the  vicinity  of  Pike's  Peak.  Its  area  is  104,500  square 
miles.  Estimated  population,  late  in  1864,  32,000.  Capital,  Denver. 

A  great  part  of  this  territory  lies  upon  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  their  foot 
hills  and  adjacent  plains.  Within  it  the  Arkansas  and  Platte  Rivers  have 
their  sources,  and  running  easterly  empty  into  the  Mississippi;  Green  River 
and  other  affluents  of  the  great  Colorado  of  the  West  here  also  take  their 
rise,  and  flowing  westerly  discharge  their  waters  into  the  Pacific.  Its  mineral 
deposits  are  half  way  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific,  and  about  1,000 
miles  from  each,  and  in  the  same  latitude  with  the  rich  mineral  regions  of 
Carson  Valley.  Within  it  are  the  three  beautiful  vales  of  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains,  known  respectively  as  Middle,  South  and  North  Parks,  while  the  noted 
Pike's  Peak  rises  up  grandly  10,600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plains,  and 
18,600,  or  more  than  three  and  a  half  miles  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This 
mountain  received  its  name  from  its  discoverer,  Capt.  Z.  M.  Pike,  while  at 
the  head  of  an  exploring  expedition  sent  out  in  1806,  in  Jefferson's  admin 
istration,  to  ascertain  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas.  He  ascended  to  the 
summit,  and  was  the  first  white  man  to  gaze  upon  the  magnificent  panorama 
seen  from  that  point.  A  visitor  of  our  time  thus  relates  his  experience 
there : 

"  The  summit  is  of  an  irregular,  oblong  shape,  nearly  level,  embracing  about 
sixty  acres,  and  composed  entirely  of  angular  slabs  and  blocks  of  coarse  disinteg 
rating  granite.  The  fresh  snow  was  two  or  three  inches  deep  in  the  interstices 
among  the  rocks,  but  had  nearly  all  melted  from  their  surfaces. 

The  day  was  clear,  and  the  view  indescribably  grand  and  impressive.  To  the 
eastward  for  a  hundred  miles,  our  eyes  wandered  over  the  dim,  dreary  prairies, 
spotted  by  the  dark  shadows  of  the  clouds  and  the  deeper  green  of  the  pineries, 
intersected  by  the  faint  gray  lines  of  the  roads,  and  emerald  threads  of  timber, 
which  mark  the  meandering  of  the  streams,  and  banded  on  the  far  horizon  with  a 
girdle  of  gold.  At  our  feet,  below  the  now  insignificant  mountains  up  which  we 
had  toiled  so  wearily,  was  Colorado  City,  to  the  naked  eye  a  confused  city  of  Lilli- 
puts,  but  through  the  glasses  exhibiting  its  buildings  in  perfect  distinctness,  and 
beside  one  of  them  our  own  carriage  with  a  man  standing  near  it. 

47 


738 


COLORADO   TERRITORY. 


Further  south  swept  the  green  timbers  of  the  Fontaine  qui  Bouille,  the  Arkan 
sas  and  the  Huerfano,  and  then  rose  the  blue  Spanish  peaks  of  New  Mexico,  a 
hundred  miles  away.  Eight  or  ten  miles  from  our  stand-point,  two  little  gems  of 
lakes,  nestled  among  the  rugged  mountains,  revealing  even  the  shadows  of  the 
rocks  and  pines  in  their  transparent  waters.  Far  beyond,  a  group  of  tiny  lakelets 
glittered  and  sparkled  in  their  dark  surroundings  like  a  cluster  of  stars. 


View  in  Denver. 

Cherry  Creek  is  seen  in  front,  Platte  River  in  the  middle  distance,  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  the  back 
ground,  and  on  the  extreme  left,  at  the  distance  of  seventy  miles,  appears  the  snow-clad  summit  of  I'iko's 
Peak. 

To  the  west,  the  South  Park,  40  miles  in  length,  the  Bayou  Salado,  and  other 
amphitheaters  of  rich  floral  beauty — gardens  of  nature  amid  the  utter  desolation 
of  the  mountains — were  spread  thousands  of  feet  below  us;  and  beyond,  peak  after 
peak,  until  the  pure  white  wall  of  the  Snowy  Range  merged  into  the  infinite  blue 
of  the  sky.  Toward  the  north-east  we  could  trace  the  timbers  of  the  Platte,  for 
more  than  seventy  miles ;  but  though  the  junction  of  Cherry  creek,  even  to  the 
unassisted  eye,  showed  the  exact  location  of  Denver,  our  glasses  did  not  enable  us 
to  detect  the  buildings. 

These  of  course  were  only  the  more  prominent  features  of  the  landscape.  To 
the  north,  south  and  west  the  intervening  expanse  was  one  vast  wilderness  of 
mountains  of  diverse  forms  and  mingling  colors,  with  clouds  of  fleecy  white  sail 
ing  airily  among  their  scarred  and  wrinkled  summits.  By  walking  a  few  hundred 
yards,  from  one  slight  elevation  to  another,  we  looked  upon  four  territories  of  the 
Union — Kansas,  Nebraska,  Utah  and  New  Mexico.  Almost  from  the  same  stand 
point  we  viewed  regions  watered  by  four  of  the  great  rivers  of  the  continent — the 
Platte,  Arkansas,  Rio  Grande,  and  Colorado — tributaries  respectively  of  the  Mis 
souri,  the  Mississippi,  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Gulf  of  California. 

A  gorge  upon  the  north  side  is  still  more  gigantic  than  that  on  the  south-east. 
A  colossal  plowshare  seems  to  have  been  driven  fiercely  down  from  the  summit 
almost  to  the  base,  leaving  a  gaping  furrow,  visible  even  from  Denver  [seventy 
miles]  and  deep  enough  in  itself  to  bury  a  mountain  of  considerable  pretensions." 

Like  mineral  regions  generally,  this  is  deficient  in  agricultural  resources , 
it  may  in  time  produce  sufficient  to  support  a  considerable  mining  popula 
tion.  It  is,  however,  more  probable  that  it  will  become  an  important  market 


COLORADO    TERRITORY.  739 

for  the  rich  agricultural  districts  of  eastern  Kansas  and  Nebraska.  "  The 
soil  east  of  the  foot  of  the  mountains  is  mostly  arid  and  sandy,  and  as  very 
little  rain  falls  during  the  summer,  is  not  adapted  to  farming  purposes.  Even 
the  valleys  of  the  streams  appear  unproductive  ;  pulverize  a  handful  of  the 
soil,  and  it  proves  to  consist  almost  entirely  of  sand.  But  it  is  precisely 

identical  with  the  soil 
of  the  valleys  in  New 
Mexico;  and  like  them, 
with  irrigation,  it  will 
produce  abundantly  all 
the  small  grains  and 
vegetables.  The  val 
leys  in  the  gold  region 
will  produce  all  the 
great  staples  of  that  lat 
itude,  with  perhaps  the 
exception  of  corn. 


„  DENVER  IN  1859. 

ly  5,000  feet  above  the 
sea;  frosts  are  frequent,  even  during  the  summer,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether 
corn  will  flourish,  unless  it  be  the  small  species  grown  in  Mexico,  or  the 
variety  recently  introduced  in  Oregon,  in  which  each  kernal  is  encased  in  a 
separate  husk.  The  climate  of  the  great  plains  and  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
country  is  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  world.  The  air  is  so  dry  and  pure 
that  fresh  meat,  cut  in  summer  in  strips,  and  in  winter  in  quarters,  and  hung 
up  out  of  doors,  will  cure  so  perfectly,  without  salting  or  smoking,  that  it 
may  be  carried  to  any  quarter  of  the  globe.  The  nights,  even  in  summer, 
are  cool  and  often  cold."  The  winters  are  long  and  terribly  severe;  snow 
falls  early  in  the  fall  and  late  in  the  spring.  The  Parks  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  are  mild  in  winter,  affording  abundance  of  food  for  stock,  and 
have  always  been  favorite  winter  haunts  for  the  Indians.  "They  are  com 
paratively  smooth,  fertile  spots  —  the  principal  ones  from  30  to  60  miles  in 
diameter  —  inclosed  on  all  sides  by  high  mountain  walls:  in  the  language  of 
Fremont,  "gems  of  rich  floral  beauty,  shut  up  in  the  stern  recesses  of  the 
mountains." 

The  mountain  districts  are  well  watered.  "The  country  abounds  in  timber,  the 
prevailing  variety  being  pine  —  immense  forests  of  both  the  yellow  and  white  being 
common.  On  the  streams  the  white  cherry  and  timber  common  to  this  latitude 
are  found.  Game  is  exceedingly  abundant  —  the  black-tailed  deer,  red  deer,  elk, 
antelope,  mountain  sheep,  black  bear,  etc.,  being  found  in  all  portions  of  the  coun 
try.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  for  the  Indians,  as  it  affords  them  plenty  of  game  when 
off  their  buffalo  hunts,  and  where  they  get  their  lodge  poles  and  equipments  for 
their  excursions  for  Buffalo  on  the  plains." 

This  country  has  only  of  late  been  a  point  of  attraction  to  emigrants.  The  discov 
ery  of  gold  has  been  the  talisman  to  draw  multitudes  of  the  hardy  and  enterprising 
of  our  countrymen  to  this  Rocky  Mountain  land.  It  had  long  been  believed  by  the 
hunters  and  trappers  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  that  the  existence  of  gold  and  sil 
ver,  near  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas  and  South  Platte,  was  known  to  the  Indians, 
and  though  search  was  made  the  exact  spot  could  never  be  ascertained.  "In  1835, 
a  hunter,  named  Eustace  Carriere,  became  separated  from  his  companions,  and 
wandered  about  for  some  weeks,  during  which  period  he  discovered  some  grains 
of  gold  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  which  he  took  with  him  to  Mexico.  On  his 
arrival  there  he  exhibited  his  specimens,  and  a  company  was  formed,  having  Car 
riere  for  their  guide  to  the  new  El  Dorado.  Unfortunately  for  himself,  Carriere 
was  unable  to  find  the  precise  spot,  and  the  Mexicans,  thinking  that  he  did  not 


740  CfOLORADO   TERRITORY. 

wish  to  disclose  the  secret  to  them,  set  upon  him,  and  having  punished  him  severe 
ly,  left  him  and  returned  to  Mexico.  Nothing  was  then  heard  for  some  time,  but 
in  tne  winter  of  1851  an  old  trapper,  who  had  been  living  among  the  Indians  for 
some  years,  came  to  the  settlements  and  reported  the  existence  of  a  cave,  in  which 
there  was  a  quantity  of  solid  masses  of  gold,  hanging  from  the  roof,  like  stalactites 
or  immense  icicles.  He  urged  the  formation  of  a  company,  and  offered  to  conduct 
men  to  the  spot,  but  the  story  was  too  large,  and  he  could  not  induce  any  one  to 
accompany  him.  He  afterward  left  for  the  Indian  country  by  himself,  and  noth 
ing  has  since  been  heard  of  him. 

In  1850,  a  party  of  California  emigrants  passing  through  this  part,  found  traces 
of  gold,  and  some  of  the  party  wished  to  stay  and  examine  carefully,  but  the  ma 
jority,  who  had  heard  of  the  California  nuggets  being  as  '  large  as  a  brick,'  wished 
to  proceed  on  their  journey.  Capt  John  Beck,  who  was  of  this  party,  on  his  re 
turn  from  California,  took  out  a  party  of  a  hundred  men  to  this  gold  field,  and  from 
that  time  the  presence  of  gold  was  a  recognized  fact.  Party  then  rapidly  suc 
ceeded  party,  every  one  who  returned  from  the  mines  giving  a  highly  colored 
account  of  the  fortunes  to  be  realized  there.  In  May,  1858,  a  party  from  Law 
rence,  Kansas,  was  induced  by  these  favorable  reports  to  proceed  to  the  diggings, 
where  they  found  matters  even  better  than  had  been  represented.  The  result  of 
their  discoveries-  soon  became  known,  and  this  new  El  Dorado  suddenly  became 
the  great  magnet  of  attraction  of  this  continent."  So  great  in  two  years  was  the 
rush  of  emigration  that,  in  1860,  the  census  gave  the  population  of  the  newly 
found  gold  region  at  about  sixty  thousand. 

The  GOLD  REGION  is  known  to  extend  several  hundred  miles  along  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  best  part  of  it  is  supposed  to  be  between  latitudes 
37°  and  42°.  "It  is  the  general  opinion  that  quartz  mining  must  always 
be  the  leading  interest  here;  and  miners  with  only  the  pan  and  rocker  or 
sluice  have  not  as  yet  been  able,  as  they  were  originally  in  California,  to  ob 
tain  $5  or  $10  per  day  wherever  they  might  locate.  Many  old  Californians, 
however,  aver  that  the  quartz  '  prospects '  much  more  richly  here  than  it  ever 
has  in  the  golden  state."  As  early  as  October,  1860,  75  quartz  mills  were 
in  operation  in  the  mountains,  and  100  more  being  put  up,  which,  upon  the 
ground  and  in  running  order,  cost  in  the  aggregate  nearly  two  millions  of 
dollars.  The  estimated  yield  of  gold  for  the  year  was  five  millions  in  value. 
Some  rich  silver  lodes  had  then  been  discovered;  but  the  development  of 
this  industry  must  be  slow,  from  the  great  expense  of  erecting  proper  reduc 
tion  works,  and  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  the  practical  skill  to  amalgamate 
the  mineral. 

Denver,  Auraria  and  Highland  were  established  by  three  different  compa 
nies,  but  they  are  substantially  one  city,  and  the  metropolis  of  the  gold  re 
gion.  They  are  seventy  miles  north  of  Pike's  Peak,  at  the  confluence  of 
Cherry  Creek  and  the  South  Platte  River ;  and  distant,  by  air  lines,  from  St. 
Louis,  800,  Santa  Fe,  300,  San  Francisco,  1,000,  and  Salt  Lake,  400  miles. 

Denver  and  Auraria  were  the  first  founded.  The  first  house  built  on  the  site  of  Denver 
was  erected  on  Oct.  29,  1858,  by  Geu.  Wm.  Larimer  and  party,  who  had  just  arrived  from 
Leavenworth.  It  was  a  rude  log  cabin,  only  six  feet  high,  with  a  roof  of  sods.  Highland 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Platte.  The  three  places,  in  general  terms, 
are  now  called  Denver,  which,  in  the  fall  of  1860,  two  years  after  the  first  house  was 
erected,  contained  three  daily  newspapers,  two  churches,  a  theater,  several  fine  brick  blocks, 
two  bridges  across  the  Platte,  excellent  roads  leading  from  it  to  the  principal  diggings, 
and  5,000  inhabitants. 

Colorado  City,  80  miles  south  of  Denver,  was  founded  in  1859  at  the  foot 
of  Pike's  Peak,  and  had,  in  1860,  1,500  inhabitants.  Golden  City,  15  miles 
west  of  Denver,  in  1860,  had  a  population  of  1,200.  St.  Vrain  is  on  the  Platte, 
40  miles  north  of  Denver,  and  on  the  site  of  the  old  trading  post  of  Col 
Csran  St.  Vrain,  frequently  alluded  to  in  Fremont's  expeditions. 


COLORADO  TERRITORY.  74] 

Hall,  in  his  "  Emigrants'  and  Settlers'  Guide,"  gives  this  description  of 
the  climate  and  productions  of  Colorado.  He  is  also  full  and  enthusiastic 
upon  its  mineral  wealth.  He  describes,  somewhat  in  detail,  the  mode  prac 
ticed  in  gold  mining  and  the  various  processes  for  extracting  the  ore.  We 
copy  his  article  below,  almost  entire. 

"  The  Climate. — The  climate  of  Colorado  varies  with  its  hight,  both  as  to 
temperature  and  the  amount  of  rain  and  snow.  The  climate  of  that  por 
tion  lying  at  the  base  and  east  of  the  mountains  is  not  only  delightful  but 
remarkably  healthy.  The  frosts  come  generally  early  in  the  autumn,  and 
continue  far  into  the  spring  months,  but  they  are  not  severe.  On  the  plains, 
the  snows  of  winter  are  never  sufficient  to  prevent  cattle  of  all  kinds  from 
thriving  and  fattening  on  the  nutritious  grass,  dried  up  and  thus  cured  by 
nature  in  July  and  August. 

Throughout  the  winter  months,  with  rare  exceptions,  the  sun  blazes  down 
with  an  almost  tropic  glow,  little  or  no  snow  falls,  and  although  the  nights 
are  sometimes  sharp  and  frosty,  there  is  no  steady  intensity  of  cold. 

With  such  a  climate  Colorado  could  not  well  be  otherwise  than  healthy. 
The  sanitary  condition  of  the  territory  is  good,  and  the  number  of  deaths, 
considering  the  labor  and  exposure  to  which  the  great  majority  of  its  in 
habitants  are  subjected,  remarkably  small. 

Agricultural  Products. — In  a  country  so  remote  from  the  agricultural  dis 
tricts  of  the  states,  and  where  the  expense  of  transporting  supplies  is  so 
heavy,  the  need  of  home  production  is  necessarily  very  great.  The  rather 
scanty  opportunities  which  Colorado  presents  as  a  field  for  agriculture  have 
been,  however,  improved  to  the  utmost.  An  extensive  system  of  irrigation 
has  been  introduced,  which,  it  is  thought,  will  relieve  the  settlers  from  lack 
of  rain  and  other  difficulties  which  have  hitherto  limited  agricultural  pro 
gress. 

As  regards  the  production  of  grain,  the  crops  on  the  various  branches  of 
the  South  Platte,  Arkansas,  Fontain  que  Bruille,  afford  encouraging  pros 
pects. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  territory  considerable  attention  has  been  paid 
to  the  raising  of  wheat,  corn,  barley,  and  other  cereals  ;  but  the  continuance 
of  dry  weather  presents  a  formidable  obstacle  to  great  success  in  this  di 
rection. 

The  bottom  lands  of  the  Platte  River  and  other  mountain  streams  have  a 
rich  alluvial  deposit,  which  only  requires  water  at  long  intervals  to  promote 
an  astonishing  vegetable  growth.  All  the  succulent  varieties  of  plants,  such 
as  potatoes,  cabbages,  onions,  squashes,  etc.,  attain  an  enormous  size,  re 
taining  the  tenderness,  juiciness,  and  sweetness  which  almost  everywhere 
else  belong  only  to  the  smaller  varieties.  The  wild  fruits  of  the  territory 
are  also  numerous  and  abundant.  It  is  believed  that  Colorado  will,  in  a  few 
years,  be  able  to  supply  her  own  home  demand  for  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Stock  Raising  etc. — As  a  grazing  and  stock-raising  region  Colorado  pos 
sesses  great  advantages.  Near  the  base  of  the  rocky  ranges,  and  along  the 
valleys  of  the  streams  which  have  their  origin  in  the  mountains,  vegetation 
is  prolific.  The  grasses  are  not  only  abundant,  but  they  contain  more  nutri 
ment  than  the  cultivated  species  of  the  most  prosperous  agricultural  dis 
tricts  of  the  Mississippi  valley.  These  grasses  cure  standing,  and  cattle 
have  been  known  to  feed  and  thrive  upon  them  throughout  the  entire  win 
ter  months. 


COLORADO  TERRITORY. 

Minerals — Mining,  etc. — As  a  gold-mining  country,  Colorado  is  second 
only  to  California.  The  Colorado  gold  mines  differ  from  those  of  California 
in  this  particular,  viz.:  that  in  the  former  the  precious  ore  is  generally  found 
in  extensive  "  lodes  "  of  quartz  and  pyrites,  while  in  the  latter,  placer  or 
gulch  mining  are  the  most  extensive  and  the  most  profitable.  We  do  not 
mean  to  be  understood  by  this  that  there  are  no  placer  mines  in  Colorado. 
Numerous  gulches  and  ravines  have  been  extensively  worked  in  different 
parts  of  the  territory,  and  in  some  instances  the  yield  has  been  astonishingly 
rich  and  abundant;  but,  up  to  the  present  time,  the  extent  of  the  discov 
eries  of  gulch,  bar,  or  river  deposits  has  not  seemed  to  establish  a  claim 
for  Colorado  as  a  great  placer  mining  region. 

That  the  inexperienced  may  more  clearly  understand  the  difference  be 
tween  "  placer  "  and  "  lode  "  mining,  the  following  brief  explanation  is 
appended  : 

"  Placer  "  and  "Lode  "  Mining. — Where  deposits  of  gold  are  found  in 
gulches,  on  bars,  or  in  river  beds,  mixed  only  with  the  sands  and  alluvial 
washings  of  the  mountains  or  hillsides,  and  requiring  only  the  action  of 
water,  by  sluicing  or  hydraulics,  to  separate  them  from  the  earthy  mixture, 
the  term  "  placer  "  is  applied  to  this  mode  of  mining.  On  the  other  hand, 
where  gold  deposits  are  found  mixed  with  quartz  rock,  pyrites  of  iron  and 
copper  or  other  metals,  and  occupying  veins  between  walls  of  solid  granite, 
they  are  called  u  lode  "  mines.  The  latter  can  only  be  worked  profitably  by 
the  aid  of  capital  and  powerful  machinery ;  but  experience  has  confirmed 
the  belief  that  this  kind  of  mining  is  more  permanent  and  quite  as  profita 
ble  as  "  placer  "  mining.  The  mines  of  Colorado  are  of  this  class,  and  the 
leading  enterprises  of  the  population  are  specially  directed  to  the  improve 
ment  and  development  of  these  veins  or  crevices. 

Mining  Machinery  used  in  Colorado. — The  success  of  any  mining  region 
is  dependent,  primarily,  upon  manual  labor;  liberal  capital  and  powerful 
machinery  are  important  accessories,  however,  and  in  Colorado  they  are 
essential  ones. 

The  machinery  generally  in  use  there  for  obtaining  gold  from  the 
quartz  or  ore  is  of  very  simple  construction,  consisting  chiefly  of  an  engine 
(or  wheel,  if  water-power  is  used,)  and  a  set  of  stamps  for  crushing  the  ore. 
It  is  the  opinion  of  all  practical  miners  in  Colorado,  with  only  one  or  two 
exceptions,  that  the  engines  now  in  use  there  are  by  no  means  large  enough 
for  the  required  use.  The  largest  of  them  measures  14-inch  cylinder,  and 
24-inch  stroke,  running  24  revolutions  per  minute,  and  carrying  about  50 
pounds  of  steam.  In  Colorado  this  engine  is  estimated  at  80-horse  power. 
All  other  engine's  are  likewise  overrated,  and  to  do  the  work  required  of 
them  they  are  run  at  high  speed.  Most  of  the  engines  and  stamping  ma 
chinery  have,  thus  far,  been  made  in  St.  Louis  and  Chicago.  The  principal 
water-wheel  used  is  the  over-shot,  although  there  are  some  under-shot  and 
breast-wheels. 

Mining  Claims. — In  Colorado  liberal  laws  are  in  force,  which  give  to  the 
fortunate  discoverer  of  a  quartz  vein  200  local  feet  of  the  same,  and  to  all 
others  who  apply  in  season  100  feet  not  already  claimed.  These  claims  are 
recorded  in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  district,  and  by  this  process  the  rights 
of  the  parties  are  secured  and  respected. 

Having  made  your  claim  and  had  it  recorded,  the  next  thing  for  the 
miner  to  do  is  to  see  to 


COLORADO  TERRITORY. 

Sinking  a  Shaft. — This  is  sometimes  attended  with  great  labor,  and  not  a 
little  expense.  The  cost  of  sinking  a  shaft,  four  feet  wide  and  twelve  feet 
long,  through  the  "  cap  "  is  estimated  to  be  about  $25  per  running  foot,  if 
the  shaft  is  from  60  to  100  feet  deep  :  $30  per  foot  if  it  is  from  100  to  160 
feet  deep,  and  so  on  in  proportion,  the  expense  increasing  with  the  depth, 
and  consequent  difficulty  of  drawing  the  rubbish  to  the  surface. 

Much,  of  course,  depends  upon  the  hardness  of  the  rock  through  which 
the  shaft  is  sunk.  In  some  cases  a  large  proportion,  or  the  whole  of  the 
expenses  of  the  shaft  is  defrayed  by  the  gold  found  during  the  progress  of 
the  work.  Indeed,  some  mines  have  been  sunk  to  a  great  depth  without 
encountering  the  "  cap  "  at  all. 

Method  of  Raising  the  Ore. — The  quartz  mills  are,  with  but  a  single  ex 
ception,  some  distance  from  the  shafts  or  mines.  The  hoisting  is  performed 
by  an  ordinary  "  whim,"  worked  sometimes  by  a  horse  or  mule,  and  some 
times  by  a  five  or  six  horse-power  engine ;  a  ten  or  fifteen  horse  engine 
would  be  better  when  the  shafts  are  worked  to  great  depths. 

Process  of  Extracting  the  Ore, — The  usual  mode  of  extracting  the  gold 
may  be  simply  described  as  follows  :  The  ore  is  crushed  to  powder  by  heavy 
stamps,  which  fall  down  with  great  force  ;  then  the  powder  is  mixed  with 
water,  run  over  metallic  plates,  having  slight  ridges  on  their  surface,  and 
smeared  with  quicksilver  :  thus  part  of  the  gold  is  retained. 

Two  new  processes  of  separating  the  ore,  which  are  now  in  extensive 
operation,  may  be  thus  briefly  described : 

The  Freiberg  Pan,  so  called  from  the  name  of  the  place  where  it  was  in 
vented,  Freiberg,  Germany — is  a  wooden  tub  of  perhaps  eight  feet  in  diam 
eter,  and  three  feet  high,  with  a  false  bottom  of  iron,  upon  which  move  in 
a  circle  four  mullers  of  stone  or  iron,  attached  to  the  arms  of  a  central  up 
right  shaft.  This  shaft  propels  the  inullers  by  the  power  of  steam.  In 
this  pan  or  tub  are  deposited,  from  time  to  time,  quantities  of  pulverized 
quartz,  with  the  gold  dust  intermingled.  Water  is  let  in,  to  the  depth  of 
ten  or  twelve  inches,  and  a  stream  of  it  allowed  to  run  constantly.  This 
water  escapes  at  an  orifice  made  at  the  proper  hight,  and  carries  with  it  all 
floating  dust.  The  water  is  warmed  by  steam  and  kept  at  a  uniform  tem 
perature.  The  motion  of  the  mullers  destroys  the  chemical  affinities  of 
the  several  substances,  and  allows  the  quicksilver  to  take  it.  This  pan.is 
coming  into  use  in  several  mills.  A  large  mill  will  soon  be  built  in  Nevada 
to  make  use  of  this  process. 

The  Bertola  Pan,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  Spaniard  who  invented 
it,  is  more  extensively  used,  and  promises  better  for  all  kinds  of  ores.  It  is 
about  half  the  size  of  the  Freiberg  pan,  and  entirely  of  iron.  The  dust  is 
operated  upon  in  the  same  way  in  both  pans — water,  and  stone  mullers  be 
ing  used.  The  chemicals,  however,  in  the  Bertola  method,  are  deposited 
with  the  dust,  while  in  the  Freiberg  they  are  not.  What  chemicals  are 
used  is  still  a  secret,  carefully  guarded  by  those  who  make  use  of  the  pro 
cess.  Many  large  mills  are  adopting  it  with  great  confidence.  Messrs. 
Cook  &  Kimball  have  thirty  pairs  of  pans  in  operatien  in  their  large  mill, 
Central  City.  They  are  also  about  to  erect  an  immense  mill  for  a  new  com 
pany  in  New  York,  on  Clear  Creek,  for  the  purpose  of  operating  one  hund 
red  and  fifty  pair  of  pans.  The  friends  of  this  process  are  very  confident 
of  its  entire  success. 

The  above-named  methods  of  operating  upon  the  ore  are  designed  to 


744  COLORADO  TERRITORY. 

overcome  chemical  affinities,  difficulties  which  can  not  be  obviated  by  the 
common  process.  All  kinds  of  chemicals  are  found  in  the  ore,  and  some  of 
them  are  great  neutralizes  of  the  power  of  quicksilver.  Owing  to  these, 
in  some  ores,  not  more  than  a  fourth  part  of  the  gold  is  saved  in  the  com 
mon  process.  Sulphur  is  found  in  abundance,  and  it  is  a  great  hindrance 
to  mining. 

The  Keith  Process. — Dr.  Keith  has  undertaken  to  master  this  difficulty  by 
first  pulverizing  and  then  burning  the  dust — the  sulphur  affording  the  com 
bustible  agent.  It  is  done  in  a  furnace  with  an  escape  flue  to  create  a 
draft,  which  runs  up  the  mountain  side  several  hundred  feet.  It  further 
consists  of  a  jaw  working  on  a  frame  at  about  25  strokes,  crushing  the  dry 
ore,  which  is  then  conveyed  by  a  tube  or  trough  to  a  close,  narrow  sort  of 
fan-mill,  fitted  inside  with  three  revolving  arms.  The  crushed  ore  is  in 
troduced  into  the  center,  and  the  high  speed  throws  it  out  along  the  arms 
till  it  ig  reduced  to  fine  powder,  when  the  draft  caused  by  the  arms  carries 
it  through  a  three  or  four  inch-flue  into  a  furnace,  heated  to  an  intense 
heat.  The  flue  then  expanding  to  a  width  of  three  or  four  feet  and  one 
foot  in  hight,  takes  a  slanting  direction  down,  about  10  feet,  at  an  angle  of 
45  degrees,  all  the  time  heated  by  fire  underneath.  The  sulphur  is  sepa 
rated  from  the  ore  in  this  flue,  and  at  the  bottom  it  is  sent  through  an 
opening  in  the  roof  of  the  flue ;  another  flue  passing  along  the  top  of  the 
first,  and  so  off  into  the  air,  while  the  desulphurized  ore  falls  into  a  pit, 
where  it  cools,  and  is  taken  out  and  submitted  to  the  action  of  quicksilver. 
This  "  process  "  is  said  to  be  satisfactory. 

Appearance  of  the  Ore. — "  All  is  not  gold  that  glitters.''  The  gold  ore 
is  usually  of  a  light  gray  color.  Many  particles  of  it  shine  brightly  in  the 
sun,  and  form  handsome  specimens  to  carry  away,  but  these  are  not  the  pre 
cious  metal.  That  which  glitters  is  not  gold,  but  chiefly  pyrites  of  iron. 

Productiveness  of  the  Ore.-^-The  Hon.  John  Evans,  governor  of  Colorado, 
states  that  the  ore  in  most  of  the  lodes  now  worked  pay  at  least  $36  per 
tun,  while  in  some  instances  the  same  quantity  yields  $150,  $200,  and  even  as 
high  as  $500,  treated  by  the  stamping  process  alone.  This  ore  yields,  upon 
analysis,  from  three  to  six  times  as  much  gold  as  can  be  saved  by  the  or 
dinary  methods  now  in  use,  giving  results  which  to  the  inexperienced  miner 
appear  almost  fabulous ;  but  of  course  no  practical  conclusions  can  be 
drawn  from  merely  chemical  analyses  inapplicable  upon  a  large  scale.  The 
practical  proof  is  in  the  actual  yield  and  profit  to  the  miner. 

The  cost  of  each  tun  of  quartz  may  be  fairly  stated  at  $12,  and  the 
yield  at  $36,  thus  affording  a  profit  at  the  rate  of  200  per  cent,  and  that, 
too,  in  a  manufacture  or  business  where  the  returns  are  unusually  quick  and 
active — the  various  operations  of  mining  and  crushing  the  ore,  extracting 
and  selling  the  gold  being  easily  performed  within  a  week. 

Total  Product  of  Gold. — It  is  a  difficult  matter  to  give,  in  figures,  the 
amount  of  the  gold  product  of  Colorado  since  the  commencement  of  mi 
ning  operations,  in  1858.  No  sufficient  data  exist  for  the  computation  of 
the  whole  yield  of  the  territory.  But  an  approximate  estimate,  based  upon 
various  records,  can  be  made,  which  affords  a  gratifying  exhibit,  and  from 
which  fair  deductions  for  the  future  may  be  made. 

The  reports  of  the  receipts  at  the  Philadelphia  United  States  mint  show 
the  following  figures : 


COLORADO  TERRITORY.         .  745 


1859 $  4,000 

1860 600,000 

1861 1,000,000 


1862 $6,000,000 

1863  (estimated) 13,500,000 

1864  (estimated) 20,000,009 


The  above  statement  falls  short  of  the  aggregate  yield  of  the  territory. 
Much  was  sent  to  other  places  than  Philadelphia,  and  through  other  chan 
nels  ;  much,  too,  remained  in  the  hands  of  miners.  There  is  every  reason 
to  believe  that  the  gold  product  of  1864  will  not  fall  short  of  twenty  mil- 
lions  of  dollars. 

Other  Mineral  Products. — The  territory  is  said  to  abound  in  metals  of 
various  kinds,  but  the  sacra  fames  (  "  sacred  hunger  "  )  for  gold  at  present 
absorbs  all  the  attention  of  the  miners. 

Iron  ore,  of  a  good  quality,  is  found  in  some  parts  of  the  territory,  not 
far  from  Denver,  and  in  close  proximity  to  coal.  Silver  and  lead,  in  small 
quantities,  have  also  been  discovered.  Platinum,  zinc,  manganese,  mag 
netic  iron,  sand,  alum,  salt,  and  petroleum  are  also  among  the  mineral  pro 
ducts  of  the  country." 

Hand  Mills  and  Hand  Mortars,  for  the  purpose  of  crushing  the  quartz 
gold,  first  came  into  use  in  the  gold  regions  in  the  beginning  of  1865. 
Whatever  invention  or  process  will  assist  individual  labor,  in  contradis 
tinction  to  that  of  associated  capital,  is  the  most  important  in  the  devel 
opment  of  a  country.  A  newspaper,  published  at  Austin,  in  Nevada,  at  the 
beginning  of  1865,  thus  speaks  of  the  beneficial  influence  of  their  intro 
duction  : 

Some  few  of  our  citizens  have  censured  us  severely  for  advocating  and  recom 
mending  the  use  of  horse  and  hand-mills,  and,  hand-mortars,  for  the  purpose  of 
crushing  ore,  and  some  went  even  so  far  as  to  say  that  we  were  encouraging  petit 
larceny,  as  many  of  the  persons  who  were  engaged  in  the  business  did  not  have 
claims,  or  sufficient  means  to  purchase  the  rock.  But  it  does  not  follow,  that  to 
make  a  hand-mill  pay,  a  person  must  "  jayhawk  "  the  rock.  There  are  hundreds 
of  claims  in  this  city  and  vicinity  that  have  been  abandoned,  not  because  they 
were  not  rich,  but  simply  because  the  owners  did  not  have  means  necessary  to 
work  them.  From  these  claims  an  abundance  of  ore  can  be  obtained  to  run  all 
the  hand-mills  that  will  be  started  here  for  ages.  Three  months  since  there  was 
not  a  horse  or  hand-mill  in  the  city,  and  but  few  hand-mortars  used.  Now  there 
are  over  thirty  of  the  former  in  successful  operation,  the  latter  having  gone  al 
most  entirely  out  of  use.  From  Mr.  Salmon,  the  inventor  of  the  new  amalgama 
tor,  we  learn  some  interesting  facts.  He  is  engaged  in  amalgamating  exclusively 
for  the  horse  and  hand-mills,  and  does  it  with  one  of  his  tubs  by  hand-power. 
He  takes  out  over  $500  per  week,  but  finds  it  impossible  to  do  all  the  work  that  is 
offered  him.  The  bullion  will  run  over  900  fine.  Four  gentlemen,  for  whom  it 
has  been  working,  took  out  sufficient  after  night,  in  hand-mortars,  to  keep  them  in 
provisions  and  develop  their  claim,  and  they  are  now  having  a  large  lot  worked  at 
one  of  the  steam-mills.  Another,  who  was  on  the  eve  of  leaving  here  in  despair, 
went  to  work  with  a  hand-mill,  and  has  taken  out  enough  to  send  for  his  family  to 
Wisconsin,  besides  having  sufficient  means  to  last  him  the  ensuing  winter.  Mr. 
Salmon  knows  of  many  good  and  experienced  miners  who  would  have  left  the 
country,  but  who,  by  these  miniature  inventions,  have  been  enabled  to  "  stick  it 
out,"  work  on  their  claims,  and  help  to  develop  our  wonderful  and  most  remark 
able  mines.  There  is  at  least  $2000  per  week  of  bullion  taken  out  by  these 
mills,  and  it  is  constantly  increasing.  They  keep  many  men  employed,  assist  in 
developing  a  number  of  mines,  and  put  many  dollars  of  our  buried  wealth  into 
circulation ;  besides,  it  makes  all  engaged  in  the  business  thorough  and  experi 
enced  mill-men. 


IDAHO  TEEKITORY. 

IDAHO  is  an  Indian  word,  signifying  "  Gem  of  the  mountains"  It  was 
formed  in  March,  1863,  from  the  territories  of  Washington,  Nebraska  and 
Dakotah.  Its  area  then  was  326,000  square  miles ;  that  is,  seven  times  that 
of  New  York  State.  In  1864,  it  was  reduced  to  about  90,000  square  miles, 
on  the  creation  of  the  territory  of  Montana.  Its  capital  is  Lewiston,  near 
the  Washington  line  on  Lewis  fork  of  Columbia  Biver. 

Its  great  attraction  was  its  gold  mines,  the  most  important  of  which  ware 
lost  to  her  when  Montana  was  created. 

The  present  gold  mines  of  Idaho  are  in  the  northern  part,  on  branches 
of  the  Columbia,  Salmon  and  Clearwater  Rivers. 

"  The  Salmon  River  mines  were  the  first  to  attract  the  gold-hunter.  The 
gold  obtained  here  is  of  rather  an  inferior  quality,  being  worth  only  $13  to 
$15  an  ounce.  Florence  City  is  the  largest  settlement  in  the  Salmon  River 
country,  and  the  general  depot  for  supplies. 

"  South  of  Salmon  River  is  a  large  extent  of  country  as  yet  wholly  un 
explored.  On  Clearwater  River  and  its  branches  north  of  Salmon  River, 
gold  is  found  over  a  large  extent  of  country,  Elk  City  and  Oro  Fino  being 
the  principal  centers  of  business  and  population." 


MONTANA  TEBRITOKY. 

MONTANA*  was  originally  a  part  of  Idaho,  and  was  formed  in  1864.  It 
is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  territories,  comprising  an  estimated  area  of 
140,000  square  miles.  It  lies  south  of  the  British  possessions,  from  the 
27th  to  the  34th  degrees  of  longitude.  The  Rocky  Mountains  and  their 
foot  hills  occupy  the  western  and  central  parts.  Within  it  are  the  head 
waters  of  the  Columbia  River,  of  Oregon,  and  those  of  the  main  Missouri, 
and  its  great  branch  the  Yellow  Stone. 

Until  the  first  year  of  the  rebellion,  Montana  was  a  trackless  wilderness. 
Before  the  close  of  the  war,  the  rapidity  and  extent  of  mineral  discoveries 
attracted  the  attention  of  miners  and  capitalists,  and  in  defiance  of  obstacles 
of  travel  and  climate,  they  forced  their  way  into  this  new  and  distant  land. 

It  is  favored  with  a  healthy  climate,  and  quite  as  mild  as  that  of  many 
of  the  Northern  and  Eastern  States.  Particularly  is  the  climate  moderate 
on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  mountains. 

At  Fort  Benton,  on  the  Missouri  River,  a  trading  post  of  the  American 
Fur  Company,  which  has  an  elevation  of  2632  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  their  horses  and  cattle,  of  which  they  have  a  large  number,  are  never 
housed  or  fed  in  winter,  but  get  their  living  without  difficulty. 

The  fall  of  the  temperature  as  winter  approaches,  appears  to  be  much 
more  abrupt  east  of  the  mountains,  in  this  latitude,  than  at  the  west  or  in 
the  vicinity  of  Great  Lakes. 

In  the  Deer  Lodge  Prairie,  in  the  valley  of  the  Deer  Lodge  River,  just 
west  of  the  mountains,  are  very  fine  farming  lands.  Beautiful  prairie 
openings  occur  at  frequent  intervals,  in  the  valleys  both  of  the  Hell  Grate 
and  Bitter  Root  Rivers.  At  the  settlement  called  Hell  Gate,  situated  at 
the  junction  of  the  river  by  that  name,  and  the  Bitter  Root,  are  several 
farms  which  yield  all  the  cereals  and  vegetables  in  great  abundance,  bring 
ing  prices  that  would  astonish  farmers  in  the  States,  as  parties  are  con 
stantly  passing  through  that  region  on  their  way  to  the  mines,  and  glad  to 
purchase  supplies. 

Several  years  since,  Gov.  Stevens  of  Washington  Territory,  said  in  an 
official  report: 

"  I  estimate  that  in  the  valleys  on  the  western  slopes  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  extending  no  further  than  the  Bitter  Root  range  of  moun 
tains,  there  may  be  some  6000  square  miles  of  arable  land,  upon  grassed 
lands  with  good  soils,  and  already  prepared  for  occupation  and  settlement; 
and  that  in  addition  to  this  amount,  there  are  valleys  having  good  soils,  and 
favorable  for  settlement,  which  will  be  cleared  in  the  removal  of  lumber 

*  The  description  given  of  this  Territory,  is  abridged  from  "  Hall's  Emigrants,  Settlers 
and  Travelers'  Guide  and  Hand  Book  to  California,  Nevada,  Oregon  and  the  Territories; 
accompanied  by  a  map  showing  the  roads  to  the  Gold  Fields,  with  tables  of  distances." 
It  is  an  invaluable  little  pamphlet  for  the  emigrant.  It  is  mailed  from  the  New  York 
Tribune  office,  on  receipt  of  the  price — 25  cents. 


750  MONTANA   TERRITORY. 

from  them.  The  faint  attempts  made  by  the  Indians  at  cultivating  the 
soil,  have  been  attended  with  good  success,  and  fair  returns  might  be  ex 
pected  of  all  such  crops  as  are  adapted  to  the  Northern  States  of  our 
country. 

"  The  numerous  mountain  rivulets  tributary  to  the  Bitter  Root  River, 
that  run  through  the  valley,  afford  excellent  and  abundant  mill-seats;  and 
the  land  bordering  these  is  fertile  and  productive^  and  has  been  proved  be 
yond  a  cavil  or  doubt  to  be  well  suited  to  every  branch  of  agriculture." 

In  these  valleys  much  grain  is  already  grown,  and  along  the  Bitter  Root 
several  flouring  mills  may  be  found.     Produce  brings  a  good  price  and  the  • 
increasing  demand  for  breadstuffs  at  Bannock  City  and  other  mining  towns, 
will  insure  a  more  vigorous  effort  on  the  part  of  the  husbandman. 

The  cattle  in  the  Deer  Lodge  Valley  run  at  large  in  winter,  and  thrive 
and  fatten  rapidly.  There  is  a  considerable  settlement  in  the  Valley,  and 
stock  raising  is  quickly  becoming  a  lucrative  business,  the  mining  popula 
tion  in  the  vicinity  increasing  rapidly,  and  affording  a  good  market.  The 
pasturage  grounds  of  the  Bitter  Root  Valley  are  unsurpassed.  The  exten 
sive  bands  of  horses  owned  by  the  Flat-Head  Indians  occupying  St.  Mary's 
Village,  on  Bitter  Root  River,  thrive  well  winter  and  summer. 

At  about  the  latitude  of  46°  30',  the  Deer  Lodge  River  and  the  Black- 
foot  form  a  junction  and  are  then  called  the  Hell  Gate,  which  unites  with 
the  Bitter  Root  or  St.  Mary's  River,  in  latitude  47°,  and  assumes  the  name 
of  the  latter. 

Along  the  valleys  of  both  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  there  is  a  great 
abundance  of  excellent  timber — pine,  hemlock,  tamarack,  or  larch  predom 
inating.  The  numerous  mountain  rivulets  tributary  to  the  Bitter  Root 
which  run  through  the  valley,  afford  excellent  and  abundant  mill  seats. 
The  valley  and  mountain  slopes  are  well  timbered  with  an  excellent  growth 
of  pine,  which  is  equal  in  every  respect  to  the  well-known  and  noted  pine 
of  Oregon.  Along  the  Bitter  Root  are  also  several  fine  flouring  mills. 

The  great  attraction  of  this  region  is  its  GOLD  mines.  The  gold  in  Mon 
tana  is  found  as  in  California,  both  in  gulches  and  in  quartz. 

The  Bannock  or  Grasshopper  mines  were  discovered  in  July,  1862,  and 
are  situated  on  Grasshopper  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Jefferson  fork  of  the 
Missouri,  385  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake  City,  and  280  south  of  Fort 
Benton. 

The  mining  district  at  this  point  extends  five  miles  down  the  creek  from 
Bannock  City,  which  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  gulch ;  while  upon 
either  side  of  the  creek  the  mountains  are  intersected  with  gold-bearing 
quartz  lodes,  many  of  which  have  been  found  to  be  very  rich. 

Bannock  City,  the  county  seat  of  Boise  county,  and  the  most  populous 
town  in  the  Territory,  is  thought  to  be  one  of  the  best  mining  localities  in 
this  whole  region.     It  is  situated  between  two  of  the  best  mining  streams 
in  the  territory,  viz. :  More's  and  Elk  Creek,  which  empty  into  the  Boise  - 
Eiver,  forty  miles  south  of  Bannock  City. 

The  Centerville  mines  are  six  miles  west  of  Bannock  City.  They  are 
situated  on  Grimes'  Creek,  and  are  similar  to  those  on  Bannock  City. 

The  Virginia  City  mines,  take  their  name  from  Virginia  City,  the  largest 

town  in  Eastern  Montana.     They  are  on  Fairweather's  Gulch,  upon  Alder 

Creek,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Stinking  Water,  a  small  stream  that 

puts  into  the  Jefferson  Fork,  about  seventy  miles  northeast  of  Bannock. 

"The  mines  here,"  says  a  late  writer,  "are  unsurpassed  in  richness ;  not 


MONTANA  TERRITORY. 

a  claim  has  been  opened  that  does  not  pay  good  wages,  while  many  claims 
yield  the  precious  ore  by  the  pound."  Two  lines  of  coaches  run  between 
this  point  and  Bannock  City. 

The  following  were  the  prices  of  produce  at  Bannock,  at  the  beginning 
of  1865,  in  gold: 

Flour,  $25  per  cwt.;  Bacon,  30c.  per  lb.;  Ham,  90c.;  Fresh  Steaks,  15 
to  25c.;  Potatoes,  per  lb.,  25c.;  Cabbage,  per  lb.,  60c.;  Coffee,  80c.;  Sugar, 
60c.;  Fresh  Butter,  $1.25;  Hay,  lOc.  per  lb.,  or  $30  per  tun;  Lumber, 
$150  per  thousand.  Wages  ruled  at  $5  per  day,  for  miners  and  common 
laborers,  and  $6  to  $8  for  mechanics.  Female  labor  ranged  from  $10  to 
$15  per  week.  Washing  from  $3  to  $6,  by  the  dozen. 

At  these  rates,  it  will  be  seen  that  carrying  on  agriculture  by  irrigation, 
which  the  want  of  rain  compels,  pays  the  producer  well. 


NEBRASKA  TERRITORY. 


NEBRASKA  was  organized  as  a  territory,  with  Kansas,  in  1854,  and  then 
had  the  immense  area  of  336,000  square  miles,  since  contracted  to  76,000. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  gently  rolling  prairie,  and  there  are  numerous 
small  creeks  and  rivers,  along  the  banks  of  which  is  timber. 

The  climate  of  Nebraska  is  favorable,  and  the  atmosphere  pure,  clear,  and  dry. 
The  soil  is  quick  and  lively,  producing  Indian  corn,  wheat,  04 ts,  hepip,  tobacco, 
and  sorghum.  Vegetables  of  all  kinds  thrive  well,  and  it  produces  fine  graces. 

As  a  grazing  country  Nebraska  can  not  be  surpassed,  and  stock  raising  is  ex 
tensively  carried  on.  The  wild  grass  predominates  here  as  in  Utah,  and  cattle, 
horses,  and  mules  fatten  on  it  very  readily.  The  bottom  lands  abound  with 
rushes,  and  stock  are  often  kept  out  the  whole  winter  through,  and  are  found  to 
fatten  without  fodder. 

Nebraska  being  an  agricultural  and  stock-raising  country,  and  also  the  great 
starting-point  and  highway  for  travel  over  the  plains,  her  lands  are  sought  after 
by  immigrants.  In  the  neighborhood  of  good  settlements  the  settler  has  the 
advantages  of  churches  and  schools  already  established.  As  a  general  rule, 
farms  can  be  bought  at  less  than  the  cost  of  improvements,  owing  to  the  constant 
emigration  to  the  adjacent  gold  mines  of  Colorado  and  Montana.  Timber  and 
stone  are  found  in  sufficient  quantities  for  building  purposes.  iStone  coal  has  been 
discovered  in  several  places. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Missouri  and  the  Platte.  The  first  is  navigable  by 
steamboats  for  many  hundred  miles  above  the  northern  point  of  Nebraska.  The 
Platte  enters  the  Missouri  River  near  Omaha  City.  This  river  runs  almost  due 
west,  through  a  fine  valley  extending  four  or  five  hundred  miles  through  the  cen 
ter  of  Nebraska,  and  has  always  been  the  favorite,  as  it  has  been  almost  the  only 
route  to  the  new  states  and  territories  of  Utah,  Colorado,  Nevada,  Idaho,  Montana, 
Washington,  Oregon,  and  California.  The  principal  outfitting  points  are  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Missouri,  and  are  Brownsville,  Nebraska  City,  Plattsmouth,  and 
Omaha.  The  roads  from  these  westward  are  good,  and  all  intersect  at  or  near 
Fort  Kearney. 

The  line  of  emigration  of  the  United  States,  it  is  estimated  now  advances  west 
ward  at  an  annual  rate  of  seventeen  miles.  The  territorial  expansion  of  the  pop 
ulation  absorbs  annually  17,000  square  miles,  for  when  population  exceeds 
eight  persons  to  a  square  mile  it  emigrates.  Within  the  last  thirty  years,  the 
United  States  have  added,  on  the  west,  eleven  new  states,  with  an  aggregate  area 
of  934,462  square  miles,  and  three  millions  of  people.  With  the  natural,  increase 
of  inhabitants,  consumption  of  territory  for  colonization,  if  it  existed,  would 
increase  in  a  far  greater  ratio.  But  it  does  not  exist.  The  western  limit  of  agri 
cultural  land  in  the  United  States  is  already  reached.  Mr.  J.  A.  Wheelock,  com 
missioner  of  statistics  of  Minnesota,  in  his  annual  report  for  1860,  presents  these 
facts  under  the  heading  of: 

ARABLE    AREAS   OF   THE    UNITED    STATES    EXHAUSTED. 

The  extended  explorations  made  within  the  last  few  years  under  the  auspices  of 
the  United  States  government,  of  the  region  between  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  have  revealed  the  startling  fact  in  the  physics  of  the  United 

48 


^54  NEBRASKA   TERRITORY. 

States,  that  the  westward  progress  of  its  population  has  nearly  reached  the  extreme 
western  limit  of  the  areas  available  for  settlement,  and  that  the  whole  space  west 
of  the  98th  parallel,  embracing  one  half  of  the  entire  surface  of  the  United  States, 
is  an  arid  and  desolate  waste,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  belt  of  rich  lands 
along  the  Pacific  coast  This  momentous  fact,  which  is  destined  in  its  results  to 
revolutionize  the  whole  scheme  of  continental  development,  and  to  give  a  new  di 
rection  to  the  movements  of  trade  and  population,  was  first  announced  as  a  posi 
tive  generalization  by  Professor  Henry,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institute,  in  a  learned 
paper  on  meteorology  in  its  connection  with  agriculture.  From  this  paper  we 
quote:  "  The  general  character  of  the  soil  between  the  Mississippi  River  and  the 
Atlantic,  is  that  of  great  fertility.  The  portion  also  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  as  far  as  the  98th  meridian,  including  the  states  of  Texas,  Louisiana, 
Arkansas,  Missouri,  Iowa,  and  Minnesota,  and  portions  of  the  territortes  of  Kan 
sas  and  Nebraska,  are  fertile,  though  abounding  in  prairies,  and  subject  occasion 
ally  to  droughts.  The  whole  space  to  the  west,  between  the  98th  meridian  and 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  a  barren  waste,  over  which  the  eye  may  roam  to  the  ex 
tent  of  the  visible  horizon,  with  scarcely  an  object  to  break  the  monotony.  From 
the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific,  with  the  exception  of  a  rich,  but  narrow  belt 
along  the  ocean,  the  country  may  also  be  considered,  in  comparison  with  other  por 
tions  of  the  United  States,  a  wilderness  unfitted  for  the  uses  of  the  husbandman ; 
although  in  some  of  the  mountain  valleys,  as  at  Salt  Lake,  by  means  of  irrigation, 
a  precarious  supply  of  food  may  be  obtained." 

It  is  not  necessary  to  quote  the  detailed  description  of  this  American  Sahara. 
The  concluding  words  of  Prof.  Henry,  upon  this  subject,  are  more  to  our  purpose. 
"  We  have  stated  that  the  entire  region  west  of  the  98th  degree  of  west  longitude, 
with  the  exception  of  a  small  portion  of  western  Texas,  and  the  narrow  border 
along  the  Pacific,  is  a  country  of  comparatively  little  value  to  the  agriculturist,* 
and  perhaps  it  will  astonish  the  reader  if  we  direct  his  attention  to  the  fact  that 
this  line,  which  passes  southward  from  Lake  Winnipeg  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  will 
divide  the  whole  surface  of  the  United  States  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  This 
statement,  when  fully  appreciated,  will  serve  to  dissipate  some  of  the  dreams  which 
have  been  considered  as  realities,  as  to  the  destiny  of  the  western  part  of  the 
North  American  continent.  Truth,  however,  transcends  even  the  laudable  feel 
ings  of  pride  of  country,  and  in  order  properly  to  direct  the  policy  of  this  great 
confederacy,  it  is  necessary  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the  theater  in  which  its 
future  history  is  to  be  enacted." 

That  "  rich  but  narrow  belt  of  fertile  lands  upon  the  Pacific,"  has  already  been 
blocked  out  with  the  prosperous  states  of  California  and  Oregon,  with  an  aggregate 
population  of  450,000. 

Upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the  great  American  desert,  Kansas  already  contains 
a  population  sufficient  to  form  a  state.  Eastern  Nebraska  and  Dacotah  are  rapidly 
filling  up.  Here  are,  altogether,  about  160,000  square  miles  to  be  made  into  new 
states,  and  this  is  all  that  remains  of  the  national  domain — all  that  remains  to 
supply  an  imperative  and  permanent  demand  for  new  areas,  which  absorbs  170,955 
square  miles  every  ten  years  in  the  formation  of  new  states. 

In  the  very  fullness  and  strength  of  its  westward  flow,  the  tide  of  immigration 
is  even  now  arrested  upon  the  brink  of  a  sterile  waste,  which  covers  half  the  na 
tional  domain. 

This  event  is  the  turning  point  in  American  history.  It  is  the  beginning  of 
that  cumulative  pressure  of  population  upon  the  means  of  subsistence,  which  ia 


*In  general,  this  vast  tract  may  be  termed  a  waterless,  timberless,  desert-like  country. 
While  the  annual  fall  of  rain  in  the  eastern  states  amounts  to  about  42  inches,  it  is  supposed 
that  in  the  country  from  the  British  line  south  to  Texas,  and  from  the  98th  meridian  to  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  of  California,  the  annual  amount  of  rain  does  not  exceed,  on  an 
average  10  inches  I  We  all  know  of  the  terrible  drought  of  1860  in  Kansas.  The  interior 
part  of  our  continent  will  always  be  more  or  less  subject  to  such  calamities.  An  officer  of 
the  U.  S.  army,  commandant  of  a  post  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Antonio,  states  to  us  that 
in  all  that  part  of  Texas,  there  has  been  no  rain  ofconsequence  within  the  past  five  years  1 
The  garrison  was  unable  to  procure  even  enough  vegetables  for  its  own,  consumption. 


NEBRASKA  TERRITORY  755 

to  test  the  stability  of  our  institutions.  But  aside  from  its  political  effects,  it  will 
have  these  important  results  on  the  material  condition  of  the  country.  1.  It  will 
condense  population  within  its  present  limits,  and  thus  add  to  the  wealth  and  social 
power  of  existing  states.  2.  By  placing  a  positive  limitation  upon  the  supply  of 
western  lands  it  will  largely  enhance  their  value. 

Beyond  the  present  line  of  settlement  in  eastern  Nebraska  and  Kansas  to 
California  and  Oregon,  stock  raising  on  the  immense  prairies,  on  which  now 
roam  countless  herds  of  buffalo,  and  gold  and  silver  mining  in  the  mountains, 
must  be  the  main  supports  of  population.  That  these  industries  may  in  the 
course  of  half  a  century  give  birth  to  many  new  states,  and  occupation  for 
millions  of  inhabitants,  is  not  improbable ;  but  the  food  to  support  them  will 
require  to  be  principally  drawn  from  the  rich  agricultural  country  on  and 
near  the  Mississippi  River.  With  this  condition  in  prospective,  the  ultimate 
value  of  these  lands  will  be  greatly  enhanced. 

The  population  of  Nebraska  is  composed  of  emigrants  from  the  free  states 
of  the  north-west,  and  is  now  confined  to  the  eastern  border,  along  the  banks 
of  the  Missouri.  In  1860,  Nebraska  had  28,893  inhabitants. 

Omaha  City,  the  capital  of  Nebraska,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  wide 
plateau,  the  second  bottom  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  opposite  the  city  of 
Council  Bluffs,  in  Iowa.  It  has  substantial  brick  blocks,  handsome  churches, 
a  costly  court  house,  built  by  the  general  government,  and  about  2,500  in 
habitants.  Nebraska  City,  also  on  the  Missouri,  is  an  important  point,  with 
a  population  of  about  3,000. 

The  other  prominent  places  in  the  territory  are  Bellevue,  Plattesmouth, 
Florence,  Saratoga,  Fontenelle,  Brownsville,  Nemaha  City,  Mt.  Vernon,  St. 
George,  and  Kearney  City. 


DACOTAH  TEKKITOKY. 


DACOTAH,  or  more  correctly  Ddhkotah,  is  the  true  name  of  the  Sioux  na 
tion  of  Indians,  and  "  signifies  allied  or  joined  together  in  friendly  compact." 
The  territory  so  named  comprises  the  western  part  of  the  original  Territory 
of  Minnesota,  and  was  excluded  from  its  limits  when,  in  1858,  Minnesota 
was  erected  into  a  state.  It  was  organized  into  a  territory  in  February, 
1861.  It  extends,  in  extreme  limits,  N.  and  S.  450  miles,  and  E.  and  W. 
200:  N.  latitude,  42°  30'  to  49°;  longitude,  W.  from  Greenwich,  94°  to 
104°.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  British  Possessions,  E.  by  Minnesota 
and  a  small  part  of  Iowa,  on  the  S.  by  Iowa,  and  also  S.  and  partly  on 
the  W.  by  the  Missouri  River,  separating  it  from  the  Territory  of  Nebraska. 

The  eastern  part  is,  like  Minnesota,  covered  with  multitudes  of  small  lakes 
and  ponds.  The  largest  of  these  are  Red  Lake,  about  40  miles  long  and  20 
broad,  and  Mini-wakan,  or  Devil's  Lake,  about  50  miles  long  by  10  broad. 
Lake  Itasca,  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  is  on  its  eastern  boundary.  The 
Minnesota,  emptying  into  the  Mississippi,  the  Big  Sioux  and  Jacques,  afflu 
ents  of  the  Missouri,  and  the  Great  Red  River  of  the  North,  all  take  their 
rise  in  the  high  table  lands  of  the  interior. 

The  territory  contains  numerous  salt  lakes,  and  coal  has  been  found. 
Capt.  Jno.  Pope,  of  the  U.  S.  corps  of  topographical  engineers,  states  that 
"Dacotah  presents  features  differing  but  little  from  the  region  of  prairie  and 
table  land  west  of  the  frontiers  of  Missouri  and  Arkansas,  which  is  mainly 
devoid  of  timber.  From  this  is  to  be  excepted  the  western  half  of  the  val 
ley  of  Red  River  and  the  valleys  of  the  Big  Sioux  and  the  Rio  Jacques,  which 
are  productive,  and  with  the  region  inclosed  contain  arable  and  well  tim 
bered  land  sufficient  for  a  small  state."  These  valleys  are  productive  in 
wheat  of  the  best  qualities.  Population,  in  I860,  4,839. 

Pembina,  the  principal  town  of  the  territory,  is  some  360  miles,  in  an  air 
line,  N.W.  of  St.  Paul,  on  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  just  below  the  British 
line.  It  was  settled,  in  1812,  by  Scottish  emigrants  under  Lord  Selkirk,  who 
obtained  an  extensive  grant  of  land  from  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  On 
the  running  of  the  boundary  line,  subsequently,  Pembina,  the  southernmost 
point  of  the  colony,  was  found  to  be  just  within  the  limits  of  the  United 
States. 

"  The  settlement — which  contains  about  seven  thousand  inhabitants — is 
nourishing,  and  agriculture  is  prosecuted  by  the  hardy  settlers  there  with 
considerable  success.  The  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  are  half  natives 


758  DACOTAH    TERKITOKY. 

and  descendants  of  fur-traders  and  their  servants,  by  native  women.  For 
merly  every  summer,  with  a  team  of  carts  drawn  by  oxen,  and  loaded  with 
pemmican,  furs,  etc.,  they  came  down  to  St.  Pauls  on  a  trading  excursion, 
employing  about  six  weeks  in  making  the  journey.  Their  singularly  con 
structed  carts,  composed  entirely  of  wood,  without  any  tire,  their  peculiar 
dress,  manners  and  complexion,  render  them  an  object  of  curiosity  to  those 
unfamiliar  with  the  various  shades  of  society  intermediate  between  the  sav 
age  and  civilized." 


THE  INDIAN  TEEEITOKY: 


THE  INDIAN  TERRITORY  is  an  extensive  country  lying  west  of  Arkansas 
and  north  of  Texas,  and  extending  far  into  the  western  wilderness ;  and  con 
taining  about  71,000  square  miles.  It  has  been  allotted  by  the  general  gov 
ernment  as  the  permanent  residence  of  those  Indian  tribes  who  emigrate 
from  the  states  east  of  the  Mississippi.  "  It  is  about  450  miles  long  east  and 
west,  and  from  35  to  240  miles  in  width  north  and  south.  Kansas  lies  on 
the  north  of  this  tract,  Arkansas  on  the  east,  Texas  on  the  south,  and  New 
Mexico  and  Texas  on  the  west.  In  the  north-western  portion  of  the  Indian 
Territory  are  the  vast  sandy,  barren  lands,  known  as  the  Great  American 
Desert.  Excepting  this  desolate  region,  the  country  is  occupied  by  undulat 
ing  plains  and  prairies,  broken  on  the  east  by  the  mountain  ridges,  called  the 
Ozark  or  Washita,  which  come  in  from  Arkansas.  Coal  of  an  excellent 
quality  abounds  in  the  eastern  part.  The  great  southern  overland  mail 
route  to  California  passes  through  it. 

The  Choctaws,  the  Chickasaws,  the  Cherokees,  the  Creeks,  the  Senecas,  the 
Seminoles,  and  the  Shawnees  dwell  in  the  east;  while  the  central  and  west 
ern  districts  are  occupied  by  the  Camanches,  the  Osages,  the  Pawnees,  the 
Kioways,  the  Arrapahoes,  and  other  tribes.  The  country  is,  besides,  thickly 
inhabited  by  buffaloes,  wild  horses,  antelopes,  deer,  prairie-dogs,  and  wild 
animals  and  wild  birds  of  many  names.  Kansas  and  Nebraska  were  included 
in  the  Indian  Territory  until  1854." 

The  Indians  within  and  near  the  borders  of  the  territory,  including  the 
uncivilized  tribes,  it  is  supposed,  number  about  90,000.  The  civilized  tribes 
are  the  Cherokees  and  Choctaws,  each  numbering  19,000;  the  Creeks  num 
bering  25,000,  and  the  Chickasaws,  16,000,  all  of  whom  emigrated  from  the 
cotton  states  east  of  the  Mississippi.  These  four  tribes  have  adopted  repub 
lican  forms  of  government,  modeled  after  those  of  our  states,  with  executive, 
legislative  and  judicial  departments.*  Slavery  exists  in  a  mild  form,  and 

*  "  These  four  Indian  states,"  says  the  New  Orleans  Picayune,  "  are  a  strange  anomaly. 
They  are  not  a  part  of  the  Union,  nor  are  they  known  in  law  to  exist.  The  white  man  can 
not  pass  through  their  territory  without  a  permit,  nor  can  he  take  with  him,  when  he  is 
allowed  to  enter  the  Indian  domain,  certain  articles  of  merchandise,  even  though  the  pack 
ages  are  unbroken  and  are  simply  designed  for  the  New  Mexican  market.  This  singular 
state  of  things  can  not  exist  for  many  years,  without  forcing  itself  upon  the  attention  of 
Congress. 

The  tide  of  population  is  steadily  rolling  west.  In  less  than  ten  years  it  will  beat  against 

(1477) 


INDIAN  TERRITORY.  759 

tne  slaves  amount  in  the  aggregate  to  several  thousand.  Polygamy  prevails 
to  some  little  extent.  These  tribes  have  made  no  inconsiderable  advance  in 
the  arts  of  civilization;  beside  living  under  written  law,  they  have  schools 
in  which  English  is  taught,  and  churches,  the  work  of  missionaries:  they 
have  attained  a  knowledge  of  agriculture,  and  of  many  useful  manufactures, 
and  of  late  years  have  exported  cotton,  peltries,  and  other  staples. 

The  Cherokees  are  regarded  as  the  most  civilized  of  these  tribes,  and  it  is 
said  that  many  of  its  principal  men  would  grace  the  refined  society  of  any 
nation.  Among  them  and  the  Choctaws  there  is  so  much  white  blood  min 
gled  that  many  of  the  younger  members,  especially,  would  not  be  suspected 
of  Indian  origin.  None  of  these  people  injure  themselves  by  hard  work, 
but  they  are  "wonderfully  industrious  for  Indians." 

"  Their  principal  wealth  is  vested  in  stock.  Any  amount  of  fine  grazing 
land  is  lying  idle,  and  the  climate  is  so  mild  that  stock  (except  milch  cows 
and  working  cattle)  requires  no  feeding  in  winter.  In  the  spring  the  farmer 
brands  his  calves  and  colts,  and  turns  them  out  upon  the  prairie,  and  there 
his  care  for  them  ends.  All  the  brands  are  officially  recorded,  and  '  mis 
takes  '  in  regard  to  them  seldom  occur,  as  they  have  an  ugly  way  of  punish 
ing  horse  and  cattle  stealing  by  death !  A  year  or  two  after,  when  the  owner 
is  in  want  of  beef,  ponies,  or  oxen  for  farm  labor,  he  sends  out  his  negroes 
to  drive  in  the  desired  animals.  He  would  certainly  be  unreasonable  to 
complain  of  the  expense  of  raising  them."  These  people  seem,  as  a  class, 
"  well  to  do  "  in  the  world.  Their  houses  are  ordinarily  of  logs,  but  spacious 
and  comfortable,  and  will  compare  favorably  with  those  of  south-western 
Missouri  and  Arkansas.  Some  of  them  are  handsome  frame  buildings. 

When  the  temperance  reformation  overspread  the  land  some  years  since, 
these  emigrant  tribes  adopted  measures  for  the  prohibition  of  intemperance, 
with  various  degrees  of  success.  "Among  the  Choctaws  a  law  was  passed 
upon  this  subject,  which  was  measurably  successful;  and  the  spirit  which 
effected  its  passage  was  worthy  of  the  most  exalted  state  of  civilization.  It 
seems  that  the  tribe  had  generally  become  sensible  of  the  pernicious  influ 
ences  of  strong  drink  upon  their  prosperity,  and  had,  in  vain,  attempted 
various  plans  for  its  suppression.  At  last,  a  council  of  the  head  men  of  the 
nation  was  convened,  and  they  passed  a  law  by  acclamation,  that  each  and 
any  individual  who  should,  henceforth,  introduce  ardent  spirits  into  the  na 
tion,  should  be  punished  with  a  hundred  lashes  on  his  bare  back.  The  coun 
cil  adjourned,  but  the  members  soon  began  to  canvass  among  themselves  the 
pernicious  consequences  which  might  result  from  the  protracted  use  of  whisky 
already  in  the  shops,  and,  therefore,  concluded  the  quicker  it  was  drank  up, 
the  more  promptly  the  evil  would  be  over,  so  falling  to,  in  less  than  two 
hours  Bacchus  never  mustered  a  drunker  troop  than  were  these  same  tem 
perance  legislators.  The  consequences  of  their  determination  were  of  last 
ing  importance  to  them." 

Life  and  property  are  as  safe  among  these  Indians  as  in  the  adjoining 

the  barriers  now  thrown  up  against  its  invasion  of  the  retreat  of  those  civilized  aborigines. 
Even  now  the  emigration  must  cross  these  territories.  These  Indian  states  can  not  exist 
when  the  Caucassian  race  presses  upon  them  as  independent  governments.  The  people, 
civilized  and  attached  to  the  soil  they  have  improved,  can  not  be  removed  to  remoter  wilds, 
nor,  without  serious  discontents,  is  it  likely  the  United  States  can  subject  them  to  the  con 
dition  of  other  territorial  organizations,  by  an  abrogation  of  the  constitutions  they  have 
established  for  themselves.  What,  then,  is  to  be  done  with  these  Indian  states  ?  It  can 
not  fail  to  give  greater  interest  to  this  question  that  each  of  these  Indian  states  have 
adopted  the  social  institutions  of  the  south." 


760  INDIAN  TERRITORY. 

states.  A  late  missionary  among  the  Choctaws  states:  "The  laws  are  exe 
cuted  with  a  good  degree  of  promptness.  The  punishments  consist  of  fines, 
whipping,  and  death;  and,  as  there  are  no  prisons  in  which  to  confine 
Culprits,  it  is  a  matter  of  honor  with  accused  persons  to  appear  in  court  and 
answer  to  charges.  If  a  man  is  charged  with  a  crime,  and  fails  to  come  to 
court,  he  is  stigmatized  as  a  coward.  To  the  high-minded  Indian  cowardice 
is  worse  than  death.  It  is  affirmed  that  a  full-blooded  Choctaw  was  never 
known  to  abscond  or  secrete  himself  to  evade  the  sentence  of  the  law.  Even 
when  the  sentence  is  death  he  will  not  flee,  but  will  stand  forth  and  present 
his  breast  to  receive  the  fatal  ball  from  the  rifle  of  the  executioner,  shooting 
being  the  mode  of  capital  punishment. 

A  circumstance  was  related  to  us  which  will  serve  to  illustrate  this  trait 
of  character.  Two  brothers  were  living  together,  one  of  whom  had  been 
charged  with  crime,  convicted,  and  sentenced  to  be  executed.  When  the 
morning  came  on  which  the  sentence  should  be  carried  into  effect,  the  con 
demned  man  manifested  some  reluctance  in  meeting  the  executioner.  The 
brother  was  both  surprised  and  indignant.  'My  brother,'  said  he,  'you  'fraid 
to  die;  you  no  good  Indian;  you  coward;  you  no  plenty  much  brave.  You 
live,  take  care  my  woman  and  child;  I  die;  I  no  'fraid  die;  much  brave!" 
The  exchange  was  accordingly  made;  the  innocent  brother  died  while  the 
guilty  was  permitted  to  live.  This  was  said  to  have  occurred  before  they 
emigrated  west.  In  an  earlier  period  of  their  history  substitutes  were  fre 
quently  accepted,  and  when  the  guilty  was  not  found  any  member  of  his 
family  was  liable  to  be  arrested  and  made  to  suffer  the  penalty  which  should 
have  been  inflicted  upon  the  criminal.  The  law  required  '  an  eye  for  an  eye, 
a  tooth  for  a  tooth,'  blood  for  blood;  but  they  would  not  execute  two  men 
for  the  murder  of  one.  Two  or  more  might  be  implicated,  yet  the  death  of 
one  malefactor  satisfied  the  demands  of  justice.  Before  the  adoption  of  their 
present  coustitution,  the  injured  or  aggrieved  party  was  permitted  to  take  the 
case  into  his  own  hands,  and  to  administer  justice  in  the  most  summary  man 
ner;  but  since  the  organization  of  the  new  government  every  charge  must 
take  the  form  of  a  regular  indictment,  be  carefully  investigated,  and  decided 
in  legal  form." 


APPENDIX. 


CENSUS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 


OFFICIAL    CENSUS    TABLE, 

SHOWING    THE    POPULATION    OP     THE     UNITED    STATES    AND    TERRITORIES,    ACCORDING    TO    THB 

SEVENTH   CENSUS  (1850),  AND  THE   EIGHTH   CENSUS  (1860),  RESPECTIVELY. 


CENSUS    OF    1850. 


States. 

Free. 

Slave. 

Total. 

Alabama,      - 

428,779 

342,844 

771,623 

Arkansas, 

162,797 

47,100 

209,897 

(  '    '  i  r/\i"Tii  n 

92597 

00  £07 

Connecticut, 

370,792 

_. 

«7~j(J  J  4 

370,792 

Delaware, 

89,242 

2,290 

91,532 

Florida,     - 

48,135 

39,310 

87,445 

(ieorijia, 

524,503 

381,682 

906,185 

Illinois, 

851,470 

— 

851,470 

1  ndiana, 

988,416 

— 

988,416 

Iowa, 

192,214 

— 

192,214 

Kansas, 

......        — 

— 



Kentucky, 

771,424 

210,981 

982,405 

Louisiana,    - 

272,953 

244,809 

517,762 

Maine, 

583,169 

— 

583,169 

Maryland,    - 

492,666 

90,368 

583,034 

Massachusetts, 

994,514 

— 

994,514 

Mississippi,  - 

296,648 

309,878 

606,526 

Missouri, 

594,622 

87,422 

682,044 

397  654 

OQIT    (\KA 

Minnesota, 

6,077 



6,077 

New  Hampshire, 

-        -      .-    317,976 

— 

317.976 

New  Jersey, 

489,319 

236 

489,555 

New  York,  - 

3,097,394 

— 

3,097,394 

North  Carolina, 

580,491 

288,548 

869,039 

Ohio,     - 

1,980,329 

— 

1,980,329 

Oregon,     - 

13,294 

— 

13,294 

Pennsylvania, 

2,311,786 

— 

2,311,786 

Rhode  Island,   - 

147,545 

— 

147,545 

South  Carolina,     - 

283,523 

384,984 

668,507 

Tennessee, 

763,258 

239,459 

1,002,717 

Texas,  - 

154,431 

58,161 

212,592 

Virginia,  - 

949,133 

472,528 

1,421,661 

Vermont, 

314,120 

— 

314,120 

Wisconsin, 

305,391 

— 

305,391 

19,866,662      3,200,600   23,067,262 


762 


APPENDIX 


Territories. 

New  Mexico, 

Utah, 

District  of  Columbia, 


Free. 
61,547 

11,354 

48,000 


Slave. 
26 

3,687 


Total. 

61,547 

1 1 ,380 
51,687 


19,987,563      3,204,313    23,191,876 


CENSUS    OF    1860. 


States. 

Free. 

Slave. 

Total. 

Alabama,     ....... 

-    529,164 

435,132 

964,296 

Arkansas,          

324,323 

111,104 

435,427 

California,    ------- 

-    380,015 

— 

380.015 

Connecticut,      -        

460,151 

— 

460,151 

Delaware,     ------- 

-     110,420 

1,798 

112,218 

Florida,     - 

78,686 

61,753 

140.439 

Georgia,        ------- 

-    595,097 

462,230 

1,057,327 

Illinois,     ------- 

-      1,711,753 

— 

1,711,753 

-  1,350479 

. 

1,350,479 

Iowa,         -         - 

674,948 

— 

674,948 

Kansas,         ------- 

-     107,110 

— 

107,110 

Kentucky,         

930,223 

225,490 

1,155,713 

Louisiana,     ------- 

-    376,913 

332,520 

709.433 

Maine,       ------- 

628,276 

— 

628,276 

Maryland,     ------- 

-    599,846 

87,188 

687,034 

Massachusetts,  ------ 

-      1,231,065 

— 

1,231.065 

Mississippi,           .-.-»- 

-    354,699 

436,696 

791,395 

Missouri,  ------- 

-      1,058,352 

114,965 

1,173,317 

Michigan,     

-    749,112 

— 

749.112 

Minnesota,         -         -        -         -         -         - 

162,022 

— 

162,022 

New  Hampshire,          

-    326,072 

— 

326,072 

New  Jersey,      ------ 

672,031 

— 

672,031 

New  York,  -        -        - 

-  3,887,542 

— 

3,887,542 

North  Carolina,                                   • 

661,586 

331,081 

992,667 

Ohio,    

-  2,339,599 

— 

2,339,599 

Oregon,     ------- 

52,466 

— 

52,466 

Pennsylvania,       ------ 

-  2,906,370 

— 

2,906,370 

Rhode  Island,  ------ 

174,631 

— 

174,631 

youth  Carolina,    ------ 

-    301,271 

402,541 

703,812 

Tennessee,        

834,063 

275,784 

1,109,847 

Texas,  -        -        - 

-    420,651 

180,388 

601,039 

Virginia,  ------- 

-     1,105,196 

490,887 

1,596,083 

Vermont,      

-    315,116 

— 

315,116 

Wisconsin,        

775,873 

— 

775,873 

27,185,109 

3,949,557 

31,134,666 

Territories. 

Free. 

Slave. 

Total. 

Colorado,      ------- 

-      34,197 

— 

34197 

Dakotah,  

4,839 

— 

4,839 

Nebraska,     ------- 

-      28,832 

10 

28.842 

Nevada,     -        -        -        .        .        - 

6,857 

— 

6,857 

New  Mexico,        .        -        -        -        T        - 

-      93,517 

24 

93,541 

Utah,        

40,266 

29 

40,295 

Washington,         -....- 

-      11,578 

— 

11,57* 

71  895 

3,181 

75,076 

27,477,000      3,952,801    31,429,891 


APPENDIX. 


763 


The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  members  of  Congress  apportioned  to 
each  State  in  1850  and  in  I860.    In  1860,  the  ratio  of  representation  was  127,216. 


Maine,  - 

New  Hampshire, 
Vermont, 
Massachusetts,  - 
Rhode  Island, 
Connecticut, 
New  York,  - 
New  Jersey, 
Pennsylvania, 
Delaware, 
Maryland,     - 
Virginia,  - 
North  Carolina,    - 
South  Carolina, 
Georgia, 
Florida,     - 
Alabama, 
Total,  - 


1850. 

I860. 

1850.  ] 

L860. 

6 

5 

Mississippi,       ... 

5 

5 

3 

3 

Louisiana,     -        ... 

4 

4 

3 

3 

Arkansas,  -        ... 

2 

3 

11 

10 

Texas,  

2 

4 

2 

1 

Tennessee,        ... 

10 

8 

4 

4 

Kentucky,    - 

10 

8 

33 

30 

Ohio,         .... 

21 

19 

5 

5 

Indiana,        .... 

11 

11 

25 

23 

Illinois,         .... 

9 

13 

1 

1 

Missouri,  .... 

7 

9 

6 

6 

Michigan,     .... 

4 

6 

13 

11 

Wisconsin,        ... 

3 

6 

8 

7 

Iowa,    -        .... 

2 

5 

6 

4 

Minnesota,        ... 

2 

1 

8 

7 

1 

1 

1 

1 

California,         ... 

2 

3 

7 

6 

For  1850,  237.     For  1860,  233. 


The  following  tables  show  the  increase  of  population  in  1860,  in  the  different 
States,  over  the  population  of  1850 : 


FREE  STATES. 


SLAVE  STATES. 


Increase. 


Increase. 


Maine,       ... 
New  Hampshire,  - 
Vermont,  - 
Massachusetts,     - 
Khode  Island,  - 
Connecticut,  - 
New  York,  _      - 
Pennsylvania, 
New  Jersey, 
Ohio,      - 
1  ndiana     - 

-    36,780 
8,096 
-      1,707 
236,980 
-    27,079 
89,098 
-  754,169 
-      604,232 
-  186,479 
-      397,588 
-  362,386 

Delaware, 
Maryland,     - 
Virginia,  - 
North  Carolina, 
South  Carolina, 
Georgia, 
Florida,     - 
Alabama, 
Mississippi, 
Louisiana, 

-    20,821 
-      148,531 
-  171^538 
-      139,303 
-    46,864 
-      176,642 
-    58,249 
-      184,294 
-  280,132 
-      148,669 
-                   230  878 

Illinois,           - 
Michigan, 
Wisconsin,     -        .        . 
Iowa          ... 

-      839,768 

-  356,737 
-      458,094 
-  489,788 

Texas,    -'      - 
Tennessee, 
Kentucky, 

-      438,363 
-  133,973 
-      168,152 
-  519  170 

Minnesota     •        .        « 

166'7f9 

Oregon,     ... 
California,     - 

Total, 

-    39,?272 
-      292,173 

5,347,651 

Total,      - 

-      .-        -    2,820,539 

The  following  tables  show  the  Free  and  the  Slave  population  at  each  decennial 
period  since  the  first  census  was  taken : 

SLAVE    POPULATION   OP  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

1790, 697,897  Increase. 

1800, 893,041  195,144,  or  29  per  cent 

1810, 1,191,364  298,323,  or  33    " 

1820, 1,538,064  347,700,  or  30    " 

1830,  -   -   -   -   -   -   -   -  2,009,031  470,967,  or  30    " 

1840, 2,487,355  478,324,  or  24    " 

1850,-   -   -. 3,204,313  716,958,  or  29    " 

1860, 3999,353  795,040,  or  25  '" 


764 


APPENDIX. 


FREE   POPULATION    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES 

Increase. 

1,180,036,  or  36  per  cent 
1,635,530,  or  37 
2,051,517,  or  33         " 
2,757,822,  or  33        " 
3,718,109,  or  33        « 
5,415,616,  or  37        " 
7,550,680,  or  38 

The  following  table  shows  the  total  population  of  the  United  States  at  each  de 
cennial  period : 


1800, 

4,412,911 

1810,- 

6,048,450 

1820, 

8,100,067 

1830,- 

10,357,880 

1  840, 

14,575,998 

1850,- 

19,991,645 

1860, 

27,642,624 

1790,  - 
1800, 
1810,  - 
1820, 


3,929,827  I  1830,  - 

5,305,925  1840, 

7,239,814  1850,  - 

9,638,131  I  1860, 


-  12,886,020 
17,069,453 

-  23,191,876 
31,429,891 


The  increase  of  the  free  population  of  the  United  States  has  averaged,  at  each 
decade,  for  the  last  half  century,  about  35  per  cent;  the  increase  of  the  slave  popu 
lation  about  27  per  cent.  Estimating  the  increase  of  each  kind  of  population  at 
these  figures  for  the  half  century  to  come,  the  results  at  each  decade  in  round 
numbers,  are  as  follows : 


1870, 
1880, 
1890, 
1900, 
1910, 


Free. 
37,000,000 

50,000,000 

68,000,000 

92,000,000 

123,000,000 


Slave. 
5,000,000 

6,500,000 

8,000,000 

10,000,000 

12,500,000 


Total. 

42,000,0*00 

56,500,000 

76,000,000 

102,000,000 

135,500,000 


